NORTHERN d t L y 141 t P

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(p 204 ) Muang Ngoi Neua Muang (p 207 ) and

Amble through Xieng Khuang’sAmble through Xieng of Jars (p 193 ) See for yourself what it meant to spend nine it meant to spend nine See for yourself what years hiding from aerial bombardment at caves Xai the haunting Vieng (p 200 ) Take a boat ride or kayak down the Nam Take Ou between Nong Khiaw in homestays anthropologist Play amateur with some of Laos’ last traditionally out of costumed tribal families on treks (p 231 ) Go -hopping and market-shopping in regal in regal and market-shopping Go wat-hopping valleys and into rustic tree-houses on the forested Zip-line high above (p 174 ) near Huay Xai 174 (p 13 Rte (p 171 ) Drive to Vang Vieng to Vang Drive of into the forests Trek         HIGHLIGHTS This chapter starts with Luang Prabang, loops anticlockwise from Huay Xai around to around to loops anticlockwise from Huay Xai Prabang, starts chapter This with Luang Northern Laos , then finishes with relatively isolated Phongsali Province. Province. Phongsali isolated Muang Sing, then finishes with relatively way to discover the bucolic scenery as well as a practical alternative to tortuous scenery as well as a practical the bucolic bus rides. alternative way to discover ing melting pot of cultures, best explored while trekking. River trips also offer a wonderful trips also offer River while trekking. best explored ing melting pot of cultures, any village a timeless, photogenic quality. The relatively sparse population forms an intrigu- relatively quality. The any village a timeless, photogenic appeals here is the rural life. Thatch, bamboo and timber houses abound, giving virtually houses abound, giving bamboo and timber Thatch, is the rural life. appeals here are so few historic buildings to be found. But that’s not why you come to northern historic buildings to be found. What so few Laos. are rather than restoring the few old temples that did survive, and you’ll understand why there that did survive, old temples and you’ll understand why there the few rather than restoring lovely Vieng Xai and majestic Nong Khiaw. Add to this the Lao predilection for rebuilding and majestic Nong Khiaw. for rebuilding Xai the Lao predilection Add to this Vieng lovely wars. During that terrible period, much of the population hid for years in caves around around much of the population hid for years in caves period, During that terrible china wars. towns are functional places, rebuilt after wholesale bombing during the 20th-century Indo- wholesale bombing after functional places, rebuilt towns are by far Laos’ most magical city and the region’s tourist magnet. By contrast, other northern city and the region’s by far Laos’ most magical mountain ridges. Hidden amid these lush folds, the former royal capital of Luang Prabang is Hidden of Luang these lush folds, the former royal capital amid mountain ridges. tours would resemble northern Laos. At every turn, convoluted rivers curl through layers of rivers turn, convoluted every northern At Laos. tours would resemble If a careless god grabbed a giant sheet of green paper and crumpled it into a ball, the con- it into a ball, the paper and crumpled of green sheet grabbed a giant god If a careless NORTHERN LAOS Xieng Khuang andHuaPhanXieng Khuang provinces). (particularly LuangNamtha,Phongsali, temperatures areas mountainous inhigher cent jacket todealwithcoldernight-time morning mists,butyou’lloften ade- need thechillyhot oncethesunburnsthrough clear. Daystypicallyrange fromwarmto there’s little rainandskiesare reasonably Novemberroughly tomid-February when is tovisitnorthernLaos The idealseason 142 Climate         Mkn Speedboats Slowboats Mekong Longboats Mekong totouristinterest.sible thanksinsignificantpart itself. Ineachcasethejourneyisanattraction villagers inroadlesshamletsstilltravel byriver, whileseveral longerdistanceroutes remain pos- Until the1990s,riverboats were anessentialformofinter-city inLaos. Today passenger transport WHICH RIVERTRIP? Nam Tha Boats         OTEN LAOS NORTHERN on boardandusuallyastallsellingbiscuitsoverpriced beer. crowded. The seatsare usuallyvery hard,butyoucangetupandwalkaround.There’s atoilet rides. Boats areant one-day designedfor70passengersbutare sometimesseriouslyover- but it's virtually theonlywaytoseethisattractive stretchbut it'svirtually oftheMekong. for anythinglonger. to organise thisonecangetpricey ortime-consuming. tion aroundBanPhaeng. Whentheriver levels are lowthere’s lots of rapids-shooting. Trying in theboatman’svillage. sec- Sceneryisattractive butonlygetsatalldramatic foraone-hour the touristtrailonanopenboatwitha maximumcapacityofaroundsix.Onenightisspent upstream, 70minutes downstream). andMuangNgoiNeua (90minutes boatbetweenNongKhiaw can seefromthetwice-daily river inLaosare Muchofthatyou anhourortwo’srideineitherdirection fromNongKhiaw. tions. Bringyourownsnacks. Arguably ofanynavigable themostscenicallydramaticsections daily oneachsector.part Boatstypicallyholdup to20peopleinsometimescrampedcondi- p Khua (one dayeach;Muang HatSat–Muang Khua,Muang Khua–Nong Khiaw,NongKhiaw–Luang Prabangriverboats –Huay Xai longboat XiengKok–Muang Mom HuayXai–Luang Prabang Pak Lai– HuayXai–Luang Prabang HuayXai–Pak Beng Luang Prabang–Pak Ou uncomfortable ifyou’re notbothsmallandsupple.uncomfortable Pak Beng. are priceybutincludemeals,sightseeingstopsand excellentovernight accommodationin a boatthatissimilarsize totheMekongslowboatsbutcarriesonly40passengers. Packages (oneday;p or Pak Beng–Luang Prabang 229 ( (three hours;p four hoursreturn; p (oneday;p (twodays;p , Nong Khiaw p ,NongKhiaw 187 ) Completely untouristy,butonlyrunsonceortwiceaweek. 177 or 177 178 NaLae–HuayXai longboat ) Scarilyfast,potentially dangerousandexcruciatingly 206 ) ) Take the There's similarspeedboatdangersandproblems 169 ) Atraveller favourite; covered boatsusuallyde- ) The typicaltouristtaster forthosewithnotime a week ofa week good-humoured water throwing ing heatof theMekong Valley istempered by slash-and-burn agriculture. InAprilthesear- reduced thankstothewidespread fires of choked withsmoke andvisibilityisseverely to visitthewholeregion astheairbecomes too lowfornavigation. March isabadtime tions of theMekong be andNamThamight river dropandbyFebruary levels somesec- before 10am. As continues, thedryseason Wrap yourselfupwarmlyifmotorcycling Luang Say (oneday;p 176 , andtravel inrelative luxuryon ) Both sectors are Bothsectors very pleas-

(two days;p 222 lonelyplanet.com ) Escape

NORTHERN LAOS . 143 Magic Roundabout Magic 071 / pop 70,000 071 / pop 70,000 Unesco World Heritage status means a status means a Unesco World Heritage Magical Luang Prabang (Louang Phabang) (Louang Phabang) Luang Prabang Magical was Phunheu Nhanheu, a sexuallywas Phunheu ambiguous face and a stringy with a bright red character Dougal from body like hidden kept effigies are His/her ceremonial within Wat Wisunarat, only appearing dur- widely ), but models are 154 (p ing Bun Pi Mai sold as souvenirs. into handicraft stores, patisseries and bou- into handicraft stores, The whole scene is encircled by tique hotels. the mountains at the of hazy green whose cafe- River, Nam Khan and Mekong enchanting a procession of lined banks offer viewpoints. blessed ban on buses and trucks in the old on foot or are most road users where centre Although with foreign the city teems bicycle. this is not a party destination. Most visitors, stop servingrestaurants 10pm, bars before shut at 11.30pm, and by midnight silence reigns. History Legend has it that Luang Prabang’s founder LUANG LUANG PRABANG ¹ì¸¤²½®¾¤ % ‘sights’, it’s thoroughly pervaded by a heady, time – a unique place where intangible charm and frangipani runs slowly amid fragrances of gold- drool over Silent palms coffee. fresh , while saffron-clad and-claret seem streets. the tree-shaded to float along Colonial and pseudo-colonial buildings em- phasise the tropical torpor, with many char- reworked now tastefully structures acterful LUANG PRABANG & PRABANG LUANG AROUND Laos’s royal capital former is an enchanting a the day glide by from watch place to idly restau- French or a fine bar-terrace riverside the might prefer visitors active rant. More has plenty countryside, which surrounding kayaking to explore, and caves waterfalls of elephant a couple of and cycling options and fail visitors Few camps for budding mahouts. and one trip down the Mekong, at least to take two-day visit end up many who’d planned a staying for weeks. is one of Southeast Asia’s most alluring des- Southeast Asia’s is one of any world-beating tinations. While lacking (pick-up ew ǎ wngth ǎ s Prabang & AROUND •• Luang PRABANG LUANG

For an overview of routes between routes Luang For an overview of A delightful, if often even slower, alterna- A delightful, if often Getting There & Around ROUTE CHOICES see p 334 . Prabang and the neighbouring countries, countries, Prabang and the neighbouring reconstruction, but for now it’s a nightmarish reconstruction, slog that can be impassable for days. (see p 187 ). A third possibility, Rte 10 from ). A third possibility, Rte 187 (see p slow is under very Muang Khoun to Paksan, and Pak Lai, is painfully dusty and less scenic, and Pak although the utterly it does allow you to make link to Vientiane by riverboat untouristed spectacular 13 from Luang Prabang to is Rte via Vieng. The alternative, Vang roads linking the north to the rest of Laos. of roads linking the north to the rest By far the easiest, most popular and most There are essentially only two practicable essentially only two practicable are There more comfortable. more before opting for a ‘speedboat’ – a surfboard before And with a strap-on car engine might be safer. (see the boxed text); also see the boxed text text also see text); the boxed (see the boxed boat types. Think twice for details of 340 on p secondary roads have virtually no traffic.secondary roads have boats is to use the river to road travel tive from major towns). Fortunately for adventure for adventure towns). Fortunately from major many motorcyclists with decent trail bikes, chauffeured minivan if you can afford minivan if you the chauffeured cost (roughly per day, only available US$100 sengers). Follow the local example and wear sengers). a face-mask. Or consider engaging a private unpleasant by bike or unpleasant by bike back for pas- in the with benches trucks fitted conditions, while in the dry season,conditions, while in the dry traffic cre- extremely vast dust clouds making travel ates narrow and winding that it’s rare to average to average it’s rare narrow and winding that roads On unpaved than 30km per hour. more mud in wet by is further hampered progress asphalted and even these are generally so so generally and even theseasphalted are Road journeys in northern LaosRoad journeys in slow and are are routes major exhausting. Only the most trekking paths can get slippery, leeches may slippery, leeches may can get paths trekking fords become river appear in the grass and awkward to cross. paddies glow emerald green. But un- glow emerald green. rice paddies can become impassably roads muddy, paved and September. Rains are not constant, and Rains constant, not and are and September. and the the sky clears in between showers transport gets particularly crowded. Rain particularly crowded. transport gets is in the far north, though Pi Mai after likely the rainy season between typically peaks June during the Pi Mai festival (p 154 ) – a time ) – a time 154 (p festival the Pi Mai during out and booked can be accommodation when lonelyplanet.com NORTHERN LAOS 144 Tonpheung Triangle Souvannakhomkham Golden NORTHERN LAOS (BURMA) Muang Mom LUANG Laos PRABANG&AROUND••Northern

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Indochina wars, as such avoiding the US avoiding as such wars, Indochina bombing that destroyed virtually every other northern Lao city. Through the 1980s, collec- in a major the economy resulted tivisation of business-people, aristocracy and exodus of With little money for or interest intelligentsia. destroying and looting virtually every mon- the attack, of in the city. In the wake astery the Luang Prabang kingdom chose to accept commissariat and a French protection, French was established in the royal capital. Vietnamese and imported Prabang monarchy, the brick-and-stucco offices to erect workers co- city its distinctive the and villas that give Luang Prabang quickly lonial atmosphere. colonials post for French became a favourite as pos- as far away from Paris seeking a refuge last Indochina’s sible – even during French trip from Saigon river prior to WWII, a years, than a steam- to Luang Prabang took longer to . from Saigon ship voyage a royalist stronghold throughthe remained came the capital of Lancame the capital of Xang in 1560, Luang mo- the main source of Prabang remained Lan When up Xang broke power. narchical Vongsa King Suriya in following the death of Suriya’s grandsons set up an in- 1695, one of Prabang, which dependent kingdom in Luang with kingdoms in Vientiane and competed Champasak. was so weak that it was forced to pay trib- chy at various times to the Siamese,ute Burmese China’s of and Vietnamese. The reversal Rebellion caused several groups of Taiping militias to flee southern China and re- ‘Haw’ form as mercenary armies or bandit gangs. these was the Black Flag The best known of Army who devastated Luang Prabang in 1887, 698, then Xiang Dong Xiang Thong (City of of Thong (City Xiang Xiang Dong 698, then state here the 11th century, a city Gold) from passed between the Nanzhao (Yunnanese), over Mongol empires Khmer and greater several It flourished at the heart centuries. Lanof kingdom’s crea- Xang, following that conqueror by Khmer-supported tion in 1353 Lan Ngum. In 1512, Xang’s King Fa celebrated ), a 149 Bang (p the Pha accepted as a gift from the KhmerBuddha image, mon- in its honour as The city was renamed archy. Bang). Prabang (Pha Luang (Great/Royal) Hoa Cau Treo Mai NPA Nam Nakai Nakai Theun Mahaxai

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147 Hobo Hobo 260 195; 020-5537 stocks 8am-10pm) % ; % ; h 150 150 8am-9pm) Oui’s Guesthouse 254 954; www.mon h Scandinavian Bakery

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YensaBai Books & ArtYensaBai ; Th Sisavangvong). ; Th Kingkitsarat) L’Etranger Books & Tea 150 150 and Various commercial city maps are avail- commercial city maps are Various Traditionally the town is divided into into Traditionally the town is divided are at least in pseudo-traditional at least style – a vast are Soviet 1970s mouldering over improvement concrete. ument-books.com; Th Thugnaithao; ument-books.com; new guidebooks, maps, coffee-table books and works on Lao can’t find a Hobo history. If you in the bookshops, try at Map (Map p (Map p able, but by far the most accurate and com- able, but by far the most accurate updated is the regularly prehensive Luang Prabang Maps marks virtually every business 25,000K) which usefuland around 200 guesthouses with a very indexes. series of Information BOOKSHOPS Both Sun) www.yensabaiart.com; Th Chao Sisuphon; used books and sellbuy, sell and exchange small libraries offering new ones. Both have paid loans from collections that include some titles. locally relevant otherwise hard-to-find, Monument Books that system rather than street names, which names, which rather than street that system the times over at least three changed have So don’t be surprised to find last 20 years. on maps and widely varying addresses heading north- visit-cards. The main street called is currently east up the peninsula southwest of (Phothisalat) Th Phothisarat the palace, Th Sisavangvong in its middle and Th Sakkarin (Sakkaline Rd) at the reach end. The road that runs along northeastern known is variously waterfront the Mekong as Souvannakhamphong, and Suvannabanlang, although most locals call Rd). Riverside it Th Khem Khong (Mekong most locals use for directions, Understandably names. landmarks rather than street Orientation the peninsula occupies The historic centre and Nam River formed between the Mekong Khanand surveyed hill by the stupa-topped raiseswhose Si (Pu-si, Phousy), Phu name, guffaw English many a cheap native from speakers. named for (ban), often minuscule ‘villages’ use official addresses the local wat. Many 7826; Th Kingkitsarat; A5 A5 B6 B5 C5 B2 B2 D1 C4 B6 B6 B4 D4 B2 C4 C1 D1 C4 A4 B4 C1 B4 C5 C5 C4 B4 B4 D4 C4 C4 1 2 3 5 6 7 8 9 4 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 ......

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Southern Bus Station...... Southern Lao Airlines...... Station...... Naluang Minibus Naluang Rental ...... 27) (see Chomphet Sǎwngthǎ Boats...... Cross-river Boat Jetty...... only Dry-Season TRANSPORT HotelBeijing ...... Dao Fah...... Muangsua By Night...... Thalat Phosy...... ENTERTAINMENT EATING Market Mittabhab ...... Suan Phao Guesthouse...... Suan Suan Maak...... Villa La Résidence de Phou Vao de La Résidence ...... Phuvao Guesthouse...... Guesthouse...... Sakura SLEEPING Ban Lao Hotel ...... Wat That Luang...... Wat That MaenWat Xieng ...... Wat Long Khun ...... Wat Manorom ...... Wat Phabaht...... Statue of the 'Red Prince'...... Statue Centre...... UXO Laos Information Wat Chomphet...... SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Travel...... Laos Jewel Land BCEL...... Consulate...... Vietnamese INFORMATION old city, while architectural purists lament the purists old city, while architectural to certain wats. renovations over-flamboyant an unparalleled remains result But the overall delight newer constructions while the many Such has been popular- Such the city’s international in some quarters, ity in the 21st century that gal- boutiques and guesthouses, restaurants, homes. Some fear leries now outnumber real the ‘museumising’that this is leading to a of spirit of the original – guidelines that have that have the original – guidelines spirit of in some cases. been rather loosely interpreted ciple, ensuring that any new developmentciple, ensuring that any in true to the architectural the old city remains tus in 1995, accelerating the process, raising accelerating the process, tus in 1995, and, in prin- profile the city’s international were converted into hotels and guesthouses. into hotels converted were sta- Unesco World Heritage The city received private enterprise meant that long-closed private villas and once-dilapidated shops reopened in conserving former regal-colonial the city’s its a ghost became Luang Prabang of flavour, former self. 1989, newly relegalised But after lonelyplanet.com NORTHERN LAOS 4.30pm Mon-Fri) Fuang speaksgoodEnglish. anyway. For anything serious considerflyingtoThailand. anyway. Foranythingserious 4pmwhenfew staffare orafter available at weekends costsdouble consultation(100,000K) Naxang) Adoctor’s Th Hoxiengguesthouses. per min100K,2000Kminimum; BCEL options: money toobutrates tend tobepoor. Better around 3%commission.They’ll change or MasterCardcash advancesonVisa for offer tour companiesonThSisavangvong There are halfadozenATMs intown.Several MONEY Hospital Provincial SERVICES MEDICAL Travel Viva appointedthan most. and more attractively forsale openslate,drinks midnight) Decentconnection, Sisuphon; permin150K,minimum2000K; Internet Hi-Speed Manivong tour agenciesnearby. Numerousotheroptionsin spot withbearableconnection. 10pm; 100K, 300Kperminafter Shop Internet BroadbandInternet & 1-6pmMon-Sat) viruses, zappedby camera’s flashmemoryhasbeen Ifyourlaptopisplayingupor viruses. that manysuch computers are riddledwith minute, witha20-minute minimum.Beware travel agencies. Mostcharge around100Kper are numerous internet cafes, manywithin yourownlaptop.Thereously you’llneed midrange hotels andbetter cafes butobvi- It’s increasingly commontofindwi-fi ACCESS in INTERNET Office extra days(US$2perday)atthe forupto30 visa possible toextend yourLao If youapplybefore ithasexpired, it’susually 148 tion speeds. min 150K; it atthismain branch. butshouldyourcash cardget‘swallowed’,retrieve services more helpfully centralbranchesoffer thesame Several orusethe 24-hrATM.advances onVisaandMasterCard cash Sat) Exchangemoney,cash travellerscheques,make IMMIGRATION Good internet accesscanbefoundat: (Map p146;ThPhuVao;(Map LUANG PRABANG&AROUND••Luang Prabang

(Map p (Map h DSCom Mp p150; (Map 150 7.30am-10.30pm) Consistentlyfastconnec- . (Map p (Map 150 ; ThSisavangvong;permin might beabletosave might theday. ; (Map p (Map % (Off Map p Map (Off 146 ; (Map p (Map 150 ; ThPhommatha;per 212 435;ThWisunarat; 150 % ; % 245 590;ThChaoFa Ngum; h h h 253 905; (Map p (Map 150 ; ThChao 8.30am-3.30pm Mon- 7am-9pm) Handyfor 8am-11pm) Central % h h 254 025;Ban Immigration 8am- 9.30am-noon h 8.30am- 470; ThSisavangvong;admission30,000K; much problemsolving. poorEnglishandseemedincapableof butspoke friendly brochures. Staffweencounteredgives awayvarious were and building, theofficesellspassablecitymaps(20,000K) appointedoldcolonial Inanattractively 4pm Mon-Fri) 3.30pm &5-10pmMon-Sat) 487; www.tourismlaos.com; ThSisavangvong; 487; www.tourismlaos.com; palms, theformer Perfectly framedbyanavenue of Palmyra tall ¹ ROYAL PALACE MUSEUM(HOKHAM) Sights Department Provincial INFORMATION TOURIST 10,000K credit. phone SIMcardsfor10,000Kwhich includes calls at2000Kperminute. MSN Messenger andcanoffer international Most internet cafes intownhave Skypeand TELEPHONE PostOffice POST Booth Minipost leads back tothemain line of drums metal centuries-old Khamu 1930 byFrench artistAlixdeFautereau. A life, of paintedGauginesque canvases in Lao tion room the .Totheright, of Lao gilded daisof theformerSupreme Patriarch an entryhallwhere thecentrepiece isthe marblestepsfrom thesouth.Italian leadinto rous modesty. you canhire deco- asuitably awraptoattain shirtsorshortshorts.For2000K no sleeveless ‘appropriately dressed’ toenter, which means asaresult). rise might Note thatyoumustbe to themostinteresting items (entrycharges should beanewaudio-guide toaddcontext in Englishandbythetimeyouread thisthere statue chubby-featuredVong (r1905–59)whose It wasthemainresidence of KingSisavang andFrenchtraditional Lao beaux-arts styles. 1.30-3.30pm Wed-Mon) 6pm it’s easy to miss, hidden behind market stalls. 6pm it’seasytomiss,hiddenbehindmarket most majorcurrencies at fairratesandisopendaily.After h Ö ² Unitel mobileThe MinipostBoothsells The mainpalacebuildingisapproached 7.45am-8.30pm, cashadvances9am-3pm)Changes Ø ² Ø ©ê½² stands outside. Exhibits are outside. Exhibits stands welllabelled haswallscovered inlight-suffused (Map p (Map 150 ; ThChaoFa Ngum; × $²½ì¾©¦½¸ p150;ThSisavangvong; (Map wasbuiltin1904,blending Royal Palace throne room × ¤(¹ (Map p (Map 150 ; lonelyplanet.com Ö £¿) (Map p (Map h h h 8am-11am & 150 king’s recep- king’s 8.30am- % ; 8am- whose % 212 212 NORTHERN LAOS

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8am-5pm) (Map p h , one of the few city few the , one of Wat Mai (new) monastery. The (new) monastery. . Viewed from a distance, That Chomsi ´º¾»¾´ Þ mai Wat Siphoutthabat Thippharam (ordination hall) has a five-tiered (ordination hall) has a five-tiered $$½² × m 6.30am-7pm) ¸ Ý ǐ s ¦ È ; admission by donation) h 150 Ù Reaching That Chomsi is also possible from Reaching Ascending Phu Si from the north side (329 Phu Ascending When built in 1821 to replace a 1796 origi- When built in 1821 to replace ¦ Þ ©Ä¹´ × terrace and peep and at the terrace between in the bars some unique 1860 murals showing historic Notice the River. scenes along the Mekong ar- visiting Chinese diplomats and warriors caravans. and horse riving by river climb paths the south and east sides. Two such through large gilded stupa called 20,000K; especially when floodlit at night, the structure Visiting it, how- seems to float in the hazy air. city ever, the main attraction is the series of views. Beside a flagpole on the same summit anti-aircraft cannon a small remnant there’s left from the war years. quick look at little a take steps), (Map p The carved facade shows wood renovated. the multi-trunked Buddha riding Airavata, elephant from Hindu mythology that featured on Laos’s 1975. The tem- national flag before fragments of extensive retains ple’s interior roof in archetypal Luang Prabang style, while in archetypal roof features front verandah the unusually roofed depicting scenes from detailed golden reliefs the Ramayana life, village and Buddha’s pen- birth. ultimate nal, this was the destruction spared name has stuck. It was gangs who reportedly in 1887 by the Haw harm. Since 1894 it found it too beautiful to has been home to the Sangharat, of the head Lao Buddhism. PHU SI ² the abrupt Dominating the old city centre, Si is crowned by a 24m Phu 100m-tall hill of eastern end. Note that persistent rumours rumours persistent that Note end. eastern is actually on display here image claim that the a vault in the original is stored a copy and that one ‘real’ or Moscow. The in either Vientiane the eyes and a supposedly gold leaf over has throughhole drilled one ankle. SUWANNAPHUMAHAM MAI WAT ¸ Beside the Sisavangvong; admission 10,000K; palace, Its the city’s most sumptuous monasteries. of wooden temples not to have been colourfully (over) not to have temples is chil- Royal Palace Royal Palace , an 83cm-tall residential quar- used for tempo- Wat Ho Pha Bang Pha Bang collection of meditation collection of Prabang & AROUND •• Luang PRABANG LUANG exhibition halls , including two 1960s Lincoln Lincoln , including two 1960s , however, displays gamelan-style ‘Floating Buddha’ , with some rooms preserved as they much Nearing completion in the southeast cor- For now, however, the Pha Bang lives in Bang lives For now, however, the Pha Beneath, but entered from the western side, from the western Beneath, but entered Behind the throne room are the former Behind the former are the throne room it, walk east along the palace’s exterior south it, walk east along the palace’s exterior engraved elephant tusks and three silk screens silk screens elephant tusks and three engraved by the former queen. To find embroidered an easy-to-miss little room surrounded by an easy-to-miss little room surrounded by which the Pha Bangis paraded through the Pha town which ). 154 celebrations (p during the classic Pi Mai building’s glitzy red-and-gold interior already already interior building’s glitzy red-and-gold sports a multilevel ‘throne’ space for the image and also houses gilt palanquin on a 16-man a soaring, multi-roofed temple designed to temple a soaring, multi-roofed eventually Bang house The Buddha. the Pha nally restored to Lao hands by King Mongkut nally restored (Rama1867. IV) in the palace gardens, ner of Siamese twice carried the Pha Bang Siamese to off twice carried the Pha Thailand (in 1779 and 1827) but it was fi- Lanka, though Khmer it is stylistically and from the 14th century. The dates likely more Buddhist rulers. Legend has it that the image Legend has it that the image Buddhist rulers. was cast around the 1st century AD in Sri gold-alloy Buddha for which the whole city gold-alloy Buddha for which in 1512 spiritually is named. Its arrival here legitimised the Lan dynasty as Xang royal No single treasure in Laos histori- is more No single treasure than the cally resonant Pha Pha Bang Continentals and a rare, wing-edged 1958 1958 wing-edged Continentals and a rare, Edsel Citation. photographs and the five-piece and the five-piece photographs Car Collection rary exhibits. Separate outbuildings display the tourist consumption. is a series of Phralam Theatre (p 167 ), albeit largely for for ), albeit largely 167 (p Theatre Phralam Ramayana once a These dance-dramas. were classic entertainment the Lao for court and at the Phrolak- now been partly revived have dren’s room masks for a seriesmusical instruments and of ters in 1975. The when the king departed were royal family’s decidedly sober royal family’s destroyed or looted stupas, including That stupas, including looted destroyed or Makmo (p 154 ). here display a collection of small Buddhas, small of display a collection here from recovered that were some 16th-century, golden trimmed walls are painted deep red deep painted red walls are trimmed golden mosaic- naive of feast with a and encrusted Side galleries mirror-glass. work in coloured lonelyplanet.com NORTHERN LAOS 150 0400m CENTRAL LUANG PRABANG 00.2miles

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WAT XIENG THONG ©§¼¤êº¤ × Gilt Mosaic Stupa T Villa Santi (annex)...... Santi Villa Vilayvanh Guesthouse...... Vilayvanh Santi...... Villa Thatsaphone Guesthouse...... Thatsaphone Thony 1 Guesthouse...... Hotel...... Pavilion View Soutikone 2 Guesthouse...... Soutikone Symoungkhoun Guesthouse...... Souksavath Guesthouse...... 1 Guesthouse...... Soutikone Saylom Khemkhong Saylom Khemkhong Guesthouse...... Sengphet Guesthouse...... Ramayana Boutique Hotel Hotel Ramayana Boutique Spa...... & Sala Luang Prabang...... Phounsab Guesthouse...... Guesthouse...... Pumalin Pakam Guesthouse...... Guesthouse...... Paphai Phonemaly Guesthouse...... Pack Luck Villa GuesthousePack Luck Villa ...... GuesthousePadichith ...... Pak Huay Guesthouse...... Manichan Guesthouse...... Manichan Mao Pha Shak Guesthouse ...... Lodge...... Souvannaphoum...... Maison Mala Guesthouse...... LJB Smooth Hotel LJB Smooth Hotel (Peninsula)...... Luang Prabang River Gilded Thong Jetty Rainbow Buddha classic of local design. Its roofs sweep low to design. Its roofs local classic of the ground and there’s an idiosyncratic ‘tree of of an idiosyncratic ‘tree the ground and there’s monastery on a 1560 is centred ¸ Luang Prabang’s best-known and most visited Wat Xieng Thong lonelyplanet.com NORTHERN LAOS undercarriage. Bridgestonewith theprosaic tyres of its tongued tering vehicle is festooned red- withseven royalty.Thisglit- funeral urnsof theLao carriage designedtocarrythehuge golden Hóhng KépMîen upward like rocket fumes. legs frombeneathmonasticrobesthatcurl ingly rectilinear feet emerge ondie-straight ing togesture ‘Oh,whatever!’. Thecontrast- sinuous upper-body handseem- witharight 154 Fronted inespeciallylavish gilt-work,the        Pi Mai inLuang Prabang majorevents whichstretchclothes forcertain over seven days. Festivities inLuang are Prabangwhere especiallycolourful manypeopledress intraditional new onearrives amidaseriesofcelebrationsandfrenzy water ofgood-hearted throwing. the sun’spassagefromzodiacsignofPisces intoAries. andthe The oldyear’sspiritdeparts In themiddleofAprilwhendryseasonreaches itshottest peak,LaoNewYear (Pi Mai)marks BUN PIMAI ( LAO NEWYEAR) especially inLuang Prabang. water canons thatare farremoved fromtheoriginal spirit oftheevent. and indeed someareexempt guiltyofegging fromthesoaking onlocalstousehigh-powered especially ifyouhaven’t thoughttobagupyourvaluables. Rememberthatforeigners are not can indeedberefreshing. However, bucket-loads hurledintopassingtuk-tuks are less amusing throwing. This beingtheheight ofthehotseason,beinganointed withacuportwoofcoldwater Overlaying allthetraditionalceremonies, Pi Maiisnowadaysmainlyafestival offunand water Practicalities        LUANG PRABANG&AROUND••Luang Prabang can be hardtofindatthistimeandhotel occupancy(andprices) willbeatapeak,Transport Day7 of respect. also pourwater over thehands(palmsheldtogether) oftheirelderlyrelatives inagesture (mythical water serpents).Seniormonksreceive asimilar treatment, andyoungerLaowill at WatMai–bypouringwater ontothem throughwoodensluicepipesshapedlike thePha Bang,temporarilyextend tothebathingofBuddhistholyimages–particularly Day6 toatemporarytaken pavilionerected (p infrontofWatMaiSuwannaphumaham 149 ). Day5 ceremonies, seep 53 ) withfamilyandfriends. summit stupa. Then intheafternoon in theyparticipate Day4 their localwat. Day3 avenue toWatXiengThong. fromWatPha Mahathat Day2 decorate miniature sandstupasforgoodluck. aMekongRiver islandbeachnearBanXiengMaen,localsgathertobuildandMuang Khoun, Day1 naga – A colourful finalprocessioncarriesthePha BangfromWatMaiback tothemuseum. –Acolourful –Inasolemnprocession,thePha Bang(p 149 ) leaves theRoyalPalace Museumandis –IntheearlymorningpeopleclimbPhu offerings Sitomake ofsticky riceatthe –A‘rest timetowashBuddhaimagesat day’withoutparadeswhenthedevouttake costumed paradedownLuang Prabang’smain –Civicgroupsmountacolourful, peoplegive –The oldspiritdeparts, theirhomesathoroughcleaningandatHat –The newspiritarrives. This dayisconsidered especiallycrucial,andcleansingrituals snakes thatcontrastamusingly isagarage foraceremonial coated thestupaindrearily grey concrete. destructions andthelatest renovation (1932) pillaged forhiddentreasures duringthe1887 Stupa’. Originallyconstructed in1503,itwas p 150 is commonlynicknamed ), which translates as‘Watermelon Phu Si.Alumpyhemisphericalstupahere sion free) offering viewsuptowards glimpsed grounds(admis- iftraffic-buzzed in pleasant temples lieamidPalmyraimportant palms Two of LuangPrabang’smost historically ¸ WAT WISUNARAT (WAT VISOUN)AREA × ©¸ Ø § Ý $$½ì¾© baci (b ą as ǐ i; sacred string-tying ht Makmo That lonelyplanet.com naga

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statue of the ‘Red Prince’ Behind a manicured new park featuring a Behind new park featuring a manicured . Visiting the latter helps to get a grip on helps to get . Visiting the latter Information Centre admission by donation; .gov.la; Fri) later, 40 years War, and how nearly Indochina death or injury from unexploded ordnance re- in severalmains an everyday reality provinces. Colourful, if unsophisticated, murals of murals of Colourful, if unsophisticated, Buddhist history and (sometimes gruesome) walls but the interior morality tales cover no translations nor interpretations are there to justify the entrance fee. SOUTH OF THE CENTRE the following Hop on a bicycle to discover sites. clapping large p146; see also p32) lies the sobering the devastation Laos in the Second suffered

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(admission 20,000K; (the best grade sticky rice) to be cooked to order by your guesthouse. Or buy it Or buy it (the best grade sticky rice) to be cooked to order by your guesthouse. Prabang & AROUND •• Luang PRABANG LUANG Wat Aham Kao Kai Noi avoid making eye-contact with the monks remove remove shoes put a sash or scarf across your left shoulder folded behind (don’t sit), men may stand women should kneel with feet maintain the silence (arrive by bicycle or on foot, don’t chatter) by bicycle maintain the silence (arrive stand across the road from the procession or better still watch inconspicuously from the the still watch inconspicuously from procession or better stand across the road from the possible) (where window of their hotel from taking refrain a long zoom. or at best do so from a considerable distance with photos use flash Never Once in situ: Although such processions occur all over Laos, Old Luang Prabang’s peaceful atmosphere and and atmosphere Prabang’s peaceful Laos, Old Luang such processions occur all over Although        ; Th Wisunarat; admission 20,000K; If it’s genuinely meaningful to you, you may take part in the ceremony – meaningful in this case meaningful to you, you may takeIf it’s genuinely part – meaningful in this case in the ceremony and takes Joining in some preparation photographed in the process. implies not wanting to be Don’t be pushed into half-hearted participation unspokenknowledge to avoid causing offence. commercialisation and to the procession’s contribute Such vendors by sales-folk along the route. organise low-grade at all. Instead, nothing than giving rice that is worse many sell over-priced, some fresh-cooked from the morning market before the procession. Carry it in a decent rice-basket, the procession. Carry from the morning market before not fresh-cooked upper arms (covered as you would for a temple respectfully arriving, dress Before a plastic bag. and chest, skirts for women, long trousers for men). Wash your hands and don’t use perfumes handing it out. or lotions that might flavour the rice as you’re TAK BAT – THE MONKS’ ALMS PROCESSION MONKS’ ALMS – THE BAT TAK pious townsfolk place while the streets through saffron clad monks pad barefoot Daily at dawn, which through ceremony It’s a quiet, meditative bowls. rice in their begging tiny balls of sticky gain spiritual merit humility while lay Buddhists and poverty their vows of monks demonstrate giving. by the act of respectful the morning’s perambulations means that temples extraordinary of mist-shrouded concentration tourists result, Sadly, as a Sakkarin romantic scene. an especially along Th Kamal and Th create visitors campaigns begging constant coming to outnumber participants. Despite progressively are incapable of keeping paparazzi seem not to poke a the monks’ faces, the amateur cameras in non-participating Sensitive, observersdecent distance. should ideally:        Smaller Facing That Makmo, That Makmo, Facing 150 by Wat Mai (p 149 ) two hundred years ago. ago. years ) two hundred 149 (p by Wat Mai was the residence of the Sangharat (Supreme the Sangharat (Supreme of was the residence Lao of Buddhism) until superseded Patriarch tion here having been rescued from various from various been rescued having tion here temples. abandoned or ravaged side. Along with some medieval ordination Along with some medievalside. ordination placed for their protec- stones, these were collection of old gilded ‘Calling for Rain’collection of Buddhas with long sinuous arms held to each operating temples it’s actually an 1898 re- operating temples construction built following the Black Flag for paying return a rather meagre raids. As you can perusethe entrance fee a sizeable Visoun), who founded it in 1513. Though Visoun), who founded it in 1513. Though Luang Prabang’s oldest as one of touted p Wisunarat (King its name from Chao takes lonelyplanet.com NORTHERN LAOS quoise shelter.quoise gigantic holyfootprinthiddenbeneathatur- race fromwhich steps leaddowntoanother isa shady Mekong-frontspires. Behind ter- is fronted byadistinctive ifkitschy arrayof p river-view drinksandexcellent cafe serving of alongwithagreat information toperuse patience andskill required. becomes vividlyaware of the extraordinary master craftsmenandwomenatworkone silk productionanddye-making.Watching andgive into asuperbinsight half-hourly fabrics. Free tours of thecentre roughly start ners andbatik-makers producetop-quality tionally styledworkshopwhere weavers, spin- free; p (off Map ing attheexcellent lane leads200mtowardstheMekong emerg- temple of was builtin1910,fiftyyears before hisdeath. ashes of it though KingSisavang Vong, even old brassplates. Itreputedly the contains of which isplated withanarmourof corroded The lookmorecapitals CorinthianthanIndian. s thecurrent However, 3rd centuryBC. byAshokanestablished missionariesinthe royalty, legend hasitthat of theBuddha’spastlives. gilded pillars andexterior reliefs retelling tales woodenwindowsandportico,rosette- carved erected in1548.The1910 stupa is namedforavenerable Lanna-style covered ingoldleaf. ing limbswere replaced withconcrete falsies reconstituted in1919and1971themiss- elementswere was hacked apartbutsurviving 1372. Duringthe1887disasters thestatue Luang Prabang,the invisible). Possiblytheoldesttemple-site in outside whatwere oncethecitywalls(now Mahapatsaman) Manorom Phonsavan. If youmissithere, there’s asimilarcentre in 156 6m-tall bronzeBuddhaoriginallycastin6m-tall ǐ 146 m Just beyondtheextensive Further souththemodernVietnamese–Lao Traditionally thecremation site forLao Mahathat WatPha Winding lanestothewestlead If you’re waiting foratour,there’s plenty ;admission10,000K; h is a1818rebuild leafycolumn- whose s LUANG PRABANG&AROUND••Luang Prabang ǐ m 9am-5pm) 146 isbracketed bytwostupas,thelarger

(Wat Mano, Wat Manolom; Map p Map WatManolom; (Wat Mano, Wat Phabaht Wat Phabaht ; % , set amidfrangipanitrees, set just 212 597; www.ockpoptok.com; admission 212 597;www.ockpoptok.com; , abeautifullylaid-outtradi- OckPopTok Living Crafts Centre OckPopTok LivingCrafts h (Wat That;Map p150) (Map p (Map s ǐ 8am-6pm) m contains asittingcontains Wat That Luang Wat That 146 s Talat Market ǐ ;admission10,000K) m wasoriginally in fronthas 146 ;ThPha

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a rockyfootpath.Ataboutthispointclimb becomeslittlemoretrack. Iteventually than edged ‘street’ slowlydegradesintoarough renovation. the namesof USdonors whopaid fortheir cilled columnsconspicuouslyinscribedwith attractive ‘family’of Buddhas andhassten- astery’s current, colourful Themon- nights. in Thaihands–forseven its waybacktoLuangPrabangafter 40years 1867 byhousingthePha (p Bang 149 ) –on p village of XiengMaen. Ban east alongtheriverbank fromthetraffic-free of attractive monasteries thatare scattered neitherbike need normaptovisittheseries bikestain you’ll (perday50,000K).However, district sketch maps(3000K)andrents moun- p (Map ferry landingabranch of the Mekong toMuangChomphet.Above the For avery different ‘village’ atmosphere, cross ACROSS THEMEKONGRIVER some overhanging bougainvillea. Flicking the walk furthereastthen upafew stairs beneath price) ticket in theWatLongkhun to visit you thekey required andtorches (flashlights) wrecked sailors. ship- One scenedepictsgiantfishattacking of perspective.murals withacurioussense tic style,whilethecentral monastic outbuildingsretain acohesive rus- before ascendingthethrone. Todayvarious spend three daysinretreat atWatLongkhun king waspending,itcustomaryforhimto When thecoronationof aLuangPrabang bougainvillea andstarburst Palmyra palms. WatLongkhun undisturbed viewsof thetownandriver. is littlemore thanashellbutthesite offers by greying twin pagodas.Thehilltoptemple WatChomphet tofindthe1888 an obvious123-step stairway 146 possible here, see p possible here, see 158 . droppings. Weaving anddyeingcourses are yes, auniqueinfusionmadefromsilk-worm of worm-pootea – thesurprisinglypleasant for twopeopleincludingabeer. Ortryacup food.Amulti-dish lunch costs85,000K Lao XiengMaen’sBan long,narrow,brick- If youaskattheticket desk theyshouldgive Continuing eastyou’llfindtheenchanting First foundedin1592, ;admission5000K) 146 Tham Sakkalin Sakkalin Tham ;www.laosjewelland.com; (Map p (Map (Map p (Map gainedahallowedairin 146 146 (off Map p (off Map ; admission 5000K) ;admission5000K) ;admission5000K) . It’sthree minutes’ Laos Jewel LandTravel Laos Jewel Wat XiengMaen 146 s s h ǐ ǐ lonelyplanet.com m m ;admissionincluded features old 8am-4pm) contains ancontains set amid set fronted sells sells (Map (Map

NORTHERN LAOS

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(off Map craft boutiques 11am-11pm) h , an ensemble of , an ensemble of 252 856; Th Wisunarat; 212 239; www.tamnaklao (off Map p 150 ) has a ) has a 150 p (off Map 212 642; www.dhammada. 212 325; massage 60,000- % 020-7777 0484; www. Artisans du Mekong % % % 8.30am-4pm) % h (Map p 150 ; before/after 4pm 30,000/ 150 (Map p (Map p 150 ; 150 (Map p (Map p 150 ; (Map p 150 ; 150 (Map p 6am-9pm Mon-Fri, 7am-9pm Sat & Sun) (Map p 150 ; 150 (Map p Ban Xang Khong (Map p 150 ; 150 (Map p 254 981; h % ; massage 9am-9pm, sauna 5-8pm) Housed in a nicely 10am & 6pm) Full-day cooking classes including 10am & 6pm) Full-day Mon-Sat) Sign up one day before at Tamarind restau- at Tamarind Mon-Sat) Sign up one day before 150 preserved walls, building with half-timbered Lao–French your own the decor is simple and prices low. Take are towel or sarong. h com; Namneua Lane; per hr foot/oriental/aromatherapy massage 100,000/100,000/160,000K; Reckoned place to be the best in town. A stylish-rustic beside a meditative lotus pond. .net; Th Sakkarin; day/evening 250,000/200,000K; h tamarindlaos.com; Ban Wat Nong; one-day US$28; h rant and arrive the next there 9am. You’ll morning before be whisked off to Phosy Market to learn about choosing local herbs and vegetables, then on to the class in an attractive rural pavilion overlooking a fish pond. Transport included. The experience are and ingredients is thoroughly all day. to be on your feet but be prepared recommended, 350,000K, sauna/manicure 30,000/60,000K)350,000K, sauna/manicure Garden setting with various and detox packages. relaxation Tamnak Lao Tamnak Spa Garden FITNESS Luck Gym Pack Courses COOKING Tamarind Options are abundant for herbal saunas and Options are Lao, Khamu cheap- The or Swedish massage. on Th Khemest places (including a trio Khong and several on central Th Sisavangvong) per hour for body or from 40,000K charge with oils. The following 60,000K foot massage; searching out: more a little take Dhammada Lao Red Cross beyond, beyond, paper- and weavers watch you can where work their of at work, buy examples makers to courses practical organise and sometimes learn for yourself. striking The most visually is gallery-workshop a style behind temple-archaic buildings in cafe The raisedgiant ‘tusk’ gateway. floor-seat serves snacks. and a selection and coffee tea of Activities & SAUNA MASSAGE 400m-strip of old houses old and of 400m-strip New, high-quality work-out equipment in a somewhat equipment in a somewhat New, high-quality work-out ragged historic Steam room open 5pm to 8pm. building. 50,000K; p sat on a Wat Had Siaw bamboo foot- Wat Xiengleck (Map (Map p 150 ) with gilt Buddha – take the unpromising the unpromising – take (Map p 150 ). The dusty 150 p (Map are constructed, making for constructed, are Prabang & AROUND •• Luang PRABANG LUANG (Map (Map p 150 ), and ; admission free) Watpakha Xaingaram Wat Punluang (toll 2000K) 146

Crossing the southern bamboo bridge you’ll the southern bamboo bridge Crossing Beyond Wat Had Siaw a path climbs a Siaw a path climbs a Beyond Wat Had Around 20 minutes’ walk further east is the walk further east is the Around 20 minutes’ seven-headed snake (fifteen minutes’ walk). walk). (fifteen minutes’ seven-headed snake atmospheric dilapidation. Half a kilometre a kilometre atmospheric dilapidation. Half (off Map p 150 ), which sports a wobbly old ), which 150 p (off Map brick stupa in an Wat–style state of its ruined shell of a temple, peaceful riverside peaceful riverside a temple, its ruined shell of Wat Phonsaat interesting craft village of Ban Xang Khong, of craft village interesting passing beside road to the left leads 2km to the unpaved climb steps past the highly recommended past the highlyclimb steps recommended ), emerging 164 Sabai (p Dyen garden cafe, the ‘Old Bridge’ by bicycle or motorbike, via by bicycle or motorbike, the ‘Old Bridge’ the northern bus station by car. river is high (June to November), the bridges the bridges is high (Juneriver to November), disappear and access becomes circuitous – via its semi-rural neighbourhoods. When the its semi-rural When the neighbourhoods. dropped significantly, a pair of dropped significantly, a pair of bridges ACROSS THE NAM KHAN RIVER KHAN THE NAM ACROSS In the dry season, levels have once water boat isn’t always practicable due to seasonally sandbanks. changing back via Ban Xieng Maen to the main crossing back via Ban Xieng Maen Wat Longkhun by point. However, reaching across to virtually any point on the north bank levels for around 20,000K per boat. If water such idea is to hire allow, a good excursion a boat to the Wat Longkhun jetty then walk Alternatively boatmen at various other points boatmen Alternatively will run you on the Luang Prabang waterfront cross-river boats (local/foreigner 2000/5000K) boats (local/foreigner cross-river Office. Navigation depart from near the Getting There & Away There Getting passengers, a handful of have Once they and is topped with a new and is topped with a new wooded hill that’s all a-chirrup with birdsong wooded hill that’s all a-chirrup right the along just after fork about halfway You’ll pass a lonely main path turns inland. be- stream-bridge hut and cross a one-plank arriving. fore operational if rather decrepit little if rather decrepit operational (off Map p cave. A few Buddha fragments are kept in a kept Buddha fragments are A few cave. to the rightniche the only as you descend but is the inexpli- here feature remarkable really seems to produce. the cave cable heat that switch to the right of the door only partially il- only partially the door the right to of switch limestone 100m-long this slippery, luminates lonelyplanet.com easy access to the Nam Khan’s east bank and NORTHERN LAOS dry season, crossthebamboo bridge foradry season, lovely p 153 inastretch). Strollback,taking of the mous monastery of all, of thepeninsula. Don’t missthemostfa- mospheric watsasyouwanderup the spine Procession (p 155 of), dipintoaselection at- explore thematdawnafter theMonks’Alms French Ifyoudidn’talready colonialhouses. ( Xieng Mouane thepalm-shaded footpathsthrough of royaltylived until1975.ThenmeanderLao the ( street through p 149 ) anddescendtothemaincommercial the hillviaBuddha’soversized of Phu Si.Climbto residential homestoreach thesouthernflank theuntouristedway through littlemazeof (p 166 fuelled,trytoweave). Suitably your Patio Le atattached coffee andcroissants orsimplyenjoygreat ethnicmosaic Laos’s the excellentlittleexhibitiononnorthern open Monday)which opensat9am.Peruse Market After the anearlystrollthrough offer informalcourses onrequest. central gallery-shops(p 167 ). completion. YoucanbookviaOckPopTock’s site, anewfour-room isnearing guesthouse on courses costUS$35.Ifyouwanttostay bamboobasket-makinghandiwork. Half-day lunches are includedandyouget tokeep your ter craftsmen,allmaterials andexcellentLao dyeing, weaving orikat.Teachers are mas- textile asmallgroupclassin artsbytaking US$45/55/100/150) courses half-/one-/two-/three-day 597; www.ockpoptok.com; Centre OckPopTokLivingCrafts WEAVING Dhammada MASSAGE behind thewell-knownTamnak Laorestaurant. classesset evening three-hour shoppingorshorter market 158 too hazyforviews,continueinstead around fore thedaygets toohot.Or,iftheairlooks courses costingUS$60to$350. massage tofive-day one- com; NamneuaLane)Offers Wlig Tour Walking 8 5 ) withitsinvitingcafe terraces andLao- ; p 149 ). Ifyoucanarrive by11am,visit Some weavers (p XangKhong inBan 157 ) Royal Palace Museum LUANG PRABANG&AROUND••Luang Prabang ( Nam Khan waterfront Nam Khan 1 ; p 166 ), arrive as (Map p (Map 150 ; ( 7 Tryyourhandatarange of ) toreach the Wat Siphoutthabat Thippharam Wat SiphoutthabatThippharam % That Chomsi That 212 642;www.dhammada. ( 6 Wat Xieng Thong Wat XiengThong ; p 148 how ) tosee ( TAEC

