THE STATE of TASTE Scarlett Johansson Does It Her Way Breguet, the Innovator

THE STATE OF TASTE scarlett johansson does it her way Breguet, the innovator. Classique Hora Mundi 5717 An invitation to travel across the continents and oceans illustrated on three versions of the hand-guilloché lacquered dial, the Classique Hora Mundi is the first mechanical watch with an instant-jump time-zone display. Thanks to a patented mechanical memory based on two heart-shaped cams, it instantly indicates the date and the time of day or night in a given city selected using the dedicated pushpiece. History is still being written...

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Fashion Editor David Thielebeule David Editor Fashion Beaudoin Jocelyn by Styling Gao Alice by Photography 45 Report Market 38 36 34 33 32 31 29 What’s News. 26 18 2014 april STILL LIFE Grant Achatz Grant LIFE STILL

and Topshop loafers. For details see Sources, page 102. page Sources, see For details loafers. Topshop and all-in-one boxer and shirt Wang Alexander Chaix. Marie photographed photographed Johansson PAGE THIS AND Scarlett COVER THE ON TABLEAU VIVANT EDITOR’S LETTER Cartier Unveils a Fragrance Laboratory aFragrance Unveils Cartier Clock Baccarat $150,000 The Q&As With Three Top Landscape Architects Top Landscape Three With Q&As A New Food-and-Design Hub in Paris in Hub Food-and-Design A New A Shangri-La Opens in London’s Shard London’s in Opens A Shangri-La Line Preppy Luxe Kling’s Elin Savant Fashion Hermès’s Limited-Edition Heirloom Watch Heirloom Limited-Edition Hermès’s Stage for Broadway Adapted Films Beloved aPunch Pack Speakers Vintage-Styled favorite things favorite his of afew shares chef maverick The are sure to be the centerpiece of any setting. any of centerpiece the to be sure are objects ornamental and accessories Exquisite Germany’s Berlin-Style Clubs Berlin-Style Germany’s Jacket Smoking Le Updates Pallas A History of Hinckley Yachts Hinckley of A History Brooch Schlumberger aJean Reprises Tiffany Shows Solo Two Debuts Longo Robert Artist COLUMNISTS by Alasdair McLellan and styled by by styled and McLellan Alasdair by .

on Taste

92 MOD. AR8018

54 00 72 COM the exchange. the taste issue.

51 TRACKED: Frédéric Malle 62 A PLACE IN THE SUN 90 LINE YOUR POCKET FRAMESOFLIFE. Perfumer Frédéric Malle’s fragrance Take a break and bask in the relaxed Horologists are winding back the empire is in full bloom. spirit and sweet simplicity of the clock with sleek updates on the time- By Christopher Ross season’s casual fashion. honored, discreet pocket watch. Photography by Martine Fougeron Photography by Lachlan Bailey Photography by Robin Broadbent Styling by Clare Richardson Prop Styling by Eva Barbieradzki 54 AMERICAN TRUFFLE Fashion Editor David Farber Trues from the U.S. are making a 72 THE VERVOORDT WAY comeback, with Oregon—and highly Axel Vervoordt and his sons are 92 THE BROTHERS ROCA skilled dogs—leading the way. developing a mixed-use community The trio behind Catalonia’s El Cellar By Andy Isaacson that embodies his inﬂuential aesthetic. de Can Roca, voted top restaurant in Photography by Laura D’art By Sarah Medford the world, is taking its avant-garde Photography by James Mollison cuisine on the road. 56 BEAUTY QUEEN By Jay Cheshes Photography by Nacho Alegre Makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury’s new 78 FRANKLY, SCARLETT line reﬂects her rosy career. Scarlett Johansson opens up about By Alexa Brazilian her unpredictable path to success and 98 IMAGE CONSTRUCTION Photography by Philip Sinden balancing family and career. Iwan Baan’s photographs have made By Jason Gay him architecture’s most sought-after Photography by Alasdair McLellan lensman. Styled by Marie Chaix By Fred A. Bernstein

84 FORTRESS OF FASHION To preserve her family’s history, Laudomia Pucci is reinventing her ancestral Tuscan estate. Clockwise from top le: Five bites in an origami By J.J. Martin globe from El Celler de Can Roca; a ﬂower in Photography by Simon Upton Axel Vervoordt’s Kanaal showroom; on the hunt Sittings Editor Anita Sarsidi for winter white trues in Oregon. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: NACHO ALGRE; JAMES MOLLISON; LAURA D’ART ’ SIMPLY THE BEST

ILLUSTRATION BY ALEJANDRO CARDENAS

FRUITS OF LABOR Bast and Anubis, both dressed in Ralph Lauren, snack on anchovy-wrapped olives from the Catalonian restaurant El Celler de Can Roca.

OOD TASTE IS PERSONAL and often highly Our cover star, Scarlett Johansson, has never this surging demand? They’re taking the restaurant subjective. But as we discovered while followed a master plan, but as writer Jason Gay dis- on a world tour. putting together this issue devoted to the covers, by listening to her own instincts—and finding While the job of being a tastemaker seems enviable, topic, tastemakers who elevate distinction roles in both indie films (Her) and blockbusters it also takes hard work and dedication. In the words of Gto an art form lead with their vision, and we are (Captain America: The Winter Soldier)—she’s been one of this month’s Columnists, music executive Lyor happy to follow. able to take artistic risks while also becoming one Cohen: “Being a cool kid isn’t a part-time job.” Case in point is antiques maestro Axel Vervoordt, of Hollywood’s most bankable actresses. Now, with whom we profile along with his sons, Dick and Boris. the exciting news that she and her fiancé, Romain The collector, curator and decorator has built a loyal Dauriac, are expecting a child, she reflects on balanc- fan base including high-powered clients like Robert ing the demands of career and family. De Niro and Calvin Klein. Now he’s channeling his For the brothers behind Catalonian restaurant singular sense of style into a venture that will allow El Celler de Can Roca, voted the best restaurant in anyone to live the Vervoordt life, as he transforms the world last year, the rewards of recognition came Kristina O’Neill STYLE, HOSPITALITY, LA BELLE SAISON an industrial zone outside Antwerp into an elegant swift and furious, as the trio was inundated by hun- [email protected] mixed-use community. dreds of calls for reservations. The solution to meet Instagram: kristina_oneill SOME SECRETS ARE FOR WHISPERING ROYAL MANSOUR www.royalmansour.com MARRAKECH . Between now and 2060, the United States is projected to grow by 90 million people. Almost all the growth will happen in cities. How can we create thriving communities here and around the world? Citigroup Inc. of

Developer Jonathan Rose has a vision: Rejuvenate neighborhoods s to create affordable and environmentally responsible housing close to mark e jobs, schools, parks, healthcare and mass transit. For years, Citi has rvic se d been helping to do exactly that. So, we are collaborating with Jonathan re te to invest in the revitalization of urban areas across the United States, gis re including Chicago, Washington D.C., Newark and beyond. e

For over 200 years, Citi’s job has been to believe in people and to help Design ar c make their ideas a reality.

#progressmakers 14 Citigroup Inc. Citi and Citi with Ar 20 © EDITOR IN CHIEF Kristina O’Neill

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Magnus Berger

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Chris Knutsen

MANAGING EDITOR Brekke Fletcher PUBLISHER Anthony Cenname GLOBAL ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Stephanie Arnold FASHION NEWS/FEATURES DIRECTOR Elisa Lipsky-Karasz BUSINESS MANAGER Julie Checketts Andris BRAND DIRECTOR Jillian Maxwell DESIGN DIRECTOR Pierre Tardif COORDINATOR Molly Dahl

PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTOR Jennifer Pastore EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN, NEWS CORP Rupert Murdoch CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER, NEWS CORP Robert Thomson SENIOR EDITOR Megan Conway CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER, DOW JONES & COMPANY William Lewis EDITOR IN CHIEF, THE WALL STREET JOURNAL Gerard Baker MEN’S STYLE DIRECTOR David Farber SENIOR DEPUTY MANAGING EDITOR, THE WALL STREET JOURNAL Michael W. Miller FASHION MARKET/ACCESSORIES DIRECTOR David Thielebeule EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, WSJ. WEEKEND Ruth Altchek

MEN’S STYLE EDITOR Tasha Green HEAD OF GLOBAL SALES, THE WALL STREET JOURNAL Trevor Fellows MARKET EDITOR Preetma Singh VP MULTIMEDIA SALES Christina Babbits, Elizabeth Brooks, Chris Collins, Ken DePaola, ART DIRECTOR Tanya Moskowitz Etienne Katz, Mark Pope, Robert Welch VP GLOBAL MARKETING Nina Lawrence PHOTO EDITOR Damian Prado VP STRATEGY AND OPERATIONS Evan Chadako HEAD OF DIGITAL ADVERTISING AND INTEGRATION ASSOCIATE EDITOR Christopher Ross Romy Newman VP VERTICAL MARKETS Marti Gallardo COPY CHIEF Minju Pak VP AD SERVICES Paul Cousineau EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR MARKETING Paul Tsigrikes PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Scott White EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, WSJ CUSTOM STUDIOS Randa Stephan SENIOR DIRECTOR, EVENTS Sara Shenasky RESEARCH CHIEF John O’Connor SENIOR MANAGER, EVENTS Katie Grossman CREATIVE DIRECTOR Bret Hansen JUNIOR DESIGNER Dina Ravvin PRICING AND STRATEGY MANAGER Verdell Walker AD SERVICES, MAGAZINE MANAGER Elizabeth Bucceri ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITOR Hope Brimelow AD SERVICES BUREAU ASSOCIATE Laura Chernyavskiy

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WEB EDITORS Robin Kawakami, Seunghee Suh

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Alexa Brazilian, Michael Clerizo, WSJ. Issue 46, April 2014, Copyright 2014, Dow Jones Kelly Crow, Celia Ellenberg, Jason Gay, and Company, Inc. All rights reserved. See the magazine online at www.wsjmagazine.com. Reproduction in whole Jacqui Getty, Claire Howorth, Howie Kahn, Joshua Levine, or in part without written permission is prohibited. WSJ. J.J. Martin, Sarah Medford, Meenal Mistry Magazine is provided as a supplement to The Wall Street Journal for subscribers who receive delivery of the Saturday Weekend Edition and on newsstands. WSJ. Magazine is not CONTRIBUTING SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR Andrea Oliveri available for individual retail sale. For Customer Service, please call 1-800-JOURNAL (1-800-568-7625), send email to [email protected], or write us at: 84 Second Avenue, SPECIAL THANKS Tenzin Wild Chicopee, MA 01020. For Advertising inquiries, please email us at [email protected]. For reprints, please call 800- 843-0008, email [email protected], or visit our reprints Web address at www.djreprints.com. C A R O L I N H E . OM 8 5 3 0 7 6 .

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SIMON RUTH LYOR ANNE BI LL T. ALI DOONAN REICHL COHEN BASS JONES PINCUS

“Good taste is an “The thing that’s so “In my opinion, taste “Talking about taste “Culturally, I am a poly- “A tastemaker has to oppressive concept interesting about taste is something precious. is rather outdated, in a glot. I think in terms of be grounded in her own designed to make people to me as a writer is Sometimes I feel like way. The former abso- juxtaposition, mélange, sense of taste; you have feel ashamed—like that, when you look at Indiana Jones because lutes of taste no longer collage. But sometimes to have a clear approach. they’re not quite passing something, we all know resisting the temptation seem relevant. It’s more the mixing and blend- I think you get that muster. I understand that we’re pretty much to be fooled by the really about curation today, the ing of aesthetics of sense from seeing a why it was something seeing the same thing. good is the thing that I development of personal taste can be anxiety- lot of stu. I try to see that people might have With sensation, we’re have to remind myself preferences. The biggest provoking. Especially as much as I can, both talked about in the pretty sure that when of the most. In fact, influence on my taste when you have a wide in person and online, 1950s, when women we touch a rough thing, really good is the worst was my grandmother. range of acquaintances everything from visiting wore white gloves, but I we’re feeling the same thing for me. I actually She was very quiet, very and friends as I do. If show houses to going can’t believe anyone still thing. But none of us has prefer something really self-aware—there was your heart is invested to galleries, museums, subscribes to it as some- any idea if we’re tasting bad or magnificent. never a big statement in something—a piece stores. But you also thing real. I hold to the the same taste. It’s an Because I know what to about what she was of music, for example— get there by being Quentin Crisp belief that incredibly abstract con- do with really bad. But doing. She just knew how you have to be careful confident in the path you should not try to cept. Taste is the most sometimes I get tricked to create these environ- whom you share it with. you’ve chosen, whether keep up with the neigh- mysterious sense—sci- by really good. You need ments, and it was always Because it could contain it’s for a home or an bors—you should drag entifically they’re still an organization that is such a pleasure to be at information about the apartment. It’s impor- them down to your level. not entirely sure how it buoyant enough that it her house. I think I’ve limits of your relation- tant to have a keen sense A lot of this goes back to works. We have a very can aord to wait for tried to re-create that ship. Virgil Thomson of what’s been done the Duke and Duchess limited vocabulary to the magnificent. You feeling. And then my was known to say, before. And sometimes of Windsor. For some describe it. My goal as can chase the moment, parents were constantly ‘You don’t put all your with interior design you reason, people thought a restaurant critic was the frivolous, the really saying that restraint pictures on your wall need to step back and of them as beacons of to try and have people good, but it becomes was desirable and that at the same time, do look at the whole room good taste. Whereas sitting at the table with dust and nobody remem- ostentation was not, you? Then why would as a picture—how are they were really sort of me. I realized early on bers it. Or you could stay and there was a lot of you want to put all your those fabrics going to wretched, self-obsessed, that I had to get beyond diligent and focused shoulds and should nots friends in the same interplay with the over- vain dandies who were too much salt, too little and put yourself in the and notions of absolute room together?’ Having all look? I love color and highly entertaining in sugar, and that I had to cul-de-sac of finding the taste, which I think to negotiate a very art, but you have to navi- their own way, but in do a kind of synesthesia Aretha Franklins, the may have propelled me complex, multicultural, gate a path of building the end, they were a for people: tell them it’s Janis Joplins, the Kanye towards a preference for multiethnic world, I am a room that’s properly deranged couple that like running through a Wests. Hits are a lovely orderly spaces. When a little less exuberant geared for art. You don’t had nothing to say to field, or compare it to collision of many dier- it comes to gardens I about the attitude of: want the colors to be each other. They would music. The wonder of ent circumstances, and love the combination of Throw it up in the air, too loud for the eye. sit in a restaurant and taste is that it’s more it is an arduous process structure and freedom. I see how it lands. There’s You don’t want to over- recite the alphabet. I than just flavor in your of staying in the field in like it to feel very natural a mastery in under- whelm the experience. don’t see what’s so great mouth. It’s an all-encom- search of them. Being even though it’s shaped. standing the correct It’s all about taking that about that. I’d rather be passing experience.” a cool kid is not a part- It should feel inevitable.” time for this or that.” step back. With that Tammy Wynette.” time job.” knowledge, you’re able Jones is a choreographer, to be creative.” cofounder of the Bill T. Jones/ Reichl is a food writer and edi- Cohen is a music executive and Bass is a philanthropist and Arnie Zane Dance Company Pincus is the cofounder Doonan is the creative tor and the author of the novel the founder of the new label the director of the film Dancing and executive artistic director of the interior design website ambassador for Barneys. Delicious!, out next month. venture 300 Entertainment. Across Borders. of New York Live Arts. One Kings Lane.

. & what’s news.

New horizons, served daily. Expand your world with the most incredible treasures, aboard and ashore.

PERFECTLY PREPPY Swedish style star Elin Kling and her ﬁancé, Karl Lindman, launch Totême, a line of eortless but luxurious basics that’s a departure from the edgy fashion sensibility that made Kling famous.

