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en The Volcanic Region of La Natural Park

Generalitat de Catalunya Government of Department of the Environment and Housing The Volcanic Region of La Garrotxa Natural Park

population in the urban nuclei centralised in the Wet Mountain Zone capital of the region, , with the resulting rural depopulation, the centralising of services and the intensification of agriculture and shepherding. The territory of the Natural Park is at mid-mountain These imbalances had an important impact on level, extending from the 200m of altitude of the area, especially in terms of badly-planned , to the east of the protected urban growth, aggressive mineral extraction and zone, to the 1,027m of Puigsallança, the highest uncontrolled waste dumping. point of the Finestres mountain range. All of these things led to the mobilisation of The climate is typically humid Mediterranean, with embryonic local conservation groups that, with an annual average precipitation of around 1,000 l/ the support of the country’s scientific institutions, m2. In the Olot basin, surrounded by mountains, insisted on the zone’s protection. This came into thermal inversion is produced, resulting in the force with the Law for the protection of the volcanic regular presence of fog that, in combination with region of La Garrotxa, unanimously approved by higher levels of rain associated with summer the Parliament of Catalonia in 1982. storms in the Pyrenees, make it possible for the The principal objective of the declaration of the vegetation of the area to be more typically Atlantic. Natural Park is to balance the conservation of the area with its economic development.

The Volcanic Region of La Garrotxa Natural Park is situated in the northeast of Catalonia, in the Exceptional Natural Value province of , in the very centre of the La Garrotxa region. It covers an area of some 15,300 hectares, spread over eleven municipalities. The protection law stipulates different values to be Within the Park there are 28 nature reserves (1180 protected. There are exceptional traces of volcanic hectares) which are protected for their geological activity unlike any other on the Iberian Peninsula, Front cover: Batet, the volcanoes of , Santa Margari- and botanical interest. These reserves preserve this area being the main example of such activity. In da and Puig de la Costa and the Corb mountain range Photo: Ramon Fortià for the most part the volcanic cones of greatest addition to this, the flora and vegetation have some geomorphologic interest. great peculiarities, such as typically mid-European This Natural Park is the best-preserved volcanic plant species and communities in the middle of the Opposite page: The Corb valley and the Fageda d’En Jordà zone on the Iberian Peninsula, and one of the most Mediterranean region, remnants of the vegetation Photo: Pep Callís representative of continental Europe. that was dominant during the ice age. The law also The model of economic and territorial development emphasised the importance of the harmonious This page: Extraction of lapilli from the Croscat volcano befo- in the region of La Garrotxa during the period landscape formed by nature and human activity re the protection of the Volcanic Region of La Garrotxa 1960-1990 led to a concentration of the over many years. Photo: Pep Callís 1 2 3 5 6 4

The Origins of the Volcanoes Forty Volcanoes of magma, which reaches temperatures of over shaped craters resulting from the later erosion of 1,000ºC, and underground water. When large one side by the lava flow (El Croscat volcano). amounts of water vapour form, the increase in the Although the volcanoes of La Garrotxa are relatively There was volcanic activity in this area over pressure from this results in large explosions. The recent (from the Quaternary period) it is necessary hundreds of thousands of years, with volcanic results of this are extensive, circular depressions in to go back millions of years to understand their eruptions separated by long dormant periods. The the earth. origins. After the alpine orogeny, which resulted in last eruption took place some 11,500 years ago. the formation of the Pyrenees and which caused The superficial alteration of the volcanic materials folds in the sedimentary eocenic material in the has resulted in the existence of over 3,300 A Landscape Shaped by Lava Flows region, there was a distensive tectonic period, hectares of unique volcanic soils. The majority of leading to the fragmenting of the earth’s