©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Spain

Cantabria & Asturias p505 Basque Santiago de Country, Compostela Navarra & & La Rioja p557 p444 Castilla y León p337 p151 Aragón ^# p403 p249 & _#Around p70

Toledo & Castilla- Extremadura La Mancha p604 Valencia & p215 Murcia p795

Seville & Andalucía's & Hill Towns South Coast p632 Andalucía p719

Gregor Clark, Sally Davies, Duncan Garwood, Anthony Ham, Catherine Le Nevez, Isabella Noble, John Noble, Josephine Quintero, Brendan Sainsbury, Regis St Louis, Andy Symington PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to ...... 6 MADRID & South Castilla–La Mancha. . . 228 Spain Map ...... 8 AROUND ...... 70 Consuegra...... 228 Madrid...... 70 Spain’s Top 18...... 10 Campo de Criptana. . . . . 229 San Lorenzo de Need to Know...... 20 ...... 146 Almagro...... 230 First Time Spain. . . . . 22 ...... 147 Parque Nacional Tablas de Daimiel...... 234 Chinchón...... 148 What’s New...... 24 Alcalá del Júcar ...... 234 Alcalá de Henares . . . . . 149 Belmonte...... 235 If You Like ...... 25 Sierra de Guadarrama. . . 150 El Toboso...... 235 Month by Month. . . . . 28 Buitrago & Sierra Pobre. . . 150 Parque Natural de las Itineraries ...... 33 Lagunas de Ruidera. . . .. 236 Off the CASTILLA Y LEÓN. . . . 151 Sierra de Alcaraz...... 237 Beaten Track...... 38 Southwest Northeast Castilla y León . . . . . 152 Castilla–La Mancha. . . 238 Eat & Drink Like a Local...... 40 Ávila...... 152 Cuenca...... 238 ...... 157 Pastrana...... 243 Outdoor Activities. . . . 49 Ciudad Rodrigo...... 162 Sigüenza ...... 244 Travel with Children. . . . . 61 Sierra de Francia . . . . . 164 Atienza...... 246 Regions at a Glance. . . . 64 Guijuelo...... 166 Alarcón...... 247 Sierra de Béjar...... 167 Imón...... 248 The Central Plateau. . . 168 ...... 168 BARCELONA. . . . . 249 Pedraza de la Sierra . . . . 174 Sights...... 254 Valladolid...... 175 Activities...... 294 Zamora...... 181 Tours...... 294 Palencia...... 186 Festivals & Events . . . . . 295 Montaña Palentina. . . . . 188 Sleeping...... 296 The Northwest . . . . . 189 Eating...... 301 León...... 189 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . 317 Astorga...... 194 Entertainment ...... 325

AITORMUÑOZ MUÑOZ / 500PX © Sahagún...... 196 Shopping...... 328 The East...... 197 Burgos...... 197 CATALONIA. . . . . 337 Ribera del Duero ...... 204 Costa Brava...... 339 Soria...... 209 Tossa de Mar...... 339 Palafrugell & Around. . . . 340 TOLEDO & CASTILLA– Girona...... 350 LA MANCHA. . . . . 215 L’Estartit & Toledo...... 217 the Illes Medes...... 356 Talavera de la Reina. . . 227 L’Escala ...... 356 PARQUE NATURAL SIERRAS Oropesa...... 228 DE CAZORLA P783 Castelló d’Empúries . . . . 357 Contents

Aínsa...... 429

ESBPROFESSIONAL /SHUTTERSTOCK © Benasque...... 430 Upper Benasque Valley & the Maladeta Massif. . . . 432 Alquézar...... 433 Somontano Wine Region ...... 436 Southern Aragón . . . . 437 Daroca...... 437 Laguna de Gallocanta. . . . 438 Teruel...... 438 Albarracín ...... 442

BASQUE COUNTRY, PLAZA DE ESPAÑA, P648 NAVARRA & LA RIOJA ...... 444 Cadaqués...... 359 Sitges...... 389 Basque Country. . . . . 446 Cap de Creus ...... 361 Penedès Wine Country. . .. 392 Bilbao...... 446 Figueres...... 361 ...... 394 San Sebastián...... 463 Besalú ...... 364 Priorat & Montsant Oñati...... 478 The Catalan Wine Regions ...... 399 Vitoria-Gasteiz...... 479 ...... 365 Delta de l’Ebre ...... 399 Navarra...... 483 Olot...... 366 Tortosa...... 401 Pamplona ...... 483 Parc Natural de la Navarran Pyrenees . . . . . 488 Zona Volcànica de la Garrotxa...... 367 ARAGÓN ...... 403 La Rioja ...... 496 Ripoll ...... 371 Zaragoza ...... 405 Logroño...... 497 Vall de Núria & Central Aragón. . . . . 412 San Millán de Cogolla. . . . 500 Ribes de Freser...... 371 Fuendetodos...... 412 Santo Domingo de Cerdanya...... 373 Tarazona ...... 412 la Calzada...... 500 La Seu d’Urgell...... 376 The Aragón Pyrenees. . . . 414 La Rioja Wine Region. . . . 501 Pallars Sobirà...... 377 Huesca...... 414 Parc Nacional Riglos & Around...... 416 & d’Aigüestortes i Estany de Sos del Rey Católico. . . . 416 ASTURIAS...... 505 Sant Maurici & Around. . . 378 Valles de Hecho & Ansó . . .418 Cantabria...... 507 Val d’Aran...... 382 Santa Cruz de la Serós. . . . 421 Santander...... 507 Central Catalonia. . . . 385 Jaca ...... 422 Eastern Cantabria. . . . . 513 Vic...... 385 Valle del Aragón...... 423 Southern Cantabria. . . . 516 Montserrat ...... 386 Valle de Tena...... 424 Western Cantabria. . . . . 519 Cardona...... 387 Parque Nacional de Ordesa Asturias...... 526 Lleida...... 388 y Monte Perdido...... 425 ...... 526 Costa Daurada Torla...... 427 & Around...... 389 Gijón...... 532 Valle de Bujaruelo . . . . . 428 East Coast Asturias. . . . . 534 ON THE ROAD

West Coast Asturias . . . . 538

Inland Western MAXX-STUDIO /SHUTTERSTOCK © Asturias...... 541 Picos de Europa. . . . . 546 Western Picos...... 547 Central Picos...... 551 Eastern Picos...... 553

SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA & GALICIA...... 557 ALBARRACÍN, ARAGÓN Santiago de P442 Compostela...... 559 Costa da Morte...... 568 Eastern Galicia...... 594 Carmona...... 659 & Around...... 569 Ourense...... 594 Écija ...... 660 Lires & Around...... 571 Ribadavia & the Ribeiro Huelva Province. . . . . 661 Muxía & Around...... 571 Wine Region ...... 596 Huelva ...... 662 Camariñas to Camelle: Ribeira Sacra...... 598 the Ruta do Litoral. . . . . 572 Lugares Lugo...... 600 Colombinos...... 663 Laxe & Around ...... 573 Parque Nacional Rías Altas...... 573 EXTREMADURA. . . . 604 de Doñana...... 664 A Coruña...... 573 El Rocío ...... 665 Cáceres...... 605 ...... 577 Minas de Riotinto...... 667 Casar de Cáceres. . . . . 610 ...... 578 Aracena & Around. . . . . 667 Alcántara...... 610 Parque Natural Cádiz Province ...... 669 Fragas do Eume...... 578 Trujillo ...... 611 Cádiz ...... 669 & Around...... 579 Guadalupe...... 615 El Puerto de Cabo Ortegal & Around. . . 579 Plasencia...... 616 Santa María...... 676 Bares Peninsula...... 581 La Vera...... 618 Sanlúcar de Viveiro ...... 581 Valle del Ambroz...... 619 Barrameda ...... 679 Ribadeo...... 582 Parque Nacional Jerez de la Frontera. . . . 681 de Monfragüe...... 621 Rías Baixas...... 583 Arcos de la Frontera . . . . 687 Mérida ...... 622 Ría de Arousa...... 583 Parque Natural Sierra Olivenza...... 626 de Grazalema & Pontevedra ...... 585 Zafra...... 627 Around...... 690 Ría de Pontevedra. . . . . 588 Badajoz ...... 630 Ronda...... 693 Ría de Vigo ...... 589 Southern Costa Vigo...... 589 de la Luz ...... 697 Southwest Galicia . . . . 592 SEVILLE & Tarifa ...... 700 ANDALUCÍA’S Baiona ...... 592 Córdoba Province. . . . 704 HILL TOWNS. . . . . 632 A Guarda...... 593 Córdoba...... 704 Tui...... 594 Seville...... 633 Parque Natural Sierras Sevilla Province . . . . . 659 Subbéticas ...... 717 Contents

UNDERSTAND

GRANADA & Valencia Spain Today...... 848 SOUTH COAST Province...... 815 History...... 850 ANDALUCÍA...... 719 La Albufera ...... 815 Art & Architecture. . . . 869 Granada...... 722 Sagunto...... 815 Granada Province. . . . 742 Gandia...... 816 People & Culture . . . . 875 Sierra Nevada...... 742 Requena...... 817 Las Alpujarras...... 743 Xàtiva...... 817 Costa Tropical...... 750 Castellón SURVIVAL Málaga Province. . . . . 751 Province...... 818 GUIDE Málaga...... 751 Castellón...... 818 Benicàssim...... 819 Costa del Sol...... 760 Directory A–Z...... 880 Peñíscola...... 820 Gibraltar...... 769 El Maestrazgo...... 820 Transport...... 893 Jaén Province...... 774 Jaén...... 774 Language...... 902 Province...... 823 Baeza...... 776 Index...... 913 Alicante...... 823 Úbeda...... 779 Dénia ...... 827 Map Legend...... 926 Cazorla...... 781 Xàbia ...... 828 Parque Natural Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Benidorm...... 830 Las Villas...... 783 Elche...... 831 Almería Province . . . . 785 ...... 833 Almería...... 785 Orihuela...... 834 Desierto de Tabernas . . . . 789 Murcia Province. . . . . 835 Parque Natural de Murcia ...... 835 Cabo de Gata-Níjar . . . . . 790 Cartagena...... 838 Mojácar ...... 793 Costa Cálida...... 841 Lorca...... 842 VALENCIA & The Balearics ...... 844 MURCIA...... 795 Parque Regional Valencia...... 797 de Sierra Espuña...... 846

SPECIAL FEATURES

368 369

Locals’ Madrid...... 137 Villages of GLENNNEVIS /SHUTTERSTOCK © DANIMART / 500PX © Aragón...... 435 In Search of

Valle de Ordesa in Don Quijote...... 232 Basque Culture. . . . . 474 1. MICHALSZYMANSKI /SHUTTERSTOCK © the Parque Nacional de Ordesa y Monte Perdido, Aragón 2. Tuc des Monges, Catalonia 3. Hikers walking the The Genius of Gaudí. . . 284 Surprises of GR11, Catalonia

Hiking in the Pyrenees the North...... 524 The Pyrenees aren’t Europe’s highest Many people elect to walk it in a series of cross the Aigüestortes park in one day ever, since this is Europe (rather than mountains, but they are certainly among shorter hops. Well-frequented sections run along the Sant Maurici–Boí traverse, a Alaska), you’re never too far from a moun- its most formidable. The craggy behemoths along Aragón’s Valle de Ordesa and past 22km sequence of lakes, waterfalls, verdant tain village with basic shops, bars and stretch from the Bay of Biscay to the Catalonia’s Estany de Sant Maurici. valleys, rocky peaks and inspiring vistas. accommodation. Spain’s Best Mediterranean like a giant wall, with barely You’ll need several days to complete the Up in the mountains are a variety of a low-level pass to break them. Spectacular Hiking Bases 55km Carros de Foc (www.carrosdefoc. refugios (refugis in Catalan) – some staffed for many reasons, not least the abundance You don’t have to embark on a marathon com) circuit that links all nine of the and serving meals, others providing shel- march to enjoy the best of the Spanish of powerful waterfalls, they act like a park’s refugios. ter only. At holiday times staffed refugios Pyrenees. There are countless superb siren’s call for hikers. Other fine hiking bases with good ac- often fill up, so book ahead. For refugio day walks and these can often be strung commodation and easy access to good trail bookings in Aragón, visit www.alber- Beaches...... 343 Wild Spain...... 542 together into routes of several days with networks include Hecho (p418) and Be- guesyrefugiosdearagon.com. For refugis in The GR11 the aid of village accommodation, moun- nasque (p430) in Aragón, and Olot (p366) Catalonia, see the Federació d’Entitats Anyone who hikes in the Spanish Pyrenees tain refugios (refuges), or a tent. The two in Catalonia, which has good, family- Excursionistes da Catalunya (FEEC; will get on to first-name terms with Gran national parks, Ordesa y Monte Perdido friendly walking terrain. www.feec.cat) and the Centre Excursioni- Recorrido 11 (GR11), the long-distance (p425) in Aragón and Aigüestortes i Estany sta de Catalunya (CEC; http://cec.cat). footpath that runs along the range’s en- de Sant Maurici (p378) in Catalonia, have Practicalities Editorial Alpina (www.editorialalpina. tire Spanish flank from Hondarribia on particularly high concentrations of spec- June to October are generally the best com) and Prames (www.prames.com) the Bay of Biscay to Cap de Creus on the tacular trails. Wonderful full-day outings months for hiking. There may be snow on produce excellent maps for walkers. The Costa Brava. Approximately 820km long in the former park include the high-level passes and high valleys until mid-June or definitive English-language guide to the and with a cumulative elevation gain Faja de Pelay path (to an exuberant wa- from October, and the weather is never GR11 is the excellent The GR11 Trail by Hiking in the Legacy equivalent to five Mt Everests, it takes terfall) and the Balcón de Pineta route to predictable, so walkers should always be Brian Johnson (2014). Pyrenees ...... 368 of the Moors...... 748 around 45 days even without rest days. a superb lookout point. Fit walkers can prepared for extreme conditions. How- ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 33

