The Route Setting Association

Route Setting Association Level 1 Course Manual

V1.3

Copyright 2016 Unauthorised reproduction is not permitted.

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Introduction This document has been created to help develop Route Setters and refine Good Practice while route-setting. The information in this document relates to Boulder setting (including traverse walls) only and does not explore roped route- setting (these techniques are detailed in the RSA Level 2 Course). This document is NOT intended to be used alone; it must be used in conjunction with a training course with a RSA approved trainer. This document is a working document and the content is constantly evolving, therefore it is important to check regularly on the RSA website for updates.

Remit This training is intended to supply route setters with the personal skills to route set on bouldering and traverse walls; it is not a supervisory qualification.

Upon successful completion of the course (assessment will be throughout the course) candidates will be issued with a certificate of completion; this is valid for three years. To re-validate the Level 1 qualification a RSA approved CPD event must be attended. This event must equal at least one point (one point equals one 8-hour day). Successful attendance of this event serves as re-accreditation of the Level 1 Route Setter qualification for a further three years. Should a Level 1 Setter holder not accrue at least one CPD point during a three-year period, their accreditation will lapse until a point is gained. If the accreditation has lapsed for more than 1 year they must re-certify by attending and passing a full Level 1 course.

Neither the Route Setting Association (RSA) nor your Trainer accepts responsibility for the actions of any route setter; it is their own responsibility to act in a safe and prudent manner. If any route setter feels that they need additional training to work safely, it is their duty to seek it. The RSA strongly advise that if any route setter has questions with any of the techniques in this document or with regard to route setting in general they contact their course trainer or the RSA using the contact details in this document.

This course is not intended to explore the complicated situations which may be encountered during competition setting, Dry Tooling or other situations not specifically identified in this document.

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1. Setter Safety 1.1 Fundamentals of access for Boulder Setting - Ladders Is Boulder setting considered working at height? “Work at height” means: (a) work in any place, including a place at or below ground level (b) obtaining access to or egress from such place while at work, except by a staircase in a permanent workplace, where, if measures required by these Regulations were not taken, a person could fall a distance liable to cause personal injury.

Boulder Setting is working at height. This means that legally there are basic conditions which the HSE require: (1) Every employer shall ensure that work at height is: (a) properly planned (b) appropriately supervised (c) carried out in a manner which is so far as is reasonably practicable safe and that its planning includes the selection of work equipment in accordance with regulation 7. (2) Reference in paragraph (1) to planning of work includes planning for emergencies and rescue. (3) Every employer shall ensure that work at height is carried out only when the weather conditions do not jeopardise the health or safety of persons involved in the work

Every employer shall ensure that no person engages in any activity, including organisation, planning and supervision, in relation to work at height or work equipment for use in such work unless he is competent to do so or, if being trained, is being supervised by a competent person.

In identifying the measures required by this regulation, every employer shall take account of a risk assessment under regulation 3 of the Management Regulations. (2) Every employer shall ensure that work is not carried out at height where it is reasonably practicable to carry out the work safely otherwise than at height.

Planning the activity would include a written risk assessment with a documented procedure for the work, this risk assessment would satisfy the HSE guidance for risk assessments as in: Appendix RSAL1.1 and the “plan” or method statement could also be the company’s operating procedures.

Selection of equipment would include use of appropriate ladders, all work ladders should be compliant to EN 131, in good condition and part of regular and ongoing documented checks and inspections.

HSE resource INDG455 1/14 discussion and practical: • Definitions • Checks • Use

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Variations of use while boulder setting: • Tool belts and lanyards • Bedding ladder into crash mats – keep secure o Be aware of top staying in contact with wall as it settles (e.g. under steep roofs) o Reasons for not attaching top ▪ Duration of work ▪ Safety Flooring under ▪ Bedding makes more stable • No hazards in fall space, holds tools, people (including ladder boards or parts of the ladder) • Step ladders and use under roofs o Locking parts o Side on work o Points of contact

1.2 Manual Handling Route setting requires holds and holds are heavy. When moving holds (and preforming other tasks) route setters must take measures to prevent musculoskeletal disorders (MSDs). This is a legal requirement as set forth in The Manual Handling Operations Regulations 1992. HSE resource INDG383 6/14 discussion and practical: • Definitions • Examples

Route Setting specific: • Where holds are stored and transport to the work area • Working in teams • Using crates / trollies / other • Underfoot surface and hazards ▪ Wash areas ▪ Stairs ▪ Crash mats

1.3 Tools Tools are a critical part of route setting and they must be used properly not just to work efficiently but also for the safety of the setters and the public. Power tools must be evaluated for condition and the manufacturer’s recommendations followed for duration of use and accompanying PPE. Any work with tools must be risk assessed, particularly when in possible contact with liquids, such as when power washing holds.

