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A impact of shareholders’ revolt, Aerated Bread Co. (ABC), 76, 85, 148–149 105–107, 220 investment in W. Hill & Son, 213 aggressive expansionist plan, 213 as mass caterer, 12 catering to lower middle merger with Lockharts and JP class, 101 Restaurants, 204 cause of economic growth, 145 moving socially upward in consolidating depots in the post-war era, 216 City, 142 new policy of establishing licensed controversial sale of tobacco, restaurants, 215 146, 149 purchase of JP Restaurants, 214 decentralising cooking to individual reasons for merging with shops, 215 Lockharts, 212 depot and restaurant reflected class revolutionising eating out, 11 custom, 216 root cause of friction with Horace depression prompted firing of Pearce, 148 Arthur Pearce, 216 slow withdrawal from the City, 213 difficult war-time years, 213 strict temperance policy, 142 and Edwardian catering crisis, strong financial performance, 144 145–150 struggle over role of general Empire Restaurant, 215 manager, 146 hiring of Horace Pearce as General teashops acquired new meaning in Manager, 147 post-war era, 216

1 Note: Page numbers followed by ‘n’ refer to notes.

Aldersgate Street, 14, 56, 79–81, reserve fund, 179 85, 98, 101, 209 shareholders’ role in failure, 179 Assale, Brenda, 18 British Workman Public-House Company, 21, 50 Hind Smith, Mrs., 23 B origins, 51 Barnardo, Dr. Thomas Broomfield, Andrea, 10 East End coffee pubs, 28 Burnett, John, 3, 9, 13 Edinburgh Castle Coffee Palace, and mass market, 81 28, 31 Benson, John, 5n9, 16 Bentley, Joseph, 19, 105–106 C coffee public houses, 22, 47 Campbell, W.H., 168–170 interpretation of BTT crisis, 180 Cann, Charles, 113–114, 173, 184, view of Pearce/Hurst struggle, 158 187–188 Bird, Peter, 104 Carter, Rev. William, 20, 73, 88, 226 teashop revolution thesis, 104 influence on Pearce, 227 Birmingham Coffee House Catering companies Company, 28 adoption of new retailing Booth, Charles, 5, 5n9, 72, 104 strategies, 204 Bradford Coffee Tavern Company, attitude to alcohol sales, 219–220 32, 46 concentration of, 126 British Restaurants, 178 Edwardian economic crisis, British Tea Table Co. (BTT), 102, 110 123–124, 141, 145–150 causes of bankruptcy, 177 forming of subsidiary companies, 204 comparison with other catering post-World War I transformations, 203 companies, 109, 163 role of talented leadership, 210 comparison with Pearce & similarity in economic Plenty, 111 problems, 149 customers served, 2, 110 Changing customer taste, 123, 125, depreciation, reserves and goodwill 165, 211 as factors in economic crisis, Church of England Temperance 177, 234 Society, 21 economic problems in Coffee public houses, 10 Edwardian era, 159 and arrival of mass market, 41 faltering performance in early causes of economic decline, 62 1900s, 164 and class, 40 as mass marketer, 108–109 commercialisation of, 49 merging of Pearce & Plenty and criticism of, 34, 38 British Tea Table Co., 154 dividends of, 32, 44 mishandled goodwill, 178 doctrine of separate spheres, 41 new clerical workers as catalysts, 100 economic crisis in London, 61 outstanding issue of goodwill, 154 expansion, 32 INDEX 251

failure to appeal to lower middle Doré, Gustave class, 101 wood graving, 6 limitations of philosophy, 41 Dublin Total Abstinence Society, 21 limited demographic base of, 42 Liverpool, 10, 21–24, 26, 32, 34–35, 39n68, 41, 44, 46, 66 E London, 27, 31 Eating habits, 121, 125, 197, 211 official newspaper, 27 affected by demographic changes, 74 origins, 22 Edwardian Salford Ossington Coffee Palace, 31 Roberts’ family, 5 and philanthropy, 40 Ellis, Rev. James J. and philanthropists, 26 assessment of Pearce’s personality, 187 and poverty, 39 crisis of 1904–1905, 158 Rational Recreation at, 41 origins of Hurst Board hostility, recovery of, 43 166–167, 222 and religion in London, 36 Pearce on God’s mission, 74 revisionist view of, 48 review of his biography, 236 and Robert Lockhart and Ronald view of Hurst Board, 162–164 McDougall, 49 Express Dairy Co., 125, 149, 200n54 serious economic decline, 61 early history, 128n18 similarity to pubs, 29 slump in 1880s, 62 and spread, 37 F and total abstinence, 37 Fraser, W. Hamish women as patrons, 39 development stages of mass Coffee Public-House National marketing, 4 Society, 61 Coffee Public-House News, 19 Coffee stalls G coffee bars, 4 Galsworthy, Sir Edwin, 159 Coffee Tavern Company, Girouard, Mark 38, 61, 64 view of coffee houses, 33 Consumption Greenwood, Lord (Sir Hamar changing patterns of, 3, 211 Greenwood) concept of, 3 appraisal of Pearce’s contribution as Consumption of meals in the City, 2 mass caterer, 236 source of quarrel with Pearce family, 217 D “Gutter Hotel,” 4, 14, 80, 87, 92, Depot, definition, 2n1 115, 192, 226 Dingle, A.E., 9, 60 Gutzke, David W., 46n91, 72n7 interpretation of the mass market, 9 and place-product-packaging, 128n15 252 INDEX

