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Home , Jelly doughnut, Niboshi, Sufganiyah

FEATURE

LUSSEKATTER (Makes 16) is the hand-harvested red stamens of the saffron crocus and has a reputation for being the world’s most expensive spice. Sweet &Savoury Luckily, a little goes a long way! Look for whole thread saffron (as opposed to pre-ground) with few or TRADITIONS no yellow threads. Store it in a dark, air-tight container. If you wish, you can add more saffron to the recipe Celebrating the people and dishes contributing to our community table (up to a good pinch or so) for a more vibrant yellow crumb. This recipe provides instructions to make aterloo Region is a far cry from who wore a candlelit wreath on her head julgalt (the Christmas pig), but you what it was 200 years ago, but as she took to Christians hiding in can find other shapes online. one thing remains constant: from Jasmine the catacombs became part of Jól. While the indigenous community to Mangalaseril distinct Lucia celebrations were first held Buns thoseW who’ve chosen to make this place in the mid-18th century, modern festivities 115 ml (7½ tablespoons) butter, home, our kitchens are steeped with took root about 100 years ago. cubed memories and traditions. Today on Dec. 13th, the eldest daughter 310 ml (1¼ cups) milk Today, many of us come from all four Jól was an important pre-Christian gets up early and dresses as Lucia in a white 12 threads saffron (or more, to corners of the world — almost half are first- Scandinavian solstice festival meant to robe tied with a red sash and a wreath-like taste), crumbled or ground or second-generation Canadian, and close rouse the sun and chase away the darkness. crown adorned with lit candles. She wakes 3.75 ml (¾ teaspoon) ground to one-quarter are immigrants. We bring To stop supernatural beings from causing her family by singing the Lucia Song and (seeds from 12 pods) with us memories of the places and people mischief on the longest night of the year in serves a breakfast of coffee, lussekatter and 11 ml (2¼ teaspoons) dry active we’ve left behind and the people we’ve met. the old Julian Calendar, bonfires were lit, pepparakakor (gingernut cookies). Each yeast (not rapid rise or pizza yeast) In a series of articles, I will explore the mummers performed, and young people community also has a designated Lucia who (2 sachets) people and the dishes that contribute to our would carol door-to-door. Carollers and leads a procession of handmaidens and star 1 egg, beaten community table, beginning with this look mummers received lussekatter (saffron boys to visit schools, seniors’ homes and 125 ml (½ cup) at holiday food traditions in Sweden, buns, recipe follows) because it was churches to sing and hand out treats. 5 ml (1 teaspoon) salt and Japan. believed their sunshine colour would scare Buns and yeasted cakes spiced with 1 litre (4 cups) all-purpose flour away a malevolent spirit named Lusse or cardamom or are popular 32 raisins, plumped in water Sweden: Saint Lucia’s Day Lussi, or they were offered in exchange for throughout the year but, in December, Pearl sugar (optional) festival of light breaks Sweden’s long, her mercy. lussekatter are part of the holiday baking. dark winter on Dec. 13 and celebrates The festivities also included feasting, Made from coiled or knotted ropes of Egg wash A Saint Lucia. While her feast day is drinking and gift-giving. dough, these saffron buns are shaped to 1 egg, beaten observed around the world, “The Swedish Christian missionaries brought tales of represent various animals, objects and 30 ml (2 tablespoons) milk or Festival of Lights” mixes ancient Jól (Yule) Lucia of Syracuse to Viking Age Sweden, people. cream festivities with Christian motifs. and soon references to the young woman cont’d on next page

