PENNEY’S SHEDS ECKERD/2 THE CRUNCH ON SALES CLERKS/2 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • April 6, 2004 • $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles This Magic Moment NEW YORK — Fairy tales can come true — and it doesn’t depend on Prince Charming. Consider this golden confection in sequined silk tulle from Oscar de la Renta, worn with a Lara Bohinc 107 bracelet, photographed at Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s new restaurant, Spice Market. For more, see pages 4 and 5. Y DAVID YASSKY; STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN AND BROOKE MAGNAGHI STYLED BY YASSKY; Y DAVID AH MARTIN AGENCY; PRODUCTION B AGENCY; AH MARTIN TS/DEBOR S AT JUMP; HAIR BY DANNY RICKET JUMP; HAIR BY S AT A/NEXT; MAKEUP BY MIZU FOR BOBBI BROWN COSMETIC MAKEUP BY A/NEXT; PHOTO BY DAVID TURNER; MODEL: ANNA OSCEOL DAVID PHOTO BY 2 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 6, 2004 WWDTUESDAY Penney’s Jettisons Eckerd Ready-to-Wear/Textiles GENERAL By Ross Tucker FASHION: Being moody can be a good thing, especially when it comes to NEW YORK — The J.C. Penney 4 the glamorous mix of drama and elegance. Co. Inc. has finally cut loose the Almost a third of working Americans living in poverty hold retail jobs, which Eckerd albatross. 2 is an indicator of the poor state of this employment sector. Here’s a report. On Monday, the Plano, Tex.- based department store retailer J.C. Penney has finally sold its troubled Eckerd drugstore unit to Canadian said it had reached agreements 2 pharmacy specialist Jean Coutu Group and CVS Corp. for $4.53 billion. with Canadian pharmacy spe- A World Trade Organization report showed China’s imports last year grew cialist The Jean Coutu Group 13 at a faster pace than its exports. Inc. and CVS Corp. to sell its be- leaguered Eckerd drugstore op- READY-TO-WEAR: Two pioneering African-American models talk about life erations for $4.53 billion in cash. 6 during and after their runway careers. For Jean Coutu, the deal TEXTILES: The recent Interstoff Asia show featured a push by the Association makes for a dramatic expansion of Southeast Asian Nations, which hopes to establish itself as a trading block. of its U.S. presence, a desire the 10 company made known in Decem- Joel Horowitz, Tommy Hilfiger Corp.’s executive chairman, will stay in that ber 2003 when it said it was in- 11 role for at least another year. terested in acquiring Eckerd. For Woonsocket, R.I.-based the company, CVS will now be EYE: British rapper Mike Skinner wants it known that he is not a crook; Under terms of the deal, Coutu CVS, the deal makes the compa- able to fill approximately 13 per- Brazilian Olympic equestrian Rodrigo Pessoa on saddles and speed. picked up 1,539 Eckerd drug- ny the new king of the mountain. cent of the nation’s prescriptions. 16 stores and support facilities in 13 CVS will acquire 1,260 Eckerd Allen Questrom, Penney’s Classified Advertisements...... 15 Northeast and mid-Atlantic states stores (located primarily in the chairman and chief executive of- as well as Eckerd’s Florida head- southern U.S.), Eckerd’s $1 bil- ficer, said in a statement that the To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is quarters, for $2.38 billion. Accord- lion mail order and pharmacy “sale will allow J.C. Penney to [email protected], using the individual's name. ing to Coutu, once the agreement benefits management business focus entirely on our core de- WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 is completed, the company will and three distribution centers for partment store and catalogue- FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 187, NO. 71. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional become the fourth-largest drug- a total price tag of $2.15 billion. Internet business.” Questrom issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three store chain in North America, All told, the company will op- went on to say that the compa- additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 with 2,196 stores. Currently, the erate more than 5,000 stores in 36 ny’s board of directors intends to West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, company’s U.S. presence is rele- states with combined revenues of use the anticipated $3.5 billion Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior gated to its 330-store Brooks $33 billion, making it the largest aftertax cash proceeds from the Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- nameplate, located in seven pharmacy retailer in America. sale “for an appropriate mix of President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. 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Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Cost Cuts Crunch Sales Clerks magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. By Sharon Edelson For clothing stores, the hourly Center for Justice that calculated WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED mean wage was $8.45, with an an- if Wal-Mart raised the wages of MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND NEW YORK — It’s been a cruel nual mean wage of $17,570. all U.S. workers by $2 an hour TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED season for sales associates. In February 2004, the U.S. De- the impact on its prices would be TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE In addition to low salaries, de- partment of Health and Human about 1 cent for every dollar,” ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. partment stores and mass mer- Services defined poverty level as she said. chants have been slashing bene- $18,850 for a family of four. Wal-Mart pays a price for fits and employee-based pro- Low pay and long hours have turnover, said Martels, who esti- grams in the face of rising health made it difficult for employees to mated the cost per employee, In Brief insurance costs and an intensely remain loyal to any retailer. Wal- which includes interviewing, competitive retail environment. Mart said its turnover rate is less training, orientation, advertising According to a study by Colum- than 50 percent, however experts and marketing at $1,950. He esti- ● GERMAN DEBUT: Chloé is saying Guten Tag to Germany. The bia University’s Institute on Edu- such as Fred Martels, a consumer mated the total direct cost of Paris-based fashion house said Monday it would open a 750- cation and the Economy, the and employee loyalty expert and turnover to the company at $1.4 square-foot boutique in Munich at 22 Maximilianstrasse at the plight of this group is dismal: president of People Solution billion a year. Martels said em- end of June. The boutique, Chloé’s first in Germany, will carry Almost one-third of working Strategies in St. Louis, put it clos- ployee loyalty and customer loy- ready-to-wear and accessories, with an emphasis on handbags Americans now living in poverty er to 55 percent. alty go hand in hand. and shoes. The decor, under the direction of designer Phoebe hold retail jobs. Annette Bernhardt, Ph.D., a Loyalty has suffered through- Philo, will be modeled after the London flagship that bowed last The hourly mean wage for de- sociologist and labor economist out the industry. At Sears, for ex- year on Sloane Street. Chloé operates eight retail locations world- partment store sales associates in focused on low wage work at the ample, the average worker in 1990 wide. Besides London, others are in Paris, New York, Monaco, 2002 was $8.79, according to the Brennan Center for Justice at had a tenure of 20 years. That Hong Kong, Taipei, Seoul and Dubai. U.S. Department of Labor. The New York University School of number fell to 10 years by 2002. annual mean wage was $18,280. Law, said, “We did a study at the Continued on page 12 ● VANDEVELDE’S M&S: One M&S apparently is not enough for Marks & Spencer chairman Luc Vandevelde. He wants two. Vandevelde is part of a group in talks to buy a Dutch women’s ap- parel retailer, also called M&S. The Dutch chain, which recently changed its name from M&S Mode to M&S, is part of VendexKBB, a Dutch retail group. Last week, VendexKBB said it is in exclusive talks with a private equity consortium led by Kohlberg Kravis Roberts. Change Capital Partners, the private equity firm chaired by Vandevelde, is a minority investor in that consortium.
● GOOD RELATIONS: Limited Brands was a big winner at the TIGER BUTTON CO., INC. IR Magazine U.S. Awards 2004, sponsored by IR magazine and TIGER TRIMMING, INC. Barron’s on Wednesday. In the mid-to-large cap category, 307 West 38th Street New York, NY 10018 Limited won best senior management communications, best in- vestor relations Web site, best investor relations officers (Tom (212)594-0570 800-223-2754 FAX (212)695-0265 Katzenmeyer and Amie Preston) and the “grand prix” for best email: [email protected] www.TIGERBUTTON.com overall investor relations.
● WARNACO TAPS TURPIN: Warnaco Group on Monday named former Limited executive Cheryl N. Turpin to its board, increas- B ANK-M ILLER C O., I NC. ing membership to seven. Turpin last served as president of We are the largest supplier of yarn dyed fabrics Limited Stores. During her time at the retailer, she also was 55 West 39th Street . New York NY 10018 president and chief executive of its Lane Bryant chain.
● PERRY ELLIS WATCHES: Perry Ellis International said Monday Flannels it entered a licensing agreement with SII Marketing Inter- I N-S TOCK national, a division of Seiko Instruments USA Inc., to make and distribute men’s and women’s fashion watches. Perry Ellis Chronology will be sold under the Perry Ellis, Perry Ellis Yarn Dyed Plaids . Tartans Portfolio and Perry Ellis America brands and will bow for the hol- idays. The line will be launched during the August accessories Contact: Larry Kaplan or Bryan Lint market, targeting department and jewelry stores. SII Marketing 212 . 869 . 3916 Fax 212 . 921 . 4614 also holds such licenses as Issey Miyake, Alessi and Disney. WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 6, 2004 3 Fashion Scoops WEST FRONTIER: As if The Roc’s chief executive officer, Damon Dash, isn’t busy enough with movies, music and his fashion companies, he said he is launching a clothing line for Roc-A-Fella Records artist Kanye West. “We are working on it now,” Dash said from the set of his film, “State Property II.” “It will be men’s to start with and we will take it from there.” West’s debut album, “The College Dropout,” has been sitting on top of Billboard’s Top 20 R&B/Hip- Hop chart since its launch seven weeks ago.
