Wagon Tracks Volume 9 Issue 1 Wagon Tracks Volume 9, Issue 1 (November Article 1 1994)

1995 Wagon Tracks. Volume 9, Issue 1 (November, 1994) Santa Fe Trail Association

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VOLUME 9 NOVEMBER 1994 NUMBER 1 .. V-P GARDNER RESIGNS .. \ SFTA Vice-PresidentMark L. Gardner has resigned from that office because '.." his schedule does not permit him the time necessary to fulfill his duties to the Association. Gardner is a charter member ofSFTA and has served capa­ , bly as a director and vice-president. working on important committees and , n" . contributing scholarly articles to ,t:::;;~ Wagon Trades. >,, Gardner plans to maintain his inter­ est in and support of SFTA insofar as time permits. His research and'writing ventures will· continue. including planned publications on the Santa Fe Trail. He hopes his successor will be better able to devote the time required to build a stronger and better SFTA. His yea~ ofservice to the AsslX;iation have merited the appreciation of all members. "

INDEX AVAILABLE. . , SOON- , . A' comprehensive index for the first eightvolumes ofWagon Tracks iSbeing ': b~ soon~ • .fl". compiled arid will available , BO~,ita .. Leo and Oliva are engaged in ! .,. ~ ... , .,"". , .. the task authorized by the board of ,! -,~ " ..,. . . Clirectors. This essential tool will aid ! "" "\. • readers in finding information without , , searchiQg through every',issue. All Tr~lIi;, members will receive a copy when it is This g'ray granite DAR marker, the first on the Santa Fe pklahoma, was dedicated October 1, 1994; Ito r: Mary Gamble, SFTA director from Colorado; Bill printed. and additional copies will be th~ available for sale. Those wis'hing to fill Pitts, SFTA president; Joan Kachel, chairman of marker committee; Dan Sliarp, gaps in their collection of Wagon SFNHT advisory council member; David Hutchison, SFTA director from Oklahoma; Tracks may orderback issQes from the and Mrs. Ovle Holland, regent of High Plains DAR chapter. (photo courtesy of Leo SFTA Last Chance Store while they Gamble;) last. FIRST OKLAHOMA DAR MARKERS SET, ~ - '.~ .... , TRAILTOUR PLANNED BY SMITHSONIAN ASSOCIATES WHEN the Daughters ofthe American Revolution (DAR) erected granite markerS . , ' along the route ofthe Santa Fe Trail in the early years of this century. none was A study-tour of the Santa Fe Trail ~ located on the Cimarron Route in'the Oklahoma Panhandle. This omission was being planned by the travel depart­ was recently corrected with the placement of two gray granite monuments in ment of Smithsonian Associates. Ten~ Cimarron Countyby the High Plains DAR Chapter ofGuymon. OK. One is located tatlvelyscheduled for September 9-17. beside State Highway 325. where it crosses the old Trail. on what Marc SimmonS 1995. from the Kansas City. MO. area calls "one of the choicest spots on this section of the Santa Fe Trail." It is several " to Santa Fe. NM. the tour will accom­ miles east of the site ofCamp Nichols. The other DAR marker was set on County • modate 30 participants. Road 13-16C at the Oklahoma-New Mexico border. WT Editor Leo E. Oliva will serve as The dedication of the marker on Highway 325 took place on October 1, 1994. the tour guide. SFTA members will be at 2:30 p.m.• dUring the annual tour of the Cimarron CountY Historical Society. welcome to participate. Details will ap~ Mrs. Ovle Holland. regent of the High Plains Chapter. was in charge of,the pear in WT as soon as the itinerary is ceremony and unveiled the attractive memorial. SFTA member Joan Kachel Was completed. Oliva plans to lead addi­ cll3J.rman of the committee in charge of setting the markerS. James R. Fletcher ,tional tours on the Trail in 1996 and gave the dedicatory address. SFTA President Bill Pitts. several members of the 1997 as part ofthe 175th anniversary Cimarron CutoffChapter. and other SFTA guests were on hand to celebrate this celebration. important addition to the historic road. ' ',- November 1994 1

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PRESIDENT'S COLUMN SUGGESTIONS FOR SFTA to do all of this. As interested citi­ zens, we can step forward to do With the 175th anniversary of Wil­ by Byron Christopher Shutz much ofthis ourselves. Members of liam Becknell's party entering Santa (Byron Shutz, Kansas City, MO, is a the Wet/Dry Routes Chapter have Fe in 1821 coming up in 1996, the semi-retired businessman and an set a fine example of initiating a Santa Fe Trail Association, SFTA active member of SFTA. He and his project and carrying it through to chapters, National Park Service, state wife, MarUyn, have traveled the Trail completion. and local tourism departments, from New Franklin to Santa Fe. They Marking the Trail could be an im­ county historical societies, and others have been involved in and made portant use ofmembership fees. For will be cooperating on numerous pro­ significant contributions to historic example, periodic contests could be grams. This is a good time for chapters preservation work atArrow Rock, MO, held for an award granted by the to work with local chambers of com­ and are interested in preservation of Association to the most significant other Santa Fe Trail sites. The \ merce and state tourism offices to co­ and deserving proposal related to , ordinate and advertise projects. The following was sent to the o.1Jlcers and marking the Trail. !.- SFTA 175th anniversary committee directors of SFTA several weeks ago (4) There are physical structures and chairman is Harry Myers, PO Box 7, and is printed here, with Mr. Shutz's relics of the Trail which beg to be Watrous NM 87753. Please keep him permission, for the consideration of preserved and even ,possibly re­ informed ofall activities. the entire membership. He would stored. Again, we need not wait for The past growth ofSFTA and its fine appreciate hearing from interested the National Park Service to do this. chapters now allows us to work closely members.) I am confident that there are indi­ with the five state tourism offices and THE spirit and history ofthe Santa Fe viduals, corporations, historical so­ numerous local governments in the Trail offer an eXciting. fulfilling experi­ cieties, SFTA chapters, and other celebrating of the Trail's anniversary. entities that, if encouraged, could SFTA maybe compared with a legume ence. That is why each of us has, to plant. The chapters are nodules on the one degree or another, become capti­ over time provide funds for individ­ roots which enrich the plant and the ,vated by the Trail. ual projects. In Osage County, KS, surroundingarea. The blossoms ofthe I believe that more can be done to south of Topeka, the McGee-Harris plant are the many activities of the preserve relics and remnants of the Stage Station at llO-Mile Creek is organization which produce seeds for Trail and to provide information to future programs and growth. those who have a great curiosity about WAGON TRACKS is tbe official publication During early Trail years both the the wagon roads and about the people of tbe Santa Fe Trail Association, a non-profit United States and Mexico looked upon who fonowed it to trade. I offer for your organization incorporated under tbe laws of Santa Fe Trail commerce as a source study and consideration some ways in tbe State of Colorado. Letters and articles are which SFTA might, play an expanded welcome, buttbey become tbe property ofWf of economic growth. Today the states and may be edited or abridged at too editor's with the remains of the Trail are look­ role in preserving and explaining the marvelous history of the Trail. discretion. All rights reserved. Inquiries can ing to the modern travelers following be directed 10 tbe appropriate address below. the historic route as a source of eco­ First, the Association has somevalu­ Annual subscriptions are obtained througb nomic growtli:Many of the special able assets, including( I) the clear and membership in Ibe Association, wbose dues events the c,ommuIiities present in inspiring writings ofMarc Simmons, are fixed per calendar year. Cbecks sbould be 1996 will become annual events, and one ofthe founders of the Association, made payable to tbe Santa Fe Trail Associa­ the SFTA members and'chapters will whose literature about the Trail pro­ tion and sent to tbe secretary-treasurer. be involved. ',' vides examples for other contemporary Membership Categories ; . . scholarship, (2) Wagon Tracks, a vi­ Benefactor $1,000 SFTA, all chapters, and the anniver­ Patron $100/year sary committee will be working with brant, hil!ltly informative newsletter which is the primary link between the InstItutIonal $2S/year national. state;and local organizations FamIly $20/year in 1996 to celebrate the historic splen­ membership and SFTA, and (3) the biennial symposia, viewed by the Individual $IS/year dor of the Tool, its commerce and its Editor: Leo E. Oliva, PO Box 31, Woodston, travelers. All of this is a prelude to the membership as one of the benefits of being a member of the Association. KS 67675 200th anniversary in 2021. Truly the President: Bill Pitts, 3824 N Oak Grove Dr Santa Fe Trail lives mi. I would suggest that the Association could also do the following: #841, Midwest City, OK 73110 -Bill Pitts Secretary.Tre~urer: Rutb Olson Peters, (1) Further recognize the extraordinary Santa Fe Trail Center, RR 3, Lamed, KS value of Wagon Tracks by providing 67550 [ BETH B. HATHAWAY' the money necessary to publish itin 1995 Symposium Coordinator: Steven Lin­ a first-class format that the quality derer, Fort Larned,NHS, RR3, Lamed, 'KS SFTA memberBeth B. Hathaway, wife of the material generally deserves. 67550 ofSFTA Ambassador Ralph Hathaway, The editor also needs to be fully PubIklty Coordinator: Micbael E. Pitel, Chase, KS, died after a lengthy Ulness recognized for his professional work Tano Rd., Rt. 4, Box 240, Santa Fe, NM 87501 on September8, 1994, at the age of80. and paid accordingly for those serv­ Diredors: A native of Maryville, Missouri, she ices. Adrian Bustamante, New Mexico married Ralph Hathaway in 1962. William Y. Cbalfant, Kansas Mrs. Hathaway was a member of the (2) When published in a quality format, Virginia Lee Fisber, Missouri Jeremiah Howard Chapter of the DAR copies of WT should be widely and \." at Great Bend, the Rice County His­ actively directed to libraries and Pauline Fowler, Missouri torical Society at Lyons, and was a other institutions, agencies, and or­ Mary Gamble, Colorado charter member of the, Dr. Thomas ganizations which have an interest David Hutchison, Oklaboma Lord Chapter of the Daughters of in the history of our national his­ Ross Marshall, Kansas American Colonists at Hutchinson. toric trails. Pal O'Brien, Colorado Condolences are extended to the (3) The Trail needs to be better marked Joy Poole, AI Large Hathaway family. Memorials may be and information provided on the Margaret Sears, New Mexico sent to the Rice County'Historical So­ sites by well-designed, good quality Dave Webb, At Large ciety Endowment Fund, 105 West markers and signs. We do not need Tim Zwink, Oklahoma Lyon, Lyons KS 67554. to wait for the National Park Service

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an example of a surviving structure to other communities that would have Gardner and his suggestions for a re­ which might be preserved and ap­ a particular interest in attracting the placement. Given that the Santa Fe propriately marked. There are Santa Fe Trail Association to relocate. Trail Association Is in a critical period. many others. Such cities would Include. for exam­ taking much criticism, and Is in the (5) The Association could also (a) de­ ple. Santa Fe, NM. and Independence, middle of preparations for the 175th velop an aggressive marketing pro­ gram for new memhers, (b) estab­ MO. Ease of access, proximity to a celebration, it seems vital not to lish a system for acknowledj1;lng commercial airport, and other such choose the person who likely will be­ gifts from members In excess ofthe criteria could be considered. come the next president of the Asso­ minimum individual and family The City of Independence, MO, for ciation in secrecy without the Input of memberships. (c) encourage mem­ example, funds a budget of approxi­ the membership. With Gardner's res­ berships in excess ofthe minimums ignation coming at this crucial time, • mately $250,000 a year for the faciU­ through various means, and (d) de­ ties and staff of the National Frontier an opportunity presents Itself to velop publications and other mate­ Trails Center. Independence also pro­ choose the best leader for the Associa­ rial which can be available for pur­ tion's future. A nominating committee chase by members as well as the vides, without charge. very desirable t. general pubUc. in order to provide office space and other services to the should be appointed to determine supplementary Income for the As­ Oregon-CaUfornla Trails Association those willing to serve as vice-president sociation and add to the Uterature in a very fine building adjacent to the and, possibly, the next president. and on the Trail. National Frontier Trails Center. those names put to a vote before the membership. This can be done by us­ A volunteerboard ofdirectors cannot Even with one or more profeSSional Ing the regular election procedures be expected to devote all of the energy staff persons and volunteers. the offi­ outlined in the new bylaws. and time needed to accompUsh, over a cers and directors of the Association reasonable time frame. objectives such need to meet perhaps twice each year I have nothing against those recom­ as those given above. Therefore, the to plan. monitor, and make sure that mended by the resigtlingGardner, but Association needs a paid profeSSional the objectives of the Association are the honorable tWng to do, it seems to staff, together with part-time volun­ beingcarried out by the staff, commit­ me, Is for the board to seek the best teers, to provide active day-to-day ef­ tees, chapters, and other volunteers. talent from those members willing to forts to accompUsh these goals. Such meetings do not necessarily have serve SFTA, Including people who may In order to provide professional staff, to be held in the same city each time. not otherwise be considered. I doubt that everyone willing and able to serve membership fees need to be signifi­ The Santa Fe Trail Association has cantly Increased to a level similar to accompUshed a great deal since its as an officer or board member has made his or her wishes known. By not other such organizations. Today's in­ founding in 1986. The pubUc Interest dividual and family membership dues in the historic national trails contin­ giving all members an opportunity to at SFTA will hardly buy an annual ues to grow at an astonishing pace. serve or to nominate those who will subscription to a good magazine. The The SFTA needs to take a fresh look at serve. we run the risk of becoming potential of the Association is so great Its role and adjust its objectives and stale with the same old people running that Its members. once they better un­ operations In order to meet the 1m por­ things year after year. derstand how the funds are used to tant needs for Identifyingand preserv­ Without going to the general mem­ preserve and explain the Trail. willjoin ingthe Trail and providinginformation bership now, the governingboard runs in the effort. A Trail-related special gift for those many people who, like the risk ofbeing accused of maintain­ to members could he offered, for exam­ uS,have had their imagination and in­ ing the status quo, keeping the board pIe. when the membership fee Is first terest stimulated by the lore and tra­ and officers among only a select few, Increased above present levels. ditions of the Santa Fe Trail. and refusing to Involve in decision To become a stronger and more vi­ I would be glad to talkwith anyofyou making the very people the board rep­ able organization, the Association who would like to discuss further the resents. Although the bylaws allow the board to choose a replacement for could also consider office space with ideas set forth above. and I would also Its own identity. where one or more greatly appreciate your sharing with Gardner as vice-president. they do not professional staff persons and volun­ me your own views and experience. My exclude an election. teers can be located. The office needs office phone Is (816) 531-4500, and my I urge the officers and board to break to have and use modem office equip­ address Is 1001 West 58th Terrace, precedence and give the Santa Fe Trail ment, ifit does not already do so, such Kansas City. MO 64113-1159. Association members the opportunity as a computer. printer, fax machine, to select their future leader in an open postal equipment, storage for suppUes MORE RECOMMENDATIONS and above-board manner. and files, and fire-proof storage for by Harry C. Myers archives and important records. Ob­ MAP ERROR CORRECTION (Harry Myers, superintendent ofFort tain a telephone Usting for the Santa THE Glorieta Battlefield Map. gra­ Union National Monument, is chair­ Fe Trail Association. which does not ciously provided byBurtSchmitzas an man of the 175th anniversary com­ • now have a Usting ora telephone num­ insert in the last Issue of WT, was mittee. He sent the following sug~ ber in Lamed. KS, where the present appreciated by many members. Fran­ gestion to President But Pitts when office Is located. cis C. Kajenckl, SFTA member from EI V-P Mark L. Gardner resigned. It is The officers and directors could ex­ Paso. TX, and author of Poles in the printed here, editedforpublication by plore appropriate office space and fa­ 19th Century Southwest (1990). also Myers. you agree disagree cilities to be provided at city expense Mr. if or was concerned about the omission of with his suggestion. please commun­ by the City ofLarned in order to retain KozlowskI's Ranch from the map and icate directly with President But Pitts, the offices of the Association there. In the misspelling of Kozlowski in the SFTA. 3824 N Oak Grove Dr #824, order to attract and keep organizations gUide notes. Kajencki's letter and Sch­ Midwest City, OK 73110.) such as SFTA. communities today are mitz's response follow. often wUUng to provide such faciUties ALTHOUGH I am not a board mem­ at either reduced or no expense to the ber, I feel compelled to share my Kajencki Letter: association. Inquiries could be made thoughts on the resignation of Mark I carefully read Burt Schmitz's map

