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1 The Best of Seattle

Imagine yourself sitting in a park on the Seattle waterfront, a double-tall latte and an almond croissant close at hand. The snowy peaks of the Olympic Moun- tains are shimmering on the far side of Puget Sound, and the ferryboats are com- ing and going across Elliott Bay. It’s a summer day, and the sun is shining. (Hey, as long as we’re dreaming, why not dream big?) It just doesn’t get much better than this, unless of course you swap the latte for a microbrew and catch a 9:30 summer sunset. No wonder people love this town so much. Okay, so the waterfront is as touristy as San Francisco’s Fisherman’s Wharf, but what a view! Seattle is a city of views, and the must-see vista is, of course, the panorama from the top of the Space Needle. With the 21st century in full swing, this image of the future looks decidedly mid-20th-century modern, but still, it’s hard to resist an expensive elevator ride in any city. And you can even take a monorail straight out of The Jetsons to get there (and pass right through the Frank Gehry–designed Experience Music Project en route). EMP, as the Experience Music Project has come to be known, is one of Seat- tle’s latest architectural oddities. Its swooping, multicolored, metal-skinned bulk rises at the foot of the Space Needle, proof that real 21st-century architecture looks nothing like the vision of the future people dreamed of when the Space Needle was built for the 1962 Seattle World’s Fair. EMP is the brainchild of Microsoft cofounder Paul Allen, who built this rock ’n’ roll cathedral to house his vast collection of Northwest rock memorabilia. Paul Allen’s money has also been hard at work changing the architectural face of the south end of downtown Seattle, where, in March 2000, the Kingdome stadium came crashing down, imploded to make way for the new, state-of-the- art Seahawks Stadium, which is home to Allen’s Seattle Seahawks NFL football team. Together with the Seattle Mariners Safeco Field, the Seahawks Stadium has created a massive sports arena district at the south end of downtown Seattle. Allen projects aside, Seattle has become one of the nation’s most talked-about and popular cities, and life here has undergone dramatic changes in recent years. An influx of urban residents has brought a new vibrancy to the downtown area. As the city has grown wealthier and more sophisticated, it has built itself not just a new football stadium and a retractable-roof baseball stadium (Safeco Field), but also chic condominiums, a new symphony hall, glittering new hotels, and countless upscale restaurants and shops. Still in the works are a controversial light-rail system and an extension of Seattle’s monorail—although both projects have repeatedly stalled and may end up being sidetracked completely. It’s clear that Seattle has not grown complacent. Sure, it’s become a congested city, with traffic problems rivaling those of L.A. And yes, the weather really is lousy for most of the year. But Seattleites manage to overcome these minor inconveniences, in large part by spilling out into the streets and parks whenever the sun shines. To visit Seattle in the summer is to witness an exodus; follow the 03 541277 Ch01.qxd 11/17/03 9:37 AM Page 4

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lead of the locals and head for the great outdoors. Should you brave a visit in the rainy season, don’t despair: There are compensations for such misfortune, including a roof on Pike Place Market and an espresso bar on every block.

