The Route Setting Association

Level 2 Course Manual

Route Setter Training

V7.5 Jan 2015

Copyright 2014 – The Route Setting Association Unauthorized reproduction is not permitted.

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Introduction This document has been created to help develop Route Setters and refine “Good Practice” while route-setting. The information in this document relates to both roped and un-roped route setting (including traverse walls). Route setting has safety and legal implications for the Route Setter, the public and the climbers who use the routes and boulders. This document is NOT intended to be used alone; it must be used in conjunction with a training course (with a RSA approved trainer) to allow for the full understanding of techniques and content.

Remit This training is intended to supply route setters with the personal skills to route set safely at both roped and un-roped walls at a basic level; it is not a supervisory qualification nor does this course not evaluate the creative aspect of the route setters who attend (only safety will be assessed – creative aspects are explored on RSA workshops). Upon successful completion of the course (assessment will be on-going throughout the course) candidates will be issued with a completion certificate; this is valid for three years.

To re-validate the Level 2 qualification a RSA approved CPD event must be attended. This event must equal at least one point (one point equals one 8 hour day). Successful attendance of this event serves as re-accreditation of the Level 2 Route Setter qualification for a further three years. Should a Level 2 Route Setter holder not accrue at least one CPD point during a three year period, their RSA Level 2 accreditation will lapse until a point is gained.

Neither the Route Setting Association (RSA) nor your Trainer accepts responsibility for the actions of any route setter; it is their own responsibility to act in a safe and prudent manner. If any route setter feels that they need additional training to work safely, it is their duty to seek it. The RSA strongly advise that if any route setter has questions with any of the techniques in this document or with regard to route setting in general they contact their course trainer or the RSA using the contact details in this document.

This course is not intended to explore the complicated situations which may be encountered during competition setting, Paraclimbing or Dry Tooling.

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1) Setter Safety – 1.1 Fundamentals of access for Boulder Setting - Ladders

Is Boulder setting considered working at height?

“Work at height” Is defined as: (a) work in any place, including a place at or below ground level (b) obtaining access to or egress from such place while at work, except by a staircase in a permanent workplace, where, if measures required by these Regulations were not taken, a person could fall a distance liable to cause personal injury.

Boulder Setting is working at height. This means that legally there are basic conditions which are required by law.

HSE resource INDG455 1/14 discussion and practical:  Definitions  Checks  Use

Variations of use while boulder setting:  Tool belts and lanyards  Bedding ladder into crash mats – keep secure o Be aware of top staying in contact with wall as it settles (e.g. under steep roofs) o Reasons for not attaching top . Duration of work . Safety Flooring under . Bedding makes more stable  No hazards in fall space, holds tools, people (including ladder boards or parts of the ladder)  Step ladders and use under roofs o Locking parts o Side on work o Points of contact

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1.2 Fundamentals of access for Roped Route Setting The basic conditions which are required by law for all work at height are as follows (only roped setting relevant sections included):

Organisation and Planning: (1) Every employer shall ensure that work at height is: (a) properly planned (b) appropriately supervised (c) carried out in a manner which is so far as is reasonably practicable safe and that its planning includes the selection of work equipment in accordance with regulation 7. (2) Reference in paragraph (1) to planning of work includes planning for emergencies and rescue. (3) Every employer shall ensure that work at height is carried out only when the weather conditions do not jeopardise the health or safety of persons involved in the work

Every employer shall ensure that no person engages in any activity, including organisation, planning and supervision, in relation to work at height or work equipment for use in such work unless he is competent to do so or, if being trained, is being supervised by a competent person.

In identifying the measures required by this regulation, every employer shall take account of a risk assessment under regulation 3 of the Management Regulations. (2) Every employer shall ensure that work is not carried out at height where it is reasonably practicable to carry out the work safely otherwise than at height.

So in basic terms: - if there is another means of access, other than ropes, they should be used first (scaffold, lift, other) if practicable - the appropriate equipment and techniques will be used - a full plan (or method statement) must be created including rescue and emergency procedures - a risk assessment must be made - working in adverse climate is not permitted - work must only be initiated by “competent” staff unless it is training under a competent trainer

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1.2 Method of Access For most route setting the method of access is either by ropes or ladders, however in some instances cherry pickers, scaffold or lifts are the most sensible method and should be used (with additional training).