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sketch, with notations, ofthat portion ofthe rado Volunteers inthe CivilWar, from which good people are working on it. Santa FeTrail associated with the Battle of the insert was taken. The reference to Ko­ Plans are being made for a historical Glorieta Pass, March 26-28, 1862 (WT, zlowski's Ranch asthe headquarters of the reenactor to travel the Trail and pre­ August 1994). To his credit, Schmitz went Federals is covered in Whitford's text as sent educational programs at schools. out of his way to be detailed and precise. well as the Official Records. Since none of There is talk ofat leastone wagon train Yet he omits the Martin Kozlowski Ranch the battle occurred at Kozlowski's, I did not going the whole length of the trail and located on the Santa Fe Trail near the feel a particular need to devote space to another going part way, perhaps along Pecos National Historic Park. recounting the details of headquarters, the Cimarron Route only. SFTA Am­ The Kozlowski Ranch was very much a quartermastering, and the like by either bassador Les Vilda is workingon plans part of the Santa Fe Trail and the Battle of side. The importance ofKozlowski's Ranch for a living-history pack train to com­ Glorieta Pass. Colonel John Slough, the was neither denied nor omitted, it was just memorate Becknell's 1821 trip. • beyond the scope of this partiCUlar map. I Union commander, made Kozlowski's As these and other plans take shape Ranch his field headquarters. There hope the guide notes will lead those inter­ ested to visit Pecos National Historic Park my committee will continue to keep Slough and MajorJohn Chivington drew up Wagon and the site of Kozlowski's Ranch. Thanks everyone informed through the brilliant plan of battle. Kozlowski's Tracks. Chapters should keep the Ranch served as an interrogation site for to Kajencki, readers will know the impor­ tance of the ranch as well. committee apprised of plans for the some 70 captured Confederate soldiers be­ commemoration. Send information to fore they were evacuated to the rear. Ko­ The map insert was originally prepared Harry Myers, PO Box 7, Watrous NM zlowski's Ranch also served as a field hos­ for the proprietors of the Santa Fe KOA in 87753. The official calendar of events pital for wounded soldiers, and it continued 1990, to provide a guide map for sale at will be published in Wagon Tracks. to play this vital role for two months after their office to the visiting tourists and other Also, rememher that events to be pub­ the battle. enthusiasts stopping at the KOA. I pre­ licized in tourism publications need to Not only is the ranch not included on the pared some additional notes forthe supple­ have dates set by early 1995. map, it is slighted in the notes. Schmitz ment in WT, but the map was never in­ states that Chivington's force rejoined the tended to extend beyond the eastern part DATABASE PROJECT main Federal troops "near Pecos." Why not of the battle site proper. PLANNING CONTINUES state that it was Kozlowski's Ranch, the field headquarters? In one obscure refer­ 175TH ANNIVERSARY by Mary Jean Cook ence, Schmitz mentions Kozlowski's CELEBRATION PLANS (Mary Jean Cook is chairman of the Ranch but mislabels it the "Kowalski by Harry C. Myers Camino Real-Santa Fe Trail Database Ranch." All Schmitz had to do was look at Project Committee.) Colonel Slough's published report of the (Myers is chairman ofthe SFTA 175th battle, datelined "Kozlowski's Ranch, anniversary committee.) THE Camino Real-Santa Fe Trail Da­ March 29, 1862," contained in the Official tabase Committee. comprised of Mary NEWS from the chapters indicates Records, vol. IX, p. 533. Jean Cook, Marc Simmons, Michael that most have formed 175th commit­ Olsen, and Gabrielle Palmer, met in Schmitz's Response: tees and are working on plans for the Santa Fe in Septemherto considerhow celebration in 1996-1997. There are a The observations and criticisms of Fran­ best to launch this important and for­ numberofgood ideas to commemorate midable project. It was agreed that a cis Kajencki are welcome, and he has my the anniversary and continue to bene­ thanks for bringing the name error to my planning grant of $15,000 should be fit the Santa Fe Trail long after the sought, from private sources if possi­ attention. I immediately looked up the spell­ celebration is over. ing of Kozlowski on the guide notes and ble, in order to research and purchase was appalled, as he was, to find that in the The SFTA board last June passed a hardware and software and to hire an rush of drawing these notes together I had number of resolutions on the 175th. assistant for the project director. introduced a serious typo in the spelling of Most of those actions are now in pro­ Once this is accompHshed. a trial run the name. To my horror, I discovered that gress and the most notable ones in­ of entering data from different source Pigeon's Ranch was misspelled as clude the following. materials (some bilingual) will begin. "Pigon's Ranch" in the same paragraph. A new marker committee is reexam­ The first step will be to create a bibli­ These typographical oversights had ining the policies for funding markers. ography. Then test data will be entered slipped past my proofreading before mail­ Once a new policystatement is formu­ using a few major criteria. A trial ing the copy off to WT. lated by the committee and approved search for data will then be conducted Please run the following correction in the bythe board, the 175th committee will and evaluated by the committee. The next issue: "With my apologies, please cor­ recommend marking the Santa Fe scope of phase one of the project is rect the spelling of 'Pigon's Ranch' to 'Pi­ Trail both by route markers and by limited to the Santa Fe and Chihuahua geon's Ranch' and change the identifica­ interpretive signs at appropriate sites. trails, but future data from the entire tion of 'Kozlowski's Ranch' from the errone­ The board has endorsed Trail tours Camino Real must also be considered. ous 'Kowalski's' inthe last paragraph ofthe in 1996 and 1997 to be given by Leo The database will benefit future gen­ • guide notes accompanying the Glorieta and Bonita Oliva. The tours, which erations who follow the historic trails Pass and Santa Fe Trail map insert in the may also be sponsored by the Smith­ of commerce. Most likely the project August issue of Wagon Tracks. I regret sonian Associates who are arranging a will continue well into the next century these typographical errors. I don't know study-tour for 1995. will be an oppor­ before the greater portion of material what subliminal gods were working on me tunity to learn about the Trail and to will have been entered into a com­ that day. -Burt Schmitz." Kajencki's con­ see its sites first-hand. The board also puter. By then new documents and cems require further reply. encourages others to offer Trail tours information wUl have been found to As for not extending the map beyond the on a local and regional basis. greater enhance our knowledge of battle sites, that was outside the scope of Investigation is underway to sponsor those who traveled the routes. what intent of the maps and my accompanying an art show concerning the Santa Fe they carried. and the places they text in the appendix to the Rio Grande Trail during 1996. This will be a tough stopped along the way. Press reprint ofWilliam C. Whitford's Colo- one to· accomplish; however some very The department of the interior, in

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cooperation with the state ofNew Mex­ ico. in 1997 will buUd an $8.2 million center on the Camino Real at Socorro in southern New Mexico on 40 acres donated by the Bureau of Land Man­ agement. The center will depict and interpret the heroic traU saga through the centuries. If there are any charitable founda­ tions among the SFTA membership. • we earnestly seek your financial sup­ port to initiate phase one of the CR­ SFT Database Project. It will be a his­ toric journey into the future. Please contact Mary Jean Cook. CR-SFT Da­ tabase Project. PO Box 2676. Santa Fe NM 87504-2676. TRAVEUNG SEMINAR ON BENTS & CHEYENNES SFTA member John J. Warner standing In the swale of the Fort Hays - Fort Dodge Road at the Sawlog Creek Crossing on his ranch northeast of Dodge City, KS. FROM the day in 1829 when William Bent hid two Cheyennes from sure AUTO TOUR GUIDE OF FORT HAYS - FORT DODGE ROAD death at the hands of their Comanche enemies. the Bent family and the THE Wet/Dry Routes Chapter. with of the Santa Fe TraU at Fort Dodge. Southern Cheyennesbecame linked in help from the Fort Dodge/Dodge City A portion of the road. including a social and economic relationship Chapter and the Society of Friends of Sawlog Creek Crossing. is located on which continued until the Cheyennes Historic Old Fort Hays. recently pub­ the Warner Angus Ranch of SFTA were forced onto a reservation follow­ lished A Self-Guided Auto Tour of the member John J. Warner. northeast of ing the Battle of the Washita in 1868. Fort Hays - Fort DodgeRoad. giving the Dodge City. The Warners have pre­ The Historical Series sponsored by location (with a briefdescription) ofthe served the ruts and placed markers on Barton County Community College. route. remaining ruts. stream cross­ their property. Warnerkindly proVided Great Bend. KS. will offer a traveling in~. and other sites. photos of the trail on the ranch. seminar titled ~The Bents and the For a time this road comprised the To obtain a copy of this new 8-page Cheyennes/Tragedy and Travesty." eastern portion of the Santa Fe Trail. auto tour gUide. send two "29-cent designed to explore that relationship providing the link between the Union stamps to Ida Yeager. Wet/Dry Routes which lasted four decades. Included in Pacific Railway Company. Eastern Di­ Chapter. 416 Wichita. Larned KS the seminar will be visits to Bent's Old vision. at Hays Cityand the main route 67550. Fort. Bent's New Fort. Old Fort Lyon. New Fort Lyon. and Boggsville. High­ lighting the trip will be a visit to the Sand Creek site where four of William - {' Bent's chUdren witnessed the destruc­ , . tion of Black Kettle's village by troops ofthe Firstand Third Colorado Cavalry on November 29. 1864. Robert. George. Charles. and Julia Bent were there. as was Edmond Gurrier who .' later married Julia Bent. The seminar is scheduled for April 29-30. 1995. and will be repeated the following weekend on May 6-7. In both cases the seminar will originate on Saturday in Lamed. KS. with an over­ . night stay in Las Animas. CO. The . return trip to Lamed wUI be completed • by 5:30 p.m. on Sunday. Instructors are SFTA members Allce and David Clapsaddle ofLamed. Allce • is coordinator of home economics at " BCCC. David recently retired from """ox " '-'" Lamed State Hospital and is devoting full time to research and teaching re­ lated to the Santa Fe Trail and associ­ ated subjects. For more information. contact Elaine Simmons. coordinator of seminars. A party of riders Inthe ruts olthe Fort Hays - Fort Dodge Road on theWarner Ranch, BCCC. Great Bend. KS. 1-800-748­ and a trail marker with flag flying In the background. Among those pictured, In 7594. addition to Warner family members, are Bonita and Leo Oliva.

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EAGLE SERVICE PROJECTS HISTORY OF EL MORO, COLORADO BENEFIT THE TRAIL THE story of the relocation of the EI BART Winstrom. Boy Scout Troop Moro, Colorado, DAR Trail marker ap­ 239, Kinsley. KS. recently completed peared in the last (August 1994) issue an Eagle Service Award project. the of Wagon Tracks. The final chapter of removal of tons of debris from a giant that story appears in the accompany­ Trail rut near Kinsley. The swale. 200 ing photograph and information sent yards long and about five feet deep. is by SFTA board memher Mary Gamble. one ofthe most pronounced ruts along The EI Mora marker was rededicated the entire Trail. on September 28, 1994. and a special • Bart's brother. Travis. recently com­ bronze plaque was attached to the base of the monument. pleted an Eagle Service Award Project. I also, the production ofa map depicting Mrs. James Polliard, Colorado Chap­ •v the five separate routes ofthe SantaFe ter regent, was in charge of the cere­

. ~_..-..~, Trail network. in Pawnee. Edwards. monies. Mrs. Harvey Phelps, DAR .-....-."'<- - _ _.. -"'-'--0'-..',._--..." . state corresponding secretary. gave and Ford counties in Kansas. This This bronze plaque was placed on the the address for Mrs. Donald G. White, map is displayed at the Edwards base oUheEI Moro DAR marker, andthe state regent. Mrs. Danny Self led the County Historical Museum in Kinsley. marker was rededicated on September David Clapsaddle served as adviser on patriotic ceremonies. 28, 1994. (Photo courtesy of Leo Gamble.) both projects. Some time back SFTA member Also completing an Eagle Service Robert Musselwhite, Raton, NM, sent The historical sketch reads as follows: . Award Project was Matt Waldren, the following information about the EI Moro. Founded in February, 1876, the Troop 238, Lewis. KS. Matt's project . historyofthe town which served as the year Colorado was admitted into the Union, was the compilation of a directory of eastern terminus of the Santa Fe Trail by Ex-Gov. A. C. Hunt. He named the town sites marked by the Wet/Dry Routes for two years. It was collected by his EI Moro from MoroCastle, in Cuba. As Mr. Chapter in Pawnee. Edwards, and late brother, Bill Musselwhite. and Hunt came across the prairies in former Ford counties. In addition to the currently belongs to Bill's sons. years and first beheld the summit of Raton names and addresses of the property Thanks to the Musselwhite family for peak, its appearance reminded him of EI owners on whose land each marker is preserving and sharing this material. Moro Castle as one enters the harbor at placed, the legal description of each Both items are reprinted here as origi­ Havana, Cuba, and EI Moro has existed site is noted. Copies of this directory nally published. ever since in the mind of the ex-govemor have been placed at the Santa Fe Trail until 1876 he became superintendent of Center. Fort Larned NHS, and the Kan­ From the Trinidad Chronical News. June 8. 1937: construction of the Denver & Rio Grande sas State Historical Society. Larry Mix railway company, and coming south from assisted with this project, with Clap­ HISTORY OF EL MORO, WRITTEN IN Pueblo had J. R. DiReimer, then assistant saddle serving as ad\Tiser. 1892, FOUND IN OLD BUILDING. Docu­ general engineer of the company, locate FORT ATKINSON MARKER ment Uncovered As Abandoned Church the town of EI Moro. Building is Being Dismantled-Filled With At that time and for two years after, EI THE site of Fort Atkinson, two miles Data of Pioneer Period. Moro was the extreme southern terminus west of Dodge City, has been marked Secreted in a can that had been placed of railroad facilities and all the products of through a jointventure bythe Wet/Dry between the bricks of a church building wall New Mexico, Arizona, western Texas and Route and Fort Dodge/Dodge City at EI Mora more that 40 years ago, an northern Mexico were brought to EI Moro chapters of SFTA. This military post eight-page document, detailing the early for shipment, north to Denver, thence, east was established as Camp Mackay history of EI Moro and of this part of Colo­ via the Kansas Pacific. During those two along the Santa Fe Trail in 1850 to rado, was discovered by workmen several years, 1876 to 1878, from 200 to 500 wag­ proVide protection for travelers and days ago as they were engaged in disman­ ons were camped in and around EI Moro, traders from Indians in the regton. It tling the building, long since abandoned, with droves of horses and mules ~nd herds was later named Fort Atkinson. An and which was once the Presbyterian of oxen which drew the immense loads of important treatywas signed there with church of EI Moro. hides, wool and pelts and other products of several plains tribes in 1853. The identity of the author of the manu­ the southern countries into market and in Fort Atkinson was manned from script is unknown as the writings, well pre­ exchange would return loaded with provi­ 1850 to 1853 and again during the served and in an extremely legible hand­ sions and all kinds ofmerchandise from the summer of 1854 before it was aban­ writing, bore no signature. The paper used, east. doned. The history of this post. con­ however, were letterheads of EI Moro's In 1877 there was more wool shipped structed of sod. may be found in Leo pioneer merchant, Thomas Cook, who from EI Moro than any point in the world, • E. Oliva, "Fort Atkinson on the Santa passed away several years ago. except one point in Australia. Fe Trail. 1850-1854," Kansas Histori­ The historical sketch was dated July 13, J. D. Root was the first railroad agent cal Quarteriy. XL (Summer 1974): 212­ 1892, but indications are that data was here. He was succeeded by Syrus Eckers. • 233. added to the writing at subsequent times J. R. DiReimer, Sr., was his successor, The site of this historic Trail fort is and prior to the erection of the building. then came J. W. Shryock, J. M. Overheiser located on property which previously , Tom Mariano of EI Moro, one of the was next to take charge of the company's belonged to the parents of Janet workmen dismantling the building, came business. He was succeeded by W. W. Bevers, president of the Fort across the tin can between the bricks. He Whitmarsh and he byT. C. Kelley, who now Dodge/Dodge City Chapter. Although opened the can to find the papers which he holds the position. nothing remains of the military post, turned over to the Community Newspaper A. P. Hunt was the first postmaster. D. R. its location i!:l now identified for poster­ for inspection. He plans to keep the papers Bradley, H. T. O'Farrell, J; P. Detamore, C. ity. as a personal souvenir. S. West, Thomas Cook, William M. Paul

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and A. E. Litz, all in succession as named Mr. chuurch until 1885, when Rev. R. Van Wilcox, who established their business have held the office. Voohers, Miss Jennie DeBusk, J. B. here in 1882, underthe direct management James McKeough, Sr., was the first jus­ Harvey, Z. Taylor, J. J. Thompson, William of Mr. H. W. Gibbons, who has had many tice of the peace. George Sumner, J. P. Arnett, Mrs. Anna B. Woods, J. W. Reeder year's experience in the wholesale line of and Mrs. Elizabeth Moad. The two last this trade, and the entire business book­ Detamore, James McKeough, Sr., J. P. devolve~ Detamore, C. S. West, H. M. Brandenburg, named are engaged as teachers at pre­ keeping, purchasing, etc, upon N. Chavez, N. F. Davis and J. P. Detamore sent. All have done excellent work. Besides him. He also conducts a branch house at all succeeded each other in the order these who have taught in the public school the coke ovens, several miles distant from named. we have had numerous private schools EI Mora. A large and varied stock of dry which were well patronized. goods, groceries, ladies' and gent's fur­ Although EI Moro was a frontier town , nishings goods and kindred articles is car­ • there have been but five persons killed Strange to say, EI Mora did not have a ried, and operations are both by wholesale here, and it never received a hard name as regularly organized church until 1885, and retail. Messrs. Barela & Wilcox are some of the new towns of that time. when Rev. R. Dodd was appointed at EI , Mora and to him we are indebted for the large purchasers of wool, hides, etc., which \" EI Moro never was much of a place for first church organization. He was pastor is a prominent feature of their present in­ the newspaper business. A. W. Archibald here for four years and was succeeded by dustry. Their store is located on the corner started a paper here in 1876, the "Enter­ Rev. C. W. Bell, who has been pastor here of Main and Aqua streets, and is 24x60 in prise," but its life was short. No attempt was for three years and has just been elected size, built of stones and two stories high. made to revive the business of journalism for another year. The office is 24x15 and conveniently ar­ in EI Moro until 1887. E. J. Curan started ranged for the transaction of business. A There are at present 40 members of the the "New Era." Trinidad was enjoying a warehouse 25x50 adjoinsthe main building First Presbyterian church. The present "boom" at that time and he though[t] it could and it is at all times stocked to the utmost Sabbath school was organized in 1879 and be drawn this way. It was still shorter lived capacity. The basement of the main build­ had been well supported and attended ever than the "Enterprise." Ben Griffith and ing, 24x75 feet in size, is filled with wines since and is at present the best Sabbath Hamilton Prope founded the "EI Moro Dis­ liquors and cigars ofthe finest brands, both school in the county outside of Trinidad. patch; edited by Griffith, for a short time, domestic and imported. The members of Thomas Atterberry is superintendent at then by J. P. Detamore and Robert Davis this well-known house are, Han. Casimiro present, Rev. G. W. Bell assistant superin­ successively until March 4, 1890, when the Barela, who is countyjudgeandstate sena­ t~ndent,. E. C. Carnahan secretary, George plant was destroyed by fire. tor, and is also largely interested in the Lltz assistant secretary, Mrs. P. B. Coffelt EI Moro has had two disastrous fires. cattle and wool business with the well­ treasurer. Jewett Detamore, Mrs. E. C. One occurred on July 5, 1888, which de­ known firm of Hall Bros., of Kansas City, Carnahan, Mrs. M. Moore, Mrs. H. L. Beck stroyed one whole block-about $50,000 ~nd Mr. JB:mes Wilcox, who is also largely and Miss Julia Litz are teachers with schol­ ~orth of property was lost with only partial Interested In the cattle business. Both part­ ars enrolled. I~surance. The property destroyed con­ ners are highly respected in the community Sisted of two general merchandise stores The library was destroyed byfire in 1890. an~ are notably active practically promoting belonging to James Wilcox and Thomas Steps are being taken to raise funds to buy all Interests that will benefit EI Moro. another library and within a short time we Cook: a hotel belonging to J. R. DiReimer, J. P. Detamore. Jr.; a livery stables and icehouse belonging hope to have as good, if not better library than we lost. Mr. Detamore has been a resident of to Daul Brogan, besides saloons, restau­ Colorado for the past thirteen years and rants, dwellings and warehouses, in all We now come to the society of ladies came here from Virginia. He established w~o fourteen buildings. The next fire occurred were prime movers in the building of himself in business here February 1 1884 March 4, 1890, and was the wor!< of an thiS church. We mean the Ladies Mite so­ an? he car~es a select stock of drug~, toilet ~iety ~oro. incendiary. It destroyed the only hotel re­ of EI This society was organized articles, cigars and tobacco, stationery, maining, store, church hall, K. of P. hall, the In 1889 with Mrs. L E. Wade as president. candies, etc. Dr. Thompson, a capable and Dispatch office, C. C. & I. office, butcher There are. 20 members of the society. They popular gentlemen, has charge ofthe drug shop and other buildings, about $20,000 gave SOCiables and all kinds of entertain­ department and acts as assistant postmas­ worth of property with only $4,600 insur­ ments to raise funds for the church. They ter, Mr. Detamore being postmaster' which ance. also started a subscription list which has appol~tme"!. he hasjust received. Hisplace The Colorado Coal & Iron company has been liberally signed, both by citizens of EI of bUSiness IS located on Main street and is a~d mines adjacent to the town and 250 coking Moro Trinidad, and todaythey bring, as 25x75 feet in size. His stock is first-class ovens. The products of both mines and an offering, the "first fruits" of their toll and and varied in all details. labor. ovens are shipped from this point, and C. S. West. amounts to from 40 to 165 cars per day. But there are some who were members This gentleman came here sixyears ago ofthe society and took an active part in the At this time EI Moro has three churches and has been justice of the peace for some war!< who are not with us today. They have Catholic, Methodist South and this on~ time, dealing out justice in a conscientious moved away and are scattered in different (Pr~sbyterian). Two stores, a postoffice, a manner to those who are in need of it. He parts of the country, but we feel that their • station, roundhouse with six stalls, a 20­ is.a1so engaged in mercantile pursuits, car­ hearts are with us in the war!<. There are dump coal chute and other railroad build­ ryl~g a complete and varied stock of gro­ others who were members of the society ings, other businesses of importance are cenes and fancy goods. His place of busi­ here. who have been called home some ad- , . ' ness ~s kn~wn as the ."EI Mora Grocery . vanced In age who had completed the Mas- The public school of EI Moro is not ofthe Store, and It was established here in Janu­ ter'stask and are goingto claim the reward. least importance. Our schoolhouse cost ary 1884. The Judge isfrom St. Louis, and, Others young and beautiful, gems to be­ $6,500 and isthe best country schoolhouse al~hough his business is young, he has met deck the Master's crown. in the county. with splendid success, and his store which From WEI Moro." The Leading Indus­ is located on Main street and is 1ax25 feet Miss Mollie Moore, now Mrs. O. T. Clark, tries ofthe West. 70-73: was the first to teach a school in EI Moro. in size, is at all times the scene of lively ~ohn W. Douthitt, the present county super­ Barela & Wilcox. trade. Intendent ofpublicschools, was oursecond The largest general merchandise house Daniel Brogan. teacher; then followed, in the order named, in EI Mora is that of Messrs. Barela &