WATER, WATER around, Seattle has become a city of EVERYWHERE . . . & FORESTS boaters, who take to the water in every- & MOUNTAINS, TOO thing from regally appointed yachts to Though the times may be a-changing slender sea kayaks. Consequently, the for Seattle, one thing has stayed the opening day of boating season has same—the beautiful and wild landscape become one of Seattle’s most popular that surrounds the city. The sparkling annual festivals. waters of Elliott Bay, Lake Union, and A CITY DRIVEN BY CAFFEINE Lake Washington wrap around this city Despite Seattle’s affinity for its nearby of shimmering skyscrapers, and forests natural environment, this city is best of evergreens crowd the city limits. known as the coffee capital of Amer- Everywhere you look, another breath- ica. To understand Seattle’s coffee taking vista unfolds. With endless boat- addiction, it is necessary to study the ing opportunities and beaches and city’s geography and climate. Seattle mountains within a few hours’ drive, lies at almost 50 degrees north lati- Seattle is ideally situated for the outdoor tude, which means that winter days pursuits that are so important to the are short. The sun comes up around fabric of life in the Northwest. 7:30am, goes down as early as 4:30pm, Few other cities in the United States and is frequently hidden behind leaden are as immersed in the outdoor aes- skies. A strong stimulant is almost a thetic as Seattle. The Cascade Range lies necessity to get people out of bed less than 50 miles to the east of down- through the gray days of winter. Seat- town Seattle, and across Puget Sound tleites love to argue over which espresso stand the Olympic Mountains. In the bar or cafe in town serves the best cof- spring, summer, and fall, the forests and fee (and the answer isn’t always Star- mountains attract hikers, mountain bucks, despite the famous coffee bikers, anglers, and campers, and in company’s global expansion from its winter the ski areas of Snoqualmie Pass humble beginnings in Seattle’s Pike and Stephens Pass draw snowboarders Place Market). and skiers. Seattle’s popularity and rapid Though impressive mountains line growth, however, have not been both the city’s eastern and western entirely smooth. The streets and high- horizons, a glance to the southeast on ways have been unable to handle the a sunny day will reveal the city’s most increased traffic load, and commuting treasured sight—Mount Rainier, a has become almost as nightmarish as it 14,410-foot-tall dormant volcano that is in California, whence so many of the looms large, so unexpected that it city’s recent transplants fled (ironically, demands your attention. When “the partly due to the traffic congestion). Mountain is out,” as they say here in With roads growing ever more crowded Seattle, Seattleites head for the hills. and the cost of living continuing to However, as important as “the rise, Seattle may not be the Emerald Mountain” is to Seattle, it is water that City it once was, but it remains a truly defines the city’s character. To the metropolis in a singularly spectacular west lies Elliott Bay, an arm of Puget setting and a superb summertime vaca- Sound; to the east is Lake Washington; tion destination. and right in the middle of the city is Lake Union. With so much water all 03 541277 Ch01.qxd 11/17/03 9:37 AM Page 5

FROMMER’S FAVORITE SEATTLE EXPERIENCES 5

1 Frommer’s Favorite Seattle Experiences • Taking in the Sunset from the brewpubs, a great flea market, and Waterfront. On a clear summer the city’s best public art make this day, the setting sun silhouettes the the most eccentric neighborhood Olympic Mountains on the far side in Seattle. of Puget Sound and makes the • Attending a Show at the 5th view from the Seattle waterfront Avenue Theatre. This historic the- truly memorable. Try the rooftop ater was designed to resemble the park at the Bell Street Pier, Myrtle imperial throne room in Beijing’s Edwards Park at the north end of Forbidden City. Can you say the waterfront, or the lounge at the ornate? Nothing else in Seattle com- Edgewater Hotel. pares, including the show onstage. • Riding a Ferry Across Puget • Going to the Spring Flower and Sound. Sure you can spend $20 Garden Show. Each spring, gar- or $30 for a narrated tour of the dening madness descends on the Seattle waterfront, but for a frac- Washington State Convention and tion of that, you can take a ferry to Trade Center in the form of one of Bremerton or Bainbridge Island the largest flower-and-garden shows and see not just Elliott Bay but in the country. This show has more plenty more of Puget Sound. Keep than 5 acres of garden displays and an eye out for porpoises, orcas, hundreds of vendors. and bald eagles. • Catching Concerts at Bumber- • Eating Your Way Through Pike shoot. It isn’t often that you can Place Market. Breakfast at Le agonize over which great music Panier, espresso at the original Star- performance to attend next, but bucks, lunch at Café Campagne, a that’s just what you have to do at martini at The Pink Door, dinner the annual Labor Day music and at Chez Shea, Celtic music at Kells, arts extravaganza known as Bum- and a nightcap at Il Bistro—that’s bershoot. Whether your tastes run how you could spend a day at Pike to Grieg or grunge, salsa or swing, Place. Between stops on this rigor- you’ll have plenty of choices. ous itinerary, you can people- • Riding the Monorail. Though the watch, listen to street musicians, ride is short, covering a distance and shop for everything from fresh that could easily be walked in half salmon to tropical fruits to magic an hour, the monorail provides a tricks to art glass to live parrots. different perspective on the city. • Relaxing Over a Latte. If the rain The retro-futurist transport, built and gray skies start to get to you, for the Seattle World’s Fair in 1962, there is no better pick-me-up ends at the foot of the Space Needle (short of a ticket to the tropics) and even passes right through the than a frothy latte in a cozy cafe. Experience Music Project. Grab a magazine and just hang • Spending an Afternoon at Vol- out until the rain stops (maybe unteer Park. Whether the day is sometime in July). sunny or gray, this park on Capi- • Wandering Around Fremont. tol Hill is a great spot to spend an This quirky neighborhood consid- afternoon. You can relax in the ers itself the center of the universe, grass, study Chinese snuff bottles but it’s really a little bit left of cen- in the Seattle Asian Art Museum, ter. Retro clothing and vintage marvel at the orchids in the park’s furniture stores, cafes, a couple of conservatory, or simply enjoy the 03 541277 Ch01.qxd 11/17/03 9:37 AM Page 6