The three methods of protection most commonly used are defined as: Work Restraint: Techniques utilizing PPE to prevent a person entering an area where a risk of a fall from height exists Work Positioning: Techniques enabling people to work supported in tension or suspension by PPE in a way that a fall is prevented Fall Arrest System: Personal fall protection system intended to prevent a falling person from hitting the ground or obstructions and designed to limit the impact force of the fall and retain the user in a near upright position in the harness

ALL SYSTEMS 1. A personal fall protection system shall be used only if— (a) a risk assessment has demonstrated that— (i) the work can so far as is reasonably practicable be performed safely while using that system; and (ii) the use of other, safer work equipment is not reasonably practicable; and (b) the user and a sufficient number of available persons have received adequate training specific to the operations envisaged, including rescue procedures. 2. A personal fall protection system shall— (a)be suitable and of sufficient strength for the purposes for which it is being used having regard to the work being carried out and any foreseeable loading; (b) where necessary, fit the user; (c) be correctly fitted; (d) be designed to minimize injury to the user and, where necessary, be adjusted to prevent the user falling or slipping from it, should a fall occur; and (e) be so designed, installed and used as to prevent unplanned or uncontrolled movement of the user. 3. A personal fall protection system designed for use with an anchor shall be securely attached to at least one anchor, and each anchor and the means of attachment thereto shall be suitable and of sufficient strength and stability for the purpose of supporting any foreseeable loading. 4. Suitable and sufficient steps shall be taken to prevent any person falling or slipping from a personal fall protection system.

ADDITIONAL REQUIREMENTS FOR WORK RESTRAINT SYSTEMS A work restraint system shall— (a) be so designed that, if used correctly, it prevents the user from getting into a position in which a fall can occur; and (b) be used correctly.

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ADDITIONAL REQUIREMENTS FOR WORK POSITIONING SYSTEMS A work positioning system shall be used only if either— (a) the system includes a suitable backup system for preventing or arresting a fall; and (b) where the system includes a line as a backup system, the user is connected to it; or (c) where it is not reasonably practicable to comply with sub-paragraph (a), all practicable measures are taken to ensure that the work positioning system does not fail.

ADDITIONAL REQUIREMENTS FOR FALL ARREST SYSTEMS 1. A fall arrest system shall incorporate a suitable means of absorbing energy and limiting the forces applied to the user’s body. 2. A fall arrest system shall not be used in a manner— (a) which involves the risk of a line being cut; (b) where its safe use requires a clear zone (allowing for any pendulum effect), which does not afford such zone; or (c) which otherwise inhibits its performance or renders its use unsafe.

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REQUIREMENTS FOR ROPE ACCESS AND POSITIONING TECHNIQUES 1. A rope access or positioning technique shall be used only if— (a) subject to paragraph 3, it involves a system comprising at least two separately anchored lines, of which one (“the working line”) is used as a means of access, egress and support and the other is the safety line; (b) the user is provided with a suitable harness and is connected by it to the working line and the safety line; (c) the working line is equipped with safe means of ascent and descent and has a self-locking system to prevent the user falling should he lose control of his movements; and (d) the safety line is equipped with a mobile fall protection system which is connected to and travels with the user of the system. 2. Taking the risk assessment into account and depending in particular on the duration of the job and the ergonomic constraints, provision must be made for a seat with appropriate accessories. 3. The system may comprise a single rope where— (a) a risk assessment has demonstrated that the use of a second line would entail higher risk to persons; and (b) appropriate measures have been taken to ensure safety.

In this section a single line would account for the initial access for rigging and the “testing and tweaking” stages of route setting, where the setters as experienced climbers would use the same method of access as the customers for part of their safety checks (spinning holds, hazards or other).

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1.3 Manual Handling Route setting requires holds and holds are heavy. When moving holds (and preforming other tasks) route setters must take measures to prevent musculoskeletal disorders (MSDs). This is a legal requirement as set forth in The Manual Handling Operations Regulations 1992. HSE resource INDG383 6/14 discussion and practical:  Definitions  Examples

Route Setting specific:  Where holds are stored and transport to the work area  Working in teams  Using crates / trollies / other  Underfoot surface and hazards . Wash areas . Stairs . Crash mats 1.4 Tools Tools are a critical part of route setting and they must be used properly not just to work efficiently but also for the safety of the setters and the public. Power tools must be evaluated for condition and the manufacturer’s recommendations followed for duration of use and accompanying PPE. Any electric tools which could come in contact with liquids, such as when power washing holds, must be risk assessed, site voltage (110) and low voltage power cordless tools are recommended to be used when possible.