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The gentleman above named represents the leading livery, feed and sale stable and LONG EXPEDITION AND WIUJAM BECKNELL ice and transfer business in EI Moro. He by Harry C. Myers came here and established his industry in 1876 and is located near the track of the (Myers is afrequent contributor to WT were on the Long expedition and at Denver &Rio Grande railway. Mr. Brogan and has been perusing the Missouri Franklin, Missouri, after the conclu­ keeps constantly on hand the finest live Intelligencerfor any information that sion of that expedition and before stock and vehicles and in his transfer busi­ relates to the Santa Fe TraU and Becknell left for New Mexico. There­ ness, he is preparedtotransfer passengers trade.) fore, either may have discussed their and freight to and from Trinidad at the IN the last issue ofWagon Tracks, the journey with Becknell. While this in­ lowest possible rate legitimate trade will formation is not proof that a member editor inquired whether WUllam Beck­ I. permit. The ice house is 3Ox100 and is nell could have had contact with any­ or members ofthe Long expedition did constantly supplied so as to meet any de­ one from the Major Stephen Long ex­ talk with Becknell, itdemonstrates the mand on short notice. The ice he offers to pedition of 1818-1820 before Becknell possibility. the public is taken from the Las Animas I, started his journey to Santa Fe in Sep­ In addition, the following article was river. Mr. Brogan is a valuable citizen and temberof 1821. The answer is not only published in the Missouri Intelligencer, deserves the success he is now meeting yes but very likely so. January 15, 1821. Even ifBecknelldid with. The Long party ended its journey in not talk directly to anyone from the There is no railroad link connecting EI September 1820 at Fort Smith (Belle Long expedition, this article, Zebulon Moro, on the Denver & Rio Grande, with Pointe), Arkansas. That party· con­ Pike's account and his maps, and the Trinidad, on the Atchinson, Topeka and sisted of Major Stephen H. Long, Cap­ knowledge of Ezekiel Williams (at Santa Fe. These prominent points, which tain James R. Bell, W. H. Swift, Tho­ whose house Becknell had one of his are the Pittsburgh and the Philadelphia, mas Say, E. James, Titian R. Peale, meetin~ to plan his trip) would have respectively ofLasAnimas county, are only and Samuel Seymour. These seven allowed an intelligent person to layout five miles apart, however, and a most men traveled to Washington, D.C., a route to Santa Fe where WUllam pleasant horseback, carriage or stage ride from Fort Smith in September 1820. Becknell and five others arrived on over an exceedingly delightful country will However, there were several members November 16, 1821. Itseems probable in a very short time bring the visitor from EI of the party who did not go to Wash­ that Becknell knew fairly well where he Moro to Trinidad. ington and who were probably resi­ was going and how to get there when he left Missouri in September of that OCTA OVERLAND EMIGRANT dents of the frontier. They were Stephen Julien, interpreter; H. year. NAMES PROJECT Dougherty, hunter; David Adams, Missouri InfelUgencer, THE October 1994 issue ofNewsfrom Spanish interpreter; Zachariah Wil­ January 15, 1821 the Plains, newsletter of the Oregon­ son, baggage master; James Oakley From the National Intelligencer [Washing­ California Trails Association (aCTA), and James Duncan, engagees; and ton, D.C.]. announces the establishment of the Corporal Parish and six privates ofthe U.S. Army.l Of the North Western regions of the U. Overland Emigrant Names program to States. serve inidlviduals seeking references H. Dougherty was the brotherofMa­ We were yesterday gratLed with a few to ancestors and others who traveled jor John Dougherty, Indian agent at minutes conversation with Capt. J. R. Bell, the overland trails in the 19th century Council Bluffs. Not much else is known about the others except that who arrived in this city on Tuesday, from and whose names were recorded in Cape Girardeau, in Missouri, which place diaries, journals, and reminiscences they (with the exception ofthe soldiers) were hired at Engineer Cantonment he left on the 13th October last. The infor­ written by emigrants who traveled the mation derived from him was so interesting trails. The survey of documents and (Council Bluffs) and therefore likely residents ofthe area. The post office for to us, that we believe our readers will be compilation of the database will con­ pleased with some account of it. tinue for some time. There is a fee of Council Bluffs and the surrounding $10 ($8 for aCTA members) per sur­ frontier was at Franklin, Missouri, Wil­ Capt. Bell was second in rank of an name plus a shippingcharge of$2. For liam Becknell's place of residence. Exploring Expedition, under the command more Information, write to Overland The Franklin newspaper, the Missouri of Maj. Long, the objects of which were Emigrant Names, aCTA Headquar­ Intelligencer, published everyquartera topographical and scienti_c information re­ ters, PO Box 1019, Independence MO list ofnames ofpeople who had mail at specting the vast wilderness of country 64051-0519. the post office which had not been which stretches from the Council Bluffs, on claimed. Although there is no way to the Missouri, to the foot ofthe Rocky Moun­ HATHAWAY PUBUSHES state with certainty they are the same tains, of which so little is yet known. The MEMOIRS OF WWII persons, names of some of the Long expedition being wholly paci_c in its ob­ party members appeared in the un­ jects, consisted of some twenty soldiers 2 RALPH Hathaway, SFTA ambassador claimed letters list in the Intelligencer. only, and the following of_cers and artists, and proprietor of Ralph's Ruts near In the issue ofJanuary 29, 1821, the besides the two of_cers already men­ Memofries of list ofunclaimed letters at the Franklin tioned: Lieutenant Graham, Id. Swift, Dr. Chase, KS, has written' ,; WWlI (Daddy Flew an Undenvood). post office as of December 3 I, 1820, Say, Dr. James, and Messrs. Seymour and , Ralph served in the 58th Air Service included a David Adams. Because he Peale, designers and painters. Group of the Army Air Corps. His was not included In the list of March The expedition sat out from the Council memoirs are exceptionally well written 31, It may be assumed that Adams Bluffs on the 6th of June, directing their and detailed, based in part on hun­ claimed his letter before March 31, course _rst to the Pawnee villages, on a dreds of letters written to the girl back 1821. The issues ofJuly 1821 publish­ fork ofthe La Platte, distant about 120miles home, with manyinsights into military ed the list as of June 30, 1821, which from the Council Bluffs; and thence pro­ life. His recollections, privately included James Duncan.· ceeded to the Rocky Mountains, distant printed, comprise a significant docu­ Thus the likelihood exists that David about 400 miles from the Pawnee villages. ment of the era. Adams or James Duncan, or both, The interval is a rolling prairie country, of

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course destitute of hills and wood, [and) the government ofsuch information aswas Park system. that the mountains are visible at the dis­ indispensable to judicious arrangements • • • • • tance of 120 miles. Time has not yet al­ for the support and protection ofthe Ameri­ The Trail of Tears, route followed by lowed a calculation of the observations, can population penetrating intothat country the Cherokees in their removal from which were made as accurately as circum­ this expedition ought, and we hope will, North Carolina, Georgta. and Tennes­ form the subject of one of the most attrac­ stances would allow: but it is supposed the see to Oklahoma in the late 18308. has greatest height of the ridge does not ex­ tive works ever published in this country. been added to the national historic ceed the elevation of four thousand feet What struck us most impressively in this trails system. The Trail 'of Tears Na­ above the base of the mountain. brief narrative was that some thousand tional Historic Trail will be adminis­ The Expedition separated into two par­ miles on this side of our utmost Western tered by the National Park Service. " ties, near the point on the Arkansas desig­ boundary, or, inotherwords, about halfway nated on the maps as Pike's block house. between Mississippi River and the Paci_c • • • • • The one party, under the command of Ocean an exploring party has met with Several places along. the Santa Fe Trail in Jackson County. MO, are now Major Long proceeded thence with a view several tribes of men, the aboriginees and " to strike the head waters of Red river. But proprietors of the soil of the country, who on the National Regtster of Historic it appearsthe mapswhichwe have arevery were ignorant, not only of the existence of Places. including Blue Mills. several houses at Independence. and Trail defective, the courses of the rivers being the People of the United States, but of the almost wholly conjectural, and often en­ existence of a race ofwhite people! It gives segments at Santa Fe Trail Park in tirely fabulous. The expedition did not attain us an awful idea of the magnLcent extent Independence and at Minor Park in Kansas City. the object sought, because it was not to be of the domain of the Republic. found where it is laid down in the maps and • • • • • fell upon the waters ofthe Canadian fork of NOTES Two Trail sites in Cimarron County, the Arkansas, which it pursued, and termi­ 1. "Muster Roll of the 1820 Expedition: Richard G. OK, have been added to the National Wood. Stephen Ha"iman Long, 1784-1864: Army nated its tour at Belle Point on the Arkan­ Engineer, Explorer, InllBntor, FrontierMilitarySeries, Register of Historic Places. The Cold sas, the post mentioned in the late Mes­ VI (Glendale: Arthur H. Clark Co., 1966). 100; Spring and Inscription Rock Historic sage of the Presidentto Congress, as being Maxine Benson, ed., From Pinsburgh to the Rocky District includes a fresh water spring. the advanced post of our cordon in that Mountains: Major Stephen Long's Expedition 18t8­ springhouse. stage station. and sand­ direction. t820 (Golden, CO: Fulcrum. Inc. 1988), 149. stone bluff wall containing names 2. Copies of the Missouri Intelligencerand Boon's Lick The other party, under the command of Advertiser are available on microfilm from the Slate carved by Trail travelers. The Auto­ Capt. Bell, proceeded down the Arkansas Historical Society of Missouri, Columbia graph Rock Historic District has four to Belle Point, which place they reached on Trail segments and Autograph Rock, the 6th September, after an absence of another sandstone bluff with inscrip­ three monthsfrom the haunts of civilization. tions of Trail travelers. Below the First Fork ofthe Arkansas, as • • • • • it was named by Pike, they met several The Kansas Dept. of Tourism re­ hunting parties of strange Indians, whose cently sponsored a tour of the Santa names even have rarely, if ever, been Fe Trail across Kansas for travel writ­ heard of before; belonging to the tribes of HOOF PRINTS ers. all in preparation for the celebra­ the Arrapahoes, the Kaskapas, the Kiawas, tion of the 175th anniversary in 1996. and the Chayennes. They are frequently, -TRAIL TIDBITS~- SFTA member Karla French. Ulysses, and perhaps at present, engaged in war KS. compiled a superb 28-page hand­ withthe Pawnees, Osages, and othertribes Jane Mallinson sends word that the out for the writers when they visited of whom we have some knowledge. Of the damages to the DAR Madonna Statue Wagonbed Spring. entitled ~Wagonbed Indians met by our party, none have ever at Lexington, MO. reported in the last Spring Along the Santa Fe Trail." been into our settlements. They appeared wr. have been repaired (see photo on • • • • • to be wholly ignorant of the existence of p. 13). She especially thanks those SFTA member Mary Jean Cook, such a people as those of the United who sent donations. Additional funds States, or indeed of the existence of any will be greatly appreciated; send to Santa Fe, NM, has produced another fine issue ofCompadres. newsletter of people of a fairer complexion than the in­ Madonna Fund. PO Box 8604. Sugar the Friends of the Palace ofthe Gover­ habitants of Mexico, or the adjacent Span­ Creek, MO 64054. nors. For more information or to Join. ish provinces, of whom it appeared they • • • • • had some knowledge. Being made to un­ write to Friends of the Palace, PO Box derstand the existence of such a govern­ The National Frontier Trails Center 9312. Santa Fe NM 87504-9312. ment, its power and its humane policy, as at Independence, MO, has acqUired a • • • • • second historic wagon, this time an exempli_ed in its treatment of other Indian SFTA memhership recently stood at original Conestoga built about 1850. tribes, they expressed a great desire to be 1,280, about 100 fewer than one year taken by the hand by the United States, and This wagon will be used in an expan­ ago. New memberships keep comingin sion ofthe Santa Fe Trail exhibit at the to place themselves under our protection. as shown by the listing of new mem­ Center. The other wagon. purchased The topographers, medical gentlemen, bers in each issue of " earlier this year, is a prairie schooner wr. < and painters attached to this expedition, which is used in the Oregon-California • • • • • have collected abundant materials for cor­ Trail exhibit. In June 1994 a cloudburst and flood recting some of the gross errors in the • • • • • at Wagonbed Spring south of Ulysses• received geography ofthis part ofour coun­ KS. resulted in considerable erosion try, for making important additions to medi­ The Friends of Arrow Rock cele­ and damage to the site. Repairs have cal botany, and to the stock of our geo­ brated the 160th anniversary of the been made by memhers of the Wagon­ graphical knowledge of our own territory; Huston Tavern on September 18. bed Spring Chapter. and the painters have many interesting and 1994. The tavern was built beside the valuable 'sketches of the prominent fea­ Santa Fe Trail in 1834 and was re­ • • • • • tures of the country. Besides possessing cently restored by the Missouri State Travelers following the Trail in New

