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THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LIFE, TRAVEL & ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND IN THE ISSUE Issue 15 • 2010 • September 24 - October 7 COMPLETE+ CITY LISTINGS - INSIDE! WTF! OMG! LOL! ROFL! BRB Glitnir CEO Lárus Strætó is finally London's Mayor RIFF promises Watching whales, Welding made over stepping into vs. Reykjavík's plenty of fun times rowing boats $3.000 per day in 2009 the 21st century

T The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 15 — 2010 The Reykjavík Grapevine Hafnarstræti 15, 101 Reykjavík 2 www.grapevine.is [email protected] Editorial | Haukur S. Magnússon Published by Fröken ehf. www.froken.is Member of the Icelandic Travel Industry Association www.saf.is Wish I Was Still On Vacation :( Printed by Landsprent ehf. in 25.000 copies. Haukur’s 31st editorial Editor: Haukur S Magnússon / [email protected]

Journalist: Went to the beach a couple times, actually. That hell are we trying accomplish here? This is not Anna Andersen / [email protected] was nice. Wish we had beaches like that over here. how an enlightened and reasonable society oper- Editorial: Oh yes, I did a little dance, made a little love, ates. This is not how we run a discourse. This is +354 540 3600 / [email protected] Advertising: got down tonight. Boy was it relaxing! As I boarded not how we solve any problems! +354 540 3605 / [email protected] the plane back home I felt like a fresh, new human It feels like we are all stuck in some sort of

Publisher: being, all ready to take on the world with the sun horrible Twilight Zone-type area where we are Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson / [email protected] +354 540 3601 / [email protected] in my eyes and a smile on my face. doomed do just cover our ears and scream as loud Then the stewardess passed around the latest as we can in one another’s faces while completely Contributing Writers: Dr. Gunni copies of Fréttablaðið and Morgunblaðið, Iceland’s ignoring the each other, the outside world and ev- Sveinn Birkir Björnsson two daily newspapers. ery attempt at a valid argument. Paola Cardenas Anna Margrét Björnsson Ugh. I sank further into my chair with every What are we protecting? Who are we protect- Emily Burton turn of the page. I tensed up. My skin turned pale ing? Dominic Rowland Egill Helgason and clammy. I started shaking uncontrollably as I What are we doing? Marc Vincenz envisioned of the environment I was returning to. I don’t understand. Alexander Roberts Eiríkur Örn Norðdahl Hi. I’m back from vacation. It was alright. I read a I cried a little inside. And I am having some serious doubts whether "Travis Bickle" lot of books. Drank a lot of beer. Took in some sun. Folks, what are we doing? Seriously! What the I have the stomach to partake much longer. Bogi Bjarnason Brian Suda Bob Cluness Íris Erlingsdóttir Mayor's Address | Jón Gnarr Catharine Fulton

Editorial Interns: Eimear Fitzgerald / [email protected] Welcome To Reykjavík Wiebke Wolter / [email protected]

On-line News Editor The odds of you being in Reykjavík are not great. himself has been dead for a long time: Paul Nikolov / [email protected] The greatest part of mankind is elsewhere. It is sci- Art Director: entifically proven. When I was little, I would often Hörður Kristbjörnsson / [email protected] ask myself why I had been born in Reykjavík. Is it Does this mean that I always existed, or that Design: a coincidence where one is born? Is it subject to I never existed and do therefore not exist now? Páll Hilmarsson / [email protected] some universal law? Did I exist in any form before That can’t be! It would mean that all our existence Photographer: I was born? Did I have anything to do with where was unreal and only existed in our own imagina- Hörður Sveinsson / hordursveinsson.com I was born? Why did Eva Braun and Adolf Hitler tion. If I do not exist, then neither do you. I have Sales Director: not bear any children? Did they not try to? Can it a hard time believing that. The facts speak for Aðalsteinn Jörundsson / [email protected] Guðmundur Rúnar Svansson / [email protected] be that no child wanted them as parents? I don’t themselves. If I am not real, then how could I fly to know, but I do not believe in coincidence. I do not Finland, send myself a post card with a picture of Distribution: [email protected] believe that God plays dice, especially not when Tarja Halonen, the President of Finland, fly back

Proofreader: human lives are concerned. These thoughts inevi- home and welcome the mailman that brought me also said that the Moomins had always existed, Jim Rice tably lead one to consider Schrödinger's cat. He is the card? I don’t know. I am one of many Iceland- long before Tove Jansson “invented” them. The

Press releases: probably one of the most famous cats in the world ers that believe in elves and trolls. I mainly believe Moomins are eternal, at least in books. [email protected] (maybe after Ninja Cat). Still no one knows what in Moomin elves. It is more of a certainty than a I hope these thoughts shed some light on the Submissions inquiries: [email protected] it was called? What was Schrödinger's cat called? belief. I have seen them and touched them. I know history of Reykjavík and its culture. I hope you en- Subscription inquiries: Abracadabra? I don’t remember. Let’s call it Phoe- they exist. I have been to Moominworld in Naan- joy your time in Reykjavík, that you go swimming +354 540 3605 / [email protected] General inquiries: nix. That is a common name for cats. Phoenix was tali, Finland. I have evidence; photographs, video a lot and tell all your friends how fun Reykjavík is, [email protected] of the nature that it both existed and not. There- recordings and witnesses. I had a good talk with and how everyone is always happy there and that

Founders: fore, it always existed, and even if Schrödinger Moomin Papa. He told me that life in Moominval- you will never forget your hotel, Suðurlandsbraut Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson, killed his cat in a rather tasteless manner, it is still ley was much better after Finland joined the EU. and the eternally young cat Phoenix Hörður Kristbjörnsson, Jón Trausti Sigurðarson, alive at Schrödinger's house, while Schrödinger He encouraged us Icelanders to join the EU. He Jón Gnarr, Mayor of Reykjavík Oddur Óskar Kjartansson, Valur Gunnarsson Comic | Hugleikur Dagsson The Reykjavík Grapevine is published 18 times a year by Fröken ltd. Monthly from November through April, and fortnightly from May til October. Nothing in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part without the written permission of the publishers. The Reykjavík Grapevine is distributed around Reykjavík, Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Seyðisfjörður, Borgarnes, Keflavík, Ísafjörður and at key locations along road #1, and all major tour- ist attractions and tourist information centres in the country.

You may not like it, but at least it's not sponsored. (No articles in the Reykjavík Grapevine are pay-for articles. The opinions expressed are the writers’ own, not the advertisers’).

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THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LIFE, TRAVEL & ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND IN THE ISSUE Issue 15 • 2010 • September 24 - October 7 COMPLETE+ CITY LISTINGS - INSIDE! WTF! OMG! LOL! ROFL! BRB Steingrímur J. Sigfússon Glitnir CEO Lárus Strætó is finally London's Mayor RIFF promises Watching whales, Welding made over stepping into vs. Reykjavík's plenty of fun times rowing boats $3.000 per day in 2009 the 21st century Photo: Baldur Kristjáns www.baldurkristjans.is Assistance: Gísli Kr. Hauksson Behind the scenes footage on T www.grapevine.is

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BSÍ Bus Terminal • 101 Reykjavík • +354 580 5400 • [email protected] • www.re.is MOST AWESOME LETTER Sour grapes A buncha POLAR BEER for your thoughts We're not gonna lie to you: we really love us some beers. Some folks would call it a problem, but beer never gave us any problems. In fact, over the years, and stuff it's solved most of 'em. A frosty glass of cold, frothy, bubblicious, golden- tinted beer has consistently failed to let us down. In the immortal words of the Say your piece, voice your opinion, once-reputable Homer J. Simpson: "Mmm... Beer..." send your letters to: [email protected] Now, since we're real pleasant and giving folks here at the Grapevine, we thought we'd share some wonderful POLAR BEER with you, our readers. Not only that, you're also getting the gift of social life with it. So here's the deal: our most awesome letter of each issue (henceforth, or until the good people of POLAR BEER decide they don't want to play along anymore), we will be providing our MOST AWESOME LETTER scribe with twelve frothy POLAR BEERS, to be imbibed at a Reykjavík bar of their choice (so long as 4 that bar is either Bakkus or Venue). If y'all's letter is the one, drop us a line to collect. Give us your worst: [email protected] Letters (Light) MOST AWESOME LETTER:

GRAPEVINE AIN'T GOT LEGS stood lonely and alone inside Havari Dear Ashleigh, To whom it may concern, looking just like a stupid fucking tour- It is with a heavy solemn sorrow I draft ist. Well, you, cool kids, local, bad ass, sorry we weren’t at Havarí that day. We to you this letter of complaint. Here I cool kids, really left me hanging. Hang- thought we’d been pretty clear that our am, a bright-eyed and eager young visi- ing like a strange, sober, solitary icicle, walking tour only lasted through Au- tor to your fair city, flying half way across doomed for September to wander the gust. Maybe we weren’t, maybe you can’t the planet to bask in the icy blonde poker seedy back alleys of RKJVK without you. read, maybe someone somewhere made faced glow of your gorgeous landscape some sort of mistake. Who knows! and megafauna for all of September, Well, see you around I guess. my tiny heart brimming with golden Anyway. You’ll get some beer at Bakkus promises of "walking around town with Sincerely, to cheer you up. And if you’re really, re- BONAFIDE local COOL KIDS - the LO- Yours for September, ally sad about missing that walking tour, CAL AUTHORITY on BAD ASS!" Gala- Ashleigh R. shoot us an e-mail and we’ll give you a vanting about town, sharing a beer and PS If you want to find me and apologize personal one, aight? a laugh, not looking like a tourist, what I am usually wandering around alone in more could I possibly hope for? Only to the Graveyard about midnight. be bitterly disappointed last Friday as I

Hello there good people at Grapevine, country. to them. You shouldn’t worry about not My question is: what would you do? understanding Icelandic. Most of what’s first thing let me just tell you how great Sue your employer? I know if the Union said here is pure nonsense anyway, so I think your paper is and how we for- would take over the cause I would win it, just nod your head and go about your eigner beings appreciate the pleasure of and get all the money back. The point is, business. some easy information! The reason I am how would I find another job? And what writing this letter to you is unfortunate- would I do without money, but leave the I came across your website and have ly somehow less merry...I am downright country and get back home? been reading it with great interest. Your asking for help, for I know how to get out Can somebody help me out here? English translations are excellent and of the messy situation I find myself in. this is the first error that I have found Let me explain...I am an internation- All the best, out of 30 articles. I am impressed with al student at the University of Iceland, I *Lisa (of course, I won' tell you my real the activism shown by your people in came here first as an exchange student name. I'm still afraid of the consequenc- punishing your rogue bankers. but fell so badly in love with this country es if my boss or anyone would read this). that I decided to stay some years more. I On http://grapevine.is/News/ReadAr- will clarify, for points that will be made Dear Lisa (if that is your real name!!!), ticle/New-Law-on-Work-IDs-Passed clear in the following, that I do not come change "eletrical" to "electrical". from a third-world country or similar. I what’s wrong with being in need or from am here out of pure personal interest, a third world country? Maybe we have a Donald E. Pauly not out of need. case of the racist pot calling the racist Las Vegas, Nevada So, I start my studies all over, and kettle racist on our hands here? Who USA was admitted as a degree student. Be- knows! ing of humble family, I don't have any Dear Donald, knowledge of the wonderful world Anyway. We can’t see that you problem where Mommy and Daddy will take care with your employer has anything to do thank you for your letter, for your sweet of all your expenses. That to say, I have with you being a foreigner, really. From compliments and for your eagle eyes! to work full time to pay my ass off, and it what we can tell, he or she is taking ad- We’ll make sure to maybe amend this er- ain't easy these days. I am a waitress in vantage of you because you let yourself ror if we can remember when we have a well known restaurant on Laugavegur, be taken advantage of and choose to the time and will get around to it some- and my condition here is the core subject spend your time writing letters to tour- day probably hopefully! of the matter. ist magazines instead of actually doing My employer is (self-admittedly) something about it. So go ahead and sue Hæ Grapevine, plain racist. I am not entitled the same your employer, and then find a job else- "privileges" as my Icelandic colleagues, where. It’ll be fun! If you can’t get one, I have few questions to ask you. for instance a day off for a dinner with well, at least you’re not in need. my boyfriend. No, I'll invariably be told - Are all articles published on the web- "Ha, it's not possible! You should have Dear Grapevine, site appears in the printed edition ? let me know some days earlier, than I would have said yes" (note: I asked I would like to say thru you : THX to - Would you have any spare copies to give permission on a Tuesday to have off on your wonderful country that it´s allowed of the previous edition of, say, the past Saturday; if this is impossible, I wander for foreigners to work here, THX to 3-4 years ? why my colleague could ask Friday night Grapevine for being updated even in the ( I know that all issues are available on for Sunday off, and be told it was ok... middle of nowhere:),THX for the drivers pdf and therefore printable, but i would mmh). Plus, I am always spoken to in a to bring us these news and customers, like to avoid it if possible) rude manner, that leaves little to one's THX to Elva and Svavar from Gullfoss imagination as of my foreign passport Kaffee, because they are the best chiefs Kv. as being the origin of it. I am not prone I ever had and such a kind persons you Yohann to self appreciation, but I feel I can say barely can find in Europe. Maybe 1 re- I am the best among the employees in mark for Icelanders: the probability that Hæ Yohann! my same position, the most dedicated dark hair and dark eyed person will be hard-working girl and often praised by speaking icelandic is approximating Thank you for your letter! It totally made the customers. to zero :), but pls - have mercy with us, our day for some reason. Or maybe it was Enjoy Some time back, during several talks sometimes we speak other 4 languages that wet lunch. In any case, we are feel- with the Workers Union Efling I found and just there is no chance to learn your ing SWANK! out that on top of everything my salary is interesting one in advance. So, all to best around 500 kr. per hour lower than the to whole Iceland! (BTW, have you heard Jay Reatard? He dining out law states. Putting it in mere numbers, rules! Or ruled. Poor guy). I am payed 1200 kr per hour, per hour, Martina, Czech Rep. whether Union laws state that night Now, to answer your questions: Enjoy covers the ambiance, food and location jobs (such as a waiter is if working after Dear Martina, 18.00) should have a minimum wage of -Pretty much all of the articles on our of 32 restaurants in Reykjavík a bit over 1700 kr. I am not gonna con- on the behalf of everyone THXed in your website appear in our printed edition. sider that since I've been employed for letter, we would like to THX your right Not all of them though. Not the news, Seafood, steakhouses, vegetarian, innovative over a year I should also be entitled to at back for your gratitude and generally for instance. And sometimes we have so least 2 pay-raise already, but I think it's THXful manner. much stuff to get off our chests we can’t cuisine and more . . . clear that over 15 months that makes for really fit it within our pages, so we just a lot of money that I have legal right to Anyway, we are not passing on your re- cram it on our website. get refunded. mark to Icelanders (Icelanders: if you I think it is outrageous that Iceland read what Martina wrote above, try your -Uhm... we’re not sure? Try emailing does not have laws protecting employees hardest to forget it), because we get so [email protected]. They might against this kind of racial discrimina- many complaints from foreigner-types know. www.salka.is tion. It is just plain shocking that these that are trying to learn Icelandic and are things can happen in such a progressist all frustrated that no one will speak it Geysir Area Tasting Icelandic beers ICELAND EXCURSIONS

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Visit our sales office downtown at Lækjartorg, call +354 540 1313 or go to www.grayline.is The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 15 — 2010 The CRAZY statistics come from our cool friends at DataMarket. They've got an almost endless amount of sexy data, free for all, at www.datamarket.com. Also check out www.grapevine.is/statistics for interactive graphs and other statistics! 6

News | Politics Opinion | Íris Erlingsdóttir Minister Malpractice F-U-N!!! “Meet the new boss, Government ministers, not the church ministers this time. same as the old boss…”

This summer's special income/tax is- sue of the Icelandic business magazine Frjáls Verzlun is at once a bottomless source of nauseating news and a testa- ment to the pervasive incompetence and disgrace- ful cowardice of Iceland’s political class. The mag- azine reveals that the con artists who bankrupted the nation were in 2009—the year following the collapse brought about by their spectacular inepti- tude, greed, and grandiosity—pulling in salaries like 2007 had never ended. The former CEO of Glitnir bank, Lárus Welding, received in 2009 over $3.000 per day—per day (which is a consider- ably higher amount than many public employees make per month after decades of work) for... for what? The magazine lists him as “Glitnir‘s CEO.” Following Iceland’s financial meltdown, Sólrún Gísladóttir, former Minister of tively broke this law. For instance, the former ministers’ human rights, such Welding is in familiar company; most all of his a Special Investigative Committee Finance Árni Mathiesen, and former committee says they are all guilty of as the right to appeal, which is not pos- bank buddies co-populate the obscene-salary list was commissioned to dig around for Minister of Business Affairs Björgvin dropping the ball on the Icesave issue sible in this court. Others point out that with him. evidence of foul play. Nearly two years G. Sigurðsson. However, a minority of by failing to ensure that Landsbanki’s the ministers, whose job description After they've squandered the nation’s wealth, later, on April 12 of this year, the dili- the committee disagrees with charg- Icesave branch be transferred to a sub- entails reviewing existing laws, never devastated its institutions, and ruined its repu- gent committee handed over a heavy- ing Sigurðsson and has put forward sidiary whereby its depositors would had any qualms about them until now. tation for generations, it is truly revolting to see duty 2.000-page report containing their a separate recommendation to press have been insured by Britain. Nonetheless, if called upon, the these prosperity butchers still making millions, findings. charges against only the three minis- Furthermore, the committee says court will convene as a fifteen-person and that after Icelandic taxpayers having had to A Parliamentary Review Committee ters. they are all guilty of neglecting to hold body, including five Supreme Court deliver first aid to their bruised and bloody handi- chaired by Left Green Atli Gíslason im- meetings to discuss the dangerous size justices, the Reykjavík district judge, a work. mediately went to work on evaluating Ministerial responsibility of the banks, and the ramifications of University of Iceland professor in con- Why these incompetents are still receiving those findings with the goal of coming examined this, despite the Central Bank Board stitutional law, and eight MPs who are obscene payments from the state-rescued banks up with lessons learned from the gov- According to Article 14 of Iceland’s of Governors briefing them about it on selected by their peers in Alþingi every is absolutely mind-boggling. They’re hardly be- ernment’s participation in the financial Constitution, ministers are account- February 7, 2008. Even if the crash was six years. The current MPs were se- ing rewarded for primo performance on the job. collapse, suggesting legal changes to able for all executive acts established inevitable by 2008, the allegation is that lected in 2005, incidentally during Geir Is it so much more difficult for the politicians to prevent another economic collapse, by law. Alþingi may impeach ministers the ministers failed to take any action to Haarde’s heyday. tell their buddies at the banks—as they have the and determining whether any ministers on account of their official acts and the minimize its damage. The court will then decide whether labour movement—that contracts cannot be kept failed to fulfill their ministerial duties, a Court of Impeachment (Landsdómur) any number of the accused minister’s is because there is “no money”? How about simply legally punishable crime. has competence in such cases. Trial by Court of Impeach- guilty, in which case the ministers could telling them that, considering their rotten job per- After reviewing the evidence, ex- The law referred to is No. 3/1963, ment face fines or serve up to two years be- formance, their employment contracts are null pert opinion and feedback from the also known as “the law about minis- If Alþingi agrees to formally press hind bars. For the time being, however, and void ipso facto? How about demanding that ministers themselves, the majority of terial responsibility” (Lög um ráðher- charges against the three or four minis- the issue is stalled in Alþingi. Prime they return the “bonuses” they paid themselves for the committee recommended that four raábyrgð). The law essentially states ters, they will be tried by a special Court Minister Jóhanna Sigurðardóttir has their fine feats? How about slapping them with a former ministers, whose names appear that ministers can be held responsible of Impeachment, which has never been expressed doubts about the process few executive penalties, for countless violations of prominently in the investigative report, not only for taking actions that put the called upon since it was written into the and others are having a difficult time Icelandic law? The counting house lords at least should be charged with failing to meet country in foreseeable danger, but also Constitution in 1905. taking on the responsibility of press- have cash—which is more than can be said about their responsibilities, specifically be- for not taking appropriate actions to Given that there’s no precedence ing charges against their colleagues. their victims—to pay them. tween February 2008 and the crash. prevent the country from such danger. for this in Iceland, it’s not surprising that What’s going to happen next is unclear. According to FV, eight employees of the banks’ The implicated ministers are former In their proposals to Alþingi, the the whole affair is generating a lot of marketing departments receive monthly salaries Prime Minister Geir Haarde, former committee details how the three or controversy. Some argue the laws are Anna Andersen of over one million ISK, which is remarkable gen- Minister of Foreign Affairs Ingibjörg four aforementioned ministers respec- simply too antiquated and violate the erosity for an industry that is considered overtly bloated in addition to having bankrupted a whole country. Equally astounding is the fact that most Iceland | Statistics of these people have worked at the banks for years! I wonder if these employees are the same ones re- sponsible for the “rapacious marketing” discussed in the Black Report: “Countless examples exist 50 200 of how people were manipulated into doing busi- Expectation index vs. support for the Independence Party Does Money Make ness... In some cases these are seniors who seem Source: Capacent and DataMarket Epectation index to have been deceived and defrauded and feel they The Independence have been humiliated in their twilight years.” And 150 regarding the marketing of the money market ac-

40 counts: “The Report seriously criticizes many of Party Go Round? their [the accounts’] aspects... marketing to the public.” It was difficult for “...individuals to real- 100 ize the increased investment risk since the infor- mation from the banks was at best deceptive [...] When then the banks are all promoting the same 30 deceptions, it is even more difficult for people to 50 get correct/reliable information.” How wonderful to know that the people behind these kinds of “marketing efforts” are still sitting Expectation Index (right axis) firmly in the banks that Icelandic taxpayers res- Support for the Indepence Party (in percentage, left axis) 20 0 cued with their blood money. I wonder if Stein- 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 grímur [Sigfússon, Minister of Finance] knows about this. Last February he said he believed that FACTS. INSIGHT. BEAUTY. salaries of the banks’ resolution committee mem- bers were “completely at odds with the current re- For some reason, support for the In- steady ascent indicating that people the stock market crashes, and people bad there really was no way to go, but ality, what workers in general have to live with [...] I dependence Party has oddly been on are feeling pretty good about their lose a lot of money. Icelanders aren’t up. But, what’s more interesting is50 that believe itXD is right and [the administration’s] obliga- the rise ever since they purportedly economic outlook. At the same time, too positive about their future eco- support for the Independence Party is tion to look at this and consider if the government brought about Iceland’s downfall. Well, the Independence Party is enjoying nomic well-being and they aren’t too also looking up. Hmmm… can somehow, via the FME and the ministries of to get to the bottom of it, we decided good support. Well, that’s a no-brainer. thrilled with their government either. finance and business, or the state in its position to follow the money. Here you have Then, in May 2007, Icelanders re- Well, that’s also a no-brainer. Inter- Check out an interactive graph at www.data- as a creditor, ensure that society’s salary decisions people’s general economic outlook alize the economy smells fishy and estingly though, by November, just market.com (short link: www.url.is/41e) 40 in general are in line with today’s reality, not the graphed along side support for Ice- the Expectations Index begins a rapid one month after the crash, it seems past.” land’s Independence party. Starting in descent, bottoming out in November people are already starting to look up. Anna Andersen I’m still waiting for the administration to take 2001, the Expectations Index begins a 2008. Okay, so Iceland’s banks default, Perhaps at that point things were so Páll Hilmarsson action. But I’m not holding my breath. This ad- ministration was elected to clean up after and in 30 the banks. For the former task they’ve made the We’ve Got Your Steaming Hot public pay, and at the latter, they’ve utterly failed. When it comes to taking on Iceland’s failed finan- Grapevine T-shirt Right Here! cial sector and its criminal class, this administra- -Impress your friends! tion is no different from its right wing colleagues. -Pick up men, women or both! Yes, The Reykjavík Grapevine finally has a However, while Icelandic voters can be forgiven for -Show off your impeccable tastes! T-shirt all of its own. Pick up a copy of this 20 -Make friends and influence people! sweet, limited edition item at Havarí on being frustrated over that fact, it is truly depress- -Pledge your undying allegiance to The Austurstræti or Dogma on Laugavegur – 101 ing to see that over a third of them believe that the Grapevine! Reykjavík. And do it now. For the children. only solution to the country’s nightmarish mess is -Cover your torso in style! -Support your local alt.magazine! to replace the politicians currently in charge with -Buy tourist merch that’s less obviously the ones who created it. touristy! Jim Jarmusch and Noam Chomsky will be at RIFF. Tickets available at the Where will you be? Eymundsson bookstore in Austurstræti from ≥ Check us out at www.riff.is 12 to 7 every day

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Article | Public transport

Taking The Pain Out Of Public Transport Jumping on board with Strætó’s new changes

Over the last week, commuters on Strætó bs, the public transport company that operates the buses in Reykjavík, have been getting used to the sound of a new automated service announcing the name of each destination along their route. The new service is part of a recent redevelopment program by the company, aimed at improving in- formation relay to passengers and to generally make taking the bus a much more efficient and user- friendly experience.

