BOOSTINGA WXEKEXD BENDETXIN PXRIX EAST TO WEST ALICERUXWXY & OLIVIA’S HXS INXUXEDSTACEY LAXVIN, FILM SOCIETY DXOR, GIVEXNCHY AXND CXMME KOREAN-OWNED MCM UNVEILS ITS SPRING BENDET HAS BIG PLANS GUCCI SPONSORED LACMA’S ANNUAL ART + FILM GALA, WHICH FORDXS HER GARXONS. $200 MILLION PAGES X TO X. DREW THE LIKES OF KATE HUDSON, LEONARDO DICAPRIO, COLLECTION IN BEIJING AS IT EXPANDS CHARLOTTE CASIRAGHI, EDDIE REDMAYNE AND MORE. PAGE 10 INTO EUROPE AND THE U.S. PAGE 8 BRAND. PAGE 5

KEY ISSUES LOOM Industry’s Election Hope: Do-Something Congress

By KRISTI ELLIS and ARTHUR FRIEDMAN

WASHINGTON — Gridlock or progress? That’s the question hanging over Tuesday’s congres- sional midterm elections, the outcome of which will ei- WWD ther coax progress on the industry’s key issues, involv- ing trade-preference programs and the Internet sales tax, or else more bickering between Republicans and MONDAY, NOVEMBER 3, 2014 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Democrats as they battle for control and candidates begin to campaign for the 2016 presidential elections. Democrats currently hold a majority in the Senate, while Republicans have control of the House. Political experts generally feel that control of the Senate, where a third of the seats are at stake, might fall into the hands of the republicans, while the House should stay in the GOP’s control. Despite the expected outcome, industry executives remain skeptical that Congress will pass much legis- lation in the lame-duck session after the elections. They are optimistic, though, that legislation might inch forward in the first half of 2015, when the 114th Spring session of Congress begins. “To me, the things that seem big and hard but pos- sible are trade and immigration, as opposed to tax re- form [and] Social Security or Medicare reform, which are too difficult. Those will be left for the next presi- DIXON dent,” said Phillip Swagel, a professor of interna- Leaves tional economic policy at the University of Maryland. MILTON “Once the election is over, legislating will be done When temperatures start with an eye toward the 2016 election. to rise and nature blooms “People understand that, if the Senate flips, then ASSISTANT: back, Yigal Azrouël’s Republicans would try to put together votes that would have some appeal to Democrats. Republicans

FASHION cotton and viscose will also have to think about what they can do to put dress makes just the pressure on the president in the direction they want right transitional without overreaching,” Swagel added. “I like to put immigration and trade on that agenda.” statement. The Retailers are hoping their top priority — a federal fix to what they argue is an Internet tax loophole — will fi- EVISNOTIMPRESSED; designer was BY inspired by nally get its day on Capitol Hill in the lame-duck session. “early surf SEE PAGE 6 CHOKER culture — this dress in particular Topshop Thinks Big With sports a BEAUTY/BA-REPS.COM; 3-D palm Fifth Avenue Flagship

DIOR leaf fil coupé

FOR By with faille piping DAVID MOIN HAIG detail.” NEW YORK — Topshop jumps into midtown

SOPHIE Manhattan’s retail fray at noon Wednesday when the

BY London-based retailer opens a four-level flagship on Fifth Avenue and 49th Street. It will be Topshop’s second-largest store, dwarfed MAKEUP only by the 90,000-square-foot flagship on Oxford Circus in London. According to sources, the London ARTISTS; site generates $250 million in revenues annually, and the Fifth Avenue store, with 33,000 square feet of sell- ing space, or about one third that of the Oxford Street CARE/LVA flagship, should hit at least $80 million in sales, being HAIR situated in one of the world’s densest retail districts. “You can just feel the foot traffic,” Sir Philip ORIBE Green, Topshop’s owner, said as he toured the site

USING Saturday, encouraging his managers to make some tweaks, and greeting the bevy of personal shoppers on hand to attend to the preopening private shop- DAGENAIS ping. As he peered through a big window looking out on Saks Fifth Avenue, the Michael Kors store and the

MARCEL parade of tourists and local shoppers, it was obvious BY Green loves the landscape, and the Topshop build

HAIR out. “Every retailer wants to get a great site on Fifth Avenue. It’s where you want to put together a great story. We’ve been patient,” said Green, of the retail- er’s multiyear quest for a second site in Manhattan

MANAGEMENT; after it opened downtown five years ago. Size matters too. “In terms of this location, we

GIA/ONE can show off the range of what we do and the store is easy to shop,” Green said. “It doesn’t feel inhibited. PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY MAYTE ALLENDE