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The 8-bed dorms offer unparalleled value unparalleled value dorms offer The 8-bed ) Padichith Guesthouse Padichith Paphai Guesthouse Paphai Mala Guesthouse Sengphet Guesthouse Soutikone Guesthouse 1 & 2 Saylom Khemkhong Guesthouse luxurious but those at Soutikone 1 are al- luxurious but those at Soutikone 1 are most totally panelled in varnished wood 1920s ocean of giving the vague impression liner cabins. Rooms vary considerably and doorways to nowhere, oddities like some have and helpful manager Mr Wong speaks decent and helpful manager upstairs Spartan sitting area English. A large, faces the Mekong. out/with bathroom 70,000/80,000K) and natural light but the beds are is limited, bathroom has hot comfy and even the shared Bananas, are and drinking water coffee water. several similarly priced alterna- are There free. alley. in the same crooked tives Hoxieng; without/with bathroom 70,000/100,000K; above place that’s a notch friendly budget most at this price with simple Lao paintings to spice up the walls. Unwind in the tree-shaded front yard. shared bathrooms are decent. Private rooms decent. Private bathrooms are shared deal. poorer a much are prices and superb location rock-bottom phere, basic rooms with nearly compensate for very just-bearable that share walls bamboo-weave bathrooms and hot showers. basic, cramped and dingy The four rooms are and central on the loveliest cheap but they’re lane in town. 304; Th Khem Khong; 50,000/60,000K) s/d without bathroom the on the windows and discolouring of big and well- has relatively sheets, this cheapie runs hot water bathroom lit rooms, the shared BUDGET can US$20 anything under Prabang In Luang costing rooms Many ‘budget’. be considered un- cramped and rather are under 100,000K exceptions. are pleasantbut there Prabang Luang Central X3 Hostel/Xayana Guesthouse Ban Hua Xieng; dm/d 30,000/150,000K; www.mylaohome.com; a and comfort that’s travellers for solo budget famous but depressingly the more far ahead of ropey SpicyLaosclean New, Backpackers. and the mattresses super-thick bunks have 990; r 80,000-180,000K; shared bathroom 50,000/80,000K)shared If you accept the taped-up floorboards, bars If you accept the taped-up floorboards, bars 253 340; www 212 093; www.green % % 252 655; www.laos-advent % Prabang & AROUND •• Luang PRABANG LUANG (Map p 150 ; (Map p 150 ; (Lao New Year, p 154 ) in April, 154 p (Lao New Year, (Map p 150 ;

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ures.com, www.biking-laos.com,ures.com, www.trekking-in-laos .com; Th Sisavangvong) discoverylaos.com; Th Sisavangvong) discoverylaos.com; out-of-centre location. mostly further south, notably along Th Phu special enough to warrant the are Few Vao. good bars nearby. Bigger hotels, some aimed hotels, nearby. Bigger good bars and Thai/Chinese tours groups, are at package and lower-midrange places south of Phu Si are Si are Phu places south of and lower-midrange a knot of less atmospheric but there’s generally relatively central choices. A selection of budget- A selection central choices. of relatively pretty and generally good value Ban Hoxieng is good value Ban and generally Hoxieng pretty formerly residen- a delightful little network of behind the main post office, tial lanes tucked good value yet concentration of with a great days. You’ll generally pay a hefty premium for pay a hefty premium days. You’ll generally Compact, the palace. northeast of any address dering, with hundreds of existing options and of dering, with hundreds every 18 a new guesthouse on average opening fall at least 25% from May. The choice is bewil- The choice fall at least 25% from May. given here are for the high season are (October to here given climb higher Prices briefly for Pi Mai March). (mid April) and Christmas, but will typically Accommodation costs are considerably higher considerably Accommodation costs are in Laos.in Luang Prabang than elsewhere Rates processions. Sleeping cally around the upper peninsula. Please read Pleasecally around the upper peninsula. read such attending before 155 p text, the boxed so advance bookings are wise times. at such so advance bookings are central Wat Ho in front of pass conveniently atmospheri- Siang, with another looping more Daily after dawn, monks’ alms-processions Daily after Prabang for both the ‘water throwing’ festi- Prabang for both the ‘water val Festivals & EventsFestivals on Luang converge visitors of Large numbers Tiger Tiger Trail Lao Youth Travel ism projects and community involvement. ism projects Green Discovery trekking, kayaking and biking trips, are well kayaking and biking trips, are trekking, and/or standorganised out for their ecotour- aren’t necessarily the cheapest but have a a but have necessarily the cheapest aren’t including regional offerings of wider range and Lao visa extensions are easy and cheaper and Lao easy and cheaper are visa extensions yourself).to arrange following agencies The notably those lining Th Sisavangvong, also money and bicycles, change book flights, rent visas that Vietnamese (but note arrange visas lar and prices are generally competitive, but competitive, generally prices are lar and agencies, Many around. pays to shop it still .laoyouthtravel.com) lonelyplanet.com NORTHERN LAOS Hoxieng; r130,000K; 40,000/70,000K) unfussy butvery cleanrooms featuring com- boo &woodbungalows have extensive views r 100,000K; guesthouse isexcellentvalueandquietlyguesthouse with screened showers. come withpaintingsandensuite bathrooms Phu Siviews.Theground-floor rear units of aboutiquehotel andawideterrace with coloured wallsshare abathroomthat’sworthy room US$20/15) 0137; www.manichanguesthouse.com;with/withoutbath- temperamental. and afrontshared balcony.Wi-fi isfree but withpartlywood-panelledroomshouse ensure afree supplyof bananasandcoffee. rooms are upstairs. Obligingfamilyowners of abetter Thebesttimber-clad guesthouse. the feel of areal homeyetalltheconveniences hasverytionally styledwoodenhouses much Hoxieng; r130,000K; alms procession. find withadirect viewof themonks’dawn box roomsthatare aboutthecheapest you’ll r120,000-150,000K; Th Sakkarin; are allfree forguests. internet, coffee, drinkingwater andbananas tucked downapretty residential alley.Plug-in outfrontamongthepot-plants. swing seat stencil artworkandair-con, plusthere’s alittle hassimple for such a central location.Each unrefined rooms are remarkably goodvalue Apart fromalittlecracked paintwork,these BanWatNong;r90,000K; [email protected]; Soutikone 2. corner innoticeablyolder,farlesspolished Thecheapestglimpses. roomsare aroundthe small, shared balconygives obliqueMekong missing windowsorunfinishedbathrooms.A 160 from modestbalconies andallhave afan,hot Guesthouse Phuvao South of the Centre small balconyoffers residential views. bedsandwritingdesks. Upstairs a fortable r150,000K) Pakam; water andkitschy Cheaper patterned sheets. Symoungkhoun Guesthouse Symoungkhoun Guesthouse Vilayvanh Pak HouayGuesthouse Pakam Guesthouse Pakam Guesthouse Manichan SouksavathGuesthouse Guesthouse Phonemaly LUANG PRABANG&AROUND••Luang Prabang ai Upper rooms with bright, two- Upperroomswithbright, Three of simple bam- the seven This neat little guesthouse has Thisneatlittleguesthouse aW a ) Thissparklingcleannew

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US$200 provides a whole mini-library with mini-library with a whole US$200 provides villages. library that sails to remote for a ‘book-boat’ stock. ‘their’ trip that delivers Next door to the library the possibility that donors join the river the p commodity in Laos as anywhere. Give back to the local community by making the most of some commendable enterprises in Luang back to the local community by making in Luang Give the most of some commendable enterprises Pop into Prabang. GOODWILL ACTIVITIES a Villa Senesouk Hoxieng 2 Guesthouse Phounsab Guesthouse traditional pottery adorning the corridors and the corridors adorning traditional pottery rooms the nine suave Some of little lobby area. TVs flat-screen have and roomy bathrooms Don’t con- shower. with a tub and rainforest Hoxieng; r with/without balcony US$35/30; slightly ones. cramped $40 panelled rooms here have full mod-cons, the have panelled rooms here space than more US$50 options offering garden-courtyard, the ‘new’ block is designed garden-courtyard, the ‘new’ Wood- a traditional family home. to look like dark, the upper ones brighter and sharing dark, the upper ones brighter and sharing away across a balcony. Tucked a wat-view laohotel.com; Th Sakkarin; r US$30-50; passesing monks’ procession right outside slightly rooms – the lower ones the cheaper with wooded trim and polished board floors. with wooded trim and polished rooms are set back off a narrow courtyard and rooms are big and breezy front ones are the great-value 40; the Phounsab’s newer commercial centre, [email protected]; r US$25- Th Sisavangvong; stairway. An archway leads through to each leads throughstairway. to each An archway shower. room’s rainforest weavers’ poles as curtain rails and a large ec- poles as curtain and a large rails weavers’ the wooden static lounging above Buddha The peninsula branch doesn’t look much doesn’t branch The peninsula look much with but inside it’s crammed from the road silk- doors, ideas, tapered curious design tems but room standards are high for the high the for room standards but are tems nearby. bars several lively are there price and lonelyplanet.com 2 feels like a real boutique hotel with art and boutique hotel a real like 2 feels NORTHERN LAOS This professionally managed hotel isinfact salaprabang.salalao.com; Th Khem Khong; rUS$65-80; salaprabang.salalao.com; Khong; ThKhem colonial-era buildinglooksenchanting at of 1930s Shanghai-retro the style andeven main two-storey hotel hasenticingelements US$140-195; com; nies cascadewithvividbougainvillea. 1954 transitionprimeminister. Upperbalco- thatwasoncehome to Laos’s century house with rawstonework,thereception isina19th- deciding which onetotake. Stylishlyre-clad revamped. 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(Map p 6am-9pm Mon-Sat) (Map p h Behind a shuttered colonial-era facade Behind a shuttered ) 6.30am-7.30pm; pissaladière Le Banneton Saffron JoMa Bakery Café Le Café Sene Ban Vat Pizza Sasa Restaurant Le Calao you’ll find thick grey walls affecting a curious you’ll find thick grey modern-art look beneath large designer-damp canvases. anaemic but the The croissants are tasty, the sand- the quiches is reliable, coffee soups and saladswiches, all popular and the delicious hot egg-cheese-ham (23,000K) bagel trusive service trusive colonial-era in this relaxed the best The croissantsshophouse-cafe. are in town whether served hot (7000K) or filled ham, salad sauce and béchamel with smoked if you spend 50,000K. is free (32,000K). Wi-fi 11,000K; snacks from 9000K, coffee in town, what’s probably the best bread Bakes buttery offers you to linger. invites area cafe pitched 10,000K; is sourced from Lao and served growers on a and break- Good wraps terrace. Mekong-front also available. fasts are 12,000-35,000K; Ngum; snacks biz; Th Chao Fa aW using Roquefort or foie gras with refined gras with refined using Roquefort or foie but beautifully small subtlety. Portions are house wine costs 65,000K per half-presented, fondues, raclette Order ahead for carafe. litre or BAKERIES & CAFES unexotic shop-stalls serveMany strong Lao 5000K a cup. However at around if coffee seeking pastries and you’re out European a growing selec- there’s coffee espresso-style you. Most servetion to tempt light meals too. Sakkarin; 10,000/15,000K; snacks 7000-35,000K, coffee/beer h and enjoy friendly unob- jazz to Bossanova European food like duck in Grand Marnier or Marnier duck in Grand food like European dill-sauce scallops. That; pizzas 40,000-70,000K; made for thin-crust pizza expat favourite Last for orders oven. wood-fired in a real pizza is 9pm. Romantic in the night-time candlelight, the 1904 Calao’s tables front an archetypal terrace is cooked food colonial-era house. French sauces many rich with considerable aplomb, old-style desk-tables, read the newspaper the newspaper old-style desk-tables, read www.calaoinn.laopdr.com; Th Khem Khong; mains www.calaoinn.laopdr.com; French 55,000K; 90,000-150,000K, Lao mains

The katsudon 253 493; Th 253 493; Th , 252 482; www. 7.30am-9.30pm 7.30am-9.30pm 11am-11pm) % 11.30am-10.30pm) Good coffee Good coffee % ; ; Th Chao Fa Ngun; ; Th Chao Fa ) ; 020-5467 6176; Th 020-5467 6176; Th h gyoza h h 020-7777 6748; www. Genuine Korean Genuine Korean 150 150 150 W % ; % 253 698; www.blue-lagoon ; Well-cooked meals, meals, Well-cooked 150 (Map p (Map p % 150 9am-9pm) 020-7751 8300; snacks 20,000-

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(Map p h (Map p Authentic Thai and excellent Thai- katsukare 10am-10.30pm) L’Elephant Café Namphu Café de Malee Sushi Big Tree Café Nazim Indian Food Nazim Indian some of Luang Prabang’s most reliably cooked cooked Luang Prabang’s most reliably some of stated colonial-era vibe. The menu offers menu offers The stated colonial-era vibe. A classic open-sided corner building uses lazily turning ceiling fans and part-lowered a brilliantly under- bamboo blinds to create elephant-restau.com; Ban Wat Nong; European mains 90,000- elephant-restau.com; 210,000K, Lao mains 35,000-70,000K; upper section looks over the rusty roofs of of the rusty roofs upper section looks over Café Formerly wi-fi. 56. Free Ban Hoxieng. and tapas, and Lao, both Spanish served in art-filled whosea two-level attractive cafe espresso 10,000K; espresso amid the banana fronds and fairy lights of the amid the banana fronds and fairy lights of open courtyard. some with a Germanic twist, are servedsome with a Germanic twist, are in or restaurant the multileveled timber-framed Blue Lagoon -cafe.com; WESTERN WESTERN Wed-Mon) and daikon pickles and rice. after all. However, a delicious range of other of all. However, a delicious range after include favourites Japanese verted Ikea showroom and when fresh fish showroom and when fresh Ikea verted might sushi not be much there isn’t delivered 35,000K, meal sets 45,000-60,000K, sushi 30,000-150,000K; 35,000K, meal sets 45,000-60,000K, h food along with Japanese, Western and local- Western food along with Japanese, served orlam) are fusion options (try tofu in Adri Berger’s framed Laoa gallery of photos (for sale). bigtreecafe.com; Th Khembigtreecafe.com; Khong; snacks 13,000-15,000K, mains 18,000-45,000K; half-hearted but the crispy dosai as the decor cooking keeps the kitchen and creditable are for Luang Prabang. till 11pm, unusually late Sisavangvong; mains 12,000-35,000K; Sisavangvong; mains as are faux-tandooribiriyanis and chicken curries. Our malai kofta (tofu-raisin-cashew (tofu-raisin-cashew malai kofta curries. Our balls in semi-sweet curry) was superb. restaurant whose minimal aesthetics are whose are aesthetics minimal restaurant compensatedamply value Indian by good lonelyplanet.com Khem Khong; mains 25,000-75,000K; fusion food served at outdoor tables in front house whose rectilinear a Mekong-facing of the study for a 1960s book of lines look like ‘modern’ architecture. NORTHERN LAOS andlivefrogs. shrimp greens, eggs,dried liveliest intheearlymorningwhenlocalsstock uponleafy that’satits inBanPakam street market Mon) Acolourful though occasionally someplaces stretchthough this closingtimeis11.30pm mojito Legal stand. including twoappealing winebars anda east of thePalace hasplentyof drinking places The mainstretch north- of ThSisavangvong Drinking Market Mittabhab Talat Phosy market Morning can imagine. and‘meat’inmoreetables versions thanyou Food markets are great forfresh fruit,veg- SELF-CATERING are usuallyfinished by2pm. otic shop-front wellupthepeninsula. Stocks fromanentirely unex- belly) intownisserved pieces of chicken ordeep-fried crispypork inabrothwith (round ricenoodlesserved 8000K; 15,000-20,000K. withlemongrassisabargainstuffed ataround There’s a‘vegan’ Wholeroastfish even stall. platefuls 70,000/100,000K). serve-yourself spiced, tourist-oriented dishes(small/large mini-buffetsYou canalsosample of mildly variety of cheap yetwell-cooked localfood. hoof. There’s nobetter placetotaste awide so youdon’thavemunal tables toeatonthe hind thetouristoffice withilluminated com- emergestalls atduskonanarrowstreet be- office. Various too. fruitstalls stalls for10,000Katmakeshiftwiches sell A varietyof well-filled French-bread sand- EATS QUICK trouble. withbattery placed powerpointsforthose Complementing thefree wi-fi are handily tive totheTEAC. views,attached mountain onashadedterracesandwiches withattrac- sos andnibbledeliciousfeta-olive baguette Arabicaespres- smokedPhongsali teas orLao from 15,000/29,000K; wi-fi. makes foralegendary hangover-cure. Free 166 complex. e Patio Le Nightfoodstalls Xieng Thong Noodle-Shop XiengThong LUANG PRABANG&AROUND••Luang Prabang (Map p (Map h from 6.30am) (Map p (Map (Map p (Map 146 ) 150 ; h 150 (a p150; (Map h Mp p146) (Map ; 7am-10pm)

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11.30pm) bar–restaurant complexconsistsof lush, 11.30pm, kitchen till11pm) 11.30pm, kitchen moodily litgardens,palmtrees, statuettes and stairs roomforoccasionalimpromptudancing. framed DocMartens bootandahiddenup- Bohemian barwith1930schairs, cocktail a space, chess toplayandfree wi-fi. touches, amplesofastylish barwithoriental the bestriver views. open-air Mekong terraces, LPB hassomeof barprices. at Belgian beers stocksBelgian rary musicwhileHouse foot of Phu Si.Nextdoor,Hive hascontempo- close-packed drinkingspotsatthesouthern joyfully exoticplaceisthebestof half adozen costs 10,000Kforaslongyouwant. (mains 20,000K,hotpotsfrom35,000K).Wi-fi range of foodstylesandmanyveggie options gardenrestaurantthe pleasant hasavery wide thecity’scheapest (7500K),while beer serves furnished withdisconcertinglylowceilingsand timbered inquestionistastefully 1945house inMaycontinued till3am,closed 2010. the oneexceptionwhere drinkingregularly a little. The localbowlingalley,forsometime Vao; southern busstation. mainstream to the Western sounds.It’sclose poptakes over,then Thai/Lao sprinkledwith local groovers. Live bandsplayearlyevening oftalk-over tothedelight young spotsinLao andaDJwholoves lighting laser tables, todo openmuchNeither stay beyond11.30pm. Luang Prabanghasonlytwodanceplaces. NIGHTCLUBS Entertainment of attractive residential alleys. crowd. Followthesignsdownawindingmaze more anever music waftsthrough chilled-out trancy intheevening, leyball matches. Later views,bargamesandoccasionalvol- Khan alsolingeryou might forthelanguidNam tomakeis slowenough thatcome true. But foraday’istheirmotto,andtheservice stay pavilions. ‘Comeforadrink,cushion-seat Utopia Utopia IkonClub Lounge Satri LPB LaoGarden AncientHouse Muangsua ByNight Muangsua DaoFah h

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; 212 5.30- 146 167 Luang Luang % Kinnaly h 253 253, ; (Map p Navigation % 146 ; 213 049; Airport) 150 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, % ( (off Map p h

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Silver shops is decidedly modest, though big expansion For artistic photos of local scenes, local scenes, For artistic photos of 212 172; Th Pha Mahapatsaman; (220,000K, two days) are also available but also available (220,000K, two days) are Beng; to sleep curiously it’s in Pak you’ll have Beng to Pak to pay the fare slightly cheaper This also then buy the onward section there. in attractive allows you to stay a little longer Beng The main the place. you like should Pak two or three daily), Chiang Mai (US$125, one daily), Chiang Mai two or three five (US$130, one hour, hour, daily), Hanoi weekly) Cambodia and Siem Reap, (US$180) (1,345,000K) on Monday, Thursday via Pakse and Saturday. also flies to both Siem Reap (four times (twice daily). weekly) and Hanoi BOAT travel. on river for important notes 340 Read p Beng nine (110,000K, For slowboats to Pak from the 8am), buy tickets hours, Office Huay Xai to Through-tickets Palace. Palace Museum to Th Kitsarat.and Low-lit Palace hard selling quiet, it’s devoid and is possibly of doz- of Tens in Asia. the most tranquil market sell traders silk scarves,ens of wall hangings, clothing, T-shirts, Hmong appliqué blankets, bags, ceramics, bamboo shoes, paper, silver, fair remarkably Prices are lamps and more. come from often ‘local’ creations but cheaper China. Getting There & Away AIR Around 4km from the city centre, Airport Prabang International 173) afoot. For Bangkok (US$160, 100 plans are minutes), houses in Ban royal the traditional Ho Xieng, district. silversmiths’ kinnaly-lao.com; Café the gallery at Big Tree while and white, for available has full-colour images ) 165 (p sale. NIGHT MARKET HANDICRAFT but highly evening this tourist-oriented Every appealing 10.30pm) Gallery also serves Vientiane (695,000K, 40 minutes, 253 334; Th Sisavangvong) 8am-3pm Sat) % is is ; Th 150 Pathana Pathana 254 406; Th 254 406; Th OckPopTok OckPopTok 8am-9pm) (Map p

; Royal Palace ; Royal Palace % 212 262; 29/4 Ban

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Boulevard Café-Bar Prabang & AROUND •• Luang PRABANG LUANG The misleadingly named ‘Royal The misleadingly named Ban Nong 7.45pm Fri-Wed) 8.30am-6pm) ; www.ockpoptok.com; h h 150 The Luang Prabang Film Festival (p 320 ) 320 (p The Luang Prabang Film Festival an impressive old French mansion. old French an impressive upstairs via the easily missed side entrance of via the easily missedupstairs side entrance of ments for use in the Royal Palace. The shop’s ments for use in the Royal Palace. antique statuary, jewel- main specialities are and old coins. Its entrance is lery, silverwork annual Miss Luang Prabang contest, while annual Miss Luang Prabang contest, father once made costumes and orna- her late Boupha Antique House Visoun; ing its own naturally dyed Lao silk and cotton clothing. along with custom-tailored particularly notable for producing and sell- Many specialise in fabrics but Many (Map p gilded Buddhas, handmade paper products abound. souvenirs tempting and all manner of Sisavangvong and the Mekong waterfront, waterfront, Sisavangvong and the Mekong boutiques selling local art, characterful where The best areas for shopping are Th Th for shopping are The best areas runs every at several year in early December around town. venues Shopping Pay for a drink and you can watch a movie a movie for a drink and you can watch Pay , 147 (p Books & Tea at L’Etranger the day of weather permitting, at 7pm) and, screening at the open-air CINEMA bought the very cheapest tickets could end could end tickets cheapest bought the very up standing. nominal ‘royal’ connections, the theatre has the theatre nominal ‘royal’ connections, And hall. a 1970s school all the glamour of guests who full (rare), that if all the seats are provided at the entrance to have an idea of an idea of to have at the entrance provided what’s going on. Be the that despite aware and include a Ramayana-based scene – it’s notes the typewritten well worth reading chestra’. Performances last about 1¼ hours 1¼ hours last about Performances chestra’. Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat) Lao traditional Ballet’ puts on slow-moving a 10-piece Laodances accompanied by ‘or- Phrolak-Phralam Theatre Grounds; tickets 70,000-170,000K; THEATRE to inspire local line-dancers. It’s a curious curious It’s a line-dancers. local to inspire any fash- that eschews time-warp experience ion sense. room behind the Muangsua Hotel, a Lao Hotel, behind the Muangsua room band tunes lilting selectionan archetypal plays of lonelyplanet.com Sisavangvong; textiles. The owner creates costumes for the The owner creates textiles. Ho Xieng; NORTHERN LAOS town. Several popularbusroutes aretown. Several dupli- to Huay Xai from a pier opposite Le Calao Calao to HuayXaifromapieropposite Le Prabang toThailand’sGoldenTriangleonin- a comfortable six-seater minivan. Pricesin- six-seater a comfortable option istogather yourowngroupandrent is often quicker cheaper. andslightly butgettingrelevant station yourowntuk-tuk 25,000K extra. Thatincludesatransfer to the you’llgenerally pay around or guesthouses posite thelatter. agencies Bookingthrough 13,800m pastKm382) hotmail.com; Rte minibus station fromthe cated byminibuses/minivans % southern busstation p Map Predictably the enough, BUS &MINIBUS longboat office signed up.Buytickets little attheeasilymissed people departs around9amassumingenough hours) (120,000K,seven boat toNongKhiaw 8.30amandlunchtime.part between Asingle aswelltravelyou sleep (departsThursdays). boats withsun-deckandsixteen cabinsinwhich novative river- newtwo-storey German-Lao Thong) p (Map up tothe anagency,things through it’sworthheading assume afullboatsounlessyouorganise there are nofixed departure timesandprices hours). However Huay Xai(280,000K,seven hours), Pak (170,000K,three hours) and Beng up theMekong toTha Suang(120,000K,2½ ardous six-person p 177 formore details. direction thanreturning fromHuayXai.See restaurant. Findingavailability iseasierinthis say.com; 50/4ThSakkarin) Riverboat vary accordingtoriver levels. the navigation officebutdeparture pointscan slowboat landing 168 cross theonlycrossroadsenroute. that becomesanunlikely dirttrackonceyou post thenhead300mdownanunpaved road Rtetown: turnwestoff 13besidetheKm390 make enquiries.That’saround5kmnorth of ifpricey, The comfortable, For lessthandoublethebusfare, agreat Numerous boatsfor thePak Oucaves de- Fast haz- andseriously butuncomfortable River permitting, levels 252 066; Rte 13,Km383) 252 066;Rte 146 150 makes lazy seven-day trips from Luang makes tripsfromLuang lazyseven-day LUANG PRABANG&AROUND••Luang Prabang ; ; % % (Map p (Map speedboat station 071-254 768; www.cruisemekong.com; Ban Xieng 071-254 768;www.cruisemekong.com; BanXieng 252 729; Rte 13,700mbeyondKm387) 252 729;Rte (Map p (Map (Map p (Map 150 (Map p150)isdirectly behind ;

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minibus (95,000K)fromNaluang For Phonsavan (10hours) there’s an8.30am Phonsavan &Vietnam tomer numbers are sufficient. Prabang, departingat8am,butonlyifcus- stand five hours) fromthe start (100,000K, 2pm. DustypickupstoHongsa at9amand depart thesouthernbusstation toSainyabuli(50,000K,fourhours)Buses Sainyabuli &Hongsa splendid. Thesceneryenroute isconsistentlystation. (90,000K) departfromtheNaluangminibus plethora of toVang morningminibuses Vieng leave6.30am and7.30pm.VIPbuses at9am.A hours) Vieng (110,000K,sixtoeight between 125,000/145,000K, nineto12hours) viaVang (express/VIP to ten dailyVientianeservices thereFrom thesouthern busstation are up Vientiane &Vang Vieng including pick-upfromyourguesthouse. to Vang Viengand500,000KtoNong Khiaw prices are 850,000KtoPhonsavan, 850,000K Directly booked theminibusstation, through gans thattypifymanyapublicdeparture. petrol-stop anddriver-buys-lunch shenani- clude photostopsandyou’llavoid thefarcical southern bus station at7am,sometimes ear-southern busstation time of research it wasdepartingfromthe Beijing Hotel China (420,000K, 24hours) started fromthe Until recently bustoKunming, thesleeper Northwestern Laos&China pull insometimearound5.30pm. Neua–bound bus(fromVientiane) should Thong (100,000K,10hours). Another Sam Sam Neua(120,000K,17hours) via Vieng and 1pmorthe8.30ambusthatcontinues to tion use tion. Alternatively, fromthenorthernbussta- fromNaluangminibussta- start minibuses (50,000K,fourhours), 9am For NongKhiaw Nong Khiaw&SamNeua on Thursday andSunday. 175,000K, around21hours) departsat6.30pm bustoVinh(Vietnam, athrough station, Alsofromthesouthernbus ern busstation. 85,000/105,000K, 10hours) fromthesouth- andan8ambus(ordinary/‘express’station

(Map p146)acrosstheriver fromLuang s ǎ wngth courtyard(mapp 146 ), but at the ǎ ew (35,000K)at9am,11am Chomphets lonelyplanet.com ǎ wngth ǎ ew NORTHERN LAOS 169 cut into cut into (Tham Thing; admission 20,000K)

caves An alternative is to go by road to Ban Pak is to go by road to Ban Pak An alternative Appealing as the scene may be, the caves be, the caves Appealing as the scene may Ou (30km, around 150,000K return for a tuk- Ou (30km, around 150,000K return across the river a motor-canoe tuk) then take Ou is 10km down Ban Pak (20,000K return). 13 Rte road that turns off a decent unpaved near Km 405. where the narrow footpath-streets behind the the narrow footpath-streets where full of (if mostly new) wat are attractive very fabric stalls looms, colourful and a weavers’ liquors of stills producing the wide range few sold. GETTING THERE & AWAY sellsLuang Prabang’s longboat office return person/boat Ou (per to Pak boat tickets taking two hours 50,000/300,000K return) and giving you back 1¼ hours upstream, minutes plus 20 around an hour at the caves most numer- are Departures at Ban Xang Hay. continue all ous around 8.30am but generally and guesthouses agencies morning. Travel often sell for a little more, the same tickets including a tuk-tuk transfer. deepcarved-wooden behind an old portal. (flashlight),If you didn’t bring a torch you can borrow one for a suitable donation from a desk at the front. many an attraction for less of are themselves boat trip from Luang than the Mekong visitors you’ll that So be aware there. Prabang to get see should the exact same river section of Beng or Luang you do a Luang Prabang–Pak Prabang–Nong Khiaw boat trip (see the boxed and April, villag- p142). Betweentext January sandbanks pan en route along the Mekong ers wooden platters. for gold using large HAY BAN XANG en visitors Whether by road or by boat, most Ou stop at this ‘Lao Lao to Pak route Village’ distance south, looks like a vast green eagle eagle a vast green distance looks like south, Ban Pak of is the village it taking off. Facing restau- river-front of a couple Ou, where the On across the Mekong. rants gaze out fa- two are no bridge) (there’s other side mous crammed with cliff.the limestone are Both various styles and sizes. of Buddha images lower ‘cave’ the from the river, steps A few of A group an overhang. of is actually more against as silhouettes Buddhas pose perfectly the backdrop. To reach the grand riverine to the left and climb follow stairs upper cave, This one is 50m- sweaty minutes. for five 212 979, 020-5577 2720; % ( who charge US$15 for 24 who charge Prabang & AROUND •• Around Luang PRABANG LUANG Þ Naluang Rental

Around town locals often pay just 5000K often Around town locals

A much more satisfying way to get around satisfying way to get more A much Be careful to lock bicycles and motorbikes Be to lock bicycles and motorbikes careful dramatic karst formation that, from some that, from some formation dramatic karst «Õ¯¾¡º a beneath Ou joins the Mekong The Nam to the agency office from your boat trip. Note office from your boat trip. Note to the agency that tour prices don’t include entry fees. Pak Ou Caves the sites are in opposite directions, but the directions, in opposite are the sites to the Kuang Si is that the vehicle advantage should be waiting when you return waterfalls Pak Ou caves and Tat Kuang Si (prices from and Tat Ou caves Pak that 105,000K). It’s an odd combination, given For those time in Luang Prabang, with limited vie to sell combining the agents one day ‘tours’ AROUND LUANG PRABANG AROUND LUANG will occasionally fine foreigners for either for either will occasionally fine foreigners infraction. to miss but although you’ll see locals flouting the rule (and riding without helmets), police overnight. Note that the peninsula’s outer that the peninsula’s outer Note overnight. easy road is one-way anticlockwise: signs are securely and don’t leave them on the roadside and don’t leave securely tract for costs US$15 a day or US$20 for 24 hours. costs US$15 a day or US$20 for 24 hours. actually subcon- However almost all agencies shops and some guesthouses for 15,000- typically 30,000K per day. Motorcycle rental is by bicycle. They’re rented by numerous by numerous rented They’re is by bicycle. the vehicle. for short tuk-tuk rides but foreigners are are but foreigners for short tuk-tuk rides flat 20,000K per hop. To the a charged on 50,000K for speedboatreckon landing the old bridge you could walk to the terminal you could walk to the terminal the old bridge in around half an hour. ple share the ride. From town back to the From town back to the the ride. ple share less. From airport you might pay marginally port charging a standardised 50,000K into port charging peo- three if over town. These will cost more Luang Prabang has no motorbike taxis, only Prabang has no motorbike Luang from the air- tuk-tuks, plus the odd taxi-van 110,000K, 15 hours) at 5.30pm and a VIP at at 5.30pm and hours) 110,000K, 15 7pm (VIP, 135,000K). Getting Around buses run to Udomxai (50,000K, five hours) at hours) buses Udomxai (50,000K, five run to (80,000K, 4pm, Luang Namtha 9am, noon and (Borkeo, at 9am and Huay Xai nine hours) lier. Pre-booking, and checking the departure departure the checking and Pre-booking, lier. is wise.location, bus station the northern From lonelyplanet.com hours if you book directly with them. if you book directly hours Naluang Minibus Station) NORTHERN LAOS boat down theMekong Ou(onehour to Ban steady hillstoclimb. way. Bybicycle, be prepared fortwo long, paved and allowsstopsinvillages alongthe very nowthattheroadisdecently pleasant and letanagency dotheorganising foryou. the touristoffice. Orpay45,000Kperperson travellers besidethebaguette sellers’ area near gether fellow animpromptugroupbymeeting Somefolksmanage tocobbleto- for several. charge 120,000Kforoneperson, 200,000K Tuk-tuks fromLuangPrabangtypically THERE&AWAYGETTING bathroomsandnomosquitonets. cold-tap with mattresses ontheplankfloors, private has fouroverpriced bare-board bungalows ( towards LuangPrabang, Thapene. TenBan minutes’ walkdownhill park atthetopendof village theKhamu of their feeding. fate. certain same Souvenirs are soldtofund here inpreference toreleasing themtothe confiscatedbeen frompoachers andare kept charge) bearlao.com; noextra noticed awell-designed top poolstolinkthetworoutes. the is very youcaneasilywadethrough high of withsections steps.maintained Unless water scramble whiletheoneonleftisbetter isaslippery minutes up).Theonetotheright ingly steep footpaths oneitherside(around15 butyoucanclimbtothetopviaexhaust- base The bestviewsare fromthefootbridge atits longesterful beautywhose leapisaround25m. further you’llreach themainwaterfall, apow- booths (bringtogsandtowels).Five minutes jump dives andthere are afew even changing pools thatare popularforswimmingorrope- tumbleintolimpidopal-blue cascades. These ringed carparkbringsyoutothefirst of several A five-minute forest walkfromtherestaurant- most impressive, especiallyinthedryseason. on amany-tiered 30km southwestof town.Thepark iscentred jungle park curious bedfellows inthisappealingifbusy Bikinis, bears andbeautifulmature trees make ª¾©¡¸¾¤§ Tat KuangSi 170 % An appealingalternative istocharter a When youentered theparkyou’llhave Visiting KuangSibyhired motorcycle is Many cheap eateries linetheentrancecar- 020-7755 9808; Rte 2501,900mpastKm23;r70,000K) 020-7755 9808;Rte LUANG PRABANG&AROUND••AroundLuang Prabang Ù (admission 20,000K; waterfall . Theinmates here have that is one of Laos’s thatisoneof Laos’s bear enclosure Viradesa Guesthouse Viradesa h 7.30am-5.30pm)

(www.

3000K) (100,000K perperson). of set elephantrides and hometoasecond ride southof LuangPrabangcostsfrom east atKm371.5.Bytuk-tuk,the30-minute village that’sjust1kmeastofLao Rte 13–turn from minimum) thatstarts ride (10,000Kperperson return, 20,000K there onavery boat seven-minute pleasant (p174). Experience competitortotheGibbon imagine aserious two of linesare those over 100mlongsodon’t you to‘fly’aroundandacrossthefalls.Only perperson300,000K) www.flightofthenature.com; 3.30pm) notably year-round gimmickskeep visitors coming, no singlelong-dropcentrepiece. Butseveral by February and,unlike Tat KuangSi,there’s November. Theydryupalmostcompletely fromAugusttoticularly memorablesight waterfall cascadepoolsofThe wide,multi-level this $Õª Sae Tat choice buttocharter a‘friend’s’tuk-tuk. at different villages fromwhich there’s no havehowever, knowntodroppassengers been directly Ou’swat.Someboatmen, behindBan the fallsturns90degrees awayfromtheriver to thefallsshouldbeeasyhitch: Rte 2501to downstream) fromwhich theremaining 5km Tat Sae waterfall. on Rte 13,just500m shortof the turningto Kok Gniew afterlooping roundeventually 14km to east andsouth,tially followsthe Nam Khan 1km furthereast.Amostlyunpaved roadini- weaving- andhandicrafts-village lessthan beside theroadto tions. It’sonagentle1kmoff Rte 13 rise, ner of Buddhiststoriesandmoraladmoni- five interior are levels painted withallman- expected; is the1988 Bridge’ painted adazzlinggoldenhue. This spied alarge stupanearthe‘New octagonal If youclimbedPhu Siyou’llsurely have ® &Beyond Ban Phanom of hours’Aen’s wait.Ban around 100,000Kreturn includingacouple É ¾$²½$ Part of theattractionof avisitisgetting Ü ¡ª¾©Á¦ isfive minutes’ walkshortof theriver andaloopof 14 h elephant rides

(admission 15,000K; í ´/¦ , the‘pineapplevillage’ atKm372 8-10am &1.30-4.30pmMon-Fri) Santi Chedi Ý ¦¾$¹´ É Ban Phanom

(per person120,000K; (Peacefulness Pagoda; donation Þ ¹ Zip Lines Ü © h 8am-5pm) car park Ban Aen lonelyplanet.com ( %

, aprosperous 020-5429 0848;

are apar- (bike parking parking (bike , apeaceful allowing , whose h 8am- Ban NORTHERN LAOS

252 (Km 171 shack- has a % ( (Km 233) Onth Bun , a transit Phieng Fah guesthouses is a mixed is a mixed (Km 309) Kiewkacham Kyomailo hamlet

(Km 257) Nam Khene 020-5550 4784; 500m past (Km 347)

% ( Ban Phoudam 020-5534 2375; without/with bath- Phu Khoun Kiokalam II Guesthouse %

is a better central option with is a better ( (p 139 ), 30km further south, 139 (p , 3.5km further towards Vang , 3.5km further towards Vang 020-5522 5577; mains 25,000-40,000K; offering a possible rest spot spot a possible rest offering Phongsaat % Kasi , karst walls and limestone spires spires walls and limestone , karst ( and around , for cinemascopic views across mean- , for cinemascopic has cramped box rooms but Western toi- rooms but Western has cramped box has a market and three basic and three has a market 8am-8pm) Beyond the pricey glass-walled There are more views from more are There Phoukhoun Bankalao The mighty Mekong threads together the together threads The mighty Mekong and Sainyabuli, along with Bokeo of provinces Beng in southern Udomxai. For many Pak is seen in passing be- tourists the region merely tween Prabang – typically Thailand and Luang from Huay Xai on the two-day slowboat route panorama not shared by the six sizeable guest panorama not shared rooms with sweetheart sheets, hot showers and fireplaces. Restaurant h the next 25km the most spectacular make Phra Pha all. The twin prongs of section of viciously stab the air when viewed south- bound descending towards and basic a roadside hamlet whose restaurant bungalows (50,000K) sadly fail to overlook the scene. accommodation choices. has more MEKONG THE MIDDLE (Km 296) 7 junction (for Phonsavan). at the Rte village At least four basic guesthouses Khoun at Phu tatty rooms from 40,000K. The have Mixay Guesthouse room 60,000/70,000K) (walls less big, new beds, shiny tiled floors option bathrooms. The top clean) and bucket is taurant groups has a splendid aimed at coach Towards Vang ViengTowards Stop at is spectacular. Vieng Vang 13 to Rte an unnamed thatched Km 354, near cafe dragon-toothed towards green dering valleys mountains. a base at the Khamu-Hmong strip village of crag. forest-draped with sweeping views at restaurants handful of its southern end. Just beyond, 308) (r 40,000-60,000K) pedalling hours’ around five for cyclists after ‘Clean Toilet, from Luang Prabang. Marked Awesome View’, lets and new mattresses, along with a hidden along with a hidden lets and new mattresses, is awesome. viewpoint that really Vieng on a chilly ridgetop, where a large res- a large where ridgetop, Vieng on a chilly Km 253; r 110,000K) 571) is Lao Spirit 252 417; www % (

) takes the exclusive the exclusive takes 253 522; www.alllaoservice. % . Mouhot was a French a French . Mouhot was (

as 030-514 2411; www.zennamkhan Prabang •• Around Luang THE MIDDLE MEKONG . The scene is especially pho- . The scene is especially % . Elephant rides lasting around . Elephant rides lasting around (

is closer to the river and has a is closer to the river Elephant Village 8am-3pm) h 030-514 0111; www.lao-spirit.com; r US$90-120, from Higher up the same hill, Canadian-owned Less than 2km further along the road are Less the road are than 2km further along Both elephant camps offer comfortable comfortable Both elephant camps offer Around 5km beyond, the German- The road is dusty and gently hilly but quiet hilly but quiet and gently is dusty The road % ation but as a result is a little slimy underfoot. ation but as a result is highly attentive. The spring-fed swimming The spring-fed is highly attentive. from chlorin- in refraining pool is ecofriendly minimalist bungalows enjoy wide-view bal- minimalist bungalows enjoy wide-view Serviceconies and inside-outside showers. resort.com; r US$130-150; stylishly Expansive, approach. boutique hotel walk from the Elephant Village. Zen Namkhan sturdy brick stilts. Road access is 1.7km off the minutes’ road but on foot it’s just ten Phanom US$75 May-Sep) ( bungalow resorts near Elephant Village both near Elephant Village bungalow resorts views. German-run gorgeous have setting facing a splendid karst ridge. Elephant setting ridge. facing a splendid karst road that dead-ends is down the spur Village 2km in Banafter Xieng Lom village. .elephantvillage-laos.com, www.elephant-park-project.org) and offerings place with similar another such is worth biking to if only to enjoy the riverside sibilities), contact its Luang Prabang office ; Th Sisavangvong). 150 (map p longer mahout courses and riding-kayaking mahout courses longer pos- dozens of are combination trips (there 90 minutes start90 minutes 11.30am and at 8am, 9.30am, at 2.30pm. For 1.30pm with elephant bathing All Lao Elephant Camp com; togenic in afternoon light with a large karst- light in afternoon with a large togenic backdrop. hump mountain a perfect forming you’ll pass the the village reaching Just before the mural-daubed old wat and gilded stupa of and gilded stupa of the mural-daubed old wat Ban Noun Savath more cheerful and in the drier months the and in the drier months cheerful more beneath becomes a popular ‘beach’ riverside picnic and swimming spot. on me, O my God’ before expiring. His heav- expiring. on me, O my God’ before looks altogether ily bearded statue at the site Wat. He perished of malaria in Luang Prabang malaria in Luang perished of Wat. He pity scrawling in his diary ‘Have during 1861, tomb of Angkor known for ‘discovering’ best Explorer and several points of interest. Around 4.5km Around interest. and several of points signed track de- a steep from Ban Phanom, 300m to the whitewashed scends in around and scenic with some attractive karst scenery karst attractive with some and scenic lonelyplanet.com accommodation, and two more luxurious luxurious accommodation, and two more organised organised convivial collection of thatched cottages on cottages thatched convivial collection of NORTHERN LAOS 5pm daily) Handy booth right beside the pedestrian besidethepedestrian 5pm daily)Handyboothright Lao Development BankExchange Booth LaoDevelopment here.the night tostop you’llneed the GibbonExperience and friendlyouter villages. Ifyou’re doing quickly findabackdropof rich green hills butstep backjustalittleandyou’ll in Laos, not asimmediately beguilingaselsewhere place feels lessorganised thanThailandand river portorcross-river jettytoThailand.The tuks waitingtorushthemthebusstation, and touroperators, plusthequeueof tuk- river-town isthecentralstripof guesthouses All % that manytravellers of thisMekong see ¹ HUAY (HOKSAY) XAI still-pristine forests. ethnic mixandreputedly proportionof high districtareKhop ‘lastfrontiers’ withacomplex way aheadof thecrowds,placeslike dramatic far off thetraveller radarbutifyouwanttobe go. Western Sainyabuliremains particularly wherever adecentphrasebook you’ll need you ephants. OtherthaninHuayXaiandPak Beng issynonymouswithworkingel- cially Hongsa, population.SainyabuliProvince,sparse espe- harbours 34ethnicitiesdespite aparticularly deposits inHuayXaidistrict,andtheprovince Mine’,takes itsnamefromthesapphire‘Gem more adventurous traveller. Bokeo, meaning via Pak –butthere’s plentytointerest Beng the 172 Information É ¸¨§¾¨ CROSSING THETHAI BORDERAT CHIANGKHONG&HUAY XAI (HOKSAY) 1500B on the 5pmsailing). point andtheslowboat landinginHuayXai, costing500B formotorcycles,1000Bcars(or station. The nearest Thai-side ATM isnearly 2kmsouth. charge (or60Bafter30B topaytheport 4.30pm)andanother30B for thetuk-tuk tothebus the visafee forthoseheadingintoThailand –arriving ontheThai orThai sideyou’llneed baht currenciesLao immigration(opentill5pm)converts atafairrate, egsellingUSdollarstopay don’t have mugshotthey’llcharge apassport-style 40Bextra. Anexchangebooth rightbeside (most nationalitiesUS$30toUS$40plus aUS$1surcharge orafter atweekends 4pm).Ifyou or three passengers. As usualtheLaoimmigrationpost gives touristvisason arrival thirty-day Thai side,10,000/3000KfromtheLaoside. Boatsleave withinafew minutes, even withonlytwo for saleontheLaoside. that youwon’tfindsnacks ‘lastchips’,drinks’etcmisleadyouintothinking side signslike eventually). Even ifyou’re planningtoheadstraightforLuang Prabang,don’tletsneakyThai- Lao–Thai the Crossing 084 /pop20,000 THE MIDDLEMEKONG••HuayXai(Hoksay) A vehicle ferry crossesafew timesdaily(except Sunday)between the mainThai immigration Pedestrians crossbylongboat(three minutes), costingperperson/bigbag30/10Bfrom the border ( h 8am-6pm) ( h 8am- here isbyMekong riverboat (abridgeisplanned Frontedbybigbronzeelephants. week. daysa 11 currencies includingVietnamesedongseven US$billsmustbedated2006orlater.into kip. immigration window.Mostmajorcurrencies exchanged softener.order, withfabric international 24-hourATM. some suggestionsforexcursionsaroundtheprovince. mapsofthetownand Hasfree, OKtourist 4.30pm Mon-Fri) features muralsof gruesometorture sceneson pillars anddoors. ish frontage withdazzlingred, goldandgreen Xaiyaram Khonekeo ing Mekong views beneathfloralfoliage. posturesthe mainmeditation anddisdain- row of gildedBuddhas demonstrating eight Phakham 3km southof thecentralarea, directlythe rise above landing, thespeedboat originally constructed in1880.Commanding lane, emerge atthehilltop Naga the Mekong colourfulwats. views fromseveral Huay Xai’smodesttouristattractionsinclude Sights InformationOffice Tourist Laundry speedwi-fiandinternet, pluscomputerrepairs. High Yon Computer Bank Phongsavanh BCEL Fort Carnot Carnot Fort a longBuddhareclines behindchicken wire. the The very dilapidated shellof French-built s ǐ ( stairs, ascendingopposite theferry access m h ’s northwallwhileontheslopeabove, (10,000K per kg) Clothes machine-washed to Clothesmachine-washed (10,000Kperkg) isacolourfulnewtemple featuring a 8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) Exchangeand 8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) sits onthehilltopbehindBokeo (per20mins5000K; , in Ban Khonekeo, hasalav-, inBan ( Wat Keophone Savanthanaram Wat Keophone h 8.30am-4.30pm) Exchanges ( % Wat Jom Khao Manilat Wat JomKhao 211 162; h lonelyplanet.com Wat Thadsuvanna Wat Thadsuvanna 8am-10pm) h 8am- Wat ,

