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Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS Caroline Sieg Thanks to everyone who shared their tips Many thanks to the travelers who used with me and for the friendly conversations the last edition and wrote to us with at all the local watering holes, where (thank- helpful hints, useful advice and inter- fully) few things change. esting anecdotes: Amy Goben, Carmen Stanley, Chad Stewart, David Drake, Gisela Broderick, Helen Tyson, Herman Goellnitz, Karla Zimmerman Lynette Olfert, Meike Ferrari, Michael Duffey, Thanks to St John’s gurus Bryan Curtis, Nigel Rayner, Rob McCleave, Sarah Hayter, Sarah Mathieson and their compadres. Huge Sebastian Cool, Semin Poonja, Sheree and gratitude to Lisa Beran for woman’ing the Carl Lovell, Tarini Casinader and Terrie wheel once again. Kudos to fellow scribes Phillips. Celeste and Caroline for awesome work. Thanks most to Eric Markowitz, the world’s best partner for life. AUTHOR THANKS Celeste Brash ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Thanks to Andrea Young at Destination Hali- Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, fax and Isabel MacDougall with PEI Tourism, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat- to the good folks of Digby Backpackers, ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Bear on the River and Kiwi Kaboodle, John Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Tattrie, everyone at Authentic Seacoast in Sciences, 11, 163344. Guysburough, Coastal Adventures Sea Kay- aking, Kate Prest and Doug in Pictou, Isaac Cover photograph: Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse, in Mabou, Sandra in Creignish, Beartown Nova Scotia, Beverley Lu/Alamy. Baskets, Juana in North Sydney and Brian and Al in Wolfville. I wish I could work with Karla Zimmerman on every book. Biggest

thanks as always to my family. 279

THIS BOOK Commissioning Editor Assisting Editor Kristin Odijk This 3rd edition of Lonely Korina Miller Assisting Book Designer Planet’s Nova Scotia, Coordinating Editors Kate Virginia Moreno New Brunswick & Prince Mathews, Amanda Williamson Cover & Internal Image Edward Island was Senior Cartographer Mark Research Naomi Parker commissioned in Lonely SCENES THE BEHIND Planet’s Oakland office, Griffiths Thanks to Samantha Forge, and produced by the Book Designer Katherine Briohny Hooper, Indra following: Marsh Kilfoyle, Trent Paton, Tracy Whitmey ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 280

