May 2013 So readers, this is it: twelve months and ten issues later, we’ve come to the last Connect of this JET year. It’s been a wild ride, serving as your Editor, and I’d have to say that what I’ve enjoyed most has been the opportunity to Connect with tons of likeminded writers from all over Japan. For most of our time here, we JETs are so busy watering the grassroots in our own local communities that it can be easy to forget that we’re all part of something bigger. The group fervor that pulsed at our own Tokyo Orientation can seem faraway and forgotten (especially for us Inaka Kids), making it easy to feel anchorless. It’s projects like Connect that help renew that sense of belonging, reminding us that the community’s out there: it’s up to us to immerse ourselves in it.

Taking the plunge this month, we’ve got a whole host of stories to share from right across the JET community. Heenali Patel explores Japanese perceptions of nudity in Culture, Nick Pelonia interviews ALT Dori White about her bourgeoning sumo career in Events, and Connect’s own Chris Barstow explores some hilarious Engrish signage in Entertainment. That’s not to mention the return of “Like a Boson”, as well as other great features in Fashion, Food, Sports, Travel and Volunteering!

All that remains is to send out my fi nal round of thanks to the magnifi cent Melania and my wondrous Connect team, 2 as well as all of you for continuing to tune in to Connect each month! Although the time has come for me to bow out, Connect isn’t over: starting in July, former Events Editor Steven Thompson is going to be introducing you to a whole new editorial team and a brand new Connect! You can keep up to date with all the latest developments on your AJET Block’s Group on Facebook and on Twitter (@NationalAJET), and if you’re ever interested in getting involved, Steven himself is only an email away at [email protected].

It’s been a pleasure!

Jim

[email protected] Editor’s Welcome 2 Events: Yamashi’s Legendary General 15 As leader of Yamanashi English Teacher’s International (YETI), Message from the Chair of AJET 5 Brittany Shropshire knows her prefecture and its people better than most. After recently attending the annual Shingenko festival, Hello from Your Section Editors 6 she realized how much of an impact such an important historical fi gure has on the modern day. Like a Boson: Will We Ever Cure HIV? 8 Following the recent news that a child born with HIV had Events: Perseverance is Strength 16 Contributors been effectively cured, people began seriously considering the Hokkaido ALT Nick Pelonia lives in a small town that holds a  James Kemp likelihood of a forthcoming global cure. Our stalwart science singularly unique event in Japan: women’s sumo. Nick talks to  Melania Jusuf Dori White, fellow ALT and soon-to-be sumo champion.  Sarah Jane Blenkhorn companion Amanda Horton talks about the only two cases of  Chris Barstow HIV to be cured, and what these cases mean for the future of the Events: Running Through the Concrete Jungle  Steven Thompson global pandemic. 18  Annabella Massey Our favorite travel guru Amelia made her way to Tokyo recently  Xan Wetherall Travel: 29 Things I’ve Learned While Travelling on JET 10 to participate in the Yamathon. A charity event that sees teams  Ariane Bobiash Veteran Travel section editor Amelia Hagen refl ects on her fi ve of four exploring their way through the streets of Tokyo as they  Ruth Rowntree touch base at every station on the famous Yamanote line.  Amelia Hagen years of JET globetrotting; offering warnings, recommendations,  Neetha Mony and words of wisdom in one compact list. Volunteering: Bonding Beyond Borders for Bali 3  Jordan Ozaki 19  Heenali Patel Travel: Journey to Fukushima 11 We fi rst heard about the Oita AJET Charity Bike Ride back in  Nick Pelonia When Fukushima CIR Lachie Tranter fi rst came to the prefecture, the December issue of Connect. This month, we hear back  Brittany Shropshire he was immediately taken in by the beauty and history of it. Since from Rhianna Aaron about the results of all that philanthropic  Kathryn Strong  Siobhan Sullivan then he’s been traveling to every corner eating famous food and pedaling!  Miriam Bouteba trying his hand at making bad pottery. Read about how much Volunteering: Sharing Smiles  Amanda Horton awesome he packed into a two-day trip recently. 21  Peter Ninnes Smile Kids Japan is a countrywide organization that brings  Jessica Perl Travel: Seductive Sri Lanka 12 support, interulcutral exchange, and (of course) smiles to local  Matthew Dursum For budget travelers, nothing beats a destination rich in culture orphanages once a month. If you’re looking to volunteer in your  Hannah Auld  Lachie Tranter and history with cheap food and accommodation. ALT Hannah prefecture, section editor Neetha Mony would like to tell you how.  Rhianna Aaron Auld introduces us to Sri Lanka, a friendly, open country which is Sports: Surf’s Up, Sun’s Out 22 quickly emerging as a top tourist destination. Self-confessed surf addict Matthew Dursum gives us a Editor comprehensive guide to fi nding great surf on the Japanese  James Kemp Hiking and Hot Springs: Highlights of a Weekend in Nagano 13 Nagano-based travel writer Peter Ninnes takes all the guesswork archipelago, providing recommendations and tips for Japan’s four Graphic Design and Layout out of planning a trip to the great outdoors for those looking to distinct seasons. Chief among them? Watch out for foot-spearing  Melania Jusuf reconnect with nature. With three different itineraries for all the sea urchins. Cover photograph hiking, sightseeing, and onsen-ing you could ever want, Peter’s Sports: Running the Scenic Route 24  Josh Del Pino got it all sorted out for you! One of fi rst-year JET Jessica Perl’s fi rst trips was to the island of  Note: in last month (April’s) edition of Connect Magazine, we er- Yoron to run a 21 km marathon. She expected some nice views roneously attributed the cover photo to Melania Jusuf, when it should actually have been attributed to Josh Del Pino (who’s also provided us and good running, but was overwhelmed by the kindness of with this month’s cover!) Apologies and thanks in equal measure, Josh! Yoron’s supportive citizens and the energizing beauty of the sea.

This edition, and all past editions of AJET Connect, can also be found online at http://ajet.net/ajet-connect/ Culture: From Sea to Summit 25 Fashion and Beauty: Exporting Styles 33 Shizuoka ALT and Fuji-looking enthusiast Jordan Ozaki prefers Harajuku has long been known as one of the world’s fashion relaxing on the beach to climbing Mt. Fuji from base to summit, centers, and fashion-forward bloggers Siobhan and Miriam want but that doesn’t mean she can’t talk to someone who did! Jordan to keep you ahead of the game. Read on to see what’s hot in looks at the cultural importance of Fuji, and the signifi cance of Ometosando this season. climbing the whole thing. Food: Japan’s Big Pickle 34 Culture: The Naked Truth 26 It’s rare to see a cleanly-arranged Japanese set meal without a Every culture holds different values, and these values change over little dish of pickles in the corner, but have you ever wondered time. Heenali Patel summarizes and analyzes the history of nudity why? Food editor Xan Wetherall dives into the briny depths of and sexuality in Japan in this well-researched article. Japan’s pickle history. Entertainment: Let’s Studying Engrish! 28 Food: The Evolution of Kyushoku 35 Living in Japan, it’s nigh-impossible not to see English everywhere. If you’re an ALT, you’ve almost certainly eaten school lunch with Japan loves the language (part of the reason we’re here), and your students. And while everyone’s experience with the tray of from products on the shelves of the suupaa to handbags in the school-mandated munchables differs as much as anything else hundred-yen store, you’re bound to fi nd bounties of broken, on the JET Program, there’s much to be said for Japan’s school rambling, or just plain funny English. Editor Chris Barstow waxes lunch system. Editor Ariane Bobiash extols the virtues of these 4 poetic on the risks of random translation. balanced meals Entertainment: The Console Wars 29 Events Calendar 37 Events editor Steven Thompson harnesses the mighty opinion of his fellow gamers in this look at the new technology going to Photography Contest Results battle this year. Check it out for a rundown of the goods and bads of the boxes begging for your business. Fashion and Beauty: Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow 31 Summer comes earlier down south in Okinawa, and Kathryn Strong is preparing for the sweat and frizz that comes with it. She has some ways to get your hair under control and out of your face while still looking good and professional. Fashion and Beauty: Eyes on the Prize 32 Beauty bloggers Siobhan Sullivan and Miriam Bouteba spent a lot of time trying to track down suitable substitutes for the makeup they’d found in Japan and came up with three highly recommended products. If you’re leaving the land of eyeliner this summer, make a note of these names.

This edition, and all past editions of AJET Connect, can also be found online at http://ajet.net/ajet-connect/ Here we are: It's time for this year's AJET National Council to bid you farewell and to welcome in a brand new group of dedicated individuals. It has been a busy and productive year! I am incredibly proud of all of the work my hardworking council has been able to accomplish. Every year a new group of people come together and try their best to push AJET forward in ways that benefi t JET participants, the JET Programme and life in Japan! Now it's time to hand over the torch.

As I leave, I want to give a heartfelt thanks to this year's National Council. Thank you for all you have done. I know I say thank you a lot, but I hope the repetition of it doesn't make it feel any less genuine. Everyone here has done so much work! I'm not sure that many outside of AJET will know just how much work truly goes into an effective AJET council. And I'm not sure many will ever truly see or recognize all that you've done, but here is my attempt: thank you for all of your awesome and amazing talents and efforts that you've put forward to make the 2012-2013 council stellar. Sure there are areas we fell short, and areas we could have improved. And we all did some tasks better than others. Still, at the end of the day, we did and accomplished a lot. And we did it while remaining a supportive and wonderful team. In my experience, that is a rare accomplishment. So I am really proud of everyone and what you have done. Incredibly proud. Much love, respect, admiration and appreciation to all of you. 5 And of course many thanks to all of you who have supported and worked with us this year. Thank you for helping us and being understanding throughout the year, for fi lling out surveys, for giving us feedback, for reading and contributing to this magazine and for all of the work you do on behalf of Japan and the JET Programme. There are so many dedicated and amazing individuals out there! Keep doing what you are doing! I'm proud to be your colleague.

As I head out, I am looking forward to some quiet downtime. I'm already planning out the books I will read, the trips I will investigate, and the new subjects I will study in my newly found freedom! After two years on AJET, having a less action- packed life will be a nice change of pace. But of course, I will miss the excitement too and especially I will miss the great people that I've had a chance to meet, interact and work with, people like you.

Fortunately, I leave you in good hands. You have elected a talented and enthusiastic new council to take up our efforts. I am looking forward to seeing what this new set of talents, enthusiasm and ideas will bring to the JET community. I have faith they will be great.

Many thanks to everyone for a fantastic year! I hope our paths cross again!

All the best,

Mark Sarah Jane Blenkhorn, Culture This is it - the last Connect issue of the AJET year. It’s been a fun year, with lots of interesting stories to share. Here are a couple more, to keep you primed for the new issues coming in August! Heenali Patel leads with a thoughtful exploration of the changing views on nudity in Japan. And you’ve climbed Mount Fuji! ...but have you really climbed Mount Fuji? Jordan Ozaki reports on Oxfam Japan’s Sea to Summit Challenge - from sea level to peak! Thanks for the good year, everyone! [email protected]

Amelia Hagen, Travel With May comes Golden Week, sunshine, and fl owers preceding those June showers. It also means Connect’s last issue until the new 2013-2014 JET year and a travel smorgasbord to dive into. Lachie Tranter unearths the real Fukushima while Hannah Auld reveals why Lonely Planet chose Sri Lanka as one of its top destinations for 2013. Lastly, I wrap up my fi nal travel section as editor with a few things I’ve learned while traveling as a JET. I’ve loved bringing you to foreign and domestic travel destinations the past two years and I hope you’ve enjoyed Connect Travel just as much as I have. Connect with other travelers via the AJET Couchsurfi ng group, Tatami Timeshare, and the JET-setters Facebook group for travelers and stay tuned for a travel-related AJET surprise at the end of this month! [email protected]

Ruth Rowntree, Sports Hi folks! May heralds my fi nal sprint as Sports Editor as we make way for a new editorial team this summer. However, I can’t take-off without thanking all of you who contributed, made article proposals, read our work, spread positive PR vibes 6 and championed everyone’s efforts. It’s been a pleasure working with you all over the past ten months, so know that your involvement and interest has been greatly appreciated. Please also show your support to the new team once they take to the starting blocks.

And so, with Summer that bit closer, this last lap is sprinkled with sand, sea and sweat. One of Kyushu’s surfi ng kings gives us the lowdown on the Japanese surf scene as he knows it, so swap warming your chair at the Board of Education for waxing boards of excitation on the beach this summer! We’re also transported to the tiny, idyllic island of Yoron where marathon merriment struck, leaving one lithe lady with fond memories to share.

That’s all folks! Parting words… A sporty quip by fellow Irishman, Oscar Wilde: “Football is all very well a good game for rough girls, but not for delicate boys.”

Chris Barstow, EntertainmentAs it’s Spring and the time of year for new beginnings, this issue we take a look at

some brand spanking new developments in the gaming world. And, in keeping with the season of change, it is also time to pass the baton on to a brand new team when Connect returns for the next issue. So, whether you will be leaving

these shores for new horizons beyond New Horizon this summer or saying ‘Hi, Friends!’ to a fresh batch of JETs, thanks [email protected] for reading! MEET YOUR EDITORS... YOUR MEET Neetha Mony, Volunteering In this month’s issue we return to community outreach and ideas for local AJET chapters. Does your prefecture have regular Smile Kids visits? If not, read up on how to initiate visits in your area. Also, Rhianna Aaron gives us the play by play of Oita AJET’s Charity Bike Ride and their staggering fundraising total. As this JET year comes to a close, I would especially like to thank all the amazing volunteer section contributors! Thank you for sharing your stories and wisdom about volunteering during and after your JET service. [email protected]

Annabella Massey, Fashion Here it is—the last issue of this year’s AJET Connect! It’s been an absolute pleasure working with the Fashion and Beauty readers and contributors this year. I’ll be leaving Yamanashi in August and heading back to the UK for postgraduate studies, but am really looking forward to seeing what direction the magazine takes next! Check out Kathyrn’s fi nal ‘Style Strong’ column for tips on what to do with long hair in the summer—and look out for more of her excellent work next year. I’d also like to introduce a couple of new contributors to you, Miriam and Siobhan. They run the ‘Remotely Fashion’ blog and have written two fantastic articles for us on Japanese trends in the UK and how to source really good (i.e. Japanese quality) liquid eyeliner back home—advice I’ll defi nitely be putting into practice once I touch down at Heathrow. Thanks for reading and getting involved this year!