PHOEBE’S N.Y. DEBUT: No designer worth his or her salt seems to be working these days without a film in the works. The latest is Chloé’s Phoebe Philo, who will host her first big New York soiree on Wednesday at Bergdorf Goodman with a four-minute video feature playing on monitors around the store. The clip, directed by her friend Blue Farrier, shows Philo at work on the Chloé collection, as well as tromping with the dogs, riding a horse and climbing a tree on her farm outside London. Philo-philes such as Sally Albermarle, Angela Lindvall, Jessica Craig Martin, Connie Nielsen, Jeanne Greenberg Rohatyn, Amy Sacco, Jacqueline Sackler and Yvonne Force-Villareal are expected to turn out for the debut, which will be followed by a two-day trunk show. Clockwise from above: A sofa at Margiela; Margiela’s overall store; OFF THE WALL: Roman ruins, young artists and an open- Williamson’s exterior, and the air gallery. No, it’s not some quirky tour, but rather chair wall at Margiela. Diesel’s latest creative initiative to promote emerging talent. As part of its Diesel Wall project, the Italian denim company has erected a 3,875-square-foot wall next to Milan’s only Roman remnants, The Columns of San Lorenzo, and has put out a worldwide mandate to cover it. Diesel Wall’s five-person jury, which includes the New Stores for Margiela, Williamson brand’s creative director, Wilbert Das, and Hans Ulrich Obrist, curator of Paris’ Musée d’Art Moderne, will select three winners from the hundreds of submissions. Those winners will each have their pieces displayed on the wall for three months. Who says a gallery needs four walls? Take a Personal Approach to Design By Samantha Conti LONDON — Matthew Williamson and Martin Margiela have taken over two Nautica Searching Mayfair art galleries for their first London stores, and their homegrown approach to interior design couldn’t be farther away from the polished, megabrand looks so popular on nearby Bond Street. For New President Williamson lifted furniture and objects from his own home to decorate his first stand-alone store, which is a riot of eye-popping color and swirly, garden-inspired NEW YORK — Nautica’s looking for a first mate. patterns. The store, which spans 2,200 square feet, opened on Bruton Street late The brand, a part of VF Corp. since its last month. acquisition in August for $600 million, has put The wooden Indian armoire that now holds Williamson’s rainbow of colored can- out a search for a president who could eventu- dles once contained his cutlery and glassware at home. The stone Buddha that sits ally ascend to the helm. inside the glass-enclosed, subtropical garden came from his own backyard. In a The new post would report to founder David nearby dressing room, a wooden armchair is one of Williamson’s finds from Chu, who is currently chief executive officer of London’s Camden Market. The designer later painted it fluorescent pink and cov- the Nautica-branded business. Harvey Sanders, ered it with a carpet of purple fabric flowers. who had been chairman, president and ceo of the “It was important that this store look like my environment. I love interiors and I company, left after the acquisition. didn’t want this store to be someone else’s fantasy,” said the designer during a walk- A VF spokeswoman said both internal and through of the store, formerly the Bruton Street Gallery. external candidates were being recruited for Williamson himself decorated the bathroom — and the “icon corridor” that leads the position and that Elaine A. Hughes of E.A. to it — with a collage of star portraits, including Marilyn Monroe, Drew Barrymore, Hughes & Co. had been retained to help with Michael Jackson and Susan Sarandon. He sourced the images from magazines and the search. archives, pasted them on the walls and gave it all a slick coat of varnish. The president would be responsible for the “My idea was to make this store like a treasure trove, where people don’t know day-to-day running of the business and could what’s around the corner,” he said. take over for Chu when his contract expires at Williamson took his own fluorescent pens to the handmade Chinese silk the end of next year, said the spokeswoman. wallpaper, giving the pattern of exotic birds fluorescent touches. He also fes- “We want to make sure that we identify the tooned the silk fabric with pins and brooches that he picked up from London right person to come in here and work with flea markets. David for the next couple of years so when we The look is clearly working. Sales projections for the first year are $1.1 million, are ready to make a transition, it’s as seamless or 600,000 pounds, and according to the company, sales in the first week reached Matthew as possible,” she noted. $108,000, or 59,000 pounds. All figures have been converted at current exchange. Williamsonilliamson Primarily a men’s brand, Nautica licensees Williamson is already planning to scout a second store location, this time in produce women’s swimwear, eyewear and New York. “I want to watch this store’s progress for 12 months, but I hope to watches, and the company continues to make start looking soon for a space in New York,” he said. women’s sleepwear in-house. Around the corner from Williamson’s store on Bruton Place, Margiela takes a While there is surely potential for more similar homemade approach to the space that was most recently the Timothy Nautica-branded women’s product, there is Taylor Gallery, and which was formerly horse stables. The store, Margiela’s first currently no women’s sportswear made under U.K. unit, opened in late March and carries the designer’s men’s, women’s and the brand and there are plans to cease ship- accessories lines. ping women’s jeans in the U.S. after summer The 1,512-square-foot store resembles the designer’s Paris and Tokyo units with deliveries. its all-white interiors, unfinished edges, bits of secondhand furniture and fittings. Eric Wiseman, chairman of VF’s sports- “The store’s philosophy is about preserving the previous lives of objects, and liv- wear coalition, said in an interview last year ing with imperfections,” said Sandrine Reboux, store manager. that Nautica women’s sportswear would take The cash desk is made from two French supermarket tills, the wooden doors some time to put together and would bow, at upstairs are from old French apartments and hotels and makeshift walls are fash- the earliest, in 2005. ioned from old luggage or plastic milk cartons. The pockmarked walls still bear “We are going to be very deliberate,” said the pencil marks of architects and painters who have worked in the space. “It’s all Wiseman of the firm’s approach to women’s part of the story of the building,” said Reboux. sportswear. “Without question, we see that as Downstairs, in a makeshift cinema where videos of Margiela shows will be an opportunity.” projected, old wooden chairs that have been painted white hang on black walls, VF’s income from continuing operations for the and can be pulled down anytime to accommodate visitors. fourth quarter ended Jan. 3 rose 50.2 percent to Margiela declined to give a sales projection for the store. $105.6 million, or 96 cents a diluted share. Its On the ground floor, in a small room near the entrance, is Margiela’s graffiti overall sales increased 5.8 percent to $1.39 billion. room where visitors can scribble their thoughts on the walls. Clearly, Margiela’s During the three months, Nautica contributed $177 mind is in a positive place. A plastic box near the cash register is crammed with Williamson’slliamson’s million in sales and 11 cents a share in earnings. champagne corks, decorated with a bit of the designer’s signature white cotton armoire.
— Evan Clark fabric — a gift to customers. PHOTOS BY TIM JENKINS 4 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 6, 2004
Lela Rose’s beaded silk chiffon gown. Erickson Beamon necklace, worn on arm.
Some Enchanted Evening NEW YORK — Being moody can be a good thing, especially when it comes to the glamorous mix of drama and elegance. WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 6, 2004 5
▲ Beauty’s answer to heavy metal? Bronze and gold eye shadows, as seen on fall’s runways. Teamed with a pale, glossy mouth, the look lets the clothes provide the drama. ING; STYLED BY BROOKE MAGNAGHI AND BOBBI QUEEN ING; STYLED BY
Bradley Bayou’s beaded and sequined silk slipgown for Halston. Lara Bohinc 107 ring at Denise Williamson. OWN COSMETICS AT JUMP; HAIR BY DANNY RICKETTS/DEBORAH MARTIN AGENCY; PRODUCTION BY DAVID YASSKY; FASHION ASSISTANT: NICOLE KEAT ASSISTANT: FASHION YASSKY; DAVID PRODUCTION BY AGENCY; DANNY RICKETTS/DEBORAH MARTIN JUMP; HAIR BY OWN COSMETICS AT
Reem Acra’s sequined silk tulle column. Jimmy Choo shoes. PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID TURNER AT JEAN-GEORGES VONGERICHTEN’S SPICE MARKET; MODEL: ANNA OSCEOLA/NEXT; MAKEUP BY MIZU FOR BOBBI BR MAKEUP BY MODEL: ANNA OSCEOLA/NEXT; JEAN-GEORGES VONGERICHTEN’S SPICE MARKET; TURNER AT DAVID BY PHOTOGRAPHED 6 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 6, 2004
Ready-to-Wear Report Blazing the Way One Runway Turn at a Time With little fanfare, Dorothea Towles and Norma Jean Darden helped pave the way for the likes of Alex Wek and Naomi Campbell. Last fall, Towles and Darden picked up pioneer awards at the Harlem In Vogue fashion show for being among the first African-American models. Decades have passed since their breakthroughs, but they remember the era fondly. By Rosemary Feitelberg
Ferrier Modeling School, she “was the only girl of color there.” Elsa Schiaparelli advised her models to treat the well-heeled “I grew up in segregation in Texas,” she reflected. “In with disregard, because “they didn’t want to be fawned over,” DOROTHEA TOWLES California, I thought, ‘This is the land of milk and honey. I should Towles said. Once when modeling one of Schiaparelli’s more NEW YORK — Unlike most models, Dorothea Towles, the first be able to do anything I want to do.’” toned-down suits, Towles heard the Duchess of Windsor tell a woman of color to model for the major European fashion hous- Towles decided early on to frequent Hollywood’s Sunset Strip, friend, “You see that suit? I’ll buy it because five years from es, never gave her own beauty much thought. popular with movie stars, even though her African- Americans today, I’ll still be able to wear it.” “I used to take the attitude that, ‘This isn’t about me. I just friends would not go there. “I went with an open mind and In the Fifties, Towles returned to the U.S., but by boat “with represent all the girls like me.’” Towles said Friday afternoon, expected to be accepted. If you dressed the right way and looked a load of clothes.” Couture? Of course. during an interview in her Upper West Side apartment. the part, no one bothered you.” Stateside, she couldn’t make any headway with magazines or From a small modeling class in Los Angeles in the late Forties In 1949, she accompanied her sister Lois, a Fisk University photographers including Richard Avedon, whose assistant, Hiro, to the gilded salons of Paris, her 20-year career was instrumental professor who was pursuing a career as a concert pianist, to Paris. turned her away. “When I came back, I figured the world was my in advancing African-American models. The ateliers of Christian Towles insisted she wasn’t running from racism, but wanted to go oyster. But when I said I was a model, people looked at me like Dior, Pierre Balmain and Elsa Schiaparelli were a long way from “to the heart of fashion to learn as much as she could.” Her sister I had two heads. Unless I had the photos to prove it, they never Texarkana, Texas, where she grew up with seven siblings. arranged to get Towles a $300 student ticket allowing for a two- would have believed me,” Towles said. “Paris was the complete opposite of month stay. A far cry from Racial boundaries started to fall in the Sixties, “with people Texas. They treated you like a queen. today’s supermodels, Towles getting out in the streets about everything. That really opened The French in that period looked at you and her sister flew on a people’s eyes,” Towles said. “And the fashion world is creative internally with deep significance,” she makeshift cargo plane via and a little crazy.” said. “For once I was not considered Newfoundland. But, she These days, she likes Oscar de la Renta (because he worked black, African-American or a Negro. I recalled, “When I got there, at Balmain) and Carolina Herrera. But, referring to the latter, she was just an American. I didn’t have a I said, ‘There are too many said, “Who can go around looking elegant all the time?” Sean hard time in Paris. I had a ball.” opportunities. I’m not going John and Phat Farm earned her kudos for “expressing the view That’s an understatement, consider- back.’” of youth, which always sprinkles into other areas.” ing the shows in Algiers, in Baden Baden, So she sold the return She credits her parents with instilling in her a sense of hope- Germany, and other exotic locales. At leg of her ticket and settled fulness. Her father was a self-employed contractor with an Balmain’s suggestion, she dyed her hair in, beginning a three-year eighth-grade education, and her mother was a former teacher platinum and wound up causing regular odyssey. Paris-based design- who attended college for two years. “In a way, she said we were traffic tie-ups on the Champs Elysées. ers were trying to appeal to better than other people and now I understand that. To overcome Asked to pick her favorite designer, an international market, and segregation, she didn’t want us to feel inferior,” Towles said. Towles said, “Whoever I was with at the Towles worked with models Despite her role in breaking racial barriers and the popularity of moment. I wanted to move around and Towles in Balmain in from all over the globe Alex Wek, Naomi Campbell and Tyra Banks, Towles said further learn all different techniques.” the Fifties and today. including Finland, England change is needed. “I still think the white world might be afraid of A college graduate at 18, Towles THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY and Russia. Her figure, our beauty or they want someone who is more ethnic from other said, “Modeling opened up a whole new world to me — travel, which was short-waisted like French girls and long-legged like parts of the world. Look at that woman on ‘The View’ [Star Jones]. meeting new people, getting away from the mundane and away Americans, was a hit with European designers, she said. She’s a brilliant lady but she could lose some weight. But they feel from segregation. Growing up, I had to pass three white schools Christian Dior was the first to hire her. It was just after World safe with her. They don’t have a fat white lady on there.” to get to my black school.” War II. There, she learned “the Dior swirl,” standing to demon- At work on her memoir (with a working title of “I Did It With Shortly after her mother died in the late Forties, she accepted strate the one-step spin used to turn at the end of a runway. My Body,”) with the help of Barbara Summers, author of “Black a wealthy uncle’s invitation to visit him in Los Angeles. Towles bor- Unlike today, where models work in print and on the runway, and Beautiful,” Towles said, “Eventually, I felt like I was respon- rowed money from a relative for a train ticket and headed to Towles and her peers had to choose one or the other. “On the sible for breaking down barriers, but I had to show African- California for what wound up being a four-year stay. At the Dorothy runway, you need to be an actress without words,” she said. American girls that they could do it.”