crust into the volcanoes are situated on the floors of valleys, a series of parallel fault lines that separated but there are also some on the valley slopes and Over 20 lava flows also form a valuable part of the different blocks of the substrata, raising some and on the valley crests. area’s geological heritage. The lava flows emitted lowering others with respect to each other. This Almost all of the volcanoes in La Garrotxa by the volcanoes cooled in the shape of the slope, 1 The Montsacopa volcano is an excellent viewpoint of Olot and the volcanic area structure should be viewed in Western Europe originated from a single eruption, which may have occupied the course of rivers, and filled in valleys, Photo: Pep Callís within the context of the so-called intracontinental lasted from a few days to a few weeks. In general, turning them into very fertile plains. Volcanic activity, rift system, responsible for the formation of the Eifel however, each eruption consisted of different therefore, is a powerful agent in shaping the relief volcanic region in Germany, the Auvergne volcanic phases, during which the type of eruptive activity of the land and has conditioned the distribution of 2 The Racó volcano and the Corb and Finestres mountain ranges region in France and the La Garrotxa volcanic would change. human settlements in a large part of the region. Photo: Pep Callís region. The magma did not come from a magma chamber, The emission of lava flows is the result of effusive The intense fracturing of the earth’s crust made it but instead rose directly to the surface. This means activity taking place when the magma escaped at possible for magma generated in the upper mantle each volcano being formed in a single eruptive low pressure. The different types of flowing and 3 Walking Trail 22 in the Park goes from to the Sant Marc Volcano to rise directly to the surface. The distribution of episode and was incapable of further activity. cooling have resulted in the strange forms of the Photo: Pep Callís the volcanic cones in the area is directly related to basalt crags in the area, which are cracked into the positions of these fractures: volcanoes usually columns, blocks or slabs depending on whether appear over the points of intersection between two Volcanoes formed from explosions cooling occurred when the lava was stationary or in 4 The Santa Margarida volcano, one of the Natural Park’s forty volcanoes faults or over the crack itself. motion. These phenomena can be seen in different Photo: Archives of Natural Park parts of the Natural Park, including the basalt crags The most frequent explosive activity is Strombolian of Castellfollit de la Roca and . in nature, characterised by the expulsion of ash, The majority of the volcanoes were formed in 5 The Croscat volcano with its uneven crater Photo: Archives of Natural Park lapilli, slag and volcanic bombs. All of these two eruptive phases: the first was Strombolian, materials accumulate around the chimney and during which the volcanic cone was formed with result in the formation of the volcanic cone. the deposit of the materials, and the second was 6 The village of Castellfollit de la Roca is situated on a crag Another type of much more explosive activity is effusive, with the emission of lava flows. The result formed by two lava flows Photo: Pep Callís phreatomagmatic activity, caused by the interaction of these are volcanic cones with hollowed, arc-

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An Extremely Varied Plant Llife grow species more typical of deciduous oak forest. to the absence of shrubs, which allows long, Well-conserved Montane Stage Fauna and the roe deer (Capreolus capreolus) had outbuildings typical of this type of scattered The sub-Mediterranean oak forests of downy oak uninterrupted views into the woods. disappeared due to human action between the population were also maintained, as were hamlets (Quercus humilis), which grow on sedimentary The riverbank woods are dominated by alder 19th and the 20th centuries. However, the latter such as that of Sant Iscle de Colltort. The combination of different geological, substrata, where it is drier, also occupy a (Alnus glutinosa) and willow (Salix alba, S. cinerea The fauna of the Natural Park includes many has begun to return to the Park as the result of a According to the 2001 census, 47,747 people live in bio-geographical and climatic factors mean significant part of the Natural Park’s surface. subsp. catalaunica). species of great interest, in particular