This might seem an unnecessary change for many regular users who al- ready know where they are going, but could be viewed as a welcome addi- tion for many others that don’t. Grape- vine spoke to project manager Bergdís Eggertsdóttir to find out what these changes will really mean for both reg- ular users and shiny new passengers alike.

Ch-ch-ch-ch-changes! The primary change to the fleet has been a switch over to GPS equipment from the current radio system, which involves calling each driver individual- plans to have both these systems in rive. “As 99% of people have a mobile to make paying for your journey more seeks to encourage people to take the ly, much like that in a taxi company. “A place on every Reykjavík bus by late phone, it is an effective way to stay up- convenient? Happily, Bergdís informs bus, seeing it as a more efficient, envi- major benefit of being linked by GPS November. This could be a welcome to-date,” she adds. me that the company is currently re- ronmentally friendly and quicker solu- and satellite is that the whole fleet and change for many tourists and out-of- searching the implementation of a tion than using a private car. Will these the control centre will be on the same towners that have no way of finding Yeah, but what will it cost? credit/debit card payment system for changes enable the company to deliver time,” Bergdís informs me. Installed on out where their stop is, other than ask- Now introducing sweeping changes passengers. “We are still in the plan- on its ambition? This remains a case of both the buses and in Strætó’s control ing the driver. is one thing, but all too often this can ning stage with this, as we need to find wait and see. “We've had mainly posi- centre, the system means that all the mean a price hike for the end users a system of processing payments that tive feedback, although a few people drivers will be working off the same Way of the future of the service. How does Strætó plan won't cause unwanted delays for cus- have voiced their annoyance at the an- time, on the same schedule and can Staying on the theme of improving in- to avoid the cost of these redevelop- tomers. But we recognise the impor- nouncements. The system is still being be traced anywhere along their route. formation provision, Bergdís outlined ments being passed on to passengers? tance of this issue and it is something tested and we are working on finding This sounds useful when you consider the company’s plan to install visual “There is currently no plan to increase that we are developing and intend to a good medium for everyone,” Bergdís that before this, each driver was com- signage on board all buses in the com- passenger fees as a result of these roll out in the coming months.” told me. She also believed that while pletely dependent upon the time on ing months. “Similar to bus systems changes,” says Bergdís, “actually they many might be slow to embrace these their mobile phone or watch, resulting in other countries, the Strætó fleet will have stayed the same since 2007, ap- Going green changes, they would greatly benefit in various discrepancies. be fitted in the coming months with proximately. The cost of the upgrades Encouraging people to choose pub- many regular and new passengers, “We knew our system was outdated scrolling electronic signs that display have been absorbed by building upon lic transport over cars makes pretty as well increase accessibly for those and needed to be revamped, so this the name of each stop as the bus the existing communication system, as good environmental sense. I asked if with hearing and visual impairments. upgrade has been part of an overall approaches it”, she explained, add- well as negotiating competitive pricing the company had any specific plans to “We can’t address all of these issues strategic plan,” Bergdís tells me. When ing that this will benefit the hearing agreements with contractors.” roll out more eco-friendliness down overnight, but this is an important first asked whether any of the new changes impaired, those who missed the an- Which brings us round to the is- the line. “Alongside internal recycling step and we firmly believe that it is a had been introduced in response to nouncement, were unable to hear it. sue of ticketing. Many of us have been policies, we currently have two buses positive one for many in the long term”. customer feedback, she added that Or just plain couldn’t make out what it in the following scenario. It’s raining, running on methane bio-fuel, and are In the drive to reduce traffic con- they do receive emails and calls and was saying in the first place. you’re waiting for your bus and you looking at various methods of increas- gestion, encourage ‘greener’ transport log any customers complaints: “The Another development down the line suddenly realise you’ve no money. So ing this number,” Bergdís replied. options and generally just get from A intention has been to create a platform is to introduce information updates via you run to the cash machine before Possible solutions mentioned were to B with a little less hassle, let’s hope upon which we can integrate these mobile phones. According to Bergdís, dashing to the corner shop to buy hybrid models or the introduction of so. suggestions”. plans are also afoot to make real-time some gum in order to get the neces- electric buses, the latter being a solu- The announcement system, which information available to passengers sary change. As you race back, the tion Iceland should be in a very strong informs passengers of their next stop, waiting at bus stops via their mobile bus rushes past, drenching you with position to develop given its natural has been introduced on 50 of the 120 phones, so they can keep themselves a puddle of water for good measure. resources. Eimear Fitzgerald buses in the fleet, and the company informed as to when their bus will ar- So, are there any steps being taken Strætó’s official mission statement hörður sveinsson

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I c e l a n d i c Sheep Farmers [email protected] / photo: The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 15 — 2010 Egill Helgason is a man of many talents, in case you were wonder- ing. Besides running a political talk show on Icelandic State TV, he also runs a literary programme there. And he blogs a lot for 10 website Eyjan.is. Busy man!

Analysis | Egill Helgason

Iceland Two Years After The Crash A Case Of Revolutionary Fatigue

Iceland has gone through several phases the banks as well as the failures since the crash of October 2008, when the Words of the government and the of- country's banking system collapsed in the Egill Helgason ficialdom, an application was space of a week and the currency lost half its sent to join the European Union, value. First there was total astonishment that Illustration it was thought necessary to change such things could happen in a supposedly ad- Lóa Hjálmtýsdóttir the constitution—which is an ar- vanced Nordic state, then came a period of chaic piece of paper from colonial anger, culminating in the-so called ‘Pots And times, given to us by a Danish Pans Revolution’ of January 2009. There was king in the 19th century—and even a period of optimism when we thought there were plans to overturn the a new kind of society might emerge from this system of how fishing quotas ordeal. are distributed, a very touchy subject in a country so depen- This might be called the phase of revolutionary fer- of the collapse is also unprecedented: Icelanders dent on fisheries. vour, when spontaneous citizens’ assemblies got thought of themselves as being better, more clever, All this was to be accomplished while at the staged in cinemas and theatres where government than the Scandinavians. This is even written up in same time restoring the economy and paying ernment ministers who are ministers got booed down. But since then things a now infamous 2006 report from Iceland’s Cham- off huge debts, albeit under the auspices of the certainly responsible for the have become rather more longwinded. We have ber of Commerce, which stated that Icelanders had International Monetary Fund. crash: Prime Minister Geir H. gone through a stage of a total lack of trust—a left nothing to learn from their Scandinavian counter- Haarde, Minister of Finance wing government that took over after elections in parts as they were better than them in every sense. A return to the old ways Árni M. Mathiesen, Minister April 2009 is considered a huge disappointment— This was very promising indeed, but now, of Business affairs Björgvin and now we seem to be drifting into a period of Nationalistic sentiments two years after the crash, things seem a bit G. Sigurðsson and Minister apathy. Thus it has always been easy to play upon national- different. Maybe revolutionary fatigue has set in. of Foreign Affairs Ingibjörg Sólrún Gísladóttir. istic sentiments in Iceland, even after the collapse. A constitutional assembly is scheduled for this win- They have all resigned from politics. For the Parlia- Megalomania and gloom In fact, some claim that Iceland was a victim of an ter, but not many seem to be interested anymore. ment this is a rather agonizing process, as these It came as a shock to many Icelanders to realise that international conspiracy to bring down its economy. Interest groups have regained their confidence, people are fellow party members and old friends. they lived in a corrupt society. The people of this They refer to this alleged plot as "the siege"—it is a including the powerful owners of fishing quotas— Many of those who sit in the parliament at the mo- large but sparsely inhabited island have often nour- rather outlandish claim considering the losses in- these quotas being one of the most important sourc- ment—and even in government—might also, para- ished strange ideas about themselves. They tend to curred by Icelandic banks on foreign lenders, inves- es of wealth in Iceland. doxically, share some of the responsibility for the think of themselves as being quite unique in the tors and savers. All the same it can be said that the The banks are being revived, mainly on the crash. universe—so outbursts of extreme optimism, even Icelandic public was the victim of its own inexperi- shoulders of the common debtor, there are just as So most likely this will come to nought. Due megalomania, are not infrequent, alternating with ence and cupidity. many employees in the banks as before—while to statutes of limitation this court case—which periods of gloom and insecurity. Icelanders are not During the great boom years from 2002 to common people are struggling with their moun- should be held before a special court as stipulated of a stable mindset like the neighbouring peoples of 2008, most people were quite proud of the bank- tains of debt, the legal profession prospers. Tradi- in the constitution but never before convened—only Scandinavia, for example. sters, hailed by many, including the President of tional party bickering has returned after a period reaches back to 2007, whereas the course of events During the boom years, Iceland experienced the Iceland, as being financial wizards of a new kind. when the political parties seemed a bit subdued. that ended in the crash was put in motion much greatest stock market boom in history, and the size So people did not understand what was behind the The Independence Party, the party most responsible earlier, in the first years of the decade, during the facade: That the banks had been privatised into the for the crash, is on the rise again. privatisation of the banks and the ensuing weaken- hands of cronies of the political parties, that they ing of regulation. So it seems that some of the main were getting fat on cheap credit, that the financial Is no one responsible? culprits—including former Prime Ministers Davíð institutions had been allowed to grow into twelve What is also interesting is that nobody seems to ac- Oddsson and Halldór Ásgrímsson—will get off times the size of the economy—and this based on cept any responsibility. Of almost 150 people who quite lightly. the króna, one of the smallest currencies in the appeared before a committee of the parliament, world—and that finally the banks were robbed from not one politician or official—I repeat not one—ac- The Polish way? the inside with huge bonuses and loans to their cepted any blame for how they managed to allow the Another way that has been mentioned is the Polish owners and their friends. economy to run into such troubles, collapse, while one. In 2003, during the reign of Davíð Oddsson, apparently sleepwalking through the whole sordid parliament voted for huge increases in pensions, Ambitious plans for change affair. especially for government ministers. In Poland, old The bankers are now outcasts, perceived as being Politicians also seem to share the ideas that politicians and government officials from commu- crooks. After the crash there was a sense of pur- the bankers and financiers are solely to blame, not nist times have had their pensions slashed. It might pose, things had to be investigated and put right. those who set the rules and were supposed to en- be an educating and edifying experience for some The new government was ambitious; this was a force them. This is of course very convenient, as it of these people to live on the pension of average Ice- time of reckoning and renewal. A criminal inves- absolves the whole political class as well as the civil landers—which have had to be cut because of their tigation of the banks was started under the direc- service. misguided policies and incompetence. tion of the French/Norwegian prosecutor Eva Joly, At the moment Parliament is debating whether a special committee of the Parliament researched to press charges for gross negligence against gov-

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LÉTTÖL Fíton ehf. / SÍA The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 15 — 2010 12

Response | THE GOOGLE A Letter to Victor Blaer

From one of the Grapevine’s leftist communistic hippies

Dear Victor Blaer, Iceland. Your own LinkedIn profile confirms these maybe Ross Beaty and Magma Energy of Canada two positions. Also, I have it under good authority are the cleanest that a businessman and his corpo- I was surprised by your article in the last edition that you were working in a men’s clothing store in ration can be, but until there is honesty and trans- of this fine publication [Reykjavík Grapevine, issue 2001 and beyond, but that is neither here nor there. parency from the very start, you’ll have to forgive us 14: ‘Foreign Investment Racism and Grapevine’s My friend, it is people like you who give birth stupid people for making a little noise as we trudge Leftist Communistic Hippies’]. I laughed at your to leftist communistic hippies. It is people like you through the never ending LIES and nepotistic deal- loaded headline that you fail to back up with any who work for Capacent, the very firm in Iceland ings. reference to the Grapevine’s coverage of the debate that advised Magma Energy on the purchase of HS To move beyond your first paragraph, I, too, am surrounding the private ownership of natural re- Orka, and then fail to mention this fact when writ- no fan of the governments’ action or lack thereof in sources and Magma Energy Canada/Sweden. Call ing a scathing critique of the “stupid” public’s noise this Magma situation—my own belief is that much me a leftist communistic hippie, to use your own over the privatisation of their natural resources hate is being spewed at Magma and Ross Beaty words, but I’m starting to feel more like a con- and prejudice against foreign investors—investors personally when the reality is that Magma and Mr. spiracy theorist—something about your article just whose success in this country is your bread and but- Beaty would not be in the position of being able to didn’t sit right. ter—who create the need for scepticism of Icelandic purchase Iceland’s geothermal resources if the gov- So I Googled you. business deals and foreign investors engaged in the ernment grew a pair and stood up for the best long- That's just, like, your opinion, man. You see, Victor, you probably shouldn’t qualify country. term interest of the Icelandic nation rather than al- the superiority of your arguments over those of all I have written in the past [see Magma Energy lowing private business to prioritise the short-term the “stupid people [who] continue to make noise” Lied to Us] on the need for more honesty, open- financial gain of a few—but for you to write “The ny that pays your salary, will raise some eyebrows. by writing of yourself “I've worked as a geophysics ness and transparency in all business dealings sur- more involved government gets in industries that Maybe if you and others involved were honest about researcher and as corporate finance professional rounding the sale of natural resources and all deals are supposed to be run on a competitive basis the your affiliations stupid leftist communistic hippies focusing on geothermal power, dating back to that would see control of Iceland’s resources loaned higher our taxes get, because they suck at it and like me would quit making all this noise. 2001” in the age of Google if you don’t want people out to foreign investors or others for lengthy peri- need our money to finance their failures,” makes Then again, maybe if we really knew what was to make some connections between you and the ods of time. If the “stupid” public wasn’t constantly me laugh. Was it not the PRIVATE banks and PRI- going on we’d come to our senses and make even foreign investors to whom we hippies show preju- having the facts of the matter hidden from them VATE business that sucked so hard at doing their more. dice. And if you don’t mind the connections splayed and if the “leftist communistic hippies” weren’t jobs that they have forced taxpayers to finance their across the table then why not just spell them out for constantly being lied to by businessmen and poli- failures? All the best. the Grapevine’s readers to better understand whose ticians with an inflated sense of importance and I respect your right to an opinion and I respect words they are digesting. power (all the while forgetting that is the “stupid your right to voice it within the larger sphere of Victor, you have “been with Capacent since people” who elect them and truly hold all the power communication that is the media, but if you are 2006,” if I may quote the Capacent website directly. if ever they cared to exercise it) then perhaps there so sure in your opinion that you will spell it out in Your “area of focus is corporate and quantitative wouldn’t be this societal divide where resources are 1.783 words then be sure, also, that your personal finance.” Moreover, you are a research analyst for concerned. interest in the success of Magma Energy, and oth- catharine fulton the Centre of Systems Biology of the University of Victor Blaer, maybe you are a good guy and ers like it who are advised in Iceland by the compa-

Opinion | Dominic Rowland What Do Jón Gnarr And Boris Johnson Have In Common?

“Anyone capable of getting themselves that the inexplicable rise of these two men—one stereotype, he can do what Boris does. Best Party’s platform was either vague or silly—at elected as President should on no account be a comedian and accidental politician, the other a But it goes beyond simply not obeying the least they were entertaining. allowed to do the job”. So said the late author politician and accidental comedian—tells us more rules; they’ve created their own rules. And when And here lies the nub of the matter. The poli- Douglas Adams. To Reykjavík’s credit, it did about the state of our society than it does about you create your own rules, no one judges you by tics of the centre ground killed political theatre the next best thing and elected someone who them. the same standards as other politicians. That and it took the heart out. People are tired of the didn’t really seem to be trying. At first glance, Boris Johnson, the right wing might explain how every scandal Boris inexpli- same old plastic mould politics with rent-a-face Mayor of London, and Jón Gnarr, the anarchist co- cably stumbles through makes him seem more politicians, which means when anybody differ- median and accidental mayor of Reykjavík, have charming and more loveable, but also explains the ent comes along we jump aboard—whatever they little in common. Jón, an Icelandic ex-punk singer freedom that Jón has to be creative without fear stand for. Politicians argue more and debate less. turned anarchist comedian, rose to fame with his of being judged by same standards as other politi- The strategy meetings, polling data and focus avant-garde comedy and his appearances in films, cians. groups have identified the small minority of float- television and radio. Boris is a bona fide member In part it may be symptomatic of a greater ill. ing voters who swing an elections and now noth- of the British aristocracy famed for his unkempt Politics has become so discredited, and society so ing else matters. appearance and inexplicable ability to charm his celebrity obsessed, that we care more about who But the fault is as much ours as it is theirs. way out of a scandal. a person is than what they’ll do. Neither Boris What Boris and Jón Gnarr show us is that while Both men have established themselves as nor Jón ran on any real platform, but somehow we continue to hold notions of what a politician people who don’t play by the rules and defy our it didn’t matter. The main thrust of Boris’ cam- should be and constrain what they can say and do, lazy shortcuts to classify politicians. Jón Gnarr paign was to bring back the famous London red we’ll be stuck with the same old second rate hacks, has an innate dislike for classifying people and bus—a sincere pledge, but one no less ludicrous refusing to engage in anything more meaningful Here in London, we recognise something familiar deliberately refuses to be placed in a box. Boris or irrelevant to the people than Gnarr’s promise that a short term expediency. Meanwhile, thought- in the unexpected rise of Jón Gnarr and The Best meanwhile is the opposite of the modern polished to put a polar bear in the city zoo. Most people ful and intelligent individuals will continue to Party. We too have a mayor elected primarily be- politician. Famed for being dishevelled, disorgan- who voted for Boris were either unaware, or simply shun politics, leaving us with the same old second- cause it seemed like a nice idea at the time. While ised and muddled, were he a Green Party member didn’t care, that behind his shocking blond mop rate hacks running our countries. I have high hopes for The Best Party, who seem to he would be written off as an environmentalist cli- and affable demeanour lay a hard right politician. me like a thoughtful and progressive bunch, I fear ché. But since he is a Conservative, and breaks the Nor did the voters of Reykjavík care that most The

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Interview | Steingrímur J. Sigfússon, Minister of Finance We’re still wondering: What happened? How did Iceland get knocked so flat on its collective ass? And what’s being done about it? So we thought we’d call up our Minister of Finance, Left Green chairman Steingrímur J. Sigfússon, and ask him. To our surprise, he picked up.Here’s what we talked about.

By Haukur S. Magnússon Photo Baldur Kristjáns WHERE IS HE TAKING US? Iceland’s Minister of Finance is in the driver's seat

The short version Progressive Party supported that govern- Money. Lots of it Of course we didn’t manage to finish 216 billion ISK deficit. The downswing in ince this is a tourist maga- ment until that spring’s election. Can you describe taking over the everything we intended to, such as greatly state income was also unprecedented. Szine, and in English, we In the elections of April 2009, we and job in February of 2009? What improving the state of our democracy by And the Central Bank went techni- need to start at the beginning— the Social Democrats won a pure major- sort of estate did your predeces- introducing a direct, person-based vot- cally bankrupt and we had to refinance we can’t assume that folks will ity combined [thus eliminating the need sor leave you? ing system, a constituent assembly, etc. it. That’s the largest single amount we’ve know what we’re talking about. for the Progressives’ support] and we It was hard, of course, everything We managed to complete some of those had to pay thus far, what the state had to You are Minister of Finance— formed a government. had been pretty much paralysed here goals, but not all. However, this was in my shell out because of the Central Bank. We how did that happen? I am chairman of one of the two rul- by the horrific events that unfolded and view a diligent and energetic government wrote off 192 billion ISK in 2008 as a re- It happened thusly: a government fell ing parties, and have dealt with econom- the pressure of dealing with them. The that was successful in doing the best it sult. That’s a lot of money. here in the end of January 2009, following ics and finance, so it was natural that I government that burst was not very func- could in the short time that it had. a bank collapse in October of 2008. This would become Minister of Finance. Actu- tional by the end and several matters were Imaginary assets resulted in great civic and political un- ally, I also served as Minister of Fisher- frozen. So we had to pull up our sleeves As an amateur, I have to wonder This money that vanished— rest, lots of troubles and hardship and the ies and Agriculture during our minority and get things moving, put a lot of proj- what it was exactly that had to where did it go? government that was then in place was government period—that was a very busy ects into motion as soon as we started. be dealt with... A lot of the state’s assets burned up; forced to admit defeat. People had been time—but since May 10, 2009, I have fo- We resorted to various temporary On one hand all the loans skyrocket our equity lost its value and both real talking about possibly forming a national cused only on the state’s finances. It is a measures to assist companies and homes along with the interest rate, the króna col- and imaginary assets got lost. We don’t government [where all parties collaborate] big job, as a lot of the problems created by that were experiencing trouble; we grant- lapses and there’s suddenly a gaping void mourn the imaginary assets, the bubble to respond to the unrest, but the then- the collapse wind up on my desk. I think ed them various leniencies on payments of money that needs to be filled... The ef- assets, but a lot of very real ones burned government was not fond of the idea. But I can safely assert that no one got as big a and allowed taxes to be paid over a longer fects on the state treasury were dramatic, up and became worthless overnight, in they eventually became exhausted, their portion of collapse-related problems as I period of time. We greatly increased inter- and its income basis collapsed completely. companies and banks. Unemployment coalition shattered and a new govern- did. est relief to help families that were hurt It’s evident when you note that in 2007 the skyrocketed; a lot of people that previ- ment was formed by the Left Green Party That’s the short version. by how much their loans had gone up as a state treasury had a surplus of 89 billion ously had well paying jobs lost them, and the Social Democratic Alliance. The result of the collapse. ISK, while by the end of 2008 there was a which meant a decreased income for the Music, Art, Films and Events Listings + Eating, Drinking and Shopping + Map Your essential guide to life, travel and entertainment in Iceland Issue 15 - 2010 www.grapevine.is

Where’s The Snow!? Iðnó Premieres September 26 Tickets 1000 ISK, available through RIFF MUSIC CONCERTS & NIGHTLIFE IN SEPTEMBER & OCTOBER

Prescribing with love dic balkan music. music for your live Celtic Cross 22:00 Live music. 28 experience Den Danske Kro |TUE 22:00 Live music. Sing-along night. Dubliner Café Oliver 22:00 Live music. Live karaoke night. How to use the listings English Pub Café Rosenberg Venues are listed alphabetically by day. 22:00 Live music. 21:00 Live music. For complete listings and detailed information Faktorý Celtic Cross on venues visit www.grapevine.is 23:00 Ask the Slave record release 22:00 Live music. concert & DJ Logi Pedro on the Den Danske Kro first floor. 22:00 Live music & beer bingo. 24 Hressó Dubliner |FRI 22:00 Penta Band and DJ Fúsi. 22:00 Live music. English Pub Apótek Hverfisbarinn 22:00 Live music. 22:00 DJ Fannar. DJs playin‘ hip hop, R&B, house and Prikið Astur funk until the morning. Anna Brá. 22:00 DJ Símon. Kaffibarin B5 22:00 Pabbahelgi #6 - Gísli 22:00 DJ Leifur. Galdur & Benni B Ruff. 29 P |WED Bar 11 00:00 Ómar á X-inu. Live DJ 22:00 Daddi Disco and Hlynur. Astur Bakkus Prikið Live jazz groove. 22:00 DJ Kári. 22:00 VIP party. Farewell night Bakkus Café Oliver for Dóra. 22:00 Live DJ. 22:00 Girls Night. DJ Maggi & Brynar Sódóma Café Oliver Már. 23:00 The Diversion Sessions 22:00 JJ Group. Café Rosenberg Klassart and Markús Café Rosenberg 22:00 Varsjárbandalagið. Icelandic Thorvaldsen 21:00 Skúli Þórðar and band. Folk balkan music. 22:00 Live DJ. music. Celtic Cross University of Iceland Celtic Cross 22:00 Live music. Sveitaball with DJ Atli and 22:00 Live music. Den Danske Kro Skítamórall. Den Danske Kro 22:00 Live music. Sing-along night. Vegamót 22:00 Live music & pop-quiz. Dubliner 22:00 DJ Símon. Dubliner 22:00 Live music. 22:00 Live music. English Pub 26 English Pub 22:00 Live music. |sun 22:00 Live music. Faktorý Café Oliver Faktorý 21:00 Standup & DJ KGB on the first 22:00 Live music. 19:00 Fátæka leikhúsið (Icelandic floor. Café Rosenberg theatre). Hressó 21:00 Whistling Gypsy.Live music. Hverfisbarinn 22:00 Böddi and Davið Troubadours & Celtic Cross Live music, special offers. DJ Fúsi. 22:00 Live music. Kaffibarin Hverfisbarinn Den Danske Kro 22:00 Extreme chill. Funky Fridays – old school fund and hip 22:00 Live music. Kaffitár café hop atmosphere. Dubliner 20:00 Tango Milonga. Kaffibarin 22:00 Live music. Kaffi Zimsen 22:00 Alfons X. Live DJ. English Pub Playday. Offers at the bar when the bells P 22:00 Live music. rings. 22:00 Daddi Disco and Hlynur. Prikið Prikið Prikið 22:00 Hangover Film Night. Film: Black Beer offer - Buy large for 700 ISK and 22:00 Danni D and Rottweiler. Sheep. Free popcorn small beer comes free. Thorvaldsen S.L.Á.T.U.R headquarters, Njálsgata 22:00 Live DJ. 17:00 Sláturtíð 2010 - Festival of University of Iceland 27 Experimental Music opening. Octóberfest. Costume competiton, pret- |MON Útgerðin, Grandagarður 16 zels, beer and more. Balthazar 20:00 Sláturtíð 2010 - Ensemble Vegamót Tango practica. Fengjastrútur, which focuses on 22:00 DJ Jónas. Bakkus performing "open" scores. 1500 ISK. Venue 21:00 Movie Night: Taking Tiger Venue 22:00 Soundtrack! Mountain (1983). ESN. Beer 500 ISK, film loops and DJ. Café Oliver Margarita Monday. 2 for 1 margaritas. 30 25 Live music by Raggi Troubadour. |THU |SAT Café Rosenberg

21:00 Dirty Deal. Blues band. B5 Apótek Celtic Cross Troubadours Sjonni & Hreimur. 22:00 DJ Fannar. 22:00 Live music. Bakkus Astur Den Danske Kro DJ Dirty Wizard. 22:00 DJ Jónas. 22:00 Live music. Café Oliver B5 Dubliner Ingo Weathergod. 22:00 DJ Jóhann Valur. 22:00 Live music. Café Rosenberg Bar 11 English Pub 21:00 Austin Lucas. Live jazz. 23:00 Óli Döri / Weapons 22:00 Live music. Celtic Cross Bakkus Kaffi Zimsen 22:00 Live music. 22:00 DJ KGB. Best friends day. Beer offer. Den Danske Kro Café Oliver Prikið 22:00 Live music. 22:00 Girls Night. DJ Maggi & 21:00 DJ Smoke. Wine and cheese for Dillon Rock Bar Brynar Már. 2, 1000 ISK. 22:00 Red Square Rokk. Live music. Café Rosenberg Sólon Dubliner 22:00 Varsjárbandalagið. Icelan Salsa dancing night. 22:00 Live music.