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Mexico have access to toll-free tele­ HARRY TRUMAN AND THE SELECTION OF SITES phone numbers for tourist information at three communities, includingwhere FOR THE DAR MADONNA STATUES, PART I to stay and eat. The numbers are: by Jane Mallinson Raton Chamber of Commerce, 800­ 638-6161; Las Vegas/San Miguel County Chamber of Commerce, 800­ (Mallinson is the Missouri DAR TraUs ket roads second to none." Thatgotout 832-5947; and Santa Fe Convention & chairman and has written about DAR the votes. His interest in history and Visitor Bureau. 800-777-CITY.. markers and the Madonna statuesfor promotion ofgood roads soon led to his • • • • • WT. She received an SFTA award of selection as president of the National merit in 1993 for her work. This is Old Trails Road Association. founded The Peckerwood Club. a restaurant • first in a two-part series on Truman's in 1912. The object ofthe association located on the old Santa Fe Trail west letters to his wife about the selection was "to assist the Daughters of the of Lexington, MO, recently reopened of sites in the Trail states. His cor­ American Revolution in marking Old after being closed for seven years. Col­ I respondence relating to New Mexico Trails and to promote the construction umnist James J. Fisher wrote about it • and Colorado will appear in the next of an Ocean-to-Ocean Highway of in the Kansas City Star. August 14. issue. The letters quoted arefrom the modern type worthy of its memorial 1994. It sounds like a good place for Truman personal family papers character." Trail travelers to eat. . located in the archives at the Truman In 1927-1928 Judge Truman, Mrs. • • • • • Library, Independence, MO.) Moss. and Frank Davis, who served as SFTA member Jackie Lewin, St. secretary and manager. toured the Joseph. MO. is OCTA's vice-president ON September 30. 1927. Harry Tru­ man wrote his wife, Bess. "we came on twelve states to select the Madonna of and president-elect. She will become the Trail sites. Only their efforts in the OCTA's first woman president in 1995. to Council Grove where the band met us at 9:30 P.M. march down the street Santa Fe Trail states are considered Congratulations Jackie. in front of the cars and delivered us at here. The reqUirements for site selec­ • • • • • the city hall where the D.A.R. women tion in each state included (I) It must SFTA board member Ross Marshall. were in session." be located on the National Old Trails Merriam, KS. was dedication speaker Road, (2) it must be placed where the The search was on to choose sites for traveling public can see it. and (3) it this past summer for a new historical the twelve Daughters of the American marker placed at New Santa Fe. MO, must be on a site which will be pro­ Revolution (DAR) Madonna ofthe Trail tected and maintained and "not be­ in the New Santa Fe Cemetery. Visible statues, four of which were to be in wagon ruts remain in the cemetery. come neglected or overgrown with Santa Fe Trail states: Missouri. Kan­ weeds." New Santa Fe was on the Santa Fe, sas, Colorado, and New Mexico. Other Oregon. and California trails. Marshall states to receive the statues were In Missouri, Lexington met all those Is director of the Alexander Majors Maryland. Pennsylvania. West Virgi­ reqUirements. The town was settled in House Museum in Kansas City. nia. Ohio. Indiana. lllinois. Arizona. 1820 by Virginia and Kentucky piO­ neers. It carried heavy river traffic and • • • • • • and California. was located on the route of western The crew members from the subma­ Earlier In the century the DAR in travel; in fact. it was the starting point rine U.S.S. santaFe who recentlybiked Missouri, Kansas, Colorado, and New for. some overland travelers. The site the Trail from New Franklin to Santa Mexico had placed granite markers selected there is at the Junction of the Fe. had a good trip and were honored along the major routes ofthe Santa Fe National Old Trails Road and the Old on arrival in Santa Fe. SFTA board Trail. The success of that project was Jack's Ferry Road on the Santa Fe member Margaret Sears arranged for followed by a plan to mark routes of Trail overlooking the Missouri River. a welcome on the Santa Fe plaza. and pioneer travel from coast to coast with Because the committee was able to the bikers were named honorary citi­ cast-iron signs. drive from Kansas City to Lexington zens of the city. In 1924 that project was changed to and back in one day. Truman had no • • • • • honor pioneer women with a special need to write home. Thus there is no Approximately 100 participants from statue in the twelve states containing correspondence by him on the selec­ six states and one foreign country en- . the National Old Trails Road, a modern tion of this site. joyed the fifth annual Santa Fe Trail highway that followed overland routes When the party started west. he Tour conducted by the Cimarron, OK. ofthe pioneers from the Atlantic Ocean wrote almost daily to Bess, who re­ County Historical Society on October to the PaCific coast. mained home with their 31~-year-old 1. Sites visited Included Flag Sprin~, Mrs. John Moss Trigg of St. Louis. daughter, Margaret. These letters Aubry Trail crossing. Signature Rock, MO, served as chairman of the DAR summarized the travels, sites consid­ Autograph Rock, Fort Nichols, and Mc­ NationalOld Trails Committee. August ered. and those selected. Truman was Nees Crossing. Leimbach (1882-1965), a St. Louis impressed with the hospitality extend­ •• • • • • sculptor, designed the ten-foot high ed to the committee everywhere they Over one million people participated monuments which became known as visited. The following letter written to in the second annual National Trails Madonna of the Trail statues. The ex­ "Dear Bess" from Council Grove on J Day in June 1994. with more than penses of the erection of these monu­ September 30. 1927. covers the auto­ 2.500 events scheduled nationwide. ments. approximately $1,000 each, mobile journey to that comm unity and National Trails Day has become Amer­ was guaranteed by the National Old the plans for the trip from that point ica's largest celebration of the out­ Trails Road Association headed by Into Colorado. doors. The third annual event is set for Harry S Truman. We left the Meuhlbach on time, arrived in June 3, 1995. For more information Truman. Independence. MO, was Olathe at 9:30 looked at their site and then write to National Trails Day. American elected presiding judge of Jackson went home with ex-Gov. Hodges to coffee Hiking Society. PO Box 20160. Wash­ County in 1926, when he was 43 years and toast served by the good looking ington DC 20041-2160. old. His platform was "Farm and mar- daughters of the Hodges Bros. They each

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have one about eighteen. We then made a "SOUTHWESTWARD HO!" canvass of the situation and had to wait until 11 :45 for the cars from Baldwin to SAM BEAN ON THE SANTA FE TRAIL arrive. Got to Baldwin at 1:30 where they gave us lunch and the President of Baker (Harry C. Myers recommended and was a regular place ofmeeting of the team­ University told us why we should put the prepared the following reprint of the sters every night, and all the young bloods monument on the campus. It is a very chapter titled "Southwestward Ho!" of the neighborhood who were anxious to remarkable school having been founded in from C. L. Sonnichsen's book, Roy make the plunge into the great wilds ofthe the fifties and was coeducational from its Bean: Law West of the Pecos, West would be there. They would tell about founding. It is one of Kansas' three accred­ originally published in 1943 and the buffalo hunts and bloodcurdling stories ited Universities, has about 600 students. reprinted in 1958 and 1972, which about the frequent battles with the Co­ About four hundred couples have married includes Sam Bean's recollections of manche and Arapaho Indians. The hard­ ". from the University and there is only one .travel on the Santa Fe Trail in the ships ofthe voyage and what they suffered divorce, happened last year. Some record 1840s. The entire chapter is re­ they knewwould not be so interestingtothe I'd say.· producedfor the benefit ofTraUfans boys, and that phase of the trip was pur­ ,~')' We had supper in Burlingame where we who wUl enjoy the information and posely kept in the background. To cap the listened to a plea for the monument by a mayflnd it useful to their study ofthe climax, they would wind up with a graphic commissioned officer in the Federal army history of the route. Myers said he description of the dark-eyed Senoritas in and a man who had been over all the trails would do this ifhe were editor.) the land of the Montezumas; that was a seventy years ago. He is 87 years old, had clincher, and all the wavering fell into line, IN the summer of 1847 Sam Bean came determined to go to the Spanish country, all his faculties, and made us the best home and sat his weary bones down on the speech we've heard. as New Mexico was then called. I caught doorstep as ifhe neverwanted to move. He the prevailing fever, too, and without any We came on to Council Grove where the was lean and hard, and his skin was a rich necessity for so doing went and hired to band met us at 9:30 P.M. march down the walnut shade where it showed through his drive a team of six yoke of oxen and· a street in front of the cars and delivered us bushy beard. wagon to Santa Fe, in the month of May, at the city hall where the DAR. women "Where you been, Sam?" they asked 1845. To walk a thousand miles across a were in session. They read us the history him. forlom desert, in those times, that was the of the town showed us the site and then I ultra test of manhood; and the boy or man called you. "Fightin' the Mexicans," said Sam. "' just got my discharge at New Orleans the end who could do that was considered a manly We'll be in Herington at 9:30 at Marion at of June and I ain't fixin' to fight any more man. Others had done it, why could not I do 11 :30 for lunch at McPherson in the after­ wars." the same? One novel attraction in Inde­ noon and Lyons to stay all night. We are to pendence, at times, was the merchant's get through all right. You should be along. In the days that followed they heard all return trains from Chihuahua dumping about it-all about the great plains and the I haven't spent a nickle and I can't. They down in the streets thousands and thou­ high mountains, the strange men and the won't let me even the phone call was free. sands of silver Mexican dollars, then at a Hope I see a letter at Lyons or Dodge or lovely women, the fighting and suffering par with American gold all over the United and adventure. some where. We'll be in Dodge at noon States. The dollars were sewed up in green Saturday. Saturday night at La Hunta at the It would be something to hear those sto­ rawhide bags which when dry were as hard Harvey house. ries that Sam told on the shady side of the as boulders, that being found to be the Kiss my baby and look at my sweetie for house that summer while the younger safest way oftransporting the money from me in your mirror. Beans' mouths hung open and their eyes Mexico. The starting and getting the wag­ popped. Well, strangely enough it is still ons out on the prairies was a very perplex­ A following letter, dated October 2, possible to hear them. Four months before ing business. Wild oxen and mules caught· 1927, announced that Council Grove he died in 1903 Sam wrote some of his bad been selected for the Kansas up on the prairies had to be harnessed and memories down and gave them to a local assigned to the wagons; for the first time monument. There the statue faces newspaper. This is Sam's account, theyfelt the manilla rope on their necks. But west in Madonna Park, an area for­ touched up by the editor ofthe Rio Grande merly known as the Santa Fe Trail the Missouri boys of muscle and brawn Republican, Las Cruces, New Mexico: knew how to manage the wild mules and Campground, overlooking the Neosho oxen, some of them as wild and ferocious River crossing. Nearby is the Council "I left Kentucky near Louisville in the year Oak where a treaty was signed on Au­ 1845, and came to Independence, Mo. as if they had come from the jungles of gust 10, 1825, with the Osage Indians That was a fast town in those days; the tide Africa. Think ofthe poor drivers who had to by the commissioners surveying the of emigration had set in for Oregon; the pick out the mates and yoke them up every morning for the day's joumey over swollen Santa Fe Trail. The treaty gave mer­ town was alive with emigrants, and being creeks and small rivers, that came uptothe chants and pioneers the right to travel headquarters for the Santa Fe and Chihua­ armpits and left the water sloshing in the through the region on the Trail. hua traders, the teamsters also who were alWays there inforce formed a considerable shoes. Often have I slept ofa night with wet The Madonnas in Missouri and Kan­ portion of the surging throng destined to feet and body wet up to my arms, but never • sas were dedicated in September cross the great American deserts. Every­ took cold. There was a very strange infatu­ 1928, Council Grove on September 7 body seemed imbued with the spirit of ad­ ation about these men; they would go trip and Lexington on September 17. Mrs. venture. I was young then, and in for any­ after trip across the plains, and the oftener Moss and Mr. Truman spoke to enthu­ thing that was tinged with romance or wild they went and the more hardships they siastic crowds on each occasion. Both adventure, and nothing thrilled my nerves suffered the more intense wasthe desire to towns held all-day celebrations and so much asthe storiesthe teamsters would go again. They became veterans of the honored their pioneer settlers. The tell us in Independence where a large num­ plains and veteran teamsters; robust wiry monuments still stand in those com­ ber were congregated to hiretheir services young fellows, they never were so happy in munities, commemorating the pioneer as veterans of the plains, to steer a ten­ their lives as when they were popping their women in America's westward move­ mule wagon and team or six yoke of oxen whips over their teams way out in the buf­ ment. across that desert of a thousand miles, falo part of the desert, where the Co­ (Part II will appear in the next issue.) fraught with danger at every step. There manche Indians were watching their every

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movement. Whenever the moon shone would turn up for our deliverance. And sure they enjoyed themselves. Americans were bright, thetrain oftwo hundred wagonswas enough, after being three days and nights not too common in those parts, and for the traveling until the moon waned. In the still­ without food we discovered fresh wagon first time in hislife Royknewthe satisfaction ness of the night they would ring the tracks coming into the Santa Fe road going of feeling different and slightly superior. changes on their old Missouri songs, and towards Missouri. Our salvation depended The natives translated his name and called when on the return voyage, homeward on making haste to overtake that train. The him and Sam "Los Frijoles," to Roy's bound, as they left Mexico behind them train was traveling at a rapid rate for the amusement. He learned a little Spanish they had a beautiful farewell song they purpose of out-traveling the Indians, and and began to live In the Mexican way-fei­ would sing. I only remember the beginning: was composed of all the rich Armijo mer­ surely with proper attention to his rest and it ran thus, 'Farewell, ye green fields and .chants of New Mexico. They had a large his pleasures. He went to cock fights. He meadows, adieu; ye rocks and ye moun­ bulk of money intheir wagons, ten ofwhich drank tequila He investigated the attrac­ tains, I hasten from you.' There were eight were loaded with fresh buffalo meat they tions ofthe Mexican women who fell in his

of us, all young Missouri boys, who formed had killed, for their party to live on. After way. He learned to love chile, especially I, a party to come back to 'God's country,' as pushing on with all possible speed, we saw chile con carne made with liver. Kentucky, I we used to call it, and we had a hard time by the light of the moon about ten o'clock he thought, was never likethis. ~ of it, with some eventful scenes. Our provi­ at night the sheets of the wagons far in the In Roy Bean's life, hOwever, good things sions for the road consisted of hard bread . distance and a shout went upfrom our little never seemed to last. Just when he was and dried beef, and we bought mules at party. On nearingthe camp ofthe Mexicans beginning to feel permanent somewhere, Santa Fe to ride home. On the Cimarron about forty armed men came out to inter­ there would be an explosion and out he Riverwewere overtaken by a fearful storin. view us and see who we were. We told would go. The eruption in Chihuahua was One whole.night, which seemed to be a them who we were and they invited us into the first of a long series of hasty exits and month long, we sat all in a row with wet their camp, and gave us an abundance of it must have been a very colorful affair for blankets frozen to us. There was not buffalo meat for the next fifteen days, until he wouldn't talk about it. All his friends in enough wood within fifty miles of the place we reached Independence, all in good later years knew vaguely that he had got to make a tooth-pick of; the buffalo chips health and spirits. The news of our eventful into trouble in Mexico in his youth but that were saturated with water, and we were in trip had traveled fasterthan we did, and the was as far as their knowledge went. The a fearful condition; but that long night with reporters were all ready to hearthe story of only man he confided in was apparently a its horrors had an ending, and the boys our sufferings and hardships on the great young California immigrant, Horace Bell, shouted 'Glory to God' asthe sun come out desert. Whilst the memory of these were who became hisfriendwhilethey both were in great splendor in the morning. We had yet fresh in mind I made a promise that I living in the neighborhood of Los Angeles. passed a fearful ordeal, and suffered in­ would never go across that fearful desert Fortunately Horace Bell (who afterward ac­ tensely the whole night. The sun warmed again, or beyondthe confines of civilization; quired the title of Major) remembered most us up, dried our clothes and blankets, and but it only took a few monthsfor thatfeeling of what he heard when he began to write we began to feel like we would once more to wear off, and when spring opened, war books many years later. tread Missouri soil and see ourfriends. We with Mexico broke out, and I enlisted as a were all young and without experience, twelve-months' volunteer soldier, to trav­ It seems that trouble and whiskey as having never been from home before and erse not only the same but other deserts, usual went together. One day a big Mexi­ never beyondthe sight ofhousesor beyond and endure more hardships in a much can badman got lit up and took it into his the pale of civilization. After getting in good longer voyage. I thought all the spirit of head to clean out the gringos. He began on shape again we resumed ourtravels, think­ romance and adventure had been knocked Roy and dropped dead with a bullet be­ ing about home and longing to see the out of me by my war experience, and that I tween his eyes after an exchange ofshots. smoke as it 'so gracefully curled' from the would forevermore be content to remain In the eyes of the Americans it was a fair happy cabins in Missouri. within the lines ofpeace and civilization; but fight; in the eyes of the Mexicans it was as soon as I received my discharge from murder. •Another disaster was in store for us, the army my brain was bUsy laying plans Bare feet pattered through the town. The however, and it was unexpected. We had again for another trip across the plains. I .news spread and little knots of muttering not noticed that our provisions were nearty come out with my brother, went on a trading people began to clot into a mob. Somebody exhausted, and we were yet five hundred expedition to Chihuahua, and this was my made a speech and worked himself up into miles from the white settlements, which third trip across the great American desert, a demand for blood. They closed in on the meant 'Home, sweet home,' with all its now covered by the rich State of Colorado. Bean fienda just after a couple of wagons M endearments-among kindred and friends. MSAMUEL G. BEAN. slipped out of Chihuahua carrying all the Wetraveled on forabout one hundred miles American traders in town with their most further, when,likeaclapofthunder, thefact Sam's last sentence explains how valuable and portable goods. The Bean stared us in the face that our provisions brother Roycameto leave homefor good­ wagon was well out in the lead. were gone. We found ourselves now in a he went west as junior partner in the unin­ They stopped a good distance fNiay at predicament; still four hundred miles from corporated firm of Bean and Bean, Santa the mining town of Jesus Maria in northern home, we were crossing what are now the Fetraders. They gotto Independence inthe Sonora, but news of their coming got there spring of 1848, picked up mules and great states of Colorado and Kansas, then ahead of them and a reception committee ., without a solitary house or inhabitant in all wagon, and spent what money they had (it was already being organized. that area of wild country, claimed by the probably wasn't much) on a stock ofgoods . "A conflict ensued,·saysMajorBell,· with I Indians as their exclusive domain. To all for trading. Then they joined a wagon train, ! appearances it seemed that we were snailed across the plains to Santa Fe, de~ the final result that the Americans in Jesus doomed, and that death by starvation cided there was more money farther on, Maria were driven out. Their stores were sacked and they barely escaped with their would be our ultimate fate; and that, as we and finally pitched camp at Chihuahua, lives. They finally found refuge in California shuffled off this mortal coil one at a time, Mexico. Chihuahua was hungry for Ameri­ after a terrible journey. the survivors would not have strength can goods and kind to strangers. In a short enough to bury the dead, and our bones time the brothers had a small trading post Sam didn't go along. He was interested would be left to bleach on the desert plains. going where they sold everything they in a Chihuahua girl named Petra Kirker With all this dire distress hanging over us, could get hold of for which there was a whose father had been selling Apache we still had a lingering hopethat something demand-including whiskey. Meanwhile scalps, to the Mexican government until the

