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Racing Form BELMONT, New York — Right Now Everyone’S Got Horse Fever

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Racing Form BELMONT, New York — Right Now Everyone’S Got Horse Fever MARC JACOBS’ $1B VISION/2 ANNA, CALVIN BACK TO SCHOOL/3 Women’sWWD Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • May 27, 2003 Vol. 185, No. 106 $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Racing Form BELMONT, New York — Right now everyone’s got horse fever. But while all eyes may be on Funny Cide, he’s not the only one who wants to look great for a day at the races. For Belmont-bound ladies, delicate floral dresses make a charming option. Case in point: Diane Von Furstenberg’s silk dress, worn here by model Emily Weiss, who is chatting with the thoroughbred’s jockey, Jose Santos. For more, see pages 6 and 7. Detailing the Defense: STYLED BY STYLED BOBBI BY QUEEN AND BROOKE MAGNAGHI Morgan Stanley Sues LVMH for $11.8 Million By Miles Socha PARIS — Fending off a $118-million bias and conflict of interest suit launched by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, Morgan Stanley relied on an unusual industry expert on its defense: Bernard Arnault. The LVMH chief is cited in the investment firm’s case, tabled Monday at the commercial court here, since he expressed opinions similar to those of Claire Kent, the Morgan Stanley luxury analyst he accuses of waging an anti-LVMH, pro-Gucci Group campaign in her See Morgan, Page9 PHOTO BY KYLE PHOTO ERICKSEN; KYLE BY HAIR CHRYSTOPH BY FOR MARTEN VIDAL SASSOON; MAKEUP MIZU BY FOR REAL COSMETICS/JUMP; SHOES; JILL STUART 2 Jacobs Maps Growth Plan WWDTUESDAY Ready-to-Wear/Textiles By Kristin Larson As reported, the company is in MAY 27, 2003 talks with various firms around , Y GENERAL A NEW YORK — Marc Jacobs sees the world about producing a bet- D nothing unhip about a mass- ter-priced line that would be FASHION: The Kentucky Derby crowd might be famous for its hats, but S E marketed apparel line. After all, even more accessible and com- 6 here’s a look at the best dresses for a day at the races. U T it could turn his name into a bil- mercial than the secondary Marc , Marc Jacobs sees nothing unhip about a mass-marketed apparel line. After D lion-dollar brand. by Marc Jacobs collection. 2 all, it could make his name into a billion-dollar brand. W One of fashion’s reigning Robert Duffy, president of W megastars who rose from the Marc Jacobs, said last week a Morgan Stanley countersues LVMH for $11.8 million, citing damages urban underground, Jacobs said deal might be finalized within 1 caused by proceedings it considers “abusive.” he doesn’t understand why peo- the next year and the line would Anna Wintour talked about the democratization of fashion while Calvin Klein ple refer to him as a hip design- be licensed to another party to accepted an honorary doctorate degree at FIT’s commencement Friday. er, even though his clothes have produce. He spoke of wanting to 3 long been favorites among the go after the Gap demographic EYE: Nineteen-year-old actress Mandy Moore wants to know where to celebrity and artist set. and was intrigued by the 4 shop in London…A bowling party in Hollywood, plus a scoop. “This idea of edginess and prospect of producing jeans that coolness and hipness is so old- retail for under $100 and T- Classified Advertisements ..................................................................14-15 fashioned,” the designer said in a shirts for between $40 and $50. To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is phone interview from Paris last Jeffry Aronsson, who joined [email protected], using the individual's name. week. “People say I’m a hip de- signer, but I am so not hip. All SUBSCRIPTION RATES these actors and performers [who U.S. and possessions, Retailer, daily one year, $99; Manufacturer, daily one year, $135. Marc Jacobs’ business as a whole All others U.S., daily one year $195. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. wear my clothes] are just normal Please allow 6-8 weeks for service to start. Individual subscription information/Single Copy Sales : (800) 289-0273; people. They don’t have this hip- “ outside U.S. (818) 487-4526; new group subscription information 212-630-4196 could easily be a $1 billion brand in five Postmaster: Send address changes to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. ness that outsiders give them. WWD (ISSN #0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional “It just seems like there’s years. We’re sitting on a powder keg of issue every month except July, and two additional issues in April and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc. an opportunity to continue a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc., 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001-8191. WWD is a registered trademark of Fairchild Publications Inc.