Studying the possibility of dehairing coarse sheep | ATI www.ati.pradec.eu

Peer-reviewed and Open access journal ATI - Applied Technologies & Innovations ISSN: 1804-4999 | www.academicpublishingplatforms.com Volume 9 | Issue 1 | 2013 |pp.32-36 The primary version of the journal is the on-line version DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.15208/ati.2013.7

Studying the possibility of dehairing coarse sheep wool

Murat Otynshiyev, Indira Jurinskaya Almaty Technological University, Almaty, Kazakhstan

Corresponding e-mail: [email protected] postal address: (ATU), Tole bi street, 100 (Baitursynov street corner), Almaty, kazakhstan

The article considers the development of complex technology of advanced processing of coarse and medium sheep wool that enables the production of new types of products such as downy fiber and from downy fiber various semi-finished and finished products. Investigations of technological processes of primary and advanced processing of untrue coarse and medium wool are carried out and wool sorting, wool washing, and obtaining downy fiber from wool on the basis of coarse wool fiber pulling on machines are the stages of processing the wool.

Keywords: Wool fiber, coarse and semi-coarse sheep wool, equipment, dehairing

Introduction

Traditionally coarse and semi-coarse sheep wool of meat-fat breeds of Kazakhstan are used only for production of nonwoven materials, felted boots, and technical coat cloth, which all together determine its low purchasing cost in the range of 40- 60 US cents for 1 kg. Processing of this kind of wool for manufacturing apparel products is impossible: this is due to the fact that products get very rough, sticking out coarse fibers irritate the skin in addition to inability of rough and dead hair being dyed. The objective of the research is to test a set of textile and carding machines on coarse and semi-coarse sheep wool to assess the possibilities of getting down fibers dehaired from coarse fiber types. Tests on the possibility of dehairing were conducted with the equipment of Qingdao Yuan Quan Textile Machinery Factory CO., LTD (China) by using wool samples from four breeds of fat-tailed sheep coarse (Kazakh coarse wool sheep - CGC, Saryarkinskaya - SKG, Edilbayevskaya - E, karakul breed - K ). As the result of conducted tests, it was found that the quality of the wool was not significantly different and thus, there was a possibility of applying a uniform technology of wool processing. The employed equipment included such tools as wool scouring five-boul line with the dryer of transporter type, hydraulic press for scoured wool, and carding dehairing machines of FN 288, FN 186, and 288S types. In the present experiment wool processing was performed once on the machine FN 288 and three times on the machines A186 and the Figure 1 presents the concepts of roller cards of existing dehairing machines FN 288 and top card A 186. The outcome received from processing initial wool comprises the basic part and the waste obtained after combing on the carding equipment. After each combing the content, thinness, and length of types of fibers available in the structure were

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Studying the possibility of dehairing coarse sheep wool | ATI www.ati.pradec.eu defined in initial wool and in a given kinds of products after the processing of the wool.

FIGURE 1. TECHNOLOGICAL SCHEME OF DEHAIRING MACHINES

Roller card machine FN 288 Flat card machine A186 Working pairs Tops

Swift

Main drum

Doffer fluff Take fluff Take Doffer up up

Coarse fiber Coarse fiber

In the recycling process, as it is shown in Table 1, the content of rough fibers in Technologies

the main processed part of wool decreased in all parties under consideration and and especially it occurred on the equipment FN 288 and on the first two passes on equipment А186. The results obtained after three passes were as such: the level of decrease of coarse fibers constituted 22.7% in case of Kazakh coarse wool sheep and for the following pass only 9.0% respectively and in case of wool of Saryarkinskoy breed 29.9% and 7.7%, and in case of Edilbaevskoy 28.8%, which gave contrary results in the next pass where the level of coarseness increased to 3.5% due to falling of Innovations Applied fluffs as the waste.

As shown in Table 1, the comfort factor increased significantly in processed fluff and constituted 85.3 - 91.7% depending on the breed of sheep, which indicates coarse fibers with a diameter of 30 mm at the level of 14.7 and 9.3% in its composition. The specified changes in structure of fiber types in the processed fluffs, respectively, are reflected positively in an average decrease of thinness of fibers that can be seen in Table 2. Thinness of processed wool in comparison with initial wool decreases by 31.0 % in case of Kazakh coarse wool sheep, by 33.5 % in case of Saryarkinskoy breeds, and by 33.2 % in case of Edilbaevskoy sheep after 4th clearing and constitutes 21.5, 23.7, and 23.2 microns respectively and thereby, correspond to the requirements shown for fluff fibers, which is 25 microns.