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government began to suspect that the simi­ tours: (1) east to the plainsand (2) west larity between Mexican and Indian hair was to the mountains. Everyone traveling making Mr. Kirker too much money. Petra to Las Vegas or interested in the Santa was sixteen years old when Sam married Fe Trail should obtain this booklet her in Juarez in March, 1849. There might (avaUable locally or from Michael Ol­ be a story there if anybody were left to tell sen, 1729 Eighth St, Las VegasNM it. 87701). As for Roy, he always said that he came • • • • • out to California with the gold rush. As far Evelyn and Ted Wilke~on, Miss Kittle as dates go, he was a forty-niner all right; Hays: GrandLadyoftheFrontier. Hills­ but when he joined the rush, he was un­ boro, KS: Hearth Publishing, 1994. Pp. doubtedly impelled by a metal much baser ! viii + 64. Dlustrations. Bibliography. than gold. Paper, $9.95 + $2.00 shipping. Order from Hearth Publishing. PO Box L, Hillsboro KS 67063. Kittle Hays was the adopted daugh­ ter of Seth Hays, founder of Council Grove, KS. Beyond that little was known, and many people kept raising CONVERSE OF THE the question, "What ever happened to Kittle Hays?" Ted and Evelyn Wilker­ PRAIRIES. son of Council Grove, local historians -BOOK NOTICESs-- with determination and talent, set out to answer that question, and answer it Dolores A. Kilgo, Likeness and Land­ they did. The result is a solid biogra­ scape: Tlwmas M. Easterly and the Art phy which fills a void in the history of of the Daguerreotype. St. Louis: Mis­ the Hays family, the community of to help repair the damage. I hope a souri Historicill Society Press, 1994. Council Grove, the state of Kansas, number of other people will do the and the Santa Fe TraU. Dlustrations. $29.95 (distributed by , same. (Editor's note: see itein- in Hoof the University of New Mexico Press, The details of the fascinating life of Prints onp. 9) Albuquerque NM 87131-1591). Kittie were pieced together from many On a recent trip to Lexington, I was This wonderful book includes many sources, including two of Kittie's happy to find the repairs have been beautiful reproductions of daguerreo­ granddaughters. Orphaned soon after completed. The enclosed picture types taken by Easterly, a St. Louis birth In 1861, Kittie Robbins was (above) shows the right hand and staff photographer. There are several Santa raised and adopted by Seth Hays, re­ to be a lighter color, butMother Nature Fe TraU travelers, including Sterling ceived part of her formal education at will soon "age" that. Price, James Kirker, Meriwether Lewis Westport and Independence, MO, and John A. Mann Clark, and Thomas Forsyih, Jr. The lived for a time with her brother in Las 3612 Cottonwood Cir real treasure, however, is a spectacu­ Vegas, NM. There she married A. J. Manhattan KS 66502 lar image ofSanta Fe trader James M. Houghton. They and their children Editor: White (wearing Mexican-style dress). later lived near Cottonwood Falls, KS. We do appreciate all the work that The daguerreotype ofWhite was taken Kittie died in CalIfornia in 1941 at the you doand theWagon Tracksquarterly in 1849, sometime before his ill-fated age of 80. is wonderful. We have all copies bound trip to New Mexico that same year (see The Wilkersons undertook this pro­ and carry them with us on our treks. Harry Myers, "Massacre on the Santa ject, their first book, with some trepi­ Thanks so much. Fe Trail: Mr. Whites Company of Un­ dation. The outcome Is commendable Walter and Teresa Pickett fortunates," Feb. 1992 WI'). and should boost their confidence. 195441st -Mark L. Gardner Now they are hooked on research and Los Alamos NM 87544 •• • • • writing and engrossed in a biography of Seth Hays, one which all Trail buffs Editor: Michael L. Olsen, Las Vegas and the will await with anticipation. After longsearch for records relating Santa Fe TraQ. Las Vegas: Ephemeral to Eliza St. Clair Sloan Mahoney, my Press, 1993. Pp. Ii + 26. $3.00 post­ great-great-great-grandmother, I re­ paid. POST OFFICE OAK cently located a copy of the marriage Professor Olsen, New Mexico High­ -LETTERS~- record' of Eliza and Jeremiah Ma­ lands University, Las Vegas, NM, is a honey. The Pueblo, CO, Library Dis­ leading scholar on the Trail and New Editor: trict recently purchased the CD-ROM \ Mexico. His informative pamphlet, de­ I was present when the Madonna of marriage records published by Auto­ .. signed to aid modern visitors to this the TraU statue was dedicated in Lex­ mated Archives and distributed by I r~ \ important town founded on the Trail in ington, MO, in 1928, when I was five Everton Publishing Company, for pre­ 1835, includes a brief history of the years old. What I remember most 1850 marriages In several states. One town ofLas Vegas, selected quotations about that occasion is my impatience ofthe CD'scontained a reference to the from Trail travelers, self-guided tours with all the speeches and a desire to above marriage. I wrote to the Recorder of the historic community, and notes see them pull the sheet from the statue of Deeds, City of St. Louis, and re­ on New Mexican foods. so I could see it. It was and is an quested a copy ofthe document which The self-guided tours include two Impressive monument. reads as follows: walking tours: (1) the Las Vegas plaza Jane Mallinson's report ofthisstatue "State of Missouri, County of St. and (2) following the Trail on Pacific being vandalized (August 1994 WI') loUis. I, John W. Colvin, a Justice of and Bridge streets; and two driving made me mad enough to send a check the Peace within & for the County

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aforesaid, do hereby certify that on the marker on the Tascosa road. A local In covered wagons. Karla French com· 14th day ofSeptember 1848, I did join landowner, Wayne Snider. pointed out pUed a manuscript ofprimary sources In the bonds of Matrimony. Jeremiah the ruts of the Gregg-Marcy Fort. about Lower Spring for the travel writ­ Mahoney and Eliza St. Clair. John W. Smith to Santa Fe Trail. It Is unclear ers. and she shared this with the mem­ Colvin, Justice of the Peace. FUed De­ why our national president said In the bers at the meeting. cember 22d, 1848." August Wagon Tracks that the Santa The next chapter meeting will be In When I found the Information on the Fe TraU doesn't live on here In Texas. Ulysses on January 12, 1995. CD. I did a little dance around the There are sites all across the Panhan­ Heart of the Flint Hills room. Finally, after almost 25 years of die. Recently another landowner told searching, I have found at least one about the creekcrossingand deep ruts President Donald B. Cress marriage for Eliza. downstream from the marker. RR I Box 66 Council Grove, KS 66846 Noreen Stringfellow RIffe Our first anniversary reunion (316) 767-5826 2119 Sherwood Lane roundup took place on September 18 Pueblo CO 81005 at the Creekwood Ranch south of Two fund raising events for the Big Amarillo. The sixteen members and John Farm Limestone Barn. built by Congratulations on your success and Seth Hays In 1871, have been spon­ thanksfor sharing the additionaI i'!for­ several guests attending were given a wagon ride through a buffalo herd. sored bythis chapter. The funds raised mation (Mrs. Rfffe's story qf her search will be used for a new roof. for Eliza appeared in the May 1993 WT. Scott Burgan. ranch owner, Randy With this new search tool, can you now Whipple. and AlvIn Lynn speculated On September 25. a day-long pro­ locate the mLJJTiage records ofEliza and that one of the trails may have gone gram celebrated Old Stone Barn Day. William Sloan and qf William Sloan's through the ranch. Events Included a church service, second marriage? Keep up the search Speaker AlvIn Lynn must be one of demonstrations of Trail activities. and and let us know what youflnd. the most knowledgeable men regard­ interpretations by CouncU Grove and Editor Ing the trails of this region. He has area residents. The chapter annual meeting followed the program. . done extensive research and travel CAMP TALES throughout the Canadian River area. A horse and tack auction at the 4-H His talk touched the surface of the Fair Grounds was held on October 1. --CHAPTER REPORTS­ history of the trails. He and his wife The commissions earned will. likewise. were delightful guests. go toward the barn fund. One Item Cimarron Cutoff On Novem ber 6 the chapter met at Included was a wall quilt, 26x28, fea­ President Helen C. Brown turing four breeds of horses, made by POBox 1400 the Amarillo Central Library Board Room for a program on Marlon Sloan member Helen Ericson of Emporia, Elkhart, KS 67950 KS. (316) 697-4597 Russell. End of the Trail Kay Kuhlman of Lawrence, KS, On January 15, 1995. the chapter dramatist and historical reenactor, .will again meet at the library from 2:30 President Margaret Sears portraying Marlon Sloan Russell. led to 4:30 p.m. Fred Rathjen has agreed 1871 Candela to give a program on other mid-19th Santa Fe, NM 87505 her audience along the Santa Fe TraU (505) 473-3124 In the 1850s at the quarterly meeting century explorers who traveled the Ca­ on October 28. at the Elkhart, KS. city nadian Route ofthe Santa Fe Trail. For On July 10 Mike Olsen led a walking hall. more Information about this meeting tour of Las Vegas. NM. On October I or joining the chapter contact Treas­ the membership met at the railroad FollOWing the excellent program, urer Ruth Mary Maples. 5211 Moun­ station In Lamy. NM. for a potluck President Helen Brown conducted the tain Dr, Amarillo, TX (806) 383-2028. picnic. The speaker was Jack Kono­ business meeting and read a new set pak. a retired teacher from Pojoaque, of bylaws she had compUed for the Wagonbed Spring NM. whose topic was MIndian Detour chapter. These replaced the ones pre­ President Edward Dowell Couriers: A Trip to the Past." Mr. Kono­ sented to SFTA on June 2, 1988, when 521 W Janice pak and his wife formerly operated the the chapter was the first one to be Ulysses, KS 67880 Indian arts shop at Santa Fe's La organized. The new bylaws were ap­ (3 I 6) 356-4525 Fonda Hotel. The Couriers were a tour­ proved by the members. Chapter dues On October 20. at Hugoton, KS. Ing subsldlary ofthe Fred Harvey Sys­ were set at $5.00 per person, plus the President Edward Dowell showed his tem. SFTA dues payable the first oftheyear. video of the flash floods at Wagonbed Followingthe program chaptermem­ Springsite. Heavy rains on June 2 and Plans for the 1997 sym poslum along bers returned to Santa Fe to welcome October 3 cut large gullies and caused the Cimarron Route were discussed. the group ofservicemen from the Navy much damage. The wagonbed display Mike Pltel has consented to be public­ submarine USS Santa Fe. who arrived floated out about ten feet from Its spot. Ity director for that event. The next that afternoon. Chapter member Dowell searched the washed-out area quarterly meetingwill be In JanuaryIn Elaine Pinkerton. author ofThe Santa for artifacts. Boise City, OK. Fe Trail by Bicyde and Santa Fe on Texas Panhandle Mter the first flood he found a rem­ Foot: Adventures in the City Dffferent nant ofcampfire charcoal on the upper President Kathy Revell led the welcoming committee and 3505 Cinderella bank of the Cimarron River. Mter the hosted a dinner honoring the cyclists Amarillo, TX 79121-1607 second he found a fcw bullets and that evening. metal pieces. (806) 358-7320 The October 22 meeting was held.at Five members of the chapter at­ The need to buUd a berm to prevent the LaFarge Library In Santa Fe. The tended the Cimarron Cutoffmeetlngln such erosion was again discussed. program consisted of a portrayal of Boise City. OK. on August 27 to help Ed lewis reported on the tour of Susan Shelby Magoffin by VanAnn plan the 1997 symposium. On Sep- journalists brought to the site by the Moore. Dan Murphy was the speaker , tember 9. twelve members met at the Kansas Dept. of Tourism on Septem­ for the Novem ber 19meeting. also held newly replaced Texas Historical ber28, when thegroup came to thesite at the LaFarge Library.

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Alcalde Sears, aided by Mike Pitel, saddle, program director for the chap­ ofthe trail. We as a board have decided has been at work identifying the ten ter, delivered the dedicatory address. for now to try not to sell the lots that most significant Trail ruts within the Following the dedication, a tour of the are in the direct trail. We can not do Santa Fe citylimits in an effort to mark nine locations was conducted. Mildon anything about the lots already sold if these ruts. Congratulations to news­ Yeager was recognized for his many there are any. letter editor Daniel O'Connor on his hours of hard work in bringing the MIf you have any more questions recovery from open heart surgery. project to fruition. please give us a call at (316) 659-2775. Corazon de los Caminos On August 8 the eighteenth marker MYours truly, Emily White, Sec." President LeRoy LeDoux was placed on the Fort Hays-Fort A special thanks goes to thecemetery PO Box 94 Dodge Road. It identifies ruts on the board for their interest in preserving Wagon Mound, NM 87752 Paul Miller fann southwest of Han­ the ruts. Also, Mr. Heit is the newest (505) 666-2262 ston, KS. Also, on thisdate, the marker member of the chapter. at Buckner Creek Crossing was re­ . In August the chapter members and The winter meetingwill be at Offerle, , placed, the original stone being se­ , guests met at the Ocamora Founda­ verely damaged by the weather since KS, on January 15, 1995. The speaker tion nearOcate, NM, for a picnic lunch will be Joel Walker on MThe Pawnee its installation. This was one of the and a presentation on the Hall's Peak Indians." Officers will be elected and Presbyterian Mission. Despite a tre­ stone posts newly cut from a quarry near Munjor, KS, which have been or the Faye Anderson Award will be pre­ mendous downpour, which left several sented. 4-wheelers stranded in the mud, great will be replaced. Supplying the man­ fun was had by all. power were Larry Mix, Bob Rein, Mil­ Dodge City/Fort Dodge don Yeager, and David Clapsaddle. President Janet Bevers The September meetingbegan at the 513 Andrew Street historic Eklund Hotel dining room in At the September 11 meeting at Pawnee Rock announcements were Dodge City, KS 67801 Clayton, NM, and proceeded to Mc­ (316) 227-8420 Nees Crossing. There 45 members and made regarding: Barton County Col­ lege travel seminars to Beecher's is­ Since the dedication ofthe new signs friends enjoyed a program and tour of at Fort Dodge on May 13, 1994, as this famous Trail site. land on September 17-18 and to the Washita Battle Site on October 22-23; reported in the last WT, many groups October was the chapter's last meet­ have taken the walking tourofthe fort, ing for the year at Santa Clara Parish the appointment of a committee to complete the lime kiln project, consist­ now known as the Kansas Soldier's Hall at Wagon Mound. Members and ing of Louis Van Meter, Joel Walker, Home. Brochures describinga walking guests heard Sr. Erminio Martinez of tour ofthe fort and a drlving tourofthe New Mexico Highlands University and Mildon Yeager; the third annual chapter-sponsored tour of the Fort Trail in Ford County are available at speak on MHispanic Genealogy.MIn ad­ the Fort Dodge Museum and from the dition Anne Swenson gave a report on Hays-Fort Dodge Road on October 8, and distribution of the Self-Guided chapter. The chapterwould be pleased the 175th anniversary coordinating to assist other SFTA chapters or activities and asked for additional Auto Tour of Fort Hays-Fort Dodge Road. groups in arranging a visit to the vari­ ideas. ous Trail sites in Ford county. Think Chaptermembers approved $325.00 of us in 1995, sym posium year. Wet/Dry Routes to pay printingcosts ofthe Self-Guided President Lon R. Palmer Auto Tour of Sites Associated with On October 15 our chapter spon­ 358 West 8 Henry Booth.. Bart and Travis Wen­ sored the installation of a limestone Hoisington, KS 67544 stron were presented Certificates of post with inlaid bronze plaque desig­ (316) 653-2827 Appreciation for recently completed nating the site of Fort Atkinson. The Members of the chapter and local Eagle Service Award projects. Both Wet/Dry Routes Chapter created and Larned citizens met July 4 to dedicate Scouts are from Troop 239, Kinsley, installed the marker on behalf of our nine markers placed at locations in the KS. Following the business meeting chapter. The marker was dedicated at Larned area associated with Henry Ray Schulz of Great Bend, KS,deliv­ the October 28 meeting. Mr. Keith Booth, the principal founder ofPawnee ered a lively presentation on events at Chadd, a historian and retired educa­ Countyand the CityofLarned. Booth's the Walnut Creek Crossing 1855­ tor, discussed his research of Forts connections with the Santa Fe Trail. 1859. Atkinson and Mann. His extensive re­ predated his 1869appointment as the search of these two Forts guided A few months ago the chapter re­ Fort Larned post trader. In 1864, he Chadd in creating paintings of the ceived an inquiry from former Kinsley served as captain ofCompany L, 11 th forts as they may have appeared in the Kansas Cavalry, and Inspector Gen­ citizen Jon Heit concerning preserva­ 1850s. Chapter members enjoyed eral ofthe District ofthe Upper Arkan­ tion of the ruts in the Hillside Ceme­ viewing his paintings. tery, rural Kinsley. Subsequently sas. In fulfilling duties related to that Missouri River Outfitters office he visited Forts Zarah and David Clapsaddle met with members of the cemetery board to discuss the President Robert Dorian Larned. Following the Sand Creek preservation of the ruts. Following is a 13211 E 45th Terr Massacre, he made an inspection tour Independence, MO 64055 of that site located some forty miles copy of the board's response to Clap­ saddle: (816) 252-7826 north of Fort Lyon. The Missouri River Outfitters met The dedication services were con­ MThe North Edwards County Ceme­ October 20 for dinner and a meeting. ducted in the Sts. Mary and MaJ1ha of tery District Board would like to ex­ President Dorian presented a fascinat­ Bethany Episcopal Church, a congre­ tend their THANKS and appreciation ing (albeit gruesome) program on gation organized in 1884with Booth as to you for taking the time to visit with medicine and medical practices dUring SeniorWarden. ChapterV-P Louis Van the Board about the part of the Santa the 18th and 19th centuries. Bob's Meter served as emcee, with Father .Fe. Trail that goes through the Hillside extensive collection of medical para­ Richard Hicks leadingin a briefservice Cemetery. phernalia and knowledge of past pro­ to commemorate the contributions MThe Cemetery Board has not come cedures made for a spellbinding pres­ made by Captain Booth. David Clap- to a decision yet as to the preservation entation.

