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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Spain Cantabria & Asturias p505 Basque Santiago de Country, Compostela Navarra & & Galicia La Rioja p557 p444 Castilla Catalonia y León p337 p151 Aragón ^# p403 Barcelona p249 Madrid & #_Around p70 Toledo & Castilla- Extremadura La Mancha p604 Valencia & p215 Murcia p795 Seville & Andalucía's Granada & Hill Towns South Coast p632 Andalucía p719 Gregor Clark, Sally Davies, Duncan Garwood, Anthony Ham, Catherine Le Nevez, Isabella Noble, John Noble, Josephine Quintero, Brendan Sainsbury, Regis St Louis, Andy Symington PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Welcome to Spain . 6 MADRID & South Castilla–La Mancha . 228 Spain Map . .8 AROUND . 70 Consuegra . 228 Madrid . 70 Spain’s Top 18 . 10 Campo de Criptana . 229 San Lorenzo de Need to Know . 20 El Escorial . 146 Almagro . 230 First Time Spain . 22 Aranjuez . 147 Parque Nacional Tablas de Daimiel . 234 Chinchón . 148 What’s New . 24 Alcalá del Júcar . 234 Alcalá de Henares . 149 Belmonte . 235 If You Like . 25 Sierra de Guadarrama . 150 El Toboso . 235 Month by Month . 28 Buitrago & Sierra Pobre . 150 Parque Natural de las Itineraries . 33 Lagunas de Ruidera . .. 236 Off the CASTILLA Y LEÓN . 151 Sierra de Alcaraz . 237 Beaten Track . 38 Southwest Northeast Castilla y León . 152 Castilla–La Mancha . 238 Eat & Drink Like a Local . 40 Ávila . 152 Cuenca . 238 Salamanca . 157 Pastrana . .. 243 Outdoor Activities . 49 Ciudad Rodrigo . 162 Sigüenza . 244 Travel with Children . 61 Sierra de Francia . 164 Atienza . 246 Regions at a Glance . 64 Guijuelo . 166 Alarcón . 247 Sierra de Béjar . 167 Imón . 248 The Central Plateau . 168 Segovia . 168 BARCELONA . 249 Pedraza de la Sierra . 174 Sights . 254 Valladolid . 175 Activities . 294 Zamora . 181 Tours . 294 Palencia . 186 Festivals & Events . 295 Montaña Palentina . 188 Sleeping . .. 296 The Northwest . 189 Eating . 301 León . 189 Drinking & Nightlife . 317 Astorga . 194 Entertainment . 325 AITOR MUÑOZ MUÑOZ / 500PX © 500PX / MUÑOZ MUÑOZ AITOR Sahagún . 196 Shopping . 328 The East . 197 Burgos . 197 CATALONIA . 337 Ribera del Duero . 204 Costa Brava . 339 Soria . 209 Tossa de Mar . .. 339 Palafrugell & Around . 340 TOLEDO & CASTILLA– Girona . .. 350 LA MANCHA . 215 L’Estartit & Toledo . 217 the Illes Medes . 356 Talavera de la Reina . 227 L’Escala . 356 PARQUE NATURAL SIERRAS Oropesa . 228 DE CAZORLA P783 Castelló d’Empúries . 357 Contents Aínsa . 429 ESB PROFESSIONAL / SHUTTERSTOCK © SHUTTERSTOCK / PROFESSIONAL ESB Benasque . 430 Upper Benasque Valley & the Maladeta Massif . 432 Alquézar . .. 433 Somontano Wine Region . 436 Southern Aragón . 437 Daroca . 437 Laguna de Gallocanta . 438 Teruel . 438 Albarracín . 442 BASQUE COUNTRY, PLAZA DE ESPAÑA, SEVILLE P648 NAVARRA & LA RIOJA . .. 444 Cadaqués . 359 Sitges . 389 Basque Country . 446 Cap de Creus . 361 Penedès Wine Country . .. 392 Bilbao . 446 Figueres . 361 Tarragona . .394 San Sebastián . 463 Besalú . 364 Priorat & Montsant Oñati . 478 The Catalan Wine Regions . 399 Vitoria-Gasteiz . 479 Pyrenees . 365 Delta de l’Ebre . 399 Navarra . 483 Olot . 366 Tortosa . 401 Pamplona . .483 Parc Natural de la Navarran Pyrenees . 488 Zona Volcànica de la Garrotxa . .. 