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TABLE 1.CHANGE IN THE MORPHOLOGICAL STRUCTURE OF WOOL AND THE COMFORT FACTOR INDEX (THE PROPORTION OF FIBERS WITH FINENESS OF UP TO 30 MM) IN FOUR-TIME CLEANING LINT FROM THE ROUGH FIBER TYPES

Equipment, Wool recycling Multiplicity of processing Main structure of wool Waste from recycling Content, % Comfort factor, % content, % Comfort factor, Fluff Coarse fiber Fluff Coarse fiber % 1,2, 3, 7 lots - wool of Kazakh coarse fiber sheep (taken in average) Original wool 51.1 48.9 48.9 - - - FN 288 once 60.2 39.8 83.8 33.6 66.4 74.7 А 186- 1 carding 73.4 26.6 86.8 20.4 79.6 78.1 А 186- 2 carding 73.8 26.2 89.5 46.1 53.9 82.1 А 186- 3 carding 83.6 17.2 91.7 46.3 53.7 81.1 4 and 5 lots - wool of Saryarkinskoy breed (Sarysyiskiy type), in average Original wool 51.4 48.6 34.6 FN 288 once 66.3 33.7 75.6 А 186- 1 carding 66.0 34.0 79.2 А 186- 2 carding 81.3 18.7 81.4 А 186- 3 carding 89.0 11.0 85.3 9 lot - wool of Edilbayevsky breed Original wool 52.8 47.2 38.5 - - - FN 288 once 56.0 44.0 80.8 46.9 53.1 76.6 А 186- 1 carding 65.9 34.1 82.7 21.4 78.6 81.7 А 186- 2 carding 81.6 18.4 89.0 45.7 54.3 79.8 А 186- 3 carding 78.1 21.9 87.2 71.1 28.9 86.2

TABLE 2. CHANGES IN THE PHYSICAL AND MECHANICAL PROPERTIES OF WOOL IN THE FOUR-FOLD CARDING

Equipment, Processed wool, in average By the type of fiber Multiplicity of Fluff Awn and transitional fiber processing Thinness Curvature, Thinness Length Curvature, Thinness Length, Curvature, micron in % Coefficient deg/mm micron Coefficient M, in % to deg/mm M, Coefficient mm deg/mm to of variation of variation mm origin micron of variation origin Cv,% Cv,% wool Cv,% wool 1,2, 3, 7 lot - wool of Kazakh coarse fiber sheep (taken in average) Origin wool 31.2 100.0 34.7 50.3 22.3 26.4 6.12 100.0 65.7 40.5 42.5 11.6 34.8 FN 288 once 24.2 77.6 44.6 62.2 21.6 28.6 5.40 88.2 80.4 39.9 35.4 8.8 36.5 А 186- 1 carding 23.1 74.0 39.6 64.4 21.6 29.8 4.95 80.9 76.8 38.3 43.0 6.9 37.2 А 186- 2 carding 22.3 71.5 35.8 68.0 20.9 27.1 4.61 75.3 75.3 37.1 44.8 5.8 39.8 А 186- 3 carding 21.5 69.0 32.4 70.9 20.9 27.6 4.43 72.4 77.9 35.9 41.2 5.4 38.2 4 and 5 lot - wool of Saryarkinskoy breed (Sarysyiskiy type), in average Origin wool 35.6 100.0 31.3 41.7 25.1 34.4 6.35 100.0 64.1 46.7 32.6 12.3 18.2 FN 288 once 27.2 76.4 43.4 52.5 23.7 28.2 5.53 87.1 67.3 47.0 30.9 9.2 22.3 А 186- 1 carding 24.4 68.5 36.9 59.5 22.0 26.1 4.92 77.4 73.8 38.6 42.6 7.8 36.9 А 186- 2 carding 23.9 67.1 36.1 63.3 22.2 25.8 4.76 75.0 74.5 36.3 38.9 7.3 37.3 А 186- 3 carding 23.7 66.5 34.4 61.1 23.0 30.9 4.68 73.7 65.2 38.8 37.6 6.9 30.6 9 lot - wool of Edilbayevsky breed Origin wool 34.7 100.0 42.8 36.8 25.7 41.1 5.78 100.0 44.8 44.7 38.1 10.6 27.8 FN 288 once 25.7 74.1 45.6 55.9 23.0 32.6 5.26 92.4 73.4 45.3 39.0 7.2 27.7 А 186- 1 carding 24.2 69.7 45.8 57.1 20.7 42.1 4.99 85.8 62.9 41.3 41.1 6.4 31.7 А 186- 2 carding 22.4 64.5 38.9 68.2 21.8 28.4 4.62 79.2 71.2 35.7 46.0 5.9 42.5 А 186- 3 carding 23.2 66.8 40.3 66.3 21.3 29.2 4.58 76.7 79.6 42.1 41.0 5.7 37.3