Music & Entertainment | Venue finder

Amsterdam Celtic Cross NASA Hafnarstræti 5 | D2 Hverfisgata 26 | E4 Þorvaldsenstræti 2 | E3 Apótek Dillon Nýlenduvöruverzlun Hemma Austurstræti 16 | E3 Laugavegur 30 | F5 & Valda Laugavegur 21 | E4 Austur Dubliner Austurstræti 7 | E3 Hafnarstræti 4 | D3 Næsti Bar Ingólfstræti 1A | E3 B5 English Pub Bankastræti 5 | E3 Austurstræti 12 | D2 Óliver Laugavegur 20A | F5 Babalú Glaumbar Skólavörðustígur 22 | G5 Tryggvagata 20 | D2 Ölstofan Vegamótastígur | E4 Bar 11 Highlander Laugavegur 11 | E4 Lækjargata 10 | E3 Prikið Bankastræti | E3 Barbara Hressó Laugavegur 22 | F6 Austurstræti 20 | E3 Rósenberg Klapparstígur 25 | E4 Bjarni Fel Hverfisbarinn Austurstræti 20 | E3 Hverfisgata 20 | E4 Sódóma Reykjavík Tryggvagata 22 | D3 Boston Jacobsen Laugavegur 28b | F5 Austurstræti 9 | E3 Sólon Bankastræti 7A | E3 Café Cultura Kaffi Zimsen Hverfisgata 18 | E4 Hafnarstræti 18 | D3 Thorvaldsen Austurstræti 8 | D2 Café Paris Kaffibarinn Austurstræti 14 | E3 Bergstraðastræti 1 | E4 Vegamót Vegamótastígur 4 | E4 Balthazar Karamba Hafnarstræti 1-3| D2 Laugavegur 22 | F4 Venue Tryggvagata 22 | D3 English Pub Hemmi & Valdi Venue 22:00 Live music. 23:00 DJ Unnar Andrea. 21:00 Birthday Memorium for Astriður Faktorý Hressó Mammut, Barujárn, Manslaughter, 23:00 Gösli & guests. 22:00 Mars live & DJ Elli. Catapiller, Poetry. Hemmi & Valdi Hverfisbarinn 15:00 Svavar Knútur DJs playin‘ hip hop, R&B, house and 7 21:00 Jóhann Kristinns & Bowen funk until the morning. |THU Staines (USA) . Kaffibarinn Bakkus Hressó 22:00 DJ KGB 22:00 Two Step Horror. Live DJ. 22:00 Jogvan and Hreimur P Café Oliver Troubadours. 22:00 Daddi Disco and Hlynur. Ingo Weathergod. Hverfisbarinn Sódóma Café Rosenberg „Thursty Thursday“. Live music and 22:00 Rocktober fest X-977 21:00 South River Band. Live music. beer offer berween 22:00 and 23:30. Mammút , Bloodgroup, Endless Celtic Cross Kaffibarin Dark and more 22:00 Live music. 22:00 TBA. Festival Pass 2500ISK, 1500ISK per night Den Danske Kro Kaffi Zimsen Limited Availability. Beer offers 22:00 Live music. Ólafsvaka. Beer offer. Sölvhóll Dillon Rock Bar Kofi Tómasar Frænda 20:00 Sláturtíð 2010 - Finnish ensemble 22:00 Red Square Rokk. Live music. 22:00 Troubadour. Defun. Mix of traditional instruments Dubliner Prikið and computers. 1500 ISK. 22:00 Live music. Surprise night. Beer offer. Thorvaldsen English Pub Sódóma 22:00 Live DJ. 22:00 Live music. 22:00 Rocktober fest X-977 Vegamót Hressó Mammút , Bloodgroup, Endless 22:00 Live DJ. 22:00 Jogvan and Vignir Troubadours. Dark and more Venue Hverfisbarinn Festival Pass 2500ISK, 1500ISK per night 22:00 DJ Terriers (Animal Collective) „Thursty Thursday“. Live music and Limited Availability. Beer offers Sunshine, weirdo beats and abrasive beer offer berween 22:00 and 23:30. Útgerðin rhythms. 1000 ISK. Kaffibarinn 20:00 Sláturtíð 2010 - Ensemble 22:00 Live DJ. Skmendanikka which specializes in Kaffi Zimsen performing on new/specially designed/ 3 |Sun Ólafsvaka. Beer offer. homemade instruments. Kofi Tómasar Frænda Vegamót Café Oliver 22:00 Troubadour. Live DJ. 22:00 Live music. Venue Café Rosenberg 21:00 Kimi Records Airwaves warm-up 1 21:00 Jona Byron farewell concert. Just Another Snake Cult + guests. |FRI Celtic Cross Free. 22:00 Live music. Apótek Den Danske Kro 22:00 Live DJ. 22:00 Live music. Austur Dubliner ONGOING 22:00 Live DJ. 22:00 Live music. B5 English Pub Classical Concert Company 22:00 Live DJ. 22:00 Live music. Concerts with classical Icelandic music Bar 11 Prikið every night at 20:30 00:00 Gulli Ósóma Hangover Movie Night. Free. Grandagarður 11 Admission: ISK 2900 Bakkus 22:00 DJ Öfull. 4 Kaffi Reykjavík Café Oliver |Mon Comedy show everyday at at 18:00 Girls Night. DJ Maggi & Brynjar Már. Vesturgata 2 Admission: ISK 2200. Café Rosenberg Balthazar 22:00 Hvanndalsbræður. Live music. 20:00 Tango practica. Celtic Cross Bakkus 22:00 Live music. 21:00 Movie night: Secret film! Den Danske Kro Café Oliver 22:00 Live music. Sing-along night. Margarita Monday. Dubliner Live music by Raggi Troubadour. 2 for 1 22:00 Live music. margaritas. English Pub Café Rosenberg 22:00 Live music. 21:00 Live Blues. Faktorý Celtic Cross 22:00 Swords of Chaos 22:00 Live music. Album Release. DJ Dans Hans on the Den Danske Kro first floor. 22:00 Live music. Kaffibarinn Dubliner 22:00 DBF & Terrordisco 22:00 Live music. Hemmi & Valdi English Pub 21:00 (Warm up act) & Mukkaló. 22:00 Live music. Hressó Kaffi Zimsen 22:00 Dalton live music & DJ Elli. Best friends day. Beer offer. Hverfisbarinn Prikið Funky Fridays – old school fund and hip 21:00 DJ Smoke. Wine and cheese for hop atmosphere. 2, 1000 ISK. Kjarvalstaðir Sólon 20:00 Sláturtíð 2010 20:00 Salsa Night Finnish ensemble Defun. Mix of traditional instruments and computers. 1500 ISK. 5 |Tue P 22:00 Daddi Disco and Hlynur. Café Oliver Sódóma Live karaoke night. 22:00 Rocktober fest X-977 Café Rosenberg Mammút , Bloodgroup, Endless 21:00 Live music. Dark and more Celtic Cross Festival Pass 2500ISK, 1500ISK per night 22:00 Live music. Limited Availability. Beer offers Den Danske Kro Thorvaldsen 22:00 Live music & beer bingo. 22:00 Live DJ. Dubliner Vegamót 22:00 Live music. 22:00 Live DJ. English Pub Venue 22:00 Live music. 30 3 23:00 Agzilla. Live music. Hemmi & Valdi Sep Oct 21:00 Myrra Rós & Gabriel Lynch 2 |SAt (AUS). 6 Apótek |WED 22:00 Live DJ. Astur Austur Live jazz groove. 22:00 DJ Jonás Café Oliver Sláturtíð Experimental B5 JJ Group. Music Festival 22:00 DJ. Café Rosenberg Bar 11 21:00 Hera Ólafs. Live music. Various locations 00:00 Ágúst Þorðarson. Celtic Cross Festival pass 1500 ISK Bakkus 22:00 Live music. 22:00 DJ Árni Sveins Den Danske Kro SLÁTUR, the progressive arts and music col- Café Oliver 22:00 Live music & pop-quiz. lective behind this far out project claim their 22:00 Girls Night. DJ Maggi & Brynar Dubliner goal is to host events of artistically aggressive Már. 22:00 Live music. music, promote artistically aggressive music Café Rosenberg English Pub in every way and create an artistic dialog 22:00 Hvanndalsbræður. Live music. 22:00 Live music. between its members. Hence Sláturtíð 2010! Celtic Cross Hverfisbarinn Featuring artists such as, Áki Ásgeirsson, 22:00 Live music. Live music, special offers. Finnish group Defun Ensemble, and Þorkell Den Danske Kro Kaffitár café Atlason, the festival is a showcase for artists 22:00 Live music & sing-along night. 20:00 Tango Milonga. experimenting with both new and traditional Dubliner Kaffi Zimsen instruments as well as exploring their interac- 22:00 Live music. Playday. Offers at the bar when the bells tions with electronics and digital sound. With English Pub rings. support from Iceland Media Lab among oth- 22:00 Live music. Prikið ers, the festival opens with a parade through Faktorý Beer offer - Buy large for 700 ISK and downtown Rekjavik set to feature sound 23:00 Momentum record release small beer comes free. installations at different points along the way. concert & DJ Maggi Legó on the Fun! For some more info on this experimental first floor. sound fest and the full programme of events, visit www.slatur.is. EF Music | Iceland Airwaves

ICELAND AIRWAVES HAS NEVER FEATURED AS MANY BANDS

As the Iceland Airwaves festival draws drone, a heavy shoegaze band from the ever closer (four weeks! Four weeks!) US, promising to add gothic meat to they keep announcing new acts to the the bones of the festival. There’s also bill! Sheesh! There’s not a chance we FM Belfast (we know a lot of you were can see all we want. But that is a luxury holding your breath for that), Domi- fast, but the last we checked they’re still problem. nique Young Unique, Shumi, Kenton on sale at midi.is. The schedule is also We are really excited about this Slash Demon, Sammi’s Big Band, and now available online at www.icelandair- year’s line-up, and the most recent ad- dark prince of all that is hip in the elec- waves.is. ditions to it are pretty amazing. There’s tronic, no colours too bright, no sound everything from Chateau Marmont’s is too loud, genius Dan Deacon. See y’all there! warped seventies Euro disco to Auto- Tickets have been known to sell out Iceland Airwaves Warm-Up Copenhagen

For years, the staff of the Iceland Air- on a wall in Copenhagen. their earlier albums. The power-chord waves festival has worked tirelessly to The evening starts off with a very driven indie-rock blasts have somewhat promote the festival abroad as an excit- low-key performance by Danish duo given way to a more eloquent and Magic Thursdays ing option for a weekend get-away des- Murder, who, despite their rather keyed down melodies which fit singer For concert information see music listings on this spread tination for young people on both sides ominous sounding name, play stripped Haukur’s vocal range a lot better, par- of the Atlantic. As a part of this effort, down folk tunes and at times evoke ticularly in a live setting. They delivered or visit us at www.sinfonia.is Iceland Airwaves warm-up shows have memories of my mother and her tireless a very solid 10-song set in front of an been hosted regularly in both London appreciation for Simon and Garfunkel. ecstatic crowd before returning for an and Copenhagen. This was my first op- Based around classical guitar plucking encore or two. Their biggest slip-up of portunity to attend one of these festival of Anders Mathiasen and interwoven by the night was the band members’ woe- promotion showcases and judging by the restful voice of Jacob Bellens, their ful attempt at speaking Danish, an art the fanfare surrounding this event, I minimalistic melodies inspire a good best left to the locals. have probably been missing out. part of their audience to simply take a Behind Dikta’s performance, a DJ The venue was sold out days in seat on the floor and take in the peace- set has been scheduled, joining one of advance. It was not the largest of ful atmosphere. But despite knowing Iceland’s more established names, DJ venues, truthfully, but a nice one, with that this will please a large part of the Margeir, with Denmark’s prodigal son, the event taking place in reception audience, as it probably does on most Kasper Björke. But the crowd wears loft in an old refurbished warehouse nights, I am mostly bored. thin quickly, as most attendees seem to that jointly houses the Icelandic, the The Icelandic indie-rock outfit have another place to be. An hour later Greenlandic and the Faroese embassies Dikta follow Murder on stage. Having the party is called off. on Nordatlantens Brygge. Inside, one established themselves quite admirably can buy Icelandic beer and Maltöl, a within Iceland, it may be their time to try rare taste of home, and admire the hide their luck abroad behind the success of —Sveinn Birkir Björnsson of an unlucky polar bear who met his their third album, Get it Together, which photo by Vanda Hellsing maker before going on to bigger things was an altogether different beast from Tickets » 545 2500 » www.sinfonia.is » Concerts take place in Háskólabíó. Outside Reykjavík | Venue finder

Keflavík Akureyri Egilsstaðir Suðsuðvestur Akureyri Art Museum Sláturhúsið www.sudsudvestur.is www.listasafn.akureyri.is Kaupvangi 7 Hafnargata 22 Kaupvangsstræti 12 700 Egilsstaðir 230 Reykjanesbær 600 Akureyri 470-0692 421-2225 461 2610 Seyðisfjörður Hafnarfjörður Populus Tremula Skaftfell Hafnarborg poptrem.blogspot.com/ www.skaftfell.is www.hafnarborg.is Kaupvangsstræti 12 Austurvegur 42 Strandgata 34 600 Akureyri 710 Seyðisfjörður 220 Hafnarfjörður 472-1632 CENTER FOR 585-5790 Kunstraum Wohnraum VISUAL ART Ásabyggð 2 Hveragerði Borgarnes 600 Akureyri LÁ Art The Icelandic Settlement Centre www.listasafnarnesinga.is www.landnam.is Mývatn Austurmörk 21 Brákarbraut 13-15 Mývatnsstofa 210 Hveragerði 310 Borgarnes Hraunvegi 8 483-1727 437-1600 660 Mývatn Sjónarhorn / A Considered View 464-4390 Stykkishólmur Ljósmyndir eftir Wayne Gudmundson / The photographs of Wayne Gudmundson www.visitmyvatn.is Vatnasafnið / Library of Water 18 September 2010 – 9 January 2011 www.libraryofwater.is

GRÓFARHÚS 6th floor · Tryggvagata 15 · 101 Reykjavík · www.photomuseum.is Opening hours 12–19 mon–fri, 13–17 weekends · ADMISSION FREE OUTSIDE REYKJAVÍK CONCERTS & EVENTS IN SEPTEMBER & OCTOBER By the How to use the listings Venues are listed alphabetically by day. For complete listings and detailed information sea and on venues visit 1 2 www.grapevine.is Oct Oct a delicios MUSIC lobster 24 |fRI seyri At the Restaurant Fjöruborðið in Stokk Rocky Horror Picture Show Hof Menningarhús, Akureyri 20:00, 4200 ISK. < Only 45 minutes drive from Reykjavík 2EYKJAVqK Eyrarbraut 3, 825 Stokkseyri, Iceland · Tel. +354 483 1550 25 %YRABAKKI 3TOKKSEYRI |Sat Fax. +354 483 1545 · [email protected] · www.fjorubordid.is

Dance Party The future is now 800 Bar, Selfoss 23:00, Free in until 01:00. You Are In Control conference talks creative business Rocky Horror Picture Show October 1 & 2 Hof Menningarhús, Akureyri 20:00& 23:00, 4200 ISK. Hilton Reykjavik Nordica Hotel . Admission 30.000 ISK

30 Creative young businesses usually operate from a laptop in a coffee house. If you happen to be |ThuB one of them, grab your laptop and meet some other fellow creative café cruisers at the ‘You Are Hörður Torfason In Control’ conference. The conference features talks and discussions about interesting matters Grænni Hatturinn, Akureyri of business relating to creative industries, including music, media, arts, design and gaming. The 21:00 concert. Grapevine has put together a musical line-up to enjoy between conference sessions. Borgar Rocky Horror Picture Show Magnason on classical contrabass will perform in the morning of October 1. During lunch, Hof Menningarhús, Akureyri Agent Fresco will spice up the food with some vibrant rock. With sounds that seem to penetrate 20:00, 4200 ISK. to the bone, Mammút will take over as day one draws to a close. Day two will start with Sóley, the songstress who will perform some dreamy acoustic tunes. The jazz ensemble of Tómas 1 R. Einarsson will play at what is bound to be one of the highlights of the conference, the New |FriB Nordic Food profiling and showcase event. The infamous Dikta will close day two as guests enjoy cocktails. Enjoy the music and get connected! WW Klassart and Deep Jimi and the Zep Cream Grænni Hatturinn, Akureyri 22:00 concert. Hafnarborg, Hafnarfjörður Rocky Horror Picture Show 3 Following People and Drinking Milk Hof Menningarhús, Akureyri |Sun Runs until October 24th

20:00, 4200 ISK. Works by contemporary Icelandic artists Memorial Concert William Vil- from different generations dealing with hjálmsson humour and irony. 2|sAT Hof Mennigarhús, Akureyri Hof Menningarhús, Akureyri 17:00 , 3900 ISK Guðnýar Kristmannsdóttir Memorial Concert William Vil- Exhibition with the Art Society. hjálmsson 7 Hótel Varmahlíð |Thu Horses & Men Hof Mennigarhús, Akureyri 17:00 , 3900 ISK. Runs until January 1, 2011 Orri Harðarson Photographic exhibition which looks into Bjartmar and Bergrisarnir, Valdimar Grænni Hattur, Akureyri og Lifun the history of the horse, spanning 100 21:00, concert. years . Grænni Hatturinn, Akureyri Rocky Horror Picture Show 22:00 concert. The Icelandic Settlement Centre, Hof Menningarhús, Akureyri Borgarnes 20:00, 4200 ISK. The Egil Saga/ Settlement Exhibition In these exhibitions The Settlement Cen- tre tells the sagas of Iceland's settlement and Egill Skallagrímsson, Iceland's most famous viking and first poet . ART OPENINGS Öldrunarheimili, Akureyri 25 24 Warm You with the Memory Sep Oct Café Karólína, Akureyri Runs until September 26 Hrönn Einarsdóttir Exhibits by various artists. Opening October 2 Populus Tremula, Akureyri Hafnarborg, Hafnarfjörður Jared Battes A Poke at Society Runs until Mid October September 25, 15:00 Pompei of the North, Westman Symposium - Talk discussing various Islands forms of humour. Excavation project at the site of the 1973 volcanic eruption on the island of Heimaey. Reykjanes Art Museum, Reykjanes- ART ONGOING bær 11:00 - 17:00 every weekday, 13:00 - Akureyri Art Museum 17:00 every weekend. Blaðaljósmzndarafélags Island Safnahús Museum Runs until October 17 Aquarium & Museum of Natural His- Photographs. tory in Vestmannæyjar Trú/Guðir og menn Luminous Mounted birds & fish, aquarium, and Runs until Oct ober 17 rocks & mineral display. Photographs by Ken Opprann. Skaftfell Centre for Visual Art Visiting Gallery Kling & Bang is like Byggðasafnsins Hvols, Dalvík a trip to outer space Birgir Andrésson, Tumi Magnússon Fram til fortíðar (Until the Past) & Roman Signer Gallery Kling & Bang Runs until November 28 Runs until September 30 Free Exhibits by Margrét Jónsdóttir, Þórdís Lina Jaros, Geir Mosed & Jens Jónsdóttir, Íris Ólöf Sigurjónsdóttir and Reichert A new transcendental exhibition is open- Þórarinn Blöndal. Runs until September 26 ing in Gallery Kling & Bang. The exhibit's Café Karólína, Akureyri description is out of this world: “Since the Margrét Buhl beginning of time we have been fighting for Runs until October 1 our survival, this is in theory a lost cause as Photographs Hemmi and Valdi´s we are programmed to self destruct, and also Dalir Og Hólar - Travel Drawings Acoustic sessions to finish the great task of moving into the Ólafsdalur, Gilsfjörður; Króksfjarðarnes; Hemmi and Valdi, Laugavegur hyper real as a way of transformation into Nýp & Röðull, Skarðsströnd Every Thursday, 15:00 another space. This means that humanism Gamli Baukur, Húsavík Free will end as an unsynchronized primal provo- Let´s Talk Local cation, and will also in the end call forth the 15:30 Comedy show about Reykjavík, All you lucky bunnies who aren’t working on end of the feeling of touch, smell, sight, and 2200 ISK/1100 ISK for kids. a weekday afternoon might be interested in hearing... And then again the beauty of the The Ghost Centre, Stokkseyri the cosy new afternoon music sessions at cosmic world is that it will continue evolving Night at the Ghost Museum Hemmi and Valdi’s. Just started recently, the as an identity of its own but often will use its An offer for two to spend a scary night at acoustic chill sessions are two hours of live energy sources from the activity that appear the Ghost Centre. 3500 ISK. melodies to relax and put your feet up to. The in the grid system. The fundamental truth and Gljúfrasteinn Laxness Museum gigs feature a mix of new and established the real source of happening here is expan- Ongoing exhibition. musicians with upcoming acts including Sva- sion but this is buried within every singular Gljúfrasteinn was the home and work- var Knútar, Jóhannes Kristinns, and Bowen cell that exists within a solar system.” Ragnar place of Halldór Laxness (winner of the Staines from the US on September 30. The Jónasson and Tómas Lemarquis will exhibit Nobel Prize for Literature in 1955). sessions will run throughout the winter, and videos, photographs and sculptures. Go musicians interested in playing are welcome check it out, it will definitely be mystical. WW to contact Myrra at the café. EF Central Reykjavík ct FAXA FLÓI

