TARGET CORP. SELLS MERVYN’S FOR $1.65B/2 Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • July 30, 2004 • $2.00

▲ Origins launches a chocolate-inspired line WWDFRIDAY of bath and body products. See page 7. Beauty In the Buff NEW YORK — Glycolic peels and microdermabrasion treatments were once solely the province of dermatologists’ offices. Now, they’re moving to retail counters. The latest and most broadly distributed entry is coming from Lancôme, which intends to add consumer appeal to the chemical procedure with Resurface Peel Restructuring and Soothing System, due in October. It could ring up sales of $25 million in its first year. For more, see page 7.

Democrats’ Party Delivers Little Boost for Boston Retailers By Katherine Bowers for a crowd chanting “We love Bill,” $12,000 timepiece donated by Swiss BOSTON — On Tuesday afternoon, and leaving with several shiny maker Carl F. Bucherer and,

Y BRYN KENNY shortly before his flight out, former shopping bags prominently in hand. according to sources, a watch for President Bill Clinton made a swing It was a photo op par excellence. one of Clinton’s handlers. into jeweler Alpha Omega’s All it took to pull it off was many In the end, as Alpha Omega Harvard Square flagship, mugging frenzied phone calls, the gift of a See Boston, Page 4 PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA; STYLED B MITRA; ROBERT PHOTO BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 30, 2004 WWDFRIDAY Target Sells Mervyn’s for $1.65B Beauty GENERAL By Arthur Zaczkiewicz to GE Consumer Finance. The re- Mervyn’s as an ongoing business In a week in which police often outnumbered shoppers, sales plunged for tailer said Mervyn’s would oper- reflects our long-term commit- all but the best-located and flashiest names in Boston retail. NEW YORK — Target Corp. is ate as an independent company. ment to create substantial value 1 selling its Mervyn’s division in Sun Capital and Cerberus for our shareholders over time Weathering double-digit decreases in its namesake and moderate two separate transactions for a could not be reached for com- and enhances the opportunity 3 businesses, Liz Claiborne navigated strong second-quarter results. total of $1.65 billion in cash. ment. Target referred media in- for all of our stakeholders.” Victoria’s Secret let out all of the stops Thursday for the national launch of The price tag is about 10 quiries to a prerecorded call on For Sun Capital Partners, times Mervyn’s pretax profits of its Web site, which said the deal this deal extends the investment 3 its hot subbrand, Pink, at its megastore at Herald Square in Manhattan. $160 million. The deal is expect- is expected to add a pretax gain firm’s reach into the retail in- ed to close in the third quarter. of $270 million, or 18 cents a dustry. Prior acquisitions for SUZY IS ON VACATION As reported in WWD on share, to Target’s bottom line. Sun Capital include companies Wednesday, a group of investors “Due to the seasonality of such as Sam Goody, SunCoast, Classified Advertisements...... 15 led by Sun Capital Partners Inc. Mervyn’s earnings, the sales of Media Play, Anchor Blue and To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is and Cerberus Capital Manage- this division is expected to be Wicke’s Furniture. [email protected], using the individual’s name. ment LP is buying Mervyn’s retail dilutive to Target Corp. by about Cerberus is considered a vul- operations for $1.2 billion in cash. 4 to 5 cents in the fourth quarter ture fund, which has been mak- WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. In a statement released late of this year,” the retailer said. ing investments in distressed VOLUME 188, NO. 21. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional Thursday, well after the market Mervyn’s is based in Hayward, companies. Last year the firm issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three closed, Target also named Calif., and operates 257 stores in bought Fila. Cerberus also additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 Lubert-Adler/Klaff and Partners 13 states, mostly in the West and bought or financed troubled com- West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, LP as part of the “investment South. Mervyn’s sales for 2003 panies such as specialty retailer Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior consortium” buying the name- were $3.6 billion. The deal to the G&G, textile supplier Guilford Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- plate, which it describes as a investment group includes Mills and intimate apparel retail- President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration “promotional, middle-market Mervyn’s distribution centers. er Frederick’s of Hollywood. No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. department store.” Bob Ulrich, chairman and Cerberus also was seen as a po- POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. In a separate transaction, chief executive officer of Target tential investor in Versace, which FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is Target is selling $475 million of Corp., said in a statement that is looking to sell a minority stake required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new Mervyn’s credit card receivables he believes “the sale of in its business some time this year. subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART Claiborne Hikes Outlook on Net Rise WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. By Evan Clark The Liz Claiborne NEW YORK — Liz Claiborne Inc., overcoming a brand saw second- double-digit decline in its namesake business quarter sales amid competition from private labels and new decrease 19.4 lines, reported a 13.3 percent increase in net in- Quote of the Week percent, but also a come for the second quarter and an improved much higher forecast for the full year. percentage of full- Boosted by improved performance from “The good thing is she’s getting brands such as Juicy Couture and Ellen Tracy, net price selling. income went up to $50.6 million, or 46 cents a di- treatment. It will probably make luted share, which put the bottom line 3 cents ahead of what analysts had projected, according her a better executive because to Reuters Estimates. Profit during the same peri- od last year was $44.6 million, or 41 cents. she will be able to function a “Our businesses continued to yield sales in- creases at retail due largely to a strong fashion little bit more.” cycle, increased full-price sell-through and our own conservative inventory planning, which has — Barry Schwartz on Donatella Versace been enabled by the substantial investment in entering rehab. technology made in recent years,” said chair- man and chief executive officer Paul Charron, in a statement. Revenue for the 13 weeks ended July 3 rose 6.9 percent to $1.03 billion from $959.4 million. Investors In Brief pushed shares of the firm up $1.56, or 4.6 percent, to $35.70 on the New York Stock Exchange Thursday. Claiborne’s other problem area was its moder- Apparel sales of the Liz Claiborne brand fell ately priced special markets business, which re- ● HIGHER GALERIES: Aided in part by a rebound in tourism, 19.4 percent for the quarter. Claiborne has been ported a 10.7 percent sales decline for the quarter. French retailer Groupe Galeries Lafayette said sales rose 4 per- working to turn around the brand with fewer Charron pointed to brands that contributed to cent to 1.34 billion euros, or $1.62 billion, in the quarter ended markdowns and a more focused presentation the quarter’s upside, including Enyce, acquired June 30. The Galeries flagship on Boulevard Haussmann, flush under one master label. The changes are having in December, as well as Juicy Couture, Ellen with Asian tourists, saw its sales leap 16.8 percent in the quarter some impact. Regular-priced sales made up 60 Tracy and Dana Buchman in accessories, and and 21.4 percent in June. The company also credited its new percent of the brand’s second-quarter sales at re- Sigrid Olsen in wholesale. Claiborne’s portfolio 100,000-square-foot Lafayette Maison home store, which bowed tail, up from 29 percent a year ago. includes more then 30 brands and an appetite for in March, for the gains. Overall, department store sales — under Claiborne attributed the sales drop to contin- fast-growing names persists. the Galeries Lafayette, Nouvelles Galeries and BHV banners — ued focus on inventory productivity by retailers, Analyst Jennifer Black, president of Jennifer rose 7 percent in the quarter to 658.1 million euros, or $794.3 the migration of some chains to exclusive and dif- Black & Associates, said Claiborne’s second-quar- million. The group also operates the Monoprix discount chain ferentiated offerings and competitive pressure ter performance was “not just luck” and hinged and has a financial services arm. from private label programs and new lines. H on the firm’s skill in managing its stable. Hilfiger by Tommy Hilfiger Corp., Lauren by “It’s just the beginning, because this is a compa- ● ROGERS LEAVES WILSONS LEATHER: The president and Ralph Lauren by Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. and ny that has done a lot with their systems, they’ve di- chief operating officer of Wilsons The Leather Experts Inc., Jones New York Signature by Jones Apparel versified their portfolio and now they’re just start- David L. Rogers, resigned Thursday effective Aug. 2. Rogers, a Group are among the better lines competing with ing to reap some more major rewards,” she said. 25-year veteran of Wilsons who said he is leaving to pursue other Liz in department stores. Overall, the second-quarter showing, which interests, will stay on as a director of the Minneapolis-based spe- Charron told Wall Street analysts on a confer- was helped by sales increases in the wholesale cialty retailer. “David has played an ever-increasing role in the ence call that the Liz brand is still in demand. non-apparel and retail categories, were strong growth of this company since 1980 and he will be sorely missed “There are retailers whose names you know enough for the firm to increase its guidance for by all of us at Wilsons Leather,” chief executive officer Joel that were begging for more Liz Claiborne product the full year. Waller said in a statement. in the second quarter,” Charron said. “Because Earnings per share are expected to be in the we were not taking any [inventory] chances, we $2.79 to $2.83 range, up from previous projections didn’t have it to give.” of $2.70 to $2.77. Sales guidance was bumped up to With the right product and the right value 7 to 8 percent from 6 to 8 percent. These assump- proposition, the brand could “endure very, very tions don’t take acquisitions into consideration. Clarification nicely,” he said. For the first half, which was skewed somewhat “It’s awfully hard to kill one of these brands,” by an extra week in the year-ago period, earnings The Paul Labrecque salon this fall is relaunching 14 of its exist- Charron said. “We’re not going to kill this one. rose 9.7 percent to $119.3 million, or $1.08 a dilut- ing hair care products, with new formulations and packaging. An We’re going to build it and we’re going to make it ed share, from $108.7 million, or $1, a year earlier. additional 12 new hair care items will also launch at this time. endure. I have every confidence in our people Sales advanced 4.6 percent to $2.13 billion from This was unclear in a Snippet last Friday on page 8. and I’m getting more confident.” $2.04 billion. WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 30, 2004 3 WWW.WWD.COM Saks Names Bill Herbst Victoria’s Pink Rolls Out To Merchandising Post By Karyn Monget NEW YORK — Victoria’s Secret let out all the By David Moin stops Thursday for the national launch of its sub- brand Pink at the Victoria’s Secret megastore at NEW YORK — In another addition to the new executive squad at Saks Herald Square. Fifth Avenue, Bill Herbst, the top visual and store design executive Pink lingerie, intended for 18- to 22- year-olds at Macy’s East, will become vice president of visual merchandising with smaller proportions, was tested in 15 in early August. Victoria’s Secret stores in 2002 and was expanded Herbst will play a key role in helping to reshape the image of Saks to more than 50 units that year. The label and relat- and, in particular, shape the look of the Fifth Avenue flagship and ed lifestyle items are expected to be rolled out to branch locations, which are expected to undergo dramatic renova- another 150 to 200 doors by the end of this year. tions over the next several years. Echoing the hoopla that accompanied the Herbst will report to Terron Schaefer, senior vice president of introduction of Wonderbra in 1994, Victoria’s marketing. Schaefer is expected to fill other positions that will Secret kicked off its multimedia event with Pink report to him, in the visual, advertising and public relations areas. spokeswoman and supermodel Alessandra Starting in December 2003, Saks hired Fred Wilson as chairman and Ambrosio stepping out of a customized Hummer ceo, Andrew Jennings became president and chief merchandising offi- painted in Pink’s trademark pink-and-white cer and Ron Frasch became the number two merchant. Subsequently, logos with a VS Pink license plate. An oversized Schaefer joined the store. Pink mascot dog trailed behind the Hummer, as Herbst started his career at Bloomingdale’s in the Seventies, spent a promotional float, which caused a traffic jam. about 15 years at Macy’s and left in the late Nineties to work at a small There also were members of Team Pink, a PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTO BY specialty chain called Cherry & Webb, which no longer operates. He group of 40 women recruited by Victoria’s Secret Team Pink college girls surround supermodel-Pink returned to Macy’s in 2001. Macy’s has not yet announced a successor. at 25 colleges nationwide, who stepped out of a spokeswoman Alessandra Ambrosio. “Bill is a hard worker, took a modern approach to Macy’s, and pink-and-white stretch limo clutching pink knows art, architecture, style, and photography. He was able to striped and polkadot toy dogs as they tossed pink “I was on my way to the Empire State Building implement changes at Macy’s within a reasonable budget,” said a frisbees with the label’s logo at passersby. and I saw all of these cameras,” Staruch said. “All Macy’s supplier. Encompassing bras, panties, daywear, at- of this hype is very interesting, but if it sells the At Macy’s East, Herbst held the title of executive vice president of homewear, robes and beauty products as well as product, I guess it works.” visual merchandising and store design, was a member of the executive apparel, Victoria’s Secret posted annual rev- Joe and Tammy Porter of Zanesville, Ohio, were committee and reported to Ron Klein, chairman and ceo. He was enues of $3.81 billion in 2003 for its combined on hand to photograph their daughter, Amy, who was responsible for the visual merchandising and design projects in all 82 retail and catalogue operations, up from $3.58 a Pink Team member from Ohio State University. Macy’s East stores, and worked with the Federated Department Stores billion in 2002, and $3.27 billion in 2001. “They went to the campus and interviewed 1,000 Inc. design team, vendors and visual suppliers on new stores, renova- The company did not return phone calls or so students and they chose Amy,” her mother tions and in-store shops. He was also responsible for window displays. regarding information on the Pink subbrand. said. “They did a lot of on-camera interviews.” Among his accomplishments were modernizing Herald Square’s On the second level of the Herald Square flag- Jennifer Wood, a Pink Team member from second floor for ready-to-wear, cleaning up several floors to make ship, Mike Staruch, a tourist from Greensboro, San Diego State University, said, “This is the best them more spacious and getting the store to be more merchandise- N.C., photographed the fanfare in the Pink depart- experience I’ve ever had, a once-in-a-lifetime focused and younger in appeal. He is said to have a very clean aes- ment, which takes up about a third of the floor. experience.” thetic and to have imparted a greater focus on merchandising and display at Macy’s. He also brought more fashion to the windows. Asked about making the move to Saks, Herbst said, “It’s sad to leave Macy’s. But something different and exciting is happening at Saks. There is a great vision there and the management team there is Calvin Klein’s new window display. great. I love to be part of something new. Fashion Scoops “There are not many opportunities in retailing,” Herbst added. “The industry is condensing, condensing, condensing.” PUBLIC BATH: Pedestrians are clogging the sidewalk in Herbst moves into a slot last held by Sal Lenzo, who left Saks in front of Calvin Klein’s Madison Avenue store. But it’s August 2003. tough to tell whether they’re ogling the new CK Calvin Klein jewelry or the naked mannequin wearing it in a bathtub. One thing is certain — the display is more risqué than the current ads Natalia Vodianova is immersed in. For starters, the mannequin’s legs are out of the tub Rachel Barnett to Perry Ellis entirely. Dale Rozmiarek, vice president of creative servic-