MODEL: SEE PAGE 4 2 WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 3, 2014 WWD.COM Ledru to Head Louis Vuitton Americas THE BRIEFING BOX is currently significant brand activity in the works, By MARC KARIMZADEH including the unveiling of the revamped Fifth IN TODAY’S WWD Avenue maison at the end of the month, a new NEW YORK — Louis Vuitton named Anthony Peter Marino-designed store on Rodeo Drive that Ledru president and chief executive officer of the will bow in February and the opening of a unit in Americas, effective Jan. 1. Miami’s Design District the following month. Ledru was most recently senior vice presi- “When we went out to look for a president dent, North America, at in the U.S., we wanted Tiffany & Co. Prior to that, someone who, first of all, he served as global vice Anthony had a very strong under- president of sales for Harry Ledru standing of the industry in Winston International and the U.S.,” Zanardi-Landi was at Cartier in Latin noted. “Anthony is com- America and then in the ing to us with nearly 20 U.S., where he held the years of experience in the role of vice president of U.S. and in Latin America. retail at the house’s North But also very important to American business. us, we were looking for a At Vuitton, he is strong retailer, someone succeeding Valérie who is going to be very

Chapoulaud-Floquet, who close to the stores. That EICHNER left the luxury leather- is the thing we feel very Marina Abramovic and Joan Smalls in goods house in August strongly about in Anthony. Givenchy with Riccardo Tisci. For more on STEVE to join French alcoholic- He is someone who is close the Black Ball, see page 10 and WWD.com. BY beverage company Rémy to the store teams and can PHOTO Cointreau Group as ceo. inspire them.”

In the interim period, SCHILDHORN/BFANYC.COM Last May, Ledru was

Christopher Zanardi-Landi, JOE named in a racial-discrimi- The congressional midterm elections could create a political Louis Vuitton’s executive BY nation lawsuit filed against dynamic that propels some of the industry’s most critical issues vice president, commer- Tiffany & Co. The suit was

PHOTO across the finish line — or gridlock could still rule the Hill. PAGE 1 cial activities, oversaw the dismissed in August after Americas region and worked closely with senior Michael McClure, a group director with Tiffany, and management executives. the jewelry retailer reached an agreement. Topshop jumps into Midtown Manhattan’s retail fray at noon “The U.S. is a very strategic market for us,” “My understanding is that all of those issues Wednesday when the London-based retailer opens a four-level PAGE 1 Zanardi-Landi told WWD. “It is, and always has were solved, and so we move on,” Zanardi-Landi flagship on Fifth Avenue and 49th Street. been, one of our biggest markets in the world. We noted when asked if the suit was at all a consid- have a 130-store network, and it’s one that we con- eration in the hiring process. “We were looking at Alice + Olivia is in the throes of an ambitious retail expansion, centrate on very strongly.” someone who has had a very strong career, and ev- having opened five stores in the U.S. this year, totaling 15, with a Zanardi-Landi added that Ledru is joining erybody we have spoken to in the market, from a target of 25 domestic and 50 international doors by 2018. PAGE 5 Vuitton after a strong 2014 and “tremendous suc- retailing point of view, has been very, very positive, cess with the launch of Nicolas Ghesquière.” There so that was not a bearing in our discussion.” A group of seven designers created a 25-piece collection for Rent the Runway, which is celebrating five years. PAGE 6

Michael Kors is launching a collection of phone-charging Peter Herink Tapped for Akris NA Post cases, earbuds and two chargers designed to resemble women’s cosmetics. PAGE 6 NEW YORK — Akris named fore that, the executive served as freestanding stores in New York, Peter Herink chief executive of- buyer and merchandising man- Dallas, Boston and Bal Harbor, The presentation of Shayne Oliver’s line Hood by Air at the ficer of North America. ager at Helmut Lang. Fla., with a network of upscale MoMA’s PopRally, masqueraded as a party. PAGE 8 Herink joins from Tory Burch, At Akris, Herink will over- specialty stores that includes where, for the past four years, he see the company’s business in Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman MCM showcased a new collection outside of Europe for the was vice president and general North America, including opera- Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman and first time in Beijing, indicating just how important China has merchandise manager, global re- tion, strategic direction and ex- Nordstrom. PAGE 8 tail. Prior to Tory Burch, he was pansion. He will report to Peter Herink is succeeding Melissa become for the accessories brand. at Saks Fifth Avenue, rising from Kriemler, the president and ceo Beste, who recently joined in- women’s European ready-to-wear of the St. Gallen, Switzerland- vestment firm InterLuxe as ceo. The Accessories Council, now in its 20th year, will host the buyer to vice president and divi- based firm. InterLuxe took a controlling stake 18th annual ACE Awards tonight at New York’s Cipriani 42nd sional merchandise manager; be- In the U.S., Akris operates in Jason Wu in September. — M.K. Street. PAGE 9