What tools are used during a set vary depending on the needs of the set and availability; however normal tools and considerations are below: Hand Tools

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▪ Allen key – 6mm / 8mm ▪ Ratchet set (with Allen key adapter – not always required) ▪ Hammer / mallet ▪ Tap (to re-thread t nuts) ▪ Hack saw ▪ Mole Grips (to remove broken screws) Power tools ▪ Impact driver – training and experience required! Noise, vibration, broken holds, damaged t nuts may all be a result from improper use – PPE may be required ▪ Cordless Drivers – (setters elbow / wrist / shoulder can be typical injuries particularly when no clutch is used) ▪ Power washers – proper training, electric shock risk, vaporising of chemicals, noise, high power stream of water are all considerations

1.4 Other Equipment Other equipment can be used to help the setter work more quickly and easily, tool belts, lanyards, gloves may all be useful and it is important to consider the risk of injury both in the short and long term.

1.5 Hazardous Substances When setting it would not be normal to come in contact with hazardous substances, however when washing holds or stripping holds some precautions may necessary. Most climbing chalk in low concentration would not be particularly hazardous (unless lung / breathing / allergic issues are present) but in some climbing walls with poor ventilation a dust mask is recommended if chalk levels are high or a setter will be in regular contact, this should be determined by a risk assessment before work commences. Hold washing with a light acid is common at many centres, it is recommended to use a purpose designed grip wash with a full COSHH sheet. Precautions, usage instructions and required PPE are recommended to be followed as per manufacturer’s instructions (including disposal). Do NOT rinse acid / hold wash with a power washer as this can vaporise the acid and it is possible to breathe it in and / or get in pretty much everywhere.

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2. Holds and Volumes Not surprisingly route setting requires holds, ideally all the holds used will conform to BS/EN 12572-3, however most walls have a mixture of new and older holds and it is not possible to identify which do or do not conform. Regardless, all holds must be of good condition and not damaged (other than minor edge or superficial damage) when used. If a route setter suspects a hold to be a hazard, don’t use it! Volumes are a primary component to modern setting, however many volumes are not made to the relevant standard (either BS/EN 12572 if they do not have hold placements or BS/EN 12572-1/2 if they do) so they must be evaluated with care before use and attached securely. It is not the route setter’s responsibility to ensure the holds or volumes have been manufactured to the relevant standard, only that they were in good condition when attached to the wall and that they were attached properly (in accordance with manufacturer’s instructions). When fixing any hold or volume, consideration must be made to its placement with regard to possible hazards (including if the hold or volume itself could be a hazard – e.g. large protrusion at the bottom of a slab) and that they be as flush as possible to the climbing surface (4mm gaps max – no finger entrapments). NOTE: At time of writing the EN Standards are under review, it is recommended that once ratified the standards are followed. 6 | www.routesettingassociation.org – dedicated to route setters The Route Setting Association