NORTHERN LAOS ‚ 173 D2 D1 D2 B4 A6 A6 D2 C2 C2 C3 A1 A1 D2 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 # Centre School Dream To Airport (4km) " 6 11 # D 39 27 15 # " @ 5 " i

19 18 # H

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33 1 g Communication Tower 25 n 16 6 28 00.05miles 0100m o 20 2 # " i 17 h " i 66 66 66 66 66 "

i k I # " @ " i 29 " @ ay " i S 34 # 8 Lao Airlines ...... Luang Say office...... Pedestrian Boat Cross-River Landing...... Mom...... Tonpheung Sǎwngthǎew to Muang & Slowboat Landing...... Slowboat Ticket Booth...... Wangview Tour...... EATING Bar How...... (see 6) Deen Restaurant...... Nut Pop ...... Riverside Restaurant ...... Tavendeng Restaurant...... TRANSPORT Buses to ...... Greenbus to Chiang Mai...... " i

4 h " i 21 # 24 0500m 00.25miles

3 T # 2 # ng 14 kho g y 36 12

a " i n S 35 D2 D1 C2 A1 C1 C1 D1 B1 Th ko C3 C2 B2 C3 D2 C4 B1 C2 D2 D2 D2 D2

e 7 8 9

r " n " e 6 23 " D 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 M v 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 Ri 10 # Bokeo Governor's Office Bokeo Provincial Treasury # # C

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ng Agricultural ykho " Th Sa @ 30 Heuan Lao Guesthouse...... 2 Guesthouse.....Oudomphone Phonetip Guesthouse...... & Guesthouse Phonevichith Restaurant...... Sabaydee Guesthouse...... Thanormsub Guesthouse...... Thaveesinh Hotel...... Wangview Guesthouse ...... SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Fort Carnot...... Gibbon Experience Office ...... Lao Red Cross...... Main Market...... Wat Jom Khao Manilat...... Wat Keophone Savanthanaram...... SLEEPING Arimid Guesthouse...... BAP Guesthouse...... Friendship Guesthouse...... Gateway Villa 1 & Reception...... Gateway Villa 2...... Gateway Villa 3...... 66 LAOS B See Enlargement 3333333 3333333 3333333 3333333 3333333 3333333 3333333 ver Mekong Ri To Speedboat Station (2.3km); # Muang Mom (68km) Thadsuvanna Phakham (2.3km); 9 Golden Triangle (60km); Bus Station (4.5km); Airport (6km); 26 13 Pak Tha (51km); Ban Donchai (67km); D2 A1 C2 C1 D2 D1

Souvannakhomkham (60km);

1 2 3 4 5 6 " i " i To Chiang Rai ‚ To Wat Khonekeo Xaiyaram (400m); Pao Pa (13.5km); Tonpheung (52km); Vieng Phukha (117km); Luang Namtha (178km) " ‚ X

Petrol Station ts 2 Siam Commercial Bank, ATM

#

Luang Sathan Temple

Kasikorn Bank F Vehicle e 32 Boa r y r 2 # #

37

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" 7 P 2 # " 7 " D 38 " i Namkhong Riverside 22 •• Huay Xai & Chiang Khong THE MIDDLE MEKONG 1020 ' # ` Overnight Bus to Bangkok " i

" 7 " 7 # Bus to Thai Post 31 Point Bangkok Office Overnight A Immigration "

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Khong Chiang Bus Area 1129 '

Tuk-Tuks to Pedestrians)...... Laundry...... (see 20) Phongsavanh Bank ...... Tourist Information Office...... Yon Computer ...... BCEL & ATMs...... Lao Development Bank 3) Booth...... (see Exchange (For Immigration Lao Drivers) ...... (For Immigration Lao INFORMATION

HUAY XAI & CHIANG KHONG THAILAND 3 5 2 1 6 4

To Chiang Saen (52km) ‚

lonelyplanet.com

6

6

66

66 66 NORTHERN LAOS ments are zip-lined infromoneof three rustic meals consistingof riceandfouraccompani- (Waterfall) justtwopeople. sleep Well-cooked jungle after 2(Classic)and 4 all.Tree-houses will beyourcompanions too,butthisisthe on thewallsandratsrustlingin ceilings predicament forsolotravellers. Large spiders side-by-side, potentially a sociallyawkward Note thatingeneral twopeoplemustsleep with beddinglaidoutbeneathlarge clothnets. peoplemost of eight thetree-housessleep ural amphitheatres views, withspectacular around 40mabove innat- thegroundandset each feels entirely aloneinthejungle. Often farfromeach othersothat spaced sufficiently That’s inuniquethatched thatare tree-houses the onlywaytoreach youraccommodation. isthezip-liningwhichthe real is highlight is aforgettable sideshowbutinbothvariants just one. Thewaterfall forwhich it’snamed intwodifferentsleep tree-houses instead of of and youget purpose toan addedsense gibbons butthatvariant’slonger hikes give on the pre-dawn trek toTree-house 3,participants Unlessmakinga glimpse. do catch afleeting gibbons ismuch rarer butsomeluckygroups (andisalmostasloud).Actuallyseeing off then oscillates like analienspaceshiptaking like thatstarts arising pennywhistle – anoise chance of hearingthegibbons’bizarre singing onthe those For of extinctinLaos. gibbononcethought vation of theforest that’shometoaspecies long. Part of thepricesupportsconser- leys onincredible ziplines,someover 500m val- acrossintervening hills andswinginghigh soaring treewithinthicklyforested houses chance toplayTarzan; in livingtwo nights thisisanextended nophobia etc.Essentially vertigo, withphysicaldisabilities, arach-those it’s quite inappropriate foryoungchildren or adventures butyoumustbookwayaheadand 2,250,000K) all-inclusive€180,9000Bor org, [email protected]; three-day The THE GIBBONEXPERIENCE vibrant Tucked inthevalleybehindisHuayXai’s siteand thewholesparse isvery overgrown. are theoldbarrackroomroofs fallingoff ing, onestraddlingthegateway, butthetiles Governor’s Twotowers Office. are still stand- 174 Activities THE MIDDLEMEKONG••HuayXai(Hoksay) ‘waterfall trek’ ‘waterfall main market is one of Laos’s mostunforgettable isoneof Laos’s ‘classic experience’ ‘classic experience’ Gibbon Experience . are farlesslikely tohear there’s agood

(www.gibbonx. 40,000/50,000/60,000K) bathroom 40,000/60,000K, with solar/electric hotwater bathroom 40,000/60,000K, with solar/electric ellers signinguptomake thepricesviable. also offered butthere are rarely trav- enough ride aroundtheGoldenTriangle(p 178 ), are (p Souvannakhomkham 178 ), includingaboat ter tobookthemthere. One-day (p Phukha 222 ) soyou’llgenerally dobet- Xai agencies fromVieng actuallystart Most ACTIVITIES OTHER batteries. three days,don’tforget topre-charge camera the ziplines.As there’ll benoelectricityfor on yourbackover hikes somesteep andon youbringmustcarryroom –everything leave mostof yourbaggage intheoffice store- maybe someplayingcards,butotherwise waterbring atorch bottleand (flashlight), tonext doorfor8000K.It’salsoadvisable forusingthezip-lines)are(essential sold fice booked departure, check inatits isn’t alwaysimmediate. Onedaybefore your well butdobepatientascommunication Pre-payment Paypal onlinethrough works especiallyinthedryseason. ally essential, forest ratsbeing attracted. provided strongbox toavoid the isessential tree-house. Keeping anything edibleinthe various additionalsnacksare available ineach kitchens whilecoffee, tea, hotchocolate and wooden floorboards. panels andcheap vinyl thatcovers theold the 1960sfurniture, wall fadedpheasant-print dearing initsdogged refusal tomodernise others. several in central options.Condomsdothetalking ingeneral poorerseem valuethanthe more including theonce-plushMekong Hotel Lao Oddlytheinconvenientstation. outer places kilometresvals forseveral towards thebus and manymore are dotted at sporadicinter- The centraldragispacked withguesthouses Sleeping the Mekong. from 4pminastatelyoldmansionbeside (10,000K)and atraditionalherbalsauna for30,000Kperhour massage Swedish-Lao Phonetip Guesthouse Phonetip HeuanLaoGuesthouse Cross LaoRed aheadisvirtu- Booking aroundsixweeks

( % hill-tribe treks hill-tribe 212 021;

h ( % Tatty en- yetperversely office 8-11am&2-7pm). 211 935; advertised byHuay ( %

211 084;tw/trwithout h ( % lonelyplanet.com 9am-9pm) 211 163;s/d/tr Huay Xai of- Huay Xai tours Gloves offers offers to NORTHERN LAOS 175 211 040; s/d/ 211 055; www. Long coloured Long coloured % 211 252; fan/air-con 211 252; fan/air-con % ( % ( Handy for the slow- Handy ) (Alimit; 020-5590 1871; veg/non-veg 211 037; mains 15,000-35,000K,

a 4.30-10.30pm) Clean and bright, the Clean and bright, the % ) ( -style restaurants near near -style restaurants At first glance this collec- glance At first % ) (

h a This simple timber-walled This simple timber-walled a falang Nut Pop (5000K) as takeaway ad snacks from mok 7am-10.30pm)

o Deen Restaurant Sabaydee Guesthouse Wangview Guesthouse Arimid Guesthouse air-con rooms feel like converted container converted like feel rooms air-con the slowboat pier, that at Phonevichith the slowboat pier, that at Phonevichith pizza 42,000-50,000K; twinkling lights entice you into of cylinders this atmospheric timber deck surrounded The cuisine is just as delightful, by foliage. Lao executed and ranging from perfectly the Mekong-facing Wangview Resort, whose the Mekong-facing onslaught at night.cabins suffer a karaoke Eating Of three views. Old ladies Guesthouse has the best river sticky rice (3000K) full of sell banana leaves and 3. hoc tables around the corner on Rte dar girls. It serves as halal Indian food such with a korma and fruit shakes tofu creamy include offerings Breakfast coconut. hint of and parathas. pancakes largely unadorned – rooms with reliable hot rooms with reliable unadorned – largely seats Reclining wooden on the rear water. chill- a communal of a gem third floor create the view of with a foliage-framed out area The owner speaks French. Mekong. r 500B; wangviewtour.net; ample bathrooms that are wood and provides if sometimes a tad musty due to poor ventila- tion. Don’t confuse this place with a second Wangviewhighly inconvenient Guesthouse Tha turning, or way out west beyond the Pak boxes but the upstairs fan rooms share a great a great share fan rooms the upstairs but boxes – fine if you don’t terrace view little Mekong associated cobweb and large mind the odd spiders. 150,000/180,000K; more bamboo bungalows has thatched tion of than the town’s typical concrete atmosphere However, while comfortable box-hotels. far from stylish and enough, the rooms are handy for the slow- can be a little dingy. It’s speaks French. boat landing and the owner shop-house is a fashion parade for calen- curries 13,000/23,000K, fruit shake/lassi 7000/10,000K; h Sabaydee offers smartly maintained – if maintained smartly – if Sabaydee offers tw/tr 80,000/80,000/90,000/100,000K, with air-con d/tr air-con d/tr with tw/tr 80,000/80,000/90,000/100,000K, 100,000/140,000K; boat landing, this smart new air-conditioned boat landing, this smart new air-conditioned pale polished good useguesthouse of makes 211 % BAP (

) a Airy but func- ) 211 095; r with fan/TV/ 211 502; s/d/tw 211 502; s/d/tw 020-5521 3355; s/d 020-5521 3355; s/d 211 219; s/d/tr/q from 211 219; s/d/tr/q Rooms have the the Rooms have Colourful fabrics, a 211 308; r with fan/air-con ) % % %

( % ( ( ( % 211 083; r with fan/TV/view/ a ( % ( Clean and neat with pol- ) •• Huay Xai (Hoksay) THE MIDDLE MEKONG a Simple, central and clean by and clean by central Simple, Combining three very different, dis- different, very Combining three ) Rooms in this very central hotel are fair are central hotel Rooms in this very ) Phonevichith Guesthouse & Restaurant Oudomphone 2 Hotel Friendship Guesthouse Gateway Villa Hotel Thaveesinh Hotel BAP Guesthouse Thanormsub Guesthouse if well located study in faded 1960s con- if well located walls. with low ceilings and hardboard crete building 3’s the school, opposite Unmarked ai the are buildings, highconnected points here helpful serviceproactively breakfast and free Rooms come with at the stylish central cafe. little ap- good new linens but otherwise have Villa 2. peal, even in boutiquey new Gateway Villa 1 is a dowdy Gateway reception, Above 78,000/96,000K, s/d/tr with air-con 96,000/122,000/143,000K; orate common areas and there’s a rooftop a rooftop and there’s common areas orate room. breakfast and windows that don’t always shut securely. and windows that don’t always shut securely. and ornaments dec- wooden furniture Heavy a 65,000/78,000/90,000, with air-con 105,000/140,000/168,000; Mekong perch and handy proximity to the and handy proximity perch Mekong slowboat landing. ter to the decent rooms, which come with come with to the decent rooms, which ter and optional air-con piping-hot showers The main attraction is the (extra charge). 765; Ban Khonekeo; r 300B; a little charac- lamps add fans and kitschy the back have been recently refreshed. The refreshed. been recently the back have refuses English-speaking owner aggressively paid for. to show rooms until they’re looks lovably old-fashioned from the outside, from the outside, old-fashioned looks lovably rooms at while the appealing wood-panelled ments of local fabric to soften the concrete the concrete local fabric to soften ments of though hot water, Bathrooms have interiors. a little musty. some are 75,000/120,000K; odd- tables a few and tree-slice ished floors, tional beneath a conspicuous blue roof. blue roof. tional beneath a conspicuous air-con 70,000/90,000/120,000K; air-con 70,000/90,000/120,000K; great views and three simple tables at which tables simple at which views and three great to enjoy them. usual aged patches and beds can be creaky and beds can be creaky patches usual aged with is the open roof but the selling point here 45,000/60,000/90,000/125,000K) just beds in boxes but there’s a pleasant road- but there’s boxes just beds in if you to sit upstairs area facing communal can grab a seat. r 50,000/60,000K) are options standards, the cheapest budget lonelyplanet.com air-con 80,000/100,000/130,000/150,000K; air-con 80,000/100,000/130,000/150,000K; sized and clean if chintzy with pink curtains sized and clean if chintzy NORTHERN LAOS h boat, thebusisfarlesssocial,attractive cheaper slightly thantheslow- But although proportion optinstead fortheovernight bus. improving roadsmeanthatanever-increasing memorable descentof theMekong. Today, aboardaboatforthe and jumpedstraight bound travellers have piledintoHuayXai For years, streams of LuangPrabang– foods such asfrogandfriedcrocodile. ing complexfeatures live musicandexotic aimed atThaivisitors, thislarge woodendin- 25,000-80,000K; fruits. produced fromginger, others fromMalacca tles of locallymade‘wines’(20,000K), some a few booksand330mlbot- second-hand ontheotherside,atinyshopsells Attached ment withthenext-doorYonComputer. wi-fiYou canuse ontheterrace byarrange- rice isincludedinmostquoted menuprices. many lip-smackingvegetarian choices andthe isone ofMushrooms withginger andsesame is decorated withmuskets andwinebottles. restaurant How onHuayXai’smainstrip,Bar music weren’t socheesy. ifthe beer It wouldalsobeidealforasunset food,plusWestern breakfasts.Thai andLao to Thailand.Themenuhasawiderange of watch shuttlingtoandfro theferry canoes offers agreat vantage pointfromwhich to 60,000K; Discovery).(try theLao dishestoinventiveVietnamese twistsonpizza 176 &Away There Getting Tavendeng Restaurant BarHow Restaurant Riverside       cial book ahead atoneofthese: cial bookahead But ifyouwantsomethingalittlemore spe- is squarely market. aimedatthebackpacker Laos Most ruralaccommodationinnorthern RETREATS RURAL 6.30am-11pm;       THE MIDDLEMEKONG••HuayXai(Hoksay) BoatLanding Guesthouse Pak Beng Lodge Auberge delaPlainedesJarres NongKiauRiverside Zen Namkhan Muang LaResort h 7am-11pm)

(veg/non-veg meals22,000/24,000K; h W 7am-11pm) ) , p 171 TheMekong terrace here Thefunkiestlittlebar- , p 180 , p 214

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% ( % , p 206 211 064;mains20,000- Predominantly 020-5568 4999;mains , p 219 , p 191 h else asticketselse aren’t numbered. Every dayis ietositonthembefore these, anyone serve toarrive folkschoose atdawntore- Certain number of more comfyairliner-style seats. an agency intown).Someboatsalsohave a ture of 10,000Kforacushion(soldatmany benches forwhich you’ll valuetheexpendi- sit aroundawaitingdeparture. tuk-tuk transfer tothepierandthenhave to simplymeansyouget anoverpricedBeng) a ticket fromatravel agent (150,000KtoPak at8amonthedayofSales start travel. Buying 200,000K, accommodationnotincluded). one day)orLuangPrabang(twodays, booth ticket tickets11am daily.Purchase atthe Slowboats currently departfromHuayXaiat Luang Prabang Slowboats toPak Beng& BOAT and Saturday. Vientiane (895,000K)onTuesday,Thursday 494; of thebusstation. thecitybypass,1.5kmnorthwest hillside off Huay Xai’sairportisoddlyperched ona AIR agreatso isn’tnecessarily time-saver either. and leaves mosttravellers exhausted onarrival the low season fromMay (s/d the lowseason toSeptember in last-minute rUS$458)and twice-weekly (s/d€331/576, inpeakseason times weekly p (see Beng 180 ). Departures are three or four tion attheappealing LuangSayLodge inPak visits enroute accommoda- andanight’s seat fort, apopularifpriceyalternative isthe40- To dothetwo-dayriver journeyinmore com- ‘Luxury’ SlowBoats on such ascenario. agamble. Butitisindeed prefer toarrive justbefore 11am,gambling crammedfull.Sometravellersone hadbeen whentheearlier boatlefthalf-empty second a is provided. thatweobserved, Inonecase simply refuse toget boat aboarduntilasecond thatreallya tactic worksisforlater arrivalsto cram ontoomanypassengers (over 70orso), inthepast,butiftheytryto as theyhadbeen boats weren’t ashorrendously overcrowded different andatthetimeof research theslow- are wooden typicallyuncomfortable ‘Seats’ 8am-3pm) h Luang Say 8am-noon &1-5pmMon-Sat) ( . Packages includemeals,guides, % ( % 211 659) 020-5509 0718;www.luangsay.com; Lao Airlines to Pak (100,000K, Beng lonelyplanet.com fliesto/from ( % 211 026, slowboat NORTHERN LAOS 177 but where where (Km 123), (Rte 3, Km 137.7)

. That’s 14km on the Thailand 0066 5365 5732; Thailand 0066 5365 5732; Ban Sod rents small, relatively small, relatively rents has services to Chiang % (p 174 ) is from the tiny 174 (p (

211 055; www.wangviewtour.net; 211 055; www.wangviewtour.net; Ban Toup Ban Donchai % to Pak Tha depart from a small from a small Tha depart to Pak ( to Tonpheung (30,000K) leave (30,000K) leave to Tonpheung ew ǎ Greenbus ew ǎ wngth Gibbon Experience ǎ 8am-noon & 1.30-5pm) Tuk-tuks line up on the main road just 50m Tuk-tuks line up on the main road On the Thai side, tuk-tuks wait just above S from as- Thai side, busesOn the leave wngth ǎ ments, it is possible to be met or dropped-off ments, it is possible to be met or dropped-off journey at Ban two hours’ saving Donchai, when connecting to/from Luang Namtha. mean needing to However, that will likely the only accom- sleep where at Donchai, rustic three-room modation is an extremely close to Chiang Khong’s various bus offices. 30B between the two points. Pay XAI AROUND HUAY North of Huay Xai from Huay 3 was totallyIn 2008, Rte rebuilt Xai (Km 199 to 206) to Luang Namtha via ). Nonetheless 222 Vieng Phukha (Km 87, p degraded for a become heavily it has already 60km section south of a are which and after good asphalt returns views. Access to ridge-top layered series of the of Hmong village mud road from advance arrange- explicit made very have (493B to 739B, 10 hours) from nearby at 3pm (493B to 739B, 10 hours) and 3.30pm. GETTING AROUND Wangview Tour day 150/250B). new motorcycles (per half/full and older motor- Bicycles (per day 30,000K) Hotel. from the Thaveesinh available are bikes 15,000K beyond Lao immigration charging to the speedboat or slow boat land- per person ings and 20,000K to the airport or bus station. is one way so don’t panic if The road here they seem to head off in the ‘wrong’ direction. the immigration post and beside a market station directly above the speedboat landing. above station directly S very beside the main market, when full from Mom. continuing to Muang occasionally Chiang around 2.5km south of offices sorted Khong’s post. To Chiang Thai immigration Railocal services (65B, 2¼ hours) leave 6am to 5pm in either hourly on the hour from direction. www.greenbusthailand.com) (272B) and 11.40am (211B). at 6am, 9am Mai for Bangkok busesSeveral leave overnight h don’t just show up – you’re usually expected usually expected don’t just show up – you’re and prepaid to start from Huay Xai. If you’ve to Luang to Luang 211 457; Rte 3, 200m beyond ) zip thrillingly but ) zip thrillingly but longboat trip %

( EW Ǎ •• Around Huay Xai THE MIDDLE MEKONG héua wái WNGTH Ǎ is directly beneath Wat Thadsuvanna Wat Thadsuvanna beneath is directly speedboat landing With some patience a small group could a small group patience With some Travel agency minibuses agency to Luang Namtha Travel For the two-day For the two-day leave from central Huay Xai at around 9am from central Huay Xai at around 9am leave at Namtha’s inconven- (400B) but still arrive iently out-of-town bus station. Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday only. Tuesday, Thursday (also spelt Xienghuong or Xianghouang; operates currently 150,000K, 10 hours) 12.30pm, or you could use China-bound serv-12.30pm, or you could use China-bound seven (110,000K, ices: the 8.30am to Mengla runs daily; the 7.30am to hours) service. For Luang Namtha (55,000K, 4½ at 9am and additional buses leave hours) bus is a VIP service (135,000K) that includes a little but cer- seats and blankets that recline ideal for sleeping. For Udomxai tainly aren’t also an 8.30am there’s (80,000K, nine hours) 22 to 30 hours). The 5pm Luang Prabang The 5pm Luang Prabang 22 to 30 hours). ally marked ‘Borkeo’. The bus station is 5km ‘Borkeo’. ally marked town. Buses to Luang Prabang (14 to east of via Luang Namtha and Udomxai 17 hours) depart at 9am, 11.30am, 1pm and 5pm. The 11.30am continues to Vientiane (230,000K, BUS & S usu- that Huay Xai bound busesNote are from Ban Khon Kham you’ll need to organise onward boats to Na Lae. from the speedboat landing in which casefrom the speedboat landing in which – just 150,000K per person boatmen charge discussed directly with a boatman (something with a boatman discussed directly Lao).that’s tough spoken without some- It’s times possible to find a longboat bound for dawn after ) leaving 223 Ban Khon Kham (p charters cost around 6000B/US$200 if or- charters ganised about 1,300,000K when by agencies, Namtha (or to Na Lae in the dry season), cluding lunch stop) typically departing around cluding lunch ) it’s 227 8am. For speedboats to Xieng Kok (p ). 178 to start from Muang Mom (p cheaper 160,000/960,000K, three hours) and Luang hours) 160,000/960,000K, three sevenPrabang (360,000/2,040,000K, in- hours speedboats ( The Km 202) Speedboats & Longboats Speedboats charter their own slowboat from around from around their own slowboat charter US$700 (highly negotiable). €224/366). There’s no service no There’s €224/366). or at all in June low. is too the Mekong when lonelyplanet.com dangerously and with great physical dis- great and with dangerously Beng (per person/boat comfort to Pak Phakham, 3km south of town. Six-passenger Phakham, 3km south of NORTHERN LAOS palling muddy whenwet,especially theshort infuriatingly rutted, dustywhen dryandap- accessroadsare Sadly Souvannakhomkham’s Thai sideshimmers alarger goldenBuddha. visible acrosstheMekongdistantly onthe towering flametrees isquietlymagical.And amid the site’s bestknownicon.Thesetting seated Fork leftjustbefore arrivingatthe7.2m-high scriptsign. all-Lao the ‘900’onanotherwise whenyouspot from Tonpheung,turnright Hanjin. there Get byheading8kmsouthwest DonThatandBan Ban the lanebetween off The greatest concentrationof sites lies900m ofabout anexpanse almost-flat maizefields. of alldotted widely crumblingBuddhastatues brick-piles thatwere oncestupasplusacouple are Todayallyou’llsee afew Sai Setthathirat. site Xangking refounded inthe1560sbyLan ruins of In awidebendof theMekong are thescattered SOUVANNAKHOMKHAM garden. air-con 200/500B; Chalernsup Guesthouse forMuangMom(21km),passing turn right Or south) toheadforSouvannakhomkham. southwest doglegthrough to aT-junction. Turnleftandmake awest- whilepot-holedoldRteright, 3continues1km At Km49,an(asyetunfinished)bypassforks TONPHEUNG (Km 13).There’s awhite ongreen signinLao. of thevery conspicuousVocationalSchool onfootfromapoint500mwest for 20seconds Mekong’s rockypassage. Tofindit,descend bougainvillea onaledge overlooking the beneathfrondsofcient Buddharock,set Pretty PA PAO roadworks are complete. painfully dustyunpaved –atleastuntil affair the riverside andbecomesaflat,widebut the Mekong to some curiositiesasitapproximately follows of HuayXaiisinitiallywellpaved andoffers While notdramaticallybeautiful,Rte 3west West ofHuayXai overlooking thestream. plankfloorswith rough andashared terrace guesthouse 178 THE MIDDLEMEKONG••AroundHuayXai brick Buddha brick Pao Pa Souvannakhomkham (r 30,000K)

isahaphazardlyre-gilded an- a Nam Keung ) set inadustyMekong-front set attached tothevillage attached shop , avery erodedfigure that’s

( % (Km 22) 020-5579 0555;rwithfan/

Tonpheung , anancientcity . Thenitleaves (2.5km wishing to take a speedboat (perperson/boatwishing totake aspeedboat conspicuously wealthyvillage withacolour- bumpy pumpkinbefore Rte avenue 3’sfairytale turnsbackintoa MOM MUANG border withoutprearranged authorisation. awaitbutforeignersspeedboats can’tcrossthe bank past fromtheThaiside,whileonLao thetwo.bank between potter Boatcruises sand with Myanmarstickingalongnosed faceoff, Triangle, where ThailandandLaos You’ve arrived atthefamousGoldenBen. domeandaminiBig Disneyesque fantasy ends after 600m attheMekong besideanother 2.5km thissurreal stripturnsleftanddead- one daytocover almost100sqkm.After project stillunderconstructionbutplanned Vegas,real Las acasinoandentertainment ingested sur- ahappypizza. ThisisLaos’s’ charioteers rear besideyou.No,youhaven’t cleaners. Goldendomesandpseudo-classical trees andimmaculately sweptbyteams of two-coloured paved avenue, linedwithpalm formation. Suddenlyyou’re glidingalonga anastonishingtrans- 3 abruptlyundergoes Around 5kmnorthof Tonpheung,dustyRte TRIANGLE GOLDEN of NamKeung). at anunmarked junctionaround15kmwest DonThat(emergingcut backtoRte 3viaBan is thatany passingboatmust stopandhave by nomeansassured, butan advantage here or LuangNamtha (p 216 ). Finding arideis (p ride uptheNamTha towardsNaLae 222 ) are usuallyhopingtoscore acheap longboat Mekong ifunremarkable tothispleasant port The very rare travellers whoventure downthe ¯¾¡ê¾ THA PAK East ofHuayXai beige them. mansioncontaining you’d imaginefromthegrandcream-and- (tw 200B) along theriverfront isanunlabelled the mainwat.Around300mfurthersouth jettyistuckedconspicuous speedboat behind typically January toMay. MuangMom’sin- route isimpossiblewhenriver are levels low, (p 227 ). There’s schedule andthe nocertain 900/3500K) uptheMekong toXiengKok (Km 68) ful newwat.Theroadendsat ,

which isof interest mainlyforthose whose roomsare whose farmore basicthan Ban Siboun lonelyplanet.com Muang Mom Muang (Km58) guesthouse , a

NORTHERN LAOS

179 (www. 400 m (153km)

’s east- Nam Beng Nam To Udomxai m 0.2 miles ǐ s 16 17 18 19 20 17 D ; and archaic ; and archaic can arrange can arrange Elephant Camp Clinic Post Office tourist office Kaen (Pak Nguey) Petrol Station offers rides and bath- offers Bypass Road under construction to Pak . The latter dates back dates . The latter 0 0 Wat Khok Kho Searo...... (see 6) Boat Ticket Office...... Bus Station...... A1 Cross-river Motor-canoe.. D1 Slowboat Landing...... A1 Speedboat Landing...... A1 A2 DRINKING TRANSPORT 7am-noon & 2-9pm) h 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 Wat Sin Jong Jaeng 071-254 130; from US$47) Hydroelectric power now lights town the money at dismal Guesthouses can change Across the Mekong the Across the Mekong 5 Luang Prabang by slowboat, or take a break break a or take slowboat, Prabang by Luang Prabang on Huay Xai–Luang for lunch here % Sights & Activities little and althoughto the early colonial period its Beng Lodge with Pak phants by arrangement seemsfor whose guests the project mostly if you don’t plan to play with aimed. Even is to cross a pleasantpachyderms, excursion Overlooking the Mekong are two monasteries: two monasteries: are Overlooking the Mekong modern relatively an old, repainted, been entirely have eaves on the faded mural remains very early an representing big nose, presumably European visitor. ( time observations ele- former working of speedboats. The modest oudomxay.info; the town. maps of guides and has there’s day. Well, at least when a 24 hours Some days in the dry season in the dam. water and at power cuts occur to June) (February times it’s worth paying a little extra for such a guesthouse with a generator. Thai baht no bank nor ATM. but there’s rates cafes no internet are widely used. There are at the Luang Say (yet) but if you buy a drink Beng is free. the wi-fi lodges or Pak and you’ll spot a Look carefully ern exterior. and with hat, umbrella moustachioed figure Donevilasak Guesthouse..... B1 Monsavan Guesthouse...... B1 Pak Beng Guesthouse...... A1 Pak Beng Lodge...... A1 Santisouk Guesthouse...... A1 Bounmee Guesthouse...... Hashan...... (see 15) A1 Khopchaideu...... Ounhuan...... A1 Salika...... B1 Sivilai...... A1 B1 SLEEPING EATING 3 6 . It has . It has Souphany BC To Pak Ou (135km); Luang Prabang (160km) 4 13 15 1 2 3 4 5 7 8 14 16 20 12 1 rectangle behind. A simple rectangle Beng THE MIDDLE MEKONG •• Pak 020-5598 3469; r 50,000K) run occasionally to Huay Xai. run occasionally to Huay 19 10 ew % ( 9 ǎ 11 A

petang MekongRiver Tourist Office...... A1 Elephant Camp...... A2 Market...... B1 Wat Khok Kho...... B2 Wat Sin Jong Jaeng...... C2 INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES ¤ È 18

wngth ǎ 084 / pop 20,000 S

Pak Tha’s main town area is across the across the is Tha’s main town area Pak 2 PAK BENG 2 1 To Huay Xai (138km) To Luang Say Lodge (700m); Pak Kaen (Pak Nguey) To Hmong Hamlet ist potential and most travellers simply stop and most travellers ist potential to Huay Xai or when en route one night here levels drop to reveal jagged waterside rocks. waterside jagged levels drop to reveal its tour- little of However, the town makes above a steep-sided stretch of the Mekong. the Mekong. of a steep-sided stretch above par- views are river The numerous pretty ticularly striking when dry-season water % strip-town straggles This winding, one-street PAK PAK BENG ¯¾¡Á® The daily Pak Beng–Huay Xai slowboats stop The daily Pak the boatmen’s briefly at the landing beneath office. restaurant is attached and Boan Mee speaks speaks and Boan Mee is attached restaurant some English. and there are sunset views across the Mekong sunset the Mekong views across are and there from the cramped rooms and hard mattresses but the mattresses cramped rooms and hard squat is clean enough bucket-flush shared only formal accommodation, the only formal accommodation, Guesthouse find the market. Where that road peters out, out, that road peters Where find the market. Tha’s lane to the left to find Pak the last take road. After crossing the high concrete bridge, bridge, the high crossing road. After concrete road right to unpaved major the first take deep-cut of- Nam Tha from the boatmen’s close 2km by as the crow flies but fice, very ing there speaks great French but minimal French great speaks ing there English. relevant papers stamped Tong at the Phone papers relevant Officer office. boatmen’s Dam work- Tong lonelyplanet.com NORTHERN LAOS rolled towels on comfy new beds, sash cur-rolled towelsoncomfynewbeds,sash upmarket complex occupiesagarden slope com; s/d/stefromUS$72/87/118; exchange ispossibleatpoorrates. with hotwater, wallsare though thin.Money tive andtherelatively smart newroomscome polished woodfloors andexterior are attrac- and thegenerator isreliable duringblackouts. minimal andtoiletsburpbutshowers are hot ceilinged roomsandbox-spring beds.Decoris Neat, cleanandcentralwithfair-sized, high- privatethe otherwise-good bathrooms. in sized andmodernalbeitwithalittlestaining bathroom (hotwater). Theothers are decent withveryhouse basicbox roomssharing a has three buildings.Oneisadowdyoldtimber bathroom 200/400B) guests tocontemplate theMekong. ceilings. Asimpleshared-view platformallows trastingly basicwithhardbedsandhardboard the price. Rooms intheoldbuildingare con- Phetokxai Hotel opposite yetcostathirdof are better thantheshamelessly overpriced a goodthrough-current of air. rooms These anddouble-doorarrangementstains toallow 200/400B) options. worth comparingseveral similar optionswithinfive minutes’ walkit’s Withsixteenrelativelywhen demandishigh. further pricescanrise ity isworking),though get adecentroomwithhotshower(ifelectric- tresses andshared facilities.For300Byoucan 150B, generally tinyroomswithhardmat- boats,offeringmeet cheap digsfromaround Touts standards. Prices are byruralLao high Sleeping of Pak Beng. attractive around10kmnorth stretch survives road have deforested brutally been butone an outrageous 40,000Kperhour). (individualsaroundthe guesthouse find amotorbike forrent –tryaskingatyour and there are villages toexplore ifyoucan tion of localcaves andwaterfalls inthedistrict the river toatiny,authentic about ten awayfrom minutes diagonally right the river (motor-canoe 5000K)thenwalkfor 180 a Bn Lodge Beng Pak MonsavanGuesthouse Pak BengGuesthouse SantisoukGuesthouse Most of thehillsidesalongUdomxai Donevilasak Guesthouse Donevilasak The touristoffice suggests atypicalselec- THE MIDDLEMEKONG••Pak Beng Inthenewbuilding,expectstylishly The last guesthouse on the strip onthestrip Thelastguesthouse

( % 212 304;www.pakbenglodge. (

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% ( % %

( % 212 619;r400-500B) 020-5578 1797;rold/new W 020-5606 1428;r300B) 212 315; r without/with 212 315;rwithout/with Hmong hamlet ) Thisenticing market The . ask

styled woodenecolodge isalmostentirely are more accomplished.Mosteateries open ing anddecorbutthecurriesat restaurant lanterns make colourful 8000K).Bynight, hour (Beerlao Salika Mekong viewlike the Western fare. Byday,pickonewithagood Thaiand Lao, 10,000-25,000K) forstandard charge approximately prices(mains thesame ties; mostplaceshave longmenusandall There's astringof stomach-filling possibili- Eating &Drinking fall substantially. when lowwaters stoptheboat,roomprices boat (p 177 isincluded.But ), forwhom astay forguestsontheLuangSayriver-reserved W com; perpersonhalfboardlow/highseasonUS$72/119; fromUS$10. in-room massage out intheindulgent upperlounge ortake an crown asmallhillockdirectly behind.Chill whitewashed pillars tilesthat andterracotta impress, asymphonyof shutters, rosewood it’s themagnificentdeluxe suites thatreally bamboo deckchairs onprivate balconiesbut views. Thecheaper ‘superior’roomsfeature above theMekong where allroomshave river request astopatPak Kaen (Pak Nguey) then nine hours) departs 8am.ForMuangNgeun, The slowboatforHuay Xai(100,000K,around sible atPak ThaandSuang(forHongsa). hours)around eight withrequest stopspos- 9amand 10am(100,000K, departs between two hours). a 3pm (35,000K, fourhours) at9amandnoon plus edge of townwithdepartures toUdomxai tiny The &Away There Getting cost onlyUS$3. ofwith asundowner,andglasses boxed wine restaurant isidealforenjoyingMekong views has occasionaldancing. beer. tofinda alittleeven tosearch need might stop cookingaround9pmandby10pmyou astake-away boatlunches.sell Mostkitchens around 7amandmake to 15,000Ksandwiches The The LuangSayLodge’s splendidbar- un Sy Lodge Say Luang ) In season this delightful traditionally thisdelightful Inseason or Searo s downriver slowboat downriver ǎ Sivilai wngth bus station , aone-roomlaser-lit nightspot, Hashan . Thelatter offers a 6pm happy ǎ Ounhuan ew

( alsohasappealinglight- % toMuangHoun(20,000K, isatthenorthernmost 212 296;www.mekongcruises. Bounmee Guesthouse afavourite. Indian toLuangPrabang lonelyplanet.com Khopchaideu Khopchaideu , NORTHERN LAOS 181 Post Office 200 m 0.1 miles Sainyabuli (90km); Chomphet (107km) ) The old block To Tha Suang (25km); Hotel 020-5587 7316; r old/ a Phonethavong %

Jumbo ( 020-5685 6488; www.lotus Guesthouse Brazil-born German Brazil-born ) 211 791; r without bathroom (returning by tuk-tuk). (returning % ( 0 0 i

% Villa Sisouphanh (

Bus Stand Restaurant Saylomyen Lao Bank Develpoment Rooms are lacklustre but the lo- lacklustre Rooms are ὈὈ ὈὈ ) Market Ban Viengkeo Guesthouse Souphaphone a (Lotus) Café Nong Bua Daeng Given a day’s notice some Hongsa guest- Given Jumbo Guesthouse Villa Sisouphanh Souphaphone Guesthouse HONGSA To Wat Simungkhun (1km); To Wat Simungkhun Muang Ngeun (40km) Ban Viengkeo (5km); Hongsa’s best deal with new beds, a shared Hongsa’s best deal with new beds, a shared the balcony and a handy location opposite the bus stand. bank, one block south of elephant.com; r 80,000K; into travellers anthropologist Monica invites SLEEPING & EATING ) Ban 182 (seeDuring the elephant festival p cafes makeshift sprouts a rash of Viengkeo At other and ample homestays for all comers. times, central Hongsa has all the accommoda- tion and restaurants. 40,000K, d/tr with bathroom 60,000/80,000K, r with air-con 100,000K; the bus stand, opposite cation is conveniently (per to rent available bicycles are a couple of day 20,000K) and English-speaking Tuny can a day elephant activities given help arrange or two’s warning. new/air-con 50,000/70,000/100,000K; is slightly musty but the new one is marginally hole ‘leading to the end of the world’. It’s 1km of hole ‘leading to the end then towards Muang Ngeun the centre west of bridge. river the first 100m north after houses 5km elephant rides across can organise rice paddies and watermelon a wide valley of fields to Lü log-and-timber Tai Viengkeo’s of Many looms beneath the high weavers’ homes have major is the area’s and the village floors stilted for working elephants. centre shows shows ) is fash- ew ǎ (20,000K, 70 (Wat Nyai). ew wngth ǎ ǎ s hang song pa hang wngth sits on an oddly raised here is the nearest bank is the nearest here ǎ s m ǐ s Wat Simungkhun •• Tha Suang THE MIDDLE MEKONG take around three hours to either hours around three take

074 / pop 6000 The most characterful of Hongsa’s several of The most characterful

Speedboats ¤¦¾ Ü up. You could alternatively take a speedboattake could alternatively up. You or tuk-tuk (120,000K person) (50,000K per Kaen to Pak (5000K) ferry river plus charter) stone platform that allegedly covers a large a large covers stone platform that allegedly ioned in attractive naive style while the ar- style while the naive ioned in attractive muralled chaic, monasteries is monasteries ( Its initiation pavilion Lao Development Bank The centre is a grid of newer constructions is a grid of The centre are edges but the town’s stream-ribboned rice fields. The by beautiful layered backed baht, US$ to the Thai border and exchanges and euros. a good journey break between Luang Prabang a good journey break and Nan (Thailand, via Muang Ngeun). % Hongsa makes Especially for elephant-lovers, HONGSA ¹ to come in. There’s no through trafficto come in. There’s whatso- you Should ever, so don’t count on hitching. building on unmarked stranded, the first get the boat is an ex- off the right as you arrive basic two-room guesthouse without tremely light bulbs. around 4pm for the boat from Luang Prabang minutes). However, if less than 10 people However, 10 people if less than minutes). Beng you the morning boat from Pak off get (200,000K) or wait till to charter might have Mekong jetty for Hongsa. Slowboats are met are Slowboats jetty for Hongsa. Mekong by Hongsa-bound This scattering of homes is simply the is simply the homes of This scattering pop 40 to cross two planks and climb a steepto cross two planks and sand- town. Accessing the road into bank to reach less awkward. the slowboat landing is THA SUANG spent, as when river levels are low you’ll need levels are spent, as when river boys will generally offer to carry your bags for to carry your bags for offer boys will generally If your some bargaining). about 5000K (after money well prove unwieldy this can bags are six passengers (dangerous and highly un- (dangerous six passengers comfortable). by speedboat, Arriving local Luang Prabang or Huay Xai, costing 170,000K Luang Prabang or Huay quota of assuming a crushed-full per person the dock area). and the port manager tries to charge hitch- tries to charge manager and the port (so walk away from a hefty commission hikers then attempt to hitch, but traffic sparse hitch, to very is then attempt hope that the connecting the connecting hope that lonelyplanet.com NORTHERN LAOS 250,000K; L-shaped rankof haphazardlymaintained tom proves an8am pickuprunsto sufficient has piledaboard(usually before 9am).Ifcus- hours) of assoona decentquota guests four hours) andMuang Ngeun (40,000K,1¼ vehicles departingforSainyabuli (80,000K, side themarket opensaround7.30amwith transport The THERE &AWAYGETTING minimal spoken English. but neitherhave written menusandthere’s thatched pavilions fishponds perched between 9pm) Bua Daeng(Lotus)Café area ispleasant. of rattan-chairseating butoutside,thecommunal central Hongsa dermine itsreputation asthebestoptionin paintandsplatteredpeeling vinylfloors un- rooms aroundadustycarpark.Wallcracks, suite roomsbut lesscharacter. 2hasnewen- managed JumboGuesthouse able withaday’snotice. Nextdoor,separately local informationandelephantridesare avail- It’s thebestplaceintownforcomprehensive formeals,breakfastsubstantial) tea. andeven group dinners butdocheck costs(sometimes viting. Acommunityfeeling isfostered by shared but thefourroomsare tidyandin- a family-stylehomewhere bathroomsare 182 Phonethavong Hotel Phonethavong A blockwest of JumboGuesthouse, help touristschoosewell-managedelephantcamps,asnotallare equal. Luang PrabangandPak Beng. Elefantasia’swebsite offers various‘Readbefore youride’tipsto retired or‘unemployed’elephantshave foundalternative employmentintourism,notablyaround Hongsa), butitmighteventually findapermanenthomeinthelatter. Meanwhile,numerous past yearsthevenue hasrotated annuallybetweenPak Lai,SainyabuliandBanViengkeo (near music, theatre demonstrations. andmanyabeertent In aswellelephantparadesandskills within 50yearsat2010rates, accordingto elephants dying15timesmore often thanthey’re toextinct born,thedomesticelephantislikely elephants have theenergy maternity forromancenorthetimeatwo-year leave. WithLao risks. butasaresult, Toensure few working aprofit,ownersneedtheiranimalstokeep working lifetime. ofvillagerswhoshare Elephantsare profits,costsand generallyownedbyaconsortium toamarriageandcanlast (handler)whoserelationship with theanimalisakin by amahout lectively without theclear-felling required access. fortractor Elephantsare trainedandworked have longbeenamainstayofthelogging industry,allowingtree trunkstobedraggedoutse- statistics accurately record howmanyremain. elephants EspeciallyinSainyabuliprovince, working Laos wasoriginally knownasLanXang, thelandofamillionelephants,yetcuriouslynorecent A-GOGO ELEPHANTS Festival plans foranelephantnurseryandhospitalinSainyabuli.Italsoorganises thepopular and THE MIDDLE MEKONG •• Muang Ngeun THE MIDDLEMEKONG••Muang a Saylomyen Restaurant Saylomyen Restaurant

(http://festival.elefantasia.org; admissionfree; ) Thismotel-style placehasan ticket office ticket (mains 12,000-25,000K;

( %

( % 211 785;r150,000- 020-5558 711) are attractive h Nong 8am- be- ElefantAsia h collection of predominantly Tai Lüvillages This very quietborder‘town’isinfactadiffuse À´ Luang Prabang–boundslowboat. minutes) arrivingintimetoconnectwiththe Or head 300m eastfrom beside theschool from which there are lovely views. sunset Keodonkhun west, 700moff themainroad,through behind. Forbucolic scenery,followtheriver tive offerings inniches of thelittlestupa weather-worn woodedBuddhasleftasvo- pillarsold rosewood inside. Noticethetiny, shingles forroof rough-hewn tilesanduses new concrete bridge, its above themodest NamYang river besidea Muang Ngeun’s numeroustemples. Perched Yeun small, new Nan roadtofindthesparse centre arounda border post,head1kmnorthof theHongsa– to/from Thailand.Around2.5kmeastof the if spread-out placetoexplore ifyou’re enroute worth aspecialvisitbutmakes avery pleasant interspersed bypatches of rice-paddy.It’snot governmental buildingstofind baht–kip exchange. There’s nobank. MAG NGEUN MUANG s Prabang (120,000K,five hours) andan8am Chomphet, acrosstheMekong fromLuang ǎ mid-Feb) Continue 1.5kmfurthernorthpastafew Û º¤À¤ wngth (Ban Luang),themostappealingof(Ban

Ø $ (www.elefantasia.org) , a vast two-day jamboree, avasttwo-day featuring ǎ ew market toanundistinguished sub-wat runstoThaSuang(20,000K,70 where traders canorganise s , whichisbehind ǐ m hasoldwooden lonelyplanet.com Elephant Wat SiBoun Ban NORTHERN LAOS 183 8am-9pm) h . That’s best seen. That’s best by Tat Jao Tat 030-518 0095; Sayaboury_ptd@tour (Internet per hr 6000K; 8-11am & 1-5pm Mon-Fri) % 8.30-11am & 2-4pm Mon-Fri) Good free ( h ( h Ù 8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) Changes money, ATM. ì Þ h ( 074 / pop 17,000 074 / pop 17,000 A speedboat (800,000K for six people) A speedboat (800,000K for six people) Information city maps, English-speaking staff and plans to organise trekking of bikes tours and rental and motorcycles. ismlaos.org; ismlaos.org; Post Office Computer Ticky Sights rendered are spots along the riverside Many especially idyllic thanks to the dramatic ridge are surprising for their scale but hardly an surprising for their scale are attraction. Starting around the tourist office and continuing south you’ll find an increas- or part- wooden attractive ing proportion of languid settings some with timber structures, Overall palm trees. it’s a pleas- among arching place untouristed ant, friendly and entirely to grow consider- whose popularity is likely and the paved ably once connecting roads are planned Elephant Sanctuary is developed. For text. seethe elephant festival the boxed Tourist Office BCEL venture southeast where the Mekong is at its Mekong the southeast where venture sank steamer there wildest. In 1909 a French the Lao of royal crown while carrying much exhibition. They for a Paris jewels en route never recovered. were SAINYABULI (XAIGNABOURI) ħ¨½® % Laos’sOne of capitals’, ‘elephant Sainyabuli (variously spelt Xaignabouri, Xayaboury, Sayabouli and Sayabouri) is a prosperous to the east by an attractive town backed a self- Making ridges. high forested of range to look urban, central conscious attempt avenues overspaced Sainyabuli consists of buildings that and showy new administrative forest and brings you to a little wooden foot- to a little wooden brings you and forest emerges that This crosses a stream bridge. image from beneath a Buddha 100m upstream a bearded the statue featuring of and tiny cave the stream a shady picnic area ascetic. Across 20m- a cliff forming the pretty, flows on over called high waterfall further then descend- minutes walking three albeit on danger- the Mekong, ing towards wooden stairs. ously rotten nearly hour versus an Luang Prabang in barely But public boats rarely by bus. hours three could whisk you between Tha Deua and could whisk you between Tha Deua and

ew ǎ here here 020-245 Pak KaenPak Deuanpen wngth is mostly % ( ǎ s shows signs Wat Ban Khon ringed by shaggy shaggy by ringed Wong Chaeng Kaew

, 020-214 2826; Nan-Hongsa . Until the Mekong . Until the Mekong % ( is by motorised canoe Wat Donsai Prabang to Sainyabuli •• Luang THE MIDDLE MEKONG is a weaving centre sporting a centre is a weaving ‘Passenger Car‘Passenger Station’ Pak KhonPak beside the market, beside the market, 020-5523 2337; r 50,000K) % Tha Deua is a line of ten reasonable bunga- reasonable ten is a line of ( (r without/with TV 50,000/60,000K) , a one-horse, two-guesthouse, a one-horse, town.

