MARC JACOBS’ $1B VISION/2 ANNA, CALVIN BACK TO SCHOOL/3 Women’sWWD Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • May 27, 2003 Vol. 185, No. 106 $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Racing Form BELMONT, New York — Right now everyone’s got horse fever. But while all eyes may be on Funny Cide, he’s not the only one who wants to look great for a day at the races. For Belmont-bound ladies, delicate floral dresses make a charming option. Case in point: Diane Von Furstenberg’s silk dress, worn here by model Emily Weiss, who is chatting with the thoroughbred’s jockey, Jose Santos. For more, see pages 6 and 7.

Detailing the Defense: STYLED BY STYLED BOBBI BY QUEEN AND BROOKE MAGNAGHI Morgan Stanley Sues LVMH for $11.8 Million By Miles Socha PARIS — Fending off a $118-million bias and conflict of interest suit launched by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, Morgan Stanley relied on an unusual industry expert on its defense: Bernard Arnault. The LVMH chief is cited in the investment firm’s case, tabled Monday at the commercial court here, since he expressed opinions similar to those of Claire Kent, the Morgan Stanley luxury analyst he accuses of waging an anti-LVMH, pro-Gucci Group campaign in her See Morgan, Page9 PHOTO BY KYLE PHOTO ERICKSEN; KYLE BY HAIR CHRYSTOPH BY FOR MARTEN VIDAL SASSOON; MAKEUP MIZU BY FOR REAL COSMETICS/JUMP; SHOES; JILL STUART 2 Jacobs Maps Growth Plan WWDTUESDAY Ready-to-Wear/Textiles By Kristin Larson As reported, the company is in MAY 27, 2003

talks with various firms around , Y GENERAL

A NEW YORK — Marc Jacobs sees the world about producing a bet-

D nothing unhip about a mass- ter-priced line that would be FASHION: The Kentucky Derby crowd might be famous for its hats, but S

E marketed apparel line. After all, even more accessible and com- 6 here’s a look at the best dresses for a day at the races. U

T it could turn his name into a bil- mercial than the secondary Marc

, Marc Jacobs sees nothing unhip about a mass-marketed apparel line. After D lion-dollar brand. by Marc Jacobs collection. 2 all, it could make his name into a billion-dollar brand. W One of fashion’s reigning Robert Duffy, president of

W megastars who rose from the Marc Jacobs, said last week a Morgan Stanley countersues LVMH for $11.8 million, citing damages urban underground, Jacobs said deal might be finalized within 1 caused by proceedings it considers “abusive.” he doesn’t understand why peo- the next year and the line would Anna Wintour talked about the democratization of fashion while Calvin Klein ple refer to him as a hip design- be licensed to another party to accepted an honorary doctorate degree at FIT’s commencement Friday. er, even though his clothes have produce. He spoke of wanting to 3 long been favorites among the go after the Gap demographic EYE: Nineteen-year-old actress Mandy Moore wants to know where to celebrity and artist set. and was intrigued by the 4 shop in London…A bowling party in Hollywood, plus a scoop. “This idea of edginess and prospect of producing jeans that coolness and hipness is so old- retail for under $100 and T- Classified Advertisements ...... 14-15 fashioned,” the designer said in a shirts for between $40 and $50. To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is phone interview from Paris last Jeffry Aronsson, who joined [email protected], using the individual's name. week. “People say I’m a hip de- signer, but I am so not hip. All SUBSCRIPTION RATES these actors and performers [who U.S. and possessions, Retailer, daily one year, $99; Manufacturer, daily one year, $135. Marc Jacobs’ business as a whole All others U.S., daily one year $195. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. wear my clothes] are just normal Please allow 6-8 weeks for service to start. Individual subscription information/Single Copy Sales : (800) 289-0273; people. They don’t have this hip- “ outside U.S. (818) 487-4526; new group subscription information 212-630-4196 could easily be a $1 billion brand in five Postmaster: Send address changes to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. ness that outsiders give them. WWD (ISSN #0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional “It just seems like there’s years. We’re sitting on a powder keg of issue every month except July, and two additional issues in April and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc. an opportunity to continue a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc., 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001-8191. WWD is a registered trademark of Fairchild Publications Inc.© 2003 by Fairchild Publications Inc., doing what we do and [the opportunity. a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc. All rights reserved. prospect of doing a better- No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, priced line is] very positive. I ” including photocopying or recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, except as may be — Jeffry Aronsson, Marc Jacobs International expressly permitted in writing by the copyright owner. Editorial Reprints: (212) 221-9595 don’t think we would lose our Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and other offices. customers, but gain a wider Marc Jacobs International in the concept is still premature, it Mailed under Publications Mail Sales Agreement No. 517054. Canada Post Returns to: P.O.Box 1632, Windsor, ON N9A 7C9 GST # 88654-9096-RM 0001 Canada Publications Agreement # 40032712 audience and provide her with January as chief executive offi- has great potential. Printed in the U.S.A. more stuff she loves.” cer, said Thursday that while Continued on page 9 All signed articles published in the paper represent solely the individual opinion of the writer and not those of WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY. For Web site access, log on and subscribe to www.WWD.com.

TUESDAY: The Conference Board reports on May Consumer Confidence. Intima Japan trade fair for intimate apparel and Ford Pockets $38M From Gucci Shares fabrics, Tokyo (through Wednesday).

PARIS — Gucci Group may have and chief executive Domenico WEDNESDAY: Jones Apparel Group and Warnaco a big cash pile, but so does its De Sole are in talks to renew Group annual shareholder meetings, New York. creative director Tom Ford. their contracts with Pinault- Laboratory Institute of Merchandising Com- Ford made approximately Printemps-Redoute, which owns mencement 2003, New York. $38 million in the past two 63.28 percent of Gucci. PPR can Dennis Basso’s Fur Fashion & Luxury Outerwear months from buying and selling acquire as much as 70 percent 20th Anniversary show, New York. shares in the company. The of the firm on the open market transactions came to light over before the end of the year. After THURSDAY: Dallas Market Center’s fall II-holiday ap- the holiday weekend as part of that, PPR has committed to pay- parel and accessories market (through June 2). filings with Autoriteit Finan- ing $101.50 a share for the rest Chico’s FAS reports on first-quarter earnings. ciele Markten, the Dutch finan- of the company, or an expected Kellwood reports on first-quarter earnings and cial market regulator. Gucci total of $3.6 billion. holds annual shareholders meeting, St. Louis. Group is listed in Amsterdam A spokesman for Gucci and New York. Group declined to comment on SUNDAY: NAMSB WorldSource show, New York Ford exercised about half of Ford’s trades but characterized (through June 3).

his four million stock options in them as not unusual. COMING THIS WEEK Moda Prima knitwear show, Milan (through June 3). Gucci Group between April 7 Last year, Ford cashed in and May 5. 450,000 options that netted him an The transactions come at a Tom Ford estimated $23 million, as reported. sensitive moment since Ford — Brid Costello In Brief

BUY BACK: French cheap-chic retailer Naf Naf wants to go No Jones Apparel-Polo Split Yet private. The firm, which also controls the men’s brand Chevignon, said it hopes to buy its free-floating shares at $25.52. By Lisa Lockwood two months, it is generally be- 2004, and sources said she may Trading of Naf Naf shares on the Paris Bourse was suspended lieved the licenses are headed be headed to Polo to run the May 14 at $21.46. (Prices are converted from euros at current ex- NEW YORK — Although it seems back to Polo, when the Ralph li- Lauren businesses. change.) The offer concerns 26.5 percent of the company’s capi- inevitable that Jones Apparel cense expires in December 2003. As reported, the present dis- tal. Brothers Patrick and Gerard Pariente own a controlling 62 Group will lose the Lauren by Anita Britt, executive vice pute between Jones and Polo percent stake. The news coincides with renewed growth at the Ralph Lauren and Ralph licens- president of finance for Jones, stems from the weak sales of the firm after several rocky years. Last year, the group’s sales grew es, it’s not a fait accompli yet. said, “We have no further up- Ralph licensed line. For 2002, 10 percent to $305.7 million. Net income advanced 22 percent to A published report Friday in date on the licensing dispute. As the contracted minimum for the $16.38 million. the New York Post said Polo and soon as we do have further in- Ralph line was $100 million, but Jones had split, but the reality is formation, we’ll be out with a Jones’ revenues from the Ralph they’re still in discussions and press release to Wall Street.” license were just $37 million. haven’t reached any conclusions. A spokeswoman for Polo Ralph According to sources, Polo As reported in these columns for Lauren said, “We don’t comment claims the Ralph license is Clarifications on ongoing business discussions.” linked to the Lauren by Ralph Should the two companies Lauren license, which is a much A WWD story Friday on the seminar at the 92nd Street Y entitled part ways, Jones will still be more successful line and did $548 “What’s Good For America Toward A New Corporate Ethic,” fea- making the Lauren by Ralph million in net sales last year. turing Leslie Wexner, chairman and chief executive officer of Lauren and Ralph lines for the Although the Ralph license ex- The Limited Brands Inc., reported that questions were written short term. The spring 2004 lines pires Dec. 31 of this year, and the on cards, collected by ushers and taken backstage before being would likely be part of the so- Lauren license runs until Dec. handed to moderator David R. Gergen. The decision to handle called transition period and co- 31, 2006, sources close to Polo the Q&A format in this way was made by Gergen and the 92nd incide with the expiration of said the two contracts are linked, Street Y, according to a Limited spokesman, while a Y Jackwyn Nemerov’s noncompete and once Jones defaults on one, spokesman said this is the common practice at its seminars. agreement. Nemerov, former it automatically defaults on the president of Jones, was instru- other. Sources said Polo’s view Liz Claiborne Inc. will continue to test Crazy Horse Collection, a mental in the development of the that the deals are linked together relaxed career line, in J.C. Penney stores. The maker launched Lauren brand and is considered gives it leverage if things were to the line there in February. The line will complement the casual to be highly thought of within the go wrong with one deal. Crazy Horse line, which is has been sold at Penney’s since 1998. Polo organization. Her noncom- However, Jones has contended This was unclear in a story on page 11, May 23. pete agreement expires in June Continued on page 13 3 WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 27, 2003 IANNACCONE THOMAS BY PHOTOS and Kelly For those was there, giving from Buddah Bar and Apparently Donna Karan , $298, for the film after from Genaside 2 London. really is keeping it real. David Visan Justin Guarini In the bag: A champagne Jenny JEANS, ITALIAN STYLE: concerned that DKNY have been hosting too many fear not. The designer’s parties lately, next big event on June 25 is scheduled in Milan, where DKNY Jeans turns a tram repair station into a party that attempts to re-create the bringing Karan’s spirit of New York. band, The Rapture, over the New York plus Kris Bones IDOL BEHAVIOR: “American Idol” break-out Clarkson Eschewing a stylist to wardrobe her every move, Clarkson scooped up five items at Horn last week for her June 13 movie premiere of “From along with the Justin to Kelly,” related promotional activities. Co- star her support every step of the way. Packham Forties-flavored silk chiffon dress, ticketed at $1,000; a chocolate halter dress designed by Horn owner Susanne Zenter and a Plein Sud mocha brown party, sleeveless wrap dress with leather straps, $800. She also bought a Twin- Set camouflage tank top, $150, and $220 Joie chocolate satin cargo pants. ’s Ellen Tracy handbags and jewelry come Claiborne executives have spoken often accessories showroom has been The LCA , the Ellen Tracy has just launched handbags and has just launched Ellen Tracy jewelry. and Dillard’s, Bucciarelli noted. Company executives declined to give sales projec- tions for the line, but said they expect it to be “substantial.” at a time of rapid growth at Claiborne’s ac- cessories division, which has recently launched a number of other collections, both in brands it owns and ones it produces under license. Among the newest offerings are Monet bridal jewelry, Kenneth Cole jewelry, Sigrid Olsen handbags and Lucky Brand Dungarees accessories. about the importance of accessories to their overall business. In 2002, sales in the wholesale nonapparel segment, which pri- marily includes accessories, grew 5.6 per- cent to $138 million. redesigned so that Ellen Kenneth Tracy, Cole, Olsen and Lucky Brand Dungarees each have their own mini showrooms in the downstairs area, which formerly housed human resources. Double-faced wool totes are among the offerings. Elizabeth , , found Helmut Newton One famous Moty Spector Alé de Basseville Sir Elton John 0 to fan, Outbid: Taylor himself leaving a recent Cannes benefit for Cinema Against AIDS without a prized photograph that was up for auction. portrait of a bejeweled Liz in her swimming pool, autographed by the went for a high bid of star, $45,00 the industry from the other side of the camera. Kiera is now running Limelight Features, the production is still company started by her father, at work on her first album, an untitled collection of songs she describes as planning “sexy electro-rock” and she’s a wedding to Frenchman she met in Paris and has been dating for the past two years. But don’t count on the nuptials (no date set) being traditional. Kiera sports a ring of skull tattoos one-year-old around her upper left arm, and a skull engagement ring. “I have a skull inside what’s fetish,” she admits. “It’s all of our heads, after all.” president and chief executive of Vivid Collection, the diamond That was three times its company. why not?estimate. Well, “She is a true lover of diamonds and epitomizes beauty and sophistication,” Spector said. Mr. Liz Claiborne Inc. re- doesn’t . She was , who took a Newly recognized the While the 54-year-old bridge brand has Claiborne purchased Ellen Tracy last are “We very serious about handbags Similar to Ellen Tracy’s bridge apparel, Many of the items have touches such as The jewelry, meanwhile, includes ster- “Nothing is timid in this collection,” said Both lines will be targeted to stores . Movies are still in Ellen Tracy: Jewelry, Handbags Bow for Fall for Bow Handbags Jewelry, Tracy: Ellen Kletter Melanie By NEW YORK — ally do anything small, so it’s no surprise that the company’s first collection of Ellen Tracy handbags and jewelry includes a vast array of styles and looks for day and bow for fall. evening set to long had licensees in categories from belts to bath products, this is its first entrance into these two accessories segments. It’s a natural development from Claiborne’s perspective, since the fashion giant pro- duces handbags and jewelry for many of its company-owned brands, and both handbags and jewelry have been stand- outs at retail, receiving more space at many stores as of late. September for about $180 million, as re- ported, and it immediately got to work find- ing ways to extend the brand. said and Ed jewelry,” Bucciarelli, president of the Liz Claiborne Accessory Group. “This is designed to complete the lifestyle of the line.” Ellen Tracy the handbags are full of sophisticated yet wearable looks with a hint of sex appeal. The wide collection includes styles for both day and evening, including fur handbags, double-faced boiled wool totes, suede clutches and leather wristlets, as well as pearl and beaded evening styles. There are also metallic looks and tiny shoulder bags and a selection of small leather goods, in- cluding wallets and ID holders. red interiors, chain straps or frames in- spired by vintage looks. Wholesale prices range from about $48 for wristlets up to $500 for a chinchilla evening bags, with the bulk falling in the range of $60 to $120. ling silver cuff bracelets and plenty of semiprecious stones, such as mother-of- pearl, carnelian, onyx and labradorite, along with cubic zirconia. Much of the jew- elry has white or yellow bronze with hand- polished finishes. Bucciarelli, who noted that LCI has worked closely with Ellen Tracy design director Linda Allard to develop the handbags and “Everything has a gutsiness to it.” jewelry. where Ellen Tracy apparel and accessories are sold including already, Saks Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdale’s and Neiman Marcus, as well as Macy’s, Lord & Taylor Denys Arcand Kiera Chaplin , in town to bow as L’Oréal’s The Latest Model-Actress: Natalia The Other Chaplain: Mouna Ayoub . “A good corset isn’t constricting, A stranger to neither modeling eyed leather corsets as the handiwork of Pearl I don’t care if you’re as womanly. it’s thin as Karolina. Every woman can benefit from wearing one.” nor movies, declared, turn on the Cavalli runway, “I think the whole point of tonight is to be sexy and have fun.” As Cavalli himself wrapped her in an embrace, he echoed the sentiment, “This night has been amazing.” Vodianova newest poster girl, also found time during her two-day stay to attend her first premiere, “Les Invasions Barbares,” by unexpectedly moved by the movie. “I cried seven times. I cried so hard I had to stop myself because I didn’t want to ruin my face,” she said. “It’s my job to be beautiful.” minted Angeleno Kiera Chaplin may have hit Cannes just to walk in but her runway show, Cavalli’s grandfather Charlie was also the most subject of one of the festival’s anticipated films, “Chaplin...” by Richard Schickel her blood, but she prefers to dabble in , didn’t Hedi Slimane Karl Lagerfeld Alek Wek Caroline Karolina Kurkova “When I was thinking about what to Klein, class of 1963, was on hand to “Fashion is a tough, complex busi- Meanwhile, before the ceremony, , my favorite model right Vogue editor Anna Wintour, FIT editor Anna Wintour, Vogue president Joyce Brown and Calvin Klein. McCollough, who started Proenza Schouler after graduating from Parsons School of Design last year. say to you, I decided to tap the the brain number of one FIT graduate I knew,” to him, ‘What should “I said said Wintour. I say to these students that might actually be of use?’ He said, ‘The most important thing is to have a vision. It matter doesn’t what you’re doing, just so long as you have a point of view that’s entirely your agree more.” own.’ Calvin, I couldn’t receive an honorary doctorate of fine arts degree from his alma He mater. said the school taught him to believe in his ideas, which ultimately convinced others to believe in his ideas as a result. ness that craves new ideas, whether it’s marketing, merchandising or de- sign,” said Klein. “In simple words, be inspired and be fearless.” Klein told WWD of his worst moment at FIT: “There was a class for design students on understanding machinery and one of the ones we studied was the sewing machine. I got my finger caught in the machine and the needle went through my index finger twice before it finally broke. Fortunately, today, you can be a designer without sewing yourself.” and we going to do with Mr. Cavalli?” we going to do with Mr. After the ladies strutted down the also had clothes on the Williams an eagle- And a few tables away, hear him backstage, where they leather corset shimmied into Cavalli’s dresses and killer heels. “Ah, what are asked Anouk, raising her eyebrow “Bite your tongue!” mischievously. so in love with his “He’s laughed Wek, wife he wouldn’t notice.” they joined the dinner guests, runway, who table-hopped more than they ate. As Moreau played a card game on her dinner plate, she rhapsodized in her gravelly voice about the clothes she’d packed for the festivities. “ made me two smokings, made me the jacket I’m wearing tonight, as well as a divine silver dress.” brain. “Since I’m designing my own line, I’m getting really inspired by everything I’m seeing tonight. I’ll never give up my Cavalli, though.” quipping, “I love all the outfits, especially the ones on Parsons a good thing It’s now.” Anouk , and Harvey Dame Kiera Chaplin , Serena The French Elizabeth , The 11-day Roberto Cavalli Meg Ryan Jeanne Moreau ,