What tools are used during a set vary depending on the needs of the set and availability; however normal tools and considerations are below: Hand Tools . Allen key – 6mm / 8mm . Ratchet set (with Allen key adapter – not always required) . Hammer / mallet . Tap (to re-thread t nuts) . Hack saw . Mole Grips (to remove broken screws) Power tools . Impact driver – training and experience required! Noise, vibration, broken holds, damaged t nuts may all be a result from improper use – PPE may be required . Cordless Drivers – (setters elbow / wrist / shoulder can be typical injuries particularly when no clutch is used) . Power washers – proper training, electric shock risk, vaporising of chemicals, noise, high power stream of water are all considerations . Hazards of long term improper use – RSI, Hearing, other

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1.5 Hazardous Substances When setting it would not be normal to come in contact with hazardous substances, however when washing holds or stripping holds some precautions may be wise. Most climbing chalk in low concentration would not be particularly hazardous (unless lung / breathing / allergic issues are present) but in some climbing walls with poor ventilation a dust mask is recommended if chalk levels are high or a setter will be in regular contact. Hold washing with a light acid is common at many centres, it is recommended to use a purpose designed grip wash with a full COSHH sheet. Precautions, usage instructions and required PPE are recommended to be followed as per manufacturer’s instructions (including disposal). Do NOT rinse acid / hold wash with a power washer as this can vaporise the acid and it is possible to breathe it in and get contact to eyes.

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2.0 Safety of the Public The safety of the public is critical both during the set and afterwards. Although nothing can eliminate the risks of climbing and people can injure themselves regardless, a good route setter will try to reduce this as much as possible for the given .  During the set: o Close down the wall or the section of wall and restrict access. This should include barriers and or signage so that the public cannot enter a hazard area. (this barrier should not itself be a hazard to the public). . During roped setting this barrier or cordon may need to be able to catch dropped holds (this includes the rebound from rubber crumb) and at a minimum this area is to extend 3m from the furthest projection of the setting area o All tools will be attached to the route setter during roped setting via a lanyard o Set falls away from hazards o Set ergonomically (relevant to grade) to help to avoid sports injuries o Use the correct holds for the grade (e.g. no mons for easier problems) o Ensure the holds are flush to the climbing surface (4mm gap max) o Avoid creating entrapment features (constricting gaps with sharp edges are bad) o Remove all screws when stripping o Set holds to the height limitation of the wall (the problems can finish lower than the top of the wall, particularly for kids) o Test every problem and hold o Use set screws where needed o Provide descent routes in each area – o Finishing holds

 After the set: o Clear the work area of all equipment and tools o Complete a walk around looking for possible hazards o Clearly define grades, problems and finishing points

Other considerations:  Setting on Auto-belays: Auto-belays are increasing popular and although most setting is similar to normal routes special consideration should be take as below: o Do not use hooked holds and be particularly vigilant to avoid entrapment hazards o Finish the routes below the unit (so no slack will be build up) o Avoid setting dynos o Avoid setting far reaching traverses o Large finishing jugs may not be helpful

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3.0 Equipment Personal Protective Equipment: Fundamentally the equipment on the work line must be self-locking and the back-up device must be able to move up and down with the user, locking off automatically when weighted and not harm the rope. Appropriate equipment must also be able to be used in a rescue situation and able to be secured so that it is not dropped. This definition gives a wide variety of equipment type and manufacturer but before using a device an operative must fully understand its particular method of use and any limitations, to do this it may be necessary to research the technical data provided by the manufacturer and practice in a safe situation or receive training by a suitable trainer.

An example PPE list: Helmet – Ellios Harness – Avao / Falcon Ascender – Croll Descender – Rig, ID Back-up – ASAP (full body), DMM Catch, Duck, Shunt (proper training essential) Handled ascender with foot-loop Dynamic cows tails (3) 7-8 locking karabiners (screw gate) Sling (4ft)

In most roped setting scenarios using the Rig on the work line (for ascent and descent) is the preferred set-up as it makes rescues simple and does not require a full body type harness. NOTE: if using the Shunt it is essential to use the Rig and Shunt independently when descending and never to move the Shunt by handling the device body, this technique will be demonstrated and practiced during the training course.

Rope When selecting a rope for use it is recommended to use a 10.5mm or greater diameter single rated low-stretch type rope (EN 1891) for both the main work line and the back-up line. Dynamic ropes may be used but they are inefficient, difficult to use in long ascents and make rescues even harder.

The ropes, as with all PPE must be a fully rated and in good condition. NOTE: Some equipment require the use of specific ropes (e.g. the DMM Catch) check the technical data to confirm what equipment requires specific ropes.

Harnesses It is recommended that harnesses conforming to EN 813 for work positioning (Sit harness) and for Fall Arrest EN 361 (full body harness, however on some modular harness systems this can be accomplished by the addition of the appropriate chest harness) be used, please note that some harnesses only comply to

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EN 12277 and may not be sufficient, it is not recommended to use a normal .

Helmets Helmets are recommended to be used if there is a possibility of being hit by a dropped object or a foreseeable risk of head injury (as when moving behind a wall). When it is deemed necessary for helmet use they should provide resistance to impacts from above and to the side, be fully adjustable and able to be secured to avoid accidental loss in a fall. Mountaineering helmets complying to EN 397 are normally deemed acceptable.

