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The Floating Garden Madeira - The Floating Garden Naturetrek Tour Report 5 -12 June 2018 Sao Lorenco Mountain Wallflower Sinapadendron rupestr Pico Arieiro Report and images by Martin Beaton Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report Madeira - The Floating Garden Tour participants: Martin Beaton and Lara Broom (leaders) with 15 Naturetrek clients. Summary The tour report includes an overview of the habitats, species and locations that we saw including a list of the most commonly observed garden plants together with list of the birds and insects found. Day 1 Tuesday 5th June We left a rather chilly Gatwick at 7.40am, arriving in a warmer Madeira at 11.40am. After a short drive to our hotel Residencial Pina we settled into our rooms and, following lunch, walked into the centre of Funchal to orientate ourselves and look at the variety of street trees from around the world. The centre of Funchal is readily accessible from Residential Pina. It is an enjoyable place to explore and appreciate the different planted street trees which include in particular: Jacaranda (Jacaranda mimosifolia from Argentina), Pride of Bolivia (Tipuana tipu from Bolivia), Yellow Trumpet Tree (Markhamia platycalyx from Uganda), African Tuliptree (Spathodea campanulata from Gabon), Flame Tree (Brachychiton acerifolius from Australia), Brazilian Kapok (Ceiba speciose from Brazil) Native Frangipani or Wing-seed Tree (Hymenosporum flavum from Australia), Kauri of the East Indies (Agathis macrophylla from Australia), Dwarf Umbrella Tree (Schefflera actinophylla from Australia) and the Peruvian Pepper Tree (Schinus molle from South America). Many other species are planted along roadsides throughout the town, of which the more conspicuous include the Norfolk Island Pine (Araucaria heterophylla), Bunya Pine (Araucaria bidwillii) Coral Tree (Erythrina crista-galli), and the Swan’s-neck Agave (Agave attenuata). We also visited the Municipal Garden, an elderly, elegant and remarkable little garden, designed by Édouard André and built in 1880. The original bandstand and rails were removed around 1935 and the garden has subsequently developed a more intimate link with the small square that it sits within. In the garden we saw our first Monarch Butterfly and during our walk identified numbers of Canary, although there were few birds to be seen this afternoon. In the evening we ate at ‘Restaurante Dos Combatentes’ on the edge of the Municipal Garden where several people enjoyed the local Scabbard Fish. Day 2 Wednesday 6th June Our focus today was to explore the Laurel Forests around Ribeiro Frio and to familiarise ourselves with the principal forest trees and plants of this internationally important habitat. En route we took the opportunity to make a brief detour and stop at Pico Arieiro the second highest peak at 1816m to observe some of the mountain endemics. Near the summit of Pico Arieiro we found Madeiran Mountain Stock (Erysimum bicolor), Madeira Heather (Erica maderensis), Alpine Cress (Arabis caucasica), the © Naturetrek October 18 1 Madeira - The Floating Garden Tour Report Madeiran Hawkweeds (Tolpis macrorhiza and Tolpis succulenta), Narrow-leaved Mustard (Sinapidendron angustifolium), Madeiran Thrift (Armeria maderensis), Madeiran Eyebright (Odontites holliana), Madeira Plantain (Plantago leiopetala), Madeiran Saxifrage (Saxifraga maderensis var. pickeringii) and the rarer Madeiran Rock Orchid (Orchis mascula subsp. scopulorum). Here we also saw for the first time, the Berthelot’s Pipit, an endemic species, and enjoyed great views of Plain Swifts flying around us. Returning to our original route, along the roadsides down to Ribeiro Frio we saw examples of the Madeiran national flower, The Pride of Madeira (Echium candicans). At Ribeiro Frio we stopped initially to look at the small garden and the trout farm. This is an important site because it was planted in 1960 by the Regional Forestry Service when the construction of new roads in the 1950’s threatened pristine forest habitats and it provides an opportunity to look at a number of typical plants of the Laurel forest including: Argyranthemum or Marguerite (Argyranthemum pinnatifolium), the large Madeiran Shrubby Sow-thistle (Sonchus fruticosus) Wollaston’s Musschia (Musschia wollastonii) Madeira Foxglove (Isoplexis sceptrum) and the Honey Spurge (Euphorbia mellifera). In addition to numerous flowers of the Madeira Orchid (Dactylorhiza foliosa) we found Madeiran Goodyera (Goodyera macrophylla). After an enjoyable walk around the garden we began our walk along Levada Balcoes. The levadas provide both a level walk and an excellent route from which to observe the Laurel Forest. The principal tree species were the Azores Laurel (Laurus azorica) occasionally with the conspicuous parasitic Madeiran Laurel Fungus (Laurobasidium laurii), Fetid Laurel (Ocotea foetens) and occasionally Lily of the Valley tree (Clethra arborea). The smaller tree and shrub species included Besom Heath (Erica scoparia) and Maderian Bilberry (Vaccinuim padifolium). Along the edges of the levada we found Anemone-leaved