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UR 1 2 3 4 5 GARÐ ANDA e FishpackingGR Distri Maritime ThMuseum MAP Th MAP e Old Harbour Old Places We Like A Depart for whale and puffin Harbou T watching tours from the old r US harbour, a lively area, offering 1 C is for CookieÁNANA an assortment of restaurants MÝR and activity centres Týsgata 8 AR GA T This cosy new café owned by Polish couple NÝL A ENDUG Old Agnieszka and Stanislaw is the latest Harbour addition to the Reykjavik café scene and ATA Area SVEGUR already looks set to becomeNE a favourite FRAM R with the locals. Ideal for an early lunch or U R ÍG ÁNA VEST B RG 13 15 Future spending a lazy afternoon deciding which AT UR GEIR ARST A GA Concert of Agnieszka's delicious home baked BÁRU TA SG Hall GA ATA cakes you want to try next. I´d go withBORG the TA A Reykjavík cheescake, its pretty fabulous. EF RA ÖL AT D Art ÆÐ UGA SG I Museum BR TA ÆGI ÆT Main 10TR 11 14 YG 2 Havarí Tourist GV ASTR Down Info AG Ð ATA Austurstræti 8 R Taxi 2 Town GA 17 12HAFNAR 6 Even before it opened, Havarí was I S SÆBR D TÚNG A ST KÚ ATA ÆT US RÆTI R TUR LA everybody’s favourite new music and T ST The S RÆ GA AU TI Culture TA T design store. Headed by Svavar Pétur and AL Austur I National AÐ völlur T House Berglind of Skakkamanage, the shopTA shills Park Theatre K RÆ R GA IRK 18 U the musical goods of Kimi Records, Borgin JUST BANK LIN AUT RÆ 7 HVE ÍG DARGA Skyline SÆBR ALLA TI TA T Hljómplötur, gogoyoko and Skakkapopp as STH.ST A Icelandic A ST RF S TA Ó RÆ IS P 9G Vesturbæjar RG ATA well as posters, art, designHOFSV products and SÓ Parliament I TI AR Swimming LV JA “Financial A K 4 PP clothing. CFPool LL ÆT I AG T R LA ATA LÆ T 16 5 ÍGUR Æ K District” A SS ST AT Lauga A LT TI 3 8 NS SSTR T HR E AT City vegur A N Taxi RÆR 1 V BORGARTÚ INGB ÐURG RG Hall ÓLFÓL ST GLaugavegur SU R Up ÞINGHO NG 3 Barbara RA IN RNA Reykjavík’s main shopping ÐA SK U A T and culture street, featuring TJ TA Ó Town HVE The Laugavegur 22 a wide range of bars, bisLA tros, RF Tower GUR ISG cafes and restaurants. V ATA EGUR ERGS ÖR VE B At Laugavegur 22, above Karamba, Barbara ÍGUR A LA UV Ð T

City ÁS UG USTÍGU serves up a lively atmosphere for Reykjavík’s ATA AV KJ AS

Pond UF G EG ÚN G RE U SK IR S TT ÚL gay community and anybody else who KK R AT LA ISG AG ÍK IN A AT ATA R just wants to dance and have a good time. ÞÓRSG A Hlemmur NÓ FR FR ÍGUR ÓÐ UT Bus National ST The first level is made for dancing and is ÍGUR West RA A Terminal F Gallery ATA often packed with sweaty bodies, while the ST Side R of Iceland VIT AB second level of the bar offers a place to LU NJ RR E ÁLSG HÁ A TÚN sit, drink and chat and another in whichIM to AT AT NO Ê A BARÓNS S Taxi Laugardals RK Hallgríms BERGÞ smoke. CF BI Swimming BALDURSG kirkja ÓRUG Pool R Church ATA LAU SÓLE GU G A TA BRAUTARHOLT AV AT TÍ EG AG ARGA UR YJ AG RS 4 Hemmi og Valdi BR ARÐ AR The Einar NJ RÁ

GA Jónsson Laugavegi 21 Sundhöllin ÐA Museum U TA Swimming S AG K The “colonial store” Hemmi and Valdi is a University R Pool RA IPHOL AT SKI of Iceland GU PH cosy hangout that has advanced from being BERG SSTÍ OL Hljómskáli T T EI RÓN a toasty retreat, where one can score cheap ÐURG ÚN Park ST R BA ÍK beer and have a quiet chat, into being a SU University HR AÐ East AT SG of Iceland INGB ARSTR chock-full concert venue and an all-night AT UT NÓ Park L T RA A RA Side AU party place. And believe us, the atmosphere Æ AU UT FÁ AB TI SV BR is brilliant. SKK RR EGUR HÁ NO TEIGS S NARS VEGUR H GUN Miklatún Nordic House ÍGUR Park Culture Center FLÓKA VA TNSM ÁRST GA R TA 5 Tíu Dropar ÝRAR VEGUR ÐA GAML Kjarvalsstaðir ATA A HR AU Laugavegur 27 R National BSÍ INGBR Museum ARG AUT If you’re sick of all the arty cafés, filled with RÐ Coach UT A Terminal Sigur Rós wannabes browsing Facebook NJ RA

Ð RB Í on their Macs – go to Tíu Dropar. It’s a A HR L ÝR back-to-basics Icelandic café that hasn’t IN AH I GB RA UM changed its interior since the sixties. Really NG UT B proves the old adage “if it ain’t broke, don’t LA ÓLS TAÐ INGL fix it.” Plus, the coffee’s great and so are the MIK ARHLÍÐ LABR KR pancakes. SKK AU Reykjavík T Kringlan Domestic Shopping Airport Center Ë Ì

6 Habibi 7 Kaffitár 8 Boston 9 Kisan Hafnarstræti 18 Bankastræti 8 Laugavegur 28 Laugavegur 7 This small restaurant offers up a concise Kaffitár on Bankastræti is a comfortable Like an older sibling to the fabled (now This store is incredibly cool. It’s stocked with menu of delicious Arabic cuisine, from little café with a great selection of coffee, deceased) Sirkús, Boston is a warm and really unique and quirky clothes, outerwear, shawarma to kebabs and falafels. The tea and baked goods on offer. Since Kaffitár mellow second-floor bar on Laugavegur accessories and handbags, plus they have staff is really friendly and accommodating is also a big-name Icelandic roasterie the that plays host to the arty party crowd. an adorable section of kids clothes, kitschy of requests to kick up the spiciness or caffeinated beverages on the menu are The baroque wall dressings and deep, rich vintage toys and books and even interior tone it down if the customer so desires. quality. The wi-fi makes this a nice place to coloured décor make this bar feel pretty design items. Wicked place; definitely worth Habibi seriously hits the spot after hours sit and chill with your laptop as well. CF swank, but the mood of the place can go a visit. CF of partying (or any other time of day) so from great to legendary within a heartbeat. it’s convenient that the place is allegedly CF open until 6 a.m. Friday and Saturday (although their advertised opening hours are sometimes not adhered to). CF Central Reykjavík ct FAXA FLÓI

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UR ARÐ 6 7 8 9 10 G 13 Café d’Haiti ANDA e FishpackingGR Distri Geirsgötu 7b Maritime For a map of outside downtown Reykjavík The first time I entered this exotic little ThMuseum visit www.grapevine.is or the Icelandic joint, meaning to buy myself a take-away The phonebook website www.ja.is espresso, I ended up with two kilos of Old Harbour Old fresh and roasted coffee beans due to Depart for whale and puffin Harbou some language complications and way too T watching tours from the old r US harbour, a lively area, offering much politeness. Since then I have enjoyed Ask for a Tax Free If you have an iPhone, check out the cool an assortment of restaurants probably way-too-many wonderful cups of ÁNANA Locatify app in the AppStore. It´s got a FREE form & save up to 15% MÝR and activity centres Haitian coffee, but they’re always as nice, guided audio tour of the downtown area, AR so the two kilos were definitely worth it. SKK GA courtesy of your pals at Grapevine. TA NÝLENDUG Old Harbour ATA Area SVEGUR NE FRAM R U R ÍG ÁNA VEST RG Future 14 Kolaportið AT UR GEIR ARST A GA Concert BÁRU TA SG Hall GA ATA Tryggvagata 19 BORG TA A Reykjavík RA ÖL AT Reykjavík’s massive indoor flea market is a D Art ÆÐ UGA SG I Museum wonderful place to get lost for a few hours, BR TA ÆGI ÆT Main TR rummaging through stall upon stall of YG Tourist GV potential treasures. There are heaps of used ASTR Down Info AG Ð ATA clothing, knitwear and other yard-sale type R Taxi Town goods from decades of yore, and a large GA HAFNAR I S SÆBR TÚNG A ST KÚ food section with fish, meats and baked ATA ÆT US RÆTI R TUR LA T ST The goods. Check out the vintage post cards and S RÆ GA AU TI Culture TA T AL Austur prints at the table near the army surplus. CF I National AÐ völlur T House TA Park Theatre K RÆ R GA IRK U JUST BANK LIN AUT RÆ HVE ÍG DARGA Skyline SÆBR ALLA TI TA T STH.ST A Icelandic A ST RF S TA Ó RÆ IS P G Vesturbæjar RG ATA HOFSV SÓ Parliament I TI AR Swimming LV JA “Financial A K PP Pool LL ÆT I AG T R LA ATA LÆ T ÍGUR Æ K District” A ST SS 15 Sushismiðjan AT Lauga A LT TI NS SSTR T HR AT City vegur A N Taxi RÆR V BORGARTÚ Geirsgötu 3 INGB ÐURG RG Hall ÓLFÓL ST GLaugavegur SU R Up ÞINGHO NG RA IN RNA Reykjavík’s main shopping This is a seriously great place to grab a ÐA SK U A T and culture street, featuring quick and quality sushi lunch. Pre-prepared TJ TA Ó Town HVE The a wide range of bars, bisLA tros, RF Tower GUR ISG boxes of maki and nigiri are reasonable cafes and restaurants. V ATA EGUR ERGS ÖR VE B ÍGUR priced and really well made, amply filled A LA UV Ð T

City ÁS UG USTÍGU ATA AV with deliciously fresh ingredients. The KJ AS

Pond UF G EG ÚN G RE U SK IR S TT ÚL KK R AT LA ISG AG indoor seating area is limited to some stools ÍK IN A AT ATA R A ÞÓRSG Hlemmur NÓ and outward-facing wall-mounted tabletops FR FR ÍGUR ÓÐ UT Bus National ST ÍGUR but there are a couple of tables and chairs West RA A Terminal Gallery ATA ST set up outside the front door for those Side R of Iceland VIT AB LU NJ RR wanting to watch the ships and tourists in E ÁLSG HÁ A TÚN IM AT AT NO Ê the harbour while they eat. A BARÓNS S Taxi Laugardals RK Hallgríms BERGÞ BI Swimming BALDURSG kirkja ÓRUG Pool R Church ATA LAU SÓLE GU G A TA BRAUTARHOLT AV AT TÍ EG AG ARGA UR YJ AG RS BR ARÐ 16 Grænn Kostur AR The Einar NJ RÁ

GA Jónsson Sundhöllin ÐA Skólavörðustíg 8b Museum U TA Swimming S A K University R Pool RA IPHOL AT SKI Serving healthy organic vegan and of Iceland GU PH BERG SSTÍ OL vegetarian food for well over a decade, Hljómskáli T T EI ÓN ÐURG R ÚN Park ST R BA Grænn Kostur is the perfect downtown ÍK SU University HR AÐ East AT SG choice for enjoying light, wholesome and of Iceland INGB ARSTR AT UT NÓ Park L T inexpensive meals. Try any of their courses RA A RA Side AU Æ AU of the day, or go for the ever-pleasing UT FÁ AB TI SV BR RR spinach lasagne. EGUR HÁ NO TEIGS S NARS VEGUR GUN Miklatún Nordic House ÍGUR Park Culture Center FLÓKA VA 17 Kraum TNSM ÁRST GA R TA ÝRAR Aðalstræti 10 VEGUR ÐA GAML Kjarvalsstaðir ATA A HR AU National BSÍ INGBR R Museum The Kraum Iceland Design store features ARG AUT RÐ Coach UT the best from the latest trends in Icelandic A Terminal NJ RA design. Kraum sells unique, Icelandic

Ð RB Í A takes on everyday items like stationary, HR L ÝR wooden children’s toys, plastic zip-lockable IN AH GB RA UM handbags and raincoats, and woollen and UT NG B LA ÓLS other clothing and jewellery. TAÐ INGL MIK AR LA HLÍÐ KR BRAU Laugavegur 56 Reykjavík T Kringlan Domestic Shopping 101 Reykjavík Airport Center Ë Ì www.nikitaclothing.com

18 10 Sódóma Reykjavík 11 Bakkus 12 Jacobsen Borgarhjól / City Bicycle Tryggvagötu 22 Tryggvagata 22 – Naustarmegin Austurstræti Hverfisgata 59 Sódóma on Tryggvagötu quickly became a A new and welcome addition to Reykajvík’s Jacobsen is owned by some nouveau riche For those that want to soak up the city hit with party crowds and gig-goers alike. bar scene, Bakkus serves up reasonably Swedes, and has been providing a non-stop sights and surrounding countryside at a An extensive venue, filled with reasonably priced beer, a really impressive selection party over the last few months. Besides its more leisurely pace, then you should really priced beverages and reasonably good of international vodkas and an atmosphere importing foreign big-shot DJs and other check this place out. Its a really old school looking people. Some of Iceland’s finest unlike any other in town. An eclectic mix of niceties, it is probably most appreciated for bike shop that mends as well as rents out musical ventures regularly perform there, patrons, regular live music and movie nights its loooong hours; it doesn’t matter if you bikes, and at really reasonable rate too. and their schedule looks promising too. keep this place interesting and always stop partying at 2AM or way-too-much AM, They also sell helmets, safety gear and Also, make sure to visit their men’s room for inviting. Expect dancing on tables and to- Jacobsen is always forking out shots and accessories if you really want to go all out. a glance at the “Pissoir of Absolution”. JB the-death foosball battles. CF cocktails. SKK EF

LAUGAVEGUR 51, 101 RVK Every night to ART IMAGINE Viðey island GALLERIES & MUSEUMS IN SEPTEMBER & OCTOBER at 20:00 from October 9th to PEACE December 8th Cocktail pleasures and The Einar Jónsson Museum Visual stimulation The work of sculptor Einar Jónsson. Gallery Ágúst Tours Runs until October 10 Lennon Tribute How to use the listings: Venues are listed alphabetically by day. For complete listings Exhibit by Marta M. Jónsdóttir. dinner shows on and detailed information on venues visit Gljúfrasteinn Laxness Museum www.grapevine.is Gljúfrasteinn was the home and work- special dates place of Halldór Laxness (winner of the Updates on Nobel Prize for Literature in 1955). imaginepeace.is Gerðarsafn, Art Museum Kópa- OPENINGS vogur ASÍ Art Museum 9 Art Nurses Runs until October 10 October 2 - October 24 Group exhibition of nine young visual Exhibitions by Anna Hallin and Óskvil- artists at gerðarsafn Art Museum hjálmsdóttir. Gerðuberg Gallery Kling & Bang Flights of Fancy Luminous Runs until October 17 Opening September 25, 17:00 Paintings by Aðalbjörg Þórðardóttir of Runs until October 24 swans as folktale motifs, part of the Elding Viðey Tours Tel. +354 533 5055 www.imaginepeace.is Exhibits by Ragnar Jónasson & Tómas natural environment and symbols of the Lemarquis. soul. Gerðarsafn, Art Museum Kópa- Responses vogur Runs until October 10 9 Artworks made of old paper by Jón September 25 & October 2, 14:00 Laxdal Halldórsson. Whale Watching Performance by Páll Haukur Björnsson. In Four Corners Hilton Nordica Reykjavik Hotel Runs until October 31 You Are In Control i8 October 1 & 2 Thór Vigfússon International conference on digital Runs until October 16 media. For schedule visit www.youarein- A series of wall works made with painted control.is. glass. Lost Horse Gallery, Hverfisgata 71 The Library Room Sara Glaxia National Archives of Iceland - 90 years September 25, 20:00 in the museum building.Commemorat- Performance. ing the 100th anniversary of the Culture Mokka Kaffi House. Hirt The Living Art Museum Opening September 24 Lobbyists Runs until October 21 Runs until October 2 - Daily whale watching tours from the Old harbour of Reykjavik Exhibits by Sigurdís Harpa. Exhibits by Libia Castro & Ólafur Ólafs- - Free entry to the Whale Watching Centre for our passengers Reykjavík Art Museum son. Kjarvalsstaðir Museum of Design and Applied Art International Day of Architecture Sigríðar Heimisdóttir October 2 & 3, 15:00 Runs until January 30, 2011 Programme on architect Jón Haraldsson. The National Gallery of Iceland Make sure it’s Elding! Tour Operator Moderator artist Haraldur Jónsson. Imported Landscapes Environmental Award Tel. 555 3565 Icelandic Tourist Board Reykjavík International Film Festi- Runs until November 7 EarthCheck SILVER CERTIFIED Authorised by Photos by Pétur Thomsen tracing 2009 Icelandic Tourist Boar val (RIFF) www.elding.is September 23 - October 3 changes in the natural landscape at 100 films screened in various venues. Hafrahvammagljúfur. For schedule visit www.riff.is Cars in Rivers Reykjavik Museum of Photography Runs until November 7 A Considerd View Photos by Ólafur Eliasson - series Pizzeria tel. 578 8555 Lækjargata 8 Downtown September 18 – January 9, 2011 evoking the artist´s connection with the Photographs of Wayne Gudmundson. Icelandic wilderness. Telecommunications Museum, Strides Suðurgata Runs until December 31, 2012. September 19 - November 14 A selection of the Gallery's collection Exhibition on telecommunication. from the 20th and 21st Open on sundays 11:00 - 17:00. century. The National Museum The Making of a Nation ONGOING Heritage and History in Iceland is ART67 intended to provide insight into the Tíma mot history of the Icelandic nation from the Ungoing Settlement to the present day. Exhibits by Stefán Hermannsson. Ása Wright - From Iceland to Trini- Probably the best pizza Árbæjarsafn / Reykjavík City Mu- dad seum Collection of objects that belonged to Guided Tours the adventuress Ása Guðmundsdóttir. Runs until May 31, 2011 Embroidery of Life in town Guided tours Mondays, Wednesdays Embroidery by Guðrún Guðmundsdóttir, and Fridays at 1 pm. inspired by old manuscripts. Exhibitions running year round on the The Nordic House history of Reykjavik and Iceland life. Land Of Experiments Artótek Runs until September 30 Daði Guðbjörnsson Interactive exhibit based on scientific Runsuntil October 3 contraptions from Tom Tits Experimen- ASÍ Art Museum tarium in Sweden. Play! Svava Björnsdottir and Inga Ráðhús Reykjavíkur Ragnarsdottir Dulin Himintungl Runs until September 26 Kim Linnet exhibits her 360° panorama Sculptures photos of Iceland. The Culture House The Settlement Exhibition Woolens factory sto r e , Genuine woolen goods, Medieval Manuscripts Permanent exhibition. located in Vik made in Iceland Runs until January 2011 Reykjavík Art Museum ______Icelanders Ásmundarsafn Ongoing exhibition Sleep Light Also wide selection Exhibit featuring a selection of photo- Runs until April 17, 2011. graphs from the book Multimedia installation by Ráðhildur of souvenirs "Icelanders" by Unnur Jökulsdóttir and Ingadóttir. Sigurgeir Sigurjónsson. Thoughts In Forms Iceland::Film Runs until April 17, 2011. Ongoing exhibition The workshop of sculptor Ásmundur Traces the evolution of Icelandic film- Sveinsson, recreated. making, exploring myths “I choose blossoming women …” versus modernity. Runs until April 17, 2011 Cinema Nr. 2 Woman as Symbol in the Art of Ásmun- The Eruption! dur Sveinsson. Monday - Friday 16:00 & 16:30 Hafnarhús Ongoing all winter Mel Ramos Þorsmörk - The Hidden Valley of Þór Runs until November 7 Monday - Friday 17:00 Lithographs and silkscreens , created by Ongoing all winter the American artist between 1996 and Icelandic nature films. 2009. The Dwarf Gallery Erró – Collage Ongoing Exhibition Runs until August 28, 2011 An independent art gallery with ongo- September 26, 15:00 Gallery talk. Víkurprjón ehf ing exhibitions. It´s located in an old A holistic selection of Erró‘s collages basement. Do you really need to know from Reykjavik Art Museum‘s Erró col- Phone: 487-1250 anymore than that? lection. www.vikwool.is ART GALLERIES & MUSEUMS IN SEPTEMBER & OCTOBER Elegant surroundings Superb cuisine

Indian Highway Reykjavik Maritime Museum Modern comfort Preserving quality Runs until October 10 The Coast Guard vessel Óðinn Comtemporary Indian Art Video. Permanent exhibition is our business D17 Magnús Helgason – Im not a The Óðinn took part in all three Cod Compost, I´m an Earthworm Wars and is open for Open daily for lunch and dinners Runs until October 24 exhibition. Special off er on Monday Gardening with Paint. Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum and Tuesday – 3 course dinner Kjarvalsstaðir "What are you up to now, my dear The Will as a Weapon Erlingur" for only 4200 ISK. Runs until October 24 Runs until November 28 (Fe)male workshop Sculptures by Erlingur Jónsson and Reservation: tel. 552 5700, Runs until November 7 Sigurjón Ólafsson. e-mail: [email protected] Family workshop in connection with the Spark, Design Space exhibition The Will as a Weapon. Vík Prjónsdóttir Kjarval – Key works Runs until October 30 Runs until January 16, 2011 Design and fashion. Extensive collection of works by Bergstaðastræti 37 s. 552 5700 Jóhannes S. Kjarval. [email protected] www.holt.is

7 31 Oct Oct

Transaquania – Into Thin Air The Evolution of a new tribe of men Premiers October 7 Reykjavík City Theatre 5200 ISK

In April 2009, the evolution of a new tribe of men, the Transaquanians, began. The first part of this production, “Transaquania – Out Of The Blue”, took place at the Blue Lagoon, where new life unexpectedly emerged from the silky water. Taking the concept further, “Transaquania – Into Thin Air” will showcase those magical creatures at a later state in their evolution. The cooperation of dancers and choreographers, Erna Órmarsdóttir and Damien Jalet with visual artist, Gabríela Friðriksdóttir and experimental musician Ben Frost turns, "Transaquania" into a GLACIER synaesthetic experience. WW

