Snow Way PARIS — Snow Bunnies Who Like to Stay Warm While Looking Chic Will Be Delighted with This Season’S New Offerings

BEAUCHAMP EXITS SUSAN DELL/2 JEWELRY SWOOSHES NET/8 Women’sWWD Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • March 17, 2003 Vol. 185, No. 54 $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Snow Way PARIS — Snow bunnies who like to stay warm while looking chic will be delighted with this season’s new offerings. Michael Kors, for example, created white minks, pink powder-puff chubbies and checkerboard furs for Celine. Like those, many looks in his stylish collection — one of his best — also had a touch of the Sixties. Kors created some great accessories, too, among them a fur hat with pom-poms, shown here with an embroidered and sequined coat. For more on fall’s little extras, see pages 6 and 7.

Small-Town Charmer: Boscov’s Bucks Trend Of Regional Meltdown

By David Moin WYOMISSING, Pa. — For Boscov’s, thinking out of the box means putting more into it. Like homemade fudge at $4 a pound, $14 neck massagers, $20 insulated Thermos pump pots, or $7,000 Hitachi plasma TVs — indulgences that shoppers in the blue-collar Rust Belt don’t necessarily require, and in some cases yield low margins. They’re more apt to go for the H.I. Hummel figurines, or Hawaiian shirts. “What’s more fun than looking at See Boscov’s, Page20 PHOTO BY PHOTO GIOVANNI BY GIANNONI 2 Beauchamp Exits Susan Dell WWDMONDAY Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear By Eric Wilson gories such as wellness, home, food and wine, looking at what NEW YORK— Linda Beauchamp Beauchamp described as “what FASHION has resigned as president of is going to be the next step for the Fall runways saw an eclectic accessories mix, from space cases at Marc Susan Dell Inc. after three years new generation.” 6 Jacobs, Fendi and Versus, to chic styles at Oscar de la Renta and Ralph Lauren. to focus on her own consulting “I might be able to tap into company, Vision in Commerce, some of the instincts I have and which will take Susan Dell on as work on a broader base,” Beau- GENERAL its first client. champ said. “But Susan is still my Regional department store chain Boscov’s is under assault from Wal-Mart, Target, Kohl’s and a host of others. Here’s how it plans to stay vital. WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 17, 2003 WWD, MONDAY, Beauchamp, a former presi- top priority right now and I have a 1 dent of men’s wear at Donna noncompete clause with anybody The current economy and war fears aside, forecasters are worried about a Karan and DKNY, joined Susan else in the fashion business.” 2 longer-lasting downturn, and say it was in motion well before Sept. 11. Dell to help turn the Texas design- Dell said the arrangement will er’s fledgling ready-to-wear busi- allow her to continue to work EYE: Rocking with Kiera Chaplin (as in Charlie’s granddaughter)…renovating ness into a nationally known fash- with Beauchamp, while allowing 4 with Amanda Ferragamo…plus Scoops. Susan Dell and Linda Beauchamp ion line, notable for more than her to develop new opportunities Obituaries...... 23 Dell’s marital connection to one of for a replacement, she said. for herself. Dell has been design- Classified Advertisements ...... 22-23 ing for more than a decade, but the richest men in America, Dell “I think there are other things To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is Computer founder Michael Dell. in life right now that could be very expanded her scope with a full [email protected], using the individual's name. But as Dell’s business has quickly rewarding,” Beauchamp said. collection in 1999, when she developed with sales of close to $2 “Taking myself out of the day-to- opened her store in Austin. SUBSCRIPTION RATES U.S. and possessions, Retailer, daily one year, $99; Manufacturer, daily one year, $135. million — generated entirely day operations will give me a Beauchamp had also consult- All others U.S., daily one year $195. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. through trunk shows, a Web site broader point of view in terms of ed for other companies between Please allow 6-8 weeks for service to start. Individual subscription information: (800) 289-0273; outside U.S. (818) 487-4526; group subscription information (856) 786-0963. and Dell’s own store in Austin, being able to focus on areas that the time she left Donna Karan in Postmaster: Send address changes to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. Tex., — Beauchamp said she felt it are a little more lifestyle driven.” 1998, after seven years of building WWD (ISSN #0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional was an appropriate time to ex- Beauchamp’s company, based the company’s men’s business, issue every month except July, and two additional issues in April and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc. a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc., 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001-8191. plore other areas of her interest. in New York, will target brand and before that worked in retail WWD is a registered trademark of Fairchild Publications Inc.© 2003 by Fairchild Publications Inc., The company will be looking consulting for companies in cate- at Saks Fifth Avenue and Macy’s. a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying or recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, except as may be expressly permitted in writing by the copyright owner. Editorial Reprints: (212) 221-9595 Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and other offices. Mailed under Publications Mail Sales Agreement No. 517054. Canada Post Returns to: P.O.Box 1632, Windsor, ON N9A 7C9 GST # 88654-9096-RM 0001 Canada Publications Agreement # 40032712 Printed in the U.S.A. All signed articles published in the paper represent solely the individual opinion of the writer and not those of Stock Market Outlook: Bad to Worse WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY. For Web site access, log on to www.WWD.com By Vicki M. Young chasing it, during this cold, fright- nine regions of the country, with ening winter. Last month’s the Rocky Mountain and East NEW YORK — The equity mar- Consumer Confidence Index, North Central regions showing MONDAY: Material World, Miami Beach (through kets are braced for a tough 2003, provided by The Conference the biggest declines in February. Wednesday). regardless of what happens in Board, was the lowest in 10 years, Lynn Franco, director at the Ideacomo textile show, Cernobbio, Italy (through Middle Eastern deserts or South dropping 14.8 points to a lower- Conference Board, said in a state- Wednesday). American oil fields. than-expected 64, the worst ment, “Job worries, rising energy At the forefront, of course, are showing since October 1993’s 60.5 costs and war fears have lowered TUESDAY: Fashion Week of the Americas, Miami concerns over the possibility of mark. This performance suggests confidence from the East Coast to Beach (through Saturday). war with Iraq, followed by con- continued pressure on retailers, the West Coast and in all areas in Charming Shoppes reports fourth-quarter results. cerns about North Korea. Other already deprived of top-line between.” The board noted that geopolitical issues, such as Ven- growth by a lackluster holiday job opportunities across America, WEDNESDAY: Nike’s third-quarter results. ezuela, have added to the run-up season and a winter stormy measured by the Help-Wanted in energy costs, which in turn enough to keep weekend shop- Index, have also dwindled. THURSDAY: Wet Seal’s fourth quarter. has depressed consumer spend- pers away from the malls. Richard Hastings, chief econ- Mipel leather goods show, Milan (through Sunday). ing on discretionary items. As re- Even when the weather im- omist for Cyber Business Credit, ported, Salomon Smith Barney proves in colder regions of the said, “The economy is headed FRIDAY: The Labor Department reports on the estimates that a 1 cent increase U.S., consumer attitudes might down. We are marching toward Consumer Price Index. in the price of gasoline trans- not: The Expectations compo- a bad intersection. The prob- International Vision Expo East, New York (through lates into a $1 billion decrease in nent of the confidence index fell lems, however, have little to do Sunday).

retail spending. 15.5 points to 65.6 in February. with Iraq. All of the problems COMING THIS WEEK Consumers already have indi- The Conference Board noted were in place prior to [the] Sept. SATURDAY: StyleMax show, Chicago (through March 25). cated that they’re feeling the earlier this month that consumer 11 [terrorist attacks].” heat, or at least the cost of pur- confidence has tumbled in all Continued on page 19 Wholesale Apparel Prices Dip Again In Brief DAS HOURS: The German parliament approved an amendment, By Kristi Ellis ducers are having to slash prices are primarily being impacted by effective June 1, allowing stores to stay open until 8 p.m. Saturdays, to hold on to market share.” fierce competition and imports. as opposed to 6 p.m. on the first Saturday of the month, and 4 p.m. WASHINGTON — The deflation- He said companies will con- “Domestic apparel producers otherwise. Weekday closing time remains 8 p.m., except for stores in ary cycle continued in February, tinue to feel the squeeze on are really feeling the pinch,” he railway stations and special tourist zones. Sunday openings remain as wholesale prices for domesti- margins due to unused capacity said. “They are struggling with largely taboo, though local authorities may designate a maximum of cally produced women’s apparel and falling prices. the whole import phenomenon four Sundays each year as “Shop Open Sundays,” in which stores slid 1.5 percent. “Over the course of the year, and facing cut-throat competi- can now stay open until 8 p.m. instead of 2 p.m. on those Sundays. Compared with February we will see many more plant tion overseas, and they are get- 2002, domestic wholesale prices closings and layoffs accelerat- ting pounded.” WALMEX IN CLEAR: Mexico’s antitrust agency closed its investi- for women’s fell 0.7 percent, ac- ing,” said McMillion. “The con- Among the categories of gation into the purchasing practices of Wal-Mart Stores Inc.’s south- cording to the Labor Depart- tinual price declines puts the women’s apparel tracked by the of-the-border division Walmex, under the condition that the retailer ment’s Producer Price Index re- profitability of more companies government with notable whole- follow a code of conduct when dealing with suppliers, said pub- leased Friday. in question.” sale price fluctuations were lished reports. In related Wal-Mart news, the stores is in talks to Wholesale prices for all ap- Meanwhile, wholesale prices hosiery, which plunged 7.1 per- acquire a significant stake in the supermarket chain Safeway PLC parel fell sharply by 0.9 percent for all finished goods for the cent last month but remained ahead of a ruling by the U.K. Department of Trade and Industry. last month and declined 0.5 per- month rose 1 percent, but econ- flat against a year ago, and cent against the year-ago month. omists blamed most of the in- dresses, which fell 3.4 percent PERRY ELLIS APPOINTS EVP SALES: Perry Ellis Prices for girls’, children’s and crease on soaring energy prices. in February and also remained International, Inc. announced Friday the appointment of Michael infants’ apparel bucked the Minus volatile energy and food flat against the year-ago month. Nicklas as executive vice president of sales for Jantzen, Inc., a trend, rising 2.9 percent in Feb- prices, the core index fell a sea- Producer prices for slacks, subsidiary of Perry Ellis. Nicklas will oversee all swimwear-re- ruary, although they were flat sonally adjusted 0.5 percent, ac- jeans and dungarees fell 2.2 per- lated apparel and accessories for Jantzen, Nike and Tommy against year-ago levels. cording to John Mothersole, sen- cent last month and were even Hilfiger. Nicklas most recently was senior vice president and na- Textile mill producer prices ior economist at Global Insight. to a year ago, while wholesale tional sales manager, department stores for the Speedo division also fell in February by 0.6 per- “We are getting these big ener- prices of separate tailored suit of Authentic Fitness. Nicklas will report directly to Oscar cent and dipped 0.5 percent gy-induced price increases, yet un- jackets fell 1.4 percent in the Feldenkreis, president and chief operating officer of Perry Ellis. year-to-year. derlying core prices are falling,” month and remained flat year- “There is just no pricing Mothersole said. “There is a di- over-year. On the plus side, power and it goes up and down chotomy between cost pressures prices for bathing suits rose 10.6 the supply chain,” said Charles manufacturers are obviously get- percent in February, but re- W. McMillion, chief economist at ting hit with and their [inability] mained flat against a year ago, Clarification MBG Information Services. “With to push those through to final while prices for skirts rose 4.1 The fashion agency KraftWorks, headed by Neil Kraft, created demand weakening, customer product prices, and as a result percent last month and edged the latest ad campaign for Cointreau. This was not clear in a competition intensifying and margins are still being squeezed.” up 0.3 percent compared with Memo Pad item on page 14, Friday. enormous unused capacity, pro- Mothersole said apparel prices February 2002. 3 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 17, 2003 ™ Chief financial officer Kyle Meanwhile, Manny Marrero, adding “We’re a number of consumer and apparel goods and technology sectors. Wescoat touted the international and production focus of licensing and brand development group Cherokee Inc. The Nuys, Van Calif.-based firm, broker of the 2000 licensing deal with Target and Mossimo Inc., introduced the Cherokee brand to France’s Tesco Carrefour SA and the U.K.’s last fall. it Recently, signed with Hearst Publications to represent the House Beautiful brand. chief financial officer at Santa Monica-based Mossimo, stressed the company’s growth strategy through Target’s expansion and its acquisition interest in other brands, although none are in the pipeline. Other sales drivers are new product categories and Mossimo’s international push, noting its alliance with the Zellers division of Hudson’s Bay Co. in Canada that includes Mossimo clothing and home accents bow- ing this spring to replace the Martha Stewart brand. designers to the group to grow our business in housewares,” Marrero said. With With his com- www.merchandisemart.com “We see the “We business women’s he ap- said women’s Currently, Schoenfeld declined to dis- Attracting about 250 atten- Vans’ CEO Schoenfeld CEO Vans’ Rebound Women’s Sees Sarkisian-Miller Nola By LOS ANGELES — pany stock down about 70 percent in the last year, Vans Inc. chief executive Gary Schoenfeld had a tough sell on his hands, but he piqued potential investor interest with his renewed merchandising focus on women. as very significant and exciting. It used to approach 30 to 40 percent of our business, and we’re not uncomfortable about getting it back to that,” Schoenfeld told an audience at the fourth annual B. Riley & Co. Investor Confer- ence last Thursday at the Los Angeles Airport Marriott hotel. parel and footwear make up “the low-double-digit range” of overall sales. He said women’s growth could occur in the next six to 18 months for the Santa Fe Springs, Calif.-based firm. cuss specifics prior to the company’s earnings conference call this Thursday. dees, the conference showcased 25-minute presentations from 48 companies, primarily from the Find it all in Chicago! STYLEMAX The Merchandise Mart resources — all in one convenient location. or call ServicesMart Travel at 800/528-8700. visit our site Web or call 800/677-6278. March 22–25, 2003 Continued on page 18 More than 4,000 top of apparel the and nation’s accessory For discounted hotel and airline rates, log on to site our Web Leading specialty stores everywhere are choosing STYLEMAX! For more information or to register for STYLEMAX, Icahn’s Icahn’s point is that in some he knew about the oil and gas industry. Icahn put him in his place, telling the “I’m banker, not here for an interview.” instances there is still an “attitude about how outsiders have no right to come in and make a bid,” somewhat akin to telling citizens to leave the war to the generals. — Carl Icahn Carl — THE ULTIMATE FASHION RESOURCE — FASHION CHICAGO THE ULTIMATE The M&A legend recalled an He was fairly critical of U.S. “Shareholders’ concerns are believe that shareholders have any rights. Management thinks that they own the company,” he said. incident involving his $4 billion bid to buy Phillips Petroleum. One of the investment bankers called him to arrange a meeting, and then proceeded to ask ques- tions ranging from why he wanted to buy the company to what chief executives and boards of directors, asserting that the real surprise about Enron, Tyco and other recent examples of corporate malfeasance was that they didn’t occur He sooner. felt that, in these situations and many others, the obligation to reward shareholders’ investments has been all but forgotten. nonexistent. Companies do not ” Carl Icahn, a leg-

The poison pill is supposed to give to supposed is pill poison The He cited Perry Ellis Inter- “I do think that a lot of them

He made that comment Thurs- “ shareholders rights, but the only thing only the but rights, shareholders not right the is shareholder a give they money. make to national Inc., itself in the process of acquiring Salant Corp., as one of the managerial outperformers. have been knocked down a great deal. Some will be Chapter 11 filings. Some are cheap, but you have to do something about management. [Some others] are just well run and they’re cheap at the same time,” Icahn pointed out. day in an interview following his presentation at the “The Buyouts Symposium,” hosted by Thomson Venture Economics, at the Wal- dorf Astoria here. By Vicki M. Young M. Vicki By NEW YORK — end in the world of mergers and acquisitions, believes that there are some good investment op- retail and apparel. portunities in Malfeasance Riles Carl Icahn Carl Riles Malfeasance 4 Kiera Amanda Ferragamo in London. Charlie’s Angel Chaplin NEW YORK — She might look like an angel, but Kiera Chaplin is hell-bent on proving she’s not. She’s got Oona’s good looks, Charlie’s rebellious streak and she’s ready to rock. The screen legend’s 20-year-old granddaughter, who is busy recording her first album in Los Angeles, earned a reputation posing for steamy photos during her modeling career, “but I was a rebel way before that,” she says. “It’s

WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 17, 2003 WWD, MONDAY, in my blood. I don’t know if it’s the Chaplin side or the Irish side, but I’ve always been tough.” Modeling was just “a phase. It’s what I did to get away from home. — Kiera” Chaplin She certainly shook things up during her school days in Switzerland. “I was a nightmare,” admits Chaplin, who was born in Ireland. “The teach- ers hated me and I was always in trouble. When Basseville, Chaplin runs I was 13, I dyed my hair a Swiss entertainment every color.” company focused on It’s no surprise that product placement, film the album she’s putting production and distribu- together is full-throttled, tion and collecting film raging electro-rock. “I libraries. like trash rock, punk and And who in techno,” says Chaplin, Hollywood wouldn’t take who cites both Marilyn a meeting with a Manson and Björk as in- Chaplin? Throughout fluences. “When I was her life, people have re- modeling I was asked by acted strongly to her a couple of record labels iconic last name, but to sing something that never more so than in was all put together, you The new “Fashion Lounge” CD. Los Angeles, where she know, like Britney has lived for the past Tuscan Stakes Spears — a fake thing. But I was never in- year-and-a-half. “It’s really weird,” she LONDON — Amanda Ferragamo had never thought about writing terested in doing that.” says. “You meet some people who will hate a book — “I am heavily dyslexic,” she says — until a few years ago And though over the past few years you for it and some people who will love when she woke up at 3 a.m. and began penning a story about a Chaplin has appeared in several small you for it.” eye® bombed-out villa, a Scottish terrier and the team of Italian con- movies, it will take an equally edgy role to Though she couldn’t be less interested struction workers she may — or may not — have tamed. coax her back onto the set. “I’m still open in modeling, Chaplin nonetheless con- The result is “Seven Years in Tuscany,” Ferragamo’s account of to reading scripts,” she says, “but I’m look- tributed a electro-peppy song to “Fashion the time she spent rebuilding Il Borro, the 1,750-acre Tuscan estate that she ing for the perfect roles. I see myself in a Lounge,” a dance music CD compiled by and her husband, Ferruccio Ferragamo, from whom she is now separated, certain way and I won’t just play anybody. I Paolo Zampolli of ID Models, to be re- bought in 1993. want tough parts, the kind that Angelina leased Tuesday. “Modeling was just a “I wrote this in three months, by hand, from memory,” says Ferragamo, who Jolie does, or action movies, a really cool phase,” she says. “It’s what I did to get has returned to her native England after living in Florence since the late comedy or maybe a scary movie.” away from home and do my own thing.” Sixties. “And yes, I’d say it was a purge.” Lately, Hollywood’s business side has And Chaplin, in case you hadn’t noticed, is The book, which will be launched in New York provided more fascination. In partnership dead set on doing her own thing. with a book party at Saks Fifth Avenue on April 3, is with her father, Eugene, and fiancé, Ale de — Jessica Kerwin one part how-to manual — “Skirting boards are important and they need to be quite deep,” she writes — and one part nesting philosophy: “A house can almost talk to you: Standing in ruins, it will tell you through empty windows and stairs going nowhere how it was, who lived in it.” EYE SCOOP But Ferragamo also devotes pages to the infamous HAUTE IN HERRE: It might have Tuscan laborers who were clearly not used to having been too racy for prime-time, an English signora not only telling them what to do, but curator Harold Koda is happy but asking them to do it over again. to include the scandalously “I don’t think they ever expected me, as a woman, sheer Chanel gown Jennifer to be there, talking about the density of the cement,” Lopez wore to the Oscars in she says. The workers were required not to re-lay tiles 2001 in the upcoming that weren’t quite right, tear down a new staircase because it looked “too ‘Gone “Goddess” exhibition at the With the Wind,’” and work through rain and snow. Metropolitan Museum of Art’s “There was a slight drizzle one day, so everyone decided to take a break,” Costume Institute. He compares Ferragamo says. “I said ‘What is this break for?’ In England, if we stopped for the diva’s look with the nipple- the weather, we’d all be living in tents!” The workers, in turn, poked fun at her revealing wet draperies worn by Italian, often wandered off the job, and secretly named the stray cat they found the Nike of Samothrace and her Screen after her. peers, sculpted during the goddess Today, the 19th-century villa, which had been bombed to bits by the Germans Hellenistic age. Jennifer The “Goddess” A Gucci during World War II, serves as the Ferragamo family’s country home. The grounds “I’m trying to juxtapose Lopez. party invite. goddess. have been transformed into a working farm and the medieval village restored. something contemporary and In the foreword to the book, Ferragamo’s brother, Sir Michael Peat, who re- very heated up with this notion of connecting it to the roots of classicism,” he said. “Today, designers signed as the private secretary to Prince Charles last week, and was Queen are using classicism for an explicitly erotic end.” Elizabeth’s former accountant, pays tribute to his sister’s chutzpah. Of course, Tom Ford, for one, knows all about explicit eroticism. Ford will co-chair the Costume “Neither Amanda nor Ferruccio had any significant experience of restoring Institute benefit on April 28, along with Vogue’s Anna Wintour and Nicole Kidman, and dresses from his old buildings or of land management, and I wondered whether they fully ap- fall 2002 Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent collections will be included in the show. Sure, there will be preciated what they were taking on,” he writes. perfectly draped Mme. Grès dresses on display, too, but the saucy contemporary angle ensures “a Although Amanda has not returned to Il Borro since she left in the summer bigger spectrum of the public is going to be able to enjoy the show,” said Koda. of 2000, she insists she doesn’t miss it. Just to send their steamy point home, last week gala invitations went out printed with a blush- “It’s done, over. It comes into my dreams, though. And when I’m walking inducing image courtesy of Helmut Newton. What’s next, Nelly as MC? past a building site, I can’t help but think to myself ‘Where’s the piping going to go? And how is the electrical wiring going to be installed?’” FAMILY FIRST: Renée Zellweger made her way to Pace, a Laurel Canyon spot frequented by area locals, Today, she writes a column for 213, a Los Angeles magazine, and is carving for a quiet dinner with the family on Thursday night. But when George Clooney showed up — on his out a new life in London. “Now I want to live! I want time to go to the hair- vintage motorcycle, no less — the Zellweger clan could hardly compete. The Oscar nominee introduced dresser, to go to lunch, to travel, to be a woman,” she says. What would the Clooney all around, then turned her attention on Clooney and Clooney alone, chatting with the workmen think of that? heartthrob all night.

— Samantha Conti INVITE GODDESS VESPA/WIREIMAGE; JEFF BY CHAPLIN JENKINS; TIM BY PHOTOS FERRAGAMO GUCCI OF COURTESY SARDELLA;GUCCI DONATO BY LOPEZ MITRA; ROBERT BY 5 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 17, 2003 ” — Kristin Larson Kristin — Bucciarelli, previously pres- In a related move, Anne also will oversee the men’s Axcess brand sold in Kohl’s stores. and Mervyn’s ident of Liz Claiborne’s accessories group, will report to Trudy Sullivan, also executive vice president, along with Wi- nans, who was president of Liz Claiborne casual Bucciarelli is responsible brands. for the design, development and merchandising of accessories and product extensions for the Liz Claiborne portfolio. Winans’ role will now encompass Liz Claiborne casual, collection and Liz Claiborne Woman, its plus-size division. Cashill has been appointed vice president of corporate merchandising and design. Previously, she was the director of this department. Cashill is responsible for the communication of all product and lifestyle trend information. — Paul R. Charron, Liz Claiborne Inc. Claiborne Liz Charron, R. Paul — Liz Claiborne These appointments bring further “These appointments bring McCluskey, formerly presi- On Friday, On the Friday, firm appoint- “ clarity and consistency to the management structure that deals with our customers on a daily basis. Claiborne Promotes Claiborne President Group to 4 further clarity and consistency to the management structure that deals with our customers on a daily basis,” R. Paul Char- ron, chairman and chief execu- said in a statement. tive officer, dent of special markets over- seeing the company’s moderate brands, and who Murray, had been president of Claiborne, DKNY Jeans for men and Crazy Horse men’s, will both report to Angela Ahrendts, executive vice president. Murray NEW YORK — Inc. has promoted four members of its executive team in a move to better support its domestic markets and products. ed Ed Bucciarelli, Helen Mc- Karen Murray Cluskey, and to group Winans president Fritz roles. A company spokeswoman said these are all new positions and not related to anyone leav- ing or being promoted. So how has Bluefly avoided As reported, Bluefly sus- and experience provided by Internet retailers is surpassing that provided by traditional brick-and-mortar retailers.” going the way Internet of firms, as well as so the many promotional sock “When puppet? you’re looking to raise there’s money, nothing like having a great team that has, in most cases, performed up to or Seiff. its plans,” said exceeded tained a $1.7 million loss during the fourth quarter, partially at- tributable to marketing initia- tives, which helped lift sales 24.7 percent to $9.9 million. “I don’t think [Soros] ever in- Companies with a business of love with all things Web. vested in us because they wanted to invest in the Internet,” said president and chief executive Ken Seiff in a telephone inter- the “From view. early days, their interest was driven by our business model and our team and the ability of the Internet to modern- industry.” ize the off-price may be focus down on in the Web the stock market, but they are not out, he said. “The perform- ances of Internet companies that are still here today have been nothing short of extraordinary. The levels of customer service The Bluefly home page. Bluefly Inc. has a

So far, So Soros far, has pumped Due to the financing, the con- Bluefly investors were de- This latest infusion in- Additionally, Soros Additionally, made a In return, Bluefly issued Soros The financier granted the off- about $50 million into Bluefly, more than $40 million of which was invested after March 2000 when investors began to fall out version price of the Series firm’s B and Series C Preferred Stock decreased to 76 cents from 93 cents. This will create a $225,000 noncash charge in the first quarter. lighted by Soros’ confidence and traded up shares of the firm 17 cents, or 22.1 percent, to close at 94 cents on the Nasdaq Friday. creased Soros’ stake in Bluefly to about 89.7 percent from near 86.9 percent. standby commitment to provide an standby commitment to provide additional $1 million in funding. about $7.1 million of its Series D Convertible Preferred Stock that will earn dividends at the rate of 12 percent annually, payable in cash or stock, at the company’s option, upon conversion. price fashion e-tailer $2 million in new capital, erased more than $3 million of its debt and exchanged $2.1 million of its Series 2002 Convertible Pre- ferred Stock. guardian angel in the form of George Soros and Soros Private Equity Partners. By Evan Clark Evan By NEW YORK — Soros Adds to Bluefly Capital Bluefly to Adds Soros 6 Ralph Lauren Prada Michael Kors WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 17, 2003 WWD, MONDAY,

Fall accessories are as eclectic as the season’s clothes, which ranged from ladylike, elegant looks slightly reminiscent of the Fifties or early Sixties to futuristic Space- Age styles. Ralph Lauren featured civilized chandelier earrings and sleek boots, for example, while mile-high platforms turned up at Christian Dior and wacky mukluks at Fendi. Meanwhile, bags ranged from Borbonese’s simple clutches to Matthew Williamson’s bold circles of leather, and fur versions were another new rage.

Gucci Matthew Williamson Balenciaga

Narciso Rodriguez The Body The Eclectic ID TURNER ID

7 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 17, 2003 DAV AND MITRA ROBERT MAESTRI, DAVIDE GIANNONI, GIOVANNI FEUGERE, STEPHANE ERICKSEN, KYLE CHINSEE, GEORGE AQUINO, JOHN BY PHOTOS Dolce & Gabbana Fendi Alexander McQueen Dior Christian Chanel Borbonese Marc by Marc Jacobs Oscar de la Renta Anna Sui Louis Vuitton 8 Accessories/Fine Jewelry Report A Quiet Renaissance in Online Jewelry Sales By Melanie Kletter Ice.com began as Buyjewel.com in 1999 and was purchased in 2000 by Idealab, the Internet incubator compa- NEW YORK — Online jewelry sites flourished in the late ny that fostered companies such as Eve.com, Jobs.com Nineties during the Internet boom, but many of those and Tickets.com, many of whom are no longer in business. were fly-by-night businesses that either went bankrupt Under Idealab, the name was changed and before even a or fell apart as the ’Net sector crashed. year had passed the climate for Web companies had gone WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 17, 2003 WWD, MONDAY, Now, in more somber times, online fine jewelry sales south and Idealab planned to close the business, said are experiencing a quiet renaissance. Jewelry was a Mayer Gniwisch, a founder of Ice.com and the current di- standout category online during the 2002 holiday sea- rector of product development. son, both at so-called pure-play online sites and for the “We bought the name back and are now privately Internet divisions of firms such as Tiffany, Zales and owned,” said Gniwisch. “We had a lot of debt to settle, but Wal-Mart, and sales have continued to climb this year. we did, and now we are profitable.” In 2002, online jewelry sales totaled $1.1 billion, up Last year, Ice.com had sales of about $22 million and from $900 million in 2001, according to Jupiter Research, its business is growing steadily, Gniwisch said. The which measures Web traffic and sales. This number rep- Montreal-based company is run by Mayer and his two resents a healthy chunk of total fine jewelry sales of $41 brothers and a brother-in-law, all of whom also happen billion. Perhaps more importantly, some of these sites are to be rabbis, although they are not practicing now. starting to achieve profitability, a concept foreign to many Goldspeed.com, meanwhile, was founded about five of the early online jewelry merchants. years ago and specializes in mid-range fine jewelry ranging Analysts and market watchers attribute the growth in in price from about $50 to $7,000, according to Kugelman. large part to an increased comfort level of people shop- “We run the business like an old-fashioned business,” ping the Web, as well as improved levels of service and he noted. “We are focused on pleasing the customer, not operations from the sites still in business. on pleasing the investor.” “A few years ago, shoppers were largely buying CDs Among the bricks-and-mortar jewelry crowd, online and books over the Internet, and now there are more sales are growing, although they are still a relatively small people buying categories with higher prices,” said Ken part of the overall business, said company executives. At Cassar, a senior analyst at Jupiter Research. Zales Jewelers, online sales are still less than 5 percent of “Every Internet business was an experiment,” said a overall volume, according to a company spokesman. spokesman for Bluenile.com, an Internet jewelry site. “Our site has been an evolution,” the spokesman said. “The ones still around are those businesses that are op- “Basically, now, we want our site to reflect our store ex- erated well and that are not just selling something on- perience as much as possible, since building our brand line for the sake of selling something online.” name is a key part of our overall strategy.” Another factor driving sales is price, since many jew- The best-performing items at zales.com are generally elry items sold online carry lower tags than comparable the less expensive merchandise, specifically items that items available at traditional jewelry stores. retail for less than $5,000, according to the spokesman. “Our prices are lower than jewelry sold in stores be- At Tiffany, direct marketing sales, a category that in- cause we don’t have overhead costs to keep the store cludes Internet, catalog and corporate business sales, and for things like showcases, carpets and security From top: Bluenile.com caters to male shoppers; Ice.com, like surged 11 percent to $179.2 million in 2002, representing guards,” said Neil Kugelman, chief executive officer at other online jewelry retailers, has achieved profitability. about 11 percent of overall sales. The site launched in Goldspeed.com. 1999 with only about 240 stockkeeping units and now The market leaders for pure-play sites now are many of whom may not always be comfortable shopping there are about 2,000 sku’s, according to Mark Aaron, vice Bluenile.com, Ice.com, Goldspeed.com and Diamond.com, in traditional jewelry stores. “Many men are confused by president of investor relations. according to analysts and market watchers. Among the the traditional process of buying jewelry,” said the compa- “Our Internet business has attracted a new customer, many online jewelry sites no longer in business are ny spokesman. “We offer a lot of information and try to people we believe that were historically intimated by Miadora.com, Adornis.com, Enjewel.com, Firstjewel- make the buying experience very educational.” Tiffany and afraid to cross the threshold into the store,” ry.com, Ijewelry.com and Jewelry.com, which has since The site started with engagement rings, but now car- said Aaron. “Now, they can visit Tiffany and take a peek been purchased by jewelry manufacturer Andin ries everything from pearls to 18-karat gold and dia- through our online business.” International, and relaunched as an information site. mond necklaces, with the bulk of sales still coming from While Tiffany doesn’t specifically break out the per- Ashford.com, which began as an online watch retail- engagement rings. Its sales surged to $72 million in 2002, formance of its Internet division, Aaron said sales were er, was one of the highest flyers, eventually going public. up from $48 million in 2001, and the company achieved up more than 50 percent in 2002 over 2001 and have al- However, the firm struggled to achieve profitability and profitability last year, the spokesman said. ready surpassed catalog sales. shore up its operations. The firm was sold twice during Many of the online-only sites are thriving without throw- One category not found on the Tiffany site is engage- 2002 and is now a division of Diamond.com. ing pricey luncheons and fancy events, and instead are fo- ment rings, a category that most of the other online jewel- Seattle-based Bluenile.com has been building up a fol- cused on achieving profitability and sales. Ice.com and ers push heavily. Aaron said, “We feel it’s an important lowing since its launch in 1999 by marketing to men — Goldspeed.com also say they have achieved profitability. enough purchase that people should come into the store.” The International Fashion Jewelry and Accessory Show IFJAG NEW YORK Where Design Means Business WJA’s past presidents and early founders. Be inspired by Eli Haas and Steven Kaiser of Kaiser Time. over 300 sources “Our goals are to continue to raise additional WJA Salutes Its Past money for our scholarship funds and increase of fashion design. our mentoring program,” Anna Martin, the cur- NEW YORK — After 20 years, the Women’s rent WJA president, told the crowd. “We also Jewelry Association still knows how to party. want to make WJA a global organization.” MAY 4TH - MAY 7TH The professional organization celebrated its The organization was founded in 1983 at the Roosevelt Hotel 20th anniversary March 3 with a lively cocktail behest of a small group of women in New Madison Avenue at 45th Street affair at Doubles in the Sherry Netherland England who felt that women needed their own 2 Blocks from Grand Central Terminal. Hotel here. Many of the WJA’s early members organization in the jewelry industry. The WJA Show hours 9am to 6pm. and past presidents came out to celebrate, in- now has more than 1,000 members, including cluding Gerry Gerwitz, Linda Goldstein, Tina men, and a wide range of activities and programs. INTERNATIONAL FASHION JEWELRY Seegal, Peggy Kirby, Rachel Rosin, Toni Lyn Martin said WJA will be celebrating its an- 914 .761. 9019 www.jewelrytradeshows.com Judd and Helene Fortunoff. The crowd also in- niversary all year, and noted that the group’s an- AND ACCESSORY GROUP Fashion Jewelry • Accessories • Gifts • Hair Accessories • Watches cluded industry executives such as Patricia niversary slogan is “Looking back with pride, Hambrecht of Harry Winston, diamond dealer looking forward with promise.” PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER STEVE BY PHOTO Crystallized Attraction New Colors White Alabaster and Light Topaz