and Anna Wintour gave a his-

showed up with his

Mouna Ayoub

, Monica Bellucci , The Fashion Fete:

Even Miramax honcho The presentation of his current

The Vogue editor in chiefThe Vogue ’s address Couture shows, she said, were “J.Lo might be wearing Sixties’ Wintour said the public’s concern there “Although may not be a hiring Wintour cited several key figures in Fashion Scoops Fashion Weinstein pulchritudinous entourage, sounding like quite the fashionista himself, a multitude of jet-setters. Natalia Vodianova Williams Riviera turned into the Italian Riviera night when, in his usual Wednesday flamboyant fashion, hit Cannes with a flurry of leopard prints, lovely ladies and lots of leg- baring dresses. was spring collection, and the dinner, held at the Palm Beach Hotel and Casino and sponsored by Chopard and Paris Premiere. It was the most fashion-y event all week, and attracted an international set of Cavalli lovers including CANNES IN THE CAN: festival ended Sunday on a fashionable note, with Hurley Elizabeth Taylor Elizabeth Taylor making trips up the Palais steps in style. Among the highlights: By Joshua Greene Joshua By NEW YORK — tory lesson to the more than 2,000 stu- dents and throngs of family and friends amassed at Radio City Music Hall Friday Institute of Technology’s for the Fashion 57th commencement exercises. to the class of 2003 described the fash- ion industry’s evolution from elitist roots to a democratized state today. Wintour said when she entered the business as the most “junior of junior” editors at Harper’s & Queen in her na- tive London, fashion was something worn by a limited section of society, which also meant that the magazine and fashion industry were taken less seriously than they are today. black-tie affairs held in either Roman palazzos or in Paris, which clearly re- inforced her point that, at the time, people with time and money on their hands wore fashion, while everyone else wore clothes. couture Valentino to the Oscars but now, she would not have been allowed any- where near the show where that dress first appeared,” Wintour said. “If a de- signer was famous, it was in a small, elit- ist way. Nowadays, someone like Calvin [Klein] is a world-famous artist whose name operates as a huge cultural force.” about and attention to style has never been which greater, means more av- enues for those entering the design field. frenzy out there at this moment,” said “there Wintour, have, historically speaking, never been more opportuni- ties for those who are determined and creative. If you do not succeed in land- ing the plum fashion design job that you’ve long dreamed of, with resource- fulness and self-belief and, above all, you will succeed in the end.” flexibility, the industry — who also happened to be FIT graduates — who took creativity and worked it into a diverse in- career, cluding Candy Pratts Price, Rebecca Moses and Michael Kors. The most re- cent careers Wintour cited included Lazaro Hernandez and Jack

At FIT Commencement FIT At Wintour Addresses Grads Addresses Wintour 4

Kelly Osbourne China Chow in More and Moore vintage. LOS ANGELES — Hours before pop star-actress Mandy Moore takes off to London, where she’ll begin her ninth film, the 19-year-old interrupts the shop talk for that of the retail kind. With a limited time to shop in London, eye® “Where should I go?” she asks in a lowered voice. Stocking up on vintage and designer finds from Marni, Stella McCartney,

WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 27, 2003 WWD, TUESDAY, Chloé and Matthew Williamson seems a guilty pleasure for one of the hardest working hyphenates of her generation, a pop star, actress, Neutrogena spokeswoman, and a regular host and guest on MTV — who also has her eye on Broadway. Her latest film “How to Deal,” in which Moore plays a quirky teen opposite Trent Ford, boasts a cool soundtrack — The Donnas, Howlin’ Wolf, The Music — rivaled only by her character’s wardrobe — vintage sweaters, Cacharel tops, old school Nikes and Moore’s own Juicy Couture jeans. But the film also marks the first time the demure actress will show a little skin. In one pivotal scene, she strips down to a strapless bra and pants. “That was weird. I just don’t feel the need to dress provocatively,” she says. “It’s easier to go the sexy route. Sex sells, even if it’s also more criticized. But if I’m going to spend my life selling myself in music and films, I want to be comfortable.” Well, she’d better get comfortable, because during the next few months, Moore will be selling her skills non- stop. In London she’ll begin filming “First Daughter,” starring as presidential progeny giving the Secret Service the slip during a European vacation. Stars and Strikes Come next month, Moore will arrive in New York for the premiere (probably Joanna in Lanvin) with tennis star Andy Roddick, Bacalso the 20-year-old true love of Moore’s young life. “It’s my first time ever on the red carpet with a date!” she gushes. I can be a rent-a- “friend. Just pay me in clothing. ” — Mandy Moore

And before her next film, “Saved,” hits theaters next fall, Moore will be promoting a new album, “Coverage,” featuring covers of Joan Jessica Cauffiel Armatrading, Elton John and XTC in Emporio songs, with additional vocals by Ivana Milicevic Armani top, Evan Dando and the Rembrandts. in a Mui Mui Giorgio Armani It’s the third album since her debut Gretchen Mol in “So Real,” which she released at top and Anna jacket and Blue Emporio Armani. age 15, prompting her to leave Molinari pants. Cult jeans. Emporio Armani. Orlando, Fla., and Catholic school for the fast lane. “I love bowling!” howled Kelly Osbourne, after Except for a Todd Rundgren hurling her ball down the alley and knocking down breakup tune, the new album is driven all but two of the neon pins glowing under the lane’s by Moore’s love match. “Scheduling black light. “This is so much better than a club.” becomes tricky at times. And our With images from “A Clockwork Orange” flashing phone bills are so high! But what to do on the walls and the alley’s slogan — “Keep out of when you’re in love?” she sighs. “At the Gutter” — posted with pride, the Lucky Strike least he’ll be in Europe this summer Bowl, may be Hollywood’s coolest alternative to for the French Open and Wimbledon.” clubland. Owen Wilson and Limp Bizkit’s Fred But while the couple might be pop’s Durst turned up in time to catch saucy models Romeo and Juliet, their romance comes strutting the lanes during an Agent Provocateur with a parental stamp of approval. fashion show, and many at Wednesday’s bash Moore’s mom, a former news reporter stayed well after midnight to bowl. Jeremy Scott, and a big tennis fan, met Roddick after a competitive bowler in his younger years, a Toronto tournament and brought him demonstrated the proper stance for Kirsty Hume, to the set to meet Moore. “My parents Lisa Marie and Ione Skye. love him,” she offers enthusiastically. “I’ve got my vibrator right here,” Ivana Milicevic “Andy’s played tennis with my mom yelled, showing an alley attendant the buzz box, and that was the ultimate.” proving her turn was next. “I’ve been waiting for this all Alas, the girl who can do just night.” about everything isn’t much on the Earlier in the evening, Milla Jovovich and Vanity Fair court. “My job is to just go out, sit hosted the reopening of the Emporio Armani boutique in in the stands and cheer him on,” Beverly Hills, an event benefiting the Wildlands Project.

