©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 743 African National Congress (ANC) ATMs 703 491-5 Augrabies Falls NP (SA) 487-8 African wild dogs 686 Aus (N) 299-300 (language) 724-5 Agate Bay (N) 300-1 Agulhas NP (SA) 359 B B&Bs 696 Ai-Ais Hot Springs (N) 304 baboons 656, 657 AIDS 645, 670-1, 720 Baines’ Baobabs (B) 54 Christian fight against 671-2 Bainskloof Pass (SA) 355 in 77 ballooning 296 in 107 Banda, Hastings Kamuzu 156 in Malawi 155, 157 Banda, Joyce 154-5, 157, 645 in 306-7, 310 ABBR EVIATIONS Banda, Lucius 679 in 490 B Botswana Bangweulu Wetlands (Zam) 579-80 women travellers 707 FR Forest Reserve Bantu people 648-51, 669, 677-8 GP Game Park air travel 708-10, 713, see also scenic flights baobabs 54 GR Game Reserve Alto Molócuè (Moz) 206-7 Barberton (SA) 466-7 L Lesotho Amanzimtoti (SA) 408-9 Barra (Moz) 189-90 Mal Malawi Amathole (SA) 385-8 Basotho people 107, 651 Moz Amathole Trail (SA) 388 Basotholand Congress Party (BCP) N Namibia 106 amoebic dysentery 722 NP National Park bat-eared foxes 662, amusement parks 397, 479 662 NR National Reserve/Nature bathrooms 706 Anglo-Boer Wars 429, 453, 491 Reserve Batonga people 677 S Swaziland animals 653-68, 686-8, see also wildlife, individual entries Batswana people 79 SA South Africa Ann van Dyk Cheetah Centre (SA) 458 Battle of Blood River (SA) 426, WA Wilderness Area 428, 490 apartheid 492, 493 WR Wildlife Reserve Battle of Waterberg 307 Apartheid Museum (SA) 442, 9 WS Wildlife Sanctuary Battlefields (SA) 426-9 aquariums 284, 329, 379, 397 Zam Bazaruto Archipelago (Moz) 194-5 archaeological sites Zim beaches 16 Khami Ruins (Zim) 625 Buffalo Bay (SA) 367 Ondini (SA) 411 Cabaceira Pequena (Moz) 213-14 NUMB ERS & SYMBOLS Matopo National Park (Zim) 628 Cape Town (SA) 329, 332 4WD travel, see four-wheel drive Wildebeest Kuil Rock Art Centre travel (SA) 484 Chidenguele (Moz) 185-6 /Ae//Gams Festival (N) 251 World’s View (Zim) 619 Chikale Beach (Mal) 129 /Ai/Ais-Richtersveld Transfrontier architecture 673-4 Coastal Forest (SA) 415 Park (N) 304 art galleries, see also museums Coffee Bay (SA) 393 /Ai/Ais-Richtersveld Transfrontier Durban Art Gallery (SA) 397 Durban (SA) 397 Park (SA) 489 Hester Rupert Art Museum (SA) 389 Macaneta Beach (Moz) 181 !Khwa ttu (SA) 373 Art Gallery (SA) 438 Makuti Beach (Moz) 196 !Kung San (language) 726-7 National Art Gallery (N) 250-1 Morrungulo Beach (Moz) 191 National Art Gallery (Zim) 625 Muizenberg Beach (SA) 333 A National Art Museum (Moz) 170 Murrébuè (Moz) 219 abseiling 103, 333, 366, 368, 535 National Gallery of Zimbabwe Plettenberg Bay (SA) 370 accommodation 696-7, see also (Zim) 604 Ponta d’Ouro (Moz) 181 individual locations National Museum & Art Gallery Ponta Malongane (Moz) 181 national parks 690 (B) 41 Port Alfred (SA) 384 activities 20, 697-9, see also Nelson Mandela Metropolitan Art (SA) 379 adventure activities, individual Museum (SA) 379 Swakopmund (N) 284 activities Oliewenhuis Art Museum (SA) 429 Wilderness (SA) 366 Addo Elephant NP (SA) 382-3 Sasol Art Museum (SA) 349 Wimbi Beach (Moz) 219 adventure activities 16 Tatham Art Gallery (SA) 424 Xai-Xai Beach (Moz) 185 aerial sightseeing, see scenic flights William Humphreys Art Gallery bearded vultures 664, 665 (SA) 483 beer 676 arts 672-4, see also arts under indi- Beira (Moz) 196-9, 197 Map pages vidual countries, individual arts 000 Bela-Bela (Warmbaths) (SA) 472-3 000 Photo pages festivals 19-21, 41, 100, 258, 339, 383, 604 Bergville (SA) 419 744 Berlin Conference 650 Bokong NR (L) 102 in Zambia 587 bicycle travel, see cycling Bontebok NP (SA) 360 in Zimbabwe 632-3 Big Hole Complex (SA) 483 books 644, 673, 699-700 Broken Hill Man 646 Biko, Steve 493 art 674 budget 14 Bilene (Moz) 183-4 birdwatching 688, 699 Buffalo Bay (SA) 367 bilharzia 721 environment 699 buffalo fence 83 Bird Island (N) 289 food 676 buffaloes 658, 658 birds 687-8, see also birdwatching health 719 Bulawayo (Zim) 625-8, 626 IN birdwatching history 649, 650, 652, 700 Bulembu (S) 523 DE books 688, 699 music 684 Bulungula (SA) 394 X X Bvumba Mountains (Zim) 618 plants 689, 699 bungee jumping 377, 452, 535, 697 B-C Giant’s Castle (SA) 422 politics 700 Burnt Mountain (N) 276 Liuwa Plain NP (Zam) 576 safaris 685 bus travel 714, 716-17 Malolotja NR (S) 524 San people 674 Busanga Plains (Zam) 572 Mamili NP (N) 273 wildlife 685, 699 bushbabies 656, 657 Special Reserve (Moz) 183 border crossings 711, see also Bushman’s Nek (SA) 424 Mozambique 233 individual countries Bushveld (SA) 471-3 Nata Bird Sanctuary (B) 51 Boskop people 647 bushwalking, see hiking Nyika NP (Mal) 126 Botha, PW 492, 493 business hours 700, see also Nylsvley NR (SA) 475 Botswana 35, 40-93, 42-3, 48-9 individual countries South Africa 497 accommodation 83-5 Bvumba Mountains (Zim) 618-19 St Lucia (SA) 414 activities 85 Bwabwata NP (N) 270-1, 270 Victoria Falls 535 arts 80 Walvis Bay (N) 290 border crossings 89-91 C Xakanaxa Lediba (B) 70 business hours 85 Cabaceira Grande (Moz) 213-14 black market 703 children, travel with 85 Cabaceira Pequena (Moz) 213-14 black rhinoceros 686 climate 40 Cahora Bassa Dam (Moz) 203-4 Black Rock (SA) 415 customs regulations 85 Caia (Moz) 204 black-footed cats 654 embassies 85-6 Camdeboo NP (SA) 390-1 environment 80-3 Blantyre (Mal) 144-51, 146, 148 camping 32-3, 696 food 86 Bloemfontein (SA) 429-34, 432-3 Cango (SA) 362 highlights 42-3 Blood River Monument (SA) 428 canoeing & kayaking 697-8 history 77-9 Blyde River Canyon (SA) 467-8 Botswana 68 holidays 87 Blyde River Canyon NR (SA) 467 Malawi 129, 137, 159 itineraries 22, 27 boat travel 163, 164, 241, 642, 712, Namibia 290, 306 714, see also boat trips, canoeing language 79, 726-7, 730-1 South Africa 335, 366, 368, 384, & kayaking, houseboating maps 86 414, 501 boat trips, see also houseboating money 86-7 Victoria Falls 535 Botswana 56, 61, 70-1 national parks 81-2 Zambia 568, 569, 593 Malawi 137-8, 141 postal services 87 Zimbabwe 615, 616 Mozambique 181-2, 192-3, 195, 219 safety considerations 87-8 canyoning 333, 502 Namibia 290 telephone services 88 Cape Agulhas (SA) 359 South Africa 337, 339, 363, 370, tourist information 88 Cape Argus Pick ‘n’ Pay Cycle Tour 401, 414 travel seasons 40 (SA) 339 Victoria Falls 536 travel to/from 88-91 Cape Cross Seal Reserve (N) 280 Zambia 569 travel within 91-3 cape fur seals 662, 662 Bocarro, Gaspar 649 visas 88 cape gannets 666, 666 Boers, the 650, 652 Botswana Democratic Party (BDP) 79 Cape Maclear (Mal) 136-9, in Botswana 77-8 137 Boulders (SA) 333 Cape of Good Hope (SA) 333 in Lesotho 105 Bourke’s Luck Potholes (SA) 467 Cape Point (SA) 333 in South Africa 397, 426, 437, 453, bows 680 490-1 Cape Town (SA) 323-49, 326-7, Brandberg (N) 275-6 in Swaziland 522, 525-6 330-1, 334-5, 336, 338 break-bone fever 720 Bogenfels (N) 304 accommodation 339-42 British, the activities 333-7 in Botswana 77-8 attractions 323-33 in Lesotho 105-6 drinking 344-5 Map pages 000 in South Africa 323, 491 emergency services 346 000 Photo pages in Swaziland 525-6 entertainment 345-6 745 festivals 339 Chiluba, Frederick 588, 589 courses 315, 504 food 342-4 Chimanimani (Zim) 620-1, 621 (SA) 452 history 323 Chimanimani Mountains (Moz) 202 Craveirinha, José 230 internet access 346 Chimanimani NP (Zim) 621-2, 621 credit cards 703 medical services 346-7 Chimanimani NR (Moz) 202 cricket 496, 608, 635 money 347 Chimanimani Transfrontier crocodiles 258 postal services 347 Conservation Area (Moz) 202 cruises, see boat trips safety considerations 347 Chimfunshi Wildlife Orphanage (Zam) Cuamba (Moz) 214-15 shopping 346 585-6 culture 16, 669-76, see also individual IN tourist information 347 Chimoio (Moz) 200-1 countries DE tours 337-9 Chimpanzee Eden (SA) 464 currency 14, 703-4, see also money X travel to/from 347-8 chimpanzees 585 customs regulations, see individual C-D travel within 348-9 chimurenga 679, 682 countries Cape Town Minstrel Carnival (SA) 339 Chingola (Zam) 585 cycling 699, 710-11, 713-14 Cape Vidal (SA) 414 Chintsa (SA) 391-3 Cape Town (SA) 333-4, 337, 339 Capricorn (SA) 470-1 Chipata (Zam) 561 Franschhoek (SA) 354 car travel 15, 711, 714-16 Chirundu (Zam) 566-7 Knysna (SA) 369 bush driving 15, 32-3 Chizumulu Island (Mal) 132 Likoma Island (Mal) 131 hazards 716 Chobe NP (B) 9, 54-61, 55, 9 Namibia 319 hire 714-15 Chobe Riverfront (B) 58-9 Parys (SA) 434 insurance 711, 715 Chocas (Moz) 213-14 South Africa 507, 510 purchase 715-16 cholera 719-20 (SA) 452 road conditions 716 Choma (Zam) 571 Viphya Plateau (Mal) 132-3 rules 716 Christianity 671-2 to/from Southern Africa 711-12 churches & cathedrals D within Southern Africa 714-16 Beira Cathedral (Moz) 196 da Gama, Vasco 648 caracals 654, 654 Cathedral of St Peter (Mal) 131 Damara (language) 726 cash 703 CCAP Church (Mal) 145 Damaraland (N) 275-82 Cathedral Peak NR (SA) 421 Chapel of Nossa Senhora de dance 674 Baluarte (Moz) 210-11 cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals dangers, see safety considerations Christuskirche (N) 245 caves David Livingstone Memorial (Zam) Church of St Francis of Assisi Bathplug (SA) 423 579 (Zim) 622 Battle Cave (SA) 422 De Hoop NR (SA) 358 Dutch Reformed Church (SA) 358 Cango Caves (SA) 362 Dead Vlei (N) 296 Felsenkirche (N) 300 Chimanimani NP (Zim) 622 deep vein thrombosis 719 Mission Church (Mal) 124 Echo Caves (SA) 467 dengue fever 720 Citrusdal (SA) 374 Gobholo Cave (S) 520 desert hiking 34, see also hiking Clanwilliam (SA) 374-5 Main Cave (SA) 422 dhow safaris 192-3, 219 Clarens (SA) 435-6 Makapan’s Caves (SA) 472 diamonds 77, 78, 303, 483 climate 14, 19-21, see also individual diarrhoea 722 Stadsaal Caves (SA) 374 countries Diaz Point (N) 301-2 Caves (SA) 452 climate change 709 difaqane 77, 651 Cederberg WA (SA) 373-4, 18 Coastal Forest (SA) 415 dinosaur fossils 104, 122 cell phones 15, 705 Cóbuè (Moz) 217-18 disabilities, travellers with 706 Central Berg (SA) 420-2 Coetzee, JM 497, 649 discount cards 707 Central Kalahari GR (B) 72-5 Coffee Bay (SA) 393-4 District Six Museum (SA) 323 Central (SA) 371-2 colonialism 649, 651-2 diving & snorkelling 698 Chachacha Rebellion 587 in Botswana 78 Aliwal Shoal (SA) 408 chacma baboons 656, 657 in Malawi 155 Bazaruto Archipelago (Moz) 195 Chapel of Nossa Senhora de Baluarte in Mozambique 229 Cape Maclear (Mal) 137 (Moz) 210-11 in Namibia 307-8 Cape Town (SA) 334 Charters Creek (SA) 414-15 in South Africa 490-2 Durban (SA) 400 cheetahs 47, 654, 655 in Zambia 587 Kosi Bay (SA) 415 Chewa (language) 725 in Zimbabwe 632-3 Likoma Island (Mal) 131 Chidenguele (Moz) 185-6 Constitution Hill (SA) 439 Mossel Bay (SA) 364 Chiefs Island (B) 70 consulates 702, see also individual children, travel with 700-1, see also countries Nkhata Bay (Mal) 129 individual countries Convention for a Democratic South Pemba (Moz) 219 Chilembwe, John 156 Africa (Codesa) 493 Ponta d’Ouro (Moz) 181 746 diving & snorkelling continued East London (SA) 385-7, 386-7 Cape Town Minstrel Carnival Port Alfred (SA) 384 Eastern Cape (SA) 375-95, 376 (SA) 339 Port Elizabeth (SA) 379 Eastern Karoo (SA) 388-91 Cherry Festival (SA) 436 Sodwana Bay (SA) 415 Eastern Lowveld (SA) 458-67, 468 cultural 251 South Coast (SA) 408 Eastern Shores (SA) 414 film 19, 20, 21 Tofo (Moz) 188 Echo Caves (SA) 467 food & drink 251, 367, 436 Vilankulo (Moz) 192 economy 644-5, 670 Fringe Festival (SA) 383 Dolphin Coast (SA) 409 Elandsberg Rooibos Estate (SA) Harare International Festival of Arts IN dolphins 181-2 374-5 (Zim) 604 DE Dombo Hippo Pool (B) 70 electricity 697, 702 Hermanus Whale Festival

