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Touring in 1600 : a Study in the Development of Travel As a Means of Education

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Touring in 1600 : a Study in the Development of Travel As a Means of Education TOURING IN I6OO TOURING IN I6OO A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of Education By E. S. BATES With Illustrations from Contemporary Sources LONDON: CONSTABLE & CO. LIMITED BOSTON AND NEW YORK HOUGHTON MIFFLIN COMPANY 191 1 COPYRIGHT, 1911, BY B. S. BATES ALL RIGHTS RESERVED 1105723 TO t> CONTENTS I. SOME O*F THE TOURISTS 3 II. GUIDE-BOOKS AND GUIDES 35 III. ON THE WATER 60 IV. CHRISTIAN EUROPE PART I. EUROPEAN EUROPE 95 PART II. THE UNVISITED NORTH 154 PART III. THE MISUNDERSTOOD WEST 1 62 V. MOHAMMEDAN EUROPE PART I. THE GRAND SIGNOR 1 82 PART II. JERUSALEM AND THE WAY THITHER 2O5 VI. INNS 240 VII. ON THE ROAD 284 X VIII. THE PURSE 313 SPECIAL REFERENCES 381 BIBLIOGRAPHY 389 INDEX 47 ILLUSTRATIONS DEPARTURE OF A TOURIST Frontispiece (British Museum MS. Egerton 1222, fol. 44.) A PILGRIMAGE SCENE 18 From a woodcut by Michael Ostendorfer (1519-1559) or perhaps by his master, Albrecht Altdorfer. Both lived at Regensburg, where the scene of this picture is laid, this shrine of Our Lady of Regensburg being a regular pil- grimage centre (British Museum}. THE CHEAPEST WAY 22 " Les Bohemiens" (no. i) by Jacques Callot (1594- 1635). The artist ran away from home to Italy when a youngster and fell in with company of this kind on the road. The second state (1633; British Museum) has been reproduced in preference to the first as being in no way inferior and having the advantage of the verses ap- pended to them by another traveller of the time, the Abbe de Marolles. A TYPICAL TOWN-PLAN 52 Map of Venice, illustrating especially the disregard of " scale. From H. de Beauveau's Relation journaliere," 1615. A TYPICAL MAP 54 " Part of Flanders, from Matthew Quadt's Geographisch Handtbuch," 1600. Illustrates the approximateness of detail and the absence of roads, especially as contrasted with the indications of waterways. But it must be noted that cartography made as great advances during the period here dealt with as surgery dbring the nineteenth century. Illustrations A CHANNEL PASSAGE-BOAT 64 From Munster's "Cosmographie," 1575 (. 863 part of the map of Germany) . SHIP FOR A LoNG-DlSTANCE VOYAGE 72 Dutch vessel, showing the open cabins at the stern in which Moryson preferred to sleep. From J. Furtenbach's "Architectura Navalis," 1629. LOCK BETWEEN BoLOGNA AND FfiRRARA 82 From J. Furtenbach's -"Newes Itinerarium Italics" 1627. There were nine of these in thirty-five miles. Fur- tenbach's sketch shows an oval basin as seen from above, with lock-gates at the down-stream end only. He gives its measurements as large enough for three vessels, with walls twenty ells high. GATE OF ST. GEORGE, ANTWERP 122 The gate as it appeared about the middle of the sixteenth century (Peter Bruegel the elder: Bibl. Royale de Bel- gique), showing also the long covered waggon which was practically the only land conveyance in use, apart from litters. VENETIAN MOUNTEBANKS 134 Painted between 1573 and 1579; from a Stammbuch (British Museum MS. Egerton 1191). Concerning these mountebanks the French traveller Villamont writes - it that i. e. the in 1588, 'And if happens they [ 'sights' 1 of Venice] bore you, go and look at the 'charlatans in St. Mark's Place, mounted on platforms, enlarging on the virtues of their wares, with musicians by their side.' PUBLIC EXECUTIONS 136 The "Supplicium Sceleri Froenum" of Jacques Callot (1592-1635). The first state of the etching seems to be unobtainable for reproduction, this being from a photo- Illustrations XI graph (the only one hitherto reproduced?) of one of the better copies of the second slate, almost equally rare in a good condition (Dresden Museum). DANGERS OF THE NORTHERN SEAS 156 " According to Miinster's Cosmographie" 1575 (M. 1724). AT MONTSERRAT 164 Montserrat and its hermitages, with the Madonna and Child in the foreground and two pilgrims. From Brit- ish Museum Harleian MS. 3822, folio 596. The two pilgrims are obviously the writer of the manuscript, Diego Cuelbis, of Leipzig, and his companion, Joel Koris. They visited Montserrat in 1599. AN IRISH DINNER 178 Referring more particularly to the MacSweynes, "whose usages" says the author, John Derricke, in his ".Image of Irelande," 1581, "7 beheld after the fashion there set down." From the copy (the only complete one known) in the Drummond Collection in the Library of the Uni- versity of Edinburgh. The cut also illustrates the con- trasts in Irish life as seen by the foreigner, referred to in the chapter on Ireland. AN EXAMPLE OF TURKISH FINE ART 190 Miniature illustrating some of the characteristics of Turkish art which Delia Valle and other contemporary travellers prized so highly. The