Art | Venue finder ART67 Gallery Kling & Bang The Nordic House ADVENTURES Laugavegur 67 | F6 Hverfisgata 42 | E5 Sturlugata 5 | H1 Mon - Fri 12 - 18 / Sat Thurs–Sun from 14–18 Tue–Sun 12–17 12 - 16 this.is/klingogbang/ www.nordice.is/ AND OTHER EXCITING DAY TOURS Artótek Gerðuberg Cultural Centre Restaurant Reykjavík Tryggvagata 15 | D2 Gerðuberg 3-5 Vesturgata 2 | D2 Mon 10–21, Tue–Thu 10–19, Fri Mon–Thu 11–17 / Wed 11–21 / FROM REYKJAVÍK 11–19, Sat and Sun 13–17 Thu–Fri 11–17 / Sat–Sun 13–16 Reykjavík 871+/-2 www.sim.is/Index/Islenska/ www.gerduberg.is Aðalstræti 17 | D2 Artotek Open daily 10–17 Hitt Húsið Walk on the Ice side ASÍ Art Museum – Gallery Tukt Reykjavík Art Gallery Freyugata 41 | G4 Pósthússtræti 3-5 | E3 Skúlagata 28 | F6 Glacier walk:19.900 ISK Tue–Sun 13–17 www.hitthusid.is Tuesday through Sunday 14–18 Árbæjarsafn i8 Gallery Reykjavík Art Museum Kistuhylur 4 Tryggvagata 16 | D2 Open daily 10–16 Walk through Ice and Fire The Culture House Tue–Fri 11–17 / Sat 13–17 and www.listasafnreykjavikur.is Hverfisgata 15 | E4 by appointment. www.i8.is Ásmundur Sveinsson Sculp- ture Museum Sigtún Glacier walk and hot spring: 22.900 ISK Open daily 11–17 Living Art Museum www.thjodmenning.is Hafnarhús Skúlagata 28 | F6 Tryggvagata 17 | D2 Dwarf Gallery Wed, Fri–Sun 13–17 / Thu Kjarvalsstaðir Grundarstígur 21 | H6 13–22. www.nylo.is Flókagata | I7 Opening Hours: Fri and Sat Hafnarborg 18–20 Reykjavík Maritime Museum Strandgötu 34, Grandagarður 8 | C3 www.this.is/birta/dwarfgallery/ Hafnarfjörður dwarfgallery1.html Reykjavík Museum of Pho- Mokka Kaffi tography The Einar Jónsson Skólavörðustíg 3A | F4 Eiriksgata | G4 Tryggvagata 16 | D2 Weekdays 12–19 / Sat–Sun Tue–Sun 14–17 The National Gallery of Spör ehf. www.skulptur.is Iceland 13–17 - www.ljosmyndasafn- Fríkirkjuvegur 7 | F3 reykjavikur.is Gallery Ágúst Tue–Sun 11–17 Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum Baldursgata 12 | F4 www.listasafn.is Laugarnestangi 70 Wed–Sat 12–17 The National Spark, Design Space ICELANDIC MOUNTAINGUIDES www.galleriagust.is Museum Klapparstíg 33 | E4 Gallery Fold Suðurgata 41 | G1 www.sparkdesignspace.com Rauðarástígur 14-16 | G7 Open daily 10–17 TEL: +354 587 9999 · mountainguides.is Mon–Fri 10–18 / Sat 11–16 / natmus.is Sun 14–16 or visit the ITM INFORMATION AND BOOKING CENTER, Bankastræti 2 - Downtown www.myndlist.is REVIEWS Not quite breakfast, not quite lunch Brunching in Reykjavík

Is there anything quite as decadent as spoiling oneself with a luxurious brunch late on a weekend morning? The very thought of rolling out of bed later than usual and dolling oneself up first thing, starting out with a fresh and bubbly mimosa and nibbling on fluffy omelettes, grilled tomatoes and fresh and juicy fruit slices is just heavenly. Plus, brunch is a free pass for some slight gluttony—it kinda counts as two meals in one, right? For those who care to indulge a little over the weekend, brunch is served in various restaurants, including the somewhat-swank Nauthóll and, if you’d rather stay downtown, Café Paris. Bulls-eye in Nauthólsvík

Nauthóll Nauthólsvegur 106 What we think: Wonderfully decadent bunch. Flavour: Simple, fresh and smartly combined. Ambiance: Bright white and airy, Icelandic home cooking with a modern flair but slightly cramped seating Service: Professional and polite. Shark • lobster• Lamb • Whale • Puffin • fish • Wild game ALL the icelandic beers Kitchen open till midnight!

breast freshly sliced to order by a Nauthóll chef, which I accompanied with a savoury mushroom sauce. The turkey breast was a gorgeous touch and, with the scent of autumn in the air, reminded me of traditional holiday meals of my childhood. While I was entirely too satisfied to consider a heaping plate of sweets, I still strolled back to the buffet room where a more modestly sized table displayed tiramisu, a caramel cream cake, chocolate fudge squares a trio of fruit (strawberry, pineapple and melon) It was a gorgeously sunny and crisp thirds). We followed the hallway to the ready to be skewered and passed mid-morning when my date and I adjoining room where the buffet was beneath the streaming milk-chocolate Pósthússtræti 9 Reykjavík Tel: 578 2020 ventured out to Nauthólsvík for the set up and had a hard time deciding fountain. www.icelandicbar.is [email protected] Sunday brunch at the bright and airy what to go with first. It was then and OK, I ended up caving and tasting Nauthóll Bistro. With the expansive there that I developed my brunch the caramel cream cake (holy moly was deck that wraps around the one-storey buffet strategy: cold stuff, followed it ever good) and some strawberries building set aside the water one would by hot stuff, followed by dessert (yes, in liquid chocolate from the fountain, expect to cross the threshold and enter there was dessert). which were every bit as wonderful as a particularly posh summerhouse. From my cold plate I sampled one would think fresh strawberries in “They put on such a Instead, waiting on the other site of the delightful little rolls of smoked trout; chocolate to be. large glass doors is a stark white retreat two cold salads, one barley based Satisfactorily sated, my date and I beautiful meal for us. bustling with groups of girlfriends, with onion, tomatoes, bell pepper happily strolled home along the water, tri-generational families and lovey- and olives and the other comprised of already planning to spoil ourselves at We had the most amazing dovey couples all dressed sharply to many of the same veggies but based on Nauthóll again sometime very soon. sample the ample spread of salads and miniature balls of pasts that I likened Possibly next Sunday. freshest fish I’ve ever had other continental fare and hot cases to overgrown couscous; a small round brimming with bacon, eggs, roast of bread topped with cocktail shrimp; in my life. It was all so potatoes and even grilled turkey breast and the most delicious deep red and Reviews perfectly cooked too... and accompanying sauces (3.300 ISK delicate prosciutto that was drizzled Catharine Fulton for adults and 1.650 ISK for children 12 with a Dijon, balsamic blend and beautiful!” and under). crowned with rucola and pine nuts— Photography Having arrived beyond the midway heavenly! Hörður Sveinsson Jamie Oliver’s Diary point of their serving period (11:00– From the warm selection I sampled 0 Should not be considered food 15:00 every Sunday) my date and I the omelette, which was light and Edible, but not more than once spied that out fellow diners, who were fluffy and laced with greens and burst OK; not good, but not horrible either squeezed in rather tightly, had already cherry tomatoes; a couple large wedges Good, but not great. devoured their first plates and were of roast potato, which I found to be Pretty damn good rising from their seats for seconds (or slightly dry; and succulent turkey Extraordinary

Food & Drink | Venue finder AUSTURSTRÆTI 9. Tel: 561 8555

3 Frakkar Balthazar Geysir Bar/Bistro Icelandic Fish & Chips | E4 Sjávarkjallarinn

Baldursgata 14 | G4 Hafnarstræti 1-3 | D2 Aðalstræti 2 | D2 Tryggvagata 8 | B2 Aðalstræti 2 | D2 Nonnabiti Aktu Taktu Bæjarins Beztu Garðurinn Indian Mango Sólon Hafnarstræti 9 | D3 Skúlugata 15 | E6 Tryggvagata | D3 Klappastigur 37 | F4 Frakkastígur 12 | F5 Bankastræti 7a | E3 O Sushi Alibaba Brons Glætan book café Jómfrúin Sushibarinn Lækjargata 2A | E3 Veltusund 3b | D2 Pósthússtræti 9 | E3 Laugavegur 19 | F5 Lækjargata 4 | E3 Laugavegur 2 | E4 Pisa Kaffi Hljómalind American Style Café Cultura Grái Kötturinn Lækjargötu 6b | E3 Sushismiðjan Tryggvagata 26 | D2 Hverfisgata 18 | E4 Hverfisgata 16A | E4 Laugavegur 21 | E4 Geirsgötu 3 | B2 Pizza King Argentína Steakhouse Café d'Haiti Grillhúsið Kaffifélagið Svarta Kaffi Hafnarstræti 18 | D3 Barónstígur | F6 Tryggvagata 12 | D2 Tryggvagata 20 | D2 Skólavörðustígur 10 Laugavegur 54 | F5 | F5 Pizza Pronto Austurlanda- Café Loki Habibi Sægreifinn Vallarstræti 4 | E2 hraðlestin Lokastígur 28 | G4 Hafnarstræti 20 | E3 Kaffitár Verbúð 8, Geirsgata Bankastræti 8 | E4 Pizzaverksmiðjan Hverfisgata 64A | F5 Café Paris Hamborgarabúlla | B2 Lækjargötu 8 | E3 Á Næstu Grösum Austurstræti 14 | E3 Tómasar (“Bullan”) Kaffivagninn Tapas Grandagarður 10 | A1 Prikið Laugavegur 20B | E4 Café Roma Geirsgata 1 | B2 Vesturgata 3B | D2 Bankastræti 12 | E3 B5 Rauðarárstígur 8 | G7 Hlölla Bátar Kofi Tómasar Frænda Thorvaldsen Laugavegur 2 | E4 Ráðhúskaffi | E2 Bankastræti 5 | E3 Deli Ingólfstorg | D2 Austurstræti 8 | D2 Tjarnargata 11 Bakkus Bankastræti 14 | E5 Hornið Kornið Tíu Dropar Lækjargata 4 | E3 Santa Maria Tryggvagata 22 | D2 Domo Hafnarstræti 15 | D3 Laugavegur 27 | E5 Laugavegur 22A, | F5 Ban Thai Þingholtsstræti 5 | E3 Hótel Holt Krua Thai Tívolí Tryggvagata 14 | D2 Serrano Laugavegur 130 | G7 Einar Ben Bergstaðarstræti 37 Laugavegur 3 | E4 Hringbraut 12 | H3 Basil & Lime Veltusundi | E2 | G3 La Primavera Vegamót Shalimar Klapparstíg 38 | E4 Humarhúsið Austurstræti 9 | D2 Vegamótastígur 4 | E4 Eldsmiðjan Austurstræti 4 | D2 Babalú Bragagata 38A | G4 Amtmanstígur 1 | E3 Lystin Við Tjörnina Silfur Skólavörðustígur 22A Hressó Laugavegur 73 | F6 Templarasund 3 | E2 Fiskmarkaðurinn Pósthússtræti 11 | E3 | G5 Aðalstræti 12 | D2 Austurstræti 20 | E4 Mokka Vitabar Skólavörðustígur 3A Bergþórugata 21 | G5 F D For your mind, body and soul

EAT and DRINK Not so Luxurious in Paris 3 x Bakery 1 Sandholt This classy little bakery on Laugavegur is a feast for the senses. The glass case stocked with snúður, danishes, pain au raisin, chocolate lava cakes, etc. are very hard to resist. The sandwiches are pretty wonderful too. Laugavegur 36

2 Mosfellsbakarí While not conveniently located in the 101 area, this well-known bakery is well worth the drive to Mosfellsbær (or their other shop in 108). Their baked goods are always flaky and moist and gooey and sweet and delicious. Also, they deliver. Háholt 13-15, Mosfellsbær or Háaleitisbraut 58-60, Reykjavík

3 Kvosin Nestled down on Aðalstræti next door to a small grocery shop of the same name, this is the latest addition to Reykjavík’s baking scene. The big perk about this place is that they’ve got ample seating at which to enjoy the spoils of the confectioner’s ovens.Aðalstræti 6-8 3 x American Breakfast

1 Grái Kötturinn The Truck is the very embodiment of the Ristorante Italiano all-American breakfast – larger than life and gluttonous to the extreme. Grái Kötturinn does the dish right, with fluffy pancakes, eggs done the way you like’em, bacon, toast and home fries stacked high, and served with complimentary coffee. If you wake up dying of hunger, you know Madonna where to go. Hverfisgata 16a Did you know that Café Paris serves brunch every Saturday and Sunday? Café París 2 Prikið Assuming you just shouted out a Austurstræti 14 Not to be outdone, Prikið’s got a Truck of its surprised ‘no!’ I’ll admit that neither own – bacon, eggs, pancakes, potatoes, toast did I until a short while before my What we think: Not so luxurious, – to stop hunger in its tracks. For those of the brunch-mate and I walked across but still good British persuasion, the Station Wagon has your hankering for baked beans covered. Bankastræti Austurvöllur headed there for that very Flavour: Sometimes good, 12 thing. While there are three brunches sometimes bland and spongy 6 course Icelandic seafood soup, seafood from which to choose—Healthy, Ambiance: Generic café 3 Hressó Seafood Lunch Buffet pizza and a variety of fish dishes. Standard and Luxury—my dining companion and I were both feeling Service: Disinterested and dirty. While the big-breakfast item on Hressó’s Only 2.690 kr Lunch Buffet 11:30 - 14.30 menu is called “English Breakfast” it’s the size rather self-important on this particular that counts where American breakfasts are Saturday noon-hour and ordered two concerned and this is big enough to get the job Luxury Brunches (1.790 ISK) and a done. Bacon, eggs, toast, satisfaction. Madonna Rauðarárstíg 27 445-9500 www.madonna.is refreshing glass of orange juice each Austurstræti 20 (390 ISK). tasted of sweet strawberries and skyr The two brunch platters and the and was a really nice and refreshing 3 x Stuff you can’t auspiciously pale juice were delivered treat, as was the sliced melon. The crêpe get at Bónus one after the other by a waiter with off- was also pretty good, especially when 1 puttingly filthy hands as though he has spread with the strawberry jam that Mai Thai just strapped on an apron after topping came with the meal. If you’re looking for a clean break from gaudy up the oil in his car and recalibrating The omelette, on the other hand, yellow wrappers, pink pigs and Euro Shopper and your diet could use a flavour infusion look the engine, and a waitress with a was a tasteless rectangle of spongy no further than Mai Thai. Chilli paste? Check. certain knack for slamming orders as egg topped with a crispy brown layer that separated from the rest when cut A selection of fish sauces? You got it. Fun hard as can be onto the table. Maybe she labels with jovial, smiling Buddha’s on them? Of into. The marinated veggies were in thought we weren’t paying her enough course! Laugavegur 116 attention. Maybe she was just hired for actuality a blend of artichokes, sundried tomatoes and whole cloves of garlic her subtlety. I don’t know. 2 Nóatún Our Luxury Brunches came in the so drenched in herbed oil that they may as well have just been served in Nóatún has got you covered on that all too form of a large square platter on which familiar occasion when you find yourself was arranged an omelette, bacon, sliced the jar from whence they so clearly desperately in need of artichokes and canned fruit, a crêpe, roast potatoes, bread, were sprung. Also, that pale juice we mussels, or one of the many other “specialty” meat, cheeses, marinated veggies and were served was actually an extremely items not stocked in the ubiquitous grocery chains. Hringbraut 121 a smoothie. It certainly looked nice and diluted pineapple juice, not the orange some of the meals components were, juice that had been ordered in both but others could have been better. English and Icelandic. 3 Ostabúðin For a casual, no frills brunch this Starting with the good, the roast Cheese and meat aren’t meant to be vacuum R F EY one really wasn’t bad, and the price packed. Ostabúðin gets that. It’s nice to see O K potatoes were really lovely and golden T J cheeses on offer other than Gouda of varying S A was alright. But when the name says E V brown and were not at all greasy, B Í fat content and the odd havarti, and it’s even K

E ‘luxury’, you tend to expect more and, nicer to see it smack dab in the middle of 101. 2 as ‘home fries’ in other breakfast 0 H

1

T establishments can be. The smoothie in this case, that’s not what was served. Skólavörðustígur 8 0

B E OD Nordic House, Sturlugata 5, 101 Reykjavik, Tel. 6185071/8939693, www.dillrestaurant.is ST SEAFO

We exceed high expectations

Open for bistro style lunch every day from 11.30–14.00 and dinner wednesday to saturday from 19.00–22.00

The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 15 — 2010 15

state. This is a vicious circle. The public’s gies. had back in 2006, free of the greed and marathon runner, and I do not give up How do we explain it to our in- spending power decreases, so income I am not saying that how things are the overconfidence in the market that easily. I’ve said it before and I can repeat ternational readership? based on tolling and taxing imports is done isn’t important, it certainly is, but prevailed. The gospel said: “no supervi- it for Grapevine: I will resign the day I What I think happened is that firstly, lost—and then we have to pay interest of to some extent our options are very much sion, the market will correct itself, it is lose faith in our ability to solve the prob- we got addicted to an ideology. The ide- our debts. limited by our circumstances. I am con- infallible!” lems at hand, but while I still believe it is ology of neo-liberalism and blind faith A lot of what we need to do to accom- vinced that any government would have That ideology has crumbled to the doable—and I am convinced that it is—I in ‘the market’ was steadily promoted plish this can be hard and painful—and chosen a mixed way as we are doing—it’s ground. We now know what to do, and I will keep right at it. to the nation, and Icelanders adopted its we’re not finished yet—but we’ve made the only option, really. Reality takes over, think Iceland has changed a lot both in attitudes and tenets to an extreme and some great advances. Things are going and even the most hardline neo-liberals terms of political ideology and also public Marathon man blindly trod forth. well, and the situation now is a lot bet- would realise that you cannot solve these opinion. Try walking the streets and ask- You speak of marathons, climb- Iceland was, for all purposes, trans- ter than was predicted in the direct af- problems without resorting to every mea- ing pedestrians whether they support pri- ing mountains and sacrificing formed into a laboratory, a testing ground termath of the collapse. Inflation is fast sure. The choice to be political and ideo- vatisation. I predict that 90% of those you yourself for the cause of rebuild- for greedy neo-liberal, privatisation receding and our economy is straighten- logical in these times simply isn’t an op- poll will answer with a resounding no. ing Iceland... I am sure folks are ideals. They privatised the banks and ing out, so despite everything that’s gone tion. Four years ago, I think you would have generally grateful for your hard various other state enterprises alongside down in the past eighteen months we are It does matter, however, how you gotten reverse results. An ideology had work, but are you sure this is pushing an environment of deregulation definitely on the right track, even if it is choose to do the things that need to be been bashed into the nation’s head, the a healthy way to work? What and lax supervision. A group of young a big struggle. I don’t want to credit the done, how you implement the necessary state had been relentlessly talked down is your average workday like? and energetic men surfaced that took state treasury or me as Finance Minister changes. For instance, we are trying our and the market glorified. They laid a lot People say you’re always on the advantage of this environment to the full with our success, but we have still have utmost to preserve our welfare system of groundwork for that ideology, which job... extent. All of the sudden we were the best managed to solve a lot of problems con- and shield it from cutbacks—we are cut- has now collapsed. I am at the office from before eight in the world, we were experts at banking nected to the ministry. ting half as much from the budget of so- in the morning and usually at least un- and finance and thought we could teach This is where the biggest and hardest cial services, education and police than Damaged til dinnertime, often I spend the evening established nations, like Denmark, how problems created by the banking collapse other areas. We are showing it through It is pleasing to note that the discourse here too. I frequently work weekends, and to do business. We were beset by a puerile wound up to be resolved—aside from our taxation methods by adding taxation now is more open and critical than it you could say that I barely took a day off and nouveau riche arrogance, an entire running the state treasury and managing to those in the highest income bracket used to be. We are not going to be treated last year. I have no vacation to speak of; generation lost all moral restraint. People problems related to that, our banks went while sparing the lowest one by introduc- like this again. This is good, and I won’t I get the occasional weekend off. I avoid flaunted their wealth and boasted of it, bankrupt so we needed to reconstruct ing a special low-income bracket. We are complain that us in the government or going abroad unless it’s absolutely neces- they could only travel in private jets and them. The Ministry of Finance handled trying to preserve the standard of living me personally are subject to constant sary, when I need to protect our interests the flamboyance and vulgarity surround- all that work and the negotiations con- for those that make the least money. This criticism. People are keeping a close and or negotiate with foreign nations or inter- ing Iceland was such that it got noticed nected to it. is where politics enters the sphere; this is critical watch, and this is good. The only national foundations. the world round. where they’re important. thing that worries me is that the Kreppa This year, I’ve made an effort to Their dishonest business practices Processing the collapse We haven’t had a lot of choices, and is now stuck in our heads, that we are too maintain a slightly more normal work- along with the government’s many fail- We also are in charge of the horrible Ic- I am totally convinced that the Indepen- focused on our ing routine, and ures in managing the economy added to eSave affair that remains unsolved, and dence Party, that bears so much respon- problems. A lot that’s working a problem that was too big to handle. One we needed to negotiate with foreign states sibility for the collapse after its eighteen of good things You may foster an so and so... the only needed to look at the gauges to see and central banks to receive currency years in power, isn’t fit to undertake are happening, workday is long, where we were headed in 2006-7, to see loans. We also handle a big part of the In- this task. They don’t have the credibil- and we must not ideology and lots and of course it’s things were going seriously wrong. ternational Monetary Fund negotiations, ity, people would remember. A change ignore that. tiring. I wouldn’t Some people tried to point this out, we’re restoring the savings banks... these in government back in 2009 wasn’t only But many pil- of ideas on how want to burn the occasional banker or scholar—and are all hard and complicated tasks that are inevitable, it was absolutely necessary. lars of our soci- myself out, but myself. I wrote articles, I gave speeches, added to the ministry’s day to day duties. ety are damaged to do things, but fortunately I am I wrote an entire book where I warned of We’ve worked towards assisting the McDonalds no more? by the collapse. they ultimately relatively healthy the path we were taking. But we were too economy, helping businesses and homes There seems to be a certain Our politics and I have good few. The environment and zeitgeist at the through troubles. We’re trying to work determinism at work when you are in a state of clash with reality. stamina. time was such that warning voices were beyond just putting out fires and solving claim you don’t have a choice, shock, you could So I laughed off, at best. This was a dangerous problems, presenting new ideas such as yet it is evident that many of your say our entire po- plan on main- atmosphere, any healthy introspection or tax breaks for start-ups and innovators, party members are ideologi- litical system is damaged, as the munici- taining the juice in my batteries. I can’t self-criticism was totally absent. I have and we introduced stimulating measures cally motivated. Were you never pal elections in Reykjavík showed. One of hide that it’s trying, and it’s not just the remarked that what happened at the core to increase demand for contractors, rais- tempted to... try something new? the things that crashed is faith in society. work that affects you. The environment was the complete defeat of critical think- ing VAT rebates for construction and Don’t you imagine some of them There is a lot of suspicion and distrust and atmosphere surrounding the job is ing. We lost control of ourselves and of restoration work. We are sending out the had hopes you would? around; it is inevitable when such things also a factor. We are not immune to the the situation, and it can never be allowed message that now is a good time to build You can’t place too deep a meaning in happen, when something happens that discourse and various jabs pointed at us, to happen again. or renovate, and the state is supporting my words when I say that we are subject shouldn’t happen, that must not happen. but I try to maintain an understanding You can analyse this from various per- that with tax breaks... I could go on. to our circumstances. In this instance we And people naturally feel like they’ve that the public’s vocal dissatisfaction and spectives. The economical one, but also We’ve started an innumerable do not get to choose the battlefield or the been betrayed. That a lot of people let our status in the polls doesn’t necessarily from a political, ideological and social amount of these kinds of measures, and tasks at hand, the collapse determined them down, and there is a lot of truth in mean that people are unhappy with what standpoint. It is important that we don’t any claims that this government has been that. We have a job to do, and our first re- that, as the SIC Report reveals very clear- we’re doing or that it could be any differ- overlook any of these factors when we try inactive are wrong, simply put. We have sponsibility is to defend our society and ly. We have a lot of work on our hands ent. to understand what happened here. worked very hard, under very difficult cir- its interiors, to ensure that every aspect of reclaiming what was lost, to reconstruct I try to remember that there is so cumstances. Of course this has been try- it is functioning and that we see our way not only the material entities but also re- much repressed rage and unhappiness, The never-ending party ing; it has been a busy and unbelievable out of these troubles. That’s number one. store trust and faith in our community, people are angry over what happened and You say you warned that this time. And on top all this, we have been That’s not to say we don’t have con- so people can start trusting Parliament, it is normal to criticise the powers that be would happen, but you evidently investigating the collapse and what lead victions on how society should work, we regulatory agencies and the media again. at any time. had no success. Do you feel you to it, the SIC [Special Investigative Com- have plenty of those and no one should Of course there are many that believe should have employed different mittee] Report, the Special Prosecutor; imagine even for a second that we are re- “I will keep at this” we could have done more, for instance to methods? there are a lot of things to tend to in terms building the same society that collapsed, Do you honestly believe that assist families with their debt. There a lot Well... [laughs]... I’ve thought a lot of processing the collapse. or the same economy. We aren’t. We are you’ll be given a chance to finish of talk regarding that, and it is hard to be about that. Truth be told, I am troubled So to sum it up, you could say our task for instance re-building banks at a tenth your work? The Independence in the position to have to say that we are by it and feel like I need to look inwards, is threefold: to keep things running, to of the size they were when they crashed. Party hasn’t polled higher since trying our best but we simply cannot do just like others. Why did we, who saw the investigate the collapse and its causes, The financial system will now be owned before the collapse, it seems to more. This is our reality. There are limits signs, who knew something was deeply and laying the foundations of a renais- by the state again, after it had been pri- be widely accepted that you will to what we can do; we are in a difficult wrong, why did we fail in getting our sance. And I think it’s going very well, vatised with horrible results. We have a finish this term and then return position. We will have to slowly defeat voices heard. even though the situation is still fragile... clear vision of where we are heading: to- to your former place in the op- this thing, we will have to be patient, When I try to seek explanation I feel wards a Nordic welfare society, away from position... understanding and maintain unity. We it isn’t because I didn’t try hard enough. No room for ideology toying with neo-liberal ideas and Ameri- Well, if we manage to finish this gain nothing from strife and struggle; we I resorted to every mean at my disposal, I Following the discourse, and canisation. term, which I hope, I do believe we are need to row together on the same boat, in wrote articles, I gave speeches, I put forth especially in terms of what the We are experiencing a clear turning best suited to follow this work through. If the right direction. We can do this. several motions in Parliament to try and opposition is saying, it wouldn’t point in our political history; Iceland is we manage to get Iceland through these reclaim economic stability. I submitted seem like you’re doing all that heading in a different direction than it difficulties, which we are well on our way But all marathons have a fin- the first one in 2005, I was deeply wor- much, nor that you’ve had any was in the years before the crash. I say to doing, we can look back on that work ishing line... where do you see ried about the situation back then and in success. Based on their criti- that we are returning home. And where and say: See! We took over their ruins, yours? the accompanying statement I portrayed cisms and their track record, is home? It is in the Nordic family, with a and we restored order, we resurrected Our ultimate goal is to get our society the risks facing us. I even explicitly say in can you imagine what a coali- strong Nordic, mutually responsible wel- Iceland. and our economy back in working order, one place: “All the same signs are appear- tion between the Progressives fare system. These are our politics, just so That will be a decent reward in itself. to envision being on top of our debt and ing in Iceland that lead to the Scandina- and The Independents would be that’s clear. I can’t really ask for more than when all not needing outside help, to get unem- vian banking recession around 1990. We doing? Would their measures be this is through I can stand proud and ployment down to reasonable numbers. are headed for the same kind of bubble, any different, in your view? Quick change? rightfully exclaim: I did all I could, I sac- There is more than one goal; we will mea- which is very dangerous.” I am not sure of that. As I have said, Just how fast we can accomplish these rificed myself to this task, I spent all my sure our success incrementally. A nation One of the reasons this was so hard reality takes over in the end. You may fos- changes—can we revolutionise the sys- time, my energy, my efforts on restoring does not live to fulfil a single goal; it is was that there were so few of us that ac- ter an ideology and lots of ideas on how to tem while we are trying to keep it from Iceland. I did my best. a constant evolving story with peaks and tively opposed this ideology. It had a nice do things, but they ultimately clash with collapsing entirely—that is an altogether And I do believe that if one compares valleys. ring to it, and claimed to usher in a new reality. trickier subject. I think we are going to the current situation to what we were fac- era of globalisation, innovation and evo- In a situation such as ours, people have to accept that this is a long road to ing by the end of 2008, to what was pre- WTF! lution. The party was so fun that nobody have to be realistic, face it as it is and seek recovery we are on. When we are done dicted in terms of the economy, it gives What happened? You are privy wanted to ruin it and say: “Alright, it’s out the solutions and methods that are restoring and rebuilding our politics and great reason for optimism. We need to to a lot of information that the two in the morning and we all need to go available, to pick the comparatively best ideologies will be clear. We want a soci- keep that in mind. general public isn’t, so it seems home.” It was like everyone thought the ones. That leaves little room for ideolo- ety that is entirely different from what we I am both a mountain climber and a fair to ask: What happened? party would last forever; that there would The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 15 — 2010 16