Index

A Montgomery, Lucy Maud Birchtown 65 Bouctouche 137-8 Aboriginal culture Antigonish 86 Bouctouche 137 Brackley Beach 159-60 art 237-8 aquariums Cape Breton Highlands Bras d’Or Lake 94-5 music 233 Aquarium & Museum National Park 90 breweries Aboriginal people, see Center 141 Confederation Trail 151 Alexander Keith’s Nova Mi’kmaq, Maliseet Atlantic Salmon Fundy National Park 131 Scotia Brewery 45 Acadian Peninsula 141 Interpretive Centre 117 Gros Morne National Big Tide Brewing Acadian people 89, 167 Bonne Bay Marine Station Park 203 Company 128 201 culture 20 Halifax 49 Garrison Brewing Fisheries Museum of the Company 53 festivals 21-2, 68, 141 Kouchibouguac National Atlantic 60 Park 138 Pump House 135 food 67, 135, 164 Fundy Discovery Aquarium Lunenburg 60 Quidi Vidi Brewery 175 historic sites 72, 75-6, 137, 116 141, 146, 160-61 Mahone Bay 59 St John’s 175 Arctic foxes 248 history 41, 66, 68, 104, Miramichi River Valley Brimstone Head 198 area codes 17 167, 227, 228-30 Mt Stewart 157 budget 17 art 237-40 music 10, 69, 90, 234-5 Murray River 154 Burin Peninsula 191-2 festivals 240 restaurants 69, 90, 138 North Rustico bus travel 267, 269 museums 238 theater 68, 137 Petit Témis Interprovincial business hours 17, 261 art galleries, see museums tours 68 Linear Park 114 & galleries accommodations 254-6, see Prince Edward Island 151 ATMs 260 C also individual locations St Peter’s 157 Avalon Peninsula 184-8 Cabot, John 171, 172, 190, language 273-4 228 activities 28-33, 256, see birds 249, see also Cabot Trail 88-94 individual species also individual activities, B Campbellton 142 individual locations bird-watching 30-31 bagpipes 234, 11 camping 255 African Nova Scotians, see bald eagles 249 Amherst Point Migratory also Black Loyalists Bird Sanctuary 82 Campobello Island 120-21 Barrington 66 culture 48, 235-6 Antigonish Landing 86 canoeing 20, 28, 35, 251, Basin Head Provincial 256 see also kayaking history 41, 47, 65 Avalon Peninsula 184-5 Park 156 Avalon Wilderness air travel 266-7, 268 Bay of Fundy 9, 115, 8 Digby Neck 69 Reserve 185 airlines 267 Bear River 71 Grand Manan Island 122 Chiputneticook Lakes 114 airports 266-7 bears 248 Kouchibouguac National Corner Brook Park 138 Alma 132 Cape Chignecto Provincial Kejimkujik National Amherst 82 Park 82 Mavilette Beach 67 Park 63 amusement parks Kouchibouguac National Saint John 126 Kouchibouguac National Avonlea Village 163 Park 138 Tatamagouche 83 Park 138 Magnetic Hill 133 Mt Carleton Provincial Taylor Head Provincial Miramichi River Valley 140 animals 248, see also Park 112 Park 100 Mt Carleton Provincial individual species Terra Nova National Witless Bay Ecological Park 112 Annapolis Royal 71-3 Park 195 Reserve 184 Saint John 127 Annapolis Valley 67-77 beer 243, see also breweries Black Loyalists 65, 229, 235 Tobique 112 Anne of Green Gables 14, Bell, Alexander Graham 94 boat travel 269, see also Canso 99-100 canoeing, ferry travel, 158, 163, 14, 36, see also Beothuk 226-7 kayaking Cape Breton Highlands bicycle travel, see bicycling National Park 12, 90-1, 13 Bonavista 190-91 bicycling 31, 268, 271, see Cape Breton Island 87-98 books 224 Map Pages 000 also mountain biking Cape Chignecto Provincial border crossings 267 Photo Pages 000 Antigonish 86 Park 81-2 281 Cape d’Or 81 dinosaurs 80, 81, 248 cultural 50, 59, 68, 149, reserves Cape Enrage 132 disabilities, travelers 193, 198 Annapolis Royal Historic Cape George 86-7 with 263 film 50, 107 Gardens 72 Cape Jourimain 136-7 distilleries 18, 155, see also folk 197, 198 CA Pippy Park 176 Cape Shore 187-8 whiskey food 150, 244 Halifax Public Gardens 45 Cape Spear 183-4 Glenora Inn & Distillery history 63 Kingsbrae Garden 117

18, 88 INDEX Cape St Mary 67 Irish 23, 87, 139, 198 New Brunswick Botanical Ironworks Distillery 60 car hire 270 jazz 107 Garden 114 Myriad View Distillery 155 car travel 267, 269-71, see music 50, 61, 75, 100, gay travelers 257-8