7 Ariane Bobiash and Xan Wetherall, Food Hello once again, and welcome to the last issue of this JET year’s Connect! It’s been Ariane and I’s fi rst year joining the team, and we’ve been totally tickled to be a part of it! We’ve written and recruited, eaten and drunk, all with help from readers like you! For our last spring push, we’ve got a palate cleanser of a tsukemono article from yours truly, exploring the tasty tidbit that is the ubiquitous Japanese pickle, followed by dessert, in the form of Japanese school lunches, and how they compare to the rest of the world by the lovely Ariane! Hungry for more? Me too! Can’t wait to see you all next [email protected] [email protected] and [email protected]

Steven Thompson, Events Spring is fi nally here in Fukushima, and the symbolic sakura bring with them a revitalization of events both great and small as people emerge from their kerosene-heated homes. In this year’s fi nal Events section until fall, Nick Pelonia talks to Hokkaido ALT Dori White about her victories in a women’s-only sumo tournament up north, Brittany Shropshire refl ects on the effect one man had on the prefecture of Yamanashi, and our favorite travel addict Amelia brags about her perilous journey following Tokyo’s Yamanote line on foot in the 5th annual IVG Yamathon. Reading about all these great events get you pumped to leave the house? Check out the Events Calendar for some great suggestions, or contact me at steven. with some of your own! Thanks for a great year, thanks for supporting us, for sending in your ideas, for telling me what’s going on in Japan. Most of all, thanks for reading. I’ll see you next year here in the pages of Connect! Last month the impossible happened, a toddler was cured of HIV with routine drugs. The treatment lasted 18 months before the child and mother disappeared. When they were found, doctors were astonished to fi nd the virus had no returned. A year later, and the toddler is still HIV-free. To the world, it seemed like a miracle. It is only the 2nd recorded case of HIV being cured, and the fi rst one where commonly prescribed medication was the cause.

HIV is terrifying. It is one of the worst global pandemics in existence today. Since it was discovered in 1981, it has killed 28 million people. By comparison, the 1918 fl u pandemic WILL killed 20 million, and World War 2 killed 40 million. It is incurable, has a high mortality rate, spreads quickly, remain asymptomatic for long periods, and there is no vaccination to protect against it. The combination of these factors is rare today, and is what make HIV particularly fearful and problematic. There is hope, however. Adults often have HIV for years before symptoms show, WE by which time the virus is fully established in the immune Back in the 1980s, there wasn’t much hope of treatment, 8 system when no medication can uproot it. To understand let alone a cure. So little was known about the virus, people why this is, we need to look at how HIV works. became terrifi ed of contracting it simply by using the bus. Now we can not only treat HIV, but it seems we can cure it HIV stands for Human Immunodefi ciency Virus. As you as well. So dare we dream of eradicating HIV? might suspect, it causes a defi ciency in the immune system of the host. HIV itself does not kill, but it survives EVER Well, it isn’t quite so simple. There are many factors to by invading host immune cells and growing inside them. take into consideration when considering this case. Firstly, AT fi rst, it rapidly spreads through the body, before hiding and possibly most importantly, the doctors involved were inside DNA. It uses the host cell’s replicating systems to able to hit the virus hard and early, giving the toddler produce copies of the virus, essentially turning our immune the antiretroviral drugs within hours of being born, her system into a HIV factory. Slowly, over the course of years, mother having just tested positive for HIV. The child’s lab the immune system weakens, causing the host to develop CURE tests hadn’t even come back before the doctors started AIDS (Acquired Immunodefi ciency Syndrome). It is at this treatment with the standard child medication. There is also stage that opportunistic infections, such as pneumonia, the problem of not knowing exactly how a baby’s immune cancer, or gastrointestinal disease, take hold. The immune system affects the treatment, as babies still get most of system is unable to fi ght back against these usually mild their protection from their mother’s breast milk. infections, and eventually the host dies. From infection to AIDS can take many years, the CDC estimate that 50% of Still, this gives us hope of curing HIV in infants if they are infected people take 10 years to develop AIDS. Hosts have HIV? treated early enough, but it is not applicable to adults. usually developed AIDS by the time they realise they are Amanda Horton infected at all, meaning HIV can be spread unintentionally, which is resistant to HIV. With some genetic engineering, especially by promiscuous people. the host’s own immune system could be adapted to be resistant to HIV. This is all experimentally, however, and HIV is diffi cult to fi ght for many reasons. Firstly, it mutates, costly. A cure would be useless if no one could afford it, making it hard to target as medication and potential so for now, while not impossible, it is still just a dream. vaccines need to be constantly adapted. This is the same problem we have when treating cold and fl u viruses. Before you get depressed, it should be remembered that Secondly, it destroys the immune system, the very thing HIV is no longer the death sentence it used to be, at least designed to fi ght against invaders. not in the developed world. Since good antiretroviral therapies came into use in the 1990s, many HIV carriers can It’s not all doom and gloom, HIV, while scary, isn’t so easy expect to live a near-normal lifespan. Proper precautions to catch. It is a blood infection, meaning you need to have can prevent transmission to others, and many HIV carriers contact with an infected person’s blood. This can be from can live a perfectly normal life. Unfortunately, nearly 70% sexual contact, sharing needles, breastfeeding, pre-natal of infected people live in sub-Saharan Africa, where access transmission, or blood transfusions. In children, it is mostly to drugs is relatively poor. Without any truly effective commonly acquired from infected mothers, and these cases treatment, and with 14,000 new cases a day, all efforts can be prevented by drugs, caesarean section and bottle now are on stopping the spread of HIV, and for now, all we feeding. In adults, most infections are from unprotected can do is hope. sex with an infected partner, especially in countries where blood is screened for infections before transfusions take 9 place. Really, all said and done, prevention is better than cure when HIV is concerned. That said, there is no need to get paranoid. HIV cannot be transmitted by blood-sucking insects, not even the dreaded mosquito, in saliva, tears or sweat, by sitting next to someone, sharing their seat, sharing their toilet or even shaking hands. There are a whole host of diseases you can get in those ways, but HIV is not one of them. HIV is a very fragile virus, it does not survive well outside the host body, and so environmental transmission is incredibly diffi cult.

Anyway, let’s get back to curing the 36.7-45.3 million people who are infected. I said earlier that the toddler recently cured was the second case, so let’s talk about the fi rst. In 2007, Timothy Ray Brown became the fi rst known case of HIV being cured. However, the method wasn’t exactly standard, or cheap, or risk-free. Timothy was cured by having his immune system destroyed as part of leukemia treatment, he was then given a stem-cell transplant to restore it, but the cells contained a rare genetic mutation Sending money overseas? Fly your money abroad with GoRemit

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SHINSEI BANK, LIMITED / No.10 Registered financial institution of Kanto Local Finance Bureau / Member of Japan Securities Dealers Association and the Financial Futures Association of Japan 2013-04 12. Taking a day and a half to attend the Justin Bieber concert in Osaka and dress up like a ninja in Shiga is 29 THINGS a totally legit use of nenkyu. 13. Visiting a family member abroad can help ease the I’VE LEARNED pain of another recently deceased family member. 14. Be wary of kava. WHILE TRAVELLING 15. Some of the best conversations are with those far older and far younger than you. ON JET 16. Monkeys enjoy onsen, too. 17. Playing out a human scavenger hunt in matching Amelia Hagen t-shirts is a sure-fi re way to get your group on TV at a sake festival. 18. If you leave your passport in a Burmese cab, don’t Over the past fi ve years I’ve spent on the JET Programme, I worry, the guesthouse owner you just met will have have used all 100 days of my nenkyu to travel somewhere memorized the cab driver’s license plate in order to out of my own prefecture. It’s been a wild rollercoaster ride call him about returning the passport later that day. and I thought I’d share a few tidbits I picked up along the 19. Hong Kong is still home to the best skyline in the way. Here’s to hoping you learn even more during your world. time on JET! 20. Do not fall for the tea house scams in major Chinese cities. 10 1. Convenience stores can also be restaurants in 21. When you meet someone, you could be talking to a Japan—complete with dining tables. future TED speaker. 2. There’s always a limit to bargaining in third world 22. Pay it forward like you may not get another chance TRAVEL markets. Humor is key. to do so. 3. Mud can be your friend! (Google Boryeong Mud 23. “Let the world change you, and you can change the Festival.) world.” – Nepali bar wall 4. Generally, if you are trying to help others, others will 24. Sometimes all the health precautions in the world inadvertently help you, too. won’t prevent you from getting sick abroad. 5. It is possible to run into JET friends you know in 25. Embrace the time you have alone. other countries…several times. 26. A smile can get you into hot water and can get you 6. In Miyajima and Nara, keep your snacks and maps out of it. away from the deer. 27. Give people the benefi t of the doubt but never fail 7. Relationships change through travel, for better and to go with your gut. for worse. 28. The most practical piece of clothing is a sarong. 8. In New Zealand, everything is ‘sweet as.’ 29. “People you meet create the paradise you fi nd.” – 9. Kusatsu is the best onsen town in Japan. Kurokawa is Robin Esrock a close second. 10. I will never enjoy train rides as much as I do in Japan. Amelia Hagen is a fi fth-year ALT in the home of Ayumi Hamasaki, also 11. Even when 100 is the goal, 81 bowls of wanko soba known as Fukuoka Prefecture. When not boarding a 737 or regretting in Iwate is way too many. that overnight bus trip, she is most likely planning her next jaunt. You can follow her on Twitter via @jetset_amelia as she tweets her travels. Two years have passed since the March 11th Great East Japan We had worked up a healthy appetitie by this point so it Earthquake and Tsunami and there has been signifi cant was time for a special “Wappa meshi” (circular steamed progress. However, much is left to do here in Fukushima. bento box) lunch at Tagoto, a famous cuisine hotel, where I believe one of the most important jobs, particularly for the food was melt-in-your-mouth sublime. people outside of the prefecture, overseas is to get to know the real Fukushima. It is a prefecture surrounded by The next stop was Tsuruga Castle in Aizu-Wakamatsu City, nature. Fukushima has over 900 onsen, stunning mountain the scene of the Sunday night NHK drama ‘Yae no Sakura,’ ranges, fi ve coloured lakes, the spectacular waterfall cherry the fi nal battle in the Boshin War, and the scene of the last blossom tree and, fi nally, amazing local food from the samurai (not involving Tom Cruise). Tsuruga Castle is also main three regions: Hama-dori, Naka-dori and Aizu. Back famous because it is the only current castle in Japan with in winter, I and a group of friends went on a journey to a red tiled roof. We decided to have our own war in the discover all of this and more. snow, before we were told to stop by the “samurai guard” at the castle. The fi rst stop was Lake Inawashiro, located at the foot of Mt.Bandai in northwest Fukushima, and the home of The last stop in this two-day trip around Fukushima the celebrated Dr. Hideo Noguchi (of “1,000-yen note ended back in Fukushima City at a famous restaurant, mugshot” fame). Here, we ate a special celebratory style of “Manpuku,” for some Fukushima enban, or circular plate, soba made from local prefectural ingredients. This area is gyoza. famous for producing buckwheat used for soba. Tourist numbers are still 20 percent down from pre- 11 From here we moved to Lake Hibarako in Kitashiobara disaster numbers, particularly in the Aizu region. This is sad Village in the Aizu region to try riding snow mobiles as well considering the history and beauty this region offers and TRAVEL as ice fi shing on the frozen lake. Here, I even managed the fact that it is 200 kilometers away from the damaged to catch a fi sh! Later that night, we fried the fi sh we had nuclear plant. My own two-day trip around the prefecture caught for our after-party inside the ryokan at the onsen. It was extremely enjoyable! I hope everyone will also begin was surprisingly tasty. a journey to Fukushima. I am sure you will have a fantastic time, even if you choose to do just one of the activities After a long day on the frozen lake, it was time to warm above. Spring and summer are also great times to visit. up so we headed back towards Fukushima City to stay Let’s not forget that Fukushima remains a beautiful and the night at Tamago-yu Onsen, a hotel with outdoor enjoyable place to live. hot springs that smell like rotten eggs because of the underground water minerals. Trust me, the health benefi ts Lachie Tranter is a second-year CIR/PA at the Fukushima Prefectural outweigh the smell! Jumping out naked from the steaming Government in Fukushima Prefecture. He loves travel, food and history hot baths into the surrounding snow was an experience to so Fukushima has been a great place to explore. As his “religion” is Australian Rules Football (AFL), he is planning an Australian Rules say the least. JOURNEY TO Football event in Fukushima, and for all of those who don’t know what it is, YouTube! The following day, we ventured back an hour across to the west of Fukushima to try our hand at traditional ceramics Image sources: www.mylifeasmrs.com; www.brownjca.org; FUKUSHIMA in Aizu-Wakamatsu City, where my entertaining attempt to www.twitter.com/masakosydney; dustinandlaura.blogspot.com Lachie Tranter make a Japanese sake bottle failed miserably. SEDUCTIVE SRI LANKA Hannah Auld

