1 THE EVOLVING RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN FOOD AND TOURISM: A CASE STUDY OF DEVON THROUGH THE TWENTIETH CENTURY Submitted by: Paul Edward Cleave, to the University of Exeter as a thesis for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in Management Studies. November 2011 This thesis is available for Library use on the understanding that it is copyright material and that no quotation from the thesis may be published without prior acknowledgement. I certify that all material in this thesis which is not my own work has been identified and that no material has previously been submitted and approved for the award of a degree by this or any other University. Signature............................................. 2 Acknowledgements I would like to thank everyone who contributed so generously and patiently of their time and expertise in the completion of this thesis, and especially to my supervisor, Professor Gareth Shaw for his guidance and inspiration. Their unfailing support and encouragement in my endeavours is greatly appreciated. Paul Cleave 3 Abstract The aim of this thesis is to examine the evolving relationship between food and tourism through the twentieth century. Devon, a county in the South West of England, and a popular tourist destination is used as the geographical focus of the case study. Previous studies have tended to focus on particular locations at a fixed point in time, not over the timescale of a century. The research presents a social and economic history of food in the context of tourism. It incorporates many food related interests reflecting the topical and evolving, embracing leisure, pleasure and social history, Burnett (2004). Food is presented from the perspectives of production and consumption, not only its commercial provision in the hospitality industry, but also that emanating from the domestic, home, and farmstead. The significance of food and tourism is emphasised by Hall and Sharples (2003), and Croce and Perri (2010) in the development of Food tourism (and Wine tourism), reflecting increasingly specialised and niche interests. However, this thesis aims to show how food and tourism encompasses, food, culture, and history, and plays an important role in the economic development of the county. The thesis presents multiple data sources, primary and secondary, questionnaires and in-depth interviews. It utilises these in conjunction with numerous historical records and archival materials to investigate evolving trends and patterns in the food and tourism evolution. A case study demonstrates ways in which food is an experience, attraction, and motivation to visit a destination, and shows how tourism’s relationship with food has evolved throughout the twentieth century. 4 List of tables Table 1.1 Structure of the thesis 24 Table 1.2 The timescale eras 27 Table 3.1 Five key factors associated with food 71 Table 4.1 The research components 103 Table 4.2 The research objectives and data sources 104 Table 4.3 Contrasts between quantitative and qualitative research 105 Table 4.4 The five timescale eras 112 Table 4.5 The historical and evolutionary dimension of tourism 114 Table 4.6 Food and tourism the evolutionary process 115 Table 4.7 Fordist, post fordist and neo fordist tourism characteristics – the food dimension 116 Table 4.8 Potential food encounters in tourism 117 Table 4.9 Data sources 121 Table 4.10 Advantages and disadvantages of archival research 128 Table 4.11 Archival sources in Devon 128 Table 4.12 A comparison of structure, interviewer involvement & researcher involvement among data collection methods 129 Table 4.13 Archival resources, i 130 Table 4.14 Archive resources, ii 131 Table 4.15 Eras covered by literature 134 Table 4.16 The data collection process 136 Table 4.17 Potential sources for respondents 137 5 Table 4.18 Tourism stimuli and prompts 138 Table 4.19 Newspaper sources 139 Table 4.20 The pilot interview 143 Table 4.21 Objectives covered by demand and supply questions / oral histories 149 Table 4.22 Eras covered by demand and supply interviewees 150 Table 4.23 Sampling framework oral histories-supply, producers 152 Table 4.24 Sampling framework oral histories – demand, tourists 153 Table 4.25 Timetable supply –producers interviews 154 Table 4.26 Timetable demand tourists’ interviews 155 Table 5.1 Archival resources and the research objectives 165 Table 5.2 Archival resources 173 Table 5.3 Era/Potential archival resources 174 Table 5.4 Analysis grid 1, postcards dating to 1925 182 Table 5.5 Analysis grid 2, postcards dating to 2000+ 183 Table 5.6 Cards depicting food 185 Table 5.7 Exeter City Guides 1902-2010 199 Table 5.8 Themes emerging from the guidebooks 212 Table 5.9 News media 220 Table 5.10 Food outlets, Cathedral Yard Exeter 230 Table 6.1 Key respondents 