es for Calvin Klein, set up the window to whet shoppers’ PHOTO BY DAVID TURNER By Rosemary Feitelberg both here and abroad.” appetites for the bracelets, earrings and necklaces that will arrive in stores next month. In a statement, Feldenkreis NEW YORK — Rachel Barnett, said, “Rachel has an impressive TAKE TWO: Kenny Bonavitacola is already planning his close-up for the launch of his signature ready-to-wear collection. a former top executive at Oscar reputation for creating, building The designer is at work on a short film about his career that will be shown before his fashion show in February. Snippets de la Renta, has joined Perry and expanding a fashion brand. of his favorite flicks — including “What a Way to Go” and “Bye Bye Birdie” — will be featured in the short. He’s even Ellis International as president She comes to Perry Ellis at a designed a little black dress called “Butterfield 8,” an ode to Elizabeth Taylor. In January, Bonavitacola stepped down as of licensing. time of extraordinary energy design director at BILL Bill Blass, the licensed bridge-priced dress collection division of BBS International. Earlier this month, Barnett and growth. Outstanding oppor- left de la Renta after the design- tunities are presenting them- DOUBLE AGENT: If David Yurman displays have seemed, well, as gripping as a blockbuster thriller in recent months, it’s er’s son-in-law, Alex Bolen, was selves for our Hispanic, luxury because they probably were — with a little help from senior director of visual services Scott Murphy. Murphy, who named chief executive officer. and niche brands, as well as our joined Yurman last December, has just received an Emmy nomination for outstanding art direction for “The Barnett had been with the com- marquee Perry Ellis label.” Sopranos.” He has a strong movie background, having worked on “Spider-Man,” “Men In Black,” “The Sixth Sense” pany for nine years, most recent- A few leading designers and “Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind.” At Yurman, Murphy is in charge of the visual presentation at both the ly as senior vice president and have been recruited to work on company’s boutiques and wholesale accounts, and he has also been overseeing the design for trade shows and show- chief operating officer. Perry Ellis collections. William rooms, packaging and product visual display. In her new role, Barnett will Calvert worked on Perry Ellis oversee Perry Ellis’ roster of and Perry Ellis Portfolio outer- brands with an emphasis on wear, which is licensed to the expanding into new product Montreal-based Utex Fashion categories and new markets. Group and debuts this fall. Perry Ellis, a $505.9 million Earlier this month, it was Guess Makes Return to Black operation, has more than 100 reported Perry Ellis is trying to licensees worldwide including hire designer Patrick Robinson NEW YORK — Rising sales across all three of its gle-digit increase, while the licensing group expe- its signature label, Jantzen, from its better sportswear business segments in the second quarter helped rienced a 22 percent boost to $9.6 million from Munsingwear and Cubaveera. licensee, Public Clothing Co., Guess Inc. swing to a profit from a loss in the year- $7.9 million. When she starts at Perry and to launch its own women’s ago period. The strength of retail carried over into re- Ellis on Monday, Barnett will be collection business. Robinson For the quarter ended June 26, the Los sults for the first six months, as well, helping based in its New York office and is said to be interested in giv- Angeles-based denim designer and retailer drive earnings to $2.9 million, or 6 cents a share, will report to George ing the collection more of an recorded earnings of $2.1 million, or 5 cents a di- compared with a loss of $11.2 million, or 26 Feldenkreis, chairman and ceo. edge. PEI’s proposition would luted share, besting Wall Street’s consensus esti- cents, in the same period a year ago. Reached Thursday, Barnett allow him to do that, while mate of 1 cent. Comparatively, the company re- Sales increased 13.6 percent to $307.4 million said, “The move to PEI is a enabling Public Clothing to ported a loss of $5.4 million, or 13 cents, in the from $270.6 million. Retail sales rose 19.8 percent wonderful opportunity for me keep producing a more main- year-ago period. to $214.8 million from $179.3 million, followed by to leverage my strengths in stream collection in the better Sales jumped 17.6 percent to $154.1 million a 9.6 percent gain to $20.5 million from $18.7 mil- licensing in domestic and market with Robinson’s guid- from $131 million. The company’s 264-unit retail lion in the licensing group. Sales in the wholesale international markets. The ance. operation led the way, posting a 20.5 percent in- division remained essentially flat. diverse portfolio of brands at Also this month, Public crease to $115.2 million from $95.7 million. According to management, the retail trend PEI, which occupies all chan- Clothing appointed Wendy According to the company, comparable-store shows no signs of slowing. For July, the company is nels of distribution, presents Chivian as president of its better sales rose 15.1 percent during the quarter. The expecting to announce comps in the midteen level. unique prospects for licensing women’s sportswear division. company’s wholesale segment posted a midsin- —Ross Tucker 4 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 30, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Boston Retail Bemoans the Dems

Continued from page one has inhabited its stately three-level Newbury Street demonstrated, the week the Democratic National store since the 1920s. Convention dominated this city was all about grabbing “We’re having a good week, but it could have gone attention whenever and however possible. either way,” said manager Kevin Moriarty. “We’ve done a But it was a time when attention didn’t always trans- lot with men who packed brown shoes with a black suit late into business. In a week when police often outnum- or had lost luggage.” bered commuters on local highways and chairs stayed Overbooked hotels couldn’t launder shirts in time and atop café tables, sales plunged for all but the best-locat- thus, the legendary men’s wear store also delivered ed and flashiest names in local retail. emergency replacements to hotels. “We have a good rela- The Boston press spent months detailing apocalyptic tionship with concierges and I think that also played in,” scenarios involving road closures and subway searches, Moriarty said. while Mayor Thomas M. Menino urged commuters to just Lilly Pulitzer’s In the Pink held its own, particularly plain leave town. It essentially left the city as one big among pink-and-green-obsessed visitors whose cities vacant playground. don’t have the concept, said store manager Chris Roy. “I Among those retailers that fared well were Chanel, think we’re doing a little better than average, but there which ferried outfits upstairs to Larry King’s suite and is no huge spike,” she said. other party-going guests staying at the Ritz Carlton, Lilly The store did get a couple of big names. Kathleen Pulitzer’s In the Pink on Newbury Street and legendary Kennedy Townsend, a Maryland delegate and member of off-pricer Filene’s Basement downtown. Delegates the Kennedy clan, brought her two daughters into Lilly. couldn’t pronounce the name, but warmed to the bar- “They both wore Lilly dresses to the [Rose Kennedy gains. Elizabeth Edwards purchased three outfits, Greenway] dedication,” Townsend said. “We thought it according to a Filene’s Basement spokeswoman. would be fun to take a stroll down Newbury.” Everyone else found easy parking spots on Newbury The trio then moved on to Starbucks, with nary a Street, the city’s main shopping boulevard that usually shopping bag in sight. functions at one lane because of double-parked Former president Bill Clinton leaving the Alpha Omega store. Mother-and-daughter or girlfriend shopping teams cars. Kerry ally and former Georgia Sen. Max seemed to be the most lucrative bets for shopkeepers. PHOTOS BY TALAYA CENTENO/DEMOCRATIC LOGO BY CORBIS BY LOGO CENTENO/DEMOCRATIC TALAYA PHOTOS BY Cleland, who addressed the convention Thursday At Intermix, New York-based Democratic fund-raiser night, disembarked from one of the chauffeured Hillary Clinton. Sunny Brownstein plunked down her credit card for black town cars waiting on the sidewalk in front “We worked a year ahead, Seven corduroys and several feminine tops from Stella of Ralph Lauren. really cultivating a relationship McCartney for her daughter Callae. The older Brownstein Generally this week, though, bored sales with the DNC,” added a restau- also treated herself to shoes at Neiman Marcus. staff in silent stores grew tired of mak- rant spokeswoman. The Sonia Rykiel store had a banner week, said man- ing conversation with each other. The The sales staff at Sigrid ager Jay Brasili. The store’s status as one of the brand’s retail doldrums in Boston were a wor- Election Olsen on Newbury Street wait- three units in the U.S., plus its location at upscale devel- risome harbinger for what might be ed patiently for the few opment Heritage on the Garden, adjacent to the Four the impact of the Republican National 2004 wardrobe queries that came Seasons hotel, meant affluent visitors from California Convention on New York in late their way. “No one seems to and elsewhere flocked in. August, when much of Midtown is expected to be shut know what to wear to Louis,” “We were much better off with the DNC in town,” down or disrupted by security around the convention and said staffer Lindy Backus, referring to a Hollywood- Brasili said. massive protests are planned by anti-Bush demonstrators. heavy fete the iconic retailer hosted Wednesday evening. Mary Alice Palacios, a Texas delegate, dropped $800 at As a Boston cab driver quipped of the DNC’s impact: By then, Backus had sold evening bags and a few quilted Filene’s Basement, scooping up BCBG, Ellen Tracy and “The last time it was this quiet in this town, they were silk jackets to be tossed over little black dresses. Anne Klein merchandise. Her girlfriend and fellow dele- driving horse-and-buggies.” “It’s been a lot quieter than we thought it would be,” gate Otilia Gonzales dropped $200 on hats and lingerie. “Democrats are for small business, but unfortunately she added. “I feel bad for the retailers who brought in They were the delegates the city had long dreamed the small businesses got crushed,” said chef Michael extra merchandise. Some of the national chains drew about — planning a whole week’s worth of seafood tasting, Schlow, whose restaurant group hosted everything from inventory from their other stores in the region.” harbor cruises and yet more shopping. Unfortunately, there the Dakota states’ reception to a CNBC luncheon for Lost luggage was a boon to Brooks Brothers, which were just too few of them to go around.