Ban Khon

Around 1.3km further north up the main north up the further Around 1.3km

From the southwest corner of Tha Deua From the southwest corner of From a tiny Phouxay Guesthouse Almost all of the eight the guesthouses all of Almost offer for pedestrians (5000K) and motorcycles for pedestrians (5000K) and motorcycles Number 2 Sawmill, S-bends into attractive into attractive Number 2 Sawmill, S-bends village, a pleasant, walk passes 15-minute village, (20,000K); by tug-ferry for vehicles and pas- for vehicles (20,000K); by tug-ferry (included in your bus ticket). sengers village of of village shacks called completion May is built (scheduled Bridge Sainyabuli-side 2013), crossing to the bigger Thereafter the road crosses a fertile former the road crosses a fertile Thereafter moun- with bamboo-fuzzed ringed lake-bed to the Then it descends abruptly tain spikes. snack at a minuscule settlement of Mekong nic crescendo during the long descent into during the nic crescendo Muang Nan backed by towering horizons of eccentric- by towering horizons of backed a particular sce- shaped mountains reaching (35,000K, one hour) at around 7.30am and slow- 2pm, arriving in time for the Mekong Beng. boats to Huay Xai and Pak Luang south of 13 at Km 362, ie 43km off Rte Prabang. Landscapes emerald rice fields are of LUANG PRABANG TO SAINYABULI LUANG 4 branches but painfully dusty, Rte Attractive 0145, 020-244 4130) depart- run to Hongsa 1½ hours) (40,000K, ing between 2pm and 4pm, and to towards the border post. Thailand (ie 1.8km from the market). Another the market). Thailand (ie 1.8km from west further options lie a kilometre trio of 800m west of the main junction towards the main junction towards 800m west of has a quaint little open-sided drinking pavilion.has a quaint little open-sided built on stilts above a gloopy green fishpond and a gloopy green built on stilts above squat toilet, water heater). heater). squat toilet, water Guesthouse similar prices and room standards (bucket-flush monastery but a total rebuild in 2009 has left in total but a monastery rebuild appeal. great it without any contemporary Tai Lü style. Lü style. Tai contemporary most important Ngeun’s Muang is considered neat line of close-packed, timber-top homes in timber-top close-packed, neat line of to find prettier prettier to find trees. ancient road, lonelyplanet.com lows sat on a slight rise with pleasant views, Rd; r 50,000K) Guesthouse of wear but is handily just 150m south of the south of wear but is handily just 150m of 400m further south, Around market. NORTHERN LAOS English explanations. Around1.5kmdue views across town. the west, localmartyrs are commemorated by mission free; central unusual diamond-shapedstupa,and more clude palm-framed February full moon. month)leadinguptotheof thethirdLao placated inthe sociated with covers amysterious ‘hole’traditionallyas- style reminiscent of Matisse. Thisbuilding murals includinganti-adultery scenesina 14th-century. The‘new’ tiny original wheresetting thebare-brick ruinsof the and reclining garden Buddhainadelightful monastery. Itsportsalopsided WatSibounheuang Heung. Onesuch viewpointistucked behind of 184 King onanoldertemple site. To Anousavali(800m) Luang Prabang(109km) Hongsa (90km); Tha Deua(25km); To MainBusStation(2.5km); 1 3 2 SAINYABULI (XAIGNABOURI) Other attractive Buddhistcomplexes in- Pak Kimin banal,one-room The sweetly Anousavali Stupa THE MIDDLE MEKONG •• Sainyabuli (Xaignabouri) THE MIDDLEMEKONG••Sainyabuli(Xaignabouri) Wat Sisavangvong h AC 9 reflected inthewaters of theNam 8.30-11am &2-4pmMon-Fri) 17 s sinkhone 12

ǐ

Phaveth Festival Phaveth m Runway 10 5 , thetown’smostevocative Airport are reckoned tobeearly 18 15 atopagentle withwide rise 1 11 2 Wat Phaphoun Wat Phaphoun 4 Nam TienReservoir-Lake&TieneRestaurant(6km);GolfCourse spirit-ghosts whoare spirit-ghosts 8 13 , reportedly builtby Administration s Provincial Building Lao ElephantSanctuaryandBreedingCentre;PakLai(145km) ǐ m 6

3 iscovered in Heung Nam (13th-15thday 16 museum gilded stupa gilded B To SouthernBusStation(4km); with an hasno 7 (ad-

14 6666; perround50,000K,clubrental 100,000K) 13km southof Heukeng townnearBan sur- area around is beingdeveloped conservation construction forovernight visitors whomay text). Bungalows andadormitoryare under theboxed and breedingpital program(see elefantasia.org) toanew reservoir ride shouldbewhiskingvisitors across the by arrangement. By2011,a10-minute boat attractive nine-hole overlap. Directly rizon where and woodedslopestowardsawestern ho- offering viewsacrossemeraldricepaddies restaurant here isperched above thedam, door activitiesare slatedin2011.A tostart reservoir-lake drivesetting, 9kmsouthwesttothe To fullyappreciate thecharm of Sainyabuli’s TIEN NAM Ask thetouristoffice formore information. pathwaywillallowforguidedwalks. botanical rounded byrelatively forest. A well-preserved Luang Prabang(104km) To ThaDeua(23km); A medicinalherbal incorporatingan elephanthos- where andotherout- canoeing h ea...... A1 ThaDeua...... A3 Tuktuks toBusStations&S†wngth†ewfor Air TicketOffice...... TRANSPORT B1 A1 Saynamhung Restaurant...... C1 Main Market...... Chinese Market...... EATING A1 A1 Sayananh Hotel...... A1 Santiphap Guesthouse...... A1 Khounmany Guesthouse...... A1 HongKham Guesthouse...... Alooncheer Hotel...... SLEEPING B1 Wat Sisavangvong...... B3 Wat Sibounheuang...... B3 Wat Phaphoun...... A1 Museum...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES B2 Tourist Office...... B2 Ticky Computer...... A1 Post Office...... A1 BCEL...... INFORMATION Pak Kimin below the dam,amodestbut Elephant Sanctuary Spa Centre golf course and 0 0 Pak Xang Pak Xang lonelyplanet.com and botanical andbotanical D

( % 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Nam Tien opens 020-244 ridges

0.3 miles 500 m (www. NORTHERN LAOS

, are are 185 ticket of- 7am-10pm) flies to night mar- h main market Lao Capricorn Huay Kon 020-5569 7696; fried Chinese Market 211 171; mains 25,000- 211 171; mains who can run you who can run you % (traditional sweets). ( . %

( m

ǒ 8am-noon & 2-4pm Mon-Fri) khàn Well-made, professionally Well-made, professionally near the central roundabout and sizeable h 213 152; www.laocapricornair.net; 213 152; www.laocapricornair.net; The Shining is beside the main Pak Lai road, is beside the main Pak %

6-10pm) 020-236 6793; r 60,000K) 213 153; airport h 8am-6.30pm) ( Airport % 6.30am-11pm) (

( % Nam Tiene Restaurant Nam Tiene and barbecue Several eateries cheaper

looking entrance that belies soulless, merely merely that belies soulless, entrance looking h Getting There & Away The Air fice Vientiane on Monday and Friday at 10.50am. presented food along with lovely reservoir food along with lovely presented out to the the excursion views amply reward dam. Nam Tien between the tourist line the street vendors The and Sayananh Hotel. office ( ket has food stalls for noodle soup, Lao grills, fruits and fresh beside the southern bus A simple local eatery (5000K) and stand little pork chops does great less appetising bee-larvae in banana roasted leaf (3000K). the centre. around 3km south of adequate rooms off corridors that could have could have that rooms off corridors adequate in featured Eating Restaurant Saynamhung 70,000K, fried noodles 10,000K, beer 10,000K; and river the bamboo-banked Contemplate you dine on Kimin massif as Pak the looming tasty Lao un- food whoseare culinary merits English transla- by the menu’s clumsy dersold Mushrooms’ is Fish with tions. The ‘Stream actually a complex, delightfully well-balanced flavour-fest. rice other mains 25,000-50,000K; 15,000K, fish by weight, h both functional, modern affairs. A ) to Phrae (160B, five hours) via Nan (100B, three hours) via Nan (100B, three (160B, five ) to Phrae

) a to Hongsa should be prepared to collect you. Or you to collect you. Or you to Hongsa should be prepared a ew ǎ wngth ǎ is around 2.5km west of Muang Ngeun junction. On the Lao side is around 2.5km west of Muang Ngeun junction. On the Lao side s Dougmala Guesthouse 211 342; without/ 211 381; r 60,000K) 083-024 3675; ) Conspicuous and 211 184; r 80,000K; % % ( ( %

Plonked in one of one of in Plonked a )

% 8am-5pm) ( This sizeable Hmong- ) 211 116; r without/with TV 213 136; r 40,000-60,000K, r with 213 136; r 40,000-60,000K, r with a h a % ( ( %

( •• Sainyabuli (Xaignabouri) THE MIDDLE MEKONG border post From the Thai side, if you don’t want to walk your bags across the 1km of no-man’s-land you if you don’t want to walk your bags across the 1km of no-man’s-land side, you From the Thai is not quite a village but does have simple noodle shops serving simple noodle shops market a village but does have is not quite 30B meals and a large only public transport immigration. The on Saturday morning just up the hill from comes alive is a luxurious minibus ( The The CROSSING THE THAI BORDER AT HUAY KON & MUANG NGEUN KON & MUANG HUAY BORDER AT CROSSING THE THAI might plod 900m east to the there’s no restaurant nor any waiting transport nor any waiting no restaurant but if you can persuade the immigration officer there’s to call for you, the afternoon into town. Either should charge 5000K per person, minimum 20,000K. into town. Either should charge border post, Thai The can pay 100B for a motorbike with luggage-carrying sidecar. hours) departing from the border post at 11.45am. Northbound the bus stations in it leaves 8am. at 6am, and Nan at Phrae Santiphap Guesthouse The 3km asphalt spur road to Nam Tien Tien road to Nam asphalt spur The 3km Sayananh Hotel HongKham Guesthouse Alooncheer Hotel 80,000/100,000K, ste 150,000K; has a grand- hotel central, this three-storey suffer from road noise and the bathrooms are suffer from road noise and the bathrooms are piping are slightly the showers cramped, but free. and instant are coffee hot. Tea con, TV this one of and good linens make Sainyabuli’s best options. Front rooms can traditional style timber-top house and run by traditional style timber-top family who speak some English. a charming Beds comfy and new. are There are many plusher rooms in town but are There behind a the HongKham is central, tucked down in quality. a few stains. Very good value, but beware that good value, but beware stains. Very a few a significant step rooms are cheapest the very traditional instruments and most rooms have and most rooms have traditional instruments high and only ceilings, twee lamps, minibars air-con 60,000-100,000K; yet central, its pol- owned complex is quiet with is decorated ished wood-panelled lobby Sainyabuli’s incongruous central rice fields, Sainyabuli’s incongruous five this new, family-style guesthouse offers and rooms with squat toilets clean, fair-sized hot showers. Khounmany Guesthouse a bridge (6.5km from central Sainyabuli). from central Sainyabuli). (6.5km a bridge Sleeping branches west off the Pak Lai road around west off the Pak branches south bus station, the before just 500m before have the chance to ride, feed and bathe the and bathe the feed to ride, the chance have elephants. lonelyplanet.com with TV 50,000/40,000K; Clean, well appointed rooms with desks, air- Clean, well appointed NORTHERN LAOS a long,abrupt ridge tothewest retains arare karst formationsaround sorry exotica. Thescenerysports afew small recentlyNyab) sells killedcivets andother ofrustic Hmongsettlement Asmallroadsidemarketa guesthouse. inthe BanNamPouy deforesteda narrow,brutally valleybeyond inattractiveset riceterraces. Thenitclimbs cession of relatively prosperousruraltowns in recent years. anda mask. Weardustsheets tually strippedof theironce-majestic forests thenearbyhillsidesvir- bootyhasseen whose further stirred trucks upbynumerouslogging dusty whendry.Theendlesscloudsof dustare muddyafter rainandappallinglypassably route isahellish ride. Theroadisalmostim- now themostly-unpaved Pak Lai–Sainyabuli majorAlthough roadworksare underway,for Sainyabuli toPakLai SOUTH OFSAINYABULI established. operate oncetheElephantSanctuaryhasbeen should Prabang totheNamTien reservoir per person) departfromthemainmarket. (main/south10,000/15,000K the busstations of theairport. southern busstation which depart around9amandnoonfromthe (50,000K, 4½hours) thantaking bus isamuch better waytoreach Pak Lai Given theappallinglydustyroad,that Lai. only)runsviaPaking 9.30am,dry-season pletion May 2013). Prabang roadisasphalted (scheduled forcom- the ThaDeuabridge isbuiltandtheLuang times shoulddroptoaround2½hours once (the later ‘VIP’ buscosts10%more). Journey at1pmor4pm the Vientiane-bound services departat9amand2pmoryoucoulduse buses Luang Prabang(50,000K,fourhours) direct (200,000K) ifthere's passengers. For enough Khop (150,000K)andeven Xienghone ing somedaystoMuangNgeun (100,000K), (80,000K,threeto Hongsa hours) continu- north of thecentre, an11am Air.marked Lao ticket office 800mfurthernorth,misleadingly Air tickets (695,000K)are soldfromthetiny 186 Tourist minivansdirect fromLuang S A thirdSainyabuli–Vientianebus(depart- asuc- The initiallyflatroadleadsthrough the From ǎ wngth THE MIDDLEMEKONG••SouthofSainyabuli ǎ ew main busstation (Ban NamPhui), where (Ban there’s forThaDeuaplustuk-tuksto , a tiny stand 4kmsouthwest , atinystand Na Mo ( % s Nam Gnap ǎ , beyondwhich wngth 213 173) s ǎ wngth ǎ 2.5km ew (Nam runs ǎ ew, ὈὈ ὈὈ

facade blendsTai Lüandart-nouveau design Complex Next door,withinthe a gaudilyornate newbelltowerandgateway. sports someoldermonks’quarters aswell at colonial style. northtosouth,start Exploring andFrench-historic structures inbothLao riverside roadthat’ssparsely dotted with 4 paralleledablockfurthereastbyshorter Thailand. Thetownfollowsa5kmcurlof Rte in routeSainyabuliandLoei between off-beat port isanalmostunavoidable stoponthe thisMekongBustling andpleasant, river- % ¯¾¡ì¾¨ Lai Pak trouble. ploring withoutpermissionwillcause extensivesustain wildlife populationsbutex- rugged, forestedthese hillsare to thought spared, in,whereDeeper hasbeen logging limit isjust1kmfromtheschool in the 1150sqkm forest. Much of thisregion isofficially within Tha Li(92km);Loei(140km) Thai Border(68km); Kenthao (63km); To BusStation(1.5km); remnant of thearea’s oncesplendidtropical 1 3 2 PAK LAI Development Wat Sisavang Memorial 074 /pop12,000 Kaysone Bank Lao TRANSPORT EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Riverboat Landing...... River Station...... Saykhong...... Kemkhong Restaurant...... Sengchaleurn Guesthouse...... Jenny Guesthouse...... Wat Sisavang...... Complex...... BCEL...... any...... A3 Saendy...... District Administration 7 , notice an old wooden building whose , noticeanoldwoodenbuildingwhose A Market Small (Wat Sisavangvong), which (WatSisavangvong), Nam Phui NPANam Phui Bus Station(2km) To Sainyabuli 1 0 0 District Administration District 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 9 B3 B3 B2 B2 B2 B2 B1 B2 A3 10 lonelyplanet.com whose western whose 8 B 100 m

Mekong River 4 2 6 5 Phonsack 0.1 miles 3 . NORTHERN LAOS

187 ew ǎ wngth ǎ s (35B) the remaning 46km to 46km to (35B) the remaning bus loop (www.straytravel.asia). bus loop (www.straytravel.asia). ew ǎ wngth ǎ s The altitude (averaging over 1000m) en- over The altitude (averaging XIENG KHUANG & XIENG KHUANG culture of which historical knowledge is aston- historical knowledge which of culture ishingly hazy. Whoever carved those enigmatic by the monuments had long since disappeared 13th-century when Xieng Khuang emerged principality with a Phuan as a Buddhist, Tai ). Both 194 capital at today’s Muang Khoun (p Long Thaang Long Thaang is else province in either Almost anywhere the tourist radar. off completely that’s not too hot in the hot a climate sures season, not too cold in the cool season. In and a jacket sweaters December and January, at night be appropriate and in the will often early mornings, when seas cloud fill the of other-worldly valleys and form populated scenes for those down from passes looking or peaks. History ‘jars’ Xieng Khuang’s giant world-famous mega- ) along with Hintang’s mysterious 193 (p a well-developed iron-age ) indicate 202 (p liths Lonely, narrow roads wind in seemingly Lonely, theseendless ribbons across sparsely green, towards provinces northeastern populated ) and the 193 (p Jars’ ‘Plain of the mysterious ). Both are 200 (p fascinating Vieng Xai Caves en to visit if you’re truly intriguing places to or from Vietnam, but might a route feel made a special little anticlimactic if you’ve trip. You could alternatively out-and-back combine them as a loop trip from Luang talk ) where Prabang with added stops in Nong Khiaw 203 ) and Vieng Thong (p 204 (p buzz. is causing a minor travel treks’ ‘tiger of pricey on Stray Asia’s feature the above All of at 9am (90,000K), taking roughly 7½ hours back up. nine hours downstream, HUA PHAN PROVINCES HUA

river river falang to the border post at Kaen Thao at around 10am and post at Kaen to the border 10am and at around Thao 020-236 (Sandee; BCEL Bank ) a block 7am-9pm) ew is the home of yet another (but smaller) Friendship Bridge, Friendship Bridge, of yet another (but smaller) is the home ǎ % ( a h

(mains 20,000- Sengchaleurn (mains 30,000-

Saendy has hot show- wngth ) ǎ 8am-6pm) s a h ( Saykhong

ble, and helpful Chan is good for a quiet 9000K Jenny Guesthouse border (50,000K, 4½ hours). These (50,000K, 4½ hours). PROVINCES PHAN & HUA XIENG KHUANG 020-206 8888; r 100,000K; Kemkhong Restaurant ew to Kaen Thao, plus a 9am bus to Kaen ǎ % (

6am-10.30pm) ew ǎ beside Jenny Guesthouse is livelier Guesthouse is livelier beside Jenny h on Monday (and some Thursdays) on Monday (and some Thursdays) wngth From Pak Lai, there are are Lai, there From Pak ǎ s 020-236 5950; mains 15,000K-25,000K; 020-236 5950; mains 15,000K-25,000K; noon (35,000K, 1¾ hours). After walking take to a short 1¾ hours). After noon (35,000K, have across the bridge you’ll this time over the Nam Heuang. this time over ride (20B) 8km to Tha Li before transferring to another transferring Li before to Tha ride (20B) 8km CROSSING THE THAI BORDER AT THAI LI & KAEN THAO THAO LI & KAEN THAI AT BORDER THAI THE CROSSING This quiet rural Loei, from where there are regular connections Bangkok and elsewhere. to regular are there Loei, from where The Elephant Festival is held every third The Elephant Festival wngth ǎ SLEEPING & EATING more appealing option to Vientiane is the appealing option to Vientiane is the more departing from the central riverboat, station s A to Vientiane (80,000K, around six hours). per person to the guesthousesper person or 10,000K to has That terminal the southern bus terminal. Mud-crusted victims arrive at Pak Lai’s lit- at Pak victims arrive Mud-crusted the tle Sainyabuli bus station, 3km north of 7000K tuk-tuks charge From there, centre. depart in both directions between 7.30am between 7.30am depart in both directions and 9.30am and once again around noon. you attempt the Pak Lai–Sainyabuli journey the Pak you attempt by GETTING THERE & AWAY Bring a facemask and disposable if clothes does better yet cheaper food, and its tastefully food, and its tastefully does yet cheaper better it a would make atmosphere low-key and also overlooks the river. the river. and also overlooks % 40,000K; views, beer with river 40,000K) north. Next door within an older wooden north. Next door within an older wooden building, the ginally fresher is the all air-con is the all air-con ginally fresher Guesthouse odd cobweb is forgiva speaks some English. Newer and just mar- ers and Mekong views from some rooms. The views from some and Mekong ers Brilliantly central, year in Pak Lai, see the boxed text, p 182 for 182 p Lai, text, seeyear in Pak the boxed information. more in town. any foreigners there were favourite market. market. a little old wooden bridge into an attractive into an attractive a little old wooden bridge local homes beyond a small of area village-like main guesthouses, the river port and main guesthouses, the river crossing before available) exchange (ATM, ideas. Within the next 500m you’ll pass the ideas. Within the next lonelyplanet.com 5971; r fan/air-con 50,000/90,000K; 5971; r fan/air-con 50,000/90,000K; NORTHERN LAOS 1960s thearea hadbecomeamajor battlefield. to protect Hanoi’s rear flank.Bytheend of the startedabuild-upofNorth Vietnamese troops and assoontheFrench leftIndochina the the VietMinhtookplacefrom1945to1946, and French protection. tury, pushingbothprovinces toacceptSiamese gangs ravaged theregion inthelate 19thcen- dress HawVietnamese andcustoms.Chinese a prefecture of Annam,forcingpeopletoadopt executed himinHuéandmadethekingdom the Phuan kingof publicly XiengKhuang, capturedTran Ninh.In1832theVietnamese and knownasAiLao states vassal Vietnamese independent kingdomsorpartof Annamese– provinces centuriesaseither spentsubsequent 188 Major and theFree Lao skirmishesbetween treks withfreelance guides,some includingscenic boattrips. Village’. costumedtribesfolkinthisarea. It’safascinating walk,butdon’texpect tothe‘Bomba roadlessHmongvillage andculminates withthe ascentofamulti-stagewaterfall en route butminimalforest. (where some localladieswearcuriouslygaudysemi-traditionalcostumes),withplentyof views some itinerariescombinedwithtreks. accessible Akha villages(where manylocalwomenstillweartraditionalcostumes). accessible Akha actually wanttoseeandwhereactually you’llfind it.Notallroutes are equallyinspiring. have uniqueroutes. However, thisinadvertently addstothecomplexityofdecidingjustwhatyou ‘jungle camps’are especiallypopular. Toreduce pressure onanysinglehostvillage,most agents Forest toNamHaNPA hikes andkayaking. such asbiking withotheractivities bining trekking are alsopossiblenearBounNeua. munities. Manyhomesretain thatchedroofs, picture-book atleastfornow.Virgin-forest treks costumes andarcaneanimistbeliefs intheremote are com- stillcommonplace,particularly Akha differentiates centres. thevarioustrekking ismlaos.com forplentymore information.The ofwhat followinglistisageneralisedoverview funds. Seetheboxed text, p 234 forculturaltipsandvisittheexcellentwebsite www.ecotour might becheaperbutisdiscouragedasthey’llrarely contributionstovillagedevelopment make directly ismore socomparingproduct relevant thancomparingprices. Employingfreelance guides if alone,fallingtounderUS$20perpersonforalarger group.Agencies don’tgenerallycompete are inmany cases.departure typicallyaroundUS$35perpersonday Costsexcludingtransport permitscanusuallybearrangedverytrekking quicklybylocalagencies–theevening before guidesandanynecessaryoff-road villageswithoutaguideisofdubiouslegality.Fortunately, to thevillagesvisited andtoabidebysensibleecologically friendlyguidelines. Visiting remote Nam HaNPA. Registered agenciespledgetoreturn asignificant(andstated) percentageofprofits Laoshaswonprizes system, forits‘ecotrekking’ Northern pioneered inLuang Namtha andthe TREKKING INNORTHERNLAOS XIENG KHUANG &HUA PHAN PROVINCES Muang Ngoi Neua Phonsavan Muang Khua Udomxai Muang Long Vieng Phukha Luang Namtha Phongsali (p 209 Udomxaiapopularcentre) Aspecialistagencymakes formountainbiking, (p 231 ) Nowhere outintotrulytimelessvillageswhere isbetter traditional forstriking (p 189 ) Oneuniquetrek combinesamossyarchaeological site, accommodationin p26) & (p 226) (p 227 Pala trek) Limited visitinganAkha options includeaone-day village (p 222 pointforNamHaforest treks.) Amuchlesscommercialstarting (p 216 ) Treks are very wellorganised andhave numerousoptions,somecom- (p 207 ) Easy DIYday-walkstopretty villagesorvery inexpensive group Muang Sing (p 223 andrelatively) GuidedorDIYvisitstocolourful the 1980s and the possibility that a samana still the 1980sandpossibilitythatasamana political indoctrination.Many continuedinto royalists withamixture of hardlabourand Hua Phan, to‘rehabilitate’ andpunishformer ucation campsappeared, ineastern notably After theconflict, infamous province.royalist-held western XiengKhuang once-magnificent MuangSuiandmuch of of damage onthegroundaswell,destroying government. also sheltered thePathet anti-Royalist Lao’s of cavesVieng Xai,themostimportant these protection incaves, onlyemerging in1973.At much of thepopulationhadtolive fortheir obliterating townandvillage, virtuallyevery bombingbyAmericanplanes With saturation troopsdidtheirshareNorth Vietnamese lonelyplanet.com samana re-ed- NORTHERN LAOS

Lao Lao 189 7am-10pm) h and from several and from several 312 070, 020-5556 1023; Km 312 070, 020-5556 BCEL Lao-Mongolian Friendship Provincial Tourist Office % (

(per min 200K; is OK for minor health is OK for minor health , at has a semi-dormant restaurant has a semi-dormant restaurant 312 166) $ × has a series of information scrolls information scrolls has a series of % (

internet shop 312 217) 061 / pop 60,000 Overlooking the pond in Ban Nong Tang, OverlookingBan pond in the Nong Tang, the landscape consists Nong Tang East of The region has long been a centre of Phuan Phuan of has long been a centre The region at is available exchange Currency % Information Hospital needs. Dangers & Annoyances UXO (un- of the dangers Don’t underestimate . 199 exploded ordnance) to you; see p language and culture (part of the Tai-Kadai the Tai-Kadai (part of and culture language also a strong Vietnamese family). There’s presence. The oddly located ( treks. to peruse and is developing regional cost others here, free Some town maps are 5000K. Development Bank along Rte two ATMs are There agents. travel 7. An beside Simmaly Restaurant has excellent con- nection speeds. The PHONSAVAN ²$¦½¹¸ % as a base Phonsavan use visitors of Droves ). 193 (p Jars of to visit the Plain from which The town itself and is has an unfinished feel out with its two parallel main spread very for about 3km east– boulevards stretching handy concentra- a very west. Fortunately is and tour agents restaurants hotels, tion of un- crammed into a short if architecturally ‘strip’ around the Nice Guesthouse. inspired and facilities straggle shops, markets More 7. But the town is best appreciated along Rte which from the surrounding hills, several of pine-clad and topped with small resorts. are caves descend hazardously into the mountain into hazardously descend caves from here. Guesthouse Nong Tang 89, Rte r 50,000K) 7; tiny timber and a trio of with a stilt platform, and desk balcony, miniature with cabins, each electricity. uncertain hopes of and low grassy hillocks, rice-valleys mostly of It’s a look that’s conifers. sparse sprinklings of from almost anywhere different altogether else in northern Laos. Viewed from the air, uncountable with the scene is polka-dotted depressions. bomb-crater , (Km

Tham Muang Sui , safely acces- , safely Ban Nong Tang are a pair of simple simple a pair of are . Looking eerily like a a . Looking eerily like

8am-4.30pm) h PROVINCES PHAN •• Phu Khoun to Phonsavan & HUA KHUANG XIENG Tham Sangja Ban Namchat

(admission 10,000K;

Close to Nong Tang lie several cliff-caves. Close to Nong Tang Worth a brief stop if you’re driving by (but Worth a brief stop if you’re is set around a pond flanked by abrupt is set around a pond flanked PHU KHOUN TO PHONSAVAN PHU KHOUN used as a makeshift hospital. Further unlit hospital.used Further unlit as a makeshift littered with ampoules and little glass medi- littered cine vials from the wartime era when it was junkie’s den, this rocky overhang-cave is still is still junkie’s den, this rocky overhang-cave crumbling old concrete steps for five min- for five steps crumbling old concrete around the rocky crag to find the much utes less-visited almost empty glass display case comically almost empty glass display case comically Antiques’. Exit the cave ‘Valuable marked the way you came in, turn left and follow little to see apart from a handful of small little to see small apart from a handful of ‘gong’ stalactite and an Buddhas, a resonant that is reputedly 1200 years old. Behind are old. Behind 1200 years are that is reputedly but there’s caverns sizeable water-eroded pond). The illuminated main-cave system system main-cave pond). The illuminated 5m-tall Buddha statue sports an unrefined sible by a 3.3km asphalted spur road (signed spur road (signed sible by a 3.3km asphalted the of west 7 directly from Rte ‘Buddha Cave’ guide should stick to the best known, Pha UXO worries mean that visitors without a without a UXO worries mean that visitors the had been pushed out of razed it was utterly Xieng Khuang Province, by the North Vietnamese Army. faction and ‘Lima Site 108’ (a landing site (a landing site 108’ faction and ‘Lima Site used by US planes). Late in the war, after during the Second War, Muang Indochina the Neutralist of Sui became the headquarters and quaint provincial architecture. However, architecture. and quaint provincial 89) was once limestone outcrops. This not a special excursion), not a special excursion), bridge in bridge for miles the only eateries roadside cafes, around. landscapes become more staid, with mostly staid, with mostly landscapes become more views. Across the and few secondary forest viewed between Hmong and Khamu villages. viewed between Hmong and Khamu villages. Beyond, the constant bends continue but snakes for 15km along a high ridge, offering offering for 15km along a high ridge, snakes distant mountains dazzling panoramas of 7 branches east of Rte 13, the Luang Prabang– Rte east of 7 branches road. Starting Vieng it dramatically, Vang At Phu Khoun (p 171 ), Phonsavan–bound Rte Rte ), Phonsavan–bound 171 Khoun Phu At (p local lives for generations to come. for generations local lives after the conflict, UXO (see the boxed text, text, UXO (see the conflict, after the boxed in especially widespread very ) remains 199 p Xieng Khuang,central and eastern threatening remains near Sop Hao has never been officially near Sop Hao remains decades Meanwhile, nor denied. confirmed lonelyplanet.com an historic city of antique Buddhist temples antique Buddhist temples an historic city of NORTHERN LAOS Bombies Harvest ings showthepowerful documentaries UXOto ponder.(defused) Evening screen- the bomb-drops and there are examples of ter map-programunderlinetheenormityof The centre’s photos,slideshowsandcompu- unexplodedordnancesince1994. clear Laos’s helpingto British organisation that hasbeen maginternational.org/laopdr; admissionfree; run by thought-provoking UXOInformationCentre understand justhowbadthingsare, visitthe thisregion. problemthroughout To astating unexploded bombsandminesremain adev- Decades after America’s‘secret’ waronLaos, Sights 190 ? " ‚ (29km) Khoun Muang (23km); 3 Site (19km); 2 Site (6km); Site Jars of Plain (2km); Airport To 26 4 1 2 3 Ngum 7 " PHONSAVAN Nam Lake ogTn MagSi (46km); Sui) (Muang Tang Nong 32 #H un rbn (268km) Prabang Luang oBsSain(1.5km); Station Bus To 5 XIENG KHUANG &HUA ••Phonsavan PHAN PROVINCES oge ushue...... Guesthouse KongKeo Guesthouse...... Khamdy Residence...... Hillside ...... Guesthouse Dokkhoun ...... Jarres Auberge delaPlaine des Hotel...... Lao Khen Analouck SLEEPING 8) (see Centre...... Information UXO-survivors' Khouang Xieng WarMemorial...... Vietnamese ...... MAG ...... WarMemorial Lao ...... Travel Lao Amazing ACTIVITIES & SIGHTS Office...... Tourist Provincial ...... Hospital FriendshipLao-Mongolian Bank...... Development Lao 8) (see Internet...... &ATM...... BCEL ATM...... INFORMATION h hu (135km); Khoun Phu ubris(1.7km); Mulberries MAG MAG (2007, www.bombharvest.com) and (2007,www.bombharvest.com) (2001, www.itvs.org/bombies/film. i " (Mines AdvisoryGroup; (Mines A

Hotel Duangkeomany i

‚

66 66 & 10 19

i " t ,Km 7, Rte ot135 post # X " 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Station Petrol D2 C2 C1 D2 D3 D2 B3 D2 C3 D2 A2 B2 C2 C1 D2 % Phonekham Guesthouse...... Phonekham Guesthouse...... Nice Guesthouse...... Phane Meung Hotel...... Maly ag etuat...... Sanga Restaurant Restaurant...... Nisha Market...... Fresh 1) &Restaurant...... (see Bar Craters EATING ...... Hotel Khouang Xieng Guesthouse...... Orchid White 021-252 004;www. h Q " B 9

@ !0 8am-8pm)

G # Bomb 4 a 2 # 2 west of themainbusstation. offers interesting free visits. It’soff Rte 7just h the war. soldiersPathet lostin andVietnamese Lao are twohilltop intotheUXOproblem. sight bomb partsandgives further harrowingin- displays prostheticlimbs,wheelchairs and Centre sightful tive T-shirt. Twodoors away,thesimilarlyin- m andqualifiesthegiver foracommemora- US$12 paysfortheclearingof around10sq html). Donationsare encouraged: highly i " ? " Q " 19 18 17 16 24 23 22 21 20 16 27 Mulberries About 1kmapartatthe southedge of town 7 A2 D2 D2 C2 D2 D2 D2 D2 D2 8am-4pm Mon-Sat) 30 7 "

( % Happy Motorbike...... Happy TRANSPORT Phopmit...... Sindard Miham...... Salabeer ...... Barview DRINKING Khoun...... toSǎwngthǎew Muang ...... Station) Haet Bus (Old &Nong to Sǎwngthǎew Muang Kham Tang (Chinese to Sǎwngthǎew Ban NongMarket)...... Airlines...... Lao & Xieng Khouang UXO-survivors’ Information UXO-survivors’ Xieng Khouang 7 C 213 349;www.laos.worlded.org; i " asHotel Jars of Plain Vansana

2 # 333 333 ( i " %

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29

memorials i " 021-561 271;www.mulberries.org; Station is afair-trade silk farmthat Petrol 14 X " 33333 333 333 333 333 333 31 7 " 22

0400m 21 00.2miles @ " i " ( 28 27 26 25 32 31 30 29 h 1 24 @ " D2 C2 A2 D2 A2 D2 C1 C2 2 # lonelyplanet.com o'obVlae (27km); Village' 'Bomb To 28 sunrise-sunset) S " # 8 Airstrip 25 un hm(50km); Kham Muang Old D 18 015 20 ogHe (113km); Haet Nong 33 ? " i i " " a ea(234km) Neua Sam hmPu(56km); Piu Tham h 10 i " 12 i " # 6 @ " 17 i " 8am-8pm) 23 i " 7 to 11 i " ‚

NORTHERN LAOS

) W Set Set 191 Way Way ) aW 020-5626 2675; d/tw % 213 567; r US$24-30; 213 567; r US$24-30; ( 020-7766 1555; r 50,000K)

213 300; Ban Tai; r US$25) 213 300; Ban Tai; % % ( ( % (

312 031; www.malyht.laotel.com; 312 031; www.malyht.laotel.com; This odd new guesthouse ) % ( i Auberge de la Plaine des Jarres 020-5599 9192; [email protected]; r US$60) Khamdy Guesthouse Xieng Khouang Hotel o Maly Hotel Hillside Residence Phonekham Guesthouse % there’s a pleasant family atmosphere. A shared A shared a pleasant family atmosphere. there’s rooms upstairs and some upper sitting terrace their own balconies. have ( s 150,000-400,000K, r 200,000-500,000K; Phonsavan’s atmospheric than most of more lead off rooms the Maly’s box-hotels, generic and stairways corridors of a rambling warren in local fabrics and giant masks. decorated slightly basement rooms have The cheapest charac- scuffed but the best rooms are carpets and sporting with love decorated suites, terful A cosy restau- bathtubs for two. corner-unit good food, and locally reliably rant offers to available (in English) are videos relevant in the lobby-lounge. watch garden, this newly of in a neat handkerchief built half-timbered it be- mansion looks like pe- longs in a colonial hill-town. Rooms are but refined, could be more and furniture tite Newer guesthouses are dotted sparsely all over sparsely all over dotted guesthousesNewer are value than better these are of Many Phonsavan. within walking are those on the strip but few the money you might so restaurants, distance of on sleeping will be spent on transport. save peeling of patches cobwebs and a few Despite good value with OK rooms are paint, the large tiles. Without a car beds and shiny new floor isolated. pretty the location can feel col- space on a two-storey inordinate lavishes umned entrance hall that’s spookily unadorned internet). (free except for a single computer smart and spacious for the price, Rooms are show springy teeth andthough the mattresses the suburban location is awkwardly isolated. fers a striking jump in quality over all nearby all nearby over jump in quality a striking fers Bright, price. modest extra for a competitors the are 200,000K rooms clean and ample-sized kettle, linens, white virginal best value with included. booth and breakfast shower fridge, the lift electricity usually keeps Independent the town has power of the rest working when cuts. conspicuous, this brand-new but utterly Very construction has only one soulless four-storey wi-fi. selling point – the free ELSEWHERE 60,000/70,000K;

Hidden at Hidden at 312 046; r US$10) 312 403; r 80,000- 213 599; r 150,000- % % ( 312 189; r from 60,000K) ( % (

260 026; ouanvat@yahoo. 211 354, 020-5658 2683; 211 354, 020-5658 2683; % (

% % 312 454; d/tw 80,000/100,000K) ( ( % (

PROVINCES PHAN •• Phonsavan & HUA XIENG KHUANG This modern five-storey tower of- This modern five-storey ) Wicker lamps and oddments of and oddments of lamps Wicker a

arranges the Phakeo Trek (p 195 ), charg- 195 (p Trek the Phakeo arranges Dokkhoun Guesthouse Other advertised tours include trips to the tours Other advertised

Analouck Khen Lao Hotel Meung Phane Guesthouse White Orchid Guesthouse Nice Guesthouse Amazing Lao Travel 300,000K; rooms set style round a parking yard. motel Five ample-sized rooms with decent bath- Five beds. Much bigger but poorer value, the value, the but poorer bigger beds. Much furni- lacquered heavy 200,000K rooms have bathrooms. but the same unsophisticated ture cramped 100,000K rooms with undersized cramped 100,000K rooms with undersized 200,000K) while map design local fabric add character you Lao teach in the geography bed-covers Phonsavan’s ‘strip’ has English-speaking staffPhonsavan’s overly and well maintained rooms that aren't a narrow balcony. rooms share big. Upstairs This welcoming choice at the heart of at the heart of This welcoming choice Rooms of varying standards occupy two varying standards occupy two Rooms of on price blocks. They compete multi-storey battered, and location but those we saw were dark and dank with little sense style. of where fires are lit in sliced-open bomb casings are fires where videos on the war era. and guests watch solar-heated showers. The great selling point The great showers. solar-heated hangout in front is the bamboo bar-restaurant bathroom and rucked carpets, though there carpets, though there bathroom and rucked with bungalows half a dozen en-suite also are the southern end of the former airstrip, the the former airstrip, the southern end of Spartan, with shared rooms are KongKeo’s KongKeo Guesthouse s/d 60,000/80,000K)www.kongkeojar.com; Sleeping CENTRAL STRIP com) for prices to be competitive. Try gathering for prices to be competitive. your own group. ‘Bomb Village’ (p 195 ) and Muang Khoun 195 (p ‘Bomb Village’ garner enough), but these custom rarely 194 (p tle shopping around and relies on there being being on there around and relies tle shopping Don’t expect at least seven passengers. fellow insight too much guide. from your 90,000K without. Getting90,000K without. a lit- takes that price every into a to slot you guesthouse is ready tour visiting the three Jars of one-day Plain in- going price is 120,000K The main sites. or and entry fees lunch cluding noodle-soup Tours Several virtually drag and on the main agents lonelyplanet.com ing 340,000/700,000K per person in groups person ing 340,000/700,000K per eight/two. of NORTHERN LAOS Snacks include‘friedfrogs’and‘scalded gut’. above oneof Phonsavan’s numerousponds. with fadedframedphotosof wartimebom- furniturebamboo andrattan anddecorated call Phonsavan ‘Xieng Khuang’, even though though call Phonsavan even ‘XiengKhuang’, usually Note that airlineandbustimetables & Away There Getting pond. Nospoken English. similar andhasa‘swan’boatforpunts onthe Salabeer Miham Phopmit viewsoversunset thericefields,and afield include pavilionsLocal-style open-sidedbeer further often screens UXO-related DVDsatnight. isreallyGuesthouse traveller oriented –it old airstrip, onlythebaratKongKeo Of ahandfulof playfullylitbars aroundthe Drinking forWestern palates. tamed suitably dishesarecosts halftheprice. ThaiandLao abeaten-flat(65,000K), though localsteak wiches, anAustralianT-bone pizzasandeven bardments. Themenuincludesclubsand- 10pm) snacks 12,000-25,000K,meals25,000-65,000K; paintedIndian dinerwithroughly timberwalls. androganjoshatthispopular tikka masalas 10pm) is apopularbargain. decent whileat15,000K,thesteak andchips ble prices.Thechicken unexpectedly accomplishedforsuch sensi- banal concrete box-room butthemealsare 20,000K; dog( rants serve restau- Vietnamese Hotel’s restaurant. Several specialities. Trythe fermented swallows( Wild matsutake mushrooms( Eating French are spoken. views. It’sprofessionally run,andEnglish restaurant too,withsweeping isdelightful and paper-umbrellas forlamps.Thebar- stone bungalowswithfireplaces, boardfloors option isacharacterful of series wood-and- looking thetown,Phonsavan’s mostappealing Crowning adifferent pine-forested hillover- 192 SangaRestaurant Craters Bar&Restaurant Craters NishaRestaurant Thiscosy, XIENG KHUANG &HUA ••Phonsavan PHAN PROVINCES Tuck into delicious aloo ghobi, dosas, dosas, Tuck intodeliciousalooghobi, h ( % 11am-10pm) 020-234 4054; ( % Barview Barview falang thit chó

