SPRING 2019 Science in the Kitchen, 20 and 57

PLUS page 74 Glass Acts Glass Make it with glassware, it with glassware, Make page 59 MONEY & SENSE MONEY Meat the Future Meat The rise of alternative proteins, rise of alternative The page 52 FOOD PEOPLE FOOD Getting along with automation, Getting along Robochefs & Cyborg Servers Servers & Cyborg Robochefs

Sharing the Love of Food—Inspiring Business Success Business of Food—Inspiring Sharing the Love

FOOD page 5 Wild Things Wild Weeds for profit, for Weeds

MEET THE NEW MEAT

JERK

VEGAN IT’S

FOOD FANATICS IT’S VEGAN JERK SPRING 2019 Science in the kitchen, 20 and 57

Spring 2019 USFoods.com/foodfanatics

FOOD IN THE WEEDS Wild leafy vegetation can deliver Small business is no small task. some serious green. So Progressive offers commercial auto and business 5 insurance that makes protecting yours no big deal. IN EVERY ISSUE BACK IN THE SADDLE TREND TRACKER Local Agent | ProgressiveCommercial.com Refined Tex-Mex is riding high. 12 What’s on the radar, at high alert and fading out? BUTTERMILK IT 40 7 ways the tangy byproduct FEED THE STAFF of cream works its magic. 22 What automation means for the humans. 52 FROM FRINGE TO FASHIONABLE PR MACHINE How to be vegan-friendly in the Cash in on the membership new world order. 30 movement. 65 BEYOND THE PLATE FOOD PEOPLE Honesty is the only policy CHILD’S PLAY for food labels. Experiences win over 70 the 7 and under set. 43 ASK THE EXPERTS Intel on front and back of the SPEAK EASY house issues. Q&A with a chef on why giving back 69 matters. 48 IHELP Apps that take the hassle out of ROAD TRIP! filling and swapping shifts. New Orleans is so much more than 73 Cajun and Creole. 56 I’LL DRINK TO THAT! Glassware that raises the bar. ON THE COVER MONEY & SENSE 74 Celeriac is a dead- ringer for beef jerky, MEAT THE FUTURE BY THE NUMBERS full of flavor especially Get ahead with plant-based proteins. Delivery that delivers. dipped in horseradish 59 76 cream. It’s winning fans among those THE ABCS OF GEN Z eating more plant- Learn about this new breed of based foods for the worker. good of the planet.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY EVA KOLENKO EVA BY PHOTOGRAPHY 66 See recipe on page 36.

Progressive Casualty Ins. Co. & Af liates. Business and Workers’ Compensation coverage provided and serviced by af liated and third party insurers. liated and third by af and serviced provided Compensation coverage Workers’ Business and liates. Af & Co. Casualty Ins. Progressive USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 1 Food Fanatics® Spring Edition is Here!

They say each new year offers us a chance to start fresh, so with our The delicious first issue of 2019, we are taking a deeper look at the new and different USFoods.com/foodfanatics ways restaurants are grabbing the attention of diners.

US FOODS ADVISORY BOARD Some operators are starting from the ground up, literally, with weeds is baked in President and Chief Executive Officer Serve country-fresh flavor all day with Hilltop Hearth® Pietro Satriano and plant-based offerings taking over menus across the country. Chief Merchandising Officer Southern Style Biscuits. Available in multiple sizes, these Andrew Iacobucci From dandelions to milkweed – weeds are inexpensive and perfect ready-to-bake biscuits bring the ultimate convenience Senior Vice President, Marketing Diane Hund to your kitchen and dependably deliver flaky, buttermilk for eco- and health-conscious diners. What’s more, talented chefs are Senior Vice President, Innovation and Quality leveraging their versatility and using them in all kinds of applications delight to your diners – every time. Stacie Sopinka Vice President, Creative from grilling to garnishing. Jovo Balach

Manager, Content Marketing Jasmine Jones And while we’re talking plant-based offerings, our cover story on vegan-friendly menus should catch your attention. Diners who identify CHEF CONTRIBUTORS/RESTAURANT OPERATION CONSULTANTS Steve Affixio, Tampa, FL themselves as vegan have grown from 1% to 6% in recent years. Find Jeffrey S. Bland, Salem, VA Robert Frye, Fishers, IN out what’s driving this increase and how to ensure your menu satisfies Laura Kron, Cincinnati Maria O’Rourke, Jackson, MS meat and non-meat eaters alike. Lance Reynolds, Phoenix Jeffrey Schlissel, Boca Raton, FL Convenience is an increasingly important driver of repeat business. PUBLISHING PARTNER Feedback We welcome your comments. In the article, You, Robot, we dive into how technology is fueling a Contact Food Fanatics at: [email protected] new standard in restaurant convenience. From mobile apps and Content Chief Laura Yee Contact Bite This Media at: [email protected] self-ordering kiosks to meals prepared by robots – automation in Contributing Editor restaurants is on the rise and is predicted to boost efficiencies, Peter Gianopulos Unless otherwise specified, all correspondence sent to Food Contributing Writers Fanatics is assumed for publication consistency and overall customer satisfaction. Lisa Arnett and becomes the copyright Kate Bernot property of US Foods. Min Casey Amber Gibson Advertising Information Finally, robots can’t do it all – your staff is still essential, and they want Alison Grant For rates and a media kit, contact Matt Kirouac Jasmine Jones, (847) 720-2578 or it easy too. In our iHelp section, we break down the best apps for Novid Parsi email [email protected]. Megan Rowe Food Fanatics is the go-to source staff scheduling, including Homebase, which is part of our CHECK™ Mike Sula for the foodservice industry and anyone truly passionate about Business Tools suite of products, all of which are aimed at helping Copy Editor food, food people and improving Natalie Jew the bottom line. Issued quarterly make the lives of restaurateurs - and their staffs - easier. and hand-delivered to readers, the Cover Photography magazine is a US Foods publication Eva Kolenko produced by Bite This Media. Wishing you all the best this new year! Photographers For more information on the Eva Kolenko Food Fanatics program, visit Frank Lawlor USFoods.com/foodfanatics. All rights reserved. © Until next time,

About US Foods US Foods is one of America’s great food companies and a leading foodservice distributor, partnering with approximately 250,000 chefs, restaurateurs and foodservice operators to help their businesses succeed. With nearly 25,000 employees and more than 60 locations, US Foods provides its customers with a broad and innovative food offering and a comprehensive suite of e-commerce, technology and business solutions. US Foods is headquartered in Rosemont, Illinois, and generates approximately $25 billion in annual revenue. Discover more at www. Andrew Iacobucci usfoods.com. For more information, contact your Chief Merchandising Officer US Foods® Representative or Save Time. US Foods® Order Online! usfoods.com

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Contact your Cargill Foodservice Sales Representative today or call 800-227-4455. WEEDS USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 5 © 2019 Cargill All Rights Reserved WHERE THE WILD WILD THINGS ARE SHISO For a kitchen that’s up for IF YOU’RE SEARCHING a makeover, quit the kale, SWEET CICELY for inexpensive, full-bodied ingredients Quick and easy prep can elevate a variety cut the cauliflower and back that will separate your menu from the of dishes, such as the versatile wild green away from the Brussels seasonal masses, just look at your feet. verde Chef Greg Proechel makes at Ferris sprouts. Add some of There, you will find that the pesky in New York or the shot of henbit—which these wild greens to your weeds overriding your garden, the tastes like sweet carrot tops—that Sous repertoire instead. forgotten greens fringing the sides of Chef Tim Welch sprinkles across his menu roads and the resilient leaves that break— at Emmer & Rye in Austin, Texas. SERVICEBERRY wild and defiant—through the cracks Says Chef-owner Davin Waite of the A slightly sweet flavor of urban sidewalks, have real culinary Wrench, Rodent Seabasstropub, The profile—reminiscent of blue- potential. They are prevalent in certain Whet Noodle and Pickled Ginger Catering berries and raspberries— enclaves and ethnic cuisines but haven’t in Oceanside, California: “Adding these benefits fruit pies, turnovers DANDELION made a significant impact in American greens to your menu is like going from a and galettes. concepts until recently. small box of crayons to working with a box Wild and foraged greens—from sassafras of 120.” WILD SHISO and purslane to milkweed and dandelion— “Some are subtle; some are big. But they Also called perilla, the minty are becoming walk-in staples much like always give you a larger arsenal to find brightly flavored leaves ramps and fiddlehead ferns. They’re ultra- that perfect bite we’re all looking for,” with hints of cinnamon local, cost-effective, considered healthy Waite says. Spring is waiting. It’s time to and clove are friends of and align with eco-friendly philosophies. start stocking up. desserts, fruity drinks, tea and fermented beverages, including kombucha. ARUGULA

SWEET CICELY Similar to angelica, but in the raw, it gives off a licorice PARSNIP root flavor that is an ideal ❱ DANDELION additive in cocktails. On the precipice of going mainstream, dandelions are abundant, healthy CHICKWEED (good sources of vitamins A and C) and Reminiscent of sorrel or pea inexpensive, but Chef Davin Waite also shoots, these mild greens appreciates the green’s slight bitterness for have a distinctive field pea counteracting rich flavors and proteins. flavor, but their soft stem works as a garnish or salad PURSLANE BEST PREP: “If you’re cooking something topper. sweet and you need to bring it back down in the other direction, dandelions are SEA ROCKET perfect,” says Waite. Not only do they This succulent, found in soak up animal fat better than collard salty areas by the ocean, greens, they work well as the foundation can add crispness and lilts for vegetable entrees. Waite sautes them of salinity. Works especially with sweet onions, then adds honey and well as the base of versatile WILD tamarind glaze for a gluten-free dish that’s verde sauce. MUSTARD as rich as any center of the plate protein. WILD MUSTARD INSIDER TIP: Pick dandelion greens early, Add these greens, which before they bake and turn bitter in the hover between horseradish summer sun. Throw them on the grill, like and wasabi on the spice a peach, to caramelize any excess sugars scale, to a wok for a or fire them up in a pan and deglaze with a peppery stir-fry or as a sweet cooking wine. garnish for nigiri.

6 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2019 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 7 Try flash-frying ❱ SASSAFRAS Wild Green Cilbir wild greens, Chefs like Brandon Carter and forager Chef Larry Hanes including Josh Heaton, co-owners of Farm in Bluff- Eggshell Bistro, Carmel, Indiana milkweed, sweet cicely ton, South Carolina, have discovered what or purslane, Creole cooks have long known: Powder 1 quart full-fat unflavored yogurt to create an made from fresh sassafras tastes as bright 1 small bunch parsley, finely chopped aromatic side. and refreshing as a woodsy spearmint. 1 bunch fresh dill, finely chopped 7 crushed garlic cloves, divided use BEST PREP: The difference between dried 1 teaspoon olive oil sassafras powder and one made from fresh 3 cups milkweed or wild purslane sassafras, says Carter, is “night and day.” ¼ cup butter To make his own, Carter dries the leaves ¼ cup coconut oil in a low-heat oven or above a wood grill. 2 tablespoons red pepper flakes Once they’re almost brittle, the leaves are Sun-dried pesto, recipe follows ground and added to a variety of dishes, 2 eggs, sunny-side up such as the fried oyster gumbo. Small handful of goat cheese Freshly squeezed lemon juice, to taste INSIDER TIP: Don’t let the root of the Sweet cicely, for garnish sassafras go to waste. At Farm, they’re Toasted baguette combined with Everclear, cane sugar and more than a dozen botanicals before the Combine yogurt with parsley, dill and 5 ingredients are infused sous vide-style. crushed garlic cloves in a large bowl; set The root serves as a garnish for the house’s aside. In a large saute pan, heat olive oil. Old-Fashioned. “Sassafras can be almost Mince remaining garlic and add to the pan, pleasantly medicinal,” says Heaton. “You ❱ MILKWEED being careful not to burn. Add greens and can smell the flavor almost more than Few wild edibles on the brunch menu stir rapidly for about 1 minute until slightly you can taste it, which gives you plenty of at Eggshell Bistro in Carmel, Indiana, charred. Remove from heat. options.” provide the beauty and versatility of milkweed, says Chef Larry Hanes. Prized Melt butter and coconut oil in a small pot by Native Americans, milkweed flowers and stir in red pepper flakes, cooking over bloom in early summer, yet Hanes low heat for about 3 minutes; set aside. prefers wetting unblooomed milkweed and quickly flash-frying it in hot oil with Scoop a generous portion of yogurt mixture garlic. In addition to releasing spring- on plate and top with equal amount of sun- worthy aromas, the milkweed imbues dried tomato pesto. Top with eggs, greens dishes with a Broccolini-like flavor. and pesto. Think rapini without the bitterness. Scatter crumbled goat cheese over the dish BEST PREP: Milkweed’s verdant taste and drizzle coconut-butter pepper flake marries well with robust Middle Eastern sauce atop. Finish with squeeze of fresh and Mediterranean flavors. Hanes lemon juice and sweet cicely. Pair with crisp prepares a cilbir—Turkish poached eggs grilled baguette or toast. Makes 1 serving with yogurt—then adds a sun-dried with leftover ingredients. tomato pesto and coconut oil sauce before adding Aleppo peppers, goat For sun-dried pesto: Combine 17 ounces cheese and more milkweed. sun-dried tomato, 1 cup Parmigiano Reggiano, ½ cup high-quality olive INSIDER TIP: Although milkweed grows oil, ½ cup slivered unsalted almonds, wild, Hanes cultivates it in his garden so 2 tablespoons high-quality tahini, and he can apply it to his flower centerpieces. cracked black pepper and kosher salt Seeing displayed wild greens help to taste in food processor. Process until waiters sell cautious diners on trying smooth but still chunky. Adjust seasonings. wild greens. Makes 3 cups.

8 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2019 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 9 Trending buttermilk (See page 22) gets play here as an espuma.