as regards reintroduction project by the Natural Park. the region, of whom 32,255 live in the Natural Park. that there is an enormous variety of flora and The oak is accompanied by other trees such The most common scrub plants are the heathers the invertebrate population. A total of 1,528 The Park has healthy populations of the species vegetation. There are elements of Mediterranean as the whitebeam (Sorbus aria) and the Italian (Erica arborea and E. scoparia), rock roses (Cistus species have been recorded, a figure that native to the montane stage in humid areas and Central European plants, with over 1,170 maple (Acer opalus), shrubs such as box (Buxus salvifolius) in the more Mediterranean zone, and demonstrates not so much the scarcity of species of Catalonia. A Diversified Economy species of superior flora catalogued and over 150 sempervirens) and the wayfaring tree (Viburnum broom (Sarothamnus scoparius), blackthorn (Prunus present as the lack of knowledge of many groups. recorded plant life communities. lantana) and a number of herbaceous plants such spinosa) and brambles in the most humid areas. Of particular interest is the presence of many Over 65% of the Park is covered with woodland. as the liverwort (Anemone hepatica). Lastly there are the meadows, the maize and alfalfa different endemic molluscs. The Natural Park A Harmonious, Well-Preserved The population growth that has taken place in the Of the trees, the most widespread are oaks, both The humid oak forests and the mixed forests of fields, grown for fodder, and the less and less has undertaken a reintroduction project of the Landscape volcanic region since 1950 has been concentrated evergreen and deciduous, and beech. Crops, common oak (Quercus robur), common ash common fields of cereals. river mussel (Unio elongatulus subsp. alerioni), a mainly in Olot, the regional capital, and in some of which occupy 30% of the Park’s surface, are (Fraxinus excelsior), field maple (Acer campestre) subspecies endemic to the regions of Girona that the surrounding municipalities near the river Fluvià. distributed in the form of a mosaic, and are and littleleaf linden (Tilia cordata), are native to the had practically disappeared from the zone. It has According to data from the year 2001, the primary well-adapted to the physical conditions of the land. Olot plain, growing on the basalt. These woods are successfully reproduced in captivity and various In addition to the geological and biological values sector is of relatively little importance to the Within the Natural Park, ten different plant life very similar to those seen in the North of the Iberian different reintroduction programmes have been mentioned above, the landscape was the other economy (3.7%), while industry is very diversified formations can be highlighted. Peninsula and all of central Europe. The undergrowth 1 Agriculture and stock farming only involve 3.7% of the carried out in the Park’s rivers, from which it had main reason for declaring the Natural Park a and consolidated throughout the region (38.5%). active population The coastal oak woodland, which flourishes at is made up of box, spindle trees (Euonymus Photo: Pep Callís disappeared, once the quality of the water had protected area. The model distribution of the land Construction is also important (10.8%). The tertiary higher temperatures, is located in the lower areas europaeus), dwarf honeysuckle (Lonicera been assured. into crops, pastures, woods and rural settlements, sector (46.8%), unlike the other services, is very of the south and west (Mieres, Santa Pau, Sant xylosteum) and herbaceous plants such as lungwort Another very valuable invertebrate is the white- as a result of the farming, fishing and forestry concentrated in Olot. Feliu de Pallerols and Les Planes d’Hostoles), is (Pulmonaria affinis) and Isopyrum thalictroides. It 2 The roe deer is present again in the Natural Park thanks to clawed crayfish (Austropotamobius pallipes) of exploitation of the Park, have turned the landscape The most important activity in the primary sector is its reintroduction dominated by the holm oak (Quercus ilex) with is in this environment that the only population of Photo: Pep Callís which the largest population in Catalonia can be around this volcanic region into an ordered, stockbreeding (cattle and pigs), followed by feed shrubs from the coastal Mediterranean regions Oplismenus undulatifolius on the Iberian Peninsula found in the Natural Park and its surroundings. This balanced and open landscape. crops. With the modernisation of the agricultural such as the mastic tree (Pistacia lentiscus), can be found, a cereal normally found in the Balkans is a species in extreme danger of extinction, and sector, the number of farms and the number of the Italian buckthorn (Rhamnus alaternus), that is very rare in Western Europe. 