2007Jhskier P01-13-A

Free

Remembering Doug Coombs

Resorts Wildlife Trail Maps Backcountry National Parks Beyond Skiing • CAMELBAK • TURTLE FUR • COLUMBIA • DA KINE • SIMPLE • DANSKO • MARKER • WIGWAM MARKER • DANSKO • SIMPLE • DA KINE • COLUMBIA • TURTLE FUR • CAMELBAK • SMITH • K2 • MARMOT • TGR • SALOMON • LANGE • LOOK • DYNASTAR • LEKI • BURTON • TEVA • ORTOVOX • ROSSIGNOL • NORDICA • SPY • FISCHER OBERMEYER THERMIC CARHARTT • SCOTT WINTERSTEIGER WOOLRICH ~ Experienced boot fitting & ski tuning ~ Gear for the entire family at Ranked #1 by Men’s Journal Jackson Hole’s most complete January 2005 - Best Bootfitters ski & snowboard outfitters ~ Rossignol demo center ~ Online ski and snowboard reservations www.wildernestsports.com

• • • A Complete WILDERNEST SPORTS Winter Store WILDERNEST SPORTS Open Daily 307-733-4297 Next to the Clock Tower in

Photo: Wade McKoy / Focus Productions Skier: Dave Swanwick Teton Village • EAGLE CREEK • SMART WOOL • SOREL • SPEEDO • OAKLEY • HELLY HANSEN • BOLLE • MAUI JIM • LIFE LINK • VASQUE • PEARL IZUMI •

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www.focusproductions. com 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 3 SKI • BIKE • BOARD • HIKE “The Locals’ Shop” SKIS, BOOTS, 520 W. BROADWAY & BINDINGS: OPEN DAILY Volkl • Rossignol 733-5335 • Head Technica On Broadway Marker • Salomon across from Bubba’s SNOWBOARDS: Burton • Arbor • Prior Nitro • Salomon • Vans CLOTHING: Obermeyer • Orage • Bonfire Photo: Wade McKoy / Focus Productions Skier: Jeff Leger McKoy / Focus Productions Skier: Jeff Photo: Wade Sierra Designs • Burton • Oakley www.hobacksports.com DEMOS ❆ RENTALSRENTALS ❆ REPAIR ❆ SKIS ❆ SNOWBOARDS ❆ OUTWEAR

My exit from life in the fast lane.

My Homewood.

Whether you are exploring Jackson for business or pleasure, you will love staying with us! At Homewood Suites by Hilton® in Jackson, just off the Town Square, you'll find two-room suites* with a gas fireplace, a fully equipped kitchen, robes, indoor pool, whirlpool and complimentary hot breakfast. Just visit homewoodsuites.com or call 1-800-CALL-HOME®. MAKE YOURSELF AT HOME.™ Visit Body & Soul Spa & Salon Inside Homewood Suites by Hilton 260 N. Millward St, Jackson, WY 83001 260 N. Millward St Group & Wedding Sales please Jackson, WY 83001 call 307-739-0808 ext 1101 307-739-0808 or email: [email protected] [email protected] jacksonwy.homewoodsuites.com

4 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 www.focusproductions. com

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AFG Jackson Ad.indd 1 10/31/06 10:12:38 AM CONTENTSCONTENTS FEATURES RESORTS 10 Photo Gallery 24 Jackson Hole 14 Wildlife and National Parks 32 Open Boundary Protocol 18 Activities Guide 34 New Tram Coming 20 Entertainment Guide 35 Terrain Park & Superpipe 38 Backcountry Skiing 36 The 100 Club 52 The Twilight Zone 44 Helicopter & Snowcat Skiing 59 Cinematographers 48 Snow King 64 Remembering Doug Coombs 56 Grand Targhee 70 Evolution of Extreme 60 White Pine 77 Competition Report 76 XC Ski Centers 80 The Ski Makers All photography by The Tram Builders 82 Wade McKoy or Bob Woodall, 84 Mushers & Sled Dogs unless otherwise credited. 88 Snowmobiling See the JH SKIER ONLINE 92 Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem at focusproductions.com 93 Surfing or jhskier.net MAPS & DIRECTORY 96 Map of Jackson Hole 97 Business Directory 100 Ski Area Maps 102 Town of Jackson Map

Publishers: Bob Woodall and Wade McKoy, d.b.a. Focus Productions, Inc.(FPI) Editors: Wade McKoy, Bob Woodall, Mike Calabrese Photo Editors: Eric Rohr, Wade McKoy, Bob Woodall Art Director & Ad Design: Janet Melvin Advertising Sales: Kyli Fox, FPI Office Manager: Eric Rohr

Copyright—2007 by Focus Productions, Inc. (FPI), P.O. Box 1930, Jackson, Wyoming 83001. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publisher. Contents: Jason Tattersall, How To Get a Copy: The JACKSON HOLE SKIER Teton Pass annual winter visitors’ guide is free when picked up at one of 160 distribution points throughout Cover: Jackson Hole. Receive one in the mail by sending Doug Coombs, $5 to Focus Productions Inc, P.O. Box 1930, Pepi’s Bench, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort Jackson, Wyoming 83001.

Are you ready for some SKIING? Want some deep pow? Some steep pow? Or to go free-falling?

Or maybe you’d prefer to ski some groomers and take a long lunch by the fire? It’s all good, as the saying goes, and here in Jackson Hole, “good” is as good as it gets.

While enjoying the good life, please remember to ski and snowboard safely. Stay in control. Know where you are and where you’re going. Don’t accidentally ski off a cliff. Thomas Diét, pictured here, actually meant to do that, but it’s surprisingly easy to do such a thing quite unexpectedly. And if you decide to venture out of bounds, please don’t follow others— or their tracks—thinking they will show you the way. Hire a guide instead. It might just make your day. Now let’s get this party started! Skier: Thomas Diét Teton Gravity Research Grand Targhee backcountry Lynsey Dyer; Rock Springs Canyon

12 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 Jeremy Jones / Teton Gravity Research; Once is Enough WinterWinter inin GrandGrand TetonTeton andand YellowstoneYellowstone

Wildlife takes refuge in our national parks

Early on a cold, still January morning I was slowly stepping awkwardly into my old-fashioned, “Extra Gros” [XL in Raynes-French] ski bindings when I sensed eyes watching me. Glancing about, I confirmed I was the only—the first, in fact—person at this trailhead on this morning. No one was sniggering at my garb or gear. Just the river transporting shards of ice, bare cot- tonwoods standing at attention, the Teton mountains pink with sunrise. No bird chatter. Nothing else. by Bert Raynes

Must be imagining... No! There! moose had been lying there, chewing her Lying only about 30 yards from me in a cud, waiting for the sun to moderate the willow-surrounded hollow, ears facing overnight -25°F chill. Now, looking more toward me, nose working the still air, carefully, I discovered her calf, almost eyes myopically searching in my general entirely hidden by its mother’s great direction, was a large cow moose. bulk. As I moved about to get a better I simply hadn’t noticed tracks of two view, the cow laid her ears back and moose leading toward my position, one appeared to have determined where I set much larger than the other. The cow was. It was apparent that she was dis- Boreal Owl in aspen tree

14 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 turbed and would soon stand and, perhaps, Winters are long run–probably away from me. My real concern was that I would stress her and her in Yellowstone calf as the depth of winter was upon us all. Sometimes even a little extra stress can and Grand Teton weaken and ultimately kill an animal whose energy resources are strained to the National parks vanishing point, particularly during harsh winter conditions. Moose, despite their and surrounding size, are exceedingly susceptible to stress. I slowly stepped out of my bindings, national forests— picked up my XC skis and poles and backed carefully away. I could just as handily go in another direction, and let four months long resting moose be. Winters are long in Yellowstone and to as many as six. Grand Teton National parks and surround- Pine Marten in spruce snag ing national forests–four months long to as Photography by Henry H. Holdsworth–Wild by Nature Gallery many as six. And that’s at the lower elevations; above tree line winter may last 11 months. Snowfields and glaciers never succumb entirely to summer. Strategies used by wild creatures to deal with winter vary. Perhaps the most noticeable one is migration. As winter approaches, moose, deer, and mountain sheep are prompted to leave higher-elevation mountains, forests, and meadows to make their way to selected, protected places where they can (or hope to) forage through relatively lighter snow cover and less-harsh winter conditions. continued Sunrise, moonset, Grand Teton National Park

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• Tripods Professional Film Processing CACHE PEARL All Nikon products include Nikon Inc. USA limited warranty. www.nikonusa.com ©2006 Nikon Inc. www.focusproductions. com 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 15 A large number of birds migrate, some species traveling only a few hundred miles, others many thousands of miles, perhaps to central South America. continued from page 15 Bears hibernate, dozing through most of winter under snow in dens. Many mammals hibernate for at least part of winter: ground squirrels sleep from mid August to April, marmots sleep almost as long. Using another strategy, pikas don’t hibernate but survive on stored vegetation. Pocket gophers remain active all year, living underground on roots and other vegetable matter

Photos, from top: Wintering bison plowing through snow for food, northern Tetons in back- ground; Wolf pack in Yellowstone National Park; Bull moose lip curl- ing during the fall rut.

16 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 close to the snow-to-ground interface. Forests, prairies, and sage steppes empty of many bird species whose primary food is insects, which become dormant or over-winter as eggs and so are not available except to the few specialized birds who can find them. Some bird species come down from high elevations in vertical migrations to survive on seeds of evergreens or plants. A large number of birds migrate, some species traveling only a few hundred miles, others many thousands of miles, perhaps to central South America. Fortunately for us, a satisfying number of wild

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Pine Grosbeak in fir tree creatures remain in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem to provide viewing excitement. The survival strategy employed by each species obviously works in the aggregate, otherwise that animal would have become extinct. These strategies evolved, however, before man was able to easily penetrate the places where those animals that do not hibernate nor migrate must inhabit while trying to make it through winters. Although survival strategies are good for a species, an individual animal can be overcome by a particular event–an unusually cold series of days and nights, an unsuc- cessful hunt, an injury, extra stress–and perish. Those of us on skis, on snowmobiles, in helicopters, on snowshoes, or in automobiles have the obli- gation to do the sort of thing I did when I intruded upon the resting moose: slip away and don’t become an inadvertent, mortal threat. You’ll enjoy your winter fun more, bolstered by an inner warmth. Please remember: when you complete your daily fun in the snow, you’ll have a full meal, a warm sheltered bed, and breakfast when you 20 W. Broadway awake. In the wild, creatures almost never have Downtown Jackson those luxuries. Enjoy wildlife but respect their survival strategies. Across from the Wort Hotel Bert Raynes writes a weekly column in the Jackson Est. 1973 Hole News & Guide. He has penned five publications cov- 307.733.6562 ering the birds and animals of Grand Teton and Yellowstone National parks.His latest book,Winter Wings, joins Valley So Sweet and Curmudgeon Chronicles in receiving well-deserved, wide acclaim. www.jollyjumbuckleathers.com www.focusproductions. com 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 17 IT’S NOT ALWAYS ABOUT SKIING

Elk Refuge hot lunch beside a fire crackling in a wood stove. These The only thing perhaps more breathtaking around outings are even more breathtaking on moonlit here than the Tetons is the wildlife that inhabits the sur- evenings! For more info. call 732-BOAT or go online at rounding valley.To take them both in–at the same time, www.woodboatours.com no less–climb aboard a horse-drawn sleigh and glide Grand Teton National Park offers free ranger-led gracefully through thousands of majestic elk wintering snowshoe hikes at 2 p.m. every day–except on the National Elk Refuge. Sleighs are run daily from Wednesdays–from late December to March, weather 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. by the same folks who provide food and conditions permitting. Snowshoes are provided, and fun at their Bar T Five chuckwagon show all sum- and the rangers touch briefly on the lore of snowshoe- mer. Adults pay $16; youngsters 6-12, $12; and tikes ing and the winter adaptation of plants and animals in under 5 pay nothing. Visitors can call 733-5386 or go the park. Groups cover the one-and-a-half miles along online at BarT5.com to reserve a seat on the sleigh. the river bottom in about two hours. Dress warmly, Or drop by the Greater Yellowstone Region Visitor Center on north Cache, right next to the elk refuge.And “The Cowboy Bar and the bring the camera! Dancers’ Workshop Country Snowshoeing Western Dance Program spon- AJ De Rosa’s Wooden Boat River Tours, already sor free instruction to anyone prized for its first-class summer packages, now showing up before the band embraces Jackson Hole winters with the same thought- hits the stage.” ful and personalized offerings. Wildlife Snowshoe Adventures, De Rosa’s newly launched one-of-a-kind using the layer system, and wear warm footwear. For the USA Hockey Association. Grab all the home action winter excursions, offer visitors exhilarating guided those who would prefer to wander around indoors on 28 Friday and Saturday nights at 8 p.m. in Snow walks through valley landscape brimming with Jackson instead of outdoors, the visitors’ center houses exhibits King’s Ice Arena/Center. $8 for adults and $3 for chil- Hole wildlife. After wending their way through winter on the natural history of the park. The snowshoe treks dren. Call 734-5300 or go online at jacksonhole- habitat harboring moose, deer, elk, and eagles, snow- leave from the Moose Visitors’ Center. No experience is moose.com. shoers relax at a cozy tipi on the banks of the Snake necessary.Groups are limited to 20 adults and children River. Inside, hikers are feted to warm beverages and a over eight. Reservations are required. 739-3399. Ice Skating The Teton County Parks and Recreation Paragliding Department maintains several outdoor rinks, open Clear days and light winds in Jackson help set free of charge seven days a week, temperatures per- the stage for another, equally astonishing view of mitting. Rinks are available for recreation when hock- Jackson Hole: from a paraglider! And the experts ey or broomball games–and practices–aren’t sched- at Jackson Hole Paragliding take full advantage of uled. They’re lit from 6 to 10 p.m. at Jackson’s these conditions. They’ll happily help launch Powderhorn Park and in Wilson at Owen Bircher Park. novices and veterans alike over the valley in tan- Call 733-5056. dem paragliding flights that lift off from the top The indoor rink at the Snow King Center is open of the resort’s Rendezvous Mountain. This to the public for one-and-a-half-hour sessions. Call breathtaking experience requires no athletic abil- 734-3000. ity; the experienced pilots with Jackson Hole Paragliding can even help those a bit daunted by Tubing Park heights. The outfit offers flights from 10 sites in Tons of fun at Snow King, Mon.-Fri. from 4 p.m. to the area. Call 690-tram or visit 8 p.m., weekends from noon till 8 p.m. Adults pay jhparagliding.com. $10/hr. or $14 for two hrs., kids 5-years-old and up pay $7/hr. and $10 for two hrs. Hockey You’ll hear it soon enough: “Go Moose!” the Recreation Center battle cry for the Jackson Hole Moose, who play Located two blocks north of the town square on 155 full-check hockey in the Elite Senior A division of East Gill, Jackson’s rec. center has a gymnasium with

18 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 Wine Shoppe RNAN Trading over 1600 O ’S Post Different Wines D Grocery & Gas Cabins Gift Shop 1 & 2 SPURSPUR RANCHRANCH X-Country Ski & Bedrooms Snow Shoe Rentals with/full baths CABINSCABINS Internet Access & kitchens ATM Access to cross-country trails Pizza & Pasta and Teton views Restaurant 307-733-2522 12 miles North of Jackson in Moose www.dornans.com 307-733-2415 by Mike Calabrese NATIONAL ELK REFUGE SLEIGH RIDES full-size basketball and volleyball courts, an aquatic Wildlife center, locker rooms, and a public meeting room. The aquatic center consists of an eight-lane, competitive Up Close workout pool; a therapeutic pool; a leisure-water pool; See elk, mule deer, coyote, a hot tub; a water slide; a teaching pool; and sauna and eagle, bison & more riding steam rooms. Open 6 a.m. to 9 p.m., Monday through a horse-drawn sleigh thru Friday, from noon to 9 p.m. on Saturday, and noon to 7 the National Elk Refuge. p.m., Sunday.For daily fees, call 739-9025. Departs from the Jackson Hole Visitor’s Center at Western Dancing 532 N. Cache. Call for Restless legs? Work ‘em out with a two-step or cow- more info and tickets at boy waltz at the Cowboy Bar on Thursday evenings 733-0277 733-5386 between 7:30-9 p.m. The Cowboy and the Dancers’ 1-800-772-5386 Workshop Country Western Dance Program sponsor free instruction to anyone showing up before the band hits the stage. After a day on the slopes... A.J. DEROSA'S snow machining, or shopping come to the Teton County/Jackson Recreation Center to revitalize Wildlife for the evening or spend the entire day. Snowshoe Adventures

Events World Championship Snowmobile Hillclimb— This year marks the 33rd year for the World Championship Snowmobile Hillclimb,held annually •Hot tub on Snow King’s slopes. Starting from the bottom of the •Dry sauna resort’s steepest ski run, contestants throttle their way •Steam room straight up the mountain, trying to nail the speediest •75 foot eight lane high mark. Competitors come from all over the coun- laplap poolpool try to vie for “King/Queen of the Hill,”in a world-class •Warm water leisure pool event that benefits St. John’s Hospital in Jackson Hole. Call 734-9653, or go online at snowdevils.org • 185 foot water slide Shriners’All American Cutter Races—This Western Open 7 days a week. Open swim hours: version of horse-drawn chariot racing always draws a Mon-Fri 3:30-8:00 • Sat 1:00-8:00 • Sun 1:00-7:00 huge crowd.Teams run two abreast in a 1/4-mile sprint “Adults only" hours vary. to the finish at the polo grounds south of Jackson. 155 E. Gill St. Teams are auctioned in a Calcutta wager before each (two blocks heat, so high stakes and excitement mark this event. off the town square) 733-3316, jacksonholechamber.com ❆ (307) 732-BOAT (2628) (307) 739-9025 • www.tetonwyo.org/parks www.woodboattours.com www.focusproductions. com 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 19 Looking at nice things while looking nice We’re malcontents. Being an above-average roadside stop wasn’t good enough for us. After barely five generations Jackson Hole has bloomed into a significant art and cultural mecca. We’ve codified visionary plans for world domination. If you gaze around at what’s available (we’ll get to that in a moment) Clair Carlson and Laura Harrison you might think, “Whoa, those Jackson Holers really like to By David Swift put on a show for the tourists.” Well, yes and no. Summers in about it over art-beer. Jackson Hole are large, huge, and mammoth in Since the tourist money isn’t all that great in the terms of tourist lucre. That’s why we have the winter, there’s more local flavor, which implies ambi- Shootout and all the rest, to tickle vacationing fami- tion approaching the outré. There isn’t much you can’t lies with the ol’ dog-and-pony show. indulge in. As far as quality and variety goes, we whip Winter is another matter. Winters are for locals. Idaho Falls three ways to Thursday. Des Moines too, I Yes, visiting skiers and the burgeoning outdoor back- bet. We get a lot of the same acts as Salt Lake City but country trade means a bit of income to snarl over.Still, with adult drinking privileges. winter tourism revenues are but a fraction of the sum- So let’s go get some culture. But first let’s discuss mer haul. You don’t know Jackson Hole until you’ve the most taboo subject known in the art world: shop- read The Cocktail Hour in Jackson Hole,Donald ping.Specifically,shopping for something new to wear. Hough’s seminal memoir about dealing with Teton There are three good reasons to violate this taboo. County,Wyoming’s, long winter. One, it’s winter in Jackson Hole. If you don’t go The Cocktail Hour in Jackson Hole was published 52 shopping my friends may starve.At the very least they years ago and its essence remains: we locals aren’t ones will have to forego the third week of their spring to sit on our hands, provided it’s not 40 below.We’re a sojourn in Costa Rica. valley of busy beavers and busybodies; we commiser- Two, you don’t want to look like a tourist, do you? ate, plot, and start one ruckus or another. Two genera- Not long ago, a relative visiting Italy picked up a shirt tions ago it might involve a welding kit and horses. for my son.Was it a nifty,unique-to-America shirt like Now that we can afford 24-hour snowplowing and Italian schoolboys might wear? No, it was a boring T- four-wheel drive, it could be most anything. shirt with the word “Italy” printed on it. Turista! You’ll If it can’t be done on snow while struggling with find plenty of classy duds in Jackson Hole that you gravity, it’ll be creative. It often involves committees. won’t find at home.Sporting the silk-screened name of And we’re not solely into lookie-art.There’s the art you where you went can be interpreted as a sign that even eat, the art you waft into your ears, and art you drape though you were there, you weren’t really there. or poke or fling, and the art that washes over you in a Three, we need to talk. Dude, you’re going to lose crowded room of strangers so that later you can talk that girl. You’ve been going out for a few months now.

20 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 HORIZON FINE ART

Giner Bueno “Baristas” Oil 18” x 26”

Krystii Melanie “Blue Skies-Scarlett Ibis” Oil 22”x22”

Michael John Hill “Peace & Tranquility” Oil & Acrylic 40”x40”

Marilyn Endres “Segmented Wood Pattern” 33”

1 Vitold Smukrovich “Lilac” Oil 39 ⁄2” x 43”

Nina Reshichenko “Following Dreams” Oil 36” x 48”

Jung Han Kim “Down & Out” Oil 22” x 28”

ENHANCING THE TRADITIONAL

Reg Parson “One Summer Night” INTRODUCING Bronze Edition of 40 THE INNOVATIVE

3 3 Ricky Damen “Abstract Figure Series” Oil 35 ⁄8”x35⁄8” HORIZON FINE ART 165 North Center Street NEXT TO OYG Jackson Hole,Wyoming 83001 Sun, Mon & Tues 10am-6pm Wed-Sat 10am-8pm or call for an appointment 307.739.1504 www.horizonfineartgallery.com Stefan Bateman “Evening Color” Oil 36” x 36” Amy Poor “Cave Horses” Oil 30” x 40” QUEENIE &CO. Fun and Unique Clothing and Accessories...... Something for Everyone!

Feels right. She travels great! Didn’t your eyes light up think real men don’t go clothes shopping in a woman’s when she said, “Ever been to Jackson Hole?” You said store? Then you don’t know what real women like.Once authoritatively, “I’m on it,”and turned your back and you indulge in the game, you won’t care what your pals pumped your fist “Yessss!” think–which is a sign of a real man. So here you are,your second day of world-class ski- Now she has the opportunity to say, “And some- ing.You’ve settled into your digs and are buzzing with thing for you?”You say,“Pick something out.”Preening energy for a night out. You one another: the finest mam- know you’re up for some danc- “You know, Kurt Cobain mals do it. She picks out a ing later on, either elbows-in snazzy something you’d never (Mangy Moose) or elbows-out invented grunge fashion consider,and the way she runs (Cowboy Bar). by accident. He swaddled her hand over the fabric when A fine dinner first. You’re you try it on is all you need to not wearing that sweatshirt himself in frumpy shape- know.Go with it.If you are one again, are you? You know, Kurt less cotton to conceal the of the too-many-males who Cobain invented grunge fash- fact he was scrawny. “ don’t know how to spiff them- ion by accident. He swaddled selves a bit,you are going to be himself in frumpy shapeless shocked to discover how cotton to conceal the fact he was scrawny. Plus, cotton many other women give you a longer glance. is lousy winter wear. Retains moisture, loses heat. That’s why we have fashion. First impressions aren’t And your girlfriend, who is too sweet to say any- the only impression.Fashion is fun until it’s evil.(You’ve thing, is thinking, “Doesn’t he know the difference spent more money on worse evil, with less return on between a special night out and cleaning the garage?” your investment.) No matter, fashion plays a significant Later tonight she wants to powder her nose and come role when it comes to the variety of chemical reactions back to your table and pretend she’s never seen you amongst the civilized.What-evah. Let’s mosey. before so she can get a new crush. Where to begin? The Center for the Arts, one block So after skiing–but before you go to dinner–you south of Broadway and spanning the width from Cache say to her,“Let’s go buy you something for tonight.”You to Glenwood, is a good start. The Glenwood side is New restaurant at ski area ups the ante by 9,000 feet

Even a cursory glance at the Jackson Hole Dining granite. A spacious, south-facing deck offers spec- Guide reveals a full menu of upper-level dining expe- tacular valley views,as well as a direct shot at the riences. But one restaurant ups the ante by a whop- storied Corbet’s Couloir. ping 9,000 feet–and a gondola ride to boot! Diners may choose from a variety of options. The new Bridger Restaurant truly inspires folks, The Mountain Servery cafeteria features an array of says Jackson Hole Mountain Resort spokesperson food stations that tempt the palette, including pasta, Anna Olson.What could be more inspiring than enjoy- Asian cuisine, burgers, and soup-and-salad bar. The ing a gourmet lunch while staring at Corbet’s Couloir? Couloir will delight diners with its 100-seat fine-din- Not a skier? No problem. “Riding the gondola, ing room and a full-service bar. Downstairs, the you can wear ski gear or your latest city outfit,”says Headwall deli serves “gourmet on the go”for upscale Olson, pointing out that diners can either ski or ride grab-and-go foods. the lift back down. On Friday and Saturday evenings, diners can 36 East Broadway Patterned after the Bridger Center in Teton experience the Couloir at night. With live music, Village, the restaurant’s large windows and exposed drink specials, and star-lit views of the valley,guests Downstairs on the Town Square beam work meld rustic and modern design while at ride the Gondola back down after experiencing Jackson Hole,Wyoming 83001 the same time showcasing environmentally friendly Wyoming’s first and only high-mountain dining 307.732.0017 recycled rubber flooring, eucalyptus wood, and venue.— Jeff Burke

22 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 Contemporary outfitting women • men

home to a gamut of disciplines: photog- mix, and the imported espresso mak- raphy,painting,sculpture,music,dance, ers don’t look half bad either. film, and odd blue things that whirr for Music, of course, is everywhere. You no good reason. The Art Association is don’t have to look hard to find country Trina Turk always hanging new exhibits.On the sec- and thrashno-pop. Jazz lurks about ond floor, Dancer’s Workshop might be too–be sure to chase down a true cat, putting on one of their hybrid hiphop Pam Phillips, who often plays piano Paul & Joe shows.Contemporary Dance Wyoming is early evenings at the Granary. The land- due March 24. Over the holidays, mark Grand Teton Music Festival has Dancer’s Workshop will cause jaws to expanded its enormous summer pro- Lacoste drop by not putting on The Nutcracker. gram into a few winter nooks, present- As a change ofpace they will perform ing its Medalist series of chamber music The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe. December 1 at NMWA. Calypso On the Cache side of Center for the Mangy Moose has resumed its tradi- Arts, behold the spectacular new tional aggression in booking national Performing Arts Pavilion. The grand caliber acts. The Motet, Aphrodesia, Rev. Habitual opening is slated for Horton Heat, and March 3, 2007, and its “Impressionism, Robert Earl Keen are first major event is the photography, and slated, among others. True Religion Alpinist Film Festival, On the populist side – March 14-17. The abstract sculpture Hootenanny! Every Performing Arts make for a worldly Monday evening at 7 Joe's Jeans Pavilion is the new at Snow King Center mix, and the home for Jackson’s folkies gather to share many theatrical imported espresso maximum picking Nanette Lepore groups,so their sched- makers don’t look with minimum ules are noticed at this amplification. It’s a writing. Keep on the half bad either .” good opportunity to Robert Graham lookout for the Riot rub elbows with leg- Act, however. This homegrown comedy endary banjoist, autoharpist, and improv troupe is sharp and refreshing. extreme-ski originalist Bill Briggs. Tory Burch The National Museum of Wildlife That’s a quick survey so you don’t Art, a couple miles north of town, is an have to sit on your hands. Among the especially beautiful and inspirational many shortages we don’t suffer is com- Tocca building. “Jungles,” a stunning and munication via newsprint. Four uniquely intimate photographic retro- gimmes–Jackson Hole Daily, Planet Mint spective of Franz Lanting’s career, hangs Jackson Hole,the Dining Guide,and the through January 21. On February 3 the “Stepping Out” section of the Jackson NMWA kicks off its 20th anniversary Hole News and Guide–lay it all down for with “Treasures from the Vault: 20 Years you. One of those sheets is within 35 of Collecting Wildlife Art.” steps of where you are right now,assum- Downtown Jackson is for strolling. ing you’re not in the lift line. There’s more than ever to discover; Jackson’s comprehensive Western art David Swift lives the idyllic life in gallery scene has expanded into a Jackson Hole, except when he’s working more urbane downtown scene. as a photographer, writer, critic, or Impressionism, photography, and information-technology consultant. 105 E. BROADWAY • 307-734-0067 abstract sculpture make for a worldly www.focusproductions. com 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 23 SKISLOPES Jackson Hole Mountain Resort America’s best ski area hen the Jackson Hole Aerial Tram carried its first skiers to the top of Rendezvous W Mountain 40 years ago, their world changed forever. Those early hard cores had Jackson pretty much to themselves. Untracked powder lasted the better part of a week, and the tram went up the hill when enough skiers gathered on the dock. Today’s season pass-holders can only imagine such a world, gone just as surely as Teton Village’s original Tyrolean look. Some of the European styling remains: the tram building, whose future is uncer- tain; The Hostel, still affordable and owned by its founders, the Wilson family; the Alpenhof, which in the early days was the scene of midnight parties at its often-poached swimming pool; and the Village Center, formerly known as the Seven Levels, the aprés-ski bar of the era. As the village continues to shape-shift into the future, reactions are mixed. Some see log cabins on steroids, while others see stunning examples of modern Western architecture. What changes will occur over the next 40 years? Will the new golf resort or a four-lane Moose Wilson Road allow for elk migration? Will backcountry travel near the resort be further restricted due to the presence of bighorn sheep, lynx, and wolverines? Will skiers who cherish the long, wild pitches on the lower faces see them lost to new lifts on Sublette or the Colters? Will Headwall hikers get a lift? No matter what happens—or how we feel about it—the mountain doesn’t change much. Whatever the future brings in manmade things, skiers and snowboarders will find this mountain impossible not to love.—the publishers