USING LOCAL EDIBLE GREENS CAN SET YOUR MENU APART. THE PRICE OF GROWING VEGETABLES Sweet Potatoes with Wild Green Verde AND HERBS, ESPECIALLY Chef Greg Proechel THINGS LIKE BASIL, CAN Ferris, New York BE EXPENSIVE BUT THESE ¼ cup dried anchovies CAN BE MUCH CHEAPER, ½ pound sweet potato, preferably Okinawa ESPECIALLY IF YOU HAVE ½ cup cilantro THE TIME TO PICK THEM ¼ cup foraged greens, your choice Scallion tops YOURSELF. 4 pieces Thai bird chili —Tim Welch, sous chef at Emmer & Rye, 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Austin, Texas Butter, as needed Salt, as needed Buttermilk espuma, recipe follows 1 tablespoon sliced chives Freshly ground black pepper, as needed Finishing oil, as needed

Fry anchovies at 350 F for 15 seconds; chop and set aside.

Bake potatoes in a preheated 350 F oven on bed of salt; cover in foil for 45 minutes.

Combine greens, herbs and chili in a food processor to make verde, scraping sides ❱ PURSLANE with a spatula to ensure it is ground. Add Purslane, a thick-leafed staple of Middle Eastern cuisine, thrives in hot and sunny oil and pulse a few times; refrigerate. conditions, which is why it overruns Southern California. For years, Nathan Pietso, a second-generation farmer who operates Farmhouse restaurant in Los Angeles, tried Slice potatoes and grill until lightly charred. to obliterate it until he was served a purslane salad in Lebanon. It awakened him to the Transfer to a tray with a few knobs of weed’s captivatingly briny flavor and unique texture: a delicately snappy structure that butter and roast in a preheated 425 F oven can yield an okra-like slipperiness. for 4 minutes. Season with salt and top potato with verde and anchovies. Garnish BEST PREP: Although purslane can be sauteed or grilled as a side, Pietso likes it raw. with espuma and finish with chives, black He dresses his purslane and avocado salad with olive oil and moats it with a feta cheese pepper and finishing oil. Makes 2 servings. dressing. “In a bowl, purslane looks unique, almost like landscaping,” he says. “It also forks well, which is why it works so well in a salad.” For buttermilk espuma: Whisk 1 cup buttermilk, ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil INSIDER TIP: Since purslane is nuisance for farmers, it’s often inexpensive at farmers and 1 tablespoon lemon juice in a bowl markets. But avoid thick-stemmed leaves. As they turn red, they become overtly gooey. On and season with salt to taste. Pour into a the flipside, try highlighting purslane’s high levels of vitamin C and folic acid to appeal to whipped cream dispenser to make foam. health-conscious diners and using the term “volunteer greens” to draw extra attention. n

10 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2019 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 11 At Javelina in New York, Chef Matt Post upscales chili con carne, the mother sauce of Tex-Mex, with chopped beef. THE POT THICKENS

Tex-Mex’s revival uncovered

BY NOVID PARSI PHOTOGRAPHY BY EVA KOLENKO EVA BY PHOTOGRAPHY

USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 13 Skirt steak is ground and shaped into patties for a textural and flavor switch up from the usual burger. SAY “TEX-MEX,” and most people conjure up images of greasy, low- Fajita Burger quality food that’s Mexican-ish at best. Executive Chef Alex Padilla “A lot of people have this idea of Tex-Mex as gut The Original Ninfa’s on bombs on a plate—it’s heavy, it’s not good for you,” Navigation, Houston says José Ralat, the Dallas-based author of the upcoming book “American Tacos,” (University of 10 ounces ground fajita Texas Press). “That’s not true anymore.” skirt steak If anything, Tex-Mex has become more refined 1 teaspoon flour in recent years. A rise in scratch sauces, infusions 1 medium egg of higher-end ingredients and an openness to 1 tablespoon breadcrumbs subverting tradition has elevated Tex-Mex from Kosher salt, as needed a “been-there, ate that” standby into a cuisine Freshly ground black capable of tapping into diners’ growing love for Latin pepper, as needed American spices, chilies and queso. 2 ounces Oaxaca cheese According to 2018 study by Datassential, Tex-Mex ½ ounce garlic butter appears on 39 percent of menus but 54 percent of 1 whole poblano pepper, diners say they “love” or “like” the cuisine. Thus grilled, sliced into strips opportunities abound to slip Tex-Mex into all kinds 2 to 3 slices red onion, of concepts, from breakfast spots and brunch menus grilled to barbecue joints or chef-driven small plates. 1 challah bun 1 tablespoon chipotle Make a Better Chili Sauce Oaxaca cheese Chipotle mayonnaise mayonnaise Traditional Mexican chili sauce made with boiled ½ avocado, sliced peppers evolved into chili con carne, which generally Garlic butter consists of beef, tomato paste, garlic, onion and celery (see photo on page 12). Consider it the Tex- Combine ground beef, Mex version of marinara—apply it to anything. Poblano peppers flour, egg and breadcrumbs At Javelina in New York, Chef Matt Post loads his Season with salt and pepper chili with chopped beef and enough spices—Spanish and form 2 patties. paprika, Mexican oregano, cumin, cloves, all-spice Salt and more—to rival an old-school mole. “You can Cook on flat grill at 375 also use the chili con carne in a Fritos pie—which is F until medium-rare or very Texan,” Post says. Just top Fritos chips with the medium, about 5 minutes chili, diced onion and shredded cheese. each side. Place cheese on patty to melt; remove and Tortilla Power Challah bun let rest. Here’s the perennial query: “Do you want corn or flour tortillas?” The answer, when it comes to Tex- Melt the garlic butter and Mex, is both. The tortillas for enchiladas are made add peppers and onions. with corn, while flour tortillas come on the side. Saute until tender. “The flour tortillas are like the bread component— you use them to sop up the beans and rice,” says Toast challah bun; spread Nancy Nichols, a Dallas-based author who has mayo on bottom slice. Avocado written about Texas food for over two decades. The flour tortilla speaks to Texas’ proximity to Place grilled patties on northern Mexico, where flour is more common bottom slice; top with than in the rest of the country. A sign of the new- onions, peppers and and improved, fresher Tex-Mex, Ralat says, is a avocado. Makes 1 burger. restaurant that makes its own tortillas—“with corn sourced from Mexico,” he says. KOLENKO EVA BY PHOTOGRAPHY

14 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2019 CHILI-INFUSED CHOCOLATE GANACHE CUPCAKES featuring RO*TEL® Original Diced Tomatoes & Green Chilies BIG FLAVOR, A thing of legend— corn tortillas puffed in the fryer and paired with queso— can be found in Ford Fry’s new cookbook, BIG SURPRISES “Tex-Mex: Traditions, Innovations, and Comfort Foods WITH RO*TEL® AS AN INGREDIENT South of the Border,” (Clarkson Potter).

Get the recipe and more on the new cookbook at USFoods.com/ foodfanatics.

Tex-Mex cuisine is up 149% on ﬁ ne dining menus over the past four years*. It’s time to think beyond nachos and burritos and spice up your offerings with an exciting new dessert! Try RO*TEL® Original Diced Tomatoes & Green Chilies as a zesty ingredient that can be used across your menu—even in unexpected applications like these Chili-infused Chocolate Ganache Cupcakes.

US FOODS PRODUCT DESCRIPTION PACK SIZE ITEM NUMBER RO*TEL® Diced Tomatoes 8268518 12/28 oz & Green Chilies

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOHNNY AUTRY JOHNNY BY PHOTOGRAPHY For more information about RO*TEL Original

Diced Tomatoes & Green Chilies, please © 2019 Conagra Brands, Inc. All rights reserved. 16 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2019 contact your local US Foods representative. *Datassential MenuTrends, U.S. menu penetration growth 2014-2018.

18_CFS_0860_Rotel_FoodFanatics_Print_Ad_011618.indd 1 1/30/19 9:22 AM Get the word on Ford Fry’s new Queso Fundido with Bacon At Superica, Chef Ford Fry goes one cookbook, “Tex- step further by making bacon-fat tortillas, Mex: Traditions, Fat Tortilla Innovations, and Chef-owner Ford Fry which are paired with a queso fundido Comfort Foods Superica, Atlanta, Charlotte, Houston made with chanterelle mushrooms. Fry South of the Border,” heaps on the serrano chili, thyme and (Clarkson Potter) 2 tablespoons unsalted butter melted Chihuahua cheese, which gives the at USFoods.com/ 6 ounces chanterelle, hen-of-the- foodfanatics. dish a spicy-garden-sweet twang to offset woods or black trumpet mush the funkiness of the mushrooms. It’s proof brooms, cut into large pieces that everything—even a Tex-Mex staple— 2 sprigs thyme can benefit from a little extra earthiness Kosher salt and an undercurrent of bacon. 8 ounces Chihuahua cheese, shredded Create a Combo 1 serrano chili, thinly sliced The standard bearer of the Tex-Mex ¼ cup cilantro leaves table—as well as the dish often used Bacon-fat tortillas, recipe follows to judge the worth of any Tex-Mex restaurant—is the house’s combo platter. Breakfast In a medium skillet, melt butter. Add The standard template includes a cheese tacos from mushrooms and thyme and cook over enchilada covered in chili con carne, a Thunderbird in moderately high heat, undisturbed, crispy beef taco or tamale, refried beans, TEX- Los Angeles. until lightly browned, about 2 yellow rice and guacamole on top of minutes. Season mushrooms with salt shredded iceberg lettuce (a “guacamole and cook, tossing occasionally, until salad”). For a combo that delivers more, MEX browned and crisp, about 6 minutes. look to Garcia’s in San Antonio, which Transfer to paper towel-lined plate; serves two cheese enchiladas and a pork discard thyme sprigs. tamale, all under chili con carne and even GETS more cheese, plus a crispy beef taco, rice, In a small cast-iron skillet, broil the and beans cooked in lard and bacon fat. cheese 8 inches from a preheated broiler until just melted, about All Day Tacos MORE 1 minute. Top cheese with the Anyone can pile an egg scramble and mushrooms, chili and cilantro and sausage into a tortilla and call it a breakfast serve immediately with the warm taco. With tacos reaching a saturation MEX tortillas. point, you need to get more creative. At In Texas, Tex-Mex is Thunderbird in Los Angeles, cage-free increasingly drawing more To make bacon-fat tortillas: local eggs become a French omelet filled inspiration from south-of-the- Combine 1 cup of flour and ¾ with housemade chorizo and cheese. border flavors. teaspoon of kosher salt. Rub 2 The eggs and chorizo are topped with tablespoons cold rendered bacon queso Oaxaca, salsa ranchera, cilantro Here are three easy ways to fat and 2 tablespoons vegetable and shoestring potatoes, and served with ensure you properly capture shortening into flour until mixture country potatoes and a mixed green salad. Tex-Mex’s mixed heritage. is crumbly. Slowly add ½ cup warm It’s a hulking dish—some of breakfast’s water at medium speed until ball greatest hits on one plate—that has value ❱ Use Mexican black beans forms, adding more flour if necessary; and novelty, but it also underscores rather than traditional Texan the dough will be moist but should Thunderbird’s from-scratch ethos and its pinto. pull away from side of bowl. Knead commitment to using humanely raised until dough is smooth, shiny and products—two qualities Angelenos prize. ❱ Instead of the ubiquitous elastic, about 10 minutes. Cover with “I feel that cooking the eggs and processed American plastic wrap and rest for 45 minutes. chorizo in this style really elevates the queso, swap in Oaxaca and Press out large rounded tablespoons dish and takes away from your standard Chihuahua cheeses. of dough with tortilla press. Cook egg scramble,” says Chef-owner Justin tortillas in batches over moderately Farmer. “Customers love the contrast ❱ Skip the common high heat in a cast-iron skillet, turning of the rich, fluffy eggs and the crunchy Mediterranean oregano, once, until lightly browned. Makes 6 shoestring potato fries on top.” in favor of the more floral

PHOTOGRAPHY BY EVA KOLENKO EVA BY PHOTOGRAPHY tortillas. Mexican oregano.

18 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2019 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 19 shatter YES, LARD STANDARDS It’s not true Tex-Mex cooking if you’re not using lard, says Nancy Nichols, a Dallas-based author who studies Texas food trends and history.

For authentic refried beans, boil them first, then fry them in lard. Then make sure to look for a bit of a Tex-Mex sheen, says Ford Fry, owner of Superica in Atlanta. “The beans should be on the looser side and packed with housemade lard so it shines a little bit,” he says.