H J Hall, E. Hepple John Bull, 174–176 distorted view of, 46 John Pearce Dining Rooms, 190 Heasman, Kathleen, 11, 53, 58–59, JP Restaurants 74n11, 98, 105n23, 109n41, 229 attracting women as customers, 234 Hurst, J.P., 94, 101–102, 109, 121, broader reach than BTT, 189 154–157, 163, 167–168, 184, clientele, 190, 234 188, 197, 231, 233 cold storage, meat and tea, 189 criticism of Pearce, 162 contrasts with BTT outlets, 193 impediments to BTT’s recovery, 171 distinctive managerial approach, 235 See also Hurst faction drawing large numbers of women in Hurst faction, 170 World War I, 199 attitude to alcohol, 222 impressive post-war performance, 235 backed by Lord Iveagh and light refreshments, 11–13, 15, 53, supporters, 167 57, 81, 91, 101, 104–105, blamed Pearce for BTT failure, 171 107–108, 124, 216 clash of two different business location of restaurants, 192 philosophies, 167 new bakeries on Viaduct criticism of, 177 buildings, 189 criticised Pearce’s age, 163 new catering philosophy, 190, 234 dislike of Pearce & Plenty depots, 165 nucleus of new company, 188 establishing British Restaurants outperformed its competitors, 193 (BRs), 171 post-1918 economic recovery, 200 failure to revive BTT depots, 172n62 relationship with customers, 197 inadequate reserve fund, 178 stiffer competition to Lyons, 189, 200 inferior meat controversy, 175 loyalty to John Pearce, 184 Pearce criticized, 165 L policies of recovery, 171, 176–177 Leading catering companies reserve fund and depreciation, 179 changes in stock prices, 150 resignation, 174 excessive numbers in City, 124 sought elimination of managing financial returns of, 124 director’s position, 163 Light refreshments, 127, 129, 216 stance towards selling alcohol, 166 catalysts of change, 101, 107 strategy for recovery failed, 172 Liverpool British Workman Public House Company, 52, 56 parallel with People’s Cafe Co., 58 I and total abstinence, 37 Ideal Restaurants, 135–136, Lockharts 211–212, 225 causes of economic woes, 131–134 Iveagh, Lord, 94, 109, 166–168, changes in menu offerings, 132 174, 180, 188, 221–223 class of customers, 65 INDEX 253

closed uneconomic shops, 133–135 clerical workers and teashop crisis in 1909, 135 revolution, 105 differences with Pearce & Plenty, 53 clientele, 2, 13, 103, 126 difficult war years, 137, 211 and Corner Houses, 204–205, 225 early years, 52–53, 223–224 corporate identity, 127 expansion into London, 52 declining profitability of teashops failure of city depots, 104 and corner houses, 205 in financial crisis, 133 development of food processing, 205 first London shop, 11 early history, 125–127 founding new chain, 132 explanation for teashop hired Arthur Pearce as general revolution, 107 manager, 134–136 pioneering food process and Idea Restaurants as a new chain, distribution, 205 135–136, 211–212, 225 and place-product-packaging neglect of premises, 134 philosophy, 127–128 offerings in the City, 52, 223 reasons for success, ouster of Chairman, 133 108, 126–127, 225 patrons, 131 and second industrial revolution, 205 reasons for early survival, 64 teashop expansion, 126 role of Arthur Pearce in recovery, 135 and teashop revolution, 105 selling inferior goods, 133 traits of teashops, 204 taken over by W. Hill & Son, 212 traits of London catering, 52 unwise economic policies, 133–134 M war-time difficulties, 211 MacDonald, Ramsay, 86 women as part of clientele, 52 Manchester Coffee Tavern Company, 27 wooing of women, 65 Market changes in the City, 100 working-class customers unable to Mass catering, 45–47, 111 sustain post-war recovery, 211 Liverpool, 24 working-class patrons, 212 origins of in London, 49 London Pearce, John, 15 dining for respectable women, 72 in retailing food, 8 eating places, 69 Mass food caterer, definition of, 11 London coffee public houses Mass food market, 1, 104 Coffee Tavern Co., 32 Burnett, John, 4n6 People’s Cafe Co., 31 emergence in London, 81 See also McDougall, Ronald historiography, 3, 9 Lower middle class, 12, 57, 71, 101, multiples, 6 103–104, 129, 140–141, 204, Mayhew, Henry, 4 208–209, 224 McDougall, Ronald, 220 Lyons, J. advent of mass market and Cadby Hall, 205 demise, 229 254 INDEX