Delegates awaiting the speech by Sen. The Buzz Around Boston John Edwards. THE MOODS OF MS. PARKER: Sarah great job of adopting those messages.” Jessica Parker is getting to be a quick- “I’m from Memphis,” said Bill change artist par excellence. Aside from Clinton’s former special trade represen- those costume-change-intensive awards tative Paula Stern, who sits on the boards show host gigs, Parker wore three differ- of Neiman Marcus and Avon. “The ent outfits during an AOL-sponsored cock- Democrats win when we can appeal to tail reception for New York Sen. Charles males who identify themselves as white Schumer at Spire restaurant Wednesday Southerners, whether they’re from night at trendy boutique hotel Nine Zero. southern Ohio or South Carolina. What’s While exact details about designer left for Kerry is to show strength over Alyssa Milano affiliation were unavailable at the hush- how to better manage our economy.” at the Louis hush event, Parker arrived with hus- Iowa Sen. Tom Harkin said, “He laid Boston party. PHOTO BY ALEX BERLINER/BERLINER STUDIO/BEIMAGES PHOTO BY band, Matthew Broderick, apparently down some pretty specific points and I CENTENO TALAYA PHOTO BY channeling Chanel in a tweed jacket, think that’s what people want to hear. Most RUBBER DUCKIES: Billy Baldwin, Alyssa we’re thinking of you, too.” jeans, flats and oversized black sunglass- people don’t think about international trade Milano, Bianca Jagger, Wendie Malick, Ben Affleck and Leonardo DiCaprio es. She moved on to a familiar fashion every day, but they do think about what they Creative Coalition president Tony snuck in a side entrance at Louis, dissing role, opting for a fluffy pink skirt and tan earn, they think about health care.” Goldwyn, Alfre Woodard and Jerry Stiller press and the starstruck guests who’d suede heels, à la her “Sex and the City” Vermont Sen. Patrick Leahy took spe- made their way up a laminated orange paid $1,000 a ticket. persona, Carrie Bradshaw. cial note of Edwards’ comments on the runway Wednesday night at the Creative Always fashionably appropriate, she need for raising the minimum wage. “He Coalition party, hosted by Louis Boston INNER CIRCLE: Wearing an ivory bias- changed again — this time to a T-shirt went into far more detail than normally and sponsored by the Recording Industry cut jacket over a floating skirt, Teresa emblazoned with “John John” and a rhine- they do on this. Usually, you have the Association of America. Later, the Heinz Kerry sparkled as she bestowed stone American flag brooch — before leav- vice presidential candidate come out Hollywood activists joined the Red Hot kisses and hugs on her nearest and dear- ing for a skybox at the Fleet Center to and tear the heads off the other guy, and Chili Peppers on stage and took scripted est at an early evening reception watch Sen. John Edwards’ speech. I’m sure the temptation was there after turns spouting Mark Twain, Ralph Waldo Wednesday night at Mistral restaurant. all the negative ads that the Bush and Emerson and the First Amendment. Boston allies Bob Crowe, finance vice RATING EDWARDS: Speaking of Edwards’ Cheney team have run against both John Guests mingled amid a Willy Wonka- chairman of the Democratic National speech, the reaction was mostly positive Edwards and John Kerry.” esque landscape of tall vials of orange and Committee, and real estate investor Jack among the party faithful. California dele- Actor-director Rob Reiner said he had yellow water, lucite disks and rubber Manning, hosted the dinner in the sun- gate Mabel Teng craved specifics on how no problem with Edwards’ proposal to tax duckies. The motif became a little too flower-strewn French restaurant, one of the Kerry-Edwards team would retain U.S. those in the top income brackets, like him- apropos when a sodden rain pushed the Kerry couple’s favorite haunts. manufacturing jobs. “The government self, to pay for better social programs. guests under tents, though some scurried Heinz Kerry lingered for two hours, tak- needs to reinvest in the manufacturing “Usually these kinds of speeches are full of for orange and yellow umbrellas Rafanelli ing a brief turn with a microphone to community,” she said. “It’s been seen tra- buzzwords and catch phrases, but Edwards Events had planted lollipop-style. remind those in the room that the national ditionally as a low-value sector, but we’ve discussed specifics, building American The woman of the hour, Louis Boston audience would respond to her husband's got to make it a more productive, high- jobs, improving education,” said Reiner. owner Debi Greenberg, didn’t forget that sincerity and loyalty, qualities she said old value proposition.” “He’s right when he says people who earn half the city — those who didn’t leave friends gathered in the room already rec- Ohio delegate Jack Landskroner said, the minimum wage and have to struggle to town — had been slavering outside the ognized. Those in the room, rumored to be “This whole convention is a continuation make ends meet is not fair, and he store’s gates since the first sound check, benefactors in the $200,000 and up league, of the theme John [Edwards] has been answered how we’re going to pay for it. He at 3 p.m. that afternoon. “Hello Boston,” already hold Kerry in pretty close company. preaching all along. Kerry’s just done a said the top 2 percent can pay for things.” she whooped. “Everyone back there, — Katherine Bowers and Susan Watters WWDBEAUTYBIZ

Next Issue: September Reach more of the people Close: August 3 you need to with the only • Fall Launches magazine that puts the • Top 75 Global Beauty Companies industry into perspective. • A Closer Look: Fragrance • The “It” List: Hair and Makeup Agencies PHOTOS BY BEN BAKER AND MICHAEL MYERS PHOTOS BY For more information, contact Sarah Murphy, publisher WWDBeauty Biz, at 212/630-4656, or your WWD sales representative. 6 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 30, 2004 The Beauty Report Versace Aims for a Fragrance Hit

By Stephanie Epiro house it is as if a part of me is missing and I think it’s the same for a lot of women,” she said. LAKE COMO, Italy — Versace is aiming to launch Crystal Noir was created with characteristics the best-selling fragrance in its history with the that Donatella described as close to her heart. October debut of Crystal Noir, a women’s scent The bottle, shaped in dark violet jewel-cut glass, that industry sources say could do $40 million at features a heavy cap that looks like a large, black retail its first year. diamond. Made of heavy garnet glass, the bottle Moreover, the timing is critical. The parent was designed by Donatella in conjunction with Versace Group reportedly is near closing a deal A/R Media and Tino Valentinitsch, and was in- to license its beauty business, Giver Profumi, spired by the facets of a diamond. The fra- which now generates an estimated $90 mil- grance is meant to capture the essence of the lion. Reports have been circulating that a fashion label’s couture line Versace Atelier. In European beauty player, reportedly Inter contrast to the bottle’s dark exterior, the juice Parfums, is on the verge of striking a deal. is clear. Donatella said she deliberately de- The importance of the fragrance project signed the bottle this way. was underscored by the fact that the new “I feel so strongly about this new fragrance initiative was unveiled recently at the and wanted to create a bottle that looked like a Versace villa on Lake Como. timeless jewel bottle when sitting out, but at Over a dinner served in Versace’s Villa the same time with the surprise of a light fra- Fontanelle’s garden, overlooking Lake grance inside,” said Donatella. Como, chairman Santo Versace said the Boasting two main ingredients — gardenia villa, which his late brother Gianni Versace and amber — the fragrance’s juice was an idea considered his principal home, was where born out of earlier Versace fragrance creations. the company unveiled its first women’s scent, “I’ve been working with tuberose notes for Gianni Versace, in 1981. my last several fragrances and I wanted to ex- The new fragrance was presented after din- pand the collection with a softer and lighter

ner by three dancers while fireworks spelled out offering. I’ve become infatuated with the flo- JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY Crystal Noir. The fragrance was created as a re- ral sweetness of the gardenia and in usual for- The bottle. sult of the vision of Donatella Versace. “I’ve mat for me, I wanted to add a strong note of had a passion for fragrance as long as I can amber to balance the gentleness of the garde- remember,” said the designer, who owns nia, giving it a surprise,” said Donatella. hundreds of bottles. “I’ve spent hours at fra- The formula was created at Givaudan by grance counters around the world. I collect perfumer Antoine Lie. The fragrance has them all, from parfums to essential oils to no projected age target, according to scented moisturizers. It’s my most per- Donatella. “The scent is light enough to be sonal expression. But I like to change my worn during the day by younger women as fragrance constantly. I love to mix and well as by women who want to feel glam- layer multiple scents based on my mood, orous and sensual in the evening,” she said. the weather, an event I’m going to, what I’m Director of Giver Profumi Ferdinando wearing, anything. Some people know a lot Silva Coronel said, “This fragrance repre- about cooking, some know a lot about sents a new direction in the women’s fra- gardening. I’m an expert with fragrance grance world. I feel that it doesn’t only rep- and I love them,” said Donatella. resent a new proposal, according to the lat- The interview was conducted via est trends, but will represent also some- e-mail about two weeks ago, well before thing absolutely new that will, without the fashion house acknowledged that question, surpass the success of our exist- The ad. the designer had gone into rehab for ing fragrances.” issues related to substance abuse. A print campaign for the fragrance, fea- 400 of them in the U.S., including Neiman Marcus, Famous for her appearance, Dona- Donatella Versace turing model Isabeli Fontana and shot by Nordstrom, Parisian, Macy’s and Sephora. tella said that choosing a fragrance in photographer Steven Meisel, will run in The fragrance will sell in two eau de parfum sizes: 50 the morning was the most involved part of getting dressed. magazines accompanying the launch. The fragrance ml. for $70 and 100 ml. for $90. An accompanying bath and “If I don’t wear fragrance before walking out of my will be rolled out in 11,800 points of sale worldwide, shower gel will retail for $35 and a body lotion for $40. Clarins Posts 12.8% Hike in 2nd-Qtr. Net Sales

PARIS — Due to strong sales in its beauty busi- the company said in the statement. ness, France’s Groupe Clarins said Thursday By activity in the first half, Clarins’ beauty di- that second-quarter net sales rose 12.8 percent vision rang up sales of 296.2 million euros, or to 221.9 million euros, or $267.4 million. $363.9 million, up 6.4 percent, and its fragrance On a like-for-like basis sales climbed 14 per- business generated 140.7 million euros, or $172.8 cent. Dollar figures are at the average exchange million, up 0.9 percent. On a like-for-like basis, rate for the period. those figures would have been up 8.8 percent The company’s skin care business grew 11.9 and 5.9 percent, respectively. percent at constant exchange, thanks, in part, to By geographic zone, Clarins’ sales were up 2.9 the launch of Super Restorative, a line for mature percent in Europe to 275.5 million euros, or $338.3 skin, and the introduction of additional Clarins million; up 2.4 percent in North America to 95.9 The company’s skin care business grew 11.9 percent at constant exchange, thanks, in part, to the launch of Super Restorative.