Ronnie Killen’s Short-rib Tamales Short rib upscales the Chef-owner Ronnie Killen tamales at Killen’s TMX, Pearland, Texas Killen’s TMX. 6 dozen dried corn husks 10 pounds masa 1 teaspoon baking powder Burgers Cross Borders ½ cup salt In 2012, while on a flight from Los Angeles to Houston, Ninfa’s Executive 2 pounds lard Chef Alex Padilla fell asleep craving a burger. “I had a dream I was eating a 2 cups chicken broth fajita burger,” he says. So when Padilla landed, he created his own. Padilla 14 pounds short rib, cooked and uses eggs and breading to hold the meat together since skirt steak, which String or corn husk strips for tying tamales typically is used for fajitas, doesn’t have as much fat as regular beef. “The poblano and Oaxaca cheese add that extra little bit of Tex-Mex flavor,” Padilla Soak corn husks in hot water until pliable, about 30 says. “Burgers are Americans’ fast-food choice, but this adds the rich flavors minutes; drain. of fajitas. It’s like sharing both cultures.” Combine masa, baking powder and salt in large bowl. Bring on the Tex-Mex Q Add masa to lard, alternating with chicken broth. Mix When barbecue legend Ronnie Killen opened his first Tex-Mex restaurant, well until masa is consistency of playdough; set aside. Killen’s TMX in Pearland, Texas, last fall, he insisted on making everything from scratch—eschewing chili powders for fire-roasted peppers and housemade To assemble tamales, spread ¼-inch thickness of chili sauces. Killen’s TMX also makes the masa for its corn tortillas. masa to cover a 4x4-inch square, about 3 ounces, in But the real evolution began at his sister restaurant, Killen’s Barbecue, where center of husk. Spoon about 3 ounces meat on the he conjured up everything from short-rib tamales to brisket enchiladas. No masa. Tightly fold sides, vertically, so masa encloses one had tried that before, says Killen, but when they hit the menu they sold meat filling. Fold husk on the bottom edge over the artisan’s beef phenomenally. If you’re going to smoke things, go with post oak and pecan wood. and tie with string or corn husk strips. Repeat with “Tex-Mex is changing, and it’s huge right now, especially in the barbecue scene,” remaining corn husks. Cover steamer and steam Killen says, noting chef-driven trends like wagyu brisket tacos. “You didn’t used tamales, bottom side down, for about 1 hour. Makes to have classically trained chefs making Tex-Mex. Now you do.” n about 75 tamales. LERMA ROBERT BY PHOTOGRAPHY @STERLINGSILVERPREMIUMMEATS #STERLINGSILVERPREMIUMMEATS STERLINGSILVERMEATS.COM

BUTTERMILK IT 7 ways the byproduct of cream can work its magic far beyond biscuits and fried chicken BY AMBER GIBSON

BUTTERMILK IS CHURNING its way onto all kinds of menus, becoming an all- daypart powerhouse of an ingredient in the process. Its unique ability to simultaneously imbue moisture, impart tang and improve the texture of certain foods, is giving it newfound street cred. In days past, buttermilk was nothing more than the thin, milky leftover liquid from churning butter, analogous to the whey produced from making cheese. But today, the cultured buttermilk that chefs use is much thicker. It’sSquash supremely blossom economical, a little can go a long way—ifpizza from you’re Serious adept at using it. Check out thesePie seven in Seattle. ways to get started. PHOTOGRAPHY BY EVA KOLENKO EVA BY PHOTOGRAPHY

22 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2019 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 23 Liquid doesn’t need much, so we wanted to keep Buttermilk Snow with Coffee nitrogen turns 01 CUT THE FAT it clean and crisp, but do ‘clean’ a little Roasted Spring Beets buttermilk into Chef Ethan Mantle at Componere Fine different from just lemon or vinegar.” The Chef Vinson Petrillo, “snow,” which adds contrast Catering in Emeryville, California, uses buttermilk helps buoy an oyster’s already Zero Restaurant + Bar, Charleston, South and drama to low-fat buttermilk in place of heavy cream briny flavor like few other condiments can. Carolina the plate. for quiche because it delivers a tangy flavor and a third less fat. He recommends 5 pounds medium beets, preferably swapping equal parts buttermilk for 04 ICE IT yellow, orange, red or chioggia cream and then pairing caramelized onion At Zero Restaurant + Bar in Charleston, Dark roasted coffee beans, as needed and chard with peppered bacon. “The South Carolina, Chef Vinson Petrillo turns ¼ cup red wine vinegar buttermilk adds more flavor than heavy buttermilk into “snow” to add drama ¼ cup sugar cream,” he says. “And with less fat, (it) to the plate. A mix of cream cheese and 1 star anise allows you to add bacon without making it buttermilk is infused with horseradish, ½ cup cream cheese a gut bomb.” pureed and strained before it’s aerated in ¼ cup horseradish, grated a whipped cream canister and frozen with 1 teaspoon kosher salt liquid nitrogen. The resulting garnish is 1 cup of housemade buttermilk, recipe 02 POACH FOR TENDERNESS an Instagram-worthy accompaniment follows that works with everything from beets Liquid nitrogen, as needed Buttermilk is an ideal poaching agent to coffee-roasted carrots and pickled Flaky sea salt, as needed for just about anything that requires blueberries. tenderness, from seafood and chicken to Wash and dry beets. In a Dutch oven or veal and offal. Chef James Martin of The baking dish, completely cover the beets Darling in Chicago poaches sweetbreads 05 COUNTER THE RICHNESS with coffee beans. Cover in foil and cook in buttermilk before frying them for his in preheated 425 F oven until tender, po’boy sandwich. At Proxi in Chicago, Chef-partner about 1 hour. Cool. “When you combine buttermilk with Andrew Zimmerman adds an extra jolt of stock over a low fire cooked to medium, it acid to his street-food-inspired fish curry In a small pot, bring vinegar, sugar, ½ cup creates a brining effect and is particularly by substituting buttermilk for sour cream. water and star anise to a boil and transfer useful before battering and frying your “The delicate acidic edge that buttermilk dressing to another container to cool. Peel meat of choice in oil,” he explains. “This has is a natural for seafood,” Zimmerman beets while still warm and tear the beets keeps the meat tender and draws more says. “The body that we lost by subbing into pieces. complex flavors forward due to the buttermilk for sour cream is made up by high acid, sugar and fat content in the adding pureed onion. The onion also adds a Beat cream cheese, horseradish and salt buttermilk. It’s really hard to overcook or bit of sweetness to balance the acidity.” The until smooth and slowly add the buttermilk burn anything when you use buttermilk, resulting flavors are balanced and acidic to combine. Pass through a fine-mesh even for fried chicken, because of the without the need for tamarind or kokum. strainer and add liquid to a whipped cream intense moisture that it provides.” dispenser and charge twice.

Using an insulated bowl, carefully pour 03 WORK THE ACID 1½ liters of liquid nitrogen into the bowl. When Chef Daniel Gorman was growing Working quickly, dispense the horseradish up in the Carolinas, buttermilk was used buttermilk into the liquid nitrogen and in salad dressings or as a simple marinade crush with metal whisk. Transfer frozen for fried seafood. “I love using it as a form 19 horseradish buttermilk to blender and spin of acid,” he says, “because it can add tang, on high for 5 seconds or so until frozen brightness and even a touch of funk to so buttermilk turns to “snow.” Keep frozen many things.” At the top of Gorman’s list? until ready to use. Adding it to raw cold-water oysters. At Henley in Nashville, Tennessee, Season the beets with the vinegar he infuses buttermilk with dill, pink dressing and finish with flaky sea salt. Top peppercorns and lemon peel to make a with buttermilk snow. light yet creamy dressing, then adds a half teaspoon to each oyster along with a tiny PERCENTAGE OF MENUS THAT To make housemade buttermilk: Blend 2 quenelle of cucumber relish. “Salt and acid MENTION BUTTERMILK cups whole milk with 3 tablespoons lemon are two things that take good seafood from juice and ¼ teaspoon citric acid; allow to

OK to incredible,” he says. “A good oyster Source: Datassential rest for 1 hour. KOLENKO EVA BY PHOTOGRAPHY

24 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2019 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 25 Pan-Roasted Stone Bass with 06 MORE WAYS TO ZIP Buttermilk Curry At Nico Osteria in Chicago, Pastry Chef Leigh Chef-partner Andrew Zimmerman Omilinsky not only uses buttermilk to add “a Proxi, Chicago lactic yet acidic flavor” to her lemon sherbet but also imbues her sourdough bombolini—made with 1 cup vegetable oil, plus 3 tablespoons, divided use a 10-year-old sourdough starter—with a little 3 medium onions, thinly sliced extra zip. The dough is already a bit sour, but the Kosher salt, as needed buttermilk adds creamier sour notes thanks to its 1 teaspoon asafoetida lactic properties. And since there is no fat, it does not 2 teaspoons ground fenugreek break down any gluten development, which makes it MENU 2 teaspoons turmeric, divided use much softer. 2 teaspoons cayenne, divided use SAMPLER ½ teaspoon dry fenugreek leaves Buttermilk ice cream 3 cups tomato puree 07 ANOTHER WAY TO RICOTTA with bumbleberry 2 cups buttermilk compote and 2 tablespoons garlic, microplaned Making ricotta is one of the simplest ways to pie cracklings 1 tablespoon ground cumin differentiate a menu, but buttermilk ricotta takes Whitebird, 1 tablespoon ground coriander things one step further. Instead of using lemon Chattanooga, 2 teaspoons dried mango powder or vinegar to curdle the cheese, try buttermilk. Tennessee 4 6-ounce filets Stone bass or firm white fish Housemade buttermilk ricotta is a versatile Cilantro leaves, as needed foundation for any number of lighter, subtly savory Charred cabbage 4 cups basmati rice, cooked desserts. Serve it with local honeycomb like at Little Caesar salad, shio Eater in Columbus, Ohio, or substitute for cream kombu, green In a medium-sized pot, heat ½ cup oil and sweat cheese in buttermilk ricotta cheesecake like at Easy goddess and foie gras onions with a few pinches of salt until soft but not Bistro & Bar in Chattanooga, Tennessee. “I grew buttermilk brown. Add asafoetida, cook 1 minute and add 1 up on buttermilk pie,” says Chef Erik Niel of Easy Senia, Honolulu tablespoon salt, fenugreek, 1 teaspoon turmeric, ½ Bistro. “Using buttermilk to make ricotta makes to 1 teaspoon cayenne and fenugreek leaves until it more airy, light, fluffy and savory. Since you’re Smoked chicken fragrant. Add tomato and cook down until the mixture turning the buttermilk into cheese, you need high quesadilla with is reduced and tiny drops of oil are breaking out. Add quality, true cultured, full-fat buttermilk.” bacon, poblano chili 4 cups water and reduce the mixture by one-third, rajas, Jack cheese, about 15 minutes. Add buttermilk and simmer the buttermilk crema, curry base for another 5 minutes. green onions and charred tomato salsa In a separate pan, heat 3 tablespoons oil to gently Cactus Southwest cook the garlic until lightly browned. Stir the garlic and I LOVE USING (IT) AS Kitchen + Bar, Seattle oil into the curry base; keep warm. A FORM OF ACID BE- area, multiple locations Combine cumin, coriander, mango powder and Raw diver scallops, remaining 1 teaspoon turmeric and season filets on CAUSE IT CAN ADD TANG, buttermilk, poppy the skin side along with salt as desired. Heat remaining seeds, green yuzu ½ cup oil or as needed in saute pan on medium-high kosho, white soy heat and sear filets skin-side down, being careful to BRIGHTNESS AND EVEN and chives manage the heat so that the skin crisps up without Serpico, Philadelphia burning the spices. Flip the fish and cook it until just A TOUCH OF FUNK TO SO done. Put the fish in shallow bowls and pool some of the sauce around it. Garnish with cilantro leaves and MANY THINGS. serve with rice. Makes 4 servings. —Chef Daniel Gorman of Henley in Nashville, Tennessee PHOTOGRAPHY BY EVA KOLENKO EVA BY PHOTOGRAPHY

26 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2019 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 27 TM

21.7 TM PERCENTAGE OF MENUS EXPECTED Deliciously soft. TO INCLUDE tons of toppings. BUTTERMILK BY 2022 Source: Datassential whoa.

Load’d SundaesTM Unites the #1 Dessert, Ice Cream, with the Love of Sundaes* Dressed Buttermilk Oysters 58% Chef Daniel Gorman 43% 41% Henley, Nashville, Tennessee 34% 29% 29% 27% 1 cup cultured buttermilk 21% 2 tablespoons pink peppercorns, cracked 13% 2 teaspoons kosher salt 6% 6% 9% 2 dill sprigs 2 thyme springs Gelato Frozen

2 lemon peels Sundae Novelty Milkshake So Serve So Oysters, your choice, shucked Cream Ice Cucumber relish, recipe follows % who love % favorite Dill oil, recipe follows

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Dress each oyster with a teaspoon of seasoned buttermilk, a few drops of dill oil and a small quenelle of the cucumber relish.

To make the cucumber relish: Combine 1 cup fine-diced cucumber with 1 ounce red wine vinegar, 2 teaspoons sugar, 1 teaspoon chopped dill and 1 teaspoon Order information kosher salt. Chill at least 1 hour before Product Pack Size US Foods Item # Blue Bunny Item # serving. Chocolate Brownie BombTM 12/8.5 fl. oz. 6777770 1200105 ® To make the dill oil: Combine 1 cup dill Bunny Tracks 12/8.5 fl. oz. 4494564 1200094 and 1 cup oil in high-speed blender; puree Cookie Crunch 'N Fudge 12/8.5 fl. oz. 8291327 1200112 on high for a few minutes; strain with fine- Mint Chocolate Chunk 12/8.5 fl. oz. 5828191 1200137 mesh strainer, then a coffee filter. n Strawberry Shortcake 12/8.5 fl. oz. 6967809 1200144 PHOTOGRAPHY BY ED HENLEY Marshmallow Crispy Bar 12/8.5 fl. oz. 9187613 1200151

28 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2019 ©2019 Wells Enterprises, Inc. All rights reserved. 01/19 *Source: Datassential SCORES™ database, May 2017. Normative scores shown, with 100 = max possible score. Percentile scores based on comparison among 1500 desserts. Get the recipe for Salt-brined Celtuce and Nightshades on page 36. COVER STORY

FROM FRINGE

How to beTO vegan-friendly FASHIONABLE in the new world order BY MIKE SULA PHOTOGRAPHY BY EVA KOLENKO

30 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2019 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 31 RULE NO. 1: OFFER ALTERNATIVES

Take a cue from the Owlery in Bloomington, Indiana, which accommodates with dairy-free alternatives. Co-owner Toby Foster and his partner make vegan cheese by pureeing cashews and silken tofu with nutritional yeast for nachos. A vegan cheese is available for its grilled cheese sandwich with spinach and tomato and tofu can stand in for NOT eggs. RULE NO. 2: SPECIALIZE IN A SPECIALTY