2.1 Hold Attachment Most holds can be attached to the climbing surface via a bolt or screws, it is strongly recommended that the manufacturer’s method of attachment is used and the hold is not modified. (e.g. don’t drill holds out / use bolts in bolt holes not screws) Bolt on Holds: Bolts are normally counter sunk (tapered) or flat (cap) headed 6mm or 8mm Allen key 10mm diameter bolts, fully threaded or shouldered (partially threaded) and vary in length. Different holds require different types of bolts (some will take both countersunk and flat) and it is important to use the correct type of bolt with the correct hold. How long the bolt is required to be depends on the hold fixing depth (the thickness of the hold) and the thickness of the climbing surface. The bolt should, ideally, protrude circa 3-5mm from the back of the t-nut to ensure correct fixing (other styles of placements require various depths of bolt). Bolts with shoulders are to be used with caution as the non-threaded area can damage the t nut if is driven into the threads. • Damaged bolts and t-nuts: Occasionally when attempting to tighten a bolt the threads of the bolt and or t nut may become damaged, it is important not to cross-thread the bolt, this is particularly true when impact drivers are being used as it is difficult to “feel” the threads. If you feel resistance when tightening the bolt or you notice damage to the bolt (threads or head) or t- nut do not force it! If the bolt is in question, throw it away. If the t-nut is in question than it can be re-threaded with a M10 tap (with t handle, not on a drill). Lubrication will help in the re-threading process and regular light lubrication of bolts / t-nuts may help avoid issues (although it is easier to over torque the bolt when using lubrication so care is needed). If a hold bolt becomes stuck (either during attachment or removal) it will need to be removed. Discuss the desired process with the centre manager but normally this may involve cutting the bolt off or breaking the hold, both of these techniques require care and appropriate PPE depending on the process / tools. E.G. eye protection, gloves or other. • Tightening / Torque: Every hold must be tight. How tight depends on many factors including; hold size, attachment surface, provision of secondary fixation point. Most manufacturer’s give guidance on torque values, however this this guidance is normally for attachment to untreated plywood (to meet the criteria for the BS/EN 12572-3) and is not relevant for real world setting. So how tight the hold should be tightened? “Until it is tight enough” is the simple answer, however this in not particularly helpful. A few factors which are pertinent: o Is there a secondary fixation point being used (this will be referred to as a “set screw” or “pin”)? If so the required torque may be less. o What substrate is the hold fixed to? If the substrate has friction the hold will be less likely to spin, wherein is it is a gloss or slick surface (suck as some concrete, paint or render) the torque may need to be higher. • Set Screws: Set screws are recommended to be used, if there is a secondary point of fixation and it is possible (e.g. on GRP / fibreglass

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screws cannot normally be used) this is particularly important when a hold is in a critical positon (such as a finishing hold or used in a sequence involving awkward body positions). Some holds may be pinned even though there is no secondary point of fixation (using a screw on the outside edge of the hold) however this screw should not present a hazard to climbers (e.g. not flush or presenting a sharp edge), the decision to use this method is the route setters and the need should be determined on a case by case basis, evaluating the forces involved, attachment surface and size / shape of the hold.

Screw-on Holds: Screw-on holds are a staple of the creative setter and provide great variety (no need for t-nuts!). Screw on holds should be attached via screws, the type and diameter of screw used should be in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations, but normally this is a 4-5mm x 50mm screw in all provided points. What head type to use is a hot debate, however very few setters use PZ2 (cross) heads as they round out easily and the bits break. T25 (torx) or KTX head screws seem to work very well but it is worth checking with the wall to see what they prefer (the next setter may not appreciate a variety). • Care is required when using screw-ons with an uneven surface as they can be delicate and prone to cracking, always go gently and test the holds to ensure they are not cracked or settle when weighted • Be cautious with regard to what is behind the climbing surface, screws do not like steel and if the screw snaps it can be difficult (or impossible) to remove. • If a screw does snap make sure it is not left as a hazard, if there is enough screw remaining proud a pair of mole grips can usually unwind it, if this does not work, the screw may have to be cut or ground off.

Dual Fixing Holds: Dual fixing holds may be attached with bolts or screws (set screws still recommended for bolt use). They are becoming justifiably more popular as they provide the best of both worlds and come in a variety of sizes. When using the screw in method remember to use all provided points.

Volumes: Volumes are an excellent way to add variety to your set and make plain walls interesting. Most volumes are either constructed from plywood or fiberglass and can be attached by screws or a bolt and screws. It is important to follow the manufacturer’s recommended method of attachment and use all or the provided fixation points. • If a volume is heavy or awkward it may be necessary to have a few setters help to attach or hold it. • Be cautious when placing volumes as they could become a hazard if in the fall area of other problems.

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• Ensure that the volume is in good condition including that the fixation points are not damaged, if the volume is delaminating of has sharp edges do not use it until it has been repaired or replaced. • Make sure the rules are clear on volume use, e.g. is it in for all surrounding problems?