BY ALICE GREGORY PHOTOGRAPHY BY MACIEK KOBIELSKI

LIKE HER PERSONAL STYLE, the New York SoHo oce palette is concise—mostly white, navy, forest green, Scandinavia for over half a decade. She’s done that in of editor and blogger Elin Kling is pared down and retro orange-red—and the dresses all have pockets. part by cofounding Fashion Networks International, enviably clean-looking. There is a row of white Macs, There is a sheer tennis sweater, pique polo shirts with an umbrella fashion ad network that owns a vast quantity of mini San Pellegrino bottles and little extra-long plackets and a Portuguese-made jersey-tee NowManifest, a Fairchild-run platform that hosts else, save for a garment rack containing a tightly edited infused with 10-percent cashmere. It’s resortwear, some of the highest-tracked fashion blogs, like those selection of clothes bearing a tag marked Totême. but more St. Barts than Ibiza. of Anna Dello Russo and Rumi Neely. But, above all, Much to the joy of her hundreds of thousands of online “Creating the pieces I am longing for myself has both home and abroad, she is known for her much-cop- fans, Totême is the 31-year-old Swedish street-style always been on my mind, but I had to find the right ied personal style: a high-low mix of pointy stilettos, star’s inaugural clothing line. The 20-piece collection, timing,” says Kling, a fixture at fashion shows and on slouchy leather pants and sharply tailored blazers— conceived and executed in collaboration with her fiancé industry blogs. “I wanted to create a brand that chal- all oset by her champagne-blond hair. and business partner, Karl Lindman (who is also the art lenges my own style.” Born in the small town of Mariestad, Kling director at Interview magazine), debuts in stores next Kling moved to New York from Stockholm three moved to the Swedish capital after college to start Contact your Travel Agent, call (855) 211-8607 or visit Cunard.com/voyage month. Kling describes it as “European preppy,” which years ago with the goal of building up the same her career in fashion, working for newspapers and Ships’ registry: Bermuda. ©Cunard 2014 translates roughly to “wearable minimalism.” The color sartorial influence stateside that she’s exerted in magazines. She gained mass recognition after >

0414_WSJ_News_123_01.indd 29 3/5/14 4:30 PM 03052014153116 ’

? she parlayed her online column into a regular blog, Style by Kling, in 2007, at the urging of a friend. The scrolling for- THE $150,000 CLOCK mat alternated between runway photos,

fashion-world gossip, artfully composed N French crystal giant Baccarat turns 250 this year, and to mark the occasion it has collages of clothing selected by Kling

and, of course, copious shots of Kling N RAMI reissued a suitably splashy object from its archives: the Sun Clock, the cost of which herself. Within two days of launching, reﬂects its glittering history. The piece was originally designed in 1948 in time for the it was the most-read fashion blog in opening of Baccarat’s ﬁrst Manhattan store, where playwright Arthur Miller spotted the country. ARAT; FROM TOP TO CC it years later and bought it as a gi for his second wife, Marilyn Monroe. According to Since then, she’s started a popular FÉRAS; F. MARTI print fashion magazine, Styleby, which

Y OF BA company CEO Daniela Riccardi, the clock “is an inspiration for our collectors comes out eight times a year, and collab- who want to own a limited-edition piece with a story to tell.” Aer safely transporting orated with H&M and Guess on capsule collections inspired by her signature the fragile 105-pounder home, you’ll likely have more than one. —Sarah Medford K: COURTES CLEAN, NOT SIMPLE

look. With Totême, Kling has avoided LO C

Clockwise from le: A dress C CLOCK: COURTESY OF BACCARAT; FROM TOP TO BOTTOM:BOTTOM: © © GÉRARDGÉRARD UFÉRAS;U F. MARTIN RAMIN the temptation to send out mass-market from Totême’s ﬁrst collection; versions of her favorite clothes—even Kling, shot by Phil Oh; with PERFUME if her past alliances proved lucrative. Net-a-Porter’s Natalie Massenet; the cover of Styleby If those collaborations capitalized on WITH A VIEW magazine; another Totême look. , ESORTS Kling’s personal style to push merchan- , dise, Totême is a business that ventures , Timed to the release of Cartier’s . to ﬁll a hole in the market for the sort of latest scent—the gardenia and luxe casualwear typically available only musk-spiked La Panthère, an olfac-

to those willing to shell out four ﬁgures for a sweater. LA HOTELS AND R tory nod to its diamond-encrusted

Draped atop the garment rack is a navy-and-white Deco-print beach towel. While most design- GRI- ¾ N ers would refer to the fashioned-for-recognition collectible as a “brand piece,” Kling calls it “our , big-cat baubles—the luxury house has

little star.” She designed the keystone item to convey conﬁdence and market identity. The only N: S HA unveiled a 1,000-square-foot fragrance - . DO dierence between it and a towel from Hermès or Louis Vuitton? A more manageable price-point— lab at the Fondation Cartier pour think $350 trousers and dresses. Both Kling and Lindman would prefer to see the complete line sold in sum, rather than as l’Art Contemporain. The eight-ﬂoor individual pieces selected by buyers at department stores. “I’d rather it grow slowly,” she says. “glass rectangle” that sits on Paris’s This means that Totême (which, as of fall 2014, will come out as four collections per year) will Boulevard Raspail has been devoted to only be available at a very select group of online and brick-and-mortar retailers—Net-a-Porter - raising public awareness of contempo- and stylist Vanessa Traina’s SoHo shop, the Apartment, among them—in addition to their own

site, totemenyc.com. “I don’t really care about good style if it’s not worn on a cool woman,” Kling NG; MACIEK KOBIELSKI; LON rary art for 20 years; now, its top ﬂoor , , says. “I’d rather create a world than a trend.” This month, she’ll relaunch her site under the URL N KLI Jean Nouvel–designed custom work- elin-kling.com. She hopes it will read like “more of an online fashion magazine.” ’ , . shop will help raise Cartier’s perfume The ideal Totême woman, explains Kling, is professional, peripatetic and full of aspiration— OF ELI Y OF proﬁle as well. “You can equate the but for time, not necessarily wealth. The clothes, she says, are “about longing for that vacation attention a house pays to its perfumery

you so rarely take.” OURTES with the attention it pays to its space COM; C of perfume creation,” says in-house NYC. expert nose Mathilde Laurent, who BFA relocated to the light-ﬁlled oasis in , ASMUS/ R November. There, she’ll bring fresh LONDON ON HIGH . perspective to the creation of the next The tallest arrival yet to the fast-changing London skyline is a global production. installment of Cartier’s high-end

The thousand-foot-high Shard skyscraper earned its moniker when its Italian NEIL HILIP OH; Les Heures de Parfum line, which she architect, Renzo Piano, referred to the building’s angular design as a “glass is currently working on—with a pan- shard.” Qatari ﬁnancing helped build the South Bank tower, and its most famous oramic view of the , tenant—from an ultra-luxe Hong Kong–based hotelier that’s slowly making moves City of Light in westward—is the Shangri-La Hotel, which will open at the Shard on May 6. While : the periphery. , , the roots of the building are international, its views are purely British, from Big , —Celia Ellenberg , , . Ben to the North Sea. The best place to take them in? One of the hotel’s 202 rooms, FULL BOUQUET located on levels 34 to 52, each with ﬂoor-to-ceiling windows. Or their loos: over Above: Laurent at ’ work in the new a third of the rooms’ marble-clad bathrooms boast London vistas. Looking inward, $, Cartier perfume lab. expect to see Shangri-La’s signature polish: Asian artwork, hushed interiors and a ’ Le: La Panthére, CKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: MACKIEK KOBIELSKI; P . which debuted this

low sta-to-room ratio. Rooms from $733; shangri-la.com/london. —Jesse Will CLO spring. $72, cartier.us.

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PERFECTLY SUITED Daniel Pallas and Veronique Bousquet, the couple behind the RESONANT STYLE Parisian fashion house that bears Daniel’s name, have made a thing of le smoking—Yves Saint Laurent’s 1966 masterstroke These four speakers are leading a pack of new sound systems of dressing a woman in a man’s tuxedo. Since launching in SCREEN TO that combine the latest technology—crisp, clean audio and STAGE 2012, Pallas has focused exclusively on that bold, androgynous multi-device compatability—with slick retro styling that would style. Although the line is relatively new, the Pallas name has If imitation is the look at home in a Rat Pack pad. —Keith Wagsta sincerest form of flattery, a long history: In the early 1960s, Daniel’s father opened an Broadway is sincerely into atelier specializing in men’s suiting but switched to womens- film adaptations. Four Clockwise from left: Bang & Olufsen’s elegant, oak-wrapped BeoLab 18 speakers can stream wear shortly thereaer, working side by side with his wife, a movies–turned–stage wirelessly from phones or laptops; the JBL Authentics L16 brings out lost details in compressed productions are currently music files and makes them sing with six 50-watt amplifiers; the Thiel Audio TM3 bookshelf former petite main for private clients. Eventually, their son took playing to packed houses speakers provide the kind of low distortion ideal for music or movies; MartinLogan’s Crescendo over and brought his own wife on. “We worked with Céline and in New York City. Later boasts six inputs, accommodating almost any device. For details see Sources, page 102. Balenciaga on their prototypes for coats and jackets, but no one this year, expect King LIFE IS A CABARET Kong, Rebecca and Titanic. wanted to produce with us because the work is too expensive,” Dinner club Madame X, Who says there are no located near Hamburg’s says Daniel. “So we started our collection.” new ideas? train station. Pallas’s production is classified as “petite couture”—each garment is cut by hand, down to the finishes. The duo adds new Bullets Over Broadway touches every season—satin details, a tuxedo stripe—and the The musical version palette is mostly black, white and navy. For fall 2014, they’re of Woody Allen’s Oscar- (CLOSETPHOTO BY CASE): ABDELWAHEB PHOTODIDI (CLOSET CASE); BY PHOTO ABDELWAHEB BY NOEL MANALILI DIDI; PHOTO TO (AFTERBOTTOM: HOURS);JOERN BY TOP NOELPOLLEX; COURTESY MANALILI;OF ROCKMARKET; (AFTEROF MAXIEHOURS)PHOTO BY EISEN;STEVE JOERN TOPHERUD, POLLEX;COURTESY COURTESY OF CHARLIE TO BOTTOM: JOERN POLLEX; COURTESYOF MAXIE EISEN; OF JOERNROCKMARKET; POLLEX; COURTESYPHOTO OF BYCHARLIE STEVE HERUD, COURTESY nominated Bullets Over introducing camouflage jacquard suiting, a gazar trench and a BERLIN STORIES Broadway features floor-length black cape. gangsters and divas singing Pants start around $1,310, Years aer the world first embraced the unbeatable party scene in and dancing. On her role jackets at $2,300. “We Germany’s capital, the creative classes of the country’s second cities— as Helen Sinclair, actress Marin Mazzie says, “I loved have customers who Frankfurt, Munich, Hamburg—are starting to adapt Berlin’s signature the film, but I approach the request a bulk deal, and nightclub aesthetic: anonymous or gritty on the outside but wildly character as if I am giving ask if we can drop the glamorous and colorful on the inside. —Gisela Williams her voice for the first time.” St. James Theater price,” says Daniel. “I always say, ‘You’re ROCKMARKET, FRANKFURT Rocky While Berlin is poor and sexy, Frankfurt is the country’s financial center. Based on Sylvester not ordering 50 jackets, It’s also where some of Germany’s most ambitious tastemakers are based. Take Lorenzo Bizzi, who has been throwing underground parties in the Stallone’s 1976 film, the you’re ordering one city for more than 15 years. His latest club is Rockmarket, which over thespian version of jacket 50 times.’ ” the last few years has popped up in a series of about-to-be demolished the Italian Stallion, played buildings. Last seen in a former bank and next expected to appear this Le Bon Marché Rive summer, it always has at least two dance floors. rockmarket.de by Andy Karl, is receiving Gauche, +33 1 44 39 80 00 rave reviews for his knock- OFF CLUB / MADAME X, HAMBURG out performance. —Alice Cavanagh Germany’s most famous chef, Tim Mälzer of Hamburg’s beloved restaurant Winter Garden Theater Bullerei, has opened the O Club in a nondescript brick building—but the wild interiors of the multi-room space are filled with grati and Pop Aladdin Art sculptures. At the casual bar, Mälzer’s team serves up gourmet snacks like crispy chicken wings. In a back-room club, Madame X, they push Disney cashed in with the the culinary envelope with a menu that changes themes every month. long-running Broadway Leverkusenstrasse 54, o clubhamburg.com versions of The Lion King IN SEARCH and Beauty and the Beast. MAXIE EISEN, FRANKFURT All signs point to Aladdin OF LOST TIME Frankfurt’s red-light district is fast becoming the hottest part of town, especially with the recent opening of Maxie Eisen, co-owned by a Berlin- having equal staying power. Well-made watches are designed to capture the moment but last based club promoter. A deli-style café named a¡er a legendary Jewish New Amsterdam Theater gangster, it serves excellent sandwiches by day and perfect cocktails for generations. Hermès’s new limited-edition release, Dressage by night. The facade may be tagged with grati, but inside it’s light- The Bridges of L’heure Masquée, plays on the former aspect—the fleetingness filled and minimalist clean. Make sure to order the reuben loaded with Madison County homemade pastrami. Münchener Strasse 18; maxieeisen.com The libretto for this musi- of time. At rest, only the minute hand shows. But press the cal based on the novel by button on the right and the hour hand magically appears, while a CHARLIE, MUNICH You’d never know that this friendly Vietnamese restaurant is the scene Robert James Waller (and display box will reveal a second time zone in 24-hour notation— of a legendary Saturday night dance party. Nor that it is owned by one of the movie starring Meryl only as long as pressure is applied. Available in rose gold or steel, TUX APPEAL Above: One Pallas Munich’s style setters: the nightlife entrepreneur Sandra Forster. If there Streep and Clint Eastwood) jacket typically requires between eight are hipsters in this traditional city, this is where you’ll find them. A¡er it makes for a playfully self-aware memento. Launching this and nine hours of sewing. Right: Daniel fueling up on the eatery’s famous lau (hot pot) for two, head downstairs is strangely addicting. Pallas and Veronique Bousquet. and through a black tunnel lined with LED lights, where you’ll find the

Gerald Schoenfeld Theater spring; $19,500 for steel, $44,000 for rose gold. —Christopher Ross CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: SILJA GÖTZ; COURTESY OF VENDORS; COURTESY OF LA MONTRE HERMÈS For jacket detail see Sources, page 102. city’s coolest crowd dancing to techno and house. Schyrenstrasse 8; charl.ie

0414_WSJ_News_Spread2_01.indd 32 3/4/14 6:20 PM $QQSPWFEXJUIXBSOJOHT ’

DOUBLE VISION Robert Longo rose to stardom in the ’80s for his hyperrealistic drawings of city dwellers contorted by emo- tion. Now, two concurrent solo shows of the artist’s work opening this month in New York take on history, process and politics as themes. Mid-century masterworks rendered in black-and-white charcoal are the Topofthe food chain. Andwinechain. artist’s starting point at Metro Pictures, while at Petzel Gallery he examines icons like the Capitol building and the American ﬂag in mixed media. Here, Longo on Moby-Dick, King Kong and more. —Claire Howorth Legendarychefs.Coveted reservations. AAA Five Diamond Award-winning restaurants,Picasso and Le Cirque. And an unprecedented wine program that is perfectlyintertwined with everybite. These are the ﬂavors that make asojourntruly rewarding.

MONUMENT MAN Longo, above, created the drawing The Capitol, le, on a massive scale—its seven panels stretch across a wall of Petzel Gallery, where viewers can peer into the windows.

ON DRAWING: “The shows are interconnected in lots ON PROCESS: “Turning something color into black landscape, with many open and closed windows. SAIL AWAY) of personal ways—and lots of socially and politically and white is an inherently abstract process. In the The scale of it is eye-level so you can look in the win- relevant ways. They’re more about drawing than any- 19th century, a lot of painters had their works photo- dows, like King Kong.” thing else. In the past, many of my drawings were graphed for books. They would make copies of their displayed behind glass, so a lot of people think they’re own paintings in black and white because they knew ON ART FAIRS: “Art fairs have become increasingly just photographs. This time, without the plexiglass, that the photographs wouldn’t ‘understand’ the important. They can expedite things—you don’t have you can see the drawing more.” painting: Certain tones become equal; dark reds and to wait for a show to ﬁnd out if your work has sold. And blues look the same; vibrancy doesn’t read vibrant.” the amount of people who get to see the work is great.” ON MOBY-DICK: “I’ve been really interested in Moby- Dick, which is kind of the genetic code of America. ON THE CAPITOL (ABOVE, AT PETZEL): “What’s won- ON STAYING RELEVANT: “I just turned 61, and as you There’s an article by Chris Hedges about how the derful about this is that the perspective on the get older as an artist, you ask, ‘How do you stay United States is like the Pequod—I didn’t intend it be, clouds imitates the building, so the Capitol looks relevant?’ It becomes a challenge. It’s easy to die but some of the artwork became like the ship.” like it’s moving toward you. It has a completely fake young—that’s one way of getting out of it.”