Designers Mark Badgley and James Mischka are in search of new digs in Locust Valley, N.Y., presumably not far from Judge: U.S.-made Labeling Suit Can Proceed Hunter’s Moon Farm. PAGE 11

ceed to a jury trial. Paz claimed he bought a pair Product extensions are media’s new holy grail — and now By KHANH T.L. TRAN of AG jeans from a Nordstrom store in San Diego, Harper’s Bazaar is hoping that readers’ hearts can be won in May, because he believed the jeans were made through their stomachs. PAGE 11 LOS ANGELES — A federal judge has denied a re- domestically and so “he was supporting U.S. jobs quest by AG and Nordstrom to dismiss a lawsuit al- and the U.S. economy.” On June 9, Del Mar Law ON WWD.COM leging they mislabeled American-made jeans based Group filed a second lawsuit based on similar on California’s stricter statute covering domesti- claims on behalf of Louise Clark against Citizens cally produced merchandise. of Humanity and Macy’s. EYE Black Ball: Marina Abramovic, Joan Smalls and In a decision issued Oct. 27, Judge Dana At the crux of both lawsuits is a state law declar- Riccardo Tisci at Alicia Keys’ annual Keep a Child Alive Sabraw of the U.S. District Court for the Southern ing that companies can’t promote merchandise as Black Ball. For more, see WWD.com. District of California, the court said the class-ac- made in this country if any part “has been entirely tion lawsuit against the jeans company, formerly or substantially made, manufactured or produced known as AG Adriano Goldschmied, and the re- outside of the United States.” The parts could in- tailer could proceed, as the state law took prece- clude fabric, zippers, rivets, threads and buttons FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA dence over a national standard overseen by the made overseas. Passed in 1961, the state legisla- @ WWD.com/social Federal Trade Commission. tion doesn’t conform with national standards estab- The FTC’s authority to regulate “Made in lished by the FTC, which requires that a product TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS U.S.A.” labeling doesn’t supersede the authority of marked as being made in the U.S. be “all or virtu- [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. states such as California to enforce their own con- ally all” made domestically. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. sumer-protection laws, according to court papers. AG, based in South Gate, Calif., declined to com- VOLUME 208, NO. 92. MONDAY, NOVEMBER 3, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, “Outside California, [the] defendants could use the ment on the matter. 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THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ARTWORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY The suit, filed June 4 by David Paz and San fall, notes on all its graphic T-shirts that they’re WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE Diego-based Del Mar Law Group, will now pro- “Made in the U.S.A. of imported fabric.” ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. BOTKIER NEW YORK SHOWROOM 148 WEST 37TH STREET 14TH FLOOR 646.467.7727 BOTKIER.COM 4 WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 3, 2014 Topshop Enters the Fifth Avenue Fray {Continued from page one} There’s very good ceiling height, good natural light from the windows down the side of the building, and we extend 100 feet [west] down the block. What we try to do with all of our flagships is something fresh and new. We don’t want them to look the same. That’s the challenge.” Asked if Topshop will sap business from Saks, which is caddy-corner on Fifth, Green replied, “Everybody taps into everybody’s business. I just really like being on this side of the street,” by Kors and Rockefeller Center. “Saks is fo- cusing harder on the fashion customer. That will be good for us.” Asked to project the store’s volume, Green declined. “I’m a retailer, not a clairvoyant. But you’ve got to be a clair- voyant when you sign the lease.” Some specialty retailers and designers regard their Fifth Avenue sites as market- ing ventures more so than profit makers, Topshop’s high-energy main floor. given the area’s high rents, construction and operating costs. With Topshop, Green insisted, “It’s absolutely not the case,” though he wouldn’t discuss how the flag- ship’s numbers are seen playing out. Topshop opened its first U.S. store in SoHo, on Broadway and Broome Street, in April 2009. That launch was beset by construction and permitting delays. Fifth Avenue has been no cakewalk either, Green acknowledged. “They’re all tough,” to get off the ground, he said. It took a long time for the right Midtown site to become available, partly because it involved a few businesses vacating the location, including Lacoste and a few restaurants. “This has been a long journey,” Green said. “There is nothing simple in New York. Nobody understands the word ‘easy.’” On Saturday, the merchandising over Topshop’s four levels seemed complete and filled with sparkly Lurex skirts, se- quined jumpsuits and beaded evening