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3. Safety of the Public The safety of the public is critical both during the set and afterwards. Although nothing can eliminate the risks of climbing and people will injure themselves regardless, a good route setter will try to reduce this as much as possible for the given grade. • During the set: o Close down the wall or the section of wall (including other work areas such as holds stores and washing areas) and restrict access. This should include barriers and or signage to identify a hazard area. o Set falls away from possible hazards o Clearly define grades, problems and finishing points o Set ergonomically (relevant to grade) to help to avoid sports injuries o Use the correct holds for the grade (e.g. no mons for easier problems) o Ensure the holds are flush to the climbing surface (4mm gap max) o Avoid creating entrapment features (constricting gaps with sharp edges are bad) o Remove all screws when stripping o Set holds to the height limitation of the wall (the problems can finish lower than the top of the wall, particularly for kids) o Test every problem and hold o Use set screws where needed o Provide descent routes in each area

• After the set: o Clear the work area of all equipment and tools o Complete a walk around looking for possible hazards

4. Documentation of set and record keeping It is recommended to keep basic documentation of all route setting which includes: • Risk assessment • Plan of work (method statement or operating procedures) • Route setting record o Who set what and where with dates

How long you keep records for should be discussed with your insurers.

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5. Setting Basics: Setting preparation: Setting Brief: • How many, how long, how hard and for who • Review feedback and comments and keep an open mind to suggestions Work area preparation • Risk assess the work area and prepare the equipment • Cordons / restrictions to keep public out of hazard area • Signage to give awareness • Tool and PPE • Toolbox talk Stripping of holds: • Clear fall area • Teams • Helmets Hold selection: • Holds for area / angle/ length of wall and grades to be set • Colours / manufacturers /sets Bolts / holds: type (counter sunk / flat / 6mm / 8mm / shoulders / length (3 threads min through back of t-nut) Screws: type / length (3 threads through back of ply/ diameter (4mm - 6mm, 5mm x 50mm most common) Tags: when to use, circuits / special rules / starting finishing

6. Setting for the intended users: All: accessible for the grade, without hazards and making them want more – remember taste is subjective and just because you don’t like something does not mean others agree with you. Commercial setting is about pleasing you customers:

• Good setting: fun, challenging, flowing, technical, memorable, outdoorsy, thoughtful, powerful, balance, scary, lots of variety, cruxy • Bad setting: reachey, painful, thrutchy, outdoorsy, thuggy, scary, dangerous, horrible, shit, akward, samey, laddery, cruxy

Beginners points (up to V1 / FB5 / F5+): • Dos: simple sequences, good feet (for trainers), achievable, flowing, in balance, basic climbing movement, easier finishes, lower finish Easy starts and generous clipping / finishing holds

• Don’ts: reachey, require hand / foot matches, complex sequences, last move cruxes, “dangerous” holds (monos / small crimps)

Intermediate points (v2-v4, FB5+-6b+, F6a-6c+):

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• Starting to smear, more flexibility, introducing forced sequences, more difficult / advanced holds, proportionately smaller clipping / finish holds, more tenuous / exciting positions

• Still be careful / aware of extreme limit moves and hold type

Advanced (v4-v7, FB6c-7a+, F6c+-7b+) • Thin precarious movements, long forced sequences, complicated advanced body positions, gymnastic / dynamic movements, introduce extreme limit moves and hold types

Elite (v7-v11, FB7b-8a, F7c-8c) • Aware of skin limits (slapping for sharp edges), unusual use of holds and volumes

7. Setting Process: 7.1 Creative process: • Blue-print : Good for new setters, or setting at or near max, and for new roped setters Design and set out all holds on the ground working the moves in your mind (or draw out on paper) designing route / problem working in specific moves / sequences • Ripple: Envision a move or sequence and work away from it to the start and finish Easier for bouldering, usually works best with a specific move, sequence, or hold/s which are of interest Tends to create a crux Normally for mid to hard grades • Steady away: Similar positivity of holds, no big or cruxy moves, keep it flowing and steady. This will be good for laps or warm-ups once wired. • Training routes: o Strength / endurance: think about what you are setting and why, progressively getting harder moves the higher up you go and / or les positive holds o Technique: “drill blocs” – repeated movements and sequences to help instructors develop techniques – some walls have dedicated technique areas • Ground up / organic: Better for creating a non-crux oriented route or problem Normally for lower or mid-grade setter grade range Easier for newer setters Holds for desired grade with area of wall in mind and start from the ground and work up.