-also scenic drives Prince Edward Distillery 149, 156, 165, 177, 236 geology 80, 173, 200, 247-8  C 18, 155 Caraquet 141-2 sports 59, 177 Georgetown 156  H dog sledding 33 caribou 248 theater 68, 149, 203 Glace Bay 97 drinks 243-6, see also wine 23, 243 golf 70, 92, 93, 99, 120, 176 caribou moss 250 breweries, distilleries, Cartier, Jacques 228 wineries films 224 Grand Banks 249 Cavendish 163-8 beer 243 fish 249 Grand Falls 114-15 Ceilidh Trail 87-8 customs regulations 256 fisheries 60 Grand Falls-Windsor 199 ceilidhs 22, 234 language 274-6 Fisherman’s Cove 56 Grand Manan Island 14, 122-4, 15 cell phones 16, 262 vodka 18 fishing 31-2, 68 Grand Pré 75-6 Celtic Colours 23 whiskey 18, 193, 243 Corner Brook 208 Green Gables, see Anne Change Islands 198-9 wine 18, 23, 76-7, 176, Labrador 220 of Green Gables, Charlottetown 147-53, 148 243 Miramichi River Valley 140 Montgomery, Lucy Chester 58 driver’s licenses 269 Maud Pinware River 216 children, travel with 34-6, driving, see car travel, Greenwich 157 270 scenic drives South Coast Outports 214 Gros Morne National Park amusement parks drugs 259-60 200-4 Five Islands 79 133, 163 Guysborough 99 Halifax 51 Florenceville 110-11 St John’s 177 E Fogo Island 198-9 East Point 157 Chiputneticook Lakes 114 food 241-6 H economy 224-5 climate 16, 21-3, see also Acadian 67, 135, 164 Halifax 10, 44-55, 46-7, 10 individual regions Economy 79 festivals 150, 244 accommodations 50-1 cod 249, 250-1 Edmundston 114-15 language 274-5 activities 49 coffee 244 electricity 257 lobster suppers 12, 22, children, travel with 51 colonization 228-9 Elliston 191 244, 12 cycling 49 common murres 249 embassies 257 Newfoundland dishes drinking 52-3 Conception Bay 186-7 emergencies 17 180 entertainment 53-4 Confederation Trail 151 language 276 oysters 165 food 51-2 consulates 257 employment 225 recipes 242 gay & lesbian travelers 53 cookery course 164 environment 247-52 seafood 18, 241-2 highlights 49 environmental hazards 259 specialities 244 Corner Brook 208-11, 209 hiking 49 environmental issues 225, Fort Beauséjour National covered bridges 110, 129- shopping 54 250-2 Historic Site 136 30, 133-4 tourist information 54 Eriksson, Leif 18, 171, 205, fossils 80, 82, 248 credit cards 260 tours 49 206, 227 foxes 248 Cremo, Lee 233 travel to/from 55-7 events 21-3, see also fracking 225, 252 culture 224-5 festivals, individual travel within 55 Fredericton 105-10, currency 16 events 106 Hartland 110 French 273-7 customs 246 exchange rates 17 health 258-9 customs regulations 256 French Shore 67-77, 207 heath 250 cycling, see bicycling Fundy Isles 119-24 hiking 19, 30, 251 F Fundy National Park 130-1 Antigonish Landing 86 farmers markets, see Fundy Trail Parkway 132 Burin Peninsula 192 D markets Dalvay by the Sea 159 ferry travel 267-9 Canso 99-100 dangers, see safety festivals 21-3 G Cape Breton Highlands National Park 90 Dartmouth 55-6 Acadian 21-2, 68, 141 galleries, see museums & galleries Cape Chignecto arts 50, 61, 107, 177, Deer Island 119-20 Provincial Park 81-2 203, 240 Gander 196 Deer Lake 200 Delap’s Cove Wilderness beer 83 gannets 249 Digby 70-1 Trail 72 blues 107 gardens, see also national Digby Neck 69-70 & provincial parks, Economy 79 carnivals 177 282 Elliston 191 198, 206, 207, 13 Kejimkujik National Park Swallowtail Lighthouse Five Islands 79 immigration 266 251, 63-4 122 Fundy National Park 131 immunizations 258 Kennebecasis River Valley West Point 165 Grand Hermine Park 220 insects 249-50 130 Yarmouth Light 66 Grand Manan Island 123 insurance Kensington 165 live music 20, see also Gros Morne National car 270 King’s Landing Historical music