Men products, the firm said in a statement. million euros, or $117.8 million; up 19.8 percent in For the first half of 2004, the company’s sales Asia to 37.4 million euros, or $45.9 million, and up were up 4.6 percent to 436.9 million euros or 11.7 percent in “other countries” to 28.1 million $536.4 million. At constant exchange, they in- euros, or $34.5 million. On a like-for-like basis, creased 7.8 percent. those sales were up 2.8 percent, 13.2 percent, 27.7 Clarins reconfirmed its forecast of attaining percent and 16.4 percent, respectively. a 5 percent sales hike at constant exchange for Clarins will report interim results Sept. 9, the full year. after the close of the Paris Bourse. “The operating profit should progress faster Clarins will celebrate its 50th birthday and its than sales as a result of a buoyant activity en- 20 years as a listed company in October with a abling an optimization of fixed costs and a cau- bonus issue of one new share for five old ones. tious spending policy in commercial expenses,” — Brid Costello WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 30, 2004 7

Lancôme Takes It All Off A Chocolate Fix for Origins By Julie Naughton NEW YORK — Chocoholics are about to get a whole new form of therapy. NEW YORK — Lancôme plans to make the face peel a common commodity in mainstream de- In November, Origins will partment store life this October, with its Resurface Peel Restructuring and Soothing System. launch the Cocoa Therapy Once only known inside dermatologists’ offices, procedures involving facial skin-resurfac- collection, the first new ing chemicals have been steadily moving into retail. And thanks to the cachet of derm-de- line unveiled since Daria signed retail skin care lines — a trend that seems to be taking on the prominence that make- Myers, senior vice presi- up artist-designed color cosmetics lines enjoyed in the early Nineties — getting a real peel at dent and general manag- home is getting more accessible than ever. er, rejoined the brand. And it’s not just for the well-heeled: As reported, L’Oréal Paris this month launched its own take The collection is also a on the be-a-derm-at-home trend, ReFinish Micro-Dermabrasion Kit, a $24.99 product that claims to nod to the brand’s her- use the same types of fine crystals in its formula as those that are used in a dermatologist’s office. itage, which largely Cocoa Therapy bath and body items. At the upper end of the market, Prescriptives’ Dermapolish has selected specialty and de- focused on wellness partment store distribution, and DermaNew’s lineup of products are sold in Ulta and on and the use of essential oils and other natural ingredients. Home Shopping Network, among other venues; both are said to be doing strong business. This mission is of key importance to Myers, who was a founding mem- Lancôme, however, is set to offer perhaps the most widely distributed, department store do- ber of the brand’s team. “The purpose is to harness the healthful benefits it-yourself derm line with its new system, which is being touted as an at-home glycolic peel. It is of the cocoa bean for skin and body care,” said Myers. “They are serious also the first product to be developed with the guidance of Dr. Tina Alster, the Washington- products because they have the health benefits and essential oil of the based dermatologist and Georgetown University clinical professor who is a consultant for cocoa bean in them. In fact, we use almost every part of the cocoa bean Lancôme. In the U.S., the kit will be available in about 2,200 department and specialty store plant in our products. We thought it would have a very innate appeal.” doors, and industry sources estimate that the $145 kit could ring up sales of $25 million at retail The Cocoa Therapy Body Care collection consists of five bath and in the U.S. in its first year on counter. It is slated to hit doors in Europe and Asia by yearend. body products that contain ingredients such as theobroma cacao, vanil- “This is a preview of the future of Lancôme’s skin care business,” said Odile Roujol, Lancôme’s la, lemon, orange and ginger. The lineup includes Deeply Nourishing deputy general manager Body Butter, a rich cream intended to enhance the skin’s moisture barri- and senior vice president er to combat dryness that will retail for $27.50 for an 8-oz. jar; a salve of marketing, noting that called Total Body Treat, $28.50 for 4.4 oz.; Energy-Boosting Body Bar, $10 “the U.S. market is very for 5 oz., Body-Buffing Scrub, which contains walnut shells and apricot educated and very savvy seeds to smooth skin, priced at $25 for 8 oz., and Instant Chocolate Fix, a about skin care.” The kit cocoa elixir complete with a roller ball applicator, 0.24 oz. for $13.50. includes an 8 percent gly- “The primary focus for us in each product was reaping the benefits colic acid peel along with a of the cocoa pod and supplementing it with other natural oils, butters 5 percent physio-peel en- or vitamins that would be nutritious to the skin,” said Lynn Mazzella, hancer — which, the doc- vice president of global product development. tor contends, offers a pro- There will also be seven edible items in the form of dark chocolate bars fessional-grade glycolic and hot chocolate developed by renowned chocolatier Jacques Torres, fre- peel without the accompa- quently referred to as “Mr. Chocolate.” This marks the start of the brand’s nying skin irritation. The guest editor program, in which it will associate with celebrities in different physio-peel enhancer, areas in a bid to attract younger customers. The Sensory Therapy which is said to boost the Chocolates will retail for $5 each and contain a blend of essential oils such effects of the glycolic acid, as mandarin, sweet orange, thyme, ginger, peppermint and basil and are for- is proprietary to Lancôme. mulated — and named — to address the customers’ needs: To Help Sweeten Critics may ask if the Your Sleep, To Help Relax You, To Help Rev You Up, To Help Brighten rise of these products is Your Spirits and To Help Settle Your “Too Full” Tummy. In addition there is akin to an at-home chem- Sensory Therapy Hot Chocolate Original and Sensory Therapy Hot istry experiment with Lancôme’s Resurface Peel ad. Chocolate To Help Boost Your Well-Being With Lemon, Clove and Thyme. one’s face. Like other Each is $16 for a 16-oz. container, which offers about eight to 10 servings. beauty treatments, home “We were intrigued by the idea of taking essential oils — which are dermabrasion and face This is a preview of the future of the basis for all of our products — and putting them into chocolate,” peel kits are considered noted Myers. “They are so potent that you can actually ingest them and cosmetics by regulators at “Lancôme’s skin care business. have a positive benefit from them.” the Food and Drug Ad- The packaging was designed to “replicate the feeling of food and ministration. Unlike drugs, — Odile Roujol,” Lancôme specialty food packaging,” said Anelle Miller, senior vice president of cosmetics don’t require creative for Origins. “It needed to be special and fresh and it was very pre-market approval as important that it really married with the rest of the line so that it works long as they don’t contain regulated pharmaceutical ingredients. These legal ground rules have well together when merchandised in-store.” been in place since 1938, which means the agency doesn’t determine the safety of cosmetics. While company executives would not discuss sales projections, in- However, after a product is on the market, the agency can order a cosmetics item off the dustry sources estimated that the Cocoa Therapy collection could gen- shelves if it causes injury or its advertising or packaging touts product’s ability to change the erate in excess of $12 million at retail in the first year on counter and “structure or function” of the body. As a result, most companies are exceptionally careful in that about $1 million would be spent on advertising and promotion. how they state their claims. The launch will be promoted via co-op advertising and radio as well The agency has been monitoring the growing market for do-it-yourself face peels and der- as by sampling with approximately 200,000 samples of the Deeply mabrasion products for structure or function claims since they burst on the mass market in Nourishing Body Butter and 250,000 samples of the Sensory Therapy the early Nineties, said Allen Halper, senior compliance officer with the FDA’s Office of Chocolate, To Help Brighten Your Spirits. Joellen Bradford, vice presi- Cosmetics and Color. To that end, last year the separate FDA divisions responsible for cosmet- dent of global marketing for Origins noted that the brand will “have a big ics and drug oversight decided to share information to keep better tabs on whether such “cos- holiday catalogue this year and the cover and focus will be the Cocoa meceuticals” — what regulators call cosmetics like face peels that perform quasi-medical Therapy launch and collection. We are launching it around the holiday tasks — are crossing the legal line. time, which is a great time for chocolate.” There will also be in-store But Alan Meyers, senior vice president of research and development for L’Oréal USA, in- support such as posters, counter cards and brochures emphasizing “the sists that while the kit is intended to mimic the effects of doctor-provided treatments — deal- folklore and some of the modern scientific benefits of chocolate.” ing with blotchy skin, fine lines and large pores — the products are calibrated in a way that The collection will be available in the brand’s 425 department store make it hard for consumers to go too far astray. The cornerstone of Lancôme’s system is a low- doors and its 125 freestanding stores. “I pH glycolic acid which is said to have the lowest possible pH level allowed in over-the-counter think this indicates that we are taking an products. The low pH is the key to effectiveness, Meyers said, adding that while glycolic acid audacious step by introducing a new is available in numerous over-the-counter skin care products, its benefits are negligible with- category [in all doors],” said Myers. “In out properly balanced pH levels. the past when we have done in- The kit has four components, which are packaged together as a kit. The first step, a towelette, gestibles, we’ve usually started them in is intended to remove surface oils from the skin. The second, Renewing Peel, is a solution that is our own stores. We have gotten such a brushed onto the face and left there for five minutes, bringing the skin’s pH level to 4.2 and “peel- The Cocoa good response to the chocolates and are ing” the dull outer layer of cells from the skin. In the third, soothing cloths remove the peel and Therapy willing to go all the way with them.” cleanse the remaining solution from the face. And the fourth, Comforting Cream, is intended to collection’s Origins is also available in some 16 calm any redness or irritation to the skin and helps restore the skin’s pH balance to a normal edible countries where the collection will level of 5.6. A head band to keep one’s hair out of the face during treatments is also included. offerings. begin rolling out in November. The system is designed to be used up to twice a week, and contains about eight uses — “a Myers said that Origins will take a bargain,” said Alster, “when you consider the average price of a chemical peel in a dermatolo- wait-and-see approach to determine if all gist’s office averages $150 to $250 per treatment.” five flavors will remain part of the perma- Roujol said she expects Resurface Peel’s target user to be a 30- to 50-year-old woman. nent collection and added that “Valentine’s National print advertising breaks in October fashion, beauty and lifestyle books, and radio Day is a wonderful opportunity to expand this featuring Alster will also be a part of the brand’s promotional plans. Roujol wouldn’t comment line. There are still other areas that can bene- on budgets, although industry sources estimated that at least $8 million would be spent on ad- fit from these cocoa bean health benefits.” vertising and promotion in the U.S. during the product’s first year on counter. —Kristin Finn

— With contributions from Joanna Ramey, Washington MITRA ROBERT PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 30, 2004 The Beauty Report

Milani’s Glitter Glamour Duo. Sara Delach of Paris Presents. Stanley Acker of Cosmetic 2K.

Shawn Haynes of Markwins Beauty Products. ECRM Spotlights Innovation PHOTOS BROOKMAN FAYE BY

