Voice of the Glacier Park Foundation ☐ Winter 2008 ☐ Volume XXII, No. 1

CLIMBING with Mr. K and other adventures with Rangvald Kvelstad

Rangvald Kvelstad admires the view looking west from the summit of Mt. Reynolds. (Photo by Bob Also inside: Megard) • Place Names of Glacier Park • An Anthology of Bear Stories • Slip-Sliding on Mt. Grinnell • Reviving the Music at Many Glacier • Mama Frase of Lake McDonald • A Swiftcurrent Homecoming • A Gearjammers’ Centennial Reunion • Closing the Hotel in September

The Inside Trail � Winter 2005 � 1 GPF Promotes Musical Revival at Many Glacier Many Glacier Hotel’s grand tradition Ognjanov, the president of Glacier GPF also plans to send a professional of employee music enjoyed a revival Park, Incorporated (GPI), the hotel musician to Many Glacier early in last summer. Each Sunday evening, concessionaire, have given strong the 2008 season. This person (a June to September, employees staged support to the music program. Many Glacier alumnus) will men- a show in the lobby. These perfor- tor employee performers and help to GPF’s Board of Directors decided mances were called Hootenannies, organize the music program. GPI recently to give additional support to after the famous folk-singing shows kindly has agreed to cosponsor the the program in 2008. The most pro- at Many in the ‘60s, ‘70s and ‘80s. mentor musician’s visit. gram’s most obvious need is a dedi- The Glacier Park Foundation (GPF) cated sound system. (The fine system Money for these initiatives will come supported these programs with funds used at Many Glacier in the ‘70s and from GPF’s Terrie Stewart Bequest supplied by generous donors. “Ian ‘80s has gone missing in later years.) Fund. Ms. Stewart, a talented Tippet Awards,” with cash stipends, Last summer, the Hootenannies de- professional musician who worked were presented to employees who pended on a traveling sound system at Many Glacier, died of cancer in distinguished themselves in perfor- which often was needed for banquets 2002. She generously left a large mance. These employees included and special events at other lodges bequest to GPF, and the Board has the Hootenanny host, Levi Webb, – leaving performers unamplified in thought it appropriate to use these Mark Stokstad (see his story on p. the cavernous Many Glacier lobby. funds to promote music in the Park. 17), and Henry Lethbridge. GPF’s Board authorized spending up Planners of Glacier Park’s Centennial Mena Reilly, the manager of Many to $3,000 to purchase a new sound in 2010 have discussed a potential Glacier Hotel, presented the Tippet system with performance micro- Centennial Hootenanny program as Awards at the season’s final perfor- phones and have it shipped to Many part of the celebration. The current mance and spoke about Many’s mu- Glacier. The system will be loaned revival of music in Glacier – adding sical tradition. Ms. Reilly and Cindy to GPI summer by summer to sup- yet another decade to a grand old port the music. tradition – makes such discussions especially timely and such an event Officers: Glacier Park Foundation especially fitting. P.O. Box 15641 John Hagen, President Minneapolis, MN 55415 Einar Hanson, First Vice President www.glacierparkfoundation.org Carol Dahle, Vice President - Membership [email protected] Mac Willemssen, Secretary Tessie Bundick, Historian The Inside Trail takes its name Board of Directors: Jim Lees, Treasurer from the famous old trail Tessie Bundick Rolf Larson, Inside Trail Editor Laura Chihara which connected Glacier Janet Eisner Cornish Park Lodge with the vanished Carol Repulski Dahle The Glacier Park Foundation was chalets at Two Medicine, Joyce Daugaard formed by Glacier Park employees Cut Bank, and St. Mary. The Ray Djuff and visitors who have a deep love for this special place. The Foundation is name thus emphasizes the Glenn Elvig commited both to the importance publication’s focus on the Lee Flath of wilderness preservation and to David Gilbertson the importance of places like Glacier lore and history of Glacier John Hagen as classrooms where people can National Park. We invite Einar Hanson experience wilderness in intense meaningful ways, learning not only a submission of historical, Paul Hoff love for the land, but also a respect scientific, or anecdotal ar- Mark Hufstetler that nurtures the skills necessary to ticles, commentary, poetry, Jeff Kuhn preserve that land. The Foundation Linda Young Kuhn has a special interest in Glacier Park’s or artwork for publication in Rolf Larson history, traditions and visitor facilities. future issues. Don Loeffler Leroy Lott Greg Notess

2 ☐ Winter 2008 ☐ The Inside Trail Inside News of Glacier Park Margaret Black Dies at Age 105 actively working at the lodge until Foundation all are represented on the age of 97. She hiked in the Park the committee. Margaret Black, who cofounded St. well into her 90s. Mary Lodge almost 80 years ago, This winter, the committee will be died in Kalispell, Montana on Janu- Glacier Park Foundation member developing an application proce- ary 12 at the age of 105. She was a Steve Berg wrote a charming memoir dure for individuals and groups who distinguished and beloved figure in of Margaret, Hugh, and life at St. would like to sponsor an official the history of Glacier National Park. Mary in the Fall 2004 Inside Trail centennial event or activity. Applica- (see An Afternoon in the Brown- tions likely will be accepted in the Margaret first came to Glacier in ing Jail and Other Tales of St. Mary spring. A logo has been designed 1928 as an executive secretary for the Lodge at www.glacierparkfounda- and adopted. Great Northern Railway. She met tion.org). a young ranger named Hugh Black The Glacier Park Foundation’s Board while on a horseback ride in the He recalls that after Margaret turned of Directors is considering possible Park. They married in 1932. They 101, her birthday was celebrated bi- projects which the organization bought 300 acres and a gas station at annually (the icing on her cake once might sponsor for the centennial. St. Mary, and constructed a café and read “101.5 on your dial”). One suggestion is to publish an an- a number of cabins. thology of memories of former con- Just after Margaret’s death, the Black cession employees (many of which The business flourished, despite hard family sold St. Mary Lodge to Alaska already have appeared in The Inside times in the Depression and dur- businessman John Blomfield. These Trail). Another is to sponsor com- ing World War Two. In 1952, the events close a colorful chapter in the memorative events at Park lodges, Blacks built the main structure of St. history of the Park. Mary Lodge. In subsequent decades, they expanded the resort to include a large grocery store, shops and res- Just after Margaret’s death, the Black family taurants, more cabins, and a second sold St. Mary Lodge to Alaska businessman large lodging facility, the Great Bear Lodge. John Blomfield. These events close a colorful Margaret handled the accounting for chapter in the history of the Park. the business. She also did most of the hiring during the winters, which Planning Begins for Glacier’s Cen- including a Centennial Hootenanny the family spent in St. Paul. Thou- tennial at Many Glacier Hotel. Ideas from sands of college students, primarily the membership are welcome. from Minnesota, spent summers 2010 will be the centennial of Gla- working at St. Mary. A Christmas cier National Park, and planning is GPF Director Leroy Lott has pro- Reunion of former employees was well underway for the observance. posed a Centennial Gearjammer held each year at the Blacks’ large A Centennial Committee has or- Reunion, based upon the memorable home on Summit Avenue in St. ganized, including representatives gearjammer gathering of 2002. En- Paul. of the Park Service, concessioners, ergetic leadership would be required local businesses, tourism agencies, to organize such a reunion, even Hugh died in 1983, and manage- the Blackfeet and Kootenai/Salish with two years’ lead time. Former ment passed to the Blacks’ son Ros- tribes, local colleges, and nonprofit drivers interested in helping to plan coe. Their other children (Hugh, Jr., organizations. The Glacier National such an effort are invited to contact James (“Lucky”), Sally, Patricia, and Park Fund, Glacier Natural His- Leroy at “www.gearjammers@tx. Terry) also worked at the resort at tory Association, Glacier Institute, rr.com”. various times. Margaret continued Glacier Associates, and Glacier Park

The Inside Trail ☐ Winter 2008 ☐ 3 More Inside News of Glacier Park By Tessie Bundick (MGH 1972-80) Northwest bringing torrential rains please be grateful for all of the mas- and flooding to Glacier Park. Much sive care that was taken to restore it. Mining Interest Threats to Glacier damage was done to the trails, roads, Mining threats to Glacier Park’s pris- Mick Holm Retires bridges and buildings. tine wilderness have many worried in Mick Holm, the Superintendent of Northwestern Montana and beyond. Going to the Sun Highway took Glacier National Park, will retire on The Cabin Creek area, in Canada, a a major hit. Large portions of the January 3, 2008. few miles north of Glacier, has been roads were washed out. A tempo- Holm, who has been honored numer- the site of exploration for phosphate rary, 125 foot, 2 lane bridge had to ous times in his career with service drilling. The Creek, itself, is a tribu- be installed on a portion of the east and special act awards, has truly tary to the north fork of the Flathead side road to allow spring plowing enjoyed his time in Glacier. One of River, which makes up the western and traffic. The remaining east side his best memories was being inducted boundary of the Park. Phosphate stabilization was started in May. into the Blackfeet Tribe of Montana, mines and subsequent spills have Beginning in the summer, but really given the name “High Eagle”. been known to destroy fisheries. picking up steam in the fall, a 3.5 Glacier Improvement Proposals Also, the massive corporation, British section of the road between the west Four of Glacier National Park’s Petroleum, has proposed to extract tunnel and Haystack Creek is be- centennial proposals are among 201 coal bed methane from Canadian ing completely rehabilitated. H_K proposals announced by the Nation- Crowsnest Coal Field which drains Contractors of Post Falls, Idaho is al Park Service in August of 2007. into the North Fork of the Flathead doing the dangerous job using a (The Park Service will celebrate 100 River. Road construction during crane perched on the highway with a years of existence in 2016). These this venture could be very destructive basket containing a large drill. The are part of a full centennial initiative and air quality and spawning habitat drill is used to bore holes into the which includes a potential 2 to 3 could take an enormous hit. Trout cliff face. These indentations are billion dollars, a private and public spawn in British Columbia and swim grouted, then bolted. All of this investment in our national parks. to Montana and would certainly be work is being done to stabilize the negatively affected. British Columbia face so that boulders will not fall One of the certified projects is Cel- has allowed other companies to dis- on and crush motorists. Often, the ebrate Glacier’s Centennial. (Glacier charge toxic water into rivers that are face will pull off and then large por- Park will be 100 years old in 2010). vital to native trout. This, of course, tions must be scaled away. To hold This effort will increase the public’s would be extremely damaging to the the rocks securely, a gray substance awareness of the Park’s history, with a fishing industries and tourist activities called Shotcrete is being utilized. museum exhibit at the Montana His- of the United States and Canada. For aesthetic purposes, later crews torical Society and the development will actually use dye to blend the of an online interpretive exhibit. As if that were not bad enough, Cline colors more evenly. Mining Company has proposed an Some other areas that will be given open pit mine in the Flathead head- The beautiful, historic rock walls support are plant restoration vol- waters. These ventures, while very of Going to the Sun Highway are unteers, environmental education lucrative for the companies involved, also being dismantled and rebuilt, outreach at Lake McDonald Lodge, could be disastrous to the Canadian stone by stone. The walls are photo- creation of a new recreation facil- lands and waterways and catastrophic graphed, each rock is numbered that ity at Lake McD, and a mission to for Glacier National Park. can be saved, and then it is all put encourage cooperation in managing back together using modern mortar shared recourses of the Crown of the Sun Highway Renovation techniques. Unsalvageable stones are Continent Ecosystem (Canada and In November of 2006, a major replaced by replicas that have been the United States). The public will tropical storm system stirred up the shaped by hand to fit. The next time be very much urged to participate in Pacific and slammed into the Inland that you drive this spectacular road, all of these activities.

4 ☐ Winter 2008 ☐ The Inside Trail CLIMBING with Mr. K and other adventures with Rangvald Kvelstad

K and Jim Thrush relax near Boulder Pass, where the Mts. Kintla and Kinnerly dominate the northern XXXX the park at West Glacier. (photo by XXX Nelson) skyline. (photo by Bob Megard)

By Bob Megard (Many Glacier 1953-57) grill. Nevermore would they cut ice in had easy access to the ingredients of Swiftcurrent Lake and cover it with saw- breakfast. Sometimes “K”, as we called It was an historic year at Many Glacier. dust in the icehouse until it was needed him, needed an extra pair of hands to Dwight Eisenhower was the new presi- in the hotel. I helped move the new move things around, and I was there in dent and it was time for renovations at machine into the bar. We connected it the gray dawn to help. the hotel. The lobby had new furniture. to the water supply and plugged it in. The old wooden floors were covered I was amazed when it started to belch K was a Norwegian bachelor school with new green tile. Installation of floor out hollow ice cubes. The bar manager, teacher from Poulsbo, Washington, tile apparently was a new experience who was older and more experienced having moved there from somewhere for contractors in northwest Montana. than I, explained that hollow ice cubes in North Dakota. He taught Pacific- They used too much adhesive. It oozed cooled drinks faster than solid ones. Northwest history, and probably other up from between the cracks. Gangs of things, but his first interest was regional new employees, fresh off the bus, crept across the floor on hands and knees, armed with rags and cans of Tarzoff He came to Many Glacier to be storekeeper solvent, working day after day to undo because, with an early morning job, he would the excess adhesive before the first guests of the season arrived. I know about this, have afternoons and evenings free to explore the because I was one of them, having been Blackfeet Reservation and visit sites that were recruited at the Great Northern Building subjects of paintings by Charlie Russell. in St. Paul to be the lobby porter. Every morning, I arose before the sun and almost everyone else to navigate a rotary Another new employee who began work history. He came to Many Glacier to floor polisher across the lobby, into the very early every day was Rangvald Kv- be storekeeper because, with an early sunroom and down the long corridor to elstad, the storekeeper. His job was to morning job, he would have afternoons the dining room, always vigilant to de- keep the storeroom fully supplied with and evenings free to explore the Black- tect new adhesive eruptions before they groceries and produce for Mrs. Rhody’s feet Reservation and visit sites that were sullied the pad on my polisher. kitchen. His first job of the day was to subjects of paintings by Charlie Russell, It was also the year they installed an wrestle bags and boxes into the kitchen the “cowboy artist” who once had a stu- automatic ice-maker in the downstairs and place them strategically so the cooks dio, now a museum, in Great Falls. He

The Inside Trail ☐ Winter 2008 ☐ 5 cliffs to the summit. We set out after lunch one day for a reconnaissance, provisioned with left-over bag lunches from Mrs. Rhody’s kitchen. Instead of bypassing the cliffs, we scrambled to- ward them, up the talus slope in search Rangvald Kvelstad of a climbing route. The cliffs were (Mr. K) leads the way infested with mountain sheep. After a through meadows east few promising routes ended at frighten- of Chief Mountain en ing exposures, we found a well-used route to the summit. game trail. It led us up steep gullies On our first climb, in until we realized we were near the north 1953, we found an summit. The sun was low in the west, easy route up a ridge but we decided to go for the main sum- on the other side of the mit. Then we scrambled back down the mountain. (photo by sheep trail, but it was after sunset when Bob Megard) we got safely to the base of the cliffs. Summer days in northern Montana also was a photographer and mountain the western skyline. East of Chief have long, delicious twilights, but this climber, a member of the Seattle Moun- Mountain was the prairie and the one wasn’t long enough. We still had to taineers. He had lots of reasons to come Blackfeet Reservation; I imagined that I make our way to the highway where K’s to Glacier Park for the summer. could almost see St. Paul on the distant car was parked. There was no marked horizon. Word spread in the employees’ trail. We normally followed game He knew the story about the young cafeteria that the western approach to trails eastward through the groves and Blackfeet who climbed Chief Mountain Chief Mountain was a “piece of cake” meadows to get from the mountain to for a mystical experience, so an ascent and Mr. K led many other novice climb- the highway. We followed a trail until of Chief was a high priority. K had a ers to its summit. He also was intrigued it ended in a dense thicket. It was dark car, which was forbidden for most other by Mt. Wilbur and Mt. Gould, both now, and K decided we should stop employees, and he recruited three of us conspicuous from the hotel. His previ- where we were and wait until morning to help find a route to the summit. The ous mountaineering had involved snow light to find our way to the highway. mountain rises abruptly above the plains and looks impossible from the highway that runs east of it, so his strategy was After a few promising routes ended at frightening to explore a western approach. We made the long hike through meadows exposures, we found a well-used game trail. It and clumps of aspen, passed below the led us up steep gullies until we realized we were steep southern cliffs, and traversed a near the north summit. big snowfield to reach the crest of the western ridge. From there we could see that the summit was easily accessible, and ice in the Pacific Northwest, but he We sat shivering in the dark, enduring just a matter of picking our way among quickly adapted to rock climbing and a miserable night in a thicket infested modest cliffs to the top. We found a we climbed both Gould (once) and Wil- with mosquitoes. We heard ominous large cairn marking the summit, and all bur (twice) during that first summer. crashing noises in the bushes. The of us signed a summit register that had noises were especially worrisome for Gould and Wilbur were challenging been left by previous climbers. I took one of our companions, who had heard climbs, so K decided they were adequate a photograph with Jaydee Miller and that there were grizzlies in the area. K preparation for an ascent of the east Bill Roach perched on the cairn while told him not to worry. He said that face of Chief Mountain. As I recall, K studied the register and took notes we weren’t really lost; we just didn’t there was no indication in the summit about previous ascents. know where we were because it got dark register that the mountain had ever too soon. The noises were probably been climbed from that side, so it was That was my “first ascent”. I didn’t made by horses or elk, because grizzlies an opportunity for a “first ascent”. We have a mystical experience, but I was move through underbrush silently. He decided to explore possible routes that captivated by the summit vistas. Mt. thought this was so funny that he broke might lead through those awful eastern Merritt and Mt. Cleveland dominated into uncontrolled laughter. 6 ☐ Winter 2008 ☐ The Inside Trail It wasn’t just his bad Norwegian joke. cooks reported that the pancake ingre- They had not yet called the park rang- He was also laughing from embarrass- dients weren’t where they were supposed ers when we arrived, so we avoided ment. Rangvald Kvelstad was a Seattle to be and Mr. K wasn’t around? a scolding by the Chief Ranger at Mountaineer. He taught wilderness sur- Swiftcurrent, who took a dim view of Eventually it got light enough to leave vival on weekends. He was embarrassed mountain climbers. Our supervisors the miserable thicket and head toward because he had led novice climbers on were more concerned about our safety the rising sun. We soon came to the an excursion without any wilderness than our dereliction of duty, so we were highway and realized we still had a equipment whatsoever. No foul-weath- not about to be fired. It wasn’t easy for problem. Was the car north or south er clothing, no matches, no flashlight, management to find student employees of us? Fortunately K had two keys not even a pocket knife among us. All who reliably came to work every day at for his car. He took one and headed that we had left in the car, for this was 5:00 am. It was still early, so K went to north, and we headed south with the to be only an exploration. K’s guilt was work on breakfast, and I got the lobby other. We walked for a very long time elevated, but we were in no danger oth- shaped up by noon. until K and his car came up behind us. erwise, unless you believe the part about He explained that the car was parked K was storekeeper at Many Glacier nocturnal grizzlies prowling noiselessly near a shepherd’s trailer, and the herder Hotel for five summers. Every year he through the underbrush. The real haz- wouldn’t let him leave without break- introduced dozens of student employees ard was back at the hotel. What would fast. We got back to the hotel to find to the wonders of hiking and climb- Mr. Sielset, the manager, think as he Sielset and Rhody beside the kitchen ing . He developed a special affinity for strode through the lobby on his way to door, talking about what to do. They Mt. Reynolds It’s an imposing spire, breakfast and discovered dirty ashtrays, were enormously relieved. That was the but easy to climb if you are patient and scruffy floors and no lobby porter? first time Mrs. Rhody hugged me. skillful at route-finding. He especially What would Mrs. Rhody do when the enjoyed photographing all those glaciers visible from its summit. At least once every summer, he organized a long weekend excur- sion to Hole-in-the Wall Basin and Boulder Pass in northwestern Glacier. In evenings between such outings, he would set up his slide projector in the downstairs grill or convention hall. We crowded in to see his spectacular photographic slides and listen to him talk about the Blackfeet, Charlie Russell, Lewis and Clark or other aspects of Montana history. After the 1957 season, there was a change of management, and many “old guard” employees, including K, were not invited to return for another summer, so he worked for several summers at Yellowstone Lake Lodge. Later he developed K studies the summit register an interest in Mexico, especially atop Chief in colorful Christmas festivities Mountain as in some of the colonial cities. He Jaydee Miller (left) taught generations of students in and Bill Roach Poulsbo, where everyone knew (right) relax on him and he was widely admired. the summit cairn. They built a gazebo in the park, (photo by Bob and dedicated it to Rangvald Megard) Kvelstad.

The Inside Trail ☐ Winter 2008 ☐ 7 An Anthology of BEAR STORIES

A light afternoon snack. (Photo by Fred H. Kiser; from the collection of Ray Djuff)

By Don Loeffler (Glacier Park Lodge, grabbed the cast iron frying pan and Not wishing to argue right-of-way, Many Glacier, Sun Camp, 1940-42, quietly crawled out on the catwalk. we quickly scrambled up about 200 46-48) When Bruno stood up and began feet or so. We had heard that bears clawing at the door to the provi- have difficulty going straight down I have not been scratched, clawed, sions, I whacked him on the noggin a hill enabling one possibly to get chewed, or mauled by a bear of any with a mighty blow that they prob- away, but we were inclined not to kind. But I have observed their ably could have heard clear down at test that theory. Momma and child many unusual behaviors over the the ranger headquarters. He let out acknowledged our forfeiture of pas- years. Here are some of my most memorable bear stories. Battle on a Mountaintop Not wishing to argue right-of-way, we quickly One summer I was substituting for a fire lookout on the top of Apgar scrambled up about 200 feet or so. Mountain. He had to return to his home town of Seattle in order to reg- a loud bellow and took off on a run sage and continued nonchalantly on ister for the draft prior to World War down into the woods. I never saw their way across the slope. II. Before leaving, he showed me the that bear again. routine – including how to deal with A Grizzly at Play a pesky bear that came around once Avoiding Battle on a Mountaintop Several years later, my wife Barbara in awhile. While climbing Mt. Cleveland once, and I were on the home stretch of traversing a narrow ledge near the a hike from Logan Pass to Granite This particular bear was attracted summit, we encountered a sow with Park Chalet to Redrock Falls. We to the foodstuffs that were hanging her cub heading our way on the very looked across the valley and there on suspended from the lower level of same ledge. We were quite sur- the north slope of Grinnell Moun- the lookout tower. Sure enough, the prised to see a bear at that elevation tain was an adult bear enjoying first night I was by myself and Mr. (10,000 feet) – and on bare rock that himself sliding down this huge snow Bear came a-calling. As instructed, I far above the timberline! bank in a sitting position. As soon

8 ☐ Winter 2008 ☐ The Inside Trail as he bottomed out, he would hustle is fair play! The next day I saw one The next day we tarried too long in himself back up to the top of the of the rangers who was involved in the hills. By the time we got to the bank for another glissade. This snow that foray and asked him if they had west end of Upper Kintla Lake it was bank was about 350 feet in length. considered tranquilizing his treed already 4:45 PM. We started to trot, After half a dozen round trips all by buddy in order to drop him to the then lope, then full-on sprint down himself, he wandered off into the ground. He just pulled his ranger that trail – ignoring the ominous brush and disappeared. hat down about an inch and walked piles of bear scat. By the time we away – probably thinking to him- could see our ranger’s motorboat, the We got back on the trail and made self “How can I get that dude into piles of scat appeared very recent and our way down to the Swiftcurrent my cage and drop him off about 20 steamy. We were really exhausted Campstore. While we were enjoy- miles north of Polebridge….?!” and wanted that boat ride, so we ing a couple of well-earned ice cream opted to ignore the telltale signs of a local bruin. on the north slope of Grinnell Mountain was an We never saw the bear but I am sure adult bear enjoying himself sliding down this he was watching us! I have always made it a point to make plenty huge snow bank in a sitting position. As soon as of noise when in bear country by he bottomed out, he would hustle himself back attaching bearbells to my ice axe up to the top of the bank for another glissade. and doing plenty of loud singing, including a complete repertoire of songs ranging from country-western bars, some hikers came up to us and Running the Gauntlet to gospel hymns. Bears don’t care inquired as to whether we had seen On an outing to check out a pro- about the selection of music as long the big grizzly on the trail near Re- posed climb of Kintla, Kinnerly, as they can hear you! drock Falls. He was ahead of them and vicinity, we arrived at the ranger Think Twice Before Kicking and obviously behind us. Maybe he station at the foot of lower Kintla The Glacier Park Hotel Company was looking for us in order to extract Lake just in time to see the resident hired a Marine Corps veteran in a tip for his unique performance! ranger and his wife reinstalling the 1946 for the position of night iron bars over their windows. The Turnabout watchman and fire guard. His bars had been demolished by bears After a day of scrambling around sole job was to circle the hotel and the previous spring. We told them dorm looking for fire. I think this Goat Basin, we returned to our cabin of our plans. They suggested that we at Rising Sun to find park rangers was a condition imposed by the hang around for an hour or so, and hotel’s insurance company. Once trying to coax a treed bear down to that he would give us a motorboat the ground. We watched the rangers in awhile he would (probably under ride to the head of the lake – thus the slight influence of John Barley- spread netting below the tree, shoot saving us about seven miles of hiking the bear with a tranquilizer dart, and corn) borrow one of the many bear through uncleared trail. We accept- skins which graced the hotel lobby place him in their wheel mounted ed his gracious offer. cage. When we inquired as to his railings, get down on all fours, and disposition, they told us that they After hiking a short isthmus between proceed on his rounds. He was were going to give him a ride up to Upper and Lower Kintla Lakes, never really aggressive in his posture the Bowman Lake area and turn him we took off for Boulder Pass. The when wearing the bear skins. About loose. ranger told us that if we made it half of the tourists he came across back to his boat by 5 PM the next were scared, while the other half Just three days later, the same rang- day, he would again give us a ride to were very excited about seeing a real ers were pursuing the same bear our car that we had parked next to live bear up close! Omar Ellis, the up the Roes Creek trail when the his station. hotel manager, was well aware of this bear turned around and treed one charade and told my Marine friend of the rangers. I guess turnabout that it was “OK” as long as he knew

The Inside Trail ☐ Winter 2008 ☐ 9 that he stood a good chance of being ment can tell you a great deal about shed, so the tracker went back to shot by an overly eager park ranger! the glacier. the Walton Ranger Station and got an armed ranger to return with him One night, down in the grill, the At any rate, the figure turned out to dispatch the bear. Their concern bartender was bragging to me to be a guy sunning himself - au was over the potential locomotive that he had just kicked the bear- naturel! He was starting to turn derailment and possible collapse of costumed night watchman in the pink. This pitiful English tourist the entire snowshed – which would butt while out on the boat dock. I had hiked all the way up from the completely have shut down the main thought that was rather strange. I hotel, crossed the terminal moraine, line of the railroad. They were left pointed out my Marine friend, who got out on the ice, and then hoisted with the problem of how to get the was standing over by the bandstand himself up onto the top of this flat remains off the tracks and out of the snowshed. Reinforcements were sent The bartender turned ashen and had no trouble for, and finally five men removed the shaking cocktails for the rest of the evening! bear from the tracks. My Most Poignant Memory Many years ago, when I maintained talking to a couple of waitresses. rock! No ice axe, rope, or crampons an office in La Jolla, California, I The bartender turned ashen and had – just a tee shirt, shorts, and tennies. had a very pleasant secretary by the no trouble shaking cocktails for the We got him off this rock and back name of Mrs. Koons. She had a big rest of the evening! onto dry land by roping up be- picture of Lake McDonald in her of- Bear With Me tween us so he wouldn’t slip into the fice. Her beautiful daughter Michele crevasses. He no doubt had quite a A couple of rangers at the Swiftcur- had lost her life at Trout Lake on the story to tell back at the North Wales rent Ranger Station asked me if I Night of the Grizzles in 1967. Mi- Solar Society! wanted to join them on their annual chelle had been working in the Lake survey of Grinnell Glacier to record A Poor Choice of Dens McDonald Lodge gift shop. They the changes in size and movement of Around the year 1926, one of the both loved the park. We talked at that body of ice. I had climbed with Great Northern Railway’s track walk- great length about Glacier National them previously, so I felt honored by ers came across a huge grizzly bear Park – both before and after her the invitation. We approached the inside a snowshed uphill from Essex. tragic loss. She never removed the top of the glacier via Swiftcurrent The bear refused to leave the snow- picture from the wall of her office. Pass, Granite Park, and then through an opening in the headwall down onto Salamander Glacier. After checking out some bench- marks, we descended to the huge bergschrund at the top of Grinnell Glacier. We noticed a figure sunning himself on top of G-1, a rock so named by the National Park Service Photo of because of its prominence atop the Jammer bus ice. This erratic probably broke and bear along Going- away from the headwall hundreds to-the-Sun of years ago and was slowly drifting Road. (Photo down toward the snout. It was the T. J. Hileman, size of a good one-car garage – with- courtesy of out any doubt the largest one I had Glacier Park Archives.) ever seen! Keeping track of its move-

10 ☐ Winter 2008 ☐ The Inside Trail PLACE NAMES OF GLACIER A Book Review

(Photo courtesy of the James J. Hill Reference Library)

By John Hagen (Many Glacier 1970-80) One of the best books ever written about Glacier National Park is Jack Holterman’s “Place Names of Glacier/Waterton National Parks” (1985). Holterman recently died at the age of 91, shortly after Place Names was revised and republished by Riverbend Press. Place Names of Glacier is organized as a reference book, with some 650 entries set out in alphabetical order. One tends to snatch it off the bookshelf at odd intervals in response to some passing thought about the Park or to some allusion in The Hungry Horse News. What is the meaning of “Mokowanis?” (“Digestive system of the buffalo.”) Is Mount Reynolds named for “Death on the Trail” Reynolds, the legendary early ranger? (Disappointingly, it is not.) A vastly more rewarding enterprise, however, is to read Place Names straight through to enhance one’s

The Inside Trail ☐ Winter 2008 ☐ 11 (Continued from previous page)

Holterman was a writer of great peaceful Heavy Runner early on a park or because local lumber com- talent and extraordinary learning. winter morning. 173 Blackfeet died, panies tried to get fallen timber for Stanford-educated, he served in the including many women and chil- free. But when the game literally Navy during World War Two and dren. Almost-a-Dog, Natahki, Red back-fired and the village of Essex then taught school on the Blackfeet Horn and Big Horn were among was almost burned down, the good and Kootenai-Salish Reservations. those in the camp; Joe Kipp was a citizens appealed in desperation for He mastered several Indian languag- scout for Baker who unsuccessfully the troopers to save them! Logan es, talked to legions of old-timers, tried to stop the attack; Isabel and was superintendent at the time and and immersed himself in documen- Helen were daughters of the mur- has his name all over the place, but tary archives. dered trader Malcolm Clarke – all the black troops and their officers namesakes of places in Glacier Park. who did the job are now uncom- memorated except by this simple name: Soldier Mountain.” Holterman remarked that, in reviewing Glacier’s Another name derived from the fire place names, “a chaos of tiny vignettes” builds of 1910 is Skeleton Mountain, which into “a grand mosaic.” the intense heat left “white as bone.” Holterman remarks, “This sounds like one of Evans’ names.” R.T. All this research produced a mas- Place Names incorporates scores of Evans, a surveyor in the early 20th terful episodic history of Glacier. other vivid vignettes of Indian his- century, left dramatic names through- Holterman remarked that, in review- tory. We find Jim Bridger breaking out the southern region of the Park ing Glacier’s place names, “a chaos of a truce and racing for safety, with – Vigil, Caper, Statuary, Peril, De- tiny vignettes” builds into “a grand his buttocks bristling with Blackfeet spair. (Later, Holterman remarks that mosaic.” And that is the sense one arrows. We meet the Piegan chief Surprise Pass also “sounds like some- has of Place Names – a grand mosaic, Lone Walker, who kept two pet thing Evans would think of”). in which large themes emerge from bears in his camp (he would spit in a hundreds of vivid anecdotes. visitor’s hands and rub them over the Holterman excels at brief biography. faces of the bears in order to guaran- He offers anecdotal sketches of many One of these themes is the tragic de- tee safe conduct). scores of local characters. Foun- cline of the Blackfeet who once ruled dational figures like George Bird the high plains of northern Montana. A lesser-known ethnic theme in Park Grinnell, James Willard Schultz, Through brief biographies, Holter- history is the role of black “buf- Hugh Monroe, and Kootenai Brown man describes the rising tensions of falo soldiers,” many of them former are rendered deftly in a page or so the 1860s, valiant efforts by chiefs slaves. A troop of them went with apiece. There are endless surprises like Crowfoot, Little Dog and White Lieutenant George Ahern over the – Tom Dawson, portrayed in pioneer Calf to keep the peace, the Baker pass that bears his name (a route fit garb in the famous portrait by Win- Massacre of 1870, and the last des- only for “a crazy man,” said Ahern) old Reiss, was born on the frontier perate hunts for the buffalo on which in 1890. In 1910, “unnamed and but sent to school in Edinburgh and Plains Indian culture depended. unsung,” they fought “the most ap- Liverpool, and “donned a coon-skin palling of forest fires,” which burned The Baker Massacre is related to cap for the first time” when sitting more than 100,000 acres on the many place names in the Park. Col. for Reiss. Jefferson Pass is named for south side of the Park. Eugene Baker led an Army expedi- Thomas Jefferson, “but not the man tion to take vengeance on the hostile Holterman tells wild tales of this you are thinking of” – this “Uncle band of Mountain Chief for murder- fire as it burned near the town of Jeff” was a reformed horse rustler ing a white trader. Instead of the Essex. “Local citizens,” he states, who fled vigilante parties into the hostile band, however, they attacked “deliberately restarted forest fires out North Fork and then made a career the smallpox-ridden band of the of resentment of the new national as a guide and a packer.

12 ☐ Winter 2008 ☐ The Inside Trail (Continued from previous page) Place Names relates all sorts of other someone else,” and died as a result. The 2006 version ofPlace Names colorful stories. We are reminded lacks some of the freshness of the Holterman is tart and spirited, and that the prospectors’ rush of the late original. One winces to look at the full of ironic commentary on various 1890s in Swiftcurrent Valley was cover and see some marketer asking revered historical figures. This tone triggered when James Willard Schul- rhetorically, “Why is there Two Dog, is notable in his comments about tz hoaxed a man with an ouija board Little Dog, and Almost a Dog but Schultz, whom he considers most (Schultz purported to have learned no Cat?” One also gets the impres- unreliable (he refers to Schultz’s My of gold in the valley from “the ghost sion that Holterman, in his old age, Life as an Indian as an “autobio- of Bedrock Jim”). Of Maggie Howe was besieged all manner of people graphical novel”). He notes that (the wife of Charlie Howe of Howe wanting to change his original text “Schultz, as usual, claims to have Ridge), we are told: “When Mrs. in order to advance their own per- given the ‘ibex’ the name of ‘moun- Howe was substituting for a Japanese sonal crochets and agendas. Never- tain goat,’” and elsewhere observes cook at the Belton Hotel, she drank theless, it’s a great benefit to Glacier that on a particular detail “Schultz by mistake a cup of poisoned wine to have this invaluable reference and [Blackfeet chronicler Walter] or coffee that had been prepared for work back in print once more. McClintock agree (for once!).”

Holterman excels at brief biography. He offers anecdotal sketches of many scores of local characters. Foundational figures like George Bird Grinnell, James Willard Schultz, Hugh Monroe, and Kootenai Brown are rendered deftly in a page or so apiece.

Left: George Bird Grinnell (Photo courtesy of the Glacier National Park archives). Above: James Willard Schultz interviewing Blood Indians in 1927 (photo courtesy of the James J. Hill Reference Library).

The Inside Trail ☐ Winter 2008 ☐ 13 Slip-Sliding Away An Adventure on Mount Grinnell By Barry Lott (Many Glacier 1975) Upon making it to the top (yes, we viding that you could control your actually made it!), there was offered descent rate. That was factored by In the summer of ‘75, at the age of to us the most breathtaking view the amount of heel digging, elbow 18 and having just finished high of tiny Many Glacier Hotel. We gouging and hand dragging that school, I worked as a dishwasher on were also surprised to find a pile of you could muster on the way down. the evening shift at Many Glacier rocks holding a small American flag. This was all predicated, however, on Hotel. It was just about perfect, for Within that pile of rocks was a sealed the administration of a scientific test. I had all morning off to explore the tube. We opened it up, and inside The theory was that if you threw a park and didn’t start my job till just before the evening meal. The boys on our shift got together frequently Nothing with ropes or requiring skill, mind you, to hike the trails that surrounded the hotel. I have long since forgotten just lots of effort and a lot of luck. the names, but not the faces of my three comrades in adventure. We decided to get an early start and were a pencil and notepad with the rock out into the center of the chute hike to the top of Mt. Grinnell. So names of those who had preceded and it stuck (as opposed to sliding we started up the trail to the east us. It dated back many years. Each on down) the snow was soft enough base of the mountain and began taking our turn, we all placed our to control your descent. So out the our climb. Nothing with ropes or names into the log. (I hope that the rock went, and it stuck in the snow. requiring skill, mind you, just lots of names of our crew are still there, in effort and a lot of luck. Now, I need to develop for you a case you should be overcome with visual of what lay before us. It was a About halfway up the east face, there curiosity and feel the need to know large steep crevasse in the mountain is an abandoned copper mine. (You who was in our party!) about 30 yards wide and 150 yards can see the tailings from Many Gla- Having accomplished that milestone long. There were boulders sticking cier Hotel’s west balcony that over- into our manhood, we departed. out in the middle of the crevasse looks the lake.) We stopped there This time we planned to descend the about two-thirds of the way down. to explore the mine’s depths. The western face, which we hoped would And there also were boulders galore rails were still in place for the ore be easier going down than the east at the bottom of the snow chute. cars, and even the trucks for the cars face. Noting that the sun was lower Not the greatest prospect for a safe remained. So into the dark mine in the sky than we had hoped, we descent under the best of conditions. with flashlights we went, following hastened our departure, not want- But I digress. the tracks ever deeper into the cold, ing to make any part of that journey dark mine. Eventually, water in the The rock stuck. Before I could com- home in the dark. mine began to cover the tracks and ment upon the fact that the rock was visions of old scary movies about Now here’s where it gets more flat and that it had landed on edge, things that live in such places began interesting. We had come upon a and that of course it would stick to invade our minds. On that note “snow chute” that went down for under those conditions, the first of we figured we had done enough ex- perhaps 150 yards. We debated our crew jumped. Down he went, ploring of the mine and retraced our the possibility of using it for our obviously out of control. He con- steps quickly back to the entrance, descent to save some time. One tinued to gain speed -- that is, until where we resumed our journey up of the crew mentioned that he had he hit the boulders in the middle of the slope. heard from someone (who had heard the chute. Flying into the air, falling from someone else and so on) that back again and resuming his accel- you could descend the chute, pro- eration to the bottom, he slammed

14 ☐ Winter 2008 ☐ The Inside Trail (Continued from previous page) into the boulders at the end. The re- to signal our appreciation of this burn on the right sides of our faces, maining three of us stood at the top stunt. However, I was busy physi- leaving us white on the other side. and watched in amazement as the cally restraining the number three Believe me, it was difficult to explain man at the bottom arose, jumped man from jumping. how we survived yet ended up with up and down while waving his arms, only a half-faced sunburn to show The two of us worked our way down and yelled “I made it!” for it. to the first two men. We found that Now, before I could say anything, they were only scraped up a bit and That sunburn is long gone, but the second man jumped. I have to otherwise unhurt. Amazing, isn’t it, the memory of the events that led admit that this second man gave a that in our youth, we feel immortal up to it will remain forever in my better show. He did what looked -- impervious to our own stupid- heart. Maybe someone will take a like a half-gainer upon hitting the ity, relying on Lady Luck to keep us spare pencil and pad up to the top rocks in the middle. He made a alive. to augment the one that was there. spectacular body-slam into the first Someone else will explore the cop- We made our way down the west man, which of course softened his per mine on the way up the east face face of Mt. Grinnell, taking what final stop. A great finale would have and report whether or not there are seemed like forever to cover the been for the two of us remaining at “things” living in that mine. But miles that remained. The sun was the top to have raised white cards hopefully, no one will try our snow low on the horizon during these last with the number 10 printed in black chute stunt again! miles. We all suffered from sun-

A SWIFTCURRENT HOMECOMING By Martha Schlenk (Swiftcurrent 1958-60) (Photo courtesy of the Glacier National Park archives) A fellow Swiftcurrent employee, Marcia Monthey, and I made a return visit to Gla- cier last summer. It was wonderful to revisit old haunts and see the Park as beautiful as ever despite shrinking glaciers. I had not been back in 44 years! Hopefully I’ll get back again sooner than that! And Marcia and I hadn’t seen one another in that time either, although we obviously had stayed in touch. When Marcia and I checked in at Swiftcur- rent a funny thing happened. We couldn’t believe it. Not only had they booked us into our old dormitory building (now a motel), but they booked us into the very room that we had lived in while working there. How Ian Tippet and serendipitous was that?! Martha Schlenk share some memmo- Enclosed is a photo of Ian Tippet and me, ries from their shared taken during the course of our trip. It was past (Photo courtesy fun to visit with our old “boss” from those of Martha Schlenk. days of long ago!

The Inside Trail ☐ Winter 2008 ☐ 15 MAMA FRASE of Lake McD by Carol Lindsay (Lake McDonald her affluent guests year after year Toward the rest of us, Mama was a Lodge 1952; Glacier Park Lodge 1955) as members of an exclusive club tyrant – a female General Patton. reserved for the rich and famous. Woe to the hapless waitress or bus- Some years ago, I saw a newspaper How many others could command a boy who displeased the aging mon- story about the restoration of Lake staff of hundreds in a setting re- arch. Termination of employment McDonald Lodge in Glacier Nation- nowned the world over? was often swift and brutal: “The bus al Park. The architects claimed that leaves for Belton in half an hour and the renovation was carried out with Mama had two weaknesses, as far I want you on it.” attention to the smallest detail from as I could see. One was a singular the latches on the bathroom stalls devotion to the head cook, and the A withering stare from Mama could to the weathered rocks in the dining other was a myopic attachment to upset the delicate balancing act of room fireplace. her niece, who was employed as the the most accomplished waiter, send- ing a tray and its contents clatter- The summer parade of tourists continues. ing to the floor. This might set in motion a dissonant counterpart to New faces greet guests in the storied old the romantic violin concerto in the lodge, but when a fully stacked tray rattles dining room, as the bearer collapsed to the floor in an otherwise peaceful dining in tears in the kitchen. room, the ghost of a corpulent dictator smiles. Cleanup under Mama’s watchful eye And I remember Mama. often lasted until 10:30 p.m., throw- ing evening rendezvous plans of the college-aged staff into chaos. We But I beg to differ. To be authentic, dining room hostess. The hostess’s were called to account for every er- they would have had to resurrect one long dark hair and olive complexion rant crumb on a chair or fingerprint of the hostelry’s most colorful char- were ideally suited to her role as an on a salt or pepper shaker. acters – Mama Frase. In her heyday Indian Princess. Her lovely facial in the ‘50s, Mrs. Frase personally features, however, were usually over- The summer parade of tourists con- hired or fired every employee as- powered by heavy pancake makeup tinues. New faces greet guests in the signed to Lake McDonald. and layers of mascara, while her storied old lodge, but when a fully southern drawl was evident the mo- stacked tray rattles to the floor in an Who could forget Mama? You didn’t ment she spoke the words, “Good otherwise peaceful dining room, the need her picture on a snapshot taken morning, y’all.” No matter; she ghost of a corpulent dictator smiles. on a beautiful day with the lodge and could do no wrong in Mama’s eyes. And I remember Mama. tour buses as a backdrop, nor would you want one. She had only two characteristics worth noting – her New! The Glacier Park Foundation has added a size and an absolute knowledge of who she was. But that was enough. forum section to the website. Add this new link: She was built like Texas, her native “http://www.glacierparkfoundation.org/forums” state: colossal in every aspect except height. Her fleshy layers, tightly This should be a great communication tool for corseted, tended to escape unfettered all Glacier lovers! in her limbs. Add your ideas and stories for all to enjoy! From her throne room, the dining room, this dowager queen greeted

16 ☐ Winter 2008 ☐ The Inside Trail A Second Career in Glacier By Mark Stokstad (Many Glacier I was living in the same dorm, eating the same food, sitting on the same porch 1967, 2007) and singing the same music as in 1967. Not a whit of progress in 40 years! Spending the summer of 1967 as a The work was really quite demanding, a full forty hours and most of it on bellman at the Many Glacier Hotel your feet. With the flood the previous fall, there was plenty of cleaning was a high point in my young life. needed as well as light repairs to get the stores open. The hotel filled almost Forty years later, my wife and I found immediately and stayed full through September. Work days started early or ourselves asking, “Can you go back?” ran late. At times we’d wonder why we were doing this for Montana mini- We now know the answer. Absolutely! mum wage. Then we’d look at the view across Swiftcurrent Lake to Grinnell Point and Mt. Wilbur. Or we’d join the kids on the steps of the dorm for a In December 2006, having recently cigar and toddy. The question was easily answered. retired, we found ourselves complet- ing the on-line application. We re- One nice change has been made since 1967. We had 2 days off each week! quested assignment at Many Glacier So in 4 months we were able to do a great many of the day hikes, a bit of and hoped to be staying in the crow’s backpacking and a couple of easy climbs. nest as couples did in the 60’s. We Downsides? Sure. After a lifetime of fine home cooking, we found the were tickled to have a phone inter- institutional food to be tiresome. No criticism of the cooks, they were great! view in February and be offered po- The material they had to work with was just ok. And one does get a bit tired sitions. Mary was to work in the gift of having to get dressed to go potty. shop and I in Heidi’s convenience store downstairs. Would we do it again? In a heartbeat! We’ll likely be applying at another park this winter, as volunteers or employees, though likely for a period We arrived in the park with every toy we owned – camper, kayaks, shorter than 4 months. Can you go back? We’re delighted that we did! bikes, backpacks, etc. Since so many couples now work at Many G, part At some point I noticed I was living in the same of the upper dorm had been con- dorm, eating the same food, sitting on the same verted to couples housing. We were assigned a room there. Our first porch and singing the same music as in 1967. challenge was to figure out how to store all of those toys. The room was 12 feet square, with a small dresser, desk and tiny hanging space. Did we really need all that stuff? Fortu- nately, the folks at Johnson’s camp- ground had allowed us to store the camper there for a reasonable fee. I was delighted to see how little has changed at Many G in 40 years. The shared baths were about the same, though a brand new one had been added for the ladies. The EDR (em- ployee dining room) looked exactly the same. And just like 1967, there were 200 talented, bright, energetic and hard working kids (of all ages) to Before and after. Mark Stokstad alone from 1967 and with his wife, get to know. At some point I noticed Mary, in 2007.

The Inside Trail ☐ Winter 2008 ☐ 17 Closing the Hotel by Dick Schwab (Many Glacier 1947- bachelor groups high on inaccessible quil and vacant place suddenly be- 1952) cliffy meadows, now joined the ewes longed entirely to the lucky few of us and lambs in preparation for their In 1948, the last year I was a house- who had stayed on. Quiet reigned jousting matches. They were all boy, I stayed on after the hotel had outside as well, broken only rarely by making for protected winter retreats. closed to be a part of the crew that the sound of a maintenance truck. At the time I speculated, perhaps put the place to bed for the long, The isolated sounds of our voices wrongly, that some were headed to- fierce winter. This was a very pleas- and our small operations echoed in ward the well-defined game trail that ant, nostalgic time. The Indian the lifeless Lobby and halls. Our would take them up along the base summer weather, following an earlier crew shared a cheerful mood of of the cliff on Mt. Allen to the isola- cold cycle of frost and even snow, intimacy as we worked to store tion of Snow Moon and Falling Leaf was gorgeous. Poplars, alders, and furnishings, beds, linens, blankets, Lakes. We had happened upon this broad-leafed shrubs on the moun- bear pelts, and other decorations in Snow Moon trail in 1947 and have tainsides had turned golden yellow, various places in the hotel. regularly followed it since then to the and there were patches of red and two high lakes in the lap of Mt. Al- After we left, the windows were orange among the greens and soft len, passing the beautiful falls at their boarded up and sealed against the tans on the slopes. The skies were a outlet, which we had the effrontery winter. We were kept very busy cobalt blue, and everything in view to name after ourselves. every day, but I cannot recall just was more luminous than at any exactly what we did, only the other time of the year. The lakes The bighorns faced a nervous passage strangeness and the tranquil, expect- glistened more brightly. over the bridge that spanned Swift- ant mood of the place. When I was current Falls down by the Bellhops’ In the mornings and evenings the air walking alone in the empty hotel I Chalet. They would gather in herds was cold and bracing, and the light actually seemed to feel the presence of up to fifty or sixty north of the of day through a soft haze added of “a host of phantom listeners” like falls and mill about for a long time a lovely aura to the mountains, those in Walter de la Mare’s poem, before twos and threes of the coura- lakes, and forests, enhancing all the although I was at the time an eigh- geous ones would clatter across the colors. The smell of smoke in the teenth-century Enlightenment kind bridge and break free at a gallop atmosphere gave me the cozy feel- of skeptic and rationalist. At some time during those years there must have been a discussion of this doc- The tranquil and vacant place suddenly belonged trine among us. A fellow employee, entirely to the lucky few of us who had stayed on. Homer Saetre, revisiting the hotel thirty years later, told Mark he had been shocked to discover I was an ing associated with the warmth of across the low cream-colored shoul- agnostic, possibly even an atheist. fireplaces and wood stoves in forest der of Altyn limestone rising just The evenings were especially memo- cabins. In the late afternoons, long behind the hotel. It was a magnifi- rable for the crew who were closing shadows and muted colors in the cent sight to see formation after for- the place. We all ate a supper of valleys contrasted with the glorious mation of the great rams with their delicious dining room food together. displays of the fall sunsets. massive horns held high running Then we would gather around a fire across the long ridge of limestone, Large herds of bighorn sheep came crackling in the great rock fireplace silhouetted against the blue sky. down to the base of Mt. Altyn in the in the Lobby and talk quietly as the fall from their remote summer ranges After a season of ceaseless bustle and night air outside grew more and back in the mountains. The heavy- activity, the hotel and all around it more frigid. Mrs. Rhody or one of horned rams, which had grazed in stood silent and deserted. The tran- the other cooks brought out delicious

18 ☐ Winter 2008 ☐ The Inside Trail pastries and steaming coffee. It was Although several of us talked oc- settled down to hibernate and give a quiet party, of sorts, and the hotel casionally of returning to see what birth to cubs. Whatever the exact looked more beautiful to me then Many looked like in the winter, circumstances were, it left a horren- than at any other time I can recall. only Doug George made it back to dous mess to be cleaned up before visit the caretakers one December the hotel opened. According to We had already had a taste of what or January. For part of the winter people who spend most of the year winter was like in the Park with the the road to Babb was closed by deep in the area, there are few good days blizzard of July 28th of 1948, as a re- snow, and the only way out was by during the winter in the Park. The sult of which people all over Glacier, skis, snowshoes, and later by snow sun rarely comes out. When that including four of us trapped at Lake cat and snowmobile. The weather happens, however, it is incredibly McDonald, were snowbound for a was ferocious, with howling blizzards beautiful, as many photographs by day or two. When it cleared up, the building up immense drifts that Mel Ruder and Brian Kennedy show. snow-covered mountains were spec- covered the chalets and sometimes a tacularly beautiful, whiter even than good share of the hotel. During one they had been when we first arrived of the winters a bear somehow broke at the beginning of the season before in, and, I think it was reported, the great melts. In a Mountain Valley

(An Invisible Inscription) By Dick Schwab (Many Glacier 1947-52) To the Memory of Phil Schwab (Many Glacier 1948-52)

I have come to rest here, where peaks first welcomed me. This quiet place is mine now, before a splendid scene. Far winding trails I walked here, then sat beneath a tree, And was content in the forest’s green.

And now I have full peace here, for peace comes sighing low, Down from the crags of the mountains, to where the marmot sings. Here midnight’s bright with moonlight, dawn a red-gold glow, And dusk is full of the swallows’ wings.

And I will stay and rest here, and through each golden day, I’ll hear the west wind whisper to the water’s lapping sound; And strangers who walk by here, will pause along the way, And sense they stand on sacred ground.

This poem is in memory of my brother, Phil, whose ashes now lie in the Swift- current Valley. I thought it would be good here to echo the sounds and some of the spirit of one of the finest and most tranquil of poems: Yeats’ “The Lake Isle of Innisfree” (1893).

The Inside Trail ☐ Winter 2008 ☐ 19 A New Photographic Glacier Journal fully composed – a green humming- eral fine photos of wildflower mead- bird feeding on purple fireweed, its ows – blue-purple camas, groundsel body crisply defined and its wings wafting around in the breeze like a ghostly blur, a mountain bluebird yellow bumblebees, a whitetail deer with all the down on its chest fluffed with a rapturous expression on its out like blue hairs on a paintbrush, a face amid a field of blossoms. hawk owl gliding like a warplane. One of Peterson’s most striking pho- Glacier Geographic’s first issues tos is a close-up of the long-aban- contain other striking wildlife doned Heaven’s Peak Fire Lookout, shots. A black bear peers from its with green and orange lichens den in the trunk of a huge dead encrusting its stone base and the cottonwood tree – 150 feet in the jagged peaks of the Livingston Range air, according to the caption (a tre- tossing in the background. Peterson mendous height – is that a typo?)! A describes a nightmarish seven hour By John Hagen (Many Glacier 1970-80) weasel tussels with a ground squirrel bushwhack to reach the lookout, while transferring its young from den which he rates as possibly the worst Glacier Geographic, a new photo- to den near Logan Pass. Mountain hike in Glacier Park. He recalls: graphic journal, has begun publica- sheep graze amid flaming mountain “We even managed to bust a can of tion on a quarterly basis. Its creator ash in autumn shots in the Cut Bank bear spray. I guess you could call is Chris Peterson, a former editor of Valley. that motivation to get out of there.” The Hungry Horse News. Peterson also presents some vivid The magnificent photos inGla - Peterson is a superb photographer, landscapes and skyscapes. A full cier Geographic are well worth the known especially for his skill in tak- moon sets in an indigo sky above rosy subscription price ($19.95 a year, ing telephoto pictures of birds. Bird alpenglow on the southwest ridge of of which $4.00 is donated to the photography is prominently featured Mt. Cleveland in “Good Morning, Glacier National Park Fund). For in the first two issues of Glacier Geo- Belly River.” Ranger Lyle Ruterbories more information on the journal, graphic, with photo essays on blue- (87 years old) poses smiling before a go to “www.glaciergeographic.com”, birds, hawk owls, hummingbirds and shimmering panorama of Kintla Lake or write to 80 13th St. E., Columbia black-backed woodpeckers. The bird and Long Knife Peak. There are sev- Falls, MT 59912. shots are vividly colored and master- JOIN THE GLACIER PARK FOUNDATION All friends of Glacier Park are invited to join the Glacier Park Foundation. Membership includes a subscription to The Inside Trail and the right to vote for directors. Please download a membership form from our Web Site (www.glacier- parkfoundation.org) or send your name, address, phone number, and park experience to Glacier Park Foundation, Box 15641, Minneapolis, MN 55415. An annual membership in the Foundation costs $10. A “Friend of the Park” membership costs $25 annually, cumulat- ing to a Lifetime membership in five installments. A Lifetime membership paid in one installment costs $100. The Glacier Park Foundation is a § 501(c)(3) nonprofit corporation. Contributions are tax deductible to the extent per- mitted by law.

(Panorama by Christine Baker)

20 ☐ Winter 2008 ☐ The Inside Trail