‘You’re great. But we can’t use you, because people in the South will be offended.’” she said. Darden credits Branford Models, the first black agency founded in the Forties; Dorothea Towles, NORMA JEAN DARDEN the first woman of color to model for the major European houses (see story this page); Ophelia DeVore, NEW YORK — For someone who stepped away from modeling decades ago, Norma Jean Darden still one of the first black models in the U.S., who modeled in the Forties and later worked as an agent has a pretty firm grasp on fashion. and promoter, and Fifties model Helen Williams for helping to lay the groundwork. DeVore and Towles Having done her share to help shatter racial boundaries in modeling in the early Seventies, weren’t afraid to picket magazines that discriminated against African-American women. Darden relishes the success of Tracy Reese, Patrick Robinson, Stephen Burrows and Jeffrey Banks. Darden found more opportunities overseas. In addition to runway shows, she appeared in Italian “You don’t even hear about them being black designers, they are known as just wonderful design- Vogue and scores of other European magazines. ers,” Darden said. “Stephen comes to my restaurant, Miss Mamie’s Spoonbread Too, and I go to The fabled 1973 designer showdown at Versailles between five Americans and five Frenchmen all his shows. He doesn’t need my advice but I give it anyway.” was one of Darden’s career highlights. She recalls more than the Barry White music and Anne Burrows isn’t the only one keeping Darden up to speed. Jon Haggins and André Leon Talley also Klein, Oscar de la Renta, Bill Blass, Halston and Burrows drawing straws to determine the show’s drop by her two Spoonbread restaurants here, and her catering business of the same name has thrown order, before they faced off against Pierre Cardin, Hubert Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent, Emanuel parties for Diane von Furstenberg and other fashion insiders. Both businesses were Ungaro and Marc Bohan of Dior. Josephine Baker and an offshoot of Darden’s cookbook, “Spoonbread and Strawberry Wine,” which long- Liza Minnelli performed, “Heloise” author Kay time Yves Saint Laurent muse Loulou de la Falaise insisted Darden write. Thompson choreographed the event and Princess Grace “Modeling was fun and exciting, and then you move on,” Darden said dur- and Andy Warhol were among the guests. ing a telephone interview last month. “I have two restaurants and a catering “In what other profession would you meet all these company, so there is life after modeling.” people? It was a real American invasion,” Darden said. In her heyday in the Seventies, she modeled in Europe for seven years for There were a few flare-ups. “Halston was furious such designers as Karl Lagerfeld, Dorothy Biz and Emanuel Kahn. Darden said because he thought Oscar rigged the finale. Oscar’s first she was first drawn to modeling after seeing Dorothea Towles, Audrey Smaltz wife was French. Halston thought she knew the ins and and others model in the Abyssinian Baptist Church’s annual fashion show for outs of the French side, so she got preferential treat- the NAACP, an event her father, Walter, organized. ment,” Darden said. “I thought they were the most fabulous creatures running down the runway, In the late Seventies, de la Falaise steered Darden showing off bikinis and evening gowns. But my mother said, ‘Well, you’re going into the food business when she inquired about her eth- to college. You’ll never get to do this.’” nic background at a party. When de la Falaise learned So off Darden went to Sarah Lawrence, where she studied acting and liter- Darden had Cherokee, Scottish and African-American ature. She later studied acting under Lee Strasberg. After graduation, Darden Darden as a model in ancestry she suggested the model had family recipes appeared in Gore Vidal’s play “Weekend,” as well as with the Cornbread Players the Seventies and as a that were the makings of a cookbook. De la Falaise at the Public Theater. But at nearly 5 feet 10 inches, she towered over cast restaurateur. refused to back down, even when Darden explained she PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTO BY members and pursued modeling at Black Beauty, a new agency devoted to didn’t give food much thought, since she was trying to African-American models, before moving on to the Wilhelmina agency. stay thin. De la Falaise persevered. Most of the discrimination she faced was due to her profession, not her skin color, she said. “The next day she got me an editor and I didn’t have a page,” Darden laughed. “There was always the stigma that models were not too bright. If you played into it, you got some- She and her sister and co-author, Carole Darden, began visiting old family friends and digging where, but if you acted too bright, people were threatened,” she said. “It was better to let people up forgotten recipes. Peppered with family photographs and remembrances, “Spoonbread and think that you weren’t too bright. Of course, I never let people know I went to college. Strawberry Wine” sold 40,000 copies when it was published in 1978. Darden said she has always “The biggest challenge at that time was there weren’t many black people in fashion in the been impressed with how polished her ancestors looked. “They all looked so swell. They didn’t Seventies. Then Willy [Smith], Scott Barry, Stephen and Jon came forward. They had the spotlight have much in the way of possessions. You can see the dignity and honor they had in being free in and they were kind enough to shine it on us,” Darden said. the South and kind of being looked down upon. Their shoes were shined, their clothes were pressed Darden, Barbara Smith, Pat Cleveland and others “were kind of breakthrough models.” They and they always put their best selves forward.” banded together even though they worked mainly in Ebony and Essence, since Vogue and Harper’s As for how people dress today, Darden is a bit torn. “I love the fact that everyone is so demo- Bazaar were not yet using African-American models, she said. cratic. You can go to the theater in jeans and you never know who is rich or struggling. But I also “We were persistent. We made the rounds and we didn’t take it personally. People said to us, hate the fact people are so casual.” WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 6, 2004 7
Te xtile & Trade Report money tomorrow, in a year you will see a pilot-scale plant.” Less interested in profits than the process, Yang said he Husky Approach to New Fiber would approach investors when time permitted. By Evan Clark Still, the opportunities for fabrics derived from husks seem significant. The U.S. produces about 20 million tons of corn husks annu- Color, Prints Star NEW YORK — Fields of corn lend themselves more to thoughts of ally, which could be made into 2 million tons of fiber, said Yang. It summertime suppers and crop circles than fashion statements. takes about three pounds of husks to produce the average T shirt. Someday that might change, though, as a method has been “We have shrinking cultivated land in this world and this is developed to produce a fiber similar to linen out ideal,” said Yang. At Ideacomo Show of corn husks. Fiber from husks could be an environmental The process, which employs simple chemicals windfall, he said, since the corn is already grown for and enzymes to isolate the useful cellulose fibers in food purposes. The fiber could stand in for cotton in the husks, was developed by Yiqi Yang, a professor some instances, reducing the need to devote as of textiles, clothing and design at the University of much land to cotton. Also, the fiber could replace Nebraska’s College of Engineering & Technology. some petroleum-based fibers, such as polyester. Fibers in the corn’s husk — not the silk familiar to LAB Should corn husk fabrics take off, Yang noted, anyone who’s shucked an ear — are spun into yarn. they would not only make use of a renewable and Yang said the fabric made from corn-husk yarn CHECK currently neglected resource, but would also create has properties somewhere between those of cotton jobs in farm states. and linen and can be used to do the job of common linen. Last year, Minnetonka, Minn.-based Cargill Dow LLC unveiled its Already Yang has produced a sweatshirt using his method. new corn-based fiber Ingeo. The fiber has comparable performance Etro showed these “We’re waiting for investors so that we can move forward characteristics to synthetic fibers. Other synthetic-fiber makers, vivid printed silks. and build the pilot,” he said in a phone interview. “If I have the including DuPont, have also experimented with corn-based fibers. PHOTO BY DAVIDE MAESTRI DAVIDE PHOTO BY
CERNOBBIO, Italy — Vibrant colors and Seventies-style geo- metric patterns dominated the booths at last week’s Ideacomo GO•UP trade fair here. Florals, stripes and ethnic prints were second- ary themes for the region’s silk mills, 50 of which showed their spring 2005 wares at a three-day fair that closed March 26 at the Villa Erba exhibition center. “We are offering stripes, geo- metrics, and, of course, florals as well,” said Claudio Allegri, sales manager for Pentagono Seta. “Our colors are strong, and our main color themes were devel- oped around a base of pink and green, from very pale pink to deep geranium and lime green to dark leaf green.” More stripes were seen at Girani, one of the smallest silk producers in the Como silk dis- trict. With a staff of 20, the com- pany focuses on creating quality fabrics with an exceptional hand. Sales manager Maurizio Larghi explained that solid-color silks are the backbone of his business. The stripes and floral designs that were on display rep- I demand. resented only a small percentage of the company’s production. Another company that spe- cializes in solid-color silks is Tiaré. Owner Maria Letizia Fanti said the company focuses on high-end finishing techniques. “It is not unusual to find three or four different finishes on the same fabric,” said Fanti. At Etro, a company that spe- cializes in designs, the spotlight was on ethnic prints. Nadia Pina, area sales manager for the textile division, said samples for spring-summer 2005 lean toward Indian-style print. “Our looks are a little more so- phisticated this season, and in- stead of cotton, we have chosen to use diaphanous silk georgette and silk muslin,” she said. “Most of the fabrics we have created for next summer season are a hybrid be- tween transparency and opacity.” Medium-weight silks, with large floral patterns created specifically for the high-end acces- sory scarf market, were featured at Clerici Tessuto & C., said sales manager Roberto Mantegazza. Serikos offered an eclectic and I make a value choice. diverse collection. Fabrics were I prefer garments made using primarily cotton and cotton-and- fabrics and yarns labelled silk blends, often with a small per- "BIELLA The Art of Excellence." centage of stretch fibers. Ideacomo president Beppe The mark of excellence which embodies the best Pisani said he was looking for of style combined with attentiveness to health and wellbeing. www.biellatheartofexcellence.com ways the region’s industry could Chosen by: Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna & Figli - Botto Giuseppe & Figli - Tonella - Tintoria Finissaggio 2000 - Lanificio Fratelli Cerruti join forces with producers abroad. Ing. Loro Piana & C. - Fratelli Piacenza - Vitale Barberis Canonico - Lanificio Fratelli Garlanda - Filatura Marchi Giovanni “We should try to establish Pettinatura Italiana - Tintoria di Trivero - Filatura di Trivero - Filatura di Pollone - Lanificio di Lessona - Botto Poala - Italfil relationships with the high-qual- Lanificio Luigi Botto - Filatura di Crosa - Gartex - Lanificio Tessilstrona - Lanificio Fratelli Fila - Biella Vertical Textile - Quality Biella. ity clothing producers in Russia and China,” he said. — Phyllis Macchioni 8 WWD, TUESDAY APRIL 6, 2004 BeyondTe xtiles & Trade
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ints NG s & Pr RI Solid estern TU duroy es•W EA • Cor ovelti F Denim ans•N Prints OW een • awaii ids & O! N n Sat ls•H m Sol S TO Cotto •Flora Deni INEN plin • picals elets • nts • L H:Po s•Tro s • Ey & Pri RETC Look Voile Solids ST tage Dyes • nnel S: Vin Yarn y • Fla RINT ONS: rduro P COTT d • Co CUSTOM DESIGN • PRINTING • DYEING eache nvas P INTERNATIONAL SALES AND SHIPPING Ca NEW YORK SHOWROOM: TEXTILE ARTS MARKETING • 40 WEST 37TH STREET #802 • PHONE: 212-868-9040 LOS ANGELES HEADQUARTERS & SHOWROOM: 129 WEST 132 STREET • PHONE: 800-877-2066 • FAX: 800-788-5283 Absolutely Terry Company Inc. New York Is proud to announce they are the exclusive manufacturer for Paris Star Knitting Mills Inc. Montreal Please contact us with your requirements 212-719-4830 Fax 212-730-6080 PHOTOS DANIELA GILBERT DOMINIQUE MAITRE; STYLED BY BY WWD, TUESDAY APRIL 6, 2004 9