By Faye Brookman and Molly Prior the City” star Kristin Davis as its new celebrity spokes- Mexico. Flawless Leggs will compete against Sally woman, has an aggressive lineup of new products slated Hansen’s already established Airbrush Legs. HOLLYWOOD, Fla. — Despite following on the heels of for the first half of 2005. The beauty brand took the Del Laboratories’ Sally Hansen brand continues to two major industry trade shows — NACDS’ Marketplace wraps off its new anti-age foundation called Instant Age expand its Airbrush franchise, which currently includes in late June and Cosmoprof North America held last Rewind, a silk extract and caffeine-infused formula that Fast & Flawless Airbrush Makeup and Airbrush Legs. week — the Efficient Customer Response Management promises to make wearers look 10 years younger. The New entries for 2005 will include Airbrush Sun, self-tan- meeting continued to carve out its distinct niche in the brand is revamping its blush offering, creating blush ning sprays for the face and body. Airbrush Sun will allow industry’s overscheduled calendar. duos and trading in its cobalt blue packaging for a more women to apply self-tanner without having to rub it in, The Cosmetics Conference held here at the Westin upscale-looking silver case. explained Harvey Alstodt, executive vice president of Diplomat Resort & Spa, July 25-28, drew a gaggle of cos- Also on display was Shiny Licious lip gloss featuring sales for Del Labs. Tina Bornstein and Tony Gill, the metics and cosmetic accessories manufacturers, all of a flocked doe-foot applicator for $5.99; Wet Shine Color founders of Tony & Tina, the edgy, New Age cosmetics whom will compete for space along the cosmetics wall. A Boost, lip color that shines like Wet Shine but imparts brand sold in prestige and specialty retailers, linked up bulging exhibitor list prompted show planners to once an extra dose of pigment for $6.75, and Express Finish with Wella executives to present their concept for a color again add on a Power Hall, a room filled with nearly 20 ven- Advanced Wear nail color in a new antichip formula. cosmetics collection for the mass channel. According to dors where meetings were cut in half from the standard 20 The ECRM show also attracted several newcomers retailers, the line, reportedly called Love Color, is only in minutes to 10. The shortened meetings in the Power Hall this year, all hoping to make inroads into the mass cos- the conceptual stages. Should the line come to fruition, allowed ECRM to accommodate last-minute attendees metics industry. price points will hover in the $6-$7 range. without overloading retailers’ schedules, said Intercos, a cosmetics manufacturer based ECRM chief executive officer Charles Bowlus. in Italy, seeks to inject a shot of high fashion Seventy retailers attended the confer- into the category with a new color cosmetics ence, up from 50 last year, said Bowlus. He collection featuring the Elite name of mod- attributed the large turnout to the industry’s eling fame. Achim Ruehlemann, executive efforts to shake up beauty sales. director of sales, showed the sleek-looking ECRM also outfitted many buyers and line, which managed to draw the attention suppliers with wireless laptop computers. from numerous retailers at the show. The computers were equipped with ECRM’s Ruehlemann is shopping the 125-stockkeep- homegrown Efficient Program Planning ing-unit line to large retail chains. Application software, which helps auto- After taking a hiatus from the market, mate post-meeting follow-up: Attendees the children’s cosmetics brand Tinkerbell could type or handwrite notes into the per- is preparing for a comeback. Isaac Gindi of sonal computers and transmit information Icebox Inc. plans to give Tinkerbell a to headquarters. makeover, adding a slew of bells and whis- The high tech buying process matched tles to the line such as glitter, and send it the product innovation unleashed at the back into the market by spring 2005. show, such as new multicultural beauty Existing cosmetics lines will get some lines, sophisticated foundations and items retooling as well. With “crosscultural” as once found only in upscale venues. the new buzzword in beauty, many suppli- Bringing class to mass remains a mantra ers talked of the need to make their brands in the business. However, aside from some more inclusive. of the more progressive players, most retail- Retailers and manufacturers have long ers in the mass channel have done little to talked about reaching multicultural con- spotlight their masstige offering or to make sumers. And, while beauty lines for women shopping their stores more pleasant. That is of varying complexions have been available, changing as a handful of chains, such as most chains have only scratched the surface CVS and Brooks Pharmacy, implement new in presenting these products. Thanks to con- fixturing and graphics to impart a more sumer information produced by frequent- upscale ambience. Walgreens and Harmon shopper programs and other avenues, mer- also continue to tweak the beauty look to chants are on the brink of drilling down to reflect a new breed of merchandise once Cosmetic leg spray Flawless Leggs will launch in CVS stores. store level. “Retailers finally have a better only found in tony doors. handle on customers in each store,” said Even in the wake of NACDS Marketplace and Air Stocking, the Japanese leg spray, was on hand to Marc Orlinsky, vice president of sales of Prestige Cosmoprof North America, vendors had plenty of new introduce a smaller version to mass retailers and chain Cosmetics. “And, as a supplier we are working more with product programs and promotional plans to share. drugstores. After a successful debut in Japan in early chains to determine what to put in different stores.” Jane Cosmetics unveiled a new promotional program 2003, the $28 spray-on hosiery launched in the U.S., Prestige Cosmetics is proving its commitment to con- for 2005 intended to showcase the brand’s dynamic per- rolling out to high-end department stores in March 2004. sumers of all ethnicities by repositioning its entire line as sonality and reflect seasonal fashion trends. Baby Jane As it did in Japan, the company has outlined a three- a multi-cultural brand. To that end, Prestige has created and G.I. Jane, both prepack collections featuring items stage launch strategy for the U.S. market. The first stage a new foundation collection. The formula was created to such as quad eye shadows, lipsticks, nail polishes and eye- rolls out to department stores, the second includes truly match each user’s skin tones and to avoid produc- liner, will hit stores this January. Two more collections, midtier retailers such as Kohl’s and J.C. Penney and the ing an ashy look on dark skin tones. Since different Mary Jane and Jungle Jane, will follow in March 2005. third hits the mass channel. women prefer varying formulations, the collection Markwins Beauty Products aims to add muscle to its The $14.99 mass version that nets 10 to 12 applica- includes cream to powder, wet to dry, loose and pressed Wet ’n’ Wild brand with an increased advertising budg- tions, called Flawless Leggs, will hit CVS stores in power, and a liquid formula for a total of 40 sku’s priced et in 2005 of $5 million, up from this year’s allotted $3 August. The drugstore chain will have an exclusive win- at $6.95. Prestige will introduce the revamped brand with million. Wet ’n’ Wild has also set its sights on Hollywood. dow on the product until June 2005. The company antic- a dramatic new fixture, which will expand the company’s In its first movie tie-in, the brand is working on a cos- ipates mass retailers will do as many department stores square footage anywhere from one to two feet. To edu- metics promotion for 2005 dubbed The Perfect have done and merchandise Flawless Leggs in both cate shoppers on the new line, Prestige plans in-store Cosmetics Collection for the film “The Perfect Man,” their hosiery and beauty departments, said Tracy sampling and demonstrations. starring Hilary Duff and Heather Locklear. Holland, vice president of sales and marketing, Belline The strategy certainly has worked for Milani cosmet- Maybelline New York, which just recruited “Sex and USA, the distributor of the Air Stocking in the USA and ics. After repositioning itself as a crosscultural cosmet- WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 30, 2004 9

WWW.WWD.COM ics line several years ago, the brand has gained in- bracelet and dry oil bronzers. line space at major retail accounts, such as With extreme value stores still growing at a Walgreens, CVS and Target. healthy clip, Jean Philippe introduced a new Aziza Del Sees Earnings Tumble The line is performing so well, according to line for younger consumers. “Many women still Robert Wallner, vice president of sales, that it will know the Aziza name,” said Wayne Hamerling, exec- NEW YORK — Costs associated with consolidating produc- receive more real estate in many planograms for utive vice president. “But we wanted to introduce it tion facilities continued to impact earnings for recently ac- 2005. The company is adding gift sets for holiday to 10- to 25-year-olds.” The result is Aziza Rocks, hip- quired Del Laboratories Inc. in the second quarter. and has expanded the offer to 29 categories. One per sister to Aziza, also sold only to dollar stores. “We continued to experience high manufacturing costs as major drugstore chain reported a sales increase of Nail care remains a category retailers are we recover from the first-quarter start-up production prob- 30 percent during a four-week period. tweaking to offset declining artificial nail sales, lems,” said Dan K. Wassong, chairman, president and chief Another line targeted at women of all ethnic with many category managers looking to imple- executive officer, in a statement. The company’s decision to backgrounds is Uptown Visions from Cosmetic 2K. ments and nail treatments for growth. Paris relocate manufacturing operations from New York to Rocky Company founder Stanley Acker, who also created Presents continues to get more shelf space with its Point, N.C., has hampered results since the first quarter. Wet ’n’ Wild and Black Radiance, attended the meet- whimsical Ms. Manicure collection and expanding For the three months ended June 30, the Uniondale, N.Y.- ing to promote Uptown Visions as well as a budget Ms. franchise across a series of product categories. based cosmetics manufacturer saw earnings tumble 23.9 per- line called Hugs & Kisses. According to Acker, Calico has found a niche by. promoting nail care cent to $3.8 million, or 36 cents a diluted share, compared Uptown Visions is expanding its distribution in health with its antifungal cosmetics removers. with earnings of $4.9 million, or 49 cents, in the year-ago pe- drugstores, while Hugs & Kisses is getting attention Myra Solomon of SMS Labs showed a clever riod, while sales for the period advanced 5.1 percent to from alternative outlets such as convenience stores. Remover Pencil perfect for cleaning up messy $102.9 million from $98 million. His former brands, now owned by Markwins manicure applications, with a padded cuticle Effects of the move and the slow pace of getting new opera- Beauty Products, are also flourishing. According pusher. Jessica, a name made famous by a salon in tions up and running had an even greater impact on results for to Shawn Haynes, vice president sales and mar- Beverly Hills, continues to gain retail space for the first half of the year, sending earnings plunging 52.1 per- keting, Wet ’n’ Wild sales are exploding. And, new treatment and for color. Reacting to market trends, cent to $4.4 million, or 43 cents a share, compared with earn- packaging for Black Radiance is helping restore the company showed natural gels and tints that ings of $9.3 million, or 93 cents, in the same period a year ago. the luster to that line, which is aimed at African- can be applied to natural nails. The company also Sales declined 2.8 percent to $186 million from $191.3 million. American women. The next step is to revamp introduced Bend Don’t Break, a new nail strength- On July 2, the company announced it had reached an Tropez to focus on its Latin positioning. ener that improves flexibility. agreement to be acquired by DLI Holding Corp. for $465 mil- While many vendors are cautious not to empha- High-margin battery-operated appliances, lion. Under terms of the deal, which is expected to close size the word “teen,” several are making sure especially nail buffers and heated eyelash curlers sometime during the fourth quarter, DLI will offer $385 mil- they’ve got the young, hip demographic covered. from W.E. Bassett, are getting more attention from lion in cash and assume approximately $80 million in debt. After delighting the younger set with its drugstores. Bassett is also adding off-shelf fixtur- As part of the merger, Wassong will retire and be replaced American Idol fragrance, Beauty Innovations is ing for chains to promote men’s grooming tools. by current executive vice president of marketing William building a franchise with the introduction of a The makeup applicator and remover business is McMenemy. color cosmetics collection. Although products also growing, thanks to robust gross margins. U.S. —Ross Tucker within the collection are not finalized, they could Cotton displayed products that offer exfoliating and include lipstick sets with bold packaging featuring smoothing. A new company called Jean Pierre also images of contestants from the TV show. introduced less expensive exfoliating offerings. The quintessential teen brand Caboodles is also In brushes, CVS will add an elegant collection undergoing a revival and returning to its roots as a under its exclusive Lumene brand retailing for up resource for innovation. In addition to reinstating to $15. The brushes, which will be merchandised advertising, the company has a roster chock full of alongside Lumene cosmetics, will launch this fall. IFF Profits Rise in 2nd Qtr. new items including metallic tattoos, body jewelry America’s obsession with order has been a and a Kaleidoscope lip palette. To promote sun boost to Caboodles, especially for a collection NEW YORK — Strong sales and a weak dollar boosted safety to young girls, the brand has also created an called Crystal Clear, a line of cosmetics organizers. International Flavors & Fragrances second-quarter earnings Active Girl promotional pre-pack, full of fun, SPF- “There are people passionate about organization,” by 9 percent. infused products, such as a lip gloss charm said Ernie Lippmann, vice president of sales. Net income for the New York-based fragrance and flavor producer was $56.5 million, or 59 cents per share, compared with $51.4 million, or 54 cents, in the year-ago period, while sales increased 9 percent to $524.2 million from $482.6 million, buoyed by the strength of foreign currencies against the dollar. “Our results were mainly driven by new customer wins Art of Shaving to Launch Fragrance and strong demand for our core flavor and fragrance prod- ucts,” said chairman and chief executive officer Richard A. The Art of Goldstein in a statement. NEW YORK — Call it the art of scent. IFF’s net income for the six-month period rose 35 per- Shaving’s With the fall launch of its first fragrance, called Sandalwood cent compared with a year ago. The company expects earn- Eau de Toilette, men’s grooming marketer The Art of Shaving Sandalwood. ings per share for 2004 to range from $2.09 to $2.16, com- hopes to boost its total sales volume past $15 million this year. pared with $1.83 in 2003. “We’ve spent the first five years building the brand [by] focusing According to the company, IFF’s income would have in- on our market position,” stated co-founder Eric Malka, referring to creased 10 percent to 65 cents per share if not for $7.7 mil- the company’s formation eight years ago, growth of lion in restructuring and other charges. its wholesale operations and product line ex- IFF is expected to close in the third quarter on its sale of tensions — from its core shaving assortment German and Swiss fruit preparation businesses. Additionally, into skin care, hair care and face care. “I antic- IFF is closing its Canadian manufacturing facility and transfer- ipate the size of the business will triple in the ring production to New Jersey and Texas. next two years,” added Malka. Expansion of the — Carrie Melago firm’s wholesale and company-owned retail op- erations is expected to drive growth. As is the new fragrance, which is expected to bow in the company’s U.S. distribution net- Obituary work of more than 400 wholesale doors — and its five company-owned retail stores — in mid-September. Sandalwood could generate $1.2 million in first-year retail sales, accord- Services Planned for John Fling ing to industry estimates. The firm had been considering a stand- NEW YORK — A memorial service will be held on Aug. 2 for alone fragrance since the late- Nineties, ac- John Fling, a vice president of package design worldwide in cording to Cary Brown, vice president of mar- the Estée Lauder division of the Estée Lauder Cos. keting. “It was a matter of the company getting Fling died suddenly at home in the Jackson Heights section to the right footing in the market to launch it,” of Queens, N.Y., on Tuesday after a brief illness. He was 52. he said. Sandalwood is among the fragrances He had joined Lauder in 1995 after working for 18 years featured in the brand’s existing product as- as a top designer at Tiffany & Co., beginning in 1977. sortment and executives wanted to do a fra- Prior to beginning his career, Fling had received his un- grance as far back as the late-Nineties, he dergraduate college degree in fine arts and art history at the noted. Now, “we have a big customer base and University of South Florida. He pursued graduate studies in we could do it in such a way that retailers communications design at Pratt Institute. would get behind us,” he added. Janet Cook, president of Estée Lauder North America, The firm estimates that 50,000 men visit its said, “John was particularly gifted in capturing the style and freestanding stores annually. The Art of Shaving MITRA ROBERT PHOTO BY sophistication of the brand in its product design. He was an products are carried in about 200 specialty and department store doors — such as Neiman Marcus, Barneys inspiring colleague —and a wonderful friend — to all of us New York, Saks Fifth Avenue and Nordstrom — venues where men’s grooming is of increasing importance, who worked with him. He will be remembered for his gentle Brown contended. It’s carried in roughly the same number of apothecaries and men’s clothiers. nature, professionalism and passion for excellence.” Malka’s wife, Myriam Zaoui Malka, blended Sandalwood. Thanks to her training in aromatherapy He is survived by a brother, Edward; a sister-in-law, Anne, and Chinese and Ayurvedic medicine, she devised the scent’s olfactory accords of eucalyptus, jas- and their two children. mine, fir, sandalwood, myrrh, patchouli and vanilla. A single, 100-ml. version will be available for $70. The memorial service will be held at 1 p.m. on Aug. 2 in Future plans to grow The Art of Shaving’s product assortment include a bath and body care col- Hines Rinaldi Funeral Home at 11800 New Hampshire Ave., lection, which the company would like to introduce in the spring. — Matthew W. Evans Dover Springs, Md. 10 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 30, 2004