7.2 Physical Process

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Being efficient is key to route setting and it takes lots of practice to set with speed and quality. One key aspect is to be able to set in reverse (both for routes and bouldering) so practice down climbing and visualising moves and sequences in reverse. • Top down: Normally used in roped setting (one up / one down) Can be very fast and efficient Hard to judge distance / feet / to test moves Select holds for desired grade with area of wall in mind and work from top down • Hands up, feet down: many setters will set the hand sequences first, on the way up and set the feet on the way down, while pinning holds – a tool belt is very helpful to keep holds in so you minimise the time moving on ladders.

8. Setting Movement Rock-over: From basic to extreme difficulty this move can be set in three different ways: 1: (easier)Three hands to glory – three vertically holds to build height for the climber and a foot hold to the side 2: (harder) Two hands to glory – using the match or pair of handholds to gain height for the rock-over foot and then moving out to the next handhold 3: (Hardest) One hand to glory – with a hand hold off to the side and above the “rock over” hand / foothold which is required to be matched – with hand and same-side foot to move off of Cross-over: A sequence which can be forced by directional holds and a bigger move to the next hold. Can be good to set up other moves or used by itself in easier grades. Undercut: Good for any grade using directional holds. Made harder or easier by hold size / positivity and the entering / exiting body position of the climber – difficulty can be height dependant (position of footholds), be aware of providing feet for the next moves Layback: Good for any grade using directional holds. Made harder or easier by hold size / positivity and the entering / exiting body position of the climber – difficulty can be made harder/easier depending on the foot hold height and location to the centreline (line running directly below hand holds) The higher and closer to the centre line the harder the layback. Egyptian: More necessary on harder climbs as mainly useful on steep terrain. Usually the pulling hand is on an undercut or side-pull. Can be made harder depending on the foot positions (in the middle is best- higher/lower creates difficulties) Dynos: Good for harder climbs. Often height dependant but higher foot holds can help the short. Sideways dyno’s are also better for the short Knee bars: Quite technical so better for harder climbs. Also height dependant as leg length is crucial. Squashing/bicycle:

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Used on harder climbs as only used in a roof. Hold should ideally be double sided. Clock: Use a sequence of 3 holds to get from the initial hold with one hand to end up finishing with the other hand on it. This obviously can’t just be matched. Often used on harder climbs as quite technical to read. Mantle: Love or hate them the mantle is a classic. A wider more positive mantle hold means you can bring a foot up and the position of the “pushing” foot will make it harder or easier, also the angle obviously will dictate the strength / balance ration

9. Hold types for specific setting • Pockets: Great for forcing sequences as can’t be matched. Good for dead-points as need to be accurate to grab hold of, for this reason an off balance move or slap to a pocket will make the move harder. Also good as bad footholds. Be cautious with children as can be tendon unfriendly. • Volumes: Hard to read a sequence when moving through a volume so good for competitions, can be very height dependent or not so care is needed, also very good for compression and balance. • Direction holds: Directions holds are a generic hold type which forces the climber to uses the hold a certain position – this could be a non-matchable crimp as a gaston or layback, an undercut or sometimes a poor sloper (can only be held when weight is under the hold. Many times this direction hold is actually a combination of actual hold and how it is being used

10. Testing (Forerunning) All setting should be tested before it is open to the public, the objective of this testing is: • Safety: to ensure all holds are tight and not damaged, that there are no hazards created by the hold placement and there are no excessive gaps, set screws missing, obstructions or anything else which could compromise safety. Additionally, the testing is looking for ergonomic position of the holds, considering the difficulty, and all other setting considerations.

• Quality: testing is necessary for overall quality – was a foot hold forgotten or will minor (or major) adjustments be required to make the sequence work. Setters should expect to tweak their work and it is not a negative to do so, striving to make the best set possible will require a bit of adaption – however experienced setters should not have to do excessive changes regularly as they should be able see what will work or not before the testing stage.