In most cities, it’s easy to find vegan spots specializing in seasonal American fare. Such a concentration, however, creates opportunities for LONG specialty cuisines. Chef Gregory Brown and his wife, Naijha Wright, found a niche in Baltimore by serving vegan soul food at Land of Kush. To do it right, they experimented with cooking meat substitutes at festivals around the city. “By the time we were ready to open up, people were anticipating us,” he says. Now well established, their biggest sellers are AGO,if vegans got roped into a restaurant meal with their carnivore barbecue “rib tips” made from textured vegetable friends, they were stuck ordering side dishes or french fries protein as well as a riff on a Charm City favorite: (assuming they weren’t cooked in tallow). “crab” cakes made from shredded seitan, paprika These days, those opting for a bona fide vegan meal are scaling and Old Bay seasoning, bound with vegan mayo and the top of the food chain. When furniture giant Ikea offers a mustard, then pan-fried. Initially, the cakes were vegan hot dog that customers praise instead of deride and a offered only on weekends to test the waters, but their plant-based burger is becoming commonplace, it’s easy to see popularity catapulted them onto the daily menu. that veganism is the new bacon. Those identifying as vegan grew to 6 percent from 1 percent RULE NO. 3: STAY UP ON MICRO TRENDS nationwide from 2014 to 2017, according to research firm GlobalData. While the number is small, plenty of other statistics Three years ago, when cardiologist Dr. Joel Kahn support the notion that consumers are eating more plant-based opened GreenSpace Cafe in Ferndale, Michigan, he foods even if not all of them are self-proclaimed vegans. Data was a pioneer, offering upscale vegan dishes like red from nonprofit Good Foods Institute reports a 23 percent lentil shorba, with coriander, sumac, cashew lebneh increase in sales of plant-based foods last year, making the and chimichurri as well as a forest mushroom alternatives to animal-based foods, including meat, cheese, milk gnocchi dish with baby kale, English peas and and eggs, a $3.7 billion market. almond Parmesan. But over time he noticed an Interest in meatless options can be attributed to a variety of increase in new customers who seemed baffled by factors, from improving health to countering the environmental some of the less familiar ingredients. impact of the meat and seafood industries. While the masses “The market has changed,” he says. “The blue aren’t protesting honey harvesting on behalf of bees, vegan foods collar bar down the street has the Impossible are in demand. Customers won’t settle for side dishes as meals or Burger. We could see all these first-timers looking Celeriac Jerky with food that looks and tastes like wet cardboard. at the menu and not really getting it. ‘What’s a Horseradish Cream While you may be tempted to move meat out of dishes and jackfruit enchilada?’ We wanted to make it really makes for a meaty hope for the best, you’re better off taking a holistic approach (See simple for them.” snack. Turn to page story on page 59). Consider these cardinal commandments to Last fall, they revised the menu with fully 36 for the recipe. step up your vegan game. veganized interpretations of familiar items like

32 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2019 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 33 A vegan take on the banh mi.

the Reuben sandwich with tempeh, sauerkraut, RULE NO. 6: GET SCRAPPY SIGN OF THE “cheez” and Thousand Island dressing; and a seitan calzone. These are fast food analogues, Food costs remain low at Farm Spirit in Portland, VEGAN TIMES but Kahn’s reputation precedes him. “People Oregon, which traffics in local and seasonal ❱ In October, Sodexo understand that the difference here is this food vegetables. Chef-owner Aaron Adams offers an $89 rolled plant-based is being made special. It’s largely organic, and multi-course tasting, beginning with five snacks menus across its derived from as many whole foods as possible.” (celeriac jerky), multiple savory courses (salt-brined foodservice accounts celtuce with coriander flowers), a few desserts at hundreds of RULE NO. 4: MIRROR THE TRENDS (carrot ice cream) and a piece of breakfast bread universities, healthcare for the next morning. Many sauces and purees are facilities and corporate Most diners need an occasional sweet fix. When made from fermented scraps to reduce food waste. offices. The menus Chef Adam Sobel started Cinnamon Snail in “We’re able to use the off ends and make new and feature 200 plant-based 2010, he lured non-vegans to his food truck with interesting preparations we can serve rather than options. pastries, believing that once they got hooked on throw in the garbage,” he says. the sweets, they’d turn to his innovative meatless High-end tasting menu formats tend to attract ❱ Vegan pioneers options. Now with two New York City brick-and- guests not even thinking about veganism. “The Rich Landau and Kate mortar locations and a separate prep kitchen, his majority of our diners are not vegan,” he says. “We Jacoby of Philadelphia’s doughnuts are positioned as a “gateway drug” to have a great number of vegans that come in for fine dining Vedge are lure in non-vegans. special occasions, but more often than not people giving the masses a Sobel employs the usual plant-based meat don’t know we’re vegan.” taste of their creativity substitutes in complex flavor profiles like a basil at Wiz Kid, a fast grilled-tofu banh mi or his gochujang-glazed RULE NO. 7: KEEP IT HARDY casual restaurant they crispy seitan sandwich, a riff on Korean fried launched in 2017. chicken. Beans and lentils cooked in a flavorful vegetable Their signature item He dredges a tamari and sea vegetable stock can be used as a component to create center- features a vegan Philly marinated seitan filet in flour, then it goes in a of-the-plate vegetable or plant-based proteins for cheesesteak: seitan, soy milk batter before it’s toasted and seasoned hearty entrees. mushrooms, onion, in breadcrumbs. When it’s fried, it takes on At the Owlery, Foster shoots for a hardy approach pickled peppers and a multiple levels of texture. And once it’s glazed in with a Moroccan stew, thick with sweet potato, rutabaga wiz resembling spicy Korean pepper paste, it’s served on a grilled zucchini, carrots and chickpeas. “This is based off (in body only) the iconic pretzel bun with kimchi, pickled red onions, of something my mom makes,” says Foster. “It’s sandwich’s Cheez Whiz. arugula and Sriracha mayo. probably my favorite soup that we make.” Given the “I wanted to attract people who otherwise diners’ enthusiastic response, it seems to be theirs ❱ By Chloe, a New York would have some stigma against going into a as well. City-based vegan fast vegan restaurant,” he says. “My target is to blow casual restaurant, is someone’s mind who has never had excellent expanding beyond vegan food.” Manhattan, London and the East and West RULE NO. 5: LET VEGETABLES SHINE coasts. Its seasonal menu of salads, pastas, Some cooks, like Chef de Cuisine Tim Deasas, PEOPLE WHO IDENTIFY AS VEGAN sandwiches, snacks eschew meat substitutes, relying on seasonal and breakfast items or local produce instead. A menu of vegetable- will spread its focus focused small plates at New York City’s Avant % % beyond vegans. “Now Garden allows for a better price point and we want to target prevents flavor boredom. Diners are encouraged people with health to order four to five dishes each, such as the allergies and different paella with merguez-marinated king trumpet tolerances, and start mushrooms or celery root with a shiitake veloute, to focus on paleo, nut- topped with a fried and dehydrated mushroom 12014 62017 free, gluten-free, or gremolata. The house stock is meat-free, built on carb-free diets,” says whatever vegetables are in the walk-in, a process Source: GlobalData Corporate Executive that saves considerably on already low food costs. Chef Manuel Trevino.

34 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2019 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 35 Salt Brined Celtuce Celeriac Jerky with Vegan Banh Mi with Nightshades Horseradish Cream Consulting Chef Jeffrey Schlissel Chef-owner Aaron Adams Chef-owner Aaron Adams Vegan Eats Farm Spirit, Portland Farm Spirit, Portland Delray Beach, Florida

3 stalks celtuce Extra-virgin olive oil, as needed 4 ounces vegan butter Extra-virgin olive oil, as needed 4 onions, quartered 2 ounces extra-virgin olive oil 1 cup onion, diced small 4 carrots, quartered 1 pound shiitake mushrooms, sliced 1 cup eggplant, diced small 3 beets, quartered 1 pound cremini mushrooms, sliced 1 cup bell pepper, (orange yellow, red), 2 tomatoes, quartered 2 ounces onion, chopped diced small 2 kohlrabi, quartered 1 ounce garlic, chopped Good morning breakfast sandwich Sriracha slaw burger ½ cup sun-dried tomatoes, diced small 1 head of garlic, halved Kosher salt, as needed ® ® 2 tablespoons garlic oil 1 pint pinot vinegar 8 ounces vegan cream cheese Featuring MorningStar Farms Original Sausage Pattie Featuring MorningStar Farms Spicy Black Bean Burger USF # 1140284 USF # 4708509 Kosher salt and freshly ground 1 pint verjus ½ ounce herbes de Provence black pepper, as needed 5 celeriac, peeled and thinly sliced to Zest of 1 lemon Coriander flowers, as needed 1x2-inch strips 2 ounces pistachios, slightly crushed Horseradish cream, recipe follows 1 vegan sausage, seared and Peel celtuce and cut into rectangular bars. sliced lengthwise Bring 4 quarts of water to a boil with 1 Drizzle oil over the onions, carrots, beets, 1 baguette, split percent salt. Pour over the celtuce; cool. tomatoes and kohlrabi and roast in a Pickled vegetables, recipe follows preheated 425 F oven for 30 minutes. Cilantro leaves Heat oil in saute pan and sweat the onions Transfer to a stock pot, add 6 quarts water until tender. Add eggplant, peppers and and garlic and simmer 1 hour. Heat butter and oil in a rondeau on high tomatoes and cook until the nightshades are heat and sear mushrooms, cooking for a few creamy but still retains some shape. Strain vegetables and reduce the vegetable minutes and add onions and garlic. Saute for Be Plant Proud. All Day Long. stock with the vinegar and wine until lightly a few minutes, season with salt, and reduce Season with garlic oil, salt and pepper. thickened and sweet. Add celeriac and to medium heat to cook 7 to 10 more Serve the celtuce with the nightshades and simmer until tender. minutes or until mushrooms are tender. garnish with coriander flowers. Makes 6 servings. Dehydrate at 165 F until fully dry. Rehydrate Stir in cream cheese, remove from heat in a few tablespoons of the reduction and add herbs de Provence and zest. and smoke with applewood. Serve with Transfer to a food processor, pulse to mix horseradish cream. Makes 6 servings. but leave mixture somewhat chunky to resemble pate. Stir in pistachios and mix To make horseradish cream: Combine 1 well. Cool and set aside. MY TARGET pint vinegar and 1 pint verjus and add 4 percent salt. Peel 1 pound horseradish and To build the banh mi, toast the baguette in a food processor, chop into small pieces. and then spread the “pate” on top. IS TO BLOW Add to vinegar mixture and ferment for 3 Lay the “sausage” on the bottom. Place days. Heat a few tablespoons olive oil in a pickled vegetables on top of the sausage. SOMEONE’S MIND pot, add 6 sliced onions and cook covered Top with cilantro, cut sandwich in half and until very sweet and soft. Strain horseradish serve. Makes 1 sandwich with pate for WHO HAS NEVER and blend with onions. Return vegetables to additional sandwiches. the food processor and while the machine is HAD EXCELLENT on, drizzle in 1 cup of oil. Season with salt. To make pickled vegetables: Combine 1 ounce julienned English cucumber, ½ VEGAN FOOD. ounce julienned carrots, ½ ounce thinly sliced red onion and ½ ounce sliced —Chef Adam Sobel of Cinnamon Snail in Manhattan jalapeno with 4 ounces rice vinegar, 1 K-Town Chili Nachos stuffed eggplant parmesan teaspoon sugar and kosher salt to taste. ® Allow to stand 1 hour before serving. n Featuring MorningStar Farms Sausage Style Crumbles Featuring MorningStar Farms® Signature Blend Tomato Basil Mozzarella USF # 696888 USF # 8938481 Also Available: MorningStar Farms® Signature Blend Vegan Spicy Red Bean USF # 3814194

To learn more about these products contact your US Foods® TM or visit: www.USFoods.com/order

36 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2019 For more information and recipes visit: www.KelloggSpecialtyChannels.comUSFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 37 ®, TM, ©, 2019 Kellogg NA Co. SPONSORED BY TM UNLIKE THE COW, WHICH WILL NEVER GET BETTER, WE LEVERAGED THE LATEST THE IMPOSSIBLE TECHNOLOGY SO THAT CHEFS AND CONSUMERS COULD HAVE A PRODUCT AS DELICIOUS OR EVEN BETTER THAN A BURGER. STRIKES TWICE —David Lee, COO and CFO of California-based Impossible Foods The new iteration of this plant-based protein Change the wrapper and the seasoning shows endless possibilities and it becomes a dumpling, lumpia or empanada. The versatility allows chefs to riff on Bolognese, shepherd’s pie, pizza toppings, tacos or stand-alone meatballs like the ones served at San that has a significantly lower environ- Francisco’s Bar Bacco. mental impact. “Our interest was initially sparked by “Restaurants from fast casual spots the idea that it would help with some to fine dining institutions are seeking of the environmental effects associated out alternatives to meat and dairy,” says with more traditionally raised beef,” Tal Ronnen, chef-owner of Crossroads says Staffan Turje, chef at the Italian in Los Angeles and a consulting chef at concept. “Most people coming in to Wynn Las Vegas. “I have friends who try our polpette made with Impossible BARBACCO BY PHOTOGRAPHY are chefs from across the country that Foods meat were diners who had never are hitting me up now for recipes and tried it before and wanted to see what product ideas.” all of the excitement was about.” The impetus to reformulate an already successful product came from the The Impossible Original desire to make the plant protein more from Crossroads. ideal for preparations other than the flattop, such as grilling or sauteing. A THE WORD ON PLANT- plant-based steak is next. THE NEW NEW Chefs agree that the new version can BASED PROTEIN stand in for any application that calls WHY IT’S BETTER OF CONSUMERS for ground beef whether it’s the iconic believe meat ❱ diner-style meatloaf, Greek moussaka, % consumption should Higher quality soy protein Moroccan kefta or a traditional Korean be limited replaced wheat protein, Source: Datassential Impossible bulgogi. 68 making it beefier in texture Cigars from Inspiration comes from travel, up- Crossroads in OF THE Los Angeles. bringing and specialty. For Ronnen, it’s PEOPLE ❱ Sunflower oil added, which memories of the cooking by a Moroc- who regularly reduces the amount of total can caretaker during the eight years eat plant- and saturated fat growing up in Israel. His Impossible based proteins bites into the new Impossible Burger and swears that it Cigars (left) are wrapped in brik dough, 43 WHEN A DINER ❱ 30% less sodium and 40% couldn’t be anything but beef, the company breaks into a round of high-fives. commonly used in the Middle East. The OF THEM less saturated fat. That’s the intent of Impossible Foods’ reformulated plant-based protein: a recipe Impossible meat protein is seasoned ARE NOT vegan even closer to beef in flavor and texture than the original that debuted in 2016. As with spices, including cumin, ginger and % or vegetarian. For more inspiration and menu ideas, it becomes increasingly clear that customers are down with the Impossible (97 per- turmeric, along with shallots, onions check out impossiblefoods.com Source: NPD cent of orders go to carnivores), chefs are eager to get more creative with a protein and garlic. LAWLOR FRANK BY PHOTOGRAPHY 86

USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 39 TREND TRACKER ON THE RADAR HIGH ALERT IT’S NOT FUNK PERSONAL Diners are no longer VIPs. It’s their data— demographics, dining behavior and preferences—that matter more. THIS > TRY THIS INSTEAD: Make sure your POS Fermented foods enter system or other resource can interpret your their next stage as data—it’s crucial for the bottom line. chefs delve deeper into CHEESY manipulating flavors. No food is microbe- ONE HAT, MANY ROLES immune. Restaurant workers are the new IS GOOD > LAST SEEN: Seattle’s HIGH ON CANNABIS multi-taskers, hired and trained to What’s dairy-free and Made from Tarsan i Jane offers CBD, the non- handle multiple jobs in the front fat-free that tastes Tomato es a fermented carrot psychoactive part of and back of the house. like cheese but isn’t? course (confit, kimchi marijuana, is taking Nutritional yeast, the and guacamole), while the industry by storm fermented wonder that San Francisco’s Tartine > LAST SEEN: adds cheesy umami YOU Manufactory menus Mostly beverage and flavor. steak tartare, pickled dessert menus—for FEEL celery root and crispy now. FAKE ME? lotus root egg toast. Besides good LIKING LICHENS food and Found in forests service, today’s worldwide, this IS REAL restaurants are fungus is growing The surging appeal of plant- adding another beyond industrial based burgers among carnivores element: Doing uses. Beware of is paving the way for other lab- good for the SIZE MATTERS its many varieties grown foods. greater good. High-priced puny plates meant for and misnomers; > LAST SEEN: See page 59. > LAST SEEN: sharing are so 2018. Value, however, IN YOUR only certain kinds Proceeds never goes out of style. are edible. from the > TRY THIS INSTEAD: Increase FACE LAST SEEN: famous World portions with lower food cost. Rub collagen into your European sole Peace Peanut skin or down it? Eating with squash Muscovado INTO THE WILD what you wear is getting blossoms milk at State From the cracks of STICKS AND STONES a makeover. and lichen moss Bird Provisions sidewalks to ambling Hate on kale all you want but there’s no > LAST SEEN: Vanilla at Rebel Kitchen makes the meadows, wild greens are denying it’s a nutritional powerhouse. collagen powder in a in Knoxville, San Francisco shedding their nuisance Just don’t make a fuss and call it a green. smoothie near you. Tennessee. restaurant status. carbon neutral. > LAST SEEN: See page 5. FADING OUT FADING

40 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2019 FOOD CHiLd’S PEOPLE GOOD CLEAN FUN PlaY Experiences win over the 7 and under set BY LISA ARNETT

The Monogram® Kid’s Cup is the perfect size for little hands to hold. With its tip-resistant profile and spill-stopper lid, wet floor signs will become a thing of the past. It includes a reusable lid, flex straw and a colorful cup with a search-and-find activity to keep kids entertained during the entire meal. For more information, visit usfoods.com or contact your US Foods® representative and reference the product number 7941537.

EXCLUSIVE The Park Hyatt New York serves pasta with a side BRAND of kid’s literature. © 2019 US Foods, Inc. 01-2019-FOF-2019011105 Kids learn Southern table community, what manners, via drives your business,” books and says Natalie Freihon, instruction, at Brennan’s in managing partner New Orleans of Basic Kitchen in Charleston, South Carolina. “Those are the people who are loyal to you.” Tiny Tables To• drive family traffic to its Sunday brunch, Vernon’s at Sawgrass Marriott Golf Resort & Spa in Ponte Vedra Beach, Florida, added a kids- only station. It brings the buffet down to their level, literally, with a 2-foot-tall table and craft projects built around a weekly food theme. “We also have an electric pancake maker with a little window that allows kids to watch as the pancakes cook,” says Robin Jones, senior restaurant manager. At $8.50 per child, Sawgrass isn’t making much money, Jones says, but kids often beg their parents to return, which keeps their parents coming back, often with additional family members in tow. hungry parents are harboring a profitable secret: They don’t want to stop dining out Petite Pizzaiolos just because they have young children— •The only thing kids love more than and they’d rather not be stuck with kiddie pizza is pizza-making. Urban Kitchen Attention to Organic and Allergens has seen young families grow as a dining Books go with get a medal and chef’s hat and he was very eateries either. Although Generation Z Group’s restaurants—including its •No matter how diverse palates are segment. In 2010, young people stopped in breakfast at the Park much looking forward to accomplishing may be a growing target, it’s the under 7 California-based Cucina Enotecas— today, smaller kids still want staples such for late-night eats after a night of partying. Hyatt in New York. that.” Alex’s choice for his birthday this set that’s driving operators to go beyond offer the A Modo Mio (“my way” in as chicken strips or pasta and sauce. But “Now, they are coming with their growing year? Lawry’s, of course. crayons and coloring sheet menus. Italian) experience where kids top their improve on the standbys by making them families and keeping The Meatball Shop “There are parents who want to still pizzas and watch chefs cook them. “It organic, all-natural, sustainable or locally part of their lifestyle,” says Natasha Miller, Course it Out maintain the same lifestyle and pleasures used to be that a night out meant that sourced to appeal to parents. Attention to the concept’s marketing director. Kids •When parents choose the $86 seven- they had before they had kids—and for couples would leave the kids at home, allergens will also score with them. create their own meatball meal by marking course tasting menu at Trummer’s, their many of us, me included, that was dining but that’s changed,” says Tracy Borkum, Basic Kitchen’s kids’ menu offers healthy up the mini meatball menu. The food itself children can opt for a $38 five-course out,” says Victoria Trummer, owner of principal of Urban Kitchen Group. “(This options—think grilled chicken with veggie is the same as for adults, just in smaller IT’S ABOUT Petit Gourmand tasting menu. “I think a Trummer’s on Main in Clifton, Virginia. experience) teaches them about food noodles and brown rice—but servers are portions. meal is so much more than just food,” says According to the National Restaurant and new ingredients and it opens their trained to chat up parents about children’s CREATING AN Trummer. “It’s the time you’re spending Association, about 60 percent of minds to try new things.” At Stella Barra preferences and customize allergy-friendly Junior Rewards EXPERIENCE AND together, experiencing different flavors restaurant-goers named “child- Pizzeria—which has locations in Illinois, plates on the fly, like a vegan grilled cheese •When Chicagoans Van and Cindy Do dine or textures or trying new things.” The friendliness” as a factor when deciding California and Maryland—parents can on gluten-free bread. “(Allergies) can be at Lawry’s The Prime Rib in Chicago, they A MEMORY FOR menu changes, but meals often end with a where to dine. To cement youthful loyalties steal a moment alone while kids roll out stressful so we train our staff incredibly accrue points through the Lawry’s VIP CHILDREN AND Campfire S’mores roasted tableside. and keep them coming back, restaurants dough and collaborate with chefs. “It’s well to identify allergies and know how to Rewards. Thanks to Lawry’s Junior Carver are engaging pint-sized diners with hands- kind of like a babysitter ” says Stella work around them,” says Freihon. program, their son Alex now has his own FAMILIES. Low-Tech Lit —Patricia Galas of the Park • on or visual experiences and providing the Barra’s partner Corey Milner. “It’s not punch card and can earn a free meal, medal Hyatt in New York City While tablets may be today’s go-to grown-ups with frequent diner incentives an extra dollar expense (to offer this), Mini-me Menus and chef’s hat after four meals. “It turned distraction, old-school books can create hand innovative menu choices. but I would say it takes extra focus and •The Meatball Shop, with locations in it into a game for him,” Van says. “He knew irreplaceable memories. The Living Room

“The family is what drives the patience from the chef.” New York City and Washington, D.C., NEW YORK HYATT BY PARK PHOTOGRAPHY there was a prize at the end where he would at the Park Hyatt New York teamed up with

44 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2019 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 45 Four meals book publisher Phaidon to offer “Feed Your enjoyed at Mind + Stuff Your Tummy,” a $35 three- Lawry’s in course prix-fixe meal with a book kids can Chicago earns take home. Courses range from classic kids special POWER OF THE PLATE (chicken noodle soup, spaghetti, sundae) to medals of honor. Monogram® molded bagasse ﬁber plates are built for the biggest meals. adventurous (kale salad, salmon bento box, miniature eclairs) and eight book options Hardy enough to take on extra helpings, they also offer understated elegance for different ages. “It’s about creating an and the responsible convenience of a disposable, fully compostable product. experience and a memory for children and families,” says Patricia Galas, director of So pile on, sauce up and don’t wait for seconds. marketing communications, “which will then hopefully make you want to come back and tell your friends and be loyal.” n

KiDDing aROuND

Encourage your servers to

engage with young diners, BY VERNONS (BOTTOM) PHOTOGRAPHY (TOP) BY LAWRY’S PHOTOGRAPHY which wins brownie points with Mom and Dad.

Keep Wi-Fi passwords simple—no multiple caps, underscores, letters or signs—so parents can hand over their iPads.

Siphon off space for stroller parking so kids can squirrel around a bit. For more information, contact your US Foods® Representative or Save Time. Order Online! usfoods.com No one likes to bring their own sippy cup, so make Gummy fish and lidded cups available. marshmallow treats get a EXCLUSIVE creative spin at Vernon’s in Ponte Vedra Beach, Florida. BRAND

46 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2019 Q. What separated one path from the next for you?

A. My adolescence was around a lot of tough characters—everything was negative or violence or aggression or disrespect. None of it was positive. I stared working at 14, washing dishes in a restaurant. Cooking was something I knew I was good at, and I had a positive role model who led me to want that positive attention and validation again and again.

Q. How did you score the scholarship for culinary school?

A. I moved to Phoenix and got into a voca- Four by Brother tional program in high school. C-CAP (Careers Luck is known for mentoring in Culinary Arts Program) had a program in Ari- and not judging zona working with a lot of inner-city kids there. a troubled past. Part of the award was from C-CAP, $15,000 and matched by other culinary competitions.

BROTHER LUCK IS FAMILIAR WITH LOSS AND THE FEELING OF BEING MARGINALIZED. His father Q. This helped form the values behind died when he was 10. His mother worked to support the family, but that left plenty of your own business? opportunities to be influenced by the crime and violence in his Oakland, California, THE BEST neighborhood. But he also knows firsthand that a chance can make a profound difference, one that will A. As a business owner you have the op- This chef moves the under- open doors. Then it’s hard work, he says, adding, “it’s all on you to make it happen.” portunity to really build a culture. And that is That’s why his kind of A-listers stand out in the industry: High school students, adrift everything. As we started to grow and further served to the front of the line or not, individuals with a criminal record, veterans and basically anyone with barriers to our company, values are really important. When employment will get a chance with Luck at his restaurants, including the recently opened it comes to staffing—knowing that I come from OF LUCK PHOTOGRAPHY BY FRANK LAWLOR Lucky Dumpling. Here, Luck discusses why he’s been stepping up. a vocational school that made it click for me—I 48 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2019 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 49 want to make sure kids have the opportunity A diverse staff at Four by Brother that I did. I work with a lot of high school kids. Luck is intentional. gimme We’re mentoring (high school) culinary teams— crispy & DELICIOUS two members are working in a restaurant—and they’re learning skills that will last them a lifetime. On top of that, we work with a youth all the way to my door. organization—kids in the system, kids from a broken home or in a tough living situation. We bring them in, they work with local chefs, we have them work in charity events and in our kitchens all to learn skills and get that positive 30% of customers skip delivery feedback and encouragement that will help fries for fear they will be soggy.* them see their potential. That’s our culture.

Q. Your culture and community involve- ment, though, extends beyond high school students?

A. Fort Carson is close by, so we do a vocational program with the cooks there. They MORE spend 45 days with us to learn what this industry has to offer, and it’s amazing to watch them go back to their dining facilities and cook with ABOUT newfound inspirations. The last two guys got shipped to Afghanistan and are cooking there. LUCK It feels special to be a part of such amazing life-changing moments. ❱ Graduate of the Art Institute of Phoenix and a certified executive chef Q. Some restaurateurs are giving back through the American Culi- by giving second chances to people who nary Federation. are otherwise turned away by employers. What’s your take on that? ❱ Opened Brother Luck Street Eats followed by Four By Brother Luck and A. Our kitchen is really diverse. People with most recently Brother Luck a troubled past? We don’t judge. We have one Dumplings in Colorado guy who spent 10 years in prison but just got Springs, Colorado. He’s 35. out, getting his life together. He heard about us, got a job washing dishes and we’re helping him ❱ Contestant on Bra- fill out forms (financial aid for college). Those vo’s “Top Chef” and Food are the kinds of people I’m really proud of. Network’s “Chopped.” Won Food Network’s “Beat Bob- Q. Do you have a mantra that you live by? by Flay.” ❱ Worked at hotels and re- A. I received a compliment once that’s sorts around the world for stuck me with. After we started a culinary high 12 years to taste and learn school competition, someone thanked me for about other cuisines. being consistent. I love that—it sums up what TO CREATE OPPORTUNITIES for we need to be doing as leaders: Be consistent. ❱ Brother is a name passed teen recruits or the underserved, Hold yourself accountable to what you say down from his grandfather visit Careers Through Culinary you are and what people expect. A lot of the and father. Family lore has it Introducing Crispy on Delivery fries. A groundbreaking solution that combines revolutionary people who need help are used to being aban- Arts at ccapinc.org or the National that Luck was the plantation coating, innovative packaging, and delivery support for fries that stay crispy up to 30 minutes.† doned. When you offer help, be accessible. If Restaurant Association’s Prostart at name given to his father’s you can’t be, say when you are and follow up. chooserestaurants.org/prostart ancestors. Contact our fry experts at LambWeston.com/FryExperts

*Delivery A&U, 2016 †Optimal consumer liking intervals based on sensory tests 2015 & 2017: 50 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2019 ©2019 Lamb Weston Holdings, Inc. All rights reserved. delivery cup necessary for achieving 30 minutes of crispiness Robotic kitchens DON’T LOOK NOW, but the long- like the one anticipated artificial intelligence-fueled at Spyce in food industry of tomorrow may be taking Boston, below and opposite root today. In this robotic brave new world, page, promise many facets of the dining experience are precision and minimizing the need for human hands. consistency. Mobile apps and self-order kiosks are on You, Robot the rise—Burger King is installing them in its updated Burger King of Tomorrow locations—and meals prepared at least Plugging staff into the in part by robotics are less of a novelty. Self-driving pizza delivery cars are already iRestaurant Revolution hitting city streets, and UberEats could BY KATE BERNOT deliver sushi or salads to your door by drone as soon as 2021. Proponents of restaurant automation say the changes will boost efficiencies, consistency and customer satisfaction. Critics say we’re headed for a soulless, all-digital future. Predictions aside, there will be human costs whenever machines replace manpower. Here are some insights on operations already blending the two.