Swarovski Crystal makes a powerful statement! The two new colors, White Alabaster and Light Topaz, are exclusive innovations available only from Swarovski! White Alabaster, full of tenderness and refinement and Light Topaz, radiant, sunny and bright. Both colors evoke a strong sense of emotion, luck and grace. Jazz up your creations with these two new trend colors for the upcoming season and make Swarovski Crystal Fashion Components your own personal statement! For more information contact your Swarovski Sales Office: SWAROVSKI NORTH AMERICA LTD. · 1 Kenney Drive, Cranston, R.I. 02920-7935, USA · Tel. 001/401/781 8610, Fax 001/401/781 8373, Toll free: 1-800-463 0849 · SWAROVSKI CREATIVE SERVICE CENTER · 29 West 57th Street, 8th Floor, New York, NY 10019 · Tel. 001/212/935 4200, Fax 001/212/935 8800, Toll free 1-877-888 7980 · www.swarovski.com

New Color New Color New Bead New Cross Light Topaz White Alabaster Art. 5040 Art. 6866 10 Accessories Vendors Travel the Value Route By Marc Karimzadeh

NEW YORK — They’re facing a challenging road ahead, but accessories vendors are bracing themselves for the journey with improvements in quality, better value-price WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 17, 2003 WWD, MONDAY, ratios and more looks with longevity. During the market earlier this month, many firms launched their fall assortments to major department and specialty stores, which typically write the lion’s share of orders for the fall season that week. “Spring is starting to sell through and buyers are coming in with a positive attitude, looking to buy,” said Doreen Salerno, brand director at Adrienne Vittadini, which has been expanding its accessories assortment. “But the perceived value needs to be there. The consumer is addressing a lot of issues, from unemployment to war…but she wants to spend money on something she can feel great about.” For fall, Adrienne Vittadini honed in on or- Embossed leather and a touch of embroidery Nautica’s new handbags include looks for the beach and the ange and olive green colors with more struc- topped handbag trends at Adrienne Vittadini. soccer field, as well as the office. tured hobo shapes, resin handles, hardware and touches of embroidery. The company also managing director. from his signature resin snake to panther adornments, added evening bags to the collection, includ- Nautica Enterprises is furthering its for little structured bags in croc-like leather and paw- ing metallic alligator-like embossed leather reach into the women’s arena with the print metallics, pinstripe suede and red and black satin. and top-handle bags with jewel-like hard- launch of its new handbag collection. The line wholesales from $75 to $175, and distribution is ware. Wholesale prices range from Also produced under license by aimed at higher-end specialty and department stores. $74 to $84. Wathne, the first collection in- Sales projections are about $2 million, said Nathalie Michelle Hatch, designer at cludes a comprehensive range Martin Schettini, owner of the Martin Schettini jewelry Monsac, said: “Because the dol- of products with styles in ma- line and a sales consultant for the line. lar isn’t as strong as it had been terials such as denim, nylon Mallorca, Spain-based Dominique Guinabert present- against the euro, we have to find and embossed suede. ed a line of costume jewelry featuring bold Swarovski ways of keeping materials inter- Most of the bags are made crystals strung together in clusters and mixed with col- esting while maintaining price in cloth fabrics, not in leather, ored Spanish pearls for rings, bracelets and earrings. points…such as metallics, em- although some have leather Wholesale price points range from $29 for bracelets and bossings and laser processes.” reinforcements. There is a vari- rings to $165 for a heavy necklace. Donna Waxman, U.S. Last week, for example, the Bonjour is launching handbags for fall distribution. ety of sizes, including wristlets, agent, said the line targets specialty stores, with first- dollar was worth 0.93 euros. oversized totes, medium-size year sales projections of $250,000. “Novelty in the form of overembellishment is really handbags and messenger bags, and some come with an- Another newcomer was Majique, a jewelry brand from disappearing and being replaced by more interesting other smaller bag on the inside that can be separated London being distributed in the U.S. by Habitat, the New leathers and surface treatments,” said Roy Kean, owner and worn alone. Most of the collection has a sporty feel York-based costume jewelry and accessories company. of handbag showroom Accessories That Matter. that seems designed for moms on the soccer The contemporary collection includes some Key fall trends include: field and the beach, although some styles are semiprecious stones, as well as plenty of Embossed croc-like leather and metallics. for the office, as well. beads and wood. Among its top styles are Structured hobos and knitting bags. David Chu, Nautica’s vice chairman chandelier earrings, necklaces and cross Tapestry and discreet embroidery. and chief creative officer, is working Jewelry from Majique, pendants, mostly in silver, although Resin hardware and woven or embroidered straps. closely with the licensee to develop some is gold plated. Wholesale prices an English line now Charms and leather cords. the handbag collection. being distributed here. range from about $2.50 to $16. Orange and olive or moss green. “I am designing for a woman’s Marc Schwartz, president of “The revival of the Sixties is inspiring the metallic lifestyle needs,” Chu said. “There are Habitat, which primarily makes pri- trend,” said Robert Rokoff, creative director at handbag a lot of functional details and many vate label jewelry, expects first-year firm Maxx New York. “Consumers will be looking to go of the bags are versatile and can be volume for the line to hit between $1.5 to their department or better specialty stores to find used for a variety of occasions.” million and $2 million, targeting de- something new of good quality but that’s fashionable.” With retail prices of $30 to $200, partment and specialty stores. In “For fall, stores are looking for things that are happy,” Wathne expects the collection to gener- England, Majique is sold in department said Karen Ericksen, co-owner of Showroom Seven. ate wholesale sales of $3.5 million in the stores such as Harrods and Selfridge’s, as “People want to have something uplifting. Anything first season, according to a company well as some chains, including Top Shop dreary in terms of color is not selling.” spokeswoman. Distribution will be targeted and River Island. A slew of new or relaunched players entered the to Nautica’s existing distribution network, Costume jewelry firm Miriam Haskell relo- scene during market. Denim brand Bonjour launched which includes department and specialty stores, and cated its showroom and corporate offices to 390 Fifth its bags in a license with Wathne Ltd., which also manu- products will make their debut at retail this June for fall Avenue from 49 West 37th Street. The 16,000-square-foot factures handbags and small leather goods for Ralph selling. In 2004, Wathne plans to introduce Nautica belts space includes a showroom, design studio and corporate Lauren. Bonjour’s collection features reversible nylon and start distributing the handbags internationally, the offices. The building was designed by architect Stanford bags, weekenders, yoga bags and styles in nylon, denim, spokeswoman said.“We feel there is a huge opportunity White, whose work includes Madison Square Garden. velvet and corduroy with a ruffled edge. in women’s,” said Chu. The company celebrated its new home with a party dur- Many pieces feature the company’s signature orange Kenneth Jay Lane relaunched a collection of hand- ing market week attended by a number of buyers and press, color in topstitching or linings. Retail prices range from bags in a new licensing pact with Essential Accessories, as well as Denise Seegel and Andy Hilfiger, president and $30 to $65, with distribution aimed at department and a New York-based manufacturer. co-owner respectively of Sweetface Fashion Co., the hold- specialty stores. First-year projections are $8 million to The Italian-made line of 100 styles draws from his ing company for the JLo clothing line and accessories. $10 million, according to Carmine Porcelli, Bonjour’s fashion jewelry and heavily features jewel elements, — With contributions from Melanie Kletter

Network; Danskin president and ceo Carol Hochman; and Michael Cangemi, president and Summer in the City in March ceo at Aigner Group. NEW YORK — Spring break was in the air earlier “We want to make sure the accessories indus- You are invited this month when the Accessories Council teamed try feels welcome in our home,” said Claudio to the 6th annual up with Safilo Group to celebrate accessories mar- Gottardi, Safilo’s U.S. president and ceo. New York, New York ket week and kickoff QVC’s annual Cure by the The evening ended with a silent auction of 49 ® Shore charity event, set for May lots, which included handbags 17 in Malibu, Calif. from Gucci, Christian Dior and Whole Bead Show The party, at Safilo’s Fifth Yves Saint Laurent, a leather Now, two ballrooms over flowing with all beads and jewels to fulfill your dreams. Avenue showroom, took its ottoman by Fendi, a china and cues from beach life, with silverware set by Calvin Klein waiters in Hawaiian shirts and even a full-page ad in New York’s Hotel Pennsylvania • Penn Top & Sky Top ballrooms and slick sunglasses serving Seventeen magazine. A portion 18th Floor • 401 7th Avenue between 32nd and 33rd cool mohitas to Seventies of the proceeds will benefit the Across from Madison Square Garden disco tunes. National Multiple Sclerosis Some 250 guests turned QVC’s Lee Richardson, Sheila Block and Society. “We have a silent auc- March 21st – 23rd, 2003 Friday & Saturday 10 AM to 6 PM Sunday 12 noon to 5 PM • • out, from Lil’ Kim, Miss Claudio Gottardi. tion because it is a wonderful Wholesale • Retail • Open to the public • Admission is $5.00 for all buyers/attendees Universe Justine Pacek, Miss USA Shauntay way to raise money for a charity,” noted Sheila Wholesale buyers must bring a copy of their resale license Hinton and Heatherette designers Richie Rich Block, executive director of the Accessories For a list of merchants or to sign up for a workshop go to www.wholebead.com and Trevor Rains to such industry veterans as Council. “It’s also a guiltless pleasure — almost.” Abe Chehebar, chairman and ceo of Accessory — Marc Karimzadeh QVC PHOTOQVC BY STEVEAQUINOJOHN IANNACCONE, THOMAS BY PHOTOS HANDBAG EICHNER; AND KYLE ERICKSEN 11 Innerwear Report MONDAY,WWD, 2003 17, MARCH