ARTICLE BY JEFF BURKE

he tram is off the map. Literally. Retired not only from service, but also from the trail map. And while the lamenting smolders, the bigger question of how to ski Jackson Hole T Resort remains. For 40 years skiers rode the aerial tram in order to negotiate this mountain. It’s what resort founder Paul McCollister envisioned at the Hole’s beginning in 1966: great lines, long runs, and lots of vertical. The perfect 3-D experience. But what once took a single leap, now takes many. So we have to be creative. To gain the 4,139 vertical feet to the summit of Rendezvous Mountain, visitors now will ride the Bridger gondola, Thunder lift, Sublette quad, and the new East Ridge double chair, which climbs the far east side of Rendezvous bowl, dropping skiers

24 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 turns 40, looks to future

Jeff Leger, East Ridge

www.focusproductions. com 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 25 Skier: Jeff Leger Left: The Crags, aptly named and once the exclusive domain of film crews and poachers, opened to the public a few years ago. Top: Rob Kingwill rides Cody Bowl during a film shoot that he convinced TGR to include in their new film, The Anomaly. beside Corbet’s Cabin. The Gang of Four has replaced ski differently–and get skied out differently–than it The change of pace also lends itself to resource The Big One. ever has in the past forty years,”says valley veteran Les economy. “I have a suspicion powder storms will last Since first word of the tram’s de-commissioning, Gibson.“Figuring it out will be really exciting. My goal days, not hours,” says Joaquin Hanson, a Jacksonite questions of how to ski the mountain have invariably is to go where they [other skiers] are not.” who’s skied the mountain for 20 years.“People won’t be dominated many après ski conversations. Will people ski straight down to the bottom,only to repeat the four- lift process? Will they ski only the upper lifts, staying Jackson’s Great out all day? Will they lap Corbet’s Couloir? In an effort to accommodate greater lift traffic, Breakfast the resort has added 16 chairs to Thunder lift and 18 gondola cars, which increases the gondola’s hourly & Lunch rate of skiers from 1,800 to 2,400. They have also installed a small café with bathrooms at the bottom Serving All Day! of Sublette lift. “We think that we will see locals and visitors ride Sublette and East Ridge as a pod this winter,” says resort spokesperson Anna Olsen. The facilities will make it easier to remain in the area. Local Jeff Phillips has his own plan. “I will lap Sublette more,”he says. “But not the East Ridge chair. There are really only three additional options from the summit: the Bowl, East Ridge, or Corbet’s. Sublette has a lot more options.” Bakery & Lapping Rendezvous Bowl, however, was the fair- Restaurant weather plan some years ago when a surface lift carried skiers up the Far Drift. After a few years,though,the lift oudly B was dismantiled because wind and heavy drifting kept Pr Br e ew it closed most of the time. But while it ran, Rendezvous W Bowl became a moguled mess during periods of low snowfall. Essentially the four-lift system will slow the flow to the top of the mountain. Skiing to and from lifts, additional chair time, and potential lift lines are the reality. But is that such a bad thing? Will it compromise the Open 7 Days a Week Jackson experience? 7am-3pm Many people see a silver lining. 130 N. Cache 734-0075 “The exciting thing this year is that the resort will www.bunnery.com www.focusproductions. com 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 27 tetonvillagerealty.com

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28 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 Jackson Hole Sports. Bridger Center at the base of the Gondola. Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, 307-739-2687 Chris Newson skis high above the valley fog in The Cirque, the Sleeping Indian and the Gros Ventres Mountains on the eastern horizon. able to get at it as quickly.” That prolonged powder, though, might come at a small price. Riding more lifts could make for colder days. “I do see a change in the way we dress,”says Hanson, noting the prized shelter of the tram on those windy days. “Instead we’ll have a series of cold lift rides, so dress warm.” It used to be “Hurry up and wait,”a glib understatement describing the mindset of early morning tram-line denizens vying for a first box.Arriving at 6:30,skiers and riders would wait out the cold mornings until the mountain opened, hitting Rendezvous Bowl shortly after 9:00. Sporting a pair of fat skis, they could be down for a second lap before 9:30. This pace lent itself to quick farming.With the new configu- But do we always have to be on top? Sometimes it’s good to be on the bottom. For example, imagine the mass of early bird powder skiers slithering up the lifts like a snake. ration, it doesn’t matter when you arrive: it will take some time to get on top, slowing the harvest considerably. But do we always have to be on top? Sometimes it’s good to be on the bottom. For example, imagine the mass of early bird powder skiers slithering up the lifts like a snake.Whatever part of the snake’s body we view ourselves as might make a difference. If you’re the head, say, you might as well follow the lifts to the top and get your 4,000 vertical. If you’re in the middle, maybe you follow the Pied Piper to Thunder lift and drop down an untracked lower face.If you drank too much the night before and round out the tail, work off last night’s libations with a boot-pack up the “White Spider, ” and burn a lap down Casper bowl or the Headwall. If the rat race isn’t your thing,there’s always something on Aprés Vous. Namely powder. For years people have quietly passed up the long lines to play in Jackson’s other kingdom. Ski powder runs all morning and meet your friends at noon. Or not.And don’t let the casual suggestion fool you: there is a variety of beginner, moderate, and advanced slopes for the taking. Bang out of Teewinot Face right off, or soar down some of the best groomers east of the Pacific. If powder is all you love, head left off the lift, snag a line down Saratoga Bowl and then pat yourself on the back for nailing one of the resort’s unsung gems. Motivated, Hiring a guide might be worth your while if you’re new to the resort. Intimate with the terrain, a guide can maxi- Dedicated,& mize your experience. And while some people believe Jackson Hole’s guide program might take a hit due to the tram’s absence, guide Jim Kandolin thinks otherwise. Client Centered “We might be more valuable,”he suggests.“We have the local knowledge, and it’s our job to know how to read the mountain. And there’s a new set of scenarios to read into now. There’s value in that.” The tram may be gone, but the reason it was put here in the first place–the terrain–hasn’t changed. Jackson Sean Clark Hole’s 3,000 in-bounds acres still showcase world-class Sales Associate steeps,beautiful views,and endless skiing opportunities.A 4 time Town new 100-person box is on its way, but won’t arrive until Downhill Champion 2008. At least that’s what they tell us. Until then, keep ski- Contact Teton View Realty of Jackson Hole for all your Real Estate needs ing.Whether you come to push your limits or to relax with To view Sean Clark’s exclusive listings go to www.tetonviewrealty.com your family, Jackson Hole remains a three–dimensional 5355 West Hwy 22, Wilson, Wyoming • [email protected] experience. 307-733-4350 office • 307-690-8716 cell • 307-733-5020 Fax Jeff Burke, an 11-year resident,works as a ski patrolman, Photo: Wade McKoy Photo: Wade Licensed in Idaho & Wyoming writer,and is Editor at Large for Backcountry magazine. 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 31 OPEN-GATE PROTOCOL BY LAUREN M. WHALEY Movie skiers regularly trigger avalanches to the beats of remixed hip-hop, but real life out-of- bounds skiing paints a potentially chilling picture. Those who venture out past the boundary gates at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort should know that Jackson Hole has led the nation in avalanche deaths since 2000, said Bob Comey, ski patroller and chief avalanche forecaster at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort and director of the Bridger-Teton National Forest Avalanche Center. While this startling figure will send some snowplowing back to Aprés-Vous,others will still crave the open-boundary freedom. If you do choose to leave the ski-area boundary,you should know the risks of skiing on terrain the ski patrol does not manage. If necessary, Teton County Sheriff’s Office and Grand Teton National Park–not the ski patrollers on the mountain–will coordinate a rescue. Jake Elkins, ski patrol director, summed up risk-management advice for out-of- bounds skiing: knowledge. “The best thing they can do when they head out into the backcountry is have knowledge,”he said.“Knowledge of the terrain, where they’re going, the most recent The winter of 2005-2006 brought loads of snow, and a few sunny days, weather, a stability evaluation….They should have knowledge of transceivers and too. Skier: Jason Tattersall how to use them and know the weather forecast.” If you’re the least bit unsure of your knowledge or your partners’ knowledge, hire a guide, suggested Comey. They’re local, knowledgeable, and cool. They can lead you to deep and fluffy cowboy powder with less risk than if you ventured out on your own. Sometimes, you don’t even need to leave the ski area to find the best snow, Comey said. “I’ve been skiing here for 25 years and I know that the best snow is usually not in the avalanche paths,”he said.“The avalanche paths are subject to wind deposition and sun crusts. They’re more open and there are no trees.” Comey said if you do go out, and even if you’re a great skier, know the area and weather conditions, have perfect equipment and knowledgeable partners, you’re still not guaranteed a no-avalanche ski run. “What it’s really about is knowing the risk and managing the risk,”Comey said. “Some people die in a shallow burial, with no trauma. … The really big thing is not getting caught.” TIPS FOR SAFE(R) OUT-OF-BOUNDS TRAVEL: For a daily avalanche-hazard forecast go to www.jhavalanche.org or call 734-2664. First tracks on No Name Face require a long walk early in the morning, Knowledge: as well as bypassing Cody Bowl’s waiting powder snow. • Know the area and the terrain where you plan to ski. • Know the area above and below where you plan to ski; sometimes small avalanches throw people off the cliffs below. • Know the weather and weather forecast. • Know how to use your rescue equipment (and make sure your partners do too). • Know how to read snow conditions and terrain. • Know how to ski expertly; out-of-bounds terrain is expert skiing, even in the sunniest of conditions. Equipment and Companion: • Always check jhavalanche.org or call the hotline before venturing out of bounds. • Always wear a transceiver and carry a probe, shovel, and extra layers. • Always check your transceiver’s batteries before venturing out. •Always ski with a partner. • Always tell someone in-bounds where you’re going and check in when you return. • Always go with someone who knows what they’re doing. If unsure, hire a guide. • Never go alone!

When not glued to her computer, Lauren M. Whaley tries to snowboard and Rendezvous Peak and the headwall cliff of No Name Canyon make a climb in the Tetons as much as possible. This winter, she's learning to ski. celestial stadium for a long tour. Skier: Eric Rohr

32 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 he opportunities are as limitless as the Wyoming sky. Choose from 128 lodge

rooms and suites with unique • Mountain Lodge Spa massage rustic styling. Ski in from the therapy and body treatments • Cascade Grill House & Spirits Jackson Hole Mountain Resort featuring New Western American cuisine. Bridger Gondola. • Fitness center with indoor & With the breathtaking wilderness outdoor heated pools • Ski Concierge services and of Grand Teton National Park in-room ski boot dryers less than one mile away, Teton • Complimentary in-room high-speed Internet access Mountain Lodge is the ultimate • 2,200 square feet meeting space base camp and lodging choice for • Whirlpool bathtubs your Jackson Hole adventure. • Stone-faced gas fireplaces available • Fully-equipped kitchens available • Mountain Lodge Spa expansion coming July ‘07! Skier’s Dream Package Starts at$570 per person: • Early December • 4 nights in a Lodge Room or Moran Junior Suite • 3 days skiing or snowboarding at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort for two adults • Daily breakfast for two • Full access to Mountain Lodge Spa including spa and hot tub! *Offer is valid Dec. 2, 2006-April 8, 2007. Package price is per person, based on double occupancy and is subject to a four night minimum stay. Package price varies depending on dates of stay. Rate is subject to tax and lodge service fee.

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www.focusproductions. com 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 33 NEW TRAM COMING IN 2008 BY LAUREN M. WHALEY Jackson Hole Mountain Resort will replace its 40-year-old aerial tram with a faster and bigger lift, set to open December 2008. The 100-person replacement tram, slated to be built on the same footprint as its predecessor,will have an uphill capacity of 650 skiers per hour, more than twice that of the retired tram. Nestled inside the car for a mere 7.5 minutes, skiers in 2008 will have five fewer minutes to look at the scenery before bounding through the new, larger tram doors and onto the summit. The “reversible jig-back” lift will have two cabins moving to and fro, explained Jan Leonard,president of lift manufacturer Doppelmayr/CTEC, the company hired to oversee design and construction. “There’s no reason to believe that it won’t be the icon of the area,”Leonard said. “To the credit of the Kemmerers (JHMR owners), they have done truly the right thing all the way around here.” The right thing will cost an estimated $25 million and is being financed by Jackson State Bank & Trust. The Kemmerer family and resort administrators could have chosen a more economical option, but instead “are looking forward to what’s best for Jackson Hole,”Leonard said. Local filmmaker Darrell Miller,31,who grew up snowboarding in Jackson Hole, agreed. “JHMR made the best decision possi- Father Time (Rob Maris) departs Valley Station for ble in replacing the tram instead of putting the very last tram ride on April 2, 2006. in a gondola or non-tram option,” Miller said. “Hang tight and be patient, it’ll be back.” lodging capacity at Teton Village. Some wonder if a tramless Jackson Hole will Revenue from the new $11 million, 22,000-square- decrease skier visits, which topped a record 455,500 foot Bridger Restaurant might also help support tram last year. loans and increase visitors, resort officials said at a “The stars aligned last year,” said Olson, JHMR press conference. spokesperson. “The last tram and great snow. It was Further down the road, the Snake River Associates’ extraordinary to witness.” long-term development project next to Teton Village, approved in summer 2005,will add about 500 homes,a “JHMR made the best decision pos- 10,000 square-foot commercial space, a golf course, sible in replacing the tram instead of and skier parking. putting in a gondola or non-tram As for the new tram’s construction timeline, Doppelmayr/CTEC will design the tram from its Utah option,” Miller said. “Hang tight and offices and have the parts made in Switzerland, then be patient, it’ll be back.” shipped over here in spring 2007 to start construction. Until it’s completely dismantled, the old tram will Olson was optimistic that the combination of local serve ski patrollers performing snow-control work and pass-holders and several projects will keep the resort construction crews, who could use it to erect towers afloat, in numbers and finances. and a top terminal, which might or might not be cov- She noted, for example, that the resort recently sold ered, Olson said. three acres to Crescent Resources, LLC., which plans to The public is no longer allowed on the old tram,but break ground for a new hotel-condominium complex the 18 new gondola cabins and 16 new chairs on May 2007. That project’s completion will increase the Thunder lift will help soften the loss.

34 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 Kingwill hopes the resort continues to expand the terrain for the parks and pipe, and that it will allow builders and visionaries more freedom to make bigger and better terrain that is more diverse, he said. TERRAIN “[The builders] work extremely long and hard, above and beyond the call of duty, to create the best park and pipe that they can with the resources they have available,” Kingwill said. PARK AND “There is a great assortment of rails and boxes to choose from,all linked together with fun medium- sized jumps. The park is a great place to get some SUPERPIPE experience under your belt before you head off into the backcountry to build that big jump and land the trick of your dreams.” With two terrain parks and a superpipe, both expert tricksters and those of us who consider a six-inch lift “getting air” can enjoy practicing and perfecting tricks daily in a place designed for that purpose. Resort administrators remind skiers and riders that skiing and riding in control applies to park and pipe areas too. They advise park and pipe visitors to Corey Jackson chases his shadow through the superpipe. look before they leap, make sure landings are clear, every day. Everything will stay the same, noted Tim and clear themselves out of the landing area after BY LAUREN M. WHALEY Mason, mountain services director. sticking their tricks. Before combining jumps with freerid- “I think if families are going to come and ski Jackson, Skiers and riders can visit the terrain parks and ing or trying to land that frontside 1080 the kids are more of the draw for the park and pipe,” superpipe any time of day: in between powder runs, in the backcountry, Jackson Hole trick- Mason said.“That’s mainly why we throw those in there, at midday when sun floods the parks, or toward the sters should hone their skills on the to have a whole-family experience. Whether you snow- end of the day, when the rest of the mountain has board or ski or do both, everybody’s happy.” resort’s two terrain parks and superpipe. been skied up and is in shade. The expert terrain park has $15,000 worth of new “One of the great things about the park is that Beginning skiers and riders could visit the Little rails, added last year, and jumps built in sunny areas for when there is no powder to be found,there is always Britches terrain park on Antelope Flats, which features softer landings. The 450-foot superpipe is cut with a something to play on, and it tends to be better when rails, little jumps, and mini-table tops. Experts can Zaugg groomer, rumored to cut the pipe to Winter X- it hasn’t snowed in a while,”said Owen Ashley, 20, check out the Rodeo Grounds terrain park off the Games standards. who grew up in Jackson Hole and plans to spend col- Aprés Vous lift. “The pipe is a full-size superpipe,extra long for being lege winter breaks riding at Teton Village. “It’s also “The mini-park is one of the big attractions on any able to link together all your tricks,and with the addition nice to get your tricks dialed in [in] the park so you given day at Jackson Hole, where all levels of people of the new Zaugg pipe cutter, Jackson will have a pre- can take them out to the real mountain that Jackson can come through and hit some small, fun jumps and miere competition-level pipe,”Kingwill said. “The great is so famous for.” rails,”pro snowboarder Rob Kingwill said. thing is,you can ride the pipe all day and never hike once, For more information on the two terrain parks, For the 2006-07 season, the park and pipe will thanks to the handle-tow right next to the pipe. This lets superpipe, and upcoming competitions and events, operate as it did last year, from 9 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. you focus on your tricks and not your cardio.” visit www.jacksonhole.com/info/ski.freeride.asp.

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www.focusproductions. com 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 35 Skiing or snowboarding 100 days in one Sseason comes naturally to some people,and in THE the past 40 years of resort-town life scores of Jackson Holers have done it. Each year during the final week, as these dedicated individuals close in on the triple-digit mark or soar past it toward the maximum 120-plus days, many other fun-loving pass holders party with like- 100 minded intensity. They ski in costume, hold whacky races,have snowball fights,and gener- CLUB ally hang out and enjoy themselves in their own uniquely spirited and creative ways. Last year resort officials decided to embrace this traditional revelry rather than ignore or, in some cases, shun it. In a very well received year-end festival, they gave out prizes, staged free outdoor concerts (including Blues Traveler, no less),and awarded special recognition to those who put in over 99 days on the hill. Inductees to The 100 Club were awarded a newly created club patch, had breakfast with resort officials and celebrities, and–the best part of all–were invited to join company staff for their annual post-season perk:a private day of skiing at the resort–which happened to be a stormy powder day,no less.Hoo-hah!!! How do they do it? And why? Here are some insightful answers from just a few of those skiers and snowboarders who dedicate their winters to riding lifts and making turns,a tradition as old as the resort.

Max Diem*, 30, 4/4 (name, age, years passholder/years +100 days) Is it a numbers game or a passion? Oh, it’s a passion. It just happened to be consecutive. I’ve kept a little ski journal since 1998 and I didn’t think of the number until I looked at the journal and realized there were no gaps. What life choices or lifestyle are necessary to do it? A lot of sacrifice,I’d say.It’s not uncommon for me to work 80-to-90 days in a row. That’s about the numbers, and it sucks. What do you sacrifice? The summers. That’s when I just work. In winter I only work four nights a week and no days, an understanding I have with my employer. Any one-run days? Some, like a Granite Canyon lap. It’s hard to take just one run at the Village. A Gondi/Thunder/Sublette I call one run.

Cisco Oldani, 38, 32/18

Is it a numbers game or a passion? FINEJEWELRY&GIFTS It’s a passion, but I guess the numbers make up the lifestyle. What life choices or lifestyle are necessary to do it? Commitment to the ski and snowboard industry, having owned a retail shop (the Board Room) and coached with the Jackson Hole Snowboard Club and Windell’s Summer Camp for a dozen years, participated in the production of ski and snowboard apparel (Blackspoon), and in K2 snowboard product develope- ment. since 1970 What do you sacrifice? OF JACKSON HOLE Not becoming a doctor, or a lawyer, or an architect. And losing summer days to chase winter in places like Alaska, Mt. Hood, and New Zealand. 307.733.5599 | 80 Center St. Any one-run days? www.hinesgold.com Sure,if it’s minus 20 in the morning I’ll wait till it’s minus 10 and go take one run, or after consecutive no-snow days when it’s icy.

36 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 Jeff Leger, 32, 15/15

Is it a numbers game or a passion? It’s a passion. What life choices or lifestyle are necessary to do it? Just the passion. What, if anything, do you sacrifice? You r b o dy. S om e t i m e s maybe your wallet, depending on how you do it. Any one-run days? Yeah, definitely.Not too many, though. Are those motivated by the numbers game? No,I’ve just got to go see what it’s like,even if I think it’s going to be horrible.

Bill Maloney, 69, 31/14

Is it a numbers game or a passion? MADE LIKE YOU

Passion! DIVE MASTER 500M What lifestyle is necessary to do it? For me, I basically ski every day for about four hours and I work every day for four- to-five hours. I’m able to com- EST 1970 bine that. Having an office On the Town Square 80 Center Street Jackson Hole, WY 307-733-5599 www.hinesgold.com right next to the tram dock doesn’t hurt. What, if anything, do you sacrifice? I don’t sacrifice anything. It’s all a plus. I work because On it’s fun. Mountain Any one-run days? No, but let me tell you about my two finest days of ski- Ski ing:going into Once is Enough with Doug Coombs,and skiing Teewinot with my two-year-old grandson. How’s Photos that for contrast? Can you do any better than that?

Spencer Rank, 41, 7/6 www.elevationimaging.com Is it a numbers game or a Call for appointment passion? JACKSON HOLE, WY Oh,it’s a passion.You gotta 307-733-4311 & TELLURIDE, CO go every day. What life choices are necessary to do it? I think you have to sacrifice material wealth. Don’t do Coffee Pizza Slices like I did–think you can ski bum just one year. That has Espresso Wraps led to problems! Bakery Sandwiches What did you sacrifice? 401K. Those kinds of perks. Breakfast Beers Any one-run days? No. I think it’s always minimum three laps to find out Salads & Soups cocktails how bad it is.You go do some reconnaissance at least. Located next to Wildernest sports in Teton Village * Max Diem and Brian Rutter,not pictured, both skied ✦ Open 7am daily ✦ the maximum 121 days. That’s Max’s real name, and not–as the Latin savvy might suspect–a pseudonym. 732-CAFE www.focusproductions. com 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 37 BACKCOUNTRYSKIING by Jeff Ward Earn Your Turns with a Guide

hat if you were offered the Wexcitement of an adventure, the joy of powder skiing, and the endorphin buzz of an aerobic workout–all in one activity? Would you buy into it? Many people already have. But just what is it? Backcountry skiing! And it’s available to those willing to put in a little effort at earning their turns. Jackson Hole harbors both vast accessible backcountry ski terrain and a community of ski devotees who can provide resources for avalanche safety, guided tours, and equipment outfitting. It’s hard to really isolate the best part of backcountry skiing. Skiing untracked powder is one banner aspect, but that’s only part of the experience. The rest of it includes picking a destination away from the crowds, navigating the route, and getting there under your own power. Reaching a summit under these conditions is rewarding enough, but adding powder-skiing bliss into the mix nudges backcountry skiing into its own stratosphere. Rob Maris Backcountry skiing, though, does require a great deal of spe- Rob Kingwill cialized gear. Sifting through all the options can be overwhelming. The skis, boots, and bindings are specific to the sport, and on top of that, you need to carry avalanche- safety equipment–and know how to use it! Jackson has plenty of places to rent high-quality gear. It’s also well stocked with guide companies to educate you on avalanche awareness and take you places you might never venture to on your own. Continued page 40

38 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 Mike Calla www.focusproductions. com 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 39 Evolution of AT (All Terrain) Gear Not surprisingly, the evolution of backcountry avalanche education skis and boots has kept apace the sport’s raging popularity, and the gear options reflect that popularity. backcountry skiing Some skiers demand the same downhill performance from backcountry equipment that resort boots and skis provide, while others are willing to sacrifice ski mountaineering some stiffness for lighter weight.Two categories,naturally, have emerged. ice climbing First, let’s look at the beefy rigs that resemble alpine equipment in performance and weight. This type of set-up is perfect for jaunts in and out of ski- area boundaries, and for those who don’t mind carrying extra weight in order to get the best performance on the descent. The boots in this category all have four buckles and are typically used with step-in bindings crafted by Fritschi, Naxo, or Silvretta. Skiing “sick lines” and “phat pow” aside, your guide is there to help you acquire skills and grow as a mountain traveler. The second category strikes a balance between light weight and downhill ski performance and is perfect for longer tours, when weight is critical. Exum guide Mark Newcomb prefers this equipment. “Lighter alpine touring boots are good for ninety- eight percent of backcountry skiing,”he points out, “because there simply aren’t moguls out there, so a rigid boot that drives a big, stiff ski isn’t necessary.” Most of these boots have only three buckles, but the telltale sign for this category is the little hole on each skiski guidesguides side of the toe. The Dynafit ultra-light touring bind- forfor thethebackcountry ing, one pound lighter per binding than the others, backcountry clamps into these holes.

experienceexperience PHOTO: WADE MCKOY Basic safety equipment includes a transceiver to locate someone buried in an avalanche, a probe pole JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN GUIDES equipment partner: to locate a buried victim at close range, a shovel to & Climbing School dig him out, and a pack for hauling all of it. Since 1968 Dressing for a backcountry ski tour is slightly www.jhmg.com 307-733-4979 800-239-7642 more complicated than suiting up to ski at a resort. A licensed concessioner of Grand Teton National Park www.mammut.com You need the right clothing for the cardiovascular effort on the way up,and the right clothing to keep all that powder out on the way down. A warm layer could come in handy if you wind up standing around What’s in your cup? for some unexpected reason.An extra pair of goggles Authentic boiled and is invaluable, especially if you’re skinning in stormy baked bagels, specialty coffee conditions. Exertion will likely fog the first pair dur- In Town & Wilson ing the climb; the second pair will provide optical Open daily 6:30am - 6:00pm 307-739-1218 — Jackson clarity when you need it most–on the descent. And 307-739-1261 — Wilson because perspiration is part of the game, it’s in the backcountry where you’ll appreciate clothes that wick and soft shells that breathe. Food and hydration are critical considerations in the backcountry; you can’t really duck inside and buy a cookie and cider. Carry plenty of water, and remember to drink it! Have some food onboard, too, like energy bars. Even if from all the excitement you 40 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 forget to eat, the food will be there when you realize you’re hungry. SKI THE TETONS Hiring a Guide Hiring a backcountry ski guide is the best way to You? • Grand Teton Ski Descents straighten the learning curve from beginner to • Pristine Backcountry advanced, and it offers equal, if different, value to both groups. For instance, the novice benefits when Skiing for all Abilities a ski guide provides on-the-job avalanche training • Avalanche Education and then chooses the right slopes to maximize the • Ski Mountaineering quantity and quality of skiing. The more experi- for all Abilities enced skier benefits when a lofty objective proves out of reach, aptly illustrated by testimony from Deer • Ice Climbing Valley ski instructor Cameron Romero. He became CONCEIVE the first client on a guided ski descent of the Grand Teton. Exum guides Mark Newcomb and Doug Coombs led him to the Grand summit after he had failed at numerous attempts on his own. What if your ski vacation happens to coincide BELIEVE with a winter drought? The local bars likely will be ACHIEVE

BORN PROFESSIONALLY Go to www.exumguides.com Or Call 307-733-2297 Exum is America’s oldest and most experienced guide service. Our guides have logged dozens of first ski descents in the Tetons and around the world. Join us for a winter experience of Eric Rohr a life-time, no matter what your skill level or experience. Get there with Marmot gear. Marmot.com Photo: Bob Woodall-focusproductions.com packed and the powder, no doubt, hacked. But even Exum is an authorized concessioner of Grand Teton National Park, The Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, and the Targhee National Forest then a guide can lead you to good snow stashes. As Diane Jung of Rendezvous Backcountry Tours Serving Jackson’s finest pizza since 1980 points out, “In the backcountry, even if it hasn’t “Homemade” Subs snowed in weeks and you are savvy, you can generally find good snow.” Traditional, Salads Rendezvous Backcountry Tours also operates Wholewheat, Sandwiches four backcountry yurts, which allow clients to watch or Deep Dish that beautiful sunset while on a ski run high up in Crust Calzones the hills. An overnight stay in the wilderness can be 100% Real Cheese Gyros enjoyable–when you actually plan on doing it. Fresh Meats Skiing “sick lines” and “phat pow” aside, your and Vegetables Beer & Wine guide is there to help you acquire skills and grow as a mountain traveler. Evan Howe of Jackson Hole WE DELIVER! 733-3646 Mountain Guides, says, “Learning how to skin and 120 West Broadway • One Block West of the Town Square • Open Daily using your skis to travel through the mountains is a www.focusproductions. com 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 41 remarkable skill to have, and can take you places familiar with the area, some beautiful powder Jackson’s you never thought you could go.” runs and cliff hucking lie in your future. BACKCOUNTRY SHOP Resort Backcountry Resources If you’ve ever looked longingly at the beautiful If you’re new to Jackson’s backcountry ski ter- Clothing untracked peaks outside the Jackson Hole rain, though, a little research may be in order. The North Face Mountain Resort’s boundaries and wondered how Asking around at local shops and getting a copy Patagonia Arc’teryx to safely and efficiently get to them,your time has of Tom Turiano’s book, Teton Skiing: A History & Mountain come. You can expand your access to the ski Guide To The Teton Range,are the best places to Hardwear resort by 3,000-to-4,000 acres, more than dou- begin. Most backcountry ski tours start at Teton Marmot bling the inbounds acreage. The resort guide Pass or in Grand Teton National Park, where the Prana Ibex service provides the guide, avalanche trans- options range from easy-in and easy-out (like Löle ceivers,probe poles,and shovels. The lifts provide Telemark Bowl on Teton Pass) to multi-day trips the altitude gain. You provide a bit of shuffling, with extreme terrain. Two popular park ski tours, some side-stepping,possibly a short hike,and the 25 Short and Maverick, offer 3,000 vertical feet of enthusiasm for being “out there.” Resort skiing in a single pitch. Both are in Turiano’s K2 spokesperson Anna Olson encourages hiring a book and are good places to start. Sue Magruder G3 : guide to push your limits and broaden your ski As always, practice safety first: know where you AT Skier Goode adventure.“You talk to somebody at the end of a are going. People die in backcountry terrain every XC Atomic guide day, and they have generally broken all year. Simply following the trail of other skiers is Telemark Icelantic Skate Skis kinds of boundaries,”says Olson. akin to cheating off a test from a person sitting Garmont & Snowshoes SkiTrab The same is true on the other side of the Teton next to you.The result could be two big failures. Range, at Grand Targhee Resort. Although no Rentals & Tunes Available Jeff Ward has been skiing Jackson Hole's back- guide service is offered,there is an open-gate pol- country, front-country, and side-country for eight icy. If you’re avalanche-terrain savvy, willing to years. He thinks that watching ski movies in August hike a little, and you take some time to become makes waiting for winter painfully long.