SPYCE/ FUNDING TO EXPAND

$21 MILLION On the Line Automation Boston-based Spyce uses robotic kitchens to prepare sauteed bowl-style meals.

HOW IT WORKS: Customers order from a kiosk, specifying their menu selections, customizing ingredients and noting dietary restrictions or allergies. Each customer is then assigned to a wok. Robotic arms select ingredients from “hoppers” and saute them at 450 to 500 F. An employee restocks hoppers, adds garnishes, packages the order and labels the customer’s name to the order.

ADVANTAGES: The robotic technology protects humans from potentially dangerously high temperatures, ensures consistent and precise preparations and

PHOTOGRAPHY BY SPYCE FOOD CO BY SPYCE PHOTOGRAPHY makes introducing new offerings as easy

52 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2019 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 53 Next- generation kiosks, like those at eatsa, allow for extreme customization.

BEAR ROBOTICS / INCREASE IN SATISFACTION %

A digital status board shows the stage of each customer’s order; once ready, guests receive a cubby number. A double-tap of 4 the cubby’s surface opens to reveal their bowl or salad. Remember New York City automats? Eatsa is similar—only sleeker. Mechanical Servers/ ADVANTAGES: The completely integrated, multi-platform ordering system Food Runners encourages the use of apps (Eatsa’s mobile Bear Robotics, a California-based company, orders represent 40 to 45 percent of uses artificial intelligence to develop Although a total business), reduces labor, increases restaurant technology. bit short on personality, throughput and speeds up the customer Bear Robotics’ experience. The system also consolidates HOW IT WORKS: AI-powered robotic robot food multiple digital ordering platforms into servers help employees deliver orders to runners can one integrated back of house workflow. By tables, acting essentially as food runners. reduce staffing costs. tracking both order-level and customer- Founder and CEO John Ha tested the

level data, the tech can better catalogue concept at his former restaurant, Kang BY BEAR ROBOTICS PHOTOGRAPHY diners’ preferences. Nam Tofu House in Milpitas, California. What began as simple plywood-and-wire HUMANS BEWARE: Eatsa says it employs prototypes developed into sleek robots that Bionic Bartenders Robotic arms select the necessary liquid the same number of people as other resemble Disney’s WALL-E character but Tipsy Robot is a fully-automated cocktail ingredients from more than 100 bottles restaurants but makes their roles more with flat surfaces for carrying plates. bar. Tasks ranging from drink-shaking to suspended from the bar’s ceiling. In about efficient. There’s typically one “greeter” in citrus-peel-garnishing are completed by 70 seconds, the cocktail is built, shaken or the restaurant, with additional staff behind ADVANTAGES: Robotic food runners free robotics and other tech. The company also stirred, garnished and pushed toward the the scenes prepping food. The company up staff to concentrate on more cognitively provides technology to bars aboard Royal customer through a slot in the bar. says it enables 50 percent higher peak intense tasks, such as taking orders and Caribbean cruise ships. as reprogramming software. In theory, 21st-Century capacity with less staff stress than a typical answering menu questions. The robotic ADVANTAGES: Overpours and wasted the system reduces labor costs as well as quick service or fast food restaurant. assistants also solved staffing conundrums, HOW IT WORKS: Customers place orders on alcohol are eliminated when the process is the square footage needed for kitchens, Automats filling in during shifts when, for example, tablets at the bar or through a mobile app. robotized. There’s also the novelty factor, which may keep prices low for consumers Eatsa operates two automated, health- three servers wouldn’t individually earn with robotic arms and huge digital displays (a bowl meal costs $7.50). conscious fast-casual restaurants in San enough in tips but two servers would feel BIONIC BARTENDER that guests tend to photograph and share Francisco and provides technology—mobile EATSA’S MOBILE ORDERS REPRESENT overwhelmed. Tip averages per check on social media. HUMANS BEWARE: Only two to five ordering, kiosk operations and back of increased by 4 percent after introducing employees staff the restaurant at any house automation—to other restaurants. the robots, perhaps an indication of greater HUMANS BEWARE: Tipsy Robot still given time. But its founders and funders, % satisfaction with their service. employs staff to greet guests, check IDs and which include star chefs Thomas Keller HOW IT WORKS: Customers order and ensure that customers aren’t overserved. and Daniel Boulud, say the workers are pay for meals in one of four ways: Eatsa’s HUMANS BEWARE: The robots allowed Ha The company says that Tipsy Robot better able to focus on non-repetitive app, a third-party delivery app, website or to staff shifts with two servers, a reduction won’t replace bartenders everywhere; it’s tasks, such as greeting customers, kiosks inside Eatsa locations. Behind the from what once required three to four 70 designed as an attraction. After all, a robot SECONDS IT TAKES TO MAKE n answering questions, garnishing meals scenes, automated technology and made- 40OF TOTAL BUSINESS 45 people. He also hired fewer temporary doesn’t have a sympathetic ear. and distributing orders. to-order cooking creates guests’ meals. BY EATSA PHOTOGRAPHY workers. A COCKTAIL

54 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2019 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 55 FOOD FANATIC ROAD TRIP!

Bananas Foster at Brennan’s From Culture to Concept BY MARIA O’ROURKE

WITH A HISTORY AS RICH AND COMPLEX AS A GOOD GUMBO, New Orleans is Cajun Crack Fries at Banh Mi Boys fanatical about food. Its cuisine blends many cultures and flavors and is one like no other. NO FOMO HERE: Louisiana was colonized for over a century by France and then Spain, leaving Maypop/MoPho: If you are feeling fancy, try the roots that figure prominently in Cajun and mind-bendingly delicious Southeast Asian fusion at upscale Maypop (save room for the Maypop Pie) or go for Creole cuisines. Enslaved Africans brought Dip Trio at Torshi their flavors and cooking techniques while the Complex Pho and Black Eyed Pea Curry at the more Caribbean, Italian and German influences casual MoPho. can also be found in local dishes. The city’s proximity to the Mississippi Brennan’s: You can’t wake up in NOLA without going to River and the Gulf of Mexico makes Brennan’s for breakfast. Try the Eggs Hussarde and treat seafood a staple. Fried oysters, shrimp and yourself to the original Bananas Foster, which the restau- redfish have long played a starring role rant says it invented. in the local cuisine. The iconic po’boy— local fried fish, shellfish or roast beef on a Hurricane Katrina in 2005 also updated their menus to stay ahead of the Casa Borrega: The husband and wife behind the fun and French roll dressed with lettuce, tomato influenced the evolution of New Orleans competition. Their fantastic shrimp Creole funky restaurant mix premium margaritas using freshly and mayonnaise—was born out of a need cuisine. Mexicans and other Latin is served with housemade kimchi and squeezed juices and offer their take on traditional Mexi- to feed striking streetcar workers in the Americans were some of the first workers forbidden rice. can street food. The lamb and nopale tacos and enchila- 1920s. Red beans, Caribbean in origin, are to help with rebuilding efforts. Many The newly renovated St. Roch Food das de mole are especially delicious. traditionally cooked on Mondays with rice, of these workers stayed, which led to a Market is a microcosm of the New Orleans ham or sausage and Creole seasonings. proliferation of taquerias, taco trucks food scene, with Mexican-inspired Chido, Banh Mi Boys: This Metairie sub shop blends Vietnamese Beignets can be traced to French-Creole and Latin restaurants that now dot the Vietnamese T2 Streetfood, Egyptian and New Orleans flavors with a bit of humor. In the mood colonists in the late 1700s while gumbo city and suburbs. One of the best, Casa Torshi and Haitian Fritai lined up next to for Fried Mac & Kimchee Balls, a really great Tofu Spring has roots in African, French and even Borrega, features the street food of Southern Fete au Fete and Elysian Seafood. Roll, a Grilled Shrimp Banh Mi or Cajun Crack Fries? Native American cuisines. Techniques Mexico City with the flavors of Oaxaca. A trip through the food hall, much like a They’ve got them all. and ingredients are debated but all agree it Southeast Asian cuisine continues to be trip through New Orleans today, lays the always starts with a good roux. prominent. Vietnamese and Thai flavors flavors of the world at your feet. Cochon: A favorite stop for chefs, Cochon uses locally The fall of Saigon brought a large influx can be found on fine dining menus as well sourced products and traditional methods to create of Vietnamese immigrants to New Orleans as in traditional noodle shops. In addition, authentic Cajun flavors. Pork cheeks with sauce piquant, in the ‘70s. They were drawn by its Catholic the new Israeli cooking of Alon Shaya at fried boudin with pickled peppers, and Grilled Gulf fish heritage and a climate similar to their Shaya and now Saba has received national FOOD FANATICS showcase the best of the bayou. own. Vietnamese flavors quickly wove in: attention. Maria O’Rourke is a US Foods Food Fanatics Pho, the savory noodle soup that should be It is still New Orleans though, and these chef who creates dishes that reflect her St. Roch Food Market: Go to Fritai for the Haitian Griot— pronounced ‘fuh’,” can be found all over new concepts and flavors bow to tradition passion for life, balance, simplicity and good crispy pork with fried plantains, spicy relish and Creole Haitian Griot the city, and the banh mi is known as a and vice versa. Established restaurants, taste. Follow her on Instagram at @chef_ sauce. At Torshi, freshly made baba ghanoush and chick- at Fritai Vietnamese po’boy. like Brennan’s in the French Quarter, have mariaorourke. en shawarma are flavorful and satisfying. n

56 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2019 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 57 MONEY & SENSE EQUIPPED TO SUCCEED

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Meat Futurefor the With younger generations paying close heed to their environmental footprint, plant-based proteins are Plant-based finding wide appeal, an outcome ground chicken that should make operators take has made the note. Expect more options to menu, Hungry Planet from lab-grown meat and eggs to Bowl a hit at Curry Up Now’s vegetable-based fish that looks various locations shockingly like the real thing. across California.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY HUNGRY PLANET PHOTOGRAPHY BY MIN CASEY © 2018 US Foods, Inc. 06-2018 FOF-2018060402 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 59 It’s not just the same old grind with center- Datassential, 59 percent of consumers go of-the-plate proteins. Driven hard and fast meatless at least once a week. Word on by interest from younger consumers who Culture Club bring an earth-first ethos to their dining Fish for Thought habits, plant-based options that closely Environmental concerns aren’t just Alternative proteins give new getting mimic their meat, poultry and seafood land-based with species depletion a serious counterparts have muscled onto menus global issue. Farm-raised species, which meaning to locally grown with an onslaught of new products set to hit help mediate overfishing, have been joined the marketplace. Meat-pink burgers with by a spate of plant-based choices. Ocean ahead with bloody centers may have stoked interest Hugger Foods flaunts a line of seafood Imagine foie gras, burgers, chicken nuggets, but they’re just the opening salvo. using vegetables that mimic the look and T-bones, chorizo and fin fish cultured in petri “The number of alternate proteins texture of the real deal. Think tomato for dishes with progenitor cells from the animals or plant-based in development is pretty astounding,” tuna, carrots for salmon and eggplant for fish they ape. It’s no longer weird science, as some says Ron DeSantis of CulinaryNXT, eel. companies—such as Memphis Meats, Wild Type and a Connecticut-based foodservice Veggie Grill, a Santa Monica, California- Mosa Meat—claim they’re on the way to making lab- proteins advisory firm. “Flavor profiles and visual based fast casual chain with a menu that’s grown meat commercially viable and affordable. presentations are close to the real things. 100 percent plant-based, offers Crispy Labeling these products as meat or fish could kick That convinces people that they’re legit “Crab” Cake, the flaky white strands of up a lot of dust as the meat and seafood industries and opens them to new audiences,” he says. Hungry Planet’s soy- and wheat-based faux prepare to protect their products. At a hearing Plant-based steaks are in the works and crab. It also is offered at the Garden Bistro, held last year, the Food and Drug Administration said to be close to restaurant-ready. a 100 percent plant-based dining concept referred to them as “food produced using animal- But here’s the shocker, the salient point at Carnegie Mellon University’s Resnik cell culture technology,” while proponents hailed it At SAJJ Mediterranean, kabobs made from plant-based meat can soak up robust spice all operators should note: It’s not vegans House. as clean meat or in vitro meat. loads and draw environmentally conscious or vegetarians who are the heavy users of Whatever the terminology, here are some carnivores. alt-meat products. According to Impossible Playing Chicken companies and products worth keeping an eye on: Foods, makers of the burger by the same When Akash Kapoor founded his name, 70 percent of people ordering its veg- California-based Curry Up Now restaurant based products are meat-eaters. in 2009, he wanted an alternative protein Afineur: Yeast-based coffee substitute “Younger consumers are in tune with the on his menu but was frustrated by a lack environmental impact and health pluses of choices. When he found a plant-based Alelph Farms: Lab-grown steak of plant-based choices,” DeSantis says. “As ground chicken substitute that met his an operator, you have to look ahead and taste and textural standards, he quickly Clara Foods: Lab-grown egg whites consider what’s going on with the next added it to his menu last year. generation of diners. They think about food “It’s not necessarily for vegetarians,” he Endless West: Molecular whiskey that doesn’t require JUST Egg Patty (from left to above) on a pretzel much differently.” says. “They’re not looking for something aging in oak barrels Bun with nut cheese and mushrooms makes for a Interest in so-called meat analogues, that looks or tastes like meat.” vegan experience. which includes plant-based meat Finless Foods: Blue-fin tuna cultivation substitutes that mimic the flavor, texture Fire Up the Grill and appearance of proteins, has never been SAJJ Mediterranean, a nine-unit Middle Hungry Planet: Vegan crab stronger. With more than one-third of Eastern brand in the San Francisco Bay consumer saying they intend to eat more Area, offers a strong slate of vegan and Just: Lab-raised meat, plant-based scrambled eggs; non-meat proteins this year, there’s big vegetarian items. To further its roster, it foie gras Who Wants a Meat Sub? incentive for operators to include them on recently added a kabob with ground plant- menus. based beef from Impossible Foods as a Miyoko’ s Kitchen: Cheese-type food made from (as in substitute) Products such as veggie and bean recurring special. CEO Zaid Ayoub says it cultured nuts burgers, tofu, tempeh and algae-based sells out each time. Consumers who would like restaurants to offer protein substitutes for meat, poultry and seafood. seafood subs, such as crab and shrimp, “The target audience is meat eaters New Wave Foods: Shrimp from red algae and all of which are appearing on menus, who want an environmentally friendly plant proteins % not just with increasing frequency but product,” Ayoub says. “They care about 52 Ages 18-34 also in ways that forever banish the idea global warming, pollution and land use Perfect Day Foods: Milk- and dairy-type products that they appeal only to the health-food and this drives their food choices.” Thus, it from yeast fermentation % fringers (see opposite page). In large part, attracts Millennials and older diners alike. 38 Ages 35+ this growth has been fueled by a desire for “The flavor is earthier,” says Ayoub, who Plant Based Foods: Cavi-Art, algae-based substitute meat reduction. According to research firm also notes that it’s easy to handle and cook. for caviar n Source: Technomic