110 GRAND NOVEMBER I DECEMBER 2018 1. Dissolve the yeast and one-half teaspoon of sugar in the milk. As it froths, Glaze (optional) Israel: cream the butter, sugar and salt in a separate bowl; beat in the egg yolks and 15 ml (1 tablespoon) sugar n the second century BCE, when vanilla. 30 ml (2 tablespoons) water the Seleucids (Syrian-Greeks) ruled 2. Pour the yeast mixture into the butter IJerusalem, Jewish customs were made and combine. Beat in the flour then knead 1. Heat milk, butter, saffron and illegal and were forced to accept Greek for 10 minutes (using a stand mixture). The cardamom (if using) until the butter melts. culture and beliefs. dough should be firm, slightly tacky, and Cool until hand-hot and then stir in yeast. After the , the re- not stick to the sides of the bowl. 2. Combine egg and sugar in a bowl. Mix dedication of the Holy Temple in 3. Place the dough in a buttered bowl and in the yeasty-milk mixture. Add the flour required the menorah to burn day and cover. Let rise until doubled in volume — and knead for 10 minutes (using a stand night. They only had one day’s worth of you can either do this by placing the bowl mixer). The dough should be soft, tacky purified oil, but that small amount lasted in the refrigerator overnight OR place the and not stick to the sides of the bowl. eight days — long enough to get more oil. bowl in a warm, draft-free spot for about 3. Cover the bowl and let stand at room Today, Jews commemorate the miracle 1¼ hours. temperature until the dough has doubled in of the oil during Hanukkah, an eight-day 4. If the dough is coming out of the volume, about 20 to 40 minutes. festival that begins on the 25th day of the fridge, let the bowl sit at room temperature 4. Line two baking trays with parchment Hebrew month of Kislev, usually falling in for about 30 minutes before making the paper. Divide the dough into 16 pieces. December. sufganiyot. Turn the dough onto a lightly To shape: roll a piece to a 30 cm (12-inch) For each of eight nights, the hanukkiah floured surface and gently roll out to 6 length, and curl both ends so the pastry is (a nine-branched menorah) is lit — the mm (¼-inch) thickness. Cut with a 5 cm shaped like an S. Place on prepared baking ninth branch holds “the helper” candle, (two-inch) round pastry cutter. Gather tray, leaving about 5 cm (2 inches) between which is used to light the others. After and re-roll scraps and cut remaining discs. buns. Poke a raisin in the centre of each sundown, another candle is added and lit Let rise until doubled in size, about 30 coil. Let the buns double in size, about 20 as two blessings are recited or chanted: minutes. minutes one is a blessing over the candles, and the 5. Line one tray with a double layer of 5. Preheat the oven to 400 F (205°C) and other gives thanks for the deliverance. A paper towels and place a wire rack on make the egg wash by mixing the egg with third blessing, usually said during joyous top. Heat 5 cm (2 inches) of oil in a heavy the milk. occasions, is recited on the first night. bottomed pot to 195 C (385 F). 6. Poke the raisins back into the coils, in To remind others of the miracle, many 6. Carefully lower the discs into the oil, case they popped out during the rise. Brush display the menorah in their window. After being careful to not overcrowd the pot — with egg wash and sprinkle with pearl sugar the candle-lighting ceremony, families teach there should be at least 2 to 3 cm (about (if using). Bake for 18 to 20 minutes, until children about the celebration, play games, one inch) between the . The golden. sing songs and give gifts. Observances discs will sink and then rise. After they rise, 7. To add shine, heat the glaze ingredients usually take place at home, but some com- carefully flip them onto the second side. together and brush on the buns as soon as munities hold public lighting ceremonies. 7. Turn them every 10 to 15 seconds until SUFGANIYOT they’ve come out of the oven. Cool on a Eating fried food on Hanukkah is an evolved into pastries such as berliners yeast or pizza yeast) (1 sachet) both sides are golden brown; each batch wire rack. ancient tradition that refers to the miracle and p¸aczki. In , ponchiks were (Makes 36) 125 ml (½ cup) sugar will take two minutes (or less) to cook. Prep time: 1¼ hours of the oil. While Ashkenazi Jews in Eastern Hanukkah treats. They were taken to Israel, Sufganiyot are round jam-filled doughnuts 38 ml (2½ tablespoons) soft butter Remove and cool on the wire rack. Return Cook time: 20 minutes often serve ( ), and later renamed “sufganiyot” (“suf- fried in oil. A red jam, such as strawberry, 2.5 ml (½ teaspoon) salt the oil to temperature between batches. the Mediterranean region’s Sephardic Jews ganiyah” is the singular), referring to the is often used, but feel free to use your 2 egg yolks 8. When cool enough to handle, bore Where to find ingredients locally have sufganiyot (stuffed or filled deep-fried “spongy dough” referred to in the . favourite. If the won’t flip over 5 ml (1 teaspoon) vanilla a small hole into each with • Ayres Bulk Food, Waterloo: cardamom, yeasted dough fritters, recipe follows). after it rises to the top, an air bubble may 585 ml (21/3 cups) all-purpose flour (or a paring knife, and then, using a pastry saffron Savoury versions can be stuffed with meat, be the culprit — simply lift the pastry out more, as needed) injector or a coffee spoon, fill with a • Many large grocers: cardamom, saffron , mushrooms and lentils, but it’s of the oil, pop the bubble with the tip of a 190 ml (¾ cup) jam OR jelly (or more, as teaspoon of jam (or as much as the • Vincenzo’s, Waterloo: cardamom, pearl the sweet ones — doughnuts filled with sharp knife and return it to the pot. needed) doughnut will hold). Roll in sugar and sugar, saffron jam, , chocolate cream and even 1.5 litres (6 cups) peanut oil OR flavour- serve. dulce de leche — that are Israeli favourites. 140 ml (½ cup + 1 tablespoon) hand-hot less oil suitable for deep frying (as needed) Prep time: about 2¼ hours (including The first recipe appeared milk (or more, as needed) Icing sugar or castor sugar for rolling rising time) in the 16th century. Over time, the recipe 5.5 ml dry active yeast (not rapid rise Cook time: 30 minutes