IF IT AIN’T BROOCH

French jewelry designer Jean Schlumberger wanted

his baubles to conjure nature at its most playful— , 2013, CHARCOAL ON MOUNTED PAPER (7 PANELS), 121 1/8 X 493 3/8 INCHES (FRAME SIZE), 307.7 X 1253.2 CM, (MP# even if they were also studiously craed.

His work was coveted by style icons such as CAPITOL Jackie Kennedy, Audrey Hepburn and Millicent Rogers, the Standard Oil heiress for whom he designed the Arrows Brooch (le) in 1947. COME SAIL AWAY This year, Tiany & Co.—the American house “Most of the pleasure of sailing is in where Schlumberger later worked—is reproducing the quality of the boat,” writes David Rockefeller in the foreword to Hinckley the sizable bijou, 3.5 inches from tip to ﬂetching. Yachts: An American Icon (Rizzoli), by Nine unique arrows of 18-karat gold pierce a cluster Nick Voulgaris III, a seafaring history of the classic sailing and motor of amethysts, sapphires and diamonds—ﬁt for a modern- vessels, which have been craed in BRIAN GILMARTIN (ART TALK); ROBERT LONGO, day grande dame. $65,000, 212-605-4200 Southwest Harbor, Maine, since 1928. D-1311), COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND METRO PICTURES; COURTESY OF TIFFANY & CO (FLASHBACK); PHOTOGRAPHY BY F. MARTIN RAMIN (COME Book at 866.519.7117 or bellagio.com/wsj.

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STREETS TO LIFE IN EVERY PIXEL. S A V O R One man is transforming an overlooked corner of bohemian Paris into a world-class destination for food and design.

BY JAY CHESHES ILLUSTRATION BY LENA CORWIN

IF YOU WANDER DOWN Paris’s Rue du Vertbois this month you’ll find new signs of life hidden behind once-vacant storefronts. A sustainable seafood store designed by Tom Dixon has opened just up the block from a new tapas bar by Jasper Morrison. The nearby Korean street-food restaurant was conceived by Milan-based architect and designer Paola Navone, the butcher shop by her compatriot Michele De Lucchi. Tucked behind historic facades, an epicurean village is taking shape in the northern Marais, with six spots scheduled to open in April and 40 more on the way. Welcome to La Jeune Rue (the “Young Street”), a food-and-design theme park—and the vision of one man, 42-year-old Cédric Naudon, who has amassed a small fortune in finance and real estate. Two years ago the Parisian launched his first restaurant, Le Sergent Recruteur, on the Île Saint-Louis, which was celebrated for its market-driven cuisine by former Michel Bras protégé Antonin Bonnet and its playful interiors. “I became a banker to please my parents,” he says. “I’m really a frustrated chef.” Naudon’s experiment in urban renewal began with a second restaurant space. He hoped to turn a party venue on the Rue du Vertbois into an Italian eatery designed by Spaniard Patricia Urquiola, but for months the landlord refused to sell. When he finally succumbed, Naudon agreed, on a whim, to also take four vacant spots the landlord owned on the street. He began to imagine bringing back the butchers, bakers and fishmongers who’d once worked there—but in a new way, encouraging Parisians to “consume dier- ently,” with ethical sourcing and top-notch design. Naudon, who grew up in an art-filled household—“I’ve announcing a name taken from a poem by Guillaume LA RUE EST BELLE always loved aesthetic things,” he says—reached out Apollinaire (“Here’s the young street and you’re The shops of La Jeune Rue combine ethically sourced to designers whose work he adores (and collects). One still a baby/Dressed by your mother in blue and food with interiors by after the next, they agreed to sign on. white only”). Only then did the two dozen designers top designers. 1. Patricia Each new idea inspired another. If there was involved realize what they’d signed on for. “Everyone Urquiola’s Italian restaurant 2. tapas bar by Jasper going to be a fish store, why not an oyster bar, too? was taken by surprise,” says Naudon. “They said, ‘My Morrison 3. speakeasy So Naudon bought a few more storefronts, and a few god, we are making history.’ Nothing was planned. by Ingo Maurer 4. Paola more after that. Soon word started to spread of a Everything came piece by piece.” Navone’s Korean street-food Make a bold statement with the Samsung OLED TV. Its timeless curved design draws you right into restaurant 5. seafood store the action with beauty. This unprecedented leap forward in picture quality technology gives you madman on a buying spree, and new spaces for sale Though the last enterprises—a speakeasy by Ingo by Tom Dixon 6. butcher began flooding in. Within the span of six months he Maurer, a creperie by Studio Job—won’t open until shop by Michele De Lucchi incredibly vibrant colors, while the crisp image creates virtually blur-free TV. Equal parts innovation bought 45 venues. “I was enjoying myself,” he says. “I the end of the year, he’s already at work lining up 7. Studio Job’s creperie. and work of art, the Samsung OLED TV redefines the way entertainment should look. may have gotten a little carried away.” spaces for another Jeune Rue, set to debut in 2016— In January he unveiled the full scope of his scheme though Naudon won’t say where yet. “Watch out New for the first time at a press conference in Paris, York,” he teases. “We might be there soon.” ©2013 Samsung Electronics America, Inc. Samsung is a registered trademark of Samsung Electronics Co., Ltd. Screen image simulated.

0414_WSJ_News_7_02.indd 36 3/5/14 1:55 PM ’ Powered by Three trailblazing landscape architects—Mikyoung Kim, Kate Or, and Edwina von Gal—are unearthing innovative ways to improve the rational thinking. boundaries where man meets nature, using everything from oyster beds to interactive color walls to ensure that new developments harmoniously

. exist alongside their natural environments. —Lindsey Taylor

1. What is your favorite type of plant? Trees, especially oaks (leaf at left), give me such pleasure. I also love nyssa sylvatica,

which has a few common names—like RADE HOTEL tupelo—but, in eastern Long Island, is

known by my favorite: pepperidge. ICAN T

2. How would you describe your decorating style? A mash-up of things I love, informed by my mentor, Joe D’Urso (one of his chairs below). Although modern, his rooms are not sti—same as what I like in a garden. INC; AESOP; COURTESY OF AMER NOLL, K 3. Where is your favorite garden?

The moss garden in Kyoto: AUFMAN; Saihō-ji (above). I love it because it is studied but so subtle. I’m also a big fan DEAN K of Thomas Church, whose EDWINA gardens were also care- HOTO:

fully composed but calm. RK. P VON GAL 4. Which museums do Considered a celebrity in her own right you most like to visit? within certain star-studded Hamptons The New Museum in New York (right), because enclaves, von Gal, 65, is revered for it is pushing boundaries designing serene outdoor spaces for and exploring what a patrons including Calvin Klein and Larry museum can be well beyond Gagosian. As president of the Azuero the galleries. And I like When Sentient Jet Cardholders travel, they choose to do it in the most sensible fashion.

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0414_WSJ_WhatsNews_Q&A_02.indd 38 3/5/14 12:10 PM 03052014120746 Approved with warnings ’

1. What’s the best hotel you’ve visited? The most memorable hotels allow for the landscape to be an important part of the experience. O the top of my head, there are two in California: the Ventana Inn & Spa in Big Sur (left) and Sea Ranch in Sonoma.

2. What are your favorite restaurants? I like restaurants that have a ritual narrative and history—Cal Pep tapas in Barcelona, Hakkasan in London (below).

3. What are your favorite plants? Ferns, which are more than 350 million years old! The cinnamon and maidenhair MIKYOUNG KIM varieties (above) are some of my favorite. From the age of 6, architect Kim, 45, played the piano. Tendonitis dashed her 4. Where are your favorite gardens? concert-playing ambitions in her twenties, The Villa D’Este in Tivoli but she credits her musical background for (right); the bamboo garden imbuing her creations with their trade- at Parc de la Villette in mark sensitivity to personal engagement. Paris; Paley Park in New York; and my own garden in A Harvard grad and principal at Mikyoung Rockport, Maine, as a work Kim Design, her projects have spanned in progress. work on canals to holographic art instal- lations, but she’s become best known for 5. What inspires you? her “healing gardens,” which harness the Music is what inspires me most. I have really scientiﬁcally proven restorative power eclectic interests from Bill of the natural world. At her Crown Sky Evans (far right) to Steve Garden in the Ann & Robert H. Lurie Reich and Andras Schi Children’s Hospital of Chicago, reclaimed playing Bach. wood sculptures respond to human touch 6. What are your essen- by playing calming sounds, and a colored, tial grooming products? LED-embedded resin wall threaded Noevir facial lotion throughout the room changes hue as and Kiehl’s Ultra Facial visitors approach. Her Project Ripple Moisturizer Sun Screen with SPF 30. garden at the Jackson South Community Hospital in Miami is subtly altered to aid patients’ physical therapy and designed to oer private spaces that Great places are boast their own microclimates thanks to cooling mists—demonstrating that defined by nature even environments as sterile as hospitals can use nature to positive eect. > We began with six-hundred feet of undisturbed 2399 Collins Avenue beachfront and the intention to keep it as is. Miami Beach FL 33139 7. What kind of environment gives you the most pleasure? By letting the outside world flow seamlessly in, Immersive landscapes—ones that allow me to feel small and we created timeless spaces that bring more of 1hotels.com/homes inconsequential. Coastal Maine, the beaches at Kalaloch in Washington State, the parched beauty of Death Valley (above). the natural world’s comfort and clarity into T:(786) 507-8920 your life. 8. Which museums do you most like to visit? So many I can’t choose just one! The glass ﬂower collection at the Harvard Museum of Natural History, the Picasso Museum in Paris This is the nature of South Beach. (left), the music manuscript collection at the Morgan Library.

9. What are your most treasured possessions? One, two, and three bedrooms available EXCLUSIVE SALES AND MARKETING BY My Steinway grand piano (far left), which I’ve had since I was 8. FORTUNE DEVELOPMENT SALES More recently, my large cache of kale chips. for purchase now. LEFT: JERI STEDT; TOP TO BOTTOM: CLAYTON HANSEN; COURTESY OF VENTANA INN; HAKKASAN HANWAY PLACE; JEAN-PIERRE LESCOURRET/CORBIS; REDFERNS; COURTESY OF KIEHLS; AFP/GETTY IMAGES;

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0414_WSJ_WhatsNews_Q&A_02.indd 40 3/5/14 12:10 PM $QQSPWFEXJUIXBSOJOHT fashion & design forecast MARKET REPORT. april

TABLEAU VIVANT These picturesque pairings of exquisite accessories and ornamental objects are sure to be the centerpiece of any setting.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ALICE GAO STYLING BY JOCELYN BEAUDOIN FASHION EDITOR DAVID THIELEBEULE

METAL CEREMONY Polish up with silver and platinum accessories. Clockwise from top le: Bottega Veneta clutch, Sue Fisher King glass decanter, Jaime Hayon & Bosa’s Pellicano decanter, Henning Koppel sterling-silver coee pot by Georg Jensen, Pomellato silver necklace, Christoﬂe Vertigo silver-plate candlestick, Piet Hein Eek ceramic jug, Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane necklace, David Yurman bracelets, Henning Koppel modern sterling silver pitcher by Georg Jensen, Robert Siegel handmade tea cup & saucer, Balenciaga bracelet, Christoﬂe Vertigo rectangular silver plate tray with handles, Fontenille Pataud Laguiole cheese knife, Eddie Borgo chevron bracelet, Georg Jensen sterling-silver necklace.

EARTHY DELIGHTS Bright mimosas, ﬁgurines and adornments make a charming mise-en-scène. Clockwise from far le: Alexis Bittar wood necklaces, Creel & Gow garnet bowl, Chloé cu, Man Ray chess set, MSY & Nosigner Mag Container magnetic box set, Hermès secret GM box, L’Artisan Parfumeur, Simon Hasan wrap decanter, Donna Karan New York leather and metal cu, Giles & Brother antique gold tiger’s eye drum necklace, Carl Auböck brush, Sylvie Saint-André Perrin ﬁsh platter, Valentino Garavani Sagittarius necklace, Tod’s gold metal bracelet, Reece Hudson minaudiere.

0414_WSJ_MarketReport_02.indd 46 3/6/14 1:26 PM 03062014122739 Classic Contemporary Home Furnishings Sabine sofa $2499; Loma cocktail table $1199; Onyx rug $1999; all items priced as shown.

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FLORAL DESIGN Simple leather bags and stately cu s are in full bloom. Clockwise from top: Matthew Solomon unique contemporary porcelain vase, Giorgio Armani bag, Ralph Lauren cat-eye sunglasses, Aurélie Bidermann necklace, Maiyet double-truss bracelet and wide-bar bracelet, Lele Sadoughi bangle, Matthew Solomon unique contemporary ceramic tulip, Etro three-stone ring and Bottega Veneta dog leash, Hermès H Cube MM cigar box, Lizzie Fortunato gold-plated brass pendant necklace, Marc Jacobs pochette bag, Chloé cu .

0414_WSJ_MarketReport_02.indd 48 3/6/14 1:26 PM 03062014122739 A weekly magazine in newspaper’s clothing. Your guide to a smart and stylish life.

SUMMER IS COMING

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JILL L A CORTE BLAIR L A CORTE Founder and CEO, Cortiglia Senior Advisor, TPG and Board Member, XOJET, Inc.

ANIMAL KINGDOM Bunnies, birds and baubles, oh my! Clockwise from far le: Lanvin emerald-green clutch, Marie Suri anemone candleholder, Robert Lee Morris necklace, Murano glass bowl, Creel & Gow malachite box and lapis lazuli box, Liz O’Brien lapis tray, Robert Siegel porcelain tumbler, Céline cu, Deborah Slahta ceramic jar, Salvatore Ferragamo blue-glass minaudiere, Irene Neuwirth black onyx and diamond pavé necklace, Creel & Gow hinged box, Garth Roberts blue mirror box, Alexander McQueen sphere skull clutch, L’Objet porcelain tray and snake gold letter opener, Creel & Gow onyx blue bowl, Dior sunglasses, Monique Péan trapezoid necklace, Andreas Caderas bronze/silver rabbit box, Dries Van Noten leather necklace, (800) 392-1400 or visit www.firstrepublic.com New York Stock Exchange Symbol: FRC Hermès porcelain saucer. For details see Sources, page 102. Member FDIC and Equal Housing Lender .

0414_WSJ_MarketReport_02.indd 49 3/6/14 1:26 PM 03062014122739 leading the conversation the exchange. april

THE NOSE KNOWS Malle at his oce on 69th Street in Manhattan, with Boyd Webb’s Lung II behind.

FRÉDÉRIC MALLE With two new stores opening this spring, perfumer Frédéric Malle’s fragrance empire is in full bloom.

BY CHRISTOPHER ROSS PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARTINE FOUGERON

T MAY COME as little surprise that Frédéric counted Catherine Deneuve and Naomi Campbell as locations forthcoming: in Rome, in April; and New Malle, 51, the founder of the fragrance company devotees—is modeled after a literary publisher: the York’s West Village, in May. In Malle’s eyes, the fra- Editions de Parfums, possesses a singularly sen- name and color scheme (red, white and black) of his grance industry, much like Hollywood, is obsessed sitive nose, though he insists that the mark of a business are references to Éditions Gallimard, the with one-size-fits-all blockbusters that manage to Igreat perfumer is not a physical but a mental capac- hallowed French book publisher. As a Maxwell Perkins please precisely no one. He envisions a unique charity for distinguishing scents. “I think it was Voltaire overseeing the F. Scott Fitzgeralds of the fragrance acter for his scents, like the ever popular Portrait of a who said, ‘What is well-conceived is easily spoken,’ ” world, he celebrates the perfumers he works with Lady. These are often inspired by real people, such as he says. Nonetheless, if anyone is genetically suited regularly, hanging their portraits on the walls of his his aunt or his father’s charismatic best friend. to the profession, it’s Malle. His grandfather founded stores and printing their names on perfume bottles. “People find fragrances that epitomize their person- Christian Dior’s perfume line in 1947, and his mother His emphasis on individuality is in sharp contrast ality without even knowing it,” he says. “They do it in was its art director, helping to develop the classic to the corporate fragrance world, where Malle cut his a primal way.” Malle’s soft-spoken manner, his casual Eau Sauvage fragrance for men. A precocious child, teeth as a consultant before becoming disillusioned savoir faire and his sedate, elegant stores evoke a qui- Malle began serving as Mom’s test subject for scents with the direction of the perfume behemoths. His eter, more civilized world. Catching a whi¢ of an at the age of 5. first shop opened in Paris in 2000, and he now has Editions de Parfums fragrance, one has the sense, if The role he plays today at his company—which has three stores there and one in New York, with new fleetingly, of having entered it. >

7:33 a.m. $0 Eats breakfast Amount Malle has spent on advertising. at home with his daughter, Jeanne, and Bucking the industry trend of hiring celeb- their dog, Elvis. Malle eats light (Fage rities to sell product, Malle is tight-lipped yogurt, apple, English breakfast tea) to and protective of his famous clientele. maintain a clear palate. 2,000 raw materials The amount at the International Flavors & Fragrances scent lab for creating perfumes. Roughly 250 are used regularly by Malle and the perfumer Jovanovic.

