RSA Level 1 Course Manual V1.3 2016
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The Route Setting Association Route Setting Association Level 1 Course Manual V1.3 Copyright 2016 Unauthorised reproduction is not permitted. 1 | www.routesettingassociation.org – dedicated to route setters The Route Setting Association Introduction This document has been created to help develop Route Setters and refine Good Practice while route-setting. The information in this document relates to Boulder setting (including traverse walls) only and does not explore roped route- setting (these techniques are detailed in the RSA Level 2 Course). This document is NOT intended to be used alone; it must be used in conjunction with a training course with a RSA approved trainer. This document is a working document and the content is constantly evolving, therefore it is important to check regularly on the RSA website for updates. Remit This training is intended to supply route setters with the personal skills to route set on bouldering and traverse walls; it is not a supervisory qualification. Upon successful completion of the course (assessment will be throughout the course) candidates will be issued with a certificate of completion; this is valid for three years. To re-validate the Level 1 qualification a RSA approved CPD event must be attended. This event must equal at least one point (one point equals one 8-hour day). Successful attendance of this event serves as re-accreditation of the Level 1 Route Setter qualification for a further three years. Should a Level 1 Setter holder not accrue at least one CPD point during a three-year period, their accreditation will lapse until a point is gained. If the accreditation has lapsed for more than 1 year they must re-certify by attending and passing a full Level 1 course. Neither the Route Setting Association (RSA) nor your Trainer accepts responsibility for the actions of any route setter; it is their own responsibility to act in a safe and prudent manner. If any route setter feels that they need additional training to work safely, it is their duty to seek it. The RSA strongly advise that if any route setter has questions with any of the techniques in this document or with regard to route setting in general they contact their course trainer or the RSA using the contact details in this document. This course is not intended to explore the complicated situations which may be encountered during competition setting, Dry Tooling or other situations not specifically identified in this document. 2 | www.routesettingassociation.org – dedicated to route setters The Route Setting Association 1. Setter Safety 1.1 Fundamentals of access for Boulder Setting - Ladders Is Boulder setting considered working at height? “Work at height” means: (a) work in any place, including a place at or below ground level (b) obtaining access to or egress from such place while at work, except by a staircase in a permanent workplace, where, if measures required by these Regulations were not taken, a person could fall a distance liable to cause personal injury. Boulder Setting is working at height. This means that legally there are basic conditions which the HSE require: (1) Every employer shall ensure that work at height is: (a) properly planned (b) appropriately supervised (c) carried out in a manner which is so far as is reasonably practicable safe and that its planning includes the selection of work equipment in accordance with regulation 7. (2) Reference in paragraph (1) to planning of work includes planning for emergencies and rescue. (3) Every employer shall ensure that work at height is carried out only when the weather conditions do not jeopardise the health or safety of persons involved in the work Every employer shall ensure that no person engages in any activity, including organisation, planning and supervision, in relation to work at height or work equipment for use in such work unless he is competent to do so or, if being trained, is being supervised by a competent person. In identifying the measures required by this regulation, every employer shall take account of a risk assessment under regulation 3 of the Management Regulations. (2) Every employer shall ensure that work is not carried out at height where it is reasonably practicable to carry out the work safely otherwise than at height. Planning the activity would include a written risk assessment with a documented procedure for the work, this risk assessment would satisfy the HSE guidance for risk assessments as in: Appendix RSAL1.1 and the “plan” or method statement could also be the company’s operating procedures. Selection of equipment would include use of appropriate ladders, all work ladders should be compliant to EN 131, in good condition and part of regular and ongoing documented checks and inspections. HSE resource INDG455 1/14 discussion and practical: • Definitions • Checks • Use 3 | www.routesettingassociation.org – dedicated to route setters The Route Setting Association Variations of use while boulder setting: • Tool belts and lanyards • Bedding ladder into crash mats – keep secure o Be aware of top staying in contact with wall as it settles (e.g. under steep roofs) o Reasons for not attaching top ▪ Duration of work ▪ Safety Flooring under ▪ Bedding makes more stable • No hazards in fall space, holds tools, people (including ladder boards or parts of the ladder) • Step ladders and use under roofs o Locking parts o Side on work o Points of contact 1.2 Manual Handling Route setting requires holds and holds are heavy. When moving holds (and preforming other tasks) route setters must take measures to prevent musculoskeletal disorders (MSDs). This is a legal requirement as set forth in The Manual Handling Operations Regulations 1992. HSE resource INDG383 6/14 discussion and practical: • Definitions • Examples Route Setting specific: • Where holds are stored and transport to the work area • Working in teams • Using crates / trollies / other • Underfoot surface and hazards ▪ Wash areas ▪ Stairs ▪ Crash mats 1.3 Tools Tools are a critical part of route setting and they must be used properly not just to work efficiently but also for the safety of the setters and the public. Power tools must be evaluated for condition and the manufacturer’s recommendations followed for duration of use and accompanying PPE. Any work with tools must be risk assessed, particularly when in possible contact with liquids, such as when power washing holds. What tools are used during a set vary depending on the needs of the set and availability; however normal tools and considerations are below: Hand Tools 4 | www.routesettingassociation.org – dedicated to route setters The Route Setting Association ▪ Allen key – 6mm / 8mm ▪ Ratchet set (with Allen key adapter – not always required) ▪ Hammer / mallet ▪ Tap (to re-thread t nuts) ▪ Hack saw ▪ Mole Grips (to remove broken screws) Power tools ▪ Impact driver – training and experience required! Noise, vibration, broken holds, damaged t nuts may all be a result from improper use – PPE may be required ▪ Cordless Drivers – (setters elbow / wrist / shoulder can be typical injuries particularly when no clutch is used) ▪ Power washers – proper training, electric shock risk, vaporising of chemicals, noise, high power stream of water are all considerations 1.4 Other Equipment Other equipment can be used to help the setter work more quickly and easily, tool belts, lanyards, gloves may all be useful and it is important to consider the risk of injury both in the short and long term. 1.5 Hazardous Substances When setting it would not be normal to come in contact with hazardous substances, however when washing holds or stripping holds some precautions may necessary. Most climbing chalk in low concentration would not be particularly hazardous (unless lung / breathing / allergic issues are present) but in some climbing walls with poor ventilation a dust mask is recommended if chalk levels are high or a setter will be in regular contact, this should be determined by a risk assessment before work commences. Hold washing with a light acid is common at many centres, it is recommended to use a purpose designed grip wash with a full COSHH sheet. Precautions, usage instructions and required PPE are recommended to be followed as per manufacturer’s instructions (including disposal). Do NOT rinse acid / hold wash with a power washer as this can vaporise the acid and it is possible to breathe it in and / or get in pretty much everywhere. 5 | www.routesettingassociation.org – dedicated to route setters The Route Setting Association 2. Holds and Volumes Not surprisingly route setting requires holds, ideally all the holds used will conform to BS/EN 12572-3, however most walls have a mixture of new and older holds and it is not possible to identify which do or do not conform. Regardless, all holds must be of good condition and not damaged (other than minor edge or superficial damage) when used. If a route setter suspects a hold to be a hazard, don’t use it! Volumes are a primary component to modern setting, however many volumes are not made to the relevant standard (either BS/EN 12572 if they do not have hold placements or BS/EN 12572-1/2 if they do) so they must be evaluated with care before use and attached securely. It is not the route setter’s responsibility to ensure the holds or volumes have been manufactured to the relevant standard, only that they were in good condition when attached to the wall and that they were attached properly (in accordance with manufacturer’s instructions). When fixing any hold or volume, consideration must be made to its placement with regard to possible hazards (including if the hold or volume itself could be a hazard – e.g. large protrusion at the bottom of a slab) and that they be as flush as possible to the climbing surface (4mm gaps max – no finger entrapments).