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Lao

$9.99 £4.99

UK USA lonelyplanet.com HEALTH •

GETTING AROUND GETTING FOOD •

August 1995 August March 2014 2014 March SHOPPING Plus •

4TH EDITION Published Published First MEETING PEOPLE MEETING Avoid embarrassingAvoid situations with essential tips on culture & manners Order the right meal with our decoder menu Never get stuck for wordswith our quick reference dictionary •

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nd phrases for every travel situation

fi d d n i . r e v o c - 4 ACCOMMODATION - k o o Get More From Your Trip Your From More Get b PRONUNCIATION e s YEARS YEARS a r h with easy-to- with p - o a llao-phrasebook-4-cover.indd 1 120+ LANGUAGES LANGUAGES 120+ and phrasebooks Our more cover mobile apps publisher other than any 25+ Phrasebooks Planet Lonely been connecting have over for and locals travellers a century of a quarter Lao PHRASEBOOK & DICTIONARY

00aa-title-imprint-pb-lao4.indd-title-imprint-pb-lao4.indd 1 11/11/2013/11/2013 4:35:514:35:51 PM Acknowledgments Associate Publisher Mina Patria Associate Product Director Angela Tinson Product Editor Elizabeth Jones Series Designer James Hardy Language Writer Joe Cummings Cover Image Researcher Naomi Parker

Thanks Bruce Evans, Larissa Frost, Carol Jackson, Chris Love, Wayne Murphy, Branislava Vladisavljevic

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd PublishedABN 36 005 by 607 Lonely 983 Planet Publications Pty Ltd 4thABN Edition 36 005 – 607March 983 2014 8thISBN Edition 978 1 –74179 March 336 2012 9 ISBNText © 978 Lonely 1 74220 Planet 811 2014 4 TextCover © ImageLonely MonksPlanet 2012at the Giant Buddha of Wat Xieng Khuan, CoverVientiane, Image , xxx Angelo – xxx Cavalli / Tips Images / Tips Italia Srl a socio Printedunico / Alamyin China © 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Printed in China 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Contact lonelyplanet.com/contact

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be repro duced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without the written permis sion of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trade marks of Lone ly Planet and are registered in the U.S. Patent and Trademark Offi ce and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: www.lonelyplanet.com/ip

Although the authors and Lonely Planet try to make the in for ma tion as accurate as possible, we accept no responsibility for any loss, inju ry or inconvenience sus tained by anyone us ing this book.

Paper in this book is certifi ed against the Forest Stewardship Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially benefi cial and economically viable management of the world’s forests.

00aa-title-imprint-pb-lao4.indd-title-imprint-pb-lao4.indd 2 11/11/2013/11/2013 4:36:084:36:08 PM acknowledgments

about the author After investing most of his youth strangling Stratocasters in dark bars, Joe Cummings ran away from home with the Peace Corps and discovered South-East Asia. Returning to his native USA, he earned meagre but steady cash as a professional student for several years, gaining two master’s degrees, one in South-East Asian Studies/Thai Language and another in Applied Linguistics. He has also worked as a translator/interpreter of Thai, a Lao bilingual consultant in the USA and as a tour guide in Laos. Along the way, Joe hit the road for LP, writing the first editions of LP’s and Laos guides, which he continues to update regularly. He has also authored LP’s Thai phrase- book, World Food: Thailand and Buddhist Stupas of Asia: The Shape of Perfection. Joe visits Laos frequently from his home base in Thailand.

from the author I’m much indebted to a Lao friend who helped with the Lao script for this phrasebook, but who wished not to be mentioned by name. Thanks also to Steven Schipani, who facilitated many ex- changes. For logistical support, I thank Oliver Bandmann of Baan Khily Gallery in .

from the publisher This expedition was mounted by Sally Steward, Peter D’Onghia and Ingrid Seebus in its early days, then commandeered by Jim Jenkin. Karina Coates and Karin Vidstrup Monk planned the imminent stages acknowledgments of departure and made short work of the dense jungle, thus guid- ing the team to new territory. Dogsbody Ben Handicott edited the scribe’s account. Yukiyoshi Kamimura was expedition artist from cover to cover, and also charted the layout of the whole affair. Bruce Evans lent a learned eye to the itinerary, Sophie Putman was the invaluable trip jack-of-all-trades (master of many), Natasha Velleley plotted the map, Bibiana Jaramillo made sure it was all recorded in the correct typeface and Fabrice Rocher, another crazy Frenchman, provided his sparkling eyes and guaranteed a stylish, timely arrival at destination. Special thanks to Manivone Watson for the creation of the Sustainable Travel section.

