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Nova Scotia NB &PEI ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 278 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy. OUR READERS Caroline Sieg Thanks to everyone who shared their tips Many thanks to the travelers who used with me and for the friendly conversations the last edition and wrote to us with at all the local watering holes, where (thank- helpful hints, useful advice and inter- fully) few things change. esting anecdotes: Amy Goben, Carmen Stanley, Chad Stewart, David Drake, Gisela Broderick, Helen Tyson, Herman Goellnitz, Karla Zimmerman Lynette Olfert, Meike Ferrari, Michael Duffey, Thanks to St John’s gurus Bryan Curtis, Nigel Rayner, Rob McCleave, Sarah Hayter, Sarah Mathieson and their compadres. Huge Sebastian Cool, Semin Poonja, Sheree and gratitude to Lisa Beran for woman’ing the Carl Lovell, Tarini Casinader and Terrie wheel once again. Kudos to fellow scribes Phillips. Celeste and Caroline for awesome work. Thanks most to Eric Markowitz, the world’s best partner for life. AUTHOR THANKS Celeste Brash ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Thanks to Andrea Young at Destination Hali- Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, fax and Isabel MacDougall with PEI Tourism, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat- to the good folks of Digby Backpackers, ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Bear on the River and Kiwi Kaboodle, John Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Tattrie, everyone at Authentic Seacoast in Sciences, 11, 163344. Guysburough, Coastal Adventures Sea Kay- aking, Kate Prest and Doug in Pictou, Isaac Cover photograph: Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse, in Mabou, Sandra in Creignish, Beartown Nova Scotia, Beverley Lu/Alamy. Baskets, Juana in North Sydney and Brian and Al in Wolfville. I wish I could work with Karla Zimmerman on every book. Biggest thanks as always to my family. 279 THIS BOOK Commissioning Editor Assisting Editor Kristin Odijk This 3rd edition of Lonely Korina Miller Assisting Book Designer Planet’s Nova Scotia, Coordinating Editors Kate Virginia Moreno New Brunswick & Prince Mathews, Amanda Williamson Cover & Internal Image Edward Island was Senior Cartographer Mark Research Naomi Parker commissioned in Lonely BEHIND THE SCENES Planet’s Oakland office, Griffiths Thanks to Samantha Forge, and produced by the Book Designer Katherine Briohny Hooper, Indra following: Marsh Kilfoyle, Trent Paton, Tracy Whitmey ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 280 Index A Montgomery, Lucy Maud Birchtown 65 Bouctouche 137-8 Aboriginal culture Antigonish 86 Bouctouche 137 Brackley Beach 159-60 art 237-8 aquariums Cape Breton Highlands Bras d’Or Lake 94-5 music 233 Aquarium & Museum National Park 90 breweries Aboriginal people, see Center 141 Confederation Trail 151 Alexander Keith’s Nova Mi’kmaq, Maliseet Atlantic Salmon Fundy National Park 131 Scotia Brewery 45 Acadian Peninsula 141 Interpretive Centre 117 Gros Morne National Big Tide Brewing Acadian people 89, 167 Bonne Bay Marine Station Park 203 Company 128 201 culture 20 Halifax 49 Garrison Brewing Fisheries Museum of the Company 53 festivals 21-2, 68, 141 Kouchibouguac National Atlantic 60 Park 138 Pump House 135 food 67, 135, 164 Fundy Discovery Aquarium Lunenburg 60 Quidi Vidi Brewery 175 historic sites 72, 75-6, 137, 116 141, 146, 160-61 Mahone Bay 59 St John’s 175 Arctic foxes 248 history 41, 66, 68, 104, Miramichi River Valley Brimstone Head 198 area codes 17 167, 227, 228-30 Mt Stewart 157 budget 17 art 237-40 music 10, 69, 90, 234-5 Murray River 154 Burin Peninsula 191-2 festivals 240 restaurants 69, 90, 138 North Rustico bus travel 267, 269 museums 238 theater 68, 137 Petit Témis Interprovincial business hours 17, 261 art galleries, see museums tours 68 Linear Park 114 & galleries accommodations 254-6, see Prince Edward Island 151 ATMs 260 C also individual locations St Peter’s 157 Avalon Peninsula 184-8 Cabot, John 171, 172, 190, language 273-4 228 activities 28-33, 256, see birds 249, see also Cabot Trail 88-94 individual species also individual activities, B Campbellton 142 individual locations bird-watching 30-31 bagpipes 234, 11 camping 255 African Nova Scotians, see bald eagles 249 Amherst Point Migratory also Black Loyalists Bird Sanctuary 82 Campobello Island 120-21 Barrington 66 culture 48, 235-6 Antigonish Landing 