brilliant colouring of the original throws into relief much detail in the flowers which is necessarily lost in reproduction. (From Brit. Mus. Add. MS. 15,153 ; a copy of the Turkish transla- tion of the Fables of Bidpai, dated 1589.) PILGRIMS LEAVING JAFFA FOR JERUSALEM, 1581 210 From the MS. of Sebastien Werro, cure of Fribourg (Bibl. de la Societe Economique de Fribourg). Showing also the fort at Jaffa, the caves in which pilgrims had to Xll Illustrations lodge until permission was given to depart, and the per- emptory methods of the Turks when a pilgrim got out of the line of march. AT MOUNT SINAI 222 " From Christopher Furer's Itinerarium" (1566). ARMS OF A JERUSALEM PILGRIM 238 Arms of Sebastien Werro, cure of Fribourg, Switzer- land, surmounted by the arms of the Knights of the Holy Sepulchre, showing that he received that knighthood on the occasion of his pilgrimage thither, 1381. The title- page of the account of his journey written by himself (Bibl. de la Societe Economique de Fribourg). Two GERMAN KITCHENS 254 ' The 'fat' and the 'lean. Plates 58 and 63 of J. T. de Bry's" Proscenium Vita Humana" ("Emblemata Sa- cularia"). From the copy of the first edition (1596) in the Bodleian Library at Oxford. GERMAN BATHING-PLACES 268 From Munster's Cosmography; two of the woodcuts are from the French edition of 1575 (ii. 1020-21), the other from the Latin edition of 1550. Visitors to Berlin will find the subject more artistically illustrated by the " Jugendbrunnen" of Lucas Cranach the younger, too large for reproduction here to do it justice. THE RED GATE, ANTWERP 272 As it was about the middle of the sixteenth century (plate I of Peter Breugel the elder's "Prcediorum Fillarum . hones"; Bibl. Royale de Belgique), showing also the inn which, according to the custom so convenient to late ar- rivals, was usually to be found outside the gate of a town. A MAIN ROAD IN ALSACE 284 Showing ruts and loose stones. From Munster's "Cos- mographia" (1550; p. 455)- Illustrations Xlll A SlGN-PoST 294 From the 1570 edition of Barclay's translation of " Brandt's Ship of Fools." " The hande whiche men unto a crosse do nayle Shewyth the way ofte to a man tvandrynge Which by the same his right way can not fayle." BENIGHTED 4 SIGHT '-SEERS 312 From Josse de Damhouder's "Praxis Rerum Crimi- nalium," 1554. A PASSENGER-BOAT FROM PADUA 328 " " from ike Stammbuch (.1578-83) of Gregory Amman in the Landesbibliothek, Cassel. RABELAIS RECEIVES SOME MONEY 342 Rabelais' receipt for money received by him against a bill of exchange such as travellers used. Photographed (with M. Heulhard's transcription) from the latter 's "Rabelais, ses Voyages, et son Exil." LITHGOW IN TROUBLE 348 From the 1632 edition of his "Rare Adventures." TRAVELLERS ATTACKED BY ROBBERS 354 " No. 7 of Jacques Callot's Miseres de la Guerre"; a photograph of the British Museum copy of the second impression (.1633). The second state has been chosen in preference to the first, as including the verses of the Abbe de Marolles, himself a traveller; the clearness of the etching not having suffered in the second impression. " WOLVES" 356 Another wood-cut from Derricke's "Image of Irelande" or rather, part of one, the size of the original. It repre- sents Derricke's best wishes for Rory Oge, the 'rebel? but is none the less applicable generally. XIV Illustrations A SOUVENIR 360 A letter which was on the way between Venice and Lon- don in October, 1606, when the bearer was attacked by robbers in Lorraine, showing the tears and damp-stains it received in consequence. The letter is from Sir Henry Wotton, then ambassador in Venice; it was picked up and forwarded to Henry IF of France, who sent it on to London. It is now in the Public Records Office, No. 74. in Bundle 3 of the State Papers, Foreign (Venetian). The bearer, Rowland Woodward, was paid 60 on Feb. 2, 1608, as compensation and for doctor's expenses, but had not fully recovered from his injuries by 1625. (Cf. L. P. Smith's "Life and Letters of Sir Henry Wotton," i, 325-8, 365 note, and ii. 481.) A SCHOLAR TRAVELLER 390 Francois de Maulde (1556-97); portrait by J. Sadeler (Bibl. Royale de Belgique). He was only about thirty when this portrait was done, but his sufferings as a trav- eller (see Bibliography) would alone accountfor his weary look. The inscription belonging to it runs: " Tristia sive secunda fluant, in utrumque parato Dulce mihi in libris vioere, dulce mori est" , TOURING IN I6OO " Che Dio voglia che V. S. abbia pazienza di leggerla tutta." " Pietro della Valle, // Pellegrino." TOURING IN l6oo CHAPTER I SOME OF THE TOURISTS But thus you see we maintain a trade, not for gold, silver, nor jewels; nor for silks; nor for spices; nor any other commod- ity of matter; but only for God's first creature, which was Light; to have Light (I say), of the growth of all parts of the world .
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