X X (SA) 356 Dorob NP (N) 280, 291 Elephant Coast (SA) 412-16

D-F Kuomboka ceremony (Zam) Dow, Unity 80 elephants 660, 687, 12, 661 575, 576 Drakensberg (SA) 11, 416-24, Elim (SA) 476 Maitisong Festival (B) 41 418-19, 11 Elim Dune (N) 296 Morija Arts & Cultural Festival Drakensberg Escarpment (SA) Elizabeth Bay (N) 304 (L) 100 467-70, 468 Emakhosini Ophathe Heritage Park music 339, 679, 680, 682 drinks 674-6, see also beer, individual (SA) 412 National Arts Festival (SA) 383 countries, wineries embassies 702, see also individual Obs Arts Festival (SA) 339 driving, see car travel, four-wheel countries Oktoberfest (N) 251 drive travel endangered species 498, 686-7 Oyster Festival (SA) 367 drums 680 environment 685-94 Pink Loerie Festival (SA) 367 dunes books 699 Windhoek Karnival (N) 251 Dune 7 (N) 289 environmental issues Dune 45 (N) 296 Zimbabwe Fashion Week animal welfare 691 (Zim) 604 Elim Dune (N) 296 climate change 709 Ficksburg (SA) 436 Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park elephant culling 687 (B) 75 filariasis 720 endangered species 498, 686-7 Sossusvlei (N) 296 film 644, 680, 682, 684 hunting 691 Swakopmund (N) 284 festivals 19, 20, 21 internet resources 645, 686, 690 fish eagles 664, 664 Durban (SA) 395-408, 398-9, 402-3 introduced species 689 Fish River Canyon (N) 8, 304-5, 8 accommodation 401-5 ivory trade 687 fishing 698 activities 400-1 overfishing 645 Lesotho 108 attractions 397-400 poaching 686-7, 691 Malawi 159 drinking 406 responsible travel 700-1 Mozambique 184, 204 emergency services 406 Epupa (N) 278-9 South Africa 395, 400, 434 entertainment 406 Epworth Balancing Rocks (Zim) 612 Victoria Falls 535-6 food 405-6 Erongo Mountains (Erongoberg) Zambia 568, 593 history 397 (N) 257-8 Zimbabwe 614, 615, 619 internet access 406 Eshowe (SA) 410-11 flamingos 290, 666 medical services 407 ethnicity 669 flightseeing, see scenic flights money 407 Etosha NP (N) 6, 263-6, 264, 7 floods 670 postal services 407 Etosha Pan (N) 263 food 674-6, 702, see also individual safety considerations 407 European settlement, see colonialism countries tourist information 407 events, see festivals books 676 travel to/from 407-8 Ezulwini Valley (S) 518-21, 519 etiquette 675 travel within 408 festivals 367, 436 Dutch, the shortages 670 in South Africa 323, 724 F famine 107 football 157, 329, 496 Duwisib Castle (N) 299 Fani’s Island (SA) 414-15 Fouriesburg (SA) 436 Dwarsrivier Farm (SA) 374 Fernkloof NR (SA) 357 four-wheel drive travel 18, 32-3, festivals 19-21, see also individual 34, 90 E countries Francistown (B) 47-9, 50 eagles 664, 664 /Ae//Gams Festival (N) 251 Franklin GR (SA) 429 East Caprivi Strip (N) 270 Artist’s Trail (N) 258 Franschhoek (SA) 353-5 arts 41, 100, 258, 339, 383, 604 Free State (SA) 428-36, 430-1 Cape Argus Pick ‘n’ Pay Cycle Tour Freedom Park (SA) 453 000 Map pages (SA) 339 Frelimo 229-30 000 Photo pages Cape Town International Jazz fynbos zone 688 Festival (SA) 339 747 G Gokomere people 648, 649 (SA) 465-6 Gaborone (B) 41-6, 44, 46 Golden Gate Highlands NP (SA) 435 Head, Bessie 80 accommodation 41 golf 477, 618-19 health 718-23 attractions 41 Gonarezhou NP (Zim) 624-5 books 719 emergency services 45 Gondwana Cañon Park (N) 305-6 environmental hazards 722-3 festivals 41 Gordimer, Nadine 496, 673 infectious diseases 719-22 food 41-5 Gore-Brown, Stewart 581, 582 insurance 718 internet access 45 Gorongosa NP (Moz) 199-200 internet resources 719 IN medical services 45 goshawks 664, 665 services 719 DE shopping 45 gospel music 682 travellers’ diarrhoea 722 X X tourist information 45 Goukamma NR (SA) 367 vaccinations 718 G-H tours 41 Graaff-Reinet (SA) 388-90, 389 heat exhaustion 722 travel to/from 45-6 Grahamstown (SA) 383-4 heatstroke 722 travel within 46 Graskop (SA) 468-9 hepatitis 720 Galeshewe township (SA) 484 Great East Rd (Zam) 561 Herero (language) 726 galleries, see art galleries Great Fish Point Lighthouse (SA) 384 Herero people 651 Game Breeding Centre (SA) 471-2 Great Transfrontier Park Hermanus (SA) 356-8 game parks, see wildlife reserves & (Moz) 184 Hertzog, General Barry 491-2 sanctuaries Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park Hidden Vlei (N) 296 Game Pass Shelter (SA) 423 (Zim) 624-5 Highmoor NR (SA) 422 Gamkaskloof NR (SA) 372 Great Rift Valley 685 hiking 17, 698-9, 700-1 gannets 666, 666 Great Trek, the 490, 650, 652 /Ai/Ais-Richtersveld Transfrontier Gansbaai (SA) 358 Great Zimbabwe (Zim) 13, 622-4, Park (SA) 489 632, 648, 650, 623, 13, 648 Garden Route (SA) 363-71, 364-5 Amathole Trail (SA) 388 greater galagos 656, Garden Route NP (SA) 375-7 657 Augrabies Falls NP (SA) 488 Grootfontein (N) 260-1 Garden Route NP (Wilderness Blyde River Canyon (SA) 467 Section) (SA) 367 Grosse Bucht (N) 302 Cape Maclear (Mal) 138 gardens & parks Guebuza, Armando 228 Cape Town (SA) 334-5 Company’s Gardens (SA) 323 guesthouses 696 Cederberg WA (SA) 373-4, 18 Durban Botanic Gardens (SA) 400 Gurúè (Moz) 206 Chimanimani Mountains (Moz) 202 Freedom Park (SA) 453 Gweta (B) 53 Chimanimani NP (Zim) 621-2 Harare Gardens (Zim) 604 Gwisho Hot Springs (Zam) 571 De Hoop NR (SA) 358 Kings Walden (SA) 477 desert 34 Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens H Drakensberg (SA) 417 (SA) 332 Ha Kome cave houses (L) 95 Epupa (N) 278-9 Lowveld National Botanical Garden (SA) 476 Fish River Canyon (N) 304-5 (SA) 464 Halifax Island (N) 302 Garden Route NP (SA) 375 Lusaka Botanical Gardens (Zam) handicrafts, see arts Giant’s Cup Trail (SA) 423 552 hang gliding 501 Golden Gate Highlands NP (SA) National Botanical Garden (SA) 435 458 hamerkops 666, 667 Gurúè (Moz) 206 Naval Hill (SA) 429 Hamilton Hills (N) 292 Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park (SA) 412 Zoo Park (N) 245 Harare (Zim) 604-12, 606-7, 610-11 Kruger NP (SA) 459 accommodation 604-5 (SA) 436-58, 438-9 Letaba Valley (SA) 476 attractions 604 Gautrain (SA) 450 Malealea (L) 103 drinking 607 gay travellers 671, 702 Malolotja NR (S) 524 emergency services 609 geography 17, 685 Marloth NR (SA) 358-9 entertainment 607-8 geology 17, 685 Montagu (SA) 361 festivals 604 George (SA) 365-6 Mossel Bay (SA) 364 food 605-7 Germans, the Mt Gorongosa (Moz) 200 internet access 609 in Namibia 245, 260-1, 307-8 Mt Mulanje (Mal) 151 medical services 609 Giant’s Castle (SA) 421-2 Naukluft Mountains (N) 294 postal services 609 Giant’s Cup Trail (SA) 423 Nyika NP (Mal) 126 safety considerations 609 giardiasis 722 Royal Natal NP (SA) 419-20 shopping 608-9 giraffes 660, 660 safaris 34 tourist information 609-11 Goa Island (Moz) 211 Sani Top (L) 101 travel to/from 611 Goanikontes (N) 287 Sehlabathebe NP (L) 102-3 travel within 612 Gobabis Hill (B) 59 Sentinel Hiking Trail (SA) 435 Goegap NR (SA) 488 Hartmann’s Valley (N) 279 748 hiking continued I entertainment 448 Shipwreck Coast (SA) 385 Ibo Island (Moz) 224-6 food 446-7 Skeleton Coast Park (N) 280 immigration 708 history 437 Soutpansberg Mountains (SA) 474 impalas 658 internet access 449 Strandloper Trail (SA) 387 Incwala 522 medical services 449 Swartberg NR (SA) 372 independence money 449 Swellendam (SA) 359 Botswana 78-9 postal services 449 Table