The HBA Report WWW.WWD.COM Professionnel Aims for the Top

By Andrea Nagel not prior L’Oréal Professionnel salons. PowerDose treatment retails for as little as $15 in many Luo is just one of the permanent hair color offerings in salons and serves as an all-important add-on sale, as well NEW YORK — L’ Oréal Professionnel has made several the L’Oréal Professionnel portfolio. Majirel, the number as an introduction to the at-home line. strategic moves in the past few years, boosting the divi- one professional permanent color brand in the world, is “If customers like PowerDose, they are more likely sion into a truly competitive position in the profession- designed for rich, deep results and superior gray coverage. to buy one of the other Série products,” Lampert said. al salon marketplace. Diacolor Gelee and Richesse are demi-permanent colors Making a consumer impact in salons is also a part of The business, headed by vice president and general which are the ideal offering for first-time color clients. the division’s strategy to climbing to the top of the pro- manager Pierre Lampert, will experience double-digit Another part of the booming L’Oréal Professionnel fessional products industry. There are its Color Bars, of sales growth in salon retail dollars in 2004, propelled by business is its Série Expert Molecular Precision which there are now two, that aim to educate consumers sales of hair care line Série Expert on hair coloring options in an envi- (which by the end of the year will gen- ronment that doesn’t pressure them erate $50 million in salon retail dol- into buying a service. lars), as well as the strong success of Manhattan’s Color Bar, which the division’s color brands. Texture- opened at Butterfly Studio in the line and Kiwi styling products, spring, is the East Coast’s first ver- brought to the division with the acqui- sion. A West Coast Color Bar opened sition of Artec in 2002, also helped last year at Fred Segal Beauty in L’Oréal Professionnel become a key Santa Monica, Calif. player in the professional styling cate- The Color Bar, which is funded gory with both brands expanding 15 both by L’Oréal Professionnel and the percent over the past two years. salon, first provides a consultation to L’ Oréal Professionnel aims to help colorists find out what the con- rank as the fifth largest professional sumer is looking for in terms of hair brand in the U.S. by the end of 2004, color: gray coverage, highlighting or up from 15 in 2002, prior to the Artec lowlighting. Swatches at the Color acquisition. Bar present an array of color options, One of the most profitable launches then the colorist matches a client’s to come from the L’Oréal Professionnel skin tone with a proper shade. It has business in recent years is Luo Color, been found that the Color Bar eases a permanent hair color brand that the dialogue between the colorist and entered more than 5,000 U.S. salons the consumer because the consulta- this spring in less than three months tion can be performed on a separate due to its point of difference: Luo is day from the actual treatment. designed to keep the natural multidi- According to Lampert, Fred Segal mensional aspect of the hair, playing has shown color treatment sales off undertones, a first for a perma- increases of 25 to 30 percent since the nent color. Lampert would not com- L’Oréal Professionnel’s Color Bar at Butterfly Studio. Color Bar opened last year. Color ment on Luo’s sales, but industry JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY Bars are only built in salons which sources expect it will generate $7 million in U.S. salon Haircare, which launched last year. The line, which use L’Oréal Professionnel color exclusively. sales by the end of 2004. includes shampoo, conditioners and styling products for “It’s a good way to drive sales and elevate service Preliminary sampling in select salons revealed Luo at-home use, was positioned to be higher end than Matrix, levels, it gives a consistent way to color across each would be a success. Lampert said the brand hit a 25 per- Redken and Biolage, but not as prestige as Kerastase. One salon,” Lampert said. cent buy rate after salons sampled it. Usually, he of its star products is only offered in the salon, however, L’ Oréal Professionnel, which plans to open two to explained, sampling yields a 3 to 5 percent buy rate. called PowerDose, a deep conditioning treatment spray three Color Bars in 2005, is exploring salons in Miami And, Luo is a hit in Europe. There, Luo is offered in formulated with a high concentrate of ceramide and and Washington as possible sites. Smaller versions of more than 50,000 doors, 20 to 45 percent of which were amino acids to give dry hair back its luster. The the Color Bars are also being considered.

greater access to L’Oréal USA’s resources. The PROFOUND NAMES DIRECTOR: Nikos Mouyiaris 230,000-square-foot office building at 8522 Enzo Angileri and Bob Salem, co-founders of Profound, South Lafayette on Chicago’s South Side is up is Matrix’s have tapped professional salon industry leader for sale. L’Oréal’s Institute for Ethnic Hair and first Steven Brooks to the company’s advisory SNIPPETS Skin Research will remain at 2101 South board. Brooks has served on the board of celebrity Wabash in Chicago. stylist directors of the Salon Association for the past MATRIX TAPS CELEBRITY STYLIST: Matrix has spokesman. seven years. He and his wife own and manage signed Enzo Angileri as its new spokesperson SPONGE WORTHY: Bar soap could one day be a Diva Studio in Las Vegas. Profound was to represent the business’ vast hair care thing of the past — that is if Spongeables, a formed last year to provide independent salons portfolio. The country’s leading professional product by SpongeTech Inc., has anything to with a business model that aims to combat hair care brand, which is a division of L’Oréal do with it. The new company, based in Los diversion and allows them to partake in the USA’s Professional Products Division, looks to Angeles, began shipping its soap-soaked profitable private label business. get a boost from Angileri’s celebrity client list, colorful sponges — which can be designed to which includes Charlize Theron, Nicole provide a rich lather for up to 30 showers — to MUSIC MAN: In response to a nationwide cut in Kidman, Jodie Foster, Holly Hunter, Lucy Liu Henri Bendel and H2O+ stores last year. Now, music education classes, Ban Beautifully and Faith Hill. Deborah Marquardt, assistant the fruit-infused synthetic sponges are about to Smooth deodorant is looking to raise money to vice president of communications at Matrix, enter Duane Reade, Harmon Discount, promote youth music classes. Ban has teamed said the move tied in with Matrix’s strategy of Nordstrom and Marshall Field’s. Spongeables up with nonprofit teen outreach program providing red-carpet looks to consumers. “We foresees ending 2004 with $4 million in retail themusicedge.com, and Teen People felt it was important to partner with Enzo to sales. Products retail from $12.95 for a Magazine, to “Ban the elimination of music in both underscore our positioning as children’s sponge to $15 for a sponge that schools.” The fund-raiser involves auctioning Hollywood’s brand of choice, as well as our lasts up to 30 showers. Fragrances include off more than 20 tank tops on ebay.com/ban industry positioning as a partner for positive sweet jasmine, spicy mango, peony passion signed by musicians such as John Mayer, Sara transformation. We have had and continue to and citrus basil. MacLachlan, Wyclef Jean and India Arie. The have stylists using our products for their 10-day auction kicks off Aug. 5. shoots, but in terms of a formal spokesperson SKIN SIMPLE: Gingi, a beauty company that relationship, this is our first foray.” Matrix has combines skin care with a water filtration A NEW PLAN: Sonya Dakar is taking a detour LOW CARBS, DOOR TO DOOR: Avon representatives been actively seeking to partner with system, isn’t resting on its laurels. Most from selling her specially formulated skin care will begin selling low-carb foods in August under Hollywood, such as its advertorial partnership recently, Gingi, which already makes 11 items products to day spas and instead is now the company’s weight-management program, with US Weekly, which launched last year. formulated for both sexes, introduced at focused on hotel and spa resorts. The move SlimWell. Called Low-Carb Options, the line Cosmoprof North America a Moisturizing was triggered by the fact that women are very consists of SlimWell Snack Bars, SlimWell SOFTSHEEN-CARSON ON THE MOVE: SoftSheen- Firming Gel ($79) and an Instant Eye Lift loyal to their skin care products and therefore Baked Pasta Soy Chips and Meal Replacement Carson, the ethnic division of L’Oréal USA, is Cream ($89). For 2005, a Deep Cellular are hesitant to purchase a different brand Shakes. Prices range from $9.99 for seven moving its headquarters from Chicago to New Hydrating Moisturizer ($69) is planned. Gingi when close to home. At destination spas, such snack bars to $12.99 for eight meal York. The change becomes effective in the items are priced from $29 for a Make-up as Bacara Resort & Spa in Santa Barbara, replacement shakes. In addition to snacks, the fourth quarter. Almost all of SoftSheen- Removal Clarifying Cleanser to $89 for the eye Calif., Dakar believes, women are more likely program offers Advance Weight Loss System, a Carson’s 63 employees from marketing, sales, cream. A unit of Marketing Fundamental Inc., to experiment. She is offering minikits, nutritional supplement said to help control carbs human resources and finance will make the Gingi is sold in about 30 spas in the U.S., as alongside candles and disposable cameras in and boost metabolism; Control Carbs and Fats move. Those handful of employees unable to well as in select locations in Asia, England guest rooms. The kits, which retail for tablets, edible supplements to manage hunger, move — or whose jobs aren’t transferrable — and Italy. By the end of 2004, Gingi could $28.50, include six items, such as and Weight Loss Support, an edible spray to will be offered severance packages. Candace generate as much as $1 million in retail sales, moisturizers and face scrubs, and are meant control cravings for carb-laden foods like cake Matthews, president of SoftSheen-Carson, said with 25 percent of sales coming from its Web to entice guests who may not travel with their and bread. SlimWell was established in 2002 by moving the office will help the division have site and Amazon.com. skin care regimens. the direct beauty seller. WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 30, 2004 11 WWW.WWD.COM Media/Advertising Leaner Times for Lad Mags By Jeff Bercovici NEW YORK — Ah, sweet revenge. While Maxim and Stuff, those former schoolyard bullies, settle into a somewhat saggy middle age, the old-line titles are showing renewed vigor. Esquire, Details and Men’s Health are up strongly through September, while GQ and Men’s Journal are gaining momentum and market share after soft first halves. Leading the growth is Esquire. With 154 ad pages in its September issue, the Hearst-owned title is up 20 percent for the month and 15 percent year-to-date. The fourth quarter looks to bring further improvement in automotive (thanks to a cluster of launches) and con- sumer electronics, said publisher Kevin O’Malley. “Our trend is strong, but I don’t trust this market for a minute,” he said. Over at GQ (which, like Details, is a unit of Advance Publications Inc., parent of WWD), September’s issue came in at 291 ad pages, up 12 percent from last year. That still leaves the title down around 5.5 percent on the year, but publisher Peter Hunsinger said he expects to close most of that gap with the October issue, which will be up about 50 pages from last year. Hunsinger cited a 23 percent increase in newsstand sales for the year’s first half as evidence that new editor in chief Jim Nelson’s redesign is attracting readers. The picture is similar at Men’s Journal, which also has a new edi- tor, Michael Caruso. “We started off the first quarter a little slow, but starting in June we’ve been up every single month,” said publisher Carlos Lamadrid. Year-to-date through September, Men’s Journal is flat with 606 ad pages, with liquor and financial services driving growth for the title. Lamadrid added that newsstand sales were up 11 percent in the first half of 2004, to around 79,000. Cargo averaged newsstand sales of 110,000 for its first Details is up 7 percent in September, with 207 ad pages, according to publisher Chris Mitchell. That brings its 2004 total to 791, an 8 percent gain. two issues; Men’s Health is on track to carry more than As for the muscle books, Men’s Health is up 10 percent for the year, 1,000 ad pages in 2004. with 761 ad pages. Publisher MaryAnn Bekkedahl noted the magazine is on track for its first-ever 1,000-page year. Men’s Fitness, which has gone through two redesigns in the past year, has 590 ad pages year-to- date (up 7 percent) and 69.2 in September (up 9 percent). Among the lad titles, only FHM is up for the year, with 624.1 ad THE SEPTEMBER SCOREBOARD pages, a 5 percent gain. “[Growth] is across the board, which means the vital signs are good everywhere,” said Dana Fields, FHM presi- dent and executive publisher. SEPTEMBER 2004 AD PAGES % UP/DOWN VS. SEPT. 03 YTD PAGES THROUGH SEPTEMBER ‘04 % UP/DOWN VS. 2003 In September, however, FHM was down 11 percent, with 79.3 ad pages. Maxim, conversely, was up in September (with 114 ad pages, a 5 Cargo 116 N/A 357 N/A percent increase) but remains down 11.9 percent for the year. “That’s Details 207 7 791 8 mainly a pricing dynamic,” said publisher Rob Gregory. “The rates have Esquire 154 20 699 15 finally caught up with the rate base in the last year.” Its sister title, Stuff, is down 6 percent for the year, with 509 ad pages, after repositioning FHM 79.3 -11.4 624.1 5 itself with a greater focus on gadgets and other consumer products. GQ 291 12 1,024 -5.5 Newcomer Cargo has no previous-year comparisons for its 116 ad- page September issue or year-to-date ad page tally of 357. But Alan Maxim 114 5 735.55 -11.9 Katz, publisher of the shopping title, said he detects a slight upturn in Men's Fitness 69.2 9 590 7 the ad climate. “It feels like we’re coming around a bend,” he said. With things still very much touch-and-go, even those publishers Men's Health 140 8.2 761 10 whose magazines are doing well relative to last year are careful not to Men's Journal 97.5 19.4 606 0 sound too ebullient. “Compared to last year, people are a little bit more confident and talking about spending more,” said Esquire’s O’Malley. Stuff 73 8 509 -6 “But in terms of actually releasing dollars, they’re still playing it close to the vest, which makes the crystal ball process more difficult.” NUMBERS REFLECT PUBLISHERS' BEST ESTIMATES.