Itineraries

Parc Nacional d'Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici ÷# ANDORRA

Taüll #•

É CÉ adaqués É

É Figueres #• É #•

Castell de É Puból #•

É Girona #• É Tamariu #• Calella de Palafrugell#•

É

#•Tossa de Mar

É É M E D I T E R R A N E A N S E A

#• Barcelona

1 WEEK Barcelona & Around

A lifetime in Barcelona may not be enough, filled as it is with so many intensely wonder- ful experiences. But drag yourself away, and you’ll soon discover that the wider Catalonia region is a brilliant place to explore. You’ll need a minimum of two days in Barcelona to soak up Gaudí, taste the city’s culinary excellence and wander its old town. When you can tear yourself away, rent a car and head north, passing through Tossa de Mar and its castle-backed bay, then Calella de Palafrugell and Tamariu, two beautifully sited coastal villages, before heading inland to pass the night in wonderful Girona. The next day is all about Salvador Dalí, from his fantasy castle Castell de Puból to his extraordinary theatre-museum in Figueres, and then his one-time home, the lovely seaside village of Cadaqués. The next morning leave the Mediterranean behind and drive west in the shadow of the Pyrenees. Your reward for the long drive is a couple of nights in Taüll, gateway to the magnificent Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici. A loop south via Lleida then east has you back in Barcelona by mid-afternoon on your final day. 34

Bay of Biscay

É FRANCE #• É #•

Santiago de É San É #• É #£ Bilbao ANDORRA Compostela Sebastián É #• León #£ É

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN #£

É #• É Segovia #£ Barcelona

AT L A N T I C Salamanca #• #• É

O C E A N É #£ É

#_ MADRID #£ É Cuenca

#• PORTUGAL É

Cáceres #• #£ É Toledo #• #• Trujillo #• Valencia It

i nerar #£

#•Mérida

É É #£ É É

i es #• Córdoba É #£ Seville #• Granada M E D I T E R R A N E A N #• S E A É #• Las Alpujarras

1 MONTH Grand Spanish Tour

If you have a month to give, Spain will reward you with enough memories to last a lifetime. Begin in Barcelona, that singular city of style and energy that captivates all who visit. Count on three days, then catch the high-speed train to Madrid, a city that takes some visitors a little longer to fall in love with, but it will only take a couple of days to fall under its spell of high (fantastic art galleries) and low (brilliant hedonistic nightlife) culture. We recommend that you spend an extra two days here, using the capital as a base for day trips to Segovia and Toledo. Catch another train, this time heading for Salamanca, that plateresque jewel of Castilla y León. After a night in Salamanca, travel north by train to León to stay overnight and see the extraordinary stained-glass win- dows of its cathedral, and then continue on to Bilbao, home of the Museo Guggenheim Bilbao and so much that is good about Basque culture. Spend a night here, followed by another couple in splendid San Sebastián. A couple of days’ drive on the Cantabrian, Asturian and Galician coasts will take you along Spain’s most dramatic shoreline en route to , where a couple of nights is a minimum to soak up this sacred city. Wherever you travel in the north, from San Sebastián to Santiago, make food a centrepiece of your visit. Catch the train back to Madrid, then take a high-speed train to Córdoba for two nights and Seville for two nights. While you’re in the area, detour north by bus or train to the Roman ruins of Mérida for a night, the fabulous old city of Cáceres for another night and medieval Trujillo for a third night. Return to Seville and make immediately for Granada; plan on two nights. Add an extra couple of nights and a rental car and you can visit the lovely villages of Las Alpujarras. Keep the car (or catch the train) and travel from Granada to Valencia to spend a couple of days enjoying its architecture, and irresistible energy. You’ve just enough time to catch the high-speed train to cliff-top Cuenca for a night on your way back to Madrid at journey’s end. 35

Bay of Biscay Spain Spain FRANCE Spain Spain Spain Isla de Tabarca MEDITERRANEAN SEA TRIP YOUR PLAN

PORTUGAL Mar Barcelona Menor É #• Seville #• Golfo de

MADRID

É Granada Mazarrón #£ Antequera É

#£ Arcos de la #• MEDITERR#_ANEAN É

É #• #• SEA #£ Frontera É É Jerez #• #• #• Las #• #• de la Ronda Alpujarras

É #• #£ É Málaga Valencia Frontera #• It

Vejer de la i nerar

#• Frontera É #• Córdoba Tarifa MEDITERRANEAN #• SEA Granada Seville É #• i es

MEDITERRANEAN SEA

MOROCCO MOROCCO

Andalucian 10 2 Essential Spain DAYS Adventure WEEKS

There’s more to Andalucía than the If you want to understand why many visi- monument-rich cities, although these are tors fall in love with Spain and never want not to be missed. This route takes you to leave, look no further than its vibrant, through three iconic cities and some of the passionate, extraordinarily beautiful cities. region’s most beautiful villages. Begin in This itinerary takes you through the best Málaga, whose airport receives flights from Spain has to offer. almost every conceivable corner of Europe. So many Spanish trails begin in It has enough attractions to keep you oc- Barce- , Spain’s second-biggest city and one cupied for one very full day. No Andalucian lona of the coolest places on earth. Explore the itinerary is complete without at least a cou- architecture and sample the food, before ple of nights in peerless Granada with its catching the train down the coast to astonishing , gilded Capilla Real Va- for a dose of paella, nightlife and the and medieval Muslim quarter of Albayzín. lencia 21st-century wonders of the Ciudad de las Rent a car and make for the other-worldly Artes y las Ciencias. A fast train whisks you valleys of Las Alpujarras with their fine inland to the capital, mighty , for mountain scenery and North African–style Madrid the irresistible street energy, the pretty pla- villages. If you’ve kept the car, head west for zas and one of the richest concentrations of three days along quiet back roads to some art museums on the planet. Yet another fast of Andalucía’s most spectacular villages and train takes you deep into Andalucía, with towns: Mudéjar Antequera, spectacular Córdoba your entry point into this wonder- Ronda, whitewashed Tarifa, beguiling ful corner of Spain; the most obvious high- Vejer de la Frontera, and Arcos de la light is Córdoba’s 8th-century Mezquita. Frontera, one of Andalucía’s most glorious From Córdoba it’s a short hop to fabulous pueblos blancos (white villages). With three . But we’ve saved the best until last: days left, leave the car and spend a night in Seville Granada boasts the extraordinary Alham- Jerez de la Frontera, allowing time to visit bra, its soulful alter ego the Albayzín, and its sherry bodegas, then catch a train north an eating and drinking scene that embraces to flamenco-rich Seville, which is, for many, Spanish culinary culture in all its variety. the essence of Andalucía. 36

Bay of Biscay

FRANCE

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Bay of Biscay León #£ #• Sos del Rey Burgos #•

#• Católico Cabo É Ortegal É É #• É #• Santillana

Covarrubias Ribadesella San É

É #• del Mar #£ #• #• #• É Sebastián A Coruña #•#• #•

Santo Domingo Zaragoza #• #• #• Oviedo #÷ #• #£ É Altamira de Silos Costa Santiago de Parque Bilbao Salamanca da Nacional de los

It Compostela #• #• Morte Picos de Europa

#• Segovia Daroca i nerar É É

#• É Ávila #_ MADRID #• #• Albarracín Teruel i es

PORTUGAL

2 10 WEEKS Castilla & Aragón DAYS Northern Spain

The Spanish interior may not fit the stereo- Spain’s Mediterranean Coast may get the type of sun, sand and sangría, but we love crowds, but the country’s northern coast- it all the more for that. This route takes in line from San Sebastián to Santiago is one a stirring mix of lesser-known cities and of the most spectacular in Europe. stunning villages. There is no finer introduction to the From Madrid, head to some of the north of the country than San Sebastián, loveliest towns of the Spanish heartland: with its dramatic setting and fabulous Segovia, with its Disney-esque castle and food. Two nights is a minimum. West of , walled Ávila and vi- San Sebastián by train, Bilbao is best brant Salamanca will occupy around four known as home to the showpiece Museo days of your time with short train rides Guggenheim Bilbao and warrants at least a connecting the three. Trains also connect night, preferably two. To make the most of you to León and Burgos, home to two the rest of the coast, you’ll need a car. Can- of Spain’s most extraordinary churches. tabria’s cobblestone Santillana del Mar, Spend at least a day in each. An extra the rock art at Altamira and the village of night in Burgos will allow you to take a Ribadesella will fill one day, with another day trip to the medieval villages of Co- taken up by the steep valleys of the Picos varrubias and Santo Domingo de Silos. de Europa. After a third night in irresist- Make for Zaragoza, one of Spain’s most ible Oviedo, tackle Galicia’s coastline, one vibrant cities, with a wealth of monuments of Spain’s great natural wonders, punctu- and great tapas – two days is a must. Rent ated with secluded fishing villages and a car and head for the hills where Sos del stunning cliffs. Don’t miss Cabo Ortegal, Rey Católico looks for all the world like a dynamic A Coruña and the Costa da Tuscan hill town. Drive south for an over- Morte. For the last two nights, linger in night stop in dramatic Daroca, then on to Santiago de Compostela, a thoroughly Teruel, filled with Mudéjar gems. Finish Galician city, a place of pilgrim footfalls, your journey in Albarracín, one of Spain’s fine regional cuisine and a cathedral of most spectacular villages. rare power. 37

•# Plasencia

FRANCE PORTUGAL É

Navarran •# Pyrenees Garrovillas Pamplona É •#

•# Trujillo TRIP YOUR PLAN Laguardia •# É É É Logroño•#Ujué Cáceres •# •#

•# •#

Santo •# •# É É Guadalupe •# Olite É Domingo de

San Millán The Cistercian la Calzada É de Cogolla Route

•# É •#

Zaragoza •# Mérida É

Tarragona É •# É

Delta de l'Ebre •# It Zafra •# i nerar

É

É •# Valencia i es

•#Seville

Mediterranean to 2 10 Extreme West WEEKS Mountains DAYS

This journey takes you from the shores Extremadura is one of Spain’s least known of the Mediterranean to the deep valleys corners, which is all the more reason to visit. of the Pyrenees. You’ll need a car to cover Begin with a night in Extremadura’s this in two weeks. Your reward is a chance north, in Plasencia, which is jammed with to visit some of northwestern Spain’s notable buildings, churches and convents. lesser-known jewels. Begin in , Valencia From Plasencia, catch the bus or train to that most appealing of Mediterranean cit- Cáceres, whose Ciudad Monumental is ies, then drive northeast, pausing in the one of the finest surviving medieval cores flamingo-rich en route to Delta de l’Ebre in any Spanish city. After two nights here, , one of Catalonia’s most under- Tarragona including a half-day excursion to charming rated destinations, with its fabulous Roman Garrovillas, regular buses take an hour ruins. From Tarragona, head inland along to nearby Trujillo, a smaller but equally the , then cut through Cistercian Route enchanting relic of the Middle Ages. Spend Aragón to vibrant and historic . Zaragoza two nights here: one to explore the warren After a couple of days in the Aragonese of cobbled lanes, and another to rent a car capital, and six days after leaving Valencia, for a day trip to the charming hill town pause overnight in the engaging provincial and pilgrims’ destination of Guadalupe. capital of . Continue west through Logroño From Trujillo it’s just over an hour by bus the fine monastery towns of Santo Do- south to Mérida, but the journey spans the and mingo de la Calzada San Millán de centuries: Mérida boasts some of Spain’s and then on into La Rioja, Spain’s Cogolla most impressive Roman ruins, and you’ll premier wine-producing region – Laguar- need at least two nights here to take it all is a wonderful base. Head out into the dia in. Further south again by bus across the eastern reaches of Navarra, for the beguil- plains lies whitewashed Zafra, a precur- ing fortress towns of and , then Olite Ujué sor to Andalucía in spirit, architecture and on to pretty . From here, climb Pamplona geography. After a night in Zafra, all roads into the Navarran Pyrenees, at their lead to magical Seville, one of Andalucía’s most beautiful in the Valle del Baztán and (and Spain’s) most captivating cities. Valle del Roncal. 38 Off the Beaten Track: Spain

RÍAS ALTAS ZAMORA & AROUND

Galicia's northern coast is a Zamora is a little-visited Romanesque succession of plunging cliffs, treasure. Not far away are the PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN awe-inspiring vistas, wild surf stunning medieval village of Puebla beaches, quiet cove beaches, long, RÍAS de Sanabria and the pretty Sierra de snaking inlets and quaint fishing ALTAS la Culebra, Europe's best wolf- villages. (p573) spotting area. (p181)

e •# Gijón rt •# Santander o A Coruña •# M Oviedo •# a d Parque Nacional de a •#

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK Lugo t •# los Picos de Europa A T L A N T I C s o Santiago de C ra Can O C E A N Compostela Cordille tábrica •# León •# Vigo •# Ourense Burgos •#

•# Benavente Aranda Valladolid de Duero SIERRA DE FRANCIA •# •# •# Río Duero The timeworn Sierra de Francia ZAMORA contains some of Spain's least-visited Salamanca back-country villages. The pick is •# Segovia probably La Alberca but San Martín •# del Castañar is also utterly beguiling. Ávila •# Guadalajara l •# SIERRA DE tra (p164) en FRANCIA a C #_ iller Cord MADRID •# PORTUGAL Plasencia •# jo Río Ta Toledo •#Cáceres

