INDEX

See also Accommodations, Restaurants, and Pubs indexes, below.

Armagh Public Library, 523 GENERAL INDEX An Clochán (Cloghane), 338 An Creagán Visitors’ Centre Arthur’s Quay Centre (Limer- (Creggan), 554 ick), 356 ARP, 64 A Andrew Jackson Centre (Car- Arthur Young’s Walk, 329 Abbey Mills, 468 rickfergus), 515 Ashtown Riding Stables Abbey Tavern (Dublin), 176 Andrews Lane Theatre (Dub- (Dublin), 158, 163 Abbey Theatre (Dublin), lin), 178 Athassel Priory (near 177–178 Anna Livia, statue of, 151 Golden), 248 Accommodations. See also An Oige, 74–75 Athlone (Baile Atha Luain), Accommodations Index An Spailpin Fanac (The 4–5, 424, 430–431 best, 13–15 Migrant Worker; Cork), 283 Athlone Castle, 424–425 ”green,” 67 An Spidéal (Spiddal), Athlone Golf Club, 428 Achill Island (An Caol), 434, 409–412 The Atlantic Highlands, 439 Antique Tavern (Enniscor- 475–482 Active vacations, best, 12–13 thy), 236 ATMs, 57–58 Adare, 360 Apartment (Belfast), 512 Attic @ Liquid (Galway), 403 Adare Heritage Centre, 360 Aran Island Ferries, 405 Aughnanure Castle (Oughte- Aer Arann, 50 The Aran Islands, 384, 386, rard), 413 Aer Arann Islands, 405 404–406 The Auld Dubliner (Dublin), Aer Lingus, 47, 48 Aran sweaters, 168, 289, 420 172 Aghadoe Heights Hotel & Aras an Uachtaráin (The Irish Austin & Co., Ltd. (Derry), 547 Spa (near Killarney), 331 President’s House; Dublin), Avoca (Bunratty), 372–373 Ahenny High Crosses, 248 142 Avoca Handweavers AIDS Helpline, 63 Archive’s Antiques Centre Avoca, 194–195 Aille Cross Equestrian Centre (Belfast), 504 Dublin, 166 (Loughrea), 401 Ardara (Ard an Rátha), 5, 472, Letterfrack, 416 Aillwee Cave (Ballyvaughan), 475, 476, 482 Moll’s Gap, 316 381 Ardara Heritage Centre, 477 Avondale House & Forest Air Canada, 47 Ardara Weavers Fair, 476 Park (Rathdrum), 188 Air France, 48 Ardgillan Castle and Air travel, 47–48, 50, 67 Demesne (Balbriggan), 183 Baboró International Arts Alias Tom (Dublin), 167 Ardhowen Theatre (Enniskil- Festival for Children (Gal- All-Ireland Hurling and len), 564 way), 46 Gaelic Football Finals (Dub- Ardmore High Cross, Backroads, 94 lin), 45 240–241 Baginbun Head, 226 Altamount Garden (Tullow), Ards Forest Park, 479 Ballina, 370 188 Ards Peninsula, 516–520 Ballinderry, 370 Amelia EarhartCOPYRIGHTED Centre (near MATERIAL Area codes, 565 Ballinskelligs, 315 Derry), 543 The Ark: A Cultural Centre for Ballintoy, 525 American Airlines, 47 Children (Dublin), 157–158 Ballintubber Abbey, 435 American Airlines Arklow Golf Club, 195 Ballybofey, 484 Vacations, 68 Armagh, County, 522–524 Ballybunion Golf Club, 347 American Express, 58, 565 Armagh Astronomy Centre Ballycastle, 525 An Bodhran (Cork), 283 and Planetarium, 522 Ballycroy National Park, 96 Ancient Ireland, best of, 8–9 Armagh City, 522 Ballydehob, 298 An Clochán (Clifden), 413. Armagh County Museum, Ballyferriter (Baile an Fheir- See also Connemara 522–523 tearaigh), 337 574 Ballyhack, 226 Bed & breakfasts (B&Bs), Killarney, 328 Ballyhack Castle, 227 73–74. See also Accommo- Kinsale, 289 Ballyliffin Golf Club, 485 dations Meath, 214 Ballymaloe Cookery School Belfast, 495–515. See also the Mourne Mountains, (Shanagarry), 294–295 Northern Ireland 535 Ballyshannon (Béal Atha Sea- accommodations, 505–509 northern Donegal Bay, 473 naidh), 467, 468, 470 emergencies, 498 Rathlin Island, 527 Ballyshannon Folk Festival, gay and lesbian scene, Sligo, 450 468 514–515 the Sperrin countryside, Balmoral Golf Club (Belfast), getting around, 496, 498 556 505 Internet access, 498 Tipperary, 250 Baltimore Diving & Water- nightlife, 512–514 Waterford City, 242 sports Centre, 303 pubs, 498 West Cork, 302 Ba Mizu (Dublin), 174 restaurants, 509–512 Wexford, 231 Banagher (Beannchar na shopping, 503–505 Wicklow County, 195 Sionna), 424 side trips from, 515–524 Bird-watching, 98–99, 556 Banba’s Crown (Fíorcheann sights and attractions, the Atlantic Highlands, 479 Éireann), 484 498–503 the Burren, 381 Bandon Pottery (Enni- sports and outdoor activi- Cape Clear Island, 303 skeane), 302 ties, 505 Clare Coast, 386 Bank of Ireland Arts Centre traveling to, 496 the Dingle Peninsula, 340 (Dublin), 154 visitor information, 496 Dublin, 162 Bank of Ireland Centre/Par- Belfast Botanic Gardens & the Fermanagh Lakelands, liament House (Dublin), Palm House, 498 562 153–154 Belfast Castle, 499 Rathlin Island, 527 The Bank on College Green Belfast Cathedral, 499 Tipperary, 250 (Dublin), 174 Belfast City Marathon, 43 Wexford, 225, 231 Bank Walk, 465 Belfast Festival at Queens, 46 Birr (Biorra), 424 Bantry House, 299 Belfast Zoo, 499 Birr Castle Demesne, 425 Bar Bacca/La Lea (Belfast), Belleek, 558–560 Birr Golf Club, 428 512 Belleek china, 559 Black Abbey (Kilkenny), 258 Barkers (Wexford), 230 Belltable Arts Centre (Limer- Blackberry Fair (Dublin), 169 Barleycove Beach, 302 ick), 360 Blackstairs Mountains, 232 Barnesmore Gap, 484 Belmullet Golf Course, 438 Black Taxi Tours (Belfast), 70, Battle of Aughrim Interpreta- Belvoir Park Golf Club (Bel- 500 tive Centre (near Balli- fast), 505 Blackwater bogs, 425 nasloe), 425 Ben Bulben, 450 Blarney Castle and Stone, 8, Battle of the Boyne Com- Benburb Valley Park, Castle, 280–281 memoration, 44 and Heritage Centre, 523 Blarney Woollen Mills, 168, Beaches. See also specific Benwee Head, 439 263 beaches Bergin Clarke Studio (Rath- The Blasket Centre (Dingle), the Atlantic Highlands, 479 drum), 195 338 Connemara, 413 Bettystown, 210 Blasket Islands (Na Blas- Dingle Peninsula, 339–340 Bicycling, 93–95 caodaí), 337 Donegal Bay, 470 the Ards Peninsula, 518 Bleeding Horse (Dublin), 174 Dublin, 162 Connemara, 417 Blennerville Windmill (near Glencolumbkille, 473 Cork, 281 Tralee), 346 Inishowen Peninsula, 485 Derry, 547 Blessington Adventure Cen- Meath, 210 Dingle, 340 tre, 103 Sligo, 450 Donegal, 465 Blessington Lakes Leisure, Waterford City, 242 Dublin, 114–115 196 West Cork, 302 eastern Galway, West- Bloody Foreland, 476 Wexford, 231, 232 meath, and Offaly, 427 Bloomsday Festival (Dublin), Beaghmore Stone Circles the Fermanagh Lakelands, 43–44 (near Omagh), 554 561 Blue Pool Nature Trail, 329 Beara Peninsula, 302, 305 Galway, 400 Blue Raincoat Theatre (Sligo), Bective Abbey (near Kells), Kildare, 205 454 210 Kilkenny, 262 Bmibaby, 47 Boating. See also Kayaking; Brown Thomas (Limerick), Carrick-A-Rede Rope Bridge 575 Sailing 357 (Larrybane), 525–526 eastern Galway, West- Brú Ború Heritage Centre Carrickfergus, 515 meath, and Offaly, 427 (Cashel), 249 Carrickfergus Castle, 8, 515 Leitrim, 458 Bruxelles (Dublin), 174 Carrigafoyle Castle (near Bal- Limerick and Clare, 373 BT2 (Dublin), 167 lylongford), 346 Boat tours and cruises Buggy tours, Killarney, 327 Carrowkeel, 448 Connemara, 415 The Bull Ring (Wexford Carrowkeel Passage Tomb Donegal Town, 464 Town), 224 Cemetery (Sligo Town and the Fermanagh Lakelands, The Bulman (Kinsale), 293 Boyle), 449 558–559 Buncrana, 484 Carrowmore, 448 Galway, 399 Bundoran (Bun Dobhráin), Carrowmore and Killarney, 327 467, 468, 470–471 Carrowkeel, 9 Lough Neagh, 521 Bundoran Golf Club, 470 Carrowmore Megalithic Sligo, 446 Bunratty, 367 Cemetery, 449 Bog lands, Connemara’s, 414 Bunratty Castle and Folk Car travel, 50 Bogs, Blackwater, 425 Park, 8, 367–368 Cashel, 248 The Bogside (Derry), Bunratty Village Mills, 373 Casino Marino, 183 543–545 Bunratty Winery, 368–369 Castlebar Golf Club, 438 Bog Train Tours (Shannon- The Burren, 5, 380–384 Castle Coole (near Enniskil- bridge), 425 Burren Bird of Prey Centre len), 560 Boland’s Kinsale Crafts, 289 (Ballyvaughan), 381 Castlecourt Shopping Centre The Bolton Library (Cashel), The Burren Centre (Kilfe- (Belfast), 503 248 nora), 381 Castle Espie (Comber), 516 The Book Centre (Kilkenny), Burren National Park, 96, Castlegregory (Caislean an 261 380–381 Ghriare), 338 The Book Centre (Waterford Burren Smokehouse (Lis- The Castle Inn (Caislean Ui City), 242 doonvarna), 386 Cuain; Kilkenny), 267 Book of Kells, 209–210 Burren Way, 381 Castles, best, 8 The Book of Kells (Dublin), Burtonport (Ailt an Chor- Castletown (Celbridge), 203 142 rain), 476 Castle Ward (Strangford), Books, recommended, 33 Bus Éireann, 54 516–517 Booley Bay, 226 tours, 70 Castlewellan Forest Park, 533 Bóthar na Trá (Salthill), 409 Business hours, 565 The Cat & the Moon (Sligo), Boyle Abbey, 456 Bus travel, 54 447 Boyne River Valley, 209–218 Button Factory (Dublin), 178 Cathedral of St. Columb Brandon, Mount (Cnoc Bhré- Byrne’s Bookstore & World (Derry), 545 annain), 338, 341 of Wonder (Wexford), Catsby Cave, 468 Brandon Bay, 340 230–231 Causeway Coast, 524–532 Brandon Gallery, 339 Causeway Coast Path, 528 Brandon’s Bar (Ennis), 379 Café en Seine (Dublin), 174 Cavan, County, 455 Bray, 159 Cahersiveen, 315 Cavan Crystal Craft & Design Bray Head, 159, 163 Cahir Castle, 8, 249 Centre, 456 Brazen Head (Dublin), Caislean an Ghriare Cave Hill Country Park (Bel- 172–173 (Castlegregory), 338 fast), 499 Brian de Staic (Killarney), 328 Caislean Ui Cuain (The Castle C. Bonner & Son (Ardara), The Bridge Pottery Inn; Kilkenny), 267 478 (Burnchurch), 262 Calendar of events, 42–46 Ceardlann an Spidéil/Spiddal The Bridges of Ross, 386 Cape Clear, 298 Craft Village, 410 Brigid, St., 206 Cape Clear Island, 304 Céide Fields (Ballycastle), 435 British Airways, 47 Capitol (Dublin), 174 Cellphones, 71 BritRail Pass + Ireland, 54 Carbon offsetting, 67 Celtic Clays, 217 Britton and Daughters (Ross- Carlingford, 4, 215 Celtic Cycling, 94 nowlagh), 470 Carlow, County, 187, 188, Celtic Note (Dublin), 169 Broomfield Riding School, 190–191, 193, 194, Celtic Shop & Tara Jewelry 196 198, 199 (Clifden), 416 Browne’s Hill Dolmen (Car- Carnlough, 525 Centers for Disease Control low), 188 Carrantuohill, 314 and Prevention, 59 Brown Thomas (Galway), 402 Car rentals, 52–53 576 Chapel of St. Augustine Cloch na Rón (Roundstone), Cork Butter Museum, 278 (Derry), 544 413 Cork City, 269–285 Charles Fort, 8 Cloghane (An Clochán), 338 accommodations, 273–276 Charles Fort (Summer Cove), Clonakilty, 298 gay and lesbian resources, 288 Clonalis House (near Cas- 273 Charleville Castle (Tullam- tlerea), 456 getting around, 272 ore), 426 Clonmacnois (Cluain Mhic Internet access, 273 Charlie Byrne’s Bookshop Nóis), 424, 426 layout of, 270, 272 (Galway), 401 Clonmel, 247 nightlife, 283–285 Chester Beatty Library (Dub- Clonmines, 226 restaurants, 276–278 lin), 142–143 Club FX (Cork), 284 shopping, 282–283 Christ Church Cathedral Cnoc Bhréannain (Mount sights and attractions, (Dublin), 143 Brandon), 338, 341 278–281 Christianity, 21–22 The Coach House (Round- sports and outdoor activi- Christian ruins, best, 9–10 wood), 202 ties, 281–282 Christy’s Irish Stores (Killar- Coal Quay Market (Cork), 278 traveling to, 269–270 ney), 328 The Cobblestone (Dublin), visitor information, 270 City Hall 173 Cork City Gaol, 278 Belfast, 499–500 Cobh, 294 Cork Golf Club, 281 Waterford City, 238 Cobh: The Queenstown Cork Greyhound Stadium, CityJet, 47 Story, 295 281 City Limits Comedy Club Cobwebs (Galway), 401 Cork Midsummer Arts Festi- (Cork), 284 Cocoon (Dublin), 174 val (Cork City), 44 C. Kennedy & Sons Ltd. (Ard- Cois na hAbhna (Ennis), 379 Cork Opera House, 284 ara), 478 Collins, Michael, 299–301 Cork Public Museum, 278 Claddagh Records (Dublin), Memorial Centre (Wood- Cornmarket (Wexford Town), 169 field), 301 224 Claire Garvey (Dublin), 167 Collins Barracks (Dublin), Corrán Binne (Horn Head), Clare, County, 364–389. 143, 146 476–477 See also Clare Coast; Combridge Fine Arts (Dub- Costelloe & Costelloe (Dub- The Burren lin), 165 lin), 168 accommodations, 374–377 Comeragh Mountains, 237 County Cavan Golf Club (Dru- the Burren, 382–383 Comeragh Valley Drive, 247 mellis), 458 Clare Coast, 387–388 Commemorative Garden of County Longford Golf Club, the Burren, 380–384 St. Fiachra (Kildare), 204 458 coast of, 384–389 Cong, 432, 434 County Sligo Golf Club nightlife, 379–380 Connaught Antiques (Gal- (Rosses Point), 451 restaurants, 377–379 way), 401 County Wicklow Gardens the Burren, 384 Connemara, 412–424 Festival, 43 Clare Coast, 388 Connemara Golf Club Courtmacsherry Ceramics from Shannon Airport to (Clifden), 418 (Courtmacsherry), 302 Ennis, 367 Connemara Marble Visitor Cow’s Lane Market (Dublin), sights and attractions, Centre (Moycullen), 416 169 367–372 Connemara National Park, Crackpots Pottery (Kinsale), sports and outdoor activi- 96, 413–414, 419 289 ties, 373–374 Connemara ponies, 416 Crafts of Ireland (Cork), 282 traveling to, 364–366 Continental Airlines, 47 Craftworks Gallery (Belfast), visitor information, 366 Continental Airlines Vaca- 503 Clare Heritage Centre tions, 68 Crag Cave (Killarney), 326 (Corofin), 381–382 Coole Park National Forest, Craggaunowen Bronze-Age Clare Island, 434, 437 406–407 Project (near Ennis), 369 Clare Museum (Ennis), 369 Corcomroe Abbey (near Bell- Crawford Municipal Art Gal- Clarenbridge, 406 harbour), 382 lery (Cork), 278–279 Clear Pass, 39 Cork, County, 79, 286–311 Credit cards, 58 Clifden (An Clochán), 413. east of Cork City, 294–297 Croagh Patrick, 5, 434 See also Connemara south of Cork City, Crom Estate (Newtownbut- Cliffs of Moher, 5, 384, 385 286–294 ler), 560 Climate, 41 West (See West Cork) Cromwell, Oliver, 25–26 Cork Arts Theatre, 285 Crown Bar (Wexford), 236 Cruises Street Shopping Cen- Derrynane House National Douglas Golf Club (Cork), 281 577 tre (Limerick), 357 Historic Park (County Down Cathedral (Downpat- CSA Czech Airlines, 48 Kerry), 315 rick), 521 Cuba (Galway), 403 Design Centre (Dublin), 167 Downpatrick, 520–521 Cúchulainn country, 215–218 Design Concourse (Galway), The Dragon (Dublin), 177 Cuilcagh, Mount, 562 402 Drinking laws, 565–566 Culdaff (Cúil Dabhcha), 484 DESIGNyard (Dublin), 168 Driving laws, tips and warn- Cultra, 516 Desmond Castle (Kinsale), ings, 50–51 Cultúrlann MacAdam O Fia- 288 Driving rules, 51 ich (Belfast), 503 De Valera Library and Dromahair, 450 Cultúrlann Macadam Oflaich Museum (Ennis), 369 Drombeg Stone Circle (Belfast), 500 Devenish Island, 560 (between Rosscarbery and Cultúrlann na hÉireann (Dub- The Diamond (Donegal Glandore), 299–300 lin), 176 Town), 462 Dromineer, 370 Cummingeera, 303, 305 Dingle (An Daingean), Dromoland Golf Club (New- The Curragh (Curragh), 4, 335–345 market-on-Fergus), 374 203–204 Dingle Peninsula, 335–345 Drugstores, 566 Curragh Golf Club, 206 Dingle’s Oceanworld Aquar- Druids Glen Golf Club (New- Currency and currency ium, 338 tonmountkennedy), 195 exchange, 57 The Dingle Way, 341 Druid’s Heath (Newton- Cushendun, 525 Disabilities, travelers with, mountkennedy), 195 Custom House (Dublin), 154 61–62 Druid Theatre (Galway), 404 Customs regulations, 38–40 Disability Action, 62 Drumcliff & Yeats’s Grave Custy’s Traditional Music Diversions Temple Bar (Dub- (Drumcliff), 449 Shop (Ennis), 373 lin), 43 Drumena Cashel (Stone Fort; Diving near Castlewellan), 533 Dalkey Castle and Heritage Doe Castle (near Cree- Drum Manor Forest Park Centre, 179–180 slough), 8, 477 (near Cookstown), 554 Dalkey Hill, 159, 164 Doheny and Nesbitt (Dublin), Dubai Duty Free Irish Derby Dalkey Island, 159 171 (The Curragh), 44 Dan O’Hara’s Homestead Dolan’s Warehouse (Limer- Dublin, 79, 106–186 Farm (Clifden), 414 ick), 360 accommodations, 117–130 Davis Gallery (Dublin), 165 Dollar Bay, 226 arriving in, 106–107, 110 Davy Byrnes (Dublin), 171 Dollymount Beach (near Ballsbridge/Embassy Row, De Barra Jewellery (Ken- Dublin), 162 112 mare), 317 Dolphin-watching, 386–387 accommodations, Deep vein thrombosis, 60 Donegal, County, 461–487 128–130 Delphi Adventure Company Donegal Bay Coast, 467–475 restaurants, 141 (Leenane), 103, 417 Donegal Castle, 463 banks, 115 Delta Airlines, 47 Donegal Craft Village, 464 bicycling, 114–115 Delta Vacations, 68 Donegal Golf Club, 470 business hours, 115 Derg Inn (Terryglass), 379 Donegal Historical Society currency exchange, 115 Derreen Gardens (Lauragh), Museum (Rossnowlagh), doctors and dentists, 115 299 468, 470 embassies and consulates, Derry City, 539–553 Donegal Parian China (Bally- 116 accommodations, 547–549 shannon), 470 emergencies, 116 getting around, 542–543 The Donegal Shop (Derry), Fitzwilliam Square/Merrion nightlife, 552–553 547 Square area, 112 restaurants, 550–551 Donegal Town, 461–467 accommodations, 126 shopping, 546–547 Donegal Town Summer restaurants, 139 sights and attractions, Theatre, 466 gay and lesbian scene, 543–546 Dooks Golf Club (Glenbeigh), 176–177 sports and outdoor activi- 318 getting around, 112–115 ties, 547 Doolin, 384, 385 hospitals, 116 traveling to, 540, 542 Doolin Crafts Gallery, 386 hot lines, 116 visitor information, 542 Doonbeg Golf Club, 387 Internet access, 116 Derry Craft Village, 547 Dooney Rock, 450 layout of, 110 Derrynane, 315 Dorrian’s Thatch Bar (Bally- magazines, 116 shannon), 471 578 Dublin (cont.) Dublin Castle, 146 East Clare Golf Club main arteries, streets and Dublin City Marathon, 46 (Bodyke), 374 squares, 110–111 Dublin City Tour, 159 East Clare Heritage Centre/ neighborhoods in brief, Dublin Civic Museum, 157 Holy Island Tours 111–112 Dublinia (Dublin), 146 (Tuamgraney), 370, 372 nightlife, 169–179 Dublin International Airport, Easter Rebellion, 30–31 current listings, 170 106–107 Economy-class syndrome, 60 northern suburbs, 182–186 Dublin International Film Ecotourism, 66–68 North Quays, 112 Festival, 42 Eddie Doherty (Ardara), 478 O’Connell Street area north Dublin Pass, 143 Electricity, 566 of the Liffey, 112 Dublin Theatre Festival, 45 Elegant Ireland, 77 accommodations, Dublin Woollen Mills, 168 Elm Park Golf & Sports Club 126–128 Dublin Writers Museum (Dublin), 162–163 restaurants, 140–141 (Dublin), 146 Embassies and consulates, Old City/Liberties & Dublin Zoo, 158–159 566 around, 111–112 Duiske Abbey (Graiguena- Emerald Cycles/Ireland Rent- accommodations, managh), 256, 260 A-Bike, 94 120–122 Dún Aengus, 9, 405 Emergencies, 566 restaurants, 131, 134 Dunbeg Fort, 337 Empire Music Hall (Belfast), pharmacies, 116 Dunbrody, SS Emigrant Ship 513, 514 police, 117 (New Ross), 230 Ennis, 2, 367 post office, 117 Dunbrody Abbey (near Dun- accommodations, 375, 376 pubs, 170–173 cannon), 226 attractions, 369, 372 late-night, 174 Dundrum, 532 nightlife, 379 suggested itinerary, Dundrum Castle, 533–534 restaurant, 377 91–92 Dunfanaghy, 477 road from Shannon Airport tours, 161 Dunfanaghy Golf Club, 479 to, 367 restaurants, 130–141 Dungarvan Golf Club, 243 shopping, 373 money-saving tips, 131 Dunguaire (Galway), water in, 61, 366 smoking, 135 403–404 Enniscorthy Castle/Wexford St. Stephen’s Green/ Dunguaire Castle (Kinvara), County Museum, 227 Grafton Street area, 112 407 Enniscorthy Golf Club, 232 accommodations, Dún Laoghaire, beach, 162 Enniscrone Golf Club, 451 122–126 Dunluce Castle, 8 Ennis Friary, 372 restaurants, 137–139 Dunluce Castle (Bushmills), Ennis Golf Club, 374 shopping, 165–169 526 Enniskillen, 558 side trips from, 179–186 Dunluce Centre (Bushmills), Enniskillen Castle, 560 sights and attractions, 526 Entry requirements, 38 142–161 Dunmore Cave (Ballyfoyle), Errew Abbey (near Crossmo- for kids, 157–159 260 lina), 436 organized tours, Dunmore East Adventure Errigal, Mount, 476 159–161 Centre, 243 Escorted tours, 69 southern suburbs, 179–182 Dunmurry Golf Club (Bel- Eurailpass, 54 spectator sports, 164 fast), 505 Eurotrek Raleigh, 94 sports and outdoor activi- Dunquin (Dún Chaion), 337 Everyman Palace (Cork), 285 ties, 162–164 Dursey Island, 298–299 ExplorErne (Belleek), 561 Temple Bar/Trinity College Durty Nellie’s (Bunratty), 380 Exploris (Portaferry), 517 area Dysert O’Dea Castle and Eyre Square (Galway), 390 accommodations, Clare Archaeology Centre 120–122 (Corofin), 369 Fáilte Ireland Horse Show restaurants, 134–137 (Dublin), 44 Trinity College Area, 111 Eamon Langton’s (Kilk- Faithlegg Golf Club (Water- visitor information, 110 enny), 267–268 ford), 243 walking, 113 Eamonn Doran’s (Dublin), Fallers of Galway, 402 weather, 117 178 Fallers Sweater Shop (Gal- Dublin Airport, expansion Earhart, Amelia, Centre (near way), 402 of, 1–2 Derry), 543 Fallers Sweater Shop (Kilk- Dublin Bus, 69 Earth (Derry), 553 enny), 261 tours, 159 Eask Tower (Dingle), 338 Falls Road (Belfast), 500–501 Families with children, 64–65 Fortwilliam Golf Club (Bel- getting around, 392–393 579 best activities for, 12 fast), 505 Internet access, 393 Dublin attractions, Forum Theatre (Waterford), layout of, 392 157–159 246 nightlife, 403–404 suggested itinerary, 85–87 Fota Island Golf Club (Carri- restaurants, 396–398 Fanad, 477 gtwohill), 290 shopping, 401–402 Farmhouse accommodations, Fota Island Wildlife Park & side trips from, 404–407 74 Arboretum, 295 sights and attractions, The Fermanagh Lakelands, Four Courts (Dublin), 154 398–399 557–564 Foxford Woollen Mills Visitor south of, 406–407 Fernhill House: The People’s Centre, 436 spectator sports, 400 Museum (Belfast), 501 Foyle System of rivers, 556 sports and outdoor activi- Ferns Castle, 227 Foynes Flying Boat Museum ties, 400–401 Ferries, traveling to Ireland (Foynes), 360–361 visitor information, 392 on, 48–50 Francis O’Donnell (Ardara), Galway City Museum, 399 The Ferryman (Dublin), 159 478 Galway Golf Club, 401 Festivals and special events, Frank Lewis Gallery (Killar- Galway Greyhound Track, 42–46 ney), 328 400 Fifth Province (Derry), 545 Frommers.com, 68 Galway International Oyster Films, recommended, 33–34 The Front Lounge (Dublin), Festival, 45 Firkin Crane Cultural Centre 177 Galway Irish Crystal, 402 (Cork), 284 Frower Point, 290 Galway Irish Crystal Heritage Fishing, 101–102 The Fry Model Railway (Mala- Centre, 399 Ards Peninsula, 518 hide), 183 Galway Oyster Festival (Clar- Atlantic Highlands, 479 Fuchsia Craft (Oughterard), enbridge and Kilcolgan), Belfast, 505 416 406 Connemara, 417 Funderland (Dublin), 42 Galway Racecourse, 400 Cork, 281 Fungie (dolphin), 341 Gap of Dunloe, 325 Derry, 547 Fungie the Dolphin Tours Gap of Mamore, 484 Dingle, 340 (Dingle), 338–339 Gardens, best, 11–12 Donegal, 465 Garinish Island (Ilnacullin), Dublin, 162 GAA Museum (Dublin), 157 298, 300–301 Fermanagh Lakelands, 562 Gaelic games (hurling and Garter Lane Arts Centre Foyle System of rivers, 556 Gaelic football), (Waterford City), 238 Galway, 400 164, 281, 330 Garter Lane Arts Centre Galway Bay Coast, 410 Gaelic language, 28 Theatre (Waterford), 246 Kilkenny, 263 Gaiety (Dublin), 178 The Gate (Dublin), 178 Killarney, 329 Gallarus Oratory (near Din- Gays and lesbians, 62–63 Kinsale, 289 gle), 337 Belfast, 514–515 Limerick, 357 Galtee Mountains, 248, 251 Cork, 273 Mayo, 437–438 Galway, County, 2. See also Dublin, 116, 176–177 Mourne Mountains, 535 Connemara; Eastern Gal- Galway, 393 North Antrim Glens, 528 way; Galway Bay Coast; Waterford City, 238 northern Donegal Bay, 473 Galway City Gay Switchboard Dublin, 63 Roscommon, 458 eastern Galway, West- Genealogy Center (near Wex- Sligo, 451 meath, and Offaly, ford), 230 Tipperary, 250 424–431 Genealogy Centre (Derry), Waterford, 243 Galway Arts Centre, 398 545 West Cork, 303 Galway Arts Festival and General Post Office (GPO; Wexford, 232 Races, 44 Dublin), 154–155 Wicklow County, 195 Galway Bay Coast, 408–412 The George (Dublin), 177 Fleadh Cheoil na hÉireann Galway Bay Golf Resort, The George Inn (Prosperous), (Tullamore), 45 400–401 208 Florence Court, 561 Galway Cathedral, 398 Gerry Chawkes (Clonmel), Folk Village Shop (Glen- Galway City, 80, 390–407 255 columbkille), 472 accommodations, 394–396 Giant’s Causeway, 5, 525, 526 Forget-Me-Not/The Craft arriving in, 392 Giant’s Ring (Ballynahatty), Shop (Donegal), 464 cruises and tours, 399 517 Fort Dunree Military Museum drugstores, 393 Gift Venue (Ennis), 373 (Buncrana), 484–485 580 Glasnevin Cemetery (Dublin), Tralee, 347 153 Waterford, 243 Half Moon (Cork), 284 Glassillaun Beach, 413 Wexford, 231–232 Halo (Galway), 403 Glasson Golf Hotel & Country Wicklow County, 195 Ha’Penny Laugh Comedy Club, 428 Gortin Glen Forest Park Club (Dublin), 176 Glebe House and Gallery (County Tyrone), 554 Harbour Bar (Bray), 202 (Church Hill), 477 Gougane Barra, 305 Harbour Point (Little Island), Glenarm, 525 Gourmet Festival (Kinsale), 281 Glenbeigh, 315 286 Hartmann & Son Ltd. (Gal- Glencolumbkille, 472 GPO (Galway), 403 way), 402 Glencolumbkille Folk Park, Grand Canal Way, 206 Hawk’s Well Theatre (Sligo), 472 Grand Opera House (Belfast), 454–455 Glendalough, 190, 196 514 Hazelwood Sculpture Trail, Glengesh Pass, 472 Granny’s Bottom Drawer 450 Glenmacnass Waterfall, 190 (Kinsale), 289 Health concerns, 59–60 Glenmalure Golf Club Grant Ancestral Home (Bally- Health insurance, 566 (Greenane), 195 gawley), 554 The Helix (Dublin), 179 Glenshane Pass, 556 Granuaile Centre (Louis- Hell’s Hole, 484 Glens of Antrim, 524 burgh), 436 Heraldic Museum/Genealogi- Glenties (Na Gleanta), 476 Gray Line, 69–70, 160, 209 cal Office (Dublin), 157 Glenveagh National Park, 96, Gray’s Printers’ Museum The Hibernian (Cork), 283 476 (Strabane), 554–555 The Hidden Ireland, 74 Glenveagh National Park and Great Famine, 29–30 Hiking. See Walking and hik- Castle (Church Hill), Great Saltee Island, 231 ing 477–478 Greencastle (An Cáisleá Nua), Hill of Tara, 8–9 Glin Castle, 361 483–484 Hill of Tara (Navan), 209, 210 Golden Mile (Belfast), 496 Greencastle Golf Course, 485 History, of Northern Ireland, Golf, 99 Greencastle Maritime 489 Ards Peninsula, 518–519 Museum and Planetarium, History of Ireland, 18–33 Atlantic Highlands, 479 485 tours for history buffs, Belfast, 505 Greene’s Bookshop Ltd. 69–70 Cavan, 458 (Dublin), 166 Hodges Figgis (Dublin), 166 Clare Coast, 387 Green Holes of Doolin, 385 Holden Leathergoods (Din- Connemara, 418 Greenlane Gallery (Dingle), gle), 339 Cork, 281 339 Holidays, 41–42 Derry, 547 Green on Red (Dublin), 165 Holy Trinity Cathedrals the Dingle Peninsula, 340 ”Green roads” (the Burren), (Waterford City), 238–239 Donegal Bay, 470 381 Holy Trinity Heritage Centre Dublin, 162–163 Gregory, Lady, 398, 406, 407 (Carlingford), 215 eastern Galway, West- Grey Abbey (Greyabbey), 517 Home rule, 30 meath, and Offaly, 428 The Greyhound (Kinsale), Hook Head, 231, 479 the Fermanagh Lakelands, 293 Hook Peninsula, 226 562 Greyhound racing, 164, 281, Horetown House (Foulks- Galway, 400 348, 400 mills), 232 Inishowen Peninsula, 485 Grianan of Aileach, 484 Horn Head (Corrán Binne), Kerry, 317–318 Grogan’s Castle Lounge 476–477, 479 Kildare, 205 (Dublin), 171 Horseback riding, 100 Kilkenny, 263 Group Theatre (Belfast), 514 the Atlantic Highlands, 479 Killarney, 329 GUBU (Dublin), 177 Belfast, 505 Limerick, 357 Guild Hall (Derry), 545 Connemara, 418 Mayo, 438 Guinness Cork Jazz Festival, Derry, 547 Meath, 214 46 Dingle, 340 the Mourne Mountains, Guinness Jazz Festival (Cork), Donegal Bay, 470 535 284 Dublin, 163 North Antrim, 528 Guinness Storehouse (Dub- the Fermanagh Lakelands, Shannon and Clare, 373 lin), 150–151 562 Sligo, 451 Gus O’Connor’s Pub (Doolin), Galway, 401 south County Cork, 389 Kildare, 206 289–290 Gweedore (Gaoth Dobhair), Killarney, 329 the Sperrins, 556 476 Leitrim, 459 Limerick, 357 International Gay and Les- James Joyce Museum (San- 581 Meath, 214 bian Travel Association dycove), 180 the Mourne Mountains, (IGLTA), 63 Jameson Heritage Centre 535 International Museum of (Midleton), 295 Sligo, 451 Wine (Kinsale), 288 Japanese Gardens (Kildare), the Sperrin Mountains, 556 International Puppet Festival 204 Tipperary, 250 (Monkstown), 45 Jenny Vander (Dublin), 167 Tralee, 347 International Student Iden- Jerpoint Abbey (near Thom- Waterford, 243 tity Card (ISIC), 65 aston), 256 Wexford, 232 International Youth Travel Jerpoint Abbey (near Thom- Wicklow County, 195–196 Card (IYTC), 66 astown), 260–261 Horse racing Internet access, 72, 567 Jerpoint Glass Studio Cork, 281 Inverin (Indreabhán), 410 (Stoneyford), 262 Dublin, 164 Ionad An Bhlascaoid Mhoir/ Jet lag, 49 Galway, 400 