86 canoeing 20, 28, 35, 251, Basin Head Provincial 256 see also kayaking history 41, 47, 65 Avalon Peninsula 184-5 Park 156 Avalon Wilderness air travel 266-7, 268 Bay of Fundy 9, 115, 8 Digby Neck 69 Reserve 185 airlines 267 Bear River 71 Grand Manan Island 122 Chiputneticook Lakes 114 airports 266-7 bears 248 Kouchibouguac National Corner Brook Park 138 Alma 132 Cape Chignecto Provincial Kejimkujik National Amherst 82 Park 82 Mavilette Beach 67 Park 63 amusement parks Kouchibouguac National Saint John 126 Kouchibouguac National Avonlea Village 163 Park 138 Tatamagouche 83 Park 138 Magnetic Hill 133 Mt Carleton Provincial Taylor Head Provincial Miramichi River Valley 140 animals 248, see also Park 112 Park 100 Mt Carleton Provincial individual species Terra Nova National Witless Bay Ecological Park 112 Annapolis Royal 71-3 Park 195 Reserve 184 Saint John 127 Annapolis Valley 67-77 beer 243, see also breweries Black Loyalists 65, 229, 235 Tobique 112 Anne of Green Gables 14, Bell, Alexander Graham 94 boat travel 269, see also Canso 99-100 canoeing, ferry travel, 158, 163, 14, 36, see also Beothuk 226-7 kayaking Cape Breton Highlands bicycle travel, see bicycling National Park 12, 90-1, 13 Bonavista 190-91 bicycling 31, 268, 271, see Cape Breton Island 87-98 books 224 Map Pages 000 also mountain biking Cape Chignecto Provincial border crossings 267 Photo Pages 000 Antigonish 86 Park 81-2 281 Cape d’Or 81 dinosaurs 80, 81, 248 cultural 50, 59, 68, 149, reserves Cape Enrage 132 disabilities, travelers 193, 198 Annapolis Royal Historic Cape George 86-7 with 263 film 50, 107 Gardens 72 Cape Jourimain 136-7 distilleries 18, 155, see also folk 197, 198 CA Pippy Park 176 Cape Shore 187-8 whiskey food 150, 244 Halifax Public Gardens 45 Cape Spear 183-4 Glenora Inn & Distillery history 63 Kingsbrae Garden 117 18, 88 INDEX Cape St Mary 67 Irish 23, 87, 139, 198 New Brunswick Botanical Ironworks Distillery 60 car hire 270 jazz 107 Garden 114 Myriad View Distillery 155 car travel 267, 269-71, see music 50, 61, 75, 100, gay travelers 257-8 also scenic drives Prince Edward Distillery 149, 156, 165, 177, 236 geology 80, 173, 200, 247-8 C- 18, 155 Caraquet 141-2 sports 59, 177 Georgetown 156 H dog sledding 33 caribou 248 theater 68, 149, 203 Glace Bay 97 drinks 243-6, see also wine 23, 243 golf 70, 92, 93, 99, 120, 176 caribou moss 250 breweries, distilleries, Cartier, Jacques 228 wineries films 224 Grand Banks 249 Cavendish 163-8 beer 243 fish 249 Grand Falls 114-15 Ceilidh Trail 87-8 customs regulations 256 fisheries 60 Grand Falls-Windsor 199 ceilidhs 22, 234 language 274-6 Fisherman’s Cove 56 Grand Manan Island 14, 122-4, 15 cell phones 16, 262 vodka 18 fishing 31-2, 68 Grand Pré 75-6 Celtic Colours 23 whiskey 18, 193, 243 Corner Brook 208 Green Gables, see Anne Change Islands 198-9 wine 18, 23, 76-7, 176, Labrador 220 of Green Gables, Charlottetown 147-53, 148 243 Miramichi River Valley 140 Montgomery, Lucy Chester 58 driver’s licenses 269 Maud Pinware River 216 children, travel with 34-6, driving, see car travel, Greenwich 157 270 scenic drives South Coast Outports 214 Gros Morne National Park amusement parks drugs 259-60 200-4 Five Islands 79 133, 163 Guysborough 99 Halifax 51 Florenceville 110-11 St John’s 177 E Fogo Island 198-9 East Point 157 Chiputneticook Lakes 114 food 241-6 H economy 224-5 climate 16, 21-3, see also Acadian 67, 135, 164 Halifax 10, 44-55, 46-7, 10 individual regions Economy 79 festivals 150, 244 accommodations 50-1 cod 249, 250-1 Edmundston 114-15 language 274-5 activities 49 coffee 244 electricity 257 lobster suppers 12, 22, children, travel with 51 colonization 228-9 Elliston 191 244, 12 cycling 49 common murres 249 embassies 257 Newfoundland dishes drinking 52-3 Conception Bay 186-7 emergencies 17 180 entertainment 53-4 Confederation Trail 151 language 276 oysters 165 food 51-2 consulates 257 employment 225 recipes 242 gay & lesbian travelers 53 cookery course 164 environment 247-52 seafood 18, 241-2 highlights 49 environmental hazards 259 specialities 244 Corner Brook 208-11, 209 hiking 49 environmental issues 225, Fort Beauséjour National covered bridges 110, 129- shopping 54 250-2 Historic Site 136 30, 133-4 tourist information 54 Eriksson, Leif 18, 171, 205, fossils 80, 82, 248 credit cards 260 tours 49 206, 227 foxes 248 Cremo, Lee 233 travel to/from 55-7 events 21-3, see also fracking 225, 252 culture
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