dresses, sexy miniskirts with fringe, The Fifth Avenue flagship animal-print leggings, skinny and “ultra- Sir Philip is heavily merchandised skinny” flat-front and five pocket jeans, Green without the clutter. festive, faux-fur stoles and fur-trimmed parkas. There’s also a “boutique” depart- ment for clean, contemporary outerwear, town, casual, formal and workwear. “It’s bestsellers. “We lead in with tailoring. In the silk dresses and tops that lend a balance about outfit building,” said Mary Homer, States we do well with suiting, particularly to the aesthetic. Ninety-eight percent managing director of Topshop. “We give with the young business guy, young busi- of the product in the store is under the suggestions on different ways to wear ness analysts who want to look fashionable, Topshop and Topman labels. things, like wearing the $150 sequined rather than the hedge fund executives drop- Up front and sprinkled throughout are blouses with either a pair of jeans or ping $2,000 or more on a suit,” said David what’s labeled “Fifth Avenue exclusives” some animal print leggings. We cover all Shepherd, managing director of Topman. with 75 stockkeeping units in women’s the fashion trends of the season but the Topshop’s U.S. expansion marches and 60 in men’s, including sequined and beauty lies in how you want to wear it, on, although perhaps slower than Green beaded evening dresses, priced $475; in an individual way.” wished when the retailer first entered sheer embroidered dresses for $495, It’s an eclectic, youthful assort- the U.S. Finding the right sites has as well as sequined jumpsuits, men’s ment, for head-to-toe dressing. While proven difficult, so in an unusual move, wool trenchcoats and long, lined item-oriented, there are several Topshop linked with Nordstrom to open men’s tuxedo jackets. categories where Topshop shops-in-shop in Nordstrom stores. At Noticeably absent were sales signs. buys into in a big way, like the same time, Green sold a 25 percent “That’s not our business,” Green denim, which in wom- stake in Topshop and Topman to Leonard said. “We are a fashion business. en’s is offered in seven Green & Partners. I’d like to think that we stick fits — the best-selling “We just opened San Diego two days to our knitting.” That includes being the Joni flat-front ago and have signed leases in Atlanta keeping prices low, with a range skinny silhouette; and the Houston Galleria,” bringing the generally running from $40 tops the Leigh five-pocket U.S. store count to eight. Green said. to $400 to $500 for the highest skinny in lighter “We are now in 51 Nordstrom stores Topshop takes ticketed dresses, men’s suits and denim and the Jamie with a conversation that the number a head-to-toe outerwear. high-waisted five could be bigger. We are also looking to approach. Though Topshop doesn’t like pocket style. “We’re step up our online business here, and to be lumped into the fast-fashion making all of our category, it does put a premium denim in Europe. ultimately we would like to do fulfill- on quick changes on the selling We could go to Asia ment here,” by opening a distribution floor for frequent newness. “We’re but we decided not center in the U.S. rather than continu- running this store on one of the to,” Green said. ing to ship from the U.K. tightest store turns in America,” Outerwear, includ- In addition, Topshop and Beyoncé Green said. “There will be new styl- ing parkas and blanket Knowles have formed a 50-50 joint ing in here every week,” altering capes, and dresses are venture company, Parkwood Topshop about 20 percent of the floor presen- also big volume drivers. Athletic Ltd., to produce an athletic tation each week. Topshop is seeing strong streetwear brand, as first reported by The store, while not lavishly appoint- sales on such items as fur WWD on Oct. 27. It could launch in stores ed, has visual drama, with a massive trimmed parkas, ankle and online in fall 2015 at the earliest. 45-foot-wide backlit graphic in the rear of boots, over-the-knee Topshop has 330 stores in the U.K., and the store, and giant photos of model Cara boots, capes and jeans. is approaching 500 worldwide. Topshop Delevingne, who is currently the face of In Topman, bomb- and Topman are under Green’s Arcadia Topshop, and the first solo face of the er jackets, peacoats, Group Ltd. umbrella. EICHNER brand. There are hanging lamps every- open-knit cardigans, The flagship is “It’s always been a careful strategy — a considered approach,” Green said. where, and mannequins, about 65 in overcoats, black STEVE sprinkled with total, spotlight the mix-and-match ap- skinny-denim jeans, BY “Fifth Avenue “The company is in very, very good finan- proach, and the four overarching mer- Topman’s young, heavy and fashion Exclusives.” cial health. We have no bank debt and

chandise directions: going out on the edgy style. boots, are among the PHOTOS lots of money to expand.” WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 3, 2014 5 WWD.COM Through the Alice + Olivia Looking Glass

Here: Alice + Olivia’s new Melrose Avenue store. Below: The dressing rooms.