The Blasket Centre (Din- JFK Trust Dunbrody (New Kilbeggan (County West- gle), 338 Ross), 229 meath), 428 Ionad Arann (Inishmore), 405 John Barry Monument (Wex- Killarney, 330 Irish Agricultural Museum ford Town), 224–225 Tralee, 348 and Famine Exhibition John Cleere’s (Kilkenny), 267 Howth, 162, 182 (Wexford), 227–228 John F. Kennedy Arboretum Howth Castle Rhododendron Irish Antique Dealers’ Fair (New Ross), 228–229 Gardens, 183 (Dublin), 45 John Henchy & Sons (Cork), Hugh Lane Municipal Gallery Irish Cycling Safaris, 94 284 of Modern Art (Dublin), Irish Cycling Tours, 94 John Hewitt Bar & Restaurant 147 Irish Derby (Curragh), (Belfast), 513 Hunting, Wicklow County, 203–204 John Molloy (Ardara), 478 196 Irish Famine Museum Johnnie Fox’s (Rathdrum), Huntington Castle (Clone- (Strokestown), 458 202 gal), 190–191 Irish Film Centre (Dublin), Joseph Knox (Waterford Hunt Museum (Limerick), 150 City), 242 354–355 Irish Landmark Trust, 77, 508 Joyce, James Irish Linen Centre and Lis- Centre (Dublin), 156 Iarnród Éireann (Irish Rail), burn Museum (Lisburn), Museum (Sandycove), 180 53–54 521 Ulysses, 43–44, 156, Iberia, 47–48 Irish Museum of Modern Art 170, 171 Ilnacullin (Garinish Island), (IMMA; Dublin), 150 298, 300–301 Irish National Heritage Park Kate’s Kitchen/Hopper & Inch Strand, 339 (Wexford Town), 224 Pettit (Sligo), 447 Inchydoney Beach, 302 Irish National Stud (Kildare), Kayaking, 102, 164, 243, 303, Indreabhán (Inverin), 410 204 304, 438 Inishbofin, 415 The Irish Pewtermill (Timolin- Kebble National Nature Inishmore, 405 Moone), 204 Reserve (Rathlin Island), Inishmurray, 448 The Irish President’s House 527 Inishowen Peninsula, (Aras an Uachtaráin; Dub- Kebble National Reserve, 525 483–487 lin), 142 Kehoe’s (Dublin), 172 Inis Meain (Inishmaan), 404 Irish Rail (Iarnród Éireann), Kells (County Kilkenny), 256 Inis Mór (Inishmore), 404 53–54 Kells (County Meath), Inis Oirr (Inisheer), 404, 406 Irish Wheelchair Association, 209–210 Inistioge, 4, 256 61–62 Kells Priory (County Kilk- Innisfallen, 322 Itineraries, suggested, 80–92 enny), 261 Insurance, 566–567 Iveragh Peninsula, 312–321 Kelly’s (Waterford City), 242 International Association for Kenmare, 4, 314, 316 Medical Assistance to Trav- Jack Meade (Halfway Kenmare Bookshop, 317 elers (IAMAT), 59 House), 246–247 Kenmare Druid Circle, 316 International Bar (Dublin), Jagoes Mill Pottery (Kinsale), Kenmare Golf Club, 318 176 289 Kennedy, John F., JFK Trust The International Ecotourism James Joyce Centre (Dublin), Dunbrody (New Ross), 229 Society (TIES), 66 156 Kennedy’s Pet Farm (Killar- ney), 326 582 Kenny’s Book Shop and Gal- spectator sports, 330 Lahinch Golf Club, 387 leries Ltd. (Galway), 401 sports and outdoor activi- Lahinch Seaworld and Lei- Kerry, County, 312–351 ties, 328–330 sure Centre (Lahinch), Kerry Bog Village Museum traveling to, 322–323 385–386 (Glenbeigh), 316 visitor information, 324 Lake Isle of Innisfree, 450 Kerry Literary and Cultural Killarney Art Gallery, 328 Lambert Puppet Theatre Centre (Listowel), 346 Killarney Bookshop, 328 (Dublin), 158 Kerry Literary & Cultural Cen- Killarney National Park, 96, Lambert Puppet Theatre and tre Writer’s Museum 322, 325, 328, 329 Museum (Dublin), 159 (Listowel), 346 Killarney Park Hotel, spa at, Languages, 28, 567 Kerry the Kingdom (Tralee), 331 Larchill Arcadian Garden (Kil- 346 Killarney Racecourse, 330 cock), 204 Kerry Way, 318, 330 Killarney SummerFest, 44 Lavitts Quay Gallery (Cork), Kevin & Howlin (Dublin), 167 Killary Adventure Company 279 Kilbeggan Racecourse (Leenane), 103 Laytown, 210 (Loughnagore), 428 Killiney (Dublin), 159 Legananny Dolmen (Slieve Kilcar (Cill Chártha), 467, Killiney Hill, 164 Croob), 517 472–474 Killorglin, 314 Leinster, Mount, 227 Kilcolgan, 406 Killruddery House & Gardens Leinster House (Dublin), 155 Kildare, County, 203–208 (Bray), 191 Leitrim, County, 455–456 Kildare Hotel & Country Club Killybegs (Ceala Beaga), 467, Leopardstown National Hunt (K Club; Straffan), 205 472–475 Festival (Dublin), 46 Kilfane Glen and Waterfall, Kilmainham Gaol Historical Leopardstown Race Course 261 Museum (Dublin), 147–148 (Dublin), 164 Kilkea Castle Golf Club (Cas- Kilmore Quay, 232 Lesbian Line Dublin, 63 tledermot), 206 Kilmurray Bay at Minard, 339 Letterfrack (Leitir Fraic), 413 Kilkenny, County, 255–268 Kiltealy, 227 Lettergesh, 413 Kilkenny Arts Festival, Kincora, 370 Letterkenny (Leitir Cean- 44–45, 267 King John’s Castle (Limerick), ainn), 484 Kilkenny Castle, 8, 258–259 352, 355–356 Lewis Glucksman Museum Kilkenny City, 255–268 Kinsale, 4, 286 (Cork), 280 accommodations, 263–265 Kinsale Crystal, 289 Liam Costigan (Kilkenny), exploring, 258–260 Kinsale Golf Club, 290 262 getting around, 256, 258 Kinsale International Gour- Lillie’s Bordello (Dublin), 175 Internet access, 258 met Festival, 45–46 Limavady, 546 layout of, 256 Kinsale Jazz Festival, 46 Limerick Christmas Racing nightlife, 267–268 Kinsale Regional Museum, Festival, 46 organized tours, 260 288 Limerick City and environs, restaurants, 266–267 Kinsale Silver, 289 352–364 shopping, 261–262 KLM, 47 accommodations, 357–358 sports and outdoor activi- Knappogue Castle & Walled getting around, 354 ties, 262–263 Gardens (Quin), 372 nightlife, 359–360 traveling to, 256 Knockmealdown Drive, restaurants, 359 visitor information, 256 247–248 shopping, 356–357 Kilkenny Crystal, 261 Knocknarea, 448 side trips from, 360–364 Kilkenny Design Craft Centre, Knockreer Estate (Killarney), sights and attractions, 262 325 354–357 Kilkenny Golf Club, 263 Knowth (Drogheda), 210–212 sports and outdoor activi- Killala (Cill Alaidh or Cill Ala), Kremlin (Belfast), 514–515 ties, 357 434–435 Kylemore Abbey (Kylemore), traveling to, 353 Killaloe, 370 414 visitor information, 354 Killarney, 314, 322–335 Kyteler’s Inn (Kilkenny), Limerick City Gallery of Art, accommodations, 330–334 255–256, 268 356 getting around, 324 Limerick Museum, 356 layout of, 324 Lace House (Glencolumb- Liquid (Galway), 403 organized tours, 327 kille), 472–473 Lisburn, 521 pubs, 334–335 Lagan Weir & Visitors Center Lisdoonvarna, 380, 383 shopping, 328 (Belfast), 502 Lisdoonvarna Matchmaking sights and attractions, Lahinch, 384 Festival, 45 325–327 Lismore Castle, 241 Maherabeg, 340 Millmount Museum and Mar- 583 Lismore Heritage Centre, 241 Mahon Falls, 242 tello Tower (Drogheda), Lissadell House (Drumcliff), Mail, 568 216–217 449–450 Mainly Murder (Cork), 282 Minder Finders (Dublin), 159 Listowel, 346 Major Tom’s (Dublin), 174 Mizen Head Peninsula, 302 Literary landmarks, best, Malahide, 162, 182 Mizen Vision, 301–302 10–11 Malahide Castle, 158, 183 Model Arts Centre and The Living Tradition (Cork), Malahide estuary, 162 Niland Gallery (Sligo), 444, 282 Malin (Málainn), 484 446 Locke’s Distillery Museum Malin Head (Cionn Mhé- Molly Malone, 151 (Kilbeggan), 426 lanna), 479, 484 Monaghan’s (Dublin), 168 The Long Hall (Dublin), 172 The Mall (Armagh), 523 Monasterboice (near Collon), The Long Valley (Cork), 284 Mallow Race Track, 281 217 Lord Kingsale, 293 Mange2 (Wexford), 235 Money and costs, 57–59 Lost and found, 567–568 Mansion House (Dublin), 153 Moone High Cross, 205 LOT (Lesbians Organizing Marble Arch Caves (Marl- The Moone High Cross Inn, Together), 63 bank), 561 208 Loughcrew, 9 Marble City Bar and Tea Moore Street Market (Dub- Loughcrew (near Oldcastle), Rooms (Kilkenny), 268 lin), 169 212 The Market Bar (Dublin), 175 Mossy Woods Nature Trail, Lough Derg, 374, 462 Markets 329 Lough Derg Drive, 370 Dublin, 169 Mount Juliet Golf and Coun- Lough Erne, 557, 558, Limerick, 356 try Club (Thomastown), 560–564 Marlfield Lake Wildfowl 263 The Lough Gill Drive, 450 Refuge, 250 Mountshannon, 370 Lough Gur, 9 Marsh’s Library (Dublin), Mount Stewart House (New- Lough Gur Interpretive Cen- 155–156 townards), 517–518 tre (Lough Gur), 361 Mary Gibbons Tours, 70 Mount Temple Golf Club Lough Inagh, 418 Mary McDonnell Craft Studio (Moate), 428 Lough Ine, 303 (Slane), 214 Mount Usher Gardens (Ash- Lough Key Forest Park (near MasterCard, traveler’s ford), 191 Boyle), 457–458 checks, 58 The Mourne Mountains, Lough Neagh, 521–522 Maum Ean Oratory, 418 532–538 Lough Neagh Discovery Cen- May Day Races (Lisburn), 43 Moville (Bun an Phobail), 483 tre (Craigavon), 522 Mayo, County, 432–443 Moyle Way, 528 Louise Kennedy (Dublin), 168 Mayo North Heritage Centre Moyne Abbey, 435 Louis Mulcahy (Dublin), 166 (Ballina), 436 M. Quirke (Sligo), 448 Louis Mulcahy Pottery (Bally- Meadows & Byrne (Cork), 282 MTM (Derry), 547 ferriter), 339 Meath, County, 209–218 Muckross Abbey (Killarney), Louth, County, 209–218 Medical insurance, 566 325 Lufthansa, 48 Medieval banquets, 372, 379, Muckross House and Gar- Lughnasa Fair (Carrickfergus 403–404, 407 dens (Killarney), 325 Castle), 44 The Meetings (Avoca), 202 Muckross Traditional Farms Lynch Memorial Window Mellifont Abbey (Tullyallen), (Killarney), 325–326 (Galway), 390 215–216 Mucros Craft Centre (Killar- Lynch’s Castle (Galway), 390 Melody Maker Music Shop ney), 328 Lyric Theatre (Belfast), 514 (Donegal), 464 Muiredach Cross (Monaster- Merchant’s Quay Shopping boice), 216 McDaid’s, 172 Centre (Cork), 282 The Munster (Waterford), Mac Eocagain/Galway Wool- Merrion Square (Dublin), 158 247 len Market, 402 Mezza(nine) at