Clockwise from upper right: Corey Felton 170 North Cache Jackson 733-3595 Jason Tattersall Snowboarder unknown

42 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 Wilson Backcountry Sports “If you’ve ever Telemark & Randonee Equipment Garmont & Scarpa Tele Boots looked longingly Black Diamond Equipment Life-Link/Dynafit K2 Telemark Dealer at the beautiful Fritschi Bindings untracked peaks outside the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort’s boundaries and wondered how to safely and efficiently get to them, your time has come.” Located in downtown Wilson at the base of Teton Pass Your Backcountry Ski Headquarters RENTALS • SALES • SERVICE 733-5228 Backcountry Ski & Snowboard Tours

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HELICOPTER&SNOWCATSKIING by Mike Calabrese and Wade McKoy Ease into the Backcountry nterest in powder skiing has skyrocketed in recent years, and there isn’t a Great American Beer Iskier or snowboarder anywhere who can’t grasp the reason: snow, fresh snow— Festival's Small Brewery and tons of it. Mountain ranges of it, to be more precise. Since backcountry terrain requires very little new snow to freshen it up, to cover the old tracks and put & Brew Master of the the slopes back in primo powder condition, access to that terrain is on every- Year Winner body’s front burner. More awards for brewing Hiking and touring remain the purest ways to get there, but helicopters have a place in the scheme of things, too. They provide access to more remote places excellence than any other than even the strongest ski tourers could reach without packing overnight gear. microbrewery in the country. Their use also opens the backcountry to many people who would not otherwise Serving... ski outside the resorts. And for hard-core skiers, choppers provide an enthralling tasty brews, delicious wood fired twist to a day of powder skiing. pizzas, pastas, sandwiches, Here is the Beta on heli-skiing in Wyoming and in our big-brother state, Alaska. Also, check out the new snowcat skiing operation on Togwotee Pass. salads, soups, and desserts from 11:30 am until High Mountain Midnight. 7 days a week. Heli-Skiing 265 S. Millward 739-BEER Since 1974, High www.snakeriverbrewing.com Mountain Heli-Skiing (HMH) has been offering its guests the ultimate deep-powder helicopter-skiing experience in So much more than Jackson Hole–untracked snow Big Macs® and in the backcountry within a safety cocoon provided by the world famous fries. guides. HMH owner Jon Shick’s Come in and see backcountry calendar would drive any powder aficionado what’s new! to distraction. “I went twelve years without missing a single day of Above: Jason Tattersall, Snake River Range, Jackson Hole heli-skiing,” he recalled. Facing page: Doug Coombs, Thompson Pass, Valdez, Alaska Shick’s 19 winters as the company’s lead guide and ava- “Powder hounds can rack up view that the earthbound lanche forecaster suit him can only imagine. 12,000 to 15,000 vertical feet Premium Chicken Sandwiches well as he steers High Each HMH guide, featuring Ranch BLT, Club, & Classic Mountain Heli-skiing into its in the stunning terrain of the trained in outdoor emer- Chicken Selects® • Snack Wraps 32nd season. Bridger-Teton and Caribou-Targhee gency care, CPR, and ava- Premium Salads Shick’s helicopters, state- lanche-hazard forecasting Fruit&Walnut Salad of-the-art Bell 407s, convey national forests, alpine grandeur and mountain rescue, skiers and boarders into some rounds out every group of that transfixes even the locals.” Fruit&Yogurt Parfait five skiers. Because the ter- of the region’s finest forest and Fresh Baked Cookies & Great Desserts glades.Powder hounds can rack up 12,000 to 15,000 ver- rain ranges from intermediate to expert, skiers and ® tical feet in the stunning terrain of the Bridger-Teton and boarders should be at the advanced level. McGriddles , Bagels and Caribou-Targhee national forests, alpine grandeur that But, thanks to fat skis, non-powder skiers can tackle Platters at Breakfast transfixes even the locals. The Snake River and Palisades terrain far more easily than in heli-skiing’s early years. Open & serving your favorites ranges and portions ofthe Hoback,Teton,and Gros “The Rossignol Haute Route (from the early ‘80s) really 5:30 am to midnight everyday Ventre mountain ranges lure plenty of local backcountry set the stage for shorter, wider skis,”Shick said.“The new enthusiasts, but few can reach the untouched vastness skis work better on a wider variety of terrain,”he added. Free Wi-Fi with purchase where High Mountain’s pilots transports its clients. And The learning curve is keeping up with the ventures into 1110 Broadway @ Hwy 22 the choppers–faster, quieter, and safer than ever–offer a new ski country that High Mountain Heli-Skiing accesses. Jackson Hole, WY • 307-733-7444

www.focusproductions. com Continued next page 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 45 Togwotee Mountain Lodge “The terrain varies from Snowcat Guides super mellow to short, steep As lead guide for Jackson Hole’s first and only snowcat shots like the Expert operation, Jamie Weeks can hardly believe his good for- tune.“I’m so jazzed about what we have to offer,”he said of Chutes. Much of the the terrain on Togwotee’s Angle Mountain. “The views of 750 acres is similar to Jackson Hole and the Teton Range while you are skiing are outstanding.” HMH terrain—1,600 Weeks should know a good thing when he sees it, hav- vertical feet of wide-open ing guided snowboarders and skiers for seven years at the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort (JHMR) and five years in bowls and faces, steeps, Alaska with Valdez Heli Ski Guides (VHSG). and trees—great The big selling points for Weeks are the views, the for advanced serenity of this remote location, and being able to easily access all aspects and choose from 360 degrees of skiing. intermediates.” Skiing north,south,east,and west enable the guides to lead clients to the best snow despite any changes in weather conditions or the time of day. The ambulatory nature of skiing, compared to the more restrictive mechanics of snowboarding,can present a challenge to guides, so the snowboarders in the group will be happy to know that the lead guide is a fellow ‘boarder. “We encourage both skiers and snowboarders to come ride with us,”Weeks said.“I’m a ‘boarder and I know how to guide them, and I’ve also guided plenty of skiers.” The terrain varies from super mellow to short, steep shots like JHMR’s Expert Chutes. Much of the 750 acres is similar to HMH terrain–1,600 vertical feet of wide-open bowls and faces, steeps, and trees–great for advanced intermediates. Togwotee Mountain Lodge rests on Togwotee Pass, 48 miles from Jackson. From the lodge, Angle Mountain is a short snowcat drive into the Bridger Teton National Forest, which receives an average annual snowfall of over 300 inches. A full day of cat-skiing consist of six to ten runs, depending on the ability of the group, which may include up to 12 clients. Half days, snowmobile/ski combos and custom trips are also available, all led by highly trained guides who have advanced avalanche certifications. Skier: Spencer Rank

46 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 Alaska Rendezvous Heli-Guides “If you can ski the Hobacks, the Lower Faces, or Rendezvous Bowl, you can ski the Chugach and have a TOGWOTEE great time doing it,”said Alaska Rendezvous Heli Guides owner Theo Meiners. Theo should know. A 29-year veteran of the Jackson SNOWCAT SKIING Hole Ski School with 12 years of guiding in Alaska, he has strong ties to both places. ADVENTURE IN THE JACKSON HOLE BACKCOUNTRY Although his company is located on Thompson Pass, 50 miles from Valdez, Alaska, its name reflects Meiner’s affinity for Jackson Hole’s Rendezvous Mountain.“I wanted ‘rendezvous’ part of my name,” he said, “and it works because Alaska also has a fur trapper’s rendezvous in February when the sun comes back out.” His ski season follows those lengthening Alaskan days, beginning on March 12, when a full 12 hours of daylight illuminate the Chugach, and ending May 6, as 17 hours of daylight quickly close in on the never-setting summer sun. “We’re above the 61st parallel,”said Theo,“which corresponds to the Antarctic Peninsula. That gives us some of the greatest snow on earth.” Theo’s motel, along with a historic building serving as his restaurant, bar, and liquor store, are all key to his successful operation. “Modern conveniences–hot water, comfortable rooms, great food, a secure base–that’s all very important,” Theo “We’re above the 61st parallel,” said 800-543-2847 307-543-2847 TOGWOTEE Theo, “which corresponds to the www.togwoteelodge.com [email protected] MOUNTAIN Antarctic Peninsula. That gives us Highway 26/287 PO Box 91 Moran,WY LODGE some of the greatest snow on earth.” emphasized.“People have to feel really comfortable so they can relax after the stress from being in the wilds.” The motel has a massage area, a workout area, a laun- dromat, and eight large rooms with queen-size beds, pri- IGH OUNTAIN ELI - KIING vate baths, and telephone/data lines. “The land-line was H M H S completed four years ago, a 70-year project by the state. Now people can sit in their rooms and go online with their computers or conveniently talk on the phone to friends back home.” Or they can step out onto the porch and view their ski day. “Right out my door is the ‘front nine,’”he said.“They all have pyramid-shaped north faces and long slopes, some with 5,200-vertical-foot runs. In a week my clients ski about 40 runs and 200,000 vertical.” Theo displayed a picture of a smiling, middle-aged Jackson couple, strong recreational skiers. “It’s a misper- ception that all Alaskan terrain is extreme,” Theo explained,and other photos from his album reveal the couple enjoying moderately sloped Alaskan powder.“ His photo collection is also full of Jacksonites who return yearly to experience Alaska’s famously gigantic, steep slopes. “Our permit includes five mountain ranges, and we ski ‘em all,”he said,referring to the terrain layout of a 50-by-50 square mile area. And the snow? “We get snowstorms like Florida gets hurricanes,”he said. “The average snowfall at sea level is Enjoy the pure powder experience. 350 inches, and on Thompson Pass is 600-to-700 inches, Ski the high mountains where with 1,200 inches in some years.” Clearly, folks comfortable skiing Rendezvous Bowl and pristine bowls and forested glades go on forever. the Hobacks should consider a vacation with Alaska Rendezvous Heli Guides and find out what all the hype is Box 173, Teton Village, Wy 83025 • 307-733-3274 • Fax 307-733-3529 really about. www.heliskijackson.com • email: [email protected] www.focusproductions. com 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 47 48 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 SKISLOPES Snow King Resort Come Ski the Real One When most folks think of W Jackson Hole, they think, “ski For Over 30 Years resort.” That’s nothing new. But decades before Lunch 11:30-2:30 Teton Village unveiled UNIQUE SANDWICHES its big red box, Snow PHYLLO PIES, HOMEMADE SOUP & SALAD King was the only name on the lips and minds of Dinner 5:30-9:30 VEGETARIAN SPECIALS valley skiers. LAMB, FRESH SEAFOOD, TROUT & STEAK BY JEFF BURKE Extensive wine list Skiing in Jackson evolved during the Full Bar 1920s, when enthusiasm for winter sport Open 7 days a week in the valley first sprouted.Ski jumpers,for sweetwaterrest.com example, would hike or horseback up the Call 733-3553 hill to make their runs down Snow King. Corner of King & Pearl But then Neil Rafferty built a rope tow on Teton Pass, and decided that the town should get the same. And in 1939 he gave Wyoming its first official ski hill. Snow King Resort may be the oldest in the state, but it wasn’t always called Snow King.Until 1949,it was tabbed “Jackson on Snow King Hill.”And from 1983 to 1986, when it was owned by Americana Resorts, it was known as “Americana Snow King.” Today, though, locals endear it with nick- names like “The Kaiser,”“The Legend,”or SKI WYOMING “The Town Hill.” But most simply call it Situated in the midst of the Grand Tetons, Jackson Hole “The King.” Lodge features lodge rooms from $99, deluxe suites and Snow King is by no means a large condominiums from $129. Condos offer full kitchens, washer/dryers, fireplaces and private patios or balconies. resort. Only three chairlifts and one surface tow service the hill. But that doesn’t TWO NIGHT SKI PACKAGES INCLUDE mean it lacks teeth. For years Exhibition, a 2 nights lodging,2 adult ski lift tickets for ski route beneath the summit lift,was con- 2 days, based upon double occupancy sidered the longest, steepest run in the LODGE ROOM ONE BEDROOM FROM CONDOMIUM country.From the top of the summit chair, $ FROM 1,600 feet above the town, Exhibition falls 198 $225 to the valley floor, drawing a skier’s eyes PER PERSON PER PERSON north, toward the stunning vistas of the Additional lift tickets available. Call for longer stay packages. Teton and Gros Ventre ranges. Visit our website for additional information Snow King’s history, though, wouldn’t or to book online. be what it is without preeminent ski jacksonholelodge.com mountaineer Bill Briggs. Dubbed the 800.604.9404 307.733.2992 Another well-loved side of the Snow King experience is its con- “Father of Extreme Skiing,”Briggs set the venience. Drive into the parking lot, and then walk a matter of bar for what was possible, by skiing a “you feet–not blocks–to any of the lifts. When you’re done, ski back fall, you die” route off the summit of the to your car. Some locals even ski home. Grand Teton in 1971. Skiers: BJ Reed, Mark Bradley, and Jim Wilson Briggs grew up skiing in the East with Skier, facing page: Paul Huser feverish enthusiasm. He taught skiing at 420 W. Broadway I PO Box 1805 I Jackson Hole, WY 83001 Tubers: Kent Spence and family Rates based on double occupancy & space availability. Tax additional. Limited time offer. several resorts before landing the lead job www.focusproductions. com 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 49 at Snow King in 1967.Here he developed The Great American Ski School,and its Certainty Training Method, which broke down instruction into a progression of skills. The four main stages are Race, Powder, Crud and, the final one, Sure, which is “to ski with certainty.”Briggs, 79 and seemingly tireless, still teaches every week. And if there’s one thing that’s kept “Brigger”here for 39 years, it’s the terrain. Besides its nearly 1,600 feet of vertical, Snow King claims 400 acres of skiable slope, with 15 percent beginner, 25 percent intermediate, and 60 percent advanced. “The terrain here is pretty unbeatable,” says Jackson Ski Club Director Todd Travis, who leads the town’s ski racing program.“It’s great for our kids. With all the different types of terrain, our kids can go anywhere and not be intimidated.” Snow King’s precipitous upper mountain offers a slew of slopes and gullies, tree shots, and steep, rocky pitches that’ll demand the avid skier’s attention.Its mostly wind-protected, north-facing exposure keeps the King’s snow dry and worthy.And because of the mountain’s 300 acres of grooming, skiers can expect good conditions well after a storm. To the delight of many local ski-racing fans, Snow King’s terrain hasn’t gone unnoticed by the World Cup community.Early season often sees professional teams from around the globe “getting their legs”on Snow King’s slopes, although Snow King last year conquered World Cup champ Bode Miller,who blew out of two early season qualifiers. And the Town Downhill, a favorite local event, is held every March and open to all comers. Competitors race friends or try and keep up with former Olympic champ Tommy Moe. With feature names like “pro bump,”“shitz n’ pantz” and the “steilhang,”the event sounds a bit like the Olympics. Speeds reach nearly 60 mph, and the blowouts can be spectacular. Snow King does sport a friendly side, though, Rafferty. It offers parking adjacent to ski school headquarters, the surface lift, and the Rafferty double chair. And the area is currently getting a face-lift. Some beginner area has been lost to condominium development, notes Mountain Manager Jim Sullivan,but the resort has made adjustments by reconfiguring beginner and intermediate runs that funnel back to Rafferty, and by repositioning the surface lift and ski school headquarters–all to produce a safe, engaging learning environment. “All three of the resorts (in the region) suffer from the image that it’s ‘too tough,’”says Sullivan, who doesn’t necessarily agree with that notion.“We’ve

Snow King’s history wouldn’t be what it is without preeminent ski mountaineer Bill Briggs. Snow King ski school director since 1967, he developed The Great American Ski School, and its Certainty Training Method, which broke down instruction into a progression of skills. The four main stages are Race, Powder, Crud and, the final one, Sure, which is “to ski with certainty.” Briggs, 79 and seemingly tireless, still teaches every week. Skier: Paul Huser

50 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 made an effort to cater more to the beginner.” That effort has been extended to the pocketbook, too. At a time when ski prices are skyrocketing, a $35 ticket will get skiers a full day at Snow King. “We have held our daily ticket price for four years,”says Neighborhood Pub & Grille Sullivan. N In addition, the resort offers a $23 half-day pass and a At the base of Snow King Mountain $17 two-hour pass. The real discount, however, is the $99 pre-season pass price–that’s less than the cost of two days’ Fine Whiskeys skiing at other resorts. 17 Draft Beers W Another well-loved side of the Snow King experience is E its convenience. Drive into the parking lot, and then walk a Choice Steaks, Fresh Seafood, matter of feet–not blocks–to any of the lifts. When you’re Fish & Chips, Burgers ming done,ski back to your car.Some locals even ski home. The e, Wyo on Hol King’s features also appeal to the practical side. - Jacks Cache - “I like that the lifts don’t open till ten,” says Eric 645 S. Donaldson,a local who lives nearby and loves the simplic- 307.733.0043 ity of walking to the lifts. The mid-morning opening also takes the pressure off the powder-morning frenzy, adding time for a couple cups of coffee, or to organize the kids. A huge benefit for school kids and nine-to-fivers, who are otherwise tied up during the day, is night skiing. From Tuesday through Saturday, skiers are invited to the hill from 4 to 8 p.m. to ride the Cougar and Rafferty lifts to mid-mountain and ski above the town’s lights. An evening’s snow shower can create a sublime experience under the lift lights. So visitors can still link ‘Jackson Hole’and ‘ski resort’in the same thought.But Snow King’s colorful history,unique terrain, and in-town convenience fill out that connection. And will for a long time coming.

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• Mountainside hotel Luxurious rental condominiums with the amenities restaurant & bar you would expect from a premier, full-service hotel. 800.533.7669 Snow King Ski Area: 10:00am - 4:00pm daily. 400 E. Snow King Ave. 400 E. Snow King Ave, Jackson, WY 83001 www.loveridgelodge.com 800-522-5464 307-733-5200 [email protected] www.focusproductions. com 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 51 The Twilight ZONE

“There is a fifth dimension beyond that which is known to man. It is a dimension as vast as space and as timeless as infinity. It is the middle ground between light and shadow, between science and superstition, and it lies between the pit of man’s fears, and the summit of his knowledge. This is the dimension of imagination. It is an area which we call ... THE TWILIGHT ZONE.” —Rod Serling Right: Skier Jamie Pierre performs his world-record leap of 250+ feet off Grand Targhee’s backside. Landing on his head wasn’t part of the plan, but surviving such a mishap was well within his calculations. The soft, deep snow broke the fall—rather than his neck. Critics claimed that the botched landing negated the leap’s legitimacy, and bumper stickers saying “Jesus would’ve stuck it!” soon appeared, making light of Jamie’s stated intention for the stunt: “to witness [his] faith in Christ.” Jamie had planned to land on his back, just as theatrical stunt men do when jumping off such heights and landing on giant air bags. But the specific aerodynamics of the situation were untested. He had entered “an area which we call … The Twilight Zone.”

Left: Ski BASE* jumper Erik Roner does two back flips with room to spare, throws his chute, and flies safely into Rock Springs Canyon. For more on Eric, please turn the page and continue your journey into The Twilight Zone. *BASE is an acronym for Building, Antenna, Span, Earth, and thus represents the fixed-objects from which BASE jumps are made.

Photos: Wade McKoy Photo composite: Bob Woodall Jackson Hole Skier Magazine Focusproductions.com Bob Woodall

Ski BASE jumper Erik Roner, working with film makers up and Roner was almost in position.TGR persevered, though, Teton Gravity Research, had been planning to ski off Talk is and one year later finally obtained permission.As soon as con- Cheap hanging snowfield on Cody Peak for two years. The first ditions were right, it would be a “go.”On that day, after every- year’s attempt was thwarted when resort managers called it off, one was in position,the perfect light and zero wind gave way to

becoming aware of the stunt only as the film crew was setting clouds and stiff breezes.The crew was on hold for over an hour, McKoy Wade 54 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 IMO’S DELI Located on Teton Village Rd. @ The Aspens 307-733-6202 Full Service Grocery and Deli Market MEAT DEPARTMENT Natural USDA Choice Beef Natural Pork and Chicken Fresh Fish Semi-prepared Entrees DELI Box Lunch • Boar’s Head products Prepared meals • Fresh pizza Cheeses—Gourmet and Imported GROCERY Ethnic and Natural Foods Organic Dairy & Produce Selections Catering and Party Trays available Your Friendly Westbank Grocer The Westside Store and Imo’s Deli 4015 West Lake Creek Dr. Wilson, WY 83014 Phone 307-733-6202 Fax 307-733-8595 [email protected]

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The biggest and best selection of fine wines, beers and spirits on the West Bank and then the clouds broke and the wind died.Roner skied Roner’s flight had personified and brought into reality Located at off the cliff, threw his chute, and floated to the bottom of Rod Serling’s introduction to his classic television series: The Aspens, Powder 8 Bowl. Ski patrolman Jerry Balint (standing “You’re traveling through another dimension, a dimen- Teton Village Rd. below Roner in bottom left photo), who was the safety sion not only of sight and sound but of mind; a journey 307-733-5038 officer on site,skied up to Roner and took his pulse,which into a wondrous land whose boundaries are that of the was 56.“He was cool, like it was nothing,”Balint said. imagination. Next stop: THE TWILIGHT ZONE.” [email protected]

www.focusproductions. com 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 55 SKISLOPES Grand Targhee & Teton Valley The“other side”of the Pilot Knobs* eton Valley, Idaho, “the quiet side of the Tetons,” T has become a destination hotspot all its own. With no shortage of recreational, cultural, and resort opportunities, it’s no wonder. BY JOE WILHELM The valley’s charming towns of Victor, Driggs, and Tetonia, Idaho, lie just to the west of 8,429-foot Teton Pass, whose westbound travelers sometimes nearly run off the road when the Tetons loom into view.And just about the time they regain their com- posure, visitors gasp when Grand Targhee’s powder fields appear at the feet of these incredible peaks. Targhee’s loyal followers know how to appreciate the 500 inches of billowy snow the resort accumu- lates annually. The resulting bounty of powder days is attended to by skiers and staff with a laid-back attitude. Its friendly atmosphere and outstanding snow are just two reasons world-class skiers keep Targhee on their schedules. “It consistently offers the best early season skiing in the country,”said Eric DesLauriers, whose X- Team extreme-skiing clinics have taken place at Targhee for the past 14 years. “It’s a great place to learn how to ski powder, and it is consistently one of our most popular clinics.” Early season storms routinely hammer the Tetons, and equal amounts of good snow can be

The Pilot Knobs, one of the early trappers’ *various names for the Tetons, serve as a backdrop for these happy skiers.

56 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 :?8E><:FD

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www.focusproductions. com 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 57 found off either side of the Dreamcatcher chair- of snow sliders, it’s big enough for the family to lift. To the left, traverse across Chief Joseph Bowl spread out in, yet it doesn’t take a satellite tele- down to the Blackfoot chairlift and do laps near phone to call everyone back to the base for lunch. the North Boundary. To the right, follow the cat Jibbers can drop into the constantly evolv- track past the ski patrol ing terrain park at shack for about 200 yards Grand Targhee. Opened and then head for the trees during the 2002-03 sea- down in the gully. The son, it was designed trees should offer some and implemented by windbreak and better Boise’s Planet Snow vision down the hill. Tools, which also devel- After skiing out from oped the terrain park between Fred’s and Peaked for the 2002 Salt Lake mountains, slide on over Olympics. Targhee’s to the Sacajawea chairlift. Pro skiers Sean Crossen (above), Alex features a table-top rail, Peaked Mountain is small- Hassman (previous page), and Jason rainbow rail, flat-down er than Fred’s is,so it does- Tattersall (left) hide out in Targhee’s flat, flat-down rail, backcountry powder stashes. n’t stay as cloudy, or mailbox rail, helmet “nuked in”as locals say.This area has a lot more hill, flat rail, spine hill, and some fun boxes. The gladed sections to provide that important wind park can be accessed by taking the Shoshone lift cover, but vacationers shouldn’t be scared away to the Big Scout trail. by the depth of snow if they haven’t skied pow- After a terrain-packed ski day at Grand der before. The Grand Targhee Ski School fea- Targhee, the drive back through Teton Valley tures a group of expert instructors, including includes a pleasant tug of war between perusing George Mosher, Mike Dronen, and Melissa the charming shops in Victor and Driggs and Pangraze, who are listed among Ski magazine’s merely gazing out the car window at the Tetons Top 100 ski instructors in North America. bathed in the setting sun’s ethereal light. Grand Targhee may be a preferred powder Obviously,“quiet” in Teton Valley has taken on a plot for the local powder-hound set, but more new meaning, and lucky skiers are among those and more families are making the drive from air- taking advantage of it. ports in Jackson Hole and Idaho Falls.With 2,000 Joe Wilhelm is a writer and editor living in lift-served acres available to all shapes and sizes Teton Valley.

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58 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 STORMSTORM SHOWSHOW STUDIOSSTUDIOS One man, his friends, and a common goal

ut ski movies, fall, and Jackson PPHole in the same sentence, and a raging World Premier party can’t be far behind. You might miss half the action, though, unless you live here. On the national scene, Teton Village-based Teton Gravity Research (TGR) is highly regarded. And it’s no wonder, with 18 films, the Untracked TV series, and a clothing line. TGR creates a big wake, utilizing big crews, bigger budgets, and exotic travel. Their Jackson Hole movie premier packs in the usual suspects. Below, Darrell Miller sits at his editing bay. Above, an unidentified paraglider floats past Cody Bowl. The other annual Jackson Hole ski flick world premiere might be missing That’s life. But these are mad hours. the industry hoopla, but the party is What is the most rewarding aspect? just as big and just as rowdy. Storm Seeing people stoked. The audience Show Studios’ home-grown mountain feedback has been positive. I think that’s films, shot entirely in the Tetons on what most artists crave–feedback, tiny budgets and with tiny crews, show whether positive or negative. I wouldn’t that local rippers and cameramen can be doing it without the audience. How do you approach a cinema proj- I don’t think any- ect? Where are you coming from? There are two different aspects: body has ever filming and editing. With filming, I don’t really have a vision of the edited seen a ski BASE product–I just shoot as much as I can jump with the throughout the winter. Spring comes around and I sift through the footage. skier outrunning When it comes time to edit, I let the If I take a year off I can regroup, and in Jackson. We’d talked about the pos- an avalanche film tell its own story. I try not to mess hopefully make an even better ski flick. sibility of filming skiers from a with it too much. For you, what stands out about each paraglider, but it was always talk, no before takeoff. action. Two-thousand-six proved to be What got you started in this line of film? different. We gave it a shot and it work? I think the films document an era worked out perfectly, where the alterna- say just as much, and be just as cool My passion for wanting to work in in Jackson Hole that will never be tive could have been crash n’ burn, a and classy, as the big dogs. the mountains as my career. It’s defi- repeated. It’s a pleasure to have made wasted day of filming. There’s so We asked Storm Show Studios’ nitely been a long road. It wasn’t paid these films while the old tram was still many variables involved: the weather, Darrell Miller, 31, about his produc- work for a couple years. Now it’s come in action. Once the new tram comes the skier in action, the pilot’s flying tion of six mountain films in seven around to full-time work, a living, not in, it’s going to be a different mountain abilities, and my camera work. To years, and his latest work, Trial & Air just ski films but video in with a different crowd of skiers and have it work out the way it did, really (www.stormshow.com). general–weddings, commercials, ran- riders. The era of Storm Show films, set the tone for Trial & Air, hence the What about the work is most fun? dom editing projects. from 2000-2006, took place during a beautiful time in the history of Jackson title of the film. Another highlight Being in the mountains with my Where will you go from here? that makes T&A different from the rest friends, sharing adventures, document- Hole skiing, and it’s been an honor for I take it one season at a time. I me to be a part of it. is Combs’s ski BASE (Building, ing our days, creating something to know I’m here this winter. I’ve never Antenna, Span, Earth) jump off Cody show our grandkids. committed to making a movie until How is your latest film, Trial & Air, Peak. It’s absolutely mind-blowing, I Least fun? the footage is in at the end of the win- different from the rest? don’t think anybody has ever seen a ski Editing, sitting at the computer all ter. But I’m looking forward to a sum- Trial & Air started out as just BASE jump with the skier outrunning summer, watching your friends go out mer away from it. Ski films take a another JH ski flick, until I hooked up an avalanche before takeoff. Those two to fish and bike. I haven’t had a sum- whole lot of time and don’t make much with Matt Combs from Jackson Hole reasons are why I made another film mer for six years. People gotta work. money. I’m in it for the other reasons. Paragliding. I grew up with Matt here this year, plain and simple. —fpi

www.focusproductions. com 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 59 SKISLOPES Pinedale & White Pine Resort Along the Wind River Range grew up skiing. My parents had me on the ski hill at age six, struggling with hand- I me-down wooden skies and lace-up boots. And although we skied for fun and competed with our friends, by high school, my siblings and I had long surpassed our parents in skill. BY ANN NOBLE As I grew older, though, a career and children edged out my time on the slopes, but not my love of the sport. Now I’d like to instill that same love of skiing in my kids. I married a rancher and live near Pinedale, and thanks to White Pine Ski Area, my family can create its own fond memories of skiing right here in cowboy country. White Pine Ski Area was built in 1938 by Sonny Korfanta, whose daughter Karen skied for the U.S.Olympic team.Originally built and operated solely by locals, it featured just one run until the early 1960s, when a tow lift was added and more runs were cut.The resort operated in this simple fashion until financial problems forced a shutdown in the spring of 1984. Now, thanks in part to the vision of longtime Wyomingite Stuart Thompson, and after 17 years of dedicated work, the resort operates yearly. “White Pine is trying to bring a new dimension to how people think about Powder stashes linger for days at White Pine.