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Te x tiles & Trade Interstoff Talk: Fending Off China By Constance Haisma-Kwok TRENDCAST: INTERSTOFF ASIA HONG KONG — While many eyes in the industry are firmly focused on China’s HONG KONG — Exhibitors at last month’s Interstoff Asia show here offered a variety of fabrics impressive prospects for growth after quotas are lifted in 2005, the most recent that highlighted several key trends for spring 2005. Among them: edition of Interstoff Asia featured a push ■ From pinstriped suit fabrics to bold bands on stretch knits, stripes were key. by manufacturers from the Association of ■ The girly candy color trend from cosmetics has made its way into the textile trade, with fabrics Southeast Asian Nations. sporting a Barbie-inspired palette of orange, pink, blue and yellow with hints of lilac and lavender. The ASEAN group merged their ■ Texture cropped up as an important accent in slub weaves, fake furs and even rattan yarn Source It trade show — which was in its woven into silk. second edition after debuting last year in ■ Manila — into the Interstoff event. Lace, which is always key at Asian fabric shows, appeared in darker, heavier variants that “Spurred by 2005, we are supporting echoed Chinese cloisonné and was edged in gold or black. ways to enhance cooperation between ■ Rich, exotic-looking silks, including brocades and some animal prints, as well as fabrics with members,” said Michael Que, chairman of metallic touches, were popular. the ASEAN Federation of Textiles, which ■ Floral prints took a decidedly Asian bent, with water-colored chrysanthemums and peonies coorganized Source It. “We hope to estab- playing a role. lish ASEAN as a trading block. Source It ■ Earth tones were a secondary important trend, mostly natural tones, including camel, sand, will be AFTEX’s show of choice. Hong Kong was chosen for its proximity to cream, olive and teal. China. This is where the buyers are.” ■ In denim, buyers went for crosshatch patterns, long slubs and metallic thread. The 10 ASEAN nations are Brunei — C.H.K. PHOTO BY GARETH JONES PHOTO BY Darussalam, Cambodia, Indonesia, Laos, Shopping fabric at Interstoff Asia. Malaysia, Myanmar, the Philippines, Singapore, Thailand and Vietnam. had been at in 2002 — before last spring’s Asian nations need to take advantage of matter what,” Gewali said. “It was China While Interstoff Asia’s exhibitors con- SARS outbreak crimped last year’s show. their location and of each other. He said he that raised cotton prices. They started it tinued to show a range of textiles for the “ASEAN’s members have competing in- sees the EU as a model for Asia’s future. and the effect was global. It will be like spring 2005 retail season, especially terests, but we try to seed commonality and “There is a great chance to not make the this from now on.” high-performance fabrics, cottons and strategize,” said Que. “Source It is able to same mistakes that were made in Europe. Still, Gewali saw some potential for silks, Source It encompassed everything work for countries that are at very differ- Working together in globalization does not other countries: “Bangladesh will sur- from fibers and yarns to finished gar- ent stages of integration in the industry.” mean that you work against ‘regionalization.’ vive…It has some advantages. There are ments, albeit on a smaller scale. The talk of the show, which ended Your neighbor is your best trading partner.” buyers who want product made there.” With the addition of Source It, the total March 25, was whether ASEAN’s plan to But access to the U.S. market remains a Se Lee, part of the Asia Sales Team for exhibitor base for the events grew to more form an economic block that could com- goal for many, and securing free-trade agree- South Korean fiber maker Hyosung Corp., than 400 companies from 21 countries, pete with China post-2005 would work. ments with Washington — as Singapore has said his company keeps expanding “just to which attracted 10,203 buyers. That Michael von Zitzewitz, chairman of just done — is seen as paramount. meet customer demand.” Hyosung, which brought the attendance back to the level it Interstoff organizer Messe Frankfurt, said Edward Ang, the ASEAN Federation of produces such brands as Creora spandex Textiles’ delegate from Singapore, said and Mipan nylon and is the world’s fourth- free-trade agreements between Asian coun- largest supplier of nylon, expects China to tries and the U.S. might be easier to come be as much a consumer of fabrics as a Quota Watch: China Safeguards by if deals are not negotiated one-on-one. competitor in the making of them. “Maybe individual ASEAN countries “Some people worry about China,” com- etailers and importers are keeping a close eye on three apparel and textile import categories can have free trade with the U.S.A., but mented Se, “but the Korean industry has Rfrom China that are steadily filling. The U.S. imposed new quotas on imports of knit fabric, maybe cumulatively ASEAN will have merits, including technical know-how. In robes and dressing gowns and bras and other body-supporting garments last December under a more negotiating strength,” he suggested. this area, Taiwan is our biggest competitor.” “We can pool our resources, raw materials David Lee, manager of Taiwan’s Uan safeguard provision China agreed to when it entered the World Trade Organization. If the and human resources to form a block.” San Textile Co., is looking to innovation for categories embargo early, U.S. companies importing the products will have to scramble to divert William Gunther, associate director for future success. His company has patented a production to other countries. Here is a look at how usage is measuring up with allocation: Southeast Asia at Cotton Incorporated, technique for using recycled plastic bottles said, “Source It is a big boost. We can see in producing denim. (Soda bottles can be PRODUCT QUOTA LIMIT USAGE TO DATE PERCENTAGE USED that it won’t be all China after 2005. broken down into the same chemical raw There are others who are willing and materials used to produce polyester fiber.) Knit fabric 9.7 million kg 2.4 million kg 25.3 percent able to compete in quality and quantity. “Our products are high end,” said Lee. Bras and other body-supporting garments 16.8 million dozen 3.2 million dozen 19.1 percent They won’t roll over and play dead yet.” “We know our weakness compared to Dressing gowns and robes 4.1 million dozen 675,611 dozen 16.5 percent China’s domestic cotton prices have Chinese factories. There is no way we can risen sharply in the last year and the compete on price, so we make special de- NOTE: KG = KILOGRAMS country does not produce enough of the signs and we can be flexible in order size.” SOURCE: U.S. CUSTOMS & BORDER PROTECTION TEXTILE STATUS REPORT fiber to meet demand. As Gunther put it, Such amenability is exactly what ap- “China is wonderful for us. We want to en- peals to Sonjia Norman, creative director courage the consumption of cotton against of Chibi. The designer said she has suppli- AGUILAR’S ROAR: Cesar F. Aguilar joined Lion Brothers Co. as man-made fabrics no matter where it is.” ers from Japan, Taiwan and Hong Kong. executive vice president of sales and marketing last month, picking But not everyone was so happy. “I don’t need performance fabrics. SWATCHES up responsibility for the firm’s global sales, marketing and customer Anjali Gewali, senior merchandiser for Hand feel and quality are most important service operations. Aguilar, who comes to Lion after 24 years at Malden Mills where he was Hong Kong-based denim market Kavi — and cost is the million-dollar question,” most recently executive vice president of sales and marketing worldwide, reports to chief International, which has three sourcing of- said Norman, who attends Interstoff every executive officer Susan J. Ganz. Lion produces identification and decoration for brands such as fices in China but produces its fabric in year. “I am always looking to source new Nike, Adidas, Champion and Reebok. Bangladesh, said ASEAN’s hopes are futile. techniques, printing, studs, fabrics, any- “It won’t work. China is very strong, no thing. And I always find something.”
final preparation for ‘05 An official event of DESIGN SPECIAL EDITION MaterialWorld FROM DESIGN TO DELIVERY, THE PREMIER GLOBAL TRADE SHOW FOR THE SEWN PRODUCTS INDUSTRIES May 18-20, 2004 MaterialWorld is proud to be endorsed by: Miami Beach Convention Center, Miami Beach, Florida To exhibit or attend: Phone: 800.318.2238 or 678.285.3976 Fax: 678.285.7469 DELIVERY Email: [email protected] www.material-world.com WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 6, 2004 11
Crocodile filed in response to a suit Lacoste had TWINS ABROAD: Seiyu Ltd. said it will begin filed in March 2002. Lacoste says the real legal selling the Mary Kate and Ashley brand — Horowitz battle is still pending. But the court case has including sportswear, activewear, fashion ASIA WATCH fueled speculation that Lacoste may pull out of accessories, bags and cosmetics — in its 90 China altogether. — David Hall stores this summer in collaboration with its To Re main MOVING NORTH: Singapore’s Crocodile International licensor, Dualstar Entertainment Group of Los Pte. Ltd. plans to move its headquarters to GROWING SHOE SIZE: Organizers of the China Angeles. Seiyu, a major supermarket chain of Shanghai as it focuses on China’s ever-expanding International Footwear Fair have said they expect which Wal-Mart is now the largest shareholder, market, according to China’s state-run China Daily exhibition space at this year’s event to reach said it also is planning to add for sale here such At Hilfiger newspaper. Crocodile plans to invest about $12 35,000 square feet, a 50 percent increase over merchandise as bedding, sleepwear and dolls, as million in a new Crocodile building in Shanghai, last year. The show, which combines the fashion well as entertainment products such as videos, NEW YORK — Joel Horowitz, set to begin construction in June. fair Moda Shanghai with CIFF and the All China DVDs, books and CDs. Tommy Hilfiger Corp.’s execu- The newspaper said Crocodile also plans to Leather Exhibition, will take place in Shanghai Seiyu said it is confident the brand — which tive chairman, will stay in that increase its investment in factories in China, Sept. 1-3. Last year, the events attracted 700 has already been successful in the U.S., Canada, role for at least another year. where it says sales last year totaled $242 million. exhibiting companies and more than 12,000 Britain, Australia, New Zealand, Mexico, France, Hilfiger said Monday that Crocodile’s China plans follow its recent court visitors. Zhang Shuhua, vice president of the China Germany and Israel — is certain to see the same Horowitz will stay on as chair- victory over rival retailer Lacoste. The two Leather Industry Association, said she expects to success in Japan. It’s also likely to be launched in man through March 31, 2005. companies have been locked in legal battles for see “increased participation by manufacturers of other markets, such as South Korea, China, Brazil, Horowitz has a new employment the past two years over their similar logos, both sports shoes and sneakers, in addition to leather Argentina, Spain and Italy. Mary Kate and Ashley agreement, which replaces the of which use a crocodile. Lacoste’s faces right, shoes, which took a leading position in the past.” already are widely known among Japanese one that expired on March 31. while Crocodile’s faces left. A Shanghai court In 2003, China exported shoes valued at $12.5 children and teenagers through exposure on He served as president and ordered Lacoste to pay $1 and apologize to billion, making it the world’s largest exporter of Japanese television programs for two and a half chief executive through August Crocodile for copyright infringement in a lawsuit footwear. — Constance Haisma-Kwok years. — Tsukasa Furukawa 2003, and has held the chair- manship since February 2003.