In some religious mythology, when Adam and Eve were the Tooth, a revered Buddhist site said to hold one of cast out of Eden, Adam was sent to Sri Lanka. Not much Buddha’s—you guessed it—teeth, and the Bairavokhanda of a punishment; the island itself doesn’t fall far short of Vihara Buddha who towers over the city. A bit of an urban paradise, and with the end of its 30-year civil war in 2009, hike, especially in the heat, but he’s worth it; this site offers the country basically is heaven for budget travellers. While some of the best panoramas of Kandy Lake, lined with certainly in the process of beefi ng up its tourism industry, whitewashed stone, nestled in its lush green surroundings. there are still a few years left to enjoy the singularity of this We sadly ran out of time to visit many of the highlights: remarkable island. namely, Sri Pada (Adam’s Peak), a Buddhist pilgrimage 12 We touched down in Colombo, staying there one night climbed by torchlight to view the sunrise; and before heading to Galle and the coastal towns of the Anuradhapura, the capital for almost 2000 years, holding South. Galle Fort, one of the most popular destinations, the ruins of ancient Sri Lankan civilisation. This prompts a TRAVEL seems like a particularly luxurious tourist ghetto, with bit of advice when travelling through Sri Lanka: unless you stunning views of the Laccadive Coast and plenty of hotel want to pay for a private driver, know exactly where you’re restaurants where you can eat like a king for half the price going and leave plenty of time in which to get there. Off of a Japanese McDonald’s. It’s relaxed, but sedate—the the usual tourist trail usually means having to navigate a minute you step (or tuk-tuk) outside its walls to Galle town sadly underdeveloped transport system, made clear to us or to the nearby beach town of Unawatuna, the holiday when our train broke down for an hour in the sweltering atmosphere remains but the local colour is revived. It’s true, afternoon heat. Fair enough, 40-year-old trains on century- you won’t go far without encountering the irrepressible old colonial tracks will always make for a bumpy journey. Sri Lankan character. Stony “tourist” stares are only till But Colombo to Galle spent trundling along on the you smile, say hello and see this completely reciprocated. antiquated railway, sitting in an open carriage door, gazing Underneath their friendliness, Sri Lankans are no fools at the Laccadive Sea—it’s hard not to fall for Sri Lanka. A either—with a wicked sense of humour, an impressive million miles from the shinkansen comforts we all know literacy rate for a developing country (over 90 percent) and and love, but no less enticing a journey. English education since fi rst grade, they make up a country of charming and willing conversationalists. Hannahpossibly Auld can. is She a fi lives rst-year in Kurume, ALT from Fukuoka Glasgow. Prefecture. She will read anything and While the South is for beach chillin’, the Central Province everything put in front of her and enjoys travelling, learning Japanese, and sampling as many types of onigiri as a vegetarian is for spiritual treasures. In Kandy, there’s the Temple of yuzu sake, Many Japan residents and tourists from overseas visit Saturday—have a relaxed breakfast, and then drive to Nagano Prefecture in winter for its great skiing and snow one of the day-use onsen establishments deep in the boarding at venues such as Hakuba and Shiga Kogen. mountains, such as Jippuku no Yu or Sasara no Yu. Both Yet for many Japanese people, Nagano Prefecture also places also have cafeterias serving the famous Nagano Peter Ninnes Peter evokes images of clean air, forested mountains and remote soba noodles, so you can have lunch before or after your hot springs. Now that winter is over, there are many bath. Drive back to Kamesei Ryokan, then spend the rest of opportunities to get away from the big smoke and enjoy a the afternoon strolling around Togura-Kamiyamada Onsen weekend break or a longer stay in Nagano, hiking in the town. Soak your feet in the footbath in the main street, or mountains or soaking in the onsens. visit one of the other local bathhouses such as the historic Kame no Yu. Enjoy another evening meal at the ryokan Nagano Prefecture in central Honshu is neighbor to eight or ask the proprietor, Tyler-san, for his local restaurant other prefectures—Saitama, Yamanashi, Shizuoka, Aichi, recommendations. Gifu, Toyama, Niigata, and Gunma. Most parts of eastern and northern Nagano can be reached in 2-3 hours by car Sunday—Check out of the ryokan at 10am. If you are or 60-90 minutes by bullet train from Tokyo. From Nagoya, heading back in the direction of Tokyo, stop at one of the southern reaches of Nagano can be reached in 1.5 the onsens in Tomi City or Komoro City to enjoy fabulous hours by car, while Nagano City is about a 4-hour drive. views of the mountains. Yurarikan in Tomi City has great Another option from Nagoya or Osaka is to take the views across to the mountains to the west, including Mt NAGANO scenic JR Shinano Line through the famous Kiso Valley to Yatsugatake and Mt Tateshina, while from Aguri no Yu Matsumoto, Chikuma and Nagano cities (2-3 hours from Komoro there are great views of the occasionally smoking 13 Nagoya). volcanic cone of Mt Asama. If you have come from the Nagoya direction, you could make a stop at Gake no Yu Whether you are interested in hiking or hot springs, basing in Matsumoto City for some excellent views across the yourself at somewhere like Kamesei Ryokan in Chikuma Matsumoto Plain or enjoy the big outdoor bath at Awa no City gives you access to plenty of choices. The hikes around

HIKING AND HOT SPRINGS: HIKING AND Yu in Shirahone Onsen. the Chikuma River valley in the vicinity of Ueda City and Chikuma City are suitable for most levels of fi tness, while there are also many fi ne hot springs establishments Hiking Weekend Friday—drive to Chikuma City, check into Kamesei Ryokan. nearby. Below are my recommendations for, fi rst, an onsen Enjoy a traditional Japanese meal (kaiseki cuisine) and

A WEEKEND IN A WEEKEND weekend, second, a hiking weekend, and third, a fi ve-night soak in their indoor and outdoor baths. “onsen plus sightseeing” trip around Nagano prefecture. Of course, these itineraries can be modifi ed to suit the time Saturday—Take a picnic lunch and hike to the top of Mt HIGHLIGHTS OF HIGHLIGHTS available. And if you have a few days to spare, there are Gorgamine. This hike takes about 4-6 hours, depending on more suggestions in the books listed at the end of this the route taken. Your climb is rewarded with magnifi cent article. views along the Chikuma River Valley and across to the Northern Alps. With an early start, you can also hike along Onsen Weekend the ridge from Gorigamine to Miyasaka Pass and back to Friday—Travel to Chikuma City and check into Kamesei the ryokan, or all the way to Mt Ariake in the north of Ryokan. Enjoy a traditional Japanese meal (kaiseki cuisine) Chikuma City (7-8 hours). and soak in the indoor and outdoor baths. Sunday—Check out of the ryokan and head to Ueda City. local area. Soak in the ryokan’s indoor and outdoor baths. Climb Mt Tokko (3 hours return) or Mt Komayumi (also 3 There is a family bath that you can rent, too. Stroll around hours return) for superb views of the Shioda Plains and the the onsen town, try one of the other local bathhouses, or Bessho Onsen area. Reward yourself with a soak in one of soothe your feet in the footbath in the main street. the baths in Bessho, such as Oyu, which is in a classical wooden building in the middle of the town. If you have Day 5. Drive south through Ueda City, Tomi City, and time, visit some of the famous temples and shrines in the Komoro City. There are a number of day-use hot spring town, which date from the Kamakura Era (1185-1333). establishments in these cities with excellent views west to the Yatsugadake mountain range or east to the Asama range with its smoking volcano. Spend the night in the Five-Night Onsen plus Sightseeing Tour Karuizawa area, and in one fi nal splurge, visit the very chic You can start this round trip at any point, and below I start Tonbo no Yu at Hoshino Onsen . in the west of the Prefecture and go clock-wise. The above are just a few examples of the many fi ne hiking Day 1. Drive to Matsuomoto City and stay at Maruei and hot spring escapes available in beautiful Nagano Ryokan, Shirahone Onsen. Located in the mountains near Prefecture. Full details can be found in my “Nagano Onsen the border with Gifu, this ryokan has small, separate male Guide: The Top 100 Day-Use Hot Springs” book, and in the and female indoor baths, and a mixed bathing outdoor “Hiking, Walking and Biking Nagano” series of books (for bath with Shirahone’s famous silky smooth, opaque, milky Ueda City and Chikuma City), all in English and available water. Across the road is the well-known Awa no Yu, which on amazon.com or from select bookstores in Nagano has a much larger outdoor bath but tends to be more 14 Prefecture. crowded. Try them both if you have time.

Day 2. Drive into central Matsumoto City and visit the castle, then continue north up to Hakuba. If your budget Peter Ninnes is an educational consultant and travel writer based in allows, stay at the Hakuba Highland Hotel. In any case, Chikuma City, Nagano. take a soak in the hotel’s Tenjin no Yu baths, which have fabulous views of the Northern Alps.

Day 3. In the morning, drive east to Nagano City and visit Zenkouji Temple, which dates from the 7th century, and is said to contain the oldest Buddha statue in Japan. In the afternoon, drive over to Yamanouchi Town and visit the snow monkeys at Jigokudani Wild Monkey Park. Stay at one of the many ryokans or hotels in Shibu Onsen town or nearby Yudanaka Onsen. Guests get free entry to the numerous local bathhouses, including the atmospheric Oyu in Shibu Onsen.

Day 4. Drive south to Chikuma City and stay at Kamesei Ryokan in Togura-Kamiyamada Onsen area. The English- speaking proprietors can tell you all about the history of the Have you ever heard of Yamanashi prefecture? If you have, Every year during the fi rst weekend of April, the citizens of the thought that probably comes to mind is, “Oh yeah, I our prefecture hold a vibrant festival in Shingen’s honor, went there to climb Mt. Fuji.” Maybe you’ve had a sip of called “Shingenko Matsuri”—the Festival for General our famous Katsunuma wine, although you didn’t actually Shingen. Three days of cultural activities, performances, know where that wine came from. Chances are you’ve and battle reenactments mark the anniversary of Shingen’s

Brittany Shropshire never had the chance to try our prefectural specialty, an death in 1573. Citizens from all over the prefecture come udon-like hearty noodle dish called houtou. to the capital to take part in the celebrations, and individual cities host their own events as well. Perhaps the highlight So I don’t blame you at all if you’ve never heard of our of the weekend is the Koshu Army March held on Saturday most famous festival, Shingenko Matsuri. evening, which boasts nearly 1,500 participants and is one of the biggest parades in Japan. Each year, a famous actor In fact, I bet that Japanese people don’t even know or talent is asked to play the role of Shingen himself. that this tiny prefecture was once in a position of power during Japan’s period of unifi cation in the 16th century! Despite the bothersome weather conditions on the drizzly Oda Nobunaga and Toyotomi Hideyoshi are relatively Saturday afternoon, this year the well-known period drama well-known fi gureheads of the Warring States era, but actor Matsudaira Ken braved the rain as General Shingen. Yamanashi has its own hero from that time period: Takeda Spectators lined the streets to observe the mounted troops, GENERAL Shingen. hundreds of foot soldiers, and young maidens all clothed in traditional garments as they marched along the roads The infl uence of this powerful warlord can be glimpsed of the capital and around the base of the Maizuru castle 15 almost anywhere in Yamanashi, even on a normal day. ruins. Walk a few meters from the south exit of the capital’s main LEGENDARY LEGENDARY EVENTS station, and you’ll be greeted by the looming statue of his If you’re a fan of history, consider stopping by to check armor-clad fi gure. Shingen’s four-diamond family crest is out the parade next year. You can take in an amazing

YAMANASHI’S YAMANASHI’S engraved on various buildings and signs; it’s evolved into reenactment of a unique time period, eat yummy a prefectural symbol. Yamanashi’s most famous shrines are Yamanashi festival food, and check out a variety of cultural related to Shingen as well. Takeda Shrine, which is said to exhibitions while you’re here. Fu-rin-ka-zan! hold his spirit, and Erinji, which is the location of the Takeda family grave, are two often-visited tourist attractions. Even Brittany is a second-year ALT living in the Land of Fuji, Yamanashi! She our local soccer team, Ventforet Kofu, takes its name from enjoys traveling, video games, and the never-ending tickle wars with her Shingen’s famed battle adage: “fu-rin-ka-zan”, or “wind- nauseatingly cute elementary school students. forest-fi re-mountain,” meaning to run as fast as the wind; All photos taken by Thomas Lord, and used with his permission. wait as quietly as the forest; attack as powerfully as a fi re; and defend as imposingly as a mountain. Originally an expression to motivate his troops, this phrase now serves as a similar inspiration to our players! Every May, the tiny town of Fukushima on the Did you have any kind of prior contact- southern tip of Hokkaido hosts a Women’s-Only Sumo sports (martial arts/wrestling/football/etc.) Tournament. Fukushima (not to be confused with the experience?

Nick Pelonia prefecture) is most famous for raising two former sumo grand champions: Chiyonoyama and Chiyonofuji, the Does tae kwan do in third grade count? No? Ok then. I latter often being considered as the most successful have never had any prior experience. I honestly was just sumo wrestler of all time. Although the role of women in hoping to not embarrass myself. I had no practice and all I Japanese sumo history is a controversial one, this unique really knew about the rules of sumo is get the other person competition strays from tradition and plays host to 64 out of the ring. I walked into the tournament thinking, “Ok, female participants. Most participate to have fun and to Dori, just try to get into the top ten.” After seeing the say they participated, while some travel from all over Japan competition, I was very nervous. It was my fi rst time ever and train vigorously. The tournament is open to women of doing sumo, and I was doing it in front of a lot of people. I any nationality. In fact, a foreigner placed fi rst in 1998 and had a lot of “the shakes” waiting in between matches. remains the only foreigner to do so. What were the reactions to you Last year, the tournament’s sole foreign entrant, a JET participating and then doing so well? Did ALT named Dori White, competed and took second anything change as you did better? place overall. This May 12th, Dori will try her best to become the second foreigner to achieve fi rst place in the My fellow competitors were very sweet. I was pretty oblivious tournament’s 22-year history. We asked her about her and nervous, yet they were very supportive. Although later 16 sumo adventures. I heard that apparently many women were rather panicked about coming up against me. My friend and I had a great Where are you originally from and where time the night before at Fukushima’s enkai, so many of EVENTS are you located now? the people who ran the tournament would fl ash me an encouraging smile. As I did better, many members of the I am from Kansas City, USA and graduated from the audience would ask for pictures of me or actually come University of Kansas (Rock Chalk Jayhawk!). I am on my up to me and give encouragement. I felt like a politician rd 3 year as the town of Mori’s ALT. as one man thrust his baby in my arms and snapped a