© 2003 by Fairchild Publications Inc., doing what we do and [the opportunity. a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc. All rights reserved. prospect of doing a better- No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, priced line is] very positive. I ” including photocopying or recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, except as may be — Jeffry Aronsson, Marc Jacobs International expressly permitted in writing by the copyright owner. Editorial Reprints: (212) 221-9595 don’t think we would lose our Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and other offices. customers, but gain a wider Marc Jacobs International in the concept is still premature, it Mailed under Publications Mail Sales Agreement No. 517054. Canada Post Returns to: P.O.Box 1632, Windsor, ON N9A 7C9 GST # 88654-9096-RM 0001 Canada Publications Agreement # 40032712 audience and provide her with January as chief executive offi- has great potential. Printed in the U.S.A. more stuff she loves.” cer, said Thursday that while Continued on page 9 All signed articles published in the paper represent solely the individual opinion of the writer and not those of WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY. For Web site access, log on and subscribe to www.WWD.com. TUESDAY: The Conference Board reports on May Consumer Confidence. Intima Japan trade fair for intimate apparel and Ford Pockets $38M From Gucci Shares fabrics, Tokyo (through Wednesday). PARIS — Gucci Group may have and chief executive Domenico WEDNESDAY: Jones Apparel Group and Warnaco a big cash pile, but so does its De Sole are in talks to renew Group annual shareholder meetings, New York. creative director Tom Ford. their contracts with Pinault- Laboratory Institute of Merchandising Com- Ford made approximately Printemps-Redoute, which owns mencement 2003, New York. $38 million in the past two 63.28 percent of Gucci. PPR can Dennis Basso’s Fur Fashion & Luxury Outerwear months from buying and selling acquire as much as 70 percent 20th Anniversary show, New York. shares in the company. The of the firm on the open market transactions came to light over before the end of the year. After THURSDAY: Dallas Market Center’s fall II-holiday ap- the holiday weekend as part of that, PPR has committed to pay- parel and accessories market (through June 2). filings with Autoriteit Finan- ing $101.50 a share for the rest Chico’s FAS reports on first-quarter earnings. ciele Markten, the Dutch finan- of the company, or an expected Kellwood reports on first-quarter earnings and cial market regulator. Gucci total of $3.6 billion. holds annual shareholders meeting, St. Louis. Group is listed in Amsterdam A spokesman for Gucci and New York. Group declined to comment on SUNDAY: NAMSB WorldSource show, New York Ford exercised about half of Ford’s trades but characterized (through June 3). his four million stock options in them as not unusual. COMING THIS WEEK Moda Prima knitwear show, Milan (through June 3). Gucci Group between April 7 Last year, Ford cashed in and May 5. 450,000 options that netted him an The transactions come at a Tom Ford estimated $23 million, as reported. sensitive moment since Ford — Brid Costello In Brief G BUY BACK: French cheap-chic retailer Naf Naf wants to go No Jones Apparel-Polo Split Yet private. The firm, which also controls the men’s brand Chevignon, said it hopes to buy its free-floating shares at $25.52. By Lisa Lockwood two months, it is generally be- 2004, and sources said she may Trading of Naf Naf shares on the Paris Bourse was suspended lieved the licenses are headed be headed to Polo to run the May 14 at $21.46. (Prices are converted from euros at current ex- NEW YORK — Although it seems back to Polo, when the Ralph li- Lauren businesses. change.) The offer concerns 26.5 percent of the company’s capi- inevitable that Jones Apparel cense expires in December 2003. As reported, the present dis- tal. Brothers Patrick and Gerard Pariente own a controlling 62 Group will lose the Lauren by Anita Britt, executive vice pute between Jones and Polo percent stake. The news coincides with renewed growth at the Ralph Lauren and Ralph licens- president of finance for Jones, stems from the weak sales of the firm after several rocky years. Last year, the group’s sales grew es, it’s not a fait accompli yet. said, “We have no further up- Ralph licensed line. For 2002, 10 percent to $305.7 million. Net income advanced 22 percent to A published report Friday in date on the licensing dispute. As the contracted minimum for the $16.38 million. the New York Post said Polo and soon as we do have further in- Ralph line was $100 million, but Jones had split, but the reality is formation, we’ll be out with a Jones’ revenues from the Ralph they’re still in discussions and press release to Wall Street.” license were just $37 million.
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