TOP TRENDS

Contemporary daywear items, especially camis, boy-cut briefs Luxe and Glitz Lead Fall and thongs, and pants that can be mixed or matched. By Karyn Monget That’s the type of thing you don’t sell in the Midwest this time of Dual-purpose, designer-name NEW YORK — Styles with a glint year. It’s more a reflection of the sleepwear and at-homewear of glamour and a sense of luxury weather and I think the con- that is active inspired, has the are proving to be the winning sumer is ready for spring mer- look of casual sportswear or has formula for fall. chandise and a change.” a dressier look for entertaining Retailers placing orders for Pawlak added that he had at home. fall merchandise this month “good hopes” for sleepwear by showed a conservative posture Lauren By Ralph Lauren and A lifestyle statement from as the economy continued to Lucky Brand innerwear. one brand: daywear, drag in February. Buyers said Jack Klor, foundations buyer foundations and at-homewear they were re-examining where at Carson’s, said new product, that can be merchandised as they were putting their open-to- logos and marketing for the separates. buy dollars with en eye toward Warner’s and The Body by Nan- the potential clout of new brands cy Ganz brands at Warnaco Special-looking bras that to the sector, such as Lucky “looked good.” feature special effects and Brand innerwear at Charles However, he said: “there color through cross-dyed laces Komar & Sons and Aisease at weren’t a lot of new releases in instead of heavy embellishments JWE Silk, as well as European the market. There were much and combinations of labels like Aubade, Chantelle, more controlled releases. We are smooth microfiber and fancy lace. Princesse Tam Tam, and 6ixty being more cautious with rolling 8ight, which staged a fashion out new, big ideas into all doors. A rich color palette, including show and cocktail party to rev “We had a good February,” he a family of berry shades, recognition. continued, “but the first 10 days light-to-dark browns, violet, In addition to Madison Ave- of March were a little difficult. MITRA ROBERT AND ERICKSEN KYLE BY PHOTOS mauve and muted gold and silver. nue showrooms, buyers had a We’re playing it cautious because Natori’s rose-embroidered mesh cami and briefs; Betty Boop stars at wealth of international labels to of the economy.” shop at two trade shows: Ling- Donna Wolff, vice president French Jenny Johns at Richard Leeds International. erie Americas at the Metro- and dmm of intimate apparel and better than I’ve seen in a long Nick & Nora. Two other brands be casual in T-shirts and jeans, politan Pavilion & Altman and hosiery at Bloomingdale’s, said, time. There was a lot of clarity that exhibited at both shows are but they continue to buy special the Intimate Apparel Salon at the “There’s definitely a return to out there.” also on Graves’ order list: NK lingerie. Millennium Broadway Hotel. fashion and color, and the con- Graves said she will order and Cosabella. “Flora Nikrooz and Cosabella The consensus from mer- sensus is that anything new will items from Frou Frou, Saman- Assessing what is currently are wonderful for us,” she contin- chants was that a mix of mild sell. Oscar de la Renta [pink tha Chang, Fantasie of England selling at Isabel Eland, a New ued, “and pajamas by Natori and weather in the Midwest had label] sleepwear at Carole Hoch- and Freya, which were shown at Canaan, Conn.-based specialty Cotn are blowing out of the store. sparked lingerie sales, while the man looked phenomenal; DKNY Lingerie Americas, as well as retailer, co-owner Margaret I also plan to reorder knits by crippling snow and ice storms in Underwear looked very hip and several resources who exhibited Lupo said: “It’s a different situa- Hanky Panky and Mary Green, the Northeast and Southeast had fresh with an edge to it, and at the salon show: On Gossamer, tion the way women are dress- and bridal looks from Priamo taken a toll on Presidents’ Day Lejaby made a lot of progress Kiyomi PJs, Flora Nikrooz and ing nowadays. They may want to and Verena.” promotions. with a renewed commitment on Despite the angst of war and a the part of Warnaco to go after stagnant economy, orders have that discerning customer.” begun to filter in. Vendors said Wolff said she was pleased the purchasing pattern was going with Eileen West sleepwear at INTIMA America two ways: Major department Charles Komar, which she de- stores and national chains are scribed as “updated and younger buying “on history,” replenishing looking,” and Calvin Klein day- u New Location u Fabulous Fashion Shows inventories with basic silhou- wear, which “looked very good.” u Largest Show Ever On u Over 250 Domestic and ettes that have a proven track Wolff said several other One Floor International Exhibitors record and lacing orders with brands, such as On Gossamer, the same styles in fashion colors, Princesse Tam Tam, Champion while major specialty stores and and Danskin, also had strong boutiques are going all the way product. with fashion. “Daywear business is strong- Anne Caetano, vice president er than bra business, as far as and divisional merchandise opportunity,” said Ann Cox, manager of intimate apparel and foundations and daywear buyer hosiery at Saks Fifth Avenue, at Neiman Marcus. said she thought fall offerings “The Infinity group by looked “amazing.” Cosabella is fabulous, and I She continued: “It all looked liked the combination of day- so new and fresh that I was very wear and pants. I also thought inspired. What was really great Natori black label daywear was every vendor had their own looked excellent with the addi- point of view. This market was a tion of long pants, which is ex- return to glamour, luxury and panding the category.” gift-giving ideas. I saw missed Pam Williams, owner of opportunities we should have Night Gallery, a lingerie, appar- had in the past.” el and accessories shop in Caetano cited several brands Chapel Hill, N.C., said, “It was as strong contenders for fall: great seeing lots of new, inter- daywear and sleepwear by Nat- esting merchandise. I feel it will ori black label, which she de- stimulate business for me, even scribed as “stunning,” the Oscar though there will be price re- de la Renta navy label sleepwear sistance. But you’ve got to give collection at Carole Hochman for consumers something special “getting better and better,” and that will make them want to sep- La Perla for its upscale specialty arate with their money.” foundations. From the salon fair, Williams She noted that Flora Nikrooz said she was ordering slips, and Jonquil offered a “big oppor- camis and thongs from a new tunity” in the special-occasion designer, Caname, and a new arena, while foundations by group of bras by Cotton Club. At Argentovivo at NAP Inc. and the Lingerie Americas show, she Aubade were “very strong.” said she plans to buy lingerie Bob Pawlak, vice president from Manuel Canovas, lingerie and dmm of intimate apparel and swimwear from Eres and and coats at Milwaukee-based Huit, and lingerie from an August 3-5, 2003 For information contact: Messe Frankfurt, Inc. Carson Pirie Scott, said, “We are Italian label, Adea. Tel: 770.984.8016, Fax: 770.984.8023 www.usa.messefrankfurt.com, [email protected] looking for newness, but we Barbara Graves, owner of the North Pavilion have to justify it on the basis of eponymous lingerie boutique in Jacob Javits Center it being salable. We’ve recently Little Rock, Ark., said, “I do had a few good sparks with think vendors were trying to tell New York, NY camis, shorts and short sets. a fashion story and it was much 12 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 17, 2003 Rue Royale, (331)4-451-1300.WASHINGTON 20045:52914th Medina (Eye);NewYork: Evan WilliamCotto;DanBurrows, 633-8461. CHICAGO60611:875N.MichiganAve., Suite 1410, Shorts Garden, WC2H9AU, (44207)240-0420.LOSShorts ANGELES WWD Sportswear News:JuleeGreenberg,JoshuaGreene,Kristin Sportswear 90048: 6300WilshireBlvd.,Suite720(323) 951-1800.MILAN (312) 649-6539. 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JR., ChiefOperatingOfficer Kristin Finn;Furs: BobbiQueen;Innerwear/Bodywear: ENFRL.M.GUNN,SpecialSectionsCopyEditor JENNIFER EDWARD VP, NARDOZA, AssociateEditorialDirector Outerwear: Rosemary Feitelberg; Rosemary Ready-to-WearOuterwear: and ROSE APODACAJONES,BureauChief, LosAngeles VANESSA MAHLAB, AssociatePublisher,VANESSA MAHLAB, Sportswear SUSAN KILKENNY,AccountManager, FineJewelry. Magnaghi, AntoniaSardone;Textiles: DanielaGilbert Clark, JenniferWeitzman, VickiM.Young (Financial PATRICK McCARTHY, EditorialDirector Chairman, can befaxedto630-4201;Production: 630-4475 (Beauty); Boston:KatherineBowers;Washington: Milan: LESLEYCALHOUN:GroupPublisher, Milan Kyle Ericksen, Thomas Iannaccone, Robert Mitra, Kyle Ericksen,ThomasIannaccone,Robert JULIE NAUGHTON, Prestige Market BeautyEditor PAUL BERNARD,West CoastAccountExecutive SCOTT MALONE, Associate Sportswear Editor, MALONE,SCOTT AssociateSportswear Beauty: MatthewW. Evans,AndreaM.G.Nagel, VALERIE SECKLER, MarketingEditor, Statistics IAMAGNUS,West CoastAccountExecutive LISA EDWARD Sr. LEIDA, VP, GroupDesignDirector MELISSA POST,MELISSA AssociatePublisher, Designer LAURA KLEPACKI, MassMarketBeautyEditor ETTA FROIO LXMCE,AssociatePublisher, Accessories ALIX MICHEL, CARMEN BORGONOVO, AccessoriesDirector OLIVIA MICHELE GELADE, AccountExecutive OLIVIA MICHELEGELADE, Lisa Kelly, Walker Carmen MaureenMorrison, SUSAN SMITH, Regional Advertising Director SUSAN SMITH,Regional Advertising Joanna Ramey (BureauChief)andKristiEllis RALPH ERARDY, SeniorVP, GroupPublisher NMRAWILSON,AssociateRetail Editor ANAMARIA SHARON EDELSON,SeniorEditor, Research (Fashion); Marketing/Media:JacobBernstein ARTHUR FRIEDMAN,SeniorEditor, Markets ANITA BETHEL, PhotoandImagingDirector EDWARD J.MENICHESCHI,President, WWD PAUL WHITE,VP, SeniorBusinessManager TO DIALDEPTS.DIRECTAREACODE212 DAVID AssociateSectionsEditor CAPLAN, KRISTEN CARR, AssociateSectionsEditor SAMANTHA CONTI,BureauChief, London Jeannie ChenandJuliaTopolski (Fashion); ARNOLD J.KARR, SeniorEditor, Financial ANTONIO AGUIAR, Associate Art Director ANTONIO AGUIAR,AssociateArt ALESSANDRA ILARI, BureauChief,ALESSANDRA ILARI, Milan STEVEN TORRES,PhotoResearch Editor JEAN GRIFFIN,VP, GroupDesignDirector AGNES CAMMOCK,SeniorMarketEditor CRISTINA TAVARES, Production Director MERLE GINSBERG, Entertainment Editor MERLE GINSBERG,Entertainment BOBBI QUEEN,AssociateFashion Editor ELIZABETH TIGHE,VP/GeneralManager, DEBBIE HARTSTEIN, AccountExecutive WILLIAM WACKERMANN, VP, Publisher EDWARD VP, NARDOZA, EditorinChief, IEDBROO VP,MIKE DEBARTOLO, GroupPublisher SARAH MURPHY, Publisher, BeautyBiz ENLMISTRY, Fashion NewsEditor MEENAL HANNAH LUSTIK, Production Manager DIANNE M. POGODA, ManagingEditor DIANNE M.POGODA, EDWARD J.MENICHESCHI,President, HAROLD ITZKOWITZ, GroupPublisher, JESSICA KERWIN,SeniorEditor,JESSICA Eye BRIDGET FOLEY, VP, ExecutiveEditor PETE BORN,VP, AssociatePublisher Street N.W., Suite954(202) 662-8827. PETER SADERA, DeputyCopyChief 7 W. 34thSt.,NewYork, N.Y. 10001 WENDY FRANK, CirculationDirector MILES SOCHA, BureauChief,MILES SOCHA, Paris MARY G.BERNER, President, CEO KIM SVITIC, Assistant Art Director KIM SVITIC,AssistantArt JOEL FERTEL, AssociatePublisher, JENNIFER BIKEL,PhotoAssistant DAVID MOIN,SeniorEditor, Retail FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS INC. SUSAN BAKER, BeautyManager JENNY B.FINE,AssociateEditor MELISSA COMITO,MELISSA PhotoEditor ®The retailers’dailynewspaper LORNA KOSKI, AssociateEditor STEVEN HILLMAN,CopyChief DALE REICH,Fashion Director ALISON ONEACRE,EyeEditor ALYCE ALSTON,VP, Publisher ANDREW FLYNN, Director Art EVA DILLON, VP, Publisher Innerwear/Legwear/Textiles JOE ZEE,Fashion Director Advance PublicationsInc. WWD MediaWorldwide JAMES FALLON, Editor LAYOUT/COPY DESK Classified Advertising Classified Advertising FAIRCHILD OFFICES CORRESPONDENTS Conference Division ART DEPARTMENT PHOTOGRAPHERS MARKET EDITORS MediaWorldwide Denim, Textiles (Copy Editors) MONDAY Editor, Fashion David Turner • JOHN B.FAIRCHILD Editor atLarge decrease itpreviouslyforecast. comp high-single-digit negative the versus midteens, to low- the in decrease to sales same-store period’s the anticipates also it said retailer specialty based Calif.- Brisbane, The Call. First to according cents, 11 of timates ing March31,belowconsensuses- end- quarter the for share a cents 5 to 3 between of earnings pected Oct. 7. reached $9.58, of low 52-week its above hovering trading, Nasdaq in $12.01 at close to percent, 16.3 mates. Wallesti- below Street’s well fall would results earnings quarter third- its said retailer the after Fridayhammered got Inc. Stores — YORK NEW Bebe Shares Slip After Forecast Revision Prince’s Trust. shows tobenefitPrinceCharles’charity, The that bestsuitsthem,foraseriesofrunway Yves SaintLaurent—withtheartistorband design houses—includingChanel,Versace and Royal AlbertHall.FashionRockswillmatch15 present amajormusicandfashioneventatthe chairman oftheBritishFashionCouncil,will an openinggalatheeveningofOct.14. the RoyalAcademy’s space.Armaniplanstohost retrospective, willbeadaptinghisdesignstosuit Wilson Neue NationalGalleryfromMayuntilJuly. Guggenheim inNewYork, willrunatBerlin’s exhibition, whichbeganin2000atthe until mid-February2004.Thetraveling which wassettotakeplacelastfall,willnowrun London’s Royal AcademyonOct.14.Theshow, designer planstounveilhisretrospectiveat ready totakeonLondon—onceagain.The AHOAL LONDON: FASHIONABLE things inapositiveway.” copied,” DeMontssaid.“We’re tryingtosee the thievesare,too.“We hope,atleast,itwill house issewingupduplicatesrightaway. Maybe wreaking havoconitssalescampaign,butthe François-Xavier deMonts with aniconicprint.Féraudmanagingdirector including smokings,leatherjacketsandadress grab fromonerack,butselectedkeylooks, two daysearlier. Curiously, thethievesdidn’t 25 piecesofthecollectionshownonrunway Paris headquartersThursdayandmadeoffwith — asinstolen.ThievesbrokeintoFéraud’s HOT KNOTT: Fashion Scoops cents, during the preceding year. Withoutyear. preceding the during cents, 81 or million, $10 from share, a $1.41 or million, $17.5 to widened losses year, the For parameters.” financial company’s the all in turnaround identified clearly a “indicate results Tefron’s2002 that statement a in said Yos Shiran executive Chief ago. year a million $49.2 from lion mil- $50.4 to percent 2.4 up inched 31 Dec. ended quarter the for Sales share. a cents 18 or million, $2.3 of earnings with riod pe- the in black the into jumped line tom Tefron’sbot- Israel, to operations turing manufac- Alba-WaldensianU.S. its shift to expenses one-time of effects the ing exclud- However, ago. year a cents, 11 or million, $1.4 from share, a cents 28 or lion, mil- $3.5 to widened quarter fourth the less intimateapparel,saiditsnetlossesin seam- of manufacturer Israel-based Brak, B Late Thursday,Late ex- it said Bebe or $2.34, off were shares Bebe TEFRON IN RED: IN TEFRON Meanwhile, adaylater, y the Numbers the y , whodesignedtheoriginalsetfor Louis Féraudhasahotlineforfall Shares of Bebe of Shares It seems Tefron Ltd., the Bnei- the TefronLtd., said thetheftis Nicholas Coleridge Giorgio Armani “ and higher manufacturing costs. than our plans due to higher markdowns than the prior year, the margin is lower facturing costs.” manu- higher and markdowns higher to due plans our than lower is margin the year, prior the than higher currently is margin gross “While statement. a in said officer, financial chief Bebe’s Kyees, John levels,” tory inven- lean and assortment our in balance of lack a by impacted “Sales have been negatively been have “Sales Bob While gross margin is currently higher , is designed with Arnold resonated withstarslike Avenue. Thethemeofthejewelryseemstohave which retailsfor$300to$2,500atSaksFifth piece lineofjewelrycalledPeaceandLove, treatment, hasalsostarteddesigninga100- MS raisesmoneyformultiplesclerosis represent thefinestfabrics,quality, maintaining better dressescollection.“Thecollectionwill “American ClassicBillBlass”bridgeand last Thursdayannouncingthelaunchofan different look.Hundredsofinvitesweremailed back underthesamename—butwitha BILL BLASSBACKINBRIDGE: she said. a messagethatspeakstoeveryoneintheworld,” designed forretailonlineandonQVC. Afghanistan. Aless-expensiveversionisbeing going tothedeminingofAngolaand signed notesfromthewearers,withproceeds pins willthenbeauctionedoneBayalongwith Pedro Almodovar nominees slatedtowearitare Picasso’s Dove ofPeace.AmongtheOscar gold anddiamondpeacepininspiredby jeweler HenryDunaytocreatean18-karatyellow Balbes philanthropic groupfoundedbydeveloper through jewelry. GlobalVision forPeace,anew and atleastsomeofthemwillbedoingit attention tothegrowingantiwarsentiment— the spotlightareusingtheirstarwattagetobring during Oscarweek,it’s nosurprisethatthosein PEACE OUT: million, or 9 cents, fourth-quarter earnings fourth-quarter cents, 9 or million, $1.6 of charges one-time Excluding cents. 7 or million, $1.3 of profits recorded firm the year last comparison, By share. diluted a cents 26 or million, $4.9 to percent 266.7 soared income net reported maker wear inner- label private Aviv,Israel-based Tel the 31, Dec. ended months three the For growth. sales robust on tripled than more earnings fourth-quarter Ltd.’s Industries lationships,” saidShiran. re- customer existing our diversifying and expanding time same the at while Europe, and U.S. the both in base customer our expanding on is 2003 for focus “Our 2001. in million $188.9 from million $190.3 to percent 0.7 advanced Sales share. a cents 72 or million, $8.9 reached come Alba-Waldensian,in- for items special Meanwhile, ET GLL SOARS: DELTA GALIL . Herlateststerlingsilvernecklace,co- and journalist With themediaglareonHollywood John Hardy Nancy Davis , Meryl Streep Cliff Rothman — John Kyees, Bebe Stores Inc. , retailsfor$100.“It’s Brooke Shields research note. “We have started “Wehave note. research a in wrote she plan, internal its to percent 13 down but percent, 7 up was inventory company’s February,of the end “At the sales. plague to continue issues inventory company’s the lieves be- she said Tennant analyst Adrienne Securities Morgan “buy,”Wedbushfrom “hold” , whoseRacetoErase Bill Blassis Downgrading the stock to stock the Downgrading and Daniel Day-Lewis , hasenlisted et Galil Delta Ann Roth and Xorin . The Tom ” , lion ayearago. mil- $558.8 from million $567.3 to percent 1.5 up ticked Revenues cents. 13 or lion, mil- $2.6 to accruing items special cluded in- charges nonrecurring year, Last $1.06. or million, $20 been have would come in- net cents, 18 or million, $3.3 of charges one-time Excluding 2001. fiscal in cents, 60 or million, $11.4 versus cents, 88 or million, $16.6 to percent 45.5 grew earnings said Delta year, fiscal the for Overall, Spencer. & Marks chain customer,U.K. largest Delta’s to sales in rise percent 30 a as well as Target, Wal-Martand to sales greater from benefitted Delta said Tiberg Arnon officer executive Chief ago. year a million $138.3 from million $159.4 to percent 15.2 increased period the for Revenues cents. 11 or million, $2 totaling items curring nonre- include quarter 2001 the for Results cents. 35 or million, $6.5 been have would had limitedsuccess. several timeswithsuchlinesasBlassport,which to that,Blassattemptedcrackthatmarket Urchin toproduceasportswearcollection.Prior International Group. $1,000. ItisbeingproducedbylicenseeBBS day andeveningretailingbetween$200 line willbowatretailthisfall,withdressesfor spokeswomanconfirmedthe invitation read.A the the integrityofbrandBillBlass,” Last year, BillBlassLtd.partneredwith “to pursueotheropportunities.” manufacturing, of president vice Bennoui, Jamel of departure December the following 5 March on sourcing of president vice production levels. full near or at producing than rather mode, capacity” “test a in overseas production running be only will company the then, by that believes now ter,but quar- fourth fiscal its by solved re- issues capacity facturing manu- its of portion substantial a have to planned Bebe said She anticipated. than longer taking is initiative sourcing East full assortment.” a create to required depths the in not but merchandise, cated sophisti- and suiting more see to Bebe named Paul Mashouf Paul named Bebe Far the said, she addition, In A peacependant by NancyDavis. peace pin. Dunay’s Henry SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION 2003 EYEWEAR TRENDS