Karabiners/ Connectors All will be of the locking closure variety, be of the appropriate size for use to avoid wide loading and be positioned as to be loaded along the major axis (normally with the spine). They will have the minimum strength rating of 22kn (major axis, gate closed)

Descenders They must: conform to EN 12841 Type C or EN 341 A, able to allow a controlled descent, able to stop automatically if the operative loses control, not cause shock- loading during braking, and not able to accidently be detached from the rope once threaded.

Ascenders Should not be able to accidentally be detached from the rope once engaged, not cause excessive damage to the rope when in use, and never be dynamically loaded. EN 12841 Type B or EN 567

Back-up Device The back-up device will be used in addition to ensure the safety of the operative should the working line fail or control is lost. The back-up device should lock automatically, help absorb any shock and not cause damage to the rope.

Haul Bags Bags should strong enough to safely support the expected load and be inspected before each use. Bags manufactured as “Haul Bags” are recommended, builders buckets and rucksacks are not recommended. When hauling it is recommended that a dedicated haul line be used. When hauling a captive / secure method (eg GriGri) must be used so that the bags cannot be dropped (hand over hand is not acceptable).

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3.1 Equipment Inspection / Use While working at height there are minimum requirements which we are, by law, required to adhere to. Very briefly these are WAH Regulations, LOLER and PUWER as outlined below (these are not fully complete, please look at the specific regulations for further information).

LOLER: Lifting Operations and Lifting Equipment Regulations 1998 Generally, the Regulations require that lifting equipment provided for use at work is: ■ strong and stable enough for the particular use and marked to indicate safe working loads; ■ positioned and installed to minimise any risks; ■ used safely, i.e. the work is planned, organised and performed by competent people; and ■ subject to on-going thorough examination and, where appropriate, inspection by competent people.

PUWER: Provision and Use of Work Equipment Regulations 1998 PUWER applies to all work equipment including that used to lift loads (including people), and covers the suitability, maintenance, marking and use of that equipment.

In addition to using the correct equipment and being competent to do so, the regulations dictate that; All equipment will be part of an inspection regime. This regime will include:

a. Each piece of equipment be identifiable b. The purchase and first use date be recorded c. A pre-use inspection d. A minimum of 6 monthly recorded inspection e. Records be kept for the life of the equipment f. The inspection regime be approved and enacted by a competent person

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4.0 Rigging Rigging at most climbing walls is fairly basic as they have purpose built anchor points and maintenance programmes. However, in any situation the anchors must be suitable for the expected load (min. 20kn rating), the work line anchor and back-up line anchor be independent, secure (locking karabiner or similar so the rope may not escape) and there should be no sharp edges or hazards which may damage the rope. Each line must be secured to the structure of the , e.g. a Y Hang has two bolts securing it so it can be used for one line, a quick-draw only has one so it is not to be used alone.

When attaching the rope to the anchor point there are a number of methods possible but normally a figure 9 on a bight will be the best choice as it will not tighten as much as a figure 8 when moving on the work line.

Knots normally used are: Figure 8 and 9 Scaffold knot Overhand Bunny Knot Alpine Butterfly

Knots and how they effect the strength of the rope

 Figure 8 – Approx 30-35% Loss in Strength  Figure 9 – Approx 30-35% Loss in Strength  Bowline – Approx 40-47% Loss in Strength  Alpine Butterfly – Approx 30-35% Loss in Strength  Scaffold Knot – Approx 30-35% Loss in Strength  Bunny Knot – Approx 30-35% Loss in Strength

Rigging of harness for dynamism / safety 3 Cows tails with locking karabiners

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4.1 Initial access for Rigging When rigging ropes for route setting the initial access is dependent on the facility and location of work in the particular climbing wall.

There are 3 types of access discussed in this document in order of preference. 1 Top access by foot 2 Bottom roped climbing access 3 access

 Top access by foot In this situation the access for rigging will be provided by a ledge or platform. The operative will be considered in work restraint and attached accordingly to an appropriate anchor point using a harness and cow’s tails (of a length not allowing a fall) at all times.

 Bottom roped climbing access This type of access is accomplished by a bottom roped climbing system, using a belayer to protect the operative. Only competent climbers and belayers are recommended to use this method and it is only to be used for initial rigging prior to route setting, testing routes and after completion of work and to de-rig the systems. Once route setting work is initiated it is recommended that an operative will be in work positioning mode using a two rope system (work line and back up).