Joel Horowitz
Horowitz was succeeded as president and ceo by David Dyer. Dyer said in a statement that “during Joel’s tenure as presi- dent and ceo, Tommy Hilfiger grew to become one of the world’s most successful lifestyle brands. We are fortunate to con- tinue to have the benefit of his expertise and experience as we lead the company forward.” Horowitz said he looks “for- ward to continuing to work with the board, Tommy [Hilfiger] per- sonally, and our talented manage- ment team, led by David Dyer, to position the company for its next stage of growth. In recent quarters, the company has made good progress in refocusing its strate- gies and rebuilding its fashion leadership, and we are enthusias- tic about the opportunities ahead.” In fiscal 2003, Horowitz had a total compensation package of $8.3 million. The firm’s latest quarterly re- port, third-quarter earnings posted on Feb. 4, exceeded Wall Street’s expectations. For the three months ended Dec. 31, income was $23.6 million, or 26 cents a diluted share, against a loss of $22.1 million, or 24 cents, in the year-ago quarter. Revenues fell 5.6 percent to $450.6 million from $477.3 million. —Vicki M. Young MEMO PAD PLAY BALL: Condé Nast France, which launched a mini version of Glamour last month, has another title cooking. Come September, its custom publishing arm will introduce Sport & Style, a fashion- driven publication that will be distributed with the French sports daily L’Equipe, which has a circulation of 320,000. L’Equipe will be in charge of advertising. Condé Nast hopes to make the title biannual. — Miles Socha 12 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 6, 2004
From left: A Wal-Mart employee from the company’s Web site; Bloomingdale’s is negotiating with the union representing sales associates at its 59th Street flagship; Macy’s Herald Square hires scores of p The Plight of Sales Clerks: Hard
Continued from page 2 than our competition.” Dan Butler, a spokesman for the National Retail Federation, said that by 2010, The sale of Sears’ profitable credit unit in November was the driving force behind when there will be 500,000 more jobs than people to fill them, retailers will have to the cuts, he said. “As we look at our work force, we’re trying to work out a benefits pay more attention to retention. “There will be more competition among retailers for program that’s commensurate with our employees’ needs and with what our cus- sales associates,” he said. tomers are willing to pay.” For the time being however, stores are relying on lots part-time labor. Butler said The spokesman said 20 percent of Sears’ annual hourly associates will receive part-time salespeople have different needs and motivations for working. “Salary is one raises because their pay was found to be below the industry standard. He declined to indicator and not the only reason people work for the wages they work for,” he said, re- give the amount of the pay increase. ferring to job satisfaction. “A part-timer might have another job somewhere else.” Citing a 23.7 percent drop in December catalogue sales, J.C. Penney said it would For many though, issues of salary, health and retirement, are common concerns. cut 2,000 jobs from its catalogue business. The company has been slashing costs for The jobless economic recovery has taken a dent out of sales and many companies are two years, including closing stores. There have also been other more recent money- in cost-cutting mode. Disappearing stock programs, phased-out pension plans, lower saving initiatives. subsidies for medical coverage and reduced incentive bonuses are a few of the areas “We have scaled back our retiree health care plan,” said a J.C. Penney spokesman. being trimmed. “We’ve also had to make some changes in our benefits offerings to offset the dramatic Like other industries that heeded Wall Street’s call for lean operations, U.S. com- cost increases we’ve been seeing. We increased the threshold for eligibility in terms panies have been increasing productivity levels by 5 percent a year. In the future, of hours worked per week from 30 to 35 hours for full-time workers. workers won’t simply be pressed to do more in less time, they may be replaced by The Bureau of Labor Statistics reported that the price of employee health pro- technology that can do their jobs for less money. grams rose 6.3 percent in 2003, compared with the cost of wages, which increased Bernhardt, who focused on low wage work at the Brennan Center for Justice at only 2.9 percent. New York University School of Law, said the predicament of sales associates is partly The discontent is palpable. Members of Local 3 of the United Store Workers of due to the Wal-Mart model that dominates America, the union representing sales asso- the modern retail sector. ciates at Bloomingdale’s 59th Street flagship, Wal-Mart has put intense competitive Retail Wage Comparisons said they are being asked for concessions on pressure on most distribution channels with their next contract, which expired on March its formula of low-priced products and 1 with a 60-day extension. large-volume sales. The company keeps INDUSTRY EMPLOYMENT HOURLY MEAN ANNUAL MEAN “We’re mindful of having to take care of margins razor thin by keeping operations WAGE WAGE our employees while taking care of the bot- costs — including wages and employee ben- tom line,” said Bill Baer, senior vice presi- efits — down. Department Stores 658,410 $8.79 $18,280 dent of human resources and labor relations Supermarkets cited pressure from Wal- Clothing Stores 552,980 $8.45 $17,570 at Bloomingdale’s. “We’re negotiating in Mart as one of the main reasons for trying to good faith. We have a lot of work to do.” cut labor costs when workers at three large Building Supplies Dealers 322,870 $11.53 $23,970 There’s talk about a strike among the chains in Southern California went on strike Other General Merchandise Stores 268,350 $8.29 $17,250 rank and file. “They want us to work longer to protest cuts in wages and benefits. The shifts and pay more for health coverage,” strike was settled on Feb. 29. Automobile Dealers 266,160 $20.71 $43,070 said one member. In recent years much of the retail indus- Wal-Mart’s medical insurance is costly try has shifted from a service culture to one SOURCE: BUREAU OF LABOR STATISTICS relative to employee wages. Single workers emphasizing sourcing, distribution and mar- pay $15.25 per bi-weekly pay period, while keting, and getting products on the shelves families are charged at least $66.25 per pay and consumers out the doors as quickly as possible. Customers have been complicit period, a spokeswoman said. Premiums are $350 to $1,000. in the transformation due to their relentless quest for low prices. Things like eye care and well baby visits are not covered under the plan. “Medical Richard D. Hastings, vice president and retail sector analyst at Bernard Sands, coverage is designed to be an affordable plan with catastrophic coverage rather than said, “Joe Consumer doesn’t expect much. We all complain about service but nobody a richer plan that’s affordable only to a few of our associates,” the spokeswoman said. expects better.” The waiting period for eligibility is three to six months for full-timers and two The NRF’s Butler believes that morphing of business channels has heightened years for part-timers. competition and pressured stores to lower their cost of doing business. “Grocery According to Wal-Mart, more than 90 percent of the company’s workers have med- stores sell food and auto products and items for the home,” he said. “Before you had ical coverage, but a spokeswoman said Wal-Mart includes in its calculations workers clear lines of delineation.” covered under its plans, those covered under a spouse’s plan, students on a parent’s Target, long considered a benevolent employer — at least for executives — last plan and those in government programs. month eliminated paid vacations and health care coverage for all part-time employ- In Georgia, for example, 10,000 children with a parent in Wal-Mart’s employ in ees citing rising health care costs and a sluggish economy. A spokesman said the num- 2002 took part in PeachCare, a state program that provides benefits to children whose ber of part-time employees was not available. parents can’t afford or have no access to medical insurance. The next company on the Recently, Sears, Roebuck & Co. eliminated stock-option grants to most of its 17,000 list was Publix, which employed the parents of 734 uninsured youngsters. Wal-Mart is salaried employees and ended guaranteed pension benefits and company-subsidized the largest employer in the state. retiree medical insurance to all new hires and employees younger than 40 as of Jan. “At Wal-Mart, full-time means a work schedule of 28 hours a week at just over mini- 1, 2005. mum wage,” claimed Bernhardt. “There aren’t many opportunities for advancement. “Almost all the changes we’re making will position us with the competition,” a The standard Wal-Mart store has one manager, four assistant managers and 235 non- Sears spokesman said. “We have a lot of medical benefits that are more generous salaried workers. WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 6, 2004 13 WTO Predicts 7.5% Growth By John Zarocostas GENEVA — Strong growth in the U.S., China and Western Europe is expected to drive a 7.5 percent growth in global trade this year, ahead of last year’s 4.5 percent increase, the World Trade Organiza- tion forecast Monday. The report showed that China’s imports last year grew at faster pace than its exports. China in 2003 saw its exports grow 35 percent to $438.4 billion, making it the world’s fourth-largest exporter; it had been ranked fifth in 2004. Its imports rose 40 percent to $412.8 billion, moving it to the third-largest importer slot, from sixth. “The rapid expansion of China’s merchandise trade stands out,” a WTO report said. According to WTO trade estimates, China’s exports of clothing last year expanded by 26.1 percent to $52.1 billion. In a press conference, WTO chief economist Patrick Low warned that there were a few risks that could make this year’s global growth lower than forecast. These included whether the U.S. will continue with what he called its “rather remarkable income and trade growth perform- ance….Whether western European demand will stay up, where it is now, and feeding into trade growth, and a third factor is what will happen to oil prices.” Despite the projected rebound in trade, the strongest since the late Nineties, WTO chief Supachai Panitchpakdi emphasized that the pace of world trade growth “remains uneven and there remain many barriers to trade globally….Greater expansion of trade would provide support for sustained economic growth and job creation.” part-timers during the holidays. In 2003, the global agency said the value of merchandise exports increased by 16 percent to $7.3 trillion boosted by double-digit-per- centage gains by major economies such as Germany, and “unprece- dented” levels of expansion by China. In nominal terms, Germany — in part due to the low value of the dollar, replaced the U.S. as the world’s top exporter with shipments worth $748.4 billion, up 22 percent from the year before, followed by the U.S. with $724 billion, up 4 percent. d Work and Low Pay The U.S. remained the world’s top merchandise importer with a 9 percent rise to $1.3 trillion, for a 16.8 percent share of total world imports. Next was Germany with $601.7 billion, up 23 percent. California supermarket workers protest impending wage and benefits changes brought on by competition from Wal-Mart. Labor Chief Slams So. Korean Corp. NEW YORK — The head of an international apparel labor union last week blasted what he called an effort by South Korean investors to prevent the rise of labor unions in Bangladesh. Neal Kearney, general secretary of the International Textile, Garment & Leather Workers’ Federation, in a letter, harshly