she says. Among the guests there to toast the facelift were Sarah WIREIMAGE BY MOORE BOYE; TYLER BY STRIKE SARDELLA;LUCKY DONATO BY ARMANI EMPORIO From the front row, Moore also Wynter, Kelly Lynch, Gretchen Mol, Joanna Bacalso and Joy cheered on New York designer Bryant, who was eagerly anticipating her trip to Lucky Marc Jacobs last February. Yet Strike, though she couldn’t practice her technique. Milla Jovovich in despite her love of fashion and all “I can’t break my nails!” Bryant wailed. things “girlie girl,” she hasn’t been Emporio Armani. befriended by any one house. “I haven’t become buddies with anybody, but I’d like to. I can be a HEAT OF THE MOMENT: A rumor is spreading up and rent-a-friend,” she teases. “Just pay down Park Avenue that Alexandra Miller, who me in clothing.” EYE SCOOP recently left her husband, Alex von Furstenberg, is — Rose Apodaca Jones dating England’s famed lothario Tim Jeffries. The two have been spotted in London Mandy Moore together and were reported to have spent this past weekend in St. Tropez. 5 Media/Advertising Sporting Goods Retailers TUESDAY,WWD, 2003 27, MAY Hoping Millennials Will Read ‘Red’ Endure Trying 1st Quarter By Greg Lindsay are seen as experiments by advertisers. The Sun- Times has said it will publish Red Streak as long By Dan Burrows cents, versus $2.6 million, or 22 NEW YORK — Will Millennials ever read the as Red Eye is around, while potential advertisers cents, a year ago. Still, earnings newspaper? And, if they do, will retailers then try admit they want to ensure the papers have some NEW YORK — Like their less per share beat the Wall Street to reach them through the gray pages? staying power before they commit ad dollars. physical counterparts, sporting forecast by 2 cents. Excluding non- A pair of ambitious experiments designed to But Red Eye’s pitch to Chicago-based retailers goods retailers had limited suc- recurring charges and a tax bene- answer “yes” to both questions is under way in was strong enough to score a few early successes. cess hurdling the tepid econo- fit, net income soared 61.7 percent Chicago, where fledgling tabloids Red Eye and Carson Pirie Scott, a unit of Saks Inc., has been run- my, war in Iraq and lousy spring to $4.2 million, or 34 cents. Red Streak are both fighting for readers who don’t ning off and on in the paper since its launch, high- weather during the first quarter. Sales for the period waned read. Or don’t read their parents’ papers, anyway. lighting younger-skewing brands like Sean John. Generally, comparable-store 6.8 percent to $228.4 million Red Eye and Red Streak are the progeny of the “If the newspaper can get more young customers sales finished below year-ago from $245 million, and same- local heavyweights, The Chicago Tribune and The into our stores and is a vehicle that’s being read, we levels but earnings came in store sales dropped 8.8 percent. Chicago Sun-Times, respective- want to make sure we’re in it,” ahead of Wall Street estimates. “As we begin the second ly. Both began publishing last said Ed Carroll, Carson Pirie At The Sports Authority, weak quarter, we are encouraged by Halloween, although Red Eye Scott’s executive vice president sales and comparable-store recent trends in both comp-store is the originator of the concept of marketing. He added, “We’ve sales depleted profits by more sales and margins,” said ceo — after the Tribune announced looked at the sales results rela- than two thirds. Doug Morton, in a statement. its launch plans, the Sun-Times tive to what our other markets For the three months ended “Additionally, our inventory mix scrambled to start Red Streak are doing, and on a per-cost May 3, the Fort Lauderdale, Fla.- is well positioned and we con- as a defensive move. basis, we feel it’s great.” based firm posted a 71.3 percent tinue to maintain a tight control They started life as free The key phrase is “cost fall in net income to $489,000, or over expenses. With our pend- dailies printed five days a basis” — ad pages in both pa- 1 cent a diluted share. That com- ing merger with The Sports week and, more than six pers sell at a significant dis- pares with last year’s earnings of Authority, we remain committed months later, neither has man- count compared with the par- $1.7 million, or 5 cents. Net in- to becoming the nation’s preem- aged to convert their reader- ent papers, rather than a pre- come was reduced by one-time inent sporting goods retailer.” ships — which are somewhere mium. A full-page ad in Red aftertax charges accruing to $1 Bucking the larger trend, south of the 100,000 copies Eye costs just $2,000, and Red million. Earnings per share, Foot Locker Inc. shrugged off each prints each weekday — Streak’s sales force is scared however, did manage to beat the the soggy spring and reported to entirely paid ones at a cost the Sun-Times’ current adver- Wall Street estimates by 2 cents. earnings and sales gains. of 25 cents a day. While offi- tisers might elect en masse for Sales for the period fell 4.1 per- For the three months ended cials at the two papers claim its cheaper ($1,359 per page) cent to $339.1 million from $353.5 May 3, the New York-based retail the majority of their readers option. “Carson’s is one of the million last year, as poor weather giant said net income soared 90 now buy the papers, the state- largest advertisers in the Sun- depressed comps 5.7 percent. percent to $38 million, or 26 cents. ment cannot be confirmed Times,” Red Streak’s market- As reported, The Sports Au- By comparison, last year the firm since neither is audited. And The front page of the Tribune’s Red Eye. ing coordinator, Ari Frank, thority and Gart Sports Co. are recorded profits of $20 million, or reports are that many readers feel their light, said. “While we do offer them space at a discount- merging in a deal slated to close 14 cents. Excluding a $1 million, breezy tones and news selection are condescend- ed rate, we don’t want to discourage them from in July. or 1 cent, aftertax charge for an ing rather than “a quick read.” (Red Eye launched advertising there as much as they are.” “While the first-quarter sales accounting change, income in the with a page-one story that Starbucks was testing Both papers have targeted boutiques in hip environment was extremely chal- most recent quarter would have breakfast sandwiches in some stores.) neighborhoods like Wicker Park and Lincoln lenging, all other facets of our been $39 million, or 27 cents. Regardless of whether anyone wants to read Park, but larger retailers with Chicago presences business were very well con- Earnings per share outpaced ana- “the Reds” (and then someday graduate to their continue to wait and see. Target Corp.’s Marshall trolled,” said chief executive offi- lysts’ predictions by a penny. parent papers), the bigger question for now is Field’s flagship store has yet to buy an ad, nor has cer Marty Hanaka in a statement. Sales for the period grew 3.5 whether they can convince any companies to buy Chicago’s Saks Fifth Avenue store. And spot “We maintained our gross profit percent to $1.13 billion from ads in them. The conventional wisdom about checks of both papers reveal that on any given margin as a percent of sales at $1.09 billion but comps de- newspaper readers is that they’re old, and thus day, fashion ads can be entirely absent (while last year’s 26.8 percent level and creased 2.5 percent on a con- undesirable. According to the University of riverboat gambling is distressingly regular). were able to reduce selling, gen- stant currency basis. Chicago’s General Social Survey in 2000, only 19.5 They haven’t had much luck with the single- eral and administrative expenses Matthew Serra, ceo, said in a percent of those ages 21 to 25 read a newspaper. brand stores, either. The Spanish sportswear re- by $3.8 million, thereby also main- statement, “We are somewhat The other 79.5 percent aren’t exactly the audience tailer Custo Barcelona, which opened its first and taining last year’s expense ratio more confident in our ability to in- that Sean John, for example, wants to reach. still only U.S. store in Chicago this spring, has es- at 26.1 percent of sales.” crease our future quarter-over- But Red Eye’s average reader, a Tribune chewed advertising in either paper so far in favor Gart also had a tough quarter, quarter earnings per share, and spokeswoman claimed, is 31 years old with a me- of national magazines. “However, we plan to watch as sagging sales led to smaller we currently expect our second dian income of $63,000 per year, according to both as they grow, paying particular attention to profits. For the three months quarter 2003 net income from con- Gallup poll data the company commissioned. Red each paper’s circulation and editorial as well as ended May 3, the Denver-based tinuing operations to meet or ex- Streak editors said their reader is younger and the brands who advertise,” said co-founder Custo retailer said earnings declined ceed the current analysts’ consen- therefore less affluent. Both papers average 40 to Dalmau in an e-mail. “But we would not have se- 11.8 percent to $2.3 million, or 18 sus estimate of $0.24 per share.” 60 pages each day, with about 20 to 25 ads daily. lected Chicago for our store if we didn’t feel that a Another problem both papers face is that they young, affluent audience existed in the city.” One Price Working On Court OKs Harrods’ WSJ Suit Financial Aid Package By Samantha Conti Deals & Deal Makers column. the High Court judge ruled that The headline was “The Enron of his court did indeed have juris- NEW YORK — One Price Clothing three fiscal years and had a defi- LONDON — Harrods has been Britain?” The story said, “If diction over the article despite Stores, a chain of off-price appar- ciency in working capital as of given the go-ahead by the High Harrods…ever goes public, in- the fact that it had originally been el and accessories specialty retail Feb. 1, 2003,” the 10-K read. Court here to proceed with a vestors would be wise to question published in the U.S. He has also stores, said it has entered into an “These factors, as well as the un- libel action against Dow Jones its every disclosure.” suggested that the two parties exclusive nonbinding letter of in- certain retail environment in for an article published in The Dow Jones maintains the Jour- reach an amicable settlement. tent with an unidentified party which the company operates, Wall Street Journal on April 5. nal was taking a tongue-in-cheek “Judge Eady’s decision is an for a “substantial” investment in have raised substantial doubt On March 31, Harrods issued tone, and making its own joke important result for all compa- the firm. about the company’s ability to a joke statement suggesting that about Harrods’ bogus statement. nies and individuals in Britain However, in a Form 10-K annu- continue as a going concern.” its chief, Mohamed Al Fayed, was Over the past year, Dow Jones who are defamed by overseas al report filed with the Securities One Price and its prospective planning an initial public offer- has been seeking to have Al publications which can be read and Exchange Commission, the investors have completed a por- ing for the Knightsbridge store. It Fayed’s libel action stayed on the on the Internet here,” said Duncan, S.C.-based firm, which tion of required due diligence was titled “Al Fayed Reveals Plan grounds that the case should be Harrods in a statement. “Harrods operates 581 stores, said an inde- and expect any equity investment to ‘Float’ Harrods” and the con- brought in the U.S. and not the is pleased that it will be able to pendent auditors’ report indicat- will close within the next 30 days. tact press person was named as U.K. The substantial circulation pursue its action, and will contin- ed there is mounting concern the In the year ended Feb. 1, One Loof Lirpa – or April Fool spelled of the paper, Dow Jones argued, ue to ensure that its name and firm may not be able to continue Price posted a net loss of $12.9 backwards. April Fool’s jokes are takes place in the U.S., even reputation are fully defended.” operations because of recurring million, or $4.30 a diluted share, a longstanding tradition in the though it is accessible to U.K. Dow Jones must file a de- losses and its negative working following a loss of $19.7 million, U.K., where national newspapers readers via the Internet. fense to the Harrods claim with- capital position. or $6.70, in 2001. Sales last year and television stations generally U.S. libel laws are generally in the next four weeks. In addition, the company were $331.8 million, 2.5 percent will include at least one joke much stricter than those in the A spokeswoman for Dow warned that if current sales below the 2001 mark, as same- story to celebrate the day. U.K., requiring plaintiffs to prove Jones said, “We’re disappointed trends continue in the second store sales fell 2 percent. Last On April 1, the Journal wrote a newspaper or magazine pub- that the judge reached this deci- quarter, historically its biggest year, women’s apparel account- an item for its World Watch col- lished a particular article with ac- sion in this case which has been source of sales and profits, it ed for 54 percent of sales; plus- umn based on the Harrods re- tual malice. U.K. courts generally going on for a year. We believe might fall out of compliance with size women’s wear, 24 percent; lease, and followed it up a day apply a looser set of proofs, which this illustrates why the court certain covenants in its loan fa- children’s apparel and women’s later with a correction. is why many celebrities sue for should take a serious look at this cility with its primary lender. accessories, 10 percent each, On April 5, the newspaper re- libel in British courts. kind of forum shopping by libel “The company has incurred and other categories, 2 percent. ferred to the Harrods item in its However, in the Al Fayed case, plaintiffs.” operating losses for the past — Jennifer Weitzman 6 Racing Form BELMONT, New York — Derek who? These days, New York’s favorite sports hero is a guy named Funny Cide. And though he may be a WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 27, 2003 WWD, TUESDAY, named Funny Cide. And though he may be a gelding, he’s stud enough to make women want to turn out for the big race on June 7, the Belmont Stakes, done up in their flirtiest, girliest best. On a rainy afternoon last week, WWD auditioned some festive, floaty dresses at Belmont Park. Here, Triple Crown hopeful Funny Cide’s nearest and dearest — Jackson Knowlton, managing director of Sackatoga Stables; trainer Barclay Tagg and assistant trainer Robin Smullen — were engaged in some test runs of their own, which, of course, were not of the fashion kind, as jockey Jose Santos has his outfit all set: maroon and silver silks with a diamond motif. But ladies who will be on hand cheering for the jockey and his horse can choose from a range of graceful florals — each one ready for the winner’s circle.

Nicole Miller’s silk dress with lace bands, left, and Arayal’s bias silk satin dress. Helen Caminski ribbon-band hat, right. Underwood hat. Underwood Patricia Jacobs shoes; silk dress.Marc floral Laundry’s Coach boots. from A.B.S. Silk dress Schwartz. by Allen Wayne Clark’sfloral silk chiffondress.

Eric Javitzhat. PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN; MODELS: EMILY WEISS/NY MODELS, SCHYNAIDER/ELITE; HAIR BY CHRYSTOPH MARTEN FOR VIDAL SASSOON; MAKEUP BY MIZU FOR REAL COSMETICS/JUMP; FASHION ASSISTANT: KATHERINE NIEROTH; STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN AND BROOKE MAGNAGHI 2003 27, MAY TUESDAY, WWD, 7 8 Ready-to-Wear Report Rena Lange

WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 27, 2003 WWD, TUESDAY, Takes the Gold By Joshua Greene NEW YORK — Coco Chanel started Chanel and Cristobal Balenciaga started Balenciaga, so the natural assumption would be that Rena Lange started Rena Lange. While that would make the company’s history easier to tell, the truth is there has never been a Rena Lange at the Munich-based house, which is celebrating its 50th an- niversary this year with several fresh additions to its business, including new stores in Frankfurt and Moscow, a capsule collection based on vintage designs and made-to- order dresses out of its Munich flagship. The name Lange actually stems from Martha Lange, a rather intriguing character who, in 1916, was sent by her wealthy lover to the southern German city of Munich to open a lingerie shop. Meanwhile, he remained hundreds of miles away to the north in Bremen. As if opening a lingerie shop in the middle of World War I wasn’t hard enough, Lange had no head for business and closed up shop after six months. Though it was the fall of Martha Lange — no one heard from her afterward — a woman named Henriette Günthert took over the shop, which marks the official start of the Günthert family’s rule over the brand, which today spans three generations over a period of 87 years. The boutique, known at the time as M. Lange & Co., continued to sell lingerie and prospered under Henriette Günthert’s care for nearly a quarter of a century until it was demolished in 1939 by a bombing in the first few months of World War II. It remained closed for more than a decade, but in 1951, Henriette Günthert and her niece, Herta Günthert — who died last year in Clockwise from Munich at age 101 — reopened the above: Rena Lange Chief shop at a new location in the Palais Designer James Waldron, Moy on Briennerstrasse, Munich’s Rena Lange USA President high-end shopping street, which the Tracy Welch and President company still uses today as its flagship. Daniel Günthert. In 1953, just two years after re- opening, Herta Günthert and her husband Johann were involved in a car accident. Johann was killed in the crash and Herta was seriously injured. Since Henriette was growing old, the family handed over control of the shop to Peter Günthert, Herta’s and Johann’s 17-year-old son. He added made-to-order evening gowns as well as day- wear that year — the 50-year milestone the company is celebrating this year — which became immensely popular with Munich’s upper crust. For the next five years, he grew the store’s reputation by staging high-profile fashion events for Munich’s elite. “People were so enthusiastic that I had to surpass myself with each new season,” Peter Günthert said in a statement. “At one show we dyed poodles in the same colors as the bikinis worn by the models. I was told the dye would come out with the first shower of rain, but as it turned out, the owners had to go around for weeks with pink and turquoise colored dogs.” Using the highest quality materials including Lesage embroidery, Italian fabrics and Scottish tweeds, the made-to-order apparel began outshining lingerie. Deciding apparel was where he wanted to take the business, Peter Günthert stopped producing lingerie, renamed the store Salon Lange & Co. and, on April 8, 1958, showed his first full collection of made-to-order clothing. Four years later, Günthert met a young designer named Renate Frick, who had studied fashion design and technical design in Paris and moved to Munich to work for another German fashion house. The pair were married in 1963 and Renate joined the family business. As the Seventies approached and labor costs required to keep a couture house in business increased — Salon Lange employed hundreds of seamstresses in its heyday — the business transitioned into high-end ready-to-wear, which the Güntherts sold at their company-owned stores and began wholesaling. In 1982, the couple staged their first rtw show at the Scala di Milano in Milan and the line became known simply as Lange. In the Eighties, the brand began exporting to Japan and the United States, where it sold to stores including Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue. Clockwise from top left: Rena Lange’s fall campaign was shot by Arthur Elgort; a look from the In 1990, the American ski boot company Lange asserted its exclusive rights to the name capsule collection featuring lingerie and corset details; an illustrated ad from fall 2002; Austrian and took legal action against the Güntherts, so Peter Günthert, in a tribute to his wife actress Senta Berger wearing Lange in Paris in the 1960s; a petticoat by M. Lange & Co., 1955; Renate, renamed the brand Rena Lange. Five years later, Rena Lange USA Inc. was estab- the original M. Lange & Co. logo that’s featured in the capsule collection today, and the matching lished with a showroom on Fifth Avenue here with the goal of increasing U.S. distribution. poodle show, May 1955. The brand now sells to more than 30 specialty stores in the U.S. in addition to Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus nationally, representing about 20 percent of global To further celebrate its 50 years in the apparel business this year, the company sales. Bergdorf Goodman, however, dropped the line this year. Today the wholesale founded the Rena Lange Charitable Foundation in the U.S., which benefits six chari- business generates about $60 million worldwide with an additional $15 million with ties for women and children in need. A portion of proceeds of the capsule collection its retail division, which is run as a separate company. will benefit the charity, as well as sales of a 50th-anniversary T-shirt. There are seven Rena Lange stores in Germany, five in Japan, two in the U.S. and “We will open our first freestanding store in Moscow starting with the fall collection,” several others, making for a total of about 18 worldwide. said Daniel Günthert in a recent interview. “We started offering made-to-order dresses Last year, Peter and Renate Günthert handed over control of the company to their out of our Munich boutique three months ago. Those dresses range in price from $7,000 34-year-old son, Daniel, who had worked for his parents since 1996 and represents the to $20,000 and will be one-of-a-kind. It’s been very popular and could extend to the U.S.” family’s third-generation leader of the firm. The previous year, Irish-born designer Rena Lange also enlisted Arthur Elgort to shoot its fall campaign at Phillips de James Waldron joined the company with the effort of injecting some much-needed Pury & Luxembourg in its new Chelsea location, a modern twist for the brand with youth into the brand’s identity. the space’s concrete floors and stark white walls. The limited-edition pieces in the fall collection retail between $1,500 and $3,000 “In the past, we have shot the campaign in places with aristocratic atmospheres and were designed to showcase the company’s roots in the lingerie business, accord- like castles,” said Günthert. “But we wanted to showcase the freshness and modernity ing to Waldron, who researched the company’s archives to create the 12-piece group. of the brand going forward. We just didn’t want it so heavy. The clothes are still clas- It references corsetry, features the brand’s original M. Lange & Co. logo and will offer sic, but they’re also very modern. Women want different items in their wardrobes, corset tops for evening and other lingerie-inspired details on suits and dresses, cover- more highlights. Our newer customers are younger and they tend to go for highlight ing the cocktail end of the collection. pieces. We have a core customer all over the world but we’re also trying to evolve.” 9 Jacobs’ Plan: Building on ‘Hip’ To Be A $1B Brand TUESDAY,WWD, 2003 27, MAY

Continued from page 2 Kong; three Marc by Marc stores in “Why should fashion be barricaded by Taiwan along with a newly-opened col- a price point?” Aronsson asked. “We lection store there; and three in-store know it’s a huge potential opportunity for boutiques in Korea. us and that it’s something that would be His gardenia-influenced Marc Jacobs considered right in its own time. The fragrance for women has inspired an off- Marc by Marc line is growing at the rate spring, Marc, and will also pave away for of 60 percent a year, with sell-throughs a Marc by Marc Jacobs fragrance launch- off the charts. ing in early 2004. The Jacobs women’s “When you look at a jeans potential and scent reportedly generated $17.6 million one that would be more accessible, one can in retail sales last year, while the men’s imagine what pulled in $2.7 million. an enormous There is no question that Jacobs has a potential that major influence on the industry, with would be and everyone from Jones New York, Sag one wishes to be Harbor and Zara looking to the designer very thoughtful for inspiration. that the timing “I’ve seen so many knockoffs [of my is correct.” clothes] — and I’m not patting myself on Aronsson the back,” Jacobs said. “There are so said however many places that produce inexpensive Jacobs and clothes and our line is copied instantly. Duffy decide to They’re all over Europe and America focus the line, and we’re basically doing work for them. it’s destined to If there’s that big of an audience [for be a home run. this look], why shouldn’t we be provid- “People are ing the material — since we’re provid- trying to be like ing it anyway?” Marc and he’s Jacobs discounted the common indus- There are so many places that produce inexpensive “clothes and our line is copied instantly….If there’s that big of an audience, why shouldn’t we be providing the material — since we’re providing it anyway? — Marc Jacobs” hot and a trendsetter,” he said. “Marc try notion that a diffusion concept would Jacobs’ business as a whole could easily take away from the prestige of a design- be a $1 billion brand in five years. We’re er collection. sitting on a powder keg of opportunity.” “I’m really into it and I don’t think it A look from Marc Jacobs’ fall runway show (at left) and a Marc by Marc Jacobs runway look. Sales at Marc Jacobs have been esti- would negate anything. What we’ve mated at more than $50 million through found was the customer who wears the thought doing a better-priced line was a when a deal might come about, but more its collection business, the Marc by Marc designer line also wears the [secondary good idea. about finding the perfect candidate for line and retail operations. The Marc by line] Marc by Marc, and it kind of had an “We hope we’d find our customer who the job. Marc line is in approximately 200 doors, appeal on its own. So why would [this would find stuff in this [price] range,” “It’s not so much about the nationality with selected distribution in department new line] be any different? Jacobs said. “Robert and I have always as it is the absolute best and right candi- and specialty retailers. “If we could do another range of cloth- kind of taken this approach. We don’t real- date, and it might mean different arrange- The company has been on an aggres- ing, with the approach being the same, ly know what it’s going to evolve into and ments, depending on where [the company] sive retail expansion, and is currently and the integrity being the same, why not? that has worked for us in every case. Of is and how production translates into scouting locations in the U.K., France Of course, we’d have to keep in mind that course, we’ll have to come up with a way price in the location of the point of sale,” and Italy. There are approximately 30 we’d have to work with certain fabrics, but to define it. We’re sort of open to growing he said. “There are several choices in the freestanding stores and shop-in-shops in it wouldn’t diminish who we are.” and having something take its shape.” world and one wants to be absolutely cer- Japan; two freestanding stores in Hong Jacobs said he and Duffy have long Aronsson said it’s not so much about tain that it is the best choice.” Morgan Stanley Countersues LVMH for $11.8M Continued from page one LVMH stands by the merits of its trumpeted Kent as a top-ranked that Kent trumpets YSL be- LVMH by stating in a report last research and in the media. case, but had no comment on the analyst admired by her peers cause its part of Gucci Group, September that a war in Iraq Morgan Stanley is Gucci’s long- Morgan Stanley defense, saying and superiors. It noted that while Fendi is belittled because would lessen the likelihood of time financial advisor. its legal team needs to study the Kent covers seven luxury firms it belongs to LVMH. its DFS chain reaching break- Arguing that Kent’s com- documents tabled Monday. and oversaw more than 400 pub- On Monday, Morgan Stanley even. In its defense, Morgan ments on LVMH were “com- However, sources close to the lished reports on the sector pointed out that LVMH only Stanley cites Arnault as quoted pletely justified,” Morgan French group said it views the from 1999 to 2002. owned 25.5 percent of Fendi at in WWD. In disclosing first- Stanley’s defense quotes defense as weak, since it But the crux of the defense the time of the article, com- half earnings at an analysts’ Arnault as agreeing with her on stopped short of accusing LVMH is that LVMH constructed its pared to 84.1 percent today, tak- conference last September, such topics as the impact of yen of any false declarations. As re- case by cherry-picking Kent’s ing exception to LVMH’s de- Arnault said: “If there’s a war, weakness and the Iraqi conflict ported, LVMH already claimed comments from only a “hand- scription of Fendi as “an LVMH airports and tourism will on the luxury sector. a victory last month when a ful” of her reports and press ar- Group company.” The defense screech to a halt.” But the investment bank also magistrate denied a Morgan ticles, mostly from April 2001 team also pointed out that the Citing another example of disagrees sharply with LVMH, Stanley request to have its oppo- and September 2002. Further- two unrelated observations how Kent and LVMH allegedly accusing it of “truncating and nent clarify certain evidence. more, Morgan Stanley charged were separated by 10 para- saw eye-to-eye, Morgan Stanley manipulating” Kent’s writing to Lawyers for Morgan Stanley LVMH with quoting Kent out of graphs in the original article, notes that the then-chief execu- construct its case. filed its defense and counter- context. not juxtaposed as in the writ. tive of Donna Karan, Pino Also on Monday, Morgan claim with the court during a At the briefing, Morgan But in a case where both Brusone, agreed with Kent that Stanley filed a counterclaim brief hearing and exchange with Stanley cited nine instances sides seem prepared to debate the LVMH-owned company was with the court seeking $11.8 mil- LVMH counsel. The court set where LVMH misconstrued every letter, even LVMH’s punc- having problems. LVMH com- lion, converted from euros at Sept. 15 as the date for the luxu- Kent’s opinions, made “illogical” tuation is taken to task, with plained that Kent told the Italian current exchange, for damages ry group to respond, part of a allegations or actually agreed Morgan Stanley pointing out newspaper La Repubblica that caused by proceedings it consid- long process of submissions and with the investment bank. where its opponent underlined “purchases like the Donna ers “abusive.” Legal experts had rebuttals that could drag the For example, LVMH’s origi- or put in boldface certain words Karan brand appear to be inte- been expecting a higher amount. case into next year. nal writ, filed last October, cites in the writ for emphasis. grating badly.” But the invest- But Morgan Stanley character- None of the documents an article in an Italian newspa- The most surprising element ment bank notes that Brusone ized the LVMH demand as “ex- tabled Monday were made pub- per from April 2001 in which of Morgan Stanley’s defense is told the Wall Street Journal orbitant and without precedent,” lic, but Morgan Stanley organ- Kent is quoted as saying Fendi how it uses LVMH’s own words Europe a few months earlier while describing its amount as ized a press briefing to outline lacks strong management and against it. that: “We have to suffer in the be- “justified in all the circum- its defense. design, while Yves Saint In the writ, LVMH infers that ginning….[We] will close stores, stances of the case.” As legal experts expected, Laurent is on a fast track to Kent attempted to persuade in- cut back production and restruc- An LVMH spokesman said Morgan Stanley’s legal team profitability. The implication is vestors to buy Gucci stock over ture the business.” 10 Te x t i l e & Tr a d e Re p o r t Home Runway Kenya’s Apparel Ambitions

By Scott Malone NEW YORK — “You don’t put a flyweight and a heavyweight in the ring and say, ‘Let’s have a fair

WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 27, 2003 WWD, TUESDAY, fight.’” Mukhisa Kituyi, Kenya’s minister for trade and industry, turned to this boxing metaphor when he tried to describe the competitive threat his coun- try and other African nations will be staring down at the end of 2004, if nothing is done to amend cur- rent trade packages. Since the African Growth & Opportunity Act took effect in 2000, Kenya has seen tremendous growth in its apparel-manufacturing industry, NEW YORK — Talk about the best of both worlds. Home and fashion, which so which today employs about 30,000 people and last often influence each other, met last week as Beacon Hill introduced Artisans, year saw its shipments of textiles and apparel to a new couture-quality collection of home fabrics. Created by Erin Murphy, the the U.S. shoot up 94.6 percent to $125.9 million. firm’s design vice president, the line featured a variety of intricate looks, Along with the rest of the world, Kenya is brac- including cutwork, appliqués, raffia and ribbons, beadwork and French knots. ing for Dec. 31, 2004, when the 146 nations of the But it wasn’t just the home front that took notice — New York-based ap- World Trade Organization will drop quotas on tex- parel designer Naeem Khan and Harold Koda, curator of the Metropolitan tiles and apparel. But, with its sub-Saharan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute, cohosted the event, which was held at African neighbors, Kenya is also bracing for an- The National Academy of Design. One piece caught Koda’s eye — a supple other deadline, Sept. 30, 2004, when the provision brown leather look that was cut and stitched together by hand to resemble of AGOA that allows lesser-developed African na- chain mail. The material, shown above, was displayed next to a vintage Paco tions to use fabric made in countries outside of Rabanne chain mail dress, a juxtaposition that wasn’t lost on Koda. “So the beneficiary region, including China, in gar- often people associate craftlike fabrics with being crude or naïve,” he said. ments that still qualify to enter the U.S. free of du- “But just because something is artisanal doesn’t mean it’s unsophisticated ties and quotas. and this is a perfect example. It’s both modern and contemporary — perfect During a stop in New York last week, Kituyi for the fashion industry.” Designers, take note. said that confluence of events could be “very — Daniela Gilbert harmful” to the economy of Kenya, as well as to other African nations. While he said he applauded and shared the goal of free trade, he said that if leaders in The Fiber Price Sheet Washington and Geneva want the changes in African economies that have come about since On the last Tuesday of each month, WWD publishes the current, AGOA’s passage to hold, something has to give. You have to balance the month-ago and year-ago fiber prices. Prices listed reflect the cost “We were always aware that AGOA is not like the sugar quotas that gave us 50 years of preferred “ of one pound of fiber. market access,” he said. “We always saw AGOA principle of trade not just as an opportunity to access a market, but Price on Price on Price on also as a wake-up call to come to speed in a com- liberalization with the Fiber 5/23/03 4/29/03 5/28/02 petitive global liberalized economy. We are seeing AGOA as giving us an opportunity to quickly work principles of developing Cotton 58.80 cents 59.81 cents N/A* on capacity and competitiveness, quality respon- capacity to adequately benefit Wool $2.28 $2.30 $2.29 siveness to market requirements.” That’s why Kenya is lobbying the Bush admin- Polyester staple 52 cents 52 cents 51 cents istration to extend the third-party fabric provision from trade liberalization as an Polyester filament 65 cents 65 cents 66 cents of AGOA through 2008 and lending its weight to a new effort in the WTO to extend the quota phase- international agenda. September Synthetic PPI 106.6 106.3 105.2 out process. — Mukhisa Kituyi, Kenyan trade” minister “You have to balance the principle of trade lib- The current cotton price is the April average on fiber being delivered to Southeastern region mills, eralization with the principles of developing ca- according to Agricultural Marketing Services/USDA. The wool price is based on the average price pacity to adequately benefit from trade liberaliza- be cut and sewn for the U.S. market in 2005 if the for the week ended May 23 of 11 thicknesses of fiber, ranging from 15 microns to 30 microns, tion as an international agenda,” he explained. quotas are dropped. Sewing plants are much according to The Woolmark Co. Information on polyester pricing is provided by the consult- The effects of the apparel industry’s growth on more mobile than textile mills, which raises the ing firm DeWitt & Co. The synthetic-fiber producer index, or PPI, is compiled by the Bureau of Kenya’s economy have been pronounced, Kituyi danger that the investments that have flowed into Labor Statistics and reflects the overall change in all synthetic-fiber prices. It is not a price in said. Since AGOA took effect, its employment base Kenya over the past two years could just as quick- dollars but a measurement in how prices have changed since 1982, which had a PPI of 100. has almost quadrupled to 30,000 from 8,000. Kituyi ly flow out. * Since the USDA did not track cotton prices between the months of April and May in also said the industry is expecting its exports to That conundrum leaves Kituyi and others to 2002, last year’s cotton price was unavailable. almost double this year to about $250 million. consider if they will lose access to an industry To many American executives, that number that’s proved a power economic development tool sounds like small potatoes — Liz Claiborne Inc., for many countries. for instance, sold more merchandise than that “We are not an industrial country and we need each month last year. But in Kenya, on average to start on this path,” said Jaswinder Bedi, a complete retail solutions since 1979 each person with a full-time formal job supports Kenyan industry executive and head of the Kenya about nine other people, which means the indus- Association of Manufacturers, who was traveling try is supporting about 300,000 Kenyans by with Kituyi. “We cannot reinvent the wheel. We Kituyi’s estimate. Kenya’s population is 31.1 mil- need to start with textiles and apparel. The rest of lion, according to U.S. government data. this world has already used that tool to their ad- “This is the fastest-growing source of formal vantage. To tell us, ‘In two years time you have got employment in the entire economy,” he said, to be ready for the quota-free regime,’ it’s very un- adding that Kenya’s nascent manufacturing in- fair to Africa in general.” driven by pride dustry contributes 14 percent of the country’s Kituyi said the U.S. and other governments $9.8 billion gross domestic product. participating in the WTO should consider what Kituyi said his eventual goal is for Kenya to their ultimate goals are for the trade regime. WAREHOUSING & DISTRIBUTION - Over 1,000,000 sq. ft. of create an entirely vertical textile and apparel in- He pointed out that African nations have suf- public storage facilities in NY-NJ, JFK, California, Florida. dustry, going all the way from growing the cotton fered economically for social instability. Extended LOCAL TRUCKING - Serving NY-NJ, LA basin & Miami piers, to finishing garments. To that end, earlier on his social unrest after a disputed presidential elec- rail facilities & major air cargo terminals. trip through the U.S. he made stops in Alabama tion last year in Madagascar caused many apparel LINEHAUL TRUCKING - Expedited linehaul, team & single service; and Georgia to inquire about acquiring idle cot- companies to pull out, causing its exports to drop Dry Van & GOH equipped trailers; 48 state authority. ton ginning equipment. by almost half. But he said that vertical extension of the in- Kituyi said that creating an economically sta- AIR-OCEAN IMPORT TRANSPORTATION SERVICES dustry “cannot be completed” before 2005, and ble Africa by allowing it to develop a garment in- Comprehensive freight forwarding solutions. that’s why he wants the third-party provision ex- dustry, will enable the continent to handle many RETAIL FLOOR-READY PROGRAMS - GOH Specialists; tended. of the crises that have in recent decades caused it pick-pack; label application; ticketing-marking; bar coding. That measure is not uniformly supported in to seek foreign aid, like the current problems Africa, though. Particularly in the more-devel- caused by the wide spread of AIDS. oped nations of South Africa and Mauritius, gov- “A lot of the chaos that you’ve seen in many of ernment officials and industry executives have the African countries have been associated with un- FMI INTERNATIONAL, INC. argued that encouraging the importation of fab- certainties of an economic nature, competition for Corporate: 800 Federal Blvd., Carteret, NJ 07008 Tel 732-750-9000 ric is discouraging new investment in textile limited resources,” he said. “And what trade does is Sales 718-656-0511 www.fmiint.com [email protected] plants. to add to the capacity for governments to create Importers have acknowledged that they will modern societies, to create a transition and capaci- see little reason to ship Asian fabric to Africa to ty for resolving conflict without destroying society.” Go Global.

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To advertise please call Ralph Erardy, SVP Group Publisher at 212-630-4589, or your WWD sales representative. WWDMediaWorldwide® 12 Financial White House Inc. Files Sears Expecting Weekly Stock Index 52-Week Sales Amt At Least Five Offers High Low P/E (00’s) Last Change With SEC for $50M IPO Department Stores For Credit Business 5.28 3.37 Bon-Ton Stores 6.0 781 4.18 0.08 NEW YORK — The White House SG Cowen and RBC Capital 31.20 12.32 Dillard Dept. 10.7 57271 13.05 -1.11 Inc. expects to join the ranks of Markets. The preliminary NEW YORK — Sears, Roebuck 43.15 23.51 Federated 10.3 90291 30.94 -0.05

WD, TUESDAY, MAY 27, 2003 WD, TUESDAY, publicly held specialty retailers prospectus didn’t disclose the & Co. was expected to receive 3.58 0.94 Gottschalk's - 310 1.41 -0.02 W shortly. date of the IPO, the number of by last Friday at least five pre- 25.55 14.07 J.C. Penney 14.6 120553 16.67 -0.66 The Glen Burnie, Md.-based shares or their price. That infor- liminary offers to buy its credit 36.18 17.81 May Dept. Stores 12.3 96886 20.75 0.12 retailer of black-and-white ap- mation is expected in later filings. card portfolio for up to $6 bil- parel for women, last week filed White House currently oper- lion, according to a Reuters re- 15.45 6.66 Saks 19.8 49706 9.04 0.24 a Form S-1 registration state- ates 96 stores averaging 1,457 port citing anonymous sources 59.90 18.25 Sears 6.3 227637 29.41 2.11 ment with the Securities and square feet and said in its filing close to Sears. 42.21 24.90 Target18.5 171992 33.06 -0.99 Exchange Commission saying it it sees the potential for a 400- Reuters said the expected 4.35 1.48 Value City 252.0 2151 2.50 -0.15 intends to raise $50 million in an unit chain. This year, 22 stores bidders are Citigroup Inc., 58.88 43.72 Wal-Mart28.4 397237 52.00 -0.92 General Electric Co., Royal The White House has applied for a Bank of Scotland Group Plc, HSBC Holdings Plc and J.P. Softline Retailers Nasdaq listing under the symbol WHBK. Morgan Chase & Co. Last March, 31.90 17.05 Ann Taylor 13.0 37681 23.03 0.03 Sears said it would sell all or 1.82 0.55 Bluefly - 50595 1.41 0.50 The IPO will be handled by William Blair & part of its credit operation. 23.50 15.40 Burlington Coat 9.8 2988 15.85 -0.35 Citigroup and General Elec- 8.67 2.70 Charming Shoppes 12.0 20090 4.18 -0.06 Co., SG Cowen and RBC Capital Markets. tric are said to be frontrun- ners, according to industry 24.49 13.02 Chico’s FAS 26.1 91420 20.99 0.84 initial public offering. It plans to are planned, with between 25 sources. 17.50 11.06 Dress Barn 14.9 6621 13.09 -0.29 use $11.8 million of the net pro- and 30 slated for 2004. In fiscal Sears executives could not be 16.00 8.20 Foot Locker 11.3 90283 12.61 0.90 ceeds to make required distribu- 2002, it generated $3.9 million reached for comment Monday. 18.03 8.35 Gap 23.2 335632 16.50 0.12 tions to common stockholders in net income, about half of it 76.90 44.00 Kohl's 27.2 204532 51.22 -2.18 and another $1.7 million to fund attributable to common share- 21.84 10.88 Limited Brands 14.7 111798 13.80 0.25 capital expenditures and pay ex- holders, on a sales increase of Biggest Percentage Changes penses incurred in connection 35.2 percent to $67 million. For Week Ending May 23 38.83 23.75 Neiman Marcus Group 12.2 3640 32.65 -0.10 with the planned relocation of Comparable-store sales have Gainers Close Change 25.74 15.00 Nordstrom 16.7 73015 17.34 1.18 its headquarters and distribu- averaged 11.5 percent over the Bluefly 1.41 54.95 24.45 10.81 Pacific Sunwear 19.1 124469 20.78 -0.65 tion center. The rest of the last three years and rose 16.3 Warnaco 11.68 10.71 47.77 31.85 Ross Stores 15.4 74247 40.08 0.59 money is expected to go toward percent last year. Cone Mills 1.62 8.00 8.40 5.66 Syms - 1071 7.30 -0.33 capital expenditures and gener- Most of its merchandise is Sears 29.41 7.73 39.64 20.59 Talbots 13.4 15246 26.95 0.44 al corporate purposes, including marketed under its White House- Foot Locker 12.61 7.69 the opening of new stores and Black Market private brand. Losers Close Change 21.48 15.30 TJX 17.4 159187 17.64 -0.46 working capital. Aeropostale was the last ap- Tropical Sptswr 6.09 -11.09 The White House has applied parel specialty retailer to go Mossimo 3.60 -10.89 Vendors for a Nasdaq listing under the through an IPO, raising $225 Dillard Dept. 13.05 -7.84 54.91 41.55 Alberto Culver 19.7 13506 50.38 -0.46 symbol WHBK. The IPO will be million in March 2002. Guess 4.00 -7.83 59.97 43.49 Avon 26.4 59493 59.39 1.47 handled by William Blair & Co., — Jennifer Weitzman Value City 2.50 -5.66 22.66 13.65 Cherokee 10.1 355 16.43 0.72 47.30 17.19 Coach 30.0 41825 44.69 -0.56 48.76 27.46 Columbia Sptswr 17.1 24360 46.06 0.30 38.30 25.20 Estee Lauder 36.8 47351 34.77 1.03 24.61 14.99 Fossil 15.9 8188 20.50 -0.23 Now Available Online 8.49 4.49 G-III 101.2 86 6.00 -0.07 99.35 82.53 Gucci 35.0 5058 97.22 -0.38 7.31 3.30 Guess - 3375 4.00 -0.34 40.60 25.61 Jones Apparel 11.0 80131 28.15 -0.14 32.50 19.70 Kellwood 72.8 13574 28.64 0.89 29.95 16.00 Kenneth Cole 14.6 8687 19.99 -0.20 34.43 23.55 Liz Claiborne 14.2 44897 32.32 -1.33 13.00 3.49 Mossimo 4.5 2492 3.60 -0.44 25.15 14.60 Movado 13.7 511 22.67 -0.37 14.04 8.06 Nautica 16.0 4733 9.91 0.18 39.32 19.50 Oxford 13.1 4992 36.95 0.05 16.46 10.80 Phillips-Van Heusen 14.9 3966 13.26 0.14 27.75 16.49 Polo Ralph Lauren 12.9 31660 25.24 1.73 18.25 8.63 Quiksilver 19.2 26559 16.40 -0.26 6.17 1.85 Revlon - 1586 2.99 -0.06 20.10 13.14 Russell Corp. 12.9 3357 19.48 0.23 6.50 3.28 Tarrant Apparel - 291 3.54 -0.14 16.50 5.61 Tommy Hilfiger 9.9 20144 7.78 -0.14 26.84 4.14 Tropical Sptswr - 5930 6.09 -0.76 43.80 31.50 VF Corp. 10.7 20752 36.37 -0.73 14.10 8.80 Warnaco - 24914 11.68 1.13