R ío Ciudad G •# •# Real LISBON #_ ua •# Badajoz Mérida d iana

SIERRAS SUBBÉTICAS Parque Natural Sierra A surprising rural oasis of green hills, de Andújar pretty villages, good hiking and Parque Natural Córdoba CAZORLA Sierra Norte •# •# excellent hotels and restaurants in •#Jaén the centre of Andalucía – with Huelva SIERRAS •# Granada, Córdoba and Málaga within •# Seville SUBBÉTICAS easy reach. (p717) Granada Parque •# Parque Nacional Natural de Doñana Sierra Jerez de la Frontera Nevada •# •# Cádiz •# Parque Marbella Málaga Natural Los •# Alcornocales del Sol Costa de sta la Luz Co CAZORLA Algeciras •#•# Gibraltar (UK) This lively, historic town, set where an •# Tangier •# Ceuta ocean of olive groves meets rugged (Spain) mountains, is the perfect base for Melilla exploring the big, beautiful Parque (Spain) •# Natural Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y M O R O C C O Las Villas. (p781)

Sidi 39

0 200 km e# 0 100 miles

CISTERCIAN ROUTE VALLES DE HECHO & ANSÓ The Cistercian Route weaves between three venerable monasteries that Among the least known but most TRIP YOUR PLAN beautiful of Spain's Pyrenean showcase some of Catalonia's most retreats, these twin valleys are laced beautiful architecture – and the with superb hikes, cosy lodgings and classy Priorat wine region is close by. great meals. (p418) (p398) •#Montpellier Bay of Biscay •#Toulouse •# F R A N C E Bilbao Bayonne •# •#San

•# OFF THE BEATEN TRACK Sebastián Parque Nacional Narbonne de Ordesa y Monte Perdido •#Vitoria- Gasteiz •# Pamplona ANDORRA VALLES DE Pyrenees •# #_ Logroño HECHO & Parc Nacional d'Aigüestortes ANDORRA R ANSÓ í •# i Estany de LA VELLA a o Girona v Sant Maurici •# a Eb Huesca r Soria ro B •# ta s •# o Zaragoza Lleida •# CISTERCIAN C ROUTE •# Barcelona

Tarragona •# ada aur a D st Co •# ALBARRACÍN Golfo de Valencia •# Teruel l •# e d r a a Menorca t h •# Cuenca s a o z C A Mallorca •#Maó

Palma de •# ) •# Mallorca es Valencia ar ale s B sla s (I land •# Albacete ic Is •#Ibiza Balear Town ca an Alicante Bl ALBARRACÍN Parque Natural •# a ALBARRACIN st Sierras de Cazorla, o Segura y las Villas C Hidden in a remote valley, pink-hued •# Murcia •# Albarracín preserves the aura of the middle ages like few villages in Spain, •# CARTAGENA with remarkable monuments and wonderful spots to stay, eat and M E D I T E R R A N E A N drink. (p442) S E A ALMERÍA •# CABO DE GATA #_ALGIERS ALGERIA CABO DE GATA & ALMERÍA CARTAGENA

The beach-and-cliff-strung Cabo de With a lovely waterfront and Gata promontory is dramatic, wild wonderful naturalA L G harbourE R I A in use for and an antidote to overdeveloped millennia, this port is one of Spain's shorelines. Its gateway, Almería, is most historically fascinating cities – •# one of Spain's most agreeable smaller an excellent surprise stop on the cities. (p790) Mediterranean coast. (p838)

Bord Zenina ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 911

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

OUR READERS Duncan Garwood I owe a lot of thanks, starting with my favourite Many thanks to the travellers who used the last travel companions, Lidia, Ben and Nick. Thanks edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful also to fellow writer John Noble for his generous advice and interesting anecdotes: Alfonso Iturbe, Andres Ceuterick, Darius Pavri, Elyas advice and Tom Stainer at Lonely Planet for his Rouhban, Jackie Gurrie, John Cushing, Jorge Marina, support. In Spain, gracias to Carmen Prado, Vin- Lucia Carrera, Maureen O’Leary, Megan Holmstrom, cente del Moral, María April, Paco Parra, Antonia Michael Kraus, Michael Leonesio, Peter Stoppa, Ross Requena, Yolanda Magán, Encarni Gutiérrez, Marquardt, Ross Whamond, Simon Mansfield, Steve Carmen Plazas, Mercedes Aguilar Pérez, Paula, Lamming, Steve Weisberg, Vince Calderhead. Alcayada García, Irene Godoy, Paula Dominguez and the team at Mojácar tourist office. WRITER THANKS Anthony Ham A life built in Spain encompasses so many relation- Gregor Clark ships that extend far beyond one trip. Heartfelt thanks Muchísimas gracias to the many Spaniards and to Sandra, Javi, Dani, Lucia, Marina, Alberto, Jose, Bea resident expatriates who shared their love of country and so many others. Gracias also to Eli Morales. At and local knowledge with me, especially Isabella, Lonely Planet, I am grateful to my editor Tom Stainer Eneida, Nigel, Emma, Domingo, Lucy, Ángel, Peter and numerous editors who brought focus and much Jan, Monica, Charles, Justine, Aideen and Marcel. wisdom to the book. To my family – Marina, Carlota Back home, besos y abrazos to Gaen, Meigan and and Valentina – who have always made Madrid a true Chloe, who always make coming home the best part place of the heart: con todo mi amor. And to Jan: we of the trip. hope to see you in Madrid again soon. Sally Davies Catherine Le Nevez Thanks to all those on the ground fielding my queries Moltes gràcies/muchas gracias/merci beaucoup first – in no particular order: Maria Parrilla, Dolors Bas, and foremost to Julian, and to all of the locals, tour- Vera de Frutos, Stefanie Roth, Mónica Homedes, ism professionals and fellow travellers who provided Enrichetta Cardinale, Cristina Rodenas, Gustavo insights, inspiration and good times. Huge thanks, Sánchez and Vanessa Ferrer. Thanks to Mary-Ann too, to Destination Editor Tom Stainer, my Barcelona Gallagher for suggestions, to Tom Stainer for his co-author Sally Davies and Spain co-authors, and all patience and, most of all, to my untiring research at Lonely Planet. As ever, merci encore to my parents, companion, Tess O’Donovan. brother, belle-sœur, neveu and nièce. 912 Isabella Noble Regis St Louis In Catalonia, thanks to Sally and Damien; Javi and I’m grateful to many people who gave advice and Olga in Girona; Josep and Ana in Espot; Llucia in offered insight into one of Spain’s most fascinating Deltebre; and the team who fixed my car brakes in regions. I’d like to thank Aitor Delgado and Carlos Begur. For Ibiza, gracias to Louis, Andrew, Becky, in Bilbao, Veronica Werckmeister of IMVG, and Doug, Val, Andy, Martin and Iain. Back in Andalucía, countless tourist office employees, barkeeps and

BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND thanks to Jack, Dan, Annie, Pepi, Helen, Eugenia, restaurant staff who provided helpful tips. Warm Monika, Tessa, and the Grazalema and Tarifa tour- thanks to Cassandra, our daughters Magdalena ism teams. Extra-special gracias to my fabulous and Genevieve, and my niece Anna for joining on co-writers, especially John, Gregor, Duncan and the great Basque Country road trip. Brendan. Andy Symington John Noble I am lucky enough to have great friends in Valencia Thanks to so many people for their help but extra- who help enthusiastically with research and provide special thanks to Isabella Noble, Iain Colquhoun, brilliant hospitality. I’m grateful to all, but especially Colin Richardson, Pablo and Manolo Canosa, Adrián to Rosa Martínez Sala, Delfina Soria Bonet, Dolors Costa García and the Liñares family. Roca Ferrerfabrega and Enrique Lapuente Ojeda, who went out of their way to assist me. Thanks also Josephine Quintero to Gloria López Carro and Richard Prowse for a Special thanks to the especially helpful tourist great stay in Alicante and to Vik Kritharelis and Rob offices in Cuenca and Almagro, as well as the local Davies for excellent company. I also owe gratitude experts in Toledo, who introduced me to some to many others who helped along the way. great places and provided invaluable advice. A mega gracias to the Lonely Planet editing staff, especially Tom Stainer, for pulling the whole thing ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS together. Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of Brendan Sainsbury the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol- Muchas gracias to all the bus drivers, tourist in- ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. formation staff, hoteliers, chefs, hiking guides and innocent passers-by who helped me, unwittingly or Illustrations pp98-9, pp262-3, pp276-7, pp290-1, otherwise, on my research trip. pp638-9, pp708-9, pp724-5 by Javier Zarracina Cover photograph: Alhambra, Richard Taylor/ 4Corners ©

Destination Editor To m Jodie Martire, Rosie Nicholson, THIS BOOK Stainer Christopher Pitts, Sarah Reid This 12th edition of Lonely Senior Product Editor Genna Assisting Cartographers Planet’s Spain guidebook Patterson Anita Banh, Laura Bailey, Mark was researched and written Product Editors Grace Dobell, Griffiths, James Leversha by Gregor Clark, Sally Davies, Heather Champion, Alison Cover Researcher Naomi Duncan Garwood, Anthony Ridgway Parker Ham, Catherine Le Nevez, Senior Cartographer Anthony Thanks to Ronan Abayawick- Isabella Noble, John Noble, Phelan rema, Katie Connolly, Gemma Josephine Quintero, Brendan Book Designer Virginia Moreno Graham, Shona Gray, Sandie Sainsbury, Regis St Louis and Kestell, Tanya Parker, Joe Andy Symington. Assisting Editors Sarah Bailey, Andrew Bain, Samantha Bindloss, Fiona Flores Watson, This guidebook was produced Forge, Emma Gibbs, Carly Rachel Rawling, Kathryn Rowan, by the following: Hall, Trent Holden, Gabrielle Jessica Ryan, Maja Vatrić, Sam Innes, Anita Isalska, Ali Lemer, Wheeler, Amanda Williamson ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 913

Index

A food 787-8 food 403, 410 Yacimiento Romano de Cáparra 619 A Coruña 573-7, 574 sights 785-6 highlights 404, 404 architecture 869-72, see A Guarda 593-4 tourist information 788 history 411 also Gaudi, Modernista accommodation 880-3 travel to/from/within tourist information 411 788-9 architecture, notable casas rurales 882-3 travel seasons 403 buildings Almodóvar, Pedro 85 hostels 881-2 travel to/from 411-12 art deco 871 Almuñécar 750-1 hotels 881 travel within 412 Azkuna Zentroa Alquézar 433-6, 435 language 902-5 Aranjuez 147-8 (Alhóndiga) 450 Altamira 520-2 refugios 882 archaeological museums baroque 871 Altea 832 activities 26, 28-32, 49-60, Arkeologi Museo 451 Bilbao 467 53, 49, 51, 52, 54, 56, amusement parks Museo Arqueológico de Gothic 870-1 57, 59, see also Fort Bravo 789 Asturias 528 Islamic 25, 869-70 individual activities Oasys Mini Hollywood Museo Arqueológico Modernisme 871 789-90 (Seville) 648 Aguilar de Campóo 188-9 Moorish 748-9 Parc d’Atraccions 287 Museu d’Arqueologia de Águilas 841-2 Mozarabic 869-70 Catalunya 288-9 Aínsa 429-30, 435, 434-5 Parque de Cristina Enea 465 Mudéjar 441, 869-70 air travel 893-4, 896 archaeological sites, see Tivoli World 761 also Roman ruins, ruins post-Franco 872 Al-Andalus 852-7, see also Renaissance 871 Moorish culture Andalucía 632-718, 719-94, Amfiteatre Romà 394-5 Romanesque 870-1 Albarracín 442-3, 435, 634-5, 720-1 Antequera Dolmens Site 765 Arcos de la Frontera 687-90, 4, 434 accommodation 632, 719 Atapuerca 201 689 Alcalá de Henares 149-50 climate 632, 719 Baños Árabes 695 Ardales 765 Alcalá del Júcar 234-5 food 43-4, 632, 719 Banys Àrabs 351 area codes 21, 890 Alcántara 610-11 highlights 634, 720 Casa dos Mosaicos 601 Arenas de Cabrales 551-2 Alcázar (Toledo) 217-20 tapas 787 Castro de Coaña 540-1 Ares 822 Alcoy 835 travel seasons 632, 719 Circo Romano Arriondas 547-8 Alhambra 12, 722-7, , Andorra 378 12 (Mérida) 623-4 art 25, 872-4 724, 725, 724-5 animal welfare 878 Dolmen del Romeral 766 Guernica 91-3, 874 Alicante 823-7, 824 animals 542-3, 542-3, see also individual species Empúries 356 Valencia 24 accommodation 825 Ansó 420-1, 435 Itálica 658 Vitoria-Gasteiz 48 drinking & nightlife 826 Antequera 765-7 Jewish Square 364 art galleries 12, see festivals & events 825 also museums, religious aquariums 799 Julióbriga 517-18 food 825-6 art museums Aquarium (San Medina Azahara 713 sights 823 CaixaForum (Barcelona) Sebastián) 463 Necrópolis Romana 659 sleeping 825 289, 290, 290 Aquarium Finisterrae 575 Parque Arqueológico de tourist information 826 Recópolis 244 Centre de Cultura L’Aquàrium 271 Contemporània de tours 823-4 Passeig Arqueològic 351 Oceanogràfic 799 Barcelona 265 Almagro 230-4 Passeig Arqueològic San Sebastián 463 Centro Botín 507 Almedina 786 Muralles 395 Zoo Aquarium de Centro de Arte Almería 785-9 Pretori i Circ Romans 395 Madrid 102 Contemporáneo de accommodation 786-7 aqueducts 624 Puerta de Almocábar 695 Mijas 764 entertainment 788 Aracena 667-9 Teatro Romano (Cadiz) 672 Centro de Arte Reina Aragón 66, 403-43, 434-5, Teatro Romano Sofía 91-3 (Mérida) 623 404 Centro José Map Pages 000 accommodation 403 Walls (Vejer de la Guerrero 732 Photo Pages Frontera) 697-8 000 climate 403 discount cards 86 914 art galleries continued Museu Nacional d’Art safety 335 Playa de Ermita de San Antonio de Catalunya 288, shopping 328-33 Valdearenas 510 de la Florida 107 291, 292 sights 254-94 Playa de Zurriola 467 Espacio Torner 239 268-9 tourist information 334 Playa del Aguilar 539 Fundació Antoni Palacio Gaviria 79 tours 294-5 Playa del Puntal 509 Tàpies 281 Palau Robert 282 travel seasons 249 Playa del Sardinero 509