Robinson’s Murlough Bay, 525 McGann’s, 389 (Belfast), 513 Murphy’s Cat Laughs Com- MacGillycuddy’s Reeks, The midlands, 80 edy Festival (Kilkenny), 43 5, 329, 330 Milk Bar Club (Belfast), 513 Murphy’s Cork International McKernan Scarves, 373 Millars Connemara Tweed Film Festival, 46 Magee of Donegal Ltd. Ltd. (Clifden), 416 Music, 34 (Donegal), 464 Millennium Forum (Derry), traditional Irish, 172. See Maghera, 473 552 also specific pubs Magheroarty, 479 Millennium Spire (Dublin), 151 584 Music Festival in Great Irish Nire Valley Drive, 247 Old Railway Line, 282 Houses, 43 Nora Barnacle House (Gal- Old Town: 1660–1685 (Bel- Muskry, Lake, 251 way), 399 fast), 498 Mutton Lane Mural (Cork), North Bull, 162 Oliver St. John Gogarty (Dub- 279 Northern Ireland, 80, lin), 173 488–564. See also Belfast O’Mahoney’s (Limerick), 357 Na Blascaodaí (Blasket business hours, 494 O’Máille (O’Malley; Galway), Islands), 337 currency, 494 402 Naran, 476 electricity, 494 O’Neill’s (Dublin), 172 Narin & Portnoo Golf Club, embassies, 494 Ormeau Baths Gallery (Bel- 479 emergencies, 494 fast), 502 National Botanic Gardens getting around in, 493–494 Ormond Castle (Carrick-on- (Glasnevin), 184 history of, 488–489 Suir), 249 National Concert Hall (Dub- mail, 494 Oughterard Golf Club, 418 lin), 179 parking, 494 Outdoor activities, 93–105 National Gallery of Ireland police, 494 Outhouse (Dublin), 176–177 (Dublin), 148 safety, 495 Outhouse Community & National Heritage Week, 45 sectarian politics in, 501 Resource Centre National Lesbian and Gay suggested itinerary, 87–91 (Dublin), 63 Federation (NLGF), 63 taxes, 495 Oxegen (Punchestown Race- National Library of Ireland telephone, 495 course), 44 (Dublin), 156 traveling to, 492–493 Oysterhaven Activity Centre National Museum of Ireland visitor information, 38, 492 (near Kinsale), 290 (Dublin), 148 what’s new in, 2–3 National parks, 96 The North Shannon Valley, Package tours, 68–69 National Photographic 455–460 Paddy’s Pub (Terryglass), 380 Archive (Dublin), 156 The northwest, 80 Padraig Pearse Cottage, 410 National Sea Life Centre North West Golf Club (Bun- Pairc Ui Chaoimh Stadium (Bray), 159, 191 crana), 485 (Cork), 281 The National 1798 Visitor Number Twenty Nine (Dub- Pan Celtic Festival (County Centre (Enniscorthy), lin), 157 Donegal), 42–43 229–230 Panti Bar (Dublin), 177 National Shrine of Our Lady Oakland Antiques (Belfast), Parke’s Castle (Lough Gill of Knock/Church of the 504 Dr.), 450 Apparition (Knock), Oak Tavern (Ferrycarrig), 236 Parking, 53 436–437 Octagon Bar (Dublin), 175 Passports, 38, 568–569 Natural wonders, best, 5 O’Dalaigh Jeweller (Clifden), Patrick’s Bed, 418 Navan, 209 416–417 Patrick Street (Cork), 282 Navan Fort (Armagh), 9, 523 O’Doherty’s Keep, 484 The Peacock (Dublin), 178 Neary’s (Dublin), 172 O’Donoghue’s (Dublin), 173 Peatlands Park (The Birches), Nenagh, 370 Odyssey Complex (Belfast), 523–524 Nendrum Monastic Site 502, 514 Penrose Crystal (Waterford (Comber), 518 The Odyssey Complex (Bel- City), 242 Newbridge Cutlery, 205 fast), 509 Phoenix Park (Dublin), Newbridge House and Park Offaly, County, 424–431 148, 158 (Donabate), 184 Old Abbey (Donegal), 464 Plantation of Ulster Visitor Newcastle, 532 Old Boat House Nature Trail, Centre (Draperstown), 555 Newgrange, 9, 209, 212 329 P. McCormack and Sons (Dún Newgrange Farm (near Old Bushmills Distillery, Laoghaire), 182 Slane), 212–213 525, 527 The Point Depot (Dublin), Newman House (Dublin), 155 Old English Market (Cork), 179 Newmarket-on-Fergus, 279 Police, 569 367, 374, 375 Old Head Golf Links, 289 Political tours, 70 Newspapers and magazines, The Old Jameson Distillery Poll na gColm (near Lisdoon- 568 (Dublin), 151–152 varna), 385 Nicholas Mosse Pottery (Ben- Old Mellifont Abbey (Collon), Polo, 164 nettsbridge), 262 217 Pony trekking, North Antrim, 1916 Rebellion Walking Tour The Old Midleton Distillery/ 528 (Dublin), 161 Jameson Heritage Centre, Portaferry Castle, 518 295 Portaferry Tourist Informa- Reservations, hotel, 75 St. Brigid’s Cathedral (Kildare 585 tion Office, 516 Restaurants, 34–35. See also Town), 205, 206 The Porterhouse (Dublin), Restaurants Index St. Canice Cathedral 172 best, 15–16 (Kilkenny), 259 Portmarnock beach, 162 green, 67 St. Colmcille’s House (Kells), Portmarnock Golf Club, 163 Restaurants boating (boat 213 Portnoo, 476 rentals), the Fermanagh St. Columb’s Cathedral Portrush, 525 Lakelands, 562 (Derry), 544 Portsalon Golf Club, 479 Rhinestones (Dublin), 168 St. Eugene’s Cathedral Portstewart Golf Club, 528 Ring of Kerry, 312, 314–321 (Derry), 546 Portumna, 370 Rí-Rá (Dublin), 175 St. Fiachra’s Garden (Kildare), Portumna Castle, 426–427 River Lee, 281 204 Portumna Forest Park, River Nore, 263 St. Fin Barre’s Cathedral 374, 427 River Suir, 250 (Cork), 279 Portumna Golf Club, 428 Road rules, 51 St. Francis Abbey Brewery Potcheen, 368 Rockabill Island, 162 (Kilkenny), 259 Poulnabrone Dolmen, 382 Rock of Cashel, 249–250 St. George’s Market (Belfast), Powerscourt Gardens, House Rogerstown estuary, 162 504 Exhibition, and Waterfall Rosapenna Golf Club (Down- St. Iberius Church (Wexford), (Enniskerry), 191–192 ings), 479 225 Powerscourt Townhouse Cen- Roscommon, County, 455 St. Kevin’s Way, 196 tre (Dublin), 166 Rose of Tralee, 347 St. Margaret’s Golf & Country P. Powell and Sons (Galway), Rose of Tralee International Club, 163 402 Festival, 45 St. Mary’s Cathedral P. T. Murphy (Kilkenny), 262 Rosguill, 477 Killarney, 326 Pubs, 16, 35–36. See also Ros Muc, 410 Limerick, 356 Pubs Index Rossaveal (Ros an Mhíl), 410 St. Mary’s Pro-Cathedral Puckane, 370, 377 Ross Castle (Killarney), 326 (Dublin), 152 Puckane Crafts (Nenagh), Rosserk Abbey, 435 St. Michan’s Church (Dublin), 373 Rosses, 476 152 Puck Fair (Killorglin), 45, 314 Rossmore Country Pottery, St. Mullin’s Monastery (St. The Purty Kitchen (Dún 302 Mullins), 192–193 Laoghaire), 182 Rossnowlagh (Ross Neam- St. Nicholas Collegiate blach), 467, 468, 470, 471 Church (Galway), 390 Queen’s University (Bel- Rothe House (Kilkenny), 259 St. Nicholas’ Collegiate fast), 502–503 Roundstone (Cloch na Rón), Church (Galway), 399 Quills Woolen Market 413 St. Patrick Heritage Centre/ Cork, 283 Royal Avenue (Belfast), 503 Down County Museum Kenmare, 317 Royal Dublin Golf Club, 163 (Downpatrick), 521 Killarney, 328 Royal Portrush Golf Club, 528 St. Patrick’s Cathedral (Dub- Macroom, 302 RSPB West Lighthouse View- lin), 148–149 point (Rathlin Island), 527 St. Patrick’s Church of Ireland Raheen Woods, 374 Russborough House (Bless- Cathedral (Armagh), 524 Rail Pass Express, 54 ington), 192, 193 St. Patrick’s Day Parades, 42 Railway Bar (Clonmel), 255 Ryanair, 47, 48 St. Patrick’s Dublin Rathlin Island, 525, 527 Festival, 42 Rathmelton (Ráth Mealtain), Safety concerns, 60–61 St. Patrick’s Roman Catholic 477 Sailing, 102–104 Cathedral (Armagh), 524 Rathmullan (Ráth Maoláin), Connemara, 419 St. Patrick’s Trian Visitor 477 Dingle, 340 Complex (Armagh), 524 Raven Nature Reserve, 232 Dublin, 164 St. Patrick’s Well, 250 Red Bank House (Skerries), Newcastle, 535 St. Patrick Visitor Centre 185 south County Cork, 290 (Downpatrick), 520 Red Hand of Ulster, 504 Waterford, 243 St. Peter’s Church of Ireland Reginald’s Tower (Waterford West Cork, 303 (Drogheda), 217 City), 239 Wexford, 232 St. Stephen’s Green (Dublin), Regions of Ireland, 79–80 St. Anne’s Church (Cork), 279 158 Rent an Irish Cottage, St. Audeon’s Church (Dublin), St. Teresa’s Church (Dublin), 74, 376–377 152 152–153 586 Salthill (Bóthar na Trá), 409 Skellig Michael, 315 Strokestown Park House, Sámas spa (Kenmare), 331 Skerries, 182 Gardens, and Famine Samhlaíocht Chiarrai/Kerry Skerries Mills, 184 Museum, 458 Arts Festival, 42 Skibbereen, 298 Student travel, 65–66 Sandymount Strand, 162 Slane Castle, 213 Studio Donegal (Glebe Mill), SAS, 48 Slea Head, 337 473 Sawel Mountain, 556 Slea Head Drive, 337 Suck Valley Way, 458 Sawel Mountain Drive, 556 Slieve Bloom Way, 5, 374 Sugar Night Club (Derry), Scattery Island (Kilrush), 386 Slieve Donard, 532 553 Scilly Walk, 290 Slieve League, 5, 472, 473 Suir Scenic Drive, 248 Sciuird Archaeological Slievenamon, 251 Surfing, 387, 470, 485 Adventures (Dingle), 339 Slieve Russell Hotel Golf Club Sustainable tourism, 66–68 Scuba diving, 104 (Ballyconnell), 458 Sutton Beach (near Dublin), the Ards Peninsula, 518 Sligo Abbey, 446 162 Connemara, 417 Sligo County Museum, 446 Swift, Jonathan, 149 the Dingle Peninsula, 340 Sligo Craft Pottery, 448 Swimming, 250, 374, 410 West Cork, 303 Sligo Town and environs, Swiss Cottage (Cahir), 250 Wexford, 231 2, 443–455 Seafari Eco-nature Cruises Smoking, 569 Taibhdhearc Theatre (Gal- and Seal-Watching Trips Smyth’s Irish Linens (Belfast), way), 404 (Kenmare), 316 504 Taipeis Gael (Glencolumb- Sea kayaking. See Kayaking Sneem, 315 kille), 473 Seasons, 41 The southeast, 79, 219–268 T. & H. Doolan (Waterford), Self-catering accommoda- The southwest, 79 247 tions, 74, 77. See also The Spaniard Inn (Kinsale), The Tara Brooch, 210 Accommodations Index 293–294 Tara-Skryne Valley, proposed Selskar Abbey (Wexford), Spanish Arch (Galway), 390 motorway in, 211 225 Spas, Kerry, 331 Taste of Ireland (Dublin), 43 Senior travel, 63–64 Spa Wells Centre (Lisdoon- Tatler Jack (Killarney), 335 Serendipity (Killarney), 328 varna), 382 Taxes, 569 Shandon Craft Centre (Cork), Sperrin Heritage Centre Teampall na Slellig, 190 282–283 (Cranagh), 555 Telephones, 70–71 Shankill Road (Belfast), 503 The Sperrin Mountains, Temple Bar Book Market Shannon Airport, 2 553–557 (Dublin), 169 Shannon Crystal (Ennis), 372 Spiddal (An Spidéal), Temple Bar Food Market Shannon-Erne Waterway, 409–412 (Dublin), 169 557–558 Spy Club (Dublin), 175 Temple Bar Gallery and Stu- Shannon Golf Club, 373–374 SS Dunbrody Emigrant Ship dios (Dublin), 150 Share Holiday Village (Lis- (New Ross), 230 Terryglass, 370 naskea), 558, 562–563 Stag’s Head (Dublin), 172 Tholsel (Kilkenny), 256 Shaw, George Bernard, 300 Staigue Fort, 315 Thoor Ballylee (Gort), 407 Shaw Birthplace (Dublin), Standún (Spiddal), 410 Tierney’s (Clonmel), 255 156–157 STA Travel, 54, 66 TIES (The International Ecot- Sheen Falls Lodge (Kenmare), Steam Museum (Straffan), ourism Society), 66 spa at, 331 205 Time zone, 569 Sheep’s Head Loop, 298 The Steensons (Belfast), 504 Tintern Abbey (New Ross), Sheep’s Head Peninsula, 302 The Steensons (Glenarm), 226, 230 Sheep’s Head Way, 305 528 Tipperary, County, 247–255 Siamsa Tire (Tralee), 351 Stephen Pearce Pottery Tipping, 569 Síla Mag Aoide Designs (Shanagarry), 296 Toilets, 569–570 (Sheila Magee; Round- Stoneware Jackson (Ben- Tom Caldwell Gallery (Bel- stone), 417 nettsbridge), 262 fast), 504 Silent Valley Reservoir, 532 Strand (Derry), 553 Tone, Wolfe, 27, 151, 228 Sinnotts (Dublin), 174 Strandhill, 448 Torc Mountain, 329 Six Nations Rugby Tourna- Strandhill Golf Club, 451 Torc Waterfall, 329 ment (Ballsbridge), 42 Strangford Lough, 516 Torr Head Scenic Road, 525 The Skellig Experience (Val- Stranorlar, 484 Tower Craft Design Centre entia Island), 316 Strokestown, 459 (Dublin), 166 The Skellig Islands, 317 Tower Museum (Derry), 546 Waterford City Walking Tour, 587 Trabeg Beach, 340 Valentia, 315 241 Traditional Music Shop Vale of Avoca, 193–194 Waterford Crystal Factory (Doolin), 386 Vaughn’s (Kilfenora), 384 and Visitor Centre, 240 Traffic (Dublin), 175 VBT, 94 Waterford Golf Club Traighmore Strand, 479 Vee Gap, 248, 251 (Newrath), 243 Train travel, 53–54 Verbal Arts Centre (Derry), Waterford Heritage Genea- Tralee, 345–351 552 logical Centre, 240 Tralee-Blennerville Steam Vicar Street (Dublin), Waterford Maritime Train (Tralee), 347 175, 178 Festival, 43 Tralee Golf Club, 347 Vikings, 23–24 Waterford Pottery and the Tralee Racecourse, 348 Viking Splash Tour (Dublin), Dyehouse Gallery, 240 Tramore, 479 158, 160 Waterford Treasures at the Transportation, 50–54 Viking Tours, Athlone, 427 Granary Museum, 240 Transportation Security The Village (Dublin), 178 Waterfront Hall (Belfast), 514 Administration (TSA), 39 Vinegar Hill, 229 Watergate Theatre (Kilk- Travel CUTS, 66 Visa, traveler’s checks, 58 enny), 267 Traveler’s checks, 58–59 Visas, 38 Watersports. See also specific Traveling to Ireland, 47–50 Visitor information, 37–38 sports Travel insurance, 566–567 Voice over Internet Protocol Achill Island, 439 Treasure Chest (Galway), 402 (VoIP), 71 Connemara, 419 Trim Castle, 8, 213–214 Volunteer travel, 66–68 Dublin, 164 Trinity College (Dublin), Voodoo Lounge (Dublin), 175 Fermanagh Lakelands, 149–150 Voxbox (Derry), 553 562–563 Triskel Arts Centre (Cork), Inishowen Peninsula, 485 285 Walking and hiking, 95–97. Limerick and Clare, 373 Tulle (Dublin), 168 See also specific parks and south County Cork, 290 Tullynally Castle and Gar- trails (ways) Wicklow County, 196 dens (Castlepollard), 427 the Atlantic Highlands, 479 Waterstone’s Booksellers The Twelve Bens, 5 the Burren, 381 (Cork), 282 Twice as Nice (Galway), 402 Connemara, 415, 418–419 Waterville, 315 The Twin Churches: Church of Cork, 282 Waterville Golf Links, the Assumption and Derry, 547 317–318 Church of the Immaculate Dingle Peninsula, 341–342 Weather, 41 Conception (Wexford), 225 Donegal, 465 The Weavers’ Shop (Dingle), Tynan’s Bridge House (Kilk- Dublin, 163–164 339 enny), 268 Fermanagh Lakelands, 562 Websites, 16–17, 72 Kildare, 206 Wee House of Malin, 484 UK Air, 47 Killarney, 329 Wehrly Bros. Ltd (Sligo), 448 Ulster American Folk Park Limerick and Clare, 374 Weir and Sons (Dublin), 168 (Omagh), 555 Mayo, 438–439 Wellington Bridge, 226 Ulster Folk & Transport North Antrim Coast, 528 The west, 79–80 Museum (Cultra), 516 northern Donegal Bay, West Cork, 298–311 Ulster Hall (Belfast), 514 473–474 The Western Way, 418 Ulster Museum (Belfast), 503 Ring of Kerry, 318 Westgate Design (Wexford), Ulster Way, 479, 562 south County Cork, 290 231 Ulysses (Joyce), 43–44, the Sperrin Mountains, 556 Westgate Heritage Tower 156, 170, 171 Tipperary, 251 (Wexford), 225 United Vacations, 68 West Cork, 303, 305 Westmeath, County, 424–431 University College, Cork Wexford, 232 Westport (Cathair na Mairt), (U.C.C.), 280 Wicklow County, 196 434 University Concert Hall (Lim- Walk Macabre (Dublin), 161 Westport Golf Club, 438 erick), 360 Waterford, County, 236–247 Westport House, 437 Upstairs (Limerick), 360 Waterford Castle Golf and Wexford, County, 219–236 USIT, 66 Country Club (Ballinakill), Wexford Arts Centre, 236 Utopia (Belfast), 504 243 Wexford Coastal Path, 232 Waterford City, 236–247 Wexford County Museum (Enniscorthy), 227 588 Wexford Festival Opera, The Workhouse (near Dunfa- An Oige Youth Hostel (Cape 46, 235–236 naghy), 478 Clear Island), 304 Wexford Silver, 231 The Workhouse Museum and Aran View House (Doolin), Wexford Town, 219–236 Library (Derry), 546 387–388 exploring, 224–230 Workshops Collective (Bel- Ardeen (Ramelton), 481 getting around, 222–223 fast), 505 Ard na Gaoith (Cape Clear layout of, 222 World Irish Dancing Champi- Island), 304 traveling to, 219, 222 onships (Belfast), 43 Ard-na-Mara (Rossnowlagh), visitor information, 222 The Wren’s Nest (Wexford), 471 Wexford Wildfowl Reserve, 236 Arnold’s Hotel (Dunfanaghy), 225 480 Whale-watching, Kinsale, 290 Yeats, W. B., 147, 406, 407, Ashford Castle (Cong), Wheelchair accessibility, 450, 452, 502 439–440 61–62 Grave (Drumcliff), 449 Ash Rowan (Belfast), Whelan’s (Dublin), 174, 178 Memorial Building (Sligo), 508–509 Whichcraft (Dublin), 167 446 Avalon House (Dublin), Whitefriar Street Carmelite Yeats Winter School 125–126 Church (Dublin), 153 (Sligo), 42 Ballealy Cottage (near Bel- The White House (Kinsale), YHANI (Youth Hostels Associ- fast), 508 294 ation of Northern Ballinalacken Castle Country White Park Bay, 525 Ireland), 75 House (Doolin), 388 Wicker Man (Belfast), 503 Yola Farmstead (near Wex- Ballinatona Farm (Millstreet), Wicklow, County, 187–202 ford), 230 307 accommodations, 196–201 Yola Farmstead (Tagoat), 236 Ballinkeele House (Enniscor- pubs, 202 Youghal, 294 thy), 233–234 restaurants, 201–202 Youghal Pottery, 296 Ballycastle House (New- shopping, 194–195 Youth hostels, 74–75 townards), 519 sights and attractions, Ballyduff House (Thomas- 188–194 town), 264–265 sports and outdoor activi- ACCOMMODATIONS Ballygarry House Hotel (Tra- ties, 195–196 The Abbey (Donegal), lee), 348 traveling to, 188 465–466 Ballylickey Manor House, visitor information, 188 Abbey Gate Hotel (Tralee), 305–306 Wicklow Arts Festival, 43 348 Ballyliffin Self Catering, 486 Wicklow Mountains National Abbeyglen Castle (Clifden), Ballymaloe House (Midle- Park, 96, 194 419 ton), 296 Wicklow’s Historic Gaol, 194 Abbey House (Thomastown), Ballymascanlon House Hotel Wicklow Way, 196 264 (Dundalk), 217–218 Wi-Fi access, 72 Abbey Villa (near Adare), 363 Ballynahinch Castle (Recess), Wilderness Gorge, 251 Abbott Lodge (Dublin), 128 419–420 Wilderness trips, 70 Adare Manor, 361 Ballyseede Castle Hotel (Tra- William Britton & Sons Aghadoe Heights Hotel & lee), 348 (Donegal), 464 Spa (Killarney), 330–331 Baltimore Harbour Hotel, Wilson Ancestral Home (Stra- Ahakista (Sheep’s Head Pen- 306 bane), 555 insula), 309 Bansha House, 253 The Winding Stair (Galway), Aherne’s Townhouse and Barberstown Castle (Straf- 401 Restaurant (Youghal), 296 fan), 207 Windsurfing, 105 An Bohreen (Dungarvan), Barnabrow Country House Achill Island, 439 244 (Midleton), 297 the Dingle Peninsula, 342 Anglesea Town House (Dub- Barnacle’s Quay Street House Dublin, 164 lin), 130 (Galway), 396 Waterford, 243 Anne’s Grove Medieval Barnagh Bridge Country West Cork, 305 Miniature Castle Guesthouse (Camp), 349 Women travelers, 65 (Castleownroach), 309 The Bastion (Athlone), Woodford, 370 An Oige Glendaloch Interna- 429–430 Woodford Mummers Feile, 46 tional Hostel (Glendal- Bayview Hotel (Ballycotton), The Woolen Mills Glendal- ough), 199 296–297 ough (Laragh), 195 Bay View Hotel (Killybegs), 474 Beech Hill Country House Clare Villa (Galway), 396 Dufferin Coaching Inn (Killy- 589 Hotel (Derry), 547 The Clarion Hotel Dublin leagh), 536–537 Bellair Cottage (Glenarm), IFSC (Dublin), 127 Dundrum House Hotel, 252 530 Clarion Hotel Limerick (Lim- Dunraven Arms (Adare), 362 Belmore Court Motel (Enni- erick), 358 Dún Ulún House (Kilcar), 474 skillen), 563–564 Cloch na Scíth/Kellough The Dylan (Dublin), 128–130 Benners Hotel (Dingle), 342 Thatched Cottage (Spid- Earl’s Court House (Killar- The Bervie (near Keel), 441 dal), 411 ney), 332 Blindgate House (Kinsale), Clomantagh Castle (Fresh- Edenvale House (New- 291 ford), 265 townards), 519 The Blue Haven (Kinsale), Clonard House (Wexford), Egan’s House (Glasnevin), 291 234 185 Boyne Valley Hotel & Country Clone House (Aughrim), Eliza Lodge (Dublin), 121 Club (Drogheda), 218 197–198 Enniscoe House (Ballina), 440 Brandon Hotel (Tralee), Clone House (Enniscorthy), Errisbeg Lodge (Round- 348–349 234–235 stone), 422 Briers Country House (New- Clontarf Castle Hotel, Europa Hotel (Belfast), 506 castle), 536 184–185 Everglades Hotel (Derry), 548 BrookLodge Hotel & Wells Connemara Coast Hotel Fáilte (Cape Clear Island), Spa (Macreddin Village), (Furbo), 411 304 196 Connemara Gateway (Ough- Fergus View (Corofin), 383 Brooks Hotel (Dublin), 124 terard), 421 Fitzpatrick Castle Hotel (Kill- Broomhill Hotel (Derry), 548 Conrad Hotel (Dublin), iney), 180 Brosna Lodge Hotel 122–123 The Fitzwilliam Hotel (Dub- (Banagher), 429 Conyngham Arms Hotel lin), 123 Browne’s Townhouse (Dub- (Slane), 214 Fortgranite (Baltinglass), 200 lin), 124 Coopers Cottage (Bansha), Fort Royal Hotel (Rathmul- Brown’s Townhouse (Water- 254 lan), 480–481 ford), 244 Crescent Town House (Bel- Fortview House (Goleen), Bruckless House (Bruckless), fast), 509 308 474 Cromleach Lodge (Castle- Four Seasons (Dublin), 128 Bunratty Castle Hotel, 374 baldwin), 451 Foxmount Country House Bunratty Woods, 376 Cullintra House (Inistioge), (Waterford), 244 Burrendale Hotel and Coun- 265 Fuchsia House (Killarney), try Club (Newcastle), 536 Culloden Hotel (Belfast), 506 332 Bushmills Inn, 529 Days Hotel Waterford, The G (Galway), 394 Buswells Hotel (Dublin), 121 243–244 Galley Head Lightkeeper’s Butler House (Kilkenny), 264 Delphi Lodge (Leenane), 421 House, 309 Butlers Town House (Dublin), Derrybawn Mountain Lodge Galway Harbour Hotel, 395 130 (Laragh), 199 Garnish House (Cork), 274 The Captain’s House (Dingle), Derrynane Hotel (Caherdan- Ghan House (Carlingford), 343 iel), 319 218 Carlton Redcastle Hotel & Devondell (Galway), 396 Glassdrumman Lodge Coun- Spa (Moville), 485 Dingle Skellig Hotel, 342 try House and Restaurant Cashel House Hotel (Cashel), Dolphin Beach House (Annalong), 536 419 (Clifden), 422 Gleann Fia Country House Cashel Palace Hotel, 251–252 Donegal Thatched Cottages (Killarney), 332–333 Castle Grove (Letterkenny), (Rosses Point), 481–482 Glebe Country House (Ban- 480 Dooly’s Hotel (Birr), 429 don), 308 Castle Leslie (Glaslough), 563 Doonmacfelim Guest House, Glebe House (Dowth), 215 Castle Oaks House (Limer- 388 Glencairn Inn, 245 ick), 357–358 Doonmore Hotel (Inishbofin), Glenlo Abbey Hotel (Galway), Central Hotel (Dublin), 125 422 394 Cill Eoin House (Ennis), 376 Doyle’s Townhouse (Dingle), Glen Valley House and Sta- City Hotel (Derry), 548 342 bles (Leenane), 422–423 Clare Inn Resort Hotel (New- Drom Caoin (Belmullet), Glin Castle, 362 market-on-Fergus), 375 441–442 Grange Lodge (Dungannon), The Clarence (Dublin), 120 Dromoland Castle (Newmar- 556–557 Clarence House (Derry), 548 ket-on-Fergus), 374 Granville (Waterford), 244 590 Great Northern Hotel (Bun- Killyleagh Castle Towers, 519 Milltown House (Dingle), 343 doran), 470–471 Kilmaneen Farmhouse (New- Mobarnane House (Fethard), Greenmount House (Dingle), castle), 253 253 342–343 Kilmorey Arms Hotel (Kil- The Morgan (Dublin), 121 Greenmount Lodge (Omagh), keel), 537 The Morrison (Dublin), 126 557 Kilmurvey House (Inish- Mount Errigal (Letterkenny), Gregans Castle Hotel (Bally- more), 406 486 vaughan), 382 Lakeside Hotel (Killaloe), 375 Mount Falcon Castle (Ball- The Gresham (Dublin), 127 Lantern House ina), 440 The Gresham Metropole (Tuamgraney), 376 Mount Juliet Estate (Thomas- (Cork), 274 Lawcus Farm Guesthouse town), 263 Hannas Close (Kilkeel), 537 (Stonyford), 265 Mountshannon, 377 The Harbour Lodge (Kinsale), Londonderry Arms Hotel Moy House (Lahinch), 387 291 (Carnlough), 529 Mr. Bumbles (Clonmel), 253– Harvey’s Point Country Hotel Longueville House Hotel 254 (Donegal), 465 (Mallow), 306 Muckross Park Hotel (Killar- Hawthorn House (Kenmare), Loop Head Lightkeeper’s ney), 332 320 House, 388 The Mustard Seed at Echo Hayfield Manor Hotel (Cork), The Lord Bagenal Inn Lodge (near Adare), 362 273 (Leighlinbridge), 198 Myrtleville Oceanside The Heron’s Cove (Goleen), Lorum Old Rectory (Bagenal- Retreat, 297 308 stown), 198 The Newpark Hotel (Kilk- Hotel Europe (Killarney), Lotamore House (Cork), 275 enny), 264 331–332 Lough Inagh Lodge (Recess), Newport House Hotel, 440– Hotel Isaac (Cork), 274–275 420 441 Hotel Kilkenny, 263 Lough Rynn Castle (near Number 31, 124–125 Hotel Minella (Clonmel), 252 Mohill), 459 The Old Bank House (Kin- The House Hotel (Galway), Magherabuoy House Hotel sale), 291 394 (Portrush), 529 Old Ground Hotel (Ennis), Illauntannig Island Cottage Malmaison Belfast (Belfast), 375 (Castlegregory), 349–350 506, 508 The Old Inn (Belfast), 509 The Imperial Hotel (Cork), Malone Lodge Hotel (Bel- The Old Presbytery (Kinsale), 274 fast), 509 292 Isaac’s Hostel (Dublin), 128 Man of Aran Cottage (Kilro- Old School House Inn Iskeroon (Caherdaniel), 319 nan), 406 (Comber), 519–520 Jurys Cork Inn (Cork), 275 Manor House Country Hotel Ostán Na Rosann/Hotel of Jurys Inn Limerick (Limerick), (Enniskillen), 563 the Rosses (Dungloe), 481 358 Manor Kilbride, 200 The Park Hotel (Virginia), 460 Kathleen’s Country House Manor West Hotel (Tralee), Park Hotel Kenmare, 318 (Killarney), 333 349 Park House Hotel (Galway), Kelly’s Resort Hotel (Ross- Maranatha Country House 395 lare), 233 (Cork), 275–276 Pax Guest House (Dingle), Kenmare Bay, 319 Marine Hotel (Ballycastle), 343 Kerry Cottages (Castlegreg- 529 Portaferry Hotel, 519 ory), 350 Markree Castle (Collooney), Premier Suites Stephen’s Hall Kilcoran Lodge Hotel (Cahir), 451–452 (Dublin), 125 252 Marlfield House (Gorey), Radharc An Chlair (Inis Oirr), Kildare Hotel & Country Club 232–233 406 (Straffan), 206–207 McKevitts Village Hotel (Car- The Radisson SAS (Galway), Kilgraney Country House lingford), 218 395 (Bagenalstown), 198 McMenamin’s Townhouse Randles Court (Killarney), Kilkea Castle Hotel & Golf (Wexford), 235 333–334 Club (Castledermot), 207 The Meadows (Cushendall), Rathmullan House, 480 Kilkenny Ormonde Hotel, 530 Rathsallagh House Hotel & 264 Merchant Hotel (Belfast), Golf Club (Dunlavin), 197 Killarney Park Hotel, 330 505–506 Renvyle House, 420–421 Killarney Royal, 333 Merrion Hotel (Dublin), 126 Rhu-Gorse (Donegal), 466 Killeen House Hotel (Killar- Mill Park Hotel (Donegal), Riverside Park Hotel (Ennis- ney), 333 466 corthy), 234 Rock Cottage (Barnatoni- Talbot Hotel (Wexford), 233 Angela’s Wholefood Restau- 591 cane), 306 Tara Guesthouse (Laytown), rant (Clonmel), 254–255 Rock Glen Country House 215 Apartment (Belfast), 511 Hotel (Clifden), 422 Temple Bar Hotel (Dublin), Ardmore Room Restaurant Rolf’s Country House (Balti- 122 (Derry), 550 more), 308 Temple Country House & Spa Austie’s Bar and Restaurant Rosapenna Golf Hotel (Moate), 428 (Rosses Point), 453–454 (Downings), 481 Temple Gate Hotel (Ennis), Avoca Café (Dublin), 136 Ross Castle and House 376 Avoca Handweavers Tea (Mount Nugent), 460 Temple House (Ballymote), Shop (Avoca), 202 Rosturk Woods (Westport), 452 The Bad Ass Café (Dublin), 441 Ten Square (Belfast), 506 136–137 Roundwood House (Moun- Termon House (Maghery), Badger’s (Derry), 551 trath), 375–376 482 Ballymore Inn, 208 Royal Dublin Hotel (Dublin), Tinakilly Country House & Bang Café (Dublin), 139 127 Restaurant (Rathnew), 197 Barrtrá Seafood Restaurant Rusheen Lodge (Bally- Tower Hotel (Derry), 548–549 (Lahinch), 388–389 vaughan), 383 Travelodge (Derry), 549 Beatrice Kennedy’s (Belfast), The Saddlers House and the Trinity Lodge (Dublin), 125 510 Merchant’s House (Derry), Tudor Lodge (Laragh), Beginish (Dingle), 343–344 549 199–200 Blairs Cove (Durrus), 309–310 St. Cleran’s Manor House Tully Cottage (Glenarm), The Blue Bull (Sneem), 321 (Craughwell), 428 530–531 The Blue Haven (Kilcar), St. Ernan’s Country House The Twelve (Barna), 411 474–475 (Donegal), 465 25 Eustace Street, 122 The Blue Haven (Kinsale), Sallyport House (Kenmare), Tynte House (Dunlavin), 200 292 319–320 Walyunga (Kinsale), 292 Bodega! (Waterford), 245 Sanda (Glenariff), 530 Waterford Castle, 243 Bofey Quinn’s (Corofin), 384 Sandhouse Hotel (Rossnowl- Waterloo House (Dublin), 130 Boluisce, 412 agh), 471 Westbury (Dublin), 124 Bon Appetit (Malahide), Sarsfield Bridge Hotel (Lim- West Cork Hotel (Skibber- 185–186 erick), 358 een), 307 Bricín (Killarney), 334 Sea View House (Ballylickey), The Westin (Dublin), 120–121 Brogan’s (Ennis), 377 307 Westlodge Hotel (Bantry), Brown’s Bar and Brasserie Sheen Falls Lodge (Kenmare), 307 (Derry), 550 318–319 White Horse Hotel (Derry), Bunratty Castle, 379 The Shelbourne (Dublin), 549 Busker Brown’s (Galway), 398 123–124 Whitepark House (Ballintoy), Cafe Bar Deli (Sligo), 454 Shelburne Lodge (Kenmare), 529–530 Café Mao (Dublin), 138 320 Wicklow Head Lighthouse Café Paradiso (Cork), Sherwood Park House (Bal- (Wicklow), 200–201 276–277 lon), 199 Wineport Lodge (Glasson), Café Paul Rankin (Belfast), The Shores (Castlegregory), 429 511 349 Woodbrook House (Enniscor- Café Sol (Kilkenny), 266 Silver Springs Hotel (Cork), thy), 234 Casino House (Kilbrittain), 275 Yeats Country Hotel (Rosses 310 Slieve Croob Inn (Cas- Point), 452–453 Castle Leslie (Glaslough), 564 tlewellan), 