FEATURE LUSSEKATTER (Makes 16) Saffron is the hand-harvested red stamens of the saffron crocus and has a reputation for being the world’s most expensive spice. Sweet &Savoury Luckily, a little goes a long way! Look for whole thread saffron (as opposed to pre-ground) with few or TRADITIONS no yellow threads. Store it in a dark, air-tight container. If you wish, you can add more saffron to the recipe Celebrating the people and dishes contributing to our community table (up to a good pinch or so) for a more vibrant yellow crumb. This recipe provides instructions to make aterloo Region is a far cry from who wore a candlelit wreath on her head julgalt (the Christmas pig), but you what it was 200 years ago, but as she took food to Christians hiding in can find other shapes online. one thing remains constant: from Jasmine the catacombs became part of Jól. While the indigenous community to Mangalaseril distinct Lucia celebrations were first held Buns Wthose who’ve chosen to make this place in the mid-18th century, modern festivities 115 ml (7½ tablespoons) butter, home, our kitchens are steeped with took root about 100 years ago. cubed memories and traditions. Today on Dec. 13th, the eldest daughter 310 ml (1¼ cups) milk Today, many of us come from all four Jól was an important pre-Christian gets up early and dresses as Lucia in a white 12 threads saffron (or more, to corners of the world — almost half are first- Scandinavian solstice festival meant to robe tied with a red sash and a wreath-like taste), crumbled or ground or second-generation Canadian, and close rouse the sun and chase away the darkness. crown adorned with lit candles. She wakes 3.75 ml (¾ teaspoon) ground to one-quarter are immigrants. We bring To stop supernatural beings from causing her family by singing the Lucia Song and cardamom (seeds from 12 pods) with us memories of the places and people mischief on the longest night of the year in serves a breakfast of coffee, lussekatter and 11 ml (2¼ teaspoons) dry active we’ve left behind and the people we’ve met. the old Julian Calendar, bonfires were lit, pepparakakor (gingernut cookies). Each yeast (not rapid rise or pizza yeast) In a series of articles, I will explore the mummers performed, and young people community also has a designated Lucia who (2 sachets) people and the dishes that contribute to our would carol door-to-door. Carollers and leads a procession of handmaidens and star 1 egg, beaten community table, beginning with this look mummers received lussekatter (saffron boys to visit schools, seniors’ homes and 125 ml (½ cup) sugar at holiday food traditions in Sweden, Israel buns, recipe follows) because it was churches to sing and hand out treats. 5 ml (1 teaspoon) salt and Japan. believed their sunshine colour would scare Buns and yeasted cakes spiced with 1 litre (4 cups) all-purpose flour away a malevolent spirit named Lusse or cardamom or cinnamon are popular 32 raisins, plumped in water SWEDEN: SAINT LUCIA’S DAY Lussi, or they were offered in exchange for throughout the year but, in December, Pearl sugar (optional) festival of light breaks Sweden’s long, her mercy. lussekatter are part of the holiday baking. dark winter on Dec. 13 and celebrates The festivities also included feasting, Made from coiled or knotted ropes of Egg wash A Saint Lucia. While her feast day is drinking and gift-giving. dough, these saffron buns are shaped to 1 egg, beaten observed around the world, “The Swedish Christian missionaries brought tales of represent various animals, objects and 30 ml (2 tablespoons) milk or Festival of Lights” mixes ancient Jól (Yule) Lucia of Syracuse to Viking Age Sweden, people. cream festivities with Christian motifs. and soon references to the young woman cont’d on next page 110 GRAND NOVEMBER I DECEMBER 2018 1. Dissolve the yeast and one-half teaspoon of sugar in the milk. As it froths, Glaze (optional) ISRAEL: HANUKKAH cream the butter, sugar and salt in a separate bowl; beat in the egg yolks and 15 ml (1 tablespoon) sugar n the second century BCE, when vanilla. 