INDEX INDEX Fundació Foto Picasso Museum 150 travel to/from 334-5 Playa del Silencio 539 Colectania 267 Real Academia de travel within 335-6 Playas de Langre 510 Fundació Joan Miró 288, Bellas Artes de San walking tours 318, Praia A Lanzada 588 291, 291 Fernando 86 318

,A-B Praia As Catedrais 582  Fundació Suñol 282 Sala Fundación Bares Peninsula 581 bargaining 23 342-3, 525 MAPFRE 281  Institut Valencià d’Art Praia da Magdalena 579 Modern 802 Arties 383-4 Barranco de Poqueira 746 Praia da Mar de Fora 569 Museo de Arte Abstracto Astorga 194-6 Barrio del Carmen 799, 802 Praia de Nemiña 571-603 (Cuenca) 239 Asturias 505-6, 526-56, Basque Country 66, 444- Praia de Pantín 579 Museo de Arte Abstracto 524, 506, 524, 525 83, 445 Praia de Samil 590 Español 238 accommodation 505 accommodation 444 Praia de Vilarrube 579 Museo de Arte climate 505 climate 444 Contemporáneo Praia do Rostro 571 food 505 food 42, 444, 454 (Hecho) 418 Playa El Rosal 523 highlights 506, 506 highlights 445, 445 Museo de Arte Santander 510 travel seasons 505 travel seasons 444 Contemporáneo Sitges 390 (León) 190-1 Atienza 246-7 Basque culture 474-5 474-5 Tarifa 701 Museo de Arte Ávila 152-7, 154 Basque language 906, 907 bears 543, 544, 543 Contemporáneo de Avilés 538-9 bathhouses see hammams Alicante 823 beaches 15, 27, 61-2, 343, Begur 347-9 Museo de Arte 524, 15, 342-3 Belmonte 235 Contemporánea B Barcelona 282 Benalmádena 760-2 de Vigo 590 Badajoz 630-1 Begur 347 Benasque 430-2 Museo de Arte Sacro 703 Cabo de Gata 792 Benicàssim 819-20 (Teruel) 440 Baeza 776-9 El Poblenou Platges 282 Benidorm 830-1 Museo de Bellas Artes Baiona 592-3 Hendaye 477 Besalú 364-5 (Badajoz) 630 Balearic Islands 844-5 La Carihuela 761 Betanzos 577-8 Museo de Bellas Artes food 43 bicycle tours 111, 295 (Bilbao) 447 La Isleta del Moro 790, Barcelona 11, 65, 249-336, 343 bicycle travel 896 Museo de Bellas Artes 250-1, 252-3, 256-7, (Valencia) 803 Platja de la Bienal de Flamenco 31 262-3, 266, 272 276-7, Barceloneta 282 Bilbao 446-59, 448-9, Museo de Bellas Artes 278-9, 286, 290-1, Platja de l’Eixample 282 452, 17 (Vitoria-Gasteiz) 481 292, 2, 10-11, 26, 260, Platja de Sant Miquel accommodation 453 Museo del Prado 94-9, 262, 263, 268, 274, 282 98-9, 12, 94, 97, 276, 277, 284-5, 290-1 entertainment 457 Platja de Sant 98, 99 accommodation 249, food 453-6 Sebastià 282 Museo Guggenheim 296-301 nightlife 456-7 Platja Llané 359 Bilbao 16, 446-7, 17 activities 294 shopping 457-8 Playa Burriana 768 Museo Joaquín children, travel with 294 tourist information 458 Playa de Barayo 541 Peinado 695 climate 249 tours 447 Playa de Cueva 541 Museo Lázaro discount cards 271 travel to/from 458 Galdiano 105 Playa de Gulpiyuri 538 drinking 317-25 travel within 459 Museo Municipal de Arte Playa de la Ballota 538 emergencies 333 walking tours 452, 452 Contemporáneo 106-7 Playa de la Caleta 673 entertainment 325-8 Bioparc 803 Museo Patio Playa de la Concha 463, Herreriano 177 festivals & events 295-6 birdwatching 342 food 249, 301-17, 316 Aragón 417 Museo Sorolla 107 Playa de la Victoria 673 gay travellers 324 Catalonia 400 Museo Thyssen- Playa de Laida 461 Bornemisza 90-1 highlights 250, 250-1 Centro de Interpretación Playa de Merón 523 Museu del Modernisme history 254-5 de Aves Arcaz 416 Playa de Oriñón 514 Barcelona 281-2 itineraries 255, 290-1, El Rocío 666 Playa de Oyambre 522 Museu Episcopal 290-1 boat travel 895, 896-7 Playa de Rodiles 534 (Vic) 385 lesbian travellers 324 Boí 381 Playa de Somo 509 medical services 333-4 books 848 Playa de Sonabia 514 money 334 bridges Map Pages 000 Playa de Toranda 538 nightlife 317-25 Aqüeducte de les Photo Pages 000 Playa de Torimbia 538 postal services 334 Ferreres 395 915 Pont Fortificat 364 Northern Ways 518 food 151 Castillo de Dénia 827 Puente Colgante Navarra 490, 491 highlights 153, 153 Castillo de Gormaz 168 (Bilbao) 451 Camino Francés see travel seasons 151 Castillo de Guzmán 700 Puente Romano Castilla-La Mancha 65, Castillo de Javier 496 (Alcántara) 610-11 Campo de Criptana 229-30 215-16, 227-48, 216, Castillo de la Atalaya 833 Puente Romano Cangas de Onís 548-50 232-3 Castillo de la

(Cangas de Onís) 549 INDEX canoeing 59, 536, 547-8 accommodation 215 Concepción 839 Puente Romano Cantabria 66, 505-26, climate 215 Castillo de la Peña (Córdoba) 711 524, 506, food 215 Feliciano 416 Puente Romano accommodation 505, Castillo de la Yedra 782  B-C (Mérida) 623 highlights 216, 216 524-5 travel seasons 215 Castillo de Loarre 415  Zubizuri 451 climate 505 Castillo de Calatrava 231 Castillo de Briones 503 Monfragüe 621 food 505 Castillo de Sagunto 815 brown bear 543, 543 highlights 506, 506 Castillo de Morella 822 budget 21 Castillo de Xàtiva 817-18 tourist information 512 Castillo de Olivenza 627 Buitrago 150 Castillo Fortaleza del Sol travel seasons 505 (Lorca) 843 Castillo de Oropesa 228 bullfighting 877-8 travel to/from 512 castles & fortresses Castillo de Pedraza 174 Bulnes 552-3 travel within 512 Alcazaba (Almería) 785 Castillo de Peñafiel 205 Burgos 197-201, 198 Cantera de Alcántara 612 Alcazaba (Antequera) Castillo de Peñíscola 820 bus travel 894, 897, 899 canyoning 59-60, 554, 765-6 Castillo de Sagunto 815 passes 897 690, 782 Alcazaba (Badajoz) 630 Castillo de San José 831 tickets 144 Cap de Creus 361 Alcazaba (Mérida) 623 Castillo de Capricho de Gaudí 522 Alcázar (Jerez de la San Marcos 677 car travel 894, 897-9 Frontera) 681-2 Castillo de San Miguel C (Almuñécar) 750 cable cars car hire 897 Alcázar (Segovia) 169 Castillo de Santa Telefèric de Montjuïc 288 parking 898 Alcázar (Toledo) 217-20 Bárbara 823 Teleférico de Fuente road rules 898-9 Alcázar de la Puerta de Castillo de Santa Dé 555 Sevilla 659 Caracena 209 Catalina 775 Teleférico del Puerto 288 Cardona 387-8 Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos 711 Castillo de Santiago 679 Cabo de Gata 790, 791, 343 Carmona 659-60 Castell de Begur 347 Castillo de Segura 784 Cabo Fisterra 569 Carnaval 28 Castell de Cardona 387 Castillo de Sigüenza 245 Cabo Ortegal 579-81 Águilas 841 Castell de la Suda 402 Castillo de Xàtiva 817-18 Cáceres 605-10, 606 Badajoz 631 Castell de Llívia 375 Castillo de Zuheros 717 Cadaqués 359-61 Bilbao 451 Castell de Miravet 401 Castillo del Rey 523 Cádiz 669-76, 670-1 Cádiz 675 Castell de Púbol 349 Castillo Fortaleza del Sol accommodation 673-4 Ciudad Rodrigo 163 (Lorca) 843 Castell de courses 673 San Sebastián 468 Sant Ferran 362-3 Castillo Mayor (Daroca) 437 entertainment 676 Sitges 390 Castelo de food 674-5 Cartagena 838-41 Santa Cruz 593 Castillo Roquero 246 nightlife 675-6 Carthage 851 Castelo dos Castillo Templario 629 sights 669-73 Casa Batlló 273, 278-80, Sarmento 597 Castle (Albarracín) 442 cafes 456 284-5 Castilla y León 168 Cuidadela (Aragón) 422 CaixaForum (Barcelona) Casa Bruno Castillo (Aínsa) 429 Ciudadela 289, 290, 290 Cuadros 263, 263 Castillo (Aracena) 668 (Pamplona) 485 Caesaraugusta 409 Casa de Pilatos 647, 11 Castillo (Puebla de Fortaleza de la Mota 777 Calatañazor 211-12 24 Sanabria) 185 Fortaleza de Monterreal 592 Calella de casas colgadas 238 Castillo Árabe 692 Monte Urgull 467 Palafrugell 340-5 Castell de Montjuïc 289, Castillo (Zamora) 182 Palacio Real (Olite) Calp 829-30 291, 291 Castillo de Alcalá de 492-3 Camariñas 572-3 Castell de Púbol 349 Júcar 234 Turégano 168 Camarón de la Isla 877 castellers 395, 10-11 Castillo de Belmonte 235 Vejer de la Frontera 698 Camí de Ronda (Costa Castellfollit de la Roca 370 Castillo de Berlanga de Brava Way) 340 Castelló d’Empúries 357-9 Duero 208 Castro Caldelas 599-600 Camino de Santiago 14, Castellón 818-19 Castillo de Castro Urdiales 514-15 51-5, 518, 53, 14, 52, 54 Castellón Province 818-23 Burgos 199-200 904 Atienza 247 Castilla y León 64, 151-214, Castillo de Calatrava 231 Catalonia 65, 337-402, Castilla y León 197 153 Castillo de Carlos V 477 338, 369 Galicia 602, 601 accommodation 151 Castillo de Consuegra accommodation 337 climate 337 La Rioja 490, 491 climate 151 228 916 Catalonia continued Catedral de Santa cell phones 20, 889 Colegiata de San food 24, 42, 337, 348, 367 Maria (Tui) 594 Celts 851 Patricio (Lorea) 842 highlights 338, 338 Catedral de Santa María cemeteries Colegiata de San (Vitoria-Gasteiz) 479 Pedro 517 history 344-5 Cementiri del Catedral de Santa María Colegiata de Santa travel seasons 337 Poblenou 273 de la Redonda 497 Juliana 519 Catedral de Sevilla 636-43, Cementiri del