Max Lundberg and Lee Straley enjoy fresh alpine groomers (left), while (above) the resort’s groomed cross-country lanes beckon ski tourers. Fred Pflughoft Bob Woodall ski photos Bob Woodall

60 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 skiing in the West,“ says Thompson.“When people think of skiing in the West, they think of Alta, Jackson Hole, Targhee,and Whistler all in the same breath,”he continues. “We’re trying to bring something additional to the ‘Ski Jackon Hole’ orbit.” And Thompson should know: his ski industry experience includes 20 seasons at Alta (Utah). “We have a nice family area, where it’s easier to keep track of your children,”he notes,but adds that the White Pine ski area is “not a beginning ski area,”although “it has plenty of beginner terrain.”The main lift is, after all, almost a mile long. Thompson again stresses that White Pine is “a user- friendly place; it’s not an intimidating place. We’re heavily groomed and our trails are consistent.You don’t start down a beginner trail and end up above a cliff face.” He recognizes that the West needs a more complete picture of what skiing presents to the rest of the country. “We’re not looking to compete with Jackson Hole,Targhee, and Snow King, but rather we’re trying to create skiers who will eventually ski Enjoy paradise in the the steeps of Wind River Mountains at a Jackson Hole.” Located ten resort becoming a destination. miles northeast of Pinedale, With a relaxing atmosphere Wyoming, in the Bridger- and reasonable prices.prices, Teton Nat ional White Pine captures the Forest, White Pine’s high alti- small town feel with big city tude and con- conveniences.

Ben Franklin sistent storms Ted Porwoll with brook trout make for a long ski season. The lifts open on Thanksgiving and don’t quit This no-lines, until Easter–and skiers enjoy fresh powder throughout the long season. family-friendly resort has The resort’s altitude and views are breathtaking. The something for everyone. ski hill’s summit is in the Wind River Mountains, and skiers can see the Wyoming and Gros Ventres ranges and Utah’s Uintas. Just ten miles above White Pine’s diverse terrain embraces over 25 runs. Pinedale, Wyoming. And unlike most ski resorts, where the “bunny hill” is far away from the challenging runs,White Pine’s beginner lift runs parallel to the Great Spirit Lift, which takes more Come up and advanced skiers to the resort’s top. So, after encouraging her kids for a few runs or leaving them with one of the join the excitement. experienced ski instructors, mom gets to enjoy her own runs while still being able to watch the youngsters, and maybe even join them on the tail end of her run. That makes it the kind of place where the kids and I can have a great day together. Even dad, who has chosen to stick with Nordic skiing in his middle age, can join us for a day’s skiing. Several kilometers of cross-country trails are near the resort,so we park the car only once to reach everyone’s starting point. These well-groomed Nordic trails also cover a variety of terrain,taking the skier through winding paths of peaceful pine groves and open-meadow patches,and over challenging inclines and declines. The views from these trails are priceless, but there’s no charge to ski on them. 307. 367.6606 Gone are the days, naturally, when I could ski all day White Pine Ski Area & Bridger-Teton National Forest PartnersWhite Pine Ski Area in Skiing. & Bridger-Teton without a break. In my middle age I appreciate a warm www.whitepineski.com National Forest PartnersWhite Pine Ski Area in Skiing. & Bridger-Teton spot, where the kids and I can get a reasonably priced

www.focusproductions. com 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 61 Fred Pflughoft

Spectacular powder fields above White Pine‘s chairlifts remain fresh many days after a storm.

lunch. We’re well taken care of in White Pine’s new now be open for lunch, après ski, and dinner, featur- central location, the lodge works well as a take-off lodge, where the open dining area of the White Pine ing a full menu and bar. The 12,000-square foot, and gathering point for groups. Grill is passed up for deck dining only on those three-story building is located at the base of the The lodge is also home to the Max Lundberg Ski warm, blue-sky days. The Grub Steak restaurant will alpine ski lifts and near the Nordic trails. Given its School, which offers private and groups lessons in skiing or snowboarding. The White Pine Ski Shop and Rental is also located there, making the ski trip to White Pine easy and convenient. Nonskiers are also welcome at the lodge, where, as spectators, they can enjoy the views out the giant windows facing the ski hills and runs. The lodge has also become a community gathering place for private parties. A trip to White Pine is worth a weekend’s stay. It’s hard to believe that a town without a stoplight has everything a visitor might need,but somehow Pinedale does. Still small enough to offer old-fashioned, small- town hospitality, Pinedale boasts that it’s also large enough to have “all the civilization you need!” Variety best describes Pinedale’s accommodations. The new Cabins at White Pine, genuine hand-crafted log cabins, offer 2-bedroom lodging combinations at the ski area with hot tub and whirlpool. Pinedale itself boasts cozy bed and breakfasts, cabins, and large-chain and

Bob Woodall small motels. Most are located in town and within walk- The Continental Divide Snowmobile Trail runs through Pinedale along the Wind River Range. ing distance to shops and restaurants. Some are away

Located at the Phillips 66 on the North end of Stockman’s Pinedale. EAT HERE! GET GAS! Restaurant & Lounge • Package Liquor Store Open 5am to 10pm Daily Office & Hotel Suites (307)367-6717 • Breakfast selections • Pastries • Fresh hot coffee • Subs • • Sandwiches • Salads • Fresh Soup & Hot Chili • Lunch & Dinner Specials Daily. GREAT Pizza, served all day! Propane. Ice. ATM. 117 W. Pine • 307-367-4563 / 367-4562 PINEDALE’S LARGEST SELECTION OF DELI MEATS & CHEESES TRIPLE AAA DIAMOND RATED 2001

62 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 from town, though, for those who prefer less “civilization.” Dining is a delight in the town where the restaurants are still locally owned and the meals home-cooked. The price range will satisfy the budget minded as well as those seeking a fine-wining-and-dining experience where menus rival cosmopolitan areas. But the town doesn’t offer restaurant chains, so don’t come looking for a McDonald’s or a KFC. If someone in your group wants to come on the trip, but not spend the day skiing, there’s plenty to do in town. There’s always “real Western” shopping on Main Street, a great place to pick up Western clothing, a new pair of boots, or genuine Western art, pottery, or unique Western home decor.And everyone can take in a movie at either of the town’s two cinemas. A summer favorite, the nationally recognized Museum of the Mountain Man, is open in the winter by appointment only. But it’s an appointment worth making. The museum features exhibits on fur trade, western exploration, Plains Indians, and early settlement history of western Wyoming. . . . there’s plenty to do in town. There’s always real Western shopping .PVOUBJO.BO$PVOUSZJT on Main Street, a great place to pick up a new pair of boots, or genuine i#FUUFSUIBO:FMMPXTUPOFw Western art . . .

The Pinedale area is also a well-established play- GPS8JOUFS"EWFOUVSF ground for snowmobilers.The famous Continental Divide Snowmobile Trail (CDST) runs through Pinedale. This 345-mile trail takes the sledder through open spaces, 'SPNTDFOJDHSPPNFEUSBJMTUP forests, wildlife-viewing areas, and over the ridges of stunning mountain ranges. Snowmobile rentals and out- XJEFPQFOQPXEFSmFMETBOE fitters are available in Pinedale for those wanting to sled IFBSUQPVOEJOHDPSOJDFKVNQJOH on the CDST or just in the surrounding hills. Even dogs like Pinedale,a stop on the annual UIF$POUJOFOUBM%JWJEFBOE International Pedigree Stage Stop Dog Sled Race.When the 8ZPNJOH3BOHFUSBJMTIBWFJUBMM dogs arrive, most of the population of the town and surrounding communities line the race course. The famous 4FUVQZPVSCBTFDBNQJOPOFPG dog teams and mushers who participate in this race make PVSDP[ZDBCJOTBMPOHUIFUSBJM the event a worthwhile spectator sport and round out a wealth of offerings that would make any town proud. PSBDPNGPSUBCMFNPUFMJOUPXO For most folks, Pinedale, Wyoming, really is “all the CSJOHZPVSTLJTPSCPBSEGPS civilization you need.” BEBZBU8IJUF1JOF Ann Noble, her husband, and four daughters live in Cora,Wyoming,where they operate a family cattle ranch.

The LODGE 4VCMFUUF$PVOUZ7JTJUPS$FOUFS AT PINEDALE • Indoor Pool & Jacuzzi 1JOFEBMF 8ZPNJOH • Free Continental Breakfast • Free High-Speed Internet • Refrigerator and microwave in every room • Located minutes from White Pine Ski Area 307-367-8800 .PVOUBJO.BO$PVOUSZDPN Locally Owned & Managed West Hwy 191 in Pinedale • 1054 W. Pine St. Pinedale, WY 82941 Reservations 1-866-995-6343 www.focusproductions. com 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 63 Remembering DOUG COOMBS

riend, colleague, and ski icon Doug Coombs lost his life last spring while skiing in the French FAlps. He is survived by his wife Emily and son David. Doug touched thousands of lives through his skiing, climbing, guiding, and teaching. Hundreds of those stories are posted online at dougcoombsmemorialfund.com, and in magazines and newspapers around the globe. Here are a few more remembrances from his soul mates in Jackson Hole. —the publishers Howard Henderson In the 1980s, Teton Video owner “Hollywood” Henderson recuited Doug for a cameraman position in order to bolster the ranks of his company’s ski-racing team. Founders of the Jackson Hole Air Force, Howard and his crew filmed one another extensively, and compiled the footage in a roots ski flick entitled Live to Ski the Big One. When I think back, there are a few skiers whose style really stood out when I first saw them. Their names don’t matter. They’re just images that I‘ve always tried to emulate in my own skiing. When I think about Dougie, I get an image of the first time I saw him. He was skiing! I was on Thunder with my Powder 8 partner Dave Miller. He had mentioned Doug to me, thought he would make a Summit of Mount Glory, Teton Pass, WY, 1980s good vidiot (ski patrol term for camera- Summit of Mount Vinson, Antarctica, 1999 still had a long way to go.Everything that skiing was yet man). On the way down he pointed up at the Cirque to become—extreme skiing, backcountry, Alaska, La Chute and said,“Look! It’s him!” Grave, open gate, guiding skiers on the Grand—was I’ll never forget that moment. He was flowing within him. He was the crest of the wave. down the fall line. The image of Dougie—grace, style, When you get close to the crux, think about vision, route-finding, angles, athleticism, and most of Dougie’s turn. all, the immaculate PSIA pole-plant—was seared into my memory. Rick Hunt I don’t think it was effortless. Dougie expended Rick skied with Doug during the JH Air Force years energy when he skied or climbed, just less than most and in Bozeman during college. In the nineties Rick and everybody else.And he smiled a lot. Doug shared some “really excellent” filming adventures We waited for him, and I begged him to be a vidiot in The Tetons, Alaska, and Canada. on the spot. He accepted, and it was a time that all of us One time at Bridger Bowl, Doug and I were skiing in the Jackson Hole Air Force were extremely lucky to Hidden Gully. I had made it through the crux and share. Doug shredded the lower faces with us every day. stopped in a safe place. Doug shot through the narrows The man was simply so damn good that seeing him and flew by me as I stood there quivering, trying not to ski changed your whole life. I think Doug’s style move and disrupt his flow. Most people, me included, embodied all that skiing had become. The Arlberg would have done a hip check to shed all the heat he was technique had reached its zenith. carrying, but not Doug. He skied through all the gawk- At the same time, you got the impression that he ing people standing at the bottom like they were super- The Tetons, Wyoming, 2005

64 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 “The man was simply so damn good that seeing him ski changed your whole life. I think Doug’s style embodied all that skiing had become. The Arlberg technique had reached its zenith.” Gabe Rogel, left & right right and two above McKoy, Wade Jonathan Selkowitz With son David in La Grave, France, 2006 Happy Top, Chugach Mtns, Alaska, 1992 With wife Emily, City of Rocks, Idaho, 1999 www.focusproductions. com 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 65 the 1991-92 World Extreme Ski Championships. It was Super Bowl Sunday, and I had just returned from a stint in Hollywood working in the film industry, and hadn’t skied yet that season. The first person I ran into on the tram dock was Doug. He was always showing up just when I thought he would. “Oh, man,” I thought, having come from sea level the day before,“I’m gonna get my ass kicked!” Doug wanted to ski Central Couloir from the top of Cody Peak.The exit was pretty damn big because it was a relatively low snow year, but I was game. As usual he was super fired up,so instead of entering the traditional route, he decided on an alternate entrance. The skiers-left entrance to the main body of Central is an east-facing series of tight chutes, preced- ed by a snowfield of similar length. His style was to make more rather than fewer turns, so about halfway down the snowfield, making just “one more turn” before entering one of the chutes, the snowfield started to slough out, running like a river. The consequences would have been heavy if he had not got caught sideways in one of the chutes, the snow cascading over his shoulders. With his skis totally Summit of Grand Teton, 2005 G gates, and when it opened up a bit, he began to shut wise stressful situations cheerful.I always felt a bit more it down. That’s when I saw the magic—him dumping secure carrying Doug Coombs in my jacket pocket. speed amidst the rock walls in an off-fall line dog- Mark Newcomb legged couloir, on old school 810 K2s. Talk about sensi- Mark first got to really know Doug when the two of tive edge control! Doug feathered the edges ever so them made the first descent of the Otterbody Route on slightly, until he began slowing down. He ended up the Grand Teton. Doug hired Mark as head of avalanche coming to a stop down at the last dogleg amongst a forecasting for Valdez Heli-ski Guides, where they shared group of speechless people. The whole chute was quiet. Gabe Rogel, top left & right many glorious days heli-skiing. Doug had left his mark, quelling any vibrations that Throughout time, heroes and gods have found attempted to bounce off the limestone walls. places in the night sky, depicted by constellations. One Thomas Turiano quiet night in early June, I lay gazing at the stars, pick- Tom first met Doug at Snow King in the mid-1980s ing out mythical characters and pondering legends. Is when Tom worked with the Great American Ski School there, I wondered, any among us today who might and Doug worked with the Jackson Hole Ski Club. In the merit a constellation? 1990s, Tom coached with Doug for the Doug Coombs One I’ve gotten to know more than most is Orion, Steep Skiing camps. In addition to sharing a few fun the mighty hunter. On long fall nights, high in the climbs, the pair guided together for the Exum Ski Himalaya, I’ve spent countless pre-dawn hours watch- Mountaineering Camps from 1993 until 2002. For the ing him drift into the eastern horizon. Coombs had past seven years they guided together at the ski area with many qualities eerily similar to Orion. Doug combed Jackson Hole Alpine Guides and in the Tetons with Exum the ends of the earth hunting for powder and beautiful Mountain Guides. lines; Orion was also a hunter without a rival.Both,too, I remember how cool it was when we first used enjoyed wine and a rollicking good time. Like Doug, McKoy 2,4,5 Wade radios to communicate while guiding.Doug was guiding Orion lords over winter, rising in the fall, fading in the Patriot Hills, Antarctica, 1999 the Glacier Route on the Middle and I was guiding the spring, exactly opposite from his mortal enemy, north face of Spalding Peak.We chatted about conditions Scorpius. Orion perished from the sting of this tiny and techniques the whole way up. Like a little kid with scorpion. Doug, it turns out, was born under rising his first walkie-talkie,Doug was goofy over the airwaves. Orion, in the fall, and he died under rising Scorpius, in My group was gearing up for our descent from the the spring, stung by one small slip in a spot no more summit when Doug announced on the radio that he was precarious than thousands of others from which he’d just reaching the Dike Col on the Middle. He was so emerged without a scratch. excited that we could wave and yodel to each other As I slip into the netherworld on the cusp of sleep, across the mile-wide gap of Garnet Canyon south fork. a huge slough rips across the heavens.Doug’s calm As Paul Nash and I belayed our nervous group down the voice, as if over a radio, remarks that indeed, it’s only a top pitch, Doug radioed humorous running commen- slough, no one involved, merely a “class one.” That tary that kept our entire group in high spirits. The slough, the Milky Way—somewhere up there is the clients all skied in their best Coombs form because they constellation that triggered that thing, fluidly stepping knew he was watching them from across the canyon. out of harm’s way and skiing into eternity. On numerous other descents, Doug and I worked John Gute together to belay large groups of people,pitch after pitch John was one of the first wave of heli-skiers in Valdez, of skiing down gnarly couloirs. The radio was a non- AK, in the early 90s, and met Doug while competing in Tsaina Lodge ice cave, with Emily, John Gute, and stop conduit of information and jokes that kept other- Jon Hunt, 1992

66 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 flexed to their maximum, tips and tails on rock, he was Praying, I started off the top and an avalanche of bottom, we rounded everybody up and looked back up talking to himself in his usual manner. After it mel- snow pushed me to the mandatory air.I flew off the cliff the slope. Doug was starting down, skiing out in the lowed out,he made it through. He looked up at me, and landed in waist-deep snow, going way too fast. middle of the bowl, picking up speed and sending up laughing, and yelled,“Don’t tell Emily!!!” Below, Newc and Coombs were both screaming at me this terrific rooster tail. Over the top. Just an incredible Theo Meiners over the radio,“No!”I was too far right and heading for ending to the day. a 2000-foot cliff. I corrected my line and followed Pulling up to us, Doug was beaming and laughing Theo Meiners met Doug Coombs while skiing Once is Coomba’s tracks. Skiing through a labyrinth of glacial hysterically. His arm went up to high-five me and we Enough couloir in the Jackson Hole backcountry, which cracks near the bottom, I accidentally skied off a serac, slapped hands. Then he shouted, “We should do that led to a night with the Mug Club at the Bear Claw Café, fell through the air and slammed down onto the slope. again! That was great!” celebrating another epic day beyond the ropes. Doug was there, giving praise of the flight and Mike looked at Jerry,Jerry looked at Doc,who looked I had just arrived in Valdez to help Doug and Emily laughing so hard it must have echoed all the way to over at Woody.Woody cocked his head at me, I looked at Coombs and Mark Newcomb set up operations for the Anchorage. Confused and pissed-off, I looked at his Alex, who hit his brother Ben. Ben turned to Mark and Valdez Heli Ski Guides season.Our plan was to helicop- tracks, which showed he had skied twice the air and exclaimed,“We’re going up! We’re going up again!” ter-ski our way up to the Tsaina Lodge,making as many stomped the landing. He had tried to get me to stop, Then everyone started laughing. Just a moment runs as possible.Soon after takeoff Doug pointed to his and when I couldn’t,he just started laying on the praise. before, we had been dead tired and wishing to go back first objective.He picked a big one,and I was more than to the lodge. But with the arrival of Doug’s laughter, we were all transformed. That’s what Doug could do to a “...with the arrival of Doug’s laughter, we were all group. His enthusiasm was infectious. John Griber transformed. That’s what Doug could do to a John got to know who Doug was in the early 90s by sharing heli rides in Alaska, trams in Jackson Hole, and group. His enthusiasm was infectious.” base camps in the Tetons and Kyrgyzstan, Asia.

La Grave, France, 2006 Verbier, Switzerland, 1998 a little concerned—Meteorite! During the summer of 1996, Doug, Emily, and I We skied to the bottom, where Em and Ken, the I exited the aircraft slowly,hoping this was not real- were hired for a ski and snowboard mountaineering pilot, were resting.We looked back for Newc, and there ly happening on the first run. I turned and motioned film in Kyrgyzstan for Outdoor Life Network. This was he was, dicing another impossible way down. I prayed for Em to get out.She shook her head “No,”stayed in the my first experience climbing at altitude, and also my for another good season and that I could ski with these helicopter, and waved to us as it took off. Her refusal first travels to developing countries where the food guys forever, my friends. gave me additional pause: too steep, too deep, ava- wasn’t quite what I was used to.Between the three of us, lanche potential, and mandatory air—an absolutely Benjamin Wilson one was constantly battling some type of stomach ail- no-fall, no-mistake, 6100-vertical-foot run. Benny skied with Doug in the Jackson Hole back- ment, which was also compounded by the fact that Newc went first, laying down the law, making country and coached with him at Doug Coombs Steep most of our time was spent above 14,000 feet.Doug and aggressive turns down the gut to the cliff. Off he went, and Deep camps. I were each other’s stomach barometers. If Doug was gone from sight, large clouds of avalanching snow bil- The helicopter lifted off and left us in a cloud of sick, I knew I would be down within the next 12 hours, lowing into the heavens. white bluster.As the “thwap, thwap, thwap”of the blades and vice versa. Doug said,“Wow! That’s cool, look at all the snow, faded away,we assessed the run below.Two feet of tasty We were familiar with HAPE (high altitude pul- Theo. Are you sure you don’t want the next line?” “pow”had fallen onto the 50-degree slope the previous monary edema) and HACE (high altitude cerebral I was sure.The champ took off and screamed down night.We were on our 14th run, on day five of a seven- edema).We soon learned of another Third World,high- this immortal run, arcing another great line of free-fall day heli binge, and all of us were near exhaustion. altitude aliment, and given our sometimes-dire gastric steep skiing, avalanches blowing. Over the radio I The run down Mad Cow was epic, truly a great last situations, we dubbed it HASA (high-altitude squirt heard,“Great snow. Theo, you’re up.” run of the day,the light turning a dreamy golden.At the alert). Since then, I doubt there was a time we were all www.focusproductions. com 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 67 think he was one of the masters at find- Scot Schmidt ing a great adventure in bad weather Scot attended Montana State University and skied and conditions. He would talk of all the with Coombs there and in Alaska. He got to know great parts of the day and brag about Coombs best when they worked together as stunt doubles the people he was doing them with and for Aspen Extreme. what they did (especially Emily). He A human life, I think, should be well committed to had this ability to bring the best out of the pursuit of one’s passion and the fulfillment of one’s his clients.It was amazing how he could dreams. The value of life, and the pleasure of living can keep their heads in the game. only be realized when you joyfully face your calling. When you worked with Dougie, one Doug was committed and had more passion for his of the first things you noticed was that dream than anyone I know. He has fallen, and we feel he was very human.What I mean is that the loss, the stirring of emotions, what it means, sor- he’d forget his goggles or his hat. Some row,perhaps.But he has fulfilled a wonderful life.When days he’d have the biggest junk show I relive our time shared in the mountains, I recall his going, but I don’t think it ever stopped joy and humor, our uncontrollable laughter, and the the adventure from happening. Once he blissful runs of sparkling powder. was together, though, you’d better be His presence in the mountains was remarkable. He ready—or he was gone. will be missed and carried in our thoughts. I’ll never forget paddling over to ski Jack Shaw the CMC couloir on Moran. We couldn’t find two good canoes at the Exum office. Jack came to Jackson Hole in 1994 with a lot to learn. Bill, Hans, and I were in one canoe and He was lucky enough to get a few lessons from the Doug was in a kayak with a canoe paddle. Maestro himself. It was dark (12:30 a.m.) and he was going When I arrived in Jackson Hole during the early 90s, in circles while hitting every rock in Coombs was already a legend. I would see him a couple String Lake.When he wasn’t yelling for us of chairs ahead with Bartlett, or the Hunt or Zell broth- to wait, all you could hear was his crazy ers, and try and follow them for a few runs until they reverse laugh. totally ditched me, oblivious that I was even there at all. That night in the bar I would confidently tell anyone Mike Fischer who would listen that I skied with Coombs today. A Mike worked with Doug as a heli - bunch of us did that. He was our idol. guide in Wyoming and Alaska and Then I went to AK and had him as a guide. He was the two shared many great days in always stoked to hook the Jackson boys up as much as the mountains. he could, even if it meant wadding up the logistics of Doug and our crew of guides were the whole heli op (much to Emily’s chagrin). He styled stuck in Valdez. It was snowing like we had never seen. The town’s snow “The man was totally without removal equipment was abandoned in the streets. Storm total: 108” in 30 ego and just wanted to pass hours! The mountains were roaring with avalanches. Nobody could get up along the same stoke he always the pass to help protect the helicopters. Jeff Zell (guide) and the pilots were had, to show people how cool his stuck at the airstrip desperately trying world was and yours could be.” to keep aircraft from being buried. A couple days later the roads us and put me on top of the scariest shit I have ever opened and we were amazed at the ava- skied. But it taught me a lot and made me want to get lanche debris. Unbelievably, a D9 Cat better at it. Hidden Gully on The Ridge, Bridger Bowl, Montana, 1980s had been avalanched into the ocean Then I went to the Alps, where his wholehearted while working on roads. tutelage made me realize I wanted to become a ski together that the grim tales of the “HASA”expedition Could we go into the mountains after such a storm? mountaineer and just how big the mountain world was. weren’t brought up. With Doug’s huge smile he would Doug said,“Let’s find out.”So we did what we must: a He became a mentor. get everyone laughing when he retold our sometimes- recon. And finally, in these last few years before my sea- grim tales of this trip. Doug had a way of making light Doug and I were one team that flew up to evaluate sonal trips to Europe, we occasionally skied a run or of even the most difficult situations. the conditions. The data from our snow pits looked two together at home.He would ask me if I knew where Kent McBride bad,and we didn’t exactly have a safe route down.Doug the snow was good over there,where I was going,and if Kent worked at Exum Mountain Guides, the Jackson and I played Rock, Paper, Scissors to see who would ski there were any new places I wanted to tell him about. Hole Ski Resort,and Valdez Heli Ski Guides for more than first.Doug lost.He jokingly said,“If this doesn’t go well, Him asking me? Come on! But he had become a friend. seven years with Doug. it’s been nice knowing you.” Then,this summer,Emily told me,“All you guys say Most people knew about Dougie’s magic while ski- Well,we got down fine.And,yes,it has been incred- stuff like that.But Doug never thought of it that way.He ing. For instance, that amazing up and down mixed ible knowing Doug. just thought you were friends all along.” with the side-to-side motion that allowed him to Over the next few days the snow became stable and The man was totally without ego and just wanted to absorb any feature.And the quick noodle turns that he those lucky enough to be there had the skiing of their pass along the same stoke he always had, to show peo- made look so easy. lives. Doug said that if we live to be 100, we will never ple how cool his world was and yours could be. have skiing like that again. I don’t know if I’ll live to be Many will tell about his incredible psych.And we all Tomoko Okazaki should. Dougie never had bad days in the mountains. I 100, but I’ll keep looking for another 100-year storm and always remember the one I got to share with Doug. Tomo met Doug Coombs in Valdez during his first

68 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 everybody on the 1999 Antarctica Ski and Snowboard Expedition. But Coombs beat me, easily making it to 20. When Doug woke up alone in his tent,I heard him start talking. Non-stop. Thinking out loud, psyched that he’d slept for 20 hours, planning the day. We had climbed and skied Mount Vinson, and had just flown back to Patriot Hills for our flight off the continent, when it hit—the infamous katabatic storm. For several days we got pounded by 100-mph wind and snow, and Dirk Collins and I wanted to film someone struggling through it. We asked for a volunteer and Doug immediately said,“I’ll go.”We had a blast. Stuck in Patriot Hills for almost two weeks by this storm, and about to miss Christmas at home, we finally got a window of good weather. The C130 Hercules had taken off in Punta Arenas,Chile,and should land on the blue ice runway in six hours. For Doug, it was time for one more run. Anne, the outfitter, looked worried. Please don’t be late,she admonished Doug and me, Teton Pass, WY, 1995 adding,“We can not, will not, wait for you.” We skated a couple miles across the year as a guide. She went on to spend many winters in of his phenomenal skiing success? All I know is that he hard,dimpled,blue-ice runway,reached the Jackson Hole and springs in Valdez. passed along wisdom that made me a better skier, con- Patriot Hills, and walked around looking at rocks. Just like everyone else must say, all the best days I tinues to make me a better skier, and seems to be the Doug, using his college degree in geology, showed me had in Chugach were pretty much with Doug. He was a key to understanding the language he was speaking some noteworthy specimens. true guide, the master of it, and I trusted his judgment with his skis. We climbed a steep ridge, maybe a couple thousand one-hundred percent.He made me feel so safe and con- It was in the early ’90s, during Coombs’s inaugural vert,and Doug waited for me to catch up at the best spots fident out there, and that made me ride better. steep-skiing camp in Jackson Hole. I’d met Doug in to shoot. Photography was one of his hobbies. He would push you just enough to scare you and get 1991 on top of some knife ridge in the Chugach, during At the top,with no time to waste,we worked on a few the adrenalin pumping, but never push you so much the first World Extreme Skiing Championships. I met a ski shots and hurriedly skied and skated back to camp. that you felt uncomfortable. whole bunch of people on Thompson Pass for the first When I arrived, far behind Doug, the other stranded One particular day is stuck in my mind when I time—Dean Cummings, Jim Conway, the Gute broth- campers were standing outside looking up,hoping to see think of Doug. ers—but Doug was in a class by himself, without atti- a plane appear in the enormous sky. An hour later it It was a full, long day,with lots of first descents and tude, as enthusiastic as a kid, and the last person to came with a glorious, thundering roar. steep runs.We got dropped off for the last run very late state the truth,which is that he was the best skier there. Doug Coombs knew how to seize the day and make in the day, between Stairway to Heaven and Diamond. Anyway, it was a year or so after WESC and we were every moment count. The sun was setting over the mountains and everything at the top of Toilet Bowl in Jackson, and there was fresh was brushed with bright, rosy colors. Huge Diamond snow and boulders and gullies and trees and skinny skis, Peak was bright red and The Books were soft pink. It and every excuse under the sun to zigzag your way down was so beautiful we couldn’t help watching the sun the hill, and Doug said something to the effect of,“What completely go down. No wind. No sound at all. Just I do is pick a spot on the valley floor,a tree or something, calm. Calm stillness. and aim for it. It’s that simple. Don’t wander all over the We didn’t start skiing until the light had turned place, just ski in a direct line toward that spot.” shady dark,and we had to be picked up by the heli in the With one little suggestion, he left me—he left all of middle of the slope because it got too dark to ski safely. us—without excuses. It was like a koan: the answer lay Doug was the boss, so we didn’t get scolded too bad. within the riddle which lay within the answer.It sounds I really miss his smile and motivation. But I am easy,it sounds...prosaic,but it was one of the most pro- sure he is watching over Emily and their son David, found things anyone’s ever said about skiing to me.And and all of us powder hogs, and skiing along with us Doug skied it like no one else I’ve known. Ski in the fall whenever, wherever. line, ski with purpose, ski toward that point and you Steve Casimiro will arrive there. I realized, watching him disappear into the powder, that Doug had taught me to aim, and Steve skied and worked with Doug Coombs through- the difference with Doug was that his aim was true. out the early and mid-90s while Casimiro was editor of Powder and Coombs was a skiing ambassador and direc- Wade McKoy tor of Steep Skiing camps for Jackson Hole. Wade met Coombs in Jackson Hole in the mid-80s. Doug Coombs taught me to poach,but that’s anoth- Bob Woodall and McKoy were shooting with the Jackson er story. What Doug Coombs taught me that I remem- Hole Air Force—Jon and Rick Hunt, Tom Bartlet, Ben ber every single time I ski was the secret to his Wilson, Howard Henderson—when one day they strength, power, and grace. Secret? Hell, I guess it was- brought their new friend along: Doug Coombs. n’t a secret. And who am I to say that it was at the core I once slept for 18 hours, thinking I’d out-slothed Base Camp, Mount Vinson, Antarctica,1999 www.focusproductions. com 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 69 EvolutionEvolution zEXTREMEEXTREME Visionaries take steep skiing to new heights

by Jack Shaw hen Paul McCollister broke ground here in 1961 on a “European-style mountain resort,”he created a lifestyle location that would draw North America’s most rugged skiers. As if to affirm this,Bill Briggs’s legendary ski descent of theW Grand Teton a decade later helped set a precedent for Jackson Hole to become an international epicen- ter of hard-core ski mountaineering. The next 35 years would be characterized by technological advances in the ski industry, mirrored by the jaw-dropping skills of the world’s best skiers, often right here in the Tetons. And in October of 2006, three Jackson locals would make history again, successfully skiing the world’s most difficult peak, Mt. Everest. While Briggs’s descent was the first of its kind in the States, the Europeans had been at it for some time. With Hannes Schneider’s development of the “Arlberg Method” in St. Bill Briggs Anton, Austria, in the 1920s, skiing’s popularity took off.When his Austrian instructors started ski schools of their own worldwide, many found homes in fledgling ski areas in the U.S. However, Europe’s steep, untamed mountains Julie Zell, Chamonix, France and ski runs went unmatched by America’s then-flat, mani- cured slopes. But in the 50s in Alta, Utah, skiers like Dick Durrance and Alf Engen (another Austrian) perfected a style of powder skiing that could only be invented in the deep snow of the Wasatch. The early 60s saw the bar being raised again by the Europeans, this time the Swiss and French. Sylvain Saudan and Patrick Vallençant began notching off stunning descents around Chamonix, including the Spencer Couloir in 1965, the Whymper Couloir in 1967, and the Tour Ronde in 1969. Vallençant went on to write a book, Ski Extrême,which defined a new brand of European skiing. His thesis statement? “If you fall, you die.”This is the first record of the word “extreme” used in reference to an individual sport. Meanwhile back in the Tetons, Bill Briggs and Barry Corbet, among others, began poking around in the high peaks, with descents of Buck Mountain (1961) and Mount Moran’s Skillet Glacier (1968).When Briggs set his sights on the Grand Teton in 1971, most people thought he was out of his mind.“Look, it was a natural progression of the sport,”he says.“Just like there are the classic climbing routes up there, there are classic descents just Doug Coombs, Chugach Range, Valdez, Alaska made to be skied.”He knew what was going on in Europe at the