leanings, has also met former president William dress infringement fall line. “The 50 Jefferson Clinton (no relation). “I introduced when a magazine women were chosen myself, and he said, ‘Great name.’” With the duplicates another because they MEMO PAD Republican National Convention descending on magazine’s cover,” said personify what it New York next month, one might expect to hear Albert Robin, a means to be ‘Ann of further — and perhaps more heated — cases trademark attorney with Taylor’ — a vibrant John Edwards Michael Clinton of misidentification in coming weeks. Alas, the New York firm woman of all ages Clinton is headed to Tuscany on vacation at the Cowan, Liebowitz & and backgrounds,” end of August, where he won’t risk bumping Latman. “Similarly, said Jerome Jessup, into any GOPers — Jeff Bercovici and Sara James there have been cases Ann Taylor senior — but fewer cases — executive vice NOT THE LEAST BIT COUNTRY: The new Country involving what’s inside president. Two pages A page from the new Home redesign looks eerily similar to back the magazine.” Since Paulina Porizkova in from the campaign issues of Real Simple. And no wonder: Robert Country Home. Country Home has will appear in most Ann Taylor’s fall ads. Valentine, who designed the prototype of Time retained its original logo and added a, um, of the Sept. women’s CLINTON/EDWARDS 2004: Some say John Inc.’s pared-down lifestyle bible, served as a unique color band to the magazine’s spine, a magazines while Vogue (like WWD, part of Edwards is the new Bill Clinton. But many say consultant on Country Home. “It was never trade dress suit isn’t likely. And for now, at least, Advance Publications Inc.) will run the entire Michael Clinton is the current John Edwards. said to me, ‘Make this look like Real Simple,’” no one at Real Simple seems to mind the mimic. campaign as an outsert in New York, L. A., Michael Clinton, Hearst Magazines’ executive said Valentine, who came on board long after “Anytime you see something that’s reminiscent Chicago and San Francisco markets. — S.J. vice president, is a dead ringer for the Meredith executives OK’d a new, larger trim of [your work], it’s flattering,” said Real Simple Democratic vice presidential candidate, and the size and heavy matte paper stock. Valentine managing editor Kristin van Ogtrop. “People can CONVENTIONAL WISDOM: Covering the resemblance is putting a crimp in his morning did, however, introduce a new Real Simple- copy bits and pieces, but it’s the synthesis of the Democratic National Convention is grueling commute. “People stop me on the street and style font. “I wanted to help them define design and the content that really makes a stuff. Especially for the staff of Comedy say, ‘You’re John Edwards!’” said Clinton, “And themselves,” he said. “The whole point was to magazine sing.” — S.J. Central’s “The Daily Show.” A team of the I say, ‘No, I’m Michael Clinton.’ Then they get change the feel of country.” show’s producers, editors and on-air talent really confused.” The Hearst executive has So does that mean country isn’t cool? “For JUST DON’T TELL HER SHE’S OLD: To mark the decamped to Boston this week, and after never met his politically minded doppelgänger, years, we’ve been wanting to break out of the company’s 50th anniversary, Ann Taylor’s moving into their temporary housing in the but has spent time with the wife of Democratic country box,” said Country Home editor in chief launching a new advertising campaign dorms at Boston University, staffers went “Old presidential nominee John Kerry. Teresa Heinz Carol Sheehan. “We think we can appeal to people featuring 50 models who’ve influenced School,” apparently reliving their undergrad Kerry spoke at a private luncheon for the who don’t have a quote-unquote country style.” fashion in the last five decades. Linda days. “We’ve reverted to college behavior,” company’s magazine editors on June 10. “She’s All fine and good, but exactly how much can Evangelista, Patti Hansen (with daughters said correspondent Ed Helms. “Last night we from Philadelphia, I’m from Philadelphia — I’m a magazine “borrow” from another title’s design Alexandra and Theodora Richards), Audrey and had Ramen noodles for dinner and played one degree of separation from this campaign.” without attracting the attentions of legal counsel? Angela Lindvall, Karen Elson, Twiggy and others poker until 3 a.m.” No word yet on who Clinton, who declined to reveal his own political “There can be a claim for what we call trade posed for Annie Leibovitz in clothes from the served as R.A. — S.J. JOHN EDWARDS PHOTO BY NANCY KASZERMAN/ZUMA/CORBIS PHOTO BY JOHN EDWARDS 12 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 30, 2004

By Evan Clark NEW YORK — Jones Apparel Group is open- ing the floodgates in its effort to build Bandolino into a multifaceted lifestyle brand at a moderate price. For spring, casual sportswear, denim and dresses will be added to the collec- tion’s current lineup of career-oriented sportswear, shoes and accessories. Jones is looking to push the brand to the forefront of the consumer’s mind with the fuller, year-round retail pres- ence the new lines offer and a marketing budget that’s increasing by more than 30 percent next year.

“The moderate bar’s been raised,” said ▼ Bandolino’s stretch Lynne Coté, Jones’ group chief executive officer of women’s moderate sports- cotton shirt, cotton wear. “We don’t treat this brand, just jacket and cotton because it’s moderate, any different denim jeans. than we do our better brands.” Last year, Jones derived just over 30 percent of its $4.38 billion in sales from moderate apparel. Bandolino’s branding and lifestyle positioning is a sign of the times in moderate, where de- partment stores have increasing- ly had to differentiate themselves from lower-priced national chains like Kohl’s and the con- sumer has come to expect more than just cheap clothes. The moderate area is echoing the action in better as brands like Rayon spandex top Bandolino and O Oscar and Sag and cotton skirt. ▼ Harbor, both produced by Kellwood Co., vie for more expo- sure. Moderate department store lines also have to compete with branded offerings from other chan- nels, such as Old Navy and Target’s various lines, which are usually sold at lower prices, but are collectively brightened by the halo of the dis- counter’s muscular branding efforts. We don’t treat this “brand, just because it’s moderate, any different than we do our better brands. — Lynne ”Coté, Jones Apparel Group “It’s probably a trend [of branding moderate] and I think it’s probably not going to go away,” said Jones ceo Peter Boneparth. “It’s going to be very hard for label-driven businesses rather than branded companies to exist. You can’t run a business living and dying by a de- livery and that’s what happens when you’re a label. You can weather a lot of storms productwise if there’s a lot of brand equity.” With a more than 30-year history, Bandolino already has some brand value that Boneparth said was being “reignited.” “Jones and the superplayers of the Nineties really are in a very unique position,” said brand consultant Catherine Sadler, who said that, hav- ing grown so large so quickly, they now have to become more creative to meet the demands of their shareholders. “The challenge for Jones with Bandolino, as well as its other brands, is to differentiate each so that in their consumer’s mind, he or she is clear as to what its unique at- tributes are and what lifestyle it rep- resents,” Sadler said. Bandolino, she said, has untapped potential and a leg up with its exist- ing brand awareness and a favorable perception in the marketplace. “Consumers today, at every level of the spectrum from high-end to moderate, are more discerning than ever be- fore and they are more brand aware and more brand demanding than ever, and yet not necessarily more brand loyal,” said Sadler. “They have more choices available to them. They’ve been more exposed.” Bandolino’s BrandBandolino’s Buffet WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 30, 2004 13 WWW.WWD.COM