Fashion is an exaggeration, a game, ironical, whereas eyewear, albeit tuned in to these latest trends, is hunting around for a specific identity that is anything but ephemeral.

An undisputed major player on the fashion scene, Made in Italy eyewear has established itself on the international catwalks and sets the rules for the coming seasons. Fashion is an exaggeration, a game, ironical, whereas eyewear, albeit tuned in to these latest trends, is hunting around for a specific identity that is anything but ephemeral. It is out to become timeless by focusing on classic colors and discreet proposals that are all about quality, slightly hidden signs, and special details. Yet it is also responding to a desire for luxury with exclusive collections, sometimes in limited editions. Eyewear blends in with your look, just like the fragile glass architecture signed by Jean Nouvel, or stands out on a face with obvious shapes. Fashion accessories, and especially eyewear, often do not have the same fate as clothing. It is the exact opposite, eyewear’s role is to highlight or draw attention to a line, or a seam. Fashion is contrasts, contradictions and eyewear has finally understood this game and is going along with it. In an intelligent way. SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION MAGIE

MAGIE 4 3 The magic of light, transparency, gold, metal, stones … Special effects in clothing and eyewear. Tiny miracles of daily luxury. Fashion is looking at the light charm of dance by reintroducing ballerina shoes, impalpable fabrics, the essential and sen- 6 5 sual nature of a body barely seen, with patterns of nerves, ethereal tailoring, draping. As well as alluding to the movies, the cir- cus, with exaggerated, theatrical details, with transformations. Where even luxury becomes a game with the showy reflections of pure gold, sometimes teamed with the shine of Swarovski crystal. This trend has a certain degree of magical opulence that is nonetheless entertaining, in the precarious yet fascinating balance of various details. Eyewear is sometimes produced in a limi- 8 ted edition, with mirrored lenses, Swarovski 7 crystals, brilliant, etc. materials that change with the light, with a look. Elusive colors, intermingled with thousands of reflexes, like mother-of-pearl.

1 Valentino by Safilo 2 Givenchy by De Rigo 3 Alessandro Dell'Acqua by Visibilia 4 Lancetti by Arlecchino 5 Versace by Luxottica

6 Nouvelle Vague by Italian Style 7 Blumarine by Visibilia 8 Lotto by Sover 9 Chloé by Marcolin 10 Vogue by Luxottica SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION THERE AND BACK

1 THERE AND BACK 2 Another journey but this time going back to the point of departure, with souvenirs, distant fragrances that mix and meld with traces of urbanity. The spirit remains urban in nature and belongs to a person who has a few years of city living behind him, who 4 has assimilated its habits and rituals, and in some ways has become an armchair trave- 3 ler and because of this, loves contradictions and contrasts of style.Travel just like a turn- of-the-century romantic myth, luxury, a dream, a transformation. It can be an ima- ginary and highly imaginative trip to the

5 moon with flash mirrored lenses, Paco Rabanne garments with metallic flashes, the visionary creations of the 1960’s. It can be opulent 1930’s and 1940’s China that finds a symbol-color, lacquered red or pur- ple, or very specific decorations and inci- sions. It can be India with the palaces of its 6 maharajahs, Mexico and its Incas, with the exaggeration of yellow gold and stones in a variety of hues. Or the Cote d’Azur of the 50’s and 60’s. A romanticized trip in the desert by affluent people at the turn of the century, a literary, cultural trip by writers 7 and artists in search of their own identity. Women, of course, are travellers who belong to other times in the sense that they nurture a romantic and adventurous ideal, but with a modern spirit, who love luxury, 8 comfort, and focus on the effects of a detail. Eyewear is exclusive, refined, painstakingly made, decorated. For men, eyewear is timeless, with a classic-sports style, perhaps with details that make it more protec- tive or practical.

1 Dolce & Gabbana by Marcolin 2 Chloé by Marcolin 3 Gucci by Safilo 4 Police by De Rigo 5 Baruffaldi 6 Yves Saint Laurent by Safilo

7 Verri by D'Arrigo 8 Ray-Ban by Luxottica 9 Giulia Lozza by G5 10 Roberto Cavalli by Marcolin SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION COUTURE-CULTURE

2 COUTURE CULTURE

Elegance, the glamour of couture, with cul- 3 tured quotes from the past. Classic colors are back, tortoise shell, subdued hues, 4 black and white. Lenses are very dark, sometimes completely flat. A rediscovered world but without nostalgia. In the same way, a newly-found concept of quality, style, tailoring that is reflected in specific, clear-cut, but substantially softer lines. A rediscovered sense of timelessness in accessories, but with an interpretation that is immediately contemporary. It’s the

5 1970’s but even before then, from the 1920’s and 1930’s on with small butterfly or large eyewear. The kind that Jackie O or Maria Callas wore in the most classic tortoi- 6 seshell version. The classics are the preferred choice for men too. The myths of Ari Onassis or Steve McQueen have returned with a narrow, wraparound shape, and revi- sited teardrop design. Eyewear to create a sense of mystery, to help build a persona- 7 lity. Eyewear that reconsiders leading players from the past, whether from the fashion industry, writers, or whatever. The flamboyant range of materials includes acetate, sheet metal or next-generation magnesium and titanium, that are used 8 thick.

9 10

1 Furla by De Rigo 2 Dior Homme by Safilo 3 Loewe by De Rigo 4 Ferré by Allison 5 Anna Sui by Allison

6 Roberto Cavalli by Marcolin 7 Look Occhiali 8 Gucci by Safilo 9 Romeo Gigli by Allison 10 Renato Balestra by I.O.V.E.S. SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION LIVE PAINTINGS

1 2

LIVE PAINTINGS 4

The colors, graphic motifs, multilayer acetate, colored lenses. Art has been transfor- 3 med into an energy of pure or diluted colors. Eyewear is a creative expression, a force of the imagination, it is no longer con- ditioned, it is bold with color, transgresses with red. New eyewear architectures have appeared. They are almost sculptures where the focus is on shapes, cuts, detai-

ling, sinuous lines, modulations, overlap- 6 ping surfaces. Art as a cultured approach to 5 color is expressed through shades, special gluing, milling, with very customized proposals. It is all about striking a new balance, the meeting of different stories. Artists and muses compare each other in a continuing evolution of inspired shapes and interpreta- tions. Andy Warhol’s pop art, images by David Hockney, clothes and accessories are

7 reworked with a creative touch that is sometimes ironical. This transformation can be obvious or very muted, just like a decisi- ve act, or a soft, water-painted stroke that becomes a shaded color palette. 8

9 10

1 Fovs 2 Polo Sport by Safilo 3 Arnette by Luxottica 4 Krizia by Metzler Italia 5 Lilliput by Trenti Industria Occhiali

6 Nouvelle Vague by Italian Style 7 Iceberg by Visibilia 8 Celine by De Rigo 9 Ray-Ban by Luxottica 10 Giulia Lozza by G5 18 Financial Weekly Stock Index Spiegel Taps Geralynn Madonna 52-Week Sales Amt High Low P/E (00’s) Last Change Broadline Retailers NEW YORK — The Spiegel Group cial management, product de- dependent auditor to review the 5.28 3.37 Bon-Ton Stores 5.8 492 3.70 -0.10 Inc. on Friday named Geralynn sign and development. firm’s financial records going 31.20 12.32 Dillard Dept. 7.9 49310 12.92 0.42 Madonna president and chief ex- The appointment is just the back to the start of 2000. ecutive officer of its Spiegel latest in a string of events at The SEC sued Spiegel in a 44.10 23.51 Federated 8.2 84394 26.43 1.14 Catalog and Newport News di- Spiegel, all taking place in a crisis Chicago federal district court for 3.88 1.17 Gottschalk's - 700 1.32 -0.04 rect-marketing units. atmosphere. As reported, Spiegel failure to disclose information it 25.70 14.07 J.C. Penney 16.1 95609 19.72 0.72

WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 17, 2003 WWD, MONDAY, Previously, Madonna held in the last month appointed received from its independent au- 37.75 17.81 May Dept. Stores 10.9 68957 19.16 0.31 the position of president and William Kosturos, managing di- ditor over Spiegel’s ability to con- 15.75 6.66 Saks 15.1 29409 7.36 -0.08 chief operating officer of rector at the turnaround firm tinue as a “going concern.” 59.90 18.30 Sears 3.7 226943 18.50 -1.40 Newport News. She succeeds Alvarez & Marsal, as chief re- Spiegel, the SEC said, chose to 46.00 24.90 Target 15.5 242700 27.28 0.53 Melissa Payner, former presi- structuring officer and interim “conceal” the “going concern” issue 4.62 1.48 Value City - 1758 1.66 0.16 dent and ceo of Spiegel Catalog, ceo. In the latter post, he succeed- by filing notices of late filings for its 63.94 43.72 Wal-Mart 27.4 412674 49.36 1.24 and George Ittner, former chair- ed Martin Zaepfel at the firm, annual and quarterly reports on man and ceo of Newport News. which is controlled by German the grounds that various lending Softline Retailers The embattled Downers catalog giant Otto Versand GmbH. agreements were not in place. 33.19 17.05 Ann Taylor 10.0 79722 18.35 -1.15 Grove Ill.-based direct marketer Just last week, failure to While the consent agreement 1.95 0.55 Bluefly - 1255 0.94 0.17 and retailer said Payner and meet certain financial criteria partially resolved some of the 23.50 15.40 Burlington Coat 10.1 2380 16.25 -0.10 Ittner resigned from the compa- triggered an early amortization SEC’s allegations, it also mandat- 9.14 2.70 Charming Shoppes 27.6 55785 3.05 0.29 ny to pursue other interests, but event, which will force Spiegel ed that Spiegel, which alleges it Ittner has agreed to provide con- to divert funds to investors, is “cooperating fully” with the in- 23.73 13.02 Chico's FAS 22.5 47068 18.16 0.62 sulting services to the company. rather than use them to fund op- vestigation, agree to the appoint- 17.50 11.06 Dress Barn 12.8 1858 13.06 0.33 Madonna has been with erations. On March 7, Spiegel ment of an examiner to review 17.10 8.20 Foot Locker 8.9 69888 9.75 -0.41 Spiegel for more than 21 years. entered into a consent decree Spiegel’s financial records and 17.14 8.35 Gap 25.8 301693 14.25 0.52 In her most recent position at with the Securities and provide a report within 120 days 78.83 44.00 Kohl's 28.6 236870 55.75 4.49 Newport News, she oversaw all Exchange Commission that, on Spiegel’s financial condition 22.34 10.88 Limited Brands 12.3 123831 12.45 0.59 company-wide operations, in- among other conditions, re- and identify any material ac- 39.80 23.75 Neiman Marcus Group 10.1 4875 27.35 0.44 cluding merchandising, finan- quires the appointment of an in- counting irregularities. 26.87 15.06 Nordstrom 25.2 38195 17.18 0.23 20.11 10.81 Pacific Sunwear 18.8 65370 19.73 0.51 47.77 31.85 Ross Stores 14.6 64692 36.12 1.99 8.09 5.40 Syms - 325 7.75 0.35 Icahn Slams Corporate Excess 39.64 20.59 Talbots 12.1 17172 25.20 1.08 22.45 15.30 TJX 15.8 121605 16.99 0.36 Continued from page 3 Icahn also had some choice court approval for a $20 million Some of the problems with words about the bankruptcy fee, or about $8,500 an hour, even Vendors corporate America also involve process, and the “pernicious in- though they did very little work. 57.91 41.55 Alberto Culver 19.5 16957 48.63 0.75 the use of the poison pill, an anti- timacy” that occurs between in- The billionaire investor also 57.10 43.49 Avon 23.5 69382 53.05 1.32 takeover mechanism that allows vestment bankers and the said that the bankruptcy process 23.40 13.65 Cherokee 9.7 241 15.25 0.16 shareholders to buy more shares debtors-in-possession. needs to be restructured because 37.71 17.19 Coach 29.4 66159 36.98 0.43 under certain circumstances to “The group [of people] I find much of the money that should 47.80 27.46 Columbia Sportswear 13.4 15435 34.85 -0.01 prevent a hostile entity from be- most reprehensible in bankrupt- belong to creditors instead goes coming the majority shareholder. cy are the investment bankers out of the estate to pay profes- 38.80 25.20 Estee Lauder 36.1 37979 28.42 0.47 It is a maneuver often criticized for the huge fees that they sional fees and retention bonuses. 24.61 14.99 Fossil 13.8 12319 17.68 0.45 for allowing management to keep charge,” he said. “Why do we have to pay [man- 8.49 4.49 G-III 27.2 66 4.84 0.12 a tighter grip over their jobs. Icahn, who currently holds a agement] a retention bonus? 99.45 82.53 Gucci 34.0 11181 94.99 0.50 “The poison pill is supposed controlling stake in the Sands These are the people that 8.25 3.30 Guess - 534 3.55 0.19 to give shareholders rights, but Casino and Hotel after helping screwed up the company and I 41.68 25.61 Jones Apparel 11.4 39590 28.33 0.56 the only thing they give a share- the firm emerge from bankruptcy don’t see a line to hire them. 32.50 19.70 Kellwood 71.5 18896 27.92 -1.08 holder is the right not to make in 2000, explained that while Why pay a retention bonus when 30.50 16.00 Kenneth Cole 17.0 5126 22.70 0.32 money. A shareholder can’t do bankers should get paid for their you don’t want to retain them?” 33.25 23.55 Liz Claiborne 13.3 24408 29.27 0.55 anything and can’t buy more work, those fees should also be in According to Icahn, manage- 13.25 4.40 Mossimo 5.1 816 4.60 -0.19 than 10 percent of the stock. We proportion to the work that is ment has a bit too much job se- 25.20 14.60 Movado 11.2 525 18.85 0.95 do not have accountability in done. He described one instance curity in situations like these: 16.22 8.06 Nautica 12.9 2939 9.36 -0.33 corporate America today. With a where he successfully fought a “They let thousands go [on the 30.25 19.50 Oxford 16.6 425 23.95 0.60 poison pill, no one can buy a request by an investment banking unemployment lines but] no one 16.46 10.80 Phillips-Van Heusen 11.3 7508 11.99 -0.26 piece of the company,” he said. firm that was seeking bankruptcy lets them go.” 30.82 16.49 Polo Ralph Lauren 13.1 13761 20.63 0.16 30.17 17.26 Quicksilver 17.0 20798 29.98 2.21 Biggest Percentage Changes WWDStock Market Index for Week Ending March 14 6.50 1.85 Revlon - 1687 2.60 0.10 For Week Ending March 14 19.55 13.14 Russell Corp. 11.5 4158 16.97 0.55 Gainers Close Change Composite: 95.40 Broadline Stores: 95.51 Softline Stores: 92.92 6.50 3.33 Tarrant Apparel - 425 3.62 0.00 Bluefly 0.94 22.24 16.65 5.61 Tommy Hilfiger 7.5 32001 5.73 -0.46 Value City 1.66 10.67 29.55 4.14 Tropical Sportswear - 1452 5.00 -0.42 Charming Shoppes 3.05 10.51 45.64 31.50 VF Corp. 10.9 18139 35.11 0.61 Kohl's 55.75 8.76 14.10 9.83 Warnaco - 3286 10.75 0.14 Quicksilver 29.98 7.96 2.42 2.17 4.22 Losers Close Change Vendors: 98.01 Textiles: 95.61 Textiles Galey & Lord 0.04 -12.50 4.45 1.21 Cone Mills 7.3 1737 1.96 -0.03 Tropical Sportswear 5.00 -7.75 Index base of 100 is keyed to closing prices 6.15 1.55 Delta Woodside 121.7 84 3.79 -0.05 Tommy Hilfiger 5.73 -7.43 0.27 0.03 Galey & Lord - 668 0.04 0.00 Sears 18.50 -7.04 of Dec. 31, 2002. 1.45 1.04 8.00 2.50 Guilford Mills - 40 4.10 0.00 Ann Taylor 18.35 -5.90 11.66 4.50 Unifi - 3794 4.97 0.09 19 WWD, MONDAY,WWD, 2003 17, MARCH Markets Face Rocky Road Ahead