Testing, ideally, should be completed by another setter climbing the problem (or route) as an average climber at the relevant grade. This means that if your tester is 6 foot 5 inches / climbing 8a and they are testing a kids 4+ they will need to adapt their

14 | www.routesettingassociation.org – dedicated to route setters The Route Setting Association climbing style acutely. This is very important and watching your setting being climbed gives important insight for development. The tester has a responsibility to not only climb for the grade but to give useful and constructive feedback, this feedback combined with the ability to discuss improvements will help create the best setting possible, but it can only happen with a knowledgeable tester.

11. Setting Exercises Each participant will set a selectin of the following (in teams if necessary) and test collectively to discuss and improve.

Forced rockover Easy Medium Hard

Heel hook Easy Medium Hard

Mantle Easy Medium Hard

Undercut Easy Medium Hard

Barndoor Easy Med Hard

Toehook Easier

Simple Dyno Easier but forced

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12. Advanced Setting Practice Stuntworx / Parkour type setting – momentum and balance • Video observation – analysis • Resources o Space o Holds / volumes o Clients • Hazards o Fall hazards o Impact hazards • Setting Practice o Each setter (or team) will set a problem using momentum / balance. ▪ Easy ▪ Medium ▪ Hard

13. Setting for Children i. Movement adaptation – the shrink ray (no reach does not come from your elbow / arms) ii. Hold selection 1. Radius 2. Size – small and large holds will be help differently 3. Growing and excessive force on joints / bones / tendons iii. Height restriction (e.g. end lower) iv. 3D type climbing – noodles / volumes / other and possible hazards v. Playground equipment (awareness only) vi. Grouped instruction lines vii. Birthday party lines / interactive feedback (buzzer / horn / other)

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14. Setting for inclusive climbing Get a complete setting brief. a. This includes specifics of their level of function, climbing experience, physical and mental ability and if relevant what category they would sit in for competitions (more on this later). b. What areas of the wall can be used: o Angles, corners, slab, other c. What hold selection is available d. What areas of the wall are available (lighting / sound / in public view) e. Are protection points a consideration (rigging or hoists, ground anchors or other) f. Access to the wall and how the climber is going to get to the bottom Area Selection a. Find the correct angle of climbing surface for the climbers b. Identify hazards in the surrounding area including possible swing / fall hazards c. Identify disability specific hazards (e.g. noise for autism) d. Consider protection requirements (where will the rope be?)

Area preparation a. Remove or mitigate hazards: tape up hangers (or remove), remove quick- draws and any other entrapment features b. Consider if the route or problem needs to be isolated from other colours (VI or Learning disability may make this more of a concern) c. Double check for hazards in the climbing surface (screws / sharp edges / damaged volumes…) Categories for competition. - The below table is the separation as set forth by the IFSC for Paralympcis. Each category has a wide spectrum of ability within it; for example a climber with a spinal injury – wheel chair user- and cerebral palsy – walking – might be in the same category. Additionally, these categories may not indicate the actual level of function and can only be used as guidance.

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Neurological Physical Two different levels of physical disability caused by Disability (NPD) A & B interruption between the brain and the body with A being the most severe and B being less severe; Visual Disability B1-3 Based on the level of visual disability B1 being the most severe and B3 less sever

B1 Competitors in this classification are totally or almost totally blind B2 visual field constricted to a diameter of less than 10 degrees B3 visual field of more than 5 degrees and less than 20 degrees Seated Climber A person who has no mobility in their legs or may have both legs missing Arm Amputee Currently arm amputee climbers are not split off into categories so a climber with no arm shoulder down could be competition against a climber who is amputee/limbless from the wrist down Leg Amputee Leg Amputee/Leg Again there is no specification on the length of the leg and a person with a prosthetic will compete against a person without one

