INSIDE: Disney Does 4 The Details Harvest Time: Volunteer at an Italian Farm 6 Castellammare: Gourmet Tours of Venice 6 Afitta Camere Francesca C. da Magazzinazzi, 165 Florence Shopping Finds 7 Marina (39) 0924 597739 Rome with Kids 7 www.affittacamerefrancesca.it Italian Government Tourism Board Tourism Italian Government Rates: Rooms cost about 65€ a night.A wonderful local cook, Francesca, prepares full dinners for just 20€ per person. dream of : Pina Parisi ® Via C.A. Pepoli, 55 (39) 0923 869049 www.pinaparisi.it

La Bottega dei Sapori Via V. Emanuele, 21 (39) 0923 869641 www.labottegadeisapori.net ITALYVolume 6, Issue 8 www.dreamofitaly.com October 2007 Pasticceria Grammatico Via Vittorio Emanuele, 14 (39) 0923 869390 The Quiet Jewels of www.mariagrammatico.it

Maria Grammatico’s world-famous pastry shop sells frutta di martorana (marzipan WESTERN candies), cudduredde (fig biscuits), crostate di marmellata (jam tarts), mostaccioli di Erice (Erice cinnamon biscuits) and other delica- hen Americans visit Sicily, land- west rather than east for a taste of cies. Maria, a former nun, was the subject ing and departing from what this region has to offer. of Bitter Almonds: Recollections and Recipes Wor Catania, they often follow the from a Sicilian Girlhood by Mary Taylor Simeti. well-developed tourist tracks to the Castellammare was our base for three predictable yet never disappointing nights and we were well positioned to Castello di Venere Open daily, 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. sights such as Taormina, visit , Erice and No admission fee. Siracusa, Agrigento and . This town has Piazza Armerina. Yet this often showed up in the path makes them miss eyes of America as the Scopello: the enormously wonder- place where Italy’s mafiosi La Crapraria ful towns and cities have been regaled and Via A. Diaz just beyond the two rewarded for their das- Open daily. gateways. tardly deeds. However, (39) 339 1005668 Affitta Camere Francesca with the push of the mani E-mail: [email protected] Often overlooked is the westernmost puliti initiative of Italian magistrates Pensione Tranchina portion of this enigmatic and com- and Antonio Borsellino, Via A, Diaz pelling island that takes visitors to the the power of the mob has been safely (39) 0924 541099 saltpans of Trapani, the heights of Erice pushed back. Both men have been lion- E-mail: [email protected] and the coastline of Castellammare del ized for their courage and integrity as Rates: 80€ per night with elaborate Golfo. This summer, we opted to take you will see on a pillar inscribed with breakfast. Eurofly’s new nonstop service between their names along the Autostrada on the New York and Palermo, but drove continued on page 2 continued on page 3 Italy’s geographic coordinates are 42° 50’ N, 12° 50’ E. “It seems that cities that have had centuries’ old relationships with Western Sicily continued from page 1 the world beyond their island through trade, for instance, are capable of communicating that openness upon one’s first visit..” S.Vito lo Capo way to Palermo in Scopello tourists can actually choose the area of Capaci, Palermo to watch in May and June, Erice Castellammare where they were though it is not for everyone as it assassinated. Trapani Segesta is actually the slaughter of tuna. Sicily Until recently, much of Japan’s tuna In any case, tourists for sushi arrived right from need not be frightened , which is about 10 miles Catania by its reputation, as off the Trapanese coast. For insight Castellammare is a Agrigento into this fascinating and mysterious slightly gritty, hilly world of the tonnara, pick up and energetic town built Theresa Maggio’s book, Mattanza: on the edge of Sicily’s Expect to pay The Ancient Sicilian Ritual of Tuna northern coast. Its peo- about six euros to Ragusa Fishing (and see Dream of Italy’s ple are sophisticated, park your car in the September/ October 2002 interview earthy and friendly to lot, gain access to the park with Maggio). tourists and its beaches are worth and beaches, but you can drive away visiting. to Scopello for lunch and return for a Trapani’s fiore di sale and saltpans stand dip with the same ticket. like bright white pyramids in the Staying on the edge of Castellammare blinding summer sun and are among is a good bet for beachgoers as you can Salt Capital the most important in Europe. Most of walk from your B&B, take the train for the production takes place in July and a daytrip into Palermo rather than Trapani stands out as perhaps Sicily’s August and, and if weather permits, drive (something to avoid at any cost) most organized city. Its boulevards are can be harvested up to three times. 2 and take excursions to nearby towns. wide and in general traverse the city Visit the Nubia Salt Museum for more We stayed at Affitta Camere Francesca, a from sea to sea…from details on this fascinating bed-and-breakfast just a 10-minute Piazzetta Saturno to aspect of the city. To buy walk from the beach. The rooms are the fishing port across trapanese salt, which is spacious, some with its hook of a harbor. purportedly rich in overlooking the sea. Jutting out into the iodine and other trace Mediterranean Sea minerals, visit Sale Marino Additionally, this zona, as the Italians like a long sickle, Artigianale of the