Continued from page 2 World War I broke out in 1914] growth reflects a rebound in the he expects to see corporate According to Hastings, the lin- or in the process of a top [as in U.S. savings rate, which climbed earnings improve steadily. Jones gering downturn since the March 1939 or later in the Vietnam to 4.3 percent in the fourth quar- doesn’t foresee a major drop in 2000 dot-com bubble burst is an War], the outbreak [or, in the ter of 2002, from a record low of the market should a war break indication of a secular bear mar- case of Vietnam, the intensifica- just 0.8 percent of income in the out, noting that there is proba- ket. Secular bears, which occur tion] of war can precipitate or same 2001 quarter. bly already a war discount built once every 100 years, correct the continue the market’s declining “With cash from the past into the prices. excesses left over from major trend.” She concluded that be- year’s reduction in their tax The outlook for apparel and bull markets. Hastings is con- retail sales, however, is less cerned about this one. promising, whatever happens on “A secular bear market can The economy is headed down. We are the diplomatic or military fronts. last through a decade,” he said. “ Noelle Grainger, apparel analyst “The last one we had was be- marching toward a bad intersection. The at J.P. Morgan, wrote in a re- tween 1929 and 1948. We are search note: “It seems unlikely talking about big cycles. The last problems, however, have little to do with that apparel and footwear com- secular bull market lasted from panies will have much success 1982 to 2000. The longer the bull Iraq. All of the problems were in place prior accelerating core U.S. sales run, the bigger the overhang growth unless consumption picks and the greater the excess. We to [the] Sept. 11 [terrorist attacks]. up in 2003. Acquisitions should have in place factors suggesting — Richard Hastings, Cyber Business” Credit help some companies outpace a long downturn.” our forecast for 2 percent to 4 Hastings is keeping tabs on cause the market is in the early burden, real-income growth and percent consumption gains.” five key areas to help determine stage of a structural downturn, home mortgage refinancing, Brian Tunick, specialty retail what could happen next: rising the technical observation sug- consumers are in a position to analyst at J.P. Morgan, observed Analysts see a grim 2003 ahead for government deficits; higher gests that an outbreak of war continue spending,” Steidtmann in the same report: “We note Wall Street. prices for oil and other commodi- carries the risk that the equity said. that apparel and footwear think a host of other problems ties; an increase in the debt over- markets could fall to new lows. For many companies, he noted, spending trailed off significant- will weigh on consumer confi- hang; growing unemployment Henry G. Van der Eb, portfolio success will depend on their abili- ly heading into the beginning of dence, including the weak econ- levels, and the declining dollar. manager for The Gabelli Mathers ty to increase market share. the Gulf War in 1991, and re- omy and job market, the worry Louise Yamada, Salomon Fund, wrote in his yearend re- Nick Jones, portfolio manag- mained quite volatile through about North Korea’s nuclear Smith Barney’s technical strate- port to shareholders that when er at investment advisory firm the next year….Even if a poten- threat and the risk of additional gist, has been focusing on the bubbles burst, prices historically Ashland Management, said that tial conflict ends quickly, we terrorist attacks.” highs and lows of the different decline below the point of the stock market indices. initial advance, which he pegged The Dow Jones Industrial in December 1994. “This implies Average plummeted in October the Dow at 3,500, the S&P 500 at 2002 to 7,286, but bounced back 425 and the Nasdaq Composite at and was trading over the 8,800 700,” he concluded. mark as recently as January. In Perennial bear David W. TIME IS MONEY. the first week of March alone, Tice, portfolio manager for the however, the Dow has been Prudent Bear Funds, in his steadily falling from 7,837 to the quarterly letter to shareholders 7,650 range. The Dow is still on observed that the stock market WE GIVE YOU MORE OF BOTH. a see-saw. Last Monday, the Dow is not close to a new bull cycle celebrated the three-year an- because stocks are still overval- niversary of the bursting of the ued and there is no indication technology bubble by plunging of investor capitulation. In addi- Much more nimble, independent and streamlined than 171.85 points to close at 7,568.18. tion, we are still in the early The Dow on Thursday surged stages of a liquidation of mutual banks, we’re the financial backbone of sophisticated, 269.68 points to close at 7,821.75 fund holdings. successful businesses all over the globe. Our clients as investors perceived a long or “History tells us that once immediate war in Iraq as being these outflows start in earnest, benefit from customized financial solutions and the less likely, even though reports they can last for a long time. The breadth of services that we provide. We are known for on retail sales were worse than cumulative outflows so far have expected, and unemployment been very brief, and are only a our expertise in: figures were still rising. very small fraction of the prior Both the Nasdaq Composite inflows,” he wrote. Factoring: and the Standard & Poor’s 500 Even worse, continued boom- have been holding their own in ing consumer borrowing and • Full-Service Factoring and Accounts Receivable the past six weeks at the 1,300 spending is barely keeping the Management Services and the 800-plus ranges, respec- “maladjusted economy afloat. • Web-Based “Factronics” System for fast credit approvals tively. On Friday, the Dow ad- Today, the consumer is water- vanced another 37.96 points, or logged and exhausted. The con- • Advance, Collection & Maturity Factoring 0.5 percent, to finish the day at sumption-based economy looks 7,859.71. weathered and frail,” the fund • Trade Finance Services (Letter of Credit) Yamada’s recently issued war manager concluded. study observed that the “contin- A Jan. 29 market indicator re- Asset-Based Lending: ued deterioration in the techni- port from Salomon Smith • Loan/Revolving Credit Lines secured by receivables, cal underpinnings of the equity Barney referred to a slightly market” carries a high probabili- less scientific method for pre- inventory, or other acceptable collateral ty that the October lows — Dow at dicting market direction. It said • Debtor-In-Possession Financing 7,286, Nasdaq at 1,114 and S&P at that when a team originally in 776 — may be tested. She wrote the National Football League • Bridge Real Estate Loans that a failure of the indices to wins the Super Bowl, the Dow hold their lows would suggest finishes up for the year. The op- Find out how the Rosenthal & Rosenthal equation will new lower levels: the Dow at posite occurs when a team origi- enable your company not just to thrive, but to conquer. 6,500 and the S&P at 700. How nally in the American Football low the Nasdaq might fall would League wins. Since 1967, the depend on bellwether compo- sports litmus test has been cor- nents, such as Microsoft. She did- rect 30 out of 36 times. The STRATEGIES. SOLUTIONS. SERVICE. n’t rule out the Nasdaq dropping Tampa Bay Buccaneers’ victory to 1,000 or even the 800 range. this year suggests an “up” finish. More importantly, she wrote, Carl Steidtmann, chief global Contact: Michael Stanley 212-356-1497 Executive Vice President, Factoring are the established trends in the economist at Deloitte Research, Sheldon Kaye 212-356-1481 Executive Vice President, Asset-Based Lending equity market, which determine observed that there’s still a lot the effect of the outbreak of a of money on the sidelines, with possible war on the direction of consumers still willing to open the market. The onset of con- their purse strings at retail. flicts in Korea, Vietnam and According to the February’s Kuwait occurred during a bull Deloitte Research Leading Rosenthal & Rosenthal, Inc. market, and at worst created a Index of Consumer Spending, 1370 Broadway, New York, NY 10018 • www.rosenthalinc.com temporary setback. growth in consumer expendi- According to Yamada: “If the tures will slow to a 6.2 percent dominant trend of the market annual rate in the months ahead. was down [as in the case when The anticipated slowdown in 20 Boscov’s Big Boxes: F

The $30 million Wyomissing store. Strawbridge & Clothier did $12 million on the site. WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 17, 2003 WWD, MONDAY,

Continued from page one tailers will only intensify, threatening Boscov’s. all this stuff you don’t need?” exclaimed Albert Regional chains have been gobbled up by bigger Boscov, the 73-year-old co-owner, chairman and chief chains or disappeared on their own, and some nation- executive of Boscov’s Inc., parent of the privately held al chains such as Federated Department Stores, the Boscov’s chain. parent of Macy’s, have been testing smaller stores in He’s the son of Solomon Boscov, who founded the smaller markets, which is Boscov’s country. company in 1911 by selling goods off a horse-drawn “There isn’t a fit there,” Lakin contended of major wagon. Like his father, Albert has a passionate selling department store chains going into smaller markets. style. “We still have garden supplies, sporting goods, “They don’t do well in populations under one million. luggage, furniture and we make our own fudge,” he We do very well in populations of 250,000 to half a mil- said. “But we still sell these chocolate kisses, the lion,” typically selling to households with an average same as Wal-Mart. Do we make money on it? income of $70,000, where both the husband and wife Absolutely not, but we have it so the customer doesn’t work, and there are one or two children. It also has a have to go there. slightly older average customer profile, around 37, a “We’ve stayed a department store. Other depart- year or two higher than other department stores. ment stores got out of anything that was difficult to make Boscov’s all-out approach seems to be working. money.” Being privately held, it does not disclose profits, but Boscov’s is an anomaly — a family-owned, regional it’s said to have an operating profit rate of around 6 to department store chain that is thriving at a time when 7 percent of sales. That’s about twice that of a prime only a few of its ilk are still standing. Moreover, with competitor, the York, Pa.-based Bon Ton, which has the exception of Sears, it is one of the few old-fash- hovered around 3 percent. ioned, full-line department stores, selling everything Lakin did say that last year, Boscov’s earnings be- from apparel to white goods, CDs to sporting goods. fore interest and taxes rose 25 percent, although com- Boscov’s has sales of $1.1 billion from 38 stores in parisons would be easy considering how difficult 2001 Pennsylvania, Delaware, New Jersey, New York and was for all retailers. The company also had a 2 per- Maryland, stretching from Atlantic City, N.J., west to cent comparable-store gain last year, whereas depart- Pittsburgh and Albany, N.Y., and south to Salisbury, ment stores were generally flat or down. Md. It also has a few other holdings in real estate, A better comparison is 2000. “It was the best year restaurants and catering. we’ve ever had,” highlighted by a 4 percent comp- Like other regional chains, Boscov’s, based in store gain, Lakin said. Anything over 3 percent “really Reading, Pa., is under assault from the mass mer- helps cover the overhead,” he added. chants Wal-Mart and Target to rival department stores While Bon Ton units average 60,000 square feet Kohl’s, J.C. Penney Co., Sears, Roebuck & Co. and and sell primarily apparel, Boscov’s units average Macy’s. Pennsylvania is also the kingdom of outlets. 185,000 square feet, with apparel, accessories and The fierce competition makes it imperative to differ- shoes representing 55 percent of the volume. Hard entiate, although regionals such as Belk’s, Dillard’s, lines represent 45 percent of the volume. Private Elder-Beerman and Gottschalks, are just hanging on. label represents 18 percent of the business, with the “We’re the biggest thing going in town, and we have key in-house brands, being Hastings & Smith for the biggest selection of merchandise, other than knits, Preswick & Moore for related separates and food,” said Kenneth S. Lakin, Boscov’s chairman and updated separates, and Architect for opening price chief executive, as well as being Albert’s nephew and points, according to Thomas S. Crystal, senior vice the son of Edwin Lakin, Boscov’s other co-owner. “You president and general merchandise manager of have to have personality and a selection that’s special Kenneth S. Lakin and Albert Boscov break out Boscov’s ready-to-wear at Boscov’s. The private-label goods to the market” homemade fudge. The chain sells 100,000 pounds annually. are supplied by Associated Merchandising Corp., a The competition from Kohl’s, Macy’s and other re- unit of Target Corp. 21 Full-Lined and Feisty MONDAY,WWD, 2003 17, MARCH