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great view of the city from the top of these sports. The trail around of the park’s water tower. Green Lake is the all-time favorite, • Enjoying a Day at the Woodland but the Burke-Gilman/Sammamish Park Zoo. The cages are almost River Trail, the trail along the west- completely gone from this big zoo, ern shore of Lake Washington, the replaced by spacious animal habi- trail along Alki Beach, and the trail tats that give the residents the feel- through Myrtle Edwards Park at ing of being back at home in the the north end of the Seattle water- wild. Zebras gallop, brown bears front are equally good choices. romp, river otters cavort, elephants • Sea Kayaking on Lake Union. stomp, and orangutans swing. The Lake Union is a very urban body levels of activity here make it clear of water, but it has a great view of that the animals are happy with the Seattle skyline, and you can their surroundings. paddle right up to several water- • Strolling Through the Arboretum front restaurants. For more natu- in Spring. Winters in Seattle may ral surroundings, kayak over to not be long, but they do lack color. the marshes at the north end of So, when spring hits, the sudden the Washington Park Arboretum. bursts of brightness it brings are • Exploring a Waterfront Park. reverently appreciated. There’s no Seattle abounds in waterfront parks better place in the city to enjoy the where you can gaze out at distant spring floral displays than the shores, wiggle your toes in the Washington Park Arboretum. sand, or walk through a remnant • Walking, Jogging, Biking, or patch of old-growth forest. Some Skating a Seattle Path. There are of our favorites include Discovery several paved trails around the city Park, Seward Park, Lincoln Park, that are ideal for pursuing any and Golden Gardens Park.

2 Best Hotel Bets • Best Historic Hotel: Built in 1924, Point, Kirkland (& 800/822- the Fairmont Olympic Hotel, 411 3700 or 425/822-3700; www.the University St. (& 800/223-8772 woodmark.com). Not only are or 206/621-1700; www.fairmont. rooms set up for taking care of com/seattle), is styled after Italian business, but most have water Renaissance palaces and is by far the views. See p. 61 and 77. most impressive of Seattle’s handful • Best for a Romantic Getaway: of historic hotels. The grand lobby Though Seattle has quite a few is unrivaled. See p. 61. hotels that do well for a romantic • Best for Business Travelers: If weekend, the Inn at the Market, your company has sent you to 86 Pine St. (& 800/446-4484 or Seattle to close a big deal, insist on 206/443-3600; www.innatthe the best. Stay at the Grand Hyatt market.com), with its Elliott Bay Seattle, 721 Pine St. (& 800/233- views, European atmosphere, and 1234 or 206/774-1234; http:// proximity to many excellent (and grandseattle.hyatt.com), and you romantic) restaurants, is sure to can avail yourself of all kinds set the stage for lasting memories. of high-tech amenities. If you’re See p. 67. here on Microsoft business, head • Best Trendy Hotel: The W Seat- for the Woodmark Hotel on tle, 1112 Fourth Ave. (& 877/ Lake Washington, 1200 Carillon W-HOTELS or 206/264-6000; 03 541277 Ch01.qxd 11/17/03 9:37 AM Page 7