8:02 a.m. 9 Opens the Madison His handicap in golf. “It’s the only thing that Avenue store. takes my mind o of work,” he says. The three “smelling columns” are Malle’s invention, meant to isolate and then vacuum out scents. 400 square feet The size of his forthcoming New York store at Greenwich Avenue and Jane Street, in a landmarked building. July 17 The birthday Malle shares with Jean-Baptiste Grenouille, the obsessive, genius perfumer and protagonist of Patrick Süskind’s novel Perfume. 8:40 a.m. 10:58 a.m. Arrives at the oce. Snis scents Malle video-chats with his Paris team with perfumer Bruno Jovanovic and checks in with his assistant on his at fragrance manufacturer IFF 4 upcoming travel plans. for development of a new product. children Jean, 12, Lucien, 17, Louise, 21, and Paul, 23, with wife Marie, a clinical psychologist.

5:27 p.m. 7th Conducts brief arrondissement phone call The area in Paris, on the rue de Courty, at the Upper East Side where he was raised. His bedroom as restaurant Sant Ambroeus, a child was formerly the bedroom of the where he has a drink with famous perfumer Jean-Paul Guerlain. an old friend, publicist Alejandra Cicognani. 350 The approximate number of variations Malle and a perfumer typically go through in developing a single scent. 3:21 p.m. Meets with Steven Holl, the architect, to discuss the design of Malle’s new New York store. 19 He’s nine minutes early, for once. fragrances The number in his current collection, including one collaboration with his friend Dries Van Noten. Malle opened his ﬁrst store in Paris with only eight. •

stand of woods. I’m Tom, and I approve this forest.” of many things–plus–tru es: beef tenderloin, cured an animal to spread its spores. Tru es actually lend him a dog when he needed. The forest Tom approved of is located behind a with Oregon white tru es; cupcakes, baked with mature and ripen over several months, like toma- “This dog started everything,” Sanford told me, bed and breakfast near Eugene. Oregon is home to Oregon black tru e–infused butter; and popcorn toes on a vine; an immature tru e has the aroma as we followed Tom following his nose across a car- four of the seven wild culinary true species native dusted with tru ed caramel. of a Styrofoam ball. Foragers in Europe use trained pet of fir needles. “Dove? Dove? Good boy, Tom. Molto to North America. At a mushroom symposium here Oregon white truffles have a garlicky-cabbage dogs or pigs to sni the ripe ones, ensuring a crop of bene.” After a career as an elephant trainer, Sanford in 1977, James Beard, the dean of American gastron- aroma similar to the Alba white truffle, the jewel uniformly high quality; Italian law even mandates ended up at Blackberry Farm, where he trained Tom AMERICAN TRUFFLE omy and an Oregon native, is said to have tasted a of Italian cuisine. By a wide consensus, they are the use of dogs. (Sows are drawn to the wild Italian to find Michaels’s tru es. (Sanford-trained dogs local white true and deemed it as good as Italian not as intense as the Italians, “but what they lack white tru e by a scent that resembles the sex now sell for $6,000 each.) Lefevre, looking to give Long considered inferior to European varieties, white trues. Today, Italian white trues com- in intensity they make up for in aroma complexity,” pheromones of male pigs.) In Oregon, mushroom Oregon tru es their due, recruited Sanford to train mand $2,000 per pound; Oregon whites, in top form, said Jack Czarnecki, author of the Beard award– foragers—“hippie harvesters,” as one local chef dogs at the tru e festival. When Tom trotted into tru es from the U.S. are making a comeback, with a festival in fetch $400 per pound. At some point, Oregon’s wild winning A Cook’s Book of Mushrooms, who holds put it to me—have historically used steel rakes to his first Oregon forest, he unearthed 25 ripe winter Oregon—and a few highly skilled dogs—leading the way. trues acquired a reputation as a second-rate tal- the only license to produce truffle oil in the United collect local tru es. Raking is an indiscriminate white tru es in half an hour. I watched him take ent. It’s hard to find one served on a dinner plate States. The Oregon black truffle—tasting of pine - method; it reaps both mature and immature. Early about a minute to find one, an exhilarating sight. outside of Oregon. This frustrates Charles Lefevre, apple and musk—is altogether distinct from the on, odorless tru es—carrying the culinary value He announced this discovery by quietly pawing BY ANDY ISAACSON PHOTOGRAPHY BY LAURA D’ART who holds a Ph.D. in forest mycology from Oregon French black Périgords. Over the years, Lefevre of green tomatoes—ended up in the hands of chefs. the ground: Buried under a few inches of du, like State University, where researchers have been has pitted Oregon truffles against the prized Old The reputation stuck. a rough jewel, was a knobby, golden-colored tru e. studying trues for a century. “The market under- World varieties in a number of unscientific blind When Lefevre founded the Oregon Truffle Students at Sanford’s training seminar had appreciates it, but we have a culinary treasure tests. “The Oregon truffles have always come out Festival, there were hardly any truffle dogs west brought their Labrador retrievers, German shep- here,” he said. on top,” Lefevre told me. “I would not conclude that of the Mississippi River. In east Tennessee, a plant herds and one poodle. There are now at least In an eort to rehabilitate the stature of American the Oregon white truffle is necessarily better. But pathologist named Tom Michaels, a graduate of the four tru e-dog trainers on the West Coast. “It’s LL RIGHT, TOM, lavora!” barked Jim haul worth $240,000. On this January morning, trues, in 2006 Lefevre and his wife, Leslie Scott, the European variety still costs me $1,500 a pound, same Oregon State University truffle program as exploded,” Kris Jacobson, a former K9 cop in Eugene Sanford at the curly-haired dog sni- Tom hunted the Oregon winter white true, a wild founded the annual Oregon True Festival. It was where the Oregon white truffle at that time was Lefevre, was cultivating Périgord truffles using who founded Umami Tru e Dogs, said about the ing the du. A cheery, bilingual Lagotto fungus that thrives beneath young Douglas firs in the first festival of its kind outside of Europe. “Our $80 a pound.” oak trees he’d imported from France. Michaels demand from chefs for dog-hunted tru es, which Romagnolo, Tom possesses a nose finely the Willamette Valley. I watched as Tom, latching intention was to stimulate the birth of an industry,” Tru es are the strange fruit of a fungus. Unlike brought his truffles to Blackberry Farm, a luxury cost twice as much as rakevd tru es. Atrained to the scent of culinary trues. Some years on to a whi, suddenly dashed over to the trunk of Lefevre told me in January. This year’s festival, held mushrooms, they develop entirely underground, inn at the foot of the Smoky Mountains. He and the At Sanford’s training I met Jason Germick, a ago, Sanford boasted, Tom unearthed 200 pounds a tree. He raised a leg. “OK, now he’s going to pee,” at the peak of true season, sold out. There were and when fully ripe, emit a beguiling, aromatic proprietors struck a deal: Michaels would supply bearded 37-year-old who showed o a bowl contain- of black Périgord trues in a Tennessee orchard—a Sanford explained. “He always has to approve the true forays and true-cooking classes and a taste gas—an “eat me” broadcast —designed to lure Blackberry with black truffles if the farm would ing two dozen freshly picked white tru es. He led a shaggy Lagotto Romagnolo named Aldo—Tom’s grandson. Germick had recently left a 12-year career as a financial advisor with JP Morgan Chase in Seattle to “pursue his passions.” He saw a fertile opportunity in tru es. His friend owns a few acres in Washington, where they intend to plant oak and hazelnut trees inoculated with Périgords. (It takes five to seven years for a baby tree with Périgord spores to bear fruit.) An Oregon couple I’d met over tru e eggs that morning had a similar plan: They handed me a card for their crowd-funded campaign to build a Perigord tru e orchard. Lefevre sees an industry for the wild Oregon tru es as well as the lucrative Périgord tru es, which sell for $800 per pound and thrive in the same terroir as the area’s grapes. (No one has suc- cessfully cultivated the Italian white tru e outside of its native habitat; Lefevre is in the early stages of figuring out how to farm the wild Oregon varieties.) “This group of people is comparable to the demographic that pioneered the wine industry in California 50 years ago,” said Lefevre, who has a 14-year-old business, New World Tru©eres, selling oak and hazelnut seedlings inoculated with Old World tru es to farmers across North America. In a 2009 feasibility study, Lefevre and his colleagues A FUNGUS AMONG US Clockwise from le: estimated that sales of cultivated and native tru es Tom, a Lagotto produced in Oregon could earn $200 million annu- Romagnolo, hunting ally—and bring in $1.5 billion more through other Oregon winter white trues with his trainer, economic benefits, like tourism. Jim Sanford; Freshly “This is not emus—one of these hobby crops harvested Oregon where somebody’s just selling an idea but there’s not trues; Tom, the true dog; Oregon black actually a market,” Lefevre told me. “There is a big true chirashi, market for tru es already. It’s just a matter of figur - prepared by Justin ing out how to do it to reduce the risk, to make it more Wills, executive chef of Restaurant Beck, for the reliable, more predictable. I believe we are at the very Oregon True Festival. early stages of a burgeoning industry.” •

0414_WSJ_Truffles_02.indd 54 3/5/14 1:08 PM 0414_WSJ_Truffles_01.indd 55 3/4/14 3:39 PM 03052014132332 03042014144037

THE EYES HAVE IT Tilbury in her London studio, surrounded by images of her work.

FEEL LIKE I’ve already lived two lives,” says Charlotte Tilbury in the kitchen of her Notting Hill townhouse. The first, explains the flame- haired makeup artist, was spent running wild Ias a kid on the Spanish island of Ibiza, where she was raised. Tilbury’s parents—Patsy, a location scout, BEAUTY QUEEN and Lance, an artist—surrounded their daughter with a glamorous, bohemian circle of friends; before As her new line launches, celebrity makeup artist she had even turned 10, she was dancing with Grace Charlotte Tilbury opens her London home to discuss the business, Jones at the legendary Ku club. The next life began at age 18, when she went to work assisting the British the clients and the cat-eye flick that started it all. makeup artist Mary Greenwell, who popularized the natural face of the early ’90s. “We’d be backstage at a fashion show, and it would be just the supers BY ALEXA BRAZILIAN and me and Mary,” says Tilbury. “Christy, Naomi, PHOTOGRAPHY BY PHILIP SINDEN Claudia—all of them.” At 40, Tilbury has made a career of administer- ing her trademark “feline flick” cat eye to a long list of celebrity clients, including Penélope Cruz, >

Moss herself finds Tilbury’s touch to be transformative. “I feel like a dier- COVER GIRLS ent person after Charlotte has done my Tilbury has styled makeup,” says the supermodel. “She’s various Mario very powerful.” Testino–shot Vogue covers; she also does Tilbury’s popular how-to videos— makeup for runway which appear on her own website and the shows (right, in 2011) YouTube channel she launched in 2012— and celebrity clients. show women how to create some of her signature characters, such as the “rock chick,” “the golden goddess” and “the glamour muse.” So devoted is Tilbury to maquillage that she claims no man has seen her without it. “Never. My mother always said, ‘Keep the mystery alive.’ At night I lock the bathroom door, and I take o all my makeup and then reapply my eyeliner and a little bit of mascara. They’re my bedroom eyes,” she laughs. Tilbury is just as uncompromising with her wardrobe. She says that she owns only one pair of flat shoes and doesn’t know where they are. The rest are heels from PALLING AROUND island baby had beauty-mogul instincts. Prada, Miu Miu and Jimmy Choo. “She always says Photographers Mario Testino and Mert Alas, “I remember she used to babysit for not wearing heels makes her depressed, and she top, at a fund-raiser in Penny Rich, who was a beauty editor and doesn’t have any personality without them,” says Ibiza, are friends, as are so she had all these cosmetics at home,” Ninni Nummela, Tilbury’s former lead assistant. Her models Kate Moss and Cara Delevingne. says Patsy, by phone from Ibiza, where clothes are almost all black dresses, either vintage Tilbury returns each August. “She’d give or by designers whom she also calls friends: Tom them to Charlotte, and Charlotte would Ford, Alice Temperley and Alessandro Dell’Acqua. do makeup for all the girls at school and The stacks of antique rings on her fingers are a gift then sell the rest o for pocket money. from her new beau, British film producer George She was always very resourceful. You Waud (whose credits include Snakes on a Plane). She can’t keep those redheads down.” started dating Waud after separating from her hus- The four-story Georgian house she bought with have on the girl in front of them,” Testino emails. “I’ve always been fascinated by the band, actor Charles Forbes, last year, and the couple Forbes nine years ago reveals more of her inner Ibizan. “With Charlotte, it becomes not only makeup to power of a beautiful woman walking is expecting their first child this summer. She enjoys gathering people there but says, “I’m not a enhance the beauty, but a life enhancer, as she into a room. Glamour really means to “It’s all very amicable,” Tilbury says of the breakup. domestic goddess. I’m a 24-hour girl. I work hard and changes the energy around that person. She’s a cast a spell,” Tilbury says, in her stac- “We all live around the corner from each other. We I play hard. I drink. I smoke. I do all the things you’re great talent, which is why so many superstars are cato way. “As a child I was always like, realized we were better friends than lovers.” not supposed to.” For a dinner party, Tilbury prefers always in line to get her.”

Cara Delevingne and Kate Moss, who is her muse, How can I achieve that X factor? Then I realized, EN calling her local butcher to precook a beef bourgui- Tilbury’s ambitions are superstar-sized: She ND Ah-ha! Through makeup.” I best friend and the godmother to her 4-year-old S gnon or Wellington. She’ll set the table with candles, cites cosmetics magnates Estée Lauder and Helena TESY OF

son, Flynn. Tilbury travels the world to style faces In her ﬁrst year away at an English boarding UR bone china and a set of hand-painted 17th-century Rubinstein among inspirations. And like her predeces- HILIP for the advertising campaigns and runway shows of school, Tilbury learned to layer coat upon coat of NO Venetian glasses. No fussy ﬂower sors—perhaps it’s an old-fashioned WINNING X3; CO X3; major labels, including Burberry, Donna Karan and thick, black mascara. When she returned home to P X3; arrangements, no formal seating notion—she promotes the idea that CAMPAIGNS ST GES

Tom Ford Beauty. Fashion photographers like Mario Ibiza, “I suddenly became more popular overnight. IO TESTI cards. That way she can focus on “’ looking good means feeling good. Tilbury’s touch— particularly MAR Testino and the duo Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott Everyone from 17 to 70 on the island reacted to me in Y IMA music and cocktails. Beverages While critics argue that the

F the dramatic

call her when they’re shooting the covers of Vanity such a dierent way. They said, ‘Oh my god, you’re so ETT typically include a concoction of beauty industry feeds on women’s Y O . eyes—appears in Fair or Vogue. Now, after years of ghost-developing much more attractive now. You’ve grown up so much. /G her mother’s called the “raspberry insecurities, Tilbury believes it advertisements for TES UE; © CONDÉ NA ETT ’ - Burberry, H&M and UR

for some of the biggest beauty brands in the world, You’ve changed so much,’ ” recalls Tilbury. “And I OG rascal” (champagne, crushed rasp- oers empowerment. “There are Michael Kors. she’s created her own line of makeup and skin care, was like na-na-na-no, I’ve only been away for three ; CO berries, vodka) and something that . no negatives with makeup, only M. BEN AN / V / NO

which launched in the U.K. in September and will roll months—it’s because I discovered mascara. I real- VE she and Moss call “the skinny bitch” , positives,” says Tilbury. “None

out stateside this September. ized makeup was my secret weapon.” Statement eyes ESTI (vodka, soda, lemon). The meal is of us are perfect, and thank god.