Neurological Physical Disability A & B: There is a massive spectrum or function within this category, however generally the climbing style climbers of this category present would be similar to non-disabled climbers. Visual Disability B1-3 (VI): Consideration when setting for this category include: Contrasting colours, good lighting, route height with regard to the site guiding (can they see it all), tracking between holds (strips) Seated Climber: When setting identify the height of the starting holds (access from chair), angle of wall (steeper to keep legs away from the wall), possible use of volumes / off -width / crack features but consider bruising / healing Rope Management / tailing may be required Arm Amputee(time limit?): Consider level of function / length of amputation and relevant hold size for ability to wrap elbow / wrist, angle of the wall (less steep), bridging / corners, knee bars / volumes / jams very useful, emphasis on foot / leg work, dead point from various hand positions, arête use Mirror routes for competitors with opposing arm amputee Leg Amputee (no prosthetic): Consider level of function / length of amputation (if prosthetic is used consider the range or movement and type of prosthetic), emphasis on arms

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over leg work, footholds more central to body to give opposing force, hand holds positioned to give ability to tension off foot, crack climbing / jamming – avoid bridging

a. Physical considerations of the climber i. Vision: Finding out how much vision they do have is very helpful as they may be using site guiding (ground based spotter with or without a radio) or not. 1. Keep the area clear, ideally contrasting coloured holds with regard to the climbing surface 2. Good lighting b. Learning disabilities and impact on setting i. TBC

Setting Practice for inclusive climbing • Arm Amputee Easy Med Hard

• Leg Amputee Easy Med Hard

• Seated Climber o Any

• Visual Impairment o Any

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Top Tips • Setting with “Mini blocs”: Use a bank of 2-3 move sequences to piece together and build whole problems. So, if you have 10 mini blocs of 2-3 move sequences you can mix and match them to create lots of different climbs. • Pointing hands and feet: On easier climbs, use holds on arêtes or on volumes even if not needed as are a good pointer to use sections of wall. Also can be used to help direct the feet or body of newer climbers (e.g. pointing a flag or smear to help developing climbers). • Balance: Ultra important for easier routes to keep the climber in balance but also as important to set to enable developing climber to learn off- balance movement. Examples of off balance move like arête barn doors, no hand slab problems. • Don’t be clever! We all want to set the best problem the world has ever seen, but it is very unlikely to happen, particularly when there is a time constraint… so have a play when there is time but when setting commercially think about the value of how much time you spend on a route or problem, regardless even if you think it is perfect someone will just dyno past your amazing crux. • Crowding/ blocking: This can be a positive or a negative, as a positive “blocking” a hold can reduce the size or nature of a hold or you can crowd a few holds together to form a pocket or something more unusual. This technique can also be used to help reduce spinning holds. On the negative think about where you are placing a hold with regard to other problems, are you destroying someone’s masterpiece? This is particularly important when arêtes or volumes are being used for hands or feet.

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Written by: Nathaniel (Nate) McMullan

Thanks to Graeme Hill, Ben Meeks, James Nicholas and Lloyd Betsworth (and lots f others!) for input and assistance with development.

Information used: http://www.hse.gov.uk/aala/articles/work-at-height-regulations.htm HSE resource INDG455 1/14 HSE resource INDG383 6/14 http://www.hse.gov.uk/risk/index.htm

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Example Risk Assessment (Not Complete!):

Hazards Who is Risk Level Control measures Risk level affected? before after controls controls

Spinning Users High Trained and competent setters Medium/High1 holds (climbers) attaching the holds securely. All routes / problems tested before used by public.

If hole is provided for secondary fixation point it is used (where possible with type of climbing surface).

If no secondary fixation hold is provided a perimeter screw is used when deemed necessary to block hold from spinning (if possible with type of climbing surface).

Users warned of risk of spinning holds.

Climbing wall operators develop an effective spinning hold policy which includes attending spinning holds as soon as reasonably practicable.

Finger traps Users Med Competent setters not placing holds from gaps with gaps behind them (4mm Max.) behind holds

Chemical Setters Medium Holds soak in ventilated, well-lit area. Low substances (hold washing Containers with toxic substances clearly with marked and put away when not in use. chemical) Protective eyewear and gloves to be used when washing holds.

All COSSH recommendations followed

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Falling from Setters High Only competent staff to set. Low height Alternative means of access considered - use of practicable MEWPs where possible by qualified staff.

Setters only work using accepted procedures

Safe Ladder Use when setting (RSA Document)

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