BEST HOTEL BETS 7

www.whotels.com/seattle), one of public spaces, very tasteful decor, a chain of ultrahip hotels that and a swimming pool in the back- have become popular with the yard all add up to unexpected lux- dot-com generation, has brought ury for a Seattle B&B. See p. 73. to Seattle a high-end hipness that • Best Service: The Alexis Hotel, also emphasizes service. Dressing 1007 First Ave. (& 800/426-7033 entirely in black is de rigueur. See or 206/624-4844; www.alexis p. 62. hotel.com), a downtown boutique • Best for Families: Located just hotel, is small enough to offer that across the street from Lake Union, personal touch. See p. 60. the Silver Cloud Inns Seattle– • Best Location: Located on a pier Lake Union, 1150 Fairview Ave. right on the Seattle waterfront, N (& 800/330-5812 or 206/447- The Edgewater, Pier 67, 2411 9500; www.silvercloud.com), is far Alaskan Way (& 800/624-0670 enough from downtown to be or 206/728-7000; www.edgewater affordable and yet has a great loca- hotel.com), is only 5 blocks from tion overlooking the lake and is not Pike Place Market and the Seattle far from Seattle Center. There are Aquarium and 3 blocks from the indoor and outdoor pools and sev- restaurants of Belltown. The eral restaurants right across the Waterfront Streetcar, which goes street. See p. 72. to Pioneer Square and the Interna- • Best Moderately Priced Hotel: tional District, stops right in front The Best Western University of the hotel; and ferries to Victo- Tower Hotel, 4507 Brooklyn Ave. ria, British Columbia, leave from NE (& 800/899-0251 or 206/ the adjacent pier. See p. 57. 634-2000; www.universitytower • Best Health Club: So, you’re on hotel.com), is surprisingly reason- the road again, but you don’t want ably priced for what you get, to give up your circuit training. which is one of the most stylish Don’t worry; bring your gym gear contemporary accommodations in and book a room at the Bellevue Seattle. Ask for a room on an Club Hotel, 11200 Sixth St. SE, upper floor, and you’ll also get Bellevue (& 800/579-1110 or good views. See p. 74. 425/454-4424; www.bellevueclub. • Best Budget Hotel: Located a com), where you’ll have access to a 5-minute drive from Seattle Cen- huge private health club complete ter, the Howard Johnson Express with an indoor pool and tennis Inn, 2500 Aurora Ave. N (& 877/ courts. See p. 76. 284-1900 or 206/284-1900; www. • Best Hotel Pool: Most hotels in hojo.com), may not be the newest the city center stick their swim- budget hotel in town, but it cer- ming pool (if they have one at all) tainly has the best views. Set high down in the basement or on some on the northern slopes of Queen hidden-away terrace, but at the Anne Hill, the motel has a great Sheraton Seattle Hotel and Tow- view of Lake Union. See p. 69. ers, 1400 Sixth Ave. (& 800/325- • Best B&B: Set in the Capitol Hill 3535 or 206/621-9000; www. neighborhood, The Gaslight Inn, sheraton.com/seattle), you can do 1727 15th Ave. (& 206/325- laps up on the top floor with the 3654; www.gaslight-inn.com), is lights of the city twinkling all a lovingly restored and maintained around you. See p. 63. Craftsman bungalow filled with • Best Views: If you’re not back in original Stickley furniture. Lots of your room by sunset at the Westin 03 541277 Ch01.qxd 11/17/03 9:37 AM Page 8

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Seattle, 1900 Fifth Ave. (& 800/ are plush enough to please the WESTIN-1 or 206/728-1000; most demanding of hedonists. See www.westin.com/seattle), you may p. 76. not turn into a pumpkin, but you • Best for Pets: If you’ll be traveling will miss a spectacular light show. to Seattle with your pooch and Because this is the tallest hotel in don’t mind shelling out big bucks the city, the Westin boasts fabu- for a top-end hotel, then the Alexis lous views from its upper floors, Hotel, 1007 First Ave.(& 800/ especially those facing northwest. 426-7033 or 206/624-4844; www. See p. 64. alexishotel.com), should be your • Best Room Decor: If you plan to home away from home. For an spend a lot of time in your room, additional $30, they offer a special then a room at the Bellevue Club Pet Amenities package that includes Hotel, 11200 Sixth St. SE, Belle- dog treats, distilled water and water vue (& 800/579-1110 or 425/ bowl, and morning and afternoon 454-4424; www.bellevueclub.com), walks. See p. 60. is the place to be. The rooms here