60 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2019 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 61 Plant-based burgers, such as the one from 50/50, have paved the way for options other than meat. GET THE RIGHT FIT EVERY TIME

Menu Finder: Hot Selling Plant-Based Specials

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bump ($1,000 level accrued $1,200 in food ($790) memberships. Members receive a Cash in credit) and early access to special events. glass bottle emblazoned with their name, which remains in the bar’s liquor cabinet. WHY IT’S WORTHY: For the diner, Each month, bartenders fill the glassware it can mean more than a place to eat. with cocktails available only to them. on the L’Oca d’Oro, for instance, established itself as a community hub even before WHY IT’S WORTHY: Rather than visit opening. Knowing they’re supporting a the trendy bar du jour, customers stick membership neighborhood business, customers feel with Saxon + Parole to maximize their more of a connection to the restaurant. memberships. Higher markups on alcohol ensure better profits, while bigger food OTHER WAYS: Lenoir, also in Austin, has orders improve check averages at the bar. Today’s customers place orders for takeout or delivery with the touch of a cellphone. movement a similar approach to ensure it could source Send theirG meals off inood sturdy Monogram® shopping bags. These Forestto-go! Stewardship Council®-certified bags, BY MATT KIROUAC the best ingredients and retain top talent. OTHER WAYS: More than 250,000 people made from 100% post-consumer recycled paper, are responsibly sourced and reduce waste – part of the Members received dollar-for-dollar credit have signed up for Cooper’s Hawk Wine and perks, such as free knife sharpening Club. Members indicate their preferences ® ® Serve Good program at US Foods . Available in three sizes, these bags ensure you’ll be ready when it’s to-go time. ($2,500 level) and private four-course (such as whites, reds and sweet) and ❱ Given the rise of membership-based dinners ($5,000 level). Members can also Cooper’s Hawk sends monthly bottles. retail, such as Costco and Amazon, is it share their accounts with other diners, thus Members receive dining gift cards for points any surprise restaurants are launching spreading interest organically. earned as well as retail discounts, members- subscription and membership programs? only events and limited bottlings. In return, Whether it’s point-based or a community- MODERN BARFLY: WINE AND SPIRIT VIP Cooper’s Hawk enjoys steady business and supported restaurant (CSR), membership • an ever-expanding customer database. programs can generate diner loyalty, inject WHAT IT IS: Member-only cocktails or cash flow into the business and create a procured monthly wine orders that generate THE NEW REGULAR: BETTER PERKS lasting sense of community. Just don’t be exclusivity and lure well-healed regulars. • boring. WHAT IT IS: Frequent diner memberships “Pitch memberships in a community HOW IT WORKS: “The Cocktail Cabinet with perks that make guests feel like VIPs. way, as opposed to loyalty cards that are of Curiosities” program at New York City’s just about a discount,” says Adam Orman, Saxon + Parole allows customers to sign up HOW IT WORKS: At Blood & Sand in St. general manager of L’Oca d’Oro in Austin, for one- ($75), three- ($225) or 12-month Louis, a monthly membership fee of $15 Texas. “What you’re offering needs to entitles diners to special menu pricing and be unique, either culinarily or socially, other privileges, like members-only happy something that people want to be a part of.” hours, retail wine pricing and reserved tables. Similar deals are extended to small • PAY FIRST, EAT LATER: THE CSR MODEL and large businesses. WHAT IT IS: Think Kickstarter with a WHY IT’S WORTHY: “Sometimes restaurant focus. Community-supported (members) are our best source of ideas,” restaurant memberships ask diners for says Tim Murphy, owner of Blood & Sands. up-front investments via membership dues, “With a sense of ownership and loyalty, they which support a gamut of expenditures, feel invested in our success.” from renovation costs to improving For more information, contact your insurance coverage. In exchange, members OTHER WAYS: Chicago-based Lettuce US Foods Representative or Save Time. receive perks and bragging rights. Entertain You Enterprises offers a tiered Order Online! usfoods.com frequent-diner program. The more money HOW IT WORKS: To transition diners spend, the higher their point returns. from a pop-up and catering operation And since points can be used at over 120 EXCLUSIVE to a restaurant, L’Oca d’Oro offered restaurants across the country, says Lettuce memberships levels from $1,000 to $5,000. President R.J. Melman, diners can enjoy BRAND n At each level, diners earned a 20 percent v i p diverse dining experiences. © 2018 US Foods, Inc. 06-2018 FOF-2018060402

USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 65 ➊ FAST TRACK JOB ➌ OFFER MEANINGFUL APPLICATIONS. INCENTIVES. “Make the process short ‘WHAT’S Since Gen Z-ers want to and fun,” says Heather work with friends, offer THE Watson, who heads IN IT incentives to current team consulting and behavior members who can recruit design at CGK. “Don’t FOR ME?’ quality employees. Token front-load all the filling finder’s fees for a referral ABCs out. If it takes more than won’t cut it. “You need to 10 minutes to fill out an make it more financially initial application, you beneficial to the individual TO GEN Z are going to lose people. ➋ PROMOTE A FUN, who made the referral, Break it up into little FAMILIAL CULTURE. then recognize them for digital chunks.” Gen Z-ers are seeking a their accomplishment WORKERS Adopt a text messaging friendly atmosphere, the in front of their peers,” technology that lets NRAEF/CGK study found. says Scott Samuels, CEO These aren’t the same applicants apply and “More individuals in this of Horizon Hospitality, teens as in years past ❱ A tight labor market and record highs in managers screen generation are asking, a nationwide executive terms of foodservice job openings requires that responses and share ‘What’s in it for me?’ search firm based in you do more than stick a “help wanted” sign details about vacancies, versus earlier generations Overland Park, Kansas. BY MEGAN ROWE on your front window. Instead, try turning all via text and instant who were happy just to Other incentives to Generation Z—the 61 million potential communication. If a resume have a job,” says Mishel include discounted employees born between 1997 and 2012—to fill is requested, the candidate LeDoux, director of gym memberships, server, dishwasher, cook and manager positions. can simply snap a photo culinary management transportation benefits The trick is figuring out how to make your and attach it to a message. programs for the Institute such as a bike-share restaurant an employer of choice. Gen Z “From the restaurant’s of Culinary Education in program and closures on requires a different approach than earlier perspective, it provides Los Angeles. “One of the major holidays. generations, according to a recent study by the the opportunity to cast a tactics I see is restaurants National Restaurant Association Educational wider net versus sending using their website to Foundation and the Center for Generational emails and making phone show the employees ➍ RETHINK SOCIAL Kinetics. They are more pragmatic, prefer one- calls,” says Sara Moak, as a main focus of the CHANNELS. on-one discussions and seek financial security. vice president of human operation—like family— LinkedIn is becoming They want to work for employers with an upbeat resources for Phoenix- and projecting the image more prevalent among culture, diverse management and flexibility. based Fox Restaurant that being part of their younger job seekers, but Even though the number of teens choosing Concepts. “It gives you team is hip, cool and fun.” for now, employers need foodservice jobs has been declining, restaurants the ability to make that Rusty Bucket Restaurant to establish a presence remain the first paid job for 82 percent of Gen initial connection and & Tavern, with 23 units, where Gen Z is already Z, the majority of whom rate their experience have those conversations uses the recruiting present, Watson says. in the industry as a positive one according to much more quickly. Our space on its website to “That means Instagram, the NRAEF/CGK study. In fact, about a third technology use in training promote its “Bucket Life” YouTube and Snapchat,” said they aspire to become restaurant owners, is critical because it philosophy, which stresses she says, and to a lesser managers and operators. So even though the provides interactive bite- its employees come first. extent, Facebook. number of teens choosing foodservice jobs size training bits, which “We want people to love is declining, there are ways to make your can be accessed via an where they work and make restaurant a top pick for job seekers. Here are app, versus long meetings a difference,” says Lindsey nine to start. or lengthy training Bigler, Rusty Bucket’s documents.” recruiting manager.

USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 67 Food Fanatics chefs and restaurant operations ASK THE EXPERTS consultants help fix everyday industry issues

➎ DON’T BE STINGY who aspire to a WITH THE “LIKES.” foodservice career are PROBLEM: Habituated to social hungry to learn. “Having media’s instant feedback a path is important,” We’re a breakfast and lunch place thinking about culture, Gen Z team Coombs says, “so we opening for dinner. Smart or crazy? members expect the have manager-in- same treatment at work. training programs.” He That doesn’t require observes that many SOLUTION: regular reviews; regular younger hires possess a acknowledgment on strong entrepreneurial Run labor costs and consider whether your good work will likely do drive; they’re eager to neighborhood mix needs dinner. Delivery may prove the trick. Regardless of learn about restaurant to be profitable and a good trial run. People are in how you handle it, “if you ownership, so help them are not showing sincere acquire those skills. less of a rush at night so dim the lights to create a appreciation for them, they more relaxing atmosphere and encourage BYOB. are much more likely to ➑ LET THEM move on,” Samuels says. MULTI-TASK. Customers want more affordable dinner options Getting staff involved in which is why fast casuals are making a play for the ➏ GIVE THEM SOME SAY. more than just one job fuels evening daypart. Letting younger team spirit and inspires employees weigh in on passion. At Alderwood quality-of-life decisions, in Santa Cruz, California, BENEFIT: like uniforms and music, chef-owner Jeffrey Wall Added revenue stream. might seem trivial, but it encourages team members matters. “I let Gen Zers to share outside skills, control the radio,” says including gardening, PROBLEM: Servers work more menu familiarity and BENEFIT: The right person BENEFIT: Inexpensive, accomplish goals, whether Chris Coombs, co- photography, social media at other restaurants to better accommodations for learns faster, is more works as a seasoning and it’s improving customer owner of Boston Urban and foraging. “People make more money. guests. successful and stays often stands in for cheese service or expanding a Hospitality. “Listening to need to feel enriched on a longer. They also bring you in vegan dishes. concept. what they like improves daily basis, and we want to SOLUTION: Show PROBLEM: How to put people like themselves. the atmosphere and keeps inspire that,” he says. “I tell unlimited earning potential a dent in the ugly cycle PROBLEM: Good PROBLEM: We’ve me hip about what’s going the team, ‘I write the menu, exists at your restaurant of high turnover and bad PROBLEM: Nutritional managers don’t always outgrown our current on in the world of music. It but what’s on the menu through better training via hires. yeast seems to pop up make good leaders. space and there’s no way seems like a silly thing, but could be something you upselling. Break down all everywhere. What’s the to expand. it’s really important.” invented.’” of the upsell opportunities SOLUTION: Sharpen job big deal? SOLUTION: Management (bacon on a burger, side descriptions (hiring a cook entails everyday tasks, SOLUTION: Optimize your ➐ SHOW THEM THE WAY. ➒ SUPPORT GOODWILL. dish options, and shelf is not specific enough) by SOLUTION: Think of such as creating order online ordering system by Mentors are crucial to Gen Gen Z members, liquors) and extend the determining the specific the fermented flakes as guides, updating inventory adding a “curbside pickup” Z, as most are embarking sometimes called value of the 18 percent tip characteristics you want umami, an ingredient that sheets and scheduling— option. on their first real job and “philanthroteens,” potential on those items for the person to be adds depth and a cheesy tasks that can be taught. need to build confidence. want to associate with sold over time. Customers successful. Be sure the flavor. Sprinkle on eggs, Leadership is about vision, BENEFIT: By taking some “They need a lot of soft organizations that are typically base their tip job fits the candidate’s roasted vegetables, pasta, creating a culture and pressure off of the dining skills training,” Watson doing good for society. on the check total, not lifestyle, and don’t be popcorn, salad dressing or inspiring staff, abilities that area, you should be able to PEOPLE NEED TO FEEL says. “Employers want “We are very passionate necessarily service. overly swayed by past any dish that could benefit take years to develop. ease the flow and improve them to put the customer about our causes and experience; the traits are from an ingredient that the experience for your ENRICHED ON A DAILY first, and Gen Zers say, community support, and BENEFIT: Servers earn more important. barely has any sodium. BENEFIT: Knowing the clients and up efficiency ‘I don’t know what that we make sure they’re more, training leads to difference will help for your staff. BASIS, AND WE WANT means or what to do.’” aware of it,” Moak says. Rusty Bucket’s approach Fox employees have TO INSPIRE THAT. is to assign newbies to plenty of opportunity to —Jeffrey Wall, chef-owner of Alderwood “culture buddies” who contribute to pet causes, answer questions and help such as No Kid Hungry Got a question for the experts? Send your challenges, comments and suggestions to [email protected]. them feel welcome. promotions and support Gen Z staff members for local food banks. n