 Lead climbing access In some areas of the climbing centre there are no ropes in-situ, therefore lead climbing is necessary to rig the work ropes for route setting. Lead climbing uses a belayer to protect the operative. It is important to note that Lead climbing has a higher level of risk and should be only attempted by operatives who are competent to do so. This method of access is only to be used for initial rigging prior to route setting, testing routes (bottom roped climbing access recommended for testing, if possible) and after completion of work and to de-rig the systems. Once route setting work is initiated it is recommended that an operative will be in work positioning mode using a two rope system (work line and back up).

If an operative has any doubt as to the techniques for bottom roped or lead climbing activities it is critical they receive proper training before attempting the procedures.

For additional information please see Libby Peter’s Essential Skills and Techniques.

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4.2 Rope manoeuvres All techniques will be demonstrated and practiced during the training with an emphasis on safety and that at all times the route setter must maintain two points of contact.

Attaching equipment and self to the rope systems Ascent using the Descender (RIG) Descent Securing self to an anchor using cow’s tails Using the various back-up devices including the Shunt and hazards of uncontrolled descent (alternating control of devices)

 Fall Arrest Climbing Fall arrest climbing is not recommended for normal route setting practice, the forces involved are much greater and the risk of injury much higher. However, in some situations fall arrest climbing is necessary to access some areas, such as behind the wall to repair T-Nuts, if this procedure is to be used extra precautions must be adapted, including a comprehensive rescue and evacuation plan. (e.g. how do you get the operative out from behind the wall?)

In addition: When Fall arrest climbing an operative MUST use a purpose made shock absorbing lanyards (EN 354) attached to the sternal attachment point on a full body harness (EN 354) or a sit harness with a modular chest harness addition.

It is CRITICAL that there is sufficient free fall space below the work area, this is to include the deployed length of the lanyard (check manufacturers technical data before use).

ALWAYS use the fall arrest lanyards in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations.

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4.3 Rescue Procedures The priority of any rescue is to ensure your safety and then that the condition of a casualty does not degrade. When rescuing a casualty there must always be two points of contact for both the rescuer and the casualty (except on fall arrest type rescues where the causality is lowered directly to the floor).

Rescue Priority: Personal safety, do not put yourself in danger Protect the causality by administering first aid and preventing further injury Evacuate the casualty to a safe location where emergency services can access them, be aware of possible spinal injuries and the moving the casualty may cause damage (however remember the airway is most important).

Shunts: When Shunts and the DMM Catch are used during rescues they must be maintained as high as possible and always above the height of your Descender.

For all rescues there may be a simple safe solution which will be quicker and easier (Can they be lowered on their equipment? Can the rescuer be belayed up on an adjacent line to do so?), very few situations need a super-fast response and rushing in may make the situation worse.

The following rescues will resolve most setting rescue scenarios; however it is important that an operative is practiced in the techniques and the situation is risk assessed before work is started. If there is any doubt that these techniques are adequate additional assistance / training may be needed.

It is CRITICAL that all work is fully risk assessed and only competent setters work at height. This competency includes the ability to rescue other setters in the foreseeable situations you will be working in. This document does not cover all situations, if in question get help before work is started.

4.3.1 Descent Rescue Causality in descent mode. (Their equipment is not in question)

Identify that there is a need for rescue Initiate the call for emergency services Ensure there is no danger to yourself Ascend the casualty’s safety line with your back-up on their work line Place them in an upright position and administer first aid if appropriate/possible Using a cow’s tail make an attachment to the causality’s main harness attachment point and then move your back up above the casualty Climb to be level with the casualty (you may need to move your ascender above their back up) Lower the casualty alternating between your descender and their descender Remember to keep your back-up (and their back up if being used) with you. When at a safe location put them into the SAP position 17 | www.routesettingassociation.org – dedicated to route setters The Route Setting Association

4.3.2 Snatch Rescue: Causality in descent mode.

Identify that there is a need for rescue Initiate the call for emergency services Ensure there is no danger to yourself Ascend the casualty’s safety line with your back-up on their work line Place them in an upright position and administer first aid if appropriate/possible Using a cow’s tail make an attachment to the causality’s main harness attachment point and then move your back up above the casualty Climb to be level with the casualty (you may need to move your ascender above their back up) and change into descent mode if not already in it Make an attachment from your Descender karabiner (or main attachment point on your harness) to the highest main attachment point on the casualty’s harness using 2/3 carabiners (locking) Remove the casualty’s back up device from the rope Lower the casualty on to you with their Descender and remove their Descender from the rope Add an additional friction carabiner to your lowering system and lower the casualty When at a safe location put them into the SAP position