30 ml (2 tablespoons) water the Seleucids (Syrian-Greeks) ruled 2. Pour the yeast mixture into the butter IJerusalem, Jewish customs were made and combine. Beat in the flour then knead 1. Heat milk, butter, saffron and illegal and Jews were forced to accept Greek for 10 minutes (using a stand mixture). The cardamom (if using) until the butter melts. culture and beliefs. dough should be firm, slightly tacky, and Cool until hand-hot and then stir in yeast. After the Maccabean Revolt, the re- not stick to the sides of the bowl. 2. Combine egg and sugar in a bowl. Mix dedication of the Holy Temple in Jerusalem 3. Place the dough in a buttered bowl and in the yeasty-milk mixture. Add the flour required the menorah to burn day and cover. Let rise until doubled in volume — and knead for 10 minutes (using a stand night. They only had one day’s worth of you can either do this by placing the bowl mixer). The dough should be soft, tacky purified oil, but that small amount lasted in the refrigerator overnight OR place the and not stick to the sides of the bowl. eight days — long enough to get more oil. bowl in a warm, draft-free spot for about 3. Cover the bowl and let stand at room Today, Jews commemorate the miracle 1¼ hours. temperature until the dough has doubled in of the oil during Hanukkah, an eight-day 4. If the dough is coming out of the volume, about 20 to 40 minutes. festival that begins on the 25th day of the fridge, let the bowl sit at room temperature 4. Line two baking trays with parchment Hebrew month of Kislev, usually falling in for about 30 minutes before making the paper. Divide the dough into 16 pieces. December. sufganiyot. Turn the dough onto a lightly To shape: roll a piece to a 30 cm (12-inch) For each of eight nights, the hanukkiah floured surface and gently roll out to 6 length, and curl both ends so the pastry is (a nine-branched menorah) is lit — the mm (¼-inch) thickness. Cut with a 5 cm shaped like an S. Place on prepared baking ninth branch holds “the helper” candle, (two-inch) round pastry cutter. Gather tray, leaving about 5 cm (2 inches) between which is used to light the others. After and re-roll scraps and cut remaining discs. buns. Poke a raisin in the centre of each sundown, another candle is added and lit Let rise until doubled in size, about 30 coil. Let the buns double in size, about 20 as two blessings are recited or chanted: minutes. minutes one is a blessing over the candles, and the 5. Line one tray with a double layer of 5. Preheat the oven to 400 F (205°C) and other gives thanks for the deliverance. A paper towels and place a wire rack on make the egg wash by mixing the egg with third blessing, usually said during joyous top. Heat 5 cm (2 inches) of oil in a heavy the milk. occasions, is recited on the first night. bottomed pot to 195 C (385 F). 6. Poke the raisins back into the coils, in To remind others of the miracle, many 6. Carefully lower the discs into the oil, case they popped out during the rise. Brush display the menorah in their window. After being careful to not overcrowd the pot — with egg wash and sprinkle with pearl sugar the candle-lighting ceremony, families teach there should be at least 2 to 3 cm (about (if using). Bake for 18 to 20 minutes, until children about the celebration, play games, one inch) between the doughnuts. The golden. sing songs and give gifts. Observances discs will sink and then rise. After they rise, 7. To add shine, heat the glaze ingredients usually take place at home, but some com- carefully flip them onto the second side. together and brush on the buns as soon as munities hold public lighting ceremonies. 7. Turn them every 10 to 15 seconds until SUFGANIYOT they’ve come out of the oven. Cool on a Eating fried food on Hanukkah is an evolved into pastries such as berliners yeast or pizza yeast) (1 sachet) both sides are golden brown; each batch wire rack. ancient tradition that refers to the miracle and p¸aczki. In Poland, ponchiks were (Makes 36) 125 ml (½ cup) sugar will take two minutes (or less) to cook. Prep time: 1¼ hours of the oil. While Ashkenazi Jews in Eastern Hanukkah treats. They were taken to Israel, Sufganiyot are round jam-filled doughnuts 38 ml (2½ tablespoons) soft butter Remove and cool on the wire rack. Return Cook time: 20 minutes Europe often serve latkes (potato fritters), and later renamed “sufganiyot” (“suf- fried in oil. A red jam, such as strawberry, 2.5 ml (½ teaspoon) salt the oil to temperature between batches. the Mediterranean region’s Sephardic Jews ganiyah” is the singular), referring to the is often used, but feel free to use your 2 egg yolks 8. When cool enough to handle, bore Where to find ingredients locally have sufganiyot (stuffed or filled deep-fried “spongy dough” referred to in the Talmud. favourite. If the doughnut won’t flip over 5 ml (1 teaspoon) vanilla a small hole into each sufganiyah with • Ayres Bulk Food, Waterloo: cardamom, yeasted dough fritters, recipe follows).