3 The Paratges de La Moixina, one of the most interesting in the Natural Park, a recovery and recording Plan people involved in this area have decreased, while areas of the Natural Park An Area Shaped By Humans the strawberry tree (Arbutus unedo) and the The beech forests with box can be found in the Photo: Pep Callís is being developed for the La Garrotxa population, the size of the farms has increased. lauristinus (Viburnum tinus), all of which make shady parts of the larger slopes, on the drier thanks among other things to the creation of a The most important industrial activities in the area the wood appear impenetrable. substrata. The beech (Fagus sylvatica) and box are captive breeding centre. are textiles (which in recent years has been facing The mountain oak wood, transitional woodland the most abundant plants. 4 The Batet plateau and the Sant Julià del Mont mountains In terms of vertebrates, up to the year 2004 a total Today’s model of territorial organisation is based crisis), foodstuffs (the meat industry, especially the Photo: Pep Callís to the woods dominated by deciduous trees, is The beech woods, which flourish in acid soils, of 261 species had been recorded, of which 9 on the creation of rural parishes in the 9th and manufacture of cold meats and ) and highly abundant in the Natural Park on the sunny growing on basalt and clay, like the Fageda d’En were fish, 11 amphibians, 17 reptiles, 177 birds 10th centuries, some of which resulted in the metallurgy. The diversification of this sector has hillsides of the Finestres, Corb and Sant Julià Jordà, which is on the tail of the Croscat volcano, 5 The mediaeval village of Santa Pau, declared a site of and 47 were mammals. Large mammals such as formation of small rural nuclei while the most benefited the region in times of change and crisis. mountain ranges. The species native to coastal are particularly interesting due to the fact that historical and artistic importance the bear (Ursus arctos), the wolf (Canis lupus), important settlements were formed; on the other Traditionally, trade has been based on small family Photo: Pep Callís oak woodland have disappeared, and in their place they grow at low altitudes, on flat lands, and due the lynx (Lynx lynx), the red deer (Cervus elaphus) hand, manor houses and large farmhouses and firms, but this now faces stiff competition from 1 2 3 4 5

larger companies that have moved into the area. All of this information is available on the website or in Natural Park Offices Centro de Documentación (Can Jordà) Tourism has increased significantly in recent years, A Natural Park A Network of Tourist Facilities, the information centres and points in the Natural Park. Ctra. de Olot a Santa Pau, km 4 17811 Santa Pau and faces the challenge of seeking compatibility with Many Places to Visit Activities and Services You can reach the Volcanic Region of La Garrotxa Casal dels Volcans Telephone: (00 34) 972 264 666 Must be booked in advance with the conservation of the environment. Natural Park by road from Girona, Figueres and Avda. de Santa Coloma, s/n 17800 Olot Currently the Gross Domestic Product of the region Besalú, from and Amer, Telephones: (00 34) 972 266 202 (00 34) 972 266 012 Centro de Conservación de Plantas Cultivadas is around 5% above the Catalan average. All of the above means that the Natural Park is full All of these places of interest can be visited from Vic and from Ripoll. The TEISA bus company is Fax: (00 34) 972 27 04 55 de Can Jordà As this is such a heavily populated natural area that is of different places that are well worth visiting. These following the network of paths in the region and the company servicing the area. (tel. 972 260 196). Ctra. de Olot a Santa Pau, km 4 17811 Santa Pau extremely dynamic economically and where 98% of range from the volcanic cones to the Croscat, the Park’s 30 walking trails, which are spread Can Jordà Telephone: (00 34) 972 264 666 the area covered is private property, the relationship Santa Margarida, Montsacopa, Sant Marc, Els throughout. These offer the possibility of taking Ctra. d’Olot a Santa Pau, km 4 17811 Santa Pau Must be booked in advance with the local population, the regulation