Key apparel brands include Liz aggressive, but we try to give value every Claiborne, Emma James, Caribbean Joe, day. But if something comes in over- Norton McNaughton, Tommy Hilfiger, priced, we will put it on sale.” Rafaella, Nautica and Polo. Casual is the Burton C. Krieger, Boscov’s president most developed women’s category, though and chief merchandising officer, said that the biggest growth has been in updated at the Wyomissing store, a former moderate, while Boscov’s “has opportuni- Strawbridge unit that did $12 million in ties in career,” Crystal said. The average annual sales, “we’ll do $30 million in this sales slip is typically $50 for two items, building,” which was converted to with the merchandise presentations pri- Boscov’s last fall. “We think we have an marily moderate to upper moderate. alternative. We are the branded value al- About 80 percent of the merchandise se- ternative and we get closer to the cus- lection is the same from door to door; tomer. Fifty percent of the store manag- with the remaining 20 percent tailored to er’s job is to be involved in the communi- individual markets. ty, and our secret weapon is our relation- In the home category, particularly soft ships with the market.” goods, cookware, small appliances and For the future, Boscov’s plans steady, domestics, Boscov’s really tries to out- realistic growth consistent with its past merchandise competitors with deeper in- gradual expansion, which has involved ventories. For example, many depart- cherry-picking other regionals, including ment stores go deep in towels and bed- the defunct Stern’s and Hess’ and some Here and below: Boscov’s assortment has a broad reach, ding, but Boscov’s goes deeper by pre- former Strawbridge units. “We haven’t from prom dresses and drapes to sporting goods. senting vignettes, with four-way towel fix- added tremendous debt, so when the tures displaying matching shower cur- economy slows down we can still manage Thomas tains and bath accessories. “Our cus- the debt load,.” Lakin said. He declined S. Crystal tomers pay extra money for this, but it’s to specify the debt. extra business for us, regular priced and With two store openings set for this very profitable,” said John Young, vice year, in the fast-growing northern president and divisional merchandise Maryland towns of Westminster, on April manager for domestics. 6, and Frederick, in late October, Boscov’s He also said that Boscov’s considers is shooting for $1.3 billion in 2003 sales. itself a destination for curtains and In five years, the company envisions 50 drapes, selling about $25 million in the stores situated in 10 states. “We are look- category. Penney’s sells more curtains ing at Virginia, Ohio, and southern New and drapes than any other department England,” Lakin said. “We haven’t gob- store but, according to Young, “We do bled up more than we can chew. We aver- more volume per store than Penney’s.” age two store openings a year, although Two to three days a week, buying sometimes we’ve opened three or four. teams are in the markets, where Boscov’s Our distribution center in Reading can has generally sustained good relations handle another 35 stores.” with suppliers, not the least of which As a private company, “you don’t have stems from a chargeback policy that’s less to look at every quarter. Being private al- rigid than national department store op- lows us to look at the longer term,” Lakin erations. “Boscov’s is a different animal,” explained, although he acknowledged said David N. Kaliski, president of Royale that lenders still want to see progress Linens Inc. “It’s a regional that appears each season. to be doing well. Over the years, they And while regional retailers and inde- were unique in the way they handled ven- pendently owned stores have been disap- dor resources. They used to give prizes to pearing, Lakin says there’s a clear case vendors, trips to Antigua. They don’t do it for Boscov’s staying independent. as much anymore, but they are relatively “Everybody has their price, but we are easy to deal with. They’ve made us feel not actively soliciting. It wouldn’t help like family.” the stock price of any big department “There’s a sense of originality in the store to add a small regional. The rate of merchandise, like the original R.H. Macy return might not be what shareholders & Co.,” observed Frank Guzzo, a sales rep are used to, so it may bring down the from Thermos. stock price. All independent operators On the markdown front, Boscov’s can are somewhat under the radar screen. be aggressive, but not like Macy’s. When We are looking to grow [our] formula, Kohl’s entered Boscov’s trading area five which has been successful as a private years ago, Boscov’s took two busloads of company. staff to a Kohl’s in Erie, Pa., and spent “We do operate in a lot of depressed hours in the store. “We were very im- towns, like Johnstown, and Pottsville, Pa., pressed by their domestics,” Lakin said. but we’ve kept all these departments — “So we repriced our home store to a pro- major appliances, sporting goods, toys — motional stance,” as opposed to the usual and that creates traffic. We have 100 peo- “best value” everyday low price stance. ple on the floor at any one time. “As a regional, we were able to react.” Penney’s, Sears, probably have half as Still, as Boscov explained, it’s not as many people,” he said. “The name of the markdown manic as other stores.“We are game is how to differentiate.”

than a one-day sale or a two-day sale,” said Kenneth S. chief merchandising manager, Burton C. Krieger. Lakin, Boscov’s chairman and ceo. The doors opened at 9 a.m., and by 9:30, it was The $550,000 VIP Day The biggest draw of the year is V.I.P. Day. It’s a one- crowded through most of the store. Shoppers on the day event held at only two stores each year, with dif- third floor were already sampling hamburgers cooked WYOMISSING, Pa. — When Albert Boscov joined ferent ones selected annually. For those units, it’s the on the George Foreman grill. “It’s amazing the re- Boscov’s in 1954, he had an instant impact on raising biggest volume day of the year, even bigger than Black sponse we get from this event. It’s not so much the bar- its profile, first by enlarging newspaper ads, and later Friday or the Saturday before Christmas. On March 8, gains. It’s because it’s a fun day,” said Albert Boscov. by instigating some unusual promotions and employee it was held here at the store in the Berkshire Mall, “There’s food being made all over the place. There are events, like extending the family picnic into a picnic one of three Boscov’s units in the Reading, Pa., area. no clean aprons. It’s recreation.” for all the employees on a day when all the stores were The store had 80 major suppliers participating, with a Customers were also biting into samples of Boscov’s shut. The picnic is still held, but the stores stay open, total of 250 vendor reps. There were sales directors homemade fudge and chocolate-covered strawberries, staffed by a handful of employees who remain behind. and regional managers demonstrating gadgets, show- made on a strange electronic gadget. Before it was acti- Boscov’s takes other unusual tacks. The day after ing off new products and cooking food; makeup artists vated, a witness thought it was a humidifier, and one Easter, when business would normally slow down, the giving beauty tips, and merchandise managers offer- executive identified it as a candle maker. “People are store launches a four-week promotion with the tagline, ing fashion tips — and the discounts were plentiful. looking at a lot of innovations in cooking and appli- “Did you Boscov’s today?” On each day of the event, At several checkout counters, there were roulette ances,” said Boscov. “Women’s fashion always has there’s a different kind of price break. One day, for ex- wheels for customers to spin for extra markdowns, something new every year, but the biggest excitement ample, there might be 20 percent off any apparel item. usually another 5 to 20 percent off. One was manned is what’s happening in housewares, gifts and small ap- Other days might discount different categories. by Miss Teen Pennsylvania. pliances. That’s where the greatest interest is.” “It’s a different way of saying we’re on sale, other “We’ll hit $550,000,” said Boscov’s president and — David Moin PHOTOS BYPHOTOS BLATT WILLIAM 22 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 17, 2003 r i.ep nJ.csa he.Must shoes. etc casual Sketchers, Jr. Madden, Relo toPacificNW.Call973-564-9236Agc Candies, in 2-3 w/ exp. Open hang $ min. Builder yrs shoes/Shoe Designer territories. 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Exc.Salary&Benefitspackage. 2 be Minimum Individual girls. should and infant/toddler level to design Illustrator/Photoshop, taste of great knowledge seeks with company individual Childrenswear Major typ- great proficient, ing skillsanddetailorientedisamust. excel literate, Comput- er Must industry. this imports. with familiar fabric be for to individual related duties seeks company Fabric Fax resumeandsalaryrequirementsto: A call appointment For Mr. Youngat212-564-7430x208. req. exp. all in- Garment dustry deductions. handle application customer cash highly and collections, to starter, of aspects individual self a motivated seeks Importer A W rvnwvnadki os Mac tops. knit Jr. and 7-16 Illustrator required.112West34thSt. woven exp. Current Driven $85K. Designer experience (Fax)212-725-7116 (Tel)212-481-1941 travel hand E-mail resume:[email protected] detailed Asian & direction, Illus., sketching, MAC give of line, knowl. a develop/design nltclsil,poiin nExcel, in communication proficient skills, strong analytical & possess Must A Bookkeeper/Office Asst ASSOCIATE DESIGNER Judy *JustMgmt.*800-544-5878 Agcy. Call 973-564-9236JaralFashionAgc lsodr,csoe v compliance & svc customer orders, ales Bookkeeper/Controller Over 1yr.CADexp.ColourMatteror Fax resumestoWendy:212719-3387 CUSTOMER SERVICE sc einrBy -8 Organized, 4-18. Boys Designer ssoc. E-mail Word, Excel, in skills dvanced Current $40-45K Payable ccounts mnsrtv sitn-ealdori- Assistant-detailed dministrative a o ek optrltrt team literate computer seeks Co. ear r,J.Dv mdte) blt to ability (mid-tier), Div. Jr. ard, Accounts Receivable r ilas nld eoclaino reconciliation include also will ork r.Mn er x.Nbsd 20 NJbased, exp. years 3 Min. ord. CAD DESIGNER Please faxresumeto212-239-2766 Photoshop, etc.FaxJulieKimat: skills.Faxresumeto: Junior BrandedHandbags Fax resumeto212-971-2277 Administrator Must do8-20sportswear. Designer Boysto$65K DESIGNER/$70-100K DESIGNER Jud No CallsonFrida (212) 947-7654 y 516-505-1370 @JustMgt.com EOE 212-921-3338 y .

oriented y y . g f . . . (Fax)212-725-7116 (Tel)212-481-1941 with licensing. [email protected] product graphics us- Girl’s strong design doing experience Illus, to Adobe ability ing Required: Accesso- trendy Co. leading, ry this at designer backpack exp for opportunity Great inr i.o - er x.req’d exp. years 1-2 de- of seeks Min. line signer. BRANDED Junior Hip a o ek x’ nii o BRANDED for St individ exp’d fashion line.Wovensandknits. 33rd seeks co. Maj W 10 HI$ DSGNR -BOYS4/20SPTS sptswr. boys Call 973-564-9236JaralFashionAgc Current in WearFirst, $45-50K exp w/ ASSOC DESIGNER Hang tops. yg PLUGG, PointZero,etc.10W34thSt in knit exp Current mens $60K to yg DESIGNER in exp Current mens orboysdenimtwillbottoms. $60K to DESIGNER en- work and v Excellent overseas benefits. markets Good for Size mfg. pkgs Extra technical & preparing for Missy specing seeks sketching, proficient Jr., flat be Co. technical Must in Import Designer. Sweater established Long $Open$ fax Designer Please person. right resume toShaunat212-764-6026. the responsi- and for travel bility growth, Oppor- for tunity needed. ma- and experience highly Casting fashion. nipulation for with eye and keen designer a jewelry motivated trend company organized highly growing fast seeks and paced Fast DESIGNER hot the a in skills of Computer plus. FaxResumeto:718-743-5466 fabrications market. knowledge children’s and be years & categories 3-5 have Must to experience Must inception production. from divisions. design final in of work aspects 4-18 and all seeks oriented detail boys organized, 4-16 co. girls our & for designer childrenswear experienced Leading handbags. in experience Please Faxresumeto: prior Must details. have to excellent attention with and energetic, sketching, & creative design. be & research Responsible market W & SLG. trend & for totes handbags, seeks for brand fashion Leading communication correction, w sample specs, sketching, development, Design be Must strong req’d. 4 timesperyear. & skls exp. w sketching specific hand industry 2 Min yrs designer. importer handbag leather handbag seeks moderate Leading including factories. to development CAD literate.Goodbenefits. communication/travel Product Graphic $60K oo aeildvlpet and development, material preparation ofpresentationboards. & color DESIGNER Trend JewelryDesigne Fax resumeto:212-279-3224att:Sharo Fax resumeto212-563-3396Attn:Jud DESIGNER -Handbags DESIGNER -SWEATER A.D. FORMANASSOC. Call 973-564-9236JaralFashionAgc ironment. Faxresume: oesa fie,mre research, market offices, /overseas o average an overseas travel to illing infant/toddler. Careeroppt’y.MAC r lsl ihbadn em Must team. branding with closely ork MIRIAM HASKELL 450 7thAve.(AGCY)268-6123 Designer to$60KCurrentexp.in Designer/Handbag Responsibilities Include: [email protected] [email protected] proficient. 110W34thst. DESIGNER/GRAPHICS 212-398-2086 Att:Dora Immed Need --- ROSETTI Great Firms Backpacks/to 70k+ Designer SLEEP JRS - HANDBA 212-564-2882 designer a y G y y r n eiey nweg fA 0 required. 400 AS of LC experienceamust. Knowledge delivery. f . V and ensure to shipments documents and processing overseas scheduling monitoring include individua Responsibilities seeks company w apparel Major salary & resume Fax requirements to: Please must. Illustrator exp. a years industry. 8/9 2 wear least children’s at in have - Must Inf. ranges; 12. and size Size All embroideries B/G. print, for create appliques Mus to needed. able artist be licensed & Generic exp. full-time permanent in have large Call 973-564-9236JaralFashionAgc street exp. Must 34th Current co. 7-16. infant/toddler, $55-75K. girls Artist Graphic ulfe addts laefxor fax please e-mail resumewithsalaryrequirement candidates, Philadelphia). of in Qualified suburbs located and Western is plan the (Hartstrings more. 401k much insurance, dental/life w and on goals; production and with w opportunities work margin plans; business merchandis- seasonal ing retail developing and and ana- wholesale for responsible to lyzing product Also, direction staff. providing planning design and o lines, assortment analysis product meet- sku all and calendar, development profitability ings, seasonal product leading including Re- market. ment, experience, Develop- Product children’s include years candi- sponsibilities in ideal 10+ The have preferably for lines. will develop product date plan to 5 merchandising staff our execute Design with and Merchandiser work talented a to for looking sportswear children’s is high-end of turer manufac- wholesale a LLC, Hartstrings, seeks exp. company ladies/missys with Must havemassmerchantsexp. apparel individual Major and 3-5 salary Minimum Good benefits package. trends. experience. seeks years forecast company identify to and able wear be Must Merchandiser. infant Major require- salary @ and resume interpersonal ments to212-447-9255. on Fax based strong exp. Salary skills. seeking with administrative jeweler er manag- self-motivated fine entrepreneurial, International he prtn fie n sa out- candidate the an for is opportunity and standing the Officer to Operating directly Chief report will position This tion onfinalcostingprocess. alo mi eueto: resume benefits email & or fax, may salary parties mail Interested great package. partnering detail-oriented Com- A succeed. petitive the to plus. motivated retail individual for a background. opportunity link, of related system/retail of and at years Knowledge with 3 coupled least communication skills organizational possess Brand will our candidate exceptional and right purchasing The act to Mgrs. and link goods a brand, as of by needs, analysis/cost projections margin distribution flow, & inventory an retail/wholesale analysis fill include: sales to Duties Product busy area. Planner its in Inventory opening immediate looking an is frames for optical of distributor etslr n ou akg,health package, bonus and excel- salary including lent package, compensation benefits and comprehensive a offers VIVA InternationalGroup MADISON AVENUE MERCHANDISER/SALES (610)989-4160,attn:MM0302 EOE V nentoa ru,amajor a Group, International IVA r ihmreig ein produc- design/ marketing/ with ork t iiu er experience. years 3 minimum ith omesorciei.Hartstrings criteria. our meets ho IMPORT MANAGER Email: cgrobeln CHILDREN’S WEAR Please faxresumeto212-239-2766 3140 Rt22W,Somerville,NJ08876 GRAPHIC ARTIST MERCHANDISER Merchandising [email protected] or Fax resumeto212-239-2766. HARTSTRINGS Fax resumeto212-239-2766 INVENTORY attn: HRDept-JobPIP, JEWELER Fax: 908-595-6217. Manager PLANNER y 212-971-4681 @vivagroup.com EOE y timely s f t / l , atrq rmicpint completion. to inception From 1407 Bwa req. mart nweg fGre e PDM, prints. Web Illustrator. Gerber and develop preferably of Excel, MSWordaplus. Photoshop CAD, Knowledge and with U4ia, Experienced design A Growth indi- Please system. applicant. cate salaryrequirements. right computer for Assyst with oppty proficient plus. generated be a experience Should Wal-Mart yrs. exp. Co. 5 min. patternmaker. Sportswear production Children’s needs based N.J. Other [email protected] *Tech Designer-Nwbrn&Infantmfr....To$65 * * * * * * * * * * * * * rltrc UT a eueto: resume Fax MUST! 718-649-9474 Attn: Robert a literacy Comput- er work. and clerical/administrative phones answering company. for based Responsible Brooklyn for Needed salary including resumes histor fax consideration, please immediate For plan. 401(k) W goods, leather of experience and extremelydetailoriented. aspects be quality NJfacility. the must in Edison, candidate ideal its The is for Control copmany Inspector Quality experienced accessories an seeking leather Fine W organized very be and havestrongfollow-upskills. Must agents. and manufacturers overseas com- with Daily orders. cost- munication bulk plac- and on schedules, sample action Work ing and delivery. timing o final ing, phases to all development initial in from involved production import be to oriented detail people experienced, company seeking is sportswear moderate Ladies v Current exp.inCo.doing150-200mil Production SourcingExec.to$200K. in exp. Current j $60K. to Coord Production and import language, 5 yearsexp.required.Faxresumeto: Chinese of Knowl- edge Assistant. Production seeks Apparel Co. Ladies’ Daytime/Evening Est’d. in op. retail/whsle a w Barth, St. Calypso w 973-564-9236 JaralFashionAgc Jones NewYork,SagHarbor,etc.Call rates. SourcingWW.MustHangw/ o nbs ed toganalytical Strong reqd. bus. skills &Excelproficiency. in Bache- allocation. & lor SKU Perform investment in & targets. turns. segments, inventory margin bus. exp. of maximizing gross analysis for & yrs. Resp. re- plans, inventory/ 5+ / ceipt sales OTB, managing devel. w/ & incl. Duties indiv. planning/allocation. seeks n eeispcaeicuiga including package benefits and fax Pls procedures. QC QC resume: M.Shapiro@914-934-0296 measurements; & garment, spec sampling garment famil- time be with Must iar Mgr. QC part assist to person exp seeks * xeine niiul.Candidates or individuals. graduates college experienced recent Seeking at division International its MiamiandNewYorkoffices. for Supreme candidates its seeks company apparel * APPAREL STAFFING,LTD. Quality ControlInspector Perry EllisInternational .dnmbtospiaelblfrwal- for label private bottoms denim r. Order Processorto$37KCurrentexp. FOR KNITS&WOVENS 3000 N.W.107Avenue,Miami,FL33172 Spec Tech-C.Wr.mfr-Allsizeranges Spec Tech-C&SKnits&Sweaters..... Graphic Dsgnrs(3)-App&Acc-LicChtr....$Ope Pre Prod’nAsst-LIloc-sptswrmfr.... Prod’n Coords(2)-bilingual-sptwrmfr..To$50 Prod Mgr-C&SKnits-Walmartexp Merch Dir-handbags&smlgds...To$100 $BOE Sr. Merchandiser-Jr.Girlsdenim... Design Dir-Jr.GirlsDenimexp Designer-Infant &Tdlrexp .....To$90K Designer-Nwbrn &Infantexp Sales Mgr-Jr&GirlsDenimSptwr Sr. AcctExec-BtrWomen’sSptwr...$Ope Division Head-JrSweaterBkgrd Allocator-Mjr SptwrMfr-Immedhire....$Open Call 973-564-9236JaralFashionAgc ol. wholesalerequiredinrelatedsepa- Production Assistant Garments-Part Time mns e’ hlrnsclothing children’s & men’s omen’s, to skills computer strong have ill in wal-martretaillinkformid-town fe necletcompensation excellent an offer e Importer Westchester ell-established PATTERNMAKER Openings inApparelThru PRODUCT MANAGER sportswear co.Assistsalespeople. Sportswear/Women’s Swimwear Alan Wolf-Since1971 y