Mountain NP (SA) 340 Lesotho 106 safety considerations 449 IN Ts’ehlanyane NP (L) 102 Malawi 156 tourist information 449 DE Tsitsikamma (SA) 375 Mozambique 229 tours 442-3 X X Zomba Plateau (Mal) 145 Namibia 309-10 travel to/from 449-50 H-K Himba (language) 726 Swaziland 526 travel within 450-1 Himba people 277-8, 3 Zambia 587-8 Jonathan, Leabua 106 Himeville (SA) 423 Zimbabwe 633-4 Judaism 672 Hinduism 672 infectious diseases 719-22 Juma Mosque (SA) 399-400 hip-hop 684 Inhaca Island (Moz) 180-1 hippopotamuses 70, 660, 668 Inhambane (Moz) 186-8, 187 K history 646-52, see also individual Inhassoro (Moz) 195-6 Kafue Flats (Zam) 571 countries Injisuthi (SA) 422 Kafue NP (Zam) 572-5, 573 books 649, 650, 652, 700 Inkwenkwezi GR (SA) 391 Kakamas (SA) 487 internet resources 647 Inner Delta (B) 68-70 Kalahari Gemsbok NP (B) 75 music 677-9 insect bites 722-3 Kalahari, the (B) 72-6, 80-1, 73 hitching 716 insurance 702-3 Kalambo Falls (Zam) 583 HIV, see AIDS car 711, 715 kalindula 682-3 Hlane Royal NP (S) 524 health 718 Kamberg NR (SA) 423 Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park (SA) 412-13 internet access 703 Kamkwamba, William 160 Hoba Meteorite (N) 261 internet resources 15 Kaokoveld (N) 277-80 Hodgson’s Peaks (L) 101 air tickets 709 Kapiri Mposhi (Zam) 584 Hogsback (SA) 387-8 environmental issues 645, 686, Kariba Town (Zim) 613-14 holidays, see individual countries 690 Karonga (Mal) 122 hoodia 675 health 719 Karoo NP (SA) 372, 689 horse riding 699 history 647 Kasama (Zam) 581-2 Lesotho 102-3 music 677, 678, 679, 682, 683 Kasane (B) 54-8, 56-7 Malawi 143 transfrontier parks 692 Kasanka NP (Zam) 578-9 Namibia 284-5 wildlife 686 Katete (Zam) 561 South Africa 354, 359, 382, 384, Isandlwana (SA) 427-8 Katima Mulilo (N) 271-2 393, 420, 421, 475 isicathimiya 678 Katutura (N) 249, 680 Victoria Falls 536 iSimangaliso Wetland Park (SA) Kaunda, Kenneth 587-8 hostels 696-7 413-16 Kawaza Village (Zam) 565 hot springs Islam 672 kayaking, see canoeing & kayaking Ai-Ais Hot Springs (N) 304 Ithala GR (SA) 412 Keetmanshoop (N) 299 Bela-Bela (Warmbaths) itineraries 22-7 Kei Mouth (SA) 394 (SA) 472-3 ivory trade 687 Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park (B) Gwisho Hot Springs (Zam) 571 Iziko Slave Lodge (SA) 328 Kapishya Hot Springs (Zam) 581 11, 75-6 Montagu (SA) 360 Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park (SA) 11, 486-7, , hot-air ballooning 296 J 486 11 jackass penguins 666, Khama Rhino Sanctuary (B) 47 hotels 697 666 jazz 339, 439, 679, 681, 682 Khama, Seretse 78-9 Hottentots, see Khoikhoi people Jazz on the Lake (SA) 682 Khami Ruins (Zim) 625 houseboating 373, 613-14 Jeffrey’s Bay (SA) 377-8 Khaudum NP (N) 269 hunting 691 jet lag 719 Khoikhoi people 647 hunting dogs 662 Johannesburg (SA) 437-51, 440-1, Khoisan people 323, 647 Hwange NP (Zim) 537, 629-31, 630 444-5 Khutse GR (B) 75 hyenas 662, 663 accommodation 443-6 Kimberley (SA) 483-5 activities 437-42 kite surfing 193, 223, 233, 401, 697 attractions 437-42 Kitwe (Zam) 585 Map pages 000 drinking 447-8 Klein Bogenfels (N) 302 000 Photo pages emergency services 449 klipspringers 658, 659 749 kloofing 333, 502 Lealui (Zam) 575, 576 Lilongwe Wildlife Centre (Mal) 115 Knysna (SA) 367-70, 368 Leopard Rock (B) 59 Limbe (Mal) 144-51, 146 Kolmanskop Ghost Town (N) 303 leopards 654, 655 Limpopo (SA) 470-8, 472-3 Kosi Bay (SA) 415-16 lesbian travellers 671, 702 Limpopo NP (Moz) 184-5 Kruger NP (SA) 458-63, 462 Lesotho 35, 94-111, 96-7 Limulunga (Zam) 575, 576 Kruger, Paul 454 accommodation 94, 108 Linyanti Marshes (B) 60-1 Kubu Island (B) 51 activities 94, 108-9 lions 654, 11, 654 Kuiseb Canyon (N) 292 arts 107-8 literature 673, see also books IN Kuomboka ceremony 575, 576 border crossings 110 Botswanan 80 DE kwaito 679, 683 business hours 109 Mozambican 230 X X kwasa kwasa 684 climate 94 South African 496-7 K-L KwaZulu-Natal (SA) 395-428, 396 culture 107 Zimbabwean 636 kwela 679 customs regulations 109 Liuwa Plain NP (Zam) 576 electricity 110 Living Hunter’s Museum of the embassies 109 Ju/Hoansi (N) 274 L environment 108 Living Museum (N) 258 Ladysmith (SA) 426-7 festivals 109 Livingstone (Zam) 538-48, Ladysmith Black Mambazo 678 540 food 109 accommodation 538-42 L’Agulhas (SA) 359 highlights 96-7 eating & drinking 542 Lake Fundudzi (SA) 476 history 105-7 shopping 542 Lake Itezhi-Tezhi (Zam) 572 holidays 109 sights & activities 538-9 Lake Kariba (Zam) 569, 570 language 109, 730 travel to/from 543 Lake Kariba (Zim) 613 money 109 Livingstone, David 539, 579, 587, 671 Lake Malawi (Mal) 13, 136, 685, 13 national parks 108 Livingstone Island (Zam) 538-9 Lake Malawi NP (Mal) 136-9 safety considerations 110 Livingstone Museum (Zam) 539 Lake Niassa (Lake Malawi) (Moz) 216-18 telephone services 110 Livingstonia (Mal) 122-5 Lake of Stars Malawi Music Festival tourist information 110 Liwonde (Mal) 139-41 679 travel seasons 94 Liwonde NP (Mal) 141-2 Lake Oponono (N) 266 travel to/from 110-11 Liwonde Rhino Sanctuary (Mal) 141 Lake Sibaya (SA) 415 travel within 111 Lizard Island (Mal) 135 Lake St Lucia (SA) 413 visas 110 lizards 688 Lake Waka-Waka (Zam) 579 Lesotho Congress for Democracy Lizauli Traditional Village (N) 273 Lala Nek (SA) 415 (LCD) 106-7 Lobamba (S) 521 Langebaan Lagoon (SA) 373 Letaba Valley (SA) 476-7 Lochinvar NP (Zam) 571-2 languages 14, 724-35 lichen fields (N) 287 (Makhado) (SA) 473-4 !Kung San 726-7 Lichinga (Moz) 215-16 Lower Shire (Mal) 153-4 Afrikaans 724-5 Likoma Island (Mal) 131-2 Lower Zambezi NP (Zam) 567-9, 567 Chewa 725 lilac-breasted rollers 666 Lower Zambezi Valley (Zam) 567-9, clicking 726 Liliesleaf Farm (SA) 437 567 courses 315, 504 Lilongwe (Mal) 114-22, 114-15, 118 Lozi (language) 727 Damara 726 accommodation 115-17 Lozi people 575, 576, 587, 589 Herero 726 activities 115 Luangwa Bridge (Zam) 561 Himba 726 attractions 115 Luangwa River (Zam) 562 Lozi 727 drinking 119 Lüderitz (N) 300-3, 301 Nama 726 emergency services 120 Lüderitz, Adolf 307 Ndebele 727 entertainment 119 Lusaka (Zam) 552-60, 554-5 Northern Sotho (Sepedi) 727 food 118-19 accommodation 552-7 Owambo 728 internet access 120 attractions 552 Portuguese 728-9 itineraries 117 drinking 557-8 Shona 729 medical services 120 emergency services 558 Southern Sotho (Sesotho) 730 money 120 entertainment 557-8 Swati 730 postal services 120 food 557 Tsonga 730 safety considerations 120-1 internet access 558 Tswana 730-1 shopping 119-20 medical services 558 Venda 731 tourist information 121 money 558 Xhosa 731 travel to/from 121-2 safety considerations 558 Zulu 731 travel within 122 shopping 558 lappet-faced vultures 664 Lilongwe Nature Sanctuary (Mal) 115 telephone services 558-9 750 Lusaka (Zam) continued Malawisaurus 122 Massinga (Moz) 191 tourist information 559 Malealea (L) 12, 103, 12 Masvingo (Zim) 622 travel to/from 559-60 Malindidzimu Hill (Zim) 628 Matabele people 651 travel within 560 Malkerns Valley (S) 521-3 Matemo Island (Moz) 224-5 Malolotja NR (S) 523-4 Mathambo, Spoek 684 M Mamili NP (N) 273 Matlapaneng (B) 61-8, 67 Mabuasehube (B) 75 Mana Pools Game Count (Zim) Matobo NP (Matopos) (Zim) 628-9 615-16 Matusadona NP (Zim) 614-15