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00aa-title-imprint-pb-lao4.indd-title-imprint-pb-lao4.indd 3 11/11/2013/11/2013 4:36:084:36:08 PM make the most of this phrasebook …

Anyone can speak another language! It’s all about confidence. Don’t worry if you can’t remember your school language lessons or if you’ve never learnt a language before. Even if you learn the very basics (on the inside covers of this book), your travel experience will be the better for it. You have nothing to lose and everything to gain when the locals hear you making an effort.

fi nding things in this book For easy navigation, this book is in sections. The Pronunciation and Grammar chapters are the ones you’ll thumb through time and again. The Getting Around and Accommodation chapters cover basic travel situations like catching transport and finding a bed. The Meeting People chapter gives you conversational phrases and the ability to express opinions – so you can get to know people. Food has a section all of its own: gourmets and vegetarians are covered and local dishes feature. The Health and Emergencies chapters equip you with health and police phrases, just in case. Use the com- prehensive Index to find everything easily. Otherwise, check the traveller’s Dictionary for the word you need.

being understood Throughout this book you’ll see coloured phrases on each page. They’re phonetic guides to help you pronounce the language. Start with them to get a feel for how the language sounds. The Pronun- ciation chapter will explain more, but you can be confident that if you read the coloured phrase, you’ll be understood.

communication tips Body language, ways of doing things, sense of humour – all have a role to play in every culture. The aside boxes included throughout this phrasebook give you useful cultural and linguistic information that will help you communicate with the locals and enrich your travel experience. MAKE THE MOST OF THIS PHRASEBOOK THE MOST OF THIS PHRASEBOOK MAKE

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00aa-title-imprint-pb-lao4.indd-title-imprint-pb-lao4.indd 4 11/11/2013/11/2013 4:36:084:36:08 PM CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION ...... 11 Abbreviations ...... 12 PRONUNCIATION ...... 13 Vowels ...... 14 Tones ...... 17 Consonants ...... 15 Script ...... 19 Variations in Transliterations ...... 16 GRAMMAR ...... 23 Word Order ...... 23 To Have ...... 35 Nouns ...... 23 Negatives ...... 36 Adjectives ...... 24 Modals ...... 37 Adverbs ...... 25 Questions ...... 39 Pronouns ...... 26 Answers ...... 42 Possession ...... 30 Classifiers ...... 43 Verbs ...... 31 Prepositions ...... 44 To Be ...... 34 Conjunctions ...... 44 MEETING PEOPLE ...... 45 You Should Know ...... 45 Nationalities ...... 50 Greetings ...... 46 Age ...... 51 Goodbyes ...... 46 Occupations ...... 51 Forms of Address ...... 46 Family ...... 52 Body Language...... 47 Feelings ...... 55 First Encounters...... 48 Opinions ...... 55 Making Conversation ...... 48 Common Interests ...... 56 Breaking the Sport ...... 57 Language Barrier ...... 49 GETTING AROUND ...... 59 Finding Your Way ...... 59 Taxi ...... 64 Directions ...... 60 Samlors & Jumbos ...... 64 Buying Tickets ...... 61 Boat ...... 66 Air ...... 62 Renting Vehicles ...... 69 Bus ...... 63 Car Problems ...... 71

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ACCOMMODATION ...... 73 Finding Accommodation ..... 73 Checking Out ...... 76 Checking In ...... 74 Laundry ...... 77 Requests & Complaints ...... 76 AROUND TOWN ...... 79 Looking For ...... 79 Fax & Telegraph ...... 85 At the Bank ...... 80 Internet ...... 85 At the Post Office ...... 82 Paperwork ...... 86 Telephone ...... 84 Sightseeing ...... 87 SHOPPING ...... 91 Bargaining ...... 91 Colours ...... 98 Making a Purchase ...... 92 Toiletries...... 98 Souvenirs & Crafts ...... 94 Stationery & Publications ..... 99 Materials ...... 94 Photography ...... 99 Textiles ...... 96 Smoking ...... 100 Gems & Jewellery ...... 96 Weights & Measures ...... 101 Clothing ...... 97 Sizes & Comparisons ...... 101 Fabrics ...... 97 FOOD ...... 103 At the Restaurant ...... 104 Stir-Fried Dishes ...... 110 Vegetarian Meals ...... 105 Fish ...... 110 Staples ...... 106 Vegetables ...... 111 Rice Dishes ...... 106 Condiments, Noodles ...... 107 Herbs & Spices ...... 112 Bread & Pastries...... 108 Cooking Methods ...... 113 Eggs...... 108 Fruit ...... 113 Appetisers Sweets ...... 116 (’Drinking Food’) ...... 108 Drinks – Non-Alcoholic ..... 117 Meat Salads ...... 109 Drinks – Alcoholic ...... 120 Soup ...... 109 IN THE COUNTRY ...... 121 Weather ...... 121 Geography ...... 127 Trekking ...... 121 Geographic Features ...... 130 Camping ...... 125 Animals ...... 130 Cycling ...... 126 Plants ...... 132