537 Zetland Country House Hotel Caviston’s (Sandycove), 182 The Slieve Donard Hotel (Cashel), 421 Cayenne (Belfast), 510 (Newcastle), 535–536 Chapter One (Dublin), 140 Slieve Russell Hotel (Bally- The Chart House (Dingle), connell), 459–460 RESTAURANTS 344 Sligo Park Hotel, 452 Abbey Tavern (Howth), 185 The Cherry Tree Restaurant Sperrin Clachan (Cranagh), Achill Cliff House (Achill (Killaloe), 377 557 Island), 442 Chez Hans (Cashel), 254 The Strand (Clonmany), 486 Alden’s (Belfast), 510 Chez Youen (Baltimore), 310 Summerhill House Hotel An Cafe Liteartha (Dingle), Coast Italiano (Portrush), 531 (Enniskerry), 198–199 344 The Cobblestone (Galway), Tahilla Cove (Sneem), 320 398 592 Conlon (Galway), 397 Greenes (Cork), 277 The Malt House (Galway), Copper and Spice (Limerick), The Harbour Bar (Portrush), 396–397 359 531 Mange 2 (Derry), 550–551 The Corncrake (Carndonagh), Hartleys (Dún Laoghaire), Marble City Bar and Tea 486 180, 182 Rooms (Kilkenny), 267 Cornstore (Portaferry), 520 Harty’s Restaurant (Cloyne), Markree Castle Restaurant Cornucopia Wholefood Res- 297 (Collooney), 453 taurant (Dublin), 139 Hatter’s Lane (Athlone), 430 Mary Ann’s (Skibbereen), 311 Country Choice (Nenagh), The Heron’s Cove (Goleen), Max’s Wine Bar Restaurant 378 310 (Kinsale), 292 Cromleach Lodge (Castle- High Moors (Clifden), 423 McDonagh’s (Galway), 397 baldwin), 453 Hungry Monk Wine Bar Mellon Country Inn (Omagh), Crookedwood House (Mullin- (Wicklow), 201 557 gar), 430 Idaho Cafe (Cork), 277–278 Mermaid Café (Dublin), 135 Cruise’s Pub Restaurant Inn Between (Adare), 363 The Mill Restaurant (Figart), (Ennis), 377 Irish Film Centre Cafe Bar 482 Curragower Seafood Bar (Dublin), 137 Molly’s Bar and Restaurant (Limerick), 359 The Ivory Tower (Cork), 276 (Killaloe/Ballina), 378 The Customs House (Balti- Jacob’s Ladder (Dublin), 135 Moran’s Oyster Cottage (Kil- more), 310–311 Jacob’s on the Mall (Cork), colgan), 407 d’Arcy’s Oyster Bar and Grill 277 The Motte (Inistioge), 266 (Kenmare), 320 James Street South (Belfast), Moyglare Manor (Maynooth), Da Vinci’s Grill Room (Derry), 510 208 550 Jim Edwards (Kinsale), 292 Mr. Bumbles (Clonmel), 254 Deane’s (Belfast), 510 John Hewitt Bar & Restaurant Mulcahy’s (Kenmare), 321 Dobbins Wine Bistro (Dub- (Belfast), 511–512 The Mustard Seed (near lin), 139–140 Juice (Dublin), 136 Adare), 363 Doyle’s Seafood Bar (Dingle), Kealy’s Seafood Bar (Green- The Narrows (Portaferry), 344 castle), 487 520 The Duke Restaurant (War- Kilkenny Design Restaurant, National Museum Café (Dub- renpoint), 538 267 lin), 140 Echoes (Cong), 442 Kirwan’s Lane (Galway), 396 Nick’s Warehouse (Belfast), Eden (Dublin), 135 Kitty Kelly’s (Killybegs), 475 511 Ely (Dublin), 140 Knappogue Castle (Quin), Nimmo’s (Galway), 397–398 Epicurean Food Hall (Dublin), 379 Nosh (Dalkey), 182 141 La Bella Vita (Westport), 443 Nude (Dublin), 137 Fenn’s Quay Restaurant Lacken House (Kilkenny), 266 O’Brien’s American Steak- (Cork), 277 La Mère Zou (Dublin), 137 house & Grill (Derry), 551 Fishy Fishy Cafe (Kinsale), Lantern House (Ogonnelloe), O’Dowd’s Seafood Restau- 293 378 rant (Roundstone Har- Fitzers Café (Dublin), La Sosta (Derry), 550 bour), 423 138–139 Le Chateau (Athlone), 430 O’Grady’s (Clifden), 423 Fitzroy’s (Derry), 551 L’Ecrivain (Dublin), 139 One Pico (Dublin), 137 Forde’s Restaurant (Wex- Left Bank Bistro (Athlone), O’Shea’s Merchant (Dublin), ford), 235 430 138 Franco’s (Enniskillen), 564 The Lemon Peel (Westport), Packie’s (Kenmare), 321 Freddy’s Bistro, 359 442–443 Paddy Burke’s (Claren- The French Paradox (Dublin), Leo Burdock’s (Dublin), 134 bridge), 407 141 Les Frères Jacques (Dublin), Park Room Restaurant (Gal- Gaby’s Seafood Restaurant 134 way), 397 (Killarney), 334 L’Gueuleton (Dublin), 136 Pastis Bistro (Lismore), 245 Galloping Hogan’s Restau- Lime Tree, 320 Peploe’s (Dublin), 137–138 rant (Ballina), 378 The Little Skillet (Kinsale), Piccola Italia (Limerick), 359 G.B.C. (Galway Bakery Com- 293 Poppies Country Cooking pany), 397 Locks (Dublin), 131 (Enniskerry), 201–202 Good Things Café (Durrus), Londonderry Arms Hotel Prego (Kenmare), 321 311 (Carnlough), 531 Primrose Bar and Restaurant Goosers (Ballina), 378 Lord Bakers (Dingle), 344 (Ballynahinch), 520 Govinda’s (Dublin), 134 Lord Edward (Dublin), 131 Purple Heather (Kenmare), The Water Garden (Thomas- Finnegan’s (Annacotty), 593 321 town), 267 363–364 The Quay Cottage (West- Water’s Edge (Rathmullan), Front Door (Galway), 403 port), 442 482 The George Inn (Prosperous), Quaywest Wine Bar & Restau- The Weaver’s Loft (Donegal), 208 rant (Derry), 551 466 Gerry Chawkes (Clonmel), Queen of Tarts (Dublin), 134 White’s Tavern (Belfast), 512 255 The Ramore Restaurant and The Wild Geese (Adare), 363 Gertie Browns (Athlone), 431 Wine Bar (Portrush), 531 Winding Stair (Dublin), 141 The Greyhound (Kinsale), The Red Bank (Skerries), 186 The Wine Vault (Waterford), 293 Red Panda (Belfast), 512 246 Grogan’s Castle Lounge Restaurant David Norris (Tra- Yamamori Noodles (Dublin), (Dublin), 171 lee), 350 136 Harbour Bar (Bray), 202 Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud Zuni (Kilkenny), 266 Harbour Bar (Killybegs), 475 (Dublin), 139 Harbour Inn (Annalong), 538 Roly’s Bistro (Dublin), 141 Hargadon Brothers, 454 Roundwood Inn, 202 PUBS Harty’s Lounge Bar (Tralee), Rugantino’s River Café (Wick- An Bodhran (Cork), 283 351 low Town), 202 An Driochead Beag/The Irene & Nan’s (Belfast), 513 St. John’s Country House and Small Bridge (Dingle), 344 Jack Meade (Waterford), Restaurant (Fahan), 487 An Pucan (Galway), 403 246–247 Satchmo’s Restaurant An Spailpin Fanac (The Jacob Halls (Kilkeel), 538 (Derry), 550 Migrant Worker; Cork), 283 J. J. Hough’s (Banagher), 431 Seafarer’s Restaurant (Lahi- Antique Tavern (Enniscor- J. McCollam (Cushendall), nch), 389 thy), 236 532 Seasalt (Newcastle), 538 The Auld Dubliner (Dublin), John Henchy & Sons (Cork), Silken Thomas (Kildare), 208 172 284 Silk Road Café (Dublin), 143 Biddy O’Barnes (Barnes- Johnnie Fox’s (Rathdrum), Slice of Life (Athlone), 431 more), 467 202 Smuggler’s Creek (Rossnowl- Blakes of the Hollow (Enni- Kehoe’s (Dublin), 172 agh), 471 skillen), 564 Killarney Grand, 334 Smuggler’s Inn Country Bleeding Horse (Dublin), 174 Killeen’s (Shannonbridge), House (Giant’s Causeway), Brazen Head (Dublin), 431 531 172–173 Kirby’s Olde Brogue Inn Speranza (Belfast), 511 The Bulman (Kinsale), 293 (Tralee), 351 Spice Restaurant (Derry), 551 Capitol (Dublin), 174 Kyteler’s Inn (Kilkenny), 268 Station House Restaurant The Castle Inn (Caislean Ui Lakeside Centre (Dunlewey), (Clifden), 423 Cuain; Kilkenny), 267 482 The Strand Seafood Restau- The Clarendon (Derry), 552 The Laurels (Killarney), 334 rant (Dunmore East), 246 The Coach House (Round- Leo’s Tavern (Crolly), 482 The Strawberry Tree (Mac- wood), 202 Limelight & Katy Daly’s (Bel- reddin Village), 201 The Cobblestone (Dublin), fast), 513 Sweeney’s Wine Bar (Port- 173 The Locke (Limerick), 359 ballintrae), 531–532 Crane Bar (Galway), 403 The Long Hall (Dublin), 172 101 Talbot (Dublin), 140–141 The Crossbar (Gurteen), 454 The Long Valley (Cork), 284 The Tankard (near Tralee), The Crown Bar (Wexford), Lord Kingsale (Kinsale), 293 350 236 Major Tom’s (Dublin), 174 The Tannery (Dungarvan), Crown Liquor Saloon (Bel- Marble City Bar and Tea 245 fast), 512–513 Rooms (Kilkenny), 268 The Tea Room (Dublin), Davy Byrnes (Dublin), 171 Mary Ann’s (Skibbereen), 311 134–135 Derragarra Inn (Butlers- Matt the Thrasher (Birdhill), Tinakilly Country House bridge), 460 364 Hotel (Rathnew), 201 Dick Mack’s (Dingle), 344 McDaid’s (Dublin), 172 Treyvaud’s (Killarney), 334 Doheny and Nesbitt (Dublin), The Meetings (Avoca), 202 Tri na Cheile (Ballyvaughan), 171 M. McBride’s (Cushendun Vil- 384 Dolan’s Pub and Restaurant lage), 532 Two Dog Café (Clifden), (Limerick), 360 Molly Darcy’s (Killarney), 334 423–424 Eamon Langton’s (Kilkenny), The Moone High Cross Inn, Vanilla Pod (Kells), 215 267–268 208 594 Moran’s (Woodford), 431 Piper’s Rest (Kilcar), 475 The Spaniard Inn (Kinsale), Morning Star (Belfast), 513 P. McCormack and Sons (Dún 293–294 Mullan’s Bar (Derry), 552 Laoghaire), 182 Stag’s Head (Dublin), 172 The Munster (Waterford), The Porterhouse (Dublin), Stanford’s Village Inn, 454 247 172 T. & H. Doolan (Waterford), Nancy’s (Ardara), 482 The Purty Kitchen (Dún 247 Neary’s (Dublin), 172 Laoghaire), 182 The Thatch, 454 Oak Tavern (Ferrycarrig), 236 The Quays (Galway), 403 Tierney’s (Clonmel), 255 O’Connor’s (Killarney), 334 Rabbitt’s (Galway), 403 Tynan’s Bridge House (Kilk- O’Donoghue’s (Dublin), 173 Railway Bar (Clonmel), 255 enny), 268 O’Flaherty’s (Dingle), 345 River Inn (Derry), 552 Vine House (Banagher), 431 The Olde Castle Bar (Done- Rotterdam (Belfast), 514 Vintage Club (Limerick), 359 gal), 467 Sandino’s Cafe Bar (Derry), Whelan’s (Dublin), 174 Oliver St. John Gogarty (Dub- 552–553 The White House (Kinsale), lin), 173 The Schooner Inn (Donegal), 294 O’Malley’s (Portstewart), 532 467 White’s Tavern (Belfast), 514 O’Neill’s (Dublin), 172 Sean’s (Athlone), 431 W.M. South’s (Limerick), 360 Oyster Tavern (Tralee), 351 Séhán Ua Neáchtain (Gal- The Wren’s Nest (Wexford), Pat’s Bar (Belfast), 513 way), 403 236 The Percy French Sinnotts (Dublin), 174 (Newcastle), 538