McDougall, Ronald (cont.) National Temperance Caterers’ character flaws, 66 Association, 220n4 charlatan, 59 National Temperance League, 21, career failures, 59 23–24, 26–27, 30–31, 34, 37, commercialisation, role of, 58 40–41, 43–45, 62, 119 contributions to mass catering, 66 Newnes, George, 116 courting women as patrons, 57 demise, 63 differences with John Pearce, 64 O dispersed depots, 64 Obelkevich, James, 3n4 early career, 53–54 Oldham, Sir Henry, 94, 109, 121, exaggerating his career, 65 156–157, 170 Farringdon Street depot, 81 Orcy, Baroness impact of Liverpool experience, and ABC, 12 55, 58 introduced Liverpool teashops, 58 as leader of mass food catering, 65 P Liverpool philosophy transported to Pearce, Arthur, 212 London, 58 appointed Assistant General London’s deteriorating markets, 64 Manager at BTT, 158 Ludgate Circus, birthplace of Ideal Restaurants, 224 London teashops, 59 role in ABC purchase of JP market strategy of, 57 Restaurants, 215–216 and mass market, 60 won court case against ABC, 217 and middle-class patrons, 65 Pearce, Guy H. misreading of the market, 62 apprenticeship in US, 197 as originator of London’s teashops, 58 friction with ABC, 217 origins, 10 impact on father, 197 overly ambitious, 63 managing director of JP presentation, role of, 54 Restaurants, 184 profit sharing plan of, 58 Pearce, Horace, 168, 212, 233–234 reputation debunked, 59 friction with ABC Chairman, 147 Moody, Dwight L., 51, 66, 73 resigned from ABC, 148 influence on Pearce, 227 Pearce, John promotion of mass catering, 51 ability to anticipate changes in Multiples catering market, 218, 223–224 rise of, 8 and advertising, 92, 101–102, traits of, 8 116–117 appealing to different classes, 103, 190–192, 224 N appealing to women, 191, 199 National Coffee Tavern Association, assessment of catering market, 108 19, 22, 47, 119 attitudes to alcohol, 87, 89, 220–221 INDEX 255 business philosophy, 91, 189–190, interpretation of BTT crisis, 201, 232 180–182, 222–223 centralislation of roles, 111 JP Restaurants and alcohol licences, character, 73, 94, 117–118, 120, 167n46 189, 201, 226, 228 keys to mass catering, 83, 111 chemistry with staff, 73 late Victorian prosperity in catering, childhood, 72 153–154 as Christian, 92, 115–117, and masculinity, 78 119–120, 187 as mass caterer, 15–16, 84, 103 and class, 77, 107, 156, 163, 201, 224 as myth maker, 78 clientele at “Gutter Hotel,” 76 as nonconformists, 73 coffee bars, 79 perception of changing markets, contrast with coffee pub promoters, 90 99–101, 108 crisis of Edwardian years, 153 as philanthropist, 90, 228 drift children, 116 philanthropy, 20 and Dwight L. Moody, 52 pivotal importance of early jobs, 74 Sir E. Sullivan, 93 as employee, 112 power struggle with J.P. Hurst, 155 as employer, 112, 114, 184–188 promotion of temperance, 119, 220 encouraged loyalty with prosperity in late Victorian catering, employees, 185 157 establishing multiples, 80 rapport with staff, 187 establishing satellite stalls, 80 rapport with working class, 77 factors in success, 69, 76–77, 80, rational recreation, 220–221 85, 92, 113, 201, 226–227 reasons for success, 76–77, 85, factors shaping personality, 73, 94, 113, 201 117–118, 167, 226 recipe for success, 80 failed to get big shareholders’ resigned from BTT as managing support, 167 director, 159, 164 Farringdon Street depot, 81 role as Managing Director of BTT, few women at Pearce & Plenty, 82 162n27 as food market, 20 role in recruiting, 112–113 friction with J.P. Hurst, 156 and self-inflicted poverty, 88 God’s mission, 74 sensitive to criticism, 181 gross estate, 219 served no alcohol at Old Vic “Gutter Hotel,” 4 Theatre, 221 as hotelier, 84 Shaftesbury Temperance Hotel, 84 impact of sons, 20, 233–234, 236 social conscience of, 115, 227 influences on character, 73 staff welfare policies, 201 influences on life, 117–118 subsidiary companies, 224 insight into working-class eating support for 1889 London strike, 115 habits, 90–91, 225 and temperance, 20, 92, 119–120 256 INDEX