Textiles 4.00 1.21 Cone Mills 5.3 1015 1.62 0.12 6.15 1.75 Delta Woodside 12.2 285 3.17 0.12 0.10 0.03 Galey & Lord - 1180 0.03 0.00 8.00 2.25 Guilford Mills - 447 5.74 0.24 11.47 4.25 Unifi 191.7 5761 5.96 0.16 WWDStock Market Index for Week Ending May 23

Log on now to subscribe Composite: 102.61 Broadline Stores: 102.49 Softline Stores: 97.45

-1.07 -1.62 -0.59

Vendors: 105.71 Textiles: 107.08 Index base of 100 is .com keyed to closing prices WWD of Dec. 31, 2002. 0.20 3.49 13 The company cited effective cost control measures and low TRADE THAIS: Thai export clothing manufacturers will hold a TUESDAY,WWD, 2003 27, MAY expenses for its growth and also said that it had increased its trade exhibition in Tokyo and then in Osaka in coming weeks stock of raw materials in anticipation of a price rise for Chinese under the sponsorship of the Thai Department of Export cotton. The price of cotton by Mainland producers has been the Promotion to further penetrate the Japanese market. Some ASIA WATCH subject of much speculation over the last two weeks. It rose to 30 Thai manufacturers will show a range of Thai products 13,600 yuan earlier this month, a 22.6 percent hike. using Thai cotton and Thai silk that will include hand-woven Other textile producers that have seen their stocks rise on clothes, scarves and shawls, according to the Thai Trade BIG BOY: A giant department store group that will comprise Hong Kong’s Hang Seng Index include Texwinca Holdings, Center, Osaka. The exhibition will take place in Tokyo on the interests of Seibu and Sogo will emerge in June. which rose over 13 percent to 83 cents a share; smaller Thursday and Friday, moving to Osaka June 3-4. Millennium Retailing Inc., a holding company, will be producer Victory City International Holdings, which saw its In a collaborative project known as T3 Thai Tex Trend, established June 1 and will control the 21-store Seibu stock price increase more than 68 percent, and Tungtex Italian designer Marcello Massarente is working with about 20 Department Stores Ltd. and the 11-store Sogo Co., Shigeaki (Holdings), which rose 7.7 percent. Thai manufacturers participating in the program to develop Wada, president of Sogo, who will head the group, announced Analysts said that the phasing out of U.S. garment quotas new textiles, the Osaka-based Thai agency said.— T.F. in Tokyo last week. The new group will have combined sales by 2005 and the trend of American companies moving of more than $8.8 billion, making it Japan’s second-largest production to China have led to big growth opportunities for TAKING OFF: “Astro Boy” of animation fame will be revived department store group next to Takashimaya. Hong Kong textile companies. — Constance Haisma-Kwok this fall in handkerchiefs and mini-towels to be marketed Seibu, which employs 6,200 people, posted sales of this summer by Kawabe Co. A Kawabe spokesman said a $5.05 billion last year. while Sogo, with 4,900 employees, COVIELLO’S COURSE: American designer James Coviello is variety of designs targeting all ages will go on sale in July. reported sales of $3.8 billion. entering the Japanese market through Itokin Co., which will Prices will range from $2.50 to $8.— T.F. Wada said the two department store chains under the introduce his line of women’s wear and accessories for fall- holding company will share the same broad policy and winter this year. The collection will include blouses, jackets, CHINA’S LATEST CHAPTER: Nomura Trading Co. is finalizing an strategy on merchandise, clientele, personnel and dresses and coats and will be both produced in Japan under agreement to establish a joint-venture company in China to information system, but will operate separately. The license and directly imported, Itokin said. Accessory items produce and market jeans. A Nomura spokesman said the combination is expected to generate synergy between the two will include hats, bags and scarves. Sales are expected to be venture, to be named Ninbo Youngor Denim Jeans Wear Co., chains, Wada said. — Tsukasa Furukawa 80 percent in licensed production and 20 percent in is expected to be formed later this month with initial capital imports. For items to be produced here, prices will range of $2 million. Nomura will hold a 15 percent stake and the UNLUCKY 13: Sales of department stores in Japan fell yet from $133 to $217 for blouses and $408 to $658 for coats. remainder will be financed by Ninbo-based Younger Group again last month, declining 5 percent to $5.4 billion in April Itokin, which initially plans to sell the line through seven and the Hong Kong investment firm of Suntex Ltd. The compared with a year ago, according to the Japan Department outlets, is targeting $29 million in sales in the third year of executive said production is expected to be 1.5 million jeans Stores Association. It was the 13th month in a row of decline operation through 30 retail outlets, it is reported. Coviello was in the first year of operation, with half sold in China through in total sales at the nation’s 290 department stores. Apparel in Tokyo earlier this month to take a closer look at the Youngor and the remainder exported to Japan, Europe, the sales, which made up 42.2 percent of sales, dropped 5.1 Japanese fashion apparel market. — T.F. U.S. and other overseas markets. — T.F. percent to $2.3 billion dollars from a year ago. Sales of women’s wear dropped 5 percent to $1.5 billion, while men’s MORE PRIVACY: A set of five privacy protection bills was approved SMOOTH ENTRY: Doko Shoji Co., a silk clothing manufacturer wear dropped 6.2 percent to $4.2 million dollars. Low this week at a full session of the Upper House and became law based in Kyoto, is moving into China to produce temperatures and rain in the month contributed to the on May 23. Three of the five bills place tighter restrictions on embroidered, hand-stitched and other types of hand-made declines. All the figures were on a same-store basis and were handling personal information by private companies, public silk and silk-blend women’s wear. A Doko spokesman said converted from the yen at current exchange. — Koji Hirano administrators and independent organizations. The remaining two the company is establishing a wholly owned subsidiary, bills call for a council to handle complaints of abuse of personal Xuridong Fashion Co., in Nantong, China, for the project. RIDING HIGH: Hong Kong’s textile shares have soared over the last information and for working out related bills. However, “there will Production will include shirts, blouses, pants and skirts two weeks as investors dump property and travel-related shares. be no major damage to the direct marketing business here,” said using not only pure Chinese silk but silk-cotton, silk-linen Strong earnings reports coupled with potential growth in a spokesperson for the Japan Direct Marketing Association. “Of and other blends, and pig suede, the executive said. Output international markets has led to record highs for some stocks, course, direct marketers have to be more careful when they make in the first year of operation is expected to be 120,000 including cotton fabric producer Fountain Set (Holdings.) Its use of the lists of consumers, but they can buy the lists and use pieces, he added. price rose 11 percent a day after it announced a 90 percent rise them just like before.” When first presented to the Diet in March Production will be sold to Japanese clients, including in interim profits and has risen more than 50 percent since the 2001, the legislation was met with howls of protest from the department stores and specialty stores. The company, the beginning of the year. As of May 21, its stock price was 85 cents. public and the press. Total annual sales through direct marketing executive said, is interested but has no immediate plans at Fountain Set, which has a capacity of 6.6 million kilograms in Japan were about $21.4 billion. — K.H. this time to export to the U.S. or Europe. — T.F. per month, is one of the world’s largest cotton textile producers. WHO Lifts Jones, Ralph Dispute Industry developments Remains Undecided Hong Kong Continued from page 2 substantial amount. All three that this is an improper inter- businesses generate about $1 bil- Restriction ...... pretation, and the expiration of lion in sales, and by regaining NEW YORK — Major U.S. im- the Ralph license does not them, Polo would gain more top- porters plan to keep a close eye .... cause the Lauren license to end. line growth. on the SARS situation in Hong Career development The long-term Polo Jeans con- As reported, Roger Farah, Kong and China’s Guangdong tract is not part of the dispute. president and chief operating of- province this week, following Color Theory How to Style, Plan & Merchandise The Polo Jeans license with ficer, said during a conference Friday’s announcement from the an Apparel Line Fashion Events Planning Fabrication: Jones expires on Dec. 31, 2005. call with Wall Street analysts last World Health Organization that it According to a Securities and week that Polo is in ongoing dis- had lifted its recommendation to Everything You Need to Know CAD Basics Primavision Exchange Commission filing in cussions with Jones regarding postpone nonessential travel to How to Produce Quality Knit Garments Fashion April 2001, the license may be the Lauren by Ralph Lauren li- those areas...... renewed by Jones in five-year cense. “We are continuing to While executives described Photography Music and Fashion increments for up to 25 addi- work for what we hope will be the development as positive, tional years if certain targets the right solution for the cus- they said they’d take a few more days to decide whether to re- is connecting the dots with scind corporate orders against We have no further update on the traveling to those two sites, “ which have seen some of the professional training programs. licensing dispute. As soon as we do highest rates of SARS infections. have further information, we’ll be out “We’ll review our travel poli- HOT TOPICS cies…next week,” Peter McGrath, The latest trends, the newest thinking, the next big thing—- with a press release to Wall Street. president of Plano, Tex.-based these are the focuses of the Hot Topics courses at FIT’s Center J.C. Penney Purchasing Co., said for Professional Studies. Short-term, high-impact, and cost- ” in a Friday phone interview. — Anita Britt, Jones Apparel Group effective, these courses, taught by industry leaders, will put “That will give us an additional you on the fast track to success. are met. Renewal of the Polo tomers and the brand.” several days to ensure that there Jeans license after 2010, howev- While not mentioning the li- are no new cases.” er, requires a one-time payment censes held by Jones, Farah told Liz Claiborne Inc. has also ENTERPRISE CENTER Becoming an entrepreneur takes more than just talent; it by Jones of $25 million or, at analysts the company believes in postponed making a decision. takes leadership and vision. The Enterprise Center offers artists Jones’ option, a transfer of a 20 the “direct ownership of those “We are going to maintain our and designers specialized classes in business and technology percent interest in its Polo businesses whose expertise falls conservative posture and assess that will bring their ideas to life—-and the marketplace. Jeans business to Polo Ralph within the scope of our core the situation in a week or so,” Lauren, with no fees required competence….A continued focus Bob Zane, senior vice president for subsequent renewals. Polo on acquiring those licenses that of manufacturing, sourcing, dis- For more details: Call 1-800-FIT-IS-NYC x58 also has the option, exercisable make sense to our business will tribution and logistics, said or email: [email protected] on or before June 1, 2010, to pur- be an important part of our com- through a spokeswoman Friday. www.fitnyc.edu/wwd chase the Polo Jeans Co. busi- pany’s future growth strategy.” Most major U.S. importers ness at the end of 2010, subject Dennis Rosenberg, analyst at have clamped down on employee IT’S NOT TOO LATE TO REGISTER FOR SUMMER to certain conditions. Credit Suisse First Boston, in a travel to the region, though as Sources believe Lauren wants research note update, wrote last the WHO and U.S. Center for to have that business under its week, “We believe that discussions Disease Control have declared School of Continuing & Professional Studies wing as well, although if Polo may be centered on buying back outbreaks in countries including Fashion Institute of Technology STATE UNIVERSITY OF NEW YORK SEVENTH AVE. AT 27 ST., NEW YORK CITY wants to buy back the Polo Jeans the Polo Jeans license as a part of Vietnam and Singapore to be | business, it would have to pay a a comprehensive resolution.” under control. 14 WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 27, 2003 14-59 St/Mad-9Ave.;1500-10000SqFt&up Bryant PkDuplex1100,2000,4500FT. BWAY 7THAVESIDE STREETS GARMENT CENTERREALESTATE Office/Showrm-Great Deals! 20 FtCeilings-GreatWindows/Views BERNSTEIN R.E.-largest#NYC listings Allan Gallawa We buymen’s,women’s&children’s Search-www.manhattanoffices.com Cash ForRetailStock&Closeouts. rmGadCnrl a resume Fax to: Central) Grand minutes 45 from (Only seeks CT. Greenwich, Firm f Accessories Kids’ Prime ManhattanJon212-268-8043 TOP DOLLAR FOR SALES DIRECTOR Brian [email protected] nlvn,ms k.slspro. sales mkt. mass un-loving, apparel. Largequantitieswanted. Under MarketSublets-NOFEE! Showrooms &Lofts RETURNS,IR’S OR SoHo-Sublet Penthouse2000FT Paul, Mike,Larr Rib-Lycra-Jersey-Fleece T:800-996-4469 F:800-540-2784 Great ’New’Office SpaceAvail For ALLoffice&loftSPACES NoLotTooBigorSmall. Three by201-861-0033 212-292-4319 ADAMS &CO. 212-679-5500 WALT ADAMSINC APPAREL CLOSEOUTS Call CLOTHES-OUT: bu 212-947-5500 Mass Market CLOSEOUTS 500-20,000 SQ.FT *ALL Off-Price* y (937) 898-2975 @waltadams.com