or faxresumeto(212)302-1161 edn nentoa branded international leading Planner/Allocator Fax resumeto:973-856-9395 [email protected] Attn. HumanResourcesDept. RECEPTIONIST y Quality Control- [email protected]; faxto: Fax resumesto212-704-0784 EOE/Drug FreeWorkplace. Assistant Designers-Men’s (305) 593-1722;ormailto: andrequirementsto:212-842-3217 Please e-mailresumeto: Supreme International Attn:Import Production y . Call973-564-9236JaralAgc 212-382-3623 ...... To $90K ...... To ...... $BOE

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- WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 17, 2003 FEUGERE STEPHANE BY PHOTO 23 y .** y ahoo.com y 718-858-7497 Fax resume to: 905-513-0380 work week, no benfits required. ***APPAREL EMPLOYERS *** Fax resume to: Brazilian Co. seeking Sales Reps CHILDRENSWEAR SALES PRO childrenswearmaven@ Seeking showroom position. 3 day Do you need exp’d DESIGNERS, PRODUC **CALL 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agc INDEPENDENT REP Bras & Underwear Growing CanadianSportswear Ladies Contemporar cover Co. seeks the independentLarge commissions. rep Midwest. to Must have following. TION, ACCOUNTING, TECHNICAL etc. staff? News of Lagardère’s death Bernard Arnault, chairman of A major soccer fan, Lagardère Arnaud Lagardère, currently cently, it cently, has added radio stations, cable television channels, the French chain of Virgin Megastores and the European and Latin American publishing Universal. assets of Vivendi dominated media French over the weekend, with tributes pour- ing in from everyone from French president Jacques Chirac to Paris mayor Bertrand Delanoe. luxury group Hennessy Louis Vuitton, LVMH said he Moët was saddened and shocked by the death of his friend. “It is a tremendous loss for our country,” Arnault said. “He was one of the rare industrialists French who was able to bring his group to become among the world leaders.” was also known for his horse- manship and was a top breeder, owning some 220 horses. co-chief executive officer of Lagardère Group in charge of media activities, will succeed his father and was slated to present the company’s financial results Private today. funeral services for the family are set for Thursday in Normandy. Sales to $100K [email protected] Fax resume: 212-268-0812 Allen *Just Mgmt. * 800-544-5878 SALES EXECUTIVE MBA a plus. Major deptartment stores. Sales/European, Contemporary Collec- tion. 5+Comm. yrs. neg. Exp.212-448-0575 or Call: 212-448-0543 upon preferred. exp. Salary/ Fax resume: Leading privatecompany label fashion seekingperson jewelry exp’d with jewelry chain/departmentmass merchant bkgrd. Ben/Sal/Comm. store sales & Sales $ Higirls Open. CurrentJCPenney exp. sportswear selling ornec. Target.Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy or NY based dresses not Sales $ Open. Current exp. in missy to blouses $14 Wholesale. Or missy dresses $25-$30 Wholesale. Or Jr. $9-$16 Wholesale. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy. Sales $ Open. Current exp. in yg. mens/mens casual athletic or urban sportswear. Must hang w/ Iceberg, Nautica, Sean Jean, Nike, ETC. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy. Jean-Luc Lagardère, . l x . y c.com Hospitalized since last month A self-made tycoon, Lagardère Lagardère branched out into y + Comm. French Industrialist French Jean-Luc Lagardère PARIS — one of biggest France’s industrialists and owner of the Hachette media empire, died in Friday hospital of a rare neurological was 75. He disorder. Lagardère had after hip surgery, two years ago passed on day-today operations of his far-flung businesses to his son, Arnaud. He is also survived by his wife, a Betty, Paris society power- house and a close friend of designers Karl Lagerfeld and Emanuel Ungaro. began his career as an engineer in the aerospace industry. His holdings include Matra, one of Europe’s largest manufacturers of smart missiles and satellite technology. He was instrumental in forming Aeronautic Defense and Space the the Company, world’s second European largest aerospace group, of which Lagardère owned 15 percent. publishing in the Eighties with the acquisition of Hachette, publisher of more than 130 newspa- pers and magazines in over 30 countries, with titles including Elle and Paris Match. More re- ary world wide for 212-391-4431 SEARLE LOOK OUT Jewelry Sales . Store Managers/ è Assistant Managers or email to info@searlen Fax your resume to: 212-764-4524 Please fax resume to (212) 481-8136 ill pay high commission. Fax resume: / chain/discount stores and private Intimate Apparel Sales Pro aggressive salesperson with contacts in (323)265-3286; Email: [email protected] Trendy jewelry co. seeks exp’d, dynamic, the moderate market. Sal labeling in NY, Midwest & Northeast. Sales $100-150K+++.in JR. CurrentPrivate denim label exp. selling or to branded. dept. 1385 stores. B’way are required. Excellent salarypackage available. and benefits Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agc Bare Elegance seeksin sales intimate reps w/ apparelw exp & has connection W New junior sweateraccount division seeks sales key regional offices. in MAJORSresume to: N.Y. ONLY. Fa showroom or RETAIL Opportunities areindividuals available for withties. ambitious strong Attributes leadership shouldenergy combine quali- boundless andfashion enthusiasm merchandisingThree and with people years aexperience skills. of flair in prior for women’s retail or management men’s appare — Miles Socha Miles — , s * y g us Gallet’s start in the industry Babeth Djian, editor in chief “He brought a new perspec- “He was a perfectionist,” said in the tradition of [The New Cunningham.” Times’] Bill York was modest, filing pictures at the Paris photo agency Sygma. He got his first break taking pictures for the fashion French magazine L’Officiel, and he quickly became one of busiest freelancers in the Paris. Elle, Numero and Self Service were among the magazines to regularly showcase his work. of Numero, for whom Gallet shot the magazine’s people pages, praised Gallet for his She “humanity.” described his photographs as “full of poetry.” tive to the industry. He is irre- placeable,” she said. Madé, Gallet’s agent, who only uses a single name. “He had this incredible access to the fashion world because he respected everyone and, in turn, he was respected by everyone. Over the last couple of years his photographs had evolved incredibly. were Requests starting to come in from magazines like French Elle for fashion editorial. But and Wad more than that, he was one of the most elegant, most loveable people I’ve ever known.” No one makes better fitting contemporary pants. down the road. All resumes held in confidence. Tel: 212-705-3038 Fax: 212-705-2805 G.A.S. CO. New York, NY 10022 Fax: (212) 382-1791; email: [email protected] Opportunities include: B.A.D - Body Action Design Full Time and Part Time This is a career opportunity all the way with an ownership stake VP NATIONAL SALES MANAGER 155 East 60th Street, 1st Floor Gaultier*Escada*Calvin Klein B.A.D is a nationally acclaimed brand well known with retailers The ideal candidate will have a minimum of 5 years experience in our market our styling using fabrics containing Lycra Must be wellmajors. Understanding of regional markets critical. known and respected and have strong relationships with e offer Competitive Salaries and Fax resume to Donald 212-382-2549. re you friendly, eager, ambitious and Bloomingdale’s in Designer Collections Bloomingdale’s Human Resources Sales Professionals Paradox*Donna Karan*Armani*Celine an unparalleled shopping experience. motivated? Ifindividuals so, with we prior are Designer looking sales for W Benefits includingEmployee Employee Recognition and Discounts anfor Opportunit Bloomingdale’s is an Growth EqualEmployer M/F/D/V. Opportunity and Advancements. Leading knitsboth import and andexp, domestic co junior aggressive seekssalesperson an sweater sweaters withMay and/or Co, Dept strongrelationships. store knit and Candidate specialty Federated, mustorganized store be and detail well package commensurate with exp. oriented. Salary Retail Sales Bloomingdale’s is "Likein no other the store Beyond setting world." fashion trends, Andthe showcasin hottest for new designersto and good the catering needs reason. is the place to see and be seen. of celebrities, Bloomingdale’ A experience. Special qualities that make Sales Sales JNCO JNCO 213-748-3444 “He was popular with every- Indeed, Gallet was one of the “He always got the best pic- 212-967-1357 Confidentiality guranteed. at: RAMPAGE RAMPAGE y and he made everyone around him feel comfortable.” one,” added Karl Lagerfeld. “In my photo studio on every- Friday, one was in tears. He was right for the job because he could get closer to his subjects than other people.” few photographers fashion houses would allow to remain backstage even during their fashion shows. ture in the nicest way: with a smile and a thank you,” said Ed Filipowski, president of public relations and production firm KCD. “He was a true gentleman Bra Importer We areson. looking for Minimumence a 3 Salesper- in yearsto girls accounts. Aggressive experi- Individu- market.als Traveling Weresume to: 212-967-1357 want you!!!! Please fax Looking forfor Rampage Sales3 Girls. -5 Minimum Manager yearsmid-tier experience. Better Great and Opportunity.to dept. Traveling accounts isfax resume to:212-967-1357 stores. a must. Please Looking for ato Sales Manager handleMinimum 3 major yearswith experience accounts. mid-tierexperience. Must & havepeople skills. dept.store good Salary commen- suratePlease upon212-967-1357 Attn: Mark J. fax experience. Benun. resumes to Looking for strongson. salesper- sales Minimum experience.organized, 3-5 with Must goodskills. Please fax resumes to: people years be Large Companyconnections seeks with Dept. Repsell Stores bras and who can bycall Larr has the container load. Please / / s . . y y y young family. He is Gauthier Gallet, a ris-

KNITWEAR (212) 921-5064

Please call: (212) 564-5202 e. Benefits. Fax resume: 212-947-7601 y “He was adopted by everyone An affable young man whose As police have not concluded Sales Assistant must have a strong merchandiser’ Asst. Patternmaker Spec Tech Asst. to $40K. Western Spec Technician specing garments,pre-production, Technical Designer/ anted for our fast paced, N.Y.C. show- For Apparel and Home Furnishing. Excel computer. Call 973-564-9236 Agc Suffolk Co. near Nassau Co. LI. Exp. Obituaries Sales Asst/Merchandiser [email protected] ARTIST ORIGINAL TEXTILE Technical Designer to $60K. Current exp. in full fashion sweaters + cut & Sewn knits. Specing. 1411 Broadway. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agc English bilingual. Currenttings, exp. specs, intion of garment and fabrics. Midtown. flat fit- sketching,Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agc construc- Ladies Sportswear CoDesigner seeks with Technical strongconstruction spec & knowledge.experience garment with many Must differentas fabrics it have pertains toand original first samples. patterns, Key draping, in involvement design, merchandising,tion. Please fax resume: 212-869-4402. and produc- Technical Designer to $50K Chinese Good computer skills,plus. flat Immediate sketching opening! a Min.experience. Please fax resume to: 3-4 yrs. & communicate with overseas factories. Est’d watch co.school grad seeking w/ forexclnt 1-2 follow-thru a yrs skills. fashion ing exp. Resp out Must for have productso lay- presentations/rollouts taste/e W for a dedicated, personable,person high energy toE-mail resume & salary requirements to: join our successful team. Candidate must have strong spec room at 1466 Broadway. We’re looking garmentissue comments construction onknowledge of all all proto knowledge, aspects samples, of production in the fashion world, and everyone felt close to him, and it is for these reasons that everyone is so incredibly sad,” said designer Hedi Slimane. “Everyone accepted him because he was never intrusive, very discreet and such a nice person. He had a lot of elegance in his manner, in the way he carried himself, politeness and grace stood out among the often-gruff paparazzi, Gallet earned the respect and affection of designers and editors alike, who praised his pro- fessionalism and gentle nature. survived by his wife, Benedicte, and two daughters, Louise, 2, and Camille, seven months. their investigation into the single- vehicle accident, funeral services have only tentatively been set for Thursday. But the outpouring of grief was immediate and the Paris fashion community quickly rallied to establish a memorial fund to aid Gallet’s ing talent in photography and one of the most beloved charac- ters on the Paris fashion scene, died in the hospital here Friday of severe head injuries following a scooter crash earlier in the week. He was 31. PARIS PARIS — Gauthier Gallet, Photographer Gallet, Gauthier GOT ANYTHING PLANNED MARCH 26–27? CANCEL IT!

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Michael Wood Sonya Schroeder Vice President Senior Strategic Planner Teenage Research Unlimited The Geppetto Group

Laura McEwen Michael Eaton Publisher Head, Commercial Enterprises YM 19 Management (American Idol)

Paul Frank Marshal Cohen Creative Director Co-President Paul Frank Industries NPDFashionworld, the NPD Group

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