Great bowls of

BY TERESA FARNEY [email protected]

PHOTOS BY CHRISTIAN MURDOCK, THE GAZETTE

Momma Pearl’s Cajun Kitchen owner Robert Brunet adds some oyster liquor to his gumbo last week at his new location in the Northgate area of Colorado Springs. Momma Pearl’s Cajun Kitchen’s gumbo. The Mumbo Jumbo Gumbo Cook-Off is Saturday in Manitou Springs. CHRISTIAN MURDOCK, THE GAZETTE

Gumbo at Momma Pearl’s Cajun Kitchen at it’s new location at 162 Tracker Drive in Colorado Springs.

There’s nothing like a cook-off to get the creative culinary juices flowing, and this Saturday’s Mumbo Jumbo Gumbo Cook-Off will be no exception.

Now in its 27th year, the Manitou Springs competition attracts amateur cooks and professional chefs who bring their best and await judges and the public’s vote to determine the winners.

Gumbo is a thick, -like dish that requires a properly cooked roux; the “” of sautéed celery, onions and bell peppers; and the addition of meat or shellfish. Roux (pronounced ROO) is a simple mixture of equal parts and oil that thickens the dish — and is the foundation of gumbo.

But these are just the basics. From there, the styles and ingredient decisions diverge wildly. We sought out some chefs with Southern backgrounds to get tips for making the flavorful dish.

“Gumbo is our lifeblood, and it is very specific,” said Victor Matthews, dean and culinary instructor at Paragon Culinary School, who spent years as a chef in New Orleans. “For starters, there are differences between Cajun and Creole gumbo. Cajun is darker, less pretty and colorful, and made from more down-to- earth ingredients like chicken or … duck. The Creole tends to have tomato and be prettier and less muddy looking, with seafood or more expensive ingredients like shrimp. Both can have andouille, an ingredient from the German Cajuns around Lake Allemande.”

Matthews prefers a Creole version with tomato, okra, shrimp and the andouille sausage.

“Those beautiful bright green and red colors are the soul of the Creole gumbo,” he said.

Although there are three types of roux — white, blond and brown, with the colors determined by how long they’re cooked — gumbo calls for “the darkest roux possible,” he said. The deep, dark color means deeper flavor and thickening ability. Even so, he said gumbo is not very thick and is instead more of a “thinner style dark brown .”

The word “gumbo” is West African for “okra,” so technically the dish should include okra, although Matthews said it’s considered optional, especially in the Cajun version.

“The original dish started with an okra stew,” he said. “But once those African cooks were in the French kitchens of Louisiana, they began playing with the roux.”

For some, okra in gumbo is a turnoff.

“Freshly cut-up fresh okra is difficult to cook due to the slimy quality,” Matthews said. “But it makes a great flavor and thickens the gumbo on top of the roux. I always use frozen precut okra because it has less slime.”

Another type of gumbo is made with filé (pronounced fee-lay), a greenish seasoning of ground sassafras leaves, in place of okra. But, Matthews said, this version is less common.

Don’t tell that to Chef Lyn Harwell, director of operations for SunWellness Companies in Manitou Springs, who will be a contestant in the Mumbo Jumbo Gumbo Cookoff. He also has ties to New Orleans where he was a chef. And he’s a big fan of filé. “Filé, especially freshly milled sassafras added to the top of any gumbo, is true heaven on earth,” he said.

Harwell’s favorite gumbo includes chicken and andouille, seasoned with filé. His roux is cooked “long and slow over a low heat to create the chocolate color and aroma that is crucial to any real gumbo.”

“Gumbo is one of the great American classics,” Harwell said. “There are as many great as there are people — such a mix of cultures and heritage in southern Louisiana.”

Generally gumbo is served over steamed . But for something entirely different, we got a tip from Beau Green, executive chef at Cheyenne Mountain Zoo, who grew up in the South and started his culinary journey there. He tops his gumbo with a scoop of potato salad!

“It’s something of a family or regional tradition that you’re more likely to see at picnics or small gatherings than in an actual restaurant,” said Green, whose research led to the discovery that it’s a custom from the Deep South. “The pairing is out-of-this-world fantastic. The potato salad melds into the gumbo, giving it a rich, creamy feel.”

Green makes a straight-up gumbo that includes chicken, andouille, shrimp, garlic, spices and a dark roux thinned with chicken, shrimp or lobster stock. The potato salad is made from boiled red potatoes mashed with mayo, Creole mustard, green onion, celery, okra, Cajun seasoning, salt and pepper.

His final touch is a pickled okra garnish, but he puts that on the side for guests when he thinks it might not be appreciated.

The potato salad is also served on the side. Not everyone thinks this topping is such a good idea.

“A good friend and chef in town has challenged me to change his mind, and, rest assured, I will do just that,” Green said.

When Matthews was asked about the potato salad topping, he had a scholarly answer.

“Now, what Beau discovered is an insider secret,” he said. “We call it Cajun-style because in certain areas — primarily the German areas or Cajun country where the southern German love of potato salad exists — they often put it into the gumbo instead of rice. It’s pretty rare, and it is very Cajun, not Creole. But it is creamy and delicious. I have eaten it that way about 25 percent of the time.”

If you’re looking for more gumbo inspiration, check out one of Harwell’s favorite cookbooks: “Who’s Your Mama, Are You Catholic, and Can You Make a Roux?” by Marcelle Bienvenu.

Or just head to the Mumbo Jumbo Gumbo Cook-Off where you can sample the nearly two dozen entries and vote for your favorite ones. Public tastings run from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. at Soda Springs Park, 42 Park Ave.; each sample costs 50 cents. Then stick around afterward for the Carnivale Parade in downtown Manitou starting at 1 p.m.

For more information, visit tinyurl.com/rgustgs.

SHRIMP & SAUSAGE GUMBO

Yield: 4 servings 4 tablespoons Kosher salt 1/4 cup all-purpose flour Freshly ground black pepper 1 small yellow onion 1 bay leaf 1 medium green bell pepper, chopped 1 (15-ounce) can fire-roasted diced tomatoes 2 celery ribs, chopped 4 cups chicken broth 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 pound shrimp, peeled and deveined 12 ounces andouille sausage, sliced into 1/2-inch pieces 3 green onions, sliced 1 tablespoon. Cajun seasoning (without salt) Cooked white rice, for serving

Procedure:

1. In a large, deep skillet over medium-low heat, melt butter, then add flour. Cook, stirring constantly, until dark caramel colored, about 10 minutes.

2. Add onion, pepper and celery, and stir until softened, about 5 minutes.

3. Stir in garlic and sausage, then season with Cajun seasoning, salt and pepper.

4. Stir in bay leaf, diced tomatoes and chicken broth and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer until thickened, stirring occasionally, about 1 hour.

5. In the last 10 minutes of , add shrimp. Once shrimp is pink and cooked through, taste and adjust seasonings. Stir in green onions, reserving some for garnish. Serve spooned on top of white rice.