INDEX INDEX Settlement 110 Park 201-2 health 258 Acadian 69, 90 Halifax 49 kitchen parties 23, 150, Halifax 53 travel 259 234-5, see also ceilidhs International Irish 97, 152-3, 181 internet access 259 kite-surfing 32 H- Appalachian Trail 211 St John’s 181  internet resources 17 Kouchibouguac National M Irving Nature Park 126 venues 236  health 258 Park 138-9, 251 Kaumajet Mountains 219 Irish heritage Liverpool 62-3 Kejimkujik National festivals 23, 87, 139, 198 lobster suppers 12, 22, Park 63 244, history 125 L 12 Kouchibouguac National Labrador 38, 215-21, Louisbourg 97-8 legends 139 217 Park 138 climate 169, 171 Lunenburg 60-2, 61 Mabou 88 music 87, 97, 152-3, 181, 233-4 fast facts 215 lynx 248 Meat Cove 92 itineraries 24-7 food 180 Mt Carleton Provincial highlights 170 Park 112-13 M history 171 New River Provincial Machias Seal Island 123 J language 171 Park 119 Joe, Rita 233 Mahone Bay 58-60 planning 171 Partridge Island 80 Joggins 82 Maitland 77-8 travel seasons 169 Pollett’s Cove 91 Maliseet, see also travel to/from 171-2 Sambro 56 Aboriginal culture wildlife 171 Shelburne 65 K art 238 kayaking 20, 28,29, 251, Labrador Straits 215-18 history 104, 226-7 Taylor Head Provincial 256 see also canoeing Park 100 land disputes 123 Malpeque 165 Alma 132 Terra Nova National languages 16, 273-7 maps 260 Cape Chignecto Park 195 L’Anse aux Meadows 205-6 markets 243 Provincial Park 82 Trinity 189 legal matters 259-60 Annapolis Royal 73 Cartwright 218 historic sites 18 Lennox Island 168 Charlottetown 151 Fredericton 107 history 226-32 lesbian travelers 257-8 Fogo Island 198 Fundy Isles 119 Acadian people 41, 66, Lewis, Maud 45, 237 Fredericton 108 Grand Manan Island 123 68, 104, 167, 227, Lighthouse Route 57-8 Grand Manan Island 124 Gros Morne National 228-30 lighthouses 18-19, 35 Park 202-3 Halifax 54 Black Loyalists 65, Cape Bonavista Hopewell Rocks 133 Kingston 130 229, 235 Lighthouse 190 Kejimkujik National Moncton 135 Irish heritage 125 Cape George Point Park 63 Saint John 127 Scottish heritage 94 Lighthouse 86 Kouchibouguac National Mary’s Point 132 vikings 206 Cape Ray Lighthouse Park 138 measures 264 hitchhiking 271 213 Lunenburg 60 medical services 259 hockey 33, 224, see also Cape Spear 183 Mahone Bay 59 pond hockey Cape St Lawrence Meteghan 67 Malpeque 165 holidays 261-2 Lighthouse 92 Mi’kmaq, see also Miramichi River Valley 140 Aboriginal culture Hopewell Rocks 132-3 East Point Lighthouse North Rustico 162 art 238 House of Green Gables see 157 Anne of Green Gables, Point Joli Migratory Bird East Quoddy Head historic sites 140 Montgomery, Lucy Maud Sanctuary 64 Lighthouse 121 history 41, 226-7 Hynes, Ron 234 St Andrew’s by-the- Long Point Lighthouse legends 131 Sea 117 196-7 Lennox Island 168 St John’s 177 Panmure Island 154-5 music 233 I St Martins 129 Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse Miquelon 192-5 ice skating 33, 50 St Mary’s Bay 68 9, 57, 9 Miramichi 139-40 Iceberg Alley 13, 21, 197, Tangier 101 Point Amour Lighthouse Miramichi River Valley 207, 13 Terra Nova National 216 140-1 icebergs 176, 184, 196-7, Park 195 Point Prim 154 mobile phones 16, 262 Trinity 189 Point Riche Lighthouse Moncton 133-6, 134 204 Victoria 158 money 16, 17, 257, 260-1 Map Pages 000 Rose Blanche Lighthouse Witless Bay Ecological money pit 59 Photo Pages 000 Reserve 184-5 213 Montague 155-6 283 Montgomery, Lucy Maud Great Hall of the Clans Queen’s County Museum Herring Cove Provincial 158, 162-3, 164, see Museum 93 63 Park 121 also Anne of Green Green Park Shipbuilding Railway Heritage Centre Kejimkujik National Park Gables Museum & Historic 211 63-4 moose 77, 112, 121, 129, 138, Yeo House 167 Randall House Museum 74 Kouchibouguac National 171, 184, 185, 195, 248 Grenfell Museum 207 Rooms 173 Park 138-9 motorcycle travel 267, Hank Snow Home Town Rossignol Cultural La Manche Provincial INDEX 269-71 Museum 63 Centre 62-3 Park 185 Mt Carleton Provincial Park Highland Village Museum Ross-Thomson House 65 Mealy Mountains 112-14 94 National Park Reserve