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Inc. Swank, w W 973- Call Ram- etc. by attitude, 564-9236. JaralFashionAgenc CDC Positive Plenty, page. ECI, Blue, Eva a Min be sketching, skills. 2 flat Must illustration good & presentation with Excel. player and team Proficient Photoshop team. in design organizational assist to strong skills with motivated individual highly seeks Co. Sportswear nec- back market Sweater trim essary. sketching of knowledge Good organized & exp. skills yrs. seeks 2 co w/min. asst. dress priced Mod. E-mail EDI skills. industry, organizational resume andsalaryto: garment communication and excellent the candidates knowledge, experience Ideal related in years 2-3 data have specialists. must and reps Company, entry service Kellwood customer of seeks div. Halmode, Customer Service/DataEntry Roseland, Ave, accounting Attn: NJ 07068orFax:973-830-4165. Livingston to: 85 resume HR-DM, Send other royalty computer required. Strong skills needed. analysis, and as functions and statement reporting, financial preparation staff, req. accounting o yrs exp. supervision factoring include 12-15 and Responsibilities with import Controller exp; of a NYC, seeking in mer- located is women’s distributor accessories / dollar private chandiser and million licensed 25 Growing, logos create Urban to in ability hand / the good and a Brands Photo-shop have Must Freehand, req. Illustrator, 20. min w/ cand 5 yrsexpindesign.Boy/Girl;sizesInf.- seeks Co Outerwear Major Other [email protected] * * * W A Graphic Open$ Technical $50K Designers Immed. history salary & Fax letter to: 718-726-7953 loc. cover QUEENS 5 resume, ASTORIA Min exp. customers. & yrs Communi- factories control. with spec cate prod importer & fitting sptswr ladies seeks growing Fast exp. on based Salary Graphi some plus. Please faxresumeinconfto:212-921-4653 development. alternative must, a sample a ability design for branded CAD travel co. for sports sportswear/outerwear Designer active Boys dedicated, j creative, are thinker independent an w you and resourceful and If line previe prepare line and buymeetings. Ideal for also material presentation will ideas. trend person and merchandise * Designers Immed. eeis ra potnt.Fax include opportunity. Must salar 212-268-8189. to: great resume benefits, oosadpten o men’s ne seeking for market must retail Candidate patterns the the brand. silhouettes, shop label and for materials, private and of colors responsible selection approval development, design, Designer working skills computer have team. our Must join to Designer experienced AENT $60K TECHNICAL-Better Gds$40’s PDM-ADMIN $50’s MATERNITY JR’s/GIRLS $65K APPAREL STAFFING,LTD. embroidery. SalaryplusbenefitsBOE. [email protected] Fax Resumeto212-564-9507Attn;d55 Tricia Spec Tech-Activewear-L.I.loc Spec Tech-WovenGoods-Sptswr...To$35 Prod’n Coord-Bilingual-Sptswrmfr Prod’n Coord-BetterDressmfr Prod Mgr-PrivateLabelexpSptswr HEAD Dsgnr-Jr.ActivewearMfr.... att etyu uthave Must you. meet to want e sst-boys $35K t lutao n htso.Great Photoshop. and Illustrator ith y DESIGNER-BACKPACKS urnl ekamnsbelt men’s a seek currently e seeks co. import established ell OVENS $80K Design Assistant DESIGNER-BELTS Alan Wolf-Since1971 DESIGN ASSISTANT rs exprequired.Fax:646-435-7412 [email protected] Designer-Fit Tech [email protected] Careers inFashion or faxresumeto(212)302-1161 y DESIGNER requirements. hnson" "hands CONTROLLER _ [email protected]. EOE 212-719-5609 ARTIST eh C ealflats, detail QC, tech: rudapu.Fax plus. a ground ....To $40K ...... $65K+ ...To y .. $BOE .... $BOE $50K $50K w w K c f / People etc.Call973-564-9236JaralAgc A A (Bi-LingualChineseNecessary) Call (212)643-8090orfax:643-8127(agc nsil a euew aayrq to: req. salary supervise w/ based resume 212-583-1715 orcall212-583-1700. Fax Salary Will skill. alterations. on and Boutique. fittings Avenue Couture Madison for fitter Experienced Call 212-986-7329orFax212-986-7708 A hang Must & sweaters. cut fashion in w full exp. + Current sewn $100K to Designer •Fit Model34-25-34/35,size6 •Entry-Level -Sales/Prod. •Admin. Asst.(3+yrs.exp.)$35-65K •PR Manager/Director$40-95K •Sales Executive-Jr’s$85K •Production -(Walmart)$40-75K •Tech. Designers$35-75K •Designers -(Women’s)$40-95K yt u et utb emlead- team a be Must dept. a er. FaxResto 212-564-9507Attn:d55 run to abili- in ty Strong natl req. ability Photoshop Freehand, stong Illustrator, several 20. goods. a - Urban/Non-Branded Inf demonstrate design/mfg ranges Must Size yrs Boy/Girl; We 5 brands. min w/ cand exp. seeks Co Outerwear (Men’sBottomsorJuniors) (Women’s,Children’s,andJuniors) *SALES...... $60-100 * *PRODUCTION...... $30-100K (Women’sdresses/swimwear/sportswear) *DESIGNERS...... $50-100K (Boy’swear/Activewear/Urbanwear) *DESIGNERS (3)...... $60-100K (Men’s,Women’s,andChildren’s) *DESIGN ASSOCIATES...... $45-70K (AccessoriesorGiftItems) * expinPhotoshop,Illustrator,orU4IA) (Oppty’sinmen’s/women’s/urban *CAD DESIGNER...... $40-60K * *TEXTILE SALESAE...... $to60K (AssistDir.ofRetailOperations) *ADMIN COORDINATOR...... $45-50K (Luxurygoods/handbags) * character profi- be licensed cient inPhotoshop&Illustrator. Must sleepwear. Jr. for & children artist rienced expe- seeks Inc., International Leeward fax: 212-643-2826.Nocallsplease.EOE. o knowl Illustrator, Photoshop&U4ia. working extensive have o Must development the w for responsible be embroideries prints, of development the in Candidate our w Division. for Kids Artist Claiborne Artist/CAD Liz Graphic searching a for mfr childrenswear Leading to opportunity Excellent w at- Great Europe. mosphere! work. to showroom and travel ongoing runway include to responsibilities needed. willing Other Model be Foot 7 Must Size based NYC Designers (jeans)...... 95-100K o il ein ebr hu6x. thru bodies newborn sketched designs girls mock for and appliques *TECHNICAL DESIGNERS...... $40-80 3)Sales ExecAssist-JCPexp4)SpecTech GROMWELL GROUP Other designpositionsavailable,temp&per 1)Designers &Assist:Boy-Girl-Jr2)Artists E-mail resumeto: Email resume:[email protected] MGR/DIRECTOR OFWHOLESALE. RETAIL ANALYST/PLANNER PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT. PRODUCTION/TECH DESIGN....$40-60 Temp andFreelancepositionsalsoavailable. (10 posinWovens,Cut&SewKnits,Denim) Call 973-564-9236JaralFashionAgc E-mail: [email protected] CAD -Childrenswear "ON THEMARKS" ssoc Design(youngboys2-18) yMcee yr,Rmae Free Rampage, Byers, Michele, My / vn or rsnain projects. presentations board & ovens s ein(oes ...... 35-40K sst Design(womens) sst Design(textiles)...... 35-40K l okaogsd h r Designer Sr. the side along work ill ork directlywithdesigner! GREAT JOBSAVAILABLE! infant/toddler. Careeroppt’y.MAC Foot Modelwanted! Email: [email protected] DONALD JPLINER GRAPHIC ARTIST Please call212-972-9300ore-mail: Designer to$60KCurrentexp.in GRAPHIC ARTIST CAREER OPPORTUNITIES: Fax: 212-499-9164Attn:Chris Head Designer DESIGN THIS proficient. 110W34thst. [email protected] or Fax: FITTER 212-869-3938 [email protected] ...... 60-65K .... $60-100 $25-32K .... $50-80K $85K+ Will y y . y K m K ) K K f f s , LNES...... 45-75K PLANNERS SALES ASSIST...... 35-40K including relocationexpenses. We offerexcellentemployeebenefits critical thinkingandanalyticalskills. an independentthinkerwithexcellent of ladiesapparel,selfmotivatedand inventory flowandmerchandisemix to supportgoalsbyplanningsales, computer skills,detailoriented,willing practices, andretailprocedures,good familiar withawidevarietyofconcepts, have priorpurchasing candidate mustbewillingtotravel, for retailandcatalog.Thesuccessful Ladies ApparelBuyer/Merchandiser Tulsa, OKisacceptingresumesfor Drysdales, a22yearoldcompanyin communi- excellent cator. Bi-lingualaplus.(Word/Excel) be Must with factories. communications to orders, and purchase projections, ability LC, cus- documents, logistics, toms with shipping, ocean arrange others. individual hands-on direct and a Detailed coordinate with to related approach experience or yrs luggage 5+ in with Leader seeks Team Company a Jersey New Secaucus, neto ocmlto.Imports. From completion. sweaters. to Sourcing. Call 973-564-9236JaralAgcy fashion full Current inception in $110-140K. exp. Mgr Production over- oriented w/ Detail and strongcomputerskills amust. up factories. follow garment and seas ordering yrs 1-2 monitor materials, 350 Scheduling. mills. 5th Ave/34thSt.Call973-564-9236Agcy fabric raw and factories in exp. purchasing Current $40-45K. Coord Production experience. Excel, year (Word, 1 necessary Min Wonderful Opportunity! skills Outlook). comput- Basic East. lab er Far be- and samples, liaison NY assistant tween of as acting and tracking packs, dips, & MUST. product ordering include a re- Office sponsibilities selling. tracking sup- quotes, Link plier entering include Retail Responsibilities Wal-Mart Production $50,000 exp. years 3 req’d. PleaseFaxorE-mailresumeto: & 401K degree College and package. Insurance delivery. negotiate and factories; price Asian major and with to licensors work pro products; organized new well develop and Co. exp’d. Accessory seeks and Rainwear NJ Central Call etc. sales, account markdowns, 973-564-9236. JaralFashionAgency of profitability, Analysis stores for dept. exp. required. to Current selling importer l00K. apparel to Snr. Planner F/T System, Lectra position, Brooklynlocation. on Experienced PROJECT MANAGER(Catalogue).. PRODUCTION COORD resume skills, Fax sample clear factories. follow-up and referencesto: computer overseas posses with w/effective comm, initial Must self-motivated, tracking. ordering, written corrections, for and color PDM requests, design, tech packages cre- in line-involves merchandiser and ating with work to Sleepwear uals individ- motivated seeks Co Men’s Underwear Established Call 212-986-7329orFax212-986-7708 MERCH/PROD ASSTS Production Coordinator 732-873-5100 /[email protected] Ladies’ ApparelBuyer/ PROD’N ASSIST$35-40K Assist w/eitherAccessoryorIntimates Product Development Fax ResumeAttnCarla201-894-1186 "ON THEMARKS" KARLYN FASHIONRECRUITERS Two lgimportersseekexp’dProd’n Production Assistant Director ofHumanResourcesat PATTERNMAKER/ & ImportManager Import/Production Please forwardyourresumeto: or [email protected] Opptys available,temp&perm [email protected] or [email protected] Fax resumeto:(918)664-1431 Background A+ImmedHire! Please emailallresumeswith Fax resumeto: Call Sionat(718)382-1777 [email protected] Merchandiser DRYSDALES salary requirementsto MARKERS Fax: 212-382-1916 Manager Rick Hughes Coordinator Nice Firm 30K 212 8687575 212-997-7996 ...... 35-60K experience, 50-75K ln,sye arc&ti tracking trim & fabric style, plans, ln,style, plans, ie n ntmpoutdelivery. working product including req’d knowl ofAS400&MSWordExcel. on-tim skills Office sample and maintaining vendors; lines with cation costing, vendor Sourcing handle Responsibilities: & in maintain our exp production. yrs 3 in detail-oriented sweater min have work Should Division. motivated, to highly individual seeking is a mfr childrenswear Leading PRODUCT MANAGER Responsibilities: industry. Sourcing in apparel maintain our exp yrs 3 in detail-oriented the min have work Should Division. motivated, to highly individual seeking is a mfr childrenswear Leading rlmngrpsto nisMadison its in position A high-end, manager gen- in eral asst. for experience at management retail with years luxury individual 2 an least seeking is Bally RETAIL discount. employee generous Please forwardyourresumeto: a training and invaluable salary, benefits, competitive unrivaled a you’l and with talents rewarded be priceless skills. your us Bring press and Occasional traveltobranchesrequired. thinking as essential, strategic communication, oral/written is experience. excellent PR proficiency are related Office and of BA/BS years MS a 7 have least at must you qualify, To merchandising initiatives, pressmaterialsandlogistics. individual visual for promotions, guidance store maintenance and and calendars of creation the Promotions, including Merchandise program Traveling PR of the development managing and customer programs; retail through generating sales products, history; and Tiffany creating services of in awareness store agencies media branch PR and guiding leadership include in- 7 bilities and responsi- Related stores branches. domestic ternational support 50 pro- service nearly manage for and will strategies you grams, position, this In our at us join to you New YorkPublicRelationsDepartment. invite a We makes importantly, difference. that most And and innovation. ideas embrace new expertise, even to your an listen value create We to success. need greater you provid resources we the expertise, global with zation A Public Relations W esnlsau eot;diycommuni- daily reports; status seasonal opttv opnain/benefits / package offered.Faxresumeto: compensation Competitive proven as well as sales leadershipabilities. skills, cus- service and tomer development client excellent n okn nw fA40&MS & AS400 of daily knowl includ- working req’d skills prod- ing reports; Office on-tim delivery. and main- uct lines vendors; sample taining status with communication seasonal TIFFANY &CO. 727 FifthAvenue,NewYork,NY10022 Sweater ProductManager E-mail resume:[email protected] E-mail resume:[email protected] Manager, PublicRelations fax: (212)643-2826.Nocallsplease.EOE. fax: (212)643-2826.Nocallsplease.EOE. eu tr.Cniae uthave must Candidates store. venue organi- dollar billion a Co., & Tiffany t ord &Excel. PRODUCT MANAGER Tiffany &Co.,HumanResources North &SouthAmerica An EqualOpportunityEmployer SOURCING DIVISION SOURCING DIVISION The impactandexposureyou’ll encounter hereisPRICELESS E-mail: [email protected] Assistant Store BALLY New York,NY adevno costing, vendor handle & Fax: 212-230-6666 arc&ti rcig and tracking, trim & fabric Manager (212) 751-9126 and , line line e l 15 J. McLaughlin: In Praise of Preppy TUESDAY,WWD, 2003 27, MAY NEW YORK — The brothers Mc- and some people think it’s ab- He got the idea for a tunic made Laughlin, Jay and Kevin, have surd,” said Kevin McLaughlin, of pieced-together silk scarves broad Irish faces, thick, sandy- who designs the clothing while from one he bought at a couture colored hair and dress in the Jay oversees merchandising and sale at Doyle’s New York. country club style that’s popular store design. “These styles are The company has a thriving in upscale enclaves such as not challenging. We don’t attempt accessories business, which in- Greenwich, Conn. They’re actual- to make any major fashion state- cludes patterned jacquard belts ly from Queens, but no matter. ments. We simply reinterpret.” and canvas and leather hand- Their style was predetermined by Of course, J. McLaughlin bags embroidered with every- DNA. Their mother, an antiques stocks all the staples, including thing from snails, monkeys and dealer, was preppy to the hilt and Oxford shirts, khaki pants, polo palm trees to martini glasses. her sons took up the cause. shirts, toggle coats and cashmere Prices in the store range from J. McLaughlin has built its business around a devotion to preppy clothing. So much so, that in 1977, they sweaters. But to say the stores $30 for ribbon belts to $1,000 for opened J. McLaughlin at 1343 are simply purveyors of tradition- shearling coats. Knits are $95 to open in Essex, Conn., in June. cashmere is blended in China. Third Avenue. Today, the 19-unit al American sportswear would be $295; pants and skirts, $125 to The company has identified While some are to the manor chain has cornered the market telling just part of the story. $245, and dresses, $85 to $325. more than 300 locations where born, the preppy lifestyle was on Ivy League chic, with stores Kevin tweaks familiar styles The company has consciously residents have a high household aspirational for the McLaugh- in every major bastion of old just enough to make them inter- avoided malls, planting itself on income and the WASPy aesthetic lins, at least in the beginning. money that comes to mind. esting. For example, he puts pink main streets in places such as that would support a J. McLaugh- Now they have all the trappings, The company, which celebrat- lamb suede on the front of a cash- Greenwich and Westport, Conn., lin store. “There’s no question including houses with good ad- ed its 25th year in business in mere sweater and a pleated rib- East Hampton and Locust Val- that Grosse Point, Mich., and dresses and a 1920s cabin cruis- September, has grown with little bon design on a cardigan. He cuts ley, N.Y., Princeton, N.J., and Chevy Chase, Md., could use a er yacht and 1918 sailboat. fanfare. Sales are expected to hit a voile skirt with an asymmetri- Nantucket, Mass. store,” Siegler said. Kevin even owns Island $20 million this year, with a 20 cal hem and embroiders shorts “The style of clothing has But with just three new stores restaurant on Madison Avenue percent increase planned for with lobsters or sailboats. such an implied message that it slated for next year, the company and 93rd Street, one block south 2004, said Stephen Siegler, presi- “Without exception, things runs counter to a mall location,” seems to be in no hurry to reach of a company store. At Island, he dent and chief executive officer. come back, but they never reap- McLaughlin said. “A downtown the 300 mark. “We make money tries to do for food what J. The stores, which average 1,000 pear in exactly the same form,” village location is much more at every store and open new McLaughlin does for clothes. It’s square feet, do about $800 a foot he said. “They require a new sil- compatible with our style.” stores when we have the money,” classic American fare. “We do a in sales. houette or new color palette.” There’s no store prototype, ei- McLaughlin said. fabulous lobster roll and a terrif- Let others raise and lower McLaughlin consults archival ther. Many units are housed in The business is completely ic strawberry shortcake,” he said, hemlines and chase trends like photos and vintage clothing for old colonial homes and filled vertical with factories in the the but admitted, “We’re much more lemmings — J. McLaughlin is all ideas. An intricately handbeaded with an eclectic mix of hand- Far East, Europe and Brooklyn, knowledgeable about clothing about familiarity. sweater was inspired by an an- painted furniture and antiques. for quick response and wovens. than we are about food.”