3 Best Dining Bets • Best Spot for a Romantic Din- but there’s no place in town with ner: At Chez Shea, Corner Mar- views to rival these. See p. 96. ket Building, 94 Pike St., Suite • Best Outdoor Dining with a 34 (& 206/467-9990; www. View: Located across Elliott Bay chezshea.com), in a quiet corner from downtown Seattle, Salty’s on of Pike Place Market, candlelit Alki Beach, 1936 Harbor Ave. tables, subdued lighting, views of SW (& 206/937-1600; www. ferries crossing the bay, plus saltys.com), has a gorgeous view of superb meals add up to the per- the Seattle skyline. You can even fect combination for a romantic get here by water taxi. See p. 105. dinner. See p. 92. • Best Wine List: Canlis, 2576 • Best Waterfront Dining: Pal- Aurora Ave. N (& 206/283- isade, Elliott Bay Marina, 2601 3313; www.canlis.com), has been W. Marina Place (& 206/285- around for almost 50 years, so the 1000), has a 180-degree view that folks here have had plenty of time takes in Elliott Bay, downtown to develop an extensive and well- Seattle, and West Seattle. Never thought-out wine list. See p. 96. mind that it also has great food • Best Value: While Wild Ginger and some of the most memorable usually gets all the accolades for decor of any Seattle restaurant, its Pan-Asian cuisine, Belltown’s with a saltwater tide-pool pond in little Noodle Ranch, 2228 Sec- the middle of the dining room ond Ave. (& 206/728-0463), is and beautiful koa wood details every bit as good, despite a more everywhere. See p. 97. limited menu. See p. 91. • Best View: There’s no question • Best for Kids: Located on the here. SkyCity at the Needle, Seat- south shore of Lake Union, tle Center, 400 Broad St. (& 800/ Cucina! Cucina!, Chandler’s Cove, 937-9582 or 206/905-2100; 901 Fairview Ave. N (& 206/447- www.spaceneedle.com), has the 2782; www.cucinacucina.com), is best views in Seattle—360 degrees Seattle’s most popular family worth of them. Sure it’s expensive, restaurant because of all the things 03 541277 Ch01.qxd 11/17/03 9:37 AM Page 9

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they do here to make dining out • Best Steaks: Metropolitan Grill, fun for kids. Adults like it, too. See 820 Second Ave. (& 206/624- p. 101. 3287; www.themetropolitangrill. • Best Service: Canlis, 2576 Aurora com), in downtown Seattle, serves Ave. N (& 206/283-3313; www. corn-fed, aged beef grilled over canlis.com), is a Seattle tradition, mesquite charcoal. Steaks just the perfect place to close a big deal don’t get any better than this. See or celebrate a very special occa- p. 86. sion. When you want to feel pam- • Best Burger: We all have our own pered, this is the place to dine. See ideas of what constitutes the per- p. 96. fect burger, and here in Seattle • Best French: Tucked into a there are plenty of worthy con- quiet courtyard in a secluded tenders. We split our vote between corner of Pike Place Market, the burgers at Two Bells Tavern, Campagne, Inn at the Market, 2313 Fourth Ave. (& 206/441- 86 Pine St. (& 206/728-2800; 3050), and those at the 74th St. www.campagnerestaurant.com), is Ale House, 7401 Greenwood a casually elegant little restaurant Ave. N (& 206/784-2955; www. that makes the most of fresh seattlealehouses.com). See p. 91 market produce, meats, and fish. and 105. There are even views of Elliott • Best Desserts: The Dahlia Lounge, Bay. See p. 92. 2001 Fourth Ave. (& 206/682- • Best Northwest Cuisine: Chef 4142; www.tomdouglas.com), has Thierry Rautureau at Rover’s, long been one of the best restau- 2808 E. Madison St. (& 206/325- rants in Seattle, and while the 7442; www.rovers-seattle.com), food is reliably tasty, the triple combines his love of local ingredi- coconut cream pie is absolutely ents with his classic French training divine. The rest of the desserts are to produce his own distinctive take pretty good, too. See p. 89. on Northwest cuisine. See p. 102. • Best Late-Night Dining: Palace • Best Seafood: Chef Tom Douglas Kitchen, 2030 Fifth Ave. (& 206/ seems to be able to do no wrong, 448-2001; www.tomdouglas.com), and at Etta’s Seafood, 2020 West- is an urbane palace of food that ern Ave. (& 206/443-6000; www. serves tasty specialties from the grill tomdouglas.com), he focuses his and rotisserie until 1am. The bar culinary talents on more than just here is also a happening place. See his famed crab cakes. See p. 93. p. 90. • Best Place to Slurp Down Raw • Best Espresso: Torrefazione, 320 Oysters: The Northwest produces Occidental Ave. S (& 206/624- an astonishing variety of oysters, 5847), 622 Olive Way (& 206/ and locals are almost as obsessive 624-1429), and a couple of other about their bivalves as they are locations, serves its brew in hand- about coffee and beer. For the best painted Italian crockery, and offers selection, head to Elliott’s, Pier delectable pastries to accompany 56, 1201 Alaskan Way (& 206/ your espresso. See p. 106. 623-4340). See p. 83.