Crane’s-bill (Geranium palmatum), the Madeiran Stonecrops (Aichryson divaricatum and Aichryson villosum), Madeiran Moneywort (Sibthorpia peregrina) Yellow-flowered Strawberry (Dunchesnea indica) along with Black Parsley Melanoselinum decipens). The most conspicuous fern species included Bracken (Pteridium aquilinum), the large Chain Fern, (Woodwardia radicans), Polypody (Polypodium macaronesicum), Irish Spleenwort (Asplenium onopteris), the Scaly Male-fern (Dryoptersis affinis), Lady-fern (Athyrium filix-femina), Soft Shield-fern (Polystichum setiferum) and the endemic Stenogramma pozoi. This Levada walk ends at Miradouro Balcoes which unfortunately was rather misty. However, a Bystropogon (Bystropogon maderensis) and a St. John’s-wort (Hypericum canariensis) were seen on the rock face adjacent to the view point. Madeiran Chaffinches (Fringilla coelebs maderensis) perched close by in search of food, and some of us also had very good views of the endemic Madeiran Firecrest. We ate our lunch in the sunny glade of Ribeiro Frio’s picnic site and after lunch walked along the Levada Portela, continuing our exploration of the Laurel Forests. In addition to the Laurel species already encountered, we found Ruscus streptophyllus (a Butchers-broom), Hare’s-foot Fern (Davallia canariensis), and the minute Tunbridge Filmy Fern (Hymenophyllum tunbrigense). Returning to our buses we found an Island Darter dragonfly (an endemic species) in a small garden adjacent to the road. Throughout the day, we also enjoyed views of Clouded Yellow, Macaronesian Red Admiral and Madeiran Brimstone. This evening we ate at O Jango in the old and attractive Rua Santa Maria. 2 © Naturetrek October 18 Madeira - The Floating Garden Tour Report Day 3 Thursday 7th June Our focus today was to see Madeira’s mountain habitat on Pico Ruivo; at 1,862 metres, it is Madeira’s highest peak. The mountains of Madeira are not high when compared to other mountain peaks, but they do rise spectacularly directly from sea level. On the final part of the road to the car park we passed through remnant Laurel forest, above which occurred Tree Heather (Erica arborea) which gave way to a more open grassland with scattered bushes of heather and the introduced Broom (Cytisus scoparius). Our walk into this open mountain vegetation began from the car park, 270 metres below the summit and approximately 2 kilometres from the peak. We found a Bird’s-foot Trefoil (Lotus parviflorus), a tiny specimen of Common Bird’s-foot (Ornithopus perpusillus, not O. ornithopodioides as stated), Wild Basil (Clinopodium vulgare), Madeiran Goodyera (Goodyera macrophylla) and an endemic Andryala (Andryala glandulosa subsp. cheiranthifolia, formerly known as subsp. varia). During the walk, we had good views of Berthelot’s Pipit, and some of us also saw (and heard) a lonely Spectacled Warbler. Clouded Yellow butterflies were ubiquitous, and we also saw the Madeiran Small Copper. With the ‘Refugio’ in sight we also discovered Willow-leaved Carline Thistle (Carlina salicifolia) and saw our first patch of Mountain Thyme (Thymus caespititus) and Caucasian Rock-cress (Arabis caucasica). The hut provided a welcome rest and a place to eat our packed lunch, before a number of us completed the final climb to the peak, where we saw Madeiran Yellow Violet (Viola paradoxa), growing on a ledge alongside Mealy Stonecrop (Sedum farinosum). Returning to our bus we made our return trip via Porto da Cruz and saw one of the few remaining sugar-cane production mills and distilleries on the island. The Companhia dos Engenhos do Norte produces a small amount of aguardente, a rum-like spirit used in the traditional Poncha liqueur. This visit was followed by a short walk around the coastal headland where we had a close view of Common Tern. We tried to identify the unconformity between the basement rocks and the subsequent overlying Pliocene lavas in the adjacent rock face of Penha de Águia, but were unable to do so. However we did look closely at the sedimentary deposit that makes up much of this headland. In this coastal area we found Madeiran Birds-foot Trefoil (Lotus glaucus), Rock Samphire (Crithmum maritimum), Buck’s-horn Plantain (Plantago coronopus) and Madeira Sea-stock (Matthiola maderensis). We had a relaxing coffee stop before heading back to the hotel, at a nearby esplanade, where some of us tried the local drink ‘Poncha’ – but without any alcohol! This evening we ate at Espaco Funchal on the Rua da Carreira. Day 4 Friday 8th June Today we drove east to Ponta de Sao Lourenco. The landscape of Sao Lourenco is low undulating terrain, dry and exposed, more like the outlying Desertas Islands than of other parts of Madeira. The original coastal vegetation, probably a low bushland has become degraded to a heath like grassland through human occupation but contains a range of plants not easily seen elsewhere on Madeira. © Naturetrek October 18 3 Madeira - The Floating Garden Tour Report From the car park we followed the track out along the peninsula with a few people choosing to walk the whole length of the peninsula.
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