70 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 www.focusproductions. com Doug Coombs, Thompson Pass, Valdez, Alaska Top left two: Greg VonDoersten; bottom and right: Wade McKoy bottom and right: Wade left two: Greg VonDoersten; Top time,and took it as a cue.“I had heard about view of the chairlifts and tram had been skied. So Saudan’s descent of the Eiger,and it impressed me.” a group of visionaries began heading deeper into Heralding this new aspect of the sport, along the field, against the wishes of the ski patrol. This with its less extreme pursuits, Powder Magazine infamous group would gain notoriety and a cult- was founded in 1973. The seed had sprouted, and like status as the Jackson Hole Air Force. Led by Americans everywhere began to push the limits of Benny Wilson, this dedicated band of locals their gear and their abilities. The Squaw Valley thumbed their noses at the patrol and rules in crew was hucking at the Palisades, and skiers general, venturing out beyond the Northern across North America began heading deeper into boundary into Granite Canyon, mapping the sys- the mountains to ski more ambitious, remote tem of north-facing couloirs and avalanche paths descents.The Tetons were no exception, as equally as their own private powder reserves. While little impressive feats began to stack up. Skiers like of the terrain was “extreme”by Vallençant’s defini- Jorge Colón, Steve Shea, and freeheeler Rick Wyatt tion, the avalanche danger was very real, and were at the forefront of this era. these skiers assumed the risk themselves. Guys Within the resort boundaries, Jackson skiers like Tommy Bartlett, Rick and Jon Hunt, Howie enjoyed the benefits of a mountain that had a rep- Henderson, Jeff and Jim Zell, and Doug Coombs utation as “too cold and too tough”for most recre- were at the core of this new cutting edge of skiing ational skiers. Namely, few crowds and abundant in Jackson Hole. powder, ideal conditions for unhurried explo- Following in their footsteps were the next gen- ration. In 1976, Victor Gerdin skied “Once is erations of ski bums,local kids like Paul Huser and Enough”off of Cody Peak in stable spring snow John Griber, who was one of Jackson’s first snow- with four friends, including Tom Raymer. The bar boarders. With the arrival of groms like Jason was being raised. Tattersall and “Sick” Rick Armstrong in the early By the mid-80s,nearly everything within plain 90s,Jackson’s reputation as the home for America’s

Counterclockwise from right: Once is Enough couloir, looking across at No Name and Rendezvous peaks,) skier Jason Tattersall; John Griber descends the Chouinard Couloir on the Middle Teton; Doug Coombs sets up a rappel in La Grave, France; Once is Enough couloir from above, on Cody Peak, skier Jeff Leger.

o a group of visionaries began headingS deeper into the field, against the wishes of the ski patrol. This infamous group would gain notoriety and a cult-like status as the Jackson Hole Air Force. In October 2006, Jimmy Chin, and Rob and Kit DesLauriers skied from the summit of Mount Everest, (right), rappelling over the Hillary Step (cliff band below summit, viewer’s right). For the complete story, see Outside Magazine, January 2007 issue.

best skiers was solid. Bigger airs off every Tetons would be characterized by the available cliff band in and out of the resort rebirth of the ski film. While “Kodak became a game of one-upmanship,and the courage” has been a mainstay of skiing daily lineup at Corbet’s Couloir was all- here since the 70s (Steve Shea skied time. All that photographers like Wade Briggs’s line on the Grand twice in 1978 McKoy and Bob Woodall had to do, it while filming Fall Line), the mid-90s saw seemed, was pull the trigger–the action an abundance of cameras capturing the was guaranteed. “Everybody would just Zeitgeist of the sport. Teton Gravity wait to see where Ricky was going to go, Research, founded by Steve and Todd and if he bounced, you were like, ‘Well, I Jones, Dirk Collins, and Corey Gavitt, guess I’m not gonna go there,’”says Jason turned the lenses on themselves and their Tattersall. “But you look at the guys who friends as they launched bigger cliffs and are still around, like the Hunts, Bartlett, helped take the reputation of Jackson Hole Dave Miller, and Armstrong. Those guys skiers and snowboarders worldwide. are smooth and calculated. They’re the “The great thing about Jackson when ones you learn from,” he says. “The ones we got started,”says Collins,“was that the who are fun to ski with.” talent pool was so deep, with guys like When snowboarder Stephen Koch Reese Edwards, Johnny Recchio, Micah returned to Jackson after a winter in Black, Kevin Brazell, Armstrong and Tat Chamonix in the early 90s, his eyes had (Jason Tattersall). Everyone had a good been opened to a new side of skiing and idea of where we wanted the sport to go, alpinism combined. He and Mark and we knew how we wanted to portray Newcomb began ticking off lines in the it.”But Collins also recognizes the unsung Tetons that only a Frenchman could heroes in the Hole. “There are so many appreciate. Their successful descents of people on the hill here that could be pros, the Grand Teton’s Black Ice Couloir and but don’t want to be bothered with it.They the Apocalypse Couloir on Prospector’s just love skiing, which is a testament to Mountain in 1994 stand as two of the Jackson’s reputation.” most ambitious lines ever skied in North Meanwhile,Doug Coombs had discov- America. Newcomb would go on to part- ered his own personal Nirvana in Valdez, ner with Coombs on the Otter Body in Alaska. A lifetime of skiing had prepared 1996, an incredibly exposed yet aesthetic him for the final frontier,helicopter explo- line off the East Face of the Grand–conse- ration of an unskied mountain range.And quential doesn’t even begin to cover it. he brought many of his friends from The next era of extreme skiing in the Jackson to ski and work with him at From left: Chris Figenshau, Gabe Rogel, Wade McKoy (2), Jimmy Chin (2) From left: Chris Figenshau, Gabe Rogel, Wade www.focusproductions. com 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 73 Valdez Heli-ski Guides. The impossibly steep peaks of the Chugach Range, plastered with a maritime snowpack that inex- plicably held to the faces, made for an unreal laboratory for them to develop the next level of extreme skiing. Coombs would then find yet another aspect of skiing, a skill-set he needed to add to his résumé to make it complete. Due to a forced vacation from Jackson Hole at the hands of an Oh give me a home... overzealous ski patrol in 1997, he spent his next few winters in

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74 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 Tetons definitely make you do that.”In her characteris- “I never could have foreseen the progression to these tic modesty,she said of their descent of the Lhotse Face, huge jumps,”says Briggs.“That’s totally out of my realm “Although we were essentially like three climbers free- of comprehension.”For every step of the progression of soloing side-by-side, we were really just three friends skiing here in Jackson, the principal players have looked from Jackson Hole doing what we love to do.” to the preceding generation for inspiration and guid- Back at the resort, Jackson remains a proving ance.“But,”adds Tattersall,“it’s gone from having some ground today. The tram, an icon of American skiing regard for your body to, nowadays, some of these kids and a symbol of Jackson Hole the world over, serves as want it so bad they have no regard for their life.” a beacon that still draws the best skiers and snow- Despite the abuse of the “extreme” moniker in the boarders on the planet like moths to a flame. There are mainstream culture,big-mountain riding,steep skiing, more cameras than ever, and lines are skied daily that and ski mountaineering in the Tetons is just as com- wouldn’t be skied for months five years ago. Cody mitted as ever.Where it goes from here is anyone’s Peak’s Central Couloir is hit regularly, BASE jumpers guess. ski into 500-foot dead end cliffs, and skiers like Mike Jack Shaw is a freelance writer and itinerant ski Tierney continue to find innovative routes out of bum living in Teton Village and wherever else there impossible lines. are world-class trams. EXCLUSIVE PROPERTIES

1980s Steep and Deep Camp skiers watch as Doug Coombs demonstrates his entrance into Corbet’s Couloir. Bob Woodall

Coombs again pushed the limits by guiding the first ski descent of the Grand with a client.“What Doug was the best at was making people feel comfortable in that terrain and instilling confidence,”he adds. In 1999, the JHMR adopted a European-style open boundary policy that was seen as a progressive look at the future of North American resort skiing. Many locals saw it as the end of an era, as throngs of skiers now flocked to their secret stashes and the inbounds TETON VILLAGE “powder hour” (everything is tracked within an hour) Panoramic views from this penthouse on top spread out across the southern Teton Range. But while of the Village! This Teton Mountain Lodge it increased backcountry traffic, the new policy also Condo has unbeatable sweeping views of the put Jackson at the forefront of avalanche awareness Valley, Sleeping Indian and the Gros Ventre among resident skiers.An almost inevitable side effect range from two large decks. Enjoy luxury was an increase in backcountry avalanche fatalities. hotel amenities, spa, restaurant, valet and By no means has ski mountaineering in the Hole more. High end finishes include custom furnishings, stone counter tops, tile, appliances, been strictly a boys’ club. Utah native Kristen Ulmer and whirlpool tubs. 2 beds/2 ba. $1,395,000 became the first woman to ski the Grand in 2000, with Jackson local A.J.Cargill’s first female free-heel descent JACKSON Lovingly built custom home with not far behind in 2004. But even the boys pale in com- Teton Views! You will be right at parison to the accomplishments of Jackson Hole home in this stunning horse prop- extreme queen Kit DesLauriers.While quietly winning erty North of town. Spacious, the International Freeskiing World Championship in open great room and kitchen with 2004 and 2005, she began setting her sights on loftier stainless appliances, double oven goals. With successful descents of Denali and and 6 burner gas range. Large Antarctica’s Vinson in 2005, there was only one peak master suite, beautiful landscap- left between her and her unspoken goal. In a classic ing, patio and decks makes for understated style that stayed clear of the typical media gracious living indoors and out. circus, she and her husband Rob, along with local pho- 1 bed/1 ba guest apartment. 2 + acrs. 3 bed/3 ba. $1,400,000. tographer Jimmy Chin, successfully climbed and skied Mount Everest in October 2006. Not only was she the first woman to successfully ski from Everest, but the Jack Delay, Associate Broker “Your Ace in the Hole” first person to ski the Seven Summits. President-Elect Teton County P.O. Box 734 “I definitely think that Jackson Hole is the best Board of Realtors training ground in North America for that kind of ski- Teton Village, WY 83025 ing,”she said after returning from Everest in November. [email protected] “Chamonix is probably the only other place that compares in the world. You have to be able to ski without 307-690-8404 making a single mistake for an extended time, and the www.focusproductions. com 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 75 CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING Community Pathways COME AND STAY WITH US. Teton County/Jackson Parks and Recreation Dept.main- Enjoy a comfortable, pleasant and inexpensive stay tains six cross-country tracks, snow conditions permitting: 10 km in Cache Creek, 8 km in Game Creek, and at the base of the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. shorter sections on the Snake River Levee (starting at Enjoy the magnificent and breathtaking country. Emily’s Pond), the Russ Garaman Trail, the School Trail, and the Melody Ranch Trail. Call 739-6789 or 733-5056 1 or 2 persons $58.00 for more information. 3 or 4 Persons $70.00 Yellowstone National Park Over 100 miles of skied-in cross-country track. Use Box 546, Teton Village, Wyoming 83025 snowcoaches as access.Information: 307-344-7381;Web: www.nps.gov/yell; roads: 307-344-2117 • 307-733-3415 • FAX: 307-739-1142 • Grand Teton National Park http://www.hostelx.com Fifteen miles of stunning,groomed cross-country skiing from Taggart Lake trailhead to Signal Mt. and a skied-in track north along Cottonwood Creek. Info: 739-3300; Web: www.nps.gov/grte Teton Pines Nordic Center Sixteen km of impeccably groomed skating and classic lanes. Equipment rental and lessons available. 733-1005 Jackson Hole Mountain Resort Nordic Center Twenty km of groomed skating and classic lanes.Alpine lift tickets are also valid for the Nordic Center. Lessons and rentals available for cross-country,skate skiing, tele- marking, and snowshoeing. Ski with your dog on desig- nated trails. Guided nature tours into Grand Teton National Park are also available.Overnighters and lunches at the OB Rock Springs Yurt. 739-2629 White Pine Sixty km of trails (25 km of groomed, 40km of skied-in track) originate from Skyline Drive (Fremont Lake Road), and some trails start right from the White Pine parking lot. 307-367-6606. www.whitepineski.com. Lessons and equipment rental also available.

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76 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 COMPETITIONREPORT By Lauren M. Whaley

Resi Stiegler, 2006 Winter Olympics, Torino, Italy Jonathan Selkowitz photos Local skiers compete on world stage hen 20-year-old Resi Stiegler stood at the gate, perched on her skis, overlooking her first Olympic run last winter in Torino, Italy, her father, Wmother, and brother were all there cheering. “It was a very happy,emotional experience–beyond belief,”said Carrie “Mama” Stiegler. “For me, as a par- ent,it has been many years of the whole family working toward this goal. When I actually saw her standing at the starting gate at the Olympics, I could not believe it. She came down, and she was so wonderful. It was the coolest thing ever.” The daughter of Austrian Olympic bronze, silver, and gold medalist Pepi Stiegler, Resi, “Tiger,” raced The Stieglers: Pepi, Resi, Carrie, Seppi, and Grandmother Norma down wearing furry tiger ears glued to her helmet. Following in the ski tracks of his sister and father, “When a gal is hitting her stride in her early twenties, “Over there, of course, the tiger ears are huge,” young Seppi Stiegler, 17, is another one to watch. He the boys are generally just starting to get there.” explained Carrie.“They wait for the tiger ears to come graduated from Jackson Hole High School in May and Seppi will race with rock-star teammates Zach down,they wait for her to do her little shimmy and they bagged a full ride to Denver University,but deferred for Schwartz,Max Hammer,and Melissa Gill,all promis- go nuts.” a year to train. ing racers. After the Olympic committee agreed to allow Resi “He’s quite anxious to ski for DU,” Carrie Stiegler “The biggest thing from last year is that Max to wear her ears in the games, the Tiger placed ninth in said. Hammer got named to the U.S. Ski team development the Olympic combined slalom, 11th in Olympic com- Carrie Stiegler didn’t put Olympics off the radar for squad,” said Brad Saxe, head alpine coach for the bined overall, and 12th in the Olympic slalom. She also Seppi, but said boys develop differently than girls. Jackson Hole Ski Club. “I think that the ski club pro- placed fourth in the slalom at World Cup Finals in Aare, “Resi, at fifteen, was already on the U.S.ski team.At vides the grooming, and once you make it to the devel- Sweden, last year. thirteen she was already training with them,”she said. opment team, they’re kind of refining the package.”

www.focusproductions. com 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 77 “She had a pretty excellent year last year. She won an FIS downhill, was third in another, and she’s got probably top tens in slalom,”Saxe said.“It almost does- n’t matter what level you’re talking about; if you’re winning a race, you’re on the way to go somewhere.” When she competed last year in the junior national championships at 16, Gill placed 2nd in super G, 2nd in slalom, 5th in GS, and 10th in downhill, Saxe noted. “To go to a junior national championship and have your worst place be tenth is pretty spectacular,”Saxe said. SKI MOUNTAINEERING Others at the top of the heap are the three Jackson members of the U.S. Ski Mountaineering Team: Cary Smith, Chris Kroger, and Steve Romeo, who cleaned up on their home turf at the North American Championships. The race at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort was also the final stop of the Mountain Hardware Life-Link/Dynafit Ski Mountaineering Race Series, a seven-race series. Smith,a dentist by trade,placed second in the event

Bradly J. Boner photos and second overall. Kroger took third in the race and overall. Romeo won fifth. Hammer was accepted to Dartmouth after graduat- Other notables at the Jackson event included ing last year. He plans to do summer at Dartmouth, in “I think that the ski Wilson resident Courtney Kitchen, who took fourth between training in Europe, and to race in the junior club provides the place in her first-ever randonnee race. championships in March and in other NorAm competi- In the men’s recreational division,Jackson residents tions throughout the season. grooming, and once Luke Lynch and Danny Beasse won first and second Schwartz will also attend school in Hanover, New places, respectively. Hampshire, while trying to make the U.S. Ski Team. you make it to the In the same competition, the Mountain Hardwear Last year, he went to the U.S. Nationals. development team, Life-Link/Dynafit Ski Mountaineering Race at Jackson “Zach is a great athlete with a good work ethic,” Hole, 16-year-old Willie Neal’s perseverance earned Saxe said.“He would be sort of the guy to watch out for.” they’re kind of him the Ray Azar Golden Shovel Award for a second The fastest girl is Melissa Gill, a senior at the com- refining the package.” consecutive year. He came in second, behind his 15- munity school in Jackson, Saxe said. year-old brother Eliot, the youngest racer in the event.

The North American Championships of the Mountain Hardwear Life-Link/Dynafit Ski Mountaineering Race Series, held at the Lynsey Dyer, Cardiac Cave McKoy / TGR Wade Jackson Hole Mountain Resort

78 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 “Jackson Hole was quite the host this year, as it ponied up in March for its first alpine freeskiing race in 10 years.”

FREESKIING slopestyle at the Honda Session in Vail.And in Jackson Hole was quite the host this year, as the X-Games, he placed first in the slopestyle it ponied up in March for its first alpine freeski- qualifier and got ninth in the finals. ing race in 10 years. Rice’s fellow valley boy, professional snow- Jackson competitors gracefully and aggres- boarder Rob “Kinger” Kingwill, continued his sively skied 9,000-foot Casper Bowl’s cliffs, illustrious snowboarding career in several spines, and wide-open spaces. Racers finished competitions, coaching opportunities, and the course on a mogul field. home-turf freeriding fun. Kingwill grew up in Jackson’s Lynsey Dyer placed second, with Jackson Hole, and has been on the World local ski buddy Jessica Baker taking third.Other Cup/Pro contest circuit for 10 years. Jackson women include Liza Marshall, Vanessa He spent last winter globetrotting: New Pierce, and Crystal Wright, who placed 10th, Zealand to coach, Chile (where he placed 11th, and 12th respectively. fourth in the World Cup), Breckenridge for But it was really Jackson local Jess McMillan the Grand Prix (where he crashed twice in who shined in freeskiing last year, as she took the finals), and Mt. Baker Banked Slalom second in the finals in the four-stop 2006 (nailing down third). He also won the Dick’s Subaru U.S. Freeskiing series in Kirkwood, Ditch race in Jackson. California. Maybe this will be the year for Toward the end of the season, Kingwill let national champion? competition concentration ebb in favor of freeriding Jackson Hole during an epic winter SNOWBOARDING and the last season of Jackson Hole Mountain Local Travis Rice, dubbed “arguably the Resort’s aerial tram. best overall rider in the world” in a Kingwill said to keep an eye out for two

Wikipedia.org bio, consistently represents the snowboarders: Ricky Bower, who coaches for Jonathan Selkowitz alpha males of his hometown. Last season, he the U.S. team, and Jackson’s Jason Elms. placed second in the rail and third in the Max Hammer, U.S. National Championships, Sugarloaf, ME, 2006 :RPPU:RPV\[ *VUKVZPU1HJRZVU/VSL The Best of Teton Village Pitchfork Condo at Snow King at Snow Ridge with Great Rental Potential

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Ed Liebzeit, Owner-Associate Broker 888.733.6060 • 307.732.7464 • [email protected] • www.rejh.com • 110 E. Broadway, Jackson, WY 83001 www.focusproductions. com 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 79 The Brotherhood of

Midway through a tour of Igneous,a Jackson-based ski factory,Michael Parris picks up a 165cm maple-topped ski and says,“This is Shoshana Kobrin’s ski. She works at the knitting store in town, is about five-one, weighs around a by Lora Bodmer hundred pounds,and loves to ski the Pass with her old dog Sadie.” Parris and Adam Sherman, his business partner Custom skis hand-made with love and friend,go on to boast that they can pick up any ski currently in production and tell you who the person is, where he skis,how he skis,his height and weight,and probably the last time they skied with him. Putting them to the test, I point to a pair of 185cm skis with split tails waiting patiently to enter the final stage. “Those are for Jarrett Schwartz, a well-known local sushi chef. He likes to ski powder at the resort and on the Pass,” Parris continues. Sherman steps in, motioning proudly to an insanely wide pair ofpowder skis with dried epoxy resin oozing from their sides, adding, “and those are for our freeload team captain, John Verdon.” They pass with flying colors. What other ski makers in the world can do that? Sherman and Parris grew up skiing central Pennsylvania’s highest vertical, Blue Knob, before finding their way separately to the West, Aspen Extreme style. Following a trip to the ski show in Vegas in the early 90s, they came back to Jackson dreaming of providing the masses with hand-built skis that could withstand intense skiing in places like Jackson Hole. Toward the end of the decade, Sherman and Parris returned to the Vegas show, hailed as the next big thing in the ski-manufacturing world. They were even picked up as the faces in Dewar’s Scotch ads running in Playboy, GQ, Sports Illustrated, and others. The ads may have sold some scotch,but the boys claim they did- n’t help Igneous sell more skis, and by 2001 Igneous pulled out of the race to reach mainstream-ski status. Today Igneous is the only outfit making skis in the U.S.–and possibly the world–where buyers can walk into the factory and custom-design a pair of skis. Most of Igneous’s customers are locals who ride and ski every day, saving up the $1,200 to $1,600 for custom-tailored con-

Various wood top-sheets–even original art designed by Mike Tierney (pictured), in-house artist and Igneous team charger– are available. struction of the featured shapes, or even the $1,800+ for completely custom shapes. The skis are all tested by the likes of local underground rippers, including John Verdon and Jason “Soda Pop”Anthony, to withstand seasons of abuse on Jackson’s gnarly terrain.Visitors are welcome to do as the locals do and cruise in to the factory to get started on their own custom pair. Parris and Sherman start off the process with an interview on how and where a buyer skis, while taking notes on his or her size.The client can pick from shapes available or design a totally new one, then specify the stiffness, flex pattern, and fiberglass lay-up to cusomize the ride. Aesthetics of the ski are also within the buyer’s control.Various wood top-sheets–even original art designed by Mike Tierney, in-house artist and Igneous team charger–are available. The level of personal attention given to each step for each ski is remarkable. The moment the maple and ash arrive at the factory, each piece is inspected. The straight pieces that will stay strong in the core are alternated by hand to build matched pairs of cores. The crazy, knot- ted pieces are sliced and planed down to one-of-a-kind top sheets. Everything else goes to a pile for future bonfires. The cores are shaped and custom-profiled for varying stiffness and flex pattern. Bases and edges are fit by hand into the ski mold. Skis are laid up with fiberglass, rubber foil, and epoxy. After being pressed, excess material is cut away, sidewalls are Adam and Mike in the ski-press room; left: Mike holds a par- shaped, and bases are abolic model. hand-flattened and stone-ground. Steel edges are hand-tuned and polished. Three coats of wax are ironed into the base, and one is lovingly melted onto the top, to keep snow from sticking. The step away from the manufacturing race hasn’t removed Igneous from the media’s eye. For the last two seasons straight, Igneous has been on the cover of Powder Magazine’s Photo Annual. The unmistakable maple skis appeared on the 2005 cover in a picture set up by local ski photographer Andrew McGarry and shot from Jason “Soda Pop” Anthony’s first-person point of view.For the 2006 cover, McGarry mounted a remote camera on the tip of his 190 FFF and shot a self-portrait while skiing through powder on Teton Pass.But you won’t find Igneous in most mainstream ski magazine ski tests. After sending a pair of skis to Skiing Magazine in 2000, the guys received a call saying that the pair would not be included because they were made for more serious skiers, not the average skier.“That made us feel kinda good about the skis that we were making,because we weren’t aiming to make skis for the average person,”says Sherman.“Now our shapes and custom process have been refined and expanded to include all types of skiers.” “Everyone calls after they get their skis and says,‘These are the best skis ever,’ but it isn’t until we go out and ski with them that we can tell if we really made them the right ski,”says Parris. When customers bring their skis in for tuning at the factory, Parris and Sherman can see how they are being worn, and by that wear, how Igneous can improve the process. Parris and Sherman fancy Igneous as more than a ski company.They view it in a personal way, more as a brotherhood of skiers advancing skiing and ski development pair by pair.“The whole time,we still think of them as our skis,”says Sherman.“We let you ride them because you paid us some money, but we still love those skis.” Lora Bodmer freelances for a variety of national magazines, works in the “industry,”and rides powder from her home in Wilson,Wyoming. www.focusproductions. com 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 81 THE INDISPENSABLE TRAM War Stories from the U.S. Army’s 10th Mountain Division

Excerpts from Peter Shelton’s Climb to Conquer Compiled by Wade McKoy Illustrations by Jacques Parker, 10th Mountain Division As the news broke that the Jackson Hole Aerial Tram was to be decommissioned, I recalled an account of a tram so important that its users would not have dared take it for granted. Their lives depended on it.

Aerial tramway built by 126th Engineer Battalion to evacuate wounded and resupply troops attacking Riva Ridge, February 1945. U.S. Army Signal Corps U.S.

he book jacket for author Peter Shelton’s “As winter set in, the two sides hunkered down, wartimeT tale, Climb to Conquer, sets the story up. wary and exhausted, across what Allied maps now “In the late-1930s United States, rock climbing and called the Winter Line.” downhill skiing were relatively new sports. But World The specially trained 10th Mountain soldiers were War II brought a need for men who could handle about to see action. extreme mountainous conditions–and the elite 10th “Further progress to the north required that the Mountain Division was born. Everything about it was Allies take and hold Monte Belvedere. The hope was unprecedented: It was the sole U.S. Army division that the 10th, with its mountain training, its esprit, and trained on snow and rock, the only division ever to its very high level of fitness, could do what no one else grow out of a sport.” had yet managed: to dislodge Belvedere’s defenders.” In 1944, very late in the war and after training in Shelton continues, describing the difficulties. Colorado for several years, America’s mountain troops “Not only was Belvedere itself well defended, but were finally dispatched to Italy. Shelton describes the the existence of a tall, unusually steep, perpendicular scene as the fresh soldiers arrived. “But the Germans on top appeared to regard the few Americans scrambling on the face as relatively harmless; their conviction that no large- scale force would attempt the climb remained intact.”

ridge [what came to be known as Riva Ridge] to the west made it all but impregnable.” After working one week to establish the first route up Riva Ridge, the troops continued their mission. “Over the next weeks, [10th Mtn.] patrols established four more routes up Riva. The climbers did not go unobserved and had to duck occasional pot shots from above.But the Germans on top appeared to regard the few Americans scrambling on the face as relatively harmless; their conviction that no large-scale force would attempt the climb remained intact.” Little did the enemy realize the foresight of the U.S. Army.