; T .” EN; DA

Tilbury founded the company in late 2011 with are key to Tilbury’s process, which involves contour- GE just a prelude, though. But why not look as gorgeous as IR M CLELL ND – backing from angel investors and two English ing features by layering products. MA “There’s always a party with you can possibly look? Actresses EI private investment ﬁrms: Venrex Investment The power of personal improvement has remained Charlotte, and she’s the absolute and models know that looking the Management, which focuses on start-ups; and part of Tilbury’s ethos ever since, though she draws F ALAS DA queen of the dance ﬂoor,” says Nummela. “Years of best they possibly can will increase their success. Samos Investments, which funds many e-commerce a parallel between herself and doctors, not wizards. Y O living in Ibiza is probably a good education,” adds I want to bring that awareness to women every -

and energy ventures. (The Charlotte Tilbury valu- “Being a makeup artist is a bit like being a surgeon. RTES Moss. Of course the partying has been nixed until the where,” she proselytizes. “You know that man ation is not public.) Tilbury’s promising-sounding You can make people’s eyes look bigger, you can baby arrives. you want? I can help you get him. You know that OM TOP LEFT: PHILIP SI NO; COU Magic Cream, an SPF moisturizer, retails for $95, make their cheekbones look higher, you can make FR It’s the people-person-ness that has made Tilbury pay raise you want? I can help you get it. Makeup and basic products (compacts, eyeliner, etc.) run in their nose look smaller. You can morph someone’s successful with such an in-your-face line of work. should make you dream, and make your dreams

the $22 to $95 range. face a bit. If you want to look a little bit like Kate, I can IO TESTI “Some artists often prefer to show their talent with come true,” she says emphatically, smiling. “That MAR There were always hints that the free-spirited do it,” she says, adding mischievously, “I’ve done it.” GET LIPPY Tilbury picks colors using Pantone swatches. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: WIR CLOCKWISE makeup rather than caring about the eect it can is, like, it.” •

0414_WSJ_Tilbury_02.indd 58 3/5/14 3:56 PM 0414_WSJ_Tilbury_02.indd 59 3/5/14 3:56 PM 03052014145751 Approved with warnings 03052014145752 Approved with warnings AT EASE

MODERN ROMANCE Fall for a poetic blouse topped with a boyish blazer. Céline jacket, Dolce & Gabbana silk blouse and Etro ring.

BR 03-92 CERAMIC · Automatic · 42 mm · Bell & Ross Inc. +1.888.307.7887 · [email protected] · e-Boutique: www.bellross.com

Download the BR SCAN app to reveal exclusive content A PLACE IN THE SUN

Take a break from strenuous styling and bask in the relaxed spirit and sweet simplicity of this season’s collections.

RAY OF LIGHT The laid-back look of high-waisted linen shorts and an airy knit is the opposite of overheated fashion. Michael Kors cardigan, shorts and belt, Zimmermann bikini, Patricia Underwood hat, PHOTOGRAPHY BY LACHLAN BAILEY Anndra Neen choker, STYLING BY CLARE RICHARDSON Sequin bracelet and Aurélie Bidermann ring.

FREE STYLE Floaty skirts in cool whites and this season’s musts—slip-on ﬂats— breathe fresh air into classic ideas. Céline skirt, Selima hat, The Row loafers and Sequin bracelets. Opposite: Hermès shirt and skirt, Coach slides Wwake choker, Aurélie Bidermann ring, Dolce & Gabbana bracelets (on right wrist), on le wrist, from le to right, Kenneth Jay Lane bracelet, WXYZ bangle, Coomi bracelet and Kenneth Jay Lane cu. GOLDEN HOUR Aer a sun-kissed day, throw on long, ﬂuid pieces and artisanal jewelry for eortless elegance. Céline jacket, Bottega Veneta skirt, Aurélie Bidermann rings, WXYZ bangle (le) and Lizzie Fortunato cu. Opposite: Agnona jacket, Donna Karan New York pants, Anndra Neen choker, Dolce & Gabbana bracelets, Aurélie Bidermann ring and Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci sandals.

0414_WSJ_Kati_01.indd 66 3/3/14 11:04 AM 0414_WSJ_Kati_01.indd 67 3/3/14 11:04 AM 03032014102952 03032014102953 ANGLE OF REPOSE Look serene in a soly tailored suit of painted cotton canvas. Proenza Schouler top and pants, Selima hat, Pamela Love rings and Isabel Marant sandals.

0414_WSJ_Kati_01.indd 68 3/3/14 11:04 AM 0414_WSJ_Kati_01.indd 69 3/3/14 11:04 AM 03032014103008 03032014103009 PERSONAL AFFAIR A beguiling little black dress or a casually tied slit skirt create an innocent allure. Bottega Veneta shirt, Altuzarra skirt, Aurélie Bidermann rings, Plukka bangle, Coomi cu and Sequin bracelets (all on right wrist) and Sequin bracelets (on le wrist). Opposite: Chanel dress, Aurélie Bidermann rings, Coomi cu and Sequin bracelets (all right wrist) and Sequin bracelets (le wrist).

Model, Kati Nescher at DNA; hair, Akki; makeup, Marla Belt; manicure, Stephanie Stone.

For details see Sources, page 102. THE VERVOORDT WAY With the help of his sons, Axel Vervoordt is expanding his empire—and creating an entire community that embodies his inﬂuential aesthetic.

BY SARAH MEDFORD PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES MOLLISON

AST THE EASTERN EDGE of Antwerp, a complex of factory buildings rises out of the landscape along the Albert waterway. Known simply as “Kanaal,” the former liquor distillery built in 1857 serves as the sprawling headquar- Pters of Belgian antiques impresario Axel Vervoordt, and home to the family business he founded in 1968. Inside its red brick warehouses and towering grain- storage silos are oces; research and restoration facilities; showroom after showroom of masterfully arranged furniture and objects; and a cache of art and antiquities—part of Vervoordt’s private collection, ranging from Khmer sculpture to a room-size work by Anish Kapoor. Vervoordt is a solid, jovial man in his late sixties who, for more than four decades, through his passion for old things and new ways of thinking about them, has defined an original and remarkably consistent way of living. Owing to his range of talents—in addition to being a dealer and a collector he is also a curator, a FAMILY AFFAIR Antique and art dealer decorator and a furniture designer—and a prolif- Axel Vervoordt (right), with eration of magazine articles and books about him, his sons Dick (center) and Vervoordt has become as influential as any tastemaker Boris (le), in the gallery at Kanaal, their mixed-use in the world today, his vision of nobly proportioned development just outside Antwerp. The painting is by Hermann Nitsch. rooms seeded with objects worn by time and use Over the past few years, Boris, 40, has taken charge will begin welcoming the buyers of 98 new loft-style enshrined all the way from The World of Interiors of the art, antiques and interior design studios, cor- apartments (starting price: $400,000), where fans of to Instagram. “Axel has developed a certain style,” nerstones of an enterprise that now numbers some 100 the Vervoordt look can go to live the Vervoordt life. says fashion designer Calvin Klein, a longtime client. people. In 2011, the company formally entered the art “I think it’s a very natural extension to what “Somehow it just appeals to my sensibilities—and market, opening a gallery in Antwerp where examples they’re doing, and they have the talent and strength apparently to a lot of others, even people who are buy- of the postwar minimalism and Expressionism Axel to do it,” says Apollonia Poilâne, a close friend ing furniture that is only inspired by what he does.” has long favored could be shown, including works of of Boris’s who will bring a branch of her family’s If it weren’t for Vervoordt’s confidentiality agree- the Zero and Gutai movements, while Boris has been renowned French bakery to Kanaal, and may take ments, he would be known for having the most scouting locations for a second space in Hong Kong, an apartment there as well. “The Vervoordts know prestigious client list in the world. Instead the to launch in May. An interior-design oce has opened how to make people enthusiastic about these things. “ attention settles mostly around his shoulders, with in Connecticut; the international team now juggles They are so passionate about it themselves. And this — ’ a few public exceptions: Kanye West, Pierre Bergé, upwards of 35 projects annually. is something they know how to do.” She’s referring .” Starbuck’s Howard Schultz and Dries Van Noten have But the transformation of Kanaal is the biggest to the fact that the family has been in the develop- all worked with him. Sting and Trudie Styler hired news, and the most public move yet for a family ment game for generations: Axel got a taste of it from – him to help with their villa in Tuscany, and Robert whose discretion has been an essential part of its his mother, who restored some of Antwerp’s oldest De Niro handed him the job of reimagining the pent - success. Later this year, under the supervision of Baroque dwellings as a hobby. Eventually he and May house of his Greenwich Hotel in Tribeca, a project Axel’s younger son, Dick, 37, the 12-acre site will tran- came to own the cobbled street of Vlaeykensgang in that comes to completion this month. sition from oces to a mixed-use development and its entirety. But a street and a village are di©erent As incongruous as it seems, the current trend popularized by a host of retailers for nubbly beige linen, low-slung sofas, soulful ceramics and unfinished wood floors—the wider-planked and more worm- holed the better—can be traced back to the operation MIX MASTER in this former distillery. Klein made his first visit Another Kanaal showroom features a to Kanaal in 2004 on the advice of a friend, Miami- 1955 V-leg armchair based design consultant Lorraine Letendre. He’s not by Pierre Jeanneret, forgotten it. “I bought very old pieces there,” he says, an 18th-century mannequin and a “armoires, tables that are so pure, and yet at the same self portrait by the time so rugged, with a texture from being outdoors Slovenian painter for 200 years that other people just don’t deal in. And Zoran Mušiˇc. I love them. Still, after years.” Since then, he has filled homes in Manhattan and Miami almost solely with pieces from Kanaal, recently ordering up a container of furnishings for his new Southampton beach house. Axel and his wife, May, live several miles from Kanaal in the 12th-century Kasteel van ’s-Graven- wezel, a yolk-colored confection surrounded by rhododendrons the size of small cottages that has been their home since 1984. But while this place and many other things in Axel’s world are reliably con- stant—his taste for sweets, his love of Baroque music, his daily horseback ride—change is afoot. “Over the past five years our client has changed,” he observes during a break in the opening-night fes- tivities of the Brussels Antiques and Fine Arts Fair, where the family has exhibited for three decades. He is sitting in his booth on a sofa of his own design, dressed in country-squire tweeds that match the tobacco-colored desk and bookshelves behind him. A few feet away his son Boris chats up some Belgian clients who have known him since childhood. Such relationships are vital in the antiques world, where generations of sellers woo generations of buyers, and Boris has proven especially adept at this, which has allowed Axel time to expand the business in new ways. “Many of my clients have started looking at contemporary art,” he says, keeping one eye on the stream of visitors practically scraping his knees. PERIOD PIECE “It’s been an evolution. I have moved in that direc- A showroom at Kanaal. tion, and they have followed me.” Where he goes next The large Amancio may take them by surprise. After decades of show- table designed by Axel Vervoordt is surrounded ing clients how their houses might be notched up a by a set of 1940s Italian few levels—always with the lightest touch—Axel has bronze stools and sits in begun to think much bigger, planning an expansion front of a library display and a French speculum that will position the Vervoordts as arbiters of taste mirror, both 18th century. on an unprecedented scale.

they’ve been working with are the Arsenal in NEW FRONTIER Venice, Tadao Ando’s contemporary art museum in Clockwise from le: Naoshima, Japan, and the Hombroich museum in A scale model of the residences; the view Neuss, Germany. No one is thinking small. from the Albert Canal; “We never want to do things within the allowed Anish Kapoor’s At framework—of building, for instance, of zoning,” says the Edge of the World; inside a warehouse Boris. “So we push a bit, and we have to wait. It’s not residence. an easy way to work.” Nor is it guaranteed to succeed. The concept for Kanaal has a utopian gloss, a marriage of industrial-scale architecture and old-school village life. Will expat businessmen really hang out on the village green? Will the lighting consultant turn up enough clients? Though Axel says he envisioned a community at Kanaal the very first time he considered buying it, he credits Boris and Dick as the catalysts who have moved the idea forward. Boris and Dick in particular studied the site and a possible program over a period of years, ultimately advising their parents to consolidate their activities on that one campus. “What I think I can claim in this story of our family is pushing my parents to be more of who they are—and crystallizing what that could mean for the business,” Boris says as he makes the rounds of the showroom after lunch. By his account, they didn’t need much encouragement. Axel has always had a philosophical turn of mind, and for decades he and May have cultivated relationships with theoreticians and scientists, delving into worlds as diverse as quantum physics and Eastern religious principles and in turn gaining renewed faith in the connection between the aesthetic work they do and its emotional and spiritual implica- tions. Beginning in 2007, the Vervoordts mounted a series of exhibitions in Venice—wildly popular, highly influential—that juxtaposed art and antiques and explored such matters as art and time, the value of imperfection and the power of the unknown. rungs on the ladder, and the Vervoordts are now May aren’t leaving their castle, and Dick and Marlene “When this new vision crystallized for us through clambering toward the top. say they’re content to remain at their farmhouse on the exhibitions, the learning curve became that On the day of the Brussels fair opening, Axel is the estate with their three children. Boris lives near much stronger for the company,” explains Boris, happily at large while May, Boris and Dick are all his partner, American writer Michael Gardner, in momentarily stopping in front of a ravaged and at Kanaal, gathered around a table for lunch in the a renovated 16th-century townhouse in Antwerp’s severely beautiful canvas by Antoni Tàpies. “You can company cafeteria—a high-ceilinged space with Vlaeykensgang, though he’s been eyeing a penthouse no longer just say, ‘That painting looks great over scarred plaster walls and oversize leaded windows carved from within the former malt-storage silos. the chest of drawers and with the lamp—you should filtering sunlight o¤ the water. More like close-knit “It’s a natural thing for me to move to Kanaal,” he buy them all.’ ” colleagues than a mother and her sons, they update says. “But it’s a duality. I grew up in Vlaeykensgang, The family’s heightened message about the value one another on business matters between bites of and I travel nonstop. I am only in Belgium 160 days a of things, and the enlightenment they can provide, butternut squash soup, veal and eggplant. May is year.” Still, the space—and the view from 10 stories has met with positive reception among their clients working out new orders in the fabric studio; Boris is up—is astonishing. With the Vervoordt touch, the and surely earned them new ones. For people of a cer- overseeing a design team with three critical months penthouse has the potential to become the family’s tain mind-set and demographic, interior design has to go on a massive British project, and Dick is tour- van ’s-Gravenwezel for a new generation. become not just a pleasant preoccupation but a route ing prospective buyers through the new apartments, The idea of living in a community art-directed to greater personal development and an expression of careful to point out where the Poilâne bakery and the by Vervoordt will be the fulfillment of a dream for a newly acquired values. In 2011, Axel published a book wellness center will be. certain audience, and the family has already met its entitled Wabi Inspirations that helped point the way. “We have some great people already committed,” share of fans, whose visits are rewarded with a color “Clients want to make the exploration today— Boris says as Dick jumps up to meet with unsched- marketing package. Kanaal will be a “city in the coun- they take yoga classes, they visit the ashram, etc.,” uled visitors. “Young people who are local and also try,” with urban conveniences (restaurant, dentist, Boris observes. “And we want a learning process on international, for example classical performers who dry cleaner); rural character (walking paths, fruit both sides—for them and for us. If there is no interest travel constantly and use Brussels as a hub. Also, orchards, village squares); cultural pursuits (the in art on their part, for instance, then perhaps…” His international people who have Belgian roots—entre- family’s Inspiratum concert series and the Vervoordt voice trails o¤, the implication clear enough. preneurs who want a foothold back home.” Foundation, a museum-in-the-making); and a series An expansion into real estate, then, seems like “And people are coming for private, emotional of green-roofed workshops (violin-maker, framer, more than just a natural extension of the Vervoordt RED-BRICK DREAMS One of Kanaal’s reasons,” adds Dick’s wife, Marlene, an architect who lighting consultant) that only a developer on an aes- brand. In housing, as in house-making, convincing warehouses. Originally is a member of the development team. “They want to thete’s wavelength might concoct. The residential others to see as you see is everything. “The value built in the 1850s, be a part of the Vervoordt lifestyle.” buildings have been designed by a trio of Belgium- in the things the Vervoordts sell—it’s all perceived it’s been restored and expanded by The promise of a Vervoordt living on every cor- based architects: Bogdan & Van Broeck; Stéphane through their eyes,” says Klein. “And I think every- Belgian architects ner isn’t being o¤ered up, at least not yet. Axel and Beel; and Coussée & Goris. Among the inspirations one sees things through Axel’s eyes.” • Coussée & Goris.