4.3.3 Snatch Rescue: Casualty in Ascent mode or on a fixed point

Identify that there is a need for rescue Initiate the call for emergency services Ensure there is no danger to yourself Ascend the casualty’s safety line with your back-up on their work line Place them in an upright position and administer first aid if appropriate/possible Using a cow’s tail make an attachment to the casualty’s main harness attachment point and move your back up above the casualty Climb to be level with the casualty (you may need to move your ascender above their back up) and change into descent mode if not already in it Make an attachment from your Descender karabiner (or main attachment point on your harness) to the highest main attachment point on the casualty’s harness using 2/3 carabiners (locking) Remove the casualty’s back up device from the rope

Attach your foot loop (or a sling may be used) to the casualty’s highest main attachment point and then pass the foot loop through your back up device carabiner (an additional carabiner may need to be added a large one is helpful) Stand in the foot lop and pull upwards on the casualty’s harness until they can be disconnected from their ascender of fixed point. Lower the casualty on to you Clean any non-essential equipment from the system Add an additional friction carabiner to your lowering system and lower the casualty When at a safe location put them into the recovery position 18 | www.routesettingassociation.org – dedicated to route setters The Route Setting Association

This same procedure can be employed when rescuing in an or on a fixed point situation.

4.3.4 Other Rescue Situations Discuss rescue scenarios for fall arrest situations and how an advanced rescue plan may be needed with rigging for rescue or tools.  Releasable systems  Ground anchors  Fall Arrest rescue using hoist and lower system.  Rescue bags and teams.

4.4 Advanced rigging and technique Locking hoist systems 3 to 1 More Other methods and equipment

When to use a separate line for holds 8kg max on back-up Stripping holds and working in a team

5.5 Suspension Intolerance (From http://www.hse.gov.uk/falls/harness.htm) First aid management for harness suspension when working at height Following completion of an evidence based review of published medical literature on the effects of a fall triggering harness suspension, HSE confirms that no change should be made to the standard first aid guidance for the post recovery of a semi- conscious or unconscious person in a horizontal position, even if the subject of prior harness suspension.

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5.0 Holds and Volumes Not surprisingly route setting requires holds, ideally all the holds used will conform to BS/EN 12572-3, however most walls have a mixture of new and older holds and it is not possible to identify which do or do not conform. Regardless, all holds must be of good condition and not damaged (other than minor edge or superficial damage) when used. If a route setter suspects a hold to be a hazard, don’t use it! Volumes are a primary component to modern setting, however many volumes are not made to the relevant standard (either BS/EN 12572 if they do not have hold placements or BS/EN 12572-1/2 if they do) so they must be evaluated with care before use and attached securely. It is not the route setter’s responsibility to ensure the holds or volumes have been manufactured to the relevant standard, only that they were in good condition when attached to the wall and that they were attached properly (in accordance with manufacturer’s instructions).

When fixing any hold or volume, consideration must be made to its placement with regard to possible hazards (including if the hold or volume itself could be a hazard – e.g. large protrusion at the bottom of a slab) and that they be as flush as possible to the climbing surface (4mm gaps max – no finger entrapments). Additionally:  Do not obstruct protection points and be aware of where the rope runs so not to cause it or the hold / volume damage.

5.1 Hold Attachment Most holds can be attached to the climbing surface via a bolt or screws, it is strongly recommended that the manufacturer’s method of attachment is used and the hold is not modified. (e.g. don’t drill holds out / use bolts in bolt holes not screws) Bolt on Holds: Bolts are normally counter sunk (tapered) or flat (cap) headed 6mm or 8mm Allen key 10mm diameter bolts, fully threaded or shouldered (partially threaded) and vary in length. Different holds require different types of bolts (some will take both countersunk and flat) and it is important to use the correct type of bolt with the correct hold. How long the bolt is required to be depends on the hold fixing depth (the thickness of the hold) and the thickness of the climbing surface. The bolt should, ideally, protrude circa 3-5mm from the back of the t-nut to ensure correct fixing (other styles of placements require various depths of bolt). Bolts with shoulders are to be used with caution as the non-threaded area can damage the t nut if is driven into the threads.  Damaged bolts and t-nuts: Occasionally when attempting to tighten a bolt the threads of the bolt and or t nut may become damaged, it is important not to cross-thread the bolt, this is particularly true when impact drivers are being used as it is difficult to “feel” the threads. If you feel resistance when tightening the bolt or you notice damage to the bolt (threads or head) or t- nut do not force it! If the bolt is in question, throw it away. If the t-nut is in question than it can be re-threaded with a M10 tap (with t handle, not on a drill). Lubrication will help in the re-threading process and regular light lubrication of bolts / t-nuts may help avoid issues (although it is easier to over torque the bolt when using lubrication so care is needed). If a hold bolt