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Studying the possibility of dehairing coarse sheep wool | ATI www.ati.pradec.eu As it can be seen in Table 1, wool thinning mostly occurs at its processing on FN 288 equipment depending on breed of sheep by 7.0-9.0 microns, or 22.4 and 25.7 %, whereas for the subsequent three cleanings on the equipment A 186 it makes only 2.5 - 3.7 microns, or 7.3-8.6 %. Thus, wool thinning is reached by the average drop in thinness of both fluffs and guard fibers from 22.3-25.7 to 20.9-21.3 microns and from 40.5-46.7 to 35.9-38.8 microns respectively. At the processing the crimp of fibers contained in it improves (from 36.8-50.3 to 66.3-70.9 hailstones/mm, or on 80.2-40.9 %) and consequently, this contributes to the enhancement of its technological nature as raw material for . The deterioration of the technological properties of wool in processing apparently decreases the length of woolen fibers (Table 1): the Kazakh coarse wool sheep - from 6.12 to 4.43 cm, or 1.38 times as well as on equipment FN 288 - 1, 13 times, respectively, Sariarkinskaja breeds - from 6.35 to 4.68 cm, and 1.36 and 1.15 times, Edilbaevskaja sheep - from 5.78 to 4.58 cm, or 1.26, and 1.1 times. Coarse fiber types were subject to a more substantial shortening, which was related with technical process of wool dehairing on the equipment that occurred in sorting by fiber thinness. The fibers of an awn, which are available as part of fluffs, are captured by card fillet drum. But due to low flexibility of coarse fiber and large number sets only a small part of it is captured and the main part is set above the surface and is exposed to impact of knives and sticks. As a result of a small tenacity and bad capture of card fillet, the awn at blow is easily separated from a great bulk of fluffs.

As a result, the length of coarse fiber types during the four recycling processes decreased from 11.6 to 5.4 cm, or 2.1 times for one lot of Kazakh coarse wool sheep, Saryarkinsky breeds from 12.3 to 6.9 cm, or 1.8 times, Edilbaevskaja from 10.6 to 5.7 cm, or 1.9 times, and on the highest level this occurred on equipment FN 288 1.3, 1.4, and 1.5 times respectively. These findings indicate that a single comb of wool on roller card FN 288 and three-time comb on top card A 186 is Technologies

the optimal way for getting fluff, which can be used for producing wool tops and and .

TABLE 3. PHYSICAL AND MECHANICAL PROPERTIES OF FLUFFS, RESULTING FROM WOOL BY FOUR-FOLD REMOVAL OF COARSE FIBERS

Type of wool, breed Fluff Coarse fiber contained Innovations Applied Thinness Curvature, Length, mm in the fluff micron Coefficient Comfort deg/mm Length, of variation factor, % % mm Cv,% Experimental batch of wool Ordovaya (1,2,3,7 lots)- CCG 21.5 32.4 91.7 70.9 44.3 17.2 54 Ordovaya (4,5 партий)- SKG 23.7 34.4 85.3 61.1 46.8 11.0 69 Ordovaya (9 lot)- Е 23.2 40.3 87.2 66.3 45.8 21.9 57 Industrial lot of wool (LLP "Factory NSP-Taraz") Ordovaya (10 lot) 21.0 25.1 92.7 60.7 45.1 35.9 3.8 Karakulskaya (11 lot) 21.9 26.3 92.7 70.5 31.2 40.3 4.80

Despite shortening of fibers the length of fluff after forth clearing exceeds the level of 40 mm and thereby, corresponds for yarn manufacturing on hardware system of . The coarse fibers contained in its structure are strongly truncated and woven with down fibers and not allocated on length from the basic

© 2013 Prague Development Center - 35 - Studying the possibility of dehairing coarse sheep wool | ATI www.ati.pradec.eu thin types of fibers and thereby, in theoretical aspect, it should not be reflected negatively in quality of a yarn. Moreover, outshoot is expected in the course of production of tops and yarns from recycled fluff. The physical and mechanical properties are attributable to the fluff, which is produced by this technology of processing coarse wool, and these characteristics are listed in Table 3.Appearance of rather high content of coarse fibers (35.9-40.3 %) on industrial lot is caused by the fact that they are presented generally from thin transitional fibers and thereby, their raised contents are not reflected negatively in thinness of the made fluff. Despite the big content of coarse fibers, the fluff thinness on these two lots of wool makes 20.1-21.9 microns, which is lower than fluffs of the experimental batch that can be characterized by smaller level of the content of coarse fibers. The developed technology of receiving fluffs on the basis of deep processing of sheep coarse and semi-coarse wool leads to receiving of I-II sort downs for yarn of 21-23 and 23-24 microns from coarse and semi-coarse wool and receiving of downs as a filling for quilts with the content of coarse fibers to 40%.

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