IN Macaloé Island (Moz) 224 Mana Pools NP (Zim) 615-16 Maun (B) 61-8, 64, 67

DE Macaneta Beach (Moz) 181 Mandela House Museum (SA) 451 Machel, Samora 229, 230 Mavuradonha Wilderness (Zim) 617 X X Mandela, Nelson 451, 492, 493, 494 Maxixe (Moz) 190

L-M Madiba, see Mandela, Nelson Mandimba (Moz) 215 Madikwe GR (SA) 481 Mbabane (S) 517-18, 517 Mangaung township (SA) 429 Mafeteng (L) 103-4 Mbala (Zam) 582 Manica (Moz) 201-2 Mafikeng (SA) 481 Mbeki, Thabo 494-5 Mantenga NR (S) 521 magazines 697 mbiras 680 Manyeleti WR (SA) 463 Magoebaskloof Pass (SA) 476 Mboma Island (B) 70 Manzini (S) 522-3 Mahango GR (N) 270 measures 697 Mapfumo, Thomas 679, 682 Majete WR (Mal) 12, 153-4, 12 medical services 719 mapiko 226 Majongwe, Raymond 682 Medjumbe Island (Moz) 224-5 maps 703 Makapan’s Caves (SA) 472 meerkats 662, 653 Mapungubwe NP (SA) 475 Makgadikgadi Pans NP (B) 53-4, 52 Meiringspoort Pass (SA) 362, 372 Maputo (Moz) 170-80, 172-3 Makololo people 651 Metangula (Moz) 216-17 accommodation 171-6 Makonde people 225 Mfuwe (Zam) 562 activities 171 Malangatana 231 Midlands (SA) 424-6 attractions 170-1 malaria 720-1 Milange (Moz) 206 children, travel with 171 Malawi 36, 112-66, 113, 123, 140 Mission Rocks (SA) 414 drinking 177 accommodation 112, 158-9 missionaries 137 emergency services 178 activities 159 Mkhaya GR (S) 13, 524-5, 13 entertainment 177 border crossings 131, 163-4 Mlawula NR (S) 524 festivals & events 171 business hours 160 Mlilwane WS (S) 518-19 food 176-7 children, travel with 160 mobile phones 15, 705 internet access 178 climate 112 Moçimboa da Praia (Moz) 226-7 medical services 178 culture 157 Mocuba (Moz) 205-6 money 178 customs regulations 160 Modjadji NR (SA) 477 postal services 178 embassies 160 Mohale’s Hoek (L) 104 safety considerations 178-9 environment 158 Mokala NP (SA) 485 shopping 178 festivals 160 Mokhotlong (L) 101 tours 171 food & drink 112, 158, 160 Mokolodi NR (B) 46-7 travel to/from 179 highlights 113 Mokoomba 679, 683 travel within 179-80 history 155-7 (SA) 471-2 visas 179 holidays 160-1 mokoro trips 68 Maputo Special Reserve (Moz) 183 internet access 161 Mondesa township (N) 285 Marakele NP (SA) 475 language 725 Mondlane, Eduardo 229 Maravi people 650-1 money 161 money 14-15, 703-4, see also Margate (SA) 409 individual countries national parks 158 Marienflüss Valley (N) 279 Mongu (Zam) 575 postal services 161 marine parks & reserves Monkey Bay (Mal) 136 safety considerations 161-2 Inhaca Island (Moz) 180 telephone services 162 monkeys 656, 656 Quilaluia (Moz) 224 tourist information 162 Monk’s Cowl (SA) 421 Robberg Nature & Marine Reserve Montagu (SA) 360-3 tours 166 (SA) 371 Montepuez (Moz) 219 travel seasons 112 Tsitsikamma (SA) 375 Moon Landscape (N) 287 travel to/from 162-4 Marloth NR (SA) 358-9 Moremi GR (B) 70-2, 71 travel within 164-6 Maropeng (SA) 452 Morgan’s Bay (SA) 394 visas 162 marrabenta 19, 231, 684 Morija (L) 99-100 Marracuene (Moz) 181 Morija Arts & Cultural Festival (L) 100 Map pages Masekela, Hugh Ramopolo 681 000 Morrungulo Beach (Moz) 191 Maseru (L) 95-9, 000 Photo pages 98-9 Moshoeshoe the Great 105 751 Mosi-oa-Tunya GP (Zam) 537, 539 Murrébuè (Moz) 219, 223-4 Nakambale House (N) 266 Mosi-oa-Tunya NP (Zam) 538, 546-7 museums, see also art galleries National Archives of Zimbabwe mosques 399-400 Afrikaans Language Museum (Zim) 604 Mossel Bay (SA) 363-5 (SA) 355 National English Literacy Museum (SA) 383 Mossuril (Moz) 213-14 Albany History Museum (SA) 383 National Ethnography Museum motorcycle travel 711, 714-16 Amathole Museum (SA) 388 (Moz) 207 mountain biking, see cycling Anglo-Boer War Museum (SA) 429 National Money Museum (Moz) 170 Mozambique 36, 167-243, 168-9 Apartheid Museum (SA) 442, 9 National Museum (Mal) 145 IN accommodation 232-3 Bakone Malapa Open-Air Museum (SA) 471 National Museum (S) 521 DE activities 233 Basotho Cultural Village (SA) 435 National Museum (SA) 429 X arts 230-1 Bayworld (SA) 379 National Museum (Zam) 552 M border crossings 238-40 Big Hole Complex (SA) 483 National Museum & Art Gallery business hours 233 (B) 41 Blood River Museum (SA) 428 children, travel with 233-4 National Museum of Namibia (N) Bo-Kaap Museum (SA) 328 climate 167 248-9 Campbell Collections (SA) 400 customs regulations 234 Natural History Museum (Moz) 170 Castle of Good Hope (SA) 323 embassies 234 Natural History Museum (Zim) 625 Chamare Museum (Mal) 134 environment 232 Natural Science Museum (SA) 397 Choma Museum (Zam) 571 food & drink 231-2, 234 Nayuma Museum (Zam) 575 Copperbelt Museum (Zam) 584 highlights 168-9 Ncome Museum (SA) 428 CP Nel Museum (SA) 362 history 228-30 Nyanga Historical Exhibition Dias Museum Complex (SA) 364 holidays 236 (Zim) 619 District Six Museum (SA) 323 language 730 Observatory Museum (SA) 383 Drostdy Museum (SA) 358 legal matters 234-5 Old Courthouse Museum (SA) 398 East London Museum (SA) 385 maps 235 Owela Museum (N) 249 Fort Nongqayi Museum Village money 235-6 Owl House (SA) 391 (SA) 411 national parks 232 Paarl Museum (SA) 355 Geology Museum (Moz) 170 safety considerations 236-7 Palace & Chapel of São Paulo George Museum (SA) 365 telephone services 237 (Moz) 210 George Transport Museum (SA) Pilgrim’s Rest (SA) 470 tours 243 365 Pioneer Museum (SA) 456 travel seasons 167 German Fort & Museum (N) 260-1 travel to/from 237-41 Port Natal Maritime Museum Great Zimbabwe Museum (Zim) 622 (SA) 399 travel within 241-3 Hector Pieterson Museum (SA) 452 Reinet House (SA) 389 visas 237 Hugh Exton Photographic Museum Robben Island (SA) 329 Mozambique Island (Moz) 10, 210-13, (SA) 471 SAB World of Beer (SA) 439 211, 10 Huguenot Memorial Museum Smuts House Museum (SA) 458 Mpalila Island (N) 272 (SA) 353 South African Jewish Museum Mphaki (L) 104 Iziko Slave Lodge (SA) 328 (SA) 329 Mpulungu (Zam) 583 Kruger Museum (SA) 454 South