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becomes stuck (either during attachment or removal) it will need to be removed. Discuss the desired process with the centre manager but normally this may involve cutting the bolt off or breaking the hold, both of these techniques require care and appropriate PPE depending on the process / tools. E.G. eye protection, gloves or other.  Tightening / Torque: Every hold must be tight. How tight depends on many factors including; hold size, attachment surface, provision of secondary fixation point. Most manufacturer’s give guidance on torque values, however this this guidance is normally for attachment to untreated plywood (to meet the criteria for the BS/EN 12572-3) and is not relevant for real world setting. So how tight the hold should be tightened? “Until it is tight enough” is the simple answer, however this in not particularly helpful. A few factors which are pertinent: o Is there a secondary fixation point being used (this will be referred to as a “set screw” or “pin”)? If so the required torque may be less. o What substrate is the hold fixed to? If the substrate has friction the hold will be less likely to spin, wherein is it is a gloss or slick surface (suck as some concrete, paint or render) the torque may need to be higher.  Set Screws: Set screws are recommended to be used, if there is a secondary point of fixation and it is possible (e.g. on GRP / fibreglass screws cannot normally be used) this is particularly important when a hold is in a critical positon (such as a finishing hold or used in a sequence involving awkward body positions). Some holds may be pinned even though there is no secondary point of fixation (using a screw on the outside edge of the hold) however this screw should not present a hazard to climbers (e.g. not flush or presenting a sharp edge), the decision to use this method is the route setters and the need should be determined on a case by case basis, evaluating the forces involved, attachment surface and size / shape of the hold.

5.2 Screw-on Holds: Screw-on holds are a staple of the creative setter and provide great variety (no need for t-nuts!). Screw on holds should be attached via screws, the type and diameter of screw used should be in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations, but normally this is a 4-5mm x 50mm screw in all provided points. What head type to use is a hot debate, however very few setters use PZ2 (cross) heads as they round out easily and the bits break. T25 (torx) head screws seem to work very well but it is worth checking with the wall to see what they prefer (the next setter may not appreciate a variety).  Care is required when using screw-ons with an uneven surface as they can be delicate and prone to cracking, always go gently and test the holds to ensure they are not cracked or settle when weighted  Be cautious with regard to what is behind the climbing surface, screws do not like steel and if the screw snaps it can be difficult (or impossible) to remove.

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 If a screw does snap make sure it is not left as a hazard, if there is enough screw remaining proud a pair of mole grips can usually unwind it, if this does not work, the screw may have to be cut or ground off.

5.3 Dual Fixing Holds: Dual fixing holds may be attached with bolts or screws (set screws still recommended for bolt use). They are becoming justifiably more popular as they provide the best of both worlds and come in a variety of sizes. When using the screw in method remember to use all provided points.

5.4 Volumes: Volumes are an excellent way to add variety to your set and make plain walls interesting. Most volumes are either constructed from plywood or fiberglass and can be attached by screws or a bolt and screws. It is important to follow the manufacturer’s recommended method of attachment and use all or the provided fixation points.  If a volume is heavy or awkward it may be necessary to have a few setters help to attach or hold it.  Be cautious when placing volumes as they could become a hazard if in the fall area of other problems.  Ensure that the volume is in good condition including that the fixation points are not damaged, if the volume is delaminating of has sharp edges do not use it until it has been repaired or replaced.  Make sure the rules are clear on volume use, e.g. is it in for all surrounding problems?

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6.0 Setting Basics: Setting preparation: Setting Brief:  How many, how long, how hard and for who  Review feedback and comments and keep an open mind to suggestions Work area preparation  Risk assess the work area and prepare the equipment  Cordons / restrictions to keep public out of hazard area  Signage to give awareness  Tool and PPE  Toolbox talk Stripping of holds:  Clear fall area  Teams  Helmets used if working under other setters or at high risk of head impact Hold selection:  Holds for area / angle/ length of wall and grades to be set  Colours / manufacturers /sets Bolts / holds: type (counter sunk / flat / 6mm / 8mm / shoulders / length (3 threads min through back of t-nut) Screws: type / length (3 threads through back of ply/ diameter (4mm - 6mm, 5mm x 50mm most common) Tags: when to use, circuits / special rules / starting finishing

6.1 Setting for the intended users: All: accessible for the grade, without hazards and making them want more  Good setting: fun, challenging, flowing, technical, memorable, outdoorsy, thoughtful, powerful, balance, scary, lots of variety, cruxy  Bad setting: reachey, painful, thrutchy, outdoorsy, thuggy, scary, dangerous, horrible, shit, akward, samey, laddery, cruxy

Beginners points (up to V1 / FB5 / F5+):  Dos: simple sequences, good feet (for trainers), achievable, flowing, in balance, basic climbing movement, easier finishes, lower finish Easy starts and generous clipping / finishing holds