By JESSICA IREDALE

ON A CLEAR DAY, the natural light flood- ing the 10th and 11th floors of the Alice + Olivia offices at 450 West 15th Street in New York is so bright, it almost requires sun- glasses to take in unobstructed views of the Hudson River. All the better to illuminate the eclectic fun-house decor designed by Alice + Olivia’s founder, chief executive of- ficer and creative director Stacey Bendet. Each floor has its own special bathroom and kitchen, sleek on the sales floor and retro and kitschy for the design depart- ment. One of the elevator banks is wallpa- A look from the spring collection. pered in a banana pattern that was at one point scratch-and-sniff, though the sniff has faded. Bendet has made the sprawling, FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE ternoon, Bendet was leather jacket, jeans and T-shirts trajec- 21,000-plus-square-foot space a home for wearing a clingy turtle- tory, while Alice + Olivia has pursued a her 321-person staff — the overwhelming WWD.com/ neck with a dramatic very different aesthetic. majority of them women — but when she retail-news. ballgown skirt, and black “I really think of the brand itself as being signed the lease in 2010, something was off. eye shadow applied with truly feminine and I’m truly feminine. This “I kept walking up to those floors and a heavy hand. She is an is what I wear every day,” said Bendet of her I would get a block,” said Bendet, sitting extremely petite person — 10 pounds soak- ball-skirt-at-noon getup. “For every brand as in her office on the prewar, industrial ing wet, her height difficult to gauge because trends come and go, it’s important to react fifth floor, which is part of the building’s of her preference for drastic platform foot- and understand them, but also stay really original construction. “I just couldn’t en- wear. A pixie, though she “photographs re- clear and true to who you are as a brand. We vision myself up there every day.” ally tall. Everyone always tells me that,” said make tons and tons of leather leggings, but The modern space, a minimal contrast Bendet, swiping through the images from to me, it’s not about wearing them in a dirty to Alice + Olivia’s original headquarters her fall ad campaign, which always include rock ’n’ roll way, it’s about wearing them in a in a 1901 artists’ building at 80 West 40th a shot of her, on an iPad. more sexy, dressed-up way.” Street, did not abide by Bendet’s inner Her long, lithe limbs are toned by a Alice + Olivia’s fall collection, in stores feng shui. “I was pregnant and I would devotion to daily yoga, which can be wit- and, last month occupying the windows call Andrew [Rosen, a partner in Alice nessed on Alice + Olivia’s Instagram ac- of Bloomingdale’s 59th Street flagship in + Olivia] and be like, ‘I don’t think we count, which Bendet handles personally, Manhattan, had a dark fairy-tale, fantasy- should move, I don’t think I can move, I posting photos of herself in advanced driven theme inspired by the illustra- don’t think I can work down there,’” said poses, balancing on her hands with her tions of children’s book author Benjamin Bendet. One day, the elevators opened toes on her head or in a backbend kissing Lacombe. There were a lot of metallic bro- onto the fifth floor and it was love at first one of her young daughters. cades, Victorian-inspired lace and over-the- sight, except Diane von Furstenberg had Bendet’s look, which has landed her on knee suede boots. Spring 2015 was a peppy, dibs to build her offices the next door Vanity Fair’s Best Dressed List Hall of Fame, pretty, arty affair full of big florals and ca- Stacey Bendet down. “Then they called and they were is like Tim Burton’s version of a Barbie. Her bana stripes and prints based on Matisse like, ‘DVF isn’t gonna take the fifth floor, personal taste trickles down through all of cutouts, shown at the Pierre Hotel. do you want it?’ and I’m like, yes! So then von Furstenberg, Bendet knows how to Alice + Olivia’s collections: fashion, career, Ken Downing, fashion director and we built it out and it’s just got a cool vibe.” hustle, how to meet the right people, such air (casual) and getaway, a new group that senior vice president of Neiman Marcus, The vibe has proven lucrative, as as her husband Eric Eisner, son of Michael will ship from November to June and is es- described Alice + Olivia’s following as Bendet’s business has surged to sales of Eisner, the former chief executive officer sentially clothes to wear on vacation, but not extremely loyal, partially because there’s $200 million in the last year, including of The Walt Disney Co., and Andrew Rosen. to be confused with resort, which Bendet a consistency to the fit — those pants! — sales of the firm’s own stores. The company “Stacey is hard to forget,” said Rosen, and her president, Deanna Berkeley, found that the customer can anticipate, but also is in a moment of ambitious retail expan- to whom Bendet had been referred by a didn’t really work for them. (They still have because Bendet is giving a lot of fashion sion, having opened five stores in the U.S. friend when she was still designing Web holiday). Prices range from $72 for a T-shirt bang for the buck. “The amazing thing this year alone for a total of 15, including sites. “She came bouncing into my office to $1,698 for an embellished leather jacket. about Stacey is she is her own muse,” the 2,100-square-foot West Coast flagship with a lot ideas.” Dresses hover in the $400 range. he said. “She truly marches to the beat on Melrose Avenue that opened last week. One of them yielded Alice + Olivia. “One year I was like, ‘I want to dye my of her own drum, but her drum is always By 2018, the target is 25 domestic and 50 “I started because I love pants,” said hair black,’ you know?” said Bendet of beating to the right tune before the mo- GRAVES international outposts. The brand’s biggest Bendet. “It was the moment where I was her own carefully cultivated appearance. ment explodes in a fashion trend.” AMY wholesale partners are Saks Fifth Avenue like, everyone’s wearing jeans, no one is “If you look at any sort of woman who’s a Pants are still a big part of the collection, BY and Neiman Marcus. In the last two years, wearing cool pants.” brand, like look at a Madonna or whoever with leggings, jeans and boyfriend trousers they’ve set up partnerships in the Middle She started making flattering, flared- — not that I’m Madonna — but you know, selling all day long, according to Bendet, but STORE East and Asia with Chalhoub, ImagineX, leg pants out of wildly patterned uphol- people evolve and change, and I think I’ve dresses have become the label’s “halo” cate- Al Ostoura Group and Look INC, the op- stery fabrics. “One of the smartest things evolved and changed and grown with the gory, as Berkeley says. They also launched a AQUINO; erating officer of which, Fumio Kikuya, I did — and it was a lesson I think I’ve line. There was a point where I was into gown division in 2012. Shoes and bags came