African National Gallery (SA) 458-70, 460-1 KwaMuhle Museum (SA) 397 (SA) 328 Mswati III 525 KwaZulu Cultural-Historical South End Museum (SA) 379 Museum (SA) 411 Mt Binga (Moz) 202 Stone House Museum (Mal) 124 Lighthouse Museum (SA) 359 Mt Binga (Zim) 621 Swakopmund Museum (N) 283-4 Liliesleaf Farm (SA) 437 Mt Gorongosa (Moz) 200 Trans-Namib Transport Museum Mt Moorosi (L) 104 Living Hunter’s Museum of the (N) 249-50 Ju/Hoansi (N) 274 Mt Mulanje (Mal) 151-3, 152 Tsumeb Mining Museum (N) 262 Living Museum (N) 258 Mt Namúli (Moz) 206 Museum (SA) 477 Livingstone Museum (Zam) 539 Mtukudzi, Oliver 679 Village Museum (SA) 349 Lüderitz Museum (N) 300 Mua Mission (Mal) 134 Walvis Bay Museum (N) 289 Mafikeng Museum (SA) 481 Mudumu NP (N) 272-3 Winterton Museum (SA) 420 Mandela House Museum (SA) 451 Mueda (Moz) 226 music 677-84 Maropeng (SA) 452 Mueda massacre 226, 229 books 684 Montagu Museum (SA) 360 Mugabe, Robert 633-5 festivals 19-21, 339, 679, 680, 682 Morija Museum & Archives (L) Mukuvisi Woodlands Environmental films 680, 682, 684 99-100 Centre (Zim) 604 history 677-9 Moto Moto Museum (Zam) 582 Mulanje (Mal) 151 internet resources 677, 678, 679, Msunduzi Museum (SA) 424 Munda Wanga Environmental Park 682, 683 Museum Africa (SA) 439 (Zam) 552 politics 678-9 Mutare Museum (Zim) 617 752 musical instruments 679-80 Nata Bird Sanctuary (B) 51 Mamili NP (N) 273 Musina (Messina) (SA) 474-5 National Botanical Garden (SA) 458 Mana Pools NP (Zim) 615-16 Musina NR (SA) 474 National Heroes’ Acre (Zim) 604 Mantenga NR (S) 521 musiro 210 national parks & nature reserves Mapungubwe NP (SA) 475 Mutare (Zim) 617, 618 689-92, see also private wildlife Marakele NP (SA) 475 & conservation reserves, trans- Mutharika, Bingu wa 154, 157 Marloth NR (SA) 358-9 frontier parks, wildlife reserves & Mutinondo Wilderness (Zam) 580-1 sanctuaries Matobo NP (Matopos) (Zim) 628-9 mutu 672 Matusadona NP (Zim) 614-15

IN accommodation 690 Mzuzu (Mal) 127-9, 128 Mlawula NR (S) 524

DE Addo Elephant NP (SA) 382-3 Agulhas NP (SA) 359 Modjadji NR (SA) 477 X X Mokala NP (SA) 485

M-N Augrabies Falls NP (SA) 487-8 N Mokolodi NR (B) 46-7 Nacala (Moz) 214 Blyde River Canyon NR (SA) 467 Mosi-oa-Tunya NP (Zam) 538, Nama (language) 726 Bontebok NP (SA) 360 546-7 Nama people 651 Bwabwata NP (N) 270-1, 270 Mudumu NP (N) 272-3 Namaacha (Moz) 183 Camdeboo NP (SA) 390-1 Musina NR (SA) 474 Namakwa (SA) 488-9 Cathedral Peak NR (SA) 421 Namaqua NP (SA) 488 Namaqua NP (SA) 488 Cederberg WA (SA) 373-4, 18 Namib-Naukluft Park (N) 291-6, Namibia 36, 244-321, 246-7 Chimanimani NP (Zim) 621-2, 621 292-3 accommodation 313-14 Chimanimani NR (Moz) 202 Niassa Reserve (Moz) 218-19 activities 314 Chobe NP (B) 9, 54-61, 55, 9 North Luangwa NP (Zam) 566 arts 258, 311 De Hoop NR (SA) 358 Nsumbu (Sumbu) NP (Zam) 583-4 border crossings 269, 271, 272, Dlinza FR (SA) 411 Nxai Pan NP (B) 54, 52 317-18 Dorob NP (N) 280, 291 Nyanga NP (Zim) 619-20 business hours 314-15 Etosha NP (N) 6, 263-6, 264, 7 Nyika NP (Mal) 125-6, climate 244 125 Fernkloof NR (SA) 357 Nylsvley NR (SA) 475 courses 315 Gamkaskloof NR (SA) 372 Oribi Gorge NR (SA) 409 culture 310-11 Garden Route NP (SA) 375-7 Paarl Mountain NR (SA) 355 customs regulations 315 Garden Route NP (Wilderness Pilanesberg NP (SA) 480-1 embassies 315 Section) (SA) 367 Pomene Reserve (Moz) 191 environment 312-13 Goegap NR (SA) 488 Quirimbas NP (Moz) 224 festivals 315 Golden Gate Highlands NP (SA) Robberg Nature & Marine Reserve food & drink 311-12, 315 435 (SA) 371 highlights 246-7 Gonarezhou NP (Zim) 624-5 Royal Natal NP (SA) 419-20 history 307-10 Gondwana Cañon Park (N) 305-6 Sehlabathebe NP (L) 102-3 holidays 316 Gorongosa NP (Moz) 199-200 Silaka NR (SA) 394 internet access 315 Goukamma NR (SA) 367 Skeleton Coast Park (N) 280-1 language 726-7, 728 Highmoor NR (SA) 422 South Luangwa NP (Zam) 10, Hlane Royal NP (S) 524 maps 315-16 561-5, 562, 10 money 316 Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park (SA) 412-13 Sperrgebiet NP (N) 303-4 national parks 313 Hwange NP (Zim) 537, 629-31, 630 Spioenkop NR (SA) 427 postal services 316 iSimangaliso Wetland Park (SA) Swartberg NR (SA) 372 413-16 safety considerations 316 Table Mountain NP (SA) 328, telephone services 316-17 Kafue NP (Zam) 572-5, 573 333, 340 tourist information 317 Kalahari Gemsbok NP (B) 75 Ts’ehlanyane NP (L) 102 tours 320-1 Kamberg NR (SA) 423 uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Park travel seasons 244 Karoo NP (SA) 372, 689 (SA) 416-17 travel to/from 317-18 Kasanka NP (Zam) 578-9 Umhlanga Lagoon NR (SA) 410 travel within 318-21 Khaudum NP (N) 269 Victoria Falls NP (Zim) 545, 546-7 visas 317 Kruger NP (SA) 458-63, 462 Voortrekker NR (SA) 453 women travellers 317 Lake Malawi NP (Mal) 136-9 Waterberg Plateau Park (N) 259-60 Namib-Naukluft Park (N) 291-6, 292-3 Limpopo NP (Moz) 184-5 West Coast NP (SA) 373 NamibRand NR (N) 298 Liuwa Plain NP (Zam) 576 Zambezi NP (Zim) 545 Nampula (Moz) 207-10, 208 Liwonde NP (Mal) 141-2 National Women’s Monument (SA) Nata (B) 51-3 Lochinvar NP (Zam) 571-2 429 Lower Zambezi NP (Zam) 567-9, nature reserves, see national parks & 567 nature reserves 000 Map pages Makgadikgadi Pans NP (B) 53-4, 52 Nature’s Valley (SA) 375 Photo pages 000 Malolotja NR (S) 523-4 Naukluft Mountains (N) 294-6, 295 753 Ncome Monument (SA) 428 overland trucks 33-4, 712, 714 Portuguese, the 648 Ndebele (language) 727 Owambo (language) 728 in Mozambique 228-9 Ndola (Zam) 584-5 Oxbow (L) 101 prehistory 646-7 Ndumo GR (SA) 416 (SA) 452-8, 454 Nelson Mandela Bridge (SA) 439 P Pretoria Boeremark (SA) 456 Nelson Mandela Gateway (SA) 329 Paarl (SA) 355-6 Prince Albert (SA) 372-3 Nelspruit (SA) 464-5, 464 Paarl Mountain NR (SA) 355 private wildlife & conservation New Brighton township (SA) 379 reserves, see also national parks