of economic Traiters and Del Racó volcanoes, the lava trails short walks, of half an hour, to longer hikes that Telephone: (00 34) 972 264 666 activities and the planning of sustainable economic such as at Sant Joan les Fonts, Castellfollit de la last a whole day. The carefully selected routes, the Fax: (00 34) 972 265 567 projects is vital for the area’s conservation. Roca, Sant Feliu de Pallerols etc.; woods such excellent signposting and the support of numerous Web Area (Department of the Environment and Housing Planning Service. as the oak woods of La Moixina, the Fageda d’En guides, books and leaflets mean that it is easy to http://www.parcsdecatalunya.net/garrotxa.htm Last updated: 2008) Jordà (beech woods), the Bosc de Tosca oak walk around the Park and get to know the most 15.309 ha (including 1180 ha of nature reserves) Its Own Cultural Identity woods, the Salut beech woods etc.; rural spaces interesting spots. E-mail [email protected] with country houses and settlements such as at An important collection of tourist facilities offers Municipalities Batet de la Serra, Sant Miquel de Sacot and others; accommodation, food, information, activities Castellfolit de la Roca, Mieres, Montagut, Olot, La Garrotxa has an entrepreneurial spirit that is former mediaeval hamlets such as Santa Pau, Sant etc., in order to make your stay as enjoyable as Information Centres les Planes d’Hostoles, , Sant Aniol de reflected in its culture, social networks, traditions Feliu de Pallerols et.c; Romanesque monuments possible. The majority of the tourist facilities in the 1 Dance of the Giants in Olot Finestres, Santa Pau, Sant Feliu de Pallerols, Sant and gastronomy. There are strong, established such as at Sant Joan les Fonts, Santa Pau, the region are committed to improving the quality of Photo: Pep Callís Casal dels Volcans Joan les Fonts, traditions with a long history of artistic teaching, Corb Valley etc.; Art Nouveau buildings in Olot, sustainable tourism and have joined the tourist Avda. de Santa Coloma, s/n 17800 Olot related to the centuries-old industry of religious etc.; through to museums such as the La Garrotxa network of the region, Turisme Garrotxa. Telephones: (00 34) 972 266 202 2 Saint making workshop in the Regional Museum of La Regions imagery. This spirit is also a reflection of the Regional Museum and the Volcano Museum. A number of different activities are offered throughout (00 34) 972 266 012 Garrotxa Fax: (00 34) 972 270 455 La Garrotxa society of La Garrotxa, with a network of many the year, as the different villages have a rich cultural Photo: Pep Callís different bodies – in the Natural Park there are agenda. Worth highlighting among these is the Can Serra, la fageda d’en Jordà more than 350 socio-cultural bodies – and in the programme of guided tours, Descobreix la Garrotxa Date of creation 3 Fageda d’En Jordà and Corb mountain range Law 2/1982, of 3rd March, for the protection of the well-established festivals and popular traditions (Discovering La Garrotxa), which throughout the Photo: Josep Maria Prats Can Passavent, volcán del Croscat that always have large numbers of participants. year organises over 250 visits and excursions to Volcanic Region of La Garrotxa The industry and services in the region are mainly over 20 different places in the region, guided by an 4 Educational activities on the slopes of the Croscat volca- under the control of dynamic local companies. expert in the zone who will take you on the route Other services International Protection no Natura 2000. Mediterranean Region Many of these have now extended their scope of the ten volcanoes, or perhaps along the Roman Photo: Pep Callís beyond the region. road, the Via Annia, which crosses the region, who Servicios pedagógicos Gastronomy has always been a strong point in will show you the main mediaeval settlements and Avda. de Santa Coloma,s/n the region, and makes good use of the quality monuments, or the flora and fauna of charming 5 Montsacopa volcano under snow Telephones: (00 34) 972 270 086 Photo: Pep Callís This natural area has received co-financing from the ingredients available. spots such as La Moixina or El Bosc de Tosca. (00 34) 972 268 112 Must be booked in advance European Regional Development Funds (ERDF) © GOVERNMENT OF CATALONIA DEPARTMENT OF THE ENVIRONMENT AND HOUSING, DIRECTORATE GENERAL FOR NATURE PARKS SERVICE Dr. Roux, 80 08017 Barcelona Tel. 935 674 200 Legal Deposit: B-50.378-05 Layout: Lluís Mestres / Jordi Ruiz / Marta Vilches www.parcsdecatalunya.net