JOHN reports 172 percent growth for spring 2014 carried through as we built the company the playful thing. I’m kind of sick of that. It’s in 2011 and 2013, respectively.

BY compared with last year. He described the — was that you’ve got to start with one going be a little more sophisticated now.” A customer might come in for a dress customer as “strong women who resonate item so people know what you do,” said The contemporary market has explod- and leave with the bag, shoes and novelty

FASHION with the style of Stacey Bendet.” Bendet. Rosen is also of this mind — he ed since Alice + Olivia launched. What hosiery (done with Pretty Polly), if she’s feel- It’s an impressive operation for a made a major success out of Theory way was a place for modern sportswear for ing particularly sassy. Fall featured a pair of woman who gained entrée into the indus- back when with its fabulous-fitting pants young women back in the early Aughts sheer black stockings that have the words

ERICKSEN; try with the nickname Stacey Pants. — which is part of the reason he decided is now a design-driven, fiercely competi- “I don’t have a dirty mind, I have a sexy That was 12 years ago when Bendet to pour his money into a twentysomething tive category occupied by some of the imagination” written up the back of the legs KYLE Y was Stacey Bendet Weiner, a recent graphic designer peddling cool pants. biggest names in fashion — Alexander in cursive. “There’s such an authenticity to B University of Pennsylvania graduate from “There’s a lot of intangibles. Stacey is Wang, Acne, Isabel Marant, Phillip Lim Alice + Olivia,” said Rosen. “Those women

PHOTO Westchester, N.Y., whose day job was build- a dynamo. She is the most creative, driv- and Rag & Bone, which is also part of that are customers are really Alice + Olivia ing Web sites in Flash. She dreamed big at en person that I’ve seen,” he said. Rosen’s portfolio. Many of the labels in customers because Stacey puts it together

BENDET night. Like her neighbor on 14th Street, On a business-as-usual Wednesday af- the space have followed the trendy, tough for them lock stock and barrel.” 6 WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 3, 2014 WWD.COM