always be enough champagne and we I honestly can’t complain about our Cooperation, compromise of them are saying in their let- Herding cats would never have to pay the tab. cooperation thus far, it’s been an objec- As an MP throughout the years— ters and phone calls to us—that PM Jóhanna Sigurðardóttir al- But all parties come to an end, and tive one and we have been able to affect and let’s not forget you are the our Directorate of Immigration is legedly said that working with then you need to clean up the mess and their plan and adapt it to our wishes in longest serving MP aside from one of the most inhumane insti- the Left Greens was like herding pay your bills. This is what we’re doing. many ways. But of course it isn’t anything our Prime Minister—you’ve tutions currently operating. That cats... do you have an equally And of course it is remarkable that anyone would wish for, to be dependent seemed very ideologically driv- it shows no regard for personal poetic description of your coop- my party and I—who were the most vo- on such an organisation, and I will cel- en. You abandoned the formative situations of individuals, opting eration with the Social Demo- cal critics of this ideology and really the ebrate the day we are through with their talks for the Social Democratic instead to treat them as num- crats? only party that actively opposed it—that program and aren’t reliant on them any- Alliance back in the ‘90s—an at- bers on a piece of paper. People This comment, it was something it would be up to us to clean the house more. tempt to unify the left under one are being deported with some that someone supposedly said at some and foot the bill. But that’s just how it is. banner—opting to start a party very questionable reasoning, time and the PM repeated. Oh, I don’t re- Someone needs to do it, and it’s impor- Will Parliament ever grow that would be closer to your ide- and then the process of immi- ally pay attention to such nonsense. As a tant that it’s done well. I do think, how- up? als, to name one example. Yet grating to Iceland from outside whole, our cooperation has worked well, ever, that the people that threw the party Speaking of Parliament, I as a now you are part of a govern- of the Schengen area seems all at least things have always been good be- and sent out the invitations are not the citizen—along with many of my ment that has done many things but impossible. It seems like the tween the PM and I, which is important. right people to clean it up. friends—often cringe when ob- that seem to directly counter island has been fenced off with I believe that we have full confidence in serving Parliament at work and what you’ve made yourself out barbed wire... one another and that our relationship an Rumours noting the work methods that to stand for. Yes, there might be something to all honest one. And in general our people are I heard a rumour shortly after you seem to be employed. From this... However, I don’t want to accept that working well together in committees and took over, which said you were my perspective—and I am not You said earlier that during the Directorate of Immigration’s proce- elsewhere. trying to make sense of what had alone—it reeks of amateur- times of crisis there may not be dures are as bleak as you say; on the con- Then we have our differences and happened to Iceland, that you ism, especially during debates. a lot of room for ideology, but trary we were determined to fix a lot of problems; it’s no secret that we have been are trying to clean up the mess Watching this group of adults how can you remain convincing things there. And I think that despite ev- faced with some very taxing problems, but it simply wasn’t possible. attempt to work is a baffling and when you say one thing when erything, our former Minister of Justice and that has added strain to the relation- That you were telling folks it was embarrassing experience, one you’re an MP and quite another Ragna Árnadóttir did a lot of good things ship between the parties. the biggest bank robbery in the sometimes wishes they would when you’ve become a minister in this field. She took over a difficult But I don’t believe that us Left Greens history of the world, worse than just shut up and do their jobs al- and finally have the power to in- ministry after [former Minister of Jus- are constantly forced to compromise ac- anything people had heard hap- ready.... stigate change. There are many tice, Independence Party member] Björn cording the Social Democrats will, as pened in Argentina and other This is a rather tricky subject... the examples, like your government Bjarnason’s long stint there. But we have some have insinuated. places we’d heard horror stories aforementioned Parliamentary commit- apparently allowing ECA, a pri- accomplished a lot of reform in this field The current situation would strain about... is this true? tee makes remarks that Parliament’s po- vate military training corpora- since taking over, that is a fact. We paid any government. That is self-evident. We Well, the events that unfolded here... sition needs to be strengthened and the tion, to set up shop here. a lot of attention to the topic and worked have been regularly subject to a differ- they are unparalleled in world history. We conditions for sophisticated work meth- Well. We are part of a coalition gov- together with the minister on amending ent and major catastrophe, day after day, keep hearing that our banks account for ods improved. And they also severely crit- ernment, and such cooperation always several problems. month after month—it is important to re- the sixth, ninth and tenth largest bank- icise the political culture—if one could calls for some compromise. It’s a natural We set out to put these matters in as main calm and sensible, to confront the ruptcies ever. It is nonsensical that such call it a culture—that has been dominant part of being in government and work- good a condition as is possible, but our issues as they come along and try solving a small economy can foster three bank- here. I think that there’s a lot of truth to ing with other parties, you won’t accom- possibilities are certainly limited by the them without resorting to panic. ruptcies out of the top ten. The banks had what they’re saying. We need to make se- plish everything you would like. And this fact that we are cooperating with Europe It has been like this for almost two grown so absurdly large and inflated. rious amends. means you have a choice: are you willing on these matters and Europe has instated years now. I frequently wake up in the So in that sense these events will And the criticism that’s being direct- to make that sacrifice, to serve your high- certain rules that we have committed to morning without any idea what trouble certainly go down in world history, that ed at Parliament and the public’s lack of er ideals, to never be willing to negotiate following. We chose to look to Norway, lurks ahead, it’s been one major event such a tiny economy can experience trust in it is partially justified... but par- with others or make a compromise...? because it is our opinion that they are after the other and I just try to leave the such a vast collapse. I will not compare tially not. That is a stance in itself, but it follows doing the best job of handling their im- house with that in mind. A volcano might us to other countries, but I advise people One of the problems is the image the that parties that revert to this method are migration affairs. And we for instance erupt, a Supreme Court verdict might to read the SIC Report’s findings about media portrays of Parliament and the permanently relinquishing any attempts ceased deporting refugees to Greece. Like cause severe civil unrest, IceSave, her- the banks, and to read the charges being face it frequently shows the nation. It is at influence through being in power and the Norwegians, we waited for an assess- ring disease... you just try to remain calm pressed by Glitnir’s estate against that negative. Attention is most often directed in government. It means abandoning the ment on the situation in Greece before and do your job. This has been an event- bank’s managers—where they straight at debates that occur at the start of Par- chance of acquiring a position to make a proceeding. We now work under the rule ful and demanding time, one I think no out say that they robbed the bank from liamentary sessions, and what happens lot of things on their wish list happen, it that every case be looked at individually Member of Parliament—no Icelander for within. That they used their ownership there honestly won’t win us any respect. means settling for a life in opposition. I and family circumstances and others be that matter—will ever forget. to fleece it from the inside. And they did That doesn’t change the fact our MPs are happen to be familiar with both being in taken into account. this with large, established companies turning in a lot of work that’s generally opposition and part of a government, this I do know that a lot of people are Anger, rage, sorrow too. well prepared and thought out. And the is not my first time as a minister, and I unhappy with these affairs still, and de- They bought firms in good stand- greater part of our MPs contribute sub- know what each role entails. As soon as porting someone will always be painful Do you ever get angry about the ing, like Eimskip and Icelandair, and in stantially to important tasks regarding you cooperate with someone, you are go- and difficult. But we have to work within situation? About the way things a matter of years they had transformed legislation and resolving issues. The ma- ing to have to compromise your ideals. some sort of regulatory framework. turned out? them into empty shells encasing a pile jority of the cases we handle we handle in If you are putting out a fire, you don’t We also must remember that if we Anger is not a big motivating factor of debt. Their methodology, of extracting agreement. care so much what colour your water plan on hosting international refugees, for me. I think it’s important to remain the valuables from the companies, accu- Maybe this is where Parliament needs bucket is. You just have to keep your we need to do it in a decent manner, and calm and serene, that is the only way I mulating debt and using it as leverage to get a grip; we need to resolve these mi- house from burning down. But once the we must be capable and equipped to do can do my job. That said, yes, of course for other investments, etc., it was truly nor issues using the platforms we have, fire starts dying down you can be more so. There needs to be an ambition to do I get angry. When confronted with infor- an unbelievable culture. And it is surely in our committees and during party picky with your buckets, maybe purchase it well and the oversight to handle every mation or evidence of gross misconduct unparalleled in the world, at least at such meetings instead of bickering about some environmentally friendly buckets unique case so that new Icelanders are or criminal negligence. Sorrow is a more a hypercharged version. them in Parliamentary sessions. If we for the next round of firefighting. capable of easily adapting to our society common reaction with me when I learn did that, I believe the public’s perception And it might be noted that even de- and building a new life here. how things were done here, how the na- IMF! IMF! IMF! OMG! OMG! of Parliament would be very different. As spite these difficult circumstances we tion’s well-being was continually and What about the IMF. One hears it is now, we are spending way too much as a government and Parliamentary Are there any plans to reconsid- recklessly endangered. I get sad or angry. many ugly stories of their in- time publicly arguing about work meth- majority have made several reformatory er our current regulatory struc- I was furious the day I read the SIC volvement with developing na- ods, procedure, scheduling and the like. changes, for instance in the field of hu- ture concerning immigration? report. I had planned on being coolhead- tions and nations in crisis, of With all due respect, but you do realise man rights and women’s rights, changes Yes, I think that’s rather likely and as ed about it but wound up really angry. selling off resources, privatisa- the people are sending around clips of that were inconceivable during the reign I have said we are first and foremost try- You could probably tell from my speech tion and the like. Now they’ve [Minister of Fisheries and Agriculture] of our previous governments as the Inde- ing to ensure that we are handling these at Alþingi that day. Why was I angry? It opened an office here and are Jón Bjarnason being interviewed... and pendence Party would veto them every affairs in the best possible way. The dis- screamed out at me. It was all so familiar. working with the government... laughing at him. He seems to be widely time. course around it needs to be calm and Everything I was trying to say, all the ig- do you think it’s strange that considered a joke... Can you name specific exam- informed, and we need to realise that nored warning signs. In hindsight, it was people are afraid of this fund That’s an entirely different matter. We are ples? there are two opposing factors that need so evident that we were headed for catas- with its track record, and do you all different, we all have our own style of We criminalised the purchase of pros- consideration. On one hand we want to trophe, literally all the signs were point- believe what is said about it in- communicating and talking. People are titution, we outlawed stripping, we now be able to contribute to aiding those in ing towards that. When I was reminded ternationally? free to amuse themselves however they have one matrimony law for everyone. need, to offer suffering refugees a place of that, I was furious. It is true that it has a spotty track want, but I do not want to standardise The Minister of Justice no longer can ar- to stay and live their lives; and to keep Ice- record and I’ll be the first to admit that. Parliament and fill it with cloned types bitrarily appoint judges according to his land open to international influence and At who? Your predecessors? I was against seeking its assistance, I that are all the same. It is important that will, we abolished that power and now immigration. On the other there is a risk Voters? would have liked to explore every other Parliament represents all aspects of soci- judges are appointed by a committee of that if we do not carefully tend to these At everything, really. Things hap- option, but we had already entered an ety and provides a cross-section of it, that professionals. I could go on... affairs that they will wind up fanning the pened that should not and cannot and agreement with them when we took over. it contains both men and women, young flames of racism, prejudice and social may not happen. Things should never And I do think that a lot has changed people and older people. Folks with dif- Human rights unrest. turn out so badly at the cost of so many, within the IMF. It is very aware that it is ferent backgrounds that come from dif- Staying on the theme of human Adding to that, I must admit, I have requiring such great sacrifices. It is clear working with one of the Nordic welfare ferent sectors of society. The last thing rights. The brunt of our readers always had certain worries regarding Ice- that a lot of people failed tremendously, states, an open, democratic Nordic so- I want to see is Parliament being filled are foreigners from all over the landers in those matters. An unpleasant one cannot reach any other conclusion. ciety. This is a new school for the IMF; with male lawyers aged 35–45, which has world, and many of them have a feeling in the back of my neck tells me And of course it’s easy to get outraged or they are well aware that they are being sometimes seemed to be the ambition of mind to make Iceland their home, that we maybe would not display exem- depressed over such events. But it is im- watched by the international community certain parties. That’s not the Parliament to work here, raise families and plary behaviour... portant to remain calm. To wrestle each and they would be disgraced if they be- I want to see. contribute to our society. And it problem as it comes along. No one will haved belligerently. seems—according to what a lot gain anything from empty anger. KRINGLAN · 591-5320 · WWW.SKIFAN.IS The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 15 — 2010 By Dr. Gunni (Based on his book Eru ekki allir í stuði from 2001) 18

Dr. Gunni's History Of Icelandic Rock | Part 23

Life Outside The Mainstream (1982–1985)

Bubbi Morthens and Utangarðsmenn hit the dull sugarcoated Icelandic pop scene in 1980, spreading raw excite- ment in their wake. Almost overnight all the seventies pop stars seemed passé. In 1981, the new rock scene exploded with bands such as Þeyr, Purrkur Pill- nikk, Tappi Tíkarrass, Fræbbblarnir and Jonee Jonee doing their best stuff. The wave was perfectly captured in the doc- umentary film 'Rokk í Reykjavík,' which was premiered in April of 1982. After that, things started to fade out. The rise and demise of Kukl has already been documented in these pages, and next time I plan to tell the story of my own band, S. H. Draumur, which struggled on in 1982–1986 to little fanfare.

The ‘mainstream’ returns - Disappointment Things were getting seriously "main- stream" all over again. Rás 2, a “pop" branch of Icelandic State Radio, com- menced broadcasting in December 1983. Up to that point, "pop music" had not been a priority on the only radio sta- tion in Iceland, ‘The Steam,’ as it was nicknamed. Some people thought the new station would tend to fresh sounds, but soon it was obvious that it mainly took care of what was already popular. The seventies fun rockers Stuðmenn— who had been dormant since 1976—had a massive comeback with their musi- cal comedy ‘Með allt á hreinu’ (aka ‘On Top’). It premiered before Christmas in 1982 and more than half the island’s population would eventually go see it at the cinemas. Stuðmenn would go on to be the nation’s darlings during the eighties and nineties—often referred to as "The band of the people". Stuðmenn lay the foundation for the "Icelandic pop sound," a well that many bands have drunk from ever since. “Oxsmá was about the most exciting thing in Vonbrigði (“Disappointment”) were four young guys that came from the Iceland from 1982–1985” Licensing and Breiðholt suburbs. Brothers Tóti and Árni on drums and guitar, bassist Gunni son played guitar, and Óskar "Skari" Hörður "Popcorn" Bragason on Ham- registration of travel- and cocky singer Jói. They had gained Jónasson occasionally blew a sax and mond organ became steady members. some fame belting out the opening tune behaved like an idiot. When drummer of Rokk í Reykjavík—the anthem "Ó Kormákur "Kommi" Geirharðsson was “Clever Kitty, drunk in a bath related services Reykjavík," with lyrics by poet Didda, added to the equation the band finally tub” who wrote many of the band's lyrics. clicked. Kommi had played with a cool The Oxsmá guys were multi talents. Vonbrigði leaned towards the Gang of The Icelandic Tourist Board issues licences to tour operators and travel agents, new wave group, Taugadeildin (“The They made two films, first the sci-fi hor- Four/Killing Joke-school of hard post as well as issuing registration to booking services and information centres. Neurotic Ward” – one fine EP released ror short ‘The Oxsmá Planet,’ followed punk and were furiously excellent. The in 1981), and punk group turned new by the ambitious feature ‘Suck Me Nina,’ Tour operators and travel agents are required to use a special logo approved band released two records during their romantic band Q4U. Lead by singer Ellý a drama comedy that was set in the Ice- by the Icelandic Tourist Board on all their advertisements and on their Internet eighties life span, a 4 track 7" EP in 1982 this fine group released a 12" EP in 1983 landic hippie years. The "feel" of this film website. and the seven track ‘Kakófónía’ EP in and is in the midst of a comeback right would some years later be repeated in Booking services and information centres are entitled to use a Tourist 1983. Neither managed to capture the now. Óskar Jónasson's much loved Sódóma Board logo on all their material. The logos below are recognised by the true essence of the band as they record- Oxsmá took their cue from The Reykjavík comedy. Besides "normal" Icelandic Tourist Board. ed the newest songs in their repertoire Cramps and the other punk rockabilly concerts Oxsmá would stage arty the- and were too in awe of the studio effect acts of the early eighties and at first atre shows and make environmental possibilities to just keep it real. Vonbrigði tended more to their looks than to their sculptures. List of licenced Tour split up in 1985 but reformed in the ‘00s. Operators and Travel music. After doing ultra slow versions Oxsmá released a cassette in 1983 Agencies on: The band has released two CDs of new of "Fire" and other rockabilly classics, entitled ‘Bible For The Blind.’ It had sixty visiticeland.com music and new, almost heavy metal ver- original material started to pop up in minutes of exciting lo-fi killembilly, in- sions of their old songs. Oxsmá's program. They called their mu- cluding a song sung by an uncredited sic "Killembilly," and tellingly their lyrics Bubbi Morthens, who just happened to The rise of ‘Killembilly’ (written by Keli) were tongue in cheek come by the rehearsal space. A cassette Oxsmá was about the most exciting funny, often about horrible stuff and of the ‘Suck Me Nina’ soundtrack was thing in Iceland from 1982–1985. The sex with titles (in Icelandic) like "Bibi's also released (Oxsmá doing their own group had formed in the Reykjavík Art Tits" and "Bits of Elsa." More members take on Icelandic hippie rock). 1985 School in 1980, but didn't start to play joined, Danny Pollock fresh from his saw the band's only record, a 3 track live until 1982. Hrafnkell "Keli" Sig- Utangarðsmenn stint played guitar for EP called ‘Rip Rap Rup.’ On the A side urðsson sang, Axel "Seli" Jóhannes- a while, and bassist Jón Skuggi and Keli sang once more about a girl, this There are a lot of time she was called Kittý (in Icelandic, positive reviews of course): "Thirteen years old / kinky about BanThai costume / what a perfume / clever Kitty that we are / drunk in a bath tub / chocolate." the best thai restaurant Oxsmá's final concert was at Hó- tel Borg in July 1985. Soon afterwards, Keli and Skari went to London to attend Authentic Thai cuisine All same price art and film schools. The coolest look- served in elegant surroundings ing Icelandic band ever hasn't returned with Spicy, Very Delicious 999.- since, and unfortunately none of their and reasonable prices. Smaralind music or films are available to the gen- 5544-633 eral public. You can hear some of it on Private rooms on the 2nd floor. YouTube, though. Open Hours and Hverfisgata Top Vonbrigði on a rare occasion outside of 18.00–22.00. Every day. # 123 Reykjavík. From left: Gunni, Jói, Árni (squat- 588-2121 Tel; 692-0564, 5522-444 - ting) and Tóti. The three great places for Thai food Left Oxsmá at Laugavegur in 1985. They of- ten busked in Reykjavík. From left: Hörður, Kommi, Jón, Seli, Skari and Keli. Surrealistic poet Sjón – a big fan – stands wearing cool www.yummiyummi.net shades between Seli and Skari. The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 15 — 2010 19

Music | CD Reviews

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Ólöf Arnalds sounds less mainstream Amiina venture into new musical horizons than other Icelandic singer-songwriters with ‘puzzle’, their second full-length al- such as Emiliana Torrini or Lay Low; bum. The male infusion of Magnús Tryg- however, her music remains no less gvason Elíassen on drums and electronic relatable. She pieces songs together with artist Kippi Kaninus brings a notably big- more craftsmanship than other acoustic ger, gutsier sound, progressing from the musicians concerned with just verses, lighter, string based arrangements many bridges, and choruses. ‘Innundir skinni’, a might be familiar with from their previous collection of nine well-composed songs, work, as well as their collaborations with is no exception. Ólöf smartly chose Kjar- Sigur Rós. tan Sveinsson of Sigur Rós to reprise his The albums’ fusion of drums, elec- role as producer on her second album. tronic compositions and subtle strings As a result, ‘Innundir skinni’ sounds more makes for a stunningly good effect. The polished than ‘Við og við’, with more opening track ‘ásinn’, perhaps one of the instrumentation while still staying true to best, combines fresh electronic beats Ólöf´s modest acoustic sound. with an almost oriental accordion riff, in a Stand out tracks include ‘Crazy Car’, blend that excites and surprises in equal ‘Vinkonur’, ‘Svif birki’ and ‘Surrender’. measure. It’s one of those tinglers that ‘Crazy Car’ showcases Ólöf's talent for get the hair standing on the back of the writing simple yet compelling lyrics in neck. On ‘over and again’, delicate vocals English, while ‘Vinkonur’ and ‘Svif Birki’ and strings are cleverly offset with a well- are excellent minimalist compositions balanced drumbeat, similarly on ‘púsl’. featuring finger-picked, stringed instru- Amiina manage to maintain this momen- ments. And Ólöf holds her own singing a tum and, enjoyably darker, atmosphere duet with Björk on ‘Surrender’. The songs for much of the album, particularly on the without lyrics (in Icelandic or English), track ‘sicsak’. ‘Vinur minn’ and ‘Allt í gúddí’, don’t sound However, just at the mid-way point as finished as the rest of the tracks on when its got you right in the palm of its the album. hands and you’re just dying to know what Ólöf treats her voices as another happens next, the album pulls back into instrument and are not afraid to indulge more familiar territory, with a notable in- in their higher pitched vocal ranges. crease in the use of twinkly glockenspiel- Never stagnant or dull, ‘Innundir skinni’ like bells and saws. A bit of a downer conjures a number of moods—playful, after the previous highs, it’s almost like curious, melancholy, ethereal—making they got a bit scared of how expansive it Adventure tours Scheduled flights Air charter services the album a solid second release. It’s an sounded and pulled back into their com- album you can listen to over and over and fort zone. This feeling peaks at ‘mambó’, pick out new sounds and instruments which with its electronic drone, repetitive every time. tambourine and lackadaisical ‘la-la- - emily burton laaing’ makes for a boring track and the albums low point. Overall though, Amiina Visit the have dipped their toes into a really fresh sound with ‘puzzle’, and when they just let go and really commit to that transition Westman it works incredibly well. - Eimear Fitzgerald Islands Scheduled flights and day tours every day

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Films | Theaters

Cinema Paradiso Iceland's first art house cinema opens its doors to film buffs, and the rest of us

Words Wiebke Wolter

Photography Hörður Sveinsson

A few left over champagne glasses on the counter are the sole evidence of the previous night’s big opening party for Bíó Paradís. Without yesterday’s crowd of housewarming guests, we are able to view the new cinema in all its glory. Images of Al- fred Hitchcock, Marilyn Monroe and other icons of film history look down on the visitors from the red-painted walls. Retro couches, an old piano and a collection of film posters turn this unspec- tacular building into a cosy place to hang out. The Grapevine is here to learn about Bíó Paradís from the new cinema’s programme director, filmmaker and -critic Ásgrímur Sverrisson.