IS STRENGTH photo. I still can’t believe that actually happened. It was How did you fi nd out about the sumo a very positive experience and I hope that I have just as tournament? Why did you decide to get great a time this year. My mother and step-dad have come involved? to watch me this year (it is on Mother’s day), so I hope they also have a great time PERSEVERANCE PERSEVERANCE My predecessor entered before and encouraged me to try. I have always liked sumo wrestling; however, I was rather hesitant to What’s a good strategy for sumo wrestling? enter. I was thinking about entering my fi rst year here, but the event was cancelled due to the Tohoku Earthquake. I almost Do you have any special moves? didn’t enter last year but was encouraged from my friend to I had no strategy, just get the other person out of the ring— try, just to say I had the wild experience of entering a sumo or smush them. Either way works. My favorite match was contest. She promised to act as my cheerleader (she did a when I lifted this woman off her feet then waddled over to phenomenal job) and so the adventure began. the edge of the ring and set her outside. No special moves; just lift or smush. Did any of your students or coworkers physical. I found that a quick start gives you a lot of edge. watch you? What was it like returning back Moving from the sumo start position (heck, just holding to your town after doing so well in the my balance in the start position) is hard for me. So I try to work on my balance a lot. I also joined a gym to improve tournament? my overall fi tness. Because I was rather nervous, and honestly thought I wasn’t going to do well at all, hardly anyone in my town What are your thoughts and what will you knew I entered. So no one other than my cheerleader be doing differently (if any) going into this friend came to watch me. The Friday before the competition year›s tournament? was the BOE hanami, and over a nama beer I told the boys (my offi ce was all male at the time) that I was going to go There is a saying in Japan, “Keisoku wa chikara nari.” It for it. They ate it up! They were giving me tips and had means “perseverance is strength.” It’s one of my favorite two of the younger guys practice against each other to Japanese proverbs and I am going into this tournament show me how to grip my opponent. It was one of the best holding that in my head. I want to grip tighter, hold on experiences I have had with my offi ce. And then to hear I longer, and push harder. got second place! They held a surprise party for me; giving The biggest difference between this year and last year is that me a photo album they had made using photos they had a whole lot more people are telling me to “get fi rst.” The gotten after calling Fukushima’s yakuba. I was incredibly pressure to get fi rst is a bit overwhelming. Although I want touched (there were tears). to get fi rst, and I have been sweating and training for fi rst, I 17 What was the best outcome of the whole experience am going to walk into this with the same hope as last time, was that my rapport with my students deepened “Ok, Dori, just try and get into the top ten.” And even if I signifi cantly. All that week, students, some of whom who fall I will still try again next year because my other favorite EVENTS were uninterested in me before, came up to congratulate Japanese proverb is “Shichi ten hakki,”—fall down seven me, say they saw me on TV or the newspaper, or challenge times get up eight. me to arm wrestling. Some of my students from a problem class really became well-behaved during my lessons. That Closing comments is an amazing thing, that something I was so nervous I consider getting second place at the Fukushima Women’s about doing had such an impact on some of my students. Sumo tournament one of, if not, the best, experiences I They had a sense of pride for me. have had as an ALT. Even if I fail to place again, I got second once. I have a great relationship with many As this year›s tournament draws near, have of my students thanks to this and the support of my you been doing any kind of training since community. My two-foot trophy is also pretty awesome, too. placing 2nd last year? I went to my fi rst live sumo match for my birthday last Nick is a second-year ALT in Fukushima-cho, Hokkaido. He likes coffee, year, and then in October I went to Tokyo to watch traveling, taking photos, and thinks it’s pretty trippy writing about sumo training. I took some video and have watched it himself in the third-person. Whoa. closely. I try and mimic some of the movements, especially All photos taken by the author, Nick Pelonia, and used with his the squatting exercises. Sumo was surprisingly hard and permission. 430 participants. 117 teams. 46 kilometers (28.6 miles) bowls like never before, and logged our progress via social walked. 29 train stations visited. 11 hours, 6 minutes. 4 media. I could say it was one of the best experiences I’ve had GOING friends. This is the Tokyo Yamathon. on JET, but that would still probably be an understatement. The Yamathon is a charity fundraiser event created by When we reached the Yoyogi fi nish line, 11 hours and 6 then-Shizuoka-JET Joe Pournovin in 2010 and organized minutes later at 6:15pm, we were told we placed 46th out GODZILLA: in conjunction with the International Volunteer Group of 117 teams and basically went crazy out of excitement. (IVG). As its website says, it is indeed the ‘ultimate urban As organizer Joe later said to me, “People like overcoming challenge,’ requiring participants to visit (and by visit, I pain and the buzz you get from doing something like that.” mean walk or run to) all 29 stations on the famed JR Our team would agree. With over one million raised and THE TOKYO Yamanote Line in Tokyo. Participants take on the Yamanote counting this year, there’s certainly a reason the Yamathon Line in teams of three to four people and are given smart was featured in the Japan Times a few years ago. phone and paper maps ahead of time. However, in the end, What makes the Yamathon so special? According to it’s up to each team’s wit to get them back to the fi nish line YAMATHON Joe, it’s always been about “bringing together the JET at Yoyogi Park. Amelia Hagen community.”Core Yamathon volunteer Fred De Condappa Where does charity factor in? Each team pays an 8,000- emphasizes the ease and safety of the event and highlights yen registration fee. Thanks to Yamathon sponsors who the people he’s met. These two have high hopes for the cover necessary costs, this money goes directly to Oxfam Yamathon. If anything can be learned from the Yamathon Japan to fi ght poverty in the Congo. Each team is also story, it’s that, as Joe says, ‘There are so many JETs out expected to fundraise for Oxfam Japan via an online giving there who can do so much. The sky’s the limit.’ 18 page or accepting cash donations in person. Through our Interested in getting involved next year? Contact IVG at: team profi le on the Yamathon website, we were able to http://tokyo-yamathon.com/contact-us. post photos of us, showcase our team goals and mindset, EVENTS and include a link to our Virgin Online Giving page. Saturday, April 20th, was the big day. At exactly 7:09am, Amelia Hagen is a fi fth-year ALT in the home of Ayumi Hamasaki, also known with each of us rocking a different color and matching as Fukuoka Prefecture. She usually serves as your AJET Connect Travel Editor but enjoyed the Yamathon so much, she thought she’d share. You bandanna, we set out from Yoyogi Park heading south can still follow her on Twitter via @jetset_amelia as she tweets her travels. towards Shibuya, posing differently for pictures in front of each station. Hamamatsucho was riding in a car; Shimbashi was squatting, smoking salarymen; Yurakucho was EXILE; Akihabara was an attempt at a hadoken photo; Uguisudani was the ‘Flying V.’ Throughout our 46-kilometer adventure and between countless conbini stops, we encountered numerous other Yamathon’ers, camaraderie, some rain, cool artwork, hunger, exhaustion, and the prettiest wisteria-draped public bathroom I’ve ever seen. My teammates and I also ‘experienced’ each other’s corny jokes, played around in a park in a north Tokyo neighborhood, ate Yoshinoya beef The Fastest, Easiest and Most Fun Way to Learn Japanese Prepare for life in Japan with JapanesePod101.com

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This past March, approximately 100 people supported and participated in the Oita AJET 2013 Charity Bike Ride: “Kizuna”— Bonding Beyond Borders. This was our 16th year of running the event and it turned out to be our largest ever! This year’s ride brought together participants from eight different prefectures and raised money for Foundation 18, an orphanage and 19 elderly care program in Bali, Indonesia! Here’s a recap of the event: On the morning of Saturday, March 16th more than one hundred people gathered at Tsukumin Park in Tsukumi City, Oita Prefecture. The weather was sunny and cool, but the atmosphere was buzzing with excitement. Months of planning VOLUNTEERING by the organizers, a truly dynamic duo, was fi nally going to be put to the test. As early as 8:00am bikers were prepping gear, volunteers were distributing goodies, musicians were playing tunes, and spectators were taking it all in. After fi nal announcements and a safety check, the ride commenced at 10:00am. A crowd sent off the bikers with a countdown, cheers, and a musical fanfare from ﾌｧﾐﾘｱﾄﾛﾝﾎﾞｰﾝｱﾝｻﾝﾌﾞﾙ (Familia Trombone Ensemble), a touring trio of talented musicians! Immediately after the bikers were off, the volunteers hopped into their support vehicles and the ride was offi cially in top gear.

The course took participants from Tsukumi City to Sumie Beach in Miyazaki Prefecture on Saturday and then returned along the same route on Sunday, for a total of about 200km. Along the way, cyclists were supported by volunteers who offered snacks, drinks, and minor repairs. There were also a few rest stops along the way that offered rare treats such as carrot ice cream or the chance to see a beetle statue the size of a car!

The route was beautiful, but not without its fair share of challenging climbs. Volunteers did their absolute best to encourage and motivate bikers throughout the duration of the ride, and especially along the sloping peaks and valleys. Although challenged, the bikers were excited to reach each checkpoint and spend a few moments recharging. Almost every volunteer car was stocked with refreshments, although gummy snacks and chocolate chip cookies seemed to be high on everyone’s wish list. Towards the end of the route on Saturday, bikers were presented with some tough decisions. Only the most courageous riders dared to complete the last 20km on what should be known as “Hell Hill”, while those with weary legs opted to catch a pre-arranged shuttle to the campsite.

Despite everyone being exhausted from the fi rst day’s trip, the scene at camp was boisterous and fun! New friendships and memories were made while many participants mingled and socialized in various cabins. A few brave women and a few overconfi dent men, decided to have an arm wrestling contest: the battle of the sexes! It’s not clear who came out on top, although there was a rumor that a few humbled men retreated into their cabins after being defeated by an unsuspecting female or two. After a delicious meal of giant soft tacos, a group meeting was held. Prizes were given for achievements such as most donations raised, fi rst rider to fi nish, fi rst rider to quit, and last rider to cross the fi nish line. But arguably the best prize of the night was a surprise marriage proposal. As the meeting was shifting gears into a bingo game, the lights suddenly turned off and a heartfelt plea was made to the backdrop of cell phone lights and Bruno Mars’ hit song ‘Marry You’. Yes, that’s right! One of the organizers got engaged during the bike trip! The fi rst night ended on a high note as everyone dozed off to sleep, dreaming of making it back to Tsukumin Park still standing.

The next morning, eager bikers hit the road and did so in record time. The ride started at 9:00am and the fi rst biker arrived back in Tsukumi City just before noon! Compared to the day before, this was at least 90minutes faster than the previous day’s fastest time. However, most participants lingered about after fi nishing and formed a human tunnel to welcome the last 4 bikers who arrived shortly before 4:00pm.

Approximately two weeks after the end of the bike ride, the startling donation total was announced. The event raised ¥907,385! That’s AUD $9291, CAD $9832, EUR €7550, GBP £6356, NZD $11,557, TTD $61,962, and USD $9659! 20 Upon hearing the amount donated, Cate Bolt, the founder and CEO of Foundation 18, fell off of her chair and burst into tears. She had no idea that such a signifi cant amount of money was raised and was left speechless. The money sent to Indonesia will go far to fulfi ll the needs of the Balinese orphanage, elderly care center and community that is supported by VOLUNTEERING Foundation 18. Please read more about this amazing charity here: www.foundation18.org

If you’ve never participated in the Oita AJET Charity Bike Ride, it’s highly recommended that you join while you have the opportunity! Many JETs say that it’s their favorite event while here in Japan. It’s defi nitely a challenge, but all the fun and memories made make it well worth it. Email [email protected] if you’d like to be kept up-to- date with details on next year’s event. よろしくね！

SHARING SMILES Neetha Mony

Over the past year, I’ve learned about dozens of amazing We are looking for people with a passion for child welfare organizations JETs have worked with, from international to organize culturally diverse volunteer teams, and lead nonprofi t organizations to local projects to even AJET monthly, 2-hour visits to their local orphanages. There are chapters. There is so much out there for those seeking 585 orphanages in Japan, which means we are looking for volunteer work. But while many of these organizations 585 leaders. Will you be one of them? Let’s work together are in prefectures far from you, Smile Kids Japan is an to bring smiles to the faces of children in need across opportunity that can be initiated anywhere. Japan! My fi rst year on JET, some very dedicated sempai JETs Why Volunteer With Smile Kids Japan? worked hard to organize the fi rst Smile Kids visit in our We fully support volunteers by assisting them with making prefecture. One of the JETs had some students who lived orphanage visits successful. We provide assistance right in an “ikuseien”, or foster home. She arranged a meeting from the start by helping volunteers contact, and start for the foster home staff and JETs to talk about beginning relationships with their local orphanage(s). We provide 21 regular visits. The staff was nervous, unsure of why a group continual support, ideas, and advice for as long as a of foreigners wanted to volunteer their time, but they volunteer/ volunteer team wishes to donate their time and agreed to let some JETs come as long as we included some skills to our cause. cultural activities and games. Looking back at our fi rst visit, we were all nervous, hoping that the visit would have a We fully support Japan’s orphanages. We have worked VOLUNTEERING positive impact on the kids. Now, two years later, the Smile with staff and children in orphanages across the country. Kids outreach in Nara is going strong and the kids enjoy With that experience, we are able to easily liaise between seeing familiar faces at the visits. orphanages and volunteers in order to make relationships work, and provide only benefi ts for all involved. Smile Kids If you or your AJET chapter is interested in starting Smile Japan has become a trusted name in the child welfare Kids visits in your prefecture, here’s some information from community, so joining us will make it easier for you to Meredith Smith, a Fukui ALT and Smile Kids Japan’s Media reach your goal of helping children in your community. and Public Relations Director. What’s the purpose of Smile Kids Japan? Smile Kids Japan’s mission is to have all of Japan’s If you are living in Japan and interested orphanages visited once each month by dedicated teams of in starting or joining visits to your local culturally diverse volunteers willing to provide big brother/ big sister mentorship and cultural exchange to children orphanage, please email volunteer@ who rely on Japan’s orphanages for care and support. smilekidsjapan.org . the Kyushu surf scene when both the occasion and the 4thwaves Year arise. American He says JET he flMatthew ounders Dursum about theis plaicea self- a lot makes Japan a great surfi ng destination. Sitting on the but he's just being a little koi as he's reely on his whale to SURF’S UP, confessed サーフィン馬鹿（ surf addict） who attacks western boundary of the Pacifi c ring of fi re, the volcanic being hooked like an ofi shal surf pro! history is shown in the rugged coastline. Surf spots are SUN’S OUT countless due to complex topography and bathymetry. Read on to fi nd out more about Japan’s surfi ng landscape,Bays, inlets, river mouths, beaches and offshore reefs seasonal surf-turf trends and how the ocean unfolds todiversify the type of waves available. Shallow reefs, DIVE IN! offer sport and fun to those who dare brave the brine. crowded beaches, and rocky point breaks can be found everywhere; you just need to know where and when.