FLOWER POWER “If you took Scarlett’s career from her tomorrow, she wouldn’t change,” says her Captain America costar Chris Evans. Christopher Kane embroidered sweatshirt.

Frankly, SCARLETT

From big-budget blockbusters to acclaimed independent ﬁlms, Scarlett Johansson’s path to success has been anything but obvious. Newly engaged, she opens up about the next challenge on the horizon: balancing family and career.

BY JASON GAY PHOTOGRAPHY BY ALASDAIR McLELLAN STYLED BY MARIE CHAIX

Samantha Morton—and she is magnanimous about her predecessor’s contribution, calling the final product “sort of a combination of both of us.” Recording was harder than expected. Some scenes were filmed on a soundstage with Johansson housed in what she called “a tiny little isolated prison booth,” often with Phoenix visible in the distance. N THE SNOW, New York City becomes a fantasy The performance ended up being among the most version of itself. A blanket of winter weather celebrated of Johansson’s career. Though one critic slows this frantic city down, hushes the hurly- was not convinced. At the moment, Johansson is the burly, covers it in a quiet beauty that turns a target of an amusing (and one-way) feud with Siri of the mundane walk into a romantic stroll. Snowy iPhone, who, after a playful intervention by Apple pro- New York is the New York you dreamed of: old- grammers, described Johansson’s OS as “artificial.” Ifashioned, elegant, irresistible. Until a city bus plows What the hell. When am I going to get this chance by at 40 mph and sprays you with muddy, brown slush. again? I remove my iPhone from my pocket and ask in I am going to meet Scarlett Johansson for lunch, the presence of the real thing: “What do you think of and the midday snowfall somehow feels appropri- Scarlett Johansson?” ate. By now it’s a thoroughly accepted premise that “I don’t think she’s going to have an opinion,” Johansson is herself a romantic throwback, a bit of an Johansson says. old-fashioned fantasy—a smoky-voiced reminder of Siri pings a curt response: “I really couldn’t say.” a lush, more glamorous show-business era. I believe Interpret Siri how you wish. Her was the latest this makes me the 100,000th person to describe example of the auteur credibility and collaboration Johansson as “smoky-voiced,” for which I should have that has defined Johansson’s career. Already she’s my computer keyboard stripped and tossed into the worked with Robert Redford, Sofia Coppola, Woody Hudson. But the cliché is true. So is the throwback Allen (three times), the Coen Brothers and Jonze. She part. Johansson’s choice of a meeting location today is HE FIRST TIME I met Johansson was also made a stunningly well-received run on Broadway not a sleek, modern aerie with angular furniture and around the time she appeared—arrived as Catherine in A View From the Bridge, winning a Euro-disco, but the Carlyle Hotel, o Madison Avenue, is probably a better word—in Lost Tony Award. But a few years back she realized there a low-lit classic merrily frozen in time. in Translation, Sofia Coppola’s sub- was something she hadn’t accomplished, and wanted: In the snow, I am 20 minutes late. She is 25 minutes dued comedy set in Tokyo in which a role in a juicy blockbuster, some of that good but- late. This is OK. It doesn’t feel like a day to rush. When Johansson’s character, Charlotte, tery popcorn stu. There had been unsuccessful she arrives, she’s dressed in a black goose-down coat, a Tdevelops an unlikely friendship with a lonely movie attempts: 2005’s The Island, directed by Michael Bay, thick striped sweater and black wool pants, and she is star played by Bill Murray. It is crazy to think that and The Spirit, written and directed by Frank Miller, wearing a pair of tortoiseshell eyeglasses that would Lost is more than 10 years old. Small but criti- which quickly came and went in 2008. She wanted to comfortably fit on the nose of a prep-school English cally acclaimed, the film turned the then-teenaged give it another try. She’d seen Robert Downey Jr. and teacher. There is quick chatter about the weather and Johansson (who had already appeared in movies like Gwyneth Paltrow in Iron Man and was struck by the the craziness and the way the taxis and buses were The Horse Whisperer, Manny & Lo and Ghost World) intelligence wrapped around all that CGI. “I was like, I swerving all over the road. And of course how this into an instant sensation, the ingenue of ingenues. want to be part of something big like that, Johansson city looks perfect through it all. “A lot of people have When I encountered her, she had platinum blond hair recalls. “I want to be in a really successful, huge film that thing in New York where they need to get out— and spent part of the interview trying to teach herself that’s good and works.” they’re like, ‘Oh you have to get out in order to love it,’ ” how to care for a Japanese Tamagotchi egg (remem- Her candor on this subject is refreshing—actors Johansson says. “I never had that.” ber those?). The crush of fame around her felt bright, tend to be circumspect about their career goals, and And yet she doesn’t live here anymore. At least not new, fragile. Unspoken was how Hollywood could be especially any commercial motivations. But a butt- as much as she used to. Johansson grew up in New York, cruel, especially on young actors. Who knew how this kicking part held other appeals to Johansson. “I a kid actor who attended the Professional Children’s all would go? wanted to prove to myself that I could do it,” she says. School on West 60th Street, but she now spends most It is more than a decade later and Johansson, now “I wanted to stretch myself physically, out of my com- of her life in Paris, on the Left Bank, with her fiancé, 29, is one of the most successful actresses of her gen- fort zone, and still succeed. I’m probably like most Romain Dauriac, a former magazine editor turned eration—relevant, bankable, and all those terrible, actors. We have huge egos, and you want to know you creative director of a French ad agency. (Is Dauriac tacky words. But her success owes itself less to any can be successful, no matter what. I don’t want to be actually her fiancé? It’d been rumored for months. “Yes, kind of star-making algorithm than it does a willing- pigeonholed in one genre or budget or whatever.” we’re engaged,” Johansson confirms.) At the moment, ness to step outside expectations and experiment. Her breakthrough came in, of all things, 2010’s Iron she is amid a mild dustup with her adopted country, “She is not the kind of person or actress who has a Man 2, in which Johansson debuted as the cat-suited after joking on David Letterman’s talk show about master plan that she follows,” says Rob Ashford, who Natasha Romano, aka the Black Widow, of the Marvel the rudeness of Parisians. The comment was intended directed Johansson in her 2013 Broadway turn as comic universe. The sequel was a massive hit. Then more as a wry observation than a scorching rebuke, but Maggie in Cat on a Hot Tin Roof. “Her master plan is to Johansson’s Natasha headlined in Joss Whedon’s not everyone saw the humor. “You’re allowed to com- keep working on projects that interest her, to continue Avengers, alongside Downey Jr.’s Iron Man as well as plain about places you live, because you love them,” being challenged.” Johansson explains. “Then I got o the stage and I go, At the moment, Johansson is fresh o the success ‘Oh my God, did I just oend a nation of people?’ ” of Her, Spike Jonze’s moodily sweet romance star- Johansson said that Dauriac called and reassured ring Joaquin Phoenix as a man who falls in love with her that her comments were accurate, that everyone his operating system. Johansson plays the OS. It’s REAR WINDOW Johansson, seen here in a in France says the same kinds of things about pushy an unusual role: Johansson is heard and never seen, 3.1 Phillip Lim top, Parisians. “But of course his father called him and and yet she imbues Samantha with such soul that Michael Kors pleated skirt said, ‘What is she smoking? What is she thinking?’ ” she becomes a vivid character, as if fully fleshed. and Topshop loafers, grew up in New York but now She laughs ruefully. “Hopefully they will accept me Johansson was a late arrival to the project—Jonze had spends more time in Paris, back there.” already filmed a version of Samantha with the actress where her fiancé lives.

0414_WSJ_Scarlett_03.indd 80 3/5/14 5:35 PM 0414_WSJ_Scarlett_01.indd 81 3/3/14 2:29 PM 03052014163630 03032014133039 actors like Mark Rualo (The Hulk), Chris Hemsworth (Thor) and Chris Evans (Captain America). Like Iron Man, Avengers paired its razzle-dazzle with genuine actor cred, and the film was catnip for superfans and mainstream audiences. Avengers earned an aston - ishing $1.5 billion worldwide, putting its all-time “ ’ revenues behind only Avatar and Titanic. . ’ , “I don’t think anybody could have predicted how ’ successful it would be,” Johansson says. “It was bananas. Totally bananas.” . She’d found her franchise. Johansson’s Natasha ’ .” – will be seen in April with Evans in Captain America: The Winter Soldier, and of course there will be Avengers 2, scheduled to arrive in 2015. The films have broadened Johansson’s audience in unforeseen ways. “My friends’ kids are way more into me than they were before,” she says. “I don’t think they were even allowed to see half the movies I’m in. And now, kids are like, ‘Does Captain America have a sister?’ All to actor Ryan Reynolds, a breakup that played out on these questions. ‘Who would win a fight between...’ I the covers of supermarket magazines. There was a get a lot of that.” terribly invasive hacking crime in which Johansson’s Should the success continue, there’s no reason the (and other celebrities’) private information and pho- Avengers franchise can’t last for many years and spin- tographs were stolen; the perpetrator was sentenced os, though Johansson says the physical demands to 10 years in prison. “A bumpy time,” is how she of her action parts are taking a toll. She ticks o her describes that period. “But I always intended to get o injury inventory: a painful wrist that “drives me nuts,” that crazy gossip wagon and back to my regular life.” knee aches, pain on the side of her body. “I have all A few weeks after we meet, Johansson finds herself kinds of crazy things.” embroiled in an international controversy when pro- At least Natasha is not a full-time job. The same testers take exception to her paid relationship with weekend the big-budget Captain America sequel over,” she says. Getting older doesn’t unnerve her, SodaStream, an Israel-based company with a plant in arrives, Johansson will also be seen in Under the either. “I don’t want to be the ingenue anymore,” she a West Bank settlement. Oxfam, the charitable relief Skin, an arresting indie directed by Jonathan Glazer says. “That part I’m happy about. It’s nice to be glam- organization with which Johansson had worked for (Sexy Beast). Johansson plays an alien who preys on orous, but I don’t want to always have to be trendy and more than eight years, is troubled by the partner- a string of men in rainy Glasgow, but that description glamorous and an object of desire. I don’t want to be ship, and Johansson and Oxfam split. Writing in the barely scratches the full experience. Under the Skin is stuck in that forever. Because it doesn’t last.” Hu¢ngton Post—her only comment on the matter— a striking, occasionally terrifying film about identity, That level-headedness is a Johansson trademark. Johansson said she “never intended on being the face of with long, nonverbal stretches and hauntingly beauti- “If you took Scarlett’s career from her tomorrow, she any social or political movement... as part of my a¢lia- ful cinematography. It sinks into the bones, gradually, wouldn’t change,” says Evans, aka Captain America, tion with SodaStream,” and defended the company as uneasily, and is unlike anything Johansson has ever who describes Johansson as his “older sister,” even being committed to “building a bridge to peace between done. Johansson spent many sessions discussing though she’s a few years younger than him. “If you gave Israel and Palestine.” (That tempest was accompanied the film with Glazer, a director she admired, without her an Oscar, she wouldn’t change. She is who she is.” by a milder one over Johansson’s SodaStream Super being certain the film would become a reality. “There Still, Johansson speaks with urgency about Bowl commercial, which was censored pregame, and are several directors with whom I’ve had kind of a the tension actresses often feel between balanc- then allowed to air in a revised version.) creative relationship, but have never worked with,” ing their careers and personal lives, particularly As her thirties approach, Johansson seems content she says. “We like to imagine that we will, but who on the subject of family. It’s a topic that turns out to fly low to the ground. Her relationship with Dauriac, knows?” (Johansson’s spare performance did not sur- to have happy urgency: A couple of months after we whom she met in 2012, is not wild gossip fodder. “Our prise Glazer. “Good actors are able to tackle dierent meet, reports will arrive that Johansson and Dauriac life is quiet,” she says. (As evidence, the couple has roles,” the director says matter-of-factly.) are expecting a child. “It seems so stressful to not be been mercifully spared a mortifying relationship While there’s an ocean of dierence between able to spend time with your family because you’re acronym. “Scar-Ro? Scar-Main?” Johannson jokingly Under the Skin and a feel-great popcorn blockbuster, constantly chasing the tail of your own success,” suggests.) She is vague about wedding timing (“our Johansson glides naturally between the two. She Johansson says. She continues: “There must exist a plan is to get married at some point”), but she admits seems uninterested in taking any obvious path. “I’d world in which I can balance those things, be able to that her French is rusty. Dauriac’s family mostly rather take the chance of a film not working than be raise a family and still make a film a year, or work on speaks French around her, but at home the couple usu- stuck in a pattern of making the same movie over and my own, develop things, do theater. I want to be able ally sticks to English. “When you’re in a relationship to have it all.” She laughs. “Selfishly.” with somebody and you’re communicating with them, “I know that with that there will be some sacri- you want to be as clear and concise as possible. We LIGHT FANTASTIC fices. I know that’s the struggle with working mothers try to speak French a little, but it’s mostly like, ‘I like “She is not the kind of and successful careers. It happens.” But the scent of this sandwich.’ ‘That’s a nice color.’ ” She intended to person or actress who has a master plan that she double standard is obvious, and Johansson doesn’t take a month o and study French with a tutor. “You follows,” says director shy from it. “With [male actors] it just doesn’t hap- go out, you go to a museum, order lunch, try to do a Rob Ashford. Proenza pen that way. You can be every woman’s fantasy, and conversation.” Schouler silk top. nobody thinks twice about the fact that you have Afternoon beckons. It is time to go. Johansson pulls Hair, Sean Mikel; makeup, eight kids or whatever.” on her down jacket. Paris may be sublime. But outside, Lisa Butler; manicure, Yuko. She has learned to roll with the maddening frustra- it continues to snow, transforming New York into a For details see Sources, tions of the business, and she hasn’t been unscathed by captivating city that still very much feels like Scarlett page 102. the celebrity grind. There was a marriage and divorce Johansson’s kind of town. •

0414_WSJ_Scarlett_02.indd 82 3/5/14 12:28 PM 0414_WSJ_Scarlett_02.indd 83 3/5/14 12:28 PM 03052014120731 03052014120731 FORTRESS OF FASHION To preserve the bright history of her family’s global fashion brand, Laudomia Pucci reinvents her ancestral estate in the Tuscan countryside.