82 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 “From the planning stages, it was recognized that the whole thing apart and putting it back together two two of the toughest challenges on Riva would be figur- or three times until they shaved their record down to From Jacques Parker, ing out methods to resupply the troops up top and to just a couple of hours. evacuate the wounded.” “That first morning on Riva, as soon as about his drawings,which were taken The Army planners were correct. the assault companies reported topping down the tram with the wounded: Even though the climbing skills of out on the ridge, engineers began these special soldiers could get hauling cable up the Capel Buso As a member of the 10th during World them up and down the route. The going was not as War II, I had the unique opportunity (when- mountain–one of the easy or as smooth as it had ever possible) to capture on paper the scenes routes was even manage- been on flat ground at Swift. as they occurred…the villages, children, peo- able by mule train–they There was the racing ple, the Alpini and partisans we worked with; desperately needed a Dadagna [River] to cross, the combat in those mountains. Sixty original secret weapon. The dou- and there were mines illustrations, many with written accounts of ble jig-back tram their buried in an orchard part- the scene, make up the 10th Mountain Art engineers had designed way up the route. A few Exhibit of these historic documentations. especially for this mission Germans, caught away from For more information on the exhibit con- would soon prove invaluable. their units on the sharp eastern tact Jacques Parker at 448 West 20th Street, “And the mules did yeo- contours of Riva, fired on the New York, New York 10011 / 212-243-6416. man’s duty, hauling ammunition, tram builders. A couple of engineers food, and water up Route 2. On all the were wounded by mines. But they perse- Parker’s notes from his drawing (left), other climbing routes, though, as the Germans vered, and by the afternoon of the 21st [the Sleeping in a Snowcave: counterattacked and supplies ran low, exhausted attack began the night of February 18], they had a human porters struggled over rock and ice–often two working tram that covered two-thirds of the vertical to “Sleeping in a snow cave the first night. and three times a day–with sixty-pound loads. Capel Buso. Assault squad had no blankets since they “The problem of evacuation remained, however. “The fourteen-minute ride cut the total time need- climbed with only ammo and shovels. It Stretcher-bearers took six to twelve hours to haul a ed to bring wounded down from the top to about two man safely down the 1,500 vertical feet to aid stations hours. Many of the fifty casualties evacuated this way was cold as hell! I made this pencil sketch at the base of the cliff. In some cases, sadly, that wasn’t probably owe their lives to the engineers. of my assistant, a young guy who was “Meanwhile, the tram also shuttled tons of food, scared and finally dozed off. This was my water, and ammunition to the 86th companies holding way of staying awake and trying to stay tenaciously against counterattacks by the German 4th warm—until daylight.” Mountain Battalion.”

fast enough. The alter- native was to erect an aerial tramway, which, fortunately, the 10th’s engineers came prepared to do. Back at Camp Hale [Colorado], the Army had decided to develop a portable tram for use in mountainous terrain.The people most familiar with aerial systems at the time were mining engineers. Mines throughout the Rockies and Sierras had long used cable trams to haul machinery up and bring ore down to the mills.Could the engineers build a tramway that could be broken down and transported in crates weighing no more than 250 pounds each? And then be reassembled again in a hurry? “A young mine engineer named Robert Heron, who would go on to design and build some of the first chairlifts at Colorado ski resorts,came up with an ingenious, modular design, powered by a Piper Cub aircraft engine. It was a jig-back tram: One car went up while the opposite car came down. The same concept–much less refined–ran the Boat Tow [ski lift] on Aspen

Mountain.When they got to Camp Swift [Texas],members of the 126th Engineer Battalion practiced taking

www.focusproductions. com 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 83 sleddogs A Musher’s Tale For the Love of Dogs

Neophyte mushers Alex Homme and Chris Newson sled up Granite Creek with their guide. Below, Libby Riddles holds her new pup.

By Libby Riddles grew up skiing, skating The northern Natives invented dog sled- I ding, an ingenious style of travel perfect for and playing in the snow, so I snow country. Huskies are one of the oldest also enjoy being outside in breeds, and are almost undoubtedly descend- ed from wolves.Their independence can the winter. And I love ani- make them as difficult to train as cats, but they also display the special loyalty and lov- mals. This would partly ability of a dog.It’s the muscle that sometimes gets them into trouble. Don’t they know that a explain why I’ve lived in dog nose imploding into a human lip is going Alaska for 30-some years, to hurt a bit! Many of these beautiful northern dogs still and have logged thousands retain their wolfish markings, even if we have bred them to be smaller and have shorter fur. of miles on a sled pulled by The blue eyes or mixed blue and brown eyes are the wildest, coolest dogs on famous traits of the husky, although collies and a few other breeds exhibit this coloration as the planet, Alaskan huskies. well. Huskies can sometimes be good pets, but be prepared for a dog that can’t be trusted run- These 40- to 60-pound ning loose: running away from home is a husky’s favorite hobby! They also sometimes dogs can outrun, out-eat, enjoy eating small animals and fighting with and outlive most other other dogs. So if you can accept their wildness and keep them out of trouble, they can be great breeds of dogs. companions. 84 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 “And when the urge strikes them, they throw back their muzzles and sing to the moon like their ancestors, an eerie northern song.”

The scenery always changes for these lead dogs.

Modern-day huskies may be purebreds, but sounds accompanying the musher. Only in are more likely mixed breed “Alaskan” huskies. Hollywood do sled dogs bark on the run.And Strains of hunting hound,pointer,saluki,or oth- the musher speaks only when needed, comers may color the bloodlines of the dogs tradi- manding with a soft “gee” or “haw.” My dogs tionally from the native villages.These dogs can don’t mind if I also sing a bit, as long as I don’t run a hundred miles a day in the big races like get too rowdy. A few ears will flick back, and I the Iditarod and Yukon Quest. And when the know it’s time to behave. urge strikes them, they throw back their muz- It’s true that the musher often gets to stand zles and sing to the moon like their ancestors,an on the sled runners as the dogs trot down the eerie northern song. trail. But if you think this means just standing The musher has to know all the quirks of still, guess again. The musher has to constantly each dog, and has to teach them all to get along be watching the trail ahead and adjusting her together while at the same time getting them in balance accordingly. A miscalculation may shape.Learning how to care for these high-pow- throw her over the handle bar if she’s not paying ered canine athletes is an art.When the team attention. What a rush it is, leaning and duck- gets to the point of being well trained and coop- ing,kicking and running on the hills behind the erating smoothly with the musher,it is an unbe- dogs, one of the pack! lievably satisfying way to travel. And there’s magic in the stories left tracked The speed and power of the dogs is a sur- into the frozen surface of the snow, tales of the prise to some; a well-trained team can really few stealthy creatures who inhabit the winter- cover some ground. It is almost soundless trav- time.Otter slides,wolf tracks four times the size el, not much more noise than a wolf pack on the of my biggest dog. What are they hunting here? run. A little clinking from dog-collar rings and The dogs glide quietly over the snow, making tags, the creak of the sled, and the whooshing of their own tracks, fitting gracefully into the still the runners gliding over the snow are the sole wilderness. Moose tracks will put us on the www.focusproductions. com 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 85 alert; a moose in a bad mood can be lethal to sled dogs. Winter’s short days are conducive to JACKSON HOLE’S monster sunrises and sunsets. Add golden orange light to drop-dead beautiful wild country, the symmetry of the CONTINENTAL DIVIDE dogs and their shadows as they run,and the artful aspect of this ancient sport is hard to miss. It is all so beautiful–and DOGSLED ADVENTURES “Today there are Native mushers still involved with dog mushing, but the sport has truly gone global.” The eyes have it. almost impossible to capture on film. such as light-weight titanium trikes, dog But still I try. scooters, and bicycles. Or they simply When dog mushing started, it was a run behind the sled dog,a method called Native thing. But then the explorers and cani-crossing. People with just one or gold seekers took up the habit. Today two athletic dogs can be mushers, too.A there are Native mushers still involved lot of mushers run pointers or pointers with dog mushing, but the sport has crossed with huskies. These types of truly gone global. Mushers can be found dogs could never sleep a night out on the not only in Alaska, Canada, and snow, but can they ever burn up a trail, Learn Greenland, but also in New Zealand, even if they don’t look like “sled dogs!” r Scotland, Scandinavia, the Rockies, even There are a small number of profes- to mush you in South Africa. In cool climates without sional lifelong mushers today, mushers own sled! reliable snow, mushers train and race like four-time champion Jeff King, four- “dryland” style by using wheeled rigs or-more-generation musher Ramy • Hourly trips at Grand Targhee Resort and Teton Village • Half or Full day dogsledding and snowmobile/dogsled Locally grown race draws combo day at Togwotee Mountain Lodge world-class mushers • Full day and overnight trips into our backcountry yurt on the Continental Divide • Full day trips into Historic Brooks Lake Lodge 307-455-3052 • 800-531-MUSH Email: [email protected] www.dogsledadventures.com

The 12th annual International Pedigree Stage Stop Sled Dog Race (IPSSS- DR) begins in Jackson on January 26, 2007. Then the race heads for Lander, Irish Canyon, Cora, Pinedale, Big Piney, Alpine, Kemmerer, Bridger Valley, and Park City in Utah. Race Director Frank Teasley anticipates another exciting race. “From the applications I’ve received, it looks as if we’ll be hosting some of the world’s best mushers once again,”he said. Scheduled between Europe’s La Grande Odyssée and Alaska’s Iditarod, the IPSSSDR is a marquee event on the professional mushing circuit and the largest Spend the night in a Yurt! sled dog race in the lower 48 states. Many top mushers like to compete in all three events. Travel at the speed of dog With its unique “stage-stop”format, the race stops in a different community each night. Wyoming’s small towns host festivities for mushers and spectators through the Jackson Wyoming that include banquets, barbeques, pancake feeds, snowshoe softball, dog Backcountry! parades, and ice sculpture demonstrations. —From wyomingstagestop.org

86 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 733-7704 self-service dog wash full-service pet grooming

A dog sled ride leaves Teton Village and heads north. doggie daycare & Brooks, cancer survivor Deedee Jonrowe, the “Guy From Champion who recently succumbed to leukemia,leaving Montana” (Doug Swingly), and Jackson Hole’s Frank behind two small children and husband David Monson. basic obedience Teasley, to name a few. We come from many different walks of life, but share Other mushers mostly do tours with their dogs, or a our love for the peaceful moments out on the wild holistic pet food combination of racing and giving tours, a more reliable trails–and for winter. But it’s mostly the dogs we love, way to support a sled dog habit than racing, and a per- these beautiful, exuberant spirits, who teach us so much & supplies fect solution for dogs that may not be fast enough for a and share their love,their enthusiasm for a job well done, racing team. and a life well lived. Even the littlest musher in the littlest town is part of Libby Riddles, the first woman to win the Iditarod in the Kmart Plaza the mushing family.We have fun get-togethers and also Sled Dog Race, is a lecturer and author of three books, 520 S. Hwy 89 support each other during the hard times. Too often Race Across Alaska, Storm Run, and Danger: the Dog funerals and memorials are what bring us together, like Yard Cat. She lives in Homer, Alaska, and has a kennel Jackson, WY 83001 the one this fall for Susan Butcher,the four-time Iditarod of 40 Alaskan Huskies. JACKSONJACKSON HOLEHOLE IDITIDITARODAROD SLEDSLED DOGDOG TOURSTOURS Hosted by Jackson Hole’s own 8 Time Veteran Iditarod Musher, Frank Teasley A recipient of Leonhard Seppala Humanitarian Award

• Learn Mushing First Hand - Drive you own sled team! • Jackson based tours in the Bridger-Teton National Forest • Meals, transportation, supplemental clothing provided • Half-Day and Full Day Tours, Reservation Required • Serving the immediate and surrounding area. • Enjoy a soak in a natural 105° hot springs on our famous Granite Creek Canyon tour For Reservations or Information Call: 307-733-7388 JACKSON HOLE IDITAROD SLED DOG TOURS P.O. Box 1940, Jackson Hole,Wy 83001 www.jhsleddog.com Photos by Bob Woodall & Wade McKoy/Focus Productions, Inc. www.focusproductions. com 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 87 snowmobiles

Into the great white open By Bob Woodall In most of the country, winter necessity. And a great way to love Can I ride a snowmobile? and snowstorms are greeted with this plush white carpet is astride a Snowmachines are pretty stable items. If you can drive an automobile and you have an opposable thumb dread and angst, but not here. snowmobile. So saddle up and and forefinger,you should be able to ride down a After all, this is snow country! head into the great white open. groomed trail to, say, Old Faithful Geyser. You squeeze the throttle with your right thumb and the brake with With so much of the white stuff Northwest Wyoming straddles your left hand. It may take a few miles to get the feel of carpeting Wyoming’s mountains the stunning continental divide the trail but most riders can master the basics quickly. Riding off-trail, though, will require a bit more experi- each winter, learning to love it is a and is blessed with some of the ence. Off-trail snowmobiling is a skill-intensive sport. best snowmobile land- And just as driving a car down the road doesn’t qualify one to race in the Monte Carlo Grand Prix, steering a scapes available in the snowmobile along groomed roads is vastly different world, a veritable winter from finessing it through woodlands and powder fields at breakneck speeds. playground for snowma- For those wanting to flatten the learning curve, chine enthusiasts. Shad Free,first and only snowmobiler to launch into Corbet’s Couloir, will be operating Blue Sky High Snowmachines pro- Snowmobiling School this winter. vide quick access to even Guided or go it alone the deepest reaches of If you have never snowmobiled before,by all means the winter backcountry. go guided. All tour companies offer guided-trip packages. They usually provide transportation from your Within a few minutes lodging and they all supply the warm clothes needed you can be far from the for a comfortable experience. Continental breakfasts and hot lunches usually round out the package. The highway and immersed guides, of course, are trained in snowmobile and win- in the Rocky Mountains’ ter safety and have a handle on the area’s flora, fauna, Rocky O’Neal, Cameron Garnick, and Jim Moulton ride and history. Togwotee Pass. winter beauty. Unguided rentals, though, are a great way to see the

88 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 JacksonJackson HoleHole SnowmobileSnowmobile ToursTours

Specialists in Scenic & Backcountry Tours GGEYSERSEYSERS!! HHOTOT SSPRINGSPRINGS!! WWILDLIFEILDLIFE!! SSTEAKTEAK CCOOKOOK-O-OUTSUTS!! OfOfferingfering TToursours to:to: •• Yellowstone Yellowstone • Granite Hot Springs •- Old Faithful •Togwotee Sit down breakfast at a local restaurant, • Grand Canyon of • Wyoming Continental hot lunch, clothing & transportation to • Grand Canyon of • Wyoming Continental and from your lodging included. thethe YellowstoneYellowstone Divide Trail Clean 4 Stroke Powder Machines For more information Call: JACKSON HOLE SNOWMOBILE TOURS 1-800-633-1733 or 307-733-6850 email: [email protected] Over 20 years of guide service. web: www.jacksonholesnowmobile.com Snowmobile Tours of

withwith BESTBEST AdventuresAdventures Experience Winter in Yellowstone National Park

1/2 DAY TOURS INCLUDE: Airport drop IAL • Transportation to and PECvalue S best le off available kson Ho from your lodging after rental in Jac $ 9 • Hot breakfast at Route 89 8 Smoke House Restaurant Your Schedule, Your Pace • Hot lunch served in Yellowstone • Transportation available from your lodging • Late Model Snowmobiles; Photo by Connie Holdon • Ride to mountain lodges for lunch 550, 700 & 800 RMKs • New Cleaner 4 Stoke Machines • Ride both National Parks or M-7 Arctic Cats • No experience necessary Togwotee area trail systems • Double Machines Available • Located on the Continental Divide • Clothing, Helmet and Boots Included • Guided Tours Snowmobile Trail • Clean 4 Stroke Snowmobiles Jackson Hole, Wyoming Located at the G.T.P. RV Resort, Moran BEST ADVENTURES 1-800-563-6469 1-307-733-1980 307-733-4845 •1-800-851-0827 www.yellowstonerv.com Email: [email protected] www.focusproductions. com 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 89 country at one’s own pace, guides, though, as private citi- except in Yellowstone which is zens are no longer allowed to closed to all but commercially snowmobile in the park, even guided parties. But be sure to be if they have the required four- prepared for severe winter con- stroke machines. ditions, and know where you are going. Wyoming winters can be Granite Hot painfully brutal for the unpre- Springs pared. Just ask Olympic Gold While Yellowstone Medalist Rulon Gardiner. After abounds with hot springs, getting separated from his the opportunity to take a snowmobile party, he got disori- plunge in one of them is not ented and then bogged down his an option. Not only are most machine. After spending a night too hot, but swimming in out in below-zero temperatures, them is illegal.So if you crave he lost a toe to frostbite.So never

Janice Free / Blue Sky High a dip in a 110-degree pool in head into the backcountry alone. Snowmobile instructor Shad Free demonstrates a skillful move. the great outdoors, then head Where to go to Granite Hot Springs. The Herds of bison and elk graze the geyser basins, where natural hot spring-fed pool, set amidst the imposing There are several major snowmobile destinations the earth’s heat keeps the snow melted away from the Gros Ventre mountains, is just part of a day trip up in northwest Wyoming, each with its own special fea- summer grasses. If you’ve never been to Yellowstone, Granite Creek. Unlike in Yellowstone park, snowmobil- tures. Some are snowmobile playgrounds while others then a visit should be on the Top-10 list of “must do’s.” ers can go off trail and romp in the powder fields that are primarily for viewing the natural wonders. But make no mistake,Yellowstone is not a snowmo- the area offers. This would be a good break-in for Togwotee Pass, Granite Hot Springs, Green River bile playground! The machine is merely personal trans- those who want to kick it up a notch on the snowmo- Valley, and the Greys River Valley are the playgrounds, portation through the scenic and natural wonders of the bile learning curve. while Yellowstone and Gros Ventre areas are for observ- park. Travel is restricted to the groomed roadways. All ing wildlife and the natural world. off-road travel is prohibited and the speed limit is Union Pass & enforced at 35 mph from West Yellowstone to Old Green River Valley Yellowstone National Park Faithful and at 45 mph on all other park roads. Southeast of Togwotee Pass is the sprawling Union Tops on many travelers’ lists is Yellowstone National Snowmobiles actually offer less access than do automo- Pass and the Upper Green River Valley region. The Park. Snowmobiling through the park is a great way to biles in the summer. Contrary to some misperceptions, CDST accesses this area from both the Pinedale and experience this wonderland. The steam from geysers snowmobiles and riders cannot wander wherever they Dubois sides of the Wind River Range. The and hot springs is accentuated by the cold, crisp air. want in the park. All this info will be stressed by your Pinedale/Green River side of the mountains has a trail ✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷ O Y M UN STEAKS ~ SEAFOOD K TA C I ~ CHICKEN ~ O N R COMBINATION PLATES

Family Restaurant GREAT SOUP SSNOWMOBILENOWMOBIL & SALAD BAR TOURS “Jackson’s Local Favorite” A place where things are still the same OPEN 7AM T0URS AVAILABLE: 1 block south of Town Square BREAKFAST BUFFET • Granite Hot Springs 307-733-2639 • Continental Divide Free Wireless Internet Available LUNCH & DINNER • Yellowstone – travel by 40 W. Pearl St. • corner of Cache & Pearl snowmobile or snowcoach Jackson, Wyoming • Gros Ventre • Togwotee • Greys River WE PROVIDE: • Transportation to and from your Jackson Hole lodging • Continental breakfast & lunch • Snowmobile Gear • Current model snowmobiles with hand warmers • 4 stroke snowmobiles

733-2237 1-800-647-2561 BOOK ONLINE www.snowmobiletours.net • email: [email protected] ✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷ ✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷✷

90 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 system of over 135 miles, while the Dubois side has over 150 miles of trails CONFUSED? through some of the most scenic country in the West. Which snowmobile company is Breathtaking tracts of open the best? How do the trips dif- country, with mountains in fer? What’s included? Do we view everywhere and snow depths reaching 10 feet, just need guides? Is there off-trail beg to be explored. riding? Can the kids drive? What day is best? Togwotee Pass But if you want to really Is skiing easier at Grand boot it up a notch,head to the Targhee? How do we get there? Togwotee Pass area, where What about Snowcat Skiing? thousands of square miles of Can we really mush our own terrain await exploring.This is dogsled team? true powder-busting, cornice- bashing, zoom-across-a-wide- – Our 19th Year – open-field-of-powder country. But there’s more to world-class Swimmers enjoy a hot winter soak in Granite Hot Springs. LLAMA? LOU’S snowmobiling than wide- open terrain. Amid the Gros Ventre, Absaroka, Beyond the elk feeding grounds the terrain opens SNOWMOBILE ADVENTURES Wyoming,and Wind River mountain ranges,the scenery up and affords some off-trail riding. But please respect is second to none. The visibility on clear days can reach the wildlife closure areas. Causing the unnecessary In the Mangy Moose at Teton Village upwards of 150 miles. The Breccia Cliffs and the death of an animal is not what vacations are about. Pinnacle Buttes tower over this playground and the (307)733-1617 Tetons loom majestically in the distance. Greys River Valley www.jhwinterfun.com Snaking its way through the Togwotee Pass area is South of Jackson, near the mouth of the Snake the Continental Divide Snowmobile Trail (CDST). A River Canyon, lies the Greys River Valley, one of the Straight Answers • Good Advice 350-mile groomed trail, it connects Lander, Wyoming, locals’ favorite spots. This playground serves up every- to Pinedale, Jackson Hole, Yellowstone, and West thing a snowmobiler could want: towering mountains, 800-709-1617 Yellowstone. This sparkling chain strung among the great trail riding, and unlimited backcountry, the ulti- mountains is decorated with many jewels along its mate riding and powder hunting grounds. length.A vast network of groomed side trails connect a patchwork of open meadows. Overnight and Gros Ventre River Multi-day Trips Wildlife viewing is high on many visitors’ to-do If this menu of options sounds like too much to list. And a trip up the Gros Ventre Valley offers riders digest in one day, consider a multi-day excursion. just that–and then some. Starting just above the Gros String together several of these destinations with Ventre Slide,the trail closely follows the summer road. overnight stays in remote,snow-bound lodges. Start Since this is critical winter game habitat, travel is at one end of the trail and emerge at the other, never mostly restricted to the roadway. Willow bottom having to backtrack. Consider a three-night excur- lands are prime moose habitat and bighorn sheep sion through Yellowstone, staying at a different inhabit the cliffs to the north of the trail. Twenty lodge each night. miles up the Gros Ventre is an elk feeding ground. In So whatever you may be seeking in a snowmobile YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK the past few years these wintering elk have attracted experience,the palette of opportunity is broad.Don’t be Enjoy natural wonders while snowmobiling in the the attention of recently re-introduced wolves,so wolf afraid of the machine: just jump on and ride the magic nation’s 1st national park. sightings have become a distinct possibility. carpet of the great white open. GRANITE HOT SPRINGS Swim in the Granite Hot Springs 104 degree pool! TOGWOTEE PASS At 10,00 feet this tour’s powder snow is unmatched. GROS VENTRE ADVENTURE SNOWMOBILE TOURS View more wildlife & beautiful scenery than on any FEATURING TRIPS TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK & TOGWOTTEE PASS other High Country tour. GREYS RIVER ALSO GRANITE HOT SPRINGS, GROS VENTRE & GREY’S RIVER • OFFERING UNGUIDED RENTALS Unforgettable scenery and exciting rides await you at the base of these giant mountains. OVERNIGHT SNOWMOBILE ADVENTURE TOGWOTEE Our trips can be specially tailored to suit families and groups. We can combine any or all of the MOUNTAIN areas we represent. ALL TRIPS INCLUDE: Transportation to & from LODGE lodging,snowmobile gear, breakfast and lunch. 307-543-2847 800-543-2847 JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING Hwy 26-287 Moran,WY 800-524-0130 307-733-5017 2 convenient Jackson locations ALLBook TRIPS Online INCLUDE to better serve you Transportation to & from lodges, snowmobile suit, hel- GUIDED & UNGUIDED TOURS under permit BTNF an equal opportunity service provider met,www.hcsnowmobiles.com boots & gloves. Call for reservations. www.focusproductions. com 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 91 YellowstoneLook ye while ye mayWildlife by Bert Raynes Fill your eyes and mind with the shining mountains, the snow-covered steppes, the blue skies, the play of light and distance in the forests, the animals braving the season. FIn all too many places on earth,man has altered his pre-existing habitat so drasti- cally that many animal and plant species have vanished. Extirpated, gone forever. Overall, worldwide, the scene and scenario for wildlife verges on the tragic–innumer- able species disappearing each year,each day–far above previous rates of extinction in pre-historic times. Deforestation, desertization, single-crop farming practices, over- fishing, human overpopulation, and pollution are responsible. Some surviving species were forced to move elsewhere, if they could, or to modify their behavior to exist–or coexist–within the confines or interstices of their new situation.Come to that,man increasingly is forced to do the same.Yet our understanding of,and compassion for,wildlife’s welfare appear to be declining at an accelerating rate. Thankfully, in a few places on the planet, for reasons of enlightened thought and concern, or more likely, a disinterest in them or their habitat, wildlife yet flourish in a relatively natural state. A few places only, despite an increasing body of knowledge which points to the need for there to be very large areas set aside for many animals even to have a chance to exist in something like their pre-homoerectus situations. This is one of those places. When you visit large parks like Yellowstone and Grand Teton National parks, yet buffered from urbanization by surrounding national forests and all together making up the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem,take every opportunity to absorb all the scenery you can lay your eyes on: endless vistas and small scenes, bear and vole and squirrel and bison; vast expanses not altered by man; wild animals going about their lives Castle Geyser on a cold winter day. largely as they have been doing for thousands of years, behaving in response to instincts which evolved over millions of years (modified to var- Yellowstone and reflect that it could be lost, as it is always under ious extents by the presence of post-industrial man during the “...take every opportunity attack, always coveted for other uses. You might want to ally last two centuries). yourself with some of the organizations that devote their ener- Preserving what you see hasn’t been easy. By 1872, when to absorb all the scenery you gies to retaining or reclaiming some of the continent’s natural America created Yellowstone as the world’s first national park, can lay your eyes on: endless resources and treasures. much of the continental eastern United States had been altered vistas and small scenes, bear While it’s not possible to return even the Yellowstone region or defiled. Forests had been denuded, soil erosion in the plains and vole and squirrel and to prehistoric splendor,there have been steps taken in that direc- was deliberate and would become deadly, animal and fish tion. The wolf was absent for most of the 1900s, man having species were, or would shortly be, decimated. bison; vast expanses not eliminated and subsequently reintroduced the region’s top pred- A sorry record, which extends into today, and not compen- altered by man...” ator.Its return is to be celebrated.The wolfbelongs in sated for by a slow-growing awareness of the absolute need for Yellowstone,along with grizzly and black bears,the largest herds conservation and protection. Look ye while ye may at the wonders of Greater of elk in North America, bighorn sheep, and over 60 other mammal species. It’s now recognized that biodiversity requires large areas in which to behave nor- mally: even large parks like Yellowstone aren’t guarantees for wildlife,or for those who wish to observe wildlife literally wild...especially when crocheted with roadways and trails. The effects of a road, a visitors’ center, or campgrounds are manifold. Foot or horse trails are major dislocations.Isolation is,except for the exceptionally hardy,lost. Ah, but what is left is splendid; you can wait until you get home to join the conservation movement, but don’t forget to do it. Right now, though, fill your eyes and mind with the shining mountains, the snow-covered steppes, the blue skies, the play of light and distance in the forests, the animals braving the season. For a wild animal, surviving winter in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem requires luck, skill, and good instincts and genes. So, look ye while ye may. And you still can, in the GYE, see various animals responding primarily to long-held instinctual behavior and relatively little to modern man and his many implements. It’s important and rewarding to observe them.

Bert Raynes writes a weekly column in the Jackson Hole News & Guide.He has penned five publications covering the birds and animals of Grand Teton and Elk and Bison graze for meager fair in the Upper Geyser Basin. Yellowstone National parks. His latest book, Winter Wings,joins Valley So Sweet and Curmudgeon Chronicles in receiving well-deserved, wide acclaim. 92 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 WILDLIFE SURVIVAL WILD by NATURE You can help GALLERY DRIVERS BEWARE: 207 elk, moose, and deer were killed by cars in Jackson Hole between January 1 & July 31, 2006.