Japan is surrounded by the East China Sea, the Sea of GET ON Japan and the Pacifi c Ocean. While every ocean coastline in Japan gets surf, the quality and consistency varies. Sussing out the Surf Scene This largely has to do with the area over which wind has It’s been almost four years since I moved to this disparate blown, called fetch, as well as wind speed, time duration BOARD! island nation. Through my father’s stories and photos of his of wind, the distance from the storm center to the coast former life in Japan I became fascinated and knew from an Matthew Dursum and the localized wind patterns. All these factors make surf early age I wanted to live here. Along with my interest in forecasting diffi cult and imprecise. I’ve gone to the beach Japan I have another passion: surfi ng. Surfi ng motivated after reading a forecast predicting fl at conditions only to me to fi nally leave my home in Michigan and go out West. see perfect glassy peaks roaring in front of me. But more I studied at The University of California, Santa Barbara and often than not it is the opposite scenario. 22 it was there that I became aware of the JET program and was able to fulfi ll my lifelong wish to live in Japan. Favorite Beaches/Surf Spots SPORTS When I moved to Japan from California in the summer of Water quality and sea life varies regionally. In coastal urban 2009 I was not so well-informed about the quality of surf areas, pollution can greatly impact water quality whereas here. Upon arriving in my seaside town during the start of around rural areas and small islands the ocean is clear and typhoon season my daydreams were somewhat fractured, full of life. The southern islands south of Kyushu host some though only momentarily as by gaining fl uency in Japanese of the world’s most beautiful coral reefs. These reefs also and being social and curious I became informed about the create shallow barreling waves - not for the faint hearted! many surf points just within an hour from my house. I was pleased to learn Japan has every type of wave imaginable Here are some top places I recommend you bring your and during the right swell and wind conditions waves board: here can do great impersonations of Hawaii or Indonesia.  Kagoshima Prefecture, Tanegashima Island (whole I’ve surfed all over North America, Central America, the island) (beginner-advanced) Philippines and Indonesia and Japan holds its ground.  Kagoshima Prefecture, Amami Island (whole island) (beginner-advanced)  Miyazaki Prefecture, Nichinan (beginner- Marvelous Natural MakeUp intermediate) The geological makeup of the Japanese archipelago, as a  Kagoshima Prefecture, Ei Town (beginner) result of hundreds of millions of years of plate tectonics,  Kochi Prefecture, Niyodo Beach (intermediate- Every Japanese surfer will beam widely when someone During the spring, the ocean seems to go to sleep due advanced) says “ aki (秋),” or autumn. During this season the sun to the lack of waves. However late winter storms or  Okinawa Prefecture, Aha Point (intermediate- also beams and the winds turn offshore. Typhoons march early southern squalls will at times surprise surfers with advanced) in from the south and more often than not curve around good waves. Unfortunately these swells are rare. Just as  Okinawa Prefecture, Sunabe Seawall (advanced) the main islands of Japan without causing any damage. depression sets in from the lack of waves the mountains  Miyazaki Prefecture, Oura (intermediate-advanced) However the southern islands get hit on a yearly basis. become green and the cherry and plum trees bloom into  Miyazaki Prefecture, Uchiumi/Curren’s Point Regardless of the danger, the quality of surf during the late romantic bouquets of color. As the fl ower petals decorate (advanced) summer and early fall can be world class. the ground you can exercise your “gaman tsuyosa・我 慢 強さ,” (self-control and perseverance) as the fi rst typhoon Rocks, urchins, pollution around urban and agricultural I remember one particular day at a secluded reef point seedlings start to emerge near the Philippines reminding areas, and crowds are the biggest dangers in Japanese when I experienced fall perfection. The ocean looked like a wave-starved surfers that the huge typhoon swells of waters. Although sharks live in every ocean there have magnifi cent painting. Double overhead tubes were spitting summer will soon arrive… been only eight known fatal attacks in Japan since 1900. down the line with only a handful of guys out. I unfortunately Regardless of how few sharks Japan has one should stepped on a sea urchin while making the hairy paddle exercise common sense and avoid “sharky” areas like out. Regardless of the incredible pain, I was able to get As I wave goodbye murky river mouths or steep drop offs. countless deep barrels; even making a double barrel. My life in Japan has been enriched by my surfi ng experiences here. I can close my eyes and refl ect on a series of priceless moments shared by lifelong friends in Seasonal Treats & Trials Winter can be a challenge for surfers in Japan. In Southern Kyushu the sea remains warm in comparison to a powerful sea: waves smash against jagged black reefs At times it seems that everything from fashion, food, projecting sea spray up into the misty green mountains; 23 customs and especially surf conditions are highly infl uenced the cold Californian waters I was used to. Despite that, air temperatures will hover just above freezing throughout the the smell of incense wafting down from the temple by the changing seasons. Japan experiences a typical perched precariously on the cliff above mixes with the continental East-coast climate but lacks the temperature day. Combine that with howling gail force northerly winds and you’ve got a very cold surfi ng environment. A thick sea air; a Japanese crane fl ies overhead as you and your SPORTS extremes experienced by places like the Eastern United friends laugh hysterically at each other’s jokes. This scene States. wetsuit is advisable. While these cold winds bring unbearable cold to the majority of Japan, Okinawa and the Southern has become all too common for me but now, after four Islands remain refreshingly cool throughout the winter. Sea years, my time here is coming to an end. It’s been swell, Summer in Japan starts off wet and humid with a Japan. relentless rainy season. Water temperatures in the southern temperatures in these sub-tropical reefs hover around 18°C half of the country become very warm. During this time while air temperatures rarely fall below 10°C. However, even northerly continental cold fronts and southerly subtropical in the south the winds can feel bitterly cold. As an after-surf warm fronts converge over the Japanese archipelago. This treat for braving the cold many Japanese surfers bring along creates heavy moisture and strong winds. When the storms hot water and big plastic tubs, indulging in a hot bath in the originate in the Sea of Japan good moderate period swell parking lot while checking out the waves. can ignite southwest Kyushu, and sometimes Shikoku and Honshu. During late summer, typhoons start to develop in My fondest memories of winter are the cold, sometimes the Pacifi c Ocean. Typhoons are for surfers in Japan what snowy, winter storms and their accompanying Northwest monsoon rains are for starving farmers in arid fl ood plains swells. On an average of once a year these storms generate —they bring bounty and/or destruction. great waves in the East China Sea. If local wind conditions are right, there can be beautiful, glassy, head high conditions. The warm, clear, blue water can feel deceivingly tropical if you can forget about the bitter air.

Jessica Perl has been getting into the island-life grove water stations appeared fairly frequently throughout the YORON ISLAND down Kagoshima way. Yet, she always fi nds time to actively race, though you must make sure you’re actually getting explore her environs - by ferry and foot. She headed down water and not yusen, the local alcoholic beverage made HALF MARATHON to the most southern island of Kagoshima Prefecture’s from sugar cane. The Yoron people do love to have a good archipelago for the Yoron Island Half Marathon on March time; even when running competitively! rd this3 year. Here she offers her insights and advice about taking on that 21.1 kilometer circuit—around an idyllic In the evening, after the race, there is a party where you RUNNING island brimming with culture and cheer—as well as beauty can mingle with the locals, dance to traditional island and beer! Perhaps you’ll also consider breaking off from music, sample some yusen, and just have a good time the mainland for your next marathon challenge. before catching your fl ight or ferry the next day. THE I fi nished with a time of 1 hour and 59 minutes and I came I haven’t been to many places in Japan yet but, even so, I feel you won’t fi nd a more gracious welcome than the one in 3rd out of women in my age group, and 16th out of all visitors received when they arrived to Yoron the weekend the women who ran the half. I fi gured that earned me the SCENIC of the race. After getting off the ferry, everyone was given beer and various fried things I indulged in after the race. a small bag of sand with a hand-written note from the For my previous half marathon, I trained for 10 weeks, but students of Yoron wishing the participants luck in their this time round, I was only able to train for eight. I felt it races. The note also offered advice to runners; instructing was adequate. The other alternative is to do no training ROUTE them to look at the ocean when they felt tired, as its beauty at all, which, I was surprised to fi nd, was the case with Jessica Perl would enable them to keep going. 24 many of the Japanese people I spoke with, some of whom For the majority of the course, you have breath-taking views were running the FULL marathon! So don’t let the issue of of the sea, and these certainly helped to keep me going. training deter you. Those with no training made it through SPORTS You also run through neighborhoods where locals stand alive! (Well.....mostly....) on the side of the road with their family and friends, old Whether it’s your fi rst or fi ftieth marathon, I defi nitely and young, as well as their pets (one guy had a goat!) and recommend making the trip down to southern Japan to cheer you on by banging frying pans, playing traditional run the Yoron half (or full!) marathon. drums and shamisens, and dancing eisa. Their unique encouragement and enthusiasm was almost enough to southern Kagoshima Prefecture. Jessica Perl is a 1st Year American ALT on Okinoerabu, an island in distract me from the many uphill sections—almost. Luckily, There are over 30,000 pictures with the hashtag “mtfuji” the second station long before the Edo period. Religious immortalizing Mount Fuji’s iconic symmetry on Instagram. sects like Shugendo and Fujiko were born here, and A “Mt Fuji” search on Flickr will bring up over 140,000 centered their spiritual practices on climbing the mountain. images. Today, pilgrims devote themselves to annual climbs. At the northern base, a sengen shrine marks the entrance to the By Jordan Ozaki Those who climb this sleeping volcanic giant to the top mountain. It’s one of thousands of sengen shrines in Japan usually bask in the rising sun, admiring the lush land 3,776 paying homage to Mt. Fuji’s deity, Konohana Sakuya Hime. meters below. However, Fujieda ALT Peter Stanton felt as if According to legend, Konohana Sakuya birthed a son in he had “cheated” when he started climbing from the fi fth the fi re of Mt. Fuji, and has since received offerings to station—the usual starting place. Almost a year after he prevent volcanic eruptions and help with easy childbirth. fi rst scaled Fuji, he came across the Oxfam International Volunteer Group’s challenge to climb Fuji from the base Mt. Fuji remains a national treasure, a cultivator of to the top, a yearly climbing event called Sea-to-Summit. tradition, and a sacred destination. For Stanton, climbing Oxfam is a federation of 14 coordinating organizations from the sea represented completion, beauty, and self- that organize events to raise money for impoverished improvement, as well as “a chance to get out of the offi ce nations. Stanton is no stranger to Oxfam events that put or mall and back to a natural and fulfi lling existence.” At physical strength to the test. Last year, in the “Yamathon” the summit, his exhausted group took out seawater they he walked the 40 km Yamanote line, visiting all 29 stations had collected at the bottom and poured it out on top of TO THE TO THE in under 12 hours. Japan’s highest peak, to run back down to the sea.

25 SUMMIT Stanton’s second Fuji journey began at sea level on For more information on the ultimate Fuji climb, visit: sea- Tagonoura Beach in Fuji City. It was an 11-hour hike to to-summit.org the fi fth station. The entire journey took a harrowing 22 CULTURE hours. Fellow climber Shizuoka ALT Christopher Leinonen claimed that he “moved like an arthritic 90 year old” for JordanMt. Fuji is froma 2nd yearthe sea, ALT but in endedShizuoka up City.sunbathing She once on theattempted beach instead.to climb a week following the climb. By climbing Fuji in its entirety, they took part in a centuries-old tradition; long before buses and cars and the fi fth station, climbers ascended the mountain as a spiritual practice, paying respect at shrines peppered along the slopes.

The impressive stature of Mt. Fuji, the beauty of its surroundings, and the metaphor of climbing, are well suited to Shinto and Buddhist ideology. Shinto incorporates nature spirits of (kami) in its practices, while

FROM THE SEA FROM THE a key aspect of Buddhism is centered on pilgrimage to cultivate spiritual discipline.

A three-year excavation conducted in Yamanashi revealed that religious sites may have existed near A heap of round bodies squirms and squeals as the chilly naked girls too? How much could you see down there?’ night air descends upon it. Its outer rim of pale exposed Perhaps this can be explained by the idiosyncratic nature fl esh shudders in the lantern light like an infl ated, over- of my students; or the social demographic to which they plucked chicken. Rolling down the streets, it passes crowds belong. But I couldn’t help notice how very stark the Heenali Patel of people who shuffl e along under the shadows of rickety difference seemed between the traditional image that buildings, clutching steaming buns and sticks that drip most foreigners have of Japanese nudity, and the reality with jammy sauce. Buttocks jiggle; arms fl ail; loincloths lodged comfortably in the crevices of my students’ brains. fl ash like crumpled smiles into the dark.... So when did this shift begin? Unsurprisingly, the clash No, this isn’t a scene from a Heironymous Bosch painting. between modern nudity in Japan and its traditional It is, in fact, the somewhat less infernal Hadaka Matsuri, or counterpart gleans much of its raison d’etre from politics. Naked Man Festival. Yes, that’s right, a festival for hoards Towards the end of the 19th century, the Japanese of Japanese men to brave freezing temperatures in barely government banned public nudity as a means of appearing more than their birthday suits. more ‘civilised’ to the West, with the intent of repealing a series of unequal political treaties. What eventually Though such a scene is a commodity for western folk like followed was a burgeoning pornography industry and myself, the Naked Man Festival has a long tradition in a new sexual attitude towards the human body to go