BY J.J. MARTIN PHOTOGRAPHY BY SIMON UPTON SITTINGS EDITOR ANITA SARSIDI

OT LONG AFTER EMILIO PUCCI launched his line of kaleidoscopic patterns and slinky, body-conscious jersey knits in 1947, he chose his home as his base of operations: the Palazzo Pucci, a Renaissance palace in the center of Florence. Owned by the fam- HOUSE BEAUTIFUL The fortress at Granaiolo, outside Florence, ily since they were political advisers to the Medicis in the 1400s, has been in the Pucci family since the 13th the palace boasts precious paintings by Botticelli and other Old century. The convent, at right, was built in Masters, as well as an atelier, boutique and company headquarters. For decades, the 15th century. Opposite: Pucci with vintage N mannequins in her new oce. Pucci’s archives—which include 18,000 print variations, 15,000 scarves, 1,000 bolts of vintage fabric and 200 custom fabric colors—were stored in a cantina beneath the property. But the designer’s fashion legacy was not secure in the

ancient subterranean space, and Laudomia, Emilio’s At Granaiolo, the Pucci family legacy runs back to daughter who took over when he died in 1992, knew it. the 13th century, when their noble forebears built an Laudomia, now the brand’s image director and imposing fortress atop the honey-colored land. Over deputy chairman, remembers the devastating flood time came a convent graced with frescoes, stables of the Arno River in 1966, which killed more than a and farmhouses for the peasants who worked the hundred people and destroyed countless works of fields for wheat—“Granaiolo” means “wheat barn”— Florentine art, architecture and literature. It also wine grapes and tobacco. wiped out the cantina. “The water was two meters The income from Granaiolo powered the fam- deep. My father lost everything. You wake up and ily’s concerns until the early 20th century, when suddenly everyone is in their galoshes trying to Emilio’s grandfather built the town’s train station. save pieces,” says Laudomia, who continues to live The young Pucci, a marchese by birth, enrolled as on the Palazzo’s top floor with her husband, three a fighter pilot in World War II before launching children and her mother, Marchesa Cristina Pucci his lucrative fashion career. Granaiolo remained a di Barsento, Emilio’s widow. Though the company working gentleman’s farm up until the 1980s, when replenished after that disaster, since then, flash it finally ceased agricultural operations. By then, flooding has periodically steeped the Pucci archives Pucci had become a global brand, and the family in swampy water. When it happened again in 2012, didn’t need Granaiolo for support. she realized her heritage was at risk. “If I wanted to pass on what the company has cre- HEN EMILIO FELL ILL in 1989, ated, I had to do something about it,” says Laudomia. Laudomia stepped into the CEO “Why let it die? And why by a flood, when I have this job at age 29. After Emilio’s whole place in front of me?” death, she took over both the This whole place is Granaiolo, the family’s sprawl- business and creative sides. But ing 150-acre country estate in Castelfiorentino, 45 Laudomia—who had worked minutes southwest of Florence. Starting in the fall Wonly for her father, and in production for Hubert de of 2012, Laudomia began to transfer most of the Givenchy for three years—found it a challenge. company’s vast archives to the countryside, and “The level of what I was giving was never built a laboratory for fashion students to study fab - enough. People wanted more. Colette wanted my ric technology, design and history. stuff. In 1998, I brought the first collection to Milan PAST PERFECT “I have more than enough space here, and I want to show. I had just lost my brother, and I had just A space once used to age wine now provides to share it,” she says. “People used to have so much had my son. I was relaunching the company. I man - an arid climate for Pucci’s archives. Opposite: time to explore and develop things. My father had aged to hold it together by chance,” says Laudomia. A 1970s Pucci occhi-print carpet, Christian Liaigre furniture and a 16th-century fountain this time. But young creatives today don’t—the busi- “And I thought to myself, I don’t want to be in that decorate a sitting room in the old stables. ness rules have become so cutthroat. So I really hope situation. So I started playing by the rules. I hired this can be a place of reflection, study and creativity.” a brand strategist and some designers, and while I

newly built oak closets organized by garment and decade. Some of the armoires contain a rainbow of garments in the company’s custom Pantone colors so synonymous with Pucci’s vibrant look: Rosso 02 335 or Bordeaux 02 456 and so on. “Armani had his beiges. These colors are my father’s,” says Laudomia. “I call it the alphabet of Pucci.” Outside, the sweeping lawn features a stair- case by landscape designer Niccolo Grassi—a nod, in a way, to the dramatic stepped-grass garden that the late Gae Aulenti designed for the fortress in the ’60s. Laudomia also planted palm trees amongst the existing cypress and olive trees “for a touch of kitsch.” Stables have metamorphosed into a dining room for 20—the number of bedrooms available in the smattering of converted peasant houses on the hillside. Visitors can unwind in a second pool or at the gym, where exercise machines hum within the restored brick walls and wood beams of a former livestock stall. The relics of the old farm are juxtaposed against slick design throughout, including Pucci carpets, modern Christian Liaigre furniture, Cappellini couches covered in Pucci terry cloth and a tapestry based on a Pucci print that Laudomia commissioned from the Italian artist Francesco PRINTS VALIANT Above: Emilio Pucci at work in 1959. Opposite: An armoire from Pucci’s 1950s Florence Vezzoli—part of an ongoing project to have contem- boutique, newly decorated by Maria Luisa Frisa in a custom font that lists inventory according to Pantone color. porary artists create works inspired by the archive. Below: Supermodel Veruschka wears a Pucci cape in a 1965 image. “I want a mix of art, fashion, design,” explains Pucci, “so I’m doing Granaiolo in a very versatile way.” was running around, LVMH banged on the door.” substance, or you turn into any other brand.” Already Pucci has hosted several educational By 2000, Laudomia had navigated the sale “Archives are the soul of our brands, but it’s a events, including two Journées Particulières: of 67-percent interest in the company to LVMH, privilege when you have someone who knows the LVMH–sponsored open house events. Two groups which still owns it (sales figures are not public), heritage better than anyone,” says LVMH fashion of students from Polimoda, the Florentine fash- but she retained ownership of the extensive group CEO Pierre-Yves Roussel. ion school where Pucci serves on the board, have archive. “Archives weren’t instrumental to the “It’s a hell of a job,” adds Roussel. “It becomes come to study sewing and print design. Laudomia is business in the way they are today,” she says. “But a logistical challenge to store and maintain these hoping to extend the educational activities to inter- it was never a question that I would sell it. You fragile things. The Givenchy archives are in the national fashion schools for longer visits. don’t sell your family’s memories.” The freedom basement of Avenue George V, and most other “We should encourage students to relate to has allowed Laudomia and her [LVMH brands] are outside Paris archives,” says Laudomia, who believes such study financier husband, Alessandro in temperature-controlled ware- will teach young designers to appreciate their fash- Castella no, to ta ke on Gra na iolo’s “ houses. This is very unique.” ion forebears. At Granaiolo, she sees a future where transformation, which they have Luckily, Granaiolo’s immense the next generation will find a place to rest, recharge personally funded. barn turned out to be a perfectly and, most importantly, find inspiration for innova- “This was our weekend hobby,” arid place to store and display tive fashion. “Heritage means a lot,” she says, “but says Laudomia of the renova- all the vintage jersey that was only if you pull it out and make it alive. Otherwise tion project. They tasked regional , “so fine, you could’ve folded the it’s just another dead museum.” • artisans with laying floors in dresses down and put them in a handmade terra-cotta and pitch- cigarette box,” says Rome-based ing roofs of reclaimed wood. The fashion historian and curator workers restored the fortress’s .” Enrico Quinto. “Emilio Pucci was blue-gray facade of local pietra ser- – an absolute trailblazer—he ena stone, original iron grates on industrialized Italian fashion the windows and massive wooden by introducing a range of ready- stable doors. The main house, its upper guesthouse made sizes, which was an unheard-of idea in Europe. and pool will remain the family’s private retreat, but Dior could have repetitions made, but Emilio had 10 the property’s once crumbling agricultural buildings sizes and 10 colors of one design. He became the most have been reimagined as a lightly modernized version influential and powerful designer in Italy.” of themselves. As the restoration progressed, trea- Laudomia selected some of her father’s designs sures came to light, like a graceful arcade of columns to be displayed on vintage mannequins, as well in the old winery, and some 16th-century paintings as work by past creative directors Julio Espada, Laudomia found hidden in the granary. Christian Lacroix and Matthew Williamson, and “We have a richness and a heritage,” she says of Pucci’s current designer Peter Dundas. Another two Pucci’s history. “It’s my opportunity to make it into rooms, once filled with wine bottles and tractors, something special. More and more with globalism, are now lined with neoclassical furniture, historic celebrity and mass fashion, you need this weight and armoires from Pucci’s ’50s Florence boutique and

0414_WSJ_Pucci_01.indd 88 3/4/14 2:11 PM 0414_WSJ_Pucci_03.indd 89 3/6/14 1:24 PM 03042014131243 03062014122810 LINE YOUR POCKET Aer years of ever-bigger and brasher wristbands, horologists are winding back the clock with sleek updates on the time-honored, discreet pocket watch.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROBIN BROADBENT

ABOUT FACE Clockwise from top le: Patek Philippe Ref. 980R- 001, Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Contemporaine, Breguet No. 5, Blancpain Villeret Half-Hunter and Panerai 3 Days Oro Rosso.

Fashion Editor: David Farber Prop Styling: Eva Barbieradzki

For details see Sources, page 102.

The Brothers Roca The trio behind El Celler de Can Roca, voted the top restaurant in the world, is taking its avant-garde culinary show on a world tour.

BY JAY CHESHES PHOTOGRAPHY BY NACHO ALEGRE

HEN YOU REACH NUMBER ONE on the inﬂuential San Pellegrino list of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, suddenly everybody wants a piece of you. For the Roca brothers, the Catalan triumvirate whose El Celler de Can Roca, in Girona just north of Barcelona, ascended to the top spot last spring—knocking Denmark’s Noma down to number Wtwo—reservation requests hit the stratosphere overnight, with hundreds of calls pouring in daily for just 50 spots each at lunch and dinner. In February, sold out for the year, the restaurant opened up bookings for 2015. A torrent of speaking and cooking invitations followed, along with lucrative inducements to open new restaurants—in New York, Singapore, Paris, Shanghai. “Every month a new proposal comes in,” says Joan Roca, eldest brother and head chef, standing in the kitchen at lunch one recent afternoon. “I got an oer from London this morning, and I said, ‘No, thank you.’ We’ll never open another El Celler de Can Roca anywhere else.” You don’t stay number one for long by selling your soul to the highest bidder. THREE’S But all the attention, they realized, deserves a response. Joan and his broth- COMPANY The brain trust ers—Jordi on pastry, Josep on wine—devised a novel way to appease their new behind El Celler de far-ﬂung fans: They would take their restaurant on the road for a while. Can Roca. From le, In August, El Celler de Can Roca will embark on something called the Roca & head chef Joan Roca, sommelier Josep Roll World Tour 2014. First announced on their blog in December, the tour is a Roca and pastry three-year project with a corporate sponsor, Spanish bank BBVA. This summer chef Jordi Roca. GXTTXR CRXDXT GXTTXR CRXDXT

they’ll hit Mexico City, Lima, Medellin and, if all goes Jordi’s first perfume creation. well, New York. Next year they’re hoping for stops Two years ago he released his own fragrance, in Istanbul, Houston and maybe Santiago, Chile. developed with a Barcelona perfumer, based on his With 26 cooks and waiters coming along, the restau- “lemon cloud” dessert. “Anarchy,” another sweet rant will shut down for five weeks. “We prefer to be provocation, featured 50 intense disparate ele- closed,” says Joan, “it’s more honest. If the restau- ments—including black olive, chocolate, coëe, yuzu, rant travels, it’s really the restaurant that travels.” licorice, lychee—arranged with no rhyme or reason At each stop, the brothers will work closely with on a single plate. “It’s like a sociological experiment,” top local restaurants—with old friends like Enrique says Jordi. “It’s insanity, a dish with endless possibil- Olvera and Gaston Acurio as well as some new ones— ities. Everybody has a diërent experience eating it.” tailoring their food and drink to the particular locale. Each brother has his particular niche, but they’re Collaboration is, after all, in their professional DNA. forever tasting, sharing, bouncing ideas o¨ each El Celler de Can Roca may in fact be the world’s other. “I’m lucky that my brothers are so gener- most collaborative high-end restaurant, a fraternal ous,” says Josep, “to be able to go into the kitchen enterprise built on interdisciplinary cooperation. At and find someone who listens. Not everyone has every opportunity, the three brothers have eagerly that chance.” consulted each other, along with great thinkers out- As they learned to work closely together, the Rocas side their business. Fine artists customize plates had a fine example to follow: They grew up in the for their food; industrial designers and scientists restaurant business, surrounded by family—aunts, help solve kitchen conundrums. Last spring, a spe- uncles, grandmothers, cousins—who all lent a hand cial gastronomic presentation called El Somni (the at their parents’ working-class tavern, the original Dream) made its debut in Barcelona, with contribu- Can Roca. Every morning at 6:30, their father—Josep tions from a team of performers and visual artists. A Senior, a bus driver by vocation—opened up the documentary on the project premiered at the Berlin SOUL KITCHEN place, as he still does every day. Later their mother, International Film Festival in February. “I’m lucky my brothers are so generous, to be able Montserrat, would arrive in the kitchen to prepare to go into the kitchen and find someone who Though they are enjoying their moment in the listens. Not everyone has that chance,” says Josep, her simple Catalan fare. Before school and after, the spotlight, for years the Roca flagship was overshad- above, of Joan, below right, and Jordi, below le. boys were expected to do their part. owed by another sibling endeavor, Ferran and Albert Montserrat and Josep still keep their place Adrià’s nearby El Bulli, which shuttered in 2011. “The going—the food and decor are mostly unchanged, great attention Ferran got, for a long time, allowed us but the business has been buoyed by their sons’ to work quietly in the shadows,” says Joan. “When he Rocas breaking as much new ground, in their own nearby success. If you can’t get into the Roca broth- stopped being so visible it was our moment to shine.” way, as the Adriàs were but with far less fanfare. ers’ three-star Michelin restaurant, you can taste In the late ’80s Joan spent a month working with In 1995, Joan, with two friends from catering their mom’s cooking around the corner—just 10 Ferran at El Bulli, back when both chefs were just school in Girona, developed the Roner, the first seri- euros for a three-course meal. Most days around starting out. The restaurant wasn’t yet the hot- ous professional sous-vide cooking device, based on noon you’ll find all three brothers—along with bed of experimentation it would become, but, says lab equipment for keeping test tubes warm. (Sous- their entire sta¨—scarfing down lunch as I did on Josep, “we knew things were happening.” The sense vide—a cooking process developed in France in the an overcast Friday in early January. The spread of freedom, evident in the kitchen already, inspired ’70s—involves sealing ingredients in airtight plas- included fried sardines, cannelloni and pork ribs. an avant-garde shift at El Celler de Can Roca. By the tic bags and submerging them in water maintained After launching their own restaurant, the brothers mid-’90s both restaurants were exploring a mix of at precise temperatures.) A sous-vide cookbook fol- adopted the original Can Roca as their sta¨ can- cutting-edge science and high-end gastronomy—the lowed in 2003. Looking for a way to capture pure, teen—giving “family meal” a whole new meaning. concentrated aromas, Joan turned an industrial distillation device—a rotary evaporator—into a cus- tomized kitchen tool that other chefs have embraced. Josep, meanwhile, has broken just about every wine rule there is, and made up a few of his own. He mixed two wines in the same glass to come up with the perfect pairing for a complex dessert—“if we can’t find a match with one wine, why not a cocktail of wines?” he says—and once served a Pedro Ximénez stripped of its alcohol beside an eau-de-vie made from that same intense wine (“its body and soul”). Working with a chemist and a Cava producer, he developed a sparkling wine, to be poured over oysters, that’s eërvescent despite having a thick, sauce-like consistency. In 2001, youngest brother Jordi, a sort of Iberian Willy Wonka, began transforming commercial per- AT YOUR SERVICE fumes—25 in all—into a series of exuberant desserts A view into the dining based on their grace notes. The idea had started with room at El Celler de Can a passage from Patrick Süskind’s novel Perfume. “He Roca, which has broken as much gastronomic mentioned bergamot,” says Jordi, “an ingredient ground as Ferran Adrià’s we didn’t know.” A client, who sold fruit, brought El Bulli. “When Ferran in seven cases for Jordi to play with. The citrus stopped being so visible,” says Joan, “it was our aromas called to mind Josep’s cologne, Eternity moment to shine.” by Calvin Klein, which became the inspiration for