Jones picked up the brand in its acquisition of Nine West in 1999 and expanded the name into sportswear last fall. Apparel launched in 242 stores and is slated to be in almost 1,300 depart- ment stores, such as those owned by Federated Department Stores Inc. and May Department Stores Co., by spring. The firm expects sales of the brand to increase 50 per- cent this year over 2003. Bandolino is not distributed to national chains such as Kohl’s or J.C. Penney. These lower-end chains have offered significant competition for the traditional department stores and are continuing to come up with new ideas to attract customers. Kohl’s, for instance, is launching a modern-styled pro- prietary brand called apt. 9 that will hit the ground running this fall with a presence in the firm’s 589 stores. “The department stores are realiz- ing they can be in the moderate busi- ness and not look like some of their moderate counterparts,” Coté said. The moderate consumer has also gravitated to more fashionable looks. Whereas mothers a generation ago dressed differently than their daugh- ters, “Now, mothers clearly want to look like their daughters,” said Boneparth. “That’s a sea change in attitude about how people want to see themselves.” Coté noted that the moderate cus- tomer “prefers something branded — if she can get it at the right price point, it’s the icing on the cake.” “We’ve created a fashion-infused line, which is designed regardless of her disposable income,” she said. “We’re giving her what she can get in a lot of these better brands and she’s recognizing it.” Pants and skirts from the ca- reer portion of the line wholesale for $20 to $25, while jackets gen- erally go for $36 to $45. Prices in the casual line run about 10 to 15 percent less. The various Bandolino lines are designed to match, so a pair of jeans from Bandolinoblu, the denim line produced by the firm’s Gloria Vanderbilt divi- sion, will blend stylistically with a jacket from the career line. Kimmi Morikawa, vice presi- dent of design for Jones’ updated brands, said, “She is an updated customer, somebody who wants fash-

Silk chiffon dress. ▼ ion at a price. She likes novelty, she likes embellishment. The whole look of the line is much more contempo- rary than what’s been out there.” Morikawa, who has a back- ground in better at Finity Apparel Group, where she was design direc- tor, has kept the better ethic in her move to moderate. “It’s all in the details and the trim, that little extra,” she said, pointing to printed linings and con- trast stitching. “It’s harder to work in moderate in some ways, because you can’t just pick beautiful and ex- pensive Italian fabrics.” Jones’ muscle, such as in-house fabric development, helps the de- signer make up some of the differ- ences between moderate and better. “Those resources are really, really important,” she said. Cotton top Still, this is fashion for the masses. and stretch “Trendy is a very scary word,” said Boneparth. “It’s got to be trend-right, not trendy, and it’s got to fit right.”

cotton pants. ▼ Bandolino is supported by a national ad campaign that works in conjunction with regional, grass-roots and direct-marketing initiatives. The brand’s targeted customer base is meant to reflect the ethnic make- up of the country, a emphasis that can be seen in the magazines that will carry the ads, including Marie Claire, Essence and Latina. Having various product categories allows the brand to have a bigger marketing budget. “We can say with conviction to the stores which magazines we’re going to be in, what we are going to do about point of purchase, what we are going to do about fixturing,” said Boneparth. Eventually, Bandolino might also expand its own retail presence. The brand already has 19 stores, devoted mostly to footwear and ac- cessories, but that might morph into a fuller presentation including apparel. The current stores are set up for footwear and don’t have the space for much apparel. “I don’t think Bandolino retail is 500 stores,” said Boneparth. “We think there is a significant opportunity there over time.” He added that separate stores would serve to enhance the brand and would not drain off sales dollars from whole- PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO sale customers. 14 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 30, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Wet Sea l a nd Ch a mpion Kenneth Cole Net Up 16 Percent Settle Worker Payment NEW YORK — Kenneth Cole Productions Inc. need to get it to market in a consistently shorter posted double-digit bottom- and top-line gains in time frame,” said chief executive officer Kenneth LOS ANGELES — Wet Seal Inc. Champion, the athletic wear the second quarter, beating Wall Street’s forecast. Cole in a statement. “We feel good about the and Champion USA, a division maker, paid $514,000. Los For the three prospects for the fall of Sara Lee Corp., have agreed Angeles-based Textiles Inc. paid months ended June 30, season and are opti- Kenneth Cole to pay almost $700,000 to 472 an additional $28,000. the New York-based mistic with respect to garment workers who said they “We don’t condone practices branded manufacturer the second half of the didn’t get paychecks from a con- that don’t adhere to our fair said net income grew year.” tractor for the companies. treatment standards and believe 16 percent to $7 mil- Reflecting that opti- The employees, sewers and paying the workers was the right lion, or 34 cents a dilut- mism, the company cutters, worked for Los Angeles- thing to do,” said Peggy Carter, ed share, from $6.1 mil- raised the ceiling on its based MiAngels Apparel Inc., spokeswoman for Sara Lee lion, or 30 cents, a year third-quarter earnings which they said did not compen- Branded Apparel. ago. Excluding a one- guidance to 58 cents to sate them from June 5 to July 16. The payout wasn’t the first for time charge for the 60 cents a share from 58 MiAngels is no longer in business. Wet Seal, which has seen sales shuttering of its distri- cents to 59 cents. The workers filed a complaint decline for the last seven quar- bution center, Cole’s Fourth-quarter and full- with the California Department of ters. It paid as much as $1.3 mil- earnings would have year earnings are still Industrial Relations. lion to settle a store managers’ been 37 cents a share, forecast at 55 cents to Wet Seal, the Foothill Ranch, suit on overtime in January. In which exceeded ana- 56 cents and $1.83 to Calif.-based chain of 564 stores, the same month, it also paid lysts’ consensus esti- $1.86, respectively. paid $181,000 in the case, $90,000 to four garment workers mate by 2 cents. For the first half of though the company said it was seeking back wages from one of Net revenues for the year, Cole said prof- not legally liable for the wages. the company’s contractors. the period gained 16.6 its advanced 16.1 per- “It’s part of our wider initia- “It’s an onerous responsibili- percent to $113.1 mil- cent to $14.4 million, or tive to only do business with ty for retailers to have to know lion from $96.9 million 70 cents, from $12.4 mil- vendors who are treating their the ins and outs of their entire last year. Of that total, lion, or 61 cents, in the workers with relevant labor and sourcing operation,” said Jeffrey sales increased 17.7 prior-year period. human rights laws,” said Helen Van Sinderen, retail analyst at B. percent to $103.7 mil- Net revenues in- Rotherham, Wet Seal’s vice Riley & Co. “I don’t think they lion, while licensing and other revenues im- creased 13.7 percent to $235.4 million from $207.1 president of investor relations should have had to pay.” proved 5.7 percent to $9.3 million. million. Of that, sales rose 14.1 percent to $217.1 and communications. — Nola Sarkisian-Miller “We surpassed our operational goals and have million and licensing and other revenues climbed maintained our top-to-bottom focus on the design 9.1 percent to $18.4 million. and quality of the company’s product and the — Dan Burrows Hilfiger’s Newman Retires NEW YORK — Joel Newman, a top executive at Tommy Hilfiger Corp. for more than 10 years and a former vice chairman of Leslie Fay Co., is retiring as executive vice president for finance and opera- Banana Republic Promotes Hillman tions. He will stay with Tommy Hilfiger until a successor has been By Kristin Young found and a transition begins. Newman, 62, also serves as chief operating officer of Tommy LOS ANGELES — Karyn Hilfiger U.S.A. Inc., the company’s principal operating subsidiary. Hillman, vice president of Newman, who joined Tommy Hilfiger in 1993, has been execu- women’s merchandising at tive vice president for finance and operations since 2001. He has Banana Republic, has been ap- held a number of executive titles during his Hilfiger career, in- pointed head of merchandising cluding chief financial officer from 2001 to October 2002, chief fi- for the contemporary brand. nancial and administrative officer from 2000 to 2001, and chief Hillman, 37, has 13 years of administrative officer from 1998 to 2000. merchandising experience at par- Chief executive officer David Dyer in a statement credited ent company Gap Inc. In her new Newman for his contributions to developing much of the compa- role as senior vice president, she ny’s financial and operations infrastructure. will oversee men’s and women’s Before joining Hilfiger, Newman was vice chairman and chief merchandising at Banana operating officer of Leslie Fay, and spent more than three years as Republic, reporting to president president of Calvin Klein Industries. He also held various posts Marka Hansen. Hillman replaces Mark with the former Batus Retail Group, including president of Kohl’s Julie Rosen, who left in February Karyn Department Stores, Milwaukee. to become head of merchandising Hillman Breitbard for the Gap brand. Hillman “has shown extraordinary leadership port to Gap president Gary Muto. Breitbard, a in creating compelling merchandising strategies seven-year veteran of Gap Inc., replaces Tara for Banana Republic’s women’s collections, [and Poseley, who left in June to join modern furni- plays] an instrumental role in the elevation of ture retailer Design Within Reach. Banana Republic and…the brand’s continued Breitbard has “a deep understanding of our cus- Boss Cuts Loss in Qtr. evolution,” Hansen said in a statement. tomers and the emotional connections they build BERLIN — Hugo Boss AG pared 32 million euros, or $39.3 million. Banana Republic tapped Jenna Renfrew to re- with our brands,” Muto said in a statement. “This its net loss in the second quarter Boss attributed about a third place Hillman as vice president of women’s mer- experience, combined with the passion and cre- on strong sales gains, especially of the consolidated sales gains chandising. Renfrew comes from Nike, where she ativity…will help lead the Kids and Baby teams in in its women’s business. to the company’s integration of was head of kids’ apparel. continuing their work to deliver great product and The Metzingen, Germany- previously licensed product In another announcement, Mark Breitbard, an emotional brand experience to our customers.” based fashion house reported a ranges, including bodywear, 36, vice president of men’s merchandising at Gap Inc. operates 3,015 stores under Gap, net loss of 5 million euros, or $6 socks, knitwear, shoes and Banana Republic, has been named senior vice Banana Republic and Old Navy brands, and gener- million, for the three months leather accessories. president at GapKids and BabyGap. He will re- ated a total of $15.9 billion in sales for fiscal 2003. ended June 30. By comparison, Boss’ performance in the U.S. last year the company had a loss also improved considerably, the of 6.6 million euros, or $7.5 mil- company said, as group sales in lion. Euros have been converted the U.S. rose 13 percent in euro at average exchange rates for terms and 25 percent in dollar the corresponding periods. terms versus last year’s first half. Group sales for the quarter In the German market, Boss Marzotto Turns Profit in First Half rose 18 percent to 196.9 million reported a 13 percent sales gain MILAN — A strong euro bit into Marzotto’s first- Hugo Boss sales for the half rose 9.1 percent euros, or $237.3 million, from for the quarter and an 8 percent half numbers, but the company did manage to to 554 million euros, or $680.2 million, while 167.5 million euros, or $190.3 gain for the first half of the year. get Valentino to break even on a net-profit level. those of Valentino rose 15.7 percent to 81 mil- million, a year ago. The remainder of Europe grew Marzotto’s net profit for the six months ended lion euros, or $99.5 million. Marzotto said that Boss Woman continued to sales 25 percent in the quarter June 30 came in at 11 million euros, or $13.5 million, Valentino’s operating profit margin came in at make dramatic gains, the com- and 12 percent in the first half. compared to a year earlier loss of 9 million euros, or 7.6 percent of revenue, which works out to 6.16 pany said, as second-quarter In its other markets, Boss saw $9.9 million. Sales rose 0.9 percent to 876 million million euros, or $7.6 million. sales surged 82 percent to 12.9 second-quarter sales grow 21 euros, or $1.08 billion, but Marzotto said that they Marzotto bought a money-losing Valentino million euros, or $15.5 million. percent and first-half sales for would have risen 9 percent on a directly comparable just over two years ago and has since relaunched For the first half of the fiscal 2004 up 16 percent. basis and stripping out effects of currency exchange. and restructured the house through initiatives year, Boss said net income grew Boss’ managing board said in Dollar figures have been converted from the like focusing on high-end accessories, creating 5.4 percent to 39.3 million euros, a statement it expects sales “to euro at the average exchange rates. exclusive products for retailers such as Bergdorf or $48.2 million, from 37.3 million grow in fiscal 2004 when adjust- Marzotto said first-half sales on a constant Goodman and Neiman Marcus and launching euros, or $41.2 million, a year ago. ed for currency effects, and in- currency basis rose 20 percent in Asia and younger diffusion line Valentino R.E.D. In the women’s business, first- come to increase, as well.” North America. — Amanda Kaiser half sales shot up 47 percent to — Melissa Drier WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 30, 2004 15

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