criticized a move by the Youngone Corp. — which has investments in a Bangladeshi export-process- ing zone — to stop Bangladesh’s government from lifting a ban on unions within the zone. Youngone made its challenge in a December 2003 Bangladeshi court filing. “The legal action initiated by Youngone is a disgrace,” Kearney said in a statement. “For a foreign investor to say that the minister of labor of Bangladesh has no authority to introduce freedom of association shows in- credible contempt for the government and the people of the host country.” In his letter to the South Korean minister of commerce, Kearney noted that Bangladesh has been in violation of global standards allowing unions since 1992. “Continuing to ban trade unions in EPZs is a sure-fire way of destroying the garment industry,” he wrote. — Scott Malone Ulrich Pay Package Falls NEW YORK — Total compensation for Target Corp. chairman and chief executive officer Robert J. Ulrich declined in 2003, accord- ing to the company’s proxy statement filed on Monday with the Securities and Exchange Commission. Ulrich’s total compensation fell 12.7 percent to $6.1 million from Experts said Wal-Mart isn’t the best training ground for managers. “Like McDonald’s, Wal-Mart is a $7 million in the previous year, while his base salary increased 10.5 manufacturer of low-skilled workers,” said Therese Byrne, publisher of the Retail Maxim Report. “If percent to $1.6 million from $1.4 million in the previous year. managers left those companies today they’d have difficulty getting high-paying jobs because everything Despite the increase in base pay, Ulrich’s bonus decreased they do is so standardized. They don’t have to make many decisions.” markedly. For 2003, the company reported granting Ulrich a $3.3 Asked whether Wal-Mart has formal career paths, the spokeswoman said, “Yes and no.” Using her million bonus, which is a 28.3 percent reduction from the $4.6 experience as an example, she said she rose from cashier to jobs to training, operations, and finally million bonus issued in the previous year. corporate communications. Bonuses at Target are performance-based. Ulrich’s lower Career advancement is a central issue in job satisfaction. According to Bernhardt, the retail industry bonus likely reflects weaker, overall results at Mervyn’s and is one of the flattest in terms of job hierarchy. In other words, there are many entry-level low-wage posi- Marshall Field’s, both of which are now on the auction block. tions but few opportunities for upward mobility. However, insurance and retirement contributions on behalf of It wasn’t always this way. Until the mid- to late-Eighties, selling floors were a training ground for the company increased 27.9 percent to $1.2 million compared management. Young men with an interest in a retail career took sales jobs in the Lord & Taylor men’s with $947,434 in the previous year. According to the proxy, the in- department. The A&S buyer training program was considered the Harvard of the retail industry. crease included a $10,953 401(k) plan matching contribution, Susan Burns, director of employment initiatives at Federated Department Stores, claimed there’s $297,096 deferred compensation credit for matching contribu- more job mobility in retail than other industries and Baer calculated that about 12 percent of new exec- tions that could not be made to the 401(k) plan, $900,826 re- utive hires at Bloomingdale’s are the result of internal promotions, which can include the sales staff portable earnings on deferred compensation and $2,832 paid for and other areas of the store. life insurance. But that seems to be an anomaly. Meanwhile, total compensation for Gregg W. Steinhafel, presi- “Retailers, especially larger chains, are hiring experienced industry specialists for middle manage- dent of Target Stores, declined 16.3 percent to $2.0 million from ment and operations,” said Hastings. “The concept of starting at the bottom and working your way up $2.3 million in 2002. through the ranks doesn’t exist anymore.” —Ross Tucker 14 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 6, 2004 Penney’s Sheds Eckerd Unit Juvedical Line Utilizes Continued from page 2 Reaction in the market was sitions such as Fay’s and Geno- both common stock repurchases mixed. vese. “I won’t be surprised if we and debt retirements.” “This is going to be interesting. see some stores closed or sold off New Skin Technology Smith Barney retail analyst But I don’t see it changing the to other chains where there is du- Deborah Weinswig said in a re- landscape dramatically. However, plication. CVS has done a great By Melissa Drier and intensifies the effect of the port that the benefits of the deal it is an opportunity to get these job in cosmetics, including Juvedical day and night creams, may not be realized until next stores better,” said Alan Levin, adding beauty advisers in 1,000 ZURICH — In these burgeoning according to the company. The year. “In our view, 2004 will be a chairman and chief executive of stores. And I have faith in the new days of cosmeceuticals, serum can also be applied to ‘hybrid’ year where the benefits Happy Harry’s, a 72-store family- management team at Brooks that Juvena of Switzerland has inte- specific areas, such as patches [for J.C. Penney] of the divesti- owned chain in Newark, Del. they’ll do a top-notch job with the grated first-aid medical technol- of irritation and scars, and is ture will be somewhat muddied “There are four biggies now [drug- stores they acquired.” ogy into a new skin care line, suitable for all ages and skin by the execution of the transac- store chains] and there are still Sources said historically, called Juvedical. types, including men’s. The 50- tion,” said Weinswig. four biggies. It is just a different Eckerd was a powerhouse in The Swiss firm, which cele- ml. renewing day and night Most recently, the troubled four.” Levin said CVS and Brooks health and beauty, but dwindling brates its 50th birthday this creams are priced at $85.40 and Eckerd’s drugstore business had have similar retailing strategies. traffic had hurt some front-end year, collaborated with Prof. $97.60, 70 euros and 80 euros, re- pushed Penney to a loss of more With CVS now operating some businesses. Particularly in its Odile Damour, spectively, and than $1 billion in the fourth 5,000 doors, added Levin, “I home base of Florida, Wal-Mart a leader in the like the serum, quarter. However, taking Eckerd guess they will be in a position to and Walgreens have come on field of skin re- BEAUTY BEAT are fragrance- out of the picture, profits shot demand more from vendors. The strong and taken market share. construction free and geared up by 45.4 percent to more than same is the case of Brooks [Jean “It may be a good acquisition and the founder and head of the to all ages and skin types. a quarter-billion dollars on sales Coutu]. They went from 330 to from a pharmacy standpoint, but Laboratoire des Substituts Juvedical will hit perfumery growth of 6.2 percent. Same- 1,800. They will also be in a posi- not from total store,” commented Cutanes of Lyon. While working shelves in Austria, Switzerland, store sales, a key measure of a tion to have more leverage.” one beauty supplier, who asked with burn patients whose se- Germany, Spain, Italy, France, retailer’s health, gained 3.2 per- Vince Colonna, vice presi- not to be named. He said com- vere injuries made a skin graft Holland, Greece, Portugal and a cent — the third year of growth. dent of sales and marketing for pared with retailers like Wal- impossible, Damour invented few Eastern European coun- With Eckerd dragging Pen- Puig Fragrance division said, Mart, chain drugstore companies the patented Skin Nova tries in April and May, followed ney’s down, however, the compa- “Both CVS and Brooks are ter- in general have maintained “a Technology. This technology is a by Asia in the second half of ny reported a stunning loss of rific. CVS is well run and has a way of doing business that is matrix of three biopolymers 2004. Juvedical will also be $3.42 a share. history from Revco of absorbing somewhat old-fashioned.” He that create an ideal environ- launched in the U.S. as soon as Wall Street was quick to see chains efficiently. Brooks, with was doubtful on how ably a com- ment, she said, to nourish, grow the registration process is com- through that ugly bottom line. industry veteran David Morocco pany like Brooks, which some and thereby build a new skin on pleted, the company said. Investors got a good look at life [vice president], will also do a say is undermanned, can revive the basis of just a few skin cells. Worldwide, Juvedical will be without Eckerd and liked what good job integrating the stores.” the business in slower stores. Dr. Sven Gohla, vice president sold in Juvena’s normal distri- they saw. The company’s stock Colonna went on to point out —With contributions from of research and development of bution of about 4,000 doors. has since reached a new 52-week that Coutu will reap further ben- Laura Klepacki and the Juvena/La Prairie group, was Vollmuth said the new line is high of $35.01 in midday trading. efits from previous Eckerd acqui- Faye Brookman intrigued by Damour’s new tech- expected to generate between nology. “Our basic assumption was $6.1 million and $9.8 million, or that if it heals extensive burn 5 million to 8 million euros, in wounds, Skin Nova Technology its first year. “That may be must significantly improve the small, but for Juvena it’s big,” structure of healthy she remarked. skin,” Gohla said. He Juvena, which pio- contacted Damour at neered the use of the a scientific conven- co-enzyme Q10 in the tion three years ago, Nineties, considers and work began to Juvedical its key incorporate and sta- launch of the past 10 bilize her technology years. “And we’re put- into cosmetic formu- ting everything we las. The result: have behind it,” Juvedical With Skin Vollmuth said. “More Nova Technology, a than what everybody three-unit range con- usually spends, which sisting of Juvedical is about 50 percent of renewing serum and sales revenue,” she renewing day cream noted, declining to be and night cream. more specific. But it Juvedical “is for suggested the compa- 7%6% !$$%$ ! '2%!4 .%7 &%!452% 4/ everybody because ny could be spending it regulates skin re- $3 million to $6 mil- newal,” said Charl- lion on the campaign. /52 3%26)#%3 )43 #!,,%$ 4(% 7%34 #/!34 otte Vollmuth, vice In addition to a president of Juvena classic print ad cam- Switzerland and paign, featuring petri 2OSENTHAL 2OSENTHAL )NC EXPANDS TO ,OS !NGELES WITH OUR Marlies Moller dishes such as Beauty Hair Care. Damour uses in her UNIQUE BLEND OF lNANCIAL SERVICES AND INDEPENDENT SPIRIT In cases of irritat- lab’s skin-regenera- ed, sensitive or tion process, single- !FTER YEARS OF SUCCESS IN .EW 9ORK WERE OPENING A NEW OFFICE IN stressed skin, she use samples in petri said, the technolo- dish-shaped pack- ,! TO BETTER SERVE OUR 7EST #OAST CLIENTS )N AN UNCERTAIN FINANCIAL gy establishes an ages, mailers, point- optimal environ- of-sale and window CLIMATE WHEN CONSOLIDATION HAS AFFECTED SO MANY FACTORING COMPANIES ment to mitigate displays will also the problems. How- Juvena’s Juvedical serum. support the launch. 2OSENTHAL 2OSENTHAL )NC OFFERS THE STABILITY OF AN INDEPENDENT ever, Juvedical is Moreover, Juvena is not being marketed as a sensi- actively going after advertorials, FAMILY FIRM 7E ARE KNOWN FOR OUR RESOURCES AND A SINGULAR LACK OF tive skin treatment line. Juvena as this is a concept that requires sees its strongest potential in considerable explanation, BUREAUCRACY 4HE RESULT FASTER DECISIONS LESS RED TAPE )F YOURE IN the treatment of well-balanced Vollmuth stressed. skin, where Skin Nova Group chief executive offi- BUSINESS ANYWHERE ON THE GLOBE LET US SHOW YOU THE DIFFERENCE Technology’s biopolymer ma- cer Harald Stolzenberg said trix not only enhances the func- that Juvedical is unlike any- WE CAN MAKE tions of the skin, but also boosts thing he has seen in his 30 the performance of other ap- years in the industry. “It’s so plied products. In other words, daring, so different, it’s a step Vollmuth explained, the core forward,” he said. Juvedical renewing serum can So why wasn’t this ground- be used under any cream and breaking technology launched will additionally enhance the with La Prairie rather than its 2OSENTHAL 2OSENTHAL )NC function of that cream. little sister, Juvena? “Juvedical The renewing serum is priced was clearly developed by the .%7 9/2+ /&&)#% "ROADWAY .EW 9ORK .9 at $146.40, or 120 euros, for 30-ml. Juvena people, so it would have ,/3 !.'%,%3 /&&)#% 4HE 7ARNER #ENTER /XNARD 3TREET 3UITE 7OODLAND (ILLS #! All dollar figures are calculated been unfair to give it to the big- WWWROSENTHALINCCOM EMAIL INFO ROSENFACTCOM from the euro at current ex- ger one,” Stolzenberg respond- change rates. ed. Plus, the Skin Nova The serum serves as a cor- Technology would have clashed rective for “all daily skin prob- with La Prairie’s core cellular lems, whether large or small,” concept, he pointed out. WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 6, 2004 15