(mains 14,000-35,000K; (Sa-Nga; 020-5587 5207;

fresh market fresh The venue isalarge, nok -pleasing cafe isfullof ( h % ). % làap ą 8am-11pm)

en d 020-234 5881) ( 312 318;mains10,000- % wasespecially h ą , oraskinMaly hét wâi 020-7780 5775; wng 7.30am-late) , onstilts h h ) are local , with Sindard 6.30am- 6.30am- )

and

is Saturday andSunday.Someyears aweekly (675,000K) onMonday,Wednesday,Friday, timetabled toPaksan timetabled (100,000K)buttheroad they finallydribbleintotown.A7.30ambusis thatshouldpickuphere Neua buses once to10hours)eight plustwoVientiane–Sam There’s an8ambustoSamNeua(60,000K, and VIPbus(85,000K)departat8.30am. Prabang (10hours) bothminivan(75,000K) tional 7.30amdeparture (80,000K).ForLuang Vangthrough Vieng,towhere there’s anaddi- allpass and aVIPbus(115,000K)at8pm.These at7am,8am,10.30am,4.30pm,6.40pm buses Vientiane (95,000K,11hours) there are air-con sonally onMondaystoHanoi (185,000K).For Thursday, FridayandSunday,continuingsea- (138,000K, 11hours) at6.30amonTuesday, here Vietnam-bound departtoVinh buses around4kmwestofbus station, MAG.From faresthan standard butincludeatransfer tothe agencies typicallycostaround40,000Kmore Longer-distance bustickets presold bytravel International &LongDistance BUS peak season. to/fromLuangPrabangoperates inflight LaoAirlines AIR (p194). Khoun that wasoriginallythenameforMuang be chartered and mostguesthouses through ofselection jarsites. motorbikes (100,000K), idealforreaching a rents bicycles(perday40,000K) and100cc port. person forgroups),and20,000Kto theair- (or5000Kper10,000K tothebusstation Tuk-tuks costfrom5000Kforashorthop, Around Getting atthe oldbusstation. four daily)theystart daily) andNongHaet (35,000K,fourhours, (20,000K,twohours,for MuangKham four Market;three attheChinese daily)theystart ket; NongTang forBan (10,000K,onehour, last return atNamNgammar- 5pm)theystart (10,000K,fourdaily, forMuangKhoun stands: and Local buses services Local isn’t duetobecompleted until2015. remains deplorableandroadreconstruction Chauffeured vans or4WDscan six-seater Happy Motorbike Happy Motorbike ( % 212 027) s ǎ wngth flies to/fromVientiane ( % ǎ ew 213 233; use three use different lonelyplanet.com h 7am-8pm) NORTHERN LAOS 193 2 km To Sam (16km) Phuchan Resort 1 mile Neua (232km) To Muang Khoun Auberge de la Plaine des Jarres 0 0 Lathang Phonsavan Mulberries Ban Hay Hin Petrol Bus Station Jar Site 2a Station Ban Lat Khai Jar Site 2 Jar Site 2b Ticket Office Jar Site 3 Airport Jar Site 1 7 Tank Russian features 334 jars or jar fragments fragments or jar jars 334 features Motocycle Ban Xiang Di Repair Shack To Luang Prabang (260km) Jar Sites 2 & 3 Jar Sites nor as plentiful as large aren’t While the jars charming 2 and 3 both have 1, Sites as at Site the journey locations and different yet very some typical glimpses of them offers to reach the turn west of For both sites, local villages. Muang Khoun road at just past Km 8. Follow 10km/14km to find the road for the unpaved 2/3, then follow muddy turnings for Sites tracks for 1.5/1.8km respectively. 5pm Oct-Feb) hilly slopes of on a pair close-packed relatively Hai biggest, The with bomb craters. pocked stands around 6 tonnes, weighs over Jeuam, been2.5m high the mythi- and is said to have is just The site Khun Jeuam. of cal victory cup 2.3km Phonsavan, central of 8km southwest the Muang Khoun road – turn at the west of Hin. The bare, in Bansigned junction Hay thoughhilly landscape is appealing, in one airport seem Phonsavan the views of direction booth is planned discordant. An information a gift already there’s near the entrance, where and toilets. pavilion shop, rest Site 1 8am-4pm Mar-Sep, 7am- h PROVINCES PHAN •• Around Phonsavan & HUA XIENG KHUANG $ Ø Sites 1, 2 and 3 form the bases of most tour 1, 2 and 3 form the bases of Sites Smaller jars have long since been carted long since been carted have Smaller jars ¤Ä¹¹ ‰ MAIN JAR SITES MAIN (Hai Hin; admission 10,000K; Jar Site 1 Jar Site and most easily accessible, The biggest low-key and can be virtually deserted and if you low-key in the afternoon. arrive is northeastern Laos’sis northeastern most popular tourist remarkably are attraction, even the main sites loops. Phakeo (a trio of closely linked, over- closely linked, (a trio of loops. Phakeo grown sub-sights)only accessible by two- is Jars ). Although the Plain of 195 (p day trek side to avoid very unpleasant surprises. very side to avoid access paths, are delineated by easily missed delineated are access paths, stones: stay on the white marker red-and-white far been cleared of UXO, and then only within of far been cleared These and their sites, areas. limited relatively wars, it’s miraculous that so many jars survived. it’s miraculous that so many jars wars, so have jar-sites 90 recorded the Only seven of was carpet-bombed throughout the Indochina was carpet-bombed off by collectors but around 2500 larger jars, but around 2500 larger by collectors off the region As jar fragments and ‘lids’ remain. beside Jar Site 1 housed kiln. In fact, Site such one beside Jar fashioned from solid were however, the jars they date estimate stone and archaeologists between iron age, from the Southeast Asian 500 BC and 200AD. buffalo then skin, sand, and sugar cane, water in ‘kilns’. Some even claim that the cave fired Jeuam. In some versions of this story, the jars this story, the jars of In some versions Jeuam. cement made from ‘cast’ from a type of were local people’s 6th-century liberation from liberation from local people’s 6th-century hero Khun by the Tai-Lao cruel overlords tion made them. Remarkably, nobody knows. tion made them. Remarkably, But that doesn’t stop guides guessing, often a fanciful amusingly randomly. Meanwhile, made to brew claims that they were legend the rice wine to celebrate vast quantities of hills. But what is more fascinating than the fascinating hills. But what is more civilisa- what of is the mystery themselves jars leys at Muang Sing or Luang Namtha, and leys at Muang Sing or on are sites the curious jar indeed most of the misleading name of Plain of Jars. In fact In Jars. Plain of the misleading name of val- a plain than the rice-bowl of it’s no more origin are scattered over hundreds of square square of hundreds over scattered origin are the area giving Phonsavan, around kilometres ê unknown of ancient stone jars very Giant, hotels, but you’re looking at US$150 to Sam at US$150 looking you’re but hotels, Luang Prabang. US$120 to Neua, AROUND PHONSAVAN Plain OfJars lonelyplanet.com NORTHERN LAOS of hill-crests dividedbyashallowgullythat greened historic stupas,all walking distance of townsupports site maintenance. Ticket (10,000K) atabooththewestern end Visitor’s timbers. Buyingthe MuangKhoun builtofsporting Phuan-style houses sturdy some attractive rice-terrace villages, several from Phonsavan (30km) takes you through andthegoodasphalt road ments survived ahandfulofdoned. However, aged monu- that by1975itwasalmostcompletely aban- Indochina War bombarded duringtheSecond invaders,and Vietnamese thensoheavily was ravaged inthe19thcenturybyChinese The region’s ancientcapital, Muang Khoun 4000 pop §¼¤¢¸¾¤À¡ (OldXiengKhuang) Khoun Muang the ‘RussianTank’, exaggerates theappeal. itsnickname, Nakho: atBan roadside copse rusting remnant of anarmoured vehicle ina thelumpy at Site 3andaquickstoptosee (p 191 ). Mostthrowinanoodle-souplunch one of regular several guidedminibustours Alternatively, before signupthenight tojoin hours, whileSite 1iswithinbicyclerange. motorbike fromPhonsavan inaroundfive All three mainsites couldbevisited byrented Getting There &Away walk acrossricefieldsandup. a littlewoodenfootbridge thena10-minute restaurant.pleasant Thejars are by accessed 1.8km. Theticket boothisbesideasimplebut the Siteafter 3carparkisunsignedtotheright you’ve come400mtoofar. Khai WithinLat pole –ifyoureach XiangDi’spetrolstation and jarsymbolspray-painted onanelectricity SiangDii).Theonly‘sign’isared(Ban ‘III’ motorbike repair hutjustbefore XiangDi Ban leadseastbesideatiny Khai access roadtoLat village. Khai woodland above The Lat Ban 10,000K) refreshments are available here. of layered hills,paddiesandcow-fields. No ofset jars sitsonagrassyknollwithpanoramas tree hasmanaged another togrow.Totheright look foracracked which stoneurnthrough a wet conditions.Totheleftinthinwoodlands, ticket deskinwhatbecomesamuddyslither 700mfromthe forms theaccesslane. Thatrises 194 Site 2 Site Te 150-jar The areThe mainhistoric sights atrioof grass- XIENG KHUANG &HUA ••AroundPhonsavan PHAN PROVINCES sitsonascenichillsideinthin,pretty (Hai Hin PhuSalato;admission10,000K) (Hai Hin ‰ ¾(À´ Site 3 Site Û º¤£ Þ $)

(Hai Hin Lat Khai; admission LatKhai; (Hai Hin isapair 464, 030-517 1872; Km 29, Rte 10;r40,000-80,000K) 464, 030-5171872;Km29,Rte whiplash smile. an age-greyed, shell-shocked Buddhawitha columnsphotogenically frame raid. Butthese 1966bombing adevastating columns survived platformandafewing, justthebase brick Wat southjustbefore Km30afterswerves former Phuan prince’spalace(500m)and theshattered passes guesthouse ruinsof a tine peaksandforests. from thisangle,appears tobelostamidpris- tower, lookbacktoadmire ThatFounwhich, ChomPhet That nants of theCham-built 16th-centurystupa ridge trackbringsyoutothestubbierrem- within. Five minutes’ walkaroundtheeasy to lootthepricelessBuddharelics enshrined HawChinese marauders, whotunnelledin aholethatwasmadeby19th-century through tinct leantoitsspire andyoucanclimbright style. Itnowhasadis- Xang/Lanna the Lan andbuiltin That Chomsi)isaround25mtall row footpath.The1576 peteringsite outintoanar- theguesthouse, the brick-and-mudlanethatclimbsoppo- other twoare via onafacingridge, accessed rebuilt active monastery, behind inthegroundsof thecolourfully plus thethree mainjarsites inone longday. torbike it’spossibleto visit MuangKhoun depart at8am,11am, 2pmand5pm.Bymo- toPhonsavan (10,000K, 45minutes)Buses THERE&AWAYGETTING limited menu,butBiispeakssomeEnglish. water. familyrestaurant Thepleasant hasa andhot toilet. The80,000Kversion adds TV withbucketacceptable mandiandensuite boxes butthe60,000Kroomsare newand 40,000K roomsare shabbyhardboardcoffin- option is loveable dogs,thetown’soneaccommodation little gardenareaIn apleasant roamedby SLEEPING &EATING point forthePhakeo trek (p 195 ). asthestarting commercial facilitiesthat’sused BanThalin and finallydead-endssome12kmbeyondat 5km. Thisroadbecomesincreasingly difficult the small,very degraded from the Khoun Guesthouse. Oneisdirectly Guesthouse. from theKhoun The mainroadcontinuingeastfromthe The unpaved roadcontinuingeastpasses . OfWatPhia Wat’soriginal1582build- , aninteresting village withoutany Khoun Guesthouse & Restaurant Guesthouse &Restaurant Khoun . Near the tall communications . Nearthetall That Foun That Jar Site 16 Jar Site Wat SiPhoum lonelyplanet.com (alsocalled after around ( Wat Phia Wat Phia % . The . The 212 NORTHERN LAOS is Nam 195 Sengdeuan Handicrafts (Ban Chomthong, Km 188)

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kao lam, kao Central If you’re driving the bumpy road towards driving the bumpy If you’re a market and a couple of guesthouses. The and a couple of a market these is the once attractive of better Guesthouse 60,000/70,000K) about 700m south of Rte 7, turning at Km 7, turning Rte about 700m south of impressive An Phonsavan). 165 (27km east of drops into a nearby valley waterfall multistep around 2km south (ask for directions). & AROUND KHAM MUANG 500m past Km 178 Lurking at the toll gate to kids compete Phonsavan), (43km east of sell bean. with coconut and red rice sweetened 700m past Km 185 (2.5km west of Located central Muang Kham), Group a small display on fabrics and have fair-priced natural dyestuffs. of the minor attractions along these routes of waits and/or lengthy easily warrant the long necessary to access them using walks that are public transport. infrequent extremely BOMB VILLAGE & WATERFALL In many Lao settlements you’ll find the odd el- war debris but the Hmong ‘recycled’ ement of Peng Ban Tha Jok/Na Kam of double-village than most, hence the nickname has more Although has been much ‘Bomb Village’. sold for scrap you can still see cluster-bomb rice barns, the legs of casings used to make and, planting pots for herbs, barbecue braziers fence. in one case, a whole over-engineered The main concentration lies in minor lanes Vietnam it’s more pleasant to stay at the Vietnam it’s more little more than a highway trading post with little more Of course. People are careful. But it’s not always But it’s not always careful. are Of People course. for its abundance of everyday items made from war scrap. war scrap. items made from of everyday for its abundance It sounds easy, but in fact the villagers moved here after the the after here but in fact It sounds easy, the villagers moved PROVINCES PHAN •• Around Phonsavan & HUA XIENG KHUANG

The anonymous interviewee lives in Ban Tha Jok/Na Kam Peng, a village in rural Xieng Khuang known rural a village in Jok/Na Kam Peng, in Ban Tha anonymous interviewee lives The LOCAL VOICES – RESIDENT OF NA KAM PENG, ‘BOMB VILLAGE’ ‘BOMB PENG, NA KAM RESIDENT OF VOICES – LOCAL living in ‘Bomb Village’? Isn’t it dangerous enough. Two of my young cousins were killed just last year. They knew not to play with bombies – play with bombies – knew not to They killed of my young cousins were enough. Two just last year. of was a child from out ] training – but there 190 [Mines p Advisory Group, all had MAG we’ve by the toy-like ball. But fascinated unknown. I guess he was dangers were For him the the area. him. and took my cousins with it blew him up elsewhere? move Why don’t you Of course, back then is relative. Everything dangerous. more even that was war from somewhere collecting was money to be made war scrap and at least there was devastated, when everything electricity too, and they road, there’s close to the And now, well, we are selling it to dealers. years. some day, though that will still take a few pipe in clean water might even Towards Vietnam & Sam Neua of Phoulao (aka Ban Ko Hing), where the the (aka Ban Phoulao Ko Hing), where of road to Sam Neua continues east, attractive the Hintang archaeo- passing within 6km of Saloei ) and right by Tat 202 logical ‘park’ (p not driving, none ). However, you’re if 202 (p asphalted Rte 6 strikes north via Nam Neun 6 strikes Rte asphalted (two guesthouses) to the tiny junction village Rte 7 east of Phonsavan runs to the to the runs Phonsavan 7 east of Rte Vietnamese border via the ‘Bomb Village’ At Muang Kham, narrow but and Nong Haet. cascades of a multi-terraced waterfall to arrive to arrive waterfall a multi-terraced cascades of in the famous ‘Bomb Village’. next day, the hike descends into attractive descends into attractive next day, the hike semi-agricultural then climbs up the valleys vides a basic sleeping platform with space vides a basic sleeping platform with space no electricity. The There’s for eight hikers. homes huddle around a central rocky knoll. A guest-shack pro- Hmong-style purpose-built descends into the roadless Hmong village of of descends into the roadless Hmong village mud-floor whose shingle-roofed Ban Phakeo, ancient jars and jar fragments, many moss- ancient jars then The trek and shaded by foliage. encrusted experience. On the long first day, hike across day, hike On the long first experience. to a mountain ridges secondary forested 400 over with a total of jar site three-part (p 191 ), this excellent two-day trek combines trek ), this excellent two-day 191 (p the Xieng Khuangmany essential elements of Organised through Phonsavan agencies agencies throughOrganised Phonsavan bikes were struggling to get through. struggling to get were bikes Phakeo Trek fectively impassable, buses had beenfectively stuck days in axle-deep mud and even trail for three On maps, Rte 10/3908 appears to link Muang 10/3908 appears On maps, Rte via That Thom and a daily Khoun to Paksan bus is timetabled that way from Phonsavan. that road was ef-However, during research lonelyplanet.com NORTHERN LAOS minutes’ walk away in pleasant woodlands. minutes’ walk awayinpleasant piped fromunexotic hot springsthatliefive air-con andabath.Intothis,warmwater is best roomshere have bamboothatch walls, then continue5.5kmdownaspurroad.The east of –turnsouthatKm204 MuangKham lane thatheadswestfromthemainroadat toventurewould beuseful alittledeeper. into themaincavern butatorch (flashlight) toallownaturallight mouth iswideenough unsophisticated memorialcairns.Thecave damage whilethefloorislittered bysmall, stillshowssignsofobvious stairway, smoke incident. Thecave, ten minutes’ climbviaan ments aren’t directly related totheTham Piu and itscollectionof photosandbombfrag- little informationtogive meaningtoavisit inthecarparkadds but thesmallmuseum tional resonance. ispretty Todaythesetting the cave andthesite stillholdsmajor emo- planefiredwhen aUSfighter arocket into war. Hundreds diedhere inNovember 1968 American bombers duringtheIndochina a cave where villagers protection sought from is cliffside intoonesuch limestone rock-faces. Carved wall of abruptwoodedridges andexposed animposingNorth of rises Muang Kham «Õ² is includedintheticket price. waters.in themeeting Use of abathingladle bathing temperature byadjustingyourplace rily acrossattractive rapids.Findtheperfect rators thenflowsintoariver thatgurgles mer- gridof lowconcreteinto awaffle-shaped sepa- Vietnam road.Scaldinghotwater tricklesout east of then700msouthof MuangKham the Nam HongNoi Hone Resort 196 TA PIU THAM For more accessiblehotsprings,visit The site is2.6kmupadegradedasphalt with ample time to connect withthe8pm Hanoinight-bus.with ample timetoconnect Xén hasabasichotel around 4pm,whichshouldreach andabustoVinh ConCuông departing taxisare fromthe borderbutpaidhitchingormotorbike apossibility.Mu’òngno publictransport From theVietnam side,21kmofhairpinswinddown to thefirstsmalltown,Mu’òngXén.There’s Phonsavan (40,000K,fourhours)and a The to nearest townonthe LaosideisNongHaet,13kmwest,withuptofourdailybusservices lonely Direct busestoVinh fromPhonsavan (fourweekly)and Luang Prabang(twiceweekly)crossthe CROSSING THEVIETNAMESE BORDERAT NAM CAN&NAM KHAN † ¸ XIENG KHUANG &HUA Neua) ••SamNeua(Xam PHAN PROVINCES Nam Can/Nam Khanborder Tham Piu Tham

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To New Wat Construction Site (400m) ‚ ket displayed cut open to show the freshness of of displayed cut open to show the freshness meats, some rather startling. Field rats are meats, some rather startling. Field rats are clothing. gear. Tucked away near the back, some stalls Tucked gear. ethnic-style replica hawk gaudy collections of goods. However, some fabric stalls here stock goods. However, some fabric stalls here sell antique and jewellers textiles, regional used for tribal head- coins and silverware with Chinese and Vietnamese consumer fountains and a frieze full of communist tri- fountains full of and a frieze umphalist soldiers. jewel’. However, the effect is unintention- half-heartedally comic with its backing of Neua’s folk-song image as an ‘indestructible Neua’s folk-song image lonelyplanet.com

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3333 3333 NORTHERN LAOS US$1-1.50; the foodmarket. especially alongtheriverside laneleadingto small foyerlooksunfinishedbutcompact com; s/d/tw120,000/150,000/200,000K; a longlist of breakfast options. Thesuper- is supplemented pancakes bysandwiches, and 9pm) mains 15,000-27,000K, sandwiches 8000-12,000K; chips (20,000K). breakfast omelettes with (8000K)andbeef friendly menuincludescornflakes (5000K), chilly butitsrelatively atnight traveller- hasnospecialcharmtaurant andcanget ( identify localmorsels are soldfrom Cheap Eating sun-room onthefourthfloor. the guestcomputer inthecuriousall-window don’t have alaptoptoenjoyin-roomwi-fi, use plenty of communalsittingspaceandifyou motifs.There’s woods adornedwithcarved new roomsare wellfurnishedinsturdy,pale from urban. offers viewsacrossriceterraces thatfeel far but floorhasnoseating space onthesecond fridge andkettle. Thelarge communalbalcony good, newbedsandmostroomscomewith attractively patterned patchwork quiltsgrace justsouthof whereguesthouse thehospital 100,000/150,000K) Mattresses couldbethicker. lead uptoneatroomswithOKbathrooms. Varnishedily guesthouse. palewoodstairs newfam- welcome guestsintothispleasant of plasticflowers andaHoChiMinhportrait ous mixture chairs, of heavy bouquets carved are available. transferspin-up girl.Airportandbusstation is thedemurely smilingfaceof acalendar soleadornment roomswhose no-nonsense pastel-hued, cornerhotel offers goodvalue 50,000/70,000K) bathroom 30,000K,rwithbath/TV market. with manybudget tothe optionslyingclose There are intown, aroundtwentyguesthouses Sleeping 198 h DanaomuangxamRestaurant Khongmany IndianRestaurant Khongmany Hotel Misouk ShuliyoGuesthouse Guesthouse Kheamxam Samneua Hotel SamneuaHotel dawn-dusk) Decorissimplebut thegreat Indianfood XIENG KHUANG &HUA Neua) ••SamNeua(Xam PHAN PROVINCES f h ǒ e, samosas andmanyharder-to- samosas 7am-9.30pm) opposite themainmarket and Alarge, newpeach-coloured ( % ( % ( % 314 777;snhotel_08@yahoo. Thissimple,box res- 314 555;rsmall/large 312 462;r70,000K)

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Vientiane (790,000K)onTuesday,Thursday h ing thereverberant clatter of thiscavernous friedtofuChinese dishmakes itworthbrav- with fairy lights, thisthatchedwith fairylights, pavilion AIR &Away There Getting revellers. Thai hip-hopforcrammed-together teenage spot, thisone-roomclubpumpsoutmostly meat mealsare available. of thecentre, 500mbefore theairport.Grilled petang development. paddies have yettobeswallowedbyurban green heartwhere alarge patch of centralrice restaurant-bar overlooks SamNeua’scurious at thefollowing. Don’t assumeyou’llfindanyEnglishspeakers &Entertainment Drinking of Pepsi cans. hazard decorrevolves arounddisplaycases cloths have nailedintoplaceandhap- been concrete-box restaurant where vinyltable- change.mation. Locationmight helpful ownerisagreat sourceof localinfor- Vieng Thong (40,000K,six hours), Nong via An additional8am Vientianebusgoes Phonsavan (10hours) at9am,noonand2pm. leave toVientiane(135,000K,22hours) via the ViengThong road.Fromhere buses south of thecentralmonument,justoff isonahilltop1.2kmThe mainstation Main busstation tourist mapsandnoticeboards. don’trelytainly printed on ontimetables change frequently sodouble check andcer- SchedulesSam Neuahastwobusstations. BUS reliable. Phonsavan/Xieng airportismore Khuang cancelled justhalfanhourbefore departure. and Saturday.Alltoofrequently get theflights Air Lao Capricorn tral of thecentre towardsViengXai.Atinycen- Sam Neua’slittle HappyNightclub Xay Mee SalabeerAnny ChittavanhRestaurant 7am-9.30pm) agency-shop strips, this pleasantly rusticbarisout strips,thispleasantly ( % Savouring adelicious15,000K (http://laocapricornair.net) 020-9986 6139) ( % ( % Themostcentraldance- Nathong Airfield 020-234 6106) 020-5566 4044)

( % 312 265;mains30,000K; Featuring twin lonelyplanet.com sells tickets sells for is3kmeast Twinkling flights to flights NORTHERN LAOS 199 7am-6pm) h (to the left around 312 255; % ( , just before which there’s an there’s which , just before Buddha cave motorcycle shop Ban Tham you board it’s advisable to prepurchase your you board it’s advisable to prepurchase at the main bus station or risk paying ticket 11km to inconsequential But more and shop). the school 100m before around 4km valleys rice terrace appealing are vil- two picturesque Sam Neua where out of old sport spindly each across the river lages Returning from Thanh Hoa (8am), tickets Returning from Thanh Hoa (8am), tickets are should cost 200,000 dong but foreigners for significantly more. asked often MOTORCYCLE A central at 60,000K per low-quality motorbikes rents day. AROUND SAM NEUA It doesn’t effort into some much take to get around Sam Neua. timeless rural villages For random motorcycle trips you might try heading south from the hospital for a few or heading north up the unpaved kilometres Wat to the right-hand side of lane directly winds its way after The latter Phoxaysanalam. very considerably more than the true fare. than the true fare. considerably more very (290,000K) still to Hanoi ‘Through tickets’ bus. you change go via Thanh Hoa where to Vieng Xai ew ǎ wngth ǎ S PROVINCES PHAN Neua •• Around Sam & HUA XIENG KHUANG Cluster-bomb casings, which were not themselves explosive, have meanwhile found a wide found a wide meanwhile have explosive, not themselves casings, which were Cluster-bomb if it appears to be an exhibit in to touch it. Even any war debris don’t be tempted If you find UXO & WAR JUNK UXO in world history. bombed nation most heavily became the wars, Laos the Indochina During of combat uncountable scraps today, Xieng Khuang hard-hit and even was especially province including mortar (unexploded ordnance), deadly ‘UXO’ potentially Much of it is debris remain. Some of and assorted bombs. targets) (used to mark bomb phosphorous canisters shells, white torpedo-shaped bombs, 1.5m-long packages cluster UXO comes from the most problematic of 670 in mid-air, scattering designed to split open lengthwise metal casing was evil whose outer disturbed, a bombie would Once area. 5000-sq-metre a (‘bombies’) over bomblets tennis-ball-size pellets likeexplode, projecting bullets killing Almost 30 steel around within a 20m radius. anyone ceased, roughly one person a day is still killed bombing 40 years after UXO in Xieng Khuang. by danger to in the land, causing an ever-present embedded of millions of bombies remain Tens And who fatally mistake them for playthings. to young children, builders, farmers and especially to collect UXO to sell as scrap metal has the economic temptation villagers, for impoverished it would efforts, valiant ongoing clearance rates Despite at current caused numerous fatalities. years to deal with the problem. 150 take an estimated fea- as architectural reused In some places you can see them new uses. positive range of more pots for growing spring onions or simply as troughs, ), feeding 195 p text, (see the boxed tures or hotels. ornaments around houses defused and been properly display war junk that’s never that some hotels a collection, beware dangerous, Laos’s legal code makes and to it illegal live if it isn’t Even explosive. might remain in a any old weaponry can result sale or theft of any kind. of Purchase, trade in war leftovers years. of between six months and five prison term To Vietnam station around 7.05am, trawls around the station trawls around the around 7.05am, at the passengers then collects more market Nathong bus station around 8am. Wherever It currently starts from outside the Indian It currently at 7am, swings up to the main bus restaurant A bus (sometimes minibus) departs daily to A bus (sometimes minibus) Thanh Hoa in Vietnam (180,000K, 11 hours). three hours), Sam Tai (Xamtay) at 9.30am Sam Tai hours), three at and Sop Hao to six hours) (34,000K, five 8am and 1pm (19,000K, 2½ hours). tight. Other services ‘Nameo’ (actually include the Nam Soi border post) at 8am (20,000K, time, the 8am service you there might just get tour, but it’s very caves just in time for the first leave five times daily, currently at 8am, 10am, currently times daily, five leave bang on 11am, 2.30pm and 4pm. If it leaves most edge of town. of most edge Nathong Bus Station The Nathong bus station is 1km beyond the airport on the Vieng Xai road at the eastern- Luang Prabang (7.30am) duplicate parts of parts of Luang Prabang (7.30am) duplicate the same route. (110,000K, 17 hours) and Vang Vieng. Vieng. and Vang (110,000K, 17 hours) Minibuses to Vieng Thong (7.20am) and Khiaw Luang Prabang (80,000K, 13 hours), lonelyplanet.com NORTHERN LAOS office market, akey feature forvisitors isthe eral karst outcrops. Around1kmsouthof the with man-madelakes, trees, flowers andsev- ofhouses Kaysone’s interspersed 1973‘capital’ the quiet,wideavenues andwell-spaced busy market area. thetownretains Beyond, Twin roadsrun 1kmsouthoff Rte 3tothe ORIENTATION &INFORMATION fromthecoldwarperiod. have survived world’s mostcomplete to revolutionary bases time roles,makingthecomplexoneof the cave sites stillretain visiblesignsof theirwar- ing here. Decades later, manyof ViengXai’s president whileinhid- thesecretthat hadbeen codenameof future Territories. ThetownwasnamedViengXaias ofde factocapital thePathet Liberated Lao’s here. untilDecember1975,itwasthe Indeed, tatively emerge andconstructasmall town 1973 ceasefire allowedtherefugees toten- tory. After almostadecadeinthecaves, the markets fac- hospitals, ametalwork andeven on, cave sites cametohostprintingworks, shelter upto23,000people. As thewardragged tems, over 450of which cameto eventually retreated intothevastly expanded cave sys- ing them,norwhy.Still,forsafety, theytoo locals initiallyhadnoideaof whowasattack- lessly bombarded.Horrifiedandbemused, momentum, surroundingvillages were merci- the area’s caves. As Wargathered theUSSecret upresidencehinterland, taking eventually in leadership toretreat intotheHuaPhan deep inVientianeledthe Pathetsassinations Lao 1963, politicalrepression andaspate of as- forests andtoweringkarst outcrops.Butin peacefullyhere,Ko sat ancient lostamiddeep For centuriestheminusculehamletof Long HISTORY pelling historyinstead of happytubing. history. ImagineVang Vieng,butwithcom- unlucky20th-century about northernLaos’s and offer atrulygrippingopportunitytolearn caves’ are amiddramatickarst set outcrops Vieng Xai’sthought-provoking ‘bomb-shelter % ¸¼¤Ä§ Xai Vieng (p 202 ) viaTat (p Saloei 202 ). could day-triptoViengXai.OrHintang greying stupas.Withadecentmotorbike you 200 064 /pop9000

XIENG KHUANG &HUA ••AroundSamNeua PHAN PROVINCES (Vieng XaiCavesVisiting Centre; (Vieng % 314 321,020-266 caves caves which organises allcave visits,rents bicycles, piece isparticularlymemorable. Hendrixesque soundtracktotheAirAmerica andaccompanyingmusic–the sound effects andisenlivened with from localsurvivors production incorporates originalinterviews professionalismsheer ismind-boggling. The you’reelse likely the toencounter inLaos, thewaryears.through Compared toanything of on cinating glimpse howpeoplestruggled offering amoving, balancedanduniquelyfas- ground informationandhistoricalcontext, audioguide gives of masses first-hand back- can answeryourquestions.Meanwhile, an scenery. Alocalguideunlockseach site and natural gardensandbacked byfabulouskarst Allare inbeautifulyetverytion heroes. set war buildingsassociated withmajor libera- complexes, 1970spost- alongwithseveral war-shelter mostimportant Xai’s seven cave mission 60,000K) Joining atrulyfascinating18-point The Cave Tour SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES iconography. full of bustsandassorted socialist oldLenin information board.There’s adisplaycase even has maps,asmallbook-exchange andauseful 9022; www.visit-viengxay.com; that was used asawedding hall, cinemaand that was used the ing Americanplanes. Thetourculminates in open ledge spotters would watch for incom- soldiers. Above is the hundredshoused of conscripted liberation extensive naturalcaverns thatwouldhave SiphandoneCave Khamtay unadorned ifyouwanttotraversea torch (flashlight) the main cave sites are wellilluminated but bring famous‘RedPrince’.Almostallthe of Laos’s above the two rocket-impact holesinthekarst outcrop the of bamboo-framed viewsof townfromtheledge circulation pumpinworkingorder. Enjoy the occurredtacks buttheemergency roomof possible chemical No such at- orgasattacks. signed toprotect toppolitburomembers from air-locked concrete caves-within-caves de- furnishings. Somehave ‘emergency rooms’, Most caves have minorelementsof original Steps leaddownfrom thehand-dug Xanglot Cave Xanglot Kaysone Phomvihane Cave Phomvihane Kaysone Nouhak Phoumsavan Cave Nouhak Phoumsavan Cave hospital cave is the only way to see Vieng istheonlywaytosee , awidedouble-ended cavern Artillery Cave Artillery (occasionallyflooded). h tothe 8-11.30am &1-4.30pm) stillhasitsair- , oncethehideout lonelyplanet.com andlookfor Barracks Caves from whose fromwhose tour (ad-

, , NORTHERN LAOS

Ban 201 020-5571 020-5571 % ( Nam Sam NPA

(Xamtay), famous , a thatched open-sided open-sided , a thatched Sam Tai where knives and agricul- knives where specialise in basket-making specialise in basket-making Thavisay Restaurant shops in the market serve market shops in the rice to Sam Neua (10,000K, 50 min- to Sam Neua (10,000K, e ǒ f ew (Km 144.5) ǎ ‘steel cave’ is good and the lemongrass soup is the lemongrass soup is good and làap Turn south at Km 164 for the recently as- Turn south at Km 164 for the recently Several wngth ǎ beyond is not currently permitted. beyond is not currently SAM TO NONG KHIAW NEUA 6 runs along wind- From Sam Neua, Rte passing Hintang ing mountain ridges ) and meeting 202 (p Park Archaeological 1 at minuscule Phoulao Rte Phonsavan-bound backing bucolic valleys layered with rice ter- backing bucolic valleys layered races. Several including route en villages Piang Ban at Km and bamboo crafts. Across the river 169 is a almost industrial made on an tural tools were scale during the Second War (and, Indochina too). a decade afterwards for over incredibly, neither sign nor access bridge Today there’s is to be but eventually the site across the river developed as an historical attraction. spur road to phalted It has a for producing magnificent textiles. guesthouses like should you feel couple of track to investi- the beaten well off getting Public access to the remote gate. Thanh Hoa (one bus daily to each) bypass to each) Thanh Hoa (one bus daily north but will usu- Vieng Xai 1km to the Vieng Xai by Visiting ally stop on request. tuk-tuk from Sam Neua costs around rented per vehicle. 250,000K return SAM TO VIETNAM NEUA to Vietnam. Two roads lead from Sam Neua looks most Hao via Sop On a map the route the and it’s unpaved promising but in reality border crossing is for locals only. However, via fascinating Vieng Xai is the scenic route open to all nationalities, Vietnamese visas and offers permitting. It’s narrow but paved best incorporate varied views. The of a feast outcrop karst tree-dappled of giant teeth to dine is the to dine 15,000-40,000K)8474; mains the Thavisay near lakeside on the perched bones but of over-full are Fish dishes Hotel. the especially refreshing. around 5pm. noodle dishes till and cheap GETTING & AWAY THERE S 7am, 10am, 1pm, at approximately leave utes) Buses be- market. 2.30pm and 4pm from the Nam Soi or tween Sam Tai, Sam Neua and pavilion with associated bamboo stilt-booths bamboo stilt-booths associated with pavilion 020-5571 4106; 020-5571 4106; was due to open % (

314 330, 020-5521 0788; r Despite a peaceful, Despite is an 80m waterfall, is an 80m waterfall, % (

Awkwardly located on the Awkwardly located ‘market cave’ (r 40,000K)

PROVINCES PHAN Sam Neua to Vietnam •• & HUA XIENG KHUANG Tat Nam Neua Tat Opposite the caves office, Vieng Xai’s Vieng Xai’s office, the caves Opposite Thavisay Hotel Naxay 2 Guesthouse Xah Cha Lern Guesthouse Tours start 1pm from the at 9am and Tours EATING virtually hibernated. The most attractive place The most attractive virtually hibernated. 10.30pm or ‘all night’, in reality many have many have 10.30pm or ‘all night’, in reality food by 8pm. By 9pm the town has run out of While several places claim to stay open till Beds are comfy, water heaters work and the heaters Beds comfy, water are has a menu pavilion cafe attached beach-style actu- are the items of in English, though few ally available. lined bungalows around a patch of greenery greenery of lined bungalows around a patch split-toothed crag. by an impressive backed 60,000K) new, bamboo- most comfortable offers option Cold, characterless rooms have floors of loose of floors rooms have Cold, characterless high and tiles or ripped vinyl but ceilings are just mightthe water run warm…eventually. tractive lake, this two-storey 1974 eyesore has 1974 eyesore this two-storey lake, tractive hospital. psychiatric a Soviet of all the charm crag-backed location near the town’s most at- crag-backed but relatively fresh in a peach-coloured new in a peach-coloured fresh but relatively just mats rooms offer house. The cheapest on the floor. main Sam Neua–Vietnam road 1km north of main Sam Neua–Vietnam road 1km north of small rooms are the ensuite Vieng Xai market, 20,000/40,000/60,000K) the development of other cave sites. sites. other cave the development of planned, a new 18-room ‘boutique ecolodge’ ‘boutique ecolodge’ planned, a new 18-room help fund to profits should eventually provide SLEEPING as half a dozen options. If built are There in 2010. Sam Neua road. around 6km west near the Other sites A newly restored office) and that you’ll listen to the longer audio to the longer office) and that you’ll listen between rather the sites tracks while travelling play. pressing before than waiting to arrive rushed, assuming you rent a bicycle (available rushed, assuming you rent from the caves for 10,000/20,000K per tour/day ability. Seeing hours in the three all 18 sites undulyis possible without feeling available mount productions here during the war. here mount productions visits are private By arrangement office. caves an extra at other times (costing also possible avail- group) depending on guide 50,000K per even as a theatre. Incredibly, performers from performers Incredibly, even theatre. as a to all managed Vietnam China and Russia, lonelyplanet.com r with bathroom 60,000K, s/tw/tr without bathroom r with bathroom 60,000K, s/tw/tr without bathroom NORTHERN LAOS parisons to Britain’s Stonehengeparisons to Britain’s overplay the are over ametre indiameter. Misleading com- that formerlycovered funerarysites. Some areto 3mtall interspersed with up years uprights old.Spindly, rough-hewn of famous jars, thisunique,unfenced collection moreAlmost asmysterious asXiengKhuang’s ¦¸$¹ (Suan Hin) Park Archaeological Hintang tor centre and walkingtrailshere. westbound. There are avisi- planstodevelop (ie 36kmfromSamNeua),buteasytomiss 1kmaftereastbound Rte Km55 6roughly drop of almost100m.It’sbrieflyvisiblefrom pressive of series cascadesformsacombined Also knownasPhonesai Waterfall, thisim- Saloei Tat superb scenery. many kilometres andoffers of someglimpses lasts The longdescenttowardsNongKhiaw about50kmeastof settlement Nong Khiaw. en route ariver-spanning is ViengKham, The onlyotherplacewithaccommodation a decentplacetobreak thelongjourney. visited from ViengThong,which alsomakes of theNamEt/Phou LoueyNPA. That’sbest ily deforested untilreaching theboundary green becomemuch mountains more heav- simplest of shop-shacks.Westof Phoulao the there’s andonlythe noformalguesthouse ellers have managed tofindabedhere but where kilometre markingsreset. Sometrav- Hing), 92kmwestof Kho SamNeua, (Ban 202 standing stones Yên TrangHotel on theVietnamese sidewhere ofaccommodationincludestherelatively aselection swishnew If you’re crossingthe CROSSING THEVIETNAMESE BORDERAT NAMEO&NAM SOI Sam Neua,Vieng Thong orNongKhiaw. s fromthe11.30am apart restaurant shacksbutnoaccommodationandwaitingtransport scrupulous operatorswhoseemintent youintown. onkeeping hours). However, fromtheVietnamese organising sideiscomplicated onwardtransport byun- at11.30pmandarrivingantisociallyearlyaround4am. there’s anighttraintoHanoideparting see p 199 ) whichpassesclosetoVieng Xai butdoesn’tenter town.Onceyou’re inThanh Hoa, thedirect optionistotake busbetweenSamNeuaandThanh Hoa(nowdaily,est transport ǎ wngth XIENG KHUANG &HUA ••SamNeuatoNongKhiaw PHAN PROVINCES Be sure currency tocarrysufficientconvertible ifarrivinginLaosthisway:there’s noATM in Westbound, note thattheLaoborderpost(NamSoi)isn’tatown.There’s atrioofsimple It’s quite possibletoreach theborderby the8amNaMeo Ø $ ǎ ew toSamNeua. Ifyou’re later thanthat,itmightbewisetosleepinbiggerNaMeo is thought tobeatleast1500 isthought ( % Nam Soi/NaMeo border Vietnam-37-359 2511) stone disks .

(Km 175; village withoutanyfacilities. main site is right besidethetrackaftermain site 6km, isright cably muddyforvehicles after anyrain.The from SamNeua. Thistrackcanbeimpracti- around 800mbeyondtheobviousradiomast south fromRte 6at of theLuangPrabangking. great cityhere were thwarted bythecunning Hata giantcalledBa planstobuild a whose originally cutusingamagicaxe wieldedby Local mythologyclaimsthatthestoneswere nominated forUnescoWorldHeritage status. have magicandthegrouphasbeen acertain visual appealbutthe‘families’of stonesdo 8km south of Phoulao inpleasant past. Ifyoudon’twant anovernighter, hopoff last Phonsavan/Vientiane–bound busrumbles have aroundsix hours forthewalkbefore the with theViengThong–bound minibusyou’ll SamNeuaandPhonsavan between –starting Practicalities workoutbestifyou’re visiting port you’llhave towalkand fromRte 6. slow detourtothemainsite. Bypublictrans- Udomxai, allowtwohours extrafor thevery SamNeuaandeither Phonsavanbetween or around 450,000Kreturn. Ifyou’re driving back ontoRte 6at If youdon’tget lost,thetrailshouldemerge Nakham. ger trackthatdescendstowardsBan trail. Take thenarrow risingpath,notthebig- den alongapartiallymarked two-hour hiking outlesser-knownseek megalithgroupshid- Trail road, anorange signpointstothe summit. Some2kmbacktowardsthemain Chartered tuk-tuksfromSamNeuawant rutted trackthatcuts Access isuparough, , which allowsmore intrepid visitors to h s 7.30-11.30am &1.30-4.30pm) ǎ wngth ǎ ew BanTao Hin fromSamNeua(three Ban Phao Ban Phao lonelyplanet.com (Km 35.3)

(Km 31.5) , theeasi- Keohintang Keohintang Nam Neun , 57km , atiny

NORTHERN LAOS 203 810 017; 810 017; % (

) share 4200 4200 ) share . At first glance . At first 810 005; r without/with % (

New but very functional New but very hot spring area . Approximately half is an inacces- . Approximately Paramesotriton laoensis Paramesotriton The most appealing of Vieng Thong’s The most appealing of tigers Ten minutes walk further towards Muang further towards Muang walk minutes Ten Dok Khoun Thong Guesthouse by ingenious camera-traps dotted around the dotted camera-traps by ingenious at http://programs.wcs.org/ online park (also r 50,000K) protected ‘school forest’ behind, the scene has forest’ ‘school protected aspect with a steaming lovelier an altogether meandering through an emerald green stream boulders. granite with little clearing dotted is sulphurous water In places the bubbling, and clouds of scalding hot (so don’t touch!) annoying but the setting is can prove midges Big grand older trees. amid some attractive the site afoot to totally redevelop plans are coming years. over SLEEPING & EATING Dokchampa Guesthouse bathroom 30,000/50,000K) laoswildlifephotoexhibition). The office at is town, 700m beyond of edge the northwestern (Nam Khao) – cross the river area the market right 197immediately at Km 1, turn on Rte taking (Meuagper) unsurfaced Muang Pur the 200m left up the immediately road, then swing access lane. Pur is a little seems but a half-there to be nothing here and a seriesdemolished brick building of a scum-rimmed of bathing pipes leading out pond. However, if you wander back into the rooms with mosquito nets and limited or no rooms with mosquito nets and limited natural light.

, rare civets, Asian Golden Cats, river otters, white-cheeked otters, river Cats, Golden Asian civets, , rare , is on the . which is build- . which Nam Et/Phou Louey That Hiam PROVINCES PHAN Khiaw •• Sam Neua to Nong & HUA XIENG KHUANG National National Protected 810 008; [email protected], www.namet 810 008; [email protected], (see the boxed text, below). These text, (see the boxed % (

8am-noon & 1-4.30pm Mon-Fri) Trips are organised through the NPA office in Vieng Thong but contacting well in ad- them Thong office in Vieng through the NPA organised Trips are h 064 / pop 4000 vance is advisable since there’s a limit of two departures per week. vance is advisable since there’s Tour costs (US$80/100 per food and camping equipment, with people) include guides, cooks, person in groups of five/two price also includes The funds. a significant proportion village development going into of the fee on Rte boat ride from Ban Sonkhua, 1. Getting Thong the 90-minute around 50km east of Vieng or to Ban Sonkhua Thong public minibus from Vieng (not included) is possible on the morning arrangements with the organisers. to discuss travel but be sure Phonsavan sible core zone. The remainder includes 98 ethnic minority hamlets, to some of which treks may may minority hamlets, to some of which treks includes 98 ethnic remainder The zone. sible core being pioneered Since 2010, two-day wildlife-watching excursions are be organised. eventually and a campsite where Nam Nern field station, a roadless former village site to the park’s remote Highlights of the trip include of UXO. cleared surrounding walking been professionally trails have hikes boat ride ‘spotlighting’ for animals and day-time guided learning about wildlife a night-time hope of spotting Sambar and more tiger is unlikely Actually but there’s tracking. seeing a live a small payment – a cleverly Barking Deer and for each significant sighting, nearby villages receive against poachers. actively scheme that encourages the local population to work thought-out sq km of relatively pristine forests with around a dozen around a dozen with pristine forests sq km of relatively NAM NAM ET/PHOU LOUEY NPA In this vast crested gibbons and the utterly unique Laotian warty and the utterly newt ( gibbons crested .org; This centre. ing a new Vieng Thong visitors’ about the park’s will allow you to learn more programs and protection wildlife imaginative animal photos snappedto peruse remarkable are organised through organised the are office NPA ing point to look for them on newly initiated ‘tiger treks’ survive, deep in the enormous Nam Et/Phou Thong is the main start- but Vieng Louey NPA, rounding forests. These days barely a dozen still These days barely rounding forests. refer to Vieng Thong by its original name to Vieng Thong by its original name refer Daeng word a Tai Muang Hiam. Coming from out’, that was highly suitablemeaning ‘watch roamed the sur- tigers back when dangerous cycle rides can take you to pretty Tai Daeng, Tai you to pretty cycle rides can take locals still Many Hmong and Khamu villages. ings. The dazzling green rice fields around ings. The dazzling green and short walks or bi- photogenic town are but its surviving stupa, rise beside the district administration build- joyable – especially eastbound. US bombingjoyable – especially eastbound. monastery destroyed the town’s once-grand Sam Neua, stopping here for at least one night for at least one here Sam Neua, stopping en- more the long journey altogether makes % between Nong Khiaw and travelling you’re If ¸¼¤êº¤ where there are restaurants and two cheap if if two cheap and restaurants are there where semi-dormant guesthouses. Vieng Thong (Muang Hiam) lonelyplanet.com NORTHERN LAOS or SamNeua. Luang PrabangandViengThong between alsomakesKhiaw anexcellentrural rest stop sible byriverboat Nong fromMuangKhua. getaways fromLuangPrabangand are acces- scenes. Bothvillages make convenient rural ,creating jaw-droppinglybeautiful rear dramaticallyoutoftowering cliffs the dramatic. Atbothplaces,vastkarst peaksand the contours dosomethingaltogether more andtiny,roadlessMuangNgoiNeua, Khiaw ButatNong yougoinnorthernLaos. ever Tracts of green are mountains attractive wher- becomepossibleincomingyears.might andmotorcyclerental bicycles forguestuse hastwo ThongGuesthouse town. DokKhoun Rte 6from themarket attheeastern edge of somewhere around6pm/2amrespectively. road largely leaving bynight, ViengThong Luang Prabang/Vientiane)bothtravel the (from the twoSamNeuathrough-services is the7amminibus(40,000K,sixhours) as thebestchoice forSamNeuaEastbound, and LuangPrabang(130,000K,10hours). (60,000K,6½hours), PakKhiaw Mong around noon,continueafter lunch toNong arrivingfromSamNeua Westbound buses THERE&AWAYGETTING Karaoke alert. the NPA enroute tothehot springs. Office ready stick topassingtravellers. tion offer varieddelicaciessuch asfrog-on-a- A handfulof restaurant-stands atthebussta- market onlyreally comestolife before dawn. a menuinEnglish.AcrossRte 1Cthesmall unexpectedly has appetisingfoodandeven 20,000K) riverside fieldsfromtherear terrace. floor sittingarea andattractive viewsacross and teddy-bear towels.There’s first- apleasant newbedswithlove-messagefortable sheets have hotshowers, netted windowsandcom- VeryGuesthouse. clean,decent-sizedrooms besidetheSouksakhone by alanestarting tucked awaybehindthemarket, accessed is four options,thisbrandnewguesthouse 204 MUANG NGOIDISTRICT Tontavanh Restaurant TontavanhRestaurant areThe busandpetrolstations 300malong For rice-paddyviews,trytherough-and- MUANG NGOI DISTRICT •• Nong Khiaw ••NongKhiaw MUANG NGOIDISTRICT This typical-looking local eatery serves Thistypical-lookinglocaleatery serves salabeer bar

(beer 10,000K) (beer 10,000K) ( % 810 013;mains10,000- just beyond during the Second Indochina Wartoavoid during theSecond Luang Prabangprovincial government lived where villagers andmuch of thePathet Lao’s of caves Thisis inanabruptlimestonecliff. landing israrely open. The 300/25,000/40,000K), bothtemperamental. (per min500K)andwi-fi (permin/hr/day resort isalsotheonlyplacetooffer internet able todocredit cardcashadvances.That Riverside Nong Kiau Inemergencies,Nam Bak. thereception at rates, butthe nearest bankis16kmwestin baht andUSdollars atvery unfavourable tiny The 90-minute boatridefurthernorth. confusion withMuangNgoiNeua(p 207 ), a surrounding district)creating anobvious known asMuangNgoi(thenameof the chunks of mountain. of soaringlimestonecragsandhaphazard in 1973offers particularlymesmerisingviews concreteLinking thetwo,ahigh bridge built andrestaurantshouses catering totravelllers. of SopHoun)isaselection guest- called Ban Ou. Ontheriver’s sceniceastbank(officially streets onthewestbankof thelanguidNam little Sleepy isapairofNong Khiaw dusty % ¹$º¤¢¼¸ KHIAW NONG phon passage. It’spitch blackinside thecaves anarrow, twistingformer si- through cessed 1968and1974,it’sac- main bankbetween Home totheregion’s300m aroundthe cliff. less you’re cave claustrophobic)is asecond Much smallerbutmore excitingtovisit(un- byalichen-crusted accessed woodenstairway. ous cave isaround30m above groundlevel, American bombing.Thefirst andmost obvi- Thok impressive climax.Justbeyond, formations reaches abriefbutparticularly Rte 1C,the horizon’sarrayof towering karst that subtlyoutlinestheriverside massifs. indigoskyintoapointillistcanvas the deep bridge atduskwhenfabulousstar-shows turn and gazingattheriver. Anddoreturn tothe onthebridgeIt’s hardtobeatjuststanding Sights Information isalternatively thatNongKhiaw Beware Around 2kmeastalongremarkably quiet 071 /pop3500

tourist informationoffice tourist (admission 5000K; post office (see p (see 206 be ) justmight h