-Saint John Jewish  M Mt Stewart 157-8 Historic Ferryland Historical Museum 125 218 N  mountain biking 31, 251, Museum 185 Sardine Museum 122 Mt Carleton Provincial see also bicycling Park 112-14 Historical Museum of Shelburne County Cape Breton Highlands Tracadie 141 Museum 65 New River Provincial National Park 90 Park 119 Inverness Miners’ Trinity Museum 189 Fundy National Park 131 Museum 88 Point Pleasant Park 48 Twillingate Museum 196 Wentworth 83 Iron Ore Mine & Museum Prince Edward Island Wallace Museum 82 Murray River 154 183 National Park 158-9, Island Museum 69 Whitman House Museum 160-61 museums & galleries 238 99 Acadian Museum 167 Labrador Interpretation Roosevelt Campobello Centre 220 Yarmouth County International Park 121 Admiral Digby Museum 70 Museum 67 Smuggler’s Cove Africville Heritage Trust L’Arche Museum 193 York Sunbury Historical Provincial Park 67 Museum 47 Les Trois Pignons 89 Museum 105 Sugarloaf Provincial Alexander Graham Bell Lighthouse Museum 158 music 10, 20, 233-6, see Park 142 National Historic Loggers’ Life Provincial also live music Site 94 Museum 199 Taylor Head Provincial African influences 235-6 Park 100-1 Atlantic Salmon Museum Lordly House Museum 58 ceilidhs 22, 234 Terra Nova National Park 140 Mahone Bay Settlers’ festivals 50, 61, 75, 100, 195-6 Basin Head Fisheries Museum 58 149, 156, 165, 177, 236 Thomas Raddall Museum 156 Maritime Command Irish 87, 97, 152-3, 181, Provincial Park 64 Beaverbrook House 139 Museum 233-4 Torngat Mountains Black Loyalist Heritage Maritime Museum of the playlist 235 National Park 219 Society Historical Site Atlantic 45 Scottish 10, 167, 233-4 Victoria Harbour & Museum 65 Mary March Provincial Provincial Park 158 Bras d’Or Lakes & Museum 199 musk oxen 248 natural gas exploration Watershed Interpretive Muir-Cox Shipyard 65 225, 252 Centre 94 Museum of Industry 85 N nature reserves, see Burin Heritage Museums Museum of Natural national & provincial parks 192 national & provincial History 51 250, 251, see also parks, reserves Canadian Museum of gardens, reserves New Brunswick Museum Naufrage 157 Immigration at Pier 125 Barachois Pond 21 45 New Brunswick 38, 102-42, North Atlantic Aviation Provincial Park 211 103 Canadian Potato Museum 196 Basin Head Provincial Museum 168 accommodations 102 Northern Lights Building Park 156 activities 109 Cape Breton Miners’ 219 Blomidon Provincial Museum 97 climate 102, 104 Northumberland Park 74 Centre de la Mi-Carême Fisheries Museum 84 Brudenell River driving distances 104 89 Old Court House Provincial Park 155 food 102 Chocolate Museum 115 Museum 99 Cape Breton Highlands geography 104 Dartmouth Heritage Old King’s County National Park 12, highlights 103 Museum 55-6 Museum 73 90-1, 13 history 104 Dory Shop Museum 65 Ottawa House Museum Cape Chignecto itineraries 109 Durrell Museum 196 Provincial Park 81-2 80 language 104 Fisheries Museum of the Cedar Dunes Provincial Perkins House Museum scenic drives 111, 130, Atlantic 60 Park 168 63 132, 141 Fisherman’s Life Central Grove Provincial Potato World Museum 110 travel seasons 102 Museum 101 Park 69 Prescott House Museum travel to/from 104-5 Fundy Geological 74 Dungeon Park 190 New Glasgow 85, 161-2 Museum 80 Prime Berth/Twillingate Five Islands Provincial New London 164 Garden of the Gulf Fishing Museum 196 Park 79 New River Provincial Museum 155 Provincial Seamen’s Fundy National Park 130-1 Park 119 Grand Manan Historical Museum 192 Gros Morne National Museum 122 Park 200-4 New World Island 196-8 284 Newfoundland 38, 169-221, planning Cape St Mary’s shopping, see also 170 budgeting 16-17 Ecological Reserve 188 individual locations, accommodations 169 calendar of events 21-3 Fortune Head Ecological markets car rental 183 children, travel with 34-6 Reserve 192 language 276 climate 169, 171 internet resources 16-17 Grande Hermine Park Shubenacadie 77 220 customs 181 itineraries 24-7 skating 33, 50