Pearce, John (cont.) R temperance advocate, 17 Refreshment News, 19 temperance hotels, 220 Revolution in retail distribution, testimony before Royal catalysts of, 3 Commission, 8 Richardson, D.J., 9 traits of multiples, 80 Rowton, Lord, 94, 114 war-time difficulties, 198 weak grasp of finances, 183 working-class perceptions of, 120 S See also Women Sale of Food and Drug Act (1875), 29 Pearce, Mrs. Shaw, Gareth, 3n5 role in family enterprise, 78 Sheffield’s British Workman Public Pearce & Plenty House Company, 50 and class, 90 Slaters, 107 clientele of, 86 appealed to clerks in 1920s, Farringdon Street, 8 140–141, 208 “Gutter Hotel,” 77 Beta Tea Rooms, 224 limited appeal to lower cause of declining sales, 138–139 middle-class, 86 criticism of performance in 1920s, 208 limited appeal to women, 86 customers seeking substantial profit margins of, 85 lunches, 141 unsuitable for lower disastrous war-time performance, 206 middle-class, 99 and Edwardian crisis, 138–142, 206 Pearce brother, as mass caterers, 80 evolved into large catering Pearce’s Coffee Bar company, 138 clientele at, 79 expanding beyond the City, 137 and famed beef steak falling dividends, 138–139 puddings, 79 goodwill and reserve fund as key to Pearce’s Dining and Refreshment recovery plan in 1920s, 209 Rooms huge reserve fund, 140 as mass caterers, 97 leases as cause of economic woes, role of philanthropy, 94 141–142 Penny capitalist, 20, 79, 157 merger with Bodega Co., 208–209 People’s Café Co., 11, 55–56 move into licensed restaurants, early economic problems, 62 1920s, 208 diverse problems, 63 opened Beta Tea Rooms, 208–209 houses of, 56 opened ladies room in West End, 140 pioneered gender desegregation in opening shops in West End, 138 teashops, 59 problems with goodwill, 206–207 Pioneer Cafés, 190 profits in City from lunch trade, 207 Public houses, 75 recovery plan in Edwardian era, sale of food, 70 140–141 INDEX 257

role of depreciation, 179 Westminster Cafés shops autonomously operated, 137 aimed at upmarket clientele, 192 shortcomings of restaurants, 206 W. Hill & Son, 200n54, 212–213 Social mobility, 1, 5, 77, 88, 90, 101, Williams, Marguerite, 17 187, 219, 225–226 Women, 78–79, 199, 234 Spiers & Ponds, 208, 222 as catalysts of change, 110–111 Subsidiary catering, 225 eating in the City, 105–106, 114, Sullivan, Sir Edward, 14, 93–94, 132, 191 101–102, 109, 114, 121, 154, See also Coffee public houses; JP 156–157, 166n44, 181, 188, 219 Restaurants; Lockhart; McDougall, Ronald; Pearce & Plenty; Slaters; T Teashops Tapp, Nicholas, 168–170, 173 “Teashop revolution,” 103–105 Pearce’s role, 15 Y Peter Bird’s interpretation, 106–107 Ye Mecca, 124–125, 130, 200 Teashops clientele of, 129 devoid of women in City, 142 Edwardian economic crisis, 131 Temperance Caterers’ Journal Co., new Chairman Edward Hart vital to 220n4 post-war recovery, 210 Temperance Chronicle, 19 offputting underground Thompson, E.P., 17 depots, 209 Picard’s Cafés, 210, 224 reconstruction of depots key to W recovery, 209 Walton, John, 5n8 role of Edward Hart in Ward, James, 18n36 recovery, 204