THE NAKED TRUTH: THE NAKED TRUTH: Japan, with a deep well of symbolism that goes beyond with it. As Pink Japan eloquently puts it: ‘Once the naked the surface of its wrinkled hindquarters. And if one were to body had been legislated against and thus ceased to be fl ip through a Japanese history book, references to nudity commonplace, it took on an erotic and mystifi ed meaning.’ 26 would come hard and fast- from images of feudal peasants (Source: http://www.japanvisitor.com/pink-japan/nudity- working fi elds unclothed, to public baths peppered with in-japan) naked bodies. Historically, it is clothing that has traditionally CULTURE suggested sexuality in Japan—a sumptuously dressed Looking around, it certainly seems like recent generations woman has tended to hold more erotic sway than a bare have been exposed to nudity in a sexual context far more one. In contrast, when one imagines a loin-clothed sumo than the generations that came before them. Anime shows wrestler, it is unlikely to be within a sexual frame of mind. abound with top-heavy women dressed in garments the size of miniature tea towels; pachinko parlour entrances Nudity in Japan has been unlinked to sexuality, and the norm are festooned with posters of tightly equipped characters for centuries- but does this really continue to be the case for smiling down from awkward angles; even the uniforms the younger generation of Japanese, brought up - at least in worn by most high school girls are becoming borderline part - on Western food, trends and commercialism? How has fetish costumes. NUDITY IN JAPAN their perception of nudity started to change, if at all? The graph below, comparing the cumulative frequencies An investigation on how the Japanese interpretation of of ‘Experience of Sexual Arousal’ among Japanese youths nudity is changing inevitably involves a discussion about in 1987 and 1993 illustrates that more recent generations shifting sexual perceptions. My fi rst encounter of this are becoming sexualised at a younger age, at least in part stemmed from the classroom. Having described my recent because of an increase in exposure to the naked body in THE RISE OF VIRTUAL VIRTUAL THE RISE OF cultural escapades at the Naked Man Festival to a class of popular culture. fourteen year olds, the instant reaction was ‘were there And yet, despite an increase in exposure to sexually body is being instrumentalised a great deal more than the ‘While there is much information related to sex and sexual charged nude imagery, Japan remains one of the least nude body itself. behaviours on television and in comic books, exposure to sexually active countries in the world. According to SSL (Source: http://www.japanfocus.org/-debbie-notkin/3230) this information is not suffi cient when they have to use it International PLC (the makers of Durex condoms), Japanese on their own, cognitively and affectively...’ people aged 16 to 55 have sex around 36 times a year Changes in perceptions of nudity are contributing to a (Source: http://www2.hu-berlin.de/sexology/GESUND/ARCHIV/ on average, compared to the world average of 97 times a profound change in the way young Japanese people are IES/JAPAN) year. Furthermore, a government survey in 2010 revealed identifying with the human body and their own sexualities. that one third of Japanese males aged 16 to 19 are not To many of the younger generation, intimacy is becoming How is this likely to have an impact on the future society interested in, or even feel an aversion towards sex- double less appealing. Referring to an increase in boys’ fascination of Japan? Already we can see the beginnings of a society the fi gure of 2008. with virtual online girls, a Japanese public health offi cial where an ageing population has become a growing (Source: http://factsanddetails.com/japan.php?itemid=675) reasoned, ‘They don’t want to get hurt [by being duped burden on younger generations that refuse to go forth and by human girls]. So they never advance past the 2-D multiply. But just as disturbing is the mental impact the The Japanese concept of the body has often been described world.’ How has their perception of sexuality and the body loss of the naked body in its actuality is having on the 27 as having fewer boundaries and substantiality than its become so distorted? Perhaps it is down to the lifestyle Japanese. Fuelled by a society where nudity is becoming Western counterpart. As pointed out in Japan Focus, whilst they are encouraged to lead. In contemporary Japan, less and less real, and more and more virtual, children are the Western body is often seen as an opaque, defi nitely many children do not have time for quality human and being introduced to a world of ‘fan service’ pornography, CULTURE edged mass, the Japanese have tended to view the body as physical contact. Occupied with extra-curricular activities, fetishisms of every shape and form, and other methods of ‘a form or husk, which the wind can literally pass through’. training programmes and juku, leisure time often revolves arousal that nullify the need for physical human contact. This particular distinction between Western and Japanese around passive activity like playing video games, watching Are we seeing the rise of a new kind of mass mentality culture seems to be becoming less and less the case. Bodies TV and, in general, forming deeper relationships with that is likely to favour Japanese society? Possibly, though are turning into concrete forms, more hard-wired to their 2-D fi gureheads than with real ones. What follows is a I doubt it. Perhaps it is time to re-evaluate the way in changing role in society as a visual and sexual stimulant. connection with the human body that is rooted on the which the naked body is represented before it is too late. Against the backdrop of a growing pornography industry screen, distorted and infl exible. As explained in a sexual Perhaps it is time for the Japanese to re-prioritise reality. and decreasing sexual activity, the appearance of the nude study on Japan conducted by the University of Berlin, And perhaps, on a wholly practical level, it is time to put the ‘together’ back into ‘in the altogether’. a delicious box of chocolate biscuits. And quite what was, some menus go out of their way to turn over more corporate message the kitchen towel brand ‘Naïve Lady’ stomachs than the average yakitori joint... assorted raw LET’S wants their customers to take from the product is unclear. guts and skewered uterus, anyone? For a nation that developed the beautifully economical So, as English teachers, should we be on a mission to haiku form, it’s perhaps surprising that even the most correct these mistakes and eradicate ‘Engrish’? No. simple of ideas can sometimes generate a rambling Instead, perhaps we should heed the words spotted on STUDYING commentary in English which makes War and Peace look the shrink wrap of a particular brand of toilet seat cover: like a birthday card. Some of the best gems are found “Some people are developed of humor. Don’t be cross on omiyage biscuits, which often sport inappropriately with me for my mistake. Accuracy does not consist with fl uffy prose to describe the usual disappointing mixture of fl uency”. Indeed. ENGRISH! refi ned sugar and hydrogenated fats that you’re compelled Chris Barstow to munch with gratitude as a memento of your co-worker’s Chris Barstow is a second year ALT in Yamagata Prefecture. He will be trip to Nagoya. spending the rest of his time in Japan celebrating toast and facing the Many people arriving in Japan for the fi rst time are future… staggered by the amount of English that is visible on signs Clothes are also prone to displaying some rather over- and products up and down the country, making it more elaborate examples of the English language. If an accessible to the helpless foreign visitor. However, written Elementary school student is wearing a sweatshirt, the English can sometimes be rather unforgiving of mistakes, chances are that it will contain a profound philosophical sound-bite in mangled English. Some of my favourite 28 and any attempt to translate an idea containing even the subtlest spelling error or contextual misunderstanding can nuggets of garment wisdom include ‘huggable—slightly mean the difference between communicative perfection bitter’, ‘depression is not the answer’ and ‘celebrate toast—facing the future’. And whichever brilliant mind CULTURE and unintentionally hilarious ‘Engrish’ clanger. thought up ‘delicious Felicity - merging feeling’ deserves Just as car-makers Ford found out when they tried to market some kind of prize. their Pinto (“small penis” in Portuguese) to Brazilians, branding your product in a language without regard to Even when language has been spelt correctly and used in its linguistic nuances can be a recipe the right context, it can still throw up for disaster. Japanese supermarkets some unintentional awkwardness. As are fi lled with products that have been purveyors of delicacies such as haggis, misguidedly monikered. For example, black pudding and sweetbreads are fully processed meat manufacturers should aware, an ambiguous product name can perhaps have thought twice before often disguise the unappetising sounding launching their ‘Homo sausage’ into mish-mash of animal innards which stores nationwide. Similarly, ‘Pungency’ make up its content. Although most of makes people think ‘musty’ rather than us have probably experienced that enkai ‘milk tea’, whilst ‘Crunky Ball Nude’ moment where a colleague tells you conjures up images of ointments that the salty, opaque, gelatinous morsel and medical pamphlets rather than that just passed your lips wasn’t the animal/vegetable/mineral you thought it The last wave of video game consoles hit the markets The next few months will be telling, but so far Sony’s new back in 2006, so after seven long years, it’s time for a new wunderbox has grabbed my attention the most. Just so generation. This year will see all the challengers lined up long as the new controller’s “share” button doesn’t turn to square off, with the big names dropping at the same my Facebook feed into a cringe-fest of gaming bravado time. We talked to members of the video-game group and video spam… Steven Thompson Gamers in Fukushima, and asked them to measure up the competition fi ghting for your dollars (or yennies) this year. Nintendo WiiU – Mary Effl er

The only console on the list already released, the WiiU has Sony Playstation 4 – Phil Kendall proven itself to be every bit as fun as its predecessor, but Although we’re still too deep in rumour and speculation can it stand up to the powerful systems set to compete to be calling dead certs, I’m fi nding myself increasingly this year? tempted to scrawl Sony’s name on the top of my betting slip for the next-gen race. Nintendo has the benefi t of a head start, and a famously loyal fanbase built over many years thanks to reliably great With most major releases appearing on multiple platforms, iterations on its key franchises like Zelda and Mario. While this generation’s winner will not be decided by processing the Wii marked a radical departure from the traditional speeds alone, but by the quality of services available. PS4 console formula that Microsoft and Sony pursued, the is less about the box beneath your TV and more about WiiU feels more like a natural evolution of the Wii. The

THE CONSOLE WARS: THE CONSOLE WARS: the stuff in the sky, making PlayStation 4 games playable addition of a big gamepad controller with a touchscreen 29 even before they’re fully downloaded and providing access takes games outside the TV and provides opportunity for to your games, TV, movies, and music via PSVita, tablets, unique gaming that can’t be found on traditional consoles and even other people’s machines through Gaikai’s cloud- or PCs. Some games can be played on just the gamepad, ENTERTAINMENT based gaming service. making the system ultra portable, or freeing up the living room TV, which could prove invaluable for gamers with Already described as “impressive” by a number of families. It’s also a surprisingly good, interactive universal developers, the PS4’s hardware is thought to be technically media remote. similar to that of a typical gaming PC, with the inclusion of 8GB of RAM in particular being applauded. Already However, Nintendo has always struggled with online familiar with similar hardware, developers will be able features, lacking the robust community of either Sony or OF VIDEO GAME TECH to hit the ground running, which means more games in Microsoft, and the WiiU is barely as powerful as the last greaterShapes variety. generation of consoles. In a few years, the differences in performance between the WiiU and the new systems will The PS3 has gradually become a great place for indie titles be remarkable, and is already easily seen on WiiU versions with games like Journey, The Unfi nished Swan, Sound of PS3 and 360 games. and Gaucamelee! to name but a few. With Sony aggressively approaching independent developers, PS4 is If Nintendo is to compete in this coming generation, they’ll shaping up to be something of a haven for games made need to stick with what made the Wii successful: affordable, by the little guy. easy-to-use, full of interactive and interesting gameplay, and

2013’S BURGEONING BATTLE BATTLE 2013’S BURGEONING broad appeal to more than just ‘hardcore’ gamers.

Microsoft’s New Console – Introducing the Steam Box, Valve’s entry into the console Ouya’s games are directly-provided by developers, with hardware market. little interference or publishing from Ouya itself. The only Steven Thompson requirement being that they are “free-to-play.” Ouya also Really nothing is solidly known about the next iteration of The fi rst thing that you need to know is that the term boasts plans to offer non-gaming apps like popular media the Xbox console, not even its name. Microsoft will hold an “Steam Box” actually refers to two different things. The center XBMC and internet radio. Ouya also features native event in May to talk about the new box, but for now, let’s fi rst is the Steam Box as a concept - a cheap, barebones PC support for retro games via software emulators. However, indulge in some rampant speculation. Talk points to a very built around Valve’s Steam PC platform, utilizing its new lofty goals and actual execution can differ once a product powerful console sold cheap with a subscription (much like “Big Picture Mode” to play your PC games on your living is released, and Ouya’s starting to get into the hands of how smartphones are sold with contracts). While much of room TV. The second is Valve’s own, offi cial home console. those who funded it on Kickstarter. this is likely to happen, we won’t know until we see it. We know surprisingly little about the later. We do know that Ouya as it is now is still in its early stages, with many of its The hottest of the hot-button issues regards whether it will run on a Linux-based operating system, it will have features being tested by the community. Early impressions or not the console will require an “always-on” internet access to the entire Steam library of games and it will be are that the interface is rough and the games are few in connection. There’s lots of evidence pointing towards this comparable to a mid-level gaming PC. Hardcore PC gamers number. Ouya seems to be listening, and updates frequently being the case. An “always-on” connection could point to will see little use in the Steam Box, opting to just build their on their progress and plans via every type of social media a lot of things, including preventing the use of preowned own rigs, but for console gamers that are enticed by PC out there. With two months to go before their big public games and a download-only console without a disc drive. gaming, but fi nd the concept of building and maintaining release, Ouya has a lot of potential to carve a niche in the If an active internet connection is required to play games their own PC daunting, the Steam Box is perfect. gaming market, and a lot of work ahead. on the system, without providing any benefi t to users, Microsoft could have trouble getting people on board. Valve is so confi dent in its new box that it doesn’t even 30 Such a bold move also separates it from the PS4, which is see Sony, Nintendo or Microsoft as a threat, stating that Steven Thompson is a second-year ALT in Fukushima prefecture. He set to release at the same time. Apple, with its iOS platform, are the ones to watch out for. created the group Gamers in Fukushima so he could fi nd great people But, these are bold words for Valve, considering the price to play great games with and make them do research and write articles ENTERTAINMENT for him. Microsoft’s Xbox Live service provided access to more than and specs of its console have yet to be revealed. Personally, just games via services like Netfl ix and Hulu. With how I’m estimating around $500 for a system slightly more much Microsoft has put into developing SmartGlass (which powerful than a PS4. connected the 360 to every phone, tablet, and PC it could fi nd) and Kinect motions controls (rumored to be bundled with every new console as shiny new Kinect 2.0), it’s not hard to imagine that Microsoft’s new console is hoping to Ouya – Steven Thompson be the main box sitting under your TV. The Kickstarter success story is setting its sights on a piece of the console market alongside the well-established major players Sony, Microsoft, and Nintendo. Ouya is an Android- Valve SteamBox – Steven Bogos based console, selling for $99 USD when it hits shelves in The last two console generations have been dominated June. Ouya’s stated goal is to bring mobile-style gaming by three companies: Microsoft, Sony, and Nintendo. Valve, to your living room TV on a platform that is transparently creators of Half-Life, Portal and the Steam platform for PC open and easily modifi able. Don’t expect a powerhouse in games have decided that this time around, they want a line with a high-end PC though; think more in terms of a piece of the action. powerful tablet, with its full resources dedicated to games.