INDEX INDEX Catedral de Santa Maria Colegiata de Santa , , Sud-Oest 293 638-9 638 639 & Museu Diocesà 376 María 213 Catedral de Toledo 217 Comares Cemetary 769 Catedral de Santa María Necrópolis Romana 659 Colegiata de Santa Catedral de Valencia 797 de Mediavilla 440 María la Mayor C cathedrals 27, see Centro de Arte Reina (Antequera) 766  Catedral de Santa María Sofía 91-3  also churches, La de Sigüenza 244 Colegiata Santa María Sagrada Familia Cerdanya 373-6 Catedral de Santiago de La Mayor (Toro) 81 Catedral (Astorga) 194 Compostela 560-3 Cervantes 87, 149, 232-3 Convento de Santa Catedral (Burgos) 198-9 Catedral de Sant Pere Chaorna 212 Teresa 152-5 Catedral (El Burgo de (Vic) 385 children, travel with 61-3 Cripta de Santa Osma) 207-8 Catedral de Santo Barcelona 294 Eulalia 624 Catedral (León) 189, Domingo de la Chinchón 148-9 Ermita de la Regalina 540 189-90 Calzada 500 churches, see also Ermita de San Catedral (Palencia) 186 Catedral de Sevilla 636- cathedrals Bartolomé 207 Catedral (Segovia) 169 43, 636-43, 638-9, Basílica de Ermita de San Catedral (Valladolid) 175-7 638, 639 Covadonga 550 Baudelio 208 Catedral (Zamora) 182 Catedral de Basílica de La Ermita de San Miguel de Catedral de Baeza 776 Tarragona 394 Macarena 649 Gormaz 208 Catedral de Cádiz 670 Catedral de Toledo 217 Basílica de Nuestra Ermita de Santa Señora del Buen Cecilia 188 Catedral de Cuenca 238 Catedral de Valencia 797 Consejo 85 Ermita del Rocío 665 Catedral de Girona 350 Catedral del Salvador 152 Basílica de Nuestra Església de Mare de Déu Catedral de Granada Catedral del Salvador Señora del Pilar 405 dels Àngels 375 731-2 (Albarracín) 442 Basílica de Nuestra Església de Sant Andrèu Catedral de la Asunción Catedral Nueva 158 Señora del Prado 227 (Salardú) 384 509, 774-5 Catedral Santa María de Basílica de San Francisco Església de Sant Catedral de la Encar- la Huerta 413 El Grande 81-2 Bartomeu i Santa nación (Almería) 785 Catedral Vieja 158 Basílica de San Juan Tecla 389-90 Concatedral de Santa Catedral de Mallorca 844 187-8 María 607 Església de Sant Esteve Catedral de Nuestra Basílica de San 349 Señora de la La Catedral 258 Sebastián 203 Església de Sant Llorenç Almudena 76-8 La Seo 406-7 Basílica de (Lleida) 388 Catedral de Plasencia 617 La Seu Vella 388 San Vicente 155 Església de Sant Pau del Catedral de San Pedro Mezquita 13, 705-11, 708- Basílica de Sant Feliu 351 Camp 265 (Jaca) 422 9, 13, 708, 709 Basílica de Santa Església de Sant Pere 347 Catedral de San Catholic Monarchs 856 María (Castelló Esglèsia de Santa Maria Salvador (Jerez de la cave art 524, 524 d’Empúries) 358 (Arties) 383 Frontera) 681 caves Basílica de Santa María Iglesia Colegial del Catedral de San Cueva de los (Elche) 832 Divino Salvador 647 Salvador (Oviedo) Murciélagos 717 Basílica de Santa María 526-7 Iglesia de la Asunción Cueva de Nerja 768 a Maior 587 (Hornos) 783-4 Catedral de Santa María Basílica de Santa María (Ciudad Rodrigo) 163 Cueva de Tito Iglesia de la Bustillo 536 de los Sagrados Candelaria 628 Catedral de Santa María Corporales 437 (Huesca) 414 Cueva del Pindal 537 Iglesia de la Basílica de Santa Maria Cuevas de Monte Magdalena 182 Catedral de Santa María del Mar 265-6 (Lugo) 601 Castillo 513 Iglesia de Nuestra Señora Basílica de Santa María de la Asunción & Catedral de Santa María Cuevas de la Mayor 822 Museo Parroquial 244 (Murcia) 835 Santimamiñe 459 Basílica Menor de Iglesia de Nuestra Catedral de Santa María Cuevas de Sorbas 789 Santa María de la Señora de la O 679 (Pamplona) 485 Cuevas del Diablo 234 Asunción 687 Iglesia de Nuestra Señora Catedral de Santa Maria Gruta de las Basílica San Juan de de los Ángeles 523 (Tortosa) 402 Maravillas 667-8 Dios 732-3 Santa Cueva Iglesia de San Andrés 85 Capilla de Santa Cruz Iglesia de San Bartolomé (Covadonga) 550 549 Cazorla 781-3 497 Map Pages 000 Colegiata de San Cosme Cedeira 579 Iglesia de San Esteban Photo Pages 000 y Damián 202 416 917 Iglesia de San Francisco Iglesia de Santa María La cider 532, 524 CentroCentro 102 Javier 607 Blanca 187 Cistercian Route 398 Círculo de Bellas Iglesia de San Ginés 80-1 Iglesia de Santa María La Ciudad de las Artes y las Artes 86 Iglesia de San Jerónimo Mayor (Ronda) 695 Ciencias 799 MACBA 264 El Real 103 Iglesia de Santa María la Ciudad Encantada 243 Matadero Madrid 83 Iglesia de San Jorge Mayor (Trujillo) 612 Ciudad Rodrigo 162-4 San Sebastián 466

663 Iglesia de Santa María La Ciutadella 845 culture 848, 875-8 INDEX Nueva 182 Iglesia de San Juan Ciutat Vella 797-9, 804-6 currency 20 (Almería) 786 Iglesia de San Tirso 197 Civil War, see Spanish customs regulations 883 Iglesia de San Juan Iglesia de Santo

Civil War  C-E (Daroca) 437 Domingo 210 cycling 55-6, 803, 814, 26, climate 20, 28-32, 20, see 54, see also bicycle  Iglesia de San Juan Iglesia de Santo Tomé also individual regions tours Bautista (Ávila) 155 221, 224 cocido maragato 195 information 56 Iglesia de San Juan de Iglesia de Santo Tomé El Puerta Nueva 182 Viejo 155 Comares 769 Seville 650 Iglesia de San Julián de Iglesia de San Combarro 588 Comillas 522-3 los Prados 530 Vicente 467 D Cómpeta 769 Iglesia de San Martín Iglesia de Vera Cruz 170 Dalí, Salvador 363, 874 187, 612 Consuegra 228-9 Iglesia del Salvador 221 Casa Museu Dalí Iglesia de San Miguel Iglesia Parroquial consulates 884 (Cadaqués) 359 (Daroca) 437 Nuestra Señora de la convents, see monasteries Castell de Púbol 349 Iglesia de San Miguel Encarnación 692 & convents Dalt Vila 845 (Jerez de la Frontera) Iglesia Rupestre de cooking courses 42, 112 dance, see flamenco 683 Santa María de Cordillera Cantábrica 524 Iglesia de San Miguel Valverde 517 Daroca 437-8 Córdoba 13, 704-17, 706 (Oñati) 478 Iglesia San Ildefonso 221 Delta de l’Ebre 399-401 accommodation 712-14 Iglesia de San Iglesia-Fortaleza Dénia 827-8 festivals & events 712 Miguel (Palencia) 186 de Santa María de Desierto de Tabernas Iglesia de San Miguel Ujué 493 food 714-15 789-90 de Lillo 530 Prioral de Santa María nightlife 715 disabilities, travellers with Iglesia de San de la Asunción 659-60 sights 705-12 890-1 Nicolás 798 Real Basílica de San travel to/from 716 discount cards 883-4 Iglesia de San Nicolás de Isidoro 191 travel within 716 Barcelona 271 los Servitas 81 Real Clerecía de San 373 Bilbao 458 Iglesia de San Pedro Marcos 159 Costa Brava 18, 339-65, Cartagena 840 (Ávila) 155 Real Monasterio 341, 15, 18 Girona 354 Iglesia de San Pedro de Santa María Costa Brava Way (Camí de Granada 733 (Arcos de la Frontera) de Guadalupe 615 Ronda) 340 687-90 Madrid 86 rock-cut churches Costa Cálida 841-2 Iglesia de San Pedro (Cantabria) 517 Mérida 623 Costa da Morte 568-73 (Siresa) 419 Sacra Capilla de Valladolid Card 178 Costa Daurada 389-402 Iglesia de San Pedro El Salvador 779 Visitávila Card 152 Costa de la Luz 697- (Teruel) 439 San Martín de Elines 517 diving 60 700, 57 Iglesia de San Pedro de San Pedro de la Andalucía 751 Costa del Sol 760-4 la Rúa 495 Nave 185 dolphins 773 courses, see also language Iglesia de San Pedro Sant Climent de Don Quijote 232-3, courses 233 El Viejo 85, 414 Taüll 381-2 drinking 27 see also cooking 42, 112 Iglesia de San Pedro & Sant Joan de Boí 381 individual locations flamenco 111-12 San Isidro 163 Sant Martí de Palafrugell etiquette 48 Covadonga 550 Iglesia de San Salvador 340 813 de Valdediós 534 Covarrubias 202-3 Santa Eulàlia d’Erill la language 903 Iglesia de Santa María credit cards 887 Vall 381 orujo 554 (Aínsa) 429 Cudillero 539-40 Santa María da driving, see car travel Iglesia de Santa María de Atalaia 573-4 Cuenca 238-43, 240 la Asunción 514 Santa María de Cuenca School 239 Iglesia de Santa María de Eunate 494-5 cultural centres E Lebeña 554 Santa Maria de Taüll 382 Centro Andaluz de Écija 660-1 Iglesia de Santa María de Santuari de la Mare de Flamenco 683-4 economy 849 los Reyes 503 Déu 372 Centro Cultural El Burgo de Osma 207-9 Iglesia de Santa María de Santuario da Virxe da Internacional Oscar Mediavilla 179 El Cid 202 Barca 571 Niemeyer 538-9 Iglesia de Santa María El Greco 95, 224 Santuario de la Centro de Interpretación del Mercado 192 El Maestrazgo 820-3 Misericordia 413 Olivar y Aceite 780 918 El Puerto de Santa María Basque Country 42, 454 Garganta del Cares 552 H 676-9 Bilbao 454, 455 Garrovillas de Alconétar hammams 748 El Rastro flea market bocadillo 616 Aire Baños Árabes 650 82-3, 136 de calamares 123 Gaudí, Antoni 284-5, 284- Balneario de Lanjarón 745 El Rocío 665-7 Catalonia 24, 42, 124, 5, see also La Sagrada Baños Árabes El El Toboso 235 348, 367 Familia Bañuelo 731

INDEX INDEX Elche 831-3 cooking courses 42, 112 Capricho de Gaudí 522 Baraka 630-1 electricity 884 festivals 41 Casa Batlló 273, 278-80 El Aljibe de Cáceres 608 Embalse del Tobar 243 Galicia 566, 580 Casa Vicens 24 Hammam Al Ándalus 733

E-H embassies 884 inland Spain 42-3 Gaudí Centre (Reus) 400 Hammam Andalusí (Jerez  emergencies 21 jamón 42, 629, 668 Gaudí Experience 283-6 de la Frontera) 684  encierro 475 language 48, 903 La Pedrera 280-1 Medina Mudéjar 222 Església de Betlem 262, marzipan 225 Park Güell 283, 284-5 Haro 501-3 262 meals 45 gay travellers 886-7 health 884-5 Espot 379-81 menú del día 45 Barcelona 324 Hecho 418-19 Estadio Santiago Murcia 43 Madrid 132 Hervás 619-20 Bernabéu 107 Northwest 43 Gernika 459-60 highlights 10-19, 8-9 Estella 495-6 pintxos 471 Getaria 462-76 hiking 50-5, 51, 369, see Estepona 763-4 ponche segoviano 172 Gibraltar 769-74, 770 also Camino de Santi- etiquette 23 seasons 41 accommodation 772-3 ago, Picos de Europa events see festivals & tapas 121 food 773 Aracena 668 events tours 111, 112, 166, 167 sights 771-2 Ardales 765 exchange rates 21 Valencia 43 tourist information 773 Camino de la Costa Extremadura 67, 604-31, vegan 45 travel to/from 774 (Camino del Norte) 518 605 vegetarian 45 travel within 774 Camino del Interior accommodation 604 Vaasco-Riojano 518 food tours Gijón 532-4 climate 604 Camino Lebaniego 518 Madrid 111, 121 Girona 350-5, 352 food 604, 608, 613, 629 Camino Primitivo 518 food & wine festivals 41 highlights 605 accommodation 355 football 877 Catalonia 380, 369 road trips 620, 622 Goya, Francisco 87, 96, Barcelona 327 103, 873 Cazorla 784 travel seasons 604 Zaragoza 405 Collado de Pandébano 553 Experience 286 Gran Teatre del Licen El Naranjo de Bulnes 553 F Formentera 845 262, 262 FC Barça 327 Fornells 845 Gran Vía 106 Lagos de Covadonga 550-1 Feria de Abril 29 Franco dictatorship 864-5 Granada 68, 722-42, 728-9 Mediterranean Steps 772 Festival Internacional de Fuendetodos 412 accommodation 734-6 Muxía 572-3 Benicàssim 819 Fuengirola 762 entertainment 740 Parc Nacional festivals & events 28-32, Fuente Dé 555-6 festivals & events 734 see also Carnaval, d’Aigüestortes i Estany Fundacio Joan Miro 288, food 736-9 Semana Santa, de Sant Maurici 380, 291, individual locations 291 highlights 720 379 Figueres 361-4 nightlife 739-40 Parque Natural de Somiedo 545 films 848 G shopping 740-1 Plan d’Aiguallut 432 Fisterra 569-71 Galicia 557-603, 558 sights 722-33 Pyrenees 16, 50-1, 365- flamenco 17, 137, 875-6, accommodation 557 street art 732 85, 16, 51, 368-9 17, 137 climate 557, 567 tapas 738 Ruta Cañón do Río courses 111-12 food 43, 557, 580 tourist information 741 Mao 599 Jerez de la Frontera 686 tours 734 highlights 558, 558 Ruta del Cares 552 folk music 568 travel to/from 741 tourist information 567 Ruta do Litoral 572-3 food 23, 25, 40-8, 118, travel within 741-2 travel seasons 557 Ruta Urdón-Tresviso , , , , see Granadilla 619 46-7 23 40 43 travel to/from 567-8 553-4 also tapas, pintxos Greeks 850-1 travel within 568 San Sebastián 476 Andalucía 43-4, 749 Green Ways, see Vías views 581 Sierra de Grazalema 691 Asturias 535 Verdes Galician folk music 568 Vega de Urriello 552-3 Balearic Islands 43 Guadalest 831 Galician language 565, 905 Via Ferrata La Mocha 782 Guadalupe 615-16 galleries see art galleries, history 850-68 Guadix 743 religious art galleries Catalonia 344-5 Gandia 816-17 Guernica 91-3, 874, see Map Pages 000 also Gernika Catholic Monarchs García Lorca, Federico 736 (Reyes Católicos) 856 Photo Pages 000 Guijuelo 166-7 919 Celts 851 jamón 42, 629, 668 La Rioja 444-5, 496-504, drinking 126-31 democracy 865-8 Monesterio 629 445 El Retiro 75, 87-103, 115, Franco dictatorship Jardines del Turia 803 accommodation 444 122, 128, 139, 92 864-5 Javier 496 climate 444 emergencies 142 Greeks 850-1, 851 Jerez de la Frontera 24, food 444 entertainment 131-5, 134 Jewish sites 351, 710, 853 681-7, 682-3 highlights 445 festivals & events 112

la movida madrileña 866 Jewish sites 351, 710, 853 travel seasons 444 food 70, 117-26 INDEX La Reconquista 855 Girona 351 La Sagrada Família 14, 274- highlights 72, 84, 137, modern 867-8 7, 285, 14, 274, 276, 72-3