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The chapter will gather December 11 Canton to the Jones cemetery where report?] at 2 p. m. for a holiday meeting at the Ed Miller is buried. Millerwas killed by home of Roger and Sandy Slusher in a war-party of Cheyennes in July Bent's Fort Lexington. For more information con­ 1869. The cemetery is on a hill to the President Earl Casteel tact president Dorian or the Slushers. north of the Trail between Durham 5666 S 106 Rd Crossing and Fuller's Ranche. Alamosa, CO 81101 Quivira (719) 589-2061 The entourage then viewed an area President Wayne Smith The enthusiasm continues in the on Running Turkey Creek on Fuller's RR 1 Box 44 Ranche that was a townsite when early stages of the organization of the Raymond, KS 67573 Bent's Fort Chapter which now has McPherson County was settled but (316) 534-2821 over 60 members. Since our last report has since become a ghost town with we have had two meetings and a tour. On June 5 fifteen members toured only a marker. A cemetery Is a short All were well attended. the Custer camp site, a Butterfield distance from the site. This has been Overland Despatch stage station, and neglected by writers of the history of Our meeting at BoWville on Sep­ the site of the first military post in the the Trail. The area was settled in the tember 24, 1994, was attended by 42 Hays area on Big Creek. 18608 and any evidence of many sites members and guests. Itwas fitting that A potluck dinner at Buffalo Bill'sWell has disappeared. the meeting was held in the newly renovated Prowers House, the first at Cow Creek Crossing west of Lyons, The January 16, 1995, annual meet­ meetingin that restored historic build­ KS, on July 17 drew 23 chapter mem­ ingwill be held at Waxy's Cafe in Ellin­ ing. At the meeting the business of bers. President Wayne Smith re­ wood, KS, and will include a program chapter organization continued, with counted various tales concerning the byRobert Yarmer on military uniforms several commlttees giving reports and history of the site and the various ac­ and equipment in use during the years other committees established. After tivities which occurred there. Secre­ the Santa Fe Trail was active. Yarmer the meeting members stayed to chat tary Carol Near and others also cited will illustrate his talk with specimens with one another and enjoy the food various documentation of the events. from his military collection. and fun at the "Back to Bowville July 1994was the I 30thanniversary Cottonwood Crossing Days" event, held the same day. of two Indian battles near Cow Creek. President Dudley Donahue One started on July 18. 1864, and The next gathering was on October RR 1 Box 9 15 for a meeting and tour at the Otero lasted at least six days. Indians at­ Durham, KS 67438 Museum In La Junta, CO. Jesse Scott tacked a military supply train west of The chapter had a booth about the the crossing. Few if any casualties re­ of Garden City, KS, presented a slide Trail and SFTA at the annual Kansas program on stage stations along High­ sulted. The second battle. also Involv­ Sampler Festival near Inman, KS, on Ing a military supply train, occurred way 350 between La Junta and October 1-2, 1994. Over 6,500 people Thatcher. The program and tour also later in July early in the morning after attended the festival. Many of them leaving overnight camp east of the included Jamie Kingsbury of the Co­ were interested in knowing more about manche National Grassland, on the crossing. The train departed before the the Trail. its militaryescort left camp, and within subject ofthe Sierra Vista and Tim pas minutes the troops heard the Indians [Editor's Note: a report of Cotton­ areas, and Bob Jones on the site of attack the train. When the escort wood Crossing Chapter activities ap­ Hole-in-the-Rock. We are grateful for reached the wagon train, there were parentlywas mismed duringthe hectic the kind assistance ofDon Lowman of only two survivors, and one of them scramble to get this issue to the printer La Junta for allowing us to meet at the died later. The other, seventeen-year­ and has not surfaced again. Myapolo­ museum. Mter the program the group old Robert McGee, survived in spite of gies to the chapter. Will the reporter traveled to Sierra Vista, Timpas, Iron serious body wounds and the fact he please send another copy with the next Spring, and Hole-in-the-Rock. Vlce- had been scalped. McGee lived to a ripe old age. Following the programs and busi­ ness meeting, the group journeyed to Ralph's Ruts, where Ralph Hathaway related the history ofthe ruts and told of the Plum Buttes Massacre. The site of Plum Buttes, located approximately one-and-a-half miles west of the Hathaway farm, was also visited. On October 9 the chapter met at Duane Embers's farm southeast of McPherson for a noon meal and a short business meeting with 44 present. M­ terward Duane transported the group with a tractor and trailer to the Trail ruts on Dry Turkey Creek. These ruts are between Fuller's Ranche and Elyria. They have not been designated on anyoftheTrail maps yet but should be. Duane and John Conoboy of the National Park Service found some ar­ tifacts in a survey of the site last spring. Restored Prowera House at Boggsvllle, CO, where the Bent's Fort Chapter met on From there the group traveled east of September 24,1994. (photo courtesy of Jesse Scott.)

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ifit does not melt away. We hear that many hunters have suffered terribly in conse­ quence many haVing their feet so badly frozen that they may lose them, while there are others out who have not been heard from, and fears are entertained for their safety. December 26, 1863: Two companies of Missouri troops, who escorted the officers of Arizonia through here some time ago, passed through town on their return last Wednesday. Two com panies ofthe Colorado Second passed through town last Friday on their way to Kansas City. They came from Fort Lyon through the whole ofthe recent great snowstorm. February 20, 1864: , , .• >. Hon. W. F. N. Arny, Secretary of the , Territory of New MeXico, passed through town last Friday, way-billed to Topeka April 30, 1864: I Hon. W. F. N. Arny, Secretary of New Leaders of the Bent's Fort Chapter In front of the restored Prowers House, Septem­ Mexico, passed through town last Satur­ ber 24, 1994, I to r: Secretary Teresa Kesterson, V-P Dale Kesterson, President Earl day, on his way to Santa Fe. Casteel, Treasurer Sue Petersen, and Phil Petersen, chairman of the Boggsville Restoration Committee. (Photo courtesy of Jesse Scott.) COUNCIL TROVE -DOCUMENTS President Dale Kesterson was the co­ past week, while on his way to Santa Fe. ordinator of the day's actMUes and He was accompanied by the Executive of­ TRADE WITH NEW MEXICO, 1860 . was "trail boss" for the event. ficers ofthe Territory ofArizonia, altogether Mark L. Gardner located the follow­ The next scheduled events are an forming a pleasant party for a tramp across ing article in the Sacramento Daily Un­ executive committee meeting to be the Great Plains. The company comprised ion, October 30, 1860, reprinted from held onJanuary 7, 1995, at 11:00a.m. the Governor, J. M. Goodwin, of Maine; the St. Louis Republican. Gardner at the Quality Inn in La Junta, and the Secretary, R. C. McCormick, of New York; notes that the article's introductory annual membership meeting to be Surveyor General, Gen. Bashford, of Wis­ history of the Santa Fe trade contains held at Bent's Fort Inn in Las Animas consin; Judges, Allen of Connecticut, and many errors and should not be relied on January 28, 1995, at 10:00 a.m. Howells of Michigan, District Attorney, A. upon, but the description of the trade Gage. The train accompanying the expedi­ in 1860 is excellent. The item is re­ SUPPLEMENT TO WIWAM tion had "on board" three thousand stand of printed here as it appeared in 1860. arms, and was escorted by two companies HEAGERTY DIARY THE GREAT OVERlAND TRADE WITH of cavalry, under the command of Major CHARLES R. Olmstead, Junction Phillips. With the escort were Rev. H. W. NEW MEXICO City, KS, located the following infor­ Read, Chaplain, T. P. Seeley, Post Sur­ From immemorial times, the vast plains mation in the Smoky Hill and Republi­ geon, and Mr. Hand, Public Printer. All of Eastern Asia have been annually trav­ can Union of Junction City, KS, relat­ these gentlemen were well pleased with ersed by numerous caravans, composed of ing to the 1863 military escort de­ this route, and were strongly ofopinion that thousands of "ships of the desert," loaded scribed in William Heagerty's diary the mails for New Mexico and Arizonia with men and the productions of human (August 1994 WTl. Each item is re­ ought to connect with the one running skill, enterprise and industry, for the supply printed as it appeared in the newspa­ through this Valley. They ridiculed the idea of the wants of nations, whose intercourse per. of bUilding a railroad acrossthe divide while with the commercial and industrial centers October 3, 1863: a complete and perfect natural channel, like of the civilized world was rendered difficult and precarious by the.intervening desola­ For New Mexico-Company A of the the Smoky Hill Valley, could be used. tion and sandy regions hundreds of miles Eleventh Kansas, past through town last December 5, 1863: in width. Wednesday, having in escort a train, laden with Government Stores. Heavy Snow.-From Salina to Fort A similar spectacle has been enacted October 10, 1863: Lamed the whole country is covered with from year to year on the immense area of snow to the depth of fifteen inches. The level highlands that extend in constantly We stated last week that Company A of coach left Fort Larned last Sunday morn­ increasing altitudes between the Missouri the Eleventh Regiment passed through ing, and the Santa Fe mail had not arrived river and the base of the Rocky Mountains town escorting a train to New Mexico. They then. The snow is worse beyond Lamed, ever since the Anglo-American element were Missouri troops. We thought they and as the team driving out of Lamed runs gained a foothold in the valley of the Rio looked rather rough for the Eleventh Kan­ one hundred and fifty miles without chang­ Grande del Norte. Every Spring, as soon sas. ing, it may be presumed that the passen­ as the stagnation of the Winter is fairly October 10, 1863: gers are in a rather undesirable fix. The superseded by the animating influences of For New Mexico and Arizonia.-Hon. W. coach coming in past through snow seven the warm season, "mighty fleets of prairie F. N. Arny, Secretary of New Mexico, and eight feet deep, and all the ravines are schooners,' or, to use less figurative lan­ stopped in our city a few days during the drifted to a level. The buffalo will all die off guage, numerous freight trains, propelled

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by all kinds of quadrupeds, issue from the destined to crown their undertaking-the ons, and thousands of horses, mules and various ports or border towns in which they first step toward the opening of a new and oxen. Yet, in spite ofthis union offorces, a harbored during the Winter months, and profitable market for the surplus prodUC­ trip was hardly ever made without some steer across the "grassy ocean" in their tions ofthe Union. Their wares were trans­ hostile engagement with the Indians, and slow, steady way. The various overland ported both on wagons and pack animals. the consequent loss of one or more of the routes then become fairly covered with Successwas destined to crown their under­ party by the tomahawk and scalping knife. seemingly endless caravans of men, vehi­ taking-the first step toward the opening of Nor were Indian depredations the only cles and animals. Articles oftrade of every a new and profitable market for the surplus source of risk. The innate lawlessness of description, representing millions of dollars productions of the Union. Their progress the mixed races inhabiting the Mexican in value and weighing tens ofthousands of could be but slow from their want of ac­ territory was often demonstrated to the An­ tons, are then being transported to all the quaintance with the topography of the tra­ glo-American traders in a most fatal man­ settled portions of the Far West-to no versed country, and the utter absence of ner. Bands of native highwaymen fre­ other regions, however, more extensively regular roads. But they arrived safely, after quently waylaid the small trains, into which than to the Anglo-American possessions many adventures, in the valley of the Rio the great caravan dissolved after reaching acquired by Mexico. Grande, and having secured the good will the Rio Grande. They would rob and mur­ Few of the readers of the Republican ofthe Mexican officials by the unavoidable der just as relentlessly as the aborigines, probably have a correct idea of the grand gratuities of money and goods, soon suc­ and that with all but equal impunity. proportions the overland traffic with New ceeded in disposing of their goods at a handsome profit. The extremefertility ofthe Then, as now, old and New Mexico was Mexico has already attained, although their every once in awhile convulsed with inter­ own city of St. Louis has been for many Rio Grande valley; the large number of towns, pueblos, haciendas and estencias, nal strife. Military emeutes [uprisings], pro­ years enjoying the lion's share of it. Few nunciamientos and revolutions succeeded know the vastness of the capital employed they found to extend on both banks of the river for hundreds of miles; the evident each other rapidly, and the constant dep­ in it, and the yearly increasing extent ofthe redatory incursions of the Comanches, prevalence ofprecious metals, satisfied the imports into and exports from the distant Navajos and other Indian tribes also placed Territory. For the information of those who trading adventurers before they returned that repeated expeditions would doubt­ the lives, goods and chattels of the Ameri­ are but little acquainted with that steadily can merchants in frequent peril. flowing source of prosperity, the subjoined lessly prove remunerative, and hence they sketch of the gradual development of the bade the senoras and senoritas but a tem­ An obstruction to their uniform and New Mexican trade, its character, the man­ porary farewell. steady success, formed the already men­ tioned boundless rapacity of the Mexican ner and means of carrying it on, etc., is The news oftheir successful trip caused officials. The only object from which they drawn: quite a sensation in the many trading set­ appeared to hold their public stations, was tlements along the Missouri river, and many HISTORY OF THE GRADUAL DEVB..OP­ to enrich themselves. From the Governor determined to follow their example. In the MENT OF THE NEW MEXICO TRADE down to the lowliest Alcalde, the "lust of Summer of 1824 a second expedition was Shortly after the admission of the State wealth" was the only impulse of their "offi­ fitted out at Old Franklin, the then embryo of Missouri into the Union, several frontier cial acts."The advent ofthe American trad­ ofthe Boonville ofto-day. It proved no less traders from the Vicinity ofthe present town ers was most propitious to their corrupt profitable than the first. In 1825the traders of Boonville, ventured upon a sort of pros­ schemes. The customs being arbitrarily ar­ managed to direct the attention ofthe Gov­ pecting expedition, into the then, to Anglo­ ranged by the Governors, they soon made ernment to the newly opened channel of Americans, absolutely unknown regions them a most effective means of filling their commerce, and secured the surveying of a watered by the upper Rio Grande. Among own private coffers as well as those of their wagon road from the Missouri State line to them were Nathaniel Sernes, Philip subordinates. The most exorbitant duties Santa Fe. The surveying party was under Thompson, one Monroe, the Soublettes, were levied in order to compel the foreign the charge ofMajor Sibley, now ofSt. Char­ John McKnight, Wilson McGunnegle, Pat­ traders to resort to bribery to avoid their les. rick M. Dillon, from St. Louis, and several payment. The ignorance ofthe officials was others. The Great Plains were at that time Thenceforth caravans were dispatched too greatto render the imposition ofspecific a perfect terra incognita. No Anglo-Ameri­ annually to the Upper Rio Grande. They duties possible. They were charged per can settlements were then either on the gradUally increased in extent. From 1825to wagon load, from five hundred to one thou­ route to or in the foreign dependency they 1847 the value ofthe exports to New Mex­ sand dollars being levied upon each one. proposed to make the field of their trading ico ranged only from $50,000 to $100,000 This enormous taxforced the importers into operations. Innumerable and mostly hostile per annum. Many drawbacks were encoun­ trickery. When within a short distance ofthe bands of the nomadic aborigines of North tered in the pursuit of the trade. abode of the Custom House harpies they American, were the undisputed lords ofthe The Indian tribes, whose hunting and would regularly pile the load oftwo wagons intervening country. No protection from fighting grounds they had to cross, were on one, and thus meet the ex officio pilfer­ their more than probable depredations always eager to swoop upon their trains, ers. upon their property and persons could be drive off their draft animals, plunder and In due course oftime the importations of expected but their own. Their contemplated bum their wagons, and in many instances individuals traders had grown so heavy as mercantile ventures involved, therefore, no appropriate their scalps. In those daysvery to render protracted sojourns inthe country mean risk. But being possessed ofthat bold few ofthetraders started out with morethan necessary. Stationary trading posts were spirit of indomitable energy, that has al­ two or three wagons, and considerations of gradually opened in Santa Fe, Los Vegas, ways characterized the western fore-run­ personal safety, therefore, brought about a Albuquerque, Taos and other towns. ners of Anglo-American civilization, the in­ general rendezvous ofthe numerous small Among the earliest ofthose that made per­ ception of the project insured also its ready trains at what was then and is now known manent locations were Dr. Connelly, Dr. execution. as "Council Grove," a well timbered and Ward, of Independence, J. B. Doyle, Col. In the Spring of 1823 the parties duly set well watered spot, about 112 milesfrom the McCarty, now of Kansas City, Messrs. out upon their hazardous journey. It being Missouri river. The press of the whole Un­ White, Giddings, Bent, Smith, Jackson, the an experimental trip, theirstockswere slen­ ion was in the habit of noticing the yearly Soublettes, and St. Vrains, nearly all of der, and comprising a cheap class ofgoods departures and returns of the Santa Fe whom hailed from Western Missouri, and only. Their wares were transported both on caravan from and to the "Grove." It com­ St. Louis and vicinity. Although the innate wagons and pack animals. Success was prised, at times, hundreds ofmen and wag- indolence of the Mexicans naturally ren-