Midterms: Action or Another Stalemate? Oscar de la Renta for Rent the Runway. {Continued from page one} “If the Senate flips, then you can expect more prog- Joe Rinzel, senior vice president for government ress on trade: [the Trade Promotion Authority] first and relations at the Retail Industry Leaders Association, then possibly the two trade negotiations with Asia and, said there is “a lot on the wire in terms of what they separately, with Europe,” Swagel said. “If it doesn’t flip, can do in a lame-duck session. Probably everyone in it is hard to imagine Democrats going along with TPA. It this town wants to get their priority issues done and doesn’t seem very popular on their side.” illustrate a path forward. Some paths are stronger TPA, which expired in 2007 under President than others, and I feel reasonably confident that e- George W. Bush, is seen as vital to completing fairness is one of those paths.” several trade deals, including the Trans-Pacific U.S. companies have been fighting for more than a Partnership negotiations between the U.S. and 11 decade for federal legislation that would enable states other countries and the trans-Atlantic trade deal to collect sales taxes from out-of-state online sellers, but between the U.S. and European Union. Under TPA, several measures have stalled over the years despite Congress can’t amend trade pacts negotiated by the wide bipartisan support in both chambers. Observers executive branch but only vote up or down on them. believe that, in order to have a better chance of passing Juanita Duggan, president and chief executive offi- during the lame-duck session, the Internet sales-tax bill cer of the American Apparel & Footwear Association, that passed the Senate in May 2013 should be combined said she doesn’t expect action any time soon. with a separate, House-passed bill that extends a per- “A lot of people who are in the trade world think manent ban on states taxing Internet access. ’’ there’s going to be a secret trade package,” Duggan Under current federal law, retailers are required said. “I don’t believe it.” to collect sales tax from out-of-state customers only if Referring to whether renewal of the presidential Runway Goes Exclusive they have a “physical presence” in the customer’s state. TPA or a vote on the TPP would happen first, Duggan E-tailers such as eBay and others that don’t have distri- said it was a “chicken-and-egg”situation. with designs from Christian bution centers or offices in a certain state have relied “Republicans in the House say there hasn’t been By RACHEL STRUGATZ Siriano, Lela Rose, on that decision to avoid collecting sales tax on online much presidential leadership on TPP,” Duggan said. Kenneth Jay Lane, Badgley orders. Brick-and-mortar retailers argue that practice “You know from past experience that every trade agree- RENT THE RUNWAY’S going Mischka, Monique Lhuillier, puts them at a competitive price disadvantage and have ment requires the President to be on this 24-7 and forcing exclusive for the first time. Marchesa Voyage and Oscar lobbied for federal legislation to resolve the issue. the Congress to do it. That hasn’t happened so far. Maybe A group of seven design- de la Renta. The 25-piece “The prospect for Internet sales-tax passage is as good it will happen when some of these trade agreements are ers created a 25-piece col- range features three to four in a lame duck as it has ever been,” said David French, closed, but there’s disagreement [on] when should TPA lection specifically for the styles from each, includ- senior vice president for govern- be presented.” Web site, which is celebrat- ing Badgley Mischka’s gold ment relations at the National Julia Hughes, president of the ing its five-year anniversary. sequin crop top and black Retail Federation. “We’re through U.S. Fashion Industry Association, This is a turnabout for tulle midi skirt, which rent the Senate, and I think our Senate The things that said, “The bottom line is, it is hard the next-generation fashion for $45 and $75, respective- sponsors are pushing back over to to see how Congress will have company, which was met ly, as well as a red Monique the House…a version that is chal- seem big and the desire to spend a long time in early on with skepticism Lhuillier silk faille high-low lenging for the House to say no to.” Washington talking about new is- from designers but has be- gown that rents for $400. Rinzel said, “For our part, we hard but possible sues versus coming in after the come an important buyer. Cofounder and chief exec- will continue to [assert] loudly election and acting on a [continu- Rent the Runway often buys utive officer Jennifer Hyman that we need to get this ad- are trade and ing resolution to fund government more pieces than retailers said the Rent the Runway dressed and that it can no longer agencies]” and possibly funding the to feed its growing base of team worked with these de- be ignored by Congress.” fight against Islamic State militants fashion renters. signers to produce pieces that One hot-button issue with sig- immigration. in Iraq and Syria. The collection will hit were “extremely editorial.” nificant implications for retailers Among the industry’s top renttherunway.com today “The intention is to en- and their employees that is not ex- — PHILLIP SWAGEL, priorities for congressional ac- able women to get out of their pected to gain much traction this UNIVERSITY OF MARYLAND tion are TPA; an extension A dress by fashion comfort zone and try year is an increase in the federal of the Generalized System of Monique new brands and experiment minimum wage. President Obama’s efforts to increase Preferences, which expired in July 2013; an extension Lhuillier for with styles that push them. the federal minimum wage to $10.10 an hour from the of