call it, is home to a few old fishing vil- with the Ligny Tower, Board Tourism Italian Government Consorzio Sale Natura Salt mining in Trapani lages as well as a phenomenal park a former watchtower, Company. reserve called Lo Zingaro or the Gypsy. now home to the Museum of Its well-marked trails are reasonably Prehistory, balanced on its extreme tip, Less known is that Trapani’s coral was easy for average walkers. The trails are Trapani is a wide, open city that wel- considered among the finest in the 16th rocky in spots and hilly but not steep, comes visitors. century representing a great source of and every step of the way hikers are wealth for the city. Unlike many other treated to panoramic views of marble It seems cities that have had centuries’ crafts that fall into oblivion, Trapani’s and limestone cliffs that drop old relationships with the world young artisans have taken up the tradi- precipitously to the sea in grottoes beyond their island through trade, for tional art of crafting coral, which can and secluded coves of turquoise blue instance, are capable of communicating be viewed in shops along Trapani’s waters. that openness upon one’s first visit. Its fashionable boulevards. port remains a hub for island hopping The beaches are open to the public and to the Egadi Islands of , A walk during the Italian equivalent of rather than climb to San Vito, many Favignana and Marettimo as well as to a siesta leaves the town to a group of visitors stop in to the museums in the the mainland ports and even in visitors happy to take photos and stare park — one devoted to basket weaving Northern Africa. at whimsical doorways, lintels and and the other to the once fruitful imaginative and elaborate details on industry of the manna tree — and head The obvious industries here are fishing the newly refreshed facades of bank down the inclines to the beaches. and salt. The mattanza is an event and government buildings, the first to Segesta was the ancient city of the Elymi, receive the monies to carry out such with a light touch of sauce made from climb its silent streets (the lanes away projects. Visitors can join Trapani resi- frutta secca () or tagliatelle zaf- from the shops), its steep marble dents in the leafy parks before heading ferana (pasta with saffron). stoned alleyways past its discreet gray up to the funierice or cable car that houses, often set behind walls, perhaps climbs the half mile up to Erice or drive Where Time Stands Still a vestige of its Arab past. Study the if you like up Via Vito Carvini. Unlike stones you walk upon, smooth with Trapani below, which was rebuilt after Set at over 2,500 feet above Trapani, age and time and set in delightful pat- World War II, Erice retains its medieval Erice stands at the peak of Monte San terns almost like carpets on the hills. ambiance with a labyrinth of narrow Giuliano, often wrapped in mist, but in streets and some 60 old churches. spring is simply crowned by oleander, Among the most outstanding artisans pines and festive purple, yellow and here is perhaps Pina Parisi whose After a full day of walking, we found red flowers that bloom out of the stone daughter, Francesca has inherited her ourselves facing the sea again from a pockets. You have heard it before, but mother’s love of the loomed rugs she table at Le Mura on Via delle Sirene din- it is true — Erice is a place in which produces in geometric patterns of ing on pesce spada (swordfish) made time literally stands still. Walk and bright colors reflected in the Sicilian landscape. The carpets follow a native style of bits of colored material and The Details (continued) cotton thread woven in quite modern themes that could accompany a wide Rooms vary in size, but fine linens, marble collection of coral works inside an old range of interior designs. floors and cool breezes run throughout this Carmelite monastery. Other decorative objects friendly, well-appointed property. on display are made from shells, coral, and continued on page 8 other products of the sea. Dramatic painted For other accommodations, visit: www.siciliascopel- tiles depict the “mattanza,” the bloody Sicilian lo.com or www.scopellovillas.com dream of 3 tuna hunt still conducted offshore. ® Segesta: Museum of Prehistory (39) 0923 547922 ITALY Pocoroba Camere e Appartamenti, Housed in the imposing Tower of Ligny on the Kathleen A. McCabe Cucina Tipica Siciliana extreme end of the point of Trapani that juts Editor and Publisher Contrada Pocoroba out into the sea. (39) 368 7209735 Copy Editor: Stephen J. McCabe www.pocoroba.it Sale Marino Artigianale of the Consorzio Editorial Assistants: Cailin Birch Sale Natura Company Laura Cimperman Design: Leaird Designs Via F,6 www.leaird-designs.com Trapani: Nubia – (39) 0923 873844 Dream of Italy, the subscription newsletter covering Salt Museum, Nubia Italian travel and culture, is published 10 times a year. (39) 0923 867442 www.salemarinoartigianale.it Delivery by mail is $89 per year in the United States and $99 abroad. An Internet subscription (downloadable To arrive, you must drive along the SP21 coast Endorsed by the Slow Food Association, this PDF) costs $79 per year. Subscriptions include online road south from Trapani. Look for signs for the consortia of four producers harvests the sea access to over 40 back issues and regular e-mail updates. Via del Sale, which ultimately lead to this 300- salt in the traditional way. Three ways to subscribe: 1. Send a check to Dream of Italy, P.O. Box 5496, year-old house and salt mill, converted to an Le Mura Washington, DC, 20016 explanatory museum of traditional saltmaking. 2. Call 877-OF-ITALY (toll free) or 202-237-0657 Viale delle Sirene, 15/19 An adjoining nature reserve attracts more than 3. Subscribe online at www.dreamofitaly.com (Visa, (39) 0923 872622 Mastercard and American Express accepted) 100 bird species, including cranes and flamingos. E-mail: [email protected] Editorial feedback is welcome. Museo Nazionali Pepoli Closed Monday. E-mail: [email protected] Via Conte Agostino Pepoli, 200 Set along a promenade facing the sea. Do try Advertising opportunities are available. E-mail: [email protected] (39) 0923 553269 the couscous for which Trapani is famous, or Copyright © 2007 Dream of Italy, Inc. All Rights Open Tuesday to Saturday, 9 a.m. to 1:30 p.m.; busiatine, a thick pasta with finely sliced fennel Reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without per- Sunday and holidays, 9 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. and calamari. Expect to pay about 20€ each mission is prohibited. Every effort is made to provide with wine.Ask for the white wine from nearby information that is accurate and reliable; however, This folk art museum includes a stunning Dream of Italy cannot be responsible for errors that Alcamo. may occur. ISSN 1550-1353 www.dreamofitaly.com a mysterious people linked to the Trojans. DISNEY DOES ITALY At this point in your travels, guides, access to exclusive experi- the kids enough of an introduction to you’ve already fallen in love with ences, gourmet dining at a Tuscan villa get them excited about the country, but A Italy. Maybe you’re focusing and in a handful of highly touted not bore them to tears with too much your next visit on a little-known region restaurants. For example, Venice’s history and culture. you’ve always wanted to explore or Osteria Oliva Nera (www.osteria-olivan- planning an experiential vacation to era.com) is one you can’t miss. Sound Our group of 30 felt more like a small pursue your special interests. A Disney ideal? Combine that with the undeni- group tour than some I’d been on, vacation probably has never crossed able Disney magic and you’ll have the which I attribute entirely to it being a your mind or maybe you never knew kids hooked in no time. Even our well- family tour. Even though their ages they existed. So, why should you keep traveled kids were wowed at every ranged from four to 20, the kids all reading? Do it for the kids. turn. stuck together, leaving the parents behind in a very manageable sized If yours are anything like mine, they’re From the moment we arrived in Rome group. more concerned with their immediate we were swept away — we never had orbit than traveling the to lift a finger and our Each day we had at least two hours on world. But there is a way every need was antici- our own for families to bond with each to introduce your kids or pated and met, some- other and explore independently, grandkids to the pleas- times before we even something we free spirits were craving. ures of Italy you so enjoy knew it existed. When While most of the kids wanted to hang while speaking their lan- it started to sprinkle out at the pool and just, well, be kids, guage. ever so lightly while we we were able to drag ours through 4 were touring the Rome to find a little-known ruin of an I traveled with my hus- Colosseum, up ran our ancient temple in an excursion that will band and two of our guide with rain pon- forever be known as the “Adventure of three children on chos and umbrellas for the Giant Foot.” Adventures by Hotel Exedra, Rome all! With Disney’s Viva everything In addition to the requisite sightseeing, Italia this sum- taken care of, we were treated to several unforget- mer and really I didn’t quite table experiences that I couldn’t have didn’t know know what to planned on my own — pasta making what to expect. do with at a villa in Tuscany; wine tasting at a I’m not usually myself; this private estate; hand-crafting Carnevale one for organ- may have masks in Venice and even learning ized group been the first how to dance the minuet. tours, so turn- trip I’ve ever ing this adven- taken on Our guides made sure that we didn’t ture over to a which I could just see the sights, but experienced the travel planner At the Roman Forum truly relax! heart of Italian culture. While the kids was really a may not recall the year Venice was leap of faith. Could Disney meet my Viva Italia’s nine-day itinerary provid- founded, they’ll never forget playing high expectations? Yes, and then ed brief, but comprehensive, overviews Italian-rules dodgeball or drinking some… of Rome, Florence and Venice, with a from Roman fountains like a local. stop in Orvieto and overnights in the (And then, of course, there was the Imagine a meticulously planned, flaw- Tuscan countryside. I would have gelato!) lessly executed itinerary: 4- and 5- star loved to spend more time in Florence hotels (including Rome’s Hotel Exedra (we only had a few hours) and I was I’m sure you’re anxious to know where and the Hotel dei Dogi in Venice — both dying to explore a few more hill towns. the Disney element fits in to all this — have been reviewed in previous issues That aside, the itinerary was well that was my burning question before of Dream of Italy), über-attentive planned to hit all the basics and give the trip. Would it be too hokey? Would The two official languages of Anc “I’M DELIGHTED TO SAY THAT THE DISNEYFICATION OF THE TOUR WAS ACTUALLY VERY PALATABLE — AND NOT AN OVERSIZED CARTOON IN SIGHT.”

more exploration of Tuscany and less free time hanging out at the villa. Aside from that, there were only a few small details that I would have changed.

When we left for the trip, we we be greeted by Disney were expecting to characters upon arrival? stay at the Borgo San Would Mickey be our Luigi (www.bor- guide??? I’m delighted to gosanluigi.it) which At Rome’s Trevi Fountain say that the Disneyfication looked simply incredible, friendly (Disney cartoons on the of the tour was actually very but when we arrived in rides, a kids-only night with ice cream palatable — and not an Tuscany, we were informed and a movie, special treats from oversized cartoon in sight. of a hotel change. We Tinkerbell) I was disappointed that wound up at the Villa they didn’t have their own guides to We did have the obligatory Belvedere Campoli (www.vil- give them a kids’ eye view of Italy. Hotel Dei Dogi, Venice Adventures by Disney sign labelvedere- with us whenever we went, campoli.it) Do we want take an Adventures by which drew a lot of atten- which was Disney trip again? Absolutely. Can we tion, particularly since no far more rus- afford another? Probably not. Was it 5 one had ever heard of the tic than I worth every penny? You bet! tour program. But by the anticipated. end, we were proud of our While it was As we’ve discovered with our newly Villa Belvedere Campoli, Tuscany sign and it came in just as comfortable it blended family, taking trips with five is handy as any other guide’s umbrella in was far from luxurious — we ran out on the costly side and as fabulous as it keeping the group together. Other than of toilet paper on the first evening, had was, I’m afraid it was a once-in-a-life- that, all other Disney identification was only one bar of soap for the entire stay time experience until the kids can pay optional — hats, backpacks, luggage and though the furnishings were their own way. For our group of four tags, etc., most of which you’d get with antique (and maybe because of this), the bill came to a whopping $21,000, any group tour. they weren’t exceptionally comfortable. including airfare. This year’s starting Needless to say, it was a bit of a culture price for the Viva Italia itinerary is Then there were the pins — a must for shock coming from the sumptuous $3,699 per adult, $3,329 per child. For any hard core Disney fan as I came to Exedra, but the food and wine were more information, visit www.abd.dis- understand. We received a new pin outstanding! ney.go.com. each day to add to our lanyard collec- tion, customized specifically to our Our Disney “adventure guides” were —Joanne Poesch

Viva Italia adventure and guaranteed to phenomenal, but our local guides were Virginian Joanne Poesch is the former editor be in limited supply for maximum what I keep referring to as “typical” — of AOL Travel and currently writes The Specialty trading value. full of information, but lacking in per- Traveler Blog (specialtytraveler.blogspot.com). sonality and vibrancy. It was extremely At the end of the trip, not only was I difficult for them to keep the kids enchanted with Italy and caught up in engaged on the walking tours and so the magic of Disney, but my opinion of the younger set missed out on a lot of group tours has dramatically changed. fascinating information. This was the I didn’t find myself wanting to forge one area in which I felt Disney really ahead on my own as much as I feared I missed the boat. There were so many would, although I would have enjoyed aspects of the tour that were kid 1 € = $1.42 at press time ient Rome were Latin and Greek. News, Tips, Deals Take a Walk on the Gourmet Side of Venice

enice has a rich and flavorful past, satisfy different appetites; in Venice the two Cossiga’s other tours provide equally fasci- V one that can be explored through converge since prostitutes used to live in the nating glimpses of city life past and present, history, art and architecture and for Venice vicinity of the Rialto market where all sorts one examines the role of water in Venetian guide, Sara Cossiga, through food.The art of meats were traded and cooked every day. art and everyday life; another visits the historian and wine expert has Meat, a rare and expensive dish in a city Dorsoduro district and the fishermen who developed a series of special- built on water, was the elite choice of the built the area (complete with fish tasting). ized walking tours that focus aristocrats and wealthy merchants who also Each tour costs 210€ (plus museum fees) on how the forces of history frequented the many brothels near the Rialto for a group of up to 15 people. Custom itin- have shaped Venice’s culinary Bridge.” eraries, cooking classes in a Venetian palazzo traditions and vice versa. and day trips to gourmet destinations in the The Like Oil and Water:Venice and the Turks These are perfect for the traveler who wants Veneto are also available. For more informa- tour explores how the trading relationship to delve deeper into the fabric of Venice and tion, visit www.venicevenetogourmet.com between the Republic of Venice and the Turks who is looking for a unique way to spend a built the city until the devastating impact of few hours. the fall of Constantinople in 1453. Cossiga Cossiga’s most popular three-hour tour, takes participants to Venice’s Castello district given through her company Venice Veneto and explains how the visual arts were used 6 Gourmet, is Flesh and Meat in the Rialto to express the fears and hopes of the Market. Cossiga explains,“Meat and flesh Venetians who didn’t want to lose the are composed of the same matter but they primacy of Catholicism over “the Infidels.”

Get Up Close and Personal with the Italian Harvest

bout this time of year, with the and Volunteers coordinate directly with the host A grape harvests in full swing, travelers farms about length of stay and other details. looking for a hands on experience often The work can be grueling and aches and wonder how they can take part in the pains are not unheard of at the end of the harvest. Finding a farm where one can day. volunteer can be daunting because there are The organization warns that “WWOOFing strict laws in Italy preventing voluntary labor is not a cheap holiday and way to travel. and the penalties for any farm using such It is a voluntary organization set up to teach labor can be stiff. people about the organic movement and give One way to gain legal volunteer status is to them hands on experience and to help out join WWOOF Italia.WorldWide Opportunities on organic producers as organic production is Organic Farms was started 35 years ago in the very labor intensive.” United Kingdom by a London woman looking valid only while you are volunteering at a Still, for those willing to put in the time and to help out an organic farm for a weekend. registered farm. labor, it is a wonderful opportunity to An annual membership in WWOOF Italia, participate in daily life on an Italian farm. costing 25€, includes a complete list of In exchange for accommodations (anything Italian organic farms seeking help as well as from a tent to a furnished room) and food, For more information, visit www.WWOOF.it volunteers agree to work up to six hours a periodic e-mail updates. Membership also 1 € = $1.42 at press time includes basic health and accident insurance, day for five and a half days per week. Amici e vini sono meglio vecchi. (Friends and Events G

ITALY IN AMERICA: Heading to Rome with Kids? Read Up Watch the Pallino Mother of three and former Rome resident Pasquesi suggests taking the tikes to J.M. Pasquesi understands all too well the Rome’s highest hill — Janiculum — and nyone who has an Italian-American joys and frustrations of traveling with chil- timing it to arrive at the majestic A grandfather or who has lived in an dren.That’s why she wrote Rome with Kids Garibaldi equestrian statue a little before Italian-American neighborhood can attest (Synergy Books, $16.95).While the guide is noon.“Italian soldiers wheel out a to the central role of the outdoor game of probably most useful for families traveling Howitzer cannon from beneath the statue bocce in the social orbits of both. Bocce has with tweens, Pasquesi gives tips for dealing and fire a blank shot over Rome to mark long been central to the with kids of all ages; for example, which venues the noon hour, or mezzogiorno.The heart-stop- civic life in the small have bag checks where you can store strollers, or ping boom is thrilling,” she says. town of Toluca,Illinois. for those that don’t she gives the helpful advice At the beginning of the For a meal your children will long remember, the of bringing a bike lock from home. last century, Italian immi- author recommends dining on the terrace at grants came to work in The key to a successful Roman sojourn with Ulpia, which overlooks Trajan’s Forum (Via del the town’s coal mines; kids? According to the author,“space and pace.” Foro Traiano, 1B/2; 39-06-6789980).“The they brought the ball She advises families to stay as close to the cen- restaurant is more formal than casual, but game with them from ter of Rome as possible, preferably in an apart- lunchtime on the terrace is perfect for families Italy and played on courts created outside the ment rental, where there will be more room and whose kids will delight in counting cats among town’s many taverns. Only Italian immigrant the chance to prepare some of your own meals. the column-strewn ruins below while adults males were playing then; but times have enjoy the pleasant oasis and delicious fare,” Avoid lines at museums by pre-booking and give 7 changed, everyone — including women — the kids plenty of breaks at parks and other the author notes. seems to play bocce in Toluca (the schools outdoor sites. even teach it in gym class). Film producer Stephanie Foerster, whose grand- A Resource for Shopping ’til You Drop in Florence parents lived in Toluca,set out to make a docu- mentary about the experiences of the town’s It seems that one can never have scarves, and silk bags filled oldest residents, questioning them about war enough tips for shopping in with signature potpourri will memories and how the town changed over the Florence — home to exquisite not break the bank.” Via L. years.“I would do that for about two minutes leather goods, fabrics, works of Bartolini, 4; (39) 055 213861; and then they would go straight to bocce,” she art and jewelry — that’s why The www.setificiofiorentino.it says. So she made a documentary about Toluca’s Civilized Shopper’s Guide to Florence Zecchi — “There’s a good obsession over bocce. (Little Bookroom, $12.95) is the chance that any restoration perfect pocket-sized companion. Watch the Pallino (the pallino is the small ball work in Florence — or (The book is actually the second in a series, used in the game) chronicles Toluca’s annual throughout the world for that matter — following the equally handy Rome Labor Day bocce tournament, the largest has been done using materials from this volume.) Author Louise Filla describes more off-court competition of its kind. Some 300 renowned art supply store.” Via dello than 70 shops as if she’s creating a sort of teams of men, women and children compete Studio, 19R; (39) 055 211470; “treasure map” for a friend who wants to to “get under the lights” and play in the finals www.zecchi.com discover Florence’s little-known gems. at the end of the day.While Toluca’s modern Francesco da Firenze — “The source for day bocce players turn out to be the least Among her recommendations for where to classic, comfortable, handmade leather compelling aspect of the 45-minute documen- buy decidedly Florentine wares: tary, they serve as an important vehicle for shoes, sandals, boots, sambi (mules), and telling the story of the town and a group of Antico Setificio Fiorentino — “While loafers for both men and women. Choose immigrants through the game they have Antico Setificio’s list of clients can be intimi- from his in-store stock, or you can place a passed on for generations.The DVD of Watch dating (the Kremlin, the Royal Palaces of custom order (one month to send to you).” the Pallino can be purchased for $19.95 plus Stockholm, and the Quirinale in Rome), the Via Santo Spirito, 62R; (055) 212428. $1.00 for shipping at www.boccedoc.com curtains, bedspreads, silk and cashmere and wine are best when they’ve aged.) Western Sicily continued from page 3