This cinema was known as Regnboginn until fi- nally closing down last June. Now it’s re-opening as Bíó Paradís. Why didn’t you keep the old name? We have a completely different mission. This is the first cinema of its kind in Iceland. It's true, Regnboginn started as kind of an art cinema, but Festival (RIFF), starting next week, and smaller interest and regard for film culture is very low. not by choice. When it opened in 1977, the other festivals like Reykjavik Short Film Days, Short & But there are a few people here—I would guess Ticket Prices & Discount Cards cinemas had the big studio contracts, so basically Docs and the Nordisk Panorama. We also want that it is about 10–15.000 people—that appreciate Bíó Paradís offers a range of discounts for regular Regnboginn couldn't get any of their films and to put on our own festivals, by showing films ac- a variety in film. I think this is a large percent- visitors. had no choice but to buy independent films. In- cording to themes, such as the ones we are now age, compared to the population. We want to bring Regular price : 1150 ISK. dependent doesn't simply mean just art films. A showing about Reykjavík and its music scene. these people together to create a growing commu- lot of big event movies were actually independent, Fourth, providing film history education is a very nity. That’s our mission, and it is a very ambitious Member card: 2500 ISK like Rambo, for example. Regnboginn didn't have important part of our mission. Next year we will one. We have no idea if it will work or not. But what You get 10% of every ticket you buy; one ticket is in- cluded in the price. an arthouse profile, and eventually become more hopefully start screening films for children, both we are really worried about is, that people will say: and more a mainstream cinema. Although the in elementary school and high school, as part of “Oh it's so nice to have this cinema, yeah, I will Bronze subscription: 13 800 ISK name Regnboginn actually describes our ethos the curriculum. Education about film history has definitely go!”—and then they never go. Now it You buy fifteen tickets, that is 920 ISK per ticket (20% off). well—a rainbow has many colours and stands for been completely neglected in Iceland. is 17:15, (turns around to the young men selling variety—we changed the name to Bíó Paradís to tickets by the entrance) did anyone buy a ticket? Silver subscription: 17 500 ISK have a clean break. Do you think there will be an audience for the Oh, yes? We sold a couple of tickets? So we are not You buy twenty tickets, that is 875 ISK per ticket (24% off). kinds of films you plan on showing here? completely dead! Can you describe these ‘different colours’ of Bíó This is what we are excited about finding out—will Ásgrímur looked like he was joking, but he Gold subscription: 23 250 ISK Paradís? anybody come? In Iceland, cinemas get 5.3 visits displayed hints of concern at the same time. Bíó You buy thirty tickets, that is 775 ISK per ticket (32% off). We have four things we want to emphasise. Firstly, per capita, which is the highest rate in the world. Paradís got a grant from the city council to get the we are going to screen the latest arthouse films But this is very deceptive. The main audience is cinema started, but if the theatre manages to es- There are also special subscription cards available from world cinema. Two, we are going to have a comprised of 15–25 year olds, and they make about tablish itself it will depend only on a paying audi- for RIFF. big repertory section, starting with the French 20, 30 or 40 visits per year. Older people go quite ence for sustenance. New Wave films—the big guns. Third we are go- infrequently. Also the films on offer are around ing to act as home to the film festivals in Reyk- 85% from Hollywood, 10% Icelandic, and only 5% javík, including the Reykjavík International Film are art films or documentaries. The result is that

Films | Interview It's My Responsibility To Focus on Unknown Bands Vincent Moon visits Iceland

Parisian filmmaker Mathieu Saura, better grew up in Paris and after high school I ended up by my hand at music videos. I was especially inspired known as Vincent Moon, catapulted to fame accident in film school. After a year there I attended by the photographer Antoine d'Agatha, who does after shooting The Arcade Fire playing in an a photo class for four hours, one night a week. It some really violent, radical stuff. I knew there was elevator, resulting in collaborations with art- changed my life. That's where I discovered the situ- something missing for me, it was the interaction. ists such REM, Sufjan Stevens and Sigur Rós. ationist movement and it totally transformed my way Not just putting images on mp3 and making films His ‘Take Away Shows,’ are informal studies of of seeing things. It's all about making one’s life an from songs. That's not collaboration. At this time I bands that he encounters across the world in art piece. I grew up in Paris, and studied there and met up with the founder of La Blogotheque, Chryde, a personal quest to act as an intermediary be- had access to so many things. I was nineteen when I who was doing podcast interviews with bands and I tween artist and audience. Moon is currently in decided to give myself six years to learn as much as started to make these live music recordings, which Iceland as a guest of the Reykjavík Film Festival possible and then become someone else. That was became the Take Away Shows. We would meet up and is using his visit as an opportunity to shoot pretty clear in my mind. I was a nobody. I didn't have with foreign bands playing in Paris who were mostly local artists such as Helgi Jónsson, Bárujárn a personality. I was a transparent, extremely shy guy sick of stupid questions from journalists. When we and Kría Brekkan. and I decided to change myself and learn more than arrived we'd say: “Hey we're not going to ask you any other people. It was my revenge on the world. questions, just play some music.” This is what my work evolved from, sharing a moment with a musi- How did you first get into the business of mak- Was your name change to Vincent Moon part of cian, improvising, capturing that pure energy. ing music videos? this metamorphosis? I was interested in all kinds of diverse art forms Absolutely. And for years I went to see all mov- And Arcade Fire was your big break? when I started out and didn't know what the fuck I ies, art exhibitions and dance performances. I was Well, our first really well known band was Grizzly was doing. Most people are probably like that today, like a bulimic, gorging myself. I became more and Bear, but yes, everything changed when we did a vid- hybrid creatures. We know a lot about music, art, more interested in music, especially live music. I eo for Arcade Fire, which was shot in a freight eleva- dance and cinema because things are readily avail- became a fan of a band called The National and be- tor. That video went everywhere. That's when people able to us. Hybrid art, hybrid forms. It's impossible came friends with them. I found that cool: “wow I'm started coining me as a filmmaker who liked to shoot to put things in a box like we used to or define things friends with a musician.” I asked them if I could take bands in weird places. Which, in fact, is not right. by words anymore. The present is a beautiful mo- photos of them, and that's how it started. They used The idea was just to try out new things off stage. It ment for creation. My origins are in photography. I my photo on their album cover. Then I decided to try doesn't have to a particularly weird place. But yeah, The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 15 — 2010 For more information and the full schedule visit www.riff.is 21

Films | RIFF essentials ‘Attenberg’ (Athina Rachel Tsangari, Greece)

DON'T MISS! New Visions What’s it about? Unworldly Marina is 23 years old and lives with A closer look at the films in RIFF's main competition category her ailing father. She has never felt sexual de- sire, until she makes out with her experienced friend Bella, and later on with a man. Twelve up-and-coming directors will present their first or second films in the ‘New Visions’ What’s it really about? category at The Reykjavík International Film Festival (RIFF), one of which will go home with Leting go of the first love, the father, and find- the festival’s Golden Puffin Award. This year’s films represent a diverse worldview—from ing grown-up love, a man (and let’s be hon- Greece to the United States and Iraq to Romania. Shot with a subjective camera or narrated est, it’s also about vicarious embarrassment, without any dialogue, many of this year’s ‘New Visions’ focus on innovative forms of filmmak- watching people having clumsy sex.) ‘Inside America’ ing. Still, most of the films manage to capture aspects of real life without feeling like abstract What makes it special? (Barbara Eder, Austria) concept films. Little bizarre and humorous sequences of Ma- I undertook the task of viewing the entire 1.089 minutes screened in the ‘New Visions’ cat- rina and Bella promenading up and down a What’s it about? egory to try and help you choose which films and directors to check out. If I had a say in who’s street that have no relevance to the story. But, Mexican-American teens in Texas, struggling taking the Golden Puffin home, I’d vote for ‘The Four Times’ from Italy and ‘Flowers Of Evil’ is it really necessary to have the actors spit all with life, bereft of future prospects. from France. the time and make farting noises with their What’s it really about? mouths? Mexican-American teens in Texas, struggling Words with life, without future prospects. What makes it special? Wiebke Wolter ‘Jo For Jonathan’ This film succeeds in dealing with this politi- (Maxime Giroux, Canada) cally explosive subject without being cheesy or judgmental! What’s it about? Jonathan and his older brother, who he ad- ‘Aardvak’ mires, attend dangerous illegal car races. ‘The Christening’ (Kitao Sakurai, USA/Argentina) What’s it really about? (Marcin Wrona, Poland) DON'T MISS! A young man who tries to be someone he is What’s it about? not. What’s it about? A blind recovering alcoholic befriends his Jiu What makes it special? Michael has everything he could dream of—a Jitsu teacher and descends into the dark under- The antithetical use of music. You see a car beautiful wife, a newborn son and a good world his teacher inhabits. race but instead of hearing car noises, you hear job. Unfortunately, there is a mafia vendetta What’s it really about? very slow music. Or you see a party scene, but against him, and Michael tries to save his fam- Issues of control and losing control, and the instead of hearing music, you hear a very seri- ily. different levels of strength and weakness. ous voice-over. (There was no copy of the film available to What makes it special? screen in advance, so you’ll have to find out Most scenes begin with sounds from a black yourself what it’s really about.) screen, giving the audience a sense of what it’s like to be blind. ‘The Four Times’ (Michelangelo Frammartino, Italy) DON'T MISS!

‘Song of Tomorrow’ What’s it about? DON'T MISS! (Jonas Bergergård/Jonas Holmström, An old lonesome shepherd lives his last days in Sweden) a quiet small village in the south of Italy, herd- ing his goats. What’s it about? What’s it really about? Stig Manner collects items he finds and tries The circle of life—but not in a Lion-King kinda unsuccessfully to help his friend Janos, a broke way. Wow! ‘Littlerock’ street musician, to get his career started. What makes it special? (Mike Ott, USA) What’s it really about? The focus of the film shifts from one unpre- Those who fail in society. dictable protagonist to another, not using any What’s it about? ‘Mandoo’ What makes it special? dialogue at all. And there is one amazingly cho- When her car breaks down on a road trip (Ebrahim Saeedi, Iraq) Digital films shot with a hand-held-camera reographed scene in which a dog makes a car through California, a Japanese student winds aren't visually exciting, but in this case it crash into the goat stall. How did they manage up stranded in a small desert down. What’s it about? works fine. Narration, characters and camera to train a dog like that (or was it maybe a tiny What’s it really about? A small Iranian family, including an injured seem so painfully realistic that this film feels actor in a dog suit)? like a documentary. The foreign and language barriers. old man, tries to cross the Iraqi-Iranian border. What makes it special? What’s it really about? Nobody understands what anybody else is say- The terrors of war and mortal fear. ing, so there is no real dialogue in this film, but What makes it special? a lot of simultaneous monologues. The whole film is shot through the eyes of the old man. That provokes very unusual camera perspectives: If he lies down the camera tilts ‘At Ellen’s Age’ with him, if he closes his eyes the screen turns (Pia Marais, Germany) black, and we only actually see his face is when he looks into a mirror. What’s it about? Ellen is a stewardess in steady relationship. When she finds out that her boyfriend impreg- nated another woman, she loses it and winds up living with a collective of vegan activists. DON'T MISS! after that success came quickly and shortly after the or something in return. That's how things should What’s it really about? Arcade Fire video, REM called me and asked me to work. I'm trying to prove to myself that I can get by Drifting around and trusting strangers. do a video. But now I refuse a lot of things and I'm on virtually no money at all. What I'd like to continue What makes it special? not really interested in doing very successful bands. exploring is my fascination of the relationship of This film is narrated in a very realistic fashion. Why should I? They don't need it. I feel it’s my re- man and images and how we play with images in Not everyone who appears is meaningful to the sponsibility to focus on unknown bands, to be an in- this age of information. plot and the end of the story is unpredictable, termediary and to promote all the wonderful things What I'm scared of is that I don't think people like in real life. Unfortunately, the dialogue that I encounter around the world and make them are taught enough about images and new technolo- sounds a little stilted—didn't the actors have known to others. gies. It seemed that the internet was an easy tool but vocal coaches? it's not. People are not being educated on the subject. Flowers Of Evil But aren't consumers becoming more choosy, We go to school to read text but we don't know how (David Dusa, France) refusing to be fed by the mass industries and to read images. People are becoming numb to im- ‘Tomorrow’ picking out things on the internet? (Marian Crisan, France/Romania/Hun- ages. My point is that the only way to save our souls is What’s it about? I wish that were the case. But the golden age of the in- by going so far into the images that they cease to ex- gary) A young woman from Teheran's high society is ternet was, like, five years ago when unknown bands ist. Icelandic people have been very inspiring to me, sent to Paris and falls in love with the bellhop were able to surface and become famous in this way. especially how they create. Creation is an everyday What’s it about? at her hotel. Nelu lives in a small town on the Romanian- But now, the industry is back in business. It took the thing. People make so many images constantly that What’s it really about? big guys a few years but now they understand how it they don't make any sense. It's the actual creation of Hungarian border. He decides to help a Turk- Love and war in times of YouTube and Face- works. Take Pitchforkmedia for example. I recently the images that makes sense and not the end result. ish man cross the border on his way to Ger- book. many. spoke to the guy who started up Pitchfork and he It's something I've been trying to do as much as I What makes it special? said he hoped he hadn't created a monster. But yes, can in my work. I say to the musicians I record: "Let’s What’s it really about? The mix of film and YouTube videos, along he did create a monster! In the end people will read just have a really good time, whatever the result of the Dreary life and despair on the eastern edge of with the question of how the internet changes Pitchfork and Pitchfork will tell them what to listen movie may be.” Artists interact with their audiences the EU. our perceptions of the world in general. Oh, to. People don't have much initiative or imagination. and everyone is a part of the creation. Let's reach the What makes it special? and of course the extraordinary breakdance They don't use the internet like they could or should. ultimate point where everybody is making films and The film tells its story in a very quiet and hum- sequences! They just wait to be fed. nobody is watching them. ble way, but makes you want to cry out loud. Are you done with the idea of the Take Away Shows now? No, right now I'm not done with this idea. I still have to continue doing my little things. I do portraits of people I love around the world. I travel, spend a few hours with people, they play their music, and they get a beautiful film. Sometimes I get a nice dinner anna margrét björnsson The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 15 — 2010 Whale watching tour provided by Elding. Book trip at www.elding.is or +354 555 3565 22

Travel | Whale watching Dinner Party In Faxaflói Bay Whale watching actually means watching a lot of whales

Dead Sea... Arriving on the other side of the boat, I was dis- We found ourselves in the middle of a whale of Words The first thirty minutes, I concentrated on the sur- appointed to catch only a small glimpse of some- a dinner party: minke whales, white-beaked dol- Wiebke Wolter face of the ocean. Surrounded by nothing but water thing grey disappearing into the water. However, phins and dozens of gannets all feeding together. and a few birds, I got more and more impatient. Our my disappointment didn't last long, because the This scene totally made up for the slow beginning. Photography guide explained how to inform the others if we spot- speakers soon announced more dolphins were to A group of gannets hovered above until—out of no- Hvalreki ted something. “Whale at twelve o'clock” means be seen. The whole crowd moved from one side of where—the whole swarm plunged into the water, right in front of us, and “whale at three o'clock”, on the boat to the other to see them. The dolphins kept head first, in a suicidal fashion. Gannets dive up to the right side of the boat (or starboard, to say it in running us back and forth from on one side to the 100 km/h to catch fish in very deep water. It was We knew we were in the right place as we spotted a a more nautical way). She sounded surprisingly op- other—well, except for those taking a closer look at extremely entertaining to watch these fascinating bunch of funny looking tourists dressed up in warm timistic. But I was convinced we wouldn't see any- their seasickness bags. birds. I'm not sure if I'm supposed to say it, this be- suits provided by Elding tours looking prepared for thing at all, so I decided to just hang out in the sun ing about a whale watching tour, but the suicidal a rough afternoon in Faxaflói bay. As we boarded and at least enjoy some wave watching. Underwater dinner party! gannets were the secret stars of this trip. the double decker tourist boat, I felt a surge of ex- “Blow of a whale twelve o'clock!" The boat sped citement at the thought of seeing some whales, the Dolphin spotted up in pursuit of something splashing about ahead Elding offers whale-watching tours every day at 9:00 and majestic kings of the sea (or was that sharks?). The Then, all of a sudden, I heard someone shouting: of us. As we got closer, our guide told us it was a 13:00 during September, and in October daily at 13:00. boat sailed out of the harbour, and our guide came “White-beaked dolphins at eleven o'clock”. Every- minke whale, a type of baleen whale, which filters Adults pay 8.000 ISK, for children the price is 3.500 ISK. onto the intercom to explain the best way to spot body moved to the left side of the boat, holding on food from the water. Our guide was explaining that a whale. “Look out for white crests or blows”, she to the rail or the next person or anything else they minke whales measure an average of seven metres, told us. “Birds flying around are also a good sign, could grab, because the boat was rocking quite a can dive for around twenty minutes and swim up to because they might be looking for the same fish bit by now. My stomach churned and I really wished 40 km/h, when she interrupted herself, announcing to eat.” I had taken the anti-seasickness pill offered by the a cascade of uncountable “one o'clock, two o'clock, girl at the Elding ticket office. three o'clock whales”.

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GRÍMSEY

BOLUNGARVÍK DRANGAJÖKULL ÞÓRSHÖFN ÍSAFJÖRÐUR SIGLUFJÖRÐUR HÚSAVÍK HRÍSEY VOPNAFJÖRÐUR Kraa

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www.airiceland.is [email protected] / tel. +354 570 3030 Contact Air Iceland or travel agent for reservation. The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 15 — 2010 Reykjavík Coastal Rowing Adventures offers coastal rowing eco-tours in the Reykjavík vicinity all winter. For more information contact 21 [email protected] or + 354 7778844

Travel | Rowing Vitamin Sea Rowing the serene coast of Álftanes makes for a breath of fresh air

much on hand to advise and take over as and when With the sun beginning its descent on the ho- sion of pink and orange in the sky around us, the Words our initial enthusiasm began to wane and our tri- rizon, we sat down to enjoy what had to be in my seabirds trailing us in the freezing air and the lap of Eimear Fitzgerald ceps began to wonder what the hell was going on. top five list of 'most delicious meals in random lo- the darkening ocean against the boat, time seemed Being out on the water brought a very different per- cations, ever'. As our crabs met their sad end in a to stand still. Venus twinkled above our heads in the Photography spective to Reykjavík. Out of the hustle and bustle large pot of boiling water, we warmed our hands glow of a green solar splash that appeared from no- Hvalreki of downtown, the gentle giant, Mt Esja, almost and bellies with a hearty, steaming barley soup, where, and which melted away almost as soon into hugged the city, sheltering it from the brunt of the mopped up with some crusty bread. All the while the haze of city lights. As we reached shore, the last cold easterlies. The majestic Snæfellsjökull was vis- Skúli entertained us with stories about Álftanes, orange flare of day faded over the horizon and we Driving down to Ægisíða to meet our guide, Skúli ible to the north and Bláfjöll, the Blue Mountains, Viking settlers, growing up on Viðey and attempts gathered ourselves for home, tired and a little chilly, Guðbjarnarson, I had a feeling that my eager team stretched out to the south-east. to translate untranslatable wildlife names. However, but thoroughly pleased with an evening’s adventur- of rowers and I were in for something special. The Being on the water also brought a very differ- all talk stopped as soon as the crabs were ready ing and a job well done. autumn sun hung low in the evening sky, throw- ent perspective to the word hunger. It wasn't long to serve, and we descended like a pack of hungry ing its pale glow over the bay. Surveying our sturdy before the sea air brought a Neanderthal-esque seagulls on our gloriously tasty victims. Washing it Faroese fishing boat, all agreed it looked a reliable grumble to my stomach that needed attention, and down with a refreshing French chardonnay added vessel for our evening’s trip, particularly in the calm fast. The plan? Crabs! The process of hauling in a further touch of “je ne sais quoi” to our already conditions that stretched out before us. Skúli´s mid-ocean crab trap provided much giggles exotic location. Skúli duly arrived complete with all the neces- and excitement, especially when we discovered five However, our delightful pit-stop had made saries: safety gear, waders, picnic basket (contents wonderful examples that would become dinner. Af- contemplating the row back a harrowing one for to be revealed later), as well as complete repertoire ter a time musing over where we would shore up our lazy legs and aching arms. Again we needn’t of local history, wildlife facts and the obligatory and cook the little critters, we decided upon an have worried. The trusty Skúli was ten steps ahead seaman’s story or two. As we set off, any doubts isolated skerry of rocks, home to a gaggle of arctic and had brought an outboard motor for the home about rowing ability were allayed, as Skúli was very geese and a few suspicious looking puffins. stretch. Sitting back to take in the glorious explo-

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GRÍMSEY

BOLUNGARVÍK DRANGAJÖKULL ÞÓRSHÖFN ÍSAFJÖRÐUR SIGLUFJÖRÐUR HÚSAVÍK HRÍSEY VOPNAFJÖRÐUR Kraa

BLÖNDUÓS AKUREYRI

FLATEY EGILSSTAÐIR NESKAUPSTAÐUR

Hallormstaður

Always best price online. STYKKISHÓLMUR Kárahnjúkar SNÆFELLSJÖKULL

ILULISSAT Greenland

CONSTABLE POINT BORGARNES Various online-offers to all Air Iceland's destinations. Greenland KULUSUK Greenland Gullfoss AKRANES Geysir

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Blue Lagoon FAROE ISLANDS ÍSLENSK www.airiceland.is [email protected] / tel. +354 570 3030 Contact Air Iceland or travel agent for reservation. The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 15 — 2010 For more information on Keðja go to www.Keðja.id.is. For all other dance information go to www.dance.is Now offering 24 Dance | Dance Dance catering service!