0414_WSJ_RocaBros_01.indd 94 3/4/14 6:30 PM 0414_WSJ_RocaBros_02.indd 95 3/6/14 11:28 AM 03042014173056 03062014103001 OR JOAN, who turned 50 in February, a he was born. They travel frequently—when the res- life in the kitchen seemed almost pre- taurant is open, never more than one at a time—but ordained. “He was the perfect son,” Girona is home. recalls Montserrat, “always wanting When I visited, the three men had just returned to help his mother.” Josep, two years from their annual winter break—the restaurant younger, was far more interested in kick- shutters for two weeks around Christmas. Joan had Fing a soccer ball around with his friends—he was been in New York, where he dined at Eleven Madison goalie on the local team—but he had restaurant duties Park—“fantastic,” he says—and scouted the city as a too. “He said he would have been a soccer player if he potential stop on the August world tour. Josep had didn’t have to help at the restaurant,” whispers his taken his wife, Shani, and children, Marti and Maria, mother, “but the truth is, he wasn’t that good.” He to Disneyland Paris before spending a few days in spent a lot of time in the dining room where patrons Paris where he picked up some rare Chinese tea—a gave him a nickname, Pitu—a diminutive of Josep— passion—and, from a friend, French sweetbreads. that sticks to this day. “I was an extrovert, and a (Joan would serve them that night as an o-menu spe- bit of a devil,” he says. He was also a practical joker, cial for a few friends of the house.) Jordi had brought roller-skating through the dining room while carry- his mom and dad to Mexico, to meet his new in-laws ing dishes, wearing a snorkel and mask to peel a sack in Guadalajara—last year he married Mexican pastry of onions. chef Ale Rivas, a former stagiaire at his restaurant. Jordi, 14 years younger than Joan, was just 11 Together they run Rocambolesc, a whimsical ice EARTHLY DELIGHTS in 1986 when his brothers—finished with catering cream parlor, with an outpost in Girona and one on The fruit and cactus of a prickly pear, awaiting preparation. school—decided to transform the house next to Can the beach along the Costa Brava. Roca into a restaurant of their own, the Cellar of Since winning the top spot on the 50 best list, the Can Roca. In 2000, Jordi joined them as partner and brothers have made a special eort to be in the res- pastry chef. Seven years later the restaurant moved taurant together as much as possible—a lot of side across the street into more spacious, luxurious digs, projects were put on hold last spring. “Everyone AMUSE BOUCHE a beautiful early 20th-century home with a modern comes and they want to see us,” says Joan. “We have Above: True-steamed brioche, le, and a true annex that’s all windows and light. to be respectful of patrons who’ve made a big trip bonbon. Bottom le: The fruit and cactus of a prickly In the 28 years since El Celler first launched, the to be here. It’s our responsibility.” Lately, though, pear, awaiting preparation. brothers have never strayed far from where their they’ve begun easing back into their more usual story began: Joan lives above the restaurant; Josep manic juggle. Joan has been working on a cookbook atop its first incarnation; Jordi nearby in the place for ambitious home cooks. Josep has his own book in the works, with a Catalan psychol- ranging back to the era when Joan and Josep (before ogist, exploring his theory that Jordi came on) first discovered the thrills of French “wines resemble the people who nouvelle cuisine. A seminal trip to the great country make them.” And Jordi is hoping restaurants across Spain’s northern border—icons to tackle an ice cream book. like Troisgros in Roanne and Pic in Valence—helped At the start of dinner ser- inspire upscale spins on Catalan classics, like the vice on Friday night, the kitchen rich timbale of foie gras and caramelized apple swarmed with young cooks. (circa 1993) that kicked o my dinner that night. Sous-vide baths bubbled, a wood The nostalgic dishes delivered a delicious his- fire crackled, a plancha sizzled, tory lesson, but the real fireworks—and what a rotary evaporator distilled the makes this restaurant one of the best in the world— essence of dirt. El Celler’s cooking belong to the 25 up-to-date courses on the much combines the oldest and newest longer Feast Menu, a four-hour experience I was techniques into what the Rocas served in the dining room the following night. The like to call “techno-emotional” menu features presentations as striking as the food cuisine, food that’s nostalgic itself. A black-truffle bonbon arrived inside a hol- and cerebral at once. Near the lowed-out stone, while a salad of sea anemone and entrance, a blackboard stood, razor clams spilled out over the spikes of a metal - scribbled on with brainstormed lic anemone. Langoustine tail, steamed table-side ideas for an upcoming event— in sweet Palo Cortado, filled the whole restaurant small plates for a charity party with a perfumed cloud of sherry. Sourdough ice sponsored by Macallan Scotch. cream with fried lychees quivered on an undulating “It’s important for us to have rubber pedestal—a gesture apparently intended to these sorts of collaborations,” reference living yeast, a final dose of Jordi humor. said Joan. “They provide an incen- “How does it move?” I asked my waiter. “Chinese tive for creativity. Something will battery,” he said. be left behind for the menu when One of the first tastes of the meal arrived shrouded we’re done.” in an origami globe. Inside were five tiny bites, each TOQUE SIGNALS As I pulled up a stool at a coun- a culinary tribute to a country the Rocas know and From behind the ter, I watched the preparations for love: Mexico, China, Morocco, Korea, Peru. The world restaurant, a view into the kitchen. Since a gastronomic journey down El tour, when it’s done in three years, may have hit all of earning the top spot Celler de Can Roca’s memory lane. those spots, and many others too. “It’s a present for on the 50 best list, the The Classics Menu, one of two our employees,” said Joan, “and also a way to find new brothers have made a special eort to be in the meal options available, features ideas. It’s important to change things up, to break the restaurant together the restaurant’s greatest hits routine, to break the monotony.” • as much as possible.

0414_WSJ_RocaBros_02.indd 96 3/6/14 11:28 AM 0414_WSJ_RocaBros_01.indd 97 3/4/14 6:30 PM 03062014103001 03042014173057 IMAGE CONSTRUCTION Iwan Baan photographs the world’s buildings as they are made, used and abused by people—an approach that’s made him the architecture world’s most sought-aer lensman.

BY FRED A. BERNSTEIN

0414_WSJ_IwanBaan_01.indd 98 3/3/14 7:45 PM 0414_WSJ_IwanBaan_02.indd 99 3/5/14 11:06 AM 03032014184736 03052014100806 T’S EASY TO SEE WHY Iwan Baan is called and Zaha Hadid dispatch him to photograph all of building is nearing completion—he’ll make several the Indiana Jones of architecture photog- their new projects, requiring him to fly hundreds more trips to photograph it before the ocial open- raphy. One morning in January, at a small of thousands of miles a year. Baan also finds time ing in April—and from there he began one of his airport west of Mexico City, the 39-year-old to document buildings by younger, less established regular forays to Asia. (His home and studio space Dutchman listens patiently as a helicopter architects, including Tatiana Bilbao of Mexico; is nominally in Amsterdam, but it burned down two pilot explains why he won’t be allowed to Mass Design Group, a Boston-based firm that does years ago. While it’s now almost completely rebuilt, Iopen the chopper’s door after lifto. But if he can’t pro bono work mainly in Africa; Kunlé Adeyemi, Baan has been essentially homeless in the mean- open the door, Baan explains, there’s no point to a Nigerian architect based in Amsterdam; and time.) He needs the time in the air to sort through the flight, during which he plans to shoot the city’s Tokyo’s Junya Ishigami. the thousands of shots he takes each week—though new David Chipperfield–designed Museo Jumex the By photographing buildings that might other- he sometimes shows a client his work just minutes same way he has shot dozens of other buildings—en wise escape attention, then bringing them to the or hours after completing a job—and, he says, to plein air, from 2,000 feet up. attention of editors, curators and award commit- sleep. Baan and the pilot reach a compromise: An extra tees, Baan has made unknown architects stars and His work isn’t only about architecture. Whenever crew member will come aboard to open and close known architects superstars. Firms pay Baan to he has a few days free, he shoots indigenous popu- the helicopter’s door at Baan’s document their projects, lations in settings created without the help of behest. Soon, the craft is cir- and then release his photos architects—such as Makoko, Nigeria’s floating slum, cling over the months-old “ ‘ ’ to magazines and newspa- home to 150,000 people. “I photograph these places museum, with Baan directing pers, which gobble up the in exactly the same way I photograph for Zaha Hadid complex flight patterns meant content—while completing or Herzog & de Meuron,” says Baan. “To me it’s all to give him just the right the circle by burnishing the equally important. I’m trying to document that full view of the sawtooth-roofed, .” architects’ reputations. It’s spectrum of the built environment.” travertine-clad structure. – interesting to note that Baan Fruit-drink magnate Eugenio photographed buildings by AAN GREW UP outside of Amsterdam, GLOBE-TROTTER López, the founder of the Toyo Ito of Japan and Wang Baan, a native of Holland, rarely spends more than where his father, a priest in the museum—one of Latin America’s largest for contem- Shu of China years before each of them won the three consecutive days at home. Previous page: anthroposophist movement, banned porary art—and director Patrick Charpenel Corvera Pritzker Prize, in 2013 and 2012, respectively. And A selection of Baan’s architectural photography. electronics from the house. The allure hired him for the job. Yet even after 90 minutes, that he repeatedly traveled to Japan to photograph of the forbidden may partly explain Baan isn’t satisfied. The building is set among sky- the work of 42-year-old Sou Fujimoto before he was Baan’s passion for gadgetry; as a teen- scrapers, making it particularly tricky to shoot from asked to design the Serpentine Gallery Pavilion Yantrasast, a Thai-born, Los Angeles–based archi- ager, he built his own 4x5–inch camera. He went on to

EW YORK. B above, and the shots aren’t coming out right. Back 2013 in London—an honor previously reserved for tect who has several important museum projects in study photography in college at the Royal Academy on the ground, he makes plans to charter a more decades-older ﬁgures like Frank Gehry, Jean Nouvel the works, says, “Iwan does not photograph archi- of Art, the Hague. But he dropped out when, he says, maneuverable helicopter the next morning. and Hadid. tecture, but lives lived in architecture. Just like a N FOR N his work came up against his teachers’ dislike of AA Baan, who began shooting buildings in earnest Helicopter shots are one of Baan’s trademarks, war photographer, he records critical moments.” “anything digital.”

less than a decade ago, balances politeness with even more so after he flew over New York in the And like the best war photographers, he makes it IWAN B After leaving school he held a series of unful-

relentlessness—qualities that help explain his wake of Hurricane Sandy. The resulting image, of look easy, using a mostly handheld digital Canon— BY ﬁlling jobs in commercial photography and

rapid rise in the architecture world. So compelling an eerily darkened Manhattan stricken by power the top-of-the-line EOS-1D X—and natural light, TO publishing. All the while, he maintained an inter- is his work, which depicts the world’s buildings outages, became an award-winning cover for New without the help of an assistant. Recently, his girl- est in the Internet, and when, in 2005, he learned being used, misused or even abused, that top-tier York Magazine and a poster issued by the Museum friend, the Canadian-born writer Jessica Collins, that a friend was working with Rem Koolhaas on an ZINE, PHO architects like Herzog & de Meuron, Rem Koolhaas of Modern Art. Baan always carries large amounts has been traveling with him, conducting research exhibition about the European Union, Baan wrote a of cash so he can rent helicopters even when ATMs for their self-initiated projects, while Baan plans proposal for an online version of the show. Koolhaas aren’t available. And in the event that no choppers their itineraries. This requires checking weather asked him to come by to talk about it. Visiting the are to be had, he has his own remote-controlled reports from around the world against the con- architect’s studio in Rotterdam, he says, “I got com- mini helicopter, which was specially built for him struction progress of dozens of buildings, many of pletely fascinated again with architecture. So I just by the Dutch company Aerialtronics. It is equipped them behind schedule. went for it.” with eight propellors and a camera that he can Lately, Baan has had second thoughts about pub- Koolhaas hired him to document construction of operate from the ground. He carries it from city to licizing his whereabouts. During the recent trip to the China Central Television (CCTV) Headquarters, city in a suitcase. Mexico City, just minutes after he posted a photo on the enormous building cantilevered over Beijing

Instagram, several local architects petitioned him to BER 12, 2012 ISSUE OF NEW YORK MAGA and designed by Koolhaas’s ﬁrm, OMA. The job

S MUCH AS aerial shots are a specialty extend his stay so that he could photograph their proj- OVEM required visiting the site about once every eight for Baan, he is perhaps best known ects. But there was a schedule to keep. From Mexico, weeks. It was a perfect assignment for the then- for his up-close and intimate photo- he and Collins ﬂew to Los Angeles, where he photo- 30-year-old Baan, who was intrigued not just by graphs of buildings, often with people graphed an aordable-housing project by Michael the twisting structure but also by the thousands in the frame. A construction worker Maltzan and the Hollywood outpost of Emerson of migrant construction workers ringing the site. cooking dinner at a building-site College, designed by Thom Mayne. Next came New Since he was getting paid to visit China anyway, he stove or a teenager skateboarding on a roof are the York, where he dropped in on magazine and book o¡ered his services to Herzog & de Meuron (whose

A OM LEFT: COVER OF THE N kinds of subjects that attract him, putting context editors, impressing them with shots of buildings in Olympic Bird’s Nest stadium was under construc- IN THE LOOP TT front and center and juxtaposing the messiness places as far away as Nunavut and Timbuktu. (His tion) and Holl (whose Linked Hybrid mega-structure One of Baan’s up-close shots of the Rem Koolhaas–designed CCTV Headquarters in downtown Beijing. of real life against the sleekness of cutting-edge latest exhibition, at the MARTa Herford Museum in of apartments, green spaces, a hotel and schools design. His shots of an unﬁnished skyscraper Germany, was aptly titled “52 Weeks, 52 Cities.”) “We was also being built). Soon he was indispensable to in Caracas occupied by several thousand squat- call him the candy man,” says Suzanne Stephens, the all three ﬁrms. buildings. “Those ‘distractions’ are as important And usually he does. Charpenel, an expert in con- N. N. THIS PAGE BO

ters became the talk of the 2012 International deputy editor of Architectural Record, who, with her AA As a documentary photographer, Baan some- to me as the architecture,” he says, though he occa- temporary art, was very clear that he wanted Baan’s Architecture Biennial in Venice. Baan’s work owes colleagues, can’t wait for Baan’s regular visits to the times regrets that his photos are used to glamorize sionally uses Photoshop to achieve darkroom e¡ects, photographs—and only Baan’s photographs—for more to the street photography of Alfred Stieglitz magazine’s oce. buildings rather than spark discussions of their like raising or lowering contrast. He also generally a forthcoming book about the David Chipperﬁeld LIGHTS OFF Baan used a helicopter to capture the breadth of and Eugène Atget than the perfectly composed Then it was on to Boston, where he gave a lecture strengths and weaknesses. For the same reason, he eschews retouching, largely because he doesn’t have museum. That way, he says, “You get two artists: Manhattan’s power outage following Hurricane Sandy. tableaux of 20th-century architectural photogra- at the Harvard Graduate School of Design. From sometimes tangles with architects who want him the time: “I don’t like to sit at a computer screen, so I Some people will buy the book for Chipperﬁeld, and

phers like Ezra Stoller and Julius Shulman. Kulapat Boston, he ﬂew to Glasgow, where a new Steven Holl ALL IMAGES IWAN B to digitally remove blemishes on and around their try to get the photos right the ﬁrst time.” some people will buy the book for Baan.” •

0414_WSJ_IwanBaan_02.indd 100 3/5/14 1:02 PM 0414_WSJ_IwanBaan_03.indd 101 3/5/14 5:32 PM 03052014132504 Approved with warnings 03052014163614 Advertisement

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GRANT ACHATZ The maverick chef behind Alinea and Next shares a few of his favorite things.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY PAUL OCTAVIOUS

“I’VE GOT TWO KIDS, and they think our metal pop- you might as well do it all the way. The little model play the cards as they fall, that’s kind of the story of corn popper is the greatest thing in the world. Throw car is an exact replica of a car that I rebuilt with my my life. My parents gave me that pepper mill when I a bunch of corn seeds in, put it in the fireplace and father when I was 14 in Michigan. I use my passport graduated high school. They had no idea that it was watch them pop. The porthole with the citrus was one a lot; at a minimum, you need to travel and see what actually a really good pepper mill; it’s still in my of many collaborations between myself and designer everyone else is doing, to avoid it. The spoon is one of kitchen today. I pick up those tweezers and put them Martin Kastner—it’s basically an advanced teapot the Alinea spoons that I jammed into my fireplace to in my collar every day—I use them everywhere. I’m you can infuse anything in. My team at Alinea knows fix the flue—things that happen by accident are quite very precise. Someone gave me the shark in the jar as that I love 5J brand Iberico ham, and for Christmas cool. I like to spin the Buddha mood head to remind a joke. I have an extreme fear of sharks. But I look at they got me that giant leg with the hoof still on it. It myself that at any given moment we can go from it each morning and think, Is it better to not go in, not tastes awesome. The saber is for whacking the corks happy to pissed o . Nobody really has control. The get attacked—or do I want to punch that shark in the o champagne bottles. If you’re going to celebrate, chips are there because I love to play blackjack. You face?” —As told to Christopher Ross Exclusively at SEPHORA

0414_WSJ_StillLife_01.indd 104 3/3/14 10:56 AM 03032014102934 Hermes.com

Metamorphosis, an Hermès story