“Some people love this stuff tique sweater he saw in a book. A 20th unit is scheduled to Shirts are made in Europe and — Sharon Edelson IANNACCONE THOMAS BY PHOTO

Sales Acct Mgr To $150K ++. Current Management/Sales exp. in jeans or shirtings. Private label Leading Fashion Accessories and Novelty Company WINTER ACCESSORIES retail stores. Must hang w/ tarrant, has opportunities available in NYC showroom. Leading NYC based manufacturer/im- Kellwood, etc. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy Retail Planner/Analyst porter seeks experienced Sales Manager/ Sales - Exp. in fashion accessories/novelty/ home products/ Merchandiser with working relation- sunglasses/plush toys market in dept and specialty stores/ mass Leading childrenswear mfr has an excellent oppty for an indiv who can ships & contacts with major chains & SALES EXEC (2) $100K+ market, good follow-up, communication and computer skills. plan and analyze retailers’ businesses dept. stores. Must have Glove/Hat/Scarf background. Please Fax/E-mail resumes Knit & Sweaters. (1) Missy (1)Juniors and interpret information to maximize FASHION NETWORK 201-503-1060/Fax 1070 Product/Production Mgrs. - Hats, hosiery, fabric, footwear, sales. Will be resp for collecting data 212-967-2025 / [email protected] plush/soft toys, sleepwear, sunglasses. Workw/ design & sales from accounts, developing annual door w/ understanding of development, spec/tech, production. Exp. do- sales & turn projections, and creating JEANS CO. SALES EXECUTIVE mestic & overseas, from conception thru delivery. retail plans & summary reports for Seeking highly motivated individual management. Some travel may be Merchandiser/ with active contacts in junior knit, Product Ass’t. - Good follow-up, communication, organizational, req’d. Excellent salary & benefits. Account Executive activewear, & sweater. Excellent salary Email resume: [email protected] or ACCOUNT & benefits. Qualified candidate should computer & admin. skills, spec/ fitting a +. Detail oriented. 1-2 fax: 212-643-2826. No calls please. EOE. Minimum 5 years experience w/diaper yrs. exp. Will consider recent grad. bag background. Must have contacts forward a resume to 212-997-0060. EXECUTIVE w/major retailers. Some travel Graphic Artists-Package, Product, Novelty, Plush Toy Design, 1- Exciting opportunity in Men’s required. Email resumes to: Sales $$ open. Current exp in selling [email protected] or fax to: 732-345-0984 branded sweaters to specialty or dept. 2 yrs exp, entry-level ok. MAC, Illustrator & Photoshop skills req. Jeans. Responsibilities in- stores or mid-tier stores. Midown co. Fax resume: (201) 553-0967 w/ sal. req. SEWING INSTRUCTION clude coordination and man- Call 973-564-9236. Jaral Fashion Agcy agement of sales activities Retail WRITER for major accounts and SALES SENIOR PRODUCT The McCall Pattern Company seeks an Merchandiser/ Suit mfr. seeks F/T inside and outside Energized. MANAGER individual with good writing and home- specialty stores. Must have Salespeople. Current account list a TUMI, Inc., the market leader in sewing skills to write step-by-step in- 3-5 years apparel experi- Account Executive plus. Salary plus Commission high-end luggage and business acces- structions for our sewing guide. Full- Minimum 5 years experience w/better And growing. time position with good benefits in- ence. Good communication ADMIN. ASST. sories, has an outstanding career and computer skills required. handbag background. Must have con- To assist in import/prod’n. Person opportunity for a Senior Product cluding summer hours. tacts w/major retailers. Some travel Aeropostale is a rapidly expanding Fax resume to 212-465-6991 or mail to: should be organized & detail oriented. retailer with a fresh approach to fashion. Manager at our corporate headquar- Email resume to: required. Email resumes to: Please fax resume to (212) 840-1161 ters in South Plainfield, NJ. The McCall Pattern Co, 11 Penn Plaza, [email protected] or fax to: 732-345-0984 Currently, we have the following NY, NY 10001. EOE humanresources@ opportunities available in our Corporate Within the parameters of the TUMI nautica.com SPORTSWEAR Office: brand, you will develop strategies to EOE SALESPERSON/MERCHANDISER grow specific product categories to Established, financially strong Dress increase sales and improve gross National Sales Manager Manufacturer seeking to develop Footwear margin. You will steward new prod- N.Y. based better Women’s Sportswear sportswear division, is looking for an ucts from development through Co. seeks an individual experienced at experienced Sportswear Salesperson/ Designer launch to ensure they are introduced Body Glove Swimwear managing both National Accounts and Merchandiser. Person must have timely with appropriate features, Management/Sales Opportunity Sales Reps. Send resume to: affiliations with major retailers and Qualified candidates must have 5+ Studio Coordinator Box#M 1073 discounters. Incredible opportunity for years of related experience, strong marketing support and adequate inven- Leading NYC based Swimwear Co. seeks tory to meet sales goals. You will Women’s fashion design house seeks experienced Sales Manager w/working c/o Fairchild Publications skilled individual. Fax resume, and presentation skills, and understanding talented studio coordinator with de- 7 West 34th Street, 4th Fl customer affiliations to (212) 594-8369 of production. A clear understanding review sales analyses to assess relationships and contacts with major performance trends and respond to sign skills, fitting experience & ability dept. and chain stores. Girls’ swimwear New York, NY 10001 Technical Design (2) 50-65K of our customers and lifestyle is to delegate & manage a team. Clear necessary. significant deviations in performance background a must. Fax/E-mail resume: Kids & womens. Knits/wovens. Comp. skills vs. plan. This position works closely communication skills and ability to 212-967-2025 / [email protected] Jennifer*Just Mgmt. * 800-544-5878 with the design, sourcing, product meet deadlines a must. Minimum of 5 [email protected] planning and sales teams, as well as years similar experience. Fax resume: Accessories Buyer senior management. attention Alexandra 212-869-7508 Designer to 80K & Men’s Buyer The successful candidate will have Missy, intimiates. Mod to better. very creative These challenging buying opportunities 8-12 years experience working in retail Jennifer*Just Mgmt. * 800-544-5878 RETAIL MERCHANDISE will expose individuals to the design merchandising or similar function [email protected] COORDINATOR and production process. To qualify, managing a product category. Must (New York/New Jersey Area) candidates must have a minimum of 3 have exceptional quantitative analytical Apparel Mfr is seeking motivated years applicable buying experience, skills and the ability to make qualitative self-starter to maximize retail sales. Re- bottom line accountability, possess assessments. Outstanding communica- sponsibilities include: presentation of initiative, motivation, and a keen fashion tion and presentation skills required, merchandise, interfacing w/ store man- ***APPAREL EMPLOYERS *** coupled with good diplomatic skills to TECHNICAL DESIGNER J. Mendel agement and educating sales associ- sense. Specific prior experience is a Experienced sales professional needed Do you need exp’d DESIGNERS, PRODUC- plus. gain cross-functional support for new ates. Travel required. TION, ACCOUNTING, TECHNICAL etc. staff? initiatives. Proficiency in Word, Excel, FREELANCE for our Aspen and New York stores. FAX OR MAIL RESUME- Attn: G.O. **CALL 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy.** Access required. PowerPoint and SAP Leading childrenswear mfr is seeking Fur experience a plus. 2275 E 37th Street We offer a competitive salary and Fax resume to (212) 244-5136. comprehensive benefits package that preferred. a freelance Technical Designer for 2-3 Los Angeles, CA 90058 includes a generous merchandise TUMI encourages individual growth in days per week. Provide spec development, 323-584-5955 NO PHONE CALLS discount, bonus opportunities, a casual pursuit of achieving corporate goals. fit analysis, on-line flat sketching, work environment and growth potential. Your commitment to the TUMI team pre-costing specs, organize accurate Please forward your resume, indicating packages, and provide tech/dvlpmnt will be recognized through a competi- support for design & merchandising Sales $100-120K ++. Current exp. in boys New York based, billingual (Mandarin) position of interest, to: tive compensation plan, including a Major Dress Co. sportswear selling to Wal-Mart or Target or jewelry/technical designer. Very crea- Aeropostale, 1372 Broadway, Suite 8W, team. Working knowl of fit, construc- comprehensive benefits package. tion, patterns, grading & computer Seeking experienced Salesperson with Federated or Mayco. or Mid-tier stores. tive mind w/excellent technical design New York, NY 10018 Please email resumes to: current working relationships/contacts West 33rd. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy56 skills specifically in silver & costume Fax: 646-485-5430 or email: skills a must. [email protected] or E-mail resume: [email protected] or with major dept. & chain stores. Please jewelry. Email: [email protected] [email protected] fax to (908) 756-8590. EOE Fax resume to: 212-869-0246 We are an equal opportunity employer M/F fax: (212) 643-2826. No calls please. EOE. Sales $100-150K++. Current exp in pri- Talented, experienced designer seeking vate label, young mens sportswear , Part-time or full-time position. Complete ramie, linen, cotten-based goods. knowledge of specing, sketching, forecast- Large chinese based vertical co. Call ing trend/colors and CAD design. Call or Aeropostale 973-564-9236. Jaral Fashion Agency E-mail: 914-665-6713 / [email protected] AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. ¨ Registered Service Mark/Trademark of Cotton Incorporated. © Cotton Incorporated, 2002. popular Denim outfit by Stephen Hardy for Squeeze. Fabric by cotton. by Fabric Squeeze. for Hardy Stephen by outfit Denim Cotton. The fabric of our lives. our of fabric The Cotton. ® www.cottoninc.com