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Reykjavík Is Dancing

For several years now, Iceland has been building an international rep- “The city’s isolation can be an advantage, allowing utation for producing a rich and di- the dance community to nurture a unique verse range of independent dance makers. The depth of this relatively environment that is left to develop undisturbed, new community is growing at a fascinating rate, and taking huge and the size of the city makes the arts community strides towards building an envi- incredibly localised” ronment upon which the art form can be sustained. dottir (to name just a few); the last as a vital resource for the independent seven years have seen a strong festival dance scene. Ásgerður Gunnarsdót- The trend up until now has been that legacy develop: artFart and The Reyk- tir of Hreyfiþróunarsamsteypan—one equal numbers of Icelandic dance javík Dance Festival; and courses such of the four groups presenting a new artists have chosen to work abroad as the Contemporary Dance BA and dance work at the National Theatre— as much as they do at home—largely Theatre – Theory and Practice BA, es- explains that “this development is because the conditions for making tablished by Iceland’s University of the enormous. Before this news was an- and sharing dance in Reykjavík have Arts, have all helped tackle the chal- nounced, Hreyfiþróunarsamsteypan a long way to go before this city can lenges that Reykjavík faces. Yet there is were struggling to find a space to start offer the sort of fertile soil that some plenty more to be done and the dance working on their new piece. Now we of its European neighbours can offer community and its wider supporters will be the first of many to make use of (think Berlin, or Brussels). Of course are waking up to this. Cue the autumn this new opportunity.” Reykjavík will never become the New and winter of 2010. Finally, the fourth big event tak- Berlin, nor should it aim to be, but in The final quarter of this year is now ing place this autumn and winter is its own way, the city is demonstrating being heralded by many as an era of Keðja—running from 8th–11th October. great ambition and has the potential to change, and an opportunity to shift Ása Richardsdóttir, who managed the offer a wholly different type of breeding the way in which dance is made and event, described it “first and foremost, ground for dance making in Iceland. shared in Iceland. Signý Palsdóttir, Of- as an opportunity for all involved in the Much of the appeal attached to fice Manager of Iceland’s Department performing arts to explore, question continental cities such as Berlin is the of Culture, declared at a public forum and celebrate the art of dance”. With geographical location, which permits hosted by the Reykjavík Dance Festi- sixteen artistic events of various shapes artists quick access to other hotspots, val that “Now is the time for dance!”—a and sizes, plus various seminars and enormously improving touring possi- statement that is hard to refute when talks, this international encounter is an bilities and providing natural meeting considering the array of events and de- opportunity for dance professionals to points for the roaming international velopments taking hold in the coming mingle with their counter-parts from community. The qualities of Reykjavík months. across the oceans; an invitation to the are in many ways the stark opposite. curious beginners to check out some Reykjavík, rather than large and cen- Vital platforms of the most exciting contemporary per- tral, is small and isolated, but these Firstly, although now past, it seems im- formance work taking place in Iceland qualities are not to be sneered at, and portant to flag up The Reykjavík Dance at the moment. And according to Ása by no means to be misconstrued as Festival, which took place over the first Richardsdóttir, it is also about some- negative. On the contrary, Reykjavík’s weekend in September. At its best, thing a lot bigger. She explains “I think qualities are an opportunity, as well as the festival serves as a vital platform this is an opportunity for all Icelanders a challenge. The city’s isolation can be bringing together a national and in- to begin to rethink, reshape and re- an advantage, allowing the dance com- ternational dance community to share charge their future; to treat society in munity to nurture a unique environment and explore the best that Iceland’s the coming year as an open, critical, that is left to develop undisturbed, and dance scene has to offer. The festival, and constructive laboratory—bearing in the size of the city makes the arts com- crucially, provides a pretty compre- mind that our success will, to a large munity incredibly localised (every artist hensive overview of the dance activity extent, depend on our ability to unleash working in walking distance of every that has been taking place in Iceland the true creative forces we have.” other), which makes the possibilities over the year and provides a space for The question of whether or not Keð- for collaboration and creative encoun- reflection on the current state of the ja will be able to reach those heights ters unavoidable. Icelandic dance scene. The most excit- will not be answered of course until ing element of the festival is that much after the event, but from looking at the Isolation of the work presented is being shown programme of events—with highlights WELCOME CARD This being said, the risk with isolation for the first time, making it much less including Saga and Friðgeir, Leifur Þór is that a scene becomes out of touch predictable what the overall quality of Þorvaldsson, Erna Ómarsdóttir, Kviss and two dimensional—remaining con- the work will be. Búm Bang and many more—it seems See more and save more WELCOME CARD tinually unchallenged by developments INCLUDING The second event in the coming safe to say that this event is going to when visiting Reykjavík. CITY BUS TRANSPORT, 2009 - 2010 FREE ADMISSIONS, taking place elsewhere. Plus, local months is the fascinating development provide some thrilling encounters, and DISCOUNTS OFF TOURS, SHOPPING, AND SERVICES tight-knit, everyone-knows-everyone and AVAILABLE FOR 24, 48 that is taking place at the National The- should be marked on the calendar as a Free admissions discounts AND 72 HOURS. off tours, shopping and services communities can lack the critical space atre this winter which, for the first time “DO NOT MISS!” for 24, 48 or 72 hours. 8 that is required to be able to openly ac- in the playhouse’s history, is present- Overall the final quarter of 2010 2010 4 . Great value for money. cess the successes and failures of in- ing four new independent dance works looks unavoidably like a period of fer- WELCOME CARD dividual artists and their work, leaving as part of one season—a move that is vent activity and exciting possibilities. It The Welcome Card can the scene vulnerable to stagnation and described by Karen María Jónsdóttir, is clear that there is a lot of work to do,

HBS 48592 01 be purchased at: S thirsty for criticism. President of the National Dance Asso- but it is easy to feel hopeful when you The Centre, major hotels, museums, SIA.I

A Currently Reykjavík is not charac- tourist information centres and ciation, as “an unprecedented shift”. look at the track record. Hlemmur and BSÍ bus stations. terised by either of these extremes, and Thirdly, and possibly the most ground- ÍSLENSK plenty of groundwork has been done breaking news, is the City of Reykja- already to push the scene in the right vik’s move to provide initial funds for direction; many exciting groups and the first ever National Dance House to dance makers have been coming out of be created. Opening at the beginning the woodwork, including Hnoð, Hrey- of October, the new dance space will Aðalstræti 2 • 101 Reykjavík • Tel +354 590 1550 • [email protected] fiþróunarsamsteypan, Leifur Þór Þor- be installed in an old biscuit factory on www.visitreykjavik.is valdsson, and Margrét Sara Guðjóns- Skúlagata and will immediately serve alexander roberts The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 15 — 2010 25

Your Emotions | Ask The Doctor

Psychics, ADHD And Alcoholism Psychologist Paola Cardenas answers your dilemmas

I have always been quite I am usually distracted and forget- I think my girlfriend has a drinking sceptical about psychics ful and my friend says I might have problem. She drinks on most week- and their supernatural pow- ADHD. Could you please explain to ends and always gets too drunk. We er of seeing beyond what the me what ADHD is and what I can do have argued a few times about this rest of us mortals can see, but it is dif- to fix it? but she says I exaggerate. How do I ficult to live in Iceland and not believe ADHD, or attention-deficit and hyper- know what is “normal” drinking and in this sort of thing. A large percentage activity disorder, is a psychological what is the best way to help her? of Icelanders have gone at least once problem of childhood characterised by It sounds to me as if your girlfriend has in their lives to a psychic and stories of inappropriate levels of hyperactivity, been binge drinking. Binge drinking is the supernatural power of these intui- inattention and impulsivity. These es- a term used to describe the very com- tive people can be heard at most social sential features need to be seen across mon behaviour of drinking alcoholic gatherings. As the saying goes, “when in situations before a diagnosis can be beverages with the primary purpose of Rome, do as the Romans do," I decided made; that is, at home, at work and in getting drunk. This pattern of drinking to do as the Icelanders do and go and social situations. Although ADHD is usually refers to consuming five or more find out what the fuss was all about and usually diagnosed in childhood, it is not drinks on a single occasion for men or uncover an impostor at work. just a problem in children. Even though four or more drinks on a single occasion So I ordered an appointment with a you might not have been diagnosed as for women, generally within a time span well-known psychic and arrived there a child, it does not mean that you can’t of about two hours. This drinking style quite suspicious, but as I entered the have it as an adult. is quite popular in many countries, in- room I was quite taken aback by my own In the past ADHD went usually un- cluding Iceland, but that does not make reaction. The moment he started speak- noticed and kids who were affected by it acceptable. Binge drinking can have ing I let my guard down and became it were considered to be troublemak- negative consequences to our physical hopelessly attentive. He described my ers and annoying. Fortunately things and mental health. There are researches personality as only my closest friends have changed and these children are that associate binge drinking with alco- would and told me things about myself met with more understanding. The most holism but the fact of the matter is that that I had even forgotten. He told me common symptoms of ADHD in adults drinking is a problem if it causes trouble things about my future as well but al- are the following: having trouble con- in your relationships, at work, in social though his words were quite impressive, centrating and staying focused, being situations, or in how you think and feel. I am aware that there is the possibility disorganised, having difficulty following If you are still worried that your girlfriend that they might be fabricated. Nonethe- directions, impulsiveness and chronic has a drinking problem I suggest you less, this was an instructive experience lateness and forgetfulness among oth- have another talk with her, when she is that might help me be more open-mind- ers. In order to get a diagnosis you might sober, and tell her how you really feel ed about this mystical business and def- need to see a psychologist but that sort about her drinking and how it affects initely give me the opportunity to have of evaluation can be quite expensive. you. It also might be helpful for you to something to talk about the next time Nevertheless, if you have some of the meet with your family doctor and get ad- the subject is brought up. symptoms there are some things that ditional information on the matter. Enough of my experience, here are you can do that might help you. For in- your dilemmas and my answers to them. stance, it can be good to exercise regu- larly in order to work off excess energy, limit your sugar and caffeine intake and get enough sleep. Lists, clocks, calen- dars and notes-to-self can also help you manage better your time and improve Paola Cardenas your work environment. Ed schipul

Opinion | "Travis Bickle" Winter Awaits: Down the Rabbit Hole of Cabbie Depression

Soon darkness will envelope all for briefly considers ceasing as carelessly months on end and snow will fall min- crashing presents a final solution. Might gled with hail, sheeting the windshield it be I’m listening to too much Neurosis? in freezing cold white. Such is the time Should I perhaps switch to FM 957 and for the depressed to wallow, for the for- for a while become a happy zombie with lorn to simmer in deep funk. The inching its gleeful head swimming in sickeningly lapse of time and creeping stretches of sweet and frothy pop culture hell bent wait pile up infinitely as the mind soft- on ever discovering a lower common de- ens and slowly turns to mush. I vowed nominator on which to breed a bleached once for an end to this but my means hair generation of functional retards? are meagre and the coins call for me to Should I rather be happily monosyllabic claim them, the bills beg to be bound in than sadly eloquent? I probably will nev- my billfold. er know. I long ever to be the drunken lout Tonight I spark an incorrigible flame whom I serve, as alcohol keeps the and toke a jay. I get high on hate and wolves at bay. I know indeed that it is loaded with bile, contempt and loathing. a fine custom for a man to lock tight his to seem less wretched. Bereft of joy, I, I run lights and ignore stop signs. I heed heart’s coffer, keep closed the hoard by sorrowful utterance, bereave others no limits and strive to end this ruined life case of his mind, whatever his thoughts of theirs. continuum. I’m playing a game you see. may be. Yet I bare these feelings freely Finally I catch a fare. Why does Whoever is the biggest dick fare tonight without care of being judged. Only by this please me, I wonder. Once safely gets to join me in the great beyond with distribution can sadness be cast away, shipped to whatever destination only a high-speed crash gasoline fire as the or by infecting others, my state be made more futility awaits. Safely shipping expedient. You just try me you cunts! The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 14 — 2010 We haven't read the English translation of Jón Kalman's book yet (except for Marc), but the Icelandic version was great. So check it out if you get a chance. 26

Literature | Review

erage journey into adulthood; Jón Kalman The six men had been silent, humble and more concerned with salting and gutting might well have pushed the credibility of the is addressing the very nature of existence. thankful of their existence. But it isn’t natu- the catch), the boy sets out for the village novel over the edge, but here it works well; The sea as a metaphor for the tran- ral for a person to feel thankful or humble in the middle of the snowstorm. His goal is in fact, it lends the work a whiff of ancient sience of life is almost expected in Icelandic for too long: some had started thinking to return Bárður’s book to its rightful owner. Icelandic magic. literature—and certainly plentiful among the about tobacco and forgotten eternal life.” For the boy, it is the poetry of John Milton Jón Kalman, who won the Icelandic old classics of world literature (Melville and The story opens with the boy and his that has killed his friend. It is almost as if un- Prize for Literature in 2005 for his short story Hemingway come to mind)—yet, somehow, friend Bárður returning to the isolated fish- til he returns this book, Bárður’s spirit can- collection, ‘Sumarljós og svo kemur nóttin’ Jón Kalman pulls it off with his own unique ermen’s huts on the coast where they wait not rest. The boy soon begins questioning (‘Summer Light, Enter Night’), is strongly voice: rugged, folklore-imbued, but with a for calm weather to head out for the catch. his own existence and resolves to join his influenced by poetics. Not surprisingly, be- Heaven and Hell poet’s sensitive touch. Stern has called the Bárður passes his time enrapt in a transla- friend in the afterlife, only to come to realise fore turning his hand to fiction, he published by Jón Kalman Stefánsson German translation an absolute treasure of tion of Milton’s Paradise Lost. He and the that there may well be other things worth three poetry collections. Originally planned MacLehose Press a book. Die Welt said, “Upon reading the boy are the two youngest and least expe- living for: as a stand-alone novel, ‘Heaven And Hell’ is last sentence in this unexpected, beauti- rienced of their six-man, six-oared crew; “It is easy to let oneself be covered in now part of a trilogy, the second of which, ful novel, the reader will be struck in silent but by the time the men are four hours from snow, easy to die, but let’s not forget that ‘Harmur englanna’ (‘The Sorrow of An- Jón Kalman Stefánsson’s first work in Eng- awe.” the shore and setting their fishing lines, the the night and the snowfall deceive, the boy gels’), was released last year in Icelandic lish translation, ‘Heaven and Hell’ (‘Him- The novel is not driven by plot, but by wind has picked up and it begins to snow. thinks he lies down far from all human habi- and has already met with praise. naríki og helvíti’, Bjartur, October 2007), the sheer will of Jón Kalman’s poetic prose. Bárður suddenly realises that he has for- tation, in the wilderness, but is then perhaps ‘Heaven And Hell’ is a universal tale of was released on September 2 by MacLe- It may take the reader a while to find the gotten his waterproof. What seems at first on a slope above a little farm…” man’s fragility amidst the gargantuan power hose Press (an imprint of Quercus). This is a rhythm of the work, with its unusual punc- seems a mere inconvenience becomes Although mostly written in the third per- of nature, about the enduring strength of rough gem of a novel which reads almost as tuation and unexpected switching of tens- the only thing between life and death. Ice son, there is a strange, yet compelling Oth- friendship and the individual will to survive. fluid and poetic as the very ocean on which es, yet slowly but surely one gets drawn into begins to form on the sails and Bárður is er, a group of omniscient narrators—possi- This is a moving, timeless, intense novel de- it unfolds. Set sometime at the turn of the this simple and surprising world: soaked through to the skin. Despite the bly gods or the spirits of the ancestors—who serving of all the attention it gets. last century in a Westfjords’ fishing village, “They had seen every crack and crevice boy’s desperate efforts to save his friend, call themselves “We Are Nearly Darkness”. Heaven and Hell chronicles three coming- in the mountains many kilometres from the Bárður is doomed. These voices intermittently interject with of-age days and nights in an unnamed boy’s boat and the sky arched over them like the Back on land, incensed by the indiffer- philosophical comments and reflections on Marc Vincenz life. Yet, this is certainly no young man’s av- roof of a church, the roof that protects us. ence of the other fisherman (who appear the boy’s actions. As a narrative device this

Poetry | Eiríkur Örn Norðdahl Quiet, You Ignorant Booby!

Anything an author does (or says) is viable to she had the opinions of an F.T. Marinetti? literary intentions” if luck (good or bad) would happen landic thought is the Elder Edda—a curiously repetitious be used as evidence against (or for) her (or We live in times of continuously repeated 15 min- to make them famous. And if they happen to become ode about the importance of never seeming stupid. In him). Their actions and words are common- utes of fame for everybody—we’re all bloggers, tweet- VERY famous, the devising will be maniacally thorough Auden’s translation: “The ignorant booby had best be ly seen as shedding an invaluable light on ers, facebookers, tumblrs, flickrers; exceedingly sophis- and the exegeses increasingly inspired. silent / When he moves among other men, / No one the work they’ve given the world—and to a certain extent ticated self-promoters, and we’re all famous ALL THE This, as you may imagine, is a recipe for paranoia will know what a nit-wit he is / Until he begins to talk; this is of course true. It’s hard to understand the poetry TIME. This is a well-known and well-documented fact and permanently suspended intellectual animation for / No one knows less what a nit-wit he is / Than the of Ezra Pound if one refuses to see his (personal) fascist (“nauseamus igitur”). And in this system of self-promo- all partakers, which is why so many contemporary au- man who talks too much […]Wise is he not who is never tendencies—they may not detract from the poetry, per tion no one is as suspect as he or she who actually has thors stay silent on matters concerning anything under silent, / Mouthing meaningless words: / A glib tongue se, but they do belong to it, they do inform it, enliven it. something to promote. Celebrity Tweeters, like British the sun: you know you’re just gonna use it against them. that goes on chattering / Sings to its own harm […] Of Lifestyles and opinions impregnate the poetry of po- author and comedian Stephen Fry, can’t possibly tweet Most authors are even scared witless of writing their his knowledge a man should never boast, / Rather be ets from Jack Spicer to Emily Dickinson to Li Po to Ger- without a hidden agenda of also peddling their crap, no own books. It doesn’t mean that the boos will be bad— sparing of speech / When to his house a wiser comes: trude Stein to Sylvia Plath to William Carlos Williams, Tor matter that their crap sold out weeks ago and actually but the myth that neurosis is a helpful tool for increasing / Seldom do those who are silent / Make mistakes; Ulven, Ingeborg Bachman and Pablo Neruda. We could sounds kinda interesting. It’s still suspect. We know this creativity is about as true as poets having to be alcohol- mother wit / Is ever a faithful friend” and so forth. for instance ask ourselves what would’ve become of Al- and they know this. ics to write interesting poetry. That is to say, it’s mostly a These are the verses etched in the wretched souls of len Ginsberg had he succeeded with his original plan of Most authors (or artists /entertainers in general) live funny anecdote—a part of 20th century mythmaking and Icelandic poets—and poets worldwide. For us, the bitch- becoming a lawyer—or had he just been hetero? What in a universe where they’re forced to admit that even image-related careerisms. Not only was it never true, as es of Icelandic tradition, that’s where it all began. With would an Indian summer of peyote abuse have done to though they might be irrelevant small potatoes today, an idea it’s also totally passé. a clear and concise precept: Booby, behave! Booby, be someone like TS Eliot? Where would the Flarf poets be their Twitter feed, their emails, their scribbled grocery Self-doubt? Yes. – Paranoid delusions? No, not re- still! if they were pastoral hermits deprived of Wi-Fi’s and lists and the rate of their production of used-condoms ally. And Booby, be sure to be quiet. iPhones? What would a Margaret Atwood sound like, if and /or bastard children might be used to “devise their As everyone knows, the founding document of Ice-

Opinion | The internets

Learn The Internets, Dammit! range of web related topics, from marketing and branding to If Iceland wants to be part of the 21st Century technologi- forget about all the time and effort that has gone into all the The IceWeb conference could help with that new technologies and exciting developments. cal revolution, then it needs to step-up and learn about new tiny snippets of text. Do you get more clicks if you say “Click Einar Þór Gústafsson, current chairman of SVEF, planned advances, then innovate. “Going overseas for a conference Here for More Info” or “To see more info, click here”? There the first IceWeb conference in 2006 as part of a school group is very expensive and it’s difficult to convince your boss to are people who specialise in the tedious world of micro-copy. The good people behind the IceWeb 2010 conference called project in a project management course at the continuing spend a few hundred thousand krónur on tickets, flights, ho- Really. Relly Annett-Baker is one such person. I have been us up the other day and asked us to write something about it education program at the University of Iceland. Having some tels, per diem etc.” Einar explains. assured that everything I think I know about smart, short, in our paper so you, our readers, might take an interest in par- experience organising events while living in New York City, This year Julien Smith will grace us with his presence. witty copy is wrong, but that’s OK, she’s come to set me ticipating. While we really like the internet, we couldn’t seem to he wanted to bring in experts to an international conference He’s a dot com maven working hard to advance the com- straight. Now if we could only get her to sit down with some find time to make the article. So we invited one of IceWeb’s or- focusing on web design and development. munity. His recent book, Trust Agents, was lucky #13 on the of Iceland’s politicians, then we might seem quite so confus- ganisers, Brian Suda, to write us a short article explaining why Since Iceland sits nicely between North America and Eu- New York Times bestseller list. It focuses on how to use your ing to the foreign press! he thinks everybody should go. This is what he came up with: rope, it’s easy to entice some of the world’s best technologists social networks to build your brand's influence, reputation If there is anything that you know for certain, it’s that you to visit. “Over the years, we have managed to invite speakers and profits. never know enough. Having opportunities to educate, ad- As Iceland positions itself as a technological hub with cheap such as Kathy Sierra. The largest draw for her, and many of After the collapse, Iceland needs to rebuild its social vance and innovate are paramount in this fast-paced chang- power and talented individuals, it need opportunities to the other speakers, is the opportunity to visit an exotic place, capital with the rest of the world. It burned more than a few ing world. Everyone should take advantage of these opportu- show-off and bring influential movers-and-shakers from see the nature, ride some Icelandic horses and enjoy the bridges with both IceSave and then Eyjafjallajökull. Wheth- nities and learn what the next wave, trend and innovation will abroad. Over the last five years, Iceland has played host nightlife.” says Einar. er it’s in your home life or international relations, influence be and be sure to make Iceland its home. three times to the IceWeb conference, an international web October is a busy time in Reykjavík as it shows itself off counts. Iceland needs to rebuild its trust and Julien is coming technology conference. In good times and in bad, SVEF (The to the world. The IceWeb takes place the 7th-8th of October to help us learn more. Icelandic Web Industry Association - www.svef.is) has been sandwiched between the “You are in Control” conference But there is much more to the Web than just LIKE but- brian suda bringing high calibre speakers to come and talk on a wide and Iceland Airwaves. tons! As we troll Facebook for last weekend’s pictures, we Laugavegur

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The only kitchen in Reykjavík open RESTAURANT- BAR to on weekdays 23:30 Vesturgata 3B | 101 Reykjavík and 01:00 on weekends Tel: 551 2344 | www.tapas.is Your essential guide to life, travel and entertainment in Iceland STUFFED WITH STUFF ISSUE 15 YOUR FREE COPY

Page 19 We were beset by a puerile and nouveau riche arrogance, an entire generation lost all moral restraint. People flaunted their wealth and boasted of it, they could only travel in private jets and the flamboyance and vulgarity surrounding Iceland was such that it got noticed the world round.

Steingrímur J. Sigfússon has a lot to say

Page 6 “The former CEO of Glitnir bank, Lárus Welding, received in 2009 over $3.000 per day—per day (which is a considerably higher amount than many public employees make per month after decades of work) for... for what?” Wow, bankers make a shitload of money, huh? Hope they deserve it

Page 12 So I Googled you. Leftist communist hippie Catharine Fulton is on to Victor Blaer…

Page 24 I was a nobody. I didn't have a personality. I was a transparent, extremely shy guy and I decided to change myself and learn more than other people. It was my revenge on the world. Director Vincent Moon’s ‘revenge on the world’ is surprisingly pleasant

Page 8 We knew our system was outdated and needed to be revamped, so this upgrade has been part of an overall strategic plan. Strætó’s Bergdís Eggertsdóttir tells us how they’re trying to fix everything Tourist Information Centre · Aðalstræti 2, 101 Reykjavík Page 12 Hilton Reykjavík · Suðurlandsbraut 2, 108 Reykjavík BSI Bus Terminal · Vatnsmýrarvegur 10, 101 Reykjavík Radisson Blu · Hagatorg, 107 Reykjavík IÐA Bookstore · Lækjargata 2a, 2nd floor, 101 Reykjavík The main thrust of Boris’ campaign Hotel Loftleiðir · Hlíðarfótur, 101 Reykjavík Skarfabakki · Cruise Liner Visitor Centre, 104 Reykjavík was to bring back the famous Lon- don red bus—a sincere pledge, but one no less ludicrous or irrelevant to the people than Gnarr’s promise to Travel Agency put a polar bear in the city zoo.

Authorised by London’s Dominic Rowland digs Jón Gnarr Icelandic Tourist Board