Moorish Spain 852-7 277, 285, 276-7 history 71  H-M K Phoenicians 850 Las Alpujarras 743-50, 744 internet access 143

 kayaking 59 Roman 851-2 Las Fallas de San José itineraries 84 kitesurfing 59, 59 Spanish Civil War 861-4 28, 807 local life 137 Tarifa 701-2 Spanish colonialism 196 medical services 143 857-61 lauburu 474 nightlife 15, 126-31, 15 Spanish Inquisition 858 L Laxe 573-4 safety 142 hitching 899 La Alberca 165-74 legal matters 886 shopping 135-42 holidays 888 La Albufera 815 Lekeitio 461-2 sights 76-110 Holy Week 29, 18, see also La Axarquía 769 León 189-94, 190 tourist information 143 individual locations La Isleta del Moro 792, 343 Lerma 204-5 tours 111 Hondarribia 477-8 La Herradura 750-1 lesbian travellers 886-7 travel seasons 70 horchata 813 La Lonja 798 Barcelona 324 travel to/from 143-4 Hornos 783-4 La Mancha 232 Madrid 132 travel within 144-5 horse riding La Molina 375-6, 56 L’Escala 356-7 walking tours 100, 100 El Rocío 666 la movida madrileña 866 L’Estartit 356 Maladeta Massif 432-3 Lanjarón 745 LGBTI travellers 886-7, La Pedrera 280-1 Málaga 751-60, 752-3 Tarifa 701 see also individual La Rábida 663 accommodation 756-7 horses 62-3 locations La Rambla 260-3, 262- nightlife 758-9 hotels, see accommodation lighthouses 3, 260 sights 753-5 Huerto del Cura 831 La Reconquista 855 Torre de Hércules 575 Lires 571 tourist information Huesca 414-15 La Seu d’Urgell 376-7 759-60 Llafranc 345-6 La Tahá 747 travel to/from 760 Llanes 537-8 816 travel within 760 I Lleida 388-9 La Vera 618-19 Mallorca 844 Iberian lynx 542, 543 Llívia 374-5 Iberian wolf 184, 542-3 La Vera villages 619 maps 887 Logroño 497-9, 498 542-3 Laburu 475 Marbella 762-3 accommodation 497-8 Iglesia de San Nicolás 798 Lagos de Covadonga 550-1 markets 137, 2, 137 food 498-9 Illa de Ons 588 Lagos de Covadonga 19 Bilbao 457 tourist information 499 Illas Cíes 591 Laguardia 503-4 El Rastro flea market 37, travel to/from 499 Illes Medes 356 Laguna de Gallocanta 438 82-3, 136 Lorca 24, 842-3, 846 Imón 248 Laguna Negra 212 Mercado Central Los Caños de Meca lakes (Valencia) 798 insurance 885 699-700 Ibón de Barrancs 432 Mercado de Colón 802-3 internet access 885 Luarca 540-1 internet resources 20-1 Ibón de Coll de Toro 432 Mercado de San Miguel Lugo 600-3 137, islands Laguna de Pitillas 493 136-7 Luintra 598-9 Mercado La Esperanza Balearic Islands 844-5 language lynx 542, 543 509 Illes Medes 356 Basque 475 Mercado Victoria food 48 Isla de San Nicolás 461 (Córdoba) 714 language courses 885-6 Isla de Santa Clara 464 M Mercat de Madrid 64, 70-145, 111, San Juan de Cádiz 673 262, 265, 262 Gaztelugatxe 462 72-3, 74, 78-9, 82, Granada 733-4 Mercat de Santa 88-9, 92, 98-9, 104, itineraries 35-9, 33, 34, Vejer de la Frontera 698 Caterina 267 15, 94, 98, 99, 136-7 35, 36, 37, see also languages 20, 902-10 San Sebastián 473 accommodation 70, individual locations Basque 906, 907 112-17 marzipan 225 Catalan 904 activities 111 Masella 375-6 Galician 565, 905 J Barrio de las Letras 86 Medina Azahara 713, 749 Jaca 422-3 Lanjarón 745 climate 70 Medina de Rioseco 179-80 Jaén 774-6 Laredo 516 courses 111-12 Medina Mudéjar 24, 749 920 Medinaceli 213-14 Convento de las Museu-Monestir de sights 835 Menorca 844-5 Dueñas 160 Pedralbes 286 tourist information 838 menú del día 45 Convento de San Real Convento de Santa travel seasons 795 Mercado Central Esteban 159 Clara 180 travel to/from 838 (Valencia) 798 Convento de San Real Monasterio de San travel within 838 Marcos 191 Lorenzo 146 Mercado de San Miguel Murcia Museo

INDEX INDEX Convento de Santa Clara Real Monasterio de 137, 136-7 Arqueológico de (Zafra) 628 Santa María de Mercat de la Boqueria 262, Alicante 823 Convento de Santo Do- Guadalupe 615 265, 262 Museo Arqueológico mingo El Antiguo 224 Reial Monestir de Santa

M (Elche) 833  Mérida 622-6, 624 Maria de Poblet 398

Conventual de San  Museo de Arte Contem- metro 899, see also train Benito 611 Reial Monestir de Santa travel poráneo de Alicante 823 Estella 495 Maria de Vallbona 398 Mezquita 13, 705-11, 708-9, Museo de Bellas Artes 803 Monasterio de la Reial Monestir de Santes , , Museo del Patriarca 798 13 708 709 Cartuja 733 Creus 398 Mijas 764 Museo del Prado 94-9, Monasterio de la Santa María de la Huerta Minas de Riotinto 667 Encarnación 155 213 98-9, 12, 94, 97, 98, 99 mines 667 Monasterio de la Rábida Santuario de Mirador de Colom 263, 663 Arantzazu 478 Museo Guggenheim Bilbao 16, 446-7, 272-3 263 Monasterio de las Santuario de La 17 Miró, Joan 288, 291, 874, Huelgas 199 Peregrina 197 Museo Nacional de Arqueología 291 Monasterio de San money 20, 21, 887-8 Subacuática 839 Misteri d’Elx 832 Jerónimo 733 bargaining 23 Museo Nacional de mobile phones 20, 889 Monasterio de San tipping 23 Cerámica 798 Modernista architecture Miguel de Escalada 194 Monforte de Lemos 600 Museo Thyssen- 284-5, see also La Monasterio de San Juan Montaña Palentina 188-9 Bornemisza 90-1 Sagrada Familia de la Peña 421 Monte Perdido 426 Museu Nacional d’Art de Antigua Universidad Monasterio de Santa Monte Toro 845 Catalunya 288, 291, Pontificia 522 Clara 664 Montjuic 290-1, 290-1, 291 CaixaForum 289, 290, Monasterio de Santa 290, 291 museums see also 290 María del Parral 169 archaeological Monasterio de Santa Montsant 399 Capricho de Gaudí 522 museums, art galleries, María la Real 188-9 Montserrat 386-7 281 religious art galleries Monasterio de Santo monuments, see statues & Casa Batlló 273, 278-80 Albaola Foundation 476 Tomás 152 monuments Casa Lleó Morera 282 Alcázar (Toledo) 217-20 Monasterio de Santo Moorish culture 748-9, Estación Internacional Toribio de Liébana 554 853-4, 748-749 Alma Mater Museum 407 de Canfranc 424 Monasterio de Suso 500 Moorish monuments 852 Arkeologi Museo 451 La Pedrera 284-5 Monasterio de Yuso 500 Moorish Spain 852-7 Artium 479 Museu del Modernisme Monasterio de Yuste 618 Morella 822-3 Benal mádena Pueblo Barcelona 281-2 761 Monasterio Sancti 835 Park Güell 283, 284-5 Bibat 480-1 Spiritus 181 mosques 13, 705-11, 13 Recinte Modernista de Buddhist Stupa 761 Sant Pau 281 Monastery of Bidaurreta mountain-biking 26, 54, 479 Caixa Forum 102 Mogarraz 164 see also cycling Monestir de Montserrat Camp Nou Experience Mogrovejo 555 mountains, see also Picos 386 de Europa, Pyrenees 286 Moguer 664 Monestir de Sant Pere Monte Jaizkibel 477 Carmen Museo Max Mojácar 793-4 Moreau 731 365 Peña de Francia 165 Molina de Aragón 243 Casa de Cervantes 177 Monestir de Sant Pere Peña Vieja 556 monasteries & convents de Galligants 351-2 Casa La Canana 793 Tibidabo 287 Abadía de Santo Domingo Monestir de Sant Pere Casa Museo Andalusí 780 Mundaka 461 de Silos 203 de Rodes 360 Casa Museo Martín murals 482, 732 Cartuja de Miraflores 199 Monestir de Santa Alonso Pinzón 663 Colegiata de Santa Maria 371 Murcia 795-6, 835, 796, Casa Museo Picasso 574 836 María 433 Mosteiro de Caaveiro Casa Museo Victor Convento de la 578 accommodation 795, Hugo 476 836 Encarnación 81 Mosteiro de 578 Casa Museo de Ratón Convento de las Mosteiro de San Estevo climate 795 Perez 87 Descalzas Reales 80 598-9 drinking 838 Casa-Museo de Colón 175 Mosteiro de San Martiño festivals & events 835 Casa-Museo de Dulcinea Pinario 563 food 43, 795, 837 Map Pages 000 236 Mosteiro de San Pedro highlights 796 Photo Pages 000 Casa-Museo de Pizarro de Rocas 598 nightlife 838 612-13 921 Casa-Museo Manuel de Hospital de los Museo de la Guitarra 786 Museo del Teatro de Falla 727 Venerables Museo de la Industria Caesaraugusta 409 Casa Museu Dalí Sacerdotes 643 Chacinera 166 Museo del Teatro (Cadaqués) 359 Museo Arqueològic de Museo de la Paz de Romano 839 Casa Natal de Goya 412 Dénia 827 Gernika 459 Museo del Tratado de Casa Vicens 283 Museo Arqueológico Museo de la Pedra en Tordesillas 180 (Córdoba) 712 Castillo de San Jorge 648 Sec 822 Museo del Vino INDEX Centro Andaluz de Arte Museo Arqueológico Museo de la Rioja 497 (Requena) 817 Contemporáneo 649 (Elche) 833 Museo de las Ciencias Museo Diocesano 422 Centro Cerámica Triana Museo Arqueológico de Príncipe Felipe 799 Museo Diocesano M  648 Alicant 823 Museo de las Cortes de (Albarracín) 442 Centro de Arte Reina Museo Arqueológico Cádiz 673 Museo do Pobo Galego Sofía 91-3 Municipal 840 Museo de la Semana 563 Centro de Interpretación Museo Arqueológico Santa (Cuenca) 238 Museo Eloy Teno 229-30 de las Fortificaciones Nacional 105-6 Museo de la Viña y el Museo Etnográfico 182 de Pamplona 485 Museo Arqueológico y de Vino de Navarra 493 Museo Extremeño e Iber- Centro de Interpretación Historia de Elche 832 Museo de las Termas oamericano de Arte del Arte Rupestre de Museo Casa Natal de Públicas 409 Contemporáneo 630 Monfragüe 621 Miguel de Cervantes Museo de Miniaturas Museo Fallero 803 149 Centro de Interpretación Militares 422 Museo Gastronómico Judería de Sevilla 643 Museo Catedralicio Museo de Navarra 485 169 Diocesano 797 Centro de Interpretación Museo de Paleontología Museo Goya – Colección ‘Somiedo y El Oso’ 545 Museo Cervantino 236 (Cuenca) 239 Ibercaja 407 Centro de la Memoria Museo Conventual de las Museo de Pontevedra Museo Julio Romero de Sefardí 731 Descalzas 766 585-6 Torres 712 Centro de Lobo Ibérico Museo da Catedral 563 Museo de Prehistoria Museo Lázaro Galdiano de Castilla y León 184 Museo das y Arqueología de 105 Centro de Visitantes Los Peregrinacións e de Cantabria 507 Museo Marítimo Ría de Descubridores 612-13 Santiago 563 Museo de Saleros y Bilbao 450 Centro Didáctico de la Museo de Albarracín 442 Pimenteros 831 Museo Minero 667 Judería 169 Museo de Almería 786 Museo de San Gil 246 Museo Municipal de Arte Centro Flamenco Museo de Altamira 520-2 Museo de San Isidro 85 Contemporáneo 106-7 Fosforito 711-12 Museo de América 110 Museo de Santa Cruz Museo Nacional de Col·lecció de Carrosses Museo de Armería 481 220 Arqueología Fúnebres 294 Museo de Art Nouveau y Museo de Semana Santa Subacuática 839 CosmoCaixa 287 Art Decó 159 179, 182 Museo Nacional de Arte Cristóbal Balenciaga Museo de Arte Visigodo Museo de Teruel 440 Romano 623 Museoa 462 625 Museo de Textiles y Museo Nacional de Cueva-Exposición Museo de Artes y Orfebreria 221 Ciencia y Tecnología Cabrales 551 Costumbres Populares Museo de Zaragoza 408 575 Eco Museo 429 (Seville) 648 Museo del Baile Museo Nacional de Ecomuseu Delta de Museo de Bellas Artes Flamenco 647 Escultura 175 l’Ebre 400 (Seville) 647 Museo del Chocolate 194 Museo Nacional de Teatro 230 Espacio del Geoparque Museo de Bellas Artes Museo del Foro de de Sobrarbe 429 (Vitoria-Gasteiz) 481 Caesaraugusta 409 Museo Numantino 210 Espacio Torner 239 Museo de Bordados del Museo del Grabado de Museo Origami 408 Estación de Chamberí Paso Azul 842-3 Goya 412 Museo Parroquial 244 108 Museo de Bordados del Museo del Grabado Museo Provincial (Lugo) Euskal Museoa 449-50 Paso Blanco 843 Español 763 601 Fundació Joan Miró 288, Museo de Cáceres 607-8 Museo del Greco 220-1 Museo Ralli 762 291, 291 Museo de Cádiz 672 Museo del Jamón Museo Refugio de la Fundación Amantes Museo de Cuenca (Aracena) 668 Guerra Civil 839 438-40 239-40 Museo del Jamón Museo Romano 194 Fundación Rafael Museo de Epigrafía (Monastero) 629 Museo Sefardi 220 Alberti 677 (Sagunto) 815 Museo del Jurásico de Museo Sefardí Fundación Rodríguez- Museo de Euskal Herría Asturias 534 (Ribadavia) 597 Acosta 730-1 459 Museo del Orinal 163 Museo Thyssen- Gaudí Centre 400 Museo de Historia 106 Museo de los Concilios y Bornemisza 90-1 Gaudí Experience 283-6 Museo de Huelva 662 la Cultura Visigoda 221 Museo Volvo Ocean Gibraltar Museum 772 Museo de Huesca 414-15 Museo del Puerto Fluvial Race 823 Hospital de la Caridad Museo de la Evolución 409 Museu Blau 271-2 648 Humana 199 Museo del Queso 610 Museu Can Framis 271 922 museums continued Torre de El Salvador Parque Natural de las Palacio Ducal dels Museu d’Art de Girona (Teruel) 440 Bárdenas Reales 494 Borja 816 350-1 Torre del Oro 648 Parque Natural de las Palau de l’Almudaina Museu de Cadaqués 359 Vivanco 503 Lagunas de Ruidera 844 Museu de Cultures del Museu Nacional d’Art de 236-7 Palau de la Música Món 266-7 Catalunya 288, 291, 292 Parque Natural de Catalana 265 Somiedo 545 INDEX INDEX Museu de l’Empordà 363 Museu Picasso 268-9, 268 Palau March 844 Parque Natural Fragas Museu de Lleida 388 music 26-7 Panteón Real 191 do Eume 578 Museu de la Música 273 music festivals Plaza de Toros (Ronda) Parque Natural Sierra de 693 M-P 270 Concierto de las Velas 174  Andújar 778 Plaza Real de Toros 677 Museu de Tortosa 402 DCode 112 Parque Natural Sierra de Universidad Civil 157  Museu del Cau Ferrat Festival Internacional de Grazalema 690-3 Núria 371-3 389 Música 214 Parque Natural Sierras Museu del Disseny de Festival Internacional de de Cazorla, Segura y Barcelona 271 Santander 510 Las Villas 783-5 O Museu del Modernisme Festival Ópera Medinaceli Parque Natural del Cañón Olite 492-3 Barcelona 281-2 213-14 del Río Lobos 207 Olivenza 626-7 Museu del Palmerar 831 Jazz Madrid 112 Parque Natural Sierras Olot 366-7 Museu del Perfum 282 Primavera Sound 295 Subbéticas 717-18 Olvera 691-3 Museu dels Volcans 366 Sónar 295 Parque Regional de Oñati 478-9 Museu d’Història de Muslim Spain, see Moorish Sierra Espuña 846 Órgiva 745-7 Barcelona 258-9 Spain Upper Rock Nature Orihuela 834 Museu d’Història de Muxía 571-2 Reserve 771-2 Catalunya 271 natural parks, see national Oropesa 228 Museu d’Història de parks & reserves orujo 554 Girona 352-3 N Navarra 444-5, 483-96, orxata 813 Museu d’Història dels national parks & reserves 445 Ourense 594-6 55, 58, see also parks & Jueus 350 accommodation 444 Oviedo 526-32, gardens 527 Museu d’Història de climate 444 Tarragona 394 Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes i Estany food 444 Museu Egipci 281 P de Sant Maurici 378- highlights 445 Museu Etnològic 289 paella 44, 7 82, 376 travel seasons 444 Museu Frederic Marès Parc Natural de la Navarra Nerja 767-9 265 Alhambra 722-7 Zona Volcànica de la nightlife 27, see also Aljafería 407-8 Museu Marítim 271 Garrotxa 367-70 individual locations Casa de Pilatos 647, Museu Memorial de Parc Natural del Delta de notable buildings 11 l’Exili 365 Casa Palacio de Sada l’Ebre 399-400 Antigua Estación de 416 Museu Municipal (Llívia) Parc Natural dels Atocha 103 375 Museo Gustavo de Aiguamolls de Antigua Fábrica de Maeztu 495 Museu Nacional l’Empordà 358 Tabacos 649 Arqueològic de Palacio de Carvajal 607 Parque Nacional de Antigua Universidad 777 Tarragona 394 Doñana 664-5 Palacio de Dar-al-Horra Born Centre de Cultura i Museu Olímpic i de 731 Parque Nacional de Memòria 267-70 l’Esport 293 Monfragüe 621-2 Palacio de Jabalquinto Caixa Forum 102 Pabellón de la Parque Nacional de 776-7 Capilla Real 732 Navegación 649 Ordesa y Monte Palacio de la Condesa de Pagos del Rey 181 Perdido 425-7, 426, Casa Botines 191 Lebrija 646 Palacio de Viana 712 368-9 Casa de las Conchas 160 Palacio de la Magdalena Palacio de Parque Nacional Tablas Casa de los Navajas 761 507 Villardompardo 775 de Daimiel 234 Casa Museo Zenobia y Palacio de la Serna 230 Palacio Episcopal 194 Parque Natural de Cabo Juan Ramón Jiménez Palacio de Las Dueñas 664 Parque de la Prehistoria de Gata-Níjar 790-3, 643-6 (Senda del Oso) 544 791 Casas Colgadas 238 Palacio de los Duques de Plaza de Toros de la Real Parque Natural de Ermita de San Saturio San Carlos 612 Maestranza 647-8 Cazorla 781, 2 209 Palacio de los Golfines San Telmo Museoa 463 Parque Natural del Hoz Estación del Norte 803 de Abajo 607 Teatre-Museu Dalí 362 del Duratón 209 Gran Teatre del Palacio de l Parque Natural de la 262, 262 os Guzmán 679 Albufera 815 Hotel Alfonso XIII 649 Palacio de Parque Natural de la La Lonja 798 los Guzmanes 191 Map Pages 000 Breña y Marismas del La Pedrera 280-1 Palacio de los Marqueses Photo Pages 000 Barbate 699 Metropol Parasol 643 de la Algaba 649 923 Palacio de Orleans y Jardins de Cap Roig 341 Plaça Reial 264, 263 religion 849 Borbón 680 Jardins del Laberint planetariums 799 religious art museums Palacio de Santa María d’Horta 287-8 planning, see also Convento de Santa del Naranco 530 La Granja de San individual regions Clara 160 Palacio de Sobrellano Ildefonso 174 budgeting 20-1 Museo de San Francisco 522 Parc de Collserola 288 calendar of events 28-32 179