 Don’ts: reachey, require hand / foot matches, complex sequences, last move cruxes, “dangerous” holds (monos / small crimps)

Intermediate points (v2-v4, FB5+-6b+, F6a-6c+):  Starting to smear, more flexibility, introducing forced sequences, more difficult / advanced holds, proportionately smaller clipping / finish holds, more tenuous / exciting positions

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 Still be careful / aware of extreme limit moves and hold type

Advanced (v4-v7, FB6c-7a+, F6c+-7b+)  Thin precarious movements, long forced sequences, complicated advanced body positions, gymnastic / dynamic movements, introduce extreme limit moves and hold types

Elite (v7-v11, FB7b-8a, F7c-8c)  Aware of skin limits (slapping for sharp edges), unusual use of holds and volumes

6.2 Setting Process: Creative / physical process:  Blue-print : Good for new setters, or setting at or near max, and for new roped setters Design and set out all holds on the ground working the moves in your mind (or draw out on paper) designing route / problem working in specific moves / sequences  Chaos: Randomly select holds and put them up (even more so with; hold roulette) – this is a training technique!  Ripple: Envision a move or sequence and work away from it to the start and finish Easier for bouldering, usually works best with a specific move, sequence, or hold/s which are of interest Tends to create a crux Normally for mid to hard grades  Ground up: Better for creating a non-crux oriented route or problem Normally for lower or mid-grade setter grade range Easier for newer setters Holds for desired grade with area of wall in mind and start from the ground and work up.  Top down: Normally used in roped setting (one up / one down) Can be very fast and efficient Hard to judge distance / feet / to test moves Select holds for desired grade with area of wall in mind and work from top down

Top Tips  Setting with “Mini blocs”: Use a bank of 2-3 move sequences to piece together and build whole problems. So, if you have 10 mini blocs of 2-3 move sequences you can mix and match them to create lots of different climbs.  Pointing hands and feet: On easier climbs, use holds on arêtes or on volumes even if not needed as are a good pointer to use sections of wall.

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Also can be used to help direct the feet or body of newer climbers (e.g. pointing a flag or smear to help developing climbers).  Balance: Ultra important for easier routes to keep the climber in balance but also as important to set to enable developing climber to learn off- balance movement. Examples of off balance move like arête barn doors, no hand slab problems.  Don’t be clever! We all want to set the best problem the world has ever seen, but it is very unlikely to happen, particularly when there is a time constraint… so have a play when there is time but when setting commercially think about the value of how much time you spend on a route or problem, regardless even if you think it is perfect someone will just dyno past your amazing crux.  Crowding/ blocking: This can be a positive or a negative, as a positive “blocking” a hold can reduce the size or nature of a hold or you can crowd a few holds together to form a pocket or something more unusual. This technique can also be used to help reduce spinning holds. On the negative think about where you are placing a hold with regard to other problems, are you destroying someone’s masterpiece? This is particularly important when arêtes or volumes are being used for hands or feet.

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Example Risk Assessment (Not complete!):

Hazards Who is Risk Control measures Risk level affected? Level after controls before controls

Spinning Users High Trained and competent Medium/High1 holds (climbers) setters attaching the holds securely. All routes / problems tested before used by public. Setters use fixing holes or pin holds if hold is likely to spin due to positioning or surface.

Users warned of risk of spinning holds.

Climbing wall operators develop an effective spinning hold policy which includes attending spinning holds as soon as reasonably practicable.

Falling from Setters High Only competent staff to set. Low height Alternative means of access considered - use of practicable MEWPs where possible by qualified staff.

Setters only work using accepted procedures

Safe Ladder Use when setting (RSA Document)

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Equipment Setters High Equipment inspected, Low failure maintained and stored as per guidelines by competent member of staff.

Setters to do a pre-use check

Setter stuck Setters High An appropriate rescue plan Low on should be in place with rope/wall trained staff on site when setting takes place.

Appropriate first aid requirements met for site/activity.

Setters should not work in isolation.

Written by: Nathaniel “Nate” McMullan

Thanks to Ben Meeks, Pete Hill, James Nicholas and Lloyd Betsworth for input and assistance with development and Joby Davis for proof reading.

Information used: HSE Information from the website: http://www.hse.gov.uk/aala/articles/work-at- height-regulations.htm HSE resource INDG455 1/14 HSE resource INDG383 6/14 Petzl images from: http://www.petzl.com/en/pro/product-experience-and-technical- notice/rig IRATA information from: http://irata.associationhouse.org.uk/default.php?cmd=21 Rock Climbing Essential Skills and Techniques, Libby Peter (Mountain Training)

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