242 Table 6.2 Food as a souvenir 246 Table 6.3 Food related tourist activities 249 Table 6.4 The experience of foods eaten on holiday 251 Table 6.5 Eating out on holiday 253 Table 6.6 When respondents’ stayed in Devon 254 Table 6.7 Length of stay in Devon 256 Table 6.8 The range of accommodation 256 Table 6.9 Key respondents’ supply and demand 281 6 Table 7.1 Resorts and food associations, food products, and outlets 331 Table 7.2 Agriculture, food and tourism in Devon 333 Table 7.3 Dishes associated with Devon 339 Table 7.4 Food interests over time 343 Table 8.1 Key findings 349 7 List of plates Plate 4.1 Postcard, Devonshire Dumplings 146 Plate 5.1 Postcard, A Devon Welcome 187 Plate 5.2 Postcard, Real Devonshire cream 188 Plate 5.3 Hammett’s Dairies 204 Plate 7.1 Cream Tea festival logo 2008 335 Plate 7.2 Postcard, A Devon Welcome 340 Plate 7.3 Postcard, Devonshire Cream Tea 341 Plate 7.4 Postcard, Addison’s Royal Cafe and Creamery 342 List of figures Figure 1.1 Devon the case study location 30 Figure 4.2 Map showing the location of Devon 119 Figure 4.3 Beautiful Devon tourist map 120 List of Abbreviations BTA British Tourist Authority DMO Destination Management Organisation DTA Development of Tourism Act (1969) ETB English Tourist Board PDO Protected Designation of Origin PGS Protected Geographical Status PGI Protected Geographical Indication 8 Table of contents Page Chapter 1 Introduction 1.1 Introduction, food and tourism 18 1.1.1 Structure of the chapter 21 1.2 Aims and objectives of the thesis 21 1.2.1 Research objectives 22-23 1.3 Structure of the thesis 23-24 1.4 The choice and selection of data 24 1.5 Learning from the past and the experience of others 25 1.6 The literature review chapters 26 1.7 Methodology 26-27 1.8 The timescale eras 27 1.8.1 The Belle époque 27-28 1.8.2 The inter-war era 28 1.8.3 The post war era 28 1.8.4 The 70s and 80s 28-29 1.8.5 The era of regeneration and green growth 29-30 1. 9 Devon as a case study 30 1.10 Food and tourism in Devon. 30-31 1.11 Conclusions 32 Chapter 2 The relationship between food and tourism 2.1 Introduction 33 2.1.1 The attraction of food in tourism 34 2.1.2 The evolving interest in food and tourism 34 2.1.3 Gastronomy in tourism 36 2.2 Tourism development in the United Kingdom. 38 2.3 Domains of hospitality 41-42 9 2.4 The interest of food in tourism 42-44 2.4.1 Food as a deterrent in tourism 44-45 2.5 The cultural and gastronomic legacy in tourism 45-48 2.6 The quest for local food authenticity and reality in the tourism experience 48=50 2.6.1 Authenticity, heritage food and tourism 50-52 2.6.2 The emergence of food tourism 52 2.6.3 Food tourist’s classifications and typologies 53-55 2.7 The interest in local food, food customs and traditions 55 2.7.1 Regional foods, tourism and the international dimension 55-56 2.7.2 Learning from the experience of others 57-58 2.8 Food and tourism in the trade press 58=61 2.9 The tourist souvenir, resort and resource 61-64 2.10 .The souvenir as a resource 64 2.11 The experience and servicescape of tourism 64-65 2.12 Conclusions 65-66 Chapter 3 The attraction of Devon 3.1 Introduction 67 3.2 The structure of the chapter 68 3.3 Tourism in Devon 69 3.3.1 The study of the culinary and tourism past in Devon 69-74 3.3.2 Nineteenth century tourism in Devon 74-77 3.4 Food and tourism in popular literature 77-81 3.5 Food, cookery and tourism 81-84 3.5.1 Restaurant cookery books 84 3.6 Food and tourism in trade publications 84 3.7 Tourism in Devon through the eras 85-86 3.7.1 The Belle époque 86-87 3.7.2 The inter-war period rail road and rambling 87-88 3.7.3 The train 88 10 3.7.4 Motoring holidays 89 3.7.5 Boating holidays 89 3.7.6 The tea shop and cafe 90-92 3.7.7 The end of an era 92 3.7.8 From austerity to the Development of Tourism Act 92-95 3.7.9 Post war developments 95-98 3.7.10 The era of global tourism and post modernism 98-99 3.7.11 Post millennium 99-100 3.8 Conclusions 100-101 11 Chapter 4 Methodology 4.1 Introduction 102-106 4.2 The aims of the research and its objectives 106-108 4.3 The timescale of the research 109-118 4.4 The geographical scope of the research 118-120 4.4.1 Devon as a case study 121 4.5 Data sources 121 4.5.1 Oral histories, recording life histories and narratives in tourism 122-126 4.5.2 Archival resources 126 4.5.3 Archival research 127-131 4.5.4 Secondary data 132 4.5.5 Field/case study materials 132 4.5.6 Contacts by letter 133 4.5.6.1 HRH The Prince of Wales 133 4.5.6.2 Marguerite Patten OBE 133 4.5.6.3 Barbara Follett MP 133 4.6 Contextual literature 134 4.7 The plan for interviews and data collection 135 4.7.1 The data collection process 135-138 4.8 The interview schedule 138 4.8.1 June 2008 138 4.8.1.1 Demand-tourists 138 4.8.1.2 Supply-producers 139 4.8.2 June/July 2008 Arrange and commence interviews 139