This shocking fact is true, reflecting a very real and growing problem associated with living and playing in an area so rich in wonderful wildlife: wildlife/vehicle collisions or, less refined, roadkill. In winter months animals move down to the valley floor in search of food and warmer temperatures. Wildlife, usually elk, moose, and deer, may be migrating, moving for daily needs, wintering on buttes, or merely browsing willows. As these animals move around,they cross our roads and often get trapped on roads with high snow banks. Wildlife/vehicle collisions are a no-win situation for drivers, wildlife, and autos. Not all wildlife/vehicle collisions can be avoided, but driver carelessness is taking its toll. As you travel through Jackson Hole,please drive cautiously and, more importantly, slow down. We share this valley with abundant wildlife,so expect it to be on or crossing our roads. Tips for driving with wildlife in mind include: • Expect wildlife on our roads. This is Jackson Hole and we “Spirit of the Buffalo” share this valley with wildlife. Wildlife & Landscape Photographs by • Ifyou encounter an animal on a road with high snow Henry H. Holdsworth banks,allow it to move down the road at its own pace,until it finds a place to jump off the road. Limited Edition Photographs, Books, Note Cards 95 W. Deloney • Behind the Wort Hotel • Box 2673 • Jackson, WY 83001 • 733-8877 • Scan the sides of the roads for wildlife. www.wildbynaturegallery.com • Stay alert while driving; be prepared to stop. • Wildlife cross roads primarily during dawn, dusk, and at night. Winter is an experience to be savored ... • If you see one elk, deer, or moose along a roadway, you are likely to see more. Let the Triangle C Ranch serve it up for you! • If you see an animal on the road,expect the unexpected. It doesn’t instinctively know how to react to your car. Give the Y ELLOWSTONE animal time and room to move off the road. Do not try to S NOWCOACH E XCURSIONS outrun it. • Tour in the comfort of a Ford Excursion • If you see a wildlife-crossing sign, pay attention. It’s there • Experienced, Knowledgeable Guides for a reason. • Breakfast & Lunch DON’T POACH THE POWDER The snow is falling, and everyone is eager to strap on the skis and get into the backcountry. It's also time to remember that many areas on public land in and around Jackson Hole are closed to protect wildlife winter range. When you see a sign indicating that the area is a winter-range closure area, turn back and find another area to ski, snowmobile, or walk your dog in. Winter-range closures are in effect from December 1 through April 30. These areas are closed for the well-being and COMPLETE WINTER RECREATION survival of wildlife populations in our valley. Your presence PACKAGES AVA I L A B L E could stress wildlife and endanger the survival of animals that • Dog Sled Trips • Snowmobiling are already living on depleted energy stores. These are the best • Cross Country Skiing • Snowshoeing reasons to turn back,but here’s another good one: it is illegal to • Yellowstone Snowcoach Excursions enter closed areas and you will be fined. • Lodging & Meals • Transportation Closure information with maps depicting the boundaries of the winter closure areas is posted at trailheads. If you see someone violating the winter closure, please help Lodging & Meals at an Historic Dude Ranch out by calling the Bridger-Teton National Forest District (307) 455-2225 or 1-800-661-4928 Office at 739-5400. www.trianglec.com email: [email protected] –Melissa Harrison, Jackson Hole Wildlife Foundation www.focusproductions. com 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 93 “Former Panamanian surf champ, known to us only as ‘Pimply,’ heads in the right direction on a left offshore reef pass at Leftovers in Panama.” Tuck Fauntleroy Tuck Riding the Seasons By Keith I. Cozzens Living in a ski town doesn’t mean you can’t surf

It was early, dark, and cold. I shuffled dogs. Fortunately, the valley is surrounded by numer- tion and time ofyear to ensure that the ocean isn’t around in circles grabbing all of my ous bodies of water that afford all types of sports, from going to be flat where you’re potentially headed. After gear, trying not to forget anything. sea kayaking to wind surfing to river boarding. So purchasing a plane ticket or modifying your vehicle to Passport…check. Sunscreen…check. Jacksonites can actually scratch their surfing itch. prepare it for the miles of endless beatings it will Boardshorts…check. Set to go. In fact, surfing on the Snake River at the standing inevitably receive on some less-than-perfect dirt roads, wave called Lunch Counter, one of the premier river- trips usually unfold with a mix of swell chasing, wave The snow-covered summits glowed in the mid- surfing spots in the country, is a great and unique way riding, beer drinking, and cultural immersion. April morning light as I motored to the airport, surf- And no surf trip would be complete without boards strapped to the top of the rig. The Jackson Hole ...in less than 48 hours I mounting your board and carving turns on as many Mountain Resort had just closed for the season, but peelers as possible. Standing and riding a pulse of nat- there was still plenty of white stuff in the backcountry. would be far removed ural energy that’s moving through a liquid medium can Although content with the 80-plus days I had logged, I from any sight of snow, bring indescribable joy. And that energy, when still wondered: shouldn’t I be snowboarding? absorbed correctly, charges our internal batteries and It was tempting.But I knew that in less than 48 paddling into uncrowded keeps us coming back for more. Every surfer will tell hours I would be far removed from any sight of snow, waves in tropical waters. you that all memorable sessions and epic waves never paddling into uncrowded waves in tropical waters. I stray far from the mind’s eye. was ready to leave the below-freezing temperatures to keep your skills sharp. Another up-and-coming behind for flip-flops-and-short-wearing weather near “surfingesque” activity in the valley is river boarding. Baja Exploits the equator. Holding fast to a long bungee-like cord tied off to a sta- After four hours of hovering across washboard dirt The annual surf pilgrimage, sometimes bi-annual if tionary point (such as a tree),surfers stand and ride the roads that had us bouncing out of our seats like mon- funds and time permit,from Jackson Hole to any attrac- rivers currents. Granted, both kinds of surfing are nice keys riding an angry bull, my surf compadre Tuck and tive southern spot is always an exciting odyssey I mark training tools, but nothing compares to the real thing. I finally arrived at the right-handed point break and highlight on my calendar. California, Baja, Mexico, With two distinct off-seasons separating the val- dubbed S-Bay.A bit of research on the Internet before- Costa Rica, Panama, Nicaragua, Guatemala, Hawaii, ley’s busy months, dedicated surfers always find a way hand had convinced us to travel to this pristine setting Indonesia,and the Maldives are just a few locations that to get out of town when times are slow. But, just as all because it was in the perfect location for the upcoming Jackson soul surfers journey to in search of culture, types of travel provoke planning, research, and saving swell. Known for its long clean waves, remoteness, and cheap living and, most importantly, groomed waves. money in pursuit of an exciting experience, surf travel scenic desert backdrop, S-Bay is the definition of ideal, Residing in a landlocked state isn’t easy, though. breeds a different mindset. so we decided to set up our tents on the bluff overlook- Obviously,living a surf lifestyle in a ski town is about as Planning starts months (sometimes years) in ing one of the six breaks. tough as going to China and finding, say, foot-long hot advance,and research is key to dialing in the right loca- And we managed to nail it–which was quite lucky because finding the right conditions isn’t a given. Over the course of our 12 days there, we surfed countless hours of top-notch sessions that marked the pinnacle of our trip. After about the fourth day, our arms felt like noodles and our shoulders throbbed, but it was a good pain and we didn’t let it stop us.Although we only focused on two of the six accessible breaks, there was no need to search because we were quite sat- isfied with what we got. We also watched other surfers get barreled, and made new friends with members of the traveling- surfer community. The breathtaking scenery, perfect weather, and refreshing blue water are all tightly cemented in my memory. And although riding as many waves as possible is Big Sky, Montana, skier and surfer Ross Duncan walks the beach after enduring the number one priority on any surf trip, immersing another 100-plus yard right-hand ride at S-Bay, central Baja.

Keith I. Cozzens, left and top right yourself in the culture and interacting with the local 94 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 our last nights, the island transformed into a huge dis- coteca for the Semana Santa holiday–the Holy Week before Easter.Led by jovial and comical Chefy,the most boisterous of the locals, boatloads of friends and family were transported to the small island for the evening’s festivities. And it was the real deal! Huge speakers, techno lights, a bar, and local traditions. All the locals were eager to show about eight of us sunburnt surfers a good time.A nice mix of probably 40 people were there, and I can honestly admit that I learned a few impressive dance moves from the indigenous ladies. What was most amazing to witness,though,was the care and interest the locals directed towards us. Jackson Hole resident Sam Sehnert soaks up Upon departure from their island, they all came out of the final light of the day after a small but fun sunset session at Playa Camaronal, Costa Rica. their wooden makeshift homes and gave us hugs and high-fives before we boarded the ponga back to the folks around you is just as rewarding as pulling-off a mainland. Being respected by the locals on a surf trip steep take-off or catching a tube that is far beyond your adds so much more meaning to what you’re really skill level. doing there. Partying Panamanian Style Like most good things, surf trips, unfortunately, Traveling in Panama on a surf excursion is one of come to an end. Surf travel really can take you to some the choicest set-ups when it comes to meshing waves amazing places, with amazing people and amazing and expenses. scenery. But hopping back on a plane or pointing the We spent nine days on a private island called Morro wheels back towards the valley is an emotional Negrito,where 10 different breaks in the vicinity dished moment, filled with reminiscence and reflection. Still, out plenty of waves.Each day we rose at sunrise and put arriving back in Jackson Hole after a trip is always a in a solid seven hours of paddling before settling in for shock to the system–even if you are coming back to one dinner.And the inhabitants of the island–which took 20 of the best places on earth. minutes via ponga boat to reach–were authentically Valley dweller Keith I. Cozzens is a sports writer vibrant and overflowing with interest in our culture. and freelancer. After snowboarding this winter he Separated from the mainland, most of the inhabi- plans to immerse himself in warm waters and culture tants have never left the island and their only contact at a secret Southeast Asian spot. with “society” has been with visiting surfers. On one of

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Triangle C – Yellowstone Snowcoach Excursions

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96 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 APPAREL❄ APRÉS❄ ART❄ GIFT❄ HOME ❄JEWELRY❄ LODGING APPAREL its second season offering an Apres Ski Menu and specialty ski shuttle. 330 W Pearl. 307-733-7550 or 1-800-451-2980 PG 35 drinks. A cozy refuge in the Lodge at White Pine Resort. 307- GRAND TARGHEE–TETON VALLEY, IDAHO HOMEWOOD SUITES-HILTON All-suite hotel located just off 367-6606 PG 61 the Town Square, featuring kitchens, gas fireplace, complimen- PEAKED SPORTS Alpine, Tele, AT, XC & Skate skis plus STOCKMAN’S SALOON Lounge & dancing 10am till 2pm. tary Suite Start Breakfast, hi-speed internet & indoor pool / Snowboards. Personal, friendly, expert service. Backcountry Package liquor store, spirits, wine & beer. 307-367-4562 PG 62 Whirlpool & fitness center. 260 N. Millward, Jackson 307-739- info. Sales, rentals, demos. 208 354 2354. PG 58 0808 PG 4 YOSTMARK MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT A full service backcoun- ART GALLERIES JACKSON HOLE LODGE Centrally located near Jackson’s town try & Nordic specialty shop, downtown Driggs. 208-354-2828. JACKSON square. Jackson Hole Lodge offers standard rooms as well as PG 58 one and two bedroom suites with full kitchens and fireplaces. HORIZON FINE ART Showcasing the finest in Western, 420 West Broadway. 800-604-9404/307-733-2992 PG 49 JACKSON & TETON VILLAGE Contempory and International art. We offer collectors a ALASKA FUR COMPANY Wide selection of fine furs, unique visual festival of color and originality for the discern- SNOW KING RESORT Full service hotel, condominiums, restaurant, shearlings, leathers, and fur accessories- from all occasion ing eye. 165 North Center, 1/2 block north of the Town room service cocktail lounge, heated pool, whirlpools, fitness room, to traditional to high fashion. Family owned and operat- Square. 739-1540 PG 21 complimentary airport/ski area transportation, ski-in/ski-out. 733- 5200 PG 51 ed since 1964. No middleman markup. 135 N. Cache. 307- CHILD’S PLAY & CARE 733-4772 PG 7 TETON VILLAGE & VILLAGE ROAD HOBACK SPORTS see SPORTS SHOPS PG 4 JACKSON HOLE KIDS RANCH in Cody House at JHMR. Infant ALPENHOF LODGE European style lodging and dining next to HOLE IN THE WALL SNOWBOARD SHOP see SPORTS SHOPS & child care: ages 6 month–2 years. Ski/snowboard programs for ages 3-17 years. Kids Ranch participants experience Fort the tram. Hot tub, pool, sauna, massage therapy, all in a cozy PG 29 lodge setting with friendly professional staff. 307-733-3242 PG 31 Wyoming, an outdoor playground, with a Magic Carpet surface JACK DENNIS OUTDOOR SHOP The finest ski wear & hard X lift. Teen camp available during JH Christmas, Winter & Spring THE HOSTEL A friendly family lodge, come and stay with us. goods. Located in Teton Village (733-6838); and on the Town Breaks. 307-739-2691 PG 29 Enjoy a comfortable, pleasant & inexpensive stay at the base of Square. 733-3270 PG 33 the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. 1 or 2 persons $58, 3 or 4 BABY SITTING The Teton County Department of Family JACKSON HOLE CLOTHIERS The best in contemporary Persons $70. 307-733-3415 PG 76 Western wear for men or women. Double D Ranchwear, Old Services has a list of certified independent child care personnel. 307-733-7757 JACKSON HOLE RESORT LODGING see PROPERTY MANAGE- Gringo Boots, Ryan Michael & much more. Take home a piece MENT PG 29 of the West from the heart of the West. North side of town GIFTS square. 733-7211 PG 3 TETON CLUB Ski-in, Ski-out, trailside condo located at the base JACKSON of the JH Mtn Resort. 2 & 3 bedroom exquisitely furnished con- JACKSON HOLE SPORTS see SPORTS SHOPS PG 29 dominiums and 5-star service make this property the only place JOLLY JUMBUCK LEATHERS Jackson’s premier fur, shearling, & JH RESORT STORE The official logo store of JH Mountain to stay while in Jackson Hole. 866-352-9777 PG 29 Resort, the source for logo apparel and gifts. Located on the leather apparel and accessory store. Recognized for impeccable TETON MOUNTAIN LODGE Luxury full service resort hotel quality, customer service and prices since 1973. Downtown town square, it is the in-town connection for lift tickets, snow conditions and activities. 739-2767 PG 29 located slope side at Jackson Hole. Cascade Restaurant, bar on- Jackson, 20 West Broadway, across from the Wort Hotel, site, room service, full service Spa, indoor-outdoor pools, hot www.jollyjubuckleathers.com. 733-6562 PG 17 GROCERIES tubs. 307-734-7111 PG 33 QUEENIE & CO. Fabulous fashions for women of all ages. PINEDALE, WYOMING Unique clothing, shoes, jewelry and other accessories at incredi- DORNAN’S TRADING POST Gourmet cheeses & specialty ble prices. Downstairs on the Town Square, 36 East Broadway. foods, full grocery, 24 hour gas available. ATM 733-2415, ext THE CABINS AT WHITE PINE In the breathtakingly, beautiful 732-0017 PG 22 201; In the Moose Village, Grand Teton National Park. PG 19 Wind River Mountains, enjoy our new luxury slope-side cabins. TERRA Find unique pieces from local artists as well as Calypso, WESTSIDE STORE & DELI Full grocery, delicatessen, meat dept. Handcrafted log homes with cozy fireplaces. 307-367-6606 PG Trina Turk, True Religion, Joe’s Jeans, James Perse, Robert Custom box lunch, natural & organic grocerys & produce, baked 61 Graham, Splendid, Lacoste, Anya Hindmarut. 105 E. Broadway. goods, pizza, semi prepared & prepared meal options. ATM & STOCKMAN’S Office & hotel suites, conference room, down- 307-734-0067 PG 23 movie rentals. On the Teton Village road, 5 miles before Teton town Pinedale. 307-367-4562 PG 62 TETON VILLAGE SPORTS see SPORTS SHOPS PG 104 Village at The Aspens. 307-733-6202 PG 55 THE LODGE AT PINEDALE Located in the center of Pinedale, WILSON BACKCOUNTRY SPORTS see SPORTS SHOPS PG 43 43 rooms, deluxe continental breakfast, indoor pool and ICE SKATING jacuzzi, complimentary high-speed internet, refrigerator & WILDERNEST SPORTS see SPORTS SHOPS PG 2 SNOW KING CENTER at the base of Snow King Ski Area offers microwave in every room. www.lodgeatpinedale.com. 866-995- APRÉS SKI indoor daily public skating. For an updated schedule and prices 6343 PG 63 call 734-3000 PG 51 TOGWOTEE PASS—DUBOIS JACKSON TOGWOTEE MOUNTAIN LODGE On the CD Snowmobile Trail, CADILLAC GRILLE LOUNGE “The Spot” for happy hour in JEWELRY full service lodge, 54 modern cabins, restaurant, lounge, hot Jackson Hole. Happening nightly from 5pm to 7pm. 2 for 1 DANSHELLEY JEWELERS Wearable works of art created by tubs, transportation, snowmobile rental, clothing, guides. 307- draft beer and all mixed drinks. Dinner or Billy’s Burger are Dan & Shelley, plus other designers using gold & gems. From 543-2847, [email protected] PG 47 & 91 also available in the bar while you are enjoying happy hour. diamonds to elk ivory & Teton charms. Gaslight Alley, just TRIANGLE C RANCH Complete winter recreation packages, 307-733-3279. On the town square next to the Cowboy Bar. off the town square. 733-2259 PG 5 “The Old West In Winter”–dog sled trips, snowmobile excur- PG 103 HINES GOLDSMITHS Jackson’s premiere gallery of fine jewelry sions, snowcoach to Yellowstone, lodging, meals. 43 NORTH Slopeside tavern located at the Base of Snow King designers since 1970. Elegant one-of-a-kind pieces, diamonds & Transportation available. 800-661-4928 PG 93 Mountain. Come enjoy aged steaks, wild game, and fine colored stones. The original Teton pendants & rings, & charms seafood. Live music. Fine selections of domestic and imported of the area. 80 Center Street, east side of town square. 307-733- beer. 307-733-0043 / 645 S. Cache PG 51 5599 PG 36 & 37 LODGING–PROPERTY MANAGEMENT SHADY LADY SALOON The locals’ favorite place to have a JC JEWELERS Jeter Case specializes in fine handcrafted origi- JACKSON HOLE RESORT LODGING Conveniently located next drink. Aprés Ski from 4:30-6:30 every evening. Daily drink spe- nals using noble metals & gem quality stones. Handcrafted to the Teton Village Market, Ski-in/ski-out lodging & accommo- cials. A showcase of local entertainment. Snow King Resort. Teton designs Western charms and elk ivory jewelry, in the log dation for all seasons. Affordable condos to luxury vacation 733-5200 PG 51 cabin just off Town Square, 132 N Cache. 733-5933 or 800-358- homes, for family getaways and reunions. 800-443-8613, 307- 733-3990 PG 29 SNAKE RIVER BREWERY The Great American Beer Festival’s 5715 PG 3 Small Brewery of The Year, 2000 & 2001. Serving tasty brews, delicious pizzas, pastas & sandwiches. Free WiFi. From 11:30 am LODGING PET SERVICES / SUPPLIES to Midnight, 7 days a week. 739-2337 PG 45 GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK RALLY’S PET GARAGE Jackson’s service center for your pet; TETON VILLAGE & VILLAGE ROAD offering everything from our self-service dog wash & full serv- DORNAN’S SPUR RANCH CABINS 1 & 2 bedroom log cabins ice grooming to doggie daycare & pet supplies. In the K-Mart ALPENHOF BISTRO Apres ski w/out an attitude. Located beside with full kitchen & living room. Located on the Snake River in Plaza, 520 S.Hwy 89. 307-733-7794 PG 87 the tram on the second floor of the Alpenhof Lodge. Come join Grand Teton National Park at Moose, with breathtaking views us for live entertainment Sunday and Thursday, daily drink spe- of the Tetons. 307-733-2522 PG 19 PHOTOGRAPHY cials and a large selection of microbrews. 307-733-3242 / 800- 732-3244 PG 27 JACKSON BROADWAY PHOTO CENTER Quality 35mm and APS & 120 film processing. Photos to CD. Prints from digital cameras. Film, CAFÉ 6311 In the Bridger Center at the base of the Bridger ANTLER INN Downtown Jackson. 100 units, hot tub, some fireplaces & suites, meeting room, fitness room. Ski packages avail- cameras, & accessories. 130 W Broadway, 1 1/2 blocks from the Gondola. Offering hot hoagies, hot bagel sandwiches and a Town Square. 307-733-6453 PG 37 variety of domestic and imported microbrews.PG 29 able & ski shuttle. 43 W Pearl. 307-733-2535 or 1-800-522-2406 PG 35 DD CAMERA CORRAL Jackson’s oldest full service camera CASCADE GRILL HOUSE & SPIRITS Located slope side at the store. Binoculars, digital & film cameras, including Nikon, Teton Mountain Lodge. Featuring daily Aprés Ski specials on COWBOY VILLAGE RESORT In the heart of Jackson Hole, Canon, Leica. Friendly & knowledgeable staff. 2-hour film & microbrews, cocktails and signature appetizers. 732-6932 PG 33 offers 82 individual log cabins accommodating groups of 2–6 people. Property amenities include kitchens in all cabins and digital processing. 60 So. Cache, across from Eddie Bauer. 307- NICK WILSON’S Cowboy Cafe in the Tram building, daily spe- two hot tubs. Ski packages available & ski shuttle.120 South Flat 733-3831 PG 15, 96 & 101 cials, sandwiches, burgers, chili, snacks & beer, wine & liquor. Creek Drive. 307-733-3121or 800-962-4988 PG 35 Aprés ski happy hour 3-6pm. PG 29 ELEVATION IMAGING is Jackson Hole Mountain Resorts exclu- ELK COUNTRY INN 88 units with 16 new log cabins. Family sive online photography company specializing in family and VILLAGE CAFE Next to the JH Tram dock. Breakfast, lunch & units with lofts. Hot tub & guest laundry. Ski packages available group portraits, and action photography. Please call to inquire Apres Ski. Espresso, baked goods, wraps, sandwiches & the best & ski shuttle. 480 W Pearl. 733-2364 or 800-4-TETONS PG 35 about your personal photo shoot. 307-733-4311 PG 37 pizza. 7am-10pm. Locals apres ski spot with full bar. 732-CAFE PG 37 FLAT CREEK INN & MART Great views of Gros Ventre Mtn. FOCUS PRODUCTIONS INC. Products include the Jackson Hole Range from every room. Microwave, fridge, coffee maker, Skier, JH Dining Guide, Mountain Country Magazine & ski WESTSIDE WINE & SPIRITS Offering a wide selection of the suites, winter & summer packages available, 1935 North Hwy posters. Commercial photography, stock photo file & editorial finest wines, liquors & beers from around the world. At The assignment. 307-733-6995. www.focusproductions.com Aspens, Teton Village Road. 307-733-5038 PG 55 89. 307-733-5276, 800-438-9338 PG 34 49ER INN AND SUITES Downtown Jackson. 142 units, 30 fire- WILD BY NATURE GALLERY features the wildlife & landscape PINEDALE, WYOMING place suites. indoor & outdoor hot tubs—fitness room—meet- photography of Henry H. Holdsworth. Behind the Wort Hotel, FIRESIDE LOUNGE AT WHITE PINE Enjoy the fireside lounge in ing facilities—continental breakfast. Ski packages available & 95 West Deloney. 307-733-8877 PG 93 www.focusproductions. com 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 97 REAL ESTATE❄ DINING❄ SKIING❄ SNOWBOARDING

SOLITUDE CABIN DINNER SLEIGH RIDES Wrap up in lap robes posters & photography. Read the online editions of Jackson Hole for a horse drawn sleigh ride at Teton Village. Enjoy a hearty 4 Skier, Mountain Country Summer Visitors Guide, & the Jackson course dinner in the comfort of Solitude Cabin. Live entertain- Hole Dining Guide. focusproductions.com, [email protected] ment, selection of beer & wine available. Reservations: 307-739- GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK 307-739-3300 2603 PG 29 INTERNET ACCESS POINTS Snake River Brewery-Free WiFi 739- VILLAGE CAFE Next to the JH Tram dock. Breakfast, lunch & 2337; Drive Design 733-7475; Hard Drive Cafe 733-5282; Apres Ski. Espresso, baked goods, wraps, sandwiches & the best Mountunes Internet Cafe 733-4514, RMO Cafe 734-9438. pizza. 7am-10pm. Locals apres ski spot with full bar. 732-CAFE PG 37 JACKSON HOLE & GREATER YELLOWSTONE VISITORS’ CEN- TER on North Cache Street in Jackson has information on all activ- WESTSIDE STORE & DELI DELICATESSEN Custom box lunch, ities in the area. Mon-Fri 8:00-5:00, Sat-Sun 10-2 pm. or call the natural & organic grocerys & produce, baked goods, pizza, semi JACKSON HOLE CHAMBER OF COMMERCE. 733-3316 prepared & prepared meal options. On the Teton Village road, 5 miles before Teton Village at The Aspens. 307-733-6202 PG 55 JACKSON HOLE GUEST SERVICE CENTER located under the tram dock has information on mountain & valley activities & GRAND TARGHEE & TETON VALLEY, IDAHO events, daily snow & weather conditions, Vertical Foot Club, Lost VICTOR EMPORIUM Ice cream & more. World Famous & Found. 739-2753 PG 29 Huckleberry Shakes. Something for every member of the family, JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN HOSTS Complimentary Mountain even the dog! Downtown Victor, 208-787-2221 PG 58 orientation tours leave from the front of Walk Festival Hall in Teton Village at 9:30 am daily. Hosts can answer questions & assist with anything from airline schedules to off mountain activities. GRAND TETON PARK 739-2697 PG 29 DORNAN’S PIZZA & PASTA Specialty pizzas, calzones, salads, JACKSON HOLE TICKET HOSTS at the JHMR are stationed out- pastas, sandwiches. Enjoy great food & the best view of the side the ticket office to help answer questions and acclimate skiers Tetons. Full service bar, open for lunch. M-F 11:30-3; Sat/Sun 11:30- and visitors to Teton Village and the mountain. PG 29 REAL ESTATE 5; Bar 10-6. 733-2415 ext 204. PG 19 JACKSON HOLE SKI CLUB Since 1938 has provided a ski educa- JACKSON tion foundation for Alpine, Nordic & Snowboard junior racers. For JACKSON HOLE & TETON VALLEY discounts on local services & merchandise, buy a membership at BILLY’S GIANT HAMBURGERS Jackson’s best, biggest & juiciest local ski shops. 733-6433 ED LIEBZEIT– ESTATE OF JACKSON HOLE For all your real estate burgers. All drinks & plenty of beer. Take-out too. Opens at 11:30. needs in Jackson Hole, Wyoming. 307-732-7464, 888-733-6060, Next to the Cadillac Grille. On the Town Square. 733-3279 PG 103 LOST OR STOLEN SKIS should be reported to the Sheriff’s Office email: [email protected] PG 79 733-4052 or through the Guest Service Center, 739-2753. THE BUNNERY Best breakfast in town, served all day. Fresh baked HERITAGE FINANCIAL Offers a complete range of lending serv- pastries & we proudly brew Starbucks Coffee. On North Cache, 1 SUBLETTE COUNTY VISITOR CENTER Better Than Yellowstone! ices. Locally owned & operated, we know Jackson Hole real estate block north of the town square. 734-0075. PG 27 Leave the crowds behind and discover a wild & remote country better than anybody else. For a better lending experience call us surrounded by 3 mountain ranges, abundant snow & wildlife. 1- CADILLAC GRILLE Atmosphere, food, service & price make this a today. PG 74 888-258-7282 PG 63 Jackson Hole favorite. Excellent steaks, game, seafood & pasta. RIVER RIM RANCH Designed to change the way you experi- Fabulous wine list. Local microbrews & your favorite cocktail. On REGISTER YOUR SKIS with the Teton County Sheriff. Serial numbers & ence your world. Cabins, golf homesites, chalets & ranch the Town Square. 733-3279 PG 103 make of skis are recorded. Stickers placed on skis helps deter theft. In homesteads. A Greg Norman Signature Golf Course & Sporting case of theft, information is entered in the FBI computer. All ski shops in THE GUN BARREL STEAK AND GAME Mesquite grilled steaks, Club provide unrivaled golf & fly fishing experiences,Tetonai, Teton Village & Jackson participate in the program. 733-4052 game & other New West selections, all served in our authentic Idaho. 866-484-1041 PG 57 lodge. Extensive collections of scotch, bourbon, draft beer, & SKI & SNOWBOARD STORAGE & LOCKERS Leave your gear at SARAH KERR–SALES ASSOCIATE, ART HAZEN REAL ESTATE extensive wine selection. 733-3287 PG 2 the mountain, convenient lockers & basket check available at the Get the right representation. Thorough market understanding, Bridger Center. 739-2755 PG 29 43 NORTH Slopeside tavern located at the Base of Snow King ski properties, ranches, homes, condos and vacant land. Call me Mountain. Come enjoy aged steaks, wild game, and fine seafood. TETON COUNTY LIBRARY has 50,000 books including a skiing today for your market update. 307-690-8605 PG 83 Live music. Fine selections of domestic and imported beer. 307- and mountain climbing section, periodicals, newspapers, histori- TETON VILLAGE REALTY To browse our listings or search for 733-0043 / 645 S. Cache PG 51 cal information and photographs. M-Th 10-9, Fri 10-5:30, Sat 10-5, other real estate opportunities in the greater Jackson Hole area, Sun 1-5. Closed legal holidays. Corner of Snow King and Virginian JACKSON HOLE BUFFALO MEAT Buffalo jerky, salami, smoked Lane. 733-2164 please visit our website at www.tetonvillagerealty.com. Teton roast, steaks & burgers. Gift packs, smoked trout, Elk & more! Free Village Realty’s team of effective real estate professionals can be Samples. 100% natural or certified organic. We ship. South end TETON VALLEY CHAMBER OF COMMERCE Downtown Driggs, reached any time toll free at 866-732-1801. pg 28 of Jackson, in Smith’s Plaza. 733-4159/800-543-6328 PG 103 Idaho. 208-354-2500 TETON VILLAGE REALTY–JACK DELAY, ASSOCIATE BROKER McDONALD’S OF JACKSON HOLE Where quality,service, cleanliness US POST OFFICE: Teton Village: M-F 9:30-4, Sat 9-12, 733-3575; In “Your Ace In The Hole” specializing in buyer representation with & value are a tradition. Featuring McDonald’s freshly prepared break- Jackson: New P.O.-corner of Powderhorn Ln & Maple Way; Old 5-Star Service. Offices located in town of Jackson and Teton fasts & regular menu favorites. Wi-Fi available for your convenience. P.O.-corner of Pearl Av & Millward St. 733-3650. Village. 307-690-8404 PG 75 5:30am–midnight. 1110 West Broadway at the “Y”. PG 45 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 307-344-7381 TETON VIEW REALTY Representing buyers and sellers. Licensed MOUNTAIN HIGH PIZZA PIE, also subs, salads, calzones. in Wyoming and Idaho. 307-733-4350 Check out our website: Traditional, whole wheat, or deep dish crusts. fresh veggie top- SERVICES – MEDICAL tetonviewrealty.com for a property request. 5355 West Hwy 22, pings. 11 am to 10 pm. On Broadway across from the Wort Hotel. ST JOHN’S TETON VILLAGE CLINIC 739-7346 Wilson, WY PG 31 WE DELIVER. 733-3646 PG 41 ST JOHN’S HOSPITAL 733-3636 3 CREEK RANCH Stunning 710 acre community with private Rees PEARL STREET BAGELS Classic boiled & baked bagels to rival any Jones golf course, 3 world-class creeks, Clubhouse & fitness center, you have known. Follow a local to the best espresso and brewed SKI MOUNTAINEERING, 3 unique ownership opportunities. 307-739-9292, 888-920-9292 coffee in town. Open daily, 6:30am-6pm, Healthy breakfast & PG 6 lunch menu. PG 40 AVALANCHE INFORMATION & EDUCATION RAFFERTY’S Casual fare located in Snow King Resort. Open daily SKI, & SNOWBOARD GUIDES RESTAURANTS–DINING serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Kid friendly, groups wel- ON THE MOUNTAIN AT come. Breakfast buffet, Seasonal Sunday Champagne brunch, full AVALANCHE HAZARD & WEATHER FORECAST 307-733-2664 JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT cocktail service. 307-733-5200 PG 51 see story PAGE 32 SNAKE RIVER BREWERY & RESTAURANT The Great American EXUM MOUNTAIN GUIDES is America’s oldest and most experi- BRIDGER RESTAURANT At the top of the Bridger Gondola. Three Beer Festival’s Small Brewery of The Year, 2000 & 2001. Serving enced guide service. We offer a full selection of guided mountain different eateries: Fine dining in the Couloir Restaurant; Headwall tasty brews, delicious pizzas, pastas & sandwiches. Free WiFi. From adventures for individuals, groups and families. Join us for a Deli–gourmet on the go; The Bridger Servery,a wide array of food 11:30 am to Midnight, 7 days a week. 739-2337 PG 45 unique winter experience. 307-733-2297 PG 41 stations that tempt the palette. PG 22 & 29 SWEETWATER RESTAURANT Locals’ favorite since 1976. Lunch & JACKSON HOLE ALPINE GUIDES lead you to untracked powder THE CASPER RESTAURANT at the bottom of Casper Bowl dinner in a log cabin. Homemade soups, salads, sandwiches, lamb, & guide you down challenging runs & through the backcountry. Chairlift serves fresh entrees, pastas, burgers, grilled chicken, steaks, full bar, deadly desserts & extensive wine list. Corner King Call Jackson Hole Mountain Sports School, 739-2663 PG 29 soups and chili, beer & espresso bar 9:30-3:30 pm daily. PG 29 and Pearl. 733-3553 PG 49 JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN GUIDES Since 1968. Join JHMG for CAFÉ 6311 In the Bridger Center at the base of the Bridger TETON STEAKHOUSE Breakfast buffet, lunch & dinner. Steaks, a day of untracked powder & solitude. Novice to expert ski tours, Gondola. Offering hot hoagies, hot bagel sandwiches, hearty salad bar, chicken, seafood. A local favorite! Corner of Pearl & Teton ski mountaineering, Level 1,2 & 3 avalanche courses & ice soups, espressos and coffees as well as domestic and imported Cache across from Antler Inn. A place where things are still the climbing. AMGA accredited. www.jhmg.com 307-733-4979 PG 40 microbrews. PG 29 same. 733-2639 PG 90 STEPHEN KOCH ALPINE ADVENTURES Backcountry skiing & CORBET’S CABIN at the top of the mountain. Serves soups & chili, snowboarding, mountaineering, rock climbing, & ice climbing. hot & cold drinks & snack items 9:30-3 pm daily. PG 29 PINEDALE Senior Exum guide with 20 years of first ascents and descents. GRUBSTEAK RESTAURANT. Pinedale’s finest dining, located on THUNDER CAFE at the bottom of Thunder Chairlift serves sand- www.stephenkoch.com 307-699-0202 PG 42 wiches, soups & snack items. PG 29 the third level of the White Pine Lodge. Prime rib, buffalo top sir- loin, seafood, pasta & much more. 307-367-6606 PG 61 RENDEZVOUS SKI TOURS SINCE 1986, Rendezvous has special- TETON VILLAGE & VILLAGE ROAD ized in guided backcountry ski and snowboard tours on Teton STOCKMAN’S RESTAURANT Fine dining for breakfast, lunch & ALPENHOF LODGE Innovative Swiss cuisine featuring cheese, dinner. Available for large groups, open 6am-10pm. AAA & Pass, in Grand Teton National Park, and at their three alpine yurts Chinoise and chocolate fondue’s. As well as other alpine special- Diamond rated. Downtown on Pine Street. 307-367-4562 PG 62 located on the western slope of the Tetons. 877-754-4887 www.skithetetons.com PG 43 ties. Reservations recommended. In Teton Village 307-733- THE WHITE PINE GRILL. Voted best Lunch and best burgers in 3242/800-732-3244 PG 31 Pinedale.Located on the second level of the White Pine Lodge. SNOW KING MOUNTAIN GUIDES We conduct trips off the back CASCADE GRILL HOUSE & SPIRITS Serving breakfast, lunch Enjoy a great meal and great scenery. 307-367-6606 PG 61 of Snow King and Teton Pass for both Nordic and alpine skiers. Apres Ski, & dinner. Featuring New Western Cuisine. Located slope 734-3030 PG 51 side at the Teton Mountain Lodge. 732-6932 PG 33 SERVICES & INFORMATION YOSTMARK MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT A full service backcountry & Nordic specialty shop. We offer guided ski tours & provide a full NICK WILSON’S Cowboy Cafe in the Tram building, daily specials, AVALANCHE HAZARD & WEATHER FORECAST 307-733-2664 line of rentals to insure the best tools & information for a quality sandwiches, burgers, chili, snacks & beer, wine & liquor. Breakfast- see story PAGE 32 lunch & aprés ski, 7:30am-6pm daily, happy hour 3-6pm. PG 29 outdoor experience. Downtown Driggs. 208-354-2828 PG 58 FOCUSPRODUCTIONS.COM Subscribe to our magazines, order