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ders the mercantile vocation more congen­ increased the safety of both person and merly Keamey & Bernard) have sold a little ial to them than agricultural pursuits, which property, and speedily caused the multipli­ over one hundred and twenty thousand forms the principal means of subsistence cation of the capital and number of traders· dollars worth ofgoods to some sixty Ameri­ of the population of the valley of the Rio employed in the trade. In a few years, not cans and native New Mexico traders in Grande, but few became competitors ofthe only the imports but also the exports tripled Westport during the last year. Americans. Of these, the well-known Ar­ and quadrupled. Hundreds of wagons no Westport, from its greater Vicinity to the mego brothers were the most successful. longer sufficed for the transportation ofthe prairies, which commence directly west of In exchange fortheir merchandisethe trad­ merchandise sent out to meet the greatest the town limits, offers greater inducements ers obtained mostly both silver and gold demand, but thousands were soon re­ as a mere starting point than Kansas City. coin and bullion. By degrees the exporta­ quired. Millions became now invested in­ Most of the trains, indeed, camp within a tion of mules became an important feature stead of tens and hundreds of thousands. few miles of this place, while waiting for of the trade. Many stock dealers from the The whole of New Mexico became dotted loads, etc. But as a shipping and trading Western United States commenced mak­ with trading houses, many of which point, the preferences are decidedly in fa­ ing regular visits for that purpose, and an­ branched out into what is now known as vor of Kansas City. nually brought away hundreds ofthe hardy Arizona and the Mexican State of Chihua­ It has been already stated in the forego­ long ears that New Mexico produces. hua A faithful reflection ofthe present mag­ ing that considerable portion ofthe mercan­ .nitude of this overland traffic is attempted tile wants of New Mexico were supplied at The profits realized by the early New in the following paragraphs: Mexican traders were very great, so much Westport and Kansas City. The bulk ofthe so that, the drawbacks enumerated in the LOCATION OF THE TRADE annual purchases has, however, been foregoing to the contrary notwithstanding, The pioneers in the New Mexico trade made in this city by the traders, ever since nearly all made independent fortunes. The embarked, as already stated, originally the importation of American goods into mass ofthe New Mexican people, indeed, from Boonville or Old Franklin. Even those New Mexico was first begun. The heaviest proved as unsophisticated customers as residents of St. Louis, who joined in the first buyers, with the exception of three or four the aborigines. The vemal arrival of trains expeditions, came up the river with their who seek more easterly markets, are the from the East with fresh supplies of goods goods in so called Mackinaw boats, and regular patrons of our wholesale dealers­ always resulted in the inauguration of a stopped at the same point. The town of welcome ones, from the extent of their "high old time" amongtheAnglo-Americans Independence was, however, founded ready resources, and their promptness as well as the natives.The former, just soon after the opening ofthe overland traf­ when time-buyers. emerged from the privations and hardships fic and became the great mart and outfitting In Kansas City and Westport, the New incidental to the long and wearisome jour­ point for the great westem plains. It held Mexico trade is in the hands of a relatively ney across the plains, plunged heedlessly this commercial ascendancy from 1832 to small number of houses. They are, in the amidst the wild amusements the Mexican 1848, during which period it commanded all former place: J. S. Chick & Co., wholesale towns afforded, while the latter too willingly but a small fraction of the New Mexico grocers and dealers in provisions; J. & P. joined in their course of reckless dissipa­ trade. Its merchants accumulated vast for­ Shannon & Co., wholesale dealers in dry tion. Drunkenness, fandangos, fights, etc., tunes, and its commercial prosperity goods, etc.; William A. Chick & Co., com­ were then indulged in without stint or re­ brought about its development into one of mission, storage and forwarding mer­ morse. Thus things went along until the the most flourishing and beautiful towns in chants; McCarty & Barkley; commission, long expected crisis of a war between the the West. But "westward is the course of storage and forwarding merchants; C. E. Mexican Republic and the United States empire. "Independence held its ownas long Kearney (late of Bernard & Co., Westport), set in. The first hostile movements on the as it remained without rivals. As soon, how­ wholesale grocer and commission mer­ part of the New Mexicans towards the An­ ever, as such commenced springing up chant. The trade being divided up among glo-American residents among them oc­ west of it, the scepter of monopoly slipped so few houses, they all do a very large curred immediately after the news of the from its hold. The birth and growth ofWest­ business with New Mexico. declaration of war had reached them the port and Kansas City gradually brought In Westport, the New Mexico business is late Summer of .1846. The persecution about that event. As early as 1834, Messrs. transacted bythe already mentioned house soon became so intolerable as to drive Bent and St. Vrain landed a stock ofgoods, of Bemard & Co. The firms of Street & nearly all the Anglo-Americans out of the destined for the New Mexico market, and Baker, George D. Vogelsong, Thomas H. Country, and cause all but general suspen­ Francois Chouteau's log warehouse, near Rosser and Childs, Hayes & Co., are also sion of trading operations. the island, just east of Kansas City, and operating to some extent in the same line. from thattime the removal ofthetrade from The appearance of General Kearny and In this city [St. Louis], the number of his army in the Mexican possessions, and Independenceto itstwo immediatewestem neighbors took place in annually larger pro­ houses doing business with New Mexico is, his rapid march upon and ready capture of of course, much larger. One of the oldest Santa Fe, in September, fumished the nec­ portions. Since 1850, nearly all of it has passed over to its successors so to speak. (if not the oldest) is the well known firm of essary relief. But great was the disaster R. Campbell & Co. They, as well as Voor­ inflicted upon manytraders by the counter­ But few wagons are now being sent out from Independence to New Mexico. hies, Hellmers & Co., Wise, Singer & Co., part of the Sicilian vesper, the New Mexi­ McCrow, McCrery & Co., supply most of cans attempted in the following month of Of its two successful competitors, Kan­ the dry goods; Childs, Pratt & Co., the January. Quite a numberwere assaulted in sas City is at the present time enjoying the hardware; Glasgow & Bro., and Erfort & the most barbarous manner. The utter largest benefit from the transfer. Its acces­ Petring, liquors and groceries, Martin route, however, the insurrectionists experi­ sibility and direct communication with the Brothers, and Young Brothers, clothing; enced in the battle of Taos in February, Eastem market has made it the point at Wolff & Hoppe, notions, etc., etc. quickly restored quietude and comparative which not only a large portion ofthe goods security of commerce. After the conclusion yearlyforwarded to New Mexico issold, but CHARACTER OF THE TRADE ofthe treaty ofGuadaloupe and thetransfer also nearly all those bought in the East are The wants of a country are always regu­ of New Mexico to the United States, the disembarked, stored and reshipped on the lated by the means its people command to commercial relations between the two trains. Westport, however, has no mean satisfy them. The New Mexicans, although countries were at once strengthened and share of the trade. To show this, it will be inhabiting a region ofvast agricultural, pas­ widened. The military occupancy of the only necessary to mention that the great toral and mineral resources, cannot be said Territory by United States troops greatly house of J. & W. R. Bemard & Co. (for- to be a wealthy people. It is true there are

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men offortune among them, but their num­ and gold bUllion, and coin and mules. The MANNER OF CONDUCTING THE TRADE­ ber appears insignificant when compared latter branch has, however, all but dwindled OVERLAND TRANSPORTATION withthat ofthe peopleat large. The average away, in consequence of the extensive well being that one finds among all classes mule-breeding now followed in many por­ The New Mexico merchants usually inthe United States does not prevail in New tions of the Westem States. The exporta­ make their appearance in the Eastern mar­ Mexico, where the means of the corre­ tions of coin and bullion have also greatly kets in the early part ofthe Spring, so as to sponding elements barely suffice to eke out decreased during the last few years. The have their new supplies on the frontier at a most frugal subsistence. cause of the diminution is the continued the time of the opening of the "prairie navi­ gation." Our hotel keepers and wholesale paralysis, from various causes, of silver In the early days of the overland traffic dealers know exactly the time when they mining throughout the Territory. The sur­ when the wants of the natives had not yet may expect the yearly visit of the well­ been qualified by a frequent contact with plus of precious metal has been carried off by the steady draft for the purposes of dressed gentlemen, with bronzed counte­ Anglo-American civilization, the variety of nances and big bags of silver dollars and commerce, and the balance remaining in the imported goods was not very great. gold doubloons. They retum as regularly as Groceries, flash calicoes and leather were the Territory is hardly adequate to the wants ofthe inhabitants. Eastern payments the birds that migrate to more southerly constituted the main stock. The gaUdierthe climes during the cold season. colors of the calicoes the better favor they are now mostly made by the merchants in found. A buff-eolored kind was especially drafts obtained on the Sub-Treasury ofthe The old accounts being squared (New popular. As the intercourse between New United States from the military and civil Mexican traders hardly ever ask "exten­ Mexico and the East became livelier, and officers stationed in the Territory. sion1 and the new purchases made ­ the material condition of the people im­ generally comprising stocks intended to The falling off in the export of the afore­ last a whole year - they repair to either proved after the establishment of the An­ mentioned articles has been made up, to glo-American regime, the goods introduced Kansas City orWestport, to awaitthe arrival some extent, by an increase in that of oth­ and storage and reshipment oftheir goods. and adopted in that market became from ers. The exportation ofwool, above all, has year to year more varied, and at the present been carried on very largely for some In Kansas City, their bales, boxes and time very few articles that merchants in the years. In 1859, nearly nine hundred thou­ packages are usually stored in the exten­ Western States keep on hand will not be sand pounds arrived on the Missouri river sive warehouses of the already mentioned found in 'the assortments taken out by the from New Mexico, and this year over a firms of Wm. H. Chick & Co., and McCarty New Mexican traders. million is expected to be brought in. The & Barkley. Their rates charged are 6 1/4 There are, however, some peculiar excellent natural pasturage ofthat Territory cents per 100 pounds for storage; 95 cents wants the importers are called upon to sup­ is likely to make sheep-breeding one ofthe per 100 pounds for drayage, and 2 1/4 per ply. They consist of an uncommonly large principal pursuits, and steadily swell the cent. for advancing charges. Monthly set­ demand for calicoes and bleached domes­ yearly wool clip. tlements are required by them. tics; and hosiery, particularly for female Mexican wool is worth about fourteen The outskirts of the principal starting use. !he number ofwhite stockings bought cents per pound on the Missouri river. Its points,-Kansas City and Westport-now by the Mexican .women is said to be export largely benefits the transportation become the scenes ofthe active and exten­ astonishing. The diminutive character of houses that do freighting for New Mexican sivepreparations forthe loadinganddepar­ their pedal extremities. renders a preva­ traders, inasmuch as it secures return ture of the countless trains that are yearly lence of small sizes necessary. For the loads to them---an advantage not enjoyed employed in the transportation ofmerchan­ same reason dealers in shoes, that do busi­ by the overland freighters to any other part dise to New Mexico. Solid squares of wag­ nesS with New Mexico traders, have arti­ of the country. The freight is from four to ons, covering whole acres, are formed. cles expressly made to meet the require­ five cents per pound. Thousands of draft animals are scattered ments of the senoritas in this respect. , over a "thousand adjoining hills.· Black­ Goat and sheep skins also constitute an Fancy dry goods are wanted to a limited smiths, wagon makers and saddlers are additional article of export. Some thirty busy day and night. The streets resound extent only, people of wealth being the thousand, worth about twenty-five cents purchasers. What little is imported consists, with the barbarous vociferations and the each, were brought in last year. Also, some loud cracks of heavy whips, used by team­ however, ofarticles of a very costly charac­ dry hides, tallow, and a variety of furs. ter. sters in urging the cattle undertheir charge. The value ofthe merchandise taken into The rumbling noise made by the clumsy, Of late large quantities of ready made New Mexico last year, was estimated by lumbersome ·prairie schooners,· while pro­ clothing and fumishing goods have been competent judges at about one million and pelled along by patient oxen, is heard in­ sold, thereby indicatingthat the old national a half of dollars. That of the exports, such cessantly. Swarthy Mexicans, in dirty buck­ costume is giving way to the Anglo-Ameri­ as bullion, wool, skins, etc., is claimed to be skin and flannel, lounge in large numbers can style of garments. about one halfof a million. Butthis does not on the sidewalks and street counters. An­ The settlement of a large number of represent all the capital invested in import­ glo-American prairie men in scarcely better Americans has for some years been the ing and exporting different articles oftrade, habiliments, and likewise intended per­ causeof considerable annual shipment of as will be shown further below in the para­ formers of the humble part of ·bull-wack­ American flour to the Territory from the graph on overland transportation. ers,· crowd the Whisky shop8n short, a Missouri river. New Mexico, it is true pro­ It may be well presumed that after the spectacle, similar to that our Levee pres­ duces usually an amount for breadstuffs deliverance of New Mexico from the blast­ ents on the re-opening of river navigation is enacted. sufficient for the home demand. The pr!mi­ ing effect of the incessant Indian troubles tive mode ofworking upthewheat intoflour, upon the material pursuits of its inhabitants, Many ofthe traders havetheir own trains still adhered to by the natives, makes it, it will become a much more abundant com­ with which to transport their wares across however, of a quality that is hardly adapted mercial tributary to the East, than it is atthe the Plains. A number, however, prefer to to the wants of the Anglo-American stom­ present moment. The inevitable greater in­ have it done by the regular overlandfreight­ achs. The foreign flour is, of course, held fusion of Anglo-American element that will ing firms, located in and about Kansas City much higher than the domestic. then ensue, will also exercise a healthy and Westport. The trains of both mostly Allusion has previously been madeto the stimulus upon its agricultural and mining winter in New Mexico, where the Winter fact that in former years the exports from interest, and vastly extend the range of its pasturage is almost as good as that of the New Mexico consisted principally of silver commerce. Summer. They start for the Missouri line as

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soon as the new grass commences spring­ On coming up with the caravan itself, one mUles, 5,933; oxen, 17,836. ing up, and manage to arrive on or about will pass from twenty-five to seventy five The wagons were loaded with fifty-five the first of May, and remain encamped in high boxed, heavy wheeled wagons, cov­ hundred pounds of freight, on an average, localities convenient as to wood, water, and ered with double sheets of canvass, loaded thus making the aggregate weight carried grass until the time for loading has arrived. with from fifty to sixty-five hundred pounds no less than six thousand tons! of freight, and drawn by from five to six In 1859, the statistical figures of Hays & Native Mexicans are employed asteam­ yoke of oxen, or five span of mules each. sters mostly by traders ofthe same nation­ One driver for every wagon is attached to Co. footed up as follows: men, 5,405; wag­ ons, 1,532; mules, 4,377; horses, 360; ality. Some American freighters, however, the train. From four to ten extra hands also oxen 12,545. Thereby showing that a large hire them likewise on account of the low accompany it tofill possiblevacancies. One wages they are paid. While they receive or more mess-wagons, under the superin­ increase has taken place this year. only about $15 per month, the Anglo­ tendence of cooks, likewise form part of The value ofthe moveable property em­ American colleagues receive from $25 to the corteg&-the whole being under the .ployed this season in the transportation of $30. supreme command of the wagon master the above immense total weight, appears Everything being ready, one after the and his assistant. As to cooks, the crews of to be: wagons, $100 each, $217,000; other ofthe trains receives its load from the the prairie fleets, after having traveled on horses, $1 00 each, $46,400; mules $100 warehouses. The several wagons being of the Plains a week pr two, outshinethe deck each; $593,300; oxen, $65 a yoke, very large capacities, several days usually hands of our steamboats altogether. $579,670; total, $1,436,370. In addition, elapse in the loading of each of the trains. When "under sail" the prairie schooners the cost of saddles, harness, yokes, During the entire months of May and June, usually keep about thirty yards apart from chains, wagon covers, the provisions for indeed, the fitting out of them is continued each other, and as each of them, with its the teamster, etc., must be taken into con­ in Kansas City. animate propelling power, has a length of sideration in order to arrive at a proper conclusion as to the amount of capital ac­ The wagons, after receiving their loads, eighty or ninety feet, a large train requires often nearly an hour to pass a given point. tually invested in this carrying trade. It can­ severally return to the camping places until not fall very far short of two millions of all belonging to the train are assembled. At The time occupied in making the transit dollars. The expense incurred by one train last the "order of march" is given. A scence comprises for forty to sixty days, in accord­ of 25 wagons is about $3,000. Merchants then ensues that baffles description. Car­ ance with the good or bad luck encountered that do not run their own trains, usually pay riages, wagons, men, horses, mules and upon the trip, and the respective distances freight at the rate often cents per pound. It oxen appear in chaotic confusion. Human of the several points of destination. Stam­ is claimed that about one-half ofthe freight cursing, distressing mulish out-cries, and pedes of the cattle by Indians and other­ carried out this season went out this way. , bovine lowing, form an all but harmonious wise, breakdowns, bad roads, scarcity of Supposing it to be but twenty-five hundred concert, above the dissonances of which grass, etc., etc., frequently cause delays. tons, we find that at least $250,000 was the commanding tone of the wagonmas­ The averagetime made doesnot, however, paid to freighters. The Government sent ter's voice only is heard. The teamsters exceed fifty days. out three million eight hundred and forty­ make a merciless use of their whips, fists Having arrived at the end oftheir journey three pounds and four hundred thousand and feet; the horses rear; the mules kick; and discharged their cargo, the trains start pounds of supplies for the troops in New the oxen balk. But gradually order is made . immediately on their return trip. The back Mexico, for which contractors are paid at to prevail, and each of the conflicting ele­ freight does hardly ever amount to full the rate of from $1 40 to $1 70 per hundred ments to assume its proper place. The loads, and hence much better time is made pounds for every hundred miles, the rates commander finally gives the sign of readi­ coming in than in going out. Most of the varying according to distance and season. ness by mounting his mule, and soon the trains manage to reach the Missouri line in Presuming this average to be about $1 50, caravan is pursuing its slow way along the the course of the month of August. After a we will find that no lessthan $400,000 must road. few days of rest the trains are made ready have bt3en paid for freighting by the Quar­ Has the reader ever witnessed the inter­ for the second trip. The scenes that accom­ termaster's Department during the present esting, nay, grand aspect, presented by a panied the first outfitting and starting are, Summer. train in full motion across the Plains? Ifnot, of course, re-enacted with one variation, Would anyone wish a better argument in the following description may not be unwel­ viz.: rousing sprees on the part ofthe team­ favor ofthe construction ofthe Pacific Rail­ come: sters who receive their dues as soon as road than the above fact and figures? And they land from their first joumey, and like The trains reveal their approach at a yet they comprise but a fraction of the vast the sailors that are paid off on reaching the great distance. Long before getting within commerce of the great North American harbor after a long cruise, never stop until sight, especially where the wind carries the Plains. the last cent of their earnings is gone. sound in the right directions, the jarring and • • • • • Having accomplished the second trip, creaking of the wagons, the "gee-hoM and ACROSS THE PLAINS, 1866 Mho-haw" of the drivers, and the reverbera­ most trains go into winter quarters in New Mark L. Gardner discovered the fol­ tions of the whips, announce it in most Mexico. A few, however, return to winter in lowing in the New York Times. March unmistakable manner. The traveler coming eastern Kansas or eastern Missouri. 2. 1866, and it is reprinted as it origi­ nearer, the train will, by degrees, rise into In order to convey an idea of the annual nally appeared. sight, just as ships at sea appearto emerge proportions of the transportation business from below the horizon. The wagons being to New Mexico, an extract from a register ACROSS THE PLAINS ./ all in view, the train, when seen a few miles kept by the house of S. M. Hays & Co., of Perils of a Journey Over the Plains in Mid­ off, from the shining white ofthe covers and Council Grove, is subjoined. The store of winter-Reminiscences of "Bent's Old the hull-like appearance ofthe bodiesofthe this firm is right on the great Santa Fe road, Fort"-What it Costs to Keep Indians wagons, truly looks like a fleet sailing with and from their acquaintance with all the Goodnatured-Adventures of a New-York canvas all spread over a seeming sea. A freighters, who never fail to stop in front of Bartender-A Ball in Santa Fe. their house, the accuracy of the enumera­ further advance will bring one up with the Special Correspondence of the New-York tion may be relied on. According to the list, train master who always keeps a mile or so Times. ahead, in order to learn the condition ofthe there were engaged inthe carrying trade to road, leaving the immediate charge of the New Mexico during the present season: Santa Fe, N. M., Monday, Feb. 5, 1866. train to his assistant. Men, 5,984; wagons, 2,170; horses, 404; Journeying across the Plains in midwin-