pale chanting goshawks 664, 665 IN ngoma 680 & nature reserves, transfron- Palma (Moz) 227 tier parks, wildlife reserves & DE Ngoni people 651 Pan African Congress (PAC) 492 sanctuaries Ngonye Falls (Zam) 577 X

Paradise Pools (B) 70 Chimfunshi Wildlife Orphanage N-R 650 paragliding 501, 697 (Zam) 585-6 Ngwenya (S) 523 parks, see gardens & parks Inkwenkwezi GR (SA) 391 Niassa Reserve (Moz) 218-19 Parys (SA) 434 Manyeleti WR (SA) 463 Nieu Bethesda (SA) 391 passports 708 Mkhaya GR (S) 13, 524-5, 13 Nkhata Bay (Mal) 129-31, 130 Paton, Alan 496 Mlilwane WS (S) 518-19 Nkhotakota (Mal) 133-4 Pemba (Moz) 219-23, 220 Mutinondo Wilderness (Zam) 580-1 Nkhotakota WR (Mal) 134-5 penguins 666, 666 NamibRand NR (N) 298 Nkhunguni Peak (Mal) 138 Petrified Forest (N) 276-7 Namtib Biosphere Reserve (N) 300 Noordoewer (N) 306 (SA) 477-8 Sabi Sand WR (SA) 463-4 North Luangwa NP (Zam) 566 photography 704 Skeleton Coast Wilderness Area Northern Berg (SA) 417-20 (N) 281 Pietermaritzburg (SA) 424-6, 425 Northern Cape (SA) 481-9, Timbavati WR (SA) 463 482-3 Pilanesberg NP (SA) 480-1 Northern Sotho (language) 727 Victoria Falls Private GR (Zim) 537 Pilgrim’s Rest (SA) 470 North-West Province (SA) 478-81, public holidays, see individual Pinnacle (SA) 467 479 countries Plaatje, Solomon Tshekisho 496 Nsumbu (Sumbu) NP (Zam) 583-4 planning, see also itineraries Nujoma, Samuel 309, 310 basics 14-15 Q Nxai Pan NP (B) 54, 52 budgeting 14-15 Qacha’s Nek (L) 102 nyanga 679 calendar of events 19-21 Qiloane Hill (L) 100 Nyanga NP (Zim) 619-20 countries 35-7 quad biking 536, 697 Nyangani (Zim) 620 internet resources 15 Quelimane (Moz) 204-5, 205 nyele 679 itineraries 22-7 Quilaluia Island (Moz) 224 Nyika NP (Mal) 125-6, 125 safaris 28-34 Quirimba Island (Moz) 224-6 Nylsvley NR (SA) 475 travel seasons 14, 19-21 Quirimbas Archipelago (Moz) 10, plants 688-9, 699 224-6, 10 O Plettenberg Bay (SA) 370-1 Quirimbas NP (Moz) 224 Obs Arts Festival (SA) 339 poaching 686-7, 691 Quissico (Moz) 186 off-road driving, see four-wheel drive Pohamba, Hifikepunye 310 Quthing (L) 104 travel politics 644-5 Okavango Delta (B) 9, 61-72, 81, books 700 R , , 62-3 2 9 music 678-9 rabies 721 Omaruru (N) 258 Polokwane GR (SA) 470 rafting 434, 501, 520, 536, 697-8, see Ondangwa (N) 266-7 Polokwane (Pietersburg) (SA) 470-1 also canoeing & kayaking Ondini (SA) 411 Pomene (Moz) 191 Ramabanta (L) 12 Ongulumbashe (N) 267 Pomene Reserve (Moz) 191 Ramsgate (SA) 409 opening hours 700, see also Ponta d’Ouro (Moz) 181-3 rap 684 individual countries Ponta Malongane (Moz) 181-3 religion 645, 671-2, see also Opuwo (N) 277-8, 3 pony trekking, see horse riding individual religions Organ Pipes (N) 276 population 644, 669 Renamo 230 Oribi Gorge NR (SA) 409 Port Alfred (SA) 384-5 reptiles 688 ostriches 361-2, 666, 667 Port Edward (SA) 408 responsible travel 700-1 Otjinjange Valley (N) 279 Port Elizabeth (SA) 378-82, 380-1 rhinoceroses 47, 141, 660, 13, 661 Otjiwarongo (N) 258-9 Port Shepstone (SA) 408 Rhodes (SA) 395 Otjozondjupa (N) 273-5 Port St Johns (SA) 394-5 Rhodes, Cecil 78, 632 Oudtshoorn (SA) 361-3 Portuguese (language) 728-9 Rhodesia 632-3 Outjo (N) 259 Portuguese Island (Moz) 180 Richard’s Bay (SA) 410 Overberg (SA) 356-60 Robben Island (SA) 329 754 Robberg Nature & Marine Reserve San rock art 18, 647, 648, see also slavery 133-4, 155, 587, 650 (SA) 371 rock-art sites Smith, Ian 633 Robertson (SA) 360 sandboarding 284, 335, 697 Smuts, Jan 458 rock art 18, 647, 648 Sandwich Harbour (N) 289 snake bites 723 rock-art sites Sani Pass (SA) 423-4 snakes 688 Bathplug Cave (SA) 423 Sani Top (L) 101 snorkelling, see diving & snorkelling Giant’s Castle (SA) 422 Sata, Michael 586, 645 soapstone birds 624 Kamberg NR (SA) 423 Savuti (B) 59-60 soccer 157, 329, 496 IN Malealea (L) 103 Savuti Channel (B) 60 Sodwana Bay (SA) 415 DE Matobo NP (Matopos) (Zim) 628 Savuti Marshes (B) 59 Solitaire (N) 297-8 X X Phillips Cave (N) 257 scams 705 solo travellers 705 R-S Quthing (L) 104 scenic flights 63, 536-7 Songo (Moz) 203-4 Royal Natal NP (SA) 419 schistosomiasis (bilharzia) 721 Sossusvlei (N) 8, 296-7, 297, 8 Tsisab Ravine (N) 276 scorpions 722 Sotho-Setswana people 650 Twyfelfontein (N) 276 Scottburgh (SA) 408 South Africa 36, 322-514, 324-5 Wildebeest Kuil Rock Art Centre Scramble for Africa 307, 650, 652 accommodation 322, 500-1 (SA) 484 scuba diving, see diving & snorkelling activities 501-3 rock climbing 132-3, 159, 334-5, 368, sea kayaking, see canoeing & arts 496-7 502, 697 kayaking border crossings 466, 507-9 Roma (L) 12, 100 seals 280, 662, 662 business hours 503 Rongui Island (Moz) 224 secretary birds 664, 664 climate 322 Rorke’s Drift (SA) 427-8 security, see safety considerations courses 504 Rössing Mine (N) 285 Sehlabathebe NP (L) 102-3 culture 495-6 Route 62 (SA) 360-3 Semonkong (L) 12, 103 customs regulations 503 Royal Livingstone Express Senanga (Zam) 577 (Zam) 537 disabilities, travellers with 506 Senga Bay (Mal) 135-6 Royal Natal NP (SA) 419-20 embassies 503-4 Sentinel Hiking Trail (SA) 435 Rozwi people 648 environment 497-500 Sepedi (language) 727 Ruacana (N) 267-8 festivals 383, 436 Serenje (Zam) 578 rugby 496 food & drink 322, 500, 504 Serote, Mongane Wally 497 Rundu (N) 268-9, highlights 324-5 268 Sesfontein (N) 277 Rustenburg (SA) 478 history 490-5 Sesheke (Zam) 577 Rustler’s Valley (SA) 436 holidays 505 Sesotho 730 internet access 504 Sesriem (N) 296-7, 297 language 724-5, 727, 730-1 S sexual violence 671 maps 504 Sabi Sand WR (SA) 463-4 Shaka Zulu 77, 411, 587, 651 money 504-5 (SA) 469-70 Shakaland (SA) 410 national parks 498-500 safaris 18, 28-34, 712-13, 717 shark-cage diving 358, 364 safety considerations 505-6, 513 books 685 Sharpeville massacre 492 telephone services 506 safety considerations 704-5, see Shipwreck Coast (SA) 385 tourist information 506 also individual locations Shiwa Ng’andu (Zam) 581, 582 tours 510, 513-14 driving 32-3, 711-12, 716 Shona (language) 729 travel seasons 322 environmental hazards 722-3 Shona people 650 travel to/from 507-10 hitching 716 Shosholoza Meyl 514 travel within 510-14 infectious diseases 719-22 Siavonga (Zam) 569-70 visas 506-7 overland travel 711-12 Sibebe Rock (S) 517 volunteering 507 wildlife watching 686 Signal Hill (SA) 328 weights & measures 503 sailing, see boat trips Silaka NR (SA) 394 South African Defence Force (SADF) samango monkeys 656, 656 Silverton (SA) 456 Base (N) 267 Samfya (Zam) 580 Sinazongwe (Zam) 570-1 South Coast (SA) 408-9 San people 74, 79-80, 258, 273-4, Sioma (Zam) 577 South Luangwa NP (Zam) 10, 561-5, 647, 648 sitatungas 658 562, 10 books 674 Skeleton Coast (N) 280-1 Southbroom (SA) 409 music 677 Skeleton Coast Park (N) 280-1 Southern African Development Skeleton Coast Wilderness Area Community (SADC) 652 (N) 281 Southern Berg (SA) 422-4 000 Map pages skiing 101 Southern Sotho (language) 730 000 Photo pages skydiving 284, 364, 697 Soutpansberg (SA) 473-5 755 Soutpansberg Mountains (SA) 474 telephone services 529 train travel 717 Soweto (SA) 451-2 tourist information 529 transfrontier parks 692-4, see Sperrgebiet NP (N) 303-4 tours 520, 531 also national parks & nature Spioenkop NR (SA) 427 travel seasons 515 reserves Spitzkoppe (N) 275 travel to/from 530 /Ai/Ais-Richtersveld Transfrontier Park (N) 304 Springbok (SA) 488-9 travel within 530-2 /Ai/Ais-Richtersveld Transfrontier St Lucia (SA) 413-4 visas 529 Park (SA) 489 Stadsaal Caves (SA) 374 Swellendam (SA) 358-60