( h 7.30am-6.30pm) 8.30am-5pm) above theboat lonelyplanet.com exchanges is a series isaseries Tham Pha Pha Tham NORTHERN LAOS

205 Well- 020-5537 020-5537 abseiling 8-11.30am, % ( h 810 066; bunga-

% ( 020-5577 4462; without/ Six typical bunga- Bungalows face the 030-923 0763; without/with % ( % Relatively new bamboo new bamboo Relatively ( 020-5577 4778; bungalow 60,000K) Near the bus stand,simple organises full-day ‘100 full-day ‘100 organises 020-5537 9661; www.laos-adventures. 020-5537 9661; % ( % offers massage (per hr 40,000K) offers (

(r 40,000K)

Bamboo Paradise Guesthouse Bamboo Paradise Meexai Bungalows Namhoun Guesthouse Sabai Sabai Tiger Trail Tiger CT Guesthouse Sangdao Chittavong Guesthouse Delilah’s are ensuite squat toilets and water heaters but heaters squat toilets and water ensuite are old. are the bedcovers but popular rooms with shared bathrooms sit but popular rooms with shared whose front terrace a cafe-restaurant above table has seats bomb casings. made of water and well-functioning huts with tin roofs the river diagonal glimpses of have heaters from little balconies; the best view is from Room 4. with bathroom 40,000/70,000K) other in face each terraces lows with private a peaceful garden setting, but only Room 6 view. river has any real one at the front, you’ll probably If you get the bam- state of rickety the tired, forgive boo bungalows, thanks to the beguiling river blasted views. However get those at the rear no view at all. There and have with karaoke and herbal steam baths (15,000K including baths and herbal steam sarong, to easetea) towel and those post- aches. trekking Sleeping In the low season, highly prices become negotiable. sim- garden are spaced in a leafy west-bank squat and huts with shared ple matted-wall also pleasant bath but bunga- bamboo bucket bathrooms. All have lows with clean en suite mosquito nets and views through the foliage towards the river. costing 125,000K to 200,000K per person, or per person, to 200,000K 125,000K costing the three-pitch if you take 300,000K com, www.trekking-in-laos.com; Delilah’s; 1-5pm & 6.30-9pm) per- (170,000/250,000K per trips Waterfalls’ people) taking you down son for three/two minutes, by boat for around 45 the Nam Ou on foot 90 minutes then climbing for around bath- cascades. After through a succession of on to a different hike ing in the upper pools, for the boat back. Sign up one village riverside and depart at 9am. day before option to return. option to return. 9677; without/with bathroom 30,000/70,000K)9677; without/with bathroom bathroom 40,000/70,000K) low 60,000-80,000K, r 100,000K) ‚ 11 B2 B2 B2 B2 A2 A1 A2 A2 A2 A1 A1 # " i

resort Site for Ban Sop planned # 17 18 20 21 11 14 15 16 19 12 13 Houn To Ban 020-397 020-397 Hat Sao ‚ 3

" 6

% 8 Houn 17 ‚ ( Wat Sop " i 14 " i " @ B # 4 " i @ 6 (via River) 5 Neua (18km); To Muang Ngoi 10

66 66 " i Muang Khua (90km) " i Guesthouse...... Bakery...... (see 6) Ngoi Neua & Luang Prabang ...... Guesthouse...... Chittavong Guesthouse...... 9 organises vari- organises

'Leh's Place' ...... EATING CT Restaurant & Deen Restaurant...... TRANSPORT Boat Office...... Boats to Muang Bus Stand ...... am Nong Kiau Riverside... Phayboune Sangdao Sunrise Guesthouse... Sunset Guesthouse.... Thanthavong " i n 00.1miles 0200m " i u

15 N o

To Manypoon u H

B2 B2 B2 B2 B2 B2 B2 A1 A1 A2 O Sam Neua (254km);

Tham Pha Thok (2km);

" m i 9 1 3 4 6 7 8 2 5 13

a Guesthouse (approx 1km);

10 " N 7 20

Green Discovery 8am-9pm) 4444 4444 4444 4444 1 # ` 19 NGOI DISTRICT MUANG •• Nong Khiaw 2 " D " i 21 h options including a three- 7 # #H i (maximum difficulty grade 4)

666 666 # 18 A (via River) " i Guesthouse...... Guesthouse...... Guesthouse...... Office ...... Riverside...... (see 11) To Pak Ou (89km); 16 Lin Tong Meexai Bungalows...... Namhoun SLEEPING Bamboo Paradise CT Guesthouse...... Delilah's ...... SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Green Discovery...... Sabai Sabai...... Tiger Trail ...... (see 7) INFORMATION Nong Kiau Post Office ...... Tourist Information

kayaking " i To Pak Mong (26km); Udomxai (107km); Luang Prabang (138km); Luang Namtha (205km)

‚ 12 Luang Prabang (114km)

NONG KHIAW

‚ 3 2 4 1 To Artillery Cave ‚ via Riverside Drive rock climbing kayaks. Experiencedstaff you can accompany cliffs for a half-day’sup the grand riverside 350,000/410,000/600,000K per person assum- 350,000/410,000/600,000K per person ing four/two/one participants in two-person

Activities Well equipped so bring a head-torch or rent one for 5000K or rent so bring a head-torch booth. at the ticket lonelyplanet.com ous day paddle-camping expedition to Luang day paddle-camping expedition to Luang A Prabang (from 1,330,000K per person). one-day trip starting with a longboat ride to Muang Ngoi then paddling back costs 5637, 020-265 4792; www.nongkiauclimbing.com; Nong Kiau Riverside; NORTHERN LAOS huts withoutviews,someverybasicFrench isspoken. Jammed-together little with bathroom30,000/70,000K) isolated spot1.3kmeastoftown. have OKbedsandcoldshowersbutare inanutterly to amorouslocalcouples,thesepleasantnewbungalows Appealingmostly without/with bathroom30,000/50,000K) vivial fairy-lit restaurant withriver-garden hasa con- Sangdao Chittavong Guesthouse on theeastbank while acrossthebridge the A few traveller-oriented eateries lineRte 1C Eating Guesthouse Thanthavong Lin TongGuesthouse Guesthouse Manypoon Guesthouse Phayboune have toresort tooneof thefollowing: the above are likely tobefull.If so,youmight balcony lamps. of storage glasses, spaceor bedsidetables, rooms have includingalack minorniggles beds have mosquitonetsbutthe high-slung nies are comfy,four-poster Large, unbeatable. hot showers. Viewsfromtheriver-view balco- writingdesks andgreatwalls, tasteful lighting, polishedA-framewith high eaves, bamboo ful, quiet‘resort’ consistsof huge bungalows topoptionbyfar,thisdelight- Nong Khiaw’s rinclbreakfast 320,000K; www.nongkiau.com; modest improvement inquality. the pricesare step astartling upforrelatively comparedHowever, toneighbouring options mosphere and towelsare foldedlike origami. bedspreads andpaperlanterns addalittleat- rooms have superriver views.Patchwork from 110,000/200,000K) beinglessobscuredthe upperlevel bytrees. toilets butallhave river from views–those galows are andcomewithsquat rough slightly bungalow 70,000-80,000K) net fishingtrip(50,000K). friendly owners cantake youonatraditional Six newroomsare underconstruction.The mattresses are firmandwater heaters work. bridge views;thesprung withdecentenough 206 the en-suiteshowersrunhot. rooms withdodgymattresses andbasicsquatsbutatleast Ultra-thinhardboard‘walls’divideunlovely r 40,000K) behind thebungalows. Noviews,littlecharm. and bigger,damproomsinanuninspired concrete house Crampedbungalowswithoutviews, 50,000/70,000K) mostofIf youarrive season late inthehigh Riverside Kiau Nong Guesthouse Sunrise SunsetGuesthouse MUANG NGOI DISTRICT •• Nong Khiaw ••NongKhiaw MUANG NGOIDISTRICT Thisarrayof bungalow- ( Tightly packed littlebun-

% (

( % % ( ( % ( % % ( 020-5590 1169;without/ 020-247 8799,020-2079587; 810 033;without/withview % 020-5678 2525; Rte 1C; 020-5678 2525;Rte 810 028;r/bungalow 810 004,020-55705000; 020-5503 3788; iW )

bridge, thisopen-sidedrestaurant hasthe be 1,000,000Kperboat.Sometimeswhen people travel, theminimumshared costwill 11am (100,000K,sixtoninehours). Iffewer people have signedup,aboatleaves around departure atthe five hours), toeight signuponedaybefore ForLuangPrabang(100,000K, Nong Khiaw. River-boat ridesare of visiting ahighlight BOAT &Away There Getting (8000K) are especiallyrefreshing. French-bread pizzas.Themint-lemonshakes the menuranges tosteak fromspaghetti to options, andChinese of Lao countlesstasty shelf of well-thumbedpaperbacks. Ontop little deck-chair chill-out cornerandabook- best viewsof anyeatery intown.There’s a 15,000-45,000K; by day. gloomy butviewlessandslightly ing atnight invit- that’spleasantly inasetting served Laos best Indianfoodyou’llfindanywhere inrural mains 10,000-20,000K; departure –cookingcantake aeons. ordering foodwithinanhourbefore yourboat above themainjettybutthinktwicebefore views. Twoun-namedstilt-cafes are perched Having apre-purchased ticket won’tassure arriving offtheboat(s) fromMuangNgoi. at theboatoffice, fillingupwith folks starts actually butthe11amservice at thebusstand a minivan(50,000K) at1pm.Tickets are sold ataround9amand11am, plusthere’sstart four. or Minibuses 2½ hours butinreality usually takes at least The journeytoLuangPrabangispossiblein BUS &S departure fromMuangNgoiNeua. stillfinda youmight uled fromNongKhiaw hours) –ifnoneare(120,000K, seven sched- boatsrunallthewaytoMuangKhua weekly are Afew possibleascustomdictates. times extradepartures season ride andinhigh hours) leave at11amand2pm.It’salovely footwear. ride aroundthem.Planaheadwithsuitable shallowsand/ortake a10kmtuk-tuk through of thetripwhere topush theboat you’llneed water are levels very low,there are sections CT Restaurant & Bakery &Bakery Restaurant CT DeenRestaurant Boats toMuangNgoiNeua(20,000K,1¼ Ǎ WNGTH h 7am-10pm) ( h Ǎ boat office % EW s 7am-10pm) ǎ 020-5578 4352;veg&non-veg wngth ( % Right besidethe Right 020-5577 4778;mains . Ifatleastten lonelyplanet.com ǎ Probablythe ew (35,000K) NORTHERN LAOS Wat 207 some of whom stayed some of falang, falls, involve boat rides. Others boat rides. Others falls, involve . That Mok Numerous freelance guides offer a wide a wide guides offer Numerous freelance to the well that you could do perfectly easy hikes are unguided, possibly staying the night in one (see outlying villages Around pretty three of Muang Ngoi. Thefts from Muang Ngoi’s cheaper guest- Thefts from Muang Ngoi’s cheaper guests houses to occur when over-relaxed tend unsecured and shutters flimsy doors leave long of or place valuables within easy reach no have – most windows here armed pincers glass. Sights & Activities views the riverside is the grandeur of Such all day just laz- that you could happily linger the ing on your balcony or sitting at one of shacks. A little after restaurant better-placed locals delivering to watch dawn it’s interesting monastery, alms to monks at the rebuilt Okadsayaram walks to Lao, of Hmong and Khamurange vil- re- Prices are waterfalls. and to regional lages as and some visits, such markably reasonable guesthouses closed or improved their facilities their facilities guesthouses closed or improved demanding new for a (slightly) to cater more still enjoy the who travellers of generation boat journeys from Nong Khiawenchanting in hiking, kayak- interested now more but are If you the riverscape. ing and simply enjoying want to sleep for under a dollar, that’s still ). 209 Bo (p possible in nearby Huay Information only from electricity but Generators provide ETL mobile phone dusk till 9.30pm. There’s you In emergencies but no internet. coverage the of at a few US dollars could exchange unsurprisingly poor. guesthouses are but rates Dangers & Annoyances celebrated historic monasteries. Such was the was the Such historic monasteries. celebrated devastation Ngoi postwar Muang that a ‘new’ dis- as the ) took over 204 (ie Nong Khiaw, p confusion that a potential trict headquarters, causesstill sometimes rebuilt mix ups. The in the by travellers was ‘discovered’ village its beauty and laissez-faire 1990s when late pre-Twitter-era it a major gained atmosphere guidebooks. in any featuring not buzz despite By 2002 virtually every guesthouse hosted dollar-a-night haze, but opiate in a chilled-out for months the at- Laos’s changed clamp down on drugs cheapest the very radically. Most of mosphere

‘Leh’s ‘Leh’s Arronh Guesthouse is marginally the best is marginally NGOI DISTRICT MUANG •• Muang Neua (Ban Ngoi Kao) Ngoi º Û

shop nearby, or 50,000K from Green shop nearby, or 50,000K from Green

020-213 6655; r 50,000K)

º¤¤º¨À¹$ Û Originating in Luang Prabang, the mini- Originating in Luang Prabang, For Udomxai a direct minibus (40,000K, direct For Udomxai a

%

Muang Ngoi was once a regional centre but it centre a regional Muang Ngoi was once during the Secondwas pulverised Indochina its once- of War, bombs destroying all three History timeless neighbouring villages while kayaking villages timeless neighbouring the memorable way to savour a great trips are has its most scenically spec- Nam Ou, which the village. either side of tacular stretches and English is widely spoken so you get the so you get and English is widely spoken without the in- village a remote experience of you into take hikes unaided Short convenience. of forest-dappled limestone. Uniquely for such Uniquely for limestone. forest-dappled of accommodation aboundsa tiny place, budget ‘street’ fires itself dead straight from the main fires ‘street’ pyramidal tooth towards a dramatic monastery prettiest riverside settings. The one 500m-long riverside prettiest Flanked in all directions by sculpted layers of of layers by sculpted in all directions Flanked mountain cliff, and karst this totallymajestic northern Laos’s of enjoys one roadless village À´ pop 800 Discovery at Nong Kiau Riverside. at Nong Discovery (BAN NGOI KAO) NGOI NEUA MUANG bikes cost 30,000K from unsigned bikes Place’ villages or reach the caves. Town-bicycles cost Town-bicycles the caves. or reach villages Trail. Mountain 20,000K per day from Tiger Bicycle rental makes sense local makes to explore Bicycle rental from Vientiane) passes through at night. Getting Around a quick lunch stop in Nong Khiaw stop in Nong a quick lunch around Neua bus (arriving 11.30am. Another Sam bus to Sam Neua (130,000K, 12 hours) via 12 hours) bus to Sam Neua (130,000K, makes 5½ hours) Vieng Thong (110,000K, of Pak Mong’s three very lacklustre overnight overnight lacklustre very Mong’s three Pak of stuck there. options should you get ( take any westbound transport and change transport and change any westbound take Above Mong (20,000K, 50 minutes). at Pak the Mong pharmacy, a Pak three hours) leaves at 11am. Alternatively at 11am. Alternatively leaves hours) three Khua there’ll usually be additional Luang be additional Luang usually Khua there’ll 3pm departing at around Prabang minivans Between office. from the boat 6pm and 7pm from Sam Neua passesthe minibus through just a Prabang: it stops for to Luang en route seconds Chittavong outside the Sangdao few restaurant. you a seat by the time it reaches the bus stand. the bus you a seat the time it reaches by Muang from boat arrives when a On days lonelyplanet.com NORTHERN LAOS ing, where theriver isatitswidestandmost plus isthatyou’re above right theboatland- slightly saggy beds. saggy slightly have woodenfloors, rough lowceilingsand phere isappealingbutthe very rusticrooms and awayfromtheriver, thegardenatmos- fabulous riverine scenerythatstretches both cottage roomsthat are cutabove aslight race overlooks the river. you get yourownhammockandashared ter- on longconcrete stilts.Thebedsare smallbut wooden en-suite roomswithvinylfloors stand little fromtheboatlanding. backa wooden orbamboothatch unitsset and newmosquitonets. views. Allhave private flushtoilet,hammocks The bamboo-walledoneshave unobstructed windowpanes) are behindtherestaurant. set with solid,tiledfloors andshutters (butno till 9.30pm).Clean,concrete-walled rooms that there are three nearbyrestaurants open well litand‘lively’ (lively atnight meaning beautiful, intheonecornerof townthat’s most helpfulEnglishspeakers intown. ( butco-managerturbingly darkatnight Sai the cheapest intown.Theaccesspathisdis- oldriverfrontcertingly rough bungalowsare construction. travellers coming.More buildingsare under keeps the ing variousdormitory-styleaffairs power andarange of cheap roomsinclud- No views,nohammocksbutits24-hour save 10,000K. before justto choosing aninlandguesthouse Muang Ngoi’sgreat attractions,sothinktwice such views fromyourbungalowisoneof and itsmultilayered karst massifs.Savouring many have inspiringviewsover theNamOu None of are theguesthouses luxuriousbut Sleeping House. Rainbow thetwo-storeythe boat-landingpathpasses own kayaksandishandilylocated where laoyouthtravel.com; ways alongtheNamOu. 208 % Lattanavongsa1Guesthouse Guesthouse View River NingGuesthouse Guesthouse Kaikeo Guesthouse Phetdavanh Kayaking isagreat waytoappreciate the Aloune Mai Guesthouse AlouneMai SaylomGuesthouse 020-389 1827) MUANG NGOI DISTRICT •• Around Muang Ngoi ••AroundMuang MUANG NGOIDISTRICT isoneof thefriendliestand h 7.30-10.30am &1.30-7pm)

(r 40,000-50,000K) (r 30,000K)

(r from50,000K)

(r 50,000K) (dm/r from20,000/40,000K)

Lao YouthTravel (r 50,000K) (r 80,000K)

These discon- These Off the path Off Themain Sizeable Simple Pleasant Pleasant has its (www.

h sticky riceandhoney. is the bananas flambéedin aflamingplate ofmost exoticdessert, fried deckyoucangeton whose MuangNgoi’s Aloune Mai Guesthouse. Sky Bar with itsthatched roofed pavilion whilethe Restaurant more hidden are and traveller fare. Ourfavourites forviews cookarange guesthouses of localfood Several Eating as aminiature boutiqueecoresort. onecouldimaginethismarketedless rough heated showers. Were thefloorboardsslightly embroidered bedspreads, goodbedsandsolar ofa sweep river view.Allhave hammocks, bamboo-weave bungalowsformanarcaround bomb-casingsforbanisters.use the‘mainstreet’path meets behindsteps that around ascrappylawnwhere theboat-landing floors andgas-fired hotshowers. Theyare set most MuangNgoialternatives withpolished track or on the path that starts oppositetrack or on thepaththatstarts the the continuation of theboatlandingaccess heading eastaway fromtheriver eitheralong lages by iseasywithoutguideor map.Start countryside. Reaching thethree vil- closest orange butterflies intobeautifulkarst-edged ing shorthikes cloudsof through white and Muang NgoiNeuaisagreat placeformak- AROUND MUANG NGOI scenery. particularly spectacular cuts through or more passengers. Thefirst hourof the ride The priceis120,000Kprovided there are ten up thedaybefore onthelistatboatoffice. boat leaves peoplesign at9.30amifenough arrive.if itdoesn’t Goingto be preparedHowever, anothernight tostay around1.30pm. Muang NgoiforNongKhiaw is operatingthatdaythenitwillpickupin IftheboatfromMuangKhua Guesthouse. 8am attheboatoffice besideNing leave around9am,withtickets from onsale (20,000K,onehour) Boats toNongKhiaw &Away There Getting the southernendof town. Veranda Nang Phone Keo Restaurant Keo NangPhone 7.30am-9pm) Saylom falang offers itsowntake onpizzabesidethe hasthemostattractive atmosphere

, nearby ( % rollwithpeanutbutter, banana, isaMain Sthouse-restaurant Suan Phao Guesthouse Suan Phao 020-386 2021;r80,000K) Riverside Guesthouse Riverside lào-láo

. Alsoimaginative (mains 8000-20,000K;

lonelyplanet.com Muang Khua, a Muang Khua, Bamboo Garden Bamboo Garden Thefive towards and NORTHERN LAOS 209 Konsavanh Konsavanh speaks some English is very attractive but attractive is very has masses of informa- has masses of (Provincial Tourism Department of Huay Bo 020-386 2043) 211 797, 212 483; www.oudomxay.info; 211 797, 212 483; www.oudomxay.info; º¤Ä§) Û % ( % tourist office 081 / pop 25,000 7.30-11.30am & 1.30-6pm Mon-Fri Apr-Sep, 8am-noon & ´Ä§ (À´ Ü Around 25% of Udomxai’s population is Around 25% of The walk to The walk © Ý Information 1.30-4pm Mon-Fri Oct-Mar) The h accommodation tion about onward travel, and flyers and local sights. Its professional % is a Laos–ChinaUdomxai trade cen- Booming and handy crossroads city that’s about as tre metropolitan a place as you’ll find in northern a trav- Laos. of and lack The brash main street visitors, eller vibe puts off many short-term minimal effort and but it takes to find charm tourist nearby – the well-organised interest you to stayoffice tempt has many ideas to longer. Chinese, with the Yunnanese dialect as often heard as Lao in some businesses and hotels. community of also a small but active There’s expats, notablyinternational German. NORTHWESTERN LAOS Namtha Northern Udomxai and Luang form a mountainous tapestry of Province that villages and traditional forests rivers, ethnicities. home to almost 40 classified are sev- developedLuang Namtha is the most of around towns ranged eral traveller-friendly National Protected the 2224-sq-km Nam Ha with hiking, biking, kayaking and ) 218 (p Area at short arranged all easily boating adventures transport hub, Udomxai is the regional notice. is the one China–Laoswhile Boten border visitors. open to international XAI) MUANG UDOMXAI (OUDOMSAY, ¸ requires fording one intermediate river (calf- river one intermediate fording requires deep dry season). in the pass a par- You’ll and follow limestone spike ticularly sharp comprises The village beneath a high ridge. houses albeit and bamboo-weave mostly stilt than in Huay atmosphere with a less serene guesthousesSen. all side-by-side simple Three anywhere 5000K, possibly the cheapest charge in Laos. of The friendly owner Guesthouse and has been guests on hunting known to take (50,000K). forays into the forests Oudomxay; , a , a Cave Cave has 020-386 % ( Huay Sen Tham Kang has a pretty has a pretty rectangle and rectangle is a dismal set of is a dismal set of petang (r 10,000K) OB Bungalows (r 10,000K) (mains 10,000-30,000K, beer 13,000K; (mains 10,000-30,000K, beer 13,000K; NORTHWESTERN LAOS •• Udomxai (Oudomsay, Muang Xai)

at the farthest end of the village the village at the farthest end of . ’s houses look less rustic but you can guesthouse . He also offers guided two-hour walks also offers . He 8am-6pm) Continuing for 15 minutes you’ll cross a for 15 minutes Continuing Ban Na For stilt-house architecture, For stilt-house architecture, Five minutes’ walk beyond, morning light minutes’ Five bomb casings. Chantanohm Guesthouse a setting and features has the better view and its new, relatively size- view and its new, relatively has the better particularly good value. able bamboo huts are jutting karst horizon. jutting karst observe local weavers at work and both village observe at work and both village local weavers a sea rice fields with a of guesthouses overlook lào-láo Hmong villages. to neighbouring rustle up a decent fried rice and stocks an bamboo-macerated unusually flavoursome four minuscule bamboo-boxes, but the en- four minuscule bamboo-boxes, thusiastic owner speaks some English, can the most authentic vibe of the three villages. villages. the three the most authentic vibe of Its one toilets and associated restaurant shacks that restaurant toilets and associated open if and when anyone happens to be are around to cook. each of the few possible confusion points. points. possible confusion the few of each basic, ultra-cheap very offer villages All three outdoor squat accommodation with shared convoluted but well-worn main path is wise but well-worn convoluted signposts at little hand-painted are as there (45 minutes) or right(45 minutes) for Ban Na (15 minutes) Sticking to the and Huay Bo (40 minutes). enter the rice fields. Then at the next junction enter for Huay Sen bear left later) minutes (three slippery stepping stones) and reach a large a large and reach stones) slippery stepping left just as you first rice fields. Keep of area stream (wading it is safer than risking the than risking the (wading it is safer stream with vaguely simian features sitting on a rock with vaguely simian features pile. h View Restaurant look like giant stone jaws. For refreshments, stone jaws. For refreshments, giant look like the crystal over cross a little bamboo bridge to the simple little clear Nam Ngoi river spot a few bats and there’s the eerie a sight of bats and there’s spot a few glance through at first what emerging stream modest limestone cave set between poinset- cave modest limestone might trumpet lilies. Inside you tia bushes and eigners 10,000K to continue. Your toll also Your toll to continue. 10,000K eigners to the adjacent allows access Nang Phone Keo Restaurant. These converge Restaurant. These converge Keo Phone Nang walk 25 minutes’ Around minutes. five after for- small tollbooth that charges further is a lonelyplanet.com emphasises ferric orange stripes in the path- orange emphasises ferric small three side cliffs. of In the easternmost Buddha concrete you’ll find a grey here caves 3225; r 10,000K) NORTHERN LAOS is handilycentral. historic structure rebuilt that wastotally after is toppedbythepretty little facing hillseach offering excellentviews.One leadup fromthemainroadtotwo Stairways Sights 25,000/20,000K; perkg (same-day/next-day national calls2500Kpermin; offering asinglepay-to-use 8am-noon Sat) 4pm Mon-Fri, some travellers cheques (2%commission). yuan(RMB)andaccepts baht andChinese dollars,Australian dollars, Thai Canadian changes USdollars, poundssterling, euros, to guests. Lithavixayoffersspeeds. Guesthouse free wi-fi 10pm) on weekends, butthehours are irregular. sometimesopens maps (65,000K).Theoffice of treks andtourstheGT-Rider andsells organisesnoticeboard. Theoffice aselection andonthebusstation in manyguesthouses excellent free townmapscanalsobefound 210 13 1 3 2 UDOMXAI Air Computer AirComputer ofTo theright thearchaic atpa)...... C2 Santiphab)...... Banjeng Temple(Wat B2 C2 Tourist Office...... Tip Laundry...... B2 Post Office...... B2 BCEL...... B2 Air Computer...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION opalnRsarn.... B2 C3 Souphailin Restaurant...... B2 Siso Bakery...... D2 Sinphet Restaurant...... C2 Nonmengda Market...... B2 Meuang Neua...... B2 Lin DaHongsaiShishudian.. Ban ThinMarket...... EATING B3 B2 Xayxana Guesthouse...... B2 Vivanh Guesthouse...... C2 Villa Keoseumsack...... C3 Vilavong Guesthouse...... C2 Saylomen Guesthouse...... C2 Lithavixay Guesthouse...... Khounkeo Guesthouse...... Dansavanh Hotel...... (see5) SLEEPING Luang Namtha(136km) NORTHWESTERN LAOS •• Udomxai (Oudomsay, Muang Xai) LAOS••Udomxai(Oudomsay,Muang NORTHWESTERN is aninternet cafe withgreat connection To Boten(117km); BCEL AC

( ( % % Market Thin Ban 211 260; Rte 13) 211 260;Rte 312 479;permin200K; 6 5 4 3 2 1 isasmallkiosk-shop 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 h 3 21 7am-9pm) Ὀ 7 27 a h ht...... B2 C1 Wat PhuThat...... C3 Tu'Óng Ðài...... B2 Samlaan Cycling...... PMC...... B2 Phu ThatStupa...... C2 Museum...... B3 Lao RedCross...... Phu That Stupa That Phu Monument post office Kaysone telephone 28 hasanATM, Nam Ko . h 5 Tip Laundry B 22 8am-10pm) ( 2 h 36 h 9

10 (inter- 19 Main Market 7am- 8am- 13 13 12 11 10 Laos Station Petrol 35 , an 9 8 7 Main Bridge 32 Ὀ 20 13 31 25 18

17 1

To SalikaResort(2.8km); 33 Luang Prabang(195km) Stadium shutters gables.Alongwithun- andoriental two-storey mansionfeaturing colonialstyle 4 Nong Khiaw(109km); 12 The other hill hosts a disappointing The otherhillhostsadisappointing That Phu gious ceremonies here; there’s cute little reli-wartime destruction.Full-moondayssee ment offices occupylate-colonial era build- baths ina modestbamboo-matted structure. Swedish–stylemassageandherbal steam Lao 10,000K, massageper1/2hr 15,000K; erbend, the illustrate alocalBuddhamyth. of naively that crafted animalandbirdstatues leavesthe breeze, its metal hideamenagerie imaginative concrete featureside knoll.Themostnotable here modest butvery attractively onariver- set Temple of sportstrophiesandafew oldtypewriters. cases gigantic modelbambooshoots,several are odd,unexplained exhibitsincludingtwo labelled artefacts andpoorlyexplainedphotos (admission free; Thailu HandicraftsShop 15 37 govern-Along thePhongsali roadseveral On ahillockoverlooking abeautifulriv- Udomxai’s foremost monastery is 11 23 Muang Khua(101km); To MuangLa(28km); Pak NamNoi(64km); Phongsali (231km) 16 26 30 8

(Wat Santiphab; , and a brand new standing Buddha., andabrandnewstanding 2 Bridge Nam Ko 6 h Lao Red Cross Lao Red 29 2E Terminal 8-11am &2-4pm) Airport 34 14 h 0 0 ‘tree oflife’ ‘tree Nonmengda hnml ihcu.... B3 Phonemali Nightclub...... C1 C3 Pheun BeerRestaurant..... B2 Mingkhounan...... Danasvan BeerGarden..... a-a...... C2 B2 Xai-Ya...... B3 Tuk-tuks...... Centre...... C3 Meuang SayTransportation C2 Lao Airlines...... )...... B3 China Restaurant(Busto Bus Station...... TRANSPORT ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING Market Nam KatWaterfall(22km) dawn-dusk)

( 24 % To Hospital(1km); inagrand,new h lonelyplanet.com 312 391;steambath D 2-8pm) . Tinkling in , which is museum offers offers Banjeng 0.3 miles 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 500 m Wat

NORTHERN LAOS Ban 211 Right This quiet This quiet ) 312 170; r 100,000K; a 212 175; r 60,000- peddle vegetables, peddle vegetables, % ( 211 377; r with fan/air-con 211 377; r with fan/air-con % 212 503; r without/with TV212 503; r without/with 020-5578 0429; r with fan/ ( 212 219; r 60,000K) 212 698; r 220,000-400,000K; % ( % % ( (

% (

% The rooms are dated dated The rooms are ( )

) Simple, fair-sized fan rooms fan rooms Simple, fair-sized a A pleasantly foyer leads inviting Villa Keoseumsack Nonmengda markets aiW and Supposedly the fa- Udomxai’s top hotel, This new, aristocratic-looking mansion ) ) Xayxana Guesthouse Vilavong Guesthouse Vivanh Guesthouse Dansavanh Hotel Lithavixay Guesthouse o Saylomen Guesthouse Saylomen Guesthouse Eating Several snack stalls set up shop opposite a Chinese evening. early in the There’s Xai-Ya BCEL opposite supermarket bank. The Thin and dead fruit and meat including some live exotica (particularly at weekends). features tasteful touches of grained woodwork of touches tasteful features and local fabrics. Generous-sized rooms have fridges, beds, powerful air-con, super-comfy bargain The current desks and hot showers. once construction of price may increase section and the is complete rear its bigger is installed. planned wi-fi a grandeur but neocolonial of cade has buckets lobby space is used as an upmarket the large gallery and the rooms, while large furniture and properly equipped, lack pizazz. Many oddly aligned, so that windows look onto are for Ask absent altogether. or are corridors serious discounts. house offers a handful of tiled, spacious rooms tiled, spacious a handful of house offers with comfortable double beds, fans and pri- bathrooms. vate air-con 60,000/80,000K, tr 120,000K; for the professional new place is remarkably and good areas price, has communal sitting Wonky curtain rails and the odd hot showers. minor niggles. mosquito are but some ones seemand bigger overpriced, is a key wi-fi and the free English is spoken attraction for some guests. a mild damp patches in bathrooms. However, bathrooms. in patches mild damp great and new, fresh are rooms from 60,000K, value. 50,000/100,000K; top sheet with hot water, and multicoloured most of value than better coat stands are options. Udomxai’s 50,000K 50,000/60,000K) through to decidedly ordinary rooms with hot helpful and prices are shower, but the owners a central location. fair for such are 150,000K; beside the main bridge, this compact guest- beside the main bridge, is in- Tu’Óng Tu’Óng (total cost for

(70,000-190,000K 8am-noon & 2-5pm) 312 483; r 40,000-70,000K; h % workshops ( 020-5560 9790; www.samlaan

cooking courses organises excellent one- organises % that include gathering the that include gathering the (

NORTHWESTERN LAOS •• Udomxai (Oudomsay, Muang Xai) 020-330 9456; irregular) % h papermaking (Productivity & Marketing Center of Oudomxay; www.

The cheapest rooms in this quiet, family- The cheapest ) , a Lao–Vietnamese monument solidarity Samlaan Cycling

Khounkeo Guesthouse PMC style guesthouse have hard mattresses and and hard mattresses style guesthouse have a sider staying 28km north in pretty Muang Muang sider staying 28km north in pretty most ex- hosts the region’s ), which 214 La (p as well as two simple boutique resort clusive guesthouses. ing rural alternative, you might also con- ing rural alternative, range. Unappetising crash pads within the Unappetising crash pads within the range. if you from 25,000K bus station yard charge don’t mind sharing one squat toilet between a dozen flimsy guest-rooms. For an interest- if soulless Chinese hotels in the 100,000K if soulless Chinesein the 100,000K hotels Sleeping accommoda- has an abundance of Udomxai tion, including several new, fair value brand busy. busy. their ‘office’, opposite the Thailu Handicrafts the Thailu Handicrafts their ‘office’, opposite stays shut when staffshop, frequently are day cycling tours and multiday combination and multiday combination day cycling tours Call ahead as adventures. cycling/trekking find potential fellow trekkers arrive at 4pm for arrive trekkers fellow find potential your meeting’ the day before a ‘rendezvous proposed departure. Ong Caves (p 213 ), plus two possible trekking possible trekking ), plus two 213 (p Ong Caves staying homestays.routes at Khamu To village clude shopping for ingredients, but the teacher but the teacher clude shopping for ingredients, than English. They also better speaks French around Udomxai, a city one-day tours offer visits to the Chom walk, two- and three-day The tourist office organises an interesting an interesting The tourist office organises series of communities. Hence its ironic nickname, the communities. Hence ‘opium shop’. Activities crafts are an attempt to find non-narcotic- an attempt crafts are based commerce for former poppy-growing dering why it’s part-funded by the UN Officedering why it’s part-funded that’s becauseon Drugs and Crime, these local fibres and selling and prod- handmade paper local fibres won- local essences.ucts, bags and If you’re pmc.odx.com; pmc.odx.com; room and shop introducing a small exhibition where a white stupa is fronted by two endear- is fronted stupa a white where gilded soldier-statues. ingly cherubic ings, and near the edge of town is the town is the of edge near the ings, and Ðài lonelyplanet.com cycling.com; cycling.com; raw materials. Their Their raw materials. depending on group size) one/two/three participantsone/two/three 195,000/240,000/285,000K) NORTHERN LAOS h packer restaurant isdecorated withdusty the kitchen, point at a selection ofthe kitchen, pointataselection ingredients Ordering isanadventure to –walkthrough with luridposters of mismatched foodstuffs. this familyplaceishaphazardlydecorated tre restaurants Chinese onthemaindrag, mains 20,000-40,000K) wait anhourtobeserved. but ifotherguestsare aheadof you,youmight ifyou’reon thewall.It’sunbeatable patient weave decorisjustthepotshung whose house backstreet restaurant isatraditionalbamboo- aginative creations of herown.Her small, mok phaa foodlike magic withauthentic,northernLao 30,000K; andfoccacias. oissants notice –twohours forpizza,adaycr- options.Someitems requireetarian advance (omelette burgers, 15,000K)are popularveg- Udomxai’s bestbread andcakes. Udomkai placeiswidelyreputedtwo-tabled formaking 20,000K, filtercoffee 10,000K; with aslicedbanana. nana pancakes (10,000K)are simplypancakes triangle of andba- separate cheese, processed sandwich’ (5000K)isaFrench-bread rollwith dishes,the‘cheese its wayintomany‘Lao’ fine forWestern breakfasts butMSGfinds posters and adecorative hornet’snest.It’s 212 Souphailin Restaurant SouphailinRestaurant SisoBakery SinphetRestaurant LinDaHongsaiShishudian BUSES FROMUDOMXAI * =timeshould reduce oncemajorroadworksare complete 7.30am-10pm) Vetae 1,0 1a 1 t 19 to 16 17 to 15 3 4 4 9 to15 11am 6pm 4pm, 3* 8.30am &around2am 4pm 2pm, 10am 8.30am, 2½ 3 9am 3pm 11.30am, 6 8.30am, 110,000 155,000 4pm 2pm, noon, (hours) Duration 4* 65,000 3.30pm 25,000 8am 11.30am, 8.30am, 35,000 3pm noon, 9am, (VIP) Vientiane 40,000 Vientiane 30,000 Departs Phongsali 25,000 Mong Pak 28,000 Beng 35,000 Pak Khiaw Nong 50,000 Khua Muang Houn (kip) Muang Cost Namtha Luang Prabang Luang Boten Destination NORTHWESTERN LAOS •• Udomxai (Oudomsay, Muang Xai) LAOS••Udomxai(Oudomsay,Muang NORTHWESTERN h 7am-10pm) (abanana-leaffishdish)plusim- ( % Udomxai’sold-timeback- Better than several lacklus- thanseveral Better 020-5546 3973;sandwiches10,000- Souphailincreates culinary

( h % (mains 10,000-20,000K; 7am-9pm) 211 147;mains15,000- ( % 020-5598 6168; Thistiny free; floor fillers start with Lao linedancingand floor fillers withLao start cated youthvenue where atypicalevening’s taurant has a tiny two-seat cocktail bar. cocktail hasatinytwo-seat taurant 50,000K, wine/cocktails17,000/25,000K; language poptracks. progress Thaidiscotoafew through English- 11pm) including lively pavilionsNam Ko2bridge. beer Several bamboofrondsbesidethe gardens through ( side themainbridge. able atthe isavail- (butlittleelse) Reasonably pricedbeer &Entertainment Drinking andmild,subtleyellowcurry. pastas unusually convincingvegetable tempura, so-so garden. Multifaceted menuchoices include tiered interior andthere’s athree-table fairy-lit water. musicserenades Soft thecosytwo- Latin quoted menupricesincludericeanddrinking than thecompetitiononceyounote thatmost Western restaurant, yetpricesare littlemore This isthenearest Udomxaigets toastylish Prices are fairforsuch heftyportions. and hopetheycomeoutasyoulike them. Sat) LaoAirlines AIR &Away There Getting h Phonemali Nightclub Phonemali Meuang Neua Meuang flies to/from Vientiane (895,000K) every fliesto/fromVientiane(895,000K)every h 2-10pm) linetheairportroad.Meuang Neuares- 8-11.30pm) Mingkhounan overlooks riverside vegetable Danasvan BeerGarden ( % 312 146,047; isanamusinglyunsophisti- ( % 020-5567 3783;meals20,000-

( ( %

% Pheun BeerRestaurant Pheun 020-5568 0761;admission 020-5400 5010; lonelyplanet.com h (

h h 8am-5pm Mon- 6-11pm) 7am-11pm) h be- 11am-

NORTHERN LAOS

213

(per person 15,000K) ‘guesthouse’ . Samlaan Cycling (p 211 ) ) 211 . Samlaan Cycling (p ew ǎ , 48km from Udomxai. Often Often from Udomxai. , 48km wngth ǎ s In totally dry conditions when river fords fords In totally dry conditions when river bus station) on a road signed ‘Homyen bus station) road signed ‘Homyen on a Restaurant’. 1.4km turn right After past fork rightfish ponds, left 600m later, after Donnanoy Restaurant, straight then keep the through Approaching Nam Lae village. Ang Nam Hin reservoir around 3km beyond, GETTING THERE & AWAY including meals, tours, Two- and three-day English-speaking guide and ample time to observe scenes can be organ- typical village ised through but tourist office the Udomxai transport is by excruciatingly uncomfortable jeep- guided loop-trips three-day runs inclusive US$65/155 (per person by mountain bike seven/three, or US$195 for one in groups of only). person to arrive low it’s possible, if challenging, are 13 just be- Rte off Turn west by motorcycle. Udomxai yond Salika Resort (2.8km south of to observe milling, girls spinning, weaving, in hollow bamboos and red- water fetching The village’s betel. toothed old ladies chewing simple, unmarked local-style longhouseis a purpose-built with a luxury of relative roll-out bedding and the tap and porcelain squat in the outside shared has no electricity that the village toilets. Note (as yet). little English is spoken and that very or shops, organ- no restaurants are there As will ising food as well as the guide and key Lao, some spoken Khamu or plenty require problem is that the A bigger gesticulation. of almost en- uncomfortable ‘roads’ are access impassably rain muddy after unpaved, tirely in places. and improbably steep and rutted 15km beneath a forested karst ridge near near ridge karst forested beneath a 15km Ong Ban Chom as high cathe- 40m within, it’s a veritable as been a place whose 450m have first dral of Over lamps. millions lit with solar-powered been stalactites the time-worn have years of minerals and crusts of with curious coated from later studded with gravel sometimes you’ll need To gain access wash-throughs. a guide and engage to borrow the gate-key Khamu (40,000K) in Ban Ong, a large Chom entrance is an the cave from which village commands a wide, hour’s walk. The village add char- sentinel trees valley. Tall attractive rice ter- to the surrounding expanseacter of woodland mature of by patches races backed place hills. It’s a great and bamboo-covered , a Meuang burrows over burrows over bills itself as an Nam Kat Waterfall is southwest of the of is southwest . cave system 9am-10pm) EW EW 212 218) Ǎ h NORTHWESTERN LAOS •• Around Udomxai % around 11.30am. Booking isn’t around 11.30am. Booking (

to Muang La at depart when full ew WNGTH 212 753; ǎ Ǎ %

(

bus station

Tuk-tuks cost 5000K per person per hop per hop Tuk-tuks cost 5000K per person

wngth ǎ

picnic site around 23km from the centre of of the centre around 23km from picnic site continue to the town. Turn right in Ban Fan, Chom Ong Caves top tourist attrac- the province’s Potentially tion, this extensive through protected forests. The access road is The forests. through protected that and it’s likely being improved currently will be introduced. an entry fee parking area then walk the last half hour or so then walk the last parking area scenery and plenty of rural interest. A pleas- rural interest. scenery and plenty of to head for is ant target Hop on a decent motorbike and head out in Hop on a decent motorbike and you’ll quickly find attractive any direction AROUND UDOMXAI the tourist office can all help arrange chauf- can all help arrange the tourist office minivans from US$100 per day. feured within city limits. Samlaan Cycling rents high-quality mountain Samlaan Cycling rents and Lithavixay (per day US$10). Xai-Ya, bikes hours). New ones are well worth the extra well New ones are hours). decent bicy- Guesthouse rents kip. Lithavixay cles (per half-/full-day 20,000/40,000K) and torbikes (old/new 50,000/100,000K per day torbikes per 24 by 5pm, 80,000/150,000K if returned cards, but most usefully it rents 100cc mo- cards, but most usefully it rents Xai-Ya rear berths. rear Getting Around possible but they’ll take extra passengers if extra passengers possible but they’ll take the less-comfy one of space allows – generally from Luang Prabang bypasses the bus sta- at the a short snack-break tion but makes China Restaurant An 8am minibus to Mengla leaves from the leaves An 8am minibus to Mengla bed-bus bus station. The Kunming-bound To China around 8.30am and 11.30am from the around 8.30am and 11.30am Say Transportation Centre Regional S departure times. departure The for destinations and text Seecentre. the boxed BUS & S Long Distance Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. Tickets are are Tickets and Saturday. Thursday Tuesday, Guesthouse. Lithavixay from also available lonelyplanet.com internet serviceinternet and sells mobile phone SIM NORTHERN LAOS Mind yourheadonlowbeamsanddoorways. water andthetoiletsare bucket-flush squats. shared terrace amidpalms.There’s nohot withasmallorange-and-turquoise house most conspicuousaccommodation,anew r without/withbathroom50,000/60,000K) Buddha. revered thePraSingkham Buddhastatues, temple most that hostsoneof northernLaos’s trees. Itscentralfeature isaclassicallystyled Nam Phak rivers, attractively awashwithpalm lage and sitsattheconfluenceof theNamLa alternative tothe‘bigcity’.ThisTai Lüvil- offerstowards Phongsali, acharming rural Scenic La Muang muddy slopes. steep involvingsomeseriously the toughest across aslipperyford.Thelast4.5kmare Pla village partway),turnleftanddescend after extensive 11.5km(having crossed Nam lage, turn.Then, take theobviousright-hand tive forest. About vil- Mokkha 1kmafter Ban Hmong) anda2kmstretch of steep,attrac- ofa series villages one (mostlyKhamu, the maintrackfor21km,passingthrough later (over aconcreted ford).Continuealong keep leftatthefirst 1.2km turn,thenright 214 DrHoumphengGuesthouse he’s once againagleaming gold. 1987, theBuddhahad turnedablack-green Buttoday colour‘withsadnessatthe destruction’. Cave.statue hadbeenrehidden in the Singkham Bythetimeanewtemple wasconsecrated in in ruralLaos,thetemple wasbombedflatduring the20th-centuryIndochinawars. However, the built temple almosteverything aroundwhichtoday’s townofMuangLaisnowranged.Like else belonged inLa. initiallyinthe Kept went MuangLa’swaywhentheraftmagically floated upstream againstthecurrent, ‘proving’ it for himselfandsetthestatueonaraft to‘decide’.However, theseeminglyhopelesscontest regions.Khua downriver, The sneakyfolksfromMuangKhua, suggested thattheBuddhachoose tions andthereupon ofacontest becamethesubject betweenresidents ofMuangLaand was draggedoutofthewater amidconsiderabletribula- found byafisherman,PraSingkham Howeverreaches theboatcarryingstatuewassunkinabattle. of hisnewkingdom. Later Buddhist masterpieces sentoutbyLanXang founderFa Ngumtoinspire thefaithfulatfar and reached LaosinAD868viaAyodhyaIndia. In1355itwasreputedly oneoffive great Legend justafew generationsafter claimsitwascastinSri Lanka thehistoricalBuddha’sdeath, Buddha isconsidered tobeespeciallypotent. you promisedhim.It’sastorycommontogreat manytemples, but course thatyouare Andthatwhenitallpansout,youpopbackandleave pure thegift ofheart. Buddhaandyourwishwillbegranted…providingyour concern,justaskthePraSingkham of You’ve gotexamstopass?Wantgetrich?Afraid Don’tworry.Whatever youmightbeinfertile? THE PRASINGKHAM BUDDHA NORTHWESTERN LAOS••AroundUdomxai NORTHWESTERN Inlayed withprecious gold-and-bronze stones,the200kg statuehasaninteresting history. Muang La Muang , just28kmfromUdomxai

( % is Muang La’s is MuangLa’s 020-5428 0029; Singkham CaveSingkham down. Additional There’s justwave nobusstation, thebus springs toanarea where suspension bridge allowsaccessfromthehot palmsandmanicured between lawns. all set open-airhottub, andcuriouslyraised sauna, stylishly appointed toprebookneed apriceypackage toenjoythe neither walk-inguestsnorvisitors, soyou’ll whitewashed walls.Itacceptsbehind tall, The resort hidesanelegantrusticrefinement ( piped intothevery discreet water are levels Some of high. itswaters are est verystream) mod- bringsyoutoMuangLa’s side footpath(viaaroadbridge acrossaside are stillunderconstruction. Some roomsare very basic;thenewestones rooms oneblockbehind,downbytheriver. 50,000K) ( Udomxai usually rolls through around5pm. Udomxai usuallyrollsthrough parting Udomxai.Thelastbusreturning to aroundanhourafter de- MuangLa through process. mud-leeching % % , by1457ithadfoundahomeinspecially When river are levels low,aflimsybamboo Two minutes’ walksouthalongariver- Just beyondisthe pass andMuangKhua toPhongsali Buses hot spring 020-284 1264;www.muangla.com) 020-5533 2712;rwithout/withbathroom30,000/ , which has a separate selection of, which selection hasaseparate guest thatbubblesintotheriver when Muang La s ǎ colombage wngth Nang BeiChitRestaurant salt ’s Pra Singkham ’s PraSingkham ǎ is producedbya directly behind. ew lonelyplanet.com un L Resort La Muang guestrooms, toUdomxai