INDEX INDEX Irving Eco Centre 137 driving distances 172 travel seasons 16 skiing 32-3 Irving Nature Park 126 food 169, 180 plants 250 Corner Brook 208 Mistaken Point geography 171 Fundy National Park 131 Point Prim 154 Ecological Reserve 186 N- highlights 170 Gros Morne National  polar bears 248 restaurants 245 T Park 202  history 171 politics 224-5 reversing rapids 125 Terra Nova National language 171 pond hockey 21, 113, see root cellars 191 Park 195 planning 171 also hockey Route 430, see Viking Trail Wapusakatto Mountains travel seasons 169 population 225 Rustico 160-1 220 travel to/from 171-2 Port au Choix 204-5 slavery 65, 229, 235 wildlife 171 Port aux Basques 211- smoking 264 13, 212 newspapers 264 S snowboarding 32-3, see North Cape 168 postal services 261 Sable Island 100 also skiing North Rustico 162-3 potatoes 110, 168 Sackville 136 snow-kiting 32, 208 North Sydney 95-6 Prince Edward Island (PEI) safety Souris 156-7 38, 143-68, Nova Scotia 37, 40-101, 144-5 driving 271 South Coast Outports 42-3 accommodations 143 environmental hazards 214-15 accommodations 40 climate 143 259 sports 28-33, see also climate 40 culture 146 hitchhiking 271 individual sports culture 41 cycling 157 marine conditions 32 spruce 250 food 40 food 143 moose 129 St Andrews by-the-Sea highlights 42-3 highlights 144-5 sailing 60 115-19, 116 history 41 history 146 Saint John 124-9, 126 St Ann 162 travel seasons 40 travel seasons 143 salmon 117, 140, 199 St Anthony 206-7 travel to/from 41-4 travel to/from 146-7 Sambro 56 St Barbe 205-6 travel within 44 Prince Edward Island scenic drives St John’s 172-83, 174 National Park 158-9, Acadian Peninsula 141 St Martins 129-30 160-61 Cabot Trail 88-94 St Peter’s 157-8 O Prohibition 193 Fundy Trail Parkway 132 St Stephen 115 Old Man Luedecke 234 Prospect 57 Kennebecasis River Stan Rogers Folk Festival opening hours 17, 261 public holidays 261-2 Valley 130 22 orchids 250 pubs 236 Lower St John River St-Pierre 192-5 Orwell 153-4 puffins 94, 109, 122, 123, Valley 111 Summerside 165-7, 166 otters 186, 248, 251 171, 176-7, 184, 190, 191, Route 138 (Québec) surfing 32 oysters 165 216, 249 216 Lawrencetown Beach 56 Viking Trail 10, 200, 11 Seaside Adjunct P Q Scottish heritage (Kejimjukik National Panmure Island 154-5 Québec culture 93, 94 Park) 64 Park Corner 164 scenic drive 216 music 10, 167, 233-4 Sydney 96-7 parks, see gardens, sea kayaking see canoeing, national & provincial kayaking parks, reserves R seafood 18, 241-2, see T razorbill 123, 188, 249 tall ships 22, 49 Parrsboro 80-1 also lobster suppers, Région Évangéline 167 oysters Tangier 101 passports 266 regions 37-8 seal hunting 202 Tatamagouche 83-4 Peggy’s Cove 9, 56-7, 9 religion 225 seals 69, 83, 91, 117, 121, taxes 260-1 Petty Harbour 184 reserves, see also gardens, 126, 168, 193, 248 taxis 271 phonecards 262 national & provincial Seaside Adjunct Taylor Head Provincial Park Pictou 84-5 parks (Kejimkujik National 100-1 piping plover 249 Antigonish Landing 86 Park) 64 telephone services 16, pirates 227 Avalon Wilderness Shediac 137 262 Reserve 185 Shelburne 65-6 television 264 Baccalieu Island Sherbrooke 100 Terra Nova National Park Map Pages 000 Ecological Reserve 187 shipyards 65, 167, see also 195-6 Photo Pages 000 CA Pippy Park 176 Titanic tidal bores 79, 133 285 tides 125, 131 Truro 78-9 W Bear River Vineyards 71 Tignish 168 Twillingate Island 196-8 walking, see hiking Blomidon Estate Winery time 16, 263 Tyne Valley 167-8 Wallace 82 76 language 276 weather 16, 21-3 Domaine de Grand Pré 77 tipping 245, 261 websites, see internet U Gaspereau Vineyards 77 Titanic 44, 45, 173, 230 Unesco World Heritage resources