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ter is a cool proceeding; ours was a frozen This could not last, so Bent got rid of her, however. one. By the most direct route from the and has since that time rather avoided fe­ To keep these Indians good-natured 'States,' and, in fact, the only Santa Fe male society. costs Maxwell from twelve to fifteen thou­ route, it is a fifteen days' journey. A portion Of Bent's family, two sons are with the sand dollars yearly, in goods and whisky. of this travel, too, is through a country so Indians and one with him at his ranch on He keeps entirely away from them, as he infested by Indians that s1ations cannot be the Purgatory River. (This river is called by says that he can manage a sober Indian but built and kept. the mountaineers the Picket Wire.) A not a drunken one. Altogether Maxwell and By the route that we took it is more safe. daughter is married and settled in Missouri, his ranch are subjects at interest. With re­ Leaving Denver with Gen. W. R. Brewster, but at the present time is 'on the Walnut" gard to the Indian troubles, Maxwell, Car­ the Vice-President of the Overland Dis­ with the Indians, endeavoring to prevail son, St. Vrain and other experienced men patch Company, the first hundred and fifty upon them to live up to their tenns of the agree that so long as the 'Dog Soldiers' miles ofthe distance was made in excellent last treaty, but with doubtful success. (renegade) Indians are allowed to wander time, reaching 'Bent's Old Fort,' on the Our stay at Bent's Fort was longer than about loosely so long will the troubles exist. Upper Arkansas, in forty hours. Here we is usual; but the bad weather, that the The ·Dog Soldier' is not affected by the were forced to wait, keeping Lent involun­ coach from the States met on what is recent treaty and does not care to be. tarily for five days. known as the Long Route, (over which one The next village we reached was 'Rio,' 'Bent's Old Fort,' as it is now called, was team is driven nearly two hundred and fifty an adobe-built hamlet, oftwo or three hun­ built by Col. S1. Vrain in 1834, and is known miles,) occasioned the delay. The coach dred inhabitants. Then we reached Fort in the East as St. Vrain's 'Trading Post. • It came and we started. We were more than Union, a military post, under the command is an adobe-built arrangement, inclosing three hours crossing the Arkansas, on ac­ of Brevet Brig.-Gen. Kit Carson. We found nearly half an acre at ground. On two sides count ofthe ice, or as the driver phrased it, this well-known individual in the sutler's the walls are fonned at the quarters, which three hours, three yoke of oxen, five mules store, deeply engaged in a game at high­ are more like casematesthan anything else and - lucky to get across anyhow. Two low-jack. Seated there in his shirt-sleeves, I can liken them to. The rest ofthe inclosure miles and a half an hour, for two days with a dudheen in his teeth, making all the is simply an adobe wall, of about ten feet in brought usto the Rattoon Pass, after pass­ points that were to be had, he was as height and two of thickness. ing through which we had excellent complete a specimen of the jovial moun­ taineer as I have yet seen. Gen. Brewster From this place St. Vrain has sent to the weather and good roads. and Kit were old friends, and soon were States during a single year more than one The first place of interest after passing deeply engaged in tracing out the most hundred thousand dressed buffalo robes. through the mountains is Maxwell's Ranch, practicable route from Santa Fe to Pond Here St. Vrain, Kit Carson and Bill Bent a description ofthis place will serve to give Creek, a station of the Overland Dispatch lived a joyous life. The oldfort was then well an idea of the style of life that some ofthese Company's on the Smoky Hill route. This kept and comfortably furnished. Among old mountain men settle down to finally. business arranged, we set out for 'Kronig's other things of the past, an antiquated bil­ Maxwell, as he is always called, is a Ranch." liard table was in use, and has since gone well-built man, with a good face, in which Mr. Kronig thinks that New York is not into firewood. The jovial trio lacked one one can see determination and thorough person to make up a four-handed game of much ofa placefor a young man. Heserved self-reliance. He has an old Mexican grant, as ·bar keep' for an underground estab­ euchre; so sent to S1. Louis and engaged which is as yet unconfirmed, at nearly forty the services ofa gentleman, at a handsome lishment, at a salary of six dollars per miles square. Of this he cultivates, by month, and was finally discharged for not salary, to make one of the game. A race­ means of tenants, some thousands of track was kept in fine order near the fort, being willing to pass counterfeit money. acres, furnishing the land, stock and mate­ After that he started for California The and the place was the very merriest of all rials, and receiving one-half the product. the trading posts on the frontier. Indians ·cleaned him out" three different There is, I am told, nearlyfifty miles of·sike· times, so he gave it up and turned his Those halcyon days are past. Bent was or ditch for irrigating purposes on this vast attention to farming. He has now, next to left in possession of the fort. St. Vrain and farm. Maxwell's, the finest farm that we have Carson went to Laos [faos] and made Herding is another source of income to visited, and a very much better fitted-up homes for themselves. Bent's first wife, the Mr. Maxwell-between twenty-five and residence even than Maxwell. squaw, mother of his children, died about thirty thousand sheep are somewhere on One of the camels that Lieut. Bliss this time, which seemed to affect him con­ the farm, but Maxwell does not know ex­ brought out is now owned by Mr. Kronig, siderably. Just atthis time the Government, actly where. The Indians do, however, and who says thatthe animal keeps himself, but desiring to purchase the fort for a military provide themselves liberally with the mut­ is entirely valueless so far as any useful post offered Bent $50,000 for it. Bent asked ton for food. Maxwell has also herds of work is concerned. From Kronig's to Santa $80,000, whichthe Government did not see mules and horses. The more choice stock Fe, a distance of a little more than a hun­ fit to give. Thirty thousand dollars would he keeps at the ranch. Two-thousand-dol­ dred miles, there is no noteworthy place have been a large price for the place. lar Spanish merinos are too expensive to except the ·Pecos Church,' which was built Bent soon after this took it into his head feed Indians with. by the priests that came with Cortez. This to leave the place, so he set fire to it and There is a tribe of the Indians, too, that church as been sold by the BishopofSanta went-going to the present site of Fort look upon Maxwell as the great man. One Fe, and is now being torn down to obtain Lyon, where he erected a trading post, would think to see his house that the Indi­ the adobes to build stables with. which is now used as a commissary depot ans were the proprietors at it, for they cer­ Santa Fe, or City of the Holy Faith, was for the fort. tainly occupy just as much or little as suits built by priests that came with Hernando While at this place he entered into an­ their convenience. Last Summer, the Indi­ Cortez. At the time Cortez was driven out, other matrimonial arrangement with a ans took advantage of Maxwell's absence, these priests were murdered. From this Cheyenne squaw, I think, who wastoo fond and turned the family out, taking full pos­ time until S1. Vrain and a few other Ameri­ of fire-water to be a very congenial com­ session. Maxwell came back and suc­ cans settled here, (some forty years since,) panion. One of her pleasant jokes while ceeded after some difficulty in dispersing but little is known of the place. It has at 'underthe influence" was to get herself into the crowd. Since that time there has never present between seven and eightthousand some commanding position and take shots been more than fifty sleeping in the house inhabitants-Mexicans, Israelites and with a rifle at her lord, and hardly master. at one time. This number is not unusual, Americans. The Mexicans are lazy and

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poor; the Jews commercial and rich; the or giver of the baile is remunerated. variation of that spelling). I would ap­ American population is principally con­ It is quite surprising to see the amount of preciate hearing from them. nected in some way with the Government, stock the young woman can consume. This Carol Good Near or else they have a capital knowledge of accomplished, she proceeds to fill her 1030 15th Road cards. Monte is the favorite. handkerchief (not a small one eithe~; then Lyons KS 67554 Five Roman Catholic churches, and one her pockets. After this she gets someone We are pleased to hear that WT has Protestant, minus its roof, comprise the to hold the apples, cakes, &c., and goes been helpful. wal you consider sharing places of worship. Two weekly newspa­ home with about as much of a load as she the story ofElizabeth with our readers pers, printed in English and halfin Spanish, can carry. when you complete your research? do the necessary wrangling, with a circula­ The sympathies of the people are with Thanks. tion of from four to five hundred each. Juarez, and all manner of rumor is rife with Editor Gen. Carleton has command of the dis­ regard to his movement and that of the • • •• • trict. He is a gentleman, quiet and capable, French. I am a new member ofSFTA, and my with more friends than enemies, and very The last authentic datesfrom EI Paso are particular interest is Freemasonry. I generally admired. ofthe 26th of January. They give the infor­ am corresponding secretary for Ore~ The hotels, or fondas, are tolerably kept, mation that three hundred French cavalry gon Lodge of Research # 198 AF&AM and quite comfortable. Board may be had left Chihuahua to attack the Mexicans in and am interested in any information at three and four dollars per diem. force at Conception. The Mexicans re­ about the Masonic connection with the treated; the advance of the retreating col­ Trail. Any material on this subject will We arrived on Sunday morning, and umn being expected to reach Paso del went, after the very necessary ablution to be appreciated. .. Norte to-morrow. It is generally believed Melvyn C. Friendiy remove travel stain, to the cathedral. The here that Juarez will cross to the American edifice is built of adobe or mammoth brick, 5910 SW 152nd Ave side of the river as soon as the French Beaverton OR 97007-3647 made of mud, straw and gravel, then sun­ troops press him. dried; the roof being also of mud and tim­ ber. The ornamentation of the interior is Business in Santa Fe is extremely dull. I_N_E_W__S_FT_A_M_E_M_B....;E~R,;,.o.S-'1 The merchants s8¥ that it is occasioned by rude and complicated-the paintings This list includes new memberships wretched, but of very brilliant color. The the fact that the Government has not made the usual purchases of com. Money is very received since the last issue. Those seats or pews make worship convenient; received after this printing will appear each person must bring a seat or take the scarce and difficult to obtain on the best of security. Then it can be had for four or five in the next issue..Ifthere is an error in floor, which the majority do. The congrega­ this information. please send correc­ tion was composed almost entirely of Mexi­ per cent a month. CLOQUIS tions to the editor. We thank you for cans, the females being largely in the ma­ your support. . jority. Our gentle American ladies would HELP YOUR EDITOR scarcely go there to study bonnets, for they are.almost unknow~the shawl doing duty ",.A number ofthlngsdrlve editors nuts. City of Elkhart, PO Box 640, Elkhart KS in their place. including the submission of photo­ 67950 . . The male population wear the sombrero graphs for publication without identi­ Clayton-Union County Chamber of Com­ merce, PO Box 476; Clayton NM 88415 and the inevitable blanket or serape. They fication of the place. people. event, etc. seem to be such a "let-me-a1one" sort of depicted. It only takes a few minutes Elkhart Chamber of Commerce, PO Box 696, Elkhart KS 67950 costumes that one readily agrees to do so. to attach a note to a photo with the vital information. If people are in the Union County Historical Society, PO Box The next eve we went to a "Baile." That's picture, please prOVide complete 75, Clayton NM 88415 the polite for fandango. The house in which names spelled correctly. Without the S the baile was held was distinguishable by details many photographs are practi­ a dimly-lit lantern that burned in front. En­ Henry Burgwyn & Kathleen Butler, 180 Gil­ cally worthless and cannot be used in pin St, Denver CO 80218 tering, we found a room of eighteen feet in WT. Also, a photocopy ofa photograph width and forty in length; at one end of Dina Clark & Colin Deihl, 2565 Glencoe St, will not suffice; a clear glossy print is Denver CO 80207 which, mounted on a dry-goods box, sat reqUired. Your help is appreciated. Francis & Virginia Cuppage, 4740 Black three musicians--violin, clarionet, and a More photographs are welcome: Swan Dr, Shawnee Mission KS 66216 many-stringed guitar. John & Ellen Egert, 401 Redwood, At the other end of the room was an I HELP WANTED I Wamego KS 66547 .. arrangement that seemed a cross between Robert & Carol Gayler, HCR 3 Box 1, Boise an apple-stand bar and candy-shop, while Thanks for publishing such a great City OK 73933 on benches ranged along the wall sat the newsletter. It has proven to be an in': Robert & Priscilla Greene, 610 Griffin St, dark damsels that were willing partners for valuable tool for some of us amateur Santa Fe NM 87501 anyone. Being assured that no introduction researchers. I requested help in 1992 Wanda & laVern Heller, PO Box 25, Palco was necessary, we sailed in and secured a in locating information about Eliza­ KS 67657 partner. The General chose the female of beth Inman Mathewson. wife of Wil­ George & ElvaTull, 754 Grove, LasAnimas the very grandest proportions in the room. liam MBuffalo Bill" Mathewson. I re­ CO 81054 This was fortunate for him, as hewas made ceived several enlightening responses. for which I thank each one. to do the figures nolens volens. We were Mrs. Dale Baldwin, 908 Don Juan, Santa not so fortunate, and got left several times Recently I stumbled onto informa­ FeNM 87501 standing alone, while the mazy went on tion that Elizabeth may have married Les Broadie, PO Box 565, Arco 10 83213 without us. The set completed each gent a Daniel Moffit (or Moffitt) in 1860, Margaret Freeman, RR 2 Box 191, Aurora takes the lady to the before-mentioned va­ prior to her marriage to Mathewson. MO 65605 riety-store at the end ofthe room, and she There are two men named Daniel Mof­ Melvyn C. Friendly, 5910 SW 152nd Ave, proceeds to load in cakes, candy and ap­ fat listed on a census for Arapaho Beaverton OR 97007 ples; also, a glass ofwine. Thisis doneafter County. Colorado. If anyone has any Hollis Heagerty, PO Box 47, Aurora MO each dance, and it isthus thatthe proprietor information about a Daniel Moffitt (or 65605

November 1994 23

Published by UNM Digital Repository, 1995 23 Wagon Tracks, Vol. 9 [1995], Iss. 1, Art. 1

Lola R. Herrera, 9619 Addersly Dr San Patience E. Towle, 2267 Derby Way, St rumor, at least not yet. Antonio TX 78250 ' , Louis MO 63131 In October Bonita and 1 were.~ble to Walter Kretzmann,908 Terran, Lyons KS Ernest L. Williams, PO Box 865, Elkhart KS 67554 67950 travel to Missouri where we had the Keith W. Latham, 5571 Floyd, Amarillo TX privilege of meeting Hollis Heagerty 79106 ' TRAIL CALENDAR and his brother, Howanl, at Aurora. Peter Laux, 417 Lyden St, Denver CO I. . .I They are great-grandsons of William 80220 -, ' Everyone Is invited to send notices for Heagerty. whose diary of military es­ Randy Lewis, PO Box 936, Elkhart KS this section; provide location, date(s), cort duty on the Trail appeared in the 67950 time(s), and activity. Remember this Is last issue. We saw ,the original diary Dan B. Martin, 1093'1 E 36th PI, Tul.sa OK a quarterly. The next issue should ap­ and held the revolver that Heagerty 74146 - pear in February, so send information carried with him on the TraiL We also Betty L Metzler, PO Box 867, Franktown for March and later to arrive by Janu­ saw the razor which could have be­ CO 80116 ary 20, 1995. Thank you. longed to Robert E. Lee or one of his Jacque Morris, PO Box 386, Valley Center December 11,1994: Missouri River Outfit­ subordinates. It was a pleasure to KS 67147 " , ters Chapter meeting at Lexington, MO. meet the Heagerty brothers and learn Barbara J. Nelson, 10020. W 114th, ,Over­ January 12, 1995: Wagonbed Spring more about their interesting family landPark KS 66210 Chapter meeting at Ulysses, KS. . history. Hollis Is a new member of Ho,Ward Riedel, 312 S Wilson, Ulysses KS 67880 , ' January 15, 1995: Texas Panhandle SFTA. Chapter meeting, 2:30p.m., Amarillo Phyllis Randolph, PO Box 819, Boise City fm not telling anyone about how 1 Central Library board room. ' planned to attend the Kansas State OK 73933 January 15; 1995: Wet/Dry Routes Chap- Betty L.,Sayre, 520,Chestnut, C'layt~n NM Historical Society annual meeting at ter meeting, Offerle, KS. . Topeka on the way to Missouri but 88415 January 16, 1995: Quivira Chapter annual M/M Charles Stafford, 3602 Carson, Amar- meeting at Ellinwood, KS. spent the night and much of the next 1-70 illo TX 79109 January 28, 1995: Bent's Fort Chapter day along in the camper. Ran out Nicholas Terpstra, 1475 Jamestown Way, an~ual meeting, Bent's Fort Inl), Las of gas (guagewasn't working). Missed , Orange CA 92669' ..' , Animas, CO, 10:00 a.m. the meeting. Read a great book. Bonita Marilyn Thomas, HC7 Box 55 H-l, Ingram Sept. 21-24, 1995: Bienriial Symposium, rescued me (she was coming to meet ,'TX 78025 ' . Lamed and Great Bend, KS, Steve Lin­ me in Topeka after she got off work, Ken Timmerman, PO Bo~ 1891, Santa Fe derer, Fort Larned NHS, program coor- anyway, so we could go to Missouri). '. NM 87504· . dinator. ' We had a good trip. Since we had heard that Harry Myers was taking over wr, ".AII matters relati,ng to Wagon Tracks FROM THE EDITOR we saw no need to hurry or worry. As . should be addressed to the editor: Is it true? Have you heard the latest 1 said, though, the rumor wasn't true. .-, Leo E. Oliva rumor? Is Harry Myers the rieweditor The day before we planned to start PO' Box 31 of WI'? Somehow, somewhere, the ru­ putting this issue together my father Woodston, KS 67675 mor that Myers was assuming the du­ had a stroke. He Is progressing well. (913) 994-6253 ties of editor got started and spread He took care of my mother, who has and spread and spread. Many people Alzheimer's, and Bonita assumed ,Fax,994-6255, " ... . . have written to congratulate him' on those duties for theiast month. My All inquiries regarding' mem~rShip his new pOsition, and some have even parents are now together in a nu~ing should be directed ~o the secretari sent material to him for the next issue. home. Needless, to ,say, anY.ideas of treasurer: , , ' A few have written to me, expressing getting an issue out on timequickly their thanks and declaring how re­ went by the way. Oh' well! There Is Ruth Olson Peters . lieved 1 must be now that Harry has always next time, or maybe Harry My­ Santa Fe Trail Center ers could get aD issue out on time. 1 'RR3.', taken over my job. Some were genu" inely happy that1was no longer editor. wonder: Say, have you heard Harry Lamed, KS67550 Almost too happy. It all sounded so Myers is the new editor? (316) 285:2054 good, but Harry refused. He just Happy Tnlils! wouldn't do it. There Is no truth to the -:-Leo E. Oliva

WAGON TRACKS NONPROFIT ORGANIZATION Santa Fe Trail Association' 0" U.S. W l­ POSTAGE PO Box 31 II: . fil PAID Woodston, KS 67675' w II: Q. PERMIT NO. 2 WOODSTON, KS 871l75" ADDRESS CORRECTION REQUESTED FORWARDING POSTAGE GUARANTEED ' \

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24 November 1994 https://digitalrepository.unm.edu/wagon_tracks/vol9/iss1/1 24