NORTHERN LAOS

215 falang 8.30am- . More . More h ( Lao Royal Hotel . The cheap- . is seven minutes’ minutes’ is seven 24hrs) (admission RMB15)

h Lao Development Bank but the games played are likely likely but the games played are changes major currencies, but currencies, major changes (per hr RMB3.5-5; casino

. It’s the only Laos–China. It’s the only border open China 1596-154 888; r US$30-1000) Boten’s two cheaper hotels are near the pet- are hotels two cheaper Boten’s At the top (north) end of the market on the the market the top (north) end of At guests about in ferry bell-boys Liveried Àª$ Ò % ing is set behind a little fountain garden on That building is the market. the far west of up with a seemingly taken almost entirely endless gamblers. to be unfamiliar to most Western rol station but neither seem to accept accommodation guests so if you want budget main street the main street 3.30pm Mon-Fri) fair rates at for effortless exchange yuan–kip diagonally across the use the supermarket road. Beside cafe, internet that is the high-tech Season 3 buggieselectric golf cart–style between the the vast multiple buildings of ( in barrack- their 1000-plus rooms are est of greening apartment blocks near the big, like open-air swimming pool eccentric attempt blocks include an ornate at Napoleon III neoclassicism adorned with build- main reception caryatids. The turreted BOTEN ® China raw, commercial of a taste If you want a brief ex- take going there, without actually curious border settlement to the of cursion Boten short excur- an easy makes and to foreigners from Udomxai to Luang route sion while en A awkward in reverse). more Namtha (it’s was a typically sleepy ham- decade ago Boten Lao thatched Today there’s cottages. let of ugly market and a huge, a big casino-resort numbers telephone signage, complex where all Chinese. used are and even the currency (Km15, Rte 7.30am-4.30pm Laos time, 8.30am-5.30pm China time) h ‘Khor kajeh tham tham ‘Khor kajeh (

(Tham Singkham), Padjao Ban Samakisai NORTHWESTERN LAOS •• Boten Lao immigration post A much easier solution than all of the above is to take one of the growing number of handy is to take one of the growing number of handy A much easier solution than all of the above Singkham Cave Buddha (may I have the cave key please)at the key the cave (may I have The The CROSSING THE CHINESE BORDER AT MOHAN & BOTEN MOHAN CROSSING THE CHINESE BORDER AT Laos–China through-bus connections such as Udomxai–Mengla, Luang Namtha–Jinghong and Namtha–Jinghong and Laos–China through-bus connections Luang such as Udomxai–Mengla, Prabang–Kunming. Luang walk north of Boten market. Tuk-tuks shuttle across no-man’s land to the Chinese immigration shuttle across no-man’s land to the Chinese immigration walk north market. Tuk-tuks of Boten walk. Northbound post in Mohan (Bohan) or it’s an easy ten-minute you’d be firmly advised to bought 14-day entry passes claim to have travellers a Chinese visa in advance, though a few have walk up Mohan’s the Chinese immigration post it’s around a 15-minute From on the spot here. 20 little buses depart every to the stand where for Mengla (RMB15, 80 minutes) main street at Mengla’s bus station No 2. You’ll need to nip arrive These or so till mid-afternoon. minutes across that city to the northern till 6pm) 2½ hours, frequent bus station for Jinghong (RMB40, or Kunming (mornings only). , around halfway between, around halfway and Udomxai but a few steeper valley-sides retain a gener- steeper valley-sides retain but a few At least for now. older trees. of ous covering forest-burning seem particularly gratuitous, forest-burning at the southern city limits) but little reason at the southern city limits) but little reason to stop. Between Beng the Oudom and Pak ground becomes rocky, making the ongoing plantations of rubber and teak or for corn cul- rubber and teak plantations of guesthouses in both Muang are tivation. There Bengthe best (one) and Muang Houn (five, undulating slopes and steeper backdrop ridges undulating slopes and steeper backdrop ridges for almost all been pitilessly clear-cut have forest. After Muang Beng, After forest. and especially be- the unappealing Muang Houn, yond bigger, crossing through a section of not-yet-burnt crossing through not-yet-burnt a section of Smoothly asphalted Rte 2W is very attractive attractive is very 2W Rte Smoothly asphalted 40km or so from Udomxai pass- for the first and even Khamu villages ing through pretty is a modern replica but the setting is attrac- is a modern replica opening into a fan – a woodland thicket tive steep dry-rice valley slopes. of to Pak Beng Udomxai climbing a shallow staircase at the end. The and obviously the statue inside isn’t huge cave which it’s just three minutes’ walk to the cave, walk to the cave, minutes’ it’s just three which noy’ Then cross the bridge. second hut south of the second and take roughthe bridge track passablewest – that’s just about by tuk-tuk. huts from of at a collection This terminates 2E) Muang La. In Samakisai ask where the famous Buddha statue once Buddha statue the famous once where west of is 3.7km rested, The depart at around 7am and 11am if there’s if there’s 7am and 11am at around depart sufficient custom. Buddha Cave lonelyplanet.com NORTHERN LAOS in agardenbehindthetinymarket. Chandy Guesthouse bridge towardsLuangNamtha)isthe the bestof three optionsthere (allwestof the cafes onthe mainstripcharge 200Kperminute Internet Several Nam Ha Ecoguide Service. ang-namtha.org; The Information hobomaps.com/luangnamthamain.htm better mapsare available onlineathttp:// are schematic andnotatalltoscale. Much improbable 10kmoutof themaincentre. is 3kmfurthersouthontheRte 3bypass,an busstation Luang.Thenewlong-distance Ban area called Meuang LuangNamthaorsimply Indochina War. Todayit’samostlyresidential before itwas bombedtobitsintheSecond tobeNamtha’scommercialheart This used centre is7kmfurthersouthneartheairport. and touragencies. Asmaller,prettier second enclave internet dotted cafes withguesthouses, grid withinwhich there’s atwo-block traveller 1976, theadministrative hubisawell-spaced istrative hubatthenorthernend.Builtsince collection of villages coalescinginanadmin- Virtually flat,Namthaisinfacta10km-long diverse villages. you intotheregion’s forests andethnically door activitiesororganised ‘ecotreks’ toget offersNowhere abetter in Laos range of out- ered silhouettes inthegoldenglowof sunset. bowl valley,where ridges mountain formlay- off intothewidesurroundingrice- straight tre offers tohead allthefacilitiesyouneed Orderly, ifdull,Namtha’sgrid-pattern cen- % ¹ì¸¤$Õê¾ NaTheuy. around 50,000KtoBan charge 120,000KtoLuangNamthaand Chartered through-buses. Laos taxi-vans (20,000K, twohours) plusassorted China– daily suade travellers there otherwise, are six Boten driversAlthough taxi trytoper- &Away There Getting junction hamletof you’d bebetter20kmsouthatthe offsleeping 216 (NAMTHA) LUANG NAMTHA Orientation thatlocallydistributedBeware touristmaps 086 /pop18,000 Provincial Tourism Office Tourism Provincial NORTHWESTERN LAOS••Luang Namtha(Namtha) NORTHWESTERN s ǎ wngth h ǎ ew 8am-noon &1.30-8pm)

( % to/fromLuangNamtha Ban NaTheuy 020-299 4085;r50,000K)

( % 211 534;www.lu . Marginally doublesas Duang , set , set sion 5000K) War. Judgingfromtheferro-concrete protru- Indochina bombing raidduringtheSecond earlier version, blownover bytheforceof aUS beside itliesthebrickandstuccorubbleof an when first approaching isa2003replica. Right much more historicis views over townare impressive. Smallerand butthe isalittletackier theeffect Up close, gleams majestically whenviewedfromafar. a steepridge directly northwestof town.It a large By farNamtha’smoststrikinglandmarkis WATS &STUPAS afterand virtuallydisappear dark. pain. Tuk-tukscanbefew andfarbetween, gettingwheels, much furtherwillbeamajor withinthemainareasweat even andwithout Renting abicycleormotorbike saves alotof Sights curate currently mapof available. Laos GT-Rider Restaurant a 24hourATM. The (2% commission,minimumUS$3)andhas rencies (commission-free), travellers cheques BCEL 100K; but twoblocksfurthernorth recorders and filmprojectors. munition liesanunexplained pileof oldvideo of craftimplements and20th-centuryam- regional costumesandbeyondtheselection showoff bronzedrums.Dustycases Khamu logical treasures includestonesteles andthree flit. Afew haphazardlylabelled anthropo- 8.30-11.30am Fri) mission 10,000K; The odd,barn-like MUSEUM TaiBan Vieng main market andRoyalHotel. hereright leadsbackanalternative waytothe stupa fromaroadjunctioninfront–turning ofAn obviousset terite roadthatinitiallyparallelstheairfield. isolated onastonyla- Phouvan Guesthouse, site isahillock 3kmnorthwestof the oddly sions, thatwasn’tthe1628originaleither. The style partsof town. towanderintoless-visitedan excuse village- Visiting two20th-centurymonasteries, ( h h 8am-9pm) Golden Stupa 8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) ,

t ( Laos hough thered-gold hough stupayousee % and isjustaboutworthaten-minute h 312 209; isequallyfastforhalftheprice. map(65,000K),themostac- 8.30-11.30am &1.30-3.30pmMon-Thu, Wat BanLuangKhon naga builtin2009,sittingon Luang NamthaMuseum h Manychan Guesthouse& Manychan 6.30am-10.30pm) That Phum Phuk Phum That stairs leaduptothe changes major cur- NIT Internet lonelyplanet.com , presents sells the sells (per min

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to a 6m-high carpark i . You'll find it’s more of a picnic site a picnic site of . You'll find it’s more @ TRANSPORT Bicycle Shops...... Boat Station...... District Bus Station ...... Darasavath Bungalows...... Namtha Riverside Guesthouse...... Phengtavy Guesthouse...... Royal Hotel...... Soulivong Guesthouse...... Thavyxai Guesthouse...... Thoulasith Guesthouse...... Vieng Kham 2 ...... Zuela Guesthouse...... EATING Boat Landing Restaurant...... (see 11) Cake Bread Store...... Heuan Lao...... Manychan Guest House & Restaurant...... Minority Restaurant...... Night Market...... Noodle Shops...... (see 23) Panda Restaurant...... Papaya Restaurant...... Yamuna Restaurant...... INFORMATION BCEL...... NIT Internet ...... Provincial Tourism Office...... SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Golden Stupa...... Green Discovery ...... Jungle Eco Guide Service ...... Luang Namtha Museum...... Nam Ha Ecoguide Service...... (see 3) Namtha River Experience...... (see 24) Wat Ban Luang Khon ...... Wat Ban Vieng Tai...... SLEEPING Adounsiri Guesthouse...... Boat Landing Guesthouse...... sion 2000K) than a scenic wonder but your visit helps put Unless the coffers. a little money into village no need to high there’s level is really water so the hillside steps struggle up and over that sign and walk along the pretty ignore streamside. BAN NAM DI (NAM DY) DI (NAM BAN NAM Luang Namtha, 3km out of Although barely by Laothis hamlet is populated Huay (Lenten) people whose womenfolk still wear traditional indigo tunics with purple necklaces. They and silver-hoop sash-belts specialise pulp into rustic in turning bamboo that you’ll spot paper, using cotton screens At the eastern along the scenic riverbanks. stroll leads a three-minute the village, of edge from a small car 1000/2000/3000K)

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‚ Houa Khoua 30 Ban Na Resort Station (2.7km); To Rte 3 (2.3km); # Na Lea (72.5km); " D Huay Xai (175km) Long Distance Bus Udomxai (117km); " i " i Chaleunsuk (13km);

15 Stupa " i Km 13 post 11 Vieng Phoukha (54km);

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6 6 6666 66 6666 6666 666 666 66 666 66 66 66 Luang Morning Athletics To Heau Pair 8 " 6 (HeanPea)(3km); 4 MuangSing(58km) Phouvan Guest House " 6 Ban Khone Airport Terminal

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6 6 NORTHERN LAOS routes. tosomeofthebesttrekking therights Retains Office. noon &1.30-8pm)AwingoftheProvincialTourism options. combined withkayaking andcanbe getsgoodreports guides. Itsjunglecamptrip com) Humorous,wellinformedandwithverycapable 6964; [email protected];www.thejungle-ecotour. Namtha River Experience Namtha River Jungle EcoGuideService Discovery Green NamHaEcoguideService tothefollowingoptions: self with itsownspecialities,sodon’tlimityour- ‘private surcharge’ of aroundUS$50. others tojoinyou,someagents willaccepta people).Ifyoudon’twant (maximum eight ing tojoinagroupmake thingscheaper signed upalready, very helpfulifyou’re try- tour optionsandhowmanypunters have a minornuisance. are leeches Inthewetseason, and difficulty. ability guidelinesbuttheyvaryinduration of village life. but allare fascinatingforgenuine glimpses peoples are HuayandAkha of those theLao village. Mostphotogenic fortheircostumes tours inaminority stopforatleastanight aking tripsintheNamHa NPA. Many of the trekking, bikingandkay- rafting,mountain Luang Namthaisamajor pointfor starting 218 laos.com; specialises in guided motorbike tours intoethnicvillages. specialises in guidedmotorbike outfits,butalso kayaking Oneofseveral ity Restaurant) Minor- 0344; www.namtha-river-experience-laos.com; Activities Around adozenagencies operate, each Treks Namtha agents displayboardslistingtheir (www.unescobkk.org/culture/our-projects/sustainable-cultural-tourism-and-ecotourism/namha-ecotourism-project) the economicbenefitsofecotourism.Since1999,prize-winning Buttheinhabitantsofthesevillagesare andKhamu. alsolearningties includingLaoHuay,Akha the mountainouspark,woodlandshave tocompete withpressure fromvillagesofvariousethnici- accessible naturalpreserves. That accessibilityisablessingandcurse. Botharoundand within Muang Long(p 226 ), the2224-sq-kmNamHaNationalProtected Area (NPA) isoneofLaos’smost Within easyreach ofLuang Namtha(p 216 ), MuangSing(p NAM HA NPA223 ), Vieng (p Phukha 222 ) andeven that forest protection will becomeaself-chosenpriorityforthecommunities. can’t do,butbyproviding informationonsustainableforestry it’shoped andfishingpractices receives visitorsnomore Authorities thantwiceaweek. don’tdictate whatvillagerscanand Tours are limited tosmallgroups,eachagenthasitsownroutes and,inprinciple,eachvillage ence fortrekkers tolocalcommunitiesandtheenvironment. whileensuringminimumimpact has triedtoensure thattouroperatorsandvillagersworktogethertoprovide agenuineexperi- NORTHWESTERN LAOS••Luang Namtha(Namtha) NORTHWESTERN allfollowcarefully considered sustain- h 8am-9pm) Well regarded private outfit. 8am-9pm) Wellregarded private ( % 211 484;www.greendiscovery ( ( % ( % % 212 025,020-5578 212 047,020-299 211 534; h 8am- hot water, plusfadingposters of Stalin Lenin, mattresses andthinnerwalls.Atleastthere’s sharedSoulivong’s miserable bathrooms,thin beabletostomach the concern youmight bathroom 30,000/40,000K) the traveller restaurants. tecturally blandnorthernpartof townaround Most lodginginLuangNamthaisthearchi- CENTRAL the November toFebruary season. high Popular placesfillupfast,especiallyduring Sleeping the world looksinwhenyou openyourdoor. good hotshowers. It’scentralandquietbut floor roomswitha few localdecortouches and This newplacehas arowof compactground- attractive embroidered bedspreads. rooms are significantlymore basicbutdohave sitting area Cheaper featuring bamboosettees. 60,000K roomscomewithhotwater anda hind afour-table gardenrestaurant, thelarge be- vaguely Viking-stylewoodenbuilding set out/with bathroom40,000/60,000K) pond. hangings andarear balconyoverlooking a Pay wall 60,000Kandyou’llfindRajasthani you get hotwater andalittleshared porch. the roomsare adecentsize. For40,000K est have squattoiletsandcoldshowers but matting wallsandmosquitonets.Thecheap- restaurant, woodenbungalowshave these 60,000K) and friendstowelcomeyouin. SoulivongGuesthouse Adounsiri Guesthouse Adounsiri DarasavathBungalows Phengtavy Guesthouse Phengtavy Set behindan under-used Set backpacker Nam HaEcotourism Project Ifpriceisyouronly (

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NORTHERN LAOS and 219 Two This This 7am-10pm) is a good is a good 212 025; www. h 7am-2pm) 312 398; www. % h (

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h e, Very much imitating much Very h ( ǒ 020-5560 6549; mains 8000- f % ( (snacks 2000-5000K; (noodle soup 8000K; Perched above the river, 7km the river, above Perched night market . Find more noodle stands in the . Find more Namtha Riverside Guesthouse Panda Restaurant Panda Noodle Shops Cake Bread Store Boat Landing Guesthouse ence without the need to trek. At least one At least need the ence without trek. to home evenin an sit-down toilet, albeit has a breakfast, should include outhouse. fee The de- a contribution to the village dinner and muffins. 15,000K, fruit shakes 5000K; is decorated friendly, open-sided restaurant with birds nests and buffalo horns and built a fish pond, vegetable on a slope overlooking colour to interiors that are tasteful but not but not tasteful that are colour to interiors from luxurious. Although removed overly most tourist facilities, the complex has bicycle kayaking organises (20,000K per day), rental and has a truly excellent restaurant and treks on the premises. Eating & Drinking The lively place for snack grazing. on the main side-by-side basic, central eateries servestreet excellent bread A grocery shop with a small selection of and pastries, including fluffily light banana this four-bungalow place also offers a tranquil place also offers this four-bungalow Nam Tha setting and copycat menu at the newer and similar in are Rooms restaurant. albeit with slightly less aplomb. approach, lounger- are and there Pétanque is available It’s 2km south of cushions on the balconies. the centre. US$40/45/55/55) is a the new town, this quiet lodge south of comprising 11 wood- peaceful garden getaway whose bungalows finest features and-bamboo Curiously, the porches. the river-facing are all. Each the best views of rooms have cheapest bathroom bungalow has a private ecofriendly Local fabrics add shower. with solar-heated velopment fund with a guided forest walk walk forest fund with a guided velopment in It all sounds great more. added for 15,000K is spoken, little English as very principle but can feel skills without language coming alone Namtha tourist at the Luang awkward. Ask information. for more office thejungle-ecotour.com/web_jungle/guest/our_gest.htm; r first/subsequent nights US$25/20) Landing Boat Guesthouse, the better-known sáwy khào morning market. theboatlanding.laopdr.com; tw/d/ste/q incl breakfast tw/d/ste/q incl breakfast theboatlanding.laopdr.com;

212 151; d/ 212 166; thoul % % (

Handy for the Handy ) a 030-511 0292; r 60,000K) 020-5555 7768; 500m past Beside the main Rte 312 183; r standard/large 312 183; r standard/large % (

% Zuela consists of two two Zuela consists of % ( ) ( 020-292 9234; [email protected]

The brand new, six-storey The brand new, six-storey % ( NORTHWESTERN Namtha (Namtha) LAOS •• Luang

aW (Huang-Ching Tajodian; (Huang-Ching Tajodian; Thoulasith Guesthouse This brand-new yet timeless hotel gives gives yet timeless hotel This brand-new ) Thavyxai Guesthouse

Royal Hotel Zuela Guesthouse o Vieng Kham 2 village offer a real Khamu homestay a real experi- offer village 3 highway, from central Luang around 20km Namtha, four rustic homes in Chaleunsuk Chaleunsuk Homestays Km 45, Rte 3; per person 50,000K) FURTHER AFIELD bathrobes. Staff speak Chinese English but not to work out room rates and need calculators in Kip (from 150,000K). showers and elements of modernistic style. modernistic style. and elements of showers and luxurious come with carpeting The suites Royal is Namtha’s biggest, glitziest hotel. glitziest hotel. Royal is Namtha’s biggest, excellent beds, walk-in Standard rooms have ste from RMB120/200) and the convivial restaurant spills out into the and the convivial restaurant laundry costs 10,000K is free, garden. Wi-fi delightfully are per kg and the family owners obliging. bathrooms with hot water. Brighter, pricier Brighter, bathrooms with hot water. and wood-panelled walls. air-con ones have and terraces plentiful sitting areas All share brick walls, high ceilings and decent clean sturdy timber-framed houses set back just sturdy timber-framed strip in a calm, gar- from the main traveller exposed Cheaper fan rooms have den area. and the rear, upper-floor balcony would make balcony would make upper-floor and the rear, spot. a pleasant reading tiled floors and showers that run very hot – hot – that run very and showers tiled floors eventually. The location is quiet yet central an upmarket American suburb. Good-sized an upmarket gleaming style have rooms without particular With its tall whitewashed pillar-facade this With its tall pillar-facade whitewashed villa would look right at home in concrete style window through to a bathroom with tub. is available. wi-fi Free standard also squeeze rooms that in a desk a curious Aztec- rooms have Bigger and TV. mous but the beds are stylish, even in the stylish, even in the mous but the beds are a garden just off the main strip, the long upper a garden just off the main balcony is set with two-colour woodwork off enor- rooms aren’t edging. The and filigree district bus station, this ochre-coloured man- district bus station, this ochre-coloured that are sparkling clean rooms sion provides if characterless. large com; fan/air-con r 60,000/80,000K; r 60,000/80,000K; com; fan/air-con lonelyplanet.com 70,000/120,000K; midrange quality at budget prices. Tucked in prices. Tucked at budget quality midrange W [email protected]; r small/large 60,000/100,000K; r small/large 60,000/100,000K; [email protected]; NORTHERN LAOS mains 15,000-40,000K; The relaxing riverside comple- setting h 35,000K; ple (130,000/150,000K) to one-plate meals From five-dish menusfortwo/three peo- cuisineyou’llfind anywhere.northern Lao ments someof thebestandmostauthentic Guesthouse; meals17,000-65,000K; Namtha’s best. with therestaurant’s logo,andthecoffee is arrive incooler jacketsof possibilities.Beers Wi-fi isfree andthemenucovers thegamut the mostpopular fairy-lit street terrace keeps thisplaceamong viting all-woodinterior spillingoutontoa and friedlungs. with dishessuch asgrasshopper,baked frog raoke in.Theexoticfoodmenutempts sets cooler (12,000K).Well,atleastuntiltheka- break foranafternoon (10,000K)orwine beer barge-pavilions make apeacefulplaceto ing towardsMuangSing,thispairof floating 35,000K; available. andwesterncheese. Dosai breakfasts are also substitutes butter tofu masala eer forIndian Indian restaurant. Therichly deliciouspan- made asspicyyouwishinthisunassuming including numerousvegetarian options,are 14,000-26,000K; soupsareand Khamu especiallygood. andWestern options.TheTaiChinese Dam twists onlocaltribalrecipes alongwithLao, bamboo-blind sides,themenuoffers original strip inahigh-ceilinged timberbuildingwith items like ginger scrambledeggs. and Tai Damdishesandcuriousbreakfast Englishlanguage menuincludesAkha whose translated intoEnglish. dishesisonlypartly menu of ThaiandLao interior andashadywraparoundterrace. The restaurant hasatimberandbamboo-panelled h pancakes andWestern breakfasts. classicsalongwith andChinese tions of Lao offers very inexpensive, small, por- ifslightly gardens andkaraoke beer-garden. Themenu 220 HeauPair/Hean Pea Yamuna Restaurant Restaurant Minority Papaya Restaurant HeuanLao BoatLandingRestaurant Guesthouse&Restaurant Manychan 8am-10pm) 6.30am-10.30pm) NORTHWESTERN LAOS••Luang Namtha(Namtha) NORTHWESTERN h h 8.30am-11.30pm) 7am-10.30pm) Thisattractive upstairs corner- h ( % 7am-10.30pm) h 211 111;mains10,000-50,000K; Small, side-street eatery falang 6.30am-10.30pm;

(Km 3, Rte 17;mains15,000- (Km 3,Rte Set behindthemain Set ( ( % % Ifyou’ve bik- been (mains 13,000-30,000K;

( % 212 047;mains13,000- venues intown. 020-5557 1579;mains Moreish curries, 312 398;BoatLanding h W 7am-8.30pm) (

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(895,000K) onTuesday,Thursday and person foraccommodationpaiddirectly to six people)towhich you’lladd50,000Kper per openlongboat(very negotiable,maximum Luang Namthaagencies charge aroundUS$200 Phaeng were tobeapproved. Fortheride, forever damproject ifaproposed nearBan village. belost Buthurry–thisoptionmight enroute ataroadless the NamTha,sleeping down Xai isonatwo-daylongboatodyssey An inspiringalternative waytoreach Huay BOAT Sunday. LaoAirlines AIR &Away There Getting around 70,000Kreturn includingwaitingtime. is 7kmsouthof thecentre. Tuk-tukscharge refreshing lemonmintshake. Therestaurant ‘chilli paste’. Washitdownwithasuperbly bythetranslation them sodon’tbeputoff howhotyouwant some fruity.Youcanchoose flavours,intense sometangy, somesweet, for ballsof stickyrice. bowlbursts Each with asdippingsauces per fist-sizeminibowl)used ofsnacking onaselection butifyou’redetail stillstuckforachoice try The menuexplainseach unfamiliardishin (17,000K) theflavour combinationsare divine. one inperson, forMuang especiallyimportant –youjusthaveseat to arrive earlyandclaim prebookingcase, aticket a guarantee doesn’t bus station The main Sister Restaurant. ler strip–turneastwhere Two thesignsays station There are The twobusstations. BUS &S cheaper solutionthatavoids chartering. you have p nodeadlines,see 222 forapossible anovernightYou’ll stillneed stopenroute. If haveto HuayXaibutyoumight towaitawhile. longboat pricesare around1,300,000K in Lao, andcanhandlenegotiating turn upinNaLae transfers andprearranging aboat.Ifyoujust withagencies providingfrom NaLae, tuk-tuk anddepartures closes the boatstation start river are levels low(typicallyJanuary toJune), When Guesthouse. beside theBoatLanding ter dealfromthe arrange get bet- one).Youmight aslightly whichever familyhosts you(theboatmanwill is walking distance from thetravel- iswalkingdistance Ǎ WNGTH is10kmsouthof town.Ineither ( % 212 072) boat station Ǎ EW fliestoVientiane j ą

ew ( lonelyplanet.com % long distance (from 8000K 312 014) district bus district right right NORTHERN LAOS cave 221 9am, 1.30pm bus 9am, 1.30pm 8.30am minibus 9am bus 8am minibus (Tham 400m past Km 74; admission Nam Eng; of which a 700m section which is open to of

these lie between Km 47 and Km 51 (albeit by brutal road cuttings) and along a marred that parallels the road to the ridge steep karst south between Km 69 and Km 76. Ban Prang at Km 63 sports a big shaggy banyan tree. one is available on site. Extensive lighting, Extensive on site. one is available the ex- up, should soon change wired already connected perience once Vieng Phukha gets to the power grid. Allow around 45 minutes for the visit. KAO RAO CAVES KAO Nam 3, 1.5km east of beside Rte Well signed accessible is this extensive, Eng village, system 10,000K) Hopefully on your arrival the guide/ visitors. guardian will scurry out to meet you. He can’t speak English but should guide you to stroll between minute five mouth (a the cave old banana plants and buttressed overgrown past and trot you gate open the cave trees), the main limestone formations including old crystal with stalactites encrusted deposits. Curious corrugations in the floor that now the roots once formed tree old great look like those at Turkey’s pools like carbonate lips of For now you’d be wise to bring Pamukkale. (flashlight),a powerful torch though a feeble M M M M 4 4 9 8.5 Duration (hours) Station Departures in front of the the in front of 9am-6.30pm) 55 75 100 Cost (‘000 kip) h (

NORTHWESTERN Namtha LAOS •• Around Luang

bicycle shops Jinghong (China) 95 Luang Prabang 80 Mengla (China) Muang Long 50 Muang 6 Sing 40 Na Lae Udomxai 20 Vieng Phukha 3.5 M Vientiane 35 35 20 42 150-160 M 8.30am 3 4 1.5 D 21-24 D 8am L D D 8.30am M six daily 8am-3.30pm 8.30am, 9.30am, 9.30am, 2.30pm noon noon 8.30am, noon, 2.30pm Destination Boten Huay Xai (‘Borkeo’) 20 2 D six daily 8am-3.30pm

M = Main long-distance bus station; D = DistrictM = Main long-distance bus station; bus station Mong (60,000K). bus and change at Pak Prabang For Nong Khiaw or Luang take a Vientiane BUSES FROM LUANG NAMTHA FROM LUANG BUSES

Getting Around despite considerable felling for plantations considerable felling despite old- still some stands of are and fields, there The most notable of growth roadside forest. (Km 87) makes for a pleasant day-trip by for a pleasant day-trip by (Km 87) makes You’ll cut motorcycle from Luang Namtha. where, NPA the Nam Ha through part of Luang Namtha to Vieng Phukha 3 to Vieng Phukha scenic Rte Well-paved, two NAMTHAAROUND LUANG cle (per day 30,000 to 50,000K) makes explor- cle (per day 30,000 to 50,000K) makes from choice plenty of ing far easier and there’s around at the Manychan Restaurant. Renting around at the Manychan a bicycle (per day 6000-12,000K) or motorcy- over the usual fare. If you’re staying centrally If you’re the usual fare. over travellers to find fellow it’s a little cheaper your own – try asking a tuk-tuk of and share distance from buses that include a transfer your guesthouse around 20,000K and cost or airport and the town centre. Most agencies Most agencies or airport and the town centre. for long- and guesthouses packages sell ticket Chartered tuk-tuks charge 10,000K per person 10,000K per person tuk-tuks charge Chartered (minimum 30,000K) between the bus station Long. For bus destinations, times and prices, text. see the boxed lonelyplanet.com Zuela Guesthouse. NORTHERN LAOS the owner there English. speaks rudimentary knowledgeable. officebutMrVongsayisobligingand least sexylooking 392, 020-55985289; 5588 6089;r30,000K) the river at clean concrete directly roomsbutthose across Sainamchuk Guesthouse operates from6.30pmto9.30pm. soon beconnected butfornowelectricityonly showers. Twenty-four-hour powersupplywill is insimplethatched bungalowswithcold accommodation Virtually allViengPhukha Sleeping &Eating the 2kmrideupRte 3. (50,000K minimum)excludingtransportfor ing tour. Such tours cost25,000Kperperson of plantsyouencounter ona40-minute walk- andexplainthemedicinaluses historical details canfillinsketchybut agoodguide(essential) Again there’s nothingbutmuddybankstosee parts’) of ashort-lived 16th-century‘city’. ley thatonceprotected the involves V-shaped walkingalongasteep gul- from atree-choked there Getting muddyrise. istheoddscattering of see brickspokingout moved backafter thewar,sonowallyou’ll materials around 1977whenalltheresidents the centurieswasmostlypillaged forbuilding temple lands isthealmostinvisiblesite of the1530 wood- 85 bututterly hiddeninthicksecondary Just 15minutes’ strollsouthof Rte 3nearKm ( Service Trekking Eco-guide Authentic Akha Hilltrip Phoukha Vieng NamHaEcoguideService andthreeguesthouses eco-tourismoutfits: plinth where Kaysone’s bustisAWOL,seven streets. Within500myou’llfindamemorial tiny towncentre consistsof justthree parallel vicinity have completely deforested. been The direct manyhillsinViengPhukha’s though partly forested landscapescanbemagnificent, tors thanmanyfromLuangNamthaandthe Trailhikes. fewerAkha Such visi- trailssee of theNamHa NPA, onthree notably day trekking for visitingthewestern limits base Sleepy PHOUKHA)VIENG PHUKHA (VIENG 222 Sights histories. interesting pamphletsontribal

% Guesthouse’, Cryptically signed‘Restaurant 020-5570 8138; NORTHWESTERN LAOS••AroundLuang Namtha NORTHWESTERN Vieng Phukha Vieng Wat Mahapot Phuet Mung Khun Guesthouse Khun Mung Phuet h are better valueand slightly h (Km 87, Rte 3) (Km87,Rte 8am-noon &1.30-5pm)Hasthe 8am-noon &1-8pm)Browsethe . What little had survived . Whatlittlehadsurvived (

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% Vieng Phoukha Phoukha Vieng 212 410; 212 403;r40,000K) Khúu Wíeng Khúu isanalternative h 8am-6pm) ( ( % % (‘ram- has 212 020- Restaurant Restaurant lages forhiking. withouttheneed someinterestingviews andsee minorityvil- if potentially dustywaytoenjoysomepretty along theriver’s eastern bankoffers aquiet well-graded dirtroadthatruns the passably Nam Ha jungletreks. Bybicycleormotorbike, for oneperson only),possiblycombinedwith person inagroupof or600,000 eight/two, kayaking agencies canorganise one-daysupported bamboo-choked forests. LuangNamthatour sided banksthatare attractively with shaggy ries of pretty high- rapidstumblingbetween the pea-green NamThaflowsacrossase- For some35kmsouthof LuangNamtha, Down theNamTha (three daily). service Or wave downaHuayXai–Namthathrough onthemainstreet.beside theLNRestaurant hours) departataround9amand1pmfrom S Getting There &Away precious littleonitisactuallyavailable. 30,000K; rusty bulldozerasanincongruous‘sculpture’. of viewfromthegardenarea thatfeatures a comfy bedsandbalconies.There are sweeps r/bungalow 40,000/50,000K) 300m accesslane, On thehilltopdirectly behind,upasteep ing a ride to Ban Khon Kham (per person/ Kham Khon ing aride toBan best approach isgenerally byfind- tostart ranged thingsviaa LuangNamthaagent, the departureset times.Unless you’ve prear- just twominutes’ walkaway. There are no from beneaththeconspicuousnew bridge to variousroadlessriverside villages depart s It’s opposite themarket where twodaily rooms are smallerbuthave better mattresses. with western toiletandcoldshower. Upstairs upper-balcony terrace rooms andclean,bright better one,with afamilyfeel, anunfurnished ( twoguesthouses, Lae’s with manynewerconcrete buildings.OfNa afair-sized fromNaLae, start market village or Pak to you’llneed Thainthedryseason, If you’re tryingtotake aboattoHuayXai NA LAETOPAK THA % ǎ ǎ wngth wngth At thesouthernedge of town, 020-5540 7982;r40,000-60,000K) h ǎ tripshere (140,000/280,000Kper ǎ ew ew 7am-9pm) ( % arrive fromNamtha. Longboats forLuangNamtha(20,000K,1½ 020-5408 0110; Rte 3;mains10,000- 020-5408 0110;Rte has an English menu though has anEnglishmenuthough Samlonchai hasbungalowswith Vangmesay Guesthouse ismarginally the lonelyplanet.com ( % 020-5588 6089; Mein Mein

NORTHERN LAOS

223 petang 8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) h ( 8am-4pm Mon-Fri) Displays of 8am-4pm Mon-Fri) As tiny as the h ( h ( History Exchanges US dollars, euros, Thai baht Chinese yuan and (RMB) but at less than favourable rates. fact-scrolls useful but the staff we met ranged from are and they seemed to find playing apathetic to aggressive Some of the informa- fun that helping visitors. cards more tion they provided proved down-right misleading. Sights are the town’s main street Sprinkled along hybrid mansion- classic Lao-French a few houses. have These mostly 1920s structures his hospital in Muang Sing, which became the his hospital Sing, which in Muang intrigues. setting international for a series of Information starting with numbers that old telephone Note Local landlines now been replaced. 212 have start with 400. Lao Development Bank Post Office Tourist Office Muang Sing) along with the That Xieng Tung Muang Sing) along with became vas- ). In 1803 this area 224 stupa (p sal and was largely to Nan (now in Thailand) 1805 deportationsabandoned following the of Khaenand 1813. But the Chiang re- princes in 1884 from their capital here turned, moving off This kicked Xiang Khaeng on the Mekong. war between France, Britaina 20-year tug of to be split in and Siam, causing the principality sectortwo, with the western including Muang Indochina. Sing being absorbed into French opium Muang Sing rapidly became the biggest Golden Triangle, a function of- in the market In 1946, ficially sanctioned by the French. devastated by Kuomintang town were parts of well into here troops who continued to operate losing the Chinesethe 1950s after civil war. In 1958 the famous American ‘jungle doctor’ ) set up 226 p text, Tom Dooley (see the boxed Tai Lú’ and Tai Neua cultural nexus, plus nexus, plus cultural Neua Tai Lú’ and Tai Akha, Dam, Hmong, for Tai centre a trade and YunnaneseMien, Lolo all of peoples, easy biking dis- within villages whom have wear ele- women still older village Some tance. costumes, making their traditional ments of though don’t people-watching, for colourful want to permission should you to ask forget with a camera. trigger-happy get the of century, a dowager 18th In the late Chiang Khaen principality founded the square, (today’s Ya Wiang Fa grid-plan citadel of rectangle next to it. Ban Khon Phagneung . The well- (admission 5000K) NORTHWESTERN Namtha to Muang Sing LAOS •• Luang , where a range of triangular karst of a range , where

¤ Ø is a traditional yet wealthy village of of village yet wealthy traditional is a

081 / pop 8000 º¤¦ Û The river trip’s scenic highlightThe river is around

From Ban Khon Kham there’s a fair chance BanFrom a fair chance Khon Kham there’s La, Muang Sing is a flat, dusty grid of mostly Muang Sing is a flat, dusty grid of La, a modest sprinkling of with streets unpaved historic buildings. The town is a traditional % the Nam valley of Lying in the broad river MUANG MUANG SING À´ Phoukulom Waterfall streamside stroll to the 6m-high stroll to the streamside layered valley sides in all directions. A pleas- valley sides in all directions. layered ant way to experience these woodlands with- a 15-minute is to take hike out doing a major 49 you’ll find a beautiful stretch of largely largely of 49 you’ll find a beautiful stretch steeply covering forest old-growth untouched tations. However, between Km 30 and Km you might be thinking that Rubber Tree NPA NPA you might be thinking that Rubber Tree of is the extent name, such would be a better slopes for plan- the steep of the clear-felling This 58km route of bouncy asphalt cuts bouncy asphalt cuts of route This 58km 25km For the first NPA. through the Nam Ha outright levels. impossible due to low water NAMTHALUANG SING TO MUANG men with punts and paddles to guide you the trip might prove through. From March steepest slopes. Almost everywhere else, slashsteepest slopes. Almost everywhere to a bamboo the foliage and burn has reduced still mesmeris- scenes are fuzz but the riverine slipping by every ten ing with roadless villages season In the dry to twenty minutes. the calm, by punctuated regularly are waters glistening adds a slightshallow rapids, which frisson to the journey, and you’ll need two skilled boat- small stands of old-growth forest remain on the remain forest old-growth small stands of few days. If you leave much after 9am be aware 9am be aware after much days. If you leave few Huay Xai that reach that you probably won’t in the dark. day because travel boats can’t Ban Phaeng some and where the village peaks soar above of finding a ride to Huay Xai (per person/boat person/boat finding a ride to Huay Xai (per of within a 10 hours) 150,000/1,000,000K, about and dinner. Don’t forget a phrasebook. Don’t forget and dinner. to occasional visitors and informal homestays visitors to occasional a standard 50,000K including breakfast charge ity comes from solar panels. There’s no formal no formal solar panels. There’s ity comes from accustomed but boatmen are accommodation Kham little a dinky fishermen. There’s and weavers house-shopwat and tiny electric- but the only boat 50,000/300,000K, around 90 minutes). 90 minutes). around boat 50,000/300,000K, up the riverbank, steeply Climbing lonelyplanet.com signed trail starts at Km 40.8. 666

NORTHERN LAOS bling fragment of the former19th-century wells style lever Some villagers stilldrawwater from andornate gilded stupa.and anunusuallytall porch agogwithred-tongued golden Luang WatNamkeo ing monasticbuildingsare at vertical prayerflags.Themost visuallystrik- red of pillars andceilings,theuse long such assilver-stencilledtails patterning on people costs5000Kextra. Watching a 40-minute videoontheAkha ofand sixcases culturalartefacts upstairs. Fri) Museum Tribal buildingsisnowhometothetwo-room these Tai Themostdistinctive LüGuesthouse. of andthe thetouristoffice examples house ing awraparoundroofed verandah. Classic topped withawoodenupperstorey featur- ground-floor wallsof brickandstucco 224 cause serious offence. serious cause Lak Bâan opposite. Nearbyyoucanalsofind amodest ‚ o (75km) Kok Xieng To 1 2 3 UN SING MUANG , which boastscostumedisplaysdownstairs In localwats,lookfortypicalTai Lüde- The armybarracksretains apitiful, crum- asn Monument Kaysone 6 " 19 i " NORTHWESTERN LAOS •• Muang Sing LAOS••Muang NORTHWESTERN 6 6 66 66 12 À 24 " 26 # # 5 9 spirit-totem, buttouching itwould # 18 i " # i " A 6 4 17 ; " #

#2 15 (admission 5000K; 8 intheslowlygentrifying 1 Q m57 Km " i " 7 "

post ‚ og etuat(5km); Restaurant & Lodge # htXegTn (5.5km); Tung Xieng That ` # Station @ " 2 Buddhist 25 un a h (58km) Tha Nam Luang . Thelatter features anentry Petrol oSuaMountain Stupa To X " 22 3 7 13 H # 16 H # # 10 # 6 " Board Information Tourist i " 6 " @ " 21 i " S " i " 23 11 20 h # post 58 Km Wat XiengJai 8.30am-4pm Mon-

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am B Si ng i " shaduf- Guesthouse Saengkhammy naga bâan and 14 Hospital i " a in a ...... Jai Xieng Wat Luang...... Namkeo Wat Museum...... Tribal ...... Man Tiger ...... Wells Lever Shaduf-style Tour...... Saophoudoy ...... Market Old ...... Market New Bâan...... Lak 22) Eco-Trek...... (see Tribe Hill Wall...... Fortress French 3) Exotissimo...... (see ACTIVITIES & SIGHTS Office...... Tourist Office...... Post ...... Bank Development Lao INFORMATION

G #

tograph thescenenoonewouldthinkof wall fortress French atmosphere thatspills over intotown. dance performances addtoageneral carnival province gathertocollectalmsandtraditional ofbase thestupa,monks fromaroundthe offer candles, flowersaroundthe andincense November, when hordesof merit-makers late-Octoberlunar month,between andmid- alive atfestival time,iefullmoonof the12th 200m after Km52.Thisplacereally comes branches southoff theLuangNamtharoad trees’, 1kmupavery accesstrackthat rough It’s onagrassyplateau dotted with‘sacred border.Xishuangbanna, acrosstheChinese out isreminiscent of similarstructures in at WatNamkeo lay- Luang,theoctagonal 1792. Shorter andlessembellishedthanthat Muang Sing’sfounderdowager-queen in Tung Xieng That The bustling foodsellers. fabrics andafew half-hearted ultory handfulof embroiderers so-so selling doing so. Around 6kmsoutheastof MuangSing, The 66 Station Petrol old market C X " odr(0m;Pn a Border Hai Pang (10km); Border 13 12 11 10 new market new market 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 ot(oasOl)(12km) Only) (Locals Post oAia(k) Chinese (8km); Adima To isthefamousstupabuiltby ‚ A3 A3 A2 A1 A3 A2 A2 A2 A2 A2 A3 A2 B2 , builtin1954,features ades- . Were itnotillegaltopho- 00.2miles0400m aa Motorcycle...... Kalao Station...... Bus TRANSPORT ...... Nightclub Singsavanh ENTERTAINMENT 20) ...... (see Restaurant Lü Thai Restaurant...... (Panna) Phunnar MuangSingViewRestaurant.....EATING ...... Guesthouse Viengsay Guesthouse...... Lü Thai ...... Bungalows Singduangdao Hotel...... Lern Cha Sing ...... Guesthouse 2 Iu Phou Guesthouse...... Sing Muang ...... Guesthouse Chanthimieng Guesthouse...... Anousone SLEEPING 66 66 is nearthebusstation. @ i lonelyplanet.com !0 À D 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 A1 A1 A3 A3 A3 A3 A3 A2 A3 B2 B2 B2 B2 NORTHERN LAOS

225 (r 50,000K)

030-511 0834; 030-511 0834; 020-200 4565; 020-200 4565; % % ( (

030-511 0866; r 60,000K) 020-5586 6909; phouiu@ 400 020; d/tw 50,000/70,000) 400 020; d/tw 50,000/70,000) % % ( (

020-239 3398; r with thin/thick The huge selling The huge point % ( % (

Setaround a pleasant garden Three types of decently ap- types of Three Adima New rooms have decent bathrooms, New rooms have Anousone Guesthouse Phou Iu 2 Guesthouse o Singduangdao Bungalows Sing Cha Lern Hotel Sing Cha Lern Chanthimieng Guesthouse but not for anything much else. but not for anything much 50,000/60,000K)mattresses ex- of on the edge is that you’re Adima of classic Akha that village actly the kind of to see. Many most people come to the region yahoo.com; small/medium/large 80,000/ bungalow 200,000/400,000K) fun outdoor rock-clad bungalows have biggest sparse and shower spaces but furnishings are rough. The small twin bun- floorboards are comfortable All have value. better galows are an there’s beds, fans and small verandahs, herbal saunaon-site (10,000K) and massage doubles as a (per hr 50,000K). The reception handicraft shop and sells decent town maps. SING MUANG OUTSIDE Stupa Mountain Lodge & Restaurant wooden bungalows with sweep- Once-refined seriously and the ing views now feel neglected seems dormant. It’s 5km restaurant entirely towards Namtha, handy for That Xieng Tung and from the appealing upstairs sitting area. upstairs and from the appealing This grand-looking mansion-guesthouse has in a proud, modern well-equipped rooms and gilded capitals, house with pillars fronted though the whole place was on our last visit Celeste–style. deserted, Marie well spaced in a pleas- bungalows are pointed All weighbridge. behind the truck ant area The smaller bungalows hot showers. have come with bamboo walls and board floors, bases. The or brick walls with tiled concrete Bo speaks decent on stilts. ones are larger English. floors, good new mattresses and windows and windows mattresses good new floors, fields. the rice back towards looking clean 22 building offers two-storey This ochre with hot rooms characterless, and neat, if has area communal A breezy and fans. water mock-leather plus ageing chairs, two lounge to do better guests with nothing where sofas single TV. the can watch r 60,000K) but the toilets, and Western heaters water view across oceanic attraction is the greatest guest rooms rear rice paddies from both upper r 60,000-70,000K) of lawn, young trees and banana fronds, the trees lawn, young of

, Pang Pang 400 400 and and % to be to be ( 020-5546 7833) Rooms are Rooms are % ( Muang Sing Valley Valley Muang Sing 020-239 3398; r 40,000K) 7.30am-6.30pm) Saophoudoy Tour (r 30,000K) % h

(

030-511 0578; somphonemx@ (s/d/tr 30,000/40,000/40,000K) Tiger ManTiger

is only 700m up the trail. % (

NORTHWESTERN LAOS •• Muang Sing 030-511 0404; www.exotissimo.com) 030-511 0404; www.exotissimo.com) % , a small outfit specialising in the in the , a small outfit specialising Nam Dath ( (3000K) from the tourist office or Phou the tourist office or Phou (3000K) from