Chimanimani Transfrontier Conser- IN steam trains 537 Swellendam Hiking Trail (SA) 359 vation Area (Moz) 202 DE Stellenbosch (SA) 349-53, 352-3 swimming, see also beaches Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park Sterkfontein Caves (SA) 452, 646 Malawi 129, 131 (Moz) 184 X S-U Stony Point African Penguin Colony Mozambique 171, 207 Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park (SA) 357 Namibia 284 (Zim) 624-5 Storms River (SA) 377 South Africa 360, 469 internet resources 692 Strandloper Trail (SA) 387 Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park (B) Sturmvogelbucht (N) 301 11, 75-6 Succulent Karoo Biome (N) 303 T Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park (SA) Table Mountain NP (SA) 328, 333, 340 Sun City (SA) 479-80 11, 486-7, 486, 11 Talana Heritage Park & Battlefield surfing 699, see also beaches Trans-Karoo Express, see Shosholoza (SA) 428 Meyl Cape Town (SA) 335 telephone services 15, 705, see travel to/from Southern Africa 708-13 Durban (SA) 401 also individual countries travel within Southern Africa 713-17 Jeffrey’s Bay (SA) 377 Telkom Tower (SA) 439 travellers cheques 704 South Africa 502 Tembe Elephant Park (SA) 416 trekking, see hiking Tofinho (Moz) 189 Temple of Understanding (SA) 400 Truth & Reconciliation Commission sustainable travel 700-1 Tengenenge (Zim) 614, 17 493-4 Swahili-Arab people 650 Tete (Moz) 202-3 Ts’ehlanyane NP (L) 102 Swakopmund (N) 281-8, 282-3 Teyateyaneng (L) 95 travellers’ diarrhoea 722 Swapo 308-9 Thaba-Bosiu (L) 100 Tsisab Ravine (N) 276 Swartberg NR (SA) 372 Thabana-Ntlenyana (L) 100, 101 Tsitsikamma (SA) 375-7 Swartberg Pass (SA) 362, 372 Thabane, Thomas 105 Hills (B) 69 Swartland (SA) 373-5 theme parks 397, 479 Tsonga (language) 730 Swati (language) 730 (SA) 476 Tsumeb (N) 261-3, 262 Swazi ceremonies 522 Three Rondavels (SA) 467 Tsumkwe (N) 273-5 Swazi people 651 ticks 722-3 Tsvangirai, Morgan 634-5 Swaziland 37, 515-32, 516 Timbavati WR (SA) 463 Tswana (language) 730-1 accommodation 515, 528 time 705-6 Tswana people 77, 79 arts 526-7 tipping 704 tuberculosis 721-2 border crossings 530 Tofinho (Moz) 189 Tuli Block (B) 49-51 business hours 528 Tofo (Moz) 188-9 Tumbuka people 651 children, travel with 528 toilets 706 Two Rivers (B) 75 climate 515 Tonga people 570 Twyfelfontein (N) 276-7 culture 526 tourist information 537, 706 typhoid 722 customs regulations 528 tours 712-13, 717, see also safaris Tzaneen (SA) 477 embassies 528 townships environment 527 art 673 food & drink 527-8, 528 Durban (SA) 401 U uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Park (SA) gay travellers 528 Elim (SA) 476 416-17 highlights 516 Galeshewe (SA) 484 Ulundi (SA) 411-12 holidays 528-9 Johannesburg (SA) 437 Umasizakhe township (SA) 389 internet access 529 Katutura (N) 249, 680 Umgeni River Bird Park (SA) 400 internet resources 529 Knysna (SA) 367-8 Umhlanga 522 language 529, 730 Mangaung (SA) 429 Umhlanga Lagoon NR (SA) 410 lesbian travellers 528 Mondesa (N) 285 Umhlanga Rocks (SA) 409-10 maps 529 music 679 uMkhuze GR (SA) 415 money 529 New Brighton (SA) 379 Umkomaas (SA) 408 national parks 527 Soweto (SA) 451-2 Underberg (SA) 423 photography 529 Umasizakhe (SA) 389 Upington (SA) 485-6 postal services 529 traditional religions 672 Uutapi (Ombalantu) (N) 267 756 V Dokolewa Waterfall (SA) 476 Lilongwe Wildlife Centre (Mal) 115 vacations, see holidays under Epupa Falls (N) 278-9 Liwonde Rhino Sanctuary (Mal) 141 individual countries Kalambo Falls (Zam) 583 Madikwe GR (SA) 481 vaccinations 718 Ketane Falls (L) 103 Mahango GR (N) 270 Valley of the Kings (SA) 412 Lisbon Falls (SA) 467 Majete WR (Mal) 12, 153-4, 12 Valley of the Olifants (SA) 476-8 Lone Creek Falls (SA) 469 Maputo Special Reserve (Moz) 183 Vamizi Island (Moz) 224 Mac-Mac Falls (SA) 469 Mkhaya GR (S) 13, 524-5, 13 Van Zyl’s Pass (N) 279 Maletsunyane Falls (L) 103 Moremi GR (B) 70-2, 71 IN vegetarian travellers 676 Manchewe Falls (Mal) 124 Mosi-oa-Tunya GP (Zam) 537, 539 DE Venda (SA) 475-6 Morumbodzi Falls (Moz) 200 Mukuvisi Woodlands Environmental X X Venda (language) 731 Mtazari Falls (Zim) 620 Centre (Zim) 604 V-W Venda people 650 Ngonye Falls (Zam) 577 Nata Bird Sanctuary (B) 51 vervet monkeys 656, 656 Ruacana Falls (N) 267 Ndumo GR (SA) 416 Veterinary Cordon Fence 83 Tugela Falls (SA) 419 Nkhotakota WR (Mal) 134-5 Victoria Falls 6, 533-48, 534, 6 Victoria Falls (Zam) 538 Polokwane GR (SA) 470 accommodation 533 weather 14, 19-21, see also climate Tembe Elephant Park (SA) 416 activities 534-7 under individual countries Tenikwa (SA) 370 climate 533 websites, see internet resources Umgeni River Bird Park (SA) 400 food 533 weights 697 uMkhuze GR (SA) 415 tourist information 537 welwitschia 287 Vwaza Marsh WR (Mal) 127 travel seasons 533, 535 West Coast (SA) 373-5 Wild is Life (Zim) 604 travel to/from 536, 543 West Coast NP (SA) 373 wildlife watching 18, 29, 30, 537, 653- visas 538 (SA) 349-75, 350 68, 686, 690-4, see also national parks & nature reserves, private Zambia 538-44 Western Shores (SA) 414-15 wildlife & conservation reserves, whale watching 356-7, 358, 370, 414 Zimbabwe 544-8 transfrontier parks, wildlife Victoria Falls NP (Zim) 545, 546-7 white-water rafting, see rafting reserves & sanctuaries Wild Card 498 Victoria Falls Private GR (Zim) 537 Windhoek (N) 245-57, 248, 250-1 Victoria Falls Steam Train (Zim) 537 Wild Coast (SA) 391-5, 392-3 accommodation 251-3 Victoria Falls (town) (Zim) 544-8, wild horses 312 activities 251 544 wildebeest 658, 658 attractions 245-51 Vilankulo (Moz) 191-4, 192 Wilderness (SA) 366-7 drinking 254-5 Viphya Plateau (Mal) 132-3 wildlife 685-9 emergency services 255 visas 15, 706-7, see also individual animal welfare 691 entertainment 255 countries, passports books 685, 699 festivals & events 251 volunteering 707 encounters 686 food 253-4 von Bismarck, Otto 307, 650 endangered species 686-7 history 245 Voortrekker Monument (SA) 453 internet resources 686 internet access 255 Voortrekker NR (SA) 453 photography 704 medical services 256 Voortrekkers 397, 424, 426, 428, 453, wildlife reserves & sanctuaries, see money 256 490, 652 also national parks & nature postal services 256 vultures 664, 665 reserves, private wildlife & safety considerations 256 Vwaza Marsh WR (Mal) 127 conservation reserves, transfrontier parks shopping 255 Ann van Dyk Cheetah Centre telephone services 256 W (SA) 458 tourist information 256 walking, see hiking Birds of Eden (SA) 370 travel to/from 256-7 Walvis Bay (N) 288-91, 288-9 Bokong NR (L) 102 travel within 257 Warner Beach (SA) 408 Cape Cross Seal Reserve (N) 280 Winelands (SA) 349-56 water 723 Central Kalahari GR (B) 72-5 wineries 258 Waterberg (SA) 475 Chimpanzee Eden (SA) 464 South Africa 349-72, 353-4, 355, Waterberg Plateau Park (N) 259-60 Elephant Sanctuary (SA) 370, 466 360, 374, 487 waterfalls Franklin GR (SA) 429 Winterton (SA) 420 Augrabies Falls (SA) 487-8 Gaborone GR (B) 41 witchcraft 672 Bridal Veil Falls (SA) 469 Ithala GR (SA) 412 women travellers 707 Debengeni Falls (SA) 476 Khama Rhino Sanctuary (B) 47 World Heritage sites Khutse GR (B) 75 Cradle of Humankind (SA) 452 Lilongwe Nature Sanctuary (Mal) Great Zimbabwe (Zim) 13, 622-4, 000 Map pages 115 632, 648, 650, 623, 13, 648 000 Photo pages 757 iSimangaliso Wetland Park (SA) Z children, travel with 638 413-16 Zambezi NP (Zim) 545 culture 635 Khami Ruins (Zim) 625 Zambia 37, 549-601, 550-1 customs regulations 638 Lake Malawi NP (Mal) 136-9 accommodation 549, 564, 592-3 embassies 638-9 Makapan’s Caves (SA) 472 activities 593 environment 636-7 Mana Pools NP (Zim) 615 border crossings 597-8 food & drink 602, 637, 639 Mapungubwe NP (SA) 475 business hours 593 gay travellers 639 Matobo NP (Matopos) (Zim) 628-9 climate 549 highlights 603 IN Mozambique Island (Moz) 210-13, embassies 593 history 632-5 211 DE environment 589-92 holidays 640 Robben Island & Nelson Mandela X festivals 593-4 internet access 639 Gateway (SA) 329 W-Z food & drink 594 language 727, 729 Sterkfontein (SA) 452 highlights 550-1 legal matters 639 Tsodilo Hills (B) 69 history 586-9 lesbian travellers 639 Twyfelfontein (N) 276 holidays 595 money 639-40 uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Park national parks 637 (SA) 416-17 internet access 594 postal services 640 Victoria Falls (Zam) 538 language 725, 727 safety considerations 640 Vredefort Dome (SA) 434 maps 595 telephone services 640 World’s View (Malindidzimu Hill) money 595 (Zim) 628 national parks 590-1 travel to/from 640-2 World’s View (Nyanga NP) (Zim) safety considerations 595-6 travel within 642 619-20 telephone services 596 visas 538, 640 tours 600 Zimbabwe African National Union (ZANU) 632-4 X travel seasons 549 travel to/from 597-8 Zimbabwe African Peoples’ Union Xai-Xai (Moz) 185 (ZAPU) 632-4 travel within 598-601 Xakanaxa Lediba (B) 70 ziplining 537 visas 538, 596 Xhosa (language) 731 Zomba (Mal) 142, 143 Xhosa people 650, 652 zebras 660, 7, 660 Zomba Plateau (Mal) 143-4, 144 Zimbabwe 37, 602-42, 603 xylophone 680 zoos 552 accommodation 602, 637-8 Zulu (language) 731 activities 638 427-8, 490, 651, 650 Y arts 635-6 yellow fever 722 Zululand (SA) 410-12 border crossings 641-2 youth hostels 696-7 Zuma, Jacob 494-5 business hours 638 736