the Nicaragua Tariff Preference Level program, set the site. You shouldn’t be renting the private sector’s current $7.25 have been blocked by to expire on Dec. 31, which allows apparel companies in little black dress,” Hyman Republicans, and many are skeptical there will be any Nicaragua to use a certain amount of fabrics and yarns said of the cocktail dresses movement on the issue after the elections. “With the outside of the Central American Free Trade Agreement and gowns that are “far more economy improving, I don’t see any way that the mini- area, and an extension of the African Growth and dramatic” than what the mum-wage increase will pass,” said Swagel. “Something Opportunity Act, set to expire on Sept. 30, 2015. site’s traditionally offered. will happen on immigration, however. We just won’t Hughes said there may be more of an opportunity “We want them all to be state- know until after the election whether it will be legisla- for advancing trade negotiations and bills next year, ment pieces.” tion or, instead, executive action by President Obama.” t’’hough it would be a tight window, likely just the first Rentals range from $20 Celeste Drake, trade and globalization policy spe- six months of the year, due to the looming 2016 presi- for a Kenneth Jay Lane cialist at the AFL-CIO, said, “We don’t have any real dential elections. She said, “In talking to people on the pearl bracelet to $450 for optimism, unfortunately, for either [immigration re- Hill, both Democrats and Republicans, there’s a lot of a Lela Rose twist-sleeve form or minimum wage] coming up in a lame duck. sensitivity that you can’t close TPP until you have TPA.” gown, with three styles from In fact, we think there is a chance for negative things Nate Herman, vice president of international trade Christian Siriano that range for immigrants, like defunding some programs that at the American Apparel & Footwear Association, from $100 to $175. are helpful in dealing with the surge in immigration, noted that Nicaragua’s tariff preference levels are Hyman said renttherun being attached as a rider to [a government spending] about to expire, even though the program has been way.com’s rentals would bill, and we are on the lookout for that.” “wildly successful for exporters and importers, sup- likely reach the equivalent Drake said that if the Republicans do take control porting 1,000 U.S. textile exporter jobs.” Herman said, of $600 million in retail of the Senate, they will have even less of an incen- “The only chance we have to do something about it be- value this year (this total tive to cooperate on issues — such as minimum wage fore the end of this year is during the lame-duck ses- does not include the — that they don’t view as a “must pass.” sion of Congress, and we’re working very hard to try to Unlimited business, “Our view is not that [Senate Majority Leader] get it in, and, if not, we’re looking at trying to do it early which rolled out its Harry Reid isn’t a good friend of working people. It next year and make it retroactive.” beta version in July). is more about getting [legislation] done in a rancor- Herman said the next round of TPP is set The 500-employee ous environment in which Republicans generally for Australia and will lead up to an Asia-Pacific company has three have taken an obstructionist view,” she said. Economic Cooperation meeting next month, with the freestanding doors, On the trade front, industry officials are keeping idea to try to close it then. with a fourth opening a close eye on expiring trade-preference programs “But they are nowhere near an agreement, includ- in Washington, D.C., and ongoing trade negotiations. ing major issues in apparel and textiles,” he added. this month. Michael Kors Joins Tech-Accessories World NEW YORK — Michael Kors’ ex- they need their phones to work from as well as michaelkors.com. pansion into tech accessories morning until night, breakfast to board- “Whether you’re a technophile or a goes beyond the smartphone room, on business trips and vacation.” technophobe, the beauty of this technol- and iPad holders he And never run out of juice. The ogy is that it is so easy,” Kors said. “In already offers. This Kors-designed PowerCase, for example, this fast world, which is only getting fast- month, the designer features a built-in battery that provides er, you never want your phone to die.” is launching a collec- up to 100 percent extra battery power. Kors is joining a growing number tion of phone-charging Kors also collaborated with Duracell of designers who are flirting with tech- cases, earbuds and and designed seven Duracell Powermat nology. Earlier this year, Tory Burch two chargers that are kits for the iPhone 5s/5. Versions of the introduced a collection of bracelets for designed to resemble mat for the iPhone 6 are expected to be Fitbit, and Rebecca Minkoff designed women’s cosmetics, as in a launched early next year. tech-enabled jewelry. Ralph Lauren lipstick and a compact case. The items will be priced from $58 introduced a smart shirt at the U.S. “The men and women who I for the lipstick charger to $140 for Open, and Diane von Furstenberg col- The PowerCase by Michael Kors, design for are constantly on the go,” the Powermat kit, and will launch laborated with Google Glass on optical which features a built-in battery. Kors said. “They live full lives, and this month at the designer’s stores and sunglasses. — MARC KARIMZADEH Monday, November 3, 2014 Accessories Council ACE Awards CONGRATULATIONS TO THE 2014 ACESPECIAL AWARDS PERFORMANCES BY Flo Rida HONOREES Marcus "A.R.T." Bryant HOSTED BY Hal Rubenstein Alex and Ani Bulgari Flo Rida Google Glass kate spade new york Kerry Washington & Lyn Paolo Lord & Taylor Oliver Peoples Proenza Schouler Robbie Myers Rose Marie Bravo Shinola

PLATINUM SPