Magazine of National Parks Association of

Cyclone Debbie’s impact on parks PLUS The ecological effects of high-energy storms

ALSO FEATURED Wooroonooran National Park Misty Mountains Wilderness Trails Issue 15

Littoral rainforests June - July 2017 1 Contents From the President ������������������������� 3 Misty Mountains trails...... 10 FROM THE PRESIDENT ’s impact on parks �� 4 Littoral rainforests...... 12 The ecological effects of The National Park Experience...... 13 high-energy storms ������������������������ 6 Spotlight: Ranger of the Month...... 14 Wooroonooran National Park ����������� 8 What’s On / Vale...... 15

Editorial team Advertising enquiries Fred McKie (editor/designer), Laura Hahn and Please email [email protected] or phone Jeannie Rice. (07) 3367 0878. Michelle Prior President, National Parks Association of Queensland (NPAQ) Notice of Contributor guidelines Advertising policy NPAQ invites contributions to Protected Advertisements are required to align with AGM articles. Please email [email protected] for a relevant NPAQ policies. NPAQ reserves the Change. Throughout human history, schedule of future editions. right to refuse any advertisement at any time. Severe cyclones are important in Advertisement in Protected does not imply there has always been change, National Parks Contributors, please include contact details NPAQ’s endorsement of products or services. sometimes fast and sometimes slow. maintaining species diversity in and brief personal summary. Articles can be Life is about cycles. However, Association of submitted via email or hard copy. Digital photos Copyright and disclaimer while a single human life is of limited tropical rainforests ... nature has Queensland Inc should be minimum 300dpi. NPAQ retains copyright of Protected. Articles duration, many things created by the amazing ability to deal with will hold its annual Cover image may be quoted provided that appropriate humans last for generations. This acknowledgement occurs in the reproduction is because people, in their turn, general meeting Whitehaven Beach in and use of material. significant change. National Park, which was hit hard by contribute what is needed at each on Wednesday, Cyclone Debbie, during the clean-up effort. Articles in Protected do not necessarily reflect evolutionary step – through which Sadly though, the human species lined with trees is now a dam. What September 20, 2017. Photo: . the NPAQ’s opinion or position. comes times of transition, experiences tends to dramatically alter nature and once was pristine beach is now littered of learning and ability to build resilience the natural evolutionary processes – with plastic debris. for the future. effectively laying waste to the earth. Venue and starting About NPAQ Species are lost and, as time Throughout natural history, there has What once was a forest is now passes, some no one even time will be confirmed also always been change, sometimes Mission statement concrete. What once was a deep gully remembers existing. closer to the date. The National Parks Association of Queensland (NPAQ) caused by nature and sometimes promotes the preservation, expansion and good caused by humans. Such is the human tendency for management of national parks in Queensland. destruction of nature, that 44 years Often change brings about renewal Nominations ago, in 1973, one day of the calendar Council Staff – the forest fire that causes seeds to for council sprout, the flood that clears a stagnant year (June 5) was set aside to raise President Michelle Prior Business Development Officer Marika Strand pool. Other events change the face of global awareness and action for Vice Presidents Tony O’Brien Communications Officer Fred McKie the earth, destroying all in its path. protecting the natural environment – Are you interested in Athol Lester Conservation Officer Laura Hahn World Environment Day. driving the strategic Hon Secretary Debra Marwedel Project & Office Administrator Jeannie Rice However, what at first may appear This year’s theme is ‘Connecting Asst Hon Secretary Yvonne Parsons total decimation from a natural event, direction of NPAQ People to Nature’. Hon Treasurer Graham Riddell Contact details such as a cyclone, can in fact be a on behalf of its process of renewal. Councillors David Ball Office Unit 10/36 Finchley St, Milton Here at NPAQ we believe that people membership and Julie Hainsworth Post PO Box 1040, Milton QLD 4064 Research has discovered that severe know that they are connected to contributing to good Daniel Kelly Phone (07) 3367 0878 cyclones are important in maintaining nature – that no amount of concrete, Denis McMullen Web www.npaq.org.au species diversity in tropical rainforests. Rangers faced a massive task to reopen steel and air conditioning can cause governance? walking tracks after Cyclone Debbie, such as Richard Proudfoot Email [email protected] Severely disturbed areas later have complete and utter severance of the higher levels of diversity and variation. the Pine Grove Circuit at Eungella National Alexsis Wilson ABN 60 206 792 095 Park (above), and (top) work to restore sand interconnectedness of the human and Nominations to be an Nature has the amazing ability to to Whitehaven Beach after it was eroded. natural worlds. It’s just that sometimes NPAQ councillor are Want to get involved with NPAQ? deal with significant change. PHOTOS: QUEENSLAND GOVERNMENT people need to be reminded. NPAQ welcomes people from all walks of life and offers a variety of ways to be involved: now open. • Have fun in the bush – come • Step up – become a National • Connect with us – Facebook, along on a bush walk or Parks Conservation member Instagram and Twitter Below are some Queensland national parks images recently shared with NPAQ on Instagram Connecting with nature ... tag your posts #connectandprotect or #nationalparksqld for a chance to be featured other activity or a National Parks Protector • Stay in touch – read regular Please contact • Get your hands dirty – • Donate – support our work updates on our website Curtis Falls in the Balancing Rock on Hikers atop Mt Joalah section of top of The Pyramid Ngungun in Glass The Secretary for a participate in on-ground • Volunteer on exciting projects • Share a bush adventure with Tamborine National in Girraween House Mountains conservation efforts children – download NPAQ’s councillor nomination • Subscribe to Protected and Park in the Gold National Park on the National Park on the • Join us – become a member Neck of the Woods via email Kids in National Parks guide form. Email Coast Hinterland. Granite Belt. Sunshine Coast. [email protected] SUPPORT NPAQ AND HELP MAKE A DIFFERENCE — @kenwarephotos — @tnttravels — @dronestlkr or call (07) 3367 0878. BECOME A MEMBER, DONATE OR VOLUNTEER www.npaq.org.au/get-involved www.facebook.com/NPAQld @nationalparksassocqld @NPA_Qld

2 3 SWIFT ACTION HELPS TO MITIGATE WIDESPREAD IMPACT ON PARKS Collaboration features strongly in cyclone clean-up effort

Laura Hahn Be safe! Check parks alerts before heading to a Conservation Officer, National Parks Association of Queensland (NPAQ) national park: www.npsr.qld.gov.au/park-alerts

Queenslanders are a resilient bunch, a bedraggled cockatoo. However, tested by drought, flood, bushfires, DEBBIE BY NUMBERS unlike cyclones Yasi (2011) and Larry severe storms and tropical cyclones. (2006), when the loss of canopy But is our environment resilient? caused a food shortage for the landslides on Lamington Many Queensland national parks National Park Road endangered southern cassowary 73 population, no concerns over any were heavily impacted in late March Queensland parks and and early April as Cyclone Debbie forests totally reopen by specific species have been noted by cut a path of destruction centred on 190 Easter (out of 223 affected) rangers or conservation groups. the Whitsunday and Mackay regions, wind speed (km/h) recorded before tracking south and creating in the Whitsundays region 263 Is full recovery possible? widespread flooding. cubic metres of mulch created from uprooted Although about 95 per cent of The extent of the disaster has vegetation on Whitsunday led to a mammoth clean-up Queensland’s parks and forests had 700 Island (approximate) reopened by the time of publication, involving Queensland Parks and millimetres of rainfall in full recovery remains a long way off. Wildlife Service (QPWS) rangers in some areas – more than half collaboration with others. 1000 the annual average Yet many Queensland parks cubic metres of sand shifted affected by cyclones in recent years Protected areas hit hard back onto a 350m section – Girramay, Undara Volcanic and 10k of Whitehaven Beach Bowling Green Bay (Yasi, 2011) and While cyclones are a natural part parks in the Scenic Rim (Oswald, of Queensland’s tropical coastal 2013) – have largely recovered. environment, they not only wreak Clockwise from top: Whitsunday Island National Park after Cyclone Debbie; mulching havoc for humans but have the power of fallen vegetation on Whitehaven Beach; debris post-flooding at Purling Brook Falls in The assistance of rangers from Circuit forced the popular track to As fragmented forest systems to transform landscapes and change Springbrook National Park. PHOTOS: QUEENSLAND GOVERNMENT unaffected parts of the state and close for the foreseeable future. are less resilient to cyclones given their higher ratio of edge to area and the structure of ecosystems. collaboration with other agencies, On Whitsunday Island, amid a The marine environment also access lane on Lamington National forests stripped of vegetation are A total of 223 parks and forests including the Great Barrier Reef successful scramble to restore tour suffered severe damage with Airlie Park Road after the storm caused susceptible to weed infestation1, across Queensland were affected by Marine Park Authority which brought boat access to Whitehaven Beach Beach-based ranger Kay Kunze 73 land slips, one of which was expansion of the protected area Cyclone Debbie. in two crewed vessels to assist with and clear the track to Hill Inlet before observing “football fields and football completely impassable. recovery efforts around the island Easter, uprooted vegetation removed estate can only increase resilience. Destructive winds and very heavy fields” of coral totally devastated. parks, was supported by volunteers from the foreshore created about 700 With the intensity of cyclones, floods rain battered numerous parks and drought expected to increase due Meanwhile, in the Mackay region, ‘Safety first’ approach from groups such as Bushwalking cubic metres of mulch. off Queensland’s central coast 2/3 the reported Queensland and Federation of to climate change , it is essential. – including Whitsunday Islands, QPWS’s priority was “safety first”, In Eungella National Park, rangers that some areas had more than 1m Mountain Rescue undertaking GPS Lindeman Islands and Repulse Islands followed by the reopening of park worked tirelessly to open the Pine of rain within a two-day period – more mapping of fallen vegetation. References – as well as Conway and Eungella Grove Circuit by Easter. Most day than half the average annual rainfall. areas that attract the most visitors. on the mainland, causing defoliation, In Lamington National Park, where use areas and tracks were reopened 1 Turton & Dale, 2007. An assessment of the As rains ceased and flood waters erosion and flooding. Tracks and As recovery efforts in the two rangers were trapped at the park subsequently, with only the Crediton environmental impacts of on the receded, rangers faced a massive forest landscapes of northeast Queensland, roads blocked by fallen trees and land Whitsunday and Mackay regions for two days and the mountain road Creek trail expected to remain closed task in addressing land slips and submitted to the Bureau of Meteorology, with slips forced closures en masse. began, the now ex- was closed to the public for a month for some time. reference to responses to natural resource clearing fallen trees. The cyclone continued to track down the coastline, while an estimated total of 10,000 Although closed at Easter, Conway management issues in the aftermath. Whitsunday Island’s renowned had hit only two weeks before the Whitehaven Beach, more exposed affecting many more parks. cubic metres of soil was cleared, National Park opened soon after; half 2 Thomas R. Knutson, John L. McBride, Johnny Easter long weekend, one of the than nearby Hamilton Island which Torrential rains and strong winds ranger Wil Buch even commandeered of its tracks are now accessible. Chan, Kerry Emanuel, Greg Holland, Chris most popular times for national park Landsea, Isaac Held, James P. Kossin, A. K. recorded wind gusts of 263km/h, caused flooding, land slips and a council backhoe and staff! In the visitation in Queensland. Srivastava & Masato Sugi, 2010. Tropical cyclones was unrecognisable after facing the considerable fallen vegetation in the Binna Burra section, the loss of a and climate change, Nature Geosciences 2010; full force of the Category 4 tropical Springbrook and Lamington parks Yet by Easter, 190 parks and forests spectacular stand of 500-year-old How have our wildlife fared? p157-163. cyclone and suffering its worst erosion within the . It had reopened, with 20 partly opened tallowwood trees and the collapse of Debbie’s impact on wildlife has 3 CSIRO, 2015. Climate change information. since (1970). took two days to open an emergency and only 13 closed. about 100m of cliff onto the Caves been highlighted by a viral video of Accessed May 8, 2017. 4 5 ECOLOGICAL EFFECTS OF HIGH-ENERGY STORMS ON WET TROPICS RAINFORESTS How tropical cyclones serve as shaping agents

Dr Steve Turton Adjunct Professor, Central Queensland University,

Tropical cyclones are the most events4. On an evolutionary timescale, Clockwise from left: of about 1 in 70 years, so the fact In the southern hemisphere, the significant high-energy storm cyclones are very much a part of Damage caused by they occurred within five years of each strongest winds and heaviest rains are in Djiru events affecting lowland and the ecosystem dynamics of these other was unusual, but not statistically on the southern side of the cyclone’s National Park; a map upland rainforests in Queensland’s ancient forested landscapes; while showing the tracks of impossible. What made them even path of movement. Tornadoes internationally-recognised Wet Tropics canopy recovery is often remarkably cyclones Larry and more interesting was not their core occasionally form in the wall and World Heritage Area1 – and they help rapid, however, forest structure and Yasi; Wooroonooran wind speeds, which were similar, but outer rain bands of cyclones, leading to shape the ecosystem. composition may take many decades National Park after the large difference in the sizes of the to localised extreme forest damage. being hit by Cyclone The role of cyclones in the to recover following severe storms. Larry, as viewed from two systems – as determined by the Under certain conditions, severe ecosystem dynamics of rainforests in the air. outer perimeter of strong gales. leeward turbulence – associated the bioregion has been recognised How common are severe PHOTOS: WET At the time of landfall, Larry’s area with gravity waves propagating off since the pioneering work of the late TROPICS IMAGES the Atherton Tablelands towards the cyclones in the Wet Tropics? & DR STEVE of damaging to very destructive winds Dr Len Webb, who undertook detailed TURTON coast – can severely damage large If we are to gain a better covered only 950sq km compared with surveys of the coastal rainforests areas of rainforest at the base of the understanding of the role of tropical Yasi’s impressive 2200sq km. between Cairns and Ingham after escarpment. All of these factors came cyclones in Queensland’s Wet Tropics Cyclone Agnes in 19562. into play for both Larry and Yasi. rainforests, we need baseline data Landscape changes caused Dr Webb noted that local on their intensity and frequency by Larry and Yasi The only difference between the two topographic effects – as well as the characteristics. cyclones could be expected to affect it crossed the coast near Mission was the spatial extent of damage. frequency and intensity of cyclones Topography plays a significant role 5 the region every 200 years or so. Beach on February 3, 2011, causing One study noted that Larry affected – were important determinants of A recent study examined in accounting for forest impact westward-moving severe cyclones On a global scale, the Wet Tropics widespread and locally severe patterns and recovery processes after about 30 per cent of the Wet Tropics wind damage at different scales. 5 (category 3 or greater6) that crossed are deemed to have a “medium” damage to rainforests and melaleuca cyclones, at the landscape-scale World Heritage Area , with forest Areas frequently affected, which 9 7 forests from Cairns to Ingham . It was damage ranging from severe to minor. suffered canopy lowering and species the coast between Cooktown and frequency of severe tropical cyclones (greater than 10km), where winds moving at 25-30km/h when it made compositional changes, tended to be Ingham from 1858 to 2011. compared with other tropical ocean undergo complex interactions with Another study11 estimated that landfall and tracked southwest over dominated by vine towers and weed basins around the world, such as the steep terrain10. Depending on the Yasi affected about 60 per cent of It found that category 3 cyclones the inland of northeast Queensland. invasion. Understorey fuel load also had a return interval of about 1 in 20 northwest Pacific. location of the cyclone centre and the World Heritage Area, including increased, however the fire risk in years and category 4 cyclones about Many rainforest ecosystems badly its path of movement, rainforests in areas previously damaged by Larry. It severely damaged patches of forest 1 in 70 years, whereas category 5 Cyclones Larry and Yasi: two affected by Larry five years earlier – mountainous areas may experience also demonstrated that the damaging depended on subsequent rainfall. intense, but contrasting storms such as around Mission Beach – were severe windward exposure to winds effects of Yasi were large enough to still far from recovered when Yasi hit. Finally, Dr Webb concluded that Cyclone Larry, with maximum wind and topographic shading due to offset ’s forest carbon sink in the catastrophic effect of cyclones gusts near 240km/h, was a compact Both cyclones had return intervals leeward protection from strong winds. the previous year, 2010. on rainforests in the region overrode but intense category 4 system (about usual ecological factors. In impacted 300km across) when it crossed the References areas – even without human coast near Innisfail on March 20, 1 Wet Tropics of Queensland of the Ecological Society of Climate: Lessons from Landscape-scale impacts in lowland rainforests with interference – a stable forest was 2006, causing extensive damage [online]: http://whc.unesco. Australia 15:283-296. Cyclones Larry (and Yasi). of Cyclone Larry on the contrasting management not attained. Thirty years later, similar to rainforest ecosystems across org/en/list/486 Geographical Research forests of northeast Australia histories in northeastern 4 Turton, S.M. and Stork, 50(1):15-30. including comparisons with Australia. Journal of Tropical observations were described after a a relatively narrow 100km strip 2 Webb, L.J. (1958). N.E. (2008). Impacts of previous cyclones impacting Ecology 15:883-894. ground-based survey examining the of coastal lowlands and adjacent Cyclones as an ecological tropical cyclones on forests of 6 Bureau of Meteorology 8 the region between 1858 immediate effects of uplands . Its centre was moving at factor in tropical lowland the Wet Tropics of Australia. [online]: www.bom.gov.au/ 11 Negron-Juarez, R.I., and 2006. Austral Ecology on the rainforests in the same region about 25km/h when it crossed the rainforest, . In: Stork, N.E. & Turton, S.M. cyclone/about/intensity.shtml Chambers, J.Q., Hurtt, 33:409-416. G.C., et al (2014). Remote of the Wet Tropics3. coast and tracked west over the Australian Journal of Botany (eds) Living in a Dynamic 7 Diamond, H.J., Lorrey, A.M. Sensing Assessment of 6:220-228. Tropical Forest Landscape pp and Renwick, J.A. (2013). 9 Bureau of Meteorology Atherton Tablelands. Forest Disturbance across Rainforests growing along the 47-58. A Southwest Pacific Tropical [online]: www.bom.gov.au/ 3 Unwin, G.L., Applegate, Complex Mountainous eastern flanks of mountains in the By comparison, with maximum Cyclone Climatology and cyclone/history/yasi.shtml G.B., Stocker, G.C. and 5 Turton, S.M. (2012). Terrain: The Pattern and Wet Tropics have been described as wind gusts near 285km/h, Cyclone Linkages to the El Niño – Nicholson, D.I. (1988). Initial Securing Landscape 10 Grove, S.J., Turton, S.M. Severity of Impacts of Tropical Southern Oscillation. Journal “hyper-disturbed” ecosystems with Yasi was a very large and very effects of tropical cyclone Resilience to Tropical and Siegenthaler, D.T. (2000). Cyclone Yasi on Australian of Climate 26:3-25. patches of damaged forest constantly intense borderline category 4/5 ‘Winifred’ on forests in north Cyclones in Australia’s Wet Mosaics of canopy openness Rainforests. Remote Sensing recovering from earlier extreme-wind system (about 700km across) when Queensland. Proceedings Tropics under a Changing 8 Turton, S.M. (2008). induced by tropical cyclones of Environment 6:5633-5649. 6 7 PARK IN F CUS Wooroonooran National Park

Dr Miriam Goosem Adjunct Principal Research Fellow, James Cook University, Cairns

Wooroonooran National Park ecosystems occurring in on small rainforest mammals. Clockwise from top: Wooroonooran accounts for almost one-tenth of Wooroonooran National Park, 47 are I worked in the tall rainforest that the 8940sq km Wet Tropics World considered to be either “endangered” is home to occurs along the basalt flows from the Queensland’s Heritage Area in . or “of concern”. volcanos down highest mountain, South of Cairns and east of The vegetation varies from tall the valleys towards Innisfail. I found Mount Bartle Frere; Innisfail, the park is mainly covered tropical lowland rainforest to low that the natural corridors formed by the Bartle Frere barsided skink is in tropical rainforest – much of which warm temperate montane vine-fern rainforest regrowth across the wide found nowhere else is classified as the most structurally thickets and includes patches of cleared swathes of the powerline in the world; the complex rainforest in Australia. drier eucalypt-dominated areas on clearing allowed movements by giant fern Angiopteris shallow soils or in the rain shadow of small rainforest mammals that were evecta is among It also encompasses the tallest the mountain peaks. This diversity of otherwise prevented by the tall grass. 190-plus different mountains in Queensland, Mt Bartle vegetation occurs due to the large fern species in the Frere and Mt Bellenden Ker, whose Populations of mammals were park. gradient in elevation (ranging from rainforest-clothed peaks form a highly divided when only grass grew in PHOTOS: ALAN 20m to 1622m at the summit of scenic backdrop to the extremely the clearing. Later, revegetation CARMICHAEL, Bartle Frere), together with a range of ANDERS ZIMNY biodiverse lowland rainforest below. plots across the clearing enabled & JO WRIGHT soil types from granite boulders and movements of small mammals, Four river systems arise in the shallow sandy soils to fertile basalt possums, skinks and frogs. national park – the Mulgrave, clays and the extremely high rainfall Russell, North Johnstone and South received across much of the park. We also found that the presence of were badly damaged by these the area of habitat that they roamed Two camping grounds are found the powerline clearing and, similarly, Johnstone – and there are numerous The many endemic animals that cyclones. Six months after Cyclone in search of their leafy food, they did at Henrietta Creek and away from associated waterfalls, deeply incised a wide highway, had an effect on Larry, I joined my colleagues not lose body condition and also the highway at the South Johnstone Wooroonooran National Park protects the microclimate of the forest. In valleys and scenic gorges. includes two reptiles, seven birds and Catherine Pohlman and Steve Turton continued to breed, showing that they River. Several walking tracks reach particular, it resulted in increased light in investigating the impacts on the may be resilient and adapted to such waterfalls and lookouts over the North five mammals, whose core habitat and ambient temperature levels, and Fauna and flora occurs in rainforest above 600m. forest microclimate in the sites occasional natural catastrophes. Johnstone gorge. The Mamu Tropical decreased humidity, near the forest previously studied for edge effects. Skywalk also overlooks the gorge from Similarly, although these periodic The mountains provide a high- There are 26 faunal species of edge. However, the distance these its elevated walkway and observation elevation refuge for many plant and conservation significance, including effects penetrated the forest was The patterns of vegetation damage natural catastrophes cause severe were spatially patchy with this tower, while providing insight into animal species. In fact two species nine endangered, five vulnerable and relatively short – 50m at the most. vegetation damage, a closed canopy plants used by the traditional owners. of skink (including the Bartle Frere damage influencing the understorey rainforest returns, although many trees 12 near threatened. These changes in microclimate microclimate, which became brighter, may not be as tall and vines may be Two long-distance walking tracks barsided skink) and one frog species Notable fauna includes the were reflected in alterations in both warmer, windier and drier in severely more common. have been constructed in different (the Bellenden Ker nursery frog) are endangered southern cassowary, flora and fauna near the forest edge. found nowhere else in the world than damaged areas. areas of the national park. In the Lumholtz’s tree-kangaroo, endemic north, the steep trail from Josephine above 1000m elevation on these rainforest ringtail possums – the The previous microclimate edge Visiting the park How the microclimate is effects associated with the human- Falls climbs up Mt Bartle Frere peaks. lemuroid, and green impacted by cyclones created clearings became less Wooroonooran National Park provides and continues on to the Atherton However, this is only a small part ringtails – and a group of five The rainforests of far north important due to the scattered many access points for the visiting Tablelands. Further south, the Misty of the diversity of species that have endangered stream-dwelling frogs. Queensland are also periodically patches of severe damage where public. These include (from north to Mountains Wilderness Trail climbs found this area an evolutionary and Rainforest birds, frogs, reptiles disturbed by natural events – all trees had either fallen or had their south): Walsh’s Pyramid trail to the more gradually from the lowlands to ecological refuge and are endemic to and mammals are highly diverse. cyclones that can be severe – and trunks snapped. peak; Goldsborough Valley camping the southern Atherton Tablelands. the area. Invertebrates are found in even area, bora ground and walking trails; Wooroonooran National Park is no The severe tropical cyclone also Across the park, areas with easy These comprise many primitive greater diversity. The Boulders area and Goldfield exception. In the past 11 years, greatly modified ringtail possum access are available as well as more (basal) flowering plant species and Track; and, further south, Josephine the Palmerston section of the park habitat by destroying the forest challenging trails to explore. monotypic genera (plant genus with Falls picnic area. Author’s experience has been damaged by two severe canopy, reducing structural complexity Wooroonooran’s conservation only one extant species). All seven My first personal encounter with cyclones – Cyclone Larry (category 4) of the forest and defoliating remaining A major access point occurs along values have been recognised with local tree ferns occur, including three Wooroonooran National Park was in in 2006 and Cyclone Yasi (category 5) trees. My colleague Robyn Wilson the , which World Heritage status and it provides found nowhere else. 1991, when I commenced research in 2011. and I found that although these traverses the park between Innisfail a quieter alternative to the busy tourist Of the 60 different regional on the impacts of a powerline clearing The areas where I did my research endemic species had to increase and the Atherton Tablelands. areas of Daintree National Park. 8 9 FEATURED WALK Misty Mountains Wilderness Trails

Matt Marsh and Liliana Williamson Tableland Adventure Guides, Atherton

For a tropical rainforest area like the our roles with Tableland Adventure Misty Mountains in Wooroonooran Location Guides (TAG). TAG has been on National Park (about an hour drive Traversing Wooroonooran, the adventure scene since 2007, south of Cairns), cyclones are just a and Tully Gorge national parks in an and offers half-day, full-day and part of life and it’s surprising how fast area bounded by Tully, Innisfail, Mena multi-day guided hikes, biking and Creek, Millaa Millaa and Ravenshoe. they begin to recover after one has kayak experiences on the Atherton swept through. Access Tablelands and Cassowary Coast. Fallen trees open the canopy, With four separate long-distance tracks The prevalence of high-energy starting a race to be the first to the (Koolmoon Creek, Cannabullen Creek, storms in the region poses the Cardwell Range and Gorrell) there are light among the next generation of various access points. Four-wheel question: Is an adventure holiday in trees in the understorey. drives are recommended for many an area affected by a tropical cyclone Meanwhile, as the fallen trees access roads and all are unsuitable for attractive or are there lingering caravans, motor homes or buses. decompose, with fungi going to work perceptions that such areas are they’re not ideal for less experienced as forest recyclers to slowly melt them Grade damaged and not worthy of visiting? bushwalkers on their own. Carrying into the rainforest floor and thereby Most tracks are intermediate to difficult. Recently returning to explore maps and navigation equipment, or enriching the soil with nutrients, they Generally not recommended for young Wooroonooran National Park after travelling with a guide, is wise. offer new deadwood as habitat. children, the elderly or inexperienced five years, we have been scouting for bushwalkers – especially alone. It’s worth keeping in mind that while If you live outside the tropics, you’d off-the-beaten-track gems to inspire some tracks are suitable only for be forgiven for thinking the recovery would-be visitors. Along the way, we hiking, others are shared tracks with efforts after cyclones would be a long and Far North Environment Centre have discovered that cyclone damage mountain biking permitted. is a distant memory in the landscape and slow process in this part of the (CAFNEC) had no problems running On the last day of our world. In fact, it is astounding that its 2012 Far North Queensland and the wide-ranging network of Misty Mountains Wilderness Trails have Clockwise from top: A rainforest creek in Wooroonooran National Park; ferns; a rest stop on reconnaissance journey, we traversed even in far-flung wilderness areas how Wilderness Bike Ride fundraiser the Gorrell Track; the North Johnston River two years after Cyclone Larry; the Mamu Tropical even more to offer the adventurous the Gorrell Track by mountain bike. quickly the trees that are down across involving 65 riders cycling right Skywalk. PHOTOS: SHIRLEY CASPER, MATT MARSH, LILIANA WILLIAMSON, QUEENSLAND GOVERNMENT spirit than anticipated. Best to be tackled in groups, this roads are cleared, infrastructure is through the heart of the park on the remote 25km track can be ridden reopened to the public and things first two days of the event. Travelling through this Wet Tropics biologically diverse and the slower Far more challenging, yet highly in either direction and is definitely return to normal. Having experienced a whirlwind bike World Heritage Area on foot and on you go, the more you see, smell and rewarding, is climbing Queensland’s a fun option for enthusiastic and As an example, only a year and romance on that particular eight-day mountain bike, three full days along hear – rainforest birds calling, reptiles highest mountain, Mt Bartle Frere, fairly skilled mountain bikers, with its a half after Cyclone Yasi (category ride, we now find ourselves back in the trails provides only a small taste of sunning themselves, mammals going which is also in Wooroonooran. technical creek crossings, challenging what is on offer. 5) swept through Wooroonooran North Queensland exploring some about their business, fungi and leaf We recommend the three-day yet satisfying climbs and gnarly, National Park in 2011, the Cairns of the region’s lesser known trails in The area is incredibly beautiful and litter, insects, fish in the crystal clear traverse from east to west, but it electrifying descents. creeks and views. is definitely not for the very unfit or Staying overnight at the South The Mamu Tropical Skywalk, borne inexperienced bushwalkers. campground and out of Cyclone Larry (2006) which With a network of short and having a refreshing swim in the created natural clearings that paved long tracks extending more than crystal-clear creek is a fantastic way the way for the route of the walkway, 130km from the coastal plain to the to complete the ride. is a really unique starting point to tablelands – including the Koolmoon gain an understanding of the lush Creek, Cannabullen Creek, Cardwell The authors have endeavoured to ensure rainforest of Wooroonooran National Range and Gorrell tracks – the Park, as well as its cultural history, that the information presented here is as Misty Mountains trails offer plenty of accurate as possible. However, they or both indigenous and pioneer. Located alternative options. Many are far less NPAQ do not accept responsibility for any in the Palmerston section of the park, demanding than summitting Bartle loss, injury or inconvenience sustained by any person guided by this article. about 30 minutes west of Innisfail Frere, but equally satisfying. on the Palmerston Highway, it also Keep an eye out for a new adventure offers a comfortable nature-based As the tracks are fairly remote offering in Wooroonooran National Park at experience for all. and can be indistinct in places, www.tablelandadventureguides.com.au

10 11 ECOSYSTEM THE NATIONAL PARK SPOTLIGHT EXPERIENCE Littoral rainforests and coastal vine thickets Personal reflection on why our parks must be valued

Dr Helen Murphy Denis McMullen Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organisation (CSIRO), Atherton Councillor, National Parks Association of Queensland (NPAQ)

Littoral rainforests and coastal vine Access tracks through littoral rainforest (above) and (below) severe impacts to littoral rainforest Binna Burra has been a favourite An example of the thickets of eastern Australia (hereafter caused by Cyclone Yasi at Tully Heads in 2011. PHOTOS: ANDREW FORD & DAN METCALFE place for my wife and I. We have incredible vistas to littoral forests) are a critically- great memories of bushwalking in be enjoyed at Binna Burra (top) and (left) endangered ecological community the majority of littoral forest occurs littoral forest is understanding exactly Lamington National Park, including eucalyptus forest with listed under the Environment in land classed as conservation area where it is. In the Wet Tropics the through walk from the Binna Burra grassy understorey. Protection and Biodiversity and natural environments (more than bioregion this is not as straightforward section to O’Reilly’s. PHOTOS: JEANNIE RICE Conservation Act 1999 (EPBC Act). 90 per cent), with a considerable as it might seem, as although the & NPAQ ARCHIVES There are also some less positive Coastal processes such as salt spray, amount within the national park estate EPBC listing advice describes memories resulting out of me ignoring tidal inundation and storm tides, salt- (more than 40 per cent). the broad characteristics of the track signs and finding myself laden on-shore winds and unstable community, there is considerable This is likely true for much of the committed to extending a hike by an and dynamic substrates derive this variation in floristic composition and Queensland east coast, as littoral extra 10km! distinct ecological community. forest has been largely removed structure. A reliance on regional My sons and daughters – and their Already highly fragmented and or become heavily fragmented in ecosystem mapping alone can lead families – live in inner , very subject to many landward pressures developed areas. to some littoral forests not being recognised, particularly on islands. much part of its latte-sipping culture. such as coastal development, weeds Littoral forest in national parks are overlooking the superb valley was a The Daves Creek Circuit, a 13km and feral animals, littoral forest in the Following cyclones, most of the So when I invited my 17-year-old striking introduction to the grandeur of return, was not on my list but Lachie generally subject to fewer human- grandson, Lachie, to with an tropics and subtropics of eastern induced threats and these threats are damage to littoral forest is in the form the national park. was keen to go there as a result of of uprooted and severely damaged offer of a three-day walking holiday in his reading from the internet. So, off Queensland is also very susceptible often managed. Lachie produced his list of walks to severe storms and cyclones. trees, as well as sand deposition or Lamington, I knew this would definitely we went at a good pace. He was and when we set off, he held the In the Wet Tropics, it is common for erosion. Occasionally littoral forest be a new experience, and a new fascinated by the Antarctic beeches Cyclones can bring storm surges map and was keen to lead the way. national park campground areas to be appears completely destroyed, challenge, for this urban dweller. The and their place in the forest, which in the form of both higher-than-usual I was happy to encourage him to set established in littoral forest because however in many affected areas offer included a base at Binna Burra introduced the concept of Gondwana high tides and destructive wave the pace, which, considering our shady beachfront locations with post-Yasi and also after Cyclone and to mitigate the cultural shock, I and tectonic plate movement. So we action, which causes beach erosion relatively open understorey and sand included a reference to their website age differences, could be seen as but also deposits vast volumes of Larry (2006) we have seen significant spent a lot of time walking and talking underfoot make for attractive and recruitment and regrowth. so he could see what he was in for! unwise. This leader function gave about the values of the forest. beach sands in other places. comfortable camping. him a positive feeling of ownership Littoral forests are naturally highly When Lachie flew in, he had Cyclone Yasi crossed Cardwell as a and engagement in the activity, We arrived back near Binna Burra A critical first step in managing downloaded the bushwalking and category 5 cyclone in 2011 and was dynamic and generally resilient to and Lachie produced his list of hiking information from the Binna however, which seems to have been considered to have created between extreme events; of course, managing walks before announcing that we still Burra site. He had also brought a significant element in the success of a one-in-1000-years and a one-in- existing pressures that undermine had time to do another walk as the appropriate walking clothes and was our time on the mountain. 3000-years event. the natural capacity of the vegetation Rainforest Track was only 30 minutes! to recover – such as weeds, feral eager to get going. Lachie threw himself into the walks, The impact on littoral forest in this Our next two days took us through animals and uncontrolled access – is The drive to the Lamington Plateau stretching out along the paths. He area was visually dramatic. However, a variety of walks, slowly extending critical for enhancing their resilience. and the long, winding road up the was fascinated by much of what he by bearing the brunt of the storm, our range. Lachie became more mountain gave us an opportunity to saw of the rainforest and picked up the coastal vegetation served a vital In some cases, restoration actions involved as time went on and enjoyed talk about where Lachie, who had quickly on its characteristics; very purpose in protecting other habitat. may be necessary to speed recovery the longer walks amid towering trees. and restore diversity where the natural just completed Year 12 exams, saw happy to stop and look at trees, The nights were very cold but this Littoral vegetation helps moderate capacity to recover is slow. himself going post-school. Once we particularly the grotesque “sculptures” could not deter his enthusiasm. the effects of waves, wind and arrived at the top of the mountain and created by the strangler figs. inundation associated with cyclones, The effect of this three days remains pulled into Binna Burra, though, we He learned about vines and lianas, protecting other vegetation, with us as a sense of closeness every The full report ‘Mapping to Underpin were immediately caught up in the and changes from rainforest to dry infrastructure and human communities Management of Tropical Littoral time we talk on the phone and the entrancing forest environment. eucalyptus forest as we moved lower from the most severe effects. Rainforest’ is online: distance from Brisbane to Melbourne http://bit.ly/tropical-littoral-rainforest We had an introductory stroll down from the crests into valleys. His seems to have diminished. Now, all In the Wet Tropics bioregion, where around and spent some time steeping enthusiasm increased as we went I have to worry about are the rest of Spatial layers produced by the project the Commonwealth Scientific and ourselves in the views from the high along and I was able to chat with him the grandchildren looking plaintive and Industrial Research Organisation are available at the CSIRO Data Portal (search for Littoral rainforest): ground across the gorge to the about changes in the structure of the each wanting to know when it will be (CSIRO) has done extensive surveys, https://data.csiro.au mountains beyond. Lunch at a table forest and vegetation. their turn! 12 13 WHAT’S NPAQ events RANGER OF NPAQ annual raffle draw Will you be the winner of the major N prize in the National Park Association of THE MONTH Queensland’s annual raffle? The draw is taking place at the Green Heart Fair, Insights into the diverse backgrounds and day-to-day The track to be followed winds along the Chermside, on Sunday, June 4 – on the NPAQ activities north bank of Wolston Creek to its junction eve of World Environment Day. with Brisbane River. This is a well vegetated activities of Queensland’s park rangers If you are yet to buy your tickets, go online F Day walk at Mt Mee area with a variety of habitats, last visited by an NPAQ birding group in March 2015 to www.npaq.org.au/annualraffle2017 or get Leo Gabey Somerset Trail (13km) in D’Aguilar National when 42 species were sighted despite them at the fair in 7th Brigade Park. Queensland Parks & Wildlife Service (QPWS) Park, Brisbane (northern section) – Saturday, unfavourable weather conditions. June 3, meeting 8.30am at The Gantry. Grade: Intermediate. Cost: $5. Æ Birding extended activity Leo Gabey is a park ranger based at every day is different – weeds, track Leader: Frank Freeman (07 3824 3954, October 9-13 in Armidale, NSW. Airlie Beach. His patch includes the maintenance, camp site maintenance 0427 655 514 or [email protected]). Grade: Easy (some areas may be open Directions: From Brisbane, drive through tourism mecca of the Whitsundays and chatting to tourists. As a ranger bushland). Cost: $20. Leader: Ian Petrie or Samford to Dayboro. From and Whitehaven Beach, famous for you’re in the limelight, you’ve got Peacock (0416 943 280, 3359 0318 or Dayboro, head towards Mt Mee, turning left its white silica sands but impacted by to be ready with a friendly smile to [email protected]). into Sellin Rd to The Gantry. What to bring: Cyclone Debbie. answer questions and give advice. I Morning tea and lunch, at least 2L of water, This year’s Extended Bird Outing will centre actually look forward to Mondays ... How long have you worked in warm jacket, rain coat, torch. on Armidale, running from October 9-13 Prizes include a four-day exploration of we go to Whitehaven Beach every with arrival on October 8, accommodation national parks? About halfway through the walk, there is the spectacular Yuraygir Coastal Walk in in a caravan park close to town and Monday morning! a lookout providing great views west to northern NSW (pictured), a one-night stay at I started with QPWS back in 2012 departure on October 14. Cabins, powered Somerset Dam and the headwaters of Lake Binna Burra Lodge and two nights at Allura as part of a program employing How did Cyclone Debbie affect and unpowered caravan and tent sites are Wivenhoe to enjoy over morning tea. Stradbroke Resort. Indigenous rangers to work on our parks in your region? available. Early bookings are recommended country. The Whitsundays is my It is expected birds will be sighted although, due to an expected heavy tourist season. Additional prizes include a family pass to Vegetation on the main islands and at this time of the year, reptiles may be in mother’s country, Ngaro country. coral on the surrounding reefs were Full-day and half-day outings will be Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary including a river hibernation. There are a couple of hills, so a cruise there and back with Mirimar Cruises, I jumped at this job as it gave me hit hard. Leaves were stripped from moderate degree of fitness is required. included, with car pooling to keep costs to a two adult passes to Australia Zoo, one-year trees and we lost a lot of sand from minimum for all participants. the chance to get more involved with It is planned to have lunch back at The subscriptions to Great Walks magazine and Whitehaven Beach, along with most my culture, to get out on the ocean, Gantry, a leftover relic of the area’s timber one-year subscriptions to Wild magazine. to visit sacred sites and keep an of our camping area and signs. industry. Barbecues are available for those eye out for tourism impacts on our Walking tracks were covered in trees who prefer a hot lunch. Toilets are available Vale NPAQ annual general meeting country. Before becoming a ranger, I and branches. But almost immediately at The Gantry, but there is no drinking water The National Park Association of was a boilermaker in the Proserpine the birds started coming back to the so ensure you bring adequate supplies. Our sincere condolences to the families QPWS ranger Leo Gabey at Tongue Point and friends of National Parks Association Queensland will hold its AGM on Sugar Mill for about 16 years. on Whitsunday Island during the ongoing islands – that’s a good sign. Ï Vegetation management of Queensland life member Barry Dean, Wednesday, September 20. clean-up that followed Cyclone Debbie and Which parks have you worked in? (top) Whitehaven Beach before it was hit by What was involved in the Saturday, June 24, meeting at Jollys who passed away on April 8. The venue and starting time is still to be post-cyclone clean-up? Lookout carpark in D’Aguilar National Park, I’ve worked on many of the the tropical storm. Barry joined NPAQ in 1951. He loved confirmed. More information will be included Brisbane. Grade: Various. Cost: Free. Whitsunday and Lindeman islands, as PHOTOS: QUEENSLAND GOVERNMENT Park rangers from Cooktown to Fraser Australia’s national parks and the natural in the August - September 2017 issue of & MUZ WILLSON Leader: Angus McElnea (0429 854 446 or world in general. Protected and also Neck of the Woods. well as the Brampton, Cumberland, Island came to help us in the first few [email protected]). Smith and Newry island groups off Can you describe your favourite weeks. We quickly moved bulldozers national parks experience? over to Whitehaven to push the sand Get your hands dirty, spending a couple Mackay. The Whitsundays alone of hours assisting with lantana control and includes 74 islands so we have our I love walking Whitsunday Peak on back to restore the beach and protect revegetation work. hands full in this region! Whitsunday Island. You walk through the vegetation, and we tidied up so it different kinds of vegetation on the was open for visitors again in record Æ Birding in Brisbane What has been your most time. We spent long, hard days on memorable moment? way to the top. It’s the highest point Sunday, June 25, at Wolston Creek in the Whitsundays and you have the chainsaws – it took one crew Bushland Reserve, Riverhills – meeting Annual fundraising raffle – drawn June 4 We had just completed some safety 360-degree views over all the islands three weeks to clear the Whitsunday 7.30am at the end of Sumners Rd (UBD 196 drills on our vessel Tamoya when – beautiful scenery that you can’t see Peak track. About two months after M12) to arrange car shuttle to start of walk we saw a visitor being swept away from a boat at sea level! the cyclone, most sites are open in Tomkins Rd (UBD 197 D13), which has AMAZING PRIZES limited parking. from her boat by the strong current. I again, but we’ll still be cleaning up for Buy tickets online: www.npaq.org.au/annualraffle2017 deployed our tender. What is the best part about the next four or five months. Grade: Easy. Cost: $5. Leader: Geraldine working in a national park? She was fighting against the current Buchanan (3349 1109). What to bring: $5 a ticket / $10 for 3 / $30 for a book of 15 Binoculars, hat, sunscreen, insect repellent, and was pretty distressed by the time Working as part of a team is the best NPAQ thanks Leo for taking time to water, chair, morning tea and lunch. we rescued her. It was lucky we were part of the job for me. We all pitch in answer our questions and we appreciate there and had just practised the same to help each other; we’re a well-tuned the work all QPWS rangers undertake in VISIT OUR WEBSITE thing in our safety drill! team. We work in a lovely place and protecting Queensland’s national parks. FOR ACTIVITY REGISTRATIONS www.npaq.org.au/events

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