, a locals-only China–Laos border crossing Viengsay Guesthouse ThaiGuesthouse Lü Some short-duration tours continue to continue Some short-duration tours If you’re staying at Adima, roughly 8km If you’re

have partly stained walls but sparkling clean have behind a traditional-style wooden building matted walls and double-plus-single beds. walls and double-plus-single matted has a variety of ageing but well-kept budget budget but well-kept ageing has a variety of ones, accessed from the rooms. The larger bamboo- looking upper balcony, have archaic This classic, if hardly plush 1920s building small, cell-like affairs but have mosquito nets affairs but have small, cell-like not If the water’s showers. and solar-heated and clean the solar warm head up to the roof for the views. panels…then linger CENTRAL MUANG SING CENTRAL MUANG Muang Sing Guesthouse but the hilly scenery is largely one of newly one of but the hilly scenery is largely rubber trees. planted Sleeping 12km east of Muang Sing. Middle-distance 12km east of certainly pleasantmountain from views are the Mountain Overlook Guesthouse near here Hai from Muang Sing, you’ll find a series of very very from Muang Sing, you’ll find a series of within easy walking dis- villages interesting tance – the popular yet still authentic Akha of village Exotissimo Hill Tribe Eco-Trek hotmail.com) relatively helpful and well organised. Other Other helpful and well organised. relatively possibilities include experiences. We found 012; www.muang-sing.com; Muang Sing’s six ecotour agencies, which also also which agencies, Muang Sing’s six ecotour homestay and treks longer a gamut of offer somewhat less voyeuristic you can engage a a you can engage somewhat less voyeuristic from one of guide for as little as 100,000K and labels the ethnicities of the valley’s vil- the valley’s of and labels the ethnicities experience the village-visiting To make lages. Map Map roads Iu 2 Guesthouse. The map shows major fields surrounding town. To do it yourself yourself town. To do it fields surrounding start by purchasing motorbike, by bicycle or helpful Wolfgang Kom’s is to venture into the minority villages that that into the minority villages is to venture and sugar cane rice paddies of dot the valley Activities Muang Sing come to visitors main reason The lonelyplanet.com more remote Xieng Khaeng district towards Xieng Khaeng district towards remote more always it’s worth comparing sev- As Burma. eral agents. Three guest rooms in a newer block tacked guest rooms in a newer block tacked Three NORTHERN LAOS of backpacker standbys, it serves arange ofof backpacker itserves standbys, To Luang Namtha (20,000K, two hours, 58km) To Luang Namtha(20,000K, twohours, 58km) (25,000K, 1½hours) at8am,11amand1.30pm. of town, the From & Away There Getting pop. andChinese live Lao the Singsavanh where thelocalsget down to by9pmexceptat Muang Singisdeadasleep SingsavanhNightclub Entertainment available ishitandmiss. The menuiswiderangingbutwhat’sactually much themostattractive placeintowntoeat. of ricepaddies,makingitveryendless sea floored stiltpavilion overlooks aseemingly 5000K; rice explained inthemenu. fare, well authentic localandnorthernLao h làap cated placeforinexpensive friedrice,noodles, 8000-15,000K; low-grade ‘ethnic’tat. ing sales-folk tryingtopeddlesouvenirs and main street tend abarrage tosuffer of annoy- A varietyof alongthe guesthouse-eateries tuk-tuk fromtowncosts10,000Kperperson. andAdimais600msouth.A 7), turnright the faredge of Udomsin(500mafter Km Ban From MuangSingtake thePang Hai roadto pealing rusticrestaurant overlooks fishponds. hot showers andbucket-flush toilets.Theirap- bungalows aren’t especiallystylishbutdohave ing distance. Adima’ssturdybrickandthatch other minority villages are withineasywalk- 226 Eating Muang Sing View Restaurant SingView Muang LüRestaurant Thai (Panna) Restaurant Phunnar opium. Formuchmore read JamesFisher’s flawedbutdetailedDooleybiography that theflightsbroughtinmedicalsuppliestohisMuangSingbasewouldreturn ladenwith books helpedencouragetheUSpoliticalslidetowardswarinIndochinaandrumoursabound Corps (foundedin1961,theyearDooleysuccumbedtocancer).However, hisanti-Communist tation, thiscomplexcharacter wascited byPresident asaninspirationforthePeace Kennedy Muang Singin1958.Passionately Catholic yetdismissedfromtheUSNavyforhissexualorien- opinions are stilldividedover whosetuphisfamousbenevolenthospitalin the‘jungledoctor’ Saint orshamelessself-promoter? HumanitarianorCIApawn?Fifty yearsafter hisearlydeath, DOOLEY TOM MYSTERIOUS 7.30am-8pm) andsoups. NORTHWESTERN LAOS •• West of Muang Sing LAOS••WestofMuang NORTHWESTERN s h ǎ bus station wngth h 8am-7pm) Along with a typical selection Alongwithatypicalselection 7.30am-8pm) ǎ ew in the northwest corner inthenorthwest corner ( Thissimplebamboo- h depart for Muang Long departforMuang Long 7pm-11.30pm) Airyifunsophisti- (mains 10,000-20,000K; (mains 10,000-25,000K,

( % 400 004;mains Mostof English-speaking touristinformation.Keen tive silver ‘coin’head-dresses andbillowing ally large proportionof womenweardistinc- predominantly districtwhere Akha anunusu- a and fast,theXiengKokroadleadsthrough Dusty andunpaved butreasonably smooth WEST OFMUANG SING and guesthouses. main-streetavailable agencies fromseveral English. Bicyclerental (perday30,000K)is asnobodyherea goodphrasebook speaks Motorcycle motorbikes possiblethrough isindeed Despite denials,renting thetouristoffice’s Around Getting s customersadded ifenough showuponthelast be might 2pm and3pm.Anextra5pmservice leave minibuses at8am,9.30am,11.30am,1pm, rooms (squat toilet). and haswater heaters bath- intheattached ( thefunctional bus stand, with squattoilet and coldshower. Near the r 40,000-50,000K) some roomsat road inamodestgardenwithsitting areas, backfromthemainmarket/bus Set stand. withintwoblocksofhouses MuangLong’s next-day departure. There are guest- seven Mr Tuicanorganise a varietyof Mon-Fri) office oftal thisinteresting districtand its initself, Lacklustre Long Muang western end. atthevillage’sroad (northside)onarise swingisbrieflyvisiblefromthemain Akha At indigo blouses. % ǎ wngth 020-5556 0225;r50,000K)

( % is theoneplaceyou’re likely tofind ǎ ew

020-5519 5561; (per day80,000K; fromMuangLong. are very large andall come Thatsany Ban Tao Home Muang Long Muang h h isnew,very clean 8-11.30am &1.30-4pm

8am-5pm) Siseng Guesthouse ( % lonelyplanet.com Dr America , atraditional 020-5534 8337; isthecapi- but bring treks tourist tourist . Kalao Kalao for

NORTHERN LAOS lào- 227 . For travellers, the the travellers, . For 020-5440 1326; without/with bathroom (special morning market). To (special morning market). (literally ‘paradise’) (literally is an ap- where rooms have decent new rooms have where % (

º¨ É - Õ$ - Monsavan thalat nat nat thalat 088 / pop 3500 production, whose can be various stages National Geographic National º¤¢¸¾ Û En route to Muang Khua, Km En route 800m after Plans to make Boun Neua the new pro- Boun Neua Plans to make perused without charge if you’re able to stop if you’re perused without charge minutes. five for here láo À´ % Muang Khua inevitable is an stop little Pretty transiting between Laosif you’re and Dien in Vietnam or takingBien Phu the Nam Ou Sa (Phongsali) and between route Hat river Akha women are often in evidence here and in evidence here often Akha women are day for the appear every tenth many more big consider staying their dawn arrival watch four-room at the bus station’s unmarked Guesthouse 30,000/40,000K) squat toilets, the ensuite Two have mattresses. no bathrooms whatsoeverothers so you must pay to use the bus station’s loo! 75, famous for its named village propriately MUANG KHUA vincial capital have yet to be realised though yet to be realised vincial capital have ‘Phongsali’ home to misnamed it’s already Airport. NAM NOI PAK ¯¾¡$ ) is 214 from Udomxai via Muang La 2E Rte (p although most of and attractive, newly paved has long-since been burnt and re- the forest Nam placed with bamboo fuzz. At Km 64, Pak Sin Xai on some maps) is the Noi (marked rough 1B to Phongsali junction at which Rte than a bus stand It’s little more north. strikes shop-stalls, some sellingplus a few hard-to- for intended apparently identify creatures human consumption. Colourfully dressed might feel that they’ve walked onto the pages the pages onto walked might that they’ve feel of settlement most visited is Muang province’s to Khua, by river a useful point linked transit Nong Khiaw by rough and Bien road to Dien Further north the province in Vietnam. Phu well off the standard tourist trail by is kept on seriouslyarduous journeys rough and/or Muang – the only asphalt links muddy roads Khua to Udomxai and Phongsali to Mengla can’t cross (China). Annoyingly foreigners else nor anywhere the Chinese border there Dien Bien (yet). The terrible in the province road is being totally rebuilt. Phu , (r without/with bath- 030-511 0696; r 50,000K) % (

to Huay Xai are easier to Huay Xai are ew ǎ offering basic bamboo-walled offering Nam Noi PHONGSALI PROVINCE •• Pak wngth ǎ s Xieng Kok Resort Wang Jiang Lou Guesthouse ¡ Ü

Arriving in Xieng Kok by boat you climb Arriving in Xieng Kok by boat you The two roads converge again within 300m two roads converge The

tion’s most traditional hill tribes. Trekkers tion’s most traditional hill tribes. Trekkers No longer Laos, not yet China, Phongsali is Laos,No longer not yet China, the na- and home to some of a visual feast you’re prepared to charter. prepared you’re PHONGSALI PROVINCE outside the town’s little pharmacy. Finding even if can be hard here, any other vehicle where the minibus to Muang Long (20,000K, where 8am and 2pm from at 6am, leaves 35 minutes) rooms in a stilt building with disconcerting floorboards. A sec-holes between the ageing ond, newer building is under construction. ferior ferior room 30,000/50,000K) squat toilet, cold shower and grubby bathroom in- for the marginally right instead walls. Veer a line of 11 simple timber bungalows overlook- a line of with balcony, private each ing the Mekong, the steep riverbank to a loop of asphalt road to a loop of riverbank the steep left that fronts the immigration booth. Veer for the leave you with serious immigration worries. leave only in Thai ports further south and that could make the river trip at all. If you manage to trip at all. If you manage the river make that it boat, be sure cargo a ride on a organise will be able to let you off in Laos – some dock June the water levels are usually too low to levels are June the water to find. Although a daily 9am speedboat de- by the Muang Long tourist is touted parture you’ll passengers no fellow are office, if there to January a boat. From late to charter have tinuing to Tonpheung (p 178 ), from which ), from which 178 (p tinuing to Tonpheung onward should cost around 900/3500B per person/ should cost around 900/3500B and con- boat. Consider paying 1200/4500B Mom (p 178 ) is roadless and a speedboat) 178 Mom (p of travellers who come to find a boat along travellers of the of stretches Laos’s attractive one of more and Muang between here The area Mekong. Otherwise, despite its reputation as a smug- Otherwise, its reputation despite little place a sleepy, it’s attractive gling route, and Valley surveying Mekong deep a slice of the Burmese when banks behind. In autumn, call in at high, Chinese barges levels are river Kok attracts a trickle port and Xieng the river On market days (the 14th or 28th of any 28th of (the 14th or days On market hill-tribe folks Xieng Kok attracts month) from surrounding countries. and traders Xieng Xieng Kok §¼¤¡ lonelyplanet.com NORTHERN LAOS Sernalli Hotel cananswerquestionsandar-Sernalli h sometimes exchange Thaibaht. dong forkipandviceversa. Someothershops Agricultural canexchange PromotionBank signed anun- banks atall.Whenthebankisclosed, whereNeua andNongKhiaw, there are no change in MuangNgoi foryourstays enough Fri) at the dongandThaibaht only), euros,Vietnamese you canchange USdollars (cleannewnotes in Phongsali,thenearest isinUdomxai)but There isnointernet cafe andnoATM (nor nor appropriate. Vietnam, hardbargaining isneitherrequired andunlikerelax. inneighbouring ThisisLaos, you’re arrivingfromDienBienPhu, please the NamOuandPhak rivers If meet. town charm amidstarburst palmswhere set hasoodlesofthe latter, MuangKhua small- as Whilenotasspectacular Nong Khiaw. 228 Information Udomxai (100km) Muang La(72km); Pak NamNoi(35km); To BusStation(1.5km); Government 1 3 2 MUANG KHUA Offices . Ifyou’re headingdownriver, remember to Te helpful The 8.30-11.30am &1.30-4.30pmMon-Fri) PHONGSALI PROVINCE •• Muang Khua Khua ••Muang PHONGSALI PROVINCE 6 Lao Development Bank Lao Development pots andpansshop Memorial Kaysone AC Wat Development Agricultural tourist office tourist (for Phongsali) Bank To HatSa 100km Km 100 post ( h 2 Village Khamu

5 Nam Phak Nam 7

7am-6pm) ( h

3 ( % 8.30am-3pm Mon- opposite the 9 020-284 8020; besidethe B Market 10 4 1 INFORMATION ors fie...... B2 Tourist Office...... Pots &PansShop...... Lao DevelopmentBank...... 14 Bridge under construction 11 Nam Noi.Thepopulationonlymoved here 18 on theheavily deforested ridges above Pak Pala anAkha trek Bakha, village toBan high options, includingavery one-day pleasant support. and introducethevillages thatyourpurchases explanation boardsexplaintheirproduction but appealingrange of localcrafts.Photo- Shop road turnsmuddy.The other palmdappledvillage area where the the colourfullittle Nam Phak river. easierstrollpasses Aneven sion bridge quartercreakyKhamu acrossahigh, shortwalktakes youtotherustic A pleasant Sights &Activities electricity didn’tcomeonatall. visited there were stilldayswhenthemains the powergridinMarch 2010,butwhenwe a meeting. office hours, call range treks. Ifyouwanttobookatrek outof & Restaurant Guesthouse Manotham Sop Hunborder(60km); Badminton To MuangMai(34km); Dien BienPhu(94km) trekking organisesThe touristoffice several connected wasofficially to Muang Khua Court at Chaleunsuk Guesthouse sells asmall sells atChaleunsukGuesthouse

13 Nam Ou Nam (bike/pedestrian only)over the 8 3 2 1 B2 B2 12 0 0 Keo Nam OuGuesthouseRestaurant..(see8) Tuk-tuk toBusStation...... Tug-ferry...... Bus toDienBienPhu...... Boats toHatSa&NongKhiaw..... Sayfon...... Sernalli Hotel...... Nam OuGuesthouse...... Manhchay Guesthouse...... Daosavan Guesthouse...... Chaleunsuk Guesthouse...... Suspension Footbridge...... Ethnic HandicraftsShop...... (see5) TRANSPORT EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES ( wat % andheadsintoan- 020-284 8020) Ethnic Handicrafts Ethnic Handicrafts lonelyplanet.com Nong Khiaw(90km) D To MuangNgoi Neua (72km); toarrange 0.1 miles suspen- 200 m 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 B3 C2 C2 C2 B1 B2 C2 B2 A3 B1 B3 NORTHERN LAOS

229 bus station is nearly 3km west of the is nearly 3km west of to Pak Nam Noi (11,000K, Nam Noi (11,000K, to Pak ew ǎ wngth ǎ Heading for Laos this way it’s essential to for Laos this way it’s essential to Heading s CROSSING THE VIETNAMESE CROSSING THE VIETNAMESE TRANG & SOP HUN TAY BORDER AT between Muang KhuaDaily buses and Dien border cross the Laos–Vietnam Bien Phu 26km east of Muang Mai. With a road that’s rebuilt, being entirely rough but currently but making route the trip it’s a picturesque you’ll end up in hops isn’t recommended: and risk than the bus fare paying far more no fa- are getting stranded part way. There at either border cilities or waiting vehicles by at least 3km separated posts, which are of no-man’s-land. 31km road from Tay The is paved. Trang to Dien Bien Phu US$ (eg bring ample convertible currency is in Udomxai. While ATM cash) as the nearest far from Muang Khua,not terribly that’s an to jump prefer annoying detour if you’d really towards chill-out Nong Khiaw on a riverboat Phongsali. or trek-worthy Muang Khua’s inconvenient Muang Khua’s inconvenient at- on the Nam Ou is a very Boat travel (900m past Km 97, Rte 2E) tuk-tuks rare Very towards Udomxai. river once full 5000K) head out there (per person from near the Lao Development Bank. Buses depart at hours) to Udomxai (30,000K, three the For Phongsali take 8.30am, noon and 3pm. 8am Udomxai–Phongsalione hour) and await the around 10am. It usually arrives bus there. not in long as you’re as alternative, tractive sometimes Sa, boats Hat to a hurry. Upriver to connect with the last bus to too late arrive boats to Muang Ngoi Phongsali. Downriver easier to find than to Nong Neua can prove trees, the Sayfon has a wide English-language English-language has a wide the Sayfon trees, available. is actually about half which of menu, particularly are in ginger The mushrooms good. Getting There & Away in Vietnam Phu bus to Dien Bien The across from a point just (50,000K) departs by from town; it costs 2000K the Nam Ou or motorised canoetug-ferry to cross. Bus de- in both di- around 5am currently are partures gruelling hours. than ten taking more rections once road con- hours This should drop to five times when departure struction is complete, sociable. will doubtless become more

Clean, Muang Muang Set high 210 844; mains 210 847; d/tw 210 847; d/tw % (

% 210 841; r 30,000K) ( 210 820; Rte 2; r 50,000K)

% ( 210 844; s/tw without bath- This rambling guest- % (

% ( 212 445; r 150,000K) % ( PHONGSALI PROVINCE •• Muang Khua 210 843; mains 12,000-30,000K) Perched on stilts overlooking a overlooking on stilts Perched % (

Daosavan Guesthouse Nam Ou Guesthouse Sayfon

Sernalli Hotel Chaleunsuk Guesthouse Manhchay Guesthouse Luang Prabang–based Tiger Trail (p 159 ) 159 Trail (p Prabang–basedLuang Tiger above the river with views through the palm the river above (25,000K) and a range of western breakfast breakfast western of (25,000K) and a range stirfries and Thai- options plus a selection of Lao dishes. cooks good, if wafer-thin, ‘steak’ and chips and chips ‘steak’ cooks good, if wafer-thin, Eating Nam Ou Guesthouse Restaurant 10,000-25,000K) adequate, with soft-wood fittings and Western Western fittings and with soft-wood adequate, cramped and lacking bathrooms, but they’re verve. any real the small lobby is full of carvedthe small lobby is full of hard-wood perfectly clean and The rooms are furniture. Khua’s the Sernalli’s only ‘hotel’, facade sug- a certain neo-colonial elegance and gests petitors but showers are cold and it’s 1km are but showers petitors from the boat landing on the main road to the bus station. On stilts above the Nam Phak riverbank, riverbank, the Nam Phak On stilts above than most com- taste more have rooms here planets. Free tea is available in the ample com- is available tea planets. Free it’s the best Altogether munal sitting terrace. deal in town, except when the mains power’s a generator. off – it doesn’t have and hot showers. Most also come with a desk and hot showers. and plastic stars with and a ceiling patterned 50,000/60,000K, tw with separate bathroom 50,000K)50,000/60,000K, tw with separate comfy beds large sized rooms have generously ones are very basic bamboo boxes. basic bamboo boxes. very ones are house overlooking the Nam Ou tug-ferry has the Nam Ou tug-ferry house overlooking a hot rooms. The best have of a hodgepodge but the cheaper terrace shower and shared room 25,000/40,000K, r 50,000K) Above a family shop beside the tourist office, a family shop beside the tourist Above shared rooms come with simple box the very It’s no worse squat toilets and cold shower. price. than you’d expect for this There are nearly a dozen options. nearly a are There for longer,, experience-based stays in such staysexperience-based in such for longer,, villages. Sleeping & Eating and metal-beaded top-knots. top-knots. and metal-beaded is pioneeringexperiences ‘voluntourism’ years ago and many of the women still wear women still the of ago and many years aprons Pala gaudy-coloured the traditional lonelyplanet.com range of lively riverside scenes, the Nam Ou riverside lively of range NORTHERN LAOS Tai to fort. This roadcontinues eventually with thePhongsali mainroadopposite Boun onaroadthatformsT-junctionthe sawmill 3km outof central BounTai, 400mbeyond with paidcompanions. Thelocationissome likely log-truckdrivers, tobeChinese possibly directly behindandyourfellow guests are there’srural setting, anoisywarehouse plot around alawnbutdespite apredominantly bamboo-walled bungalowssetpleasant [email protected]; bungalow40,000K) you’re lucky. basicfoodif door hasriver viewsandserves thin, aged beds.Theragged beer-house next the upstairs roomswithwoodenwallsand with newmattresses anden-suite toiletor the smallconcrete box-rooms, bigger versions south. Pricesare whetheryoutake thesame river bridge asyouarrive intownfromthe marked peach-coloured justacrossthe house Guesthouse be picked upinPhongsali. onaheadto fice. Your backpackcanbesent phone wellaheadtoPhongsali’s touristof- Toorganise guides, later inthedryseason. river crossings,itshouldonlybeattempted withoverPhongsali. However, 30stream and time fortheonwardbustoBounNeuaand and emerges Pakha onthelastdayatBan in Nuquivillages DjepiaandAkha Akha Laobit, three-day fromBounTai,Starting thefascinating fortress notworthaspecialtrip). (certainly strangled brickruinsof aformerFrench theroot- andperuse from thebusstation tonipacrosstheroad That’s longenough utes at generally stopforten buses Phongsali min- % ® Tai Boun welcome anovernight break. Boun Tai might where ontwowheels those well awayfromtheroad,especiallysouthof attractive butthemajority of villages are set roller-coaster Yo. asfarBan Thesceneryis rough The route northisanuncomfortably than anticipated. thereforemight take aday(ormore) longer Eitherway,beawareKhiaw. thatthetrip 230 PAK NOITOPHONGSALI NAM ÷ - $ Phonsevanh Guesthouse Phonsevanh Unlovely butsurvivable, 088 /pop3500 ê PHONGSALI PROVINCE ••PakPHONGSALI PROVINCE NamNoi toPhongsali É Boun Tai a Ln Trek Lan Nam ( % 020-5509 5806;r30,000K) , 79kmnorthof Pak NamNoi. Yang, through passes ( % hassimplebut 020-5588 7118;tvp. Khem NamLan Khem istheun- north istherelatively grandnew worn.Around 600mfurther tier andslightly overlooking afishpond butroomsare mus- road) isthenorthernendof painfulRte 1B. of Rte 1B,Km62of theMengla–Phongsali if connectingtoOuTai (p 235 ) orforthose here Staying provecial capital. might handy tively astheunlikely proposed newprovin- newer concrete tenta- that hasbeen houses scattering of mostly Boun Neuaisadiffuse A localtransporthub41kmwestof Phongsali, % ® Neua Boun ver baubles. tive flat-toppedcowlsdrapedwithsil- raised, Phixo village where womenfolkweardistinc- passing through smooth asphaltleadsallthewaytoPhongsali. only bordercrossingtoChina).Turningright, Turning leftleads19kmto inthenextvalley. the right of jungleremain stands shaggy to surviving hogthehillstoleftbutsome plantations Tai Lütemple totheleftof theroad.Rubber beyond Km89, and archaic A kilometre beyondnoticethe Tai Lüstupa there’s apretty littlevillage withthenew Near Km81,just2.5kmbeyondBounTai, Boun Tai toBounNeua bike, truckorsturdy4WD. en route so shouldonlybeattempted bytrails halfadozenfords Luang Namthabutcrosses ricornair.net) Airport’. leads 1kmwestto themisnamed‘Phongsali roads beyond,the asphalted lanetotheleft (Haoxayalath; 0648; d/tr50,000/60,000K) 300m north, hot showers andsit-downtoilets. Around has well-kept newroomswithcomfybeds, storey road. Facing thejunction,handythree- Rte 1Ato Ou Tai thePhongsali turnsnorthoff eateries, lies aroundthemainjunctionwhere a smalltouristoffice besidethebusstation. Mr Khampheng formation or‘call-n-trek’ bookingscontact doing thePhongsali‘JungleTrek’. Forin- ÷ $ plusafewThe busstation, shopsandbasic 088 /pop2500 - ÀÎ Sivienkham Guesthouse Sivienkham õ º Lao Capricorn Lao Capricorn fliestoVientiane (1,011,000K, 1½ acrossasuspensionfootbridge. % brick-making works brick-making ( Inthaseng Guesthouse 210 780;r50,000K) % Phaphounkao Ban Singsai 020-5578 7399) hasamore rusticsetting ( % 088-210 111;http://laocap ( Ban Pakha hasanattractive %

lonelyplanet.com Ban Yo . Atthecross- (Km 49)

. Located 500m whooperates 210 784; r 50,000K) 210 784;r50,000K) tobacco tower Houtsayalath

( , an Akha , anAkha % (Km109 , alocals- 030-510

NORTHERN LAOS

231 old town 7am- (two short overlooks a overlooks h Yunnanese style Yunnanese , a punishing, , a punishing, Museum of Tribes is more memo- is more Jungle Trek Phu Fa Wat Keo 020-5568 8396 or the mobile 020-5568 8396 (per hr 15,000K; (per hr 15,000K; -playing monks than its -playing monks than its Chinese Temple Chinese Temple % 8am-11.30am & 1.30-4.30pm Mon-Fri) 210 098; www.phongsaly.net; www.phongsaly.net; 210 098; h petang % in Phongsali province are among are province in Phongsali ( whose wooden frontages recall whose recall wooden frontages International calls possible. calls possible. International (fondue-style fish soup) lunch. Ten Ten (fondue-style fish soup) lunch. a ą 8am-11.30am & 1.30-4pm Mon-Fri)8am-11.30am & maps and Helpful For great views across town climb to the views across town For great with the internet, plus independent 10pm) One computer electricity to run it.

days starting from Boun Neua), visiting an as well as crossing a rare Akha village Phixo surviving Various primary forest. stand of include boat multi-day start and finish treks Sa and visiting rides up the Nam Ou from Hat phone number of duty staff posted on the front door. duty staff posted on the front phone number of a you might get where bamboo-walled eatery tôm p is ample to seeminutes the (admission 5000K; the province’s displaying local costumes of ask for If the door is locked, cultures. diverse from the post office across the road. the key Activities Hill-tribe treks Laos. have in all of Tours the most rewarding emphasis on ecological and cultural a heavy your fee sensitivity, of with a sizeable chunk going into development funds in the villages you stay. thought-out Carefully treks where through tourist the well-organised offered are for next- can be organised Most treks office. especially if you phone ahead. day departure, A popular option is the h from most and free also available online are brochures emergency help or want to book If you need guesthouses. call a tour out of hours, mostly lined with traditional shop-houses new old Kunming. Tiny, of the architecture and functional, the rable for its architecture. stupa-topped peak of 400 stone steps climb up over tree-shaded road that’s just pass- bumpy, steep or a very A 4000K toll gear. in first able by motorbike the ascent is payable on the last section of descent A new alternative from a picnic area. factory Sa road near a tea to the Hat returns a Jaidee, town, 500m short of 2km east of Lao Telecom Tourist Office Wang Electronics Shop Sights modest but distinctive The town’s rough, grid of includes a three-block area alleys and a winding street stone-flagged pond, behind which (200m beyond Km 8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) h ( PHONGSALI PROVINCE •• Phongsali Baka Luang

Ù

New bank under construction that will soon have 088 / pop 6000 / elevation 1400m

For Phongsali (20,000K, 1½ hours) use use PhongsaliFor hours) 1½ (20,000K, ¤¦¾ì

Ü History Can change nine currencies to KipCan change nine currencies and cashes US$ travellers cheques without commission. Western Union transfers no cash advance. possible but no ATM, Phongsali’s first ATM. Phongsali’s first ATM.

Lao Development Bank Information BCEL Panna. of his domains, today’s Phongsali, where they his domains, today’s Phongsali, where of maintained the borderlands against incur- Sipsong Lü kingdom of sions from the Tai and opportunity in equal measure, the Lanand opportunity in equal measure, in the far north them land Xang king granted originally a warlike tribe who had migrated tribe who had migrated originally a warlike from Burma to Luang Prabang. Seeing danger According to tradition the Phu Noi were Noi were According to tradition the Phu residents and more recent immigrants. recent and more residents Phu Noi and Haw/Yunnanese, both long-term both long-term Noi and Haw/Yunnanese, Phu ing climate that can swing from pleasantly that can swing ing climate hours. warm to downright of cold in a matter in case, even and waterproofs Bring a jacket population is a mix of The town’s in March. Mountain’, 1625m) rises steeply. The location the town panoramic views and a refresh- gives tal, Phongsali sits high on a small ridgetop Phongsali sits high ridgetop on a small tal, (‘Sky Fa Phu the peak of which above plateau % capi- any other Lao unlike provincial Quite PHONGSALI ² the next 15km. en Noi village Phu noticeably 17) is the first old women still wear distinctive where route Noi leggings.Phu Phongsali climbs onto a ridgetop road sur- a ridgetop climbs onto Phongsali mountain forests. protected of swaths veying at 500m past Km a signed viewpoint There’s panoramas continuing for 31 with ridgetop After Boun Neua (Km 41) the road to Neua (Km 41) the road to Boun After riving from Vientiane you’ll probably miss it. riving from Vientiane you’ll to PhongsaliBoun Neua 4½ hours) departs around 9.30am once the around 9.30am departs 4½ hours) ar- If you’re Phongsali arrives. early bus from around 1pm and betweenaround 1pm 6pm. The 4pm and (at least to Ou Tai bus from Boun Neua rickety the through buses from Mengla, Boun Tai, Tai, Boun the through buses from Mengla, Vientiane, typically departing Udomxai or hours) Wednesday and Saturday, though and Saturday, Wednesday can- hours) common. all too are cellations lonelyplanet.com NORTHERN LAOS Ou through theNPA.Ou through exciting river expeditions ontheupperNam ofits ownselection treks andmaysoonoffer Phou Fa hasair-con even androom-heaters. All of thefollowinghave water heaters andthe Sleeping 594; www.amazinglaos.com; ingredients forthelocalfamilydinner. perhaps, guidedforagingtripstocollect the to spendmore timewithvillage folkincluding, vehicles. Projected ‘experiencetours’ allow you publictransportorcharterwhether you’lluse costs, which are very variableaccordingto real village homes.Butyoumustaddtransport guide’s fee, foodandultra-basic in homestays or 300,000Kgoingitalone. Thisincludesthe rently 200,000/150,000Kinapair/larger group, don’t have tobacktrack. your backpacktothedestinationsothatyou p 230 ) canbeorganised toincludedelivery of Trekthree-day toBounTai NamLan (see ridgetophigh paths. One-waytreks like the Nuquivillagesunforgettable linked Akha by 232 Airport (42km);Udomxai(231km) Boun Neua(40km); Ban Komaen(14km); To MainBusStation(2km); 1 3 2 PHONGSALI Amazing Lao Travel AmazingLaoTravel Fixed pricesperperson perdayare cur- PHONGSALI PROVINCE ••Phongsali PHONGSALI PROVINCE a e...... C3 Wat Keo...... B3 D3 Museum ofTribes...... Chinese Temple...... B2 Amazing LaoTravel...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES B3 Wang ElectronicsShop...... B3 Tourist Office...... B3 Site forBCEL...... B3 C3 Lao Telecom...... Lao DevelopmentBank...... INFORMATION Military Area (no entry) Km1 post ὈὈ ὈὈ Sportsground AC Grassy Scrub 16 (Northern Travelling Center; (Northern 12 h 4 6 8am-5pm, often later) 8am-5pm, often 24 17 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 21 22 20 18 B EATING SLEEPING ajr etuat...... A2 C3 Laojerm Restaurant...... Bakery...... B3 B3 Viphaphone Hotel...... A3 Sengsaly Guesthouse...... B2 Pinekham DouangnalyGuesthouse.. Phu FaHotel...... C3 Shop-Houses...... Yunnanese 13 5 11 Office Post % has 8 210 Monument 2 Kaysone 14 3 house iscompactbutveryhouse clean,haswarm which isoften limited toafew hours aday. suchHowever, facilities require electricity, of 26one-storey courtyard roomsin whatwas floors lettheimage down alittle. It’s aseries Phongsali’s topchoice, theconcrete though covers give thePhou Fa amarginal edge as Western toilets,roomheaters andgolden bed- building works. but mostsuch ‘views’are nowobscured by robes andTV. Viewroomscostalittlemore rooms are decentandincludedesks,ward- A handilycentralthree-storey hotel whose sometimes withplumbingproblems. duvets andsmallprivate bathrooms,albeit 5005; r60,000-80,000K) showers. comfy ifoverly colourfulandcomewithhot roomsarebathrooms. Better newlybuiltand have these ing beddingbuteven basicprivate 40,000Kroomshave age- drag, theSengsaly’s The bestof three cheaper optionsonthemain Gate Gate Phou Fa Phou Hotel Hotel Viphaphone DouangnalyGuesthouse Pinekham Sengsaly Guesthouse Sengsaly Town Old 1 19 School 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 0 0 15 10 ( % TRANSPORT DRINKING †nt†wt anBsSain.. B3 D3 S†wngth†ew toMainBusStation..... Hat SaBusStation...... B3 Blackman...... B3 B2 Yeehua Guesthouse...... C3 Noodle Stands...... B2 Noodle Shop...... B2 Market...... Laoper Restaurant...... 9 Phongsali’s newestguest- Phongsali’s Pond 210 031;tw/d90,000/120,000; ( %

( % 210 111;r60,000-80,000K) 7 210 165;r40,000-60,000K) Phu FaStupa steps upto lonelyplanet.com D To HatSa(21km) ( Stupa (1km) To PhuFa % 0.3 miles 020-239 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 500 m a 23

) NORTHERN LAOS 233 , 10 min- is at Km 3, west is at Km 3, shuttle runs there from shuttle runs there Hat Sa bus station ew ǎ main bus station wngth ǎ s Á´$ - ð 088 / pop 500 088 / pop 500 088 / pop 400 088 / pop 400 $¡ - Ban Komaen makes a very pleasant part- a very Ban Komaen makes Phongsali’s Amazing Lao Travel rents so-so motorbikes so-so motorbikes LaoAmazing rents Travel ¾ É AROUND PHONGSALI Hat Sa ¹¾©¦¾ % climbing ‘port’ village Sa is a tiny river Hat the Nam Ou. It’s the steep wooded bank of on the promontory behind the school, where a where on the promontory behind the school, is planned eventually. A fair per- new ecolodge set on Noi homes are authentic Phu of centage stone-pile platforms. Arriving from Phongsali bushes, tea past plenty of (15km), you’ll drive but those beside the main road through the vil- old and 400 years over reputedly are centre lage said to be the world’s oldest. That doesn’tare still all, the leaf pickers – after huge mean they’re need to clamber through the branches. the Boun Take excursion. day motorbike the in- opposite Neua road, turn left directly spirationally named Km4 Nightclub (not the then curveasphalt road just before) steadily road, keeping around on the main unpaved any turn left at most junctions but avoiding that descends into the valley. (65,000K, nine to 15 hours) at 8am. As foreign- at 8am. As (65,000K, nine to 15 hours) can’t cross the Chineseers border at Ban Pakha, and the (7am and 1.30pm) the buses to Mengla weekly service Luang Namtha are (via Mengla) Boun Neua. only useful for reaching from 100,000K per day. . 230 For Boun Neua see p Ban Komaen ® % attractive is a very village Phongsali’s famous tea place commanding stupendous valley views. These when you stand sweep nearly 360 degrees Getting There Away & Boun Neua actually at airport is Phongsali’s to Vientiane (1,011,000K) ) but air tickets 230 (p Boats the Viphaphone Hotel. also sold at are Sa, at Hat Khuato/from Muang depart/arrive at 8am daily busesto which (10,000K) leave from the and 1.30pm town. walk east of utes’ town. A of (5000K) at 6.30am but only area the market plenty of that, so leave after infrequently very (at least 25 The daily bus to Vientiane time. and the bus to Udomxai at 7.30am leaves hours)

a ą 6- . Tôm Tôm pro- h Tôm p 3-10pm) khào sáwy khào ‘bakery’ e 8000K; h ǒ (f

(khào sáwy 5000K;

210 186; mains 10,000- 030-588 7448; mains 20,000- 030-578 8283; mains 15,000- Service from ranges % ( (beer 10,000K; % , which is at its most in- , which

noodle shop ( %

( (per half-litre 14,000K). Locally considered to cook to cook Locally considered noodle stands PHONGSALI PROVINCE •• Around Phongsali market hidden away in the northwest hidden away in the northwest Blackman lào-láo 11am-10.30pm) Beneath (but cheapest Phongsali’s 5-10pm) ) h h i

near the bank does near the bank the best noodle soup is available. 6.30am-5pm) a

Laoper Restaurant Laojerm Restaurant Yeehua Guesthouse Yeehua ą setting, try passed over raspberry leaves after fermenta- after raspberry leaves passed over tion. To sip a beer a central yet semi-rural in lent local been from having tint comes The pale green is famous for Chinese-style green tea. The The is famous for Chinese-style tea. green sellstourist office samples along with excel- Phongsali region, especially Ban Komaen especially Ban Komaen Phongsali region, dishes but not ideal for single diners. dishes but not ideal for single diners. Drinking Point to a selection see and what turns up. of It’s good for groups sharing a mixture a display box of the possible ingredients. the possible ingredients. of a display box 20,000K; ferings such as ‘High-handed Pig’s liver’ and as ‘High-handed such Pig’s liver’ ferings Cubelets’. the Meat Protects ‘Palace p in decent-sized portions and the menu’s ap- inscrutable English includes of-proximate 35,000K; good food comes to odd but reliably lacklustre and thick Lao(3000K). The menu is Coffee in English. functional restaurant servesfunctional restaurant trav- inexpensive wines, Chinese beer (7000K) French eller fare, 30,000K; guesthouse, the Yeehua’s not recommended) paste. paste. only doughnuts stuffed coconut or bean with notably served along the Hat at simple places 4). In an archetypal Sa road (Km 2 and Km Old Town shop-house, the tiny rant food is predominantly Chinese. rant food is predominantly is a local speciality, (fondue-style fish soup) teresting at dawn. None of the town’s eateries the town’s eateries at dawn. None of teresting at decoration and restau- any attempt make h in town though there’s also decent in town though there’s from available A basic, unmarked unmarked A basic, 11am) Eating be a challenge. There’s no reception per se– no reception There’s be a challenge. the room on the left beyond look in the small building. restaurant groups-only a Chinese consulate until 1975. Three staffa Chinese 1975. Three until consulate can them but finding speak English members stocks some mornings but often duces bread lonelyplanet.com corner of the corner of the best food in town, there’s no menu, just no menu, just the best food in town, there’s NORTHERN LAOS calculate topayasupple- whetheryou’ll need numbers totsuppassenger and anofficial to boatiseasyenough Findingtheright levels. clientele anddecent watersuming sufficient arrival of thefirst –as- busfromPhongsali (25,000K),around30 minutes afterWatai the boats leave (100,000K)and toMuang Khua directly above theriver landingfromwhere goodstohill-tribefolk. That’s Chinese sells which isliveliest fromdawnand mainly ket onthe15thand30thof each month, There’s ahandfulof andamar- noodlestalls 21km eastof road. Phongsali byunsealed 234 custom, while the brutal Akha attitudetotwinsisquite unpalatable.custom, whilethebrutalAkha breasts harmtotheirnewborn offspring. willattract Eatingstones whilepregnant isanodder they’reoffering simplyfollowingabeliefthatyoungmotherswhocover asexualcome-on, both dangling yourself on an Akha swing( dangling yourselfonanAkha spirit gate oranyothertabooitem. (Akha) Ask yourguidetoexplainanddon’teven thinkof and itwouldbeexceedinglybadformforavisitortotouchvillagetotem (Tai Lüvillages),a blance ofprivacy.Note thatfemale trekkers countas‘honorarymen’. Bringingor twotosnuggleupinalinethemalesection. asleepingbaggives agreater sem- out forthenighttosleepinotherhouses,leavingguide,trekkers andmaybeavillageelder status. spaceforvisitors,mostmen-folkmovepoignantly befittingheralmostslave-like Tomake another (whichitisabsolutely tabootovisit)andthedaughter-in-law box-space getsacurtained platform,mostofthewomenon homesallthemen-folksleepononeraised,curtained Akha begging, whichunderminessocietiesthathave alwaysbeenself-sufficient. so, onlygive directly tofriendsorthevillagechief. Givinggifts tochildren canencourage to give after you’ve left.Alwaysaskyourguidefirstifit’s appropriate togive anythingandif crusty oldsuperstitionthatphotographersare soul-stealers. to seethemselves oncamera. Never forcetheissue,however, asafew really mightbelieve the men, showthosecasuallytoyourhostladiesandeventually it’squite thattheywillwant likely homestay isthatyoubecome‘friends’withafamily.Trysnappingdigital photosofbabiesand straight refusal, whichshouldberespected. However, agreat advantageofstayinginavillage run squealingfromacamera. permissiontosnapapassingstrangeroften Asking results in please docarryoutyourusedtoiletpaper,tamponsetc,however unpleasantthatmightseem. deposits willbegobbledupgreedily bythelocalpigssoshouldn’tbewasted! Nonetheless, etiquettecustom: althoughtrekking usuallydictates buryingfaeces,insomevillagesyoursolid watercourses. Butinremote villageswithnotoiletsatall,checkyourguide astothelocal course youshouldstillrefrain frompointingyourfeet atanyone. andsomeothertribalpeoples,leavebut inmud-floored themon.Of dwellingsofHmong,Akha some ofthemostunexpected. targets theirvillagespopulartrekking indigo costumesmake whiletheiranimistbeliefs are also women’scoin-encrustedlocal culture. asAkha ontheAkha, The followingnotes focusparticularly When visitingtribalvillagesyou’llneedtolearnslightlydifferent etiquette accordingtoeach TREKKING SENSITIVE PHONGSALI PROVINCE ••AroundPhongsali PHONGSALI PROVINCE Breasts &Babies Spirits Beds Gifts Photos Toilets Shoes&Feet –Ifyouwanttogive gifts, considerfruitandvegetable seedsorsaplingsthatcontinue – In trekking villagesyou’llprobablysleepinthehouseofvillagechief. –Intrekking Intraditional –The spiritworld isevery bitas lively inhill-tribe cultures asitisinotherLaocultures –Ifthere’s avillagetoilet,useit.Whenintheforest besure todumpawayfrom –Whilemanyhill-tribeboysare delighted tobephotographed,mostvillagewomen –Entering anethnicLaohomeitwouldberudenottoremove yourshoes, – Akha womenwhodisplaytheirbare breasts –Akha are neitherbeingcareless nor hacheu ). sleeping bag.Wash in theriver.sleeping available but it’s preferable tobringyourown ing. Mosquitonets andthinfloormatsare asyouclimbfromtheboatland- to theright Shop walled crash-padroomsabove inoneofsleep three unfurnishedbamboo- rive youcan late byboatfromMuangKhua), in Hat ifyouar- Sa(quite possibleforanight be higher. andpriceswillcan droptoacoupleweek ment. Whenwater are levels lowdepartures There’s butifyou’re noguesthouse stuck

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Ban 235 is the originat- Ngay Ngeu Wat Luang, 0879-687 4969; r 50,000K) ) ø %

( º - is marred at first glance by its glance at first is marred (confusingly marked as ‘Yofam’ as ‘Yofam’ (confusingly marked ¨º© - . º¤ õ , a tiny settlement of Akha Phixo Akha, a tiny settlement Phixo of À´ - (Km 93)

Ban Tha ( É 088 / pop 2500 088 / pop 2500 Tam Fan Binguan Fan Tam At Km 65 the road climbs throughAt Km 65 the road ê - ø sual four-way colonnaded approaches remain remain colonnaded approaches sual four-way sits in original. The central Buddha figure in the middle. gilded box-throne an ornately best guesthouse in town with slight elements of a little style to the new beds, though rooms are dusty and the curtains starting to sag. Private Ou Tai (Muang Nyot Ou) Ou Tai º % the Nyot Ou (Gnot Ou) dis- town of The main a rather brash, functional features Ou Tai trict, but its lower town has a good main street wooden and tile-roofed thatch- of scattering homes. The town’s best-known attraction is the open-sided temple one of ing from 1445 and long considered Sadly a 2009 its style. of the finest temples has seriously compromised reconstruction old terracotta its appeal. The weather-beaten the original of tiles and ceiling timbers roof in maudlin stacks around remain structure the unu- building, but fortunately the rebuilt wild Nam Ou rapids from here to Hat Sa. Sa. to Hat here wild Nam Ou rapids from yet to startThese officially but would have at least one night camping, another involve in a homestay. beads and silver trusions draped in strings of views coins. The climb continues with great at Km 71 to Km 72 and again at around Km the road crosses with classic a pass 77 where clouds’ views at sunrise. Then there’s ‘sea of valley of descent into the rice-bowl a steady Ou Tai kilometres. The large village of of village The large kilometres. Km 34) (Ngay Neua; Lü Tai roof shaggy-thatch and corrugated away houses tucked a quaint little temple with and The main road curls around at the back. older- of patch then heads into another above, that’s only been partially burnt. growth forest across the Nam Ou leads At Km 63, a bridge into is market regular the on some maps), where month. each 15th of particularly busy on the Phongsali Tourist Office three- has mooted trips to descend the day boating or kayaking Pankhai the women wear archetypal people where indigo pro- with rectangular head-dresses modern school complex. However, the main modern school footbridges, by flimsy the river town, across traditional mix of tight-packed is an elegant at will ew ǎ Huoi Jing wngth ǎ s PHONGSALI PROVINCE •• North of Boun Neua

If you can find one, renting a van for a day If you can find one, renting

Buses to Phongsali (10,000K) depart at Buses to Phongsali at depart (10,000K) forms a spectacular skyline drive for severalforms a spectacular skyline drive the entrance to town and there’s a classic a classic the entrance to town and there’s the road Akha swing at the top. Thereafter Km 24, where a buffalo-horn marks totem Km 24, where This fascinating route passesThis fascinating route briefly through slopes around Km 21 forested attractive very the Akha of village then reaches mud or dust according to the season. Boun Neua to Ou Tai trip from Boun Neua would be an ideal way to for serious come prepared visit. By motorbike, foreigners. Communication can be challeng- Communication foreigners. widely than more ing, with Chinese spoken Lao in some places. is unlikely to change rapidly even if the Laos–change to is unlikely China border at Nan Tuey finally opens to tually no tourists venture up the dusty but tually no tourists venture This Boun Neua. passablequite of road north Despite some memorable scenery and many some Despite vir- inspiring yet accessible roadside villages, NORTH OF BOUN NEUA any access to the NPA anyway. Sneaking past any access to the NPA unwise as you risk being shot as a that is very poacher. suspected landscapes. Then, after slogginglandscapes. Then, after for 70km, that prevents an army checkpoint you reach rough unpaved road leading there, it passes leading there, road rough unpaved through slash-and-burn rather monotonous to drive into the park from Hat Sa. While While Sa. into the park from Hat to drive and bridge suspension is a French-built there tourists have made ill-considered attempts attempts made ill-considered tourists have Sa, for which you’ll need to do a lot of or- you’ll need to do a lot of Sa, for which ganisation. You’ll also need to carry your own a lengthy sec- there’s camping necessities, as Some tion without any habitation whatever.

pristine forest is layered across inaccessible across is layered pristine forest mountains at almost 2000m near that climax the only At present the Vietnamese border. its grandeur is a glimpselegal way to get of boating or kayaking trips down on irregular between Banthe Nam Ou river Tha and Hat Phu NPA Den Din relatively partly unexplored, of This vast area 100,000K minimum. per person assuming the driver can make can make assuming the driver per person ing up to 1½ hours westbound due to the to the westbound due hours ing up to 1½ An additional steep climb. around 9am and 2pm from the market, tak- market, 2pm from the 9am and around boat the to Phongsali after depart generally 20,000K Muang Khua, from arrives charging lonelyplanet.com NORTHERN LAOS © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Pty Publications Planet Lonely © from 3000K) road iscomparatively fast,iflessscenicand Following thevalleyof theNamOu,main of OuTai North arrived fromBounNeua. run fromOuTai toOuNeuaoncethebushas there’s custom,a sufficient By van,three hours isamplewithoutstops.If take 4½hours ittake double that. butwe’ve seen meals visitoneof the but priceyrestaurant, butformuch cheaper of theBureau desTravaux. There’s asimple where themainroadswingsaroundinfront It’s onthemainstreet atthetopof therise canmanage awordortwoofstaff English. and squattoiletsbutit’stheoneplacewhere letaloneEnglish. speakminimalLao, and staff the mainstreet. ThesignisonlyinChinese where thespurroadtowatdiverges from the motorbike showroom,justatthe point toilets butsolar-heated showers. It’sopposite bathrooms are mustyandhave slightly squat 236 stark unshaded light bulbs,coldshowers unshadedlight stark tr 45,000/50,000/50,000K) © d p i s t a i u

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