Palacio de Vázquez de 267 children, travel with 61-3 Museo del Retablo 199 INDEX Molina 779-80 Parc de la Creueta del internet resources 20-1 Museo Diocesano 186 Palacio del Partal 726, 12 Coll 288 itineraries 35-9 Rello 205 Palacio Ducal 213 Park Güell 283, 284-5 repeat visitors 24 Renfe, see train travel  P-R Palacio Episcopal 413 Parque de Cristina Enea Spain’s regions 64-8 Requena 817-18  Palacio Real (Aranjuez) 463 travel seasons 20-1, Reserva Natural de El 147 Parque de Doña Casilda 28-32 Hosquillo 243 Palacio Real (Madrid) 76 de Iturrizar 451 Plasencia 616-17 restaurants 41 Palacio Toledo- Parque de los Pueblos de Playa de la Concha 463, Reyes Católicos 856 Moctezuma 607, 19 Europa 459 342 Ría de Arousa 583-5 Palau Güell 265 Parque de María Luisa Plaza de España (Lorca) Ría de Pontevedra 588-9 Real Alcázar 637, 641-3 648 842 Ría de Vigo 589 Real Monasterio de San Parque del Buen Retiro Plaza de España 648-9, 3 Rías Altas 573-83 Lorenzo 146 93, 101 Plaza de Olavide 137 Rías Baixas 583-92, Palacio de la Serna 230 Parque del Oeste 110 583 Plaza de Toros 103-5 Ribadavia & the Ribeiro Palacio Ducal Parque do Castro 590 Wine Region 596-8 dels Borja 816 Península de la Plaza Mayor 77 Palacio Real Madridd 19, Magdalena 507 Plaza Mayor (Aínsa) 429 Ribadeo 582-3, 342-3 76, 19 Real Jardín Botánico Plaza Mayor (Salamanca) Ribadesella 535-6 Palafrugell 340 102-3 19, 157, 19 Ribeira Sacra 598-600 Parque Nacional de Ordesa 289, 290, Ribera del Duero 204-9 Palau de la Musica 265, 26 y Monte Perdido 425-7, 290 Palencia 186-7 Ribes de Freser 371-3 426, 368-9 politics 849 Pallars Sobirà 377-8 rice 809 Parque Natural de Cabo de Pontedeume 578 Riglos 416 Palos de la Frontera 663 Gata-Níjar 790-3, 791 Pontevedra 585-8, 586 Ripoll 371 Pals 349 Pasajes 476-7 population 849 road trips Pamplona 483-8, 484 Paseo del Arte 86 postal services 143, 888 Andalucía 689 accommodation 485-6 passports 893 Potes & the Liébana Valley Cantabria 515, 521 food 487 Pastrana 243-4 553-5 Cistercian Route 398 nightlife 487 Pedraza de la Sierra 174-9 Praia As Catedrais 582, El Meandro tourist information 487 pelota basque 474, 475 342-3, 525 del Melero 622 travel to/from 487-8 Peñafiel 205-6 Priego 243 Extremadura 620, 622 Parada de Sil 599 Penedès wine 393 Priorat 399 Las Hurdes 620 paragliding 59 Penedès Wine Country public art 160, 270, 482 rock climbing 53 Paraje Natural Torcal de 392-4 public holidays 888 Rodrigo Díaz 202 Antequera 767 Peñíscola 820 public transport 899 Roman history 851-2 Parc Nacional Peratallada 349-50 Puebla de Sanabria 185-6 d’Aigüestortes i Estany Romanesque churches percebes 42, 579, 580, 43 Puente la Reina 494-5 de Sant Maurici 378-82, 188, 382 379 Phoenicians 850-1 Puigcerdà 373-4 Roman ruins 852, see also phones, see telephone Pyrenees 16, 50-1, 365-85, archaeological sites, Park Güell 283, 284-5 services , , , ruins parks & gardens, see 16 28 51 368-9 Acueducto 168 also national parks & Picasso, Pablo 268-9, hiking 50-1, 431 gardens 873-4 mountain biking 429, 28 Acueducto de los Milagros 624 Anillo Verde 479-80 Picos de Europa 19, 51, rafting 431 546-56, 524, , , Arco de Trajano 625 Campo del Moro 79-80 547 7 Catalonia 366 19, 524 Arco Romano 213 Casa de Campo 102 Navarra 488-92 hiking 51 Barcelona 264 Casa del Rey Moro 695 internet resources 546 Barrio del Foro Romano Jardí Botànic 289 maps 546 R 839 Jardines & Paseo de tourist information 546-7 rafting 59, 60, 49 Casa de la Fortuna 839 Pereda 509 travel to/from 547 rail passes 895 Casa del Mitreo 624 Jardines de Las Vistillas 84 pilgrim hostels 55 rail travel, see train travel Casa dos Mosaicos 601 Jardines de Sabatini 76 pintxos 13, 454, 471, 13, 23 Real Casino de Murcia 835 Circo Romano (Mérida) 623-4 Jardines del Turia 803 Bilbao 454, 455 refunds 888 San Sebastián 471 Reinosa 516-19 Julióbriga 517-18 924 Roman ruins continued nightlife 472 sherry 44 T Numancia 210 pintxos 471 Sierra de Alcaraz 237-8 tabancos 24, 685 Pretori i Circ Romans shopping 472-3 Sierra de Béjar 167-8 Talavera de la Reina 227-8 395 tourist information 473 Sierra de Francia 164-6 Tamariu 346-7 Roman Walls (Lugo) 600 travel to/from 473 Sierra de Guadarrama 150 tapas 15, 48, 837, 15, 23, Teatro Romano (Mérida) travel within 473-6 Sierra de la Culebra 184-5 40, see also pintxos, INDEX INDEX 623 San Vicente de la Barquera Sierra de Urbión 212 individual locations Temple Romà 385 523-6 Sierra Nevada 742-3, tours 121, 787 Templo de Diana 625 Sanfermines 486, 474-5 744, 54 Tarazona 412-14