367 ARAGÓN . 403 La Rioja . 496 Ripoll . 371 Zaragoza . 405 Logroño . 497 Vall de Núria & Central Aragón . 412 San Millán de Cogolla . 500 Ribes de Freser . 371 Fuendetodos . 412 Santo Domingo de Cerdanya . 373 Tarazona . 412 la Calzada . 500 La Seu d’Urgell . 376 The Aragón Pyrenees . 414 La Rioja Wine Region . 501 Pallars Sobirà . 377 Huesca . 414 Parc Nacional Riglos & Around . 416 CANTABRIA & d’Aigüestortes i Estany de Sos del Rey Católico . 416 ASTURIAS . 505 Sant Maurici & Around . 378 Valles de Hecho & Ansó . .418 Cantabria . 507 Val d’Aran . 382 Santa Cruz de la Serós . 421 Santander . 507 Central Catalonia . 385 Jaca . 422 Eastern Cantabria . 513 Vic . 385 Valle del Aragón . 423 Southern Cantabria . 516 Montserrat . .386 Valle de Tena . 424 Western Cantabria . 519 Cardona . 387 Parque Nacional de Ordesa Asturias . 526 Lleida . 388 y Monte Perdido . 425 Oviedo . 526 Costa Daurada Torla . 427 & Around . 389 Gijón . 532 Valle de Bujaruelo . 428 East Coast Asturias . 534 ON THE ROAD West Coast Asturias . 538 Inland Western © SHUTTERSTOCK / MAXX-STUDIO Asturias . 541 Picos de Europa . 546 Western Picos . 547 Central Picos . 551 Eastern Picos . 553 SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA & GALICIA . 557 ALBARRACÍN, ARAGÓN Santiago de P442 Compostela . 559 Costa da Morte . 568 Eastern Galicia . 594 Carmona . 659 Fisterra & Around . .. 569 Ourense . 594 Écija . 660 Lires & Around . 571 Ribadavia & the Ribeiro Huelva Province . 661 Muxía & Around . 571 Wine Region . 596 Huelva . 662 Camariñas to Camelle: Ribeira Sacra . 598 the Ruta do Litoral . 572 Lugares Lugo . 600 Colombinos . 663 Laxe & Around . 573 Parque Nacional Rías Altas . 573 EXTREMADURA . 604 de Doñana . 664 A Coruña . 573 El Rocío . 665 Cáceres . 605 Betanzos . 577 Minas de Riotinto . .. 667 Casar de Cáceres . 610 Pontedeume . 578 Aracena & Around . 667 Alcántara . 610 Parque Natural Cádiz Province . 669 Fragas do Eume . 578 Trujillo . 611 Cádiz . .669 Cedeira & Around . .. 579 Guadalupe . 615 El Puerto de Cabo Ortegal & Around . 579 Plasencia . 616 Santa María . 676 Bares Peninsula . 581 La Vera . 618 Sanlúcar de Viveiro . 581 Valle del Ambroz . 619 Barrameda . 679 Ribadeo . 582 Parque Nacional Jerez de la Frontera . 681 de Monfragüe . 621 Rías Baixas . 583 Arcos de la Frontera . 687 Mérida . 622 Ría de Arousa . 583 Parque Natural Sierra Olivenza . 626 de Grazalema & Pontevedra . 585 Zafra . 627 Around . 690 Ría de Pontevedra . 588 Badajoz . 630 Ronda . 693 Ría de Vigo . 589 Southern Costa Vigo . .. 589 de la Luz . 697 Southwest Galicia . 592 SEVILLE & Tarifa . .700 ANDALUCÍA’S Baiona . 592 Córdoba Province . 704 HILL TOWNS . 632 A Guarda . 593 Córdoba . 704 Tui . 594 Seville . 633 Parque Natural Sierras Sevilla Province . 659 Subbéticas . 717 Contents UNDERSTAND GRANADA & Valencia Spain Today . 848 SOUTH COAST Province . 815 History . 850 ANDALUCÍA . 719 La Albufera . 815 Art & Architecture . 869 Granada . 722 Sagunto . 815 Granada Province . 742 Gandia . 816 People & Culture . 875 Sierra Nevada . 742 Requena . 817 Las Alpujarras . 743 Xàtiva . 817 Costa Tropical . 750 Castellón SURVIVAL Málaga Province . 751 Province . 818 GUIDE Málaga . 751 Castellón . 818 Benicàssim . 819 Costa del Sol . .. 760 Directory A–Z . 880 Peñíscola . 820 Gibraltar . 