Patterns/Samples/Beading APPAREL JOBS PRODUCTION COORDINATOR/ 1)Artists: N-I-T - Jr. - Girls 2)CAD Artists EDI Manager ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Duplicates Cut & Sew 3)Technical designer:kid-men-ladies-knit-wvn 40M Apparel Manf. seeks individual with QUALITY CONTROL Lantis Eyewear Corp., a designer, marketer & Full Service - Good Quality Call (212) 643-8090 or fax: 643-8127 (agcy) solid experience in ANSI X12 EDI Fast paced women’s apparel manufac- distributor of sunglasses, has an immediate Call Johnny: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 standards, RDBMS, application integra- turer seeks production coordinator opening for an Acct. Mgr. w/ 3+ yrs exp successfully Jersey + Rib Lycra ASST DESIGNER $55K tion, mapper/translators, Microsoft NT, with 3+ import experience. Must be managing specialty retail accts w/ ability to Fleece + Velour PATTERNS, SAMPLES, and VANs, and mapping to produce daily computer literate and have excellent bring in new business. Midtown office. Great Pvt Label. Illustrate, Fabric, Mills EDI production for in-bound and follow-up skills. comp. & benefits. EOE. M/F/D/V. Drake Fabrics [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 718-389-8902 PRODUCTIONS out-bound transaction sets, Familiarity Fax resume to Lynn 212-302-2399 Send resume w/ salary requ. to: All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Bookkeeper with Harbinger, Mercator desired. [email protected] or Call Sherry 212-719-0622. [email protected] PRODUCTION fax to {201} 766-7717 Alexis Bittar Fax: 732-280-6190, Attn: Tony. Import Production PATTERNS, SAMPLES, F/T Bookkeeper required. Experience Jean Sales PRODUCTIONS in Navision A+. Fax resume w/salary FASHION CAREERS Assistant Est’d., successful & growing private label req to: (718) 422-7584 In Design, Tech Design & Production Major Textile Importer seeks motivated mfr. is looking to expand its sales team. Samples and patterns full servcie shop See listings @ www.apparelstaffing.com person to assist with sourcing, price to the trade. Fine fast work. Candidate should have experience with BUYER Or Fax Resume To: (212) 302-1161 negotiation, order-entry and daily com- MAJORS on program business. 212-869-2699. munication with overseas. Must be Ready to wear buyer wanted for Long Graphic/CAD to $50K GREAT OPPORTUNITY! Island high volume retail operation. detail oriented, organized and able to Please Fax or E-mail to SB: Jr Missy sleepwear communicate in mandarin. Word and Call Marty or Liz 631-420-0890 Jennifer *Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 212-730-5057 / [email protected] or fax resume 631-752-7785 Excel knowledge a must. Experience [email protected] in import a plus but not necessary. Please fax resume to 212-704-0938 Missy Sales Cutter/Patternmaker GROMWELL GROUP Seeking an experienced seller to grow Designer evening wear co. Cut special Immediate opportunities available in: Production Manager established Missy Woven Tops & related Unique Apparel Brand orders & small lots. Long Island loca- Design, Technical Design, Sales and business. Current contacts & knowledge Untapped niche: garden clothing. tion. Fax resume 516-248-6622. Highly organized & self motivated person Production needed for young designer sportswear of the Missy Market is a major plus. 11 yrs domestic mfg. 40% plus gm. Email: [email protected] GREAT OPPORTUNITY! Small w/good growth opportunities. company. Must have excellent computer or Call 212-972-9300 skills, strong technical knowledge, able Please Fax or E-mail to AW: The Piper Group, LLC (503) 620-1800 DATA ENTRY 212-730-5057 / [email protected] [email protected] For order processing, EDI Interface. to handle all aspects of overseas and Knowledge of Sys 36 helpful. KARLYN FASHION domestic production. Please fax resume & Sales Please fax resume to: (212) 391-0208 RECRUITERS salary requirements (212) 840-2657 1Block from Bloomingdale’s SOHO! Production Mgr $100-125K. Current exp. in bet- PRIVATE LABEL Architect designed storefront space DESIGN APPLICATIONS OUR PASSION IS FASHION ter to bridge womens outerwear req’d. Tech with big windows, 14ft ceilings and 212-947-3399 knowledge of construction of outrwr + prod SWEATER SALES skylights. 2000ft retail, 1000ft office / SPECIALIST-NY Many Openings Avail! Immed Hire! admin+ scheduling. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy Young spirited sweater importer seeks showroom plus 1000ft basement. 40% Lectra, a leading technology provider Email: [email protected] self motivated, high-energy, organized below market! Charles@ 718-490-9205. junior Salesperson. RESUMES for the apparel industry, is seeking a Managers Sales Assistant 37th St. Full Floor 7500 ft. FASHION INDUSTRY SPECIALISTS Design Applications Specialist for its Three years private label import experience Beautifully Built Move In Condition Free Evaluation - Lifetime Updates NY office to provide training to customers Retail Mgr. & Asst. Mgr. required. Strong communication, Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 GILBERT CAREER RESUMES on Lectra’s suite of design software By Design LLC. computer and presentation skills are Search-www.manhattanoffices.com (800)967-3846 amex/mc/visa such as U4la and PrimaVision. Two (2) We have an immediate opening for a essential. Must have a passion to explore fashionresumes.com years of industry exp. utilizing U4la Sales Assistant in our NY showroom, and develop new accounts. We offer 488 7th Ave fashioncareercenter.com and PrimaVision design software, good must be highly energetic, well organ- excellent benefits. communication skills and public Seeking F/T Managers for our N.Y. ized, detail oriented and thrives in a 1 BR. SHOWROOMS speaking exp. and a good working boutique opening April 29. Management multifaceted, fast pace environment. Please email your resume to knowledge of the design process along experience preferred, but not a must. Showroom sales and assist Sales Exec- [email protected] or LIVE / WORK Fax {212} 840-7742 From $1550-$1850, 400-600SF with exp. using Photoshop & Illustrator Excitement about our brand is the utives in all aspects of business plus Wd. flrs, hi ceils, April Occup are required. Travel is required. most important attribute. Cool, hip, various administrative duties. Must be 212-629-8694 M-F 10a-6p No Fee Please fax or email resume to: small shop with lots of autonomy in computer literate. Salary commensu- Sales Professional Lectra Meatpacking district. Entrepreneurial rate with exp. Fax salary req. & Well known contemporary sweater/ Showroom / Office / Retail Human Resourses Manager spirit a plus as Managers play a key resume to: HR Manager 201-854-4834 knit Co. seeks exp’d sales pros. Min 5 We find you space-best deal-no fee Fax: 800-746-3416 role in the development of the brand. years exp reqd, strong connection Sublet 525 7th/ready Email: [email protected] E-mail resume to: [email protected] SALES ASSISTANT w/major, specialty chain in better mkt. Garment Center Real Estate Major apparel company seeks individu- High commission incentive plan and Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 Design Assist to $45K PATTERNMAKER al to work with Account Executive on great working environment. Kids/ Mens. 1-2 yrs. exp. Photoshop/ Ilustrator Contemporary Sportswear Co. seeks supporting accounts. Must have Fax resume to 646-473-0963 or Showrooms & Lofts PRODUCTION ASSISTANT JanetStevens*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 top-notch 1st patternmaker from the experience with major department e-mail: [email protected] BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Hydraulic Jeans seeks import produc- [email protected] Contemporary Jr. Market. Abilities stores. Excellent computer and Great ’New’ Office Space Avail tion asst. Responsibilites include sched- will include excellent flat pattern skills communication skills are necessary. SALES PRO - JRS. ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 uling, issuing purchase orders, and Design Asst with an understanding of specs and Fax resume to 212-239-2766 Established Jr. company seeks energetic grading, detailed cutter’s must, complete N.Y. based SALES PRO with strong monitoring overseas shipments. Must Better private label co needs person w/ knowledge of all types of knits/wovens 2yrsexperience to sketch, source fab- SALES ASST/EDI $35K relationships with Specialty Chains & be detail oreinted, organized, capable of with shrinkage issues. Ideal candidate Order, Track, Allocate, Coord & Follow-up Department stores to launch an exciting ric, merchandise and organize design must have 3+ years of experience. handling multi-tasks. Minimum three library. Knowledge of Color Matters a [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 new knit top line. Must expand business If you possess these skills fax/email in all territories. Great Benefits. years experience. Must be proficient in plus. Great opportunity. Exc. benefits. resume to {212} 947-6480/ Email resume: [email protected] SENIOR Please fax resume to: (610) 932-7051 Micosoft Excel. Great opportunity. [email protected]. or E-MAIL: [email protected] 214 W.39 - Short Term Sublet Fax resume to Human Resources ADMINISTRATOR/ May1 to Dec 31, - 1000 sq.ft. Showroom; DESIGNER ASSISTANT/ $4,000/mo. - Utilities included 212-719-1521. PATTERNMAKER CUSTOMER SERVICE SALES REPRESENTATIVES E-mail: [email protected] FABRIC PURCHASER Young designer sportswear co. seeks Hands-on individual needed to work NY Designer of better, dressy sportswear seeks Young contemporary sportswear co. seeks patternmaker w/ min. 7 yrs. exp. in the closely with sales associates in process- commissioned reps w/ estab. customer base. motivated individual to assist head designer. better/ designer market. 