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HEALTH ...... 133 Women’s Health ...... 133 At the Chemist ...... 137 Ailments ...... 134 At the Dentist ...... 140 Parts of the Body ...... 136 SPECIFIC NEEDS...... 141 Disabled Travellers ...... 141 On Tour ...... 145 Travelling with the Family ..142 Film & TV Crews ...... 146 Looking for a Job ...... 143 Pilgrimage & Religion ...... 147 On Business ...... 144 Tracing Roots & History ..... 150 TIME, DATES & FESTIVALS ...... 151 Time ...... 151 Present ...... 154 Days of the Week ...... 152 Past ...... 154 Months ...... 152 Future ...... 154 Seasons ...... 153 Festivals & Dates ...... 153 National Holidays ...... 155 NUMBERS & AMOUNTS ...... 161 Cardinal Numbers ...... 161 Fractions ...... 163 Ordinal Numbers ...... 163 EMERGENCIES ...... 165 Police ...... 166 ENGLISH–LAO DICTIONARY ...... 169

INDEX ...... 217

SUSTAINABLE TRAVEL ...... 221

00bb-contents-pb-lao4.indd-contents-pb-lao4.indd 7 331/10/20131/10/2013 1:47:551:47:55 PM 8 Map South China Tonkin Gulf of Vietnam LAOS

BOLIKHAMSAI ng ko Me Paksan HUA PHAN HUA Sam Neua XIENG KHUANG Ngum SAISOMBUN SPECIAL ZONE Ang Nam LUANG PRABANG VIENTIANE Luang Prabang Udomxai (Muang Xai) PHONGSALI VIENTIANE Phon Hong Phon UDOMXAI Sainyabuli Luang Nam Tha Nam Tha

r China e SAINYABULI v LUANG i NAM THA g R kon Huay Xai Me BOKEO (Burma) Myanmar lao

00cc-map-pb-lao4.indd-map-pb-lao4.indd 8 66/11/2013/11/2013 5:17:465:17:46 PM Map 9 Sea Attapeu Sekong (Lamam) SEKONG ATTAPEU

SALAVAN er Riv

Pakse M Salavan ekong CHAMPASAK SAVANNAKHET Tha Khaek Tha KHAMMUAN Savannakhet Southern Lao tribal languages, Mixed and highly Vietnamese localised, unclassified Lao r e iv R

g Cambodia . introduction Thailand 100 km 60 mi 50 30 Northern Lao (Vientiane)Central Lao details, see the For more 0 0

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INTRODUCTION 11 11 INTRODUCTION Modern Lao linguists recognise four basic dialects within the four basic dialects within the Modern Lao linguists recognise Northern Lao (spoken in Sainyabuli, country: Vientiane Lao; Luang Nam Tha and Luang Pra- Bokeo, Udomxai, Phongsali, (Xieng Khuang, Hua Phan), Central Laobang); North-Eastern Lao and Southern Lao (Champasak, Sala- (Khammuan, Bolikhamsai); Sekong). Each of these can be furthervan, Savannakhet, Attapeu, a distinction between the Lao spoken divided into subdialects; of Xieng Khuang and Hua Phan, in the neighbouring provinces to those who know Lao well. for example, is readily apparent members of the Thai half of the Thai- All dialects of Lao are to languages Kadai family of languages and are closely related of China’s spoken in Thailand, northern Myanmar and pockets to Stand- Yunnan Province. Standard Lao is indeed close enough native speakers, ard Thai (as spoken in central Thailand) that, for all speakers the two are mutually intelligible. In fact, virtually understand of Lao living in the River Valley can easily they listen spoken Thai, since the bulk of the television and radio Lao, written to is broadcast from Thailand. Among educated that the two Thai is also easily understood, in spite of the fact Greek and Ro- scripts differ (to about the same degree that the textbooks used man scripts differ). This is because many of the Thai texts. at the college and university level in Laos are actually The official Democratic Republic language of the Lao People’s in Vientiane. As an official as spoken and written (LPDR) is Lao the lingua franca between has successfully become language, it in Laos. Of course, native non-Lao ethnic groups all Lao and and with slightly dif- with differing tonal accents Lao is spoken one part of the country as you move from fering vocabularies the direction. But it is especially in a north to south to the next, most widely understood. Vientiane dialect that is 11 11 1 1

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INTRODUCTION AbbreviationsUsedinthisBook 12 ojcnucin g singular preposition prep sg plural n noun pl lit literal verb v conj conjunction translation adv adverb adj adjective ABBREVIATIONS USEDINTHISBOOK Lao sincethey’vehadlessexposure. in the learned in pecially thenorth-east),youshouldbeabletoputwhatever Hence ifyou’retravellingtoLaosafteraspellinThailand(es- fact therearemoreLaospeakerslivinginThailandthanLaos. Isan) isvirtually100%Laoinvocabularyandintonation; North-Eastern Thaidialects.(alsocalled Even closertoStandardLaoareThailand’sNorthernand opposite direction;nativeThaiscan’talwaysunderstand PMS 180UPG12 BLACK PG12 Thailand togooduseinLaos.Itdoesn’tworkaswell 331/10/2013 1:46:19PM 1 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 3

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