769 El Maestrazgo . 820 Transport . 893 Jaén Province . 774 Jaén . 774 Alicante Language . 902 Province . 823 Baeza . 776 Index . .. 913 Alicante . 823 Úbeda . .. 779 Dénia . 827 Map Legend . 926 Cazorla . 781 Xàbia . .828 Parque Natural Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Benidorm . 830 Las Villas . 783 Elche . 831 Almería Province . 785 Villena . .833 Almería . 785 Orihuela . 834 Desierto de Tabernas . 789 Murcia Province . 835 Parque Natural de Murcia . 835 Cabo de Gata-Níjar . 790 Cartagena . 838 Mojácar . 793 Costa Cálida . 841 Lorca . 842 VALENCIA & The Balearics . 844 MURCIA . 795 Parque Regional Valencia . 797 de Sierra Espuña . 846 SPECIAL FEATURES 368 369 Locals’ Madrid . .. 137 Villages of SHUTTERSTOCK © GLENN NEVIS / © 500PX DANIMART / Aragón . 435 In Search of Valle de Ordesa in Don Quijote . 232 Basque Culture . 474 1. SHUTTERSTOCK © MICHAL SZYMANSKI / the Parque Nacional de Ordesa y Monte Perdido, Aragón 2. Tuc des Monges, Catalonia 3. Hikers walking the The Genius of Gaudí . 284 Surprises of GR11, Catalonia Hiking in the Pyrenees the North . 524 The Pyrenees aren’t Europe’s highest Many people elect to walk it in a series of cross the Aigüestortes park in one day ever, since this is Europe (rather than mountains, but they are certainly among shorter hops. Well-frequented sections run along the Sant Maurici–Boí traverse, a Alaska), you’re never too far from a moun- its most formidable. The craggy behemoths along Aragón’s Valle de Ordesa and past 22km sequence of lakes, waterfalls, verdant tain village with basic shops, bars and stretch from the Bay of Biscay to the Catalonia’s Estany de Sant Maurici. valleys, rocky peaks and inspiring vistas. accommodation. Spain’s Best Mediterranean like a giant wall, with barely You’ll need several days to complete the Up in the mountains are a variety of a low-level pass to break them. Spectacular Hiking Bases 55km Carros de Foc (www.carrosdefoc. refugios (refugis in Catalan) – some staffed for many reasons, not least the abundance You don’t have to embark on a marathon com) circuit that links all nine of the and serving meals, others providing shel- march to enjoy the best of the Spanish of powerful waterfalls, they act like a park’s refugios. ter only. At holiday times staffed refugios Pyrenees. There are countless superb siren’s call for hikers. Other fine hiking bases with good ac- often fill up, so book ahead. For refugio day walks and these can often be strung commodation and easy access to good trail bookings in Aragón, visit www.alber- Beaches . 343 Wild Spain . 542 together into routes of several days with networks include Hecho (p418) and Be- guesyrefugiosdearagon.com. For refugis in The GR11 the aid of village accommodation, moun- nasque (p430) in Aragón, and Olot (p366) Catalonia, see the Federació d’Entitats Anyone who hikes in the Spanish Pyrenees tain refugios (refuges), or a tent. The two in Catalonia, which has good, family- Excursionistes da Catalunya (FEEC; will get on to first-name terms with Gran national parks, Ordesa y Monte Perdido friendly walking terrain. www.feec.cat) and the Centre Excursioni- Recorrido 11 (GR11), the long-distance (p425) in Aragón and Aigüestortes i Estany sta de Catalunya (CEC; http://cec.cat). footpath that.