1st and prod’n ing customer orders.Handle customer Call/Email: {718} 229-6575 Great NYC Showroom pattern. Must be detail oriented & requests for samples. Coordinate with [email protected] SHARE A SHOWROOM SPACE VP PRODUCTION PLANNING Must be highly organized, detail-oriented and computer skill are a must. Must act as know tailoring as well as draping. production personnel.Line sheets, pri- 1466 Broadway / Spacious 1100 sq ft Please fax resume to: (212) 594-8539 vate label and knowledge of retail a Contact Cynthia at 213-628-2727 50M Ctrl NJ Apparel Manf seeks liaison between textile and trim comp’s. experienced individual to manage Email or fax resume to: plus. Must have excellent computer [email protected]/{212} 947-6480. and communication skills Penthouse Sublease activities of inside production and PRIVATE LABEL Email resume to: outsourcing, material requirements [email protected] Showroom space; West 39th St. available Designer COORDINATOR for immediate sublease. Furnished w/ planning and open to buy. Exp with Fast-paced women’s apparel manufac- Supply Chain Manager to $150K private bathroom & kitchen 212-575-8858 major retailers is required. Associate Designer turer seeks production coordinator to PA loc. Import planning/ forecasting Men’s intimate apparel company seeks handle private lable accounts. Will be Allen*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 [email protected] Associate designer. The Ideal candi- communicating with buyers and [email protected] Fax: 732-280-6190, Attn: Kathy date should have a min of 2 years expe- factories to develop programs with rience in product development and private label customers. Must be fluent TECHNICAL DESIGNERS LINGERIE must be a team player. Must be in English and computer literate and Small Madison Ave. company seeks detail oriented & have strong commu- *Bridge Pvt Label...... $85-90K have 3+ years import experience. *Better Dresses...... $75-80K independent commission based Sales ADMIN. ASSISTANT nication skills. Must be computer profi- Fax resume to Lynn 212-302-2399 Reps to sell contemporary ladies sleep cient as well as spec prototypes, *Bottoms...... $75-80K Young, contemporary line seeks motivated [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 -wear. Interested in mid to high-end Assistant with strong computer, samples with good understanding of Department & Specialty stores. Need phone, and writing skills. Accounting garment construction. Job duties coverage in FL, CA, NY, New England experience a plus. Must be detail- include creating pkg’s, factory corre- PROD’N MGR $100K TECHNICAL SWEATER & Chicago areas. Call: (781) 235-9471 oriented & able to keep up with fast- spondence of s/o’s and sample or Email: [email protected] approvals. Please fax resumes to : MUST HAVE Pvt Label Exp Better Dress DESIGNER paced garment industry. [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 Private label sweater importer seeks Email or fax resume to: 212-842-4030 attn: B. Gray We are an equal opportunity employer. fulltime freelance Technical Designer. [email protected]/{212} 947-6480. Candidates w/ 5 yrs exp to work in our SALES REPS WANTED NY studio. Must be able to flat sketch A large private label company seeking Admin SaraMax Production Assistant Fast Paced apparel mfgr seeks exp’d &interpret sweater trends into tech independent & productive Sales Reps Exec. Sales Assistant person to prepare P.O.’s, tracking, sketches. Will be requ’d to determine with est’d relationships with Mass correspondence and more. Must be appropriate specs of: missy, junior, plus Merchants & Discount Stores to sell Seeking extremely organized and off price goods. Please contact with detail oriented Sales Assistant. Must DESIGNERS detail oriented with multi tasking sizes & send tech packs overseas. Follow Girls’/Junior Jeans abilities and excellent communication through on all sample development details to - Fax: (203) 264-9153 or have previous experience with Wal- Email: [email protected] Mart RL and Target POL systems. Seeking exp’d. Designer to build & lead skills as well as proficient in excel. through email correspondence. Highly Proficient with MS Word, Excel and team. Take concepts from ideas to reality. Please fax resume with salary motivated, excellent communication skills, strong oral and written communica- Must have current knowledge of denim requirements to 212-714-9303 organized, & very hard working we tion skills. Team player. market. Extensive travel required. would like to speak with you. Fax resume to 212-594-0452 Send resumes & sal. req. to: Also seeking ASSOCIATE DESIGNER [email protected] to assist in sample and line development. Production Assistants Private Label Mfr. seeks 2 individuals or FAX to {212} 840-7742. Admin Since 1967 GREAT OPPORTUNITY! with import experience. Must be able Please Fax or E-mail to HE: to multi task and work independently. VP OF TECH DESIGN $250K W-I-N-S-T-O-N 212-730-5057 / [email protected] Strong computer skills req’d. TWO po- Better Bridge Mfg. Supervise 6 Depts. APPAREL STAFFING sitions avail. Bilingual Chinese a plus. 100 People+. FOB Packages DESIGN*SALES*MERCH Salary to 35K. Please E-mail resumes to: [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 ADMIN*TECH*PRODUCTION DESIGNER [email protected] (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 SPORTSWEAR Globe-Tex Apparel PRODUCTION Analyst Major apparel co. seeks candidate to create contemporary moderate missy, BlissWorld LLC, a fast growing company VENDOR COMPLIANCE petite related separates with 5-7 years and leader in the spa, cosmetics, and ANALYST experience. Must have a strong back- catalog arena, is seeking an exp’d Asst. ground in woven bottoms, skirts, & Mgr, Product Development to take Major Women’s Apparel Co. is seeking the product idea from conception to an individual to understand all logisti- jackets. The ability to identify emerg- ing trends & silhouettes. Must pos- fruition. Prior product development cal & compliance issues. Work with experience in a cosmetic environment our Operations, IT & A/R Dep’ts. to un- sess great color, print, & pattern sense. Must be organized, detail-oriented, required. Please e-mail your resume to: derstand our compliance issues & as- [email protected] sist in the implementation of changes computer lit. & be a team player. We in systems & business processes to are amajorapparel co. in the BOSTON Goldluck International AREA. Excellent benefits & salary. CHINA-QUOTA FREE comply with our Retailers specifica- Production Coord Leading Chinese mfr seeking All categories incl cotton jeans. High tions. Candidate must have exp. in Fax resumes to HR: 617-332-3260 quality, large vol., FOB or LDP. Call EDI administration to back up our ex- Alexis Bittar sales agents/ reps. Major Scott 212-719-2450/Victor 323-266-7711 isting EDI Admin. The position will vis- Division Head $175K ++. Current exp. as head F/T position handling purchasing, Dept/Chain store exp. a must. it our retail partners as well as attend of div. of women’s designer label required. scheduling & growth in product’n. Email/fax resume with reference to: conferences as necessary to stay cur- Strong relationships w/ dept. stores. Women’s Fast paced position w/great potential PATTERN/SAMPLES rent with compliance issues. Position outerwear exp preferred not necessary. Run en- to grow. Management exp & excellent [email protected] Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast will be at our N. Bergen location. Pls tire div. for large growing multi-div mdtwn co. computer skills a must. Fax resume 212-448-9288 work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 fax sal req. & res. to: HR 201-854-4834 Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy with salary req to: 718-422-7584 16 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 6, 2004 Street SIMMON STEWART PHOTO BY Wise
Mike Skinner
NEW YORK — It’s tempting to describe “A Grand Don’t Come for Free,” is startling. “I saw this thing on ITV the other week,” he sings hopefully in one the new CD by Mike Skinner, the British rapper who performs under the chorus, referring to the U.K. commercial network, “said that if she played with her moniker The Streets, as a “concept album,” a “rap musical” or even — hair, she may be keen.” eye® God help us — a “rock opera.” But on a recent afternoon at a Mexican “People have this idea that rappers are on the edge of crime,” he points out. “Kids restaurant in New York, Skinner, dressed in a sporty Lacoste are buying into a lifestyle thing, and I actually find that quite exciting. But I don’t windbreaker, shudders at the thought. “I don’t really like those words,” want people thinking that I’m a criminal.” he says. “Kind of pretentious, you know?” Indeed, to the 25-year-old rapper, such naked sincerity is its own macho challenge. In which case he’ll probably really hate reading that the follow-up to his acclaimed “I’m still kind of showing off,” he admits. “It’s like, ‘Look how honest I can be.’ ” debut, “Original Pirate Material,” is the record that James Joyce would have made if he There is one big difference, however, between the singer and his musical alter ego: were a recovering PlayStation junkie — a tragicomic gem, set to a laconic Garage beat, Only one of them is a critical darling on two continents. Fame hasn’t changed Skinner that turns such banalities as bad cell-phone reception into the stuff of epic poetry. too much, though. He still can’t drive, and he spends most of his time tinkering with The album chronicles a year in the life of an average bloke, during which he runs a new tracks, listening to music — Kenny Rogers is a current favorite, “because all the few errands, bets on football, goes clubbing, meets, cheats on and loses a girl and, in the best lyricists wanted to work with him” — hanging out with his large extended family final track, achieves an uplifting emotional epiphany. Although Skinner sees this hero as and girlfriend, and shopping. He leans toward the casual fashion championed by a version of himself — “That is my personality” — he says the supporting characters and Fred Perry, Lacoste and Sergio Tachini and admits he’s become a bit obsessive. “I’ll situations are mostly invented. “I do overcook them,” he admits. “It’s kind of dramatized.” quite happily buy clothes every day,” he says. Even so, Skinner’s brand of fiction is a far cry from the usual hypermasculine rap Even so, he well remembers what life was like before The Streets were paved with fantasies. In a genre that often seems like an elaborate mass visualization exercise gold. “I’ve been hitless,” Skinner says with a shrug. “I’m better off where I am now.” for disempowered teenage boys, Skinner’s willingness to lay bare his vulnerabilities — Aaron Gell Rodrigo Pessoa with the Brasilia saddle at the Hermès store. BACK IN THE SADDLE NEW YORK — Like father, like son. In the Sixties, the horseman Nelson Pessoa rode with a Steinkraus saddle, made especially for him by Hermès and named after the American champion Bill Steinkraus. Recently, his son, Rodrigo, asked the luxury goods company to update the model. They created the Brasilia, which uses three kinds of leather — buffalo for the seat; smooth grain cow for the flaps, and calf for the panels — and will sell for approximately $4,100. “I think this is going to please a lot of riders,” the younger Pessoa said recently during an in- store appearance at the Hermès boutique on Madison Avenue here, showing off the new saddle. Pessoa, 31, is not so well known in the States, but his expert horse jumping, not to mention his position on the Brazilian Olympic team, have made him a star in his country. “It’s the best saddle possible that there is. It helps you feel the rhythm of the horse.” As if riding and racing horses wasn’t enough, Pessoa also has an affinity for soccer (“There’s not a Brazilian that doesn’t like soccer,” he conceded) and Formula 1 racing. “There are a lot of similarities between the turning of the horse and the turning of the car,” he explained. “The computers of the car talk back to you and you have to hear what the horse is telling you. And it’s a similar exhilaration whenever you win.” Lately, Pessoa’s favorite horse happens to be called Hermès St. Louis. “Our horse is very special,” he added. “It’s not a machine. It’s like a human being.” And not only is he expecting to compete in this summer’s Olympics in Greece — “You always go with a positive mind and I think my horse is in good shape” — but Pessoa and his American wife of three years, Keri Potter, are expecting a daughter. The athlete won’t force her, however, to mount a horse. “We’ll support whatever she wants to play, whether she decides on tennis or to be a ballet dancer,” he said. “But it will be a big responsibility if she decides to follow her dad and her grandfather.” PHOTO BY DAVID TURNER DAVID PHOTO BY PHOTO BY DAVID TURNER DAVID PHOTO BY — Marshall Heyman