STYLE STRONG: HAIR TODAY, GONE TOMORROW Kathryn Strong

Let’s talk hair. Let’s talk hair and summer. Up on the Secondly, buns look just as professional in the back or top main islands, where most of you are, you still have a few of your head as they do when they’re low which, once more blessed months of breezy spring. But down here again, means that they’ll be cooler. in Okinawa, summer is imminent. I’m already suffering sunburn; my shorts and sundresses are back in the clothing The French Braid: A step up from the bun in effort and also rotation; my fl ip-fl ops are perpetually thrown haphazardly in hair control, a French braid can be used to keep all the in my genkan. And my hair, my hair that in the winter smaller hairs in check. Even with my hair (which has always takes just the barest coaxing to fall straight and sleek to had the tendency to form a halo of little curls around my my shoulders, my hair has reverted back to all of its bad face during times of high humidity), if I pull the braid tight enough and apply pins liberally, I fi nd a French braid to be 31 summer habits. My bangs curl in all different directions, no matter how many times I straighten them. Sweat glues effective. I like to twist the end into a small bun to keep them to my forehead, while the rest is plastered to the everything off of my neck and as far away from my face as possible. Unfortunately, braiding hair takes time. Although FASHION back of my neck. It’s constantly frizzy and always looks dirty. Wearing it down is not an option. Let’s look at a it’s a solution, the time is prohibitive, which leaves me with few options for dealing with our hair during the heat and one fi nal option. humidity of Japanese summers. Cutting It Off: That’s right, this next month I’m planning The Ponytail: The ponytail is a tried and true stand-by on cutting all my hair off. When I was little, a close family which is also remarkably versatile. Wear it high on your friend was diagnosed with cancer. Around that time, I fi rst head for a perky youthful look or swept back at the nape heard of “Locks For Love,” a program where if one’s hair of your neck for a more professional look. You can choose is long enough, one can get it cut and donate it to be to slick everything back or leave a parting, and you can use made into wigs for people undergoing chemotherapy. I’ve any number of accessories. The ponytail is almost endlessly always been interested in the program, but due to chlorine variable. It’s my go-to for transition seasons. Unfortunately, damage and caprice, I’ve never had the ten inches of hair in the heat of the summer, I’ve found that no number of required to donate. Until now. So in just a few weeks, pins can keep all my little wispy hairs in order. during Golden Week, I will be traveling back to the United States for my little brother’s graduation and I’ll be cutting The Bun: The barest step up from the ponytail, there are my hair. I’ll let you know how it goes! a few advantages of the bun. Firstly, buns allow you to Kathryn is a 2nd year ALT in beautiful Okinawa. Life on island has led to further restrain your hair, pulling it even further off your her developing an acute fear of winter and the opinion that the phrase neck to keep you cooler and hide any sweat or stringiness. “formal bikini” is not necessarily an oxymoron. We could both wax lyrical about the many wonders of fi nally discovered some fairly good substitutes available in REMOTELY FASHION: Japan: boys carrying their girlfriends’ handbags (and the U.S., Canada and the U.K. that will ensure your eyes looking cuter with them); prancing around Harajuku for remain suitably feline, even when you’re coping with the hours on end without ever seeming to feel tired, to name trauma of reverse culture shock. EYES ON but a couple. It goes without saying that we both miss living there and can spend hour upon hour reminiscing, Physician’s Formula EyeBooster 2-in-1 Lash like a couple of obaachans, about the good old days. But Boosting Eyeliner and Serum THE PRIZE when feeling homesick for our second home, it is possible This remarkable eyeliner pen has a beautifully precise brush tip and uses a “high-tech Japanese formula” that Siobhan Sullivan, Miriam Bouteba toYama put Arashi on, head down to the Japan Centre on Regent Street, pick up Fruits magazine to appease our teary eyes is smudge-resistant. The ink dries almost immediately to and munch on Takenoko no Sato (oh yes, we come down leave your eyes looking perfect. As if that weren’t enough, Japanese liquid eyeliners on the left feature really quite fi rmly on that side of this fence, no Kinoko no it also contains a lash-boosting serum. Available in most a brush-tip pen, while liners in the West usually U.S. chemists, it retails at $10.95. have a sponge-tip like the one on the right. for us, thank you very much) to satisfy our growling tummies. And yet, call us vain, call us shallow, but the one Geisha Ink thing we had not been able to fi nd in the UK was a suitable There is a gel-like quality to the quick-drying ink, it fl ows replacement for decent liquid eyeliner. easily, and most importantly, it has the fi ne-point brush Having heard horror stories of whitening product being in pen. The price is the only downside. At $32CDN, it is more almost everything, we never imagined that we would have of an investment than the other choices, but it will last for such an intense love affair with makeup in Japan. Despite months. Available online and at numerous makeup shops 32 the number of covetable Japanese brands, it was with some across Canada. trepidation that we approached the makeup counters in DHC Eyeliner On the left: Our favorite Japanese eyeliner by “Wants” (bleached faces with our tanned necks was not a Recently launched in the U.K, we have high hopes that this FASHION La Rose De Versailles, available in most Japanese look that either of us was eager to experiment with), but Japanese brand will fi ll the aching void. It is reasonably makeup shops and drugstores. once we overcame our initial resistance, we were like over- priced at £16 and available online and at Harvey Nichols. On the right: ‘Blink’ by Barry M, a popular U.K. excited children in a particularly wonderful sweet shop; the eyeliner that unfortunately cannot compete with glitter, the colours, the PACKAGING! It was all so fantastic! We must stress that original is best, and if you are leaving the terrifi c qualities of Japanese eyeliner. this summer, fi ll your suitcases and stuff your bras with However, it did take us some time to embrace the eyeliner them! Smuggle as many eyeliners out of the country as you pens. Makeup that would stay on for 24 hours always possibly can. Your friends back home will thank you – if seemed more like a threat than a promise. But once we you can bear to part with them, that is. had dipped a toe in that inky black pond, we were hooked. Not only is the colour more intense than UK liners, but the precision of the fi ne-tipped brushes is also unparalleled. Miriam and Siobhan were ALTs in Hiroshima. They met at a picnic and Although we have managed to fi nd a pen-style applicator have been friends since the moment they realised that they shared a which is still relatively easy to use, the tip is a sponge and mutual love of clumpy shoes and all things kawaii. This love has been not a brush. A minor deviation you might think, but for the harnessed into their fashion blog, http://remotelyfashion.blogspot. Physician’s Formula 2-in1 eyeliner pen is remarkably similar naturally clumsy (seriously, falling over while standing still co.uk/. They can usually be found communicating in a pitch that even to Japanese eyeliner pens and a happens all too frequently), it can make all the difference dogs struggle to register. precise cat-eye liner look can be in the world. After over a year of searching, we have created easily. work beautifully with vividly colored accessories, such as REMOTELY FASHION: neons and cobalt, and clothing with clean lines. One-part clunky and other part cheeky, what’s so great about this trend is that it gives our EXPORTING feet a welcome break. We have always commended the efforts STYLES of Japanese women to Siobhan Sullivan, Miriam Bouteba remain gazelle-like at all times by wearing heels no matter the There is a fashion myth that trends which debut in A fashionable combination of pastels and color-blocking are featured on this situation (a hike up Mt. Japan take years before they trickle down to the fashion knit sweater from the up-and-coming Japanese fashion line, ‘ilu098’ (http:// Misen? No problem.) www.ilu098.com). consciousness of the rest of the world. This myth is in fact a But now it’s time to This DIY Japanese nail-art inspired manicure was truth, and those of us lucky enough to have lived in Japan have some yennies to spend before you leave Japan, we take a tip from our achieved with a ‘water-marbling’ technique and a may have a sartorial advantage when we return to our recommend buying some unique pastel pieces as they’re fashionable Japanese lot of patience. home countries. a strong trend this season. And if you’re brave, take it to sisters and embrace the head too! height without stress. We recommend visiting the funky Pastels boutique ‘Nadia Flores en el Corazon’ (http://nadia.jp) in Starting from head to toe, we are now seeing a huge Ear Jewelry Harajuku to snap up your own pair. 33 trend in pastel hair colors in the U.K. Not just a look for But not everything is all fl uffy pastel. Interesting punk- gothic lovers, the average young person is embracing inspired pieces are also on trend. Fancy ear jewelry such Nail Art utterly unnatural shades in lilac, candy-fl oss pink, or as ear cuffs, faux gauges, ear chains and spiked studs are Lastly, a trend that even the fashion-uninitiated cannot FASHION seafoam green. Pop into your local English drugstore and available now at all the high street shops. However, we ignore while living in Japan is the amazing nail art that you can even purchase box remember back in 2010 when we stumbled upon an odd- Japanese women wear. Nail art knows no limits in Japan, dye kits catered specifi cally looking over-the-ear cuff in a Hiroshima Shareo boutique. and pretty much any design can be requested (at a cost of to the pastel-colored hair Make sure to rock these cuffs with a deep-side part and 7500 yen and upwards!). Our favorite looks while in Japan market. We can’t help but your hair pushed to one side in order to properly show it were 3D stickers, glitter gradients and pearls. Fortunately, say, “Harajuku did it fi rst!” off. We also observed many stylish Japanese boys wearing the nail art obsession has reached us in England and one Harajuku fashionistas have spike or hoop earrings; so, don’t let your gender limit your can request gel nails at salons or purchase nail art kits been rocking the trend for a ear ornaments. at high street shops. A dream not realized while living while now, and usually wear in Japan was a gel nail art manicure at Malva Nail in head-to-toe pastel clothing ‘Flatforms’ Shinujuku (http://ameblo.jp/malva-nail2), where you can and accessories to match. The next trend, which we spotted nearly a year ago in receive spectacular custom designs. However, it gives us a Tokyo, is an edgy style that will elevate your height and reason to return to one of the most fashionable countries And indeed, the pastel trend your look: the futuristic ‘fl atform’ shoe. Platform shoes are in the world and fi nd out what will be coming our way is not only limited to hair a trend that regularly ebbs and fl ows between seasons, next season! The latest L’Oreal at-home in the U.K. but also attire, but the unique ‘fl atform’ adaptation is what is taking off hair dye kit in ‘Pastel Pink especially with summer Miriam and Siobhan were ALTs in Hiroshima. They met at a picnic and have Panther’ at a Boots Pharmacy slowly in the west. What’s hot are all-white or all-black been friends since the moment they realised that they shared a mutual love in England. L’Oreal also offers on the horizon. If you fl atforms in either a lace-up style or sandal format. They of clumpy shoes and all things kawaii. This love has been harnessed into their shades in lilac and peach. fashion blog, http://remotelyfashion.blogspot.co.uk/. They can usually be found communicating in a pitch that even dogs struggle to register. JAPAN’S BIG PICKLE Xan Wetherall

Pop quiz! Name something you almost always fi nd at a is a recipe with a legacy stretching back to a Zen temple Japanese meal... that isn’t rice. Got it? Give up? If you said in the 17th century. But there’s another pickle with an “pickles”, give yourself a pat on the back. Japanese pickles, older history still: the infamous umeboshi pickled plum is or tsukemono as they’re more commonly referred to, are mentioned in medicinal documentation as far back as the so ubiquitous at mealtime in Japan, it’s easy to overlook 10th century. Before their era of pickle praise, umeboshi them. But there they are, every meal of the day: crunchy, were prized as Japan’s version of the cure-all, something yellow takuan radish pickles in the morning with piping that sometimes still holds true: while on a homestay, I was hot rice, a bright red umeboshi pickled plum in lunchbox, told by my host-grandmother that if I ever got a headache, and a cute little pile of fukujinzuke mixed veggie pickles I should hold umeboshi to my temples, and keep them next to your evening curry set. there until the pain was alleviated!

Tsukemono come in all shapes and forms, from the simple So, why do we still eat pickles with every Japanese meal? salt-cured shiozuke, to the careful slicing, preparation, Why is this humble side dish such a common denominator, 34 and preservation of Kyoto’s famous senmaizuke. All over even now? The importance of tsukemono lies in the realm of Japan, people have their own unique and special way of what we might call “home cooking” in English. In the tight preserving their produce. But why the pickle popularity? times of the post-war period, families began to produce FOOD The answer lies in Japan’s own history and culture. With their own pickles, rather than buying them, making it a most arable land dedicated to rice production, vegetables very personal act. So, in addition to the traditional variable were sparsely grown. Unlike rice, once the veggies were off of extra nutrition, pickles became a kind of comfort food. the vine, they started to go bad, and didn’t last through the In reference to the connection between the Japanese meal colder months—when nutrition-starved families needed and tsukemono, the anthropologist Naomichi Ishige went them most. The solution to this mealtime problem was so far as to cite the French proverb “A meal without cheese simple: pickle it! Salt and vinegar aren’t the only preserving is like a one-eyed beauty.” That is, without the pickles, the agents in the Japanese pickle markets, either: it’s common meal is lacking. Love them or hate them, with more than to see varieties like miso paste pickles (misozuke), rice bran 1000 years of history, these meal staples certainly aren’t pickles (nukazuke), and even pickles made from the lees of going away anytime soon. Dig in, and see how many sake (kasuzuke). varieties you can fi nd! infl uenza strains, eating green vegetables into extinction, and singing When it comes to varieties, however, some pickles are Xanmushroom-related Wetherall is a songs.3rd-year Ask Fukushima her about freshALT seawho urchin! enjoys collecting inevitably more famous than others. Takuanzuke, the bright yellow daikon radish pickle, for example, is identifi able with just a glance. Made from whole daikon radishes dried in the sun then pickled in rice lees, their crisp, crunchy texture You excitedly snap a picture of the plate of curry rice on your various schools in one area. For the next few decades, tray and hastily upload it to Instagram to show off to your lunches were bread based, often serving age-pan (fried friends. You’ve scored the lunch jackpot! Or perhaps you bread) with various stews and curries. Rice-centered meals can more easily recall the horror you experienced slicing were not introduced until 1976! Today, there is one school

Ariane Bobiash into a piece of fi sh only to discover its pregnant state. nutritionist for every three schools in Japan, with some Whether you look forward to lunch time or wish you could schools enjoying a full-time on-site nutritionist. The menus sneak away to eat out like your high school ALT friends must meet the city or municipality-approved per-meal cost do, the ubiquitous Japanese lunch programme is a crucial target (usually between 250 and 300 yen), nutritional component of many a JET’s workdays and, of course, for guidelines, and be appealing to students. As long as the almost every Japanese school student up until the end of appropriate caloric content and nutritional profi le is met, junior high school. School lunch, however, is eaten around kitchens are free to source their food from wherever they the world, and recent trends in other countries make wish. This allows locally grown foods to be fed to students. Japan’s school lunch, or kyushoku, especially fascinating. In 1960, the government founded the ‘Japan School Kyushoku seems to be a source of controversy amongst Lunch Research and Reform Association’ whose job was JETs, some asserting it’s a balanced, tasty meal much to improve the health of school children via kyushoku and healthier than what they grew up eating for lunch in their to increase nutritional awareness. Every nutritional aspect home countries, others vehemently claiming to get the of each meal is carefully monitored, with every meal worst food in their prefecture. Love it or hate it, kyushoku containing ’33% of daily calories, 50% of recommended is undeniably a fascinating and unique aspect of Japanese daily intake of calcium and 40% recommended daily 35 educational institutions that has been through a few intake of protein, vitamins, and minerals’. Local ingredients interesting changes since its conception. are used whenever possible. While making school lunch announcements, children will often explain exactly where FOOD The fi rstkyushoku was reportedly served in 1889 in the ingredients came from and which vitamins and Yamagata prefecture, consisting of onigiri, salted fi sh, and minerals they contain! This of course teaches children pickled vegetables. However, nation-wide kyushoku did about nutrition while also giving them the knowledge not exist until after the Second World War, though the food of what types of food are harvested in the area. Experts SHOULD TAKE NOTICE SHOULD TAKE wasn’t quite the same as today. Immediately post-war, in Japan have even credited the school lunch system for when Japan’s landscapes were in a shambles and large- maintaining Japanese food culture and waistlines trim in scale agriculture was still impossible, there was a heavy an increasingly convenience food-oriented society. This reliance on US military-provided food products such as being said, the kyushoku system is certainly not perfect. powdered milk and canned goods. The US also brought It is not prepared for children with allergies or special surplus American wheat to the country, making bread the dietary requirements in mind, something that should be of staple carbohydrate for lunch meals. When US occupation concern due to the rising number of children with allergies was over, Japan continued to import surplus American in Japan. wheat to use for kyushoku bread. AND WHY OTHER COUNTRIES AND WHY OTHER In spite of this, the content of Japanese school lunch meals In 1954, the ‘School Lunch Law’ was passed, which added as well as the way they are served have been sources of junior high schools to the scheme. Programs were set up awe at various times around the world. Especially with the THE EVOLUTION OF KYUSHOKU, OF KYUSHOKU, THE EVOLUTION around the country, some schools having food cooked on increasingly severe obesity epidemic in many developed site and others utilizing local ‘kyushoku centers’ serving something similar, where he was initially met with disdain and hostility for trying to instigate change. Nonetheless, his programs brought attention to the frightening conditions of school lunch in many parts of these countries.

We turn to an American blogger who is another example of someone who has recently shed light on the dreary conditions of school lunch in the US, and it’s connection to rising childhood obesity: Sarah Wu is a speech pathologist who while working in a large, Chicago-area elementary school, made an important discovery. A hasty start to her morning meant that she had forgotten to pack a lunch decade. The new program places calorie limits on the lunch for school, leading her to purchase the hot meal served and includes more fresh fruits and vegetables as well as daily to students. She was horrifi ed with what she was whole grain products. The response so far has been mixed, given (a plastic-wrapped, mushy hot dog and Jell-O) and with some children rejecting the healthier options, but it is decided to document every day’s school lunch for a year on certainly a step in the right direction. With all the kerfuffl e her blog, under the alias Mrs. Q. She describes, “Frequent surrounding school lunch in the US and other developed menu items at my school included chicken nuggets, hot countries, their governments could certainly turn to Japan dogs, pizza, pasta, and hamburgers. Fast food.” Her blog for inspiration on how to move forward! (fedupwithlunch.com) became increasingly popular, and Article Sources: 36 she published a book in 2011 about the experience. Today http://www.nippon.com/en/currents/d00046/ she is a ‘school lunch activist’. In the US, Sarah Wu is not http://www.nippon.com/en/views/b00202/ alone, in recent years, people outraged at what children ‘After Maths, Miso Soup’ article by Kimiko Barber http://articles.washingtonpost.com/2013-01-26/world/36562478_1_ FOOD are being fed in schools have written other books on the school-lunch-child-obesity-rate-meals topics of school lunch in the US and what parents can do http://apjcn.nhri.org.tw/server/APJCN/Volume21/vol21.1/Finished/24_ to change the status quo. Japan_155_158.pdf http://educationinjapan.wordpress.com/2012/07/07/the-history-and- A similar event happened last year when a 9-year-old institution-of-the-kyushoku-japanese-school-lunch/ girl from Western Scotland started blogging her school http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2142121/School-meal- countries, school lunch programs have been put under shockers-Croquettes-ice-lolly-cucumber--lunch-pupils-captured-girl-9. lunches for a project, only for the site to go viral. Similar html?ito=feeds-newsxml scrutiny. Until recently in the US, nutritional guidelines to what Wu had documented, the young student’s lunches claimed that pizza could be classifi ed as a vegetable and http://apjcn.nhri.org.tw/server/APJCN/Volume21/vol21.1/Finished/24_ consisted of small squares of pizza and sugary desserts, Japan_155_158.pdf fl avoured milk containing more sugar than soft drinks leading many to once again criticize what growing children http://www.huffi ngtonpost.com/news/michelle-obama-school-lunches was regularly served to elementary school students. A few were receiving for lunch in industrialized countries. years ago, in a special exposé-style program boldly called Photo sources: Jamie Oliver’s Food Revolution, celebrity chef Jamie Oliver Last year, US First Lady Michelle Obama instated a new http://www.nippon.com/en/views/b00202/ http://articles.washingtonpost.com/2013-01-26/world/36562478_1_ showed how nutritionally horrifying school lunches were national school lunch program in the country, backed school-lunch-child-obesity-rate-meals in the UK in a visit to a South-East London school. He then up by the US Department of Agriculture, in an effort to interestingmailforwards.blogspot.com created a new trial lunch menu for that included balanced address this issue. Prior to this, there had been no major whatsforschoollunch.blogspot.com meals made from scratch. A few years later Oliver travelled national change to the school lunch system in over a guardian.co.uk to one of the ‘statistically fattest’ towns in the US to do JapanMay 17th 2013 –Events June 12th 2013

Don’t see your favorite festival here? Have an upcoming event you’re super excited for? Mifune Matsuri Kyoto, Kyoto May 19th Let’s put them on the calendar and spread the love! Contact Events at steven.thompson@ Held in Kyoto’s western Arashiyama area, the Mifune festival features performing arts of all ajet.net with the details! If you’re not sure what’s going on in your area, you can always kinds afl oat graceful river boats. This is appropriate since the local shrine, Kurumazaki, holds get in touch with your Block Representative or local AJET chapter! the patron deity of the performing arts. Watch it from a hired boat, or from Arashiyama’s famous Togetsu Bridge. http://www.jnto.go.jp/eng/location/spot/festival/mifunematsuri.html Event name Location Date Lilac Festival Sapporo, Hokkaido May 23rd – 27th Nikko Grand Spring To celebrate the coming of spring, this fragrant festival fi lls Odori Park with thousands of lilacs, Nikko, Tochigi May 17th – 18th Procession the symbol of the city. There is also an event held in Kawashimo Park, which is a bit more open Nikko’s Toshogu shrine is one of the most-visited shrines in Japan, and this spring event is and outside the downtown area. There will be events during both such as music performances theircompetition. largest. Held to honor Tokugawa Ieyasu, who laid the foundations for modern Japan by and lilac giveaways. unifyinghttp://www.nikko-jp.org/english/toshogu/gyouretsu.html the warring states, the festival’s main feature is a 1,000-samurai procession carrying http://www.sapporo-tourguides.com/news/lilac-festival-in-sapporo.html 37 a shrine housing Ieyasu’s spirit. Theth 17 also features a samurai horseback archery display and Romeo & Juliet Nagoya, Aichi May 24th – 26th The Nameless Theatre company has been bringing quality productions to an international audience since 2011. With shows presented in English with Japanese subtitles, everyone can EVENTS Kanda Matsuri Chiyoda, Tokyo May 18th – 19th enjoy a night out at the theater. This production of Romeo and Juliet will be performed at the Held on odd-numbered years, the Kanda matsuri is one of Tokyo’s largest and most vibrantly Aichi Arts Center with fi ve showings. extravagant; with this year promising to be moreso due to 2011’s being cancelled. Black and http://namelesstheatre.org/romeo-and-juliet/ gold lacquered shrines are carried by more than 500 people. The festival has a long posh Takigi Noh Theater Kyoto, Kyoto June 1st – 2nd history, since Kanda used to be the central quarter of the ancient capital of Edo (now Tokyo). Firelight Noh performances, which give you the feeling you’ve stepped back into ancient Japan, http://www.kandamyoujin.or.jp/event/detail.html?id=35&m=00 are an event everyone should see at least once. Kyoto’s Heian Grand Temple hosts these open- Sanja Matsuri Taito, Tokyo May 17th – 19th air performances after dark. Even if you speak zero Japanese, the intricate visuals and striking Rival in size and spectacle to the Kanda Matsuri is Asakusa’s Sanja Matsuri. This festival draws atmosphere will keep you transfi xed. saved for the temple’s three main 2http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3063.html million visitors over a full weekend to Sensoji, so expect crowds upon crowds. Friday and http://www.jnto.go.jp/eng/location/spot/festival/takigionoh_kyoto.html Saturday see the smallermikoshi shrines carried around (over 100 in total), but Sunday is mikoshi, which house the spirits of Sensoji’s founders. Great Japan Beer Festival Shibuya, Tokyo June 1st – 2nd Chagu Chagu Horse Festival Morioka, Iwate June 8th Held since 1998 at the Ebisu Garden Hall, this festival draws thousands of revelers sampling Named for the tinkle sound of decorative horse harnesses as they trot from Sozen Shrine to hundreds of micro-brewed craft beers. Brewers compete for the coveted Japan Beer Cup, so Hachiman Shrine. The main crowd centers on the start of the 9-mile route at Sozen Shrine in come out and cast your votes while getting splendidly buzzed on beer samples. order to see the horses being decorated. This festival was originally meant to honor the horses http://beertaster.org/index-e.html for their hard work during the rice-planting season, and now commemorates Iwate’s long Mibu Rice Planting history of horse breeding. Kitahiroshima, Hiroshima June 2nd music. CattleCeremony also take part, and are dressed up at the shrine for the festivities. http://www.jnto.go.jp/eng/location/spot/festival/chaguchaguumako.html http://www.unesco.org/culture/ich/RL/00411 Niigata Inaka International Although the actual rice planting is done in cycles with modern equipment nowadays, the Tokamachi, Niigata June 8th – 9th communities of Mibu and Kawahigashi in northern Hiroshima still carry out this centuries-old Basketball Tournament planting ritual. Colorfully-dressed women calledSaotame plant rice to the sounds of shrine For the past few years, Niigata JET Cameron Chien has organized an interprefectural basketball tournament in the mountain town of Tokamachi. Over two days, over 50 players compete to take home the treasured Inaka Cup, which is actually a giant bottle of local sa http://www.facebook.com/events/229328210525421/?ref=14 Yasuda Kinnen Horse Race Fuchu, Tokyo June 2nd http://www.h3.dion.ne.jp/~mswy/your friends want to act out your NBA dreams and meet JETs from all over Japan, get in touch! st! Yasuda Kinnen is the fi nal leg of the annual Asian Mile Challenge event. Horses over 3 years Registration ends May 21 old compete for a 100-million-yen prize. This is a huge day for racing, so expect thousands of Yamagata Bolder Boulder Yamagata, Yamagata June 9th people to be in attendance and soak up the enthusiastic atmosphere. religiousThehttp://japanracing.jp/en/information/yasuda-kinen/index.html whole rites, shrine the complex festival alsois also features lit up withmartial hundreds arts demonstrations of lanterns, with such 365 as decorating each A 10 km walking event held in Yamagata city every year, this international day out was inspired ke. If Lilac Festival Sapporo, Hokkaido June 2nd – 3rd by the Bolder Boulder held in Colorado, USA. The walk is meant to encourage fi tnessyou andand bring people out into the city to see the sights and make some friends. Signup is until May 23rd! Similar to the event held in Odori Park described above, but in Kawashimo Park 38 Atsuta Shrine Festival Nagoya, Aichi June 5th Osaka Rice Planting Ritual Osaka, Osaka June 14th This is Atsuta Shrine’s biggest yearly festival, and aside from the usualmikoshi carrying and Held at the main Sumiyoshi Shrine in the city, this rice planting ritual features costumed judo and kyudo. EVENTS women planting rice seedlings in the waters of the rice fi elds while singing traditional songs. It is followed by a warrior parade and mock battle with sticks, in case normal rituals without mikoshi. http://nagoya-info.com/festivals/ mock battles aren’t your thing. http://www.sumiyoshitaisha.net/calender/otaue.html th th Yosakoi Soran Festival Sapporo, Hokkaido June 6 – 10 The Grand Aizu Scavenger Aizuwakamatsu, June 15th Taking over Odori Park in the middle of the city and attracting more than 2 million visitors Hunt Fukushima annually, this event has exploded in popularity since its inception 20 years ago. 300 teams of Held to encourage interest and exploration of Fukushima’s famous castle town, this dancers compete for the judges over the days of the festival, and spectators are often drawn in interprefectural scavenger hunt will see participants walking around the city in an attempt to and invited to dance along. fi nd 20 unique and interesting items. Come out to meet ALTs from all over Tohoku and beyond! http://gosapporo.com/arts-entertainment/festivals/yosakoi-soran/ http://www.facebook.com/events/646799372013906/?ref=14 PHOTOGRAPHY WINNERS

Behold this month’s sakura extravaganza! You’ve already seen Josh Del Pino’s adorable winning photograph on the cover of this month’s issue (that’s two months in a row!), now take a look at the runners-up from the May Photography Competition!

39 #2 Ming Tan, Nara #3 Neetha Mony, Nara

CONTEST May issue Haiku winner

40

CONTEST in this fresh turned earth waits a green, growing promise the seed, yet unseen

Sarah Jane Blenkhorn Shimane