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.

me crazy, but whose strength and spirit OUR READERS inspires me and gives me courage. Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us Kate Armstrong with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: A special thanks to the Raw family and Katie Hector Arguelles, Emma Beumer, Jochen McCarthy for their kindness and ongoing Fuchs, Pierre Gaspart, Danica Hantke, Lars help, and to fellow writer Tom Spurling for Hellvig, Andrew Hobson, Jennifer Jader, doing the groundwork in Lesotho. Huge Beathe Legind, Dan McGovern, Hazel Nel- thanks to coordinator Alan and the Lonely son, Nancy O’Grady, Michal Onderco, Wrelf Planet team. Rolf, Ellen Van Brandenburg, Katrijn Van Loo, Lucy Corne Sandra Van Maarseveen, James Wesson, Thanks to my mum and dad for first intro- Kyle Zieba ducing me to this wonderful country, and to my husband, Shawn, for finding an excuse AUTHOR THANKS to keep us here. Thanks to Kate Armstrong for her KZN tips and to Elmar Neethling and Alan Murphy Ed Salomons for all the Durban and Drak- A big thanks to my travel companion and ensberg insights, to Gary Pnematicatos for friend Smitzy for his patience, advice and bringing me up to speed on Cape Town’s adventurous spirit (and for not getting nightlife and to my boys for being the best further traffic infringements). In Namibia travel companions ever. At Lonely Planet I’d there are too many to thank but special like to say enkosi to Alan, Glenn, David, Lucy mention to Almuth Styles in Swakopmund and Brigitte for their help and support. whose assistance was much appreciated, and to the honorary consul in Windhoek for Mary Fitzpatrick making me legal again after my ID was stolen. Many thanks to all those who helped me with Thanks to the numerous CEs at LP that I this update, to Alan for being such a great worked with and to my coauthors whose coordinating author and for the extra words, work on this guide was outstanding. To my and – most of all – to Rick, Christopher, gorgeous wife, Alison, whose dancing drives Dominic and Gabriel for their company, patience and good humour. 737 Michael Grosberg Sally Wynn for her unparalleled knowledge of Kariba and around, Choice Mushunje Thanks to all those who welcomed me with from Zimbabwe Parks, Gordon Adams, Ann open arms and shared their insight, experi- Bruce and Jane High from the east, and ence and knowledge of Zambia: Amy Wald- Val from Bulawayo. Thanks also to all the man, Oli Dreike, Andy Hogg, Jess and Ade travellers we met, including John and Linda Salmon, Alec Cole and Emma Wood, Tyrone Hutton for all the suggestions. Finally huge McKeith, Linda van Heerden, Greg Heltzer, thanks to the production team, particularly Riccardo Garbaccio, Meegan Treen, Natalie Will Gourlay, Glenn van der Knijff and coor- Clark, Adrian Penny, Lynda and Rick Schulz, B

dinating author Alan Murphy. EH Glenn Evans, Sheila Donnelly, Ian Stevenson (who let me ‘co-spot’ on an antipoaching Richard Waters IN flight over the Lower Zambezi), Mindy Rob- D erts, Nathalie Zanoli and Samrat Datta. My special thanks to Rob and Lindsay T McConaghy and their excellent team who HE

provided specialist advice every step of the

Anthony Ham SCE Andy Raggett of Drive Botswana was an way; Chris Badger, Zane, and Emma and Chris; Gaye Russell, Kate Webb and my invaluable source of information at all stages N of the journey. Thanks also to Mike Romeo, Malawian pal Gareth Watson for keeping me ES Will Gourlay, Alan Murphy, Glyn Maude, company. Thanks also to James Lightfoot Keitumetse Ngaka, Olefile Sebogiso, Nick for his valuable help. Finally my gratitude to Jacobsen, Monika Schiess and to Jan and the people of Malawi who remain in adver- Cleo in Khutse. Special thanks to Jan and sity among the most decent I’ve ever met. Ron, and to my three girls Marina, Carlota and Valentina: Os quiero con todo mi corazon. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Trent Holden & Kate Morgan Climate Map Data Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA There are some huge thank yous to give out (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen- for the help we received while researching. Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and First up thanks to Joy in Victoria Falls, and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633­44. Kim in Livingstone for all your assistance in getting some of the nitty gritty stuff down Cover photograph: Lion in fynbos (fine bush) pat. The Seremwe brothers, James and field, South Africa, Hoberman Collection/ George, for all their guidance and assistance. Corbis©

bourne office, and produced by Kiely, Susan Paterson, Erin THIS BOOK the following: Richards, Luna Soo, Ross Taylor, This 6th edition of Lonely Jeanette Wall Planet’s Southern Africa Commissioning Editor guidebook was researched Glenn van der Knijff Assisting Cartographers and written by Alan Murphy Coordinating Editors Alison Xavier Di Toro, Jolyon Philcox, (coordinating author), Kate Ridgway, Saralinda Turner Peter Shields Armstrong, Lucy Corne, Mary Coordinating Cartogra- Cover Research Naomi Fitzpatrick, Michael Grosberg, pher Brendan Streager Parker Anthony Ham, Trent Holden Coordinating Layout Internal Image Research and Kate Morgan, and Richard Designer Carol Jackson David Nelson Waters. David Lukas wrote the Managing Editors Barbara Language Content text that formed the basis of Delissen, Brigitte Ellemor Branislava Vladisavljevic the Wildlife chapter and Jane Cornwell wrote the Music in Managing Cartographers Southern Africa chapter. The Alison Lyall, Adrian Persoglia Thanks to Frank Deim, Bruce previous edition was also Managing Layout Evans, Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, coordinated by Alan Murphy. Designer Chris Girdler Genesys , Jouve India, Annelies Mertens, Trent Paton, This guidebook was commis- Assisting Editors Sarah Bai- Kerrianne Southway, Joseph sioned in Lonely Planet’s Mel- ley, Andrew Bain, Penny ­Cordner, Kate Daly, Andrea Dobbin, Kate Spanti, Gerard Walker ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’