Step inside La Bottega dei Sapori, which this town but it is worth taking a look. An Abandoned City sells Trapanese salts, and the pastes Scopello is well positioned for short Sicily is known for — ranging from forays along the coast; hikes in Zingaro When we stopped at the abandoned finocchetti (anise) to cinnamon to pista- and is just a 40-minute drive to the city of Segesta, one that is often over- chio — and of course, a wide range of airport in Palermo and going against looked by traditional itineraries and liquors of similar flavors and finally, traffic makes it a very easy drive. remains something of a secret to capers from the nearby Egadine island Americans, we found a wonderful of Pantelleria, a perfect (and light) gift One of the notable places to stay is agriturismo restaurant. Pocoroba, which for foodie friends. Pensione Tranchina. Its proprietors are a means “little stuff” modestly, “whatev- cosmopolitan cultural mix of Chinese, er we have” — with new, apartment- Stop in nearby Michele’s for a taste of Panamanian and Sicilian. Mr. like accommodations suited to incredibly intense chocolate mixed Tranchina, a Scopello native, inherited Europeans and families who prefer the with pistachios and filberts in his father’s little stay-put concept. On Sunday and small bars costing about six fishing shack. Today, many other days, the restaurant serves euros each, another light gift to 30 years later, typical Sicilian specialties. take home. Other shops offer Pensione Tranchina very typical items and products boasts 10 rooms, But the abandoned city itself was the you might be better off purchas- marble area’s real ing down below for less money floors, stun- treat. When especially when it comes to ning views purchasing ceramics, for instance. Beyond Castello di Venere, Erice and its own your the shops, aromas and tastes, is the chef. Tranchina’s wife Marisin entrance romance of stepping into a medieval was born in Panama of Chinese ticket, pay 8 town. parents. After marrying, the the extra few euros

Continue strolling to the Castello Board Tourism Italian Government for the bus Amphitheater at Segesta di Venere, which houses the Altar trip to the to Venus Erycina dating from the couple amphitheater on Mount Barbara at 13th century B.C. From here lived in about 1,200 feet up. From this height there is an amazing view over Chicago you can view the planes, the farms, the almost the entire province. This but he sea and the fabulous Doric temple small town, which once extend- yearned below, which stands quizzically alone ed as far as , is the for his on a hill below.

home of the Ettore Majorana www.siciliascopello.com home- Scopello Centre of Scientific Culture, a place town; The temple was never actually com- for meetings and encounters between they have been here ever since. Rooms pleted and archeologists still argue as scientists from all over the world, illus- cost 80€ a night, which might seem to whether this was deliberate or it was trating that although it is remote, it has steep in this corner of Sicily, but The just never finished back in 420 B.C. not lost touch with the modern world Tranchinas know how to deliver serv- Once you walk or travel down to the after all. (If you would like to stay at ice in an elegant and spacious setting. temple, sit beneath its frame, alongside the hotel itself, there are seven guest English is spoken fluently and the cou- its columns and listen to the gazza or rooms that cost several hundred euros ple have a passion for and intimate magpies, the same wind once heard by per night.) knowledge of the region. the ancients, and wonder why anyone would have left this enchanting place. Scopello is among those rare little fish- If you are ready for a snack or pranzo, ing villages, kissed by the influx of step into La Crapraria for a pae cunzatu, —Maria Lisella and Gil Fagiani

cash from tourism, but it still maintains a sandwich that is more like an Maria Lisella is a reporter and editor for traces of its rich heritage. Still, the antipasto for two or three — filled with Jax Fax Travel Marketing Magazine. town square is very small and at least , eggplant, tomatoes, , Gil Fagiani is a translator, essayist, short story three or four B&Bs face the square. To anchovies and Sicilian delicacies in a writer and poet. Lisella and Fagiani co-host be honest, there is very little to do in special bread, for about 12€. the Italian-American Writers Association literary association readings in New York City. The Couscous Festival is held every year in . A Holiday Gift Subscription to the award-winning travel newsletter dream of RENEW NOW AND RECEIVE FREE DVDS, ITALY TOO! includes a FREE BONUS Deluxe DVD edition of

Cinema paradiso!

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