Jost Winery 83 INDEX Tobique Valley 112-14 sites 249 Wentworth 83 L’Acadie Vineyards 77 Torngat Mountains Grand Pré 75-6 West Pubnico 66 Luckett Vineyards 77 National Park 219 Gros Morne National whale-watching 20, 21, 28, -tourist information 263 Park 200-4 29, 248 Newman Estate Winery  T

Z  154 tours 271-2, see also Joggins 82 Avalon Peninsula 184-6 Rossignol Estate Winery individual locations L’Anse aux Meadows 205 Digby Neck 69-70 154, 19 wine 76-7 Lunenburg 60-2 Grand Manan Island 123 Wolfville 74-5 Tracadie-Sheila 141 Red Bay 218 whiskey 18, 193, 243, see train travel 267, 272 also distilleries wolves 248 travel to/from Nova Scotia, wildflowers 250 women travelers 264-5 New Brunswick & V wildlife 248-50, see also Wood Islands 154 Prince Edward Island vacations 261-2 individual species work 265 266-8 vaccinations 258 Windsor 76-7 World Heritage sites, see travel within Nova Scotia, vegan travelers 245 wine 18, 176, see also Unesco World Heritage New Brunswick & vegetarian travelers 245 wineries sites Prince Edward Island Victoria 158 festivals 23, 243 268-72 tours 76-7 language 277 Viking Trail 10, 200, 11 Y wineries 18, 243, see also traveler’s checks 261 vikings Yarmouth 66-7 wine trekking, see hiking visas 16, 263-4 vodka 18 Annapolis Highland Trinity 188-90 Vineyards 71 Z volunteering 264 Trinity Bay 187 Auk Island Winery 196 ziplining 208 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 287

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Hut/Shelter Walking Tour detour Shinto Lighthouse Path/Walking Trail Sikh Lookout Taoist Mountain/Volcano Boundaries Winery/Vineyard Oasis International Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Park State/Province Other Sight Pass Disputed Picnic Area Regional/Suburb Activities, Waterfall Marine Park Courses & Tours Cliff Bodysurfing Population Wall Diving Capital (National) Canoeing/Kayaking Capital (State/Province) Hydrography Course/Tour City/Large Town River, Creek Skiing Town/Village Intermittent River Snorkeling Canal Surfing Transport Water Swimming/Pool Airport Walking BART station Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Boston T station Bus Areas Sleeping Cable car/Funicular Airport/Runway Sleeping Cycling Camping Ferry Beach/Desert Metro/Muni station Cemetery (Christian) Eating Monorail Eating Parking Cemetery (Other) Petrol station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Subway/SkyTrain station Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Mudflat Cafe Train station/Railway Park/Forest Tram Entertainment Underground station Sight (Building) Entertainment Other Transport Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book AOUR beat-up oldSTORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Celeste Brash Coordinating Author, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island Trading Dungeness crab for lobster was no hardship on this, Celeste’s fourth grand tour of the Maritimes. Over the years she’s rafted the Fundy tidal bore, watched eagles nest, got stuck in a ‘moose jam,’ and climbed more lighthouses than she can count and yet, these provinces come up with new surprises on each visit. Celeste has written around 50 Lonely Planet guides. Find out more about Celeste and her writing at www.celestebrash.com. Read more about Celeste at: lonelyplanet.com/members/celestebrash Caroline Sieg New Brunswick Caroline Sieg is a half-Swiss, half-American writer. Her relation- ship with New Brunswick started when she first lived in Boston and she began heading up to Canada to see the crazy high tides everyone told her about. She was delighted to return for Lonely Planet. Read more about Caroline at: lonelyplanet.com/members/carolinesieg

Karla Zimmerman Newfoundland & Labrador Karla has covered Canada coast to coast for Lonely Planet. Newfoundland is her current beat, and over the years she has paddled by icebergs, come nose-to-beak with puffins, hiked in polar bear territory and driven by most of Newfoundland’s 120,000 moose. She’s visited Dildo, Come by Chance and Heart’s Delight, and intends to get to Jerry’s Nose one day soon. Karla writes travel features for books, magazines and online outlets. She has authored or co-authored several Lonely Planet guides to the USA, Canada, Caribbean and Europe. Follow her at twitter.com/karlazimmerman. Read more about Karla at: lonelyplanet.com/members/karlazimmerman

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