68 FOOD FANATICS | SPRINGWINTER 2019 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 69 HUMANELY RAISED

NUT-FREE: It’s an unregulated term. HUMANELY RAISED: Be very Some food makers use the term careful. “The terms ‘humanely to refer to products that have no Keep it raised’ and ‘raised with care’ intended nut ingredients. Others are not clearly defined by the are referring to products made in USDA and are not backed facilities that don’t use nuts. by any audits or specific ONE OF THE CHALLENGES standards,” says Daisy Freund, Clean director of farm animal welfare WITH MENU LABELING IS THAT HUMANE Honesty should be at the American Society for INGREDIENTS, SUPPLIERS AND the Prevention of Cruelty to PRODUCT COMPOSITION CAN your only policy for Animals. “Therefore, they offer sustainably no assurance about the animals’ FISHED cage free CHANGE, SO BEING ABLE TO using food labels CERTIFIED HUMANE: welfare.” A more credible LEARN IN REAL TIME WHAT HAS BY ALISON GRANT Meat, dairy and eggs with approach: Use third-party SUSTAINABLY FISHED: Humane Farm’s Certified certifications. The term is meaningful if BEEN USED TO PREPARE AN Humane classification come backed by certification ORDER IS CRITICAL. Writing a menu can be a nerve- from farm animals raised with from reputable CAGE FREE: Misleading when used on chicken or — Lisa Gable, CEO of Food Allergy Research & wracking endeavor for conscientious shelter, resting areas and organizations, including turkey meat, as those birds are not raised in cages in Education. operators, especially when diners space sufficient to support The Marine Stewardship the United States. Only egg-layers are raised in cages. increasingly want to know the source of natural behavior, says Mimi ANIMAL Council, which applies That being said, there’s no legal or regulated definition Stein, executive director of WELFARE little blue fish logos next for “cage free” eggs. Hens laying eggs labeled cage free the food. approved Is your fish really sustainably caught? Humane Farm Animal Care, to seafood that meet its often live inside large, overcrowded barns, warehouses Was the chicken humanely raised? an international nonprofit standards. or even on concrete lots. According to Technomic’s 2018 Healthy certification organization Eating Consumer Trend Report, 53 dedicated to improving the The MSC label attests percent of consumers would like lives of farm animals in food to “chain of custody,” restaurants to be more transparent production. Restaurants that ANIMAL WELFARE APPROVED: which ensures fish and GLOBAL about what’s in their menu items. sign up for the organization’s Products come from animals seafood products are ANIMAL PARTNERSHIP Every menu should be treated as if “traceability audits” are given raised without cages, crates or tie traceable to certified it were a contract between you and a sticker, which indicates that stalls, among other key practices. sustainable fisheries— your diners, chefs say. Yet confusion all of their food products have Auditors visit farms at least once and that the fish dish is abounds around terms such as been traced back to a farm, a year to inspect whether cattle, actually from the species GLOBAL ANIMAL PARTNERSHIP: “sustainably fished,” “gluten- or nut- barn, flock or herd that was hogs and poultry are grazing listed, a protection A five-step program classifies animal free” and “humanely raised.” inspected by its auditors. primarily or completely on against instances of welfare. In steps 1 and 2, expect that If you make a claim or apply a pastures. Only family farms can mislabeling or outright pigs and chickens are raised indoors, particular label, it better be 100 participate in the program. fraud, says MSC GLUTEN-FREE: The term is regulated by the Food and or beef cattle “finished” for the last third percent accurate. Those with a strong AWA has the most stringent spokeswoman Jackie Drug Administration, so menu items must meet the FDA- of their lives in feed lots. Meat at Step 3 command over the meaning of menu standards for animal welfare in Marks. approved standard of no more than 20 parts per million usually has some outdoor access. labels can leverage them to great effect, North America, according to of gluten. That’s the lowest level that can be consistently creating loyal regulars. Those who use findings in Consumer Reports’ detected. “It’s about raising an animal in a totally them incorrectly can find themselves “Food Labels Exposed.” different way from standard industrial with empty dining rooms. Here’s “Unfortunately people don’t However, the FDA’s Food Allergen Labeling and production,” says Libba Letton, a insight from the leading organizations realize that there’s so much Consumer Protection Act of 2004 only applies to spokesperson for the nonprofit. that can give your claims credibility. leeway around what’s described packaged foods. Package labeling covers wheat as humane,” says Emily Moose, (gluten) and seven other foods that account for some spokeswoman for AWA’s umbrella 90 percent of food allergies—milk, eggs, fish, crustacean group, A Greener World. shellfish, tree nuts, peanuts and soybeans.

70 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2019 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 71 iHELP Be efficient and tech savvy at the same time RDERIN and job descriptions, ZoomShift allows managers to track hours and daily labor NLINE costs; block early clock-ins and overtime; Swing Your share schedules or send automatic shift reminders. Workers set their own availability preferences, request time off BUILDS UR Shifts With and pick up open shifts through the app. Why it works: Shannon Gallagher, B LINE training and engagement manager at Lake These Apps Geneva, Wisconsin-based Simple Food BY MEGAN ROWE Group, adopted ZoomShift to empower team members to be more accountable. ❱ When it comes to dropped shifts, you’ve can view projected income, which can It allows staff at the company’s cafes probably heard more tall tales than a high entice them to pick up additional shifts or and bakery to work out scheduling school English teacher. Twenty-four hour decrease the desire to call in sick. issues themselves. “Once the schedule bugs. Car trouble. The dog ate my iPhone. is published, it’s their responsibility,” Whatever the excuse, employee no- 7shifts ≥≥ Gallagher explains. Managers can ONLINE TOGO shows can wreak havoc on a restaurant’s How it works: After employees post approve or deny proposed swaps, but their operations and budget. Fortunately, new and bid on shift openings, managers can intervention isn’t required. ORDERING HAS GROWN BY smartphone apps allow employees to approve swaps by tracking workers with notify managers of absences and line up similar skills. Swaps are automatically Bonus features: Managers and replacements with the swipe of a screen. incorporated into schedules and time- employees can send an SOS when they need clock software is baked into the platform. help filling shifts, and employees can opt 7shifts sends real-time overtime alerts to to be notified via text, email or push when 225% Homebase ≥≥ help managers monitor labor costs, while new slots open or trades are approved. How it works: Provides web-based team offering free integration with systems, such IN THE PAST FIVE YEARS* management solutions with employer as Toast, Micros, and Touch Bistro. Schedulefly ≥≥ and employee needs in mind. Platform How it works: Schedulefly is a web- Use ChowNow, the leading online offers scheduling and shift swapping, time Why it works: 7shifts effectively manages based scheduling system known for tracking, hiring and team communications large staffs, like the 100-plus employees its straightforward interface, which ordering system for restaurants, to at a no-cost “free-mium” package at Harrison’s Harbor Watch, a seafood includes schedule building, time-off increase take-out revenue and keep (costs kick in with add-ons). Features spot in Ocean City, Maryland. The app’s request management, shift swaps, staff integrate with other widely used services. intuitive interface has virtually eliminated communication via a message wall, contact business thriving — commission-free. For example, time tracking ties into scheduling issues and its labor functions lists, schedule change tracking and more. payroll giant ADP and templates for job have paid for its cost, says General Manager POS-integration capability may come soon. descriptions can be shared by employees Jeb Vetock. and populate on sites such as Glassdoor. Why it works: “Many other apps offer Bonus features: Two-way a lot of bells and whistles that require Why it works: The platform has a full- communication is central to 7shifts’ as much front-end work as they provide circle approach in each of its features. Staff appeal. Managers can send “How did we in labor savings,” says Scott Schmidt, availability integrates with scheduling, do?” push notifications requesting crew owner of Looking Glass Hospitality Group which reduces the need for swapping shifts. feedback. Workers can click on a rating in Cincinnati. Not Schedulefly, which Schedule change requests can be viewed emoji and leave comments—an invaluable has what you need to run your business by all employees, eliminating the need to way to keep staff from straying. A bonus without a ton of things you won’t ever use.” reach out to coworkers individually. feature allows staff to trade messages about upcoming events or assignments. Bonus features: Managers can receive For more information, contact your US Foods Representative Bonus features: Employers gain insight daily email alerts that list everything from or Save Time. Order Online! usfoods.com by seeing which employees beg off shifts ZoomShift ≥≥ who’s working on a given day to employees’ more than others and can reward those How it works: Using a dashboard that birthdays. Schedulefly also projects labor who pick up less desirable ones. Workers color codes and sorts data by location costs as a percentage of projected sales. n

*Google Trends USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 73 • Glass from Around the World • Interactive Showpieces • Sipping and Sauntering • Shape Shifters At Kumiko in Chicago, Julia Momose buys Martin Kastner designed his porthole Laura Maniec’s Corkbuzz wine bar in At The Wolves in Los Angeles, bartender Kevin Lee glassware from Japan to enhance the infusers—a transparent Q-shaped Chelsea Market offers visitors govino has access to 300 vintage glasses sourced from In the Clear experience of enjoying sake and cocktails. steeping device—to explore the idea glasses made from shatterproof and around the globe—which allows him to upend the She says the vessels she chooses can of “time as an active ingredient.” Chefs recycled polymers. formality of pairing cocktails to specific glasses. Glassware that dictate the way we drink. Tiny sake glasses and bartenders pack the device with Reusable, inexpensive and virtually Instead, he designs drinks with particular shapes and slightly fluted mini beer glasses highlight flavors and spices, infusing spirits, syrups, indestructible (perfect for outdoor in mind. Rather than rim glasses with salt and raises the bar the Japanese culture’s admiration for shared vinegars and various treats so that guests dining, food halls and catering), her sugar, he’ll grab any long-stemmed glass, perhaps drinking and pouring sake for each other. can watch them mature before their 16-ounce glass selections are branded a champagne flute, and coat it with dehydrated BY PETER GIANOPULOS But the best glasses actually alter flavors. very eyes. Mixologists can also pour the with Corkbuzz’s name. Maniec charges fruit powders for a pointillistic look and enhanced Pouring wine or sake in a Kimura “Bambi” drink at various intervals to experience diners an extra $1.50 per glass, so they aromatics. Dollops of fruit gels can also be added to ❱ Glassware styles are as fickle as runway glasses—thin and crocus-like—allows diners different degrees of infusion. Just placing can stroll the food court, then take them the rims of any glass with a hefty flat edge. fashions. In one season, out the next. to take in aromas from the roundest part a porthole on the bar can draw attention home as souvenirs. Returning the glass In addition to his seasonal vermouths and flavors, A decade ago, the industry of the glass. “With these glasses, you smell and allow you to ramp up the price of earns diners a discount on a return trip. this lack of uniformity in his glassware has made clamoured for refined ultra-thin glass aromas as you taste the liquid,” says Momose. your cocktails. The glasses do more than reduce the Wolves an Instagram all-star. “For me, there’s that minimized waves and showed waste. The little ridges on the side allow no need to over-spiritualize glassware,” says Lee. refinement, says glassmaker Martin amateurs to swirl wine with the grace of “Glassware is more of a tool; it’s the functionality of Kastner of Crucial Detail. Now, he says a sommelier. the glasses that matter most of all.” n unconventional and heavier materials are hot. Delving beyond colors, patterns and densities, here are glassware tips and tricks from top sommeliers and bartenders.

74 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2019 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 75 BY THE NUMBERS Play these numbers for a bigger payout STAND AND DELIVER DO YOUR With the sheer number of options available, it’s never been easier to order takeout or delivery. As direct and third party services expand and try to be everything to everyone, restaurants are optimally positioned to cash in. Start by digesting the numbers. CONTAINERS EAT AND REPEAT LOVE TO BIG Percentage of repeat online orders: PARTIES DELIVER? 50 Not all take-out packaging is created Percentage of consumers who order catering on impulse equal. To reliably avoid blowouts, prevent 70 ® Average monthly frequency spills, protect and insulate, choose Pactiv of online ordering: $40 BILLION hinged-lid containers. Developed with $300 Catering sales for pickup EarthChoice® SmartLock® technology, or delivery in 2018, which is expected to increase these microwaveable hybrid-material BILLION Source: CHD Expert 2018 study containers come in multiple sizes and colors to fit any to-go application. 2XSource: ChowNow Total off-premise restaurant sales to be OPPORTUNITIES surpassed by 2023 Source: CHD Expert 2018 study WATCH OUTS TO UPSELL

Percentage of customers who wouldn’t use a delivery service if WHO’S ORDERING OUT an order arrived at the wrong temperature 18 to 29-year-olds...... 63% 53 42Percentage of customers who frequently skip ordering 30 to 44-year-olds...... 51% dessert because they have MORE THAN 1/2 it at home 45 to 60-year-olds...... 29% Online customers who participate in loyalty programs Plus 60...... 14% 7 OUT OF 10 Mobile or online orders that 59Percentage of customers who source back to the restaurant vs. frequently order delivery but third party app or service use beverages at home or in the office Source: The NPD Group/Delivering Digital Source: Zion & Zion, online and delivery apps Convenience report, 2018 Source: Datassential ILLUSTRATION BY ROB WILSON ILLUSTRATION

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