98 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 SHOPS❄ SLED DOGS❄ SLEIGH RIDES❄ SNOWMOBILING SKIING & SNOWBOARDING Lodge. Call for res. 307-455-3052/800-531-mush PG 86 JACKSON HOLE SPORTS THE mountain ski shop. We stock JACKSON HOLE IDITAROD SLED DOG ADVENTURES Half & Marmot, Mountain Hardwear, Spyder, Eider, Rossignol, K2, RESORTS, HELI– & CAT–SKIING full day trips into the Teton backcountry & Granite Hot springs. Salomon and more. Full service mountainside rental shop & ADVENTURE TRAVEL Learn mushing first hand, drive your own sled team. Meals, experienced repair, tuning & bootfitting services. Bridger Center, transportation, supplemental clothing provided. 307-733-7388 base of the Bridger Gondola, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. 307- 739-2687 PG 29 ALASKA RENDEZVOUS LODGE & HELI GUIDES, a full service [email protected] PG 87 lodge, operates out of Valdez, Alaska from March 1 through LOWRIDER BOARD SHOP Jackson’s only authorized Burton demo September, offering full service guides for Heli-skiing, whitewa- SLEIGH RIDES — DINNER & WILDLIFE center. Decks & boots by Northwave, Burton, Salomon & Atomic. ter rafting & fishing. 307-734-0721, 907-822-3300 PG 46 Clothes by Burton & Sessions. Tunes by grindrite. Downstairs in the GRAND TARGHEE SKI RESORT 1-800-TARGHEE NATIONAL ELK REFUGE SLEIGH RIDES View elk, mule deer, Pepi Stiegler Sports Plaza,Teton Village. 733-4505 PG 33 coyotes, eagles, bison, & more, while riding a horse drawn sleigh PEPI STIEGLER SPORTS Teton Village’s only ski-in, ski-out full HIGH MOUNTAIN HELI-SKIING flies skiers into the mountains thru the National Elk Refuge. Departs from the JH visitor’s cen- service ski shop. The valley's best ski tuning. Performance demo’s around Jackson Hole for day long powder skiing excursions for ter. 532 N Cache 307-733-0277; 1-800-772-5386 PG 19 intermediate to expert skiers. 733-3274 PG 47 complete rental department & overnight repair. 733-4505 PG 33 SOLITUDE CABIN DINNER SLEIGH RIDES Wrap up in lap robes PETER GLEN SKI & SPORTS Huge selection of ski & snow- JACKSON HOLE NORDIC CENTER at Teton Village is a full serv- for a horse drawn sleigh ride from Teton Village. Enjoy a hearty board clothing equipment & accessories for men, women, & ice X-C operation, with 17 km of machine groomed trails and 4-course dinner in the Solitude Cabin, live entertainment, beer & children, including Spyder, Obermeyer, Bogner, Burton, K2 & track. Full & half day tours into Grand Teton Park. Rentals,clinics wine is available. For reservations call 307-739-2603 PG 29 & lessons. 739-2629 PG 29 more! PG 76 RENDEZVOUS RIVER SPORTS is Jackson’s paddlesport head- JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT 307-733-2292; snow con- SNOWMOBILING quarters. We have a full selection of top brand merchandise ditions. 307-733-2291 see PG 29 BEST ADVENTURES Your best guided adventure of Yellowstone, and offer guided tours and lessons. 945 W. Broadway in the KING TUBES SNOW TUBING PARK A popular wild ride for no experience necessary. Hot breakfast & hot lunch at Old Sidewinders Building, Jackson. 307-733-2471 PG 95 fun lovers of all ages. Let our lift pull you up, then let grav- Faithful. New 4-stroke sleds, & warm clothing provided, double riders. 307-733-4845, 800-851-0827 PG 89 TETON MOUNTAINEERING Jackson’s backcountry shop, AT, ity take control of your own giant snow tube for the ride of Telemark, XC, skate skis & snowshoes. Rentals & tunes avail- your life down our custom tube run. Snow King Resort. 307- BLUE SKY HIGH The Chad Free snowmobile experience. Ride the able. Atomic, G3, Goode, Icelantic, K2, Karhu & SkiTrab, Arc’teryx, 734-TUBE PG 51 West your way & the right way. All riders & abilities, your best Marmot, Mountain Hardware, Patagonia, North Face, Ibex & Löle.170 LLAMA LOUIE’S RESERVATIONS Snowcat skiing at Grand source for snowmobile, avalanche, and outdoor schooling. Single North Cache, Jackson. 733-3595 PG 42 & multi-day schools. 734-0647,888-5-BLUE-SKY. PG 90 Targhee can be the ultimate powder experience. The Targhee TETON VILLAGE SPORTS Jackson Hole’s largest ski & snowboard Express will get you there. See us for any winter activity - in the GRAND TETON PARK SNOWMOBILE RENTAL Unguided snow- rental & demo center. Online reservations. Völkl, Technica, Head, Mangy Moose, Teton Village. 733-1617 PG 91 mobile rentals into both National. parks or Togwotee Mt. Your Rossignol, Salomon, Marker, The North Face, Arcteryx, Cloudveil, NIGHT SKIING AT SNOW KING RESORT. New triple chairlift, schedule,your pace, 1/2 day specials. Clothing included. Teton Isis, Bogner, Black Diamond. Custom footbeds, repair shop, In the extensive snowmaking, snowboard park, night skiing Tues-Sat views & wildlife. Age 12 yrs. & up. Transportation, airport drop- Crystal Springs Lodge. 733-2181. PG 104 until 8:00pm. Hourly tickets available. Ski report hot line 734- off avail. 307-733-1980, 800-563-6469 PG 89 WILDERNEST SPORTS Full service ski shop with the latest ski & 2020 PG 51 HIGH COUNTRY SNOWMOBILE TOURS Day & multi-day tours snowboarding equipment, fashions, custom bootfitting & NORDIC CENTERS Six maintained tracks and centers are open to to Yellowstone, Togwotee, Gros Ventre, Granite Hot Springs, & footbeds, repair & rental shop. Demo skis & boots, next to the the public in the Jackson Hole & Yellowstone area. See PAGE 76 Greys River. Breakfast & hot lunch, clothing, transportation. An clock tower in Teton Village. 307-733-4297. PG 2 for more information. experience of a lifetime. 733-5017, 800-524-0130. PG 91 WILSON BACKCOUNTRY SPORTS Sales and rentals of Telemark, RENDEZVOUS SKI TOURS Since 1986, Rendezvous has special- JACKSON HOLE SNOWMOBILE TOURS Over 20 years of family Randonee gear & snowshoes. Skis by K2, bindings by Fritschi. Free ized in guided backcountry ski and snowboard tours on Teton guided tours. Yellowstone, Granite Hot Springs, Togwotee Pass backcountry info. Located in Wilson at the base of Teton Pass, 10 Pass, in Grand Teton National Park, and at their three alpine & Continental Divide. Current model powder & 4-stroke snow- minutes from Jackson and Teton Village. 307-733-5228 PG 43 yurts located on the western slope of the Tetons.877-754-4887 mobiles, experience makes the difference. 733-6850, 800-633- PINEDALE www.skithetetons.com PG 43 1733 PG 89 WHITE PINE SKI & SPORTS Sales, rental & repair of skis & snow- SNOW KING SKI RESORT Full-day, 1/2 day & 2-hour lift tickets LLAMA LOUIE’S RESERVATIONS We can make snowmobiling available. Located in the town of Jackson. 307-733-5200 PG 51 boards. Located on level-one at the base lodge of White Pine Ski simple for you. See us for any winter activity - in the Mangy Area.Featuring the latest equipment & clothing. Rossignol, Volkl, SNOW KING HALF PIPE & TERRAIN PARK for snowboarders, Moose, Teton Village. 733-1617 PG 91 Atomic & K2. 307-367-7222 PG 61 served by 2 chairlifts. 307-733-2020 PG 51 ROCKY MOUNTAIN TOURS Day & multi-day tours of GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK TOGWOTEE MOUNTAIN SNOWCAT ADVENTURES Explore the Yellowstone, Gros Ventre, Togwotee, Granite Hot Springs & Greys backcounty with the only snowcat ski operation in Jackson Hole. River. Day tours include breakfast, lunch & transportation. 733- DORNAN’S GIFT SHOP Rental & sales of cross-country skis, snow Steeps, tight trees, tons of snow, and the best views in the area. 2237 800-647-2561. email: [email protected] PG 90 shoes. 733-2415, ext 301 In the Moose Village, Grand Teton National Park. PG 19 Located on Togwotee Pass. Call for reservations. 1-800-543- TOGWOTEE MOUNTAIN LODGE Premier Snowmobile location. 2847; 307-543-2847 PG 47 Guided & unguided tours, rentals available, package rates. SURF CAMP WHITE PINE SKI AREA & RESORT Join us in the beautiful Wind Featuring trips to Yellowstone & Togwotee Pass. Cabins, lodge PANAMA River Mountains, 10 miles north of Pinedale, Wyoming. Lodge, rooms & suites. 543-2847 or 800-543-2847, restaurants, cabins, pub & conference room, ski school, rental, [email protected] PG 91 MORRO NEGRITO PANAMA SURF CAMP Uncrowded warm water surf adventure on a private island in Panama. Surf-breaks repairs & retail. 307-367-6606 PG 61 TRIANGLE C RANCH TOURS Single & multi-day trips on the for beginner, intermediate and advanced surfers. Come for the Continental Divide Trail. Polaris powder machines, Clothing surf experience of a lifetime. www.surferparadise.com PG 95 SKI & SNOWBOARD RENTAL DELIVERY included, transportation available. Overnight lodging, snowmo- JACKSON HOLE bile from your cabin. 800-661-4928 PG 93 SWIMMING POOL-REC CENTER ALPENGLOW SKI VALET Don’t hassle with lines at the rental SNOWSHOE TRIPS JACKSON HOLE counter, have the latest gear delivered. Competitive rates Delivery hours 7:30 am-9:30pm. Call toll free 800-733-6919 or A.J. De ROSA’S WILDLIFE SNOWSHOE ADVENTURES One-of- TETON COUNTY – JACKSON RECREATION CENTER Hot tub, book online www.alpenglowskivalet.com PG 102 a-kind winter excursions, guided walks through valley land- lap pool, warm water leisure pool, 185 ft. Water slide, sauna, scape to a cozy tipi on the banks of the Snake River. Hot lunch steam, full court basketball gym. Open 7-days a week. 155 E. Gill SKIS – CUSTOM MADE beside a crackling fire. Starlight & moonlit trips also. 732-BOAT. St. 307-739-9025 PG 19 PG 19 JACKSON HOLE TRANSPORTATION IGNEOUS Custom Skis, hand crafted in Jackson Hole. 734-8788 SPORTS SHOPS www.igneousskis.com PG 81 GROUND & LIMO-CAR RENTAL GRAND TARGHEE – TETON VALLEY, IDAHO LLAMA LOUIE’S RESERVATIONS Targhee Express Bus. 733-1617 SKI & SNOWBOARD SCHOOLS PEAKED SPORTS Alpine, Tele, AT, XC and Skate skis plus See Alpine Skiing & Snowmobiling. PG 91 Snowboards. Personal, friendly, expert service. Backcountry info. EMPIRE FREERIDE SKI AND SNOWBOARD CAMPS Offering START BUS Jackson to Teton Village - Schedules , routes & fares are Sales, rentals, demos. Overnight tunes and repairs. 208-354-2354. freeskiing & snowboarding camps & events for all ages and riders available at bus stops, lodgings & information centers. 733-4521 with advanced abilities. Top level coaching from some of the indus- PG 58 tries best pros. Winter & summer camps in Jackson Hole, Beartooth YOSTMARK MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT A full service backcountry WATCHES Pass, Montana & Mammoth, California. 1-307-690-1310 PG 76 & Nordic specialty shop. We offer guided ski tours and provide a full line of rentals to insure the best tools and information for a HINES GOLDSMITHS Authorized dealer of fine Swiss Watches: THE GREAT AMERICAN SKI SCHOOL at Snow King Resort is quality outdoor experience. Downtown Driggs. 208-354-2828. CARTIER, CHOPARD, BAUME & MERCIER, TAG HEUER, SWISS under the direction of Bill Briggs. A unique down to earth PG 58 ARMY. 80 Center Street, 307-733-5599, east side of town square. approach to ski instruction. 734-3030 PG 51 PG 37 JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN SPORTS SCHOOL under the direc- JACKSON–TETON VILLAGE–WILSON tion of Brian Maguire. The complete mountain experience with HOBACK SPORTS Featuring the latest Wintersteiger tuning YELLOWSTONE SNOWCOACH TOURS children’s programs, Alpine guides, snowboarding, specialty machines. Overnight repairs, full ski & snowboard rental shop, YELLOWSTONE SNOWCOACH EXCURSIONS TRIANGLE C camps, telemark, adaptive skiing. 739-2663 PG 29 retail sales of major brands, specializing in expert bootfitting. RANCH Ride in the luxurious comfort of an over-the-snow Ford MAX LUNDBERG MOUNTAIN SPORTS SCHOOL AT WHITE Located in Jackson at 520 W. Broadway. 733-5335 PG 4 Excursion. Breakfast & Lunch. Experienced & knowledgeable HOLE IN THE WALL SNOWBOARD SHOP Teton Village’s origi- PINE Led by Max Lundberg, the ski school is unique, personal & guides. 800-661-4928 PG 93 nal Snowboard Shop Boards and Demos from Burton, Option, friendly. Private & group lessons. 307-367-6606 PG 61 Nidecker, Salomon & Lib Tech Technical outerwear from Arc’ PADDLE SPORTS teryx, Burton, 686, Roxy and more upstairs in the Bridger Center SLED DOG ADVENTURES at the base of the gondola. 307-739-2689 PG 29 JACKSON HOLE CONTINENTAL DIVIDE DOGSLED TOURS Hourly trips at Grand JACK DENNIS OUTDOOR SHOP The finest ski wear & hard RENDEZVOUS RIVER SPORTS Jackson’s paddle sport headquar- Targhee Resort and Teton Village. Half and full day trips at goods. Complete rental dept. performance demos, overnight ters. We have a full selection of top brand merchandise & offer Togwotee Mtn Lodge and overnight trips into our backcountry repair. Located in Teton Village. 733-6838 & on the Town Square. guided tours & lessons. 945 W. Broadway in the Sidewinders yurt on the Continental Divide. Full day trips to Brooks Lake 733-3270 PG 33 Building. 307-733-2471 PG 95 www.focusproductions. com 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 99 Grand Teton 13,770 ft. South Teton Mount Owen Middle Teton 12,514 ft. Mount Moran 12,928 ft. 12,804 ft. GRAND TARGHEE 12,605 ft. RESORT Peaked Mt. Elevation 9,700 ft. Fred's Mt. Elevation 10,000 ft.

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B T A l o T C w H l 2-High Speed Quad Chair, 1-Quad chair, 1 E e R Zon Be un gin ' F ne S s r ha id Ar d rth Boundary Traverse K e o double chair, 1 magic carpet. No a w W om an S H O S H Snowcat Skiing on O N E B Mi e e ll Creek Travers gi nn Peaked Mountain er Ar MAGIC Nordic ea CARPET Area RESORT FACILITIES Skiable acres: 1,000 plus Nordic Track Base Elevation 8,000 ft.

Vertical rise: 2,000 ft Nordic Longest run: 3.2 miles Area

SNOW KING SKI AREA Mountain Characteristics Skiable terrain: 400 plus acres, 15% beginner, 25% intermediate, 60% advanced. Vertical rise: 1,571 ft. Longest run: 9/10 mile. Base Elevation: 6,300 ft. Top elevation 7,871 ft. 300 acres of machine groomed terrain. • Night Skiing. • KingTubes Snow Tubing Park. • Half Pipe & Terrain Park Ski Lifts 1 triple chair, 2 double chairs, 1 surface tow.

WHITE PINE SKI AREA & RESORT Mountain Characteristics Lift serviced terrain: 380 acres, 20% beginner, 60% intermediate, 20% advanced. Vertical rise: 1,100 ft. Longest run: 1.5 miles. Base elevation: 8,400 ft. Top elevation: 9,500 ft. Average annual snowfall: 250 inches.

Ski Lifts 2-Triple Chairs, 1-Surface Lift

100 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 Jackson’s Picture Place Since 1960

Incredibly Advanced. Remarkably Simple.

The Power of • First Digital ELPH to feature Canon’s Image Stabilizer Technology for steady, long-zoom shooting. • High performance digital SLR with 10.1 Megapixel Canon CMOS Canon Optics • High-quality 6.0 Megapixel CCD, 4x Optical Zoom lens and elegant tri- Sensor and DIGIC II Image Processor. in an All color Perpetual Curve design. • Large 2.5-inch LCD monitor with new user interface and wide view- • New ISO 800 reduces image blur and expands low-light shooting ability. ing angle. Fast 3 frames-per-second shooting with 27-frame burst Weather Body • DIGIC II Image Processor and iSAPS Technology for superior image and a 0.2 second startup time. High precision, wide area 9-point •Built-in Image Stabilizer (IS) provides shake-free quality, faster operation and lower power consumption. autofocus system. performance • 16:9 Widescreen mode for full-screen viewing on widescreen TVs and • Picture Style settings for a broad range of control over color, contrast •High magnification ratio: 18x and 15x computer monitors. and sharpening. Print/Share button featuring advanced camera direct capabilities for greater user control while direct printing. •Doublet Field Flattener for sharp, distortion-free images • Fast Frame Rate Movie Mode for shooting high-quality movies up to from edge to edge 60 fps QVGA (320 x 240). • Fully compatible with over 50 EF and EF-S Lenses and a wide range of EOS System accessories. •Extra-bright, large diameter 50mm objective lens • Print/Share Button for easy direct printing and downloading, plus ID Photo Print and Movie Print with Canon CP and SELPHY Compact • Strong, lightweight body with the EOS Integrated Cleaning System •Long eye relief: 15mm Photo Printers. including a Self Cleaning Sensor Unit. • Water-resistant construction with non-slip ubberized grip Warranty available for inspection at authorized Canon dealers. Warranty available for inspection at authorized Canon dealers. Warranty available for inspection at authorized Canon dealers.

• Tripods Professional Film Processing CACHE PEARL Canon Authorized Dealer www.canon.com

JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT Mountain Characteristics Skiable terrain: 2,500 acres, 10% beginner, 40% intermediate, 50% advanced. Base elevation 6,311 ft. Summit elevation: 10,450 ft. Vertical rise: 4,139 ft. (longest continuous in the country). Longest run: 4.7 miles. Average annual snowfall: 38 feet (456 inches). 22 miles of machine groomed terrain.

Ski Lifts 1 eight-passenger gondola, 6 quad chairs (2 high speed) 2 triple chairs, 2 double chair 1 magic carpet surface lift

www.focusproductions. com 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 101 Skier 3col 2006 ad.ai 10/10/06 2:17:49 PM

APPAREL PET CARE Alaska Fur Company – 7 Rally’s Pet Garage – 40 89 To: GRAND TETON & YELLOWSTONE Hoback Sports – 32 26 NATIONAL PARKS PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEO Jolly Jumbuck Leather – 19 191 JACKSON HOLE AIRPORT Meeting Place for 189 Jack Dennis Outdoor Shop – 21 Broadway Photo Center –17 TOGWOTEE PASS National Elk Refuge Jackson Hole Clothiers – 11 DD Camera Corral – 26 Sleigh Rides JACKSON Queenie & Co. – 20 Wild By Nature Gallery – 4 NORTH C Jackson Hole & Terra – 16 1 Greater REAL ESTATE Ye llowstone WYOMING Visitors ’ ART - JEWELRY - GIFTS -HOME Ed Liebzeit- Real Estate of Jackson Hole – PERRY ST ACHE Center ELEVATION: 6,209 FEET DanShelley Jewelers – 6 22 TETON COUNTY U. S. FOREST 1,892 METERS Hines Goldsmiths – 14 Sarah Kerr –Art Hazen Real Estate– 9 HISTORICAL CENTER SERVICE MAP NOT TO SCALE Horizon Fine Art – 12 Jack Delay–Teton Village Realty – 5 MERCELL • © 2006 Focus Productions Inc. Teton Village Real Estate – 5 • HOME RANCH Jackson Hole Resort Store – 15 2 • Teton County PARKING Recreation JC Jewelers – 10 RECREATION GILL AVE LOT Center KING

• CENTER Jackson Hole Mountain Guides – 3 • DINING & ENTERTAINMENT King Tube Tubing Park – 35 MILLER • PARK 8 Billy's Giant Hamburgers – 13 Rendezvous River Sports – 38 3 7 12 TOWN GROS VENTRE 9 PARKING The Bunnery – 9 Snow King Center & Ice Rink – 35 K JH MUSEUM 4 5 6 LOT E 10 11 ST. JOHN'S Snow King Mountain – 35 E Cadillac Grille –13 R DELONEY AVE MORAN HOSPITAL

C JACKSON 43 North – 34 T 14 SKI & SPORTING GOODS SHOPS A 13 L TOWN 15 Gun Barrel Steak & Game House – 37 Hoback Sports – 32 F Jackson Hole Buffalo Meats – 43 Jack Dennis Sports – 21 SQUARE 16 • WEST. BROADWAY • EAST BROADWAY REDMOND ST. Rendezvous River – 38 • GROS VENTRE

McDonald's of Jackson Hole – 39 • JEAN ST • 17 18 19 • 20 21 22 Mountain High Pizza – 18 Teton Mountaineering – 8 23 Pearl Street Bagels – 24 SNOWMOBILING 26 Rafferty's Restaurant – 36 High Country Snowmobiling – 42 • PEARL AVE 24 25 27 JACKSON • TOWN HALL Shady Lady Saloon – 36 Jackson Hole Snowmobile Tours – 1 • 28 30 $ BANK 31 F COUNTY JAIL Rocky Mountain Tours – 41 L Snake River Brewery – 33 29 TOWN A U.S. POST SHERIFF'S OFFICE SOUTH T OFFICE PARKING Sweetwater Restaurant – 27 32 C LOT SIMPSON AVE TETON COUNTY R CLISSOLD

KING COURT HOUSE

Teton Steakhouse – 25 E GLENWOOD K

33 CACHE D

LODGING R HANSEN AVE

TO : SPRING I V JACKSON

Antler Motel – 31 CREEK RANCH E

Cowboy Village Resort – 29 KELLY AVE HALL AVE

38 VIRGINIAN Elk Country Inn – 28 • 49er Inn – 30 T. BROADWAY • WILLOW WYO WES • WEST KARNS MILLWARD KELLY AVE

Homewood Suites Hilton – 2 22 • 37 V

POWDERHORN

• KARNS AVE I 39 N Jackson Hole Lodge – 23 B Food Town LANE

• Teton County E U Snow King Resort – 36 F F A ALPINE LN Fair & Rodeo CACHE CREEK DR SCOTT LN Albertsons L O TETON COUNTY Grounds POWDERHORN SMITH LN 36 W PARK LIBRARY

A Y START Bus SNOW KING AVE ICE To: TETON VILLAGE, • offices & SKATING • MAPLE WAY 34 • K-MART Jackson RINK PHIL BAUX PARK R JACKSON HOLE A F Public Works ASPEN DR. F E 40 U.S. POST R MOUNTAIN RESORT, 35 T SNOW KING Y KING OFFICE C TUBE CENTER H WILSON, MEADOWLARK LN COUGAR TRIPLE CHAIRLIFT A TUBING & ICE RINK IR L • PARK T IF JH RACQUET CLUB, R K P A • IF T H L U T A D • IR O O HUFF LN A TETON PINES, S R H START BUS STOPS C IT VICTOR & DRIGGS, 41 M To: HOBACK & ALPINE JCTS., M Schedules, Routes, & Fares U SNOW KING GRAND TARGHEE 89 S 26 PINEDALE, are available at Bus Stops, Lodgings, & IDAHO FALLS 42 191 MOUNTAIN & SKI AREA 43 ROCK SPRINGS, Information Centers, or call 733-4521. Smith’s 189 • SALT LAKE CITY H IGH SCHOOL • ROAD •

102 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 2007 Celebrating over 24 years, conveniently located on the town square. Serving Black Angus steaks, game, fresh seafood and pasta.

Innovative dishes prepared with the freshest ingredients makes the Cadillac Grille a local favorite. The CADILLAC GRILLE Premium well drinks, an excellent wine list and 733-3279. Reservations advised. Large groups are welcome microbrews. Join us Open daily at 11:30 a.m., dinner at 5:30 p.m. nightly in our lounge for www.cadillac-grille.com email: [email protected] On the Town Square, next to Billy’s Giant Hamburger Happy Hour 5-7 p.m.

307.733.4159 800.543.6328

We’re a Jackson Hole MUST-SEE! Buffalo & Elk Try free samples Steak Pack in our factory store on Hwy 89 100% Natural 100% Natural at Smith’s Plaza. MADE IN JACKSON HOLE Buffalo Filet 100% Natural

Trapper-Style Buffalo Jerky 100% Natural www.buybuffalomeat.com call 800.543.6328 for a free catalog www.focusproductions. com 2007 JACKSON HOLE SKIER 103 Photo: Wade McKoy Skier: Lynsey Dyer