R-T Villa Romana Sanlúcar de Sierra Pobre 150 Tarifa 700-4, 59  La Dehesa 210 Barrameda 679-81 Sigüenza 244-6, 245 Tarragona 394-9, 396-7  Villa Romana Sant Joan de les Siresa 419 tourist information 397 La Olmeda 187 Abadesses 372 Sitges 389-92, 391 traveling to/from 397 Yacimiento Arqueologico Sant Martí d’Empúries 358 de Tiermes 208 skiing 57, 56 Taüll 381-2 Sant Mateu 820-1 Yacimiento Romano de Catalonia 384 taxes 888 Sant Sadurní d’Anoia 392 Cáparra 619 Sierra Nevada 742 taxis 899 Santa Cruz de la Serós Romería del Rocío 666 telephone services 20, 889 421-2 snowboarding 57 Teresa de Cepeda y Ronda 693-7, 694 Santa Pau 370 Somontano Wine Region 436-7 Ahumada 156 ruins, see also Roman Santa Teresa 156 ruins Soria 209-11 Teruel 438-42, 439, 434-5 Santander 507-13, 508 Castillo de Sos del Rey Católico 416- teterías 748, 749 Centro Botín 507 Calatañazor 211 18, 435, 435 Granada 739 Santiago de Compostela Monasterio de San Juan Sotres 553 theft 889 de Duero 209-10 67, 557-68, 558, 560 Spain basics 20-1 theme parks 62-3 Monasterio de San Pedro Santillana del Mar 519-20 Spanish Civil War 861-4 thermal pools Santo Domingo de la de Arlanza 203 Gernika 460 Calzada 500-1 Banys d’Arties 384 Muralla Púnica 839 Refugios de la Guerra Santoña 513-14 Ourense 595 Museo del Teatro Civil 786 scams 888-9 time 890 Romano 839 Spanish colonialism 857 sea travel, see boat travel tipping 23 Temple d’August 264 Spanish Inquisition 858 Segovia 168-74, toilets 890 Templo de Debod 107 170-1 spas Segura de la Sierra 784-5 Toledo 65, 215-27, 216, Russafa 806 Aire De Barcelona 294 Ruta do Litoral 572-3 Selva de Oza 419-20 218-19 Madrid 111 accommodation 215 Semana Santa 18, 18, Resort Balneario de climate 215 see also individual Panticosa 424 S locations food 215 Sacromonte 735 stadiums Senda del Oso 541-5 highlights 216, 216 safety 888-9 Estadi Olímpic Lluís Sepúlveda 206-7 travel seasons 215 Sagués 469 Companys 289 Serra del Cadí 376 walking tour 223, 223 Sagunto 815-16 Estadio San Mamés Serranía de Cuenca 243 (Bilbao) 451 tomato festival, see La Sahagún 196-7 Setenil de las Bodegas 693 stand-up paddling 60 Tomatina Salamanca 19, 157-62, Seville 11, 633-59, 640, statues & monuments Tordesillas 180 158, 19 644-5, 11 Torla 427-8 Salardú 384 Don Quijote 233 accommodation 651-3 Toro 180-1 San Andrés de Teixido 580 Monumento al Sagrado activities 633, 650 Corazón (Oviedo) 530 Torremolinos 760-2 San Juan courses 650 Torres de Quart 802 de Gaztelugatxe 462 Museo al Aire Libre 105 cycling 650 Tortosa 401-2 San Lorenzo de Oviedo 528 El Escorial 146-7 entertainment 656-7 Peine del Viento 466-7 Tossa de Mar 339-40 San Martín festivals & events 651 Puerta de Alcalá 102 tourist information 890 del Castañar 165 food 653-6 surfing 57-9, 57 tours, see also bicycle tours, walking tours San Millán de Cogolla 500 nightlife 656 swimming Barcelona 295 San Sebastián 13, 463-73, shopping 657-8 Club Natació 464-5, 342 sights 636-49 Atlètic-Barcelona 294 Bilbao 447 entertainment 472 tourist information 657-8 Piscines Bernat Extremadura 621 food 13, 469-72 tours 650-1 Picornell 294 food 111, 121, 166, 167 travel to/from 658 synagogues wildlife-watching 184, 543 travel within 658-9 Sinagoga del Agua 779 train travel 895, 899-901, Map Pages 000 636-43, Sinagoga del 900 Tránsito 220 trams 899 Photo Pages 000 638-9, 638, 639 925 transport 893-901 Upper Benasque Valley Mirador San Nicolás 731 windsurfing 59, 59 travel seasons 20-1 432-3 Salamanca 159 Andalucía 751 travel to/from Spain 893-6 Uxama 207 Segovia 169 Tarifa 701-2 travel within Spain 896-901 Toledo 221 wine 44 language 906-7 V Zamora 182 Catalonia 393 Tren de la Fresa vacations 888 Vigo 589-92 classifications 44 (Strawberry Train) 148 Val d’Aran 382-4 Vilafranca del Cid 822 Galicia 589 INDEX Trevélez 747-50 Valencia 68, 795-814, 796, Vilafranca del Penedès Penedès 393 Trujillo 611-14 800-1, 804 392-3 sherry 44 accommodation 613-14 accommodation 804 Villanueva de los Toro 24  T-Z Infantes 237, 233  food 614 activities 803 wine festivals 597 Villaviciosa 534-5 tourist information 614 climate 795 wine museums 24 Villena 833-4 tours 613 courses 803 wineries visas 20, 891 travel to/from 614 drinking & nightlife Convento de Las Claras travel within 614 812-13 Visigoths 852 205 Tui 594 entertainment 813 Vitoria-Gasteiz 479-83, Legaris 205 tunnels food 43, 795, 807, 809 480 Matarromera 205 Refugios de la Guerra highlights 796 art 482 Protos 205-6 Civil 786 nightlife 812-13 food 482-3 Versos Microbodega 165 Túneles de Alfonso VIII shopping 813-14 nightlife 483 wolves 184, 542-3, 542-3 238-9 sights 797-803 tourist information 483 women travellers 892 tourist information 814 travel to/from 483 work 892 U travel seasons 795 travel within 483 Úbeda 779-81 Viveiro 581-2 travel to/from 814 X Ujué 493-4 volunteering 892 travel within 814 Xàbia 828-9 Unesco World Heritage walking tours 810, 810 Xàtiva 817-18 sites Vall de Núria, see Núria W Altamira 524 Valladolid 175-9, 176-7 walking 50-55 see also Antequera Dolmens Valle de Bujaruelo 428 Camino de Santiago, Y Site 765 hiking Yanguas 212-13 Valle de Tena 424-5 Atapuerca 201 Aragón 425 Valle de Zuriza 421, 51 Baeza 776-9 Cáceres 608 Valle del Ambroz 619-21 Z Camino de Santiago Camí de Ronda 340 Zafra 627-9 51-55 Valle del Aragón 423-4 Camiño dos Faros 570 Zahara de la Sierra 691 Catedral (Burgos) 198 Valles de Hecho & Ansó 418-21 Punta Sarridal 579 Zamora 181-4 Covalanas 524 Válor 745 Sant Mateu 821 Zaragoza 405-12, 406, Cuevas de Monte Toledo 221 Castillo 513 Vejer de la Frontera 24, 434-5 697-9 Valencia 810 accommodation 408-9 Elche 831-33 Velázquez, Diego Rodríguez walking tours food 409-10 La Lonja 798 de Silva 87, 96, 872 Barcelona 295, 318, 318 nightlife 410-11 Monte Castillo 524 via ferrate 24 Bilbao 452, 452 sights 405-8 Museu d’Història de Vías Verdes 57 Tarragona 394 Madrid 100, 111, 100 tourist information 411 Vía Verde del Aceite 718 Palau de la Música Toledo 223, 223 travel to/from 411-12 Catalana 265 Vía Verde de la Sierra weather 20, 28-32, 20, see travel within 412 692 Paraje Natural Torcal de also individual regions ziplining 222 Antequera 767 Vic 385 whale watching 701 zoos Puente Colgante 451 Vielha 382-3 white-water rafting 56, Bioparc 762, 803 Real Monasterio de viewpoints 60, 49 Centro de Lobo Ibérico Santa María de Ávila 152 wildlife 27, 542-3 de Castilla y León 184 Guadalupe 615 Cap de Sant Sebastià wildlife sanctuaries Parque de la Naturaleza Recinte Modernista de 346 Centre de Reproducció Cabárceno 513 Sant Pau 281 Faro de Madrid 109 de Tortugues de Zoo de Barcelona 270 Segovia 168-74 Mirador de Colom 263, l’Albera 364 Zuheros 717 Úbeda 779-81 272-3, 263 Cercado Osero 544 Zurbarán, Francisco de 872 Vall de Boí 382 Mirador de Madrid 102 windmills 233, 232-3 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 926

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/ Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Eating S-Bahn/Subway station Glacier Taxi Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Park/Forest Cafe Tram Tube station Sight (Building) Entertainment U-Bahn/Underground station Sportsground Entertainment Other Transport Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Isabella Noble Andorra, Cádiz Province, Catalonia, Formentera, Gibraltar, Ibiza, Menorca Eng- lish-Australian on paper but Spanish at heart, Isabella has been wandering the globe since her first round-the-world trip as a one-year-old. Having grown up in a white- washed Andalucian village, she is a Spain specialist travel journalist, but also writes extensively about India, Thailand, the UK and beyond for Lonely Planet, the Daily Telegraph and others. Find Isabella on Twitter and Instagram @isabellamnoble.

John Noble Aragón, Córdoba Province, Galicia, Jaén Province John has been travelling for Lonely Planet since the 1980s. The number of LP titles he’s written is well into three figures, on numerous countries scattered across the globe. He’s still as excited as ever about unfamiliar destinations. Above all, he loves mountains, from the Pyrenees to the Himalaya. See his pics on Instagram: @johnnoble11. John also contributed to the Understand section of this book.

Josephine Quintero Castilla-La Mancha Josephine launched her journalism degree at a wine and life- style magazine followed, ironically, with a move to ‘dry’ Kuwait where she worked as the Editor of the Kuwaiti Digest until the day Iraq invaded. After six weeks as a hostage, Josephine moved to the relaxed shores of Andalucía in southern Spain. Josephine has worked as a ghostwriter for crooks and minor celebrities, while also regulalry writing for in-flight magazines and Lonely Planet. She primarily covers Spain and Italy; other titles include Mexico City, Australia, Portugal and Mediterranean Europe.

Brendan Sainsbury Málaga Province, Andalucía Born and raised in the UK, Brendan didn’t leave Blighty until he was 19. He’s since squeezed 70 countries into a sometimes pre- carious existence as a writer and professional vagabond. He has written over 40 books for Lonely Planet from Castro’s Cuba to the canyons of Peru. When not scribbling research notes, Brendan likes partaking in ridiculous ‘endurance’ races, strumming old Clash songs on the guitar, and experiencing the pleasure and pain of following Southampton Football Club.

Regis St Louis Basque Country, La Rioja, Navarra Regis grew up in a small town in the American Midwest – the kind of place that fuels big dreams of travel – and he developed an early fascination with foreign dialects and world cultures. He spent his formative years learning Russian and a handful of Romance languages, which served him well on journeys across much of the globe. Regis has contributed to more than 50 Lonely Planet titles, covering destinations across six continents. His travels have taken him from the mountains of Kamchatka to remote island villages in Melanesia, and to many grand urban landscapes. When not on the road, he lives in New Orleans.

Andy Symington Valencia & Murcia Andy has written or worked on over a hundred books and other updates for Lonely Planet (especially in Europe and Latin America) and other pub- lishing companies, and has published articles on numerous subjects for a variety of newspapers, magazines and websites. He part-owns and operates a rock bar, has written a novel and is currently working on several fiction and non-fiction writing projects. Andy, from Australia, moved to Northern Spain many years ago. When he’s not off with a backpack in some far-flung corner of the world, he can probably be found watching the local football side or tasting local wines after a long walk in the nearby mountains.

Contributing Writers Esme Fox contributed to the Barcelona chapter. AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Gregor Clark Asturias, Cantabria, Huelva Province, Picos de Europa Gregor is a US-based writer whose love of languages and curiosity about what’s around the next bend have tak- en him to dozens of countries on five continents. Since 2000, Gregor has contribut- ed to Lonely Planet guides, with a focus on Europe and the Americas. Titles include France, Portugal and Mexico, among many others. Gregor has lived in California, France, Spain and Italy prior to settling with his wife and two daughters in Vermont.

Sally Davies Barcelona Sally landed in Seville in 1992 with a handful of pesetas and five words of Spanish, and, despite a complete inability to communicate, promptly snared a lucrative number handing out leaflets at Expo ’92. In 2001 she settled in Barce- lona, where her daily grind involves nose-to-tail eating, getting lost in museums and finding ways to convey the beauty of this spectacular city.

Duncan Garwood Almería Province, Granada Province, Seville From facing fast bowlers in Barba- dos to sidestepping hungry pigs in Goa, Duncan’s travels have thrown up many unique experiences. These days he largely dedicates himself to Spain and Italy, where he’s been living since 1997. He’s worked on more than 30 Lonely Planet titles, covering Rome, Sardinia, Sicily, Bilbao and San Sebastián, among others, and has contributed to books on food and epic drives.

Anthony Ham Castilla y León, Extremadura, Madrid & Around Anthony is a writer and pho- tographer who specialises in Spain, East and Southern Africa, the Arctic and the Middle East. In 2001, after years of wandering the world, Anthony fell irretrieva- bly in love with Madrid. When he finally left ten years later, he was married to a local and Madrid had beocme his second home. Now back in Australia, he con- tinues to travel in search of stories. Anthony also contributed to the Plan Your Trip and Survival Guide sections of this book.

Catherine Le Nevez Barcelona Catherine’s wanderlust kicked in when she roadtripped across Eu- rope from her Parisian base aged four, and she’s been hitting the road at every opportunity since, travelling to around 60 countries and completing her Doc- torate of Creative Arts in Writing, Masters in Professional Writing, and postgrad qualifications in Editing and Publishing along the way. She’s written scores of Lonely Planet guides and articles covering Paris, France, Europe and beyond.

OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 12th edition – November 2013 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 2 660 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs © as indicated 2018 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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