112 GRAND NOVEMBER I DECEMBER 2018 NOVEMBER I DECEMBER 2018 GRAND 113 JAPAN: OMISOKA

ust like New Year’s Eve in Canada, Japan celebrates the passing of the old year and Jwelcomes the incoming year’s potential on Dec. 31. After bonenkai (forget-the-year parties) are thrown and appreciation gifts, known as oseibo, are given, many prepare for Omisoka (the last day of the year) with a meticulous house cleaning. The grand cleaning ensures the new year arrives free from the outgoing year’s dust and clutter. Afterwards, decora- tions are put up to welcome ancestral spirits and to encourage good fortune. Since it’s unlucky to cook on the first three days of the year, many prepare traditional new year called -ryori on the last day of the year. There are parties and gatherings and many Japanese watch a music contest called “NHK Kohaku Uta Gassen.” Before midnight, Buddhist temples perform “joya no kane” by tolling the temple bell once for each of the 108 causes of human suffering (such as envy, irresponsibility and stubbornness). With each chime, a sin is left behind in the old year, giving the new year a fresh start. The tradition of eating soba (buckwheat noodles) on New Year’s Eve began about 800 years ago when a Buddhist temple gave soba to the poor on the last day of the year. Within a few hundred years, eating toshikoshi-soba (“year-end noodles,” recipe follows) on the day before the new year was firmly established. Soba noodles were available in many parts of Japan, but in some areas — like Kyoto — the tradition was established by eating wheat flour udon noodles. Soba noodles’ rich symbolism includes a long and peaceful life, resiliency and wealth. Having them before midnight on Dec. 31 en- courages a good start to the new year: since the noodles are easily bitten through, eating them represents cutting off the old year’s misfortune. Many traditional toshikoshi-soba toppings also have auspicious meanings: shrimp for longevity, for prosperity through children and kamaboko (cured and steamed fish cake) for good omens.

114 GRAND NOVEMBER I DECEMBER 2018 TOSHIKOSHI-SOBA (YEAR-END NOODLES) ¼-inch); see notes

(Makes 4 servings) 1. Line one tray with a double layer of stock is a key ingredient in many paper towels. Place a wire rack on a second Japanese dishes and is easy to make from tray. Set aside. scratch (you can find recipes online). 2. Heat the peanut oil in a large heavy However, instant powder is also found bottomed pot or wok until it reaches 170 C in local shops. Dashi can be made from (340 F). kombu (dried kelp/sea tangle), katsuobushi 3. When the oil reaches 165 C (330 F), (dried and smoked skipjack flakes), mix the egg with club soda in a jug or small iriko/niboshi (anchovies/sardine), or a bowl and set aside. In a separate bowl, sift combination of these ingredients. Vegan together the flour and cornstarch. Make a dashi can be made from dried shiitake powder, kamaboko well in the centre, add the eggy mixture, mushrooms. Information about where to • LCBO: Sake and stir lightly with a fork until just find ingredients follows the recipe. • Supercentre (or many large grocers): combined. It’s OK if there are a few flour buckwheat noodles, , shichimi pockets. 1.2 litres (4¾ cups) dashi, (preferably togarashi 4. The batter should be about as thick as made with katsuobushi and kombu/sea • Vincenzo’s, Waterloo: instant dashi stock cream — you can adjust the consistency tangle) OR shiitake mushroom stock powder, mirin, shichimi togarashi by adding a little more soda water or flour 70 ml (4 tablespoons + 2 teaspoons) light as required. Add an ice cube to keep the KAKIAGE batter cold. As you cook the batches, you 70 ml (4 tablespoons + 2 teaspoons) mirin (Makes 4 servings) may need to add ice and readjust the batter. 70 ml (4 tablespoons + 2 teaspoons) sake Kakiage (pronounced ka-kee-ya-geh) is 5. Add the oil when the oil reaches 400 g (4 bundles) soba noodles a popular accompaniment to soba 170 C (340 F). (buckwheat noodles), cooked to 30 soup in the Kansai region (western Japan). 6. Combine the shrimp and vegetables; seconds to a minute less than indicated This binds thin strips of vegetables coat well in the batter. on packet instructions, drained and chopped seafood in an egg-enriched 7. Make the fritters by scooping up a 3 to 4 green , finely sliced (green tempura batter. The coating needs to couple spoonfuls of coated vegetables; let and white parts) be thick enough to keep the vegetables the excess batter drip off. Hold the cluster together without being claggy and light together with chopsticks or heatproof tongs Toppings (optional) enough so only the lightest wisp covers and slowly lower the vegetables into the 12 to 16 slices kamaboko (cured and the vegetables. An ice-cold batter helps to hot oil. Deep fry until lightly golden and steamed fish cake) ensure crispness when it hits the hot oil. cooked through, about three minutes per Shichimi togarashi (Japanese seven side. spice), to taste 1.5 litres (6 cups) peanut oil OR flavour- 8. Remove and drain on the paper towels Kakiage (recipe follows) less oil suitable for deep frying before transferring to the wire rack (the 1. Combine dashi, light soy sauce, mirin 250 ml (1 cup) cake flour (or more, as airflow underneath will help the fritters and sake in a pot, and boil for about 15 needed) remain crispy). Return the oil to tempera- minutes. 60 ml (¼ cup) cornstarch ture between batches. Serve immediately. 2. Divide the soba noodles between four 1 egg, well beaten Prep time: 15 minutes large soup bowls and pour the hot broth 250 ml (1 cup) very cold club soda (or Cook time: 30 minutes over top. Sprinkle with green onions and more, as needed) Notes: add toppings, if using. 125 ml (½ cup) ice cubes, as needed • Use a mix of firm vegetables, such as Prep time: 5 minutes 30 ml (2 tablespoons) sesame oil carrots, green beans, onions, parsnips and Cook time: 15 minutes 100 g (3½ oz.) peeled and deveined raw sweet potatoes. Where to find ingredients locally shrimp, roughly chopped • To reheat leftovers, re-dip the fritters in • K-W Korean Food Market, Kitchener: 400 g (14¼ oz.) vegetables, cut into hot oil for about 30 seconds to crisp them bonito, kombu/sea tangle, instant dashi 5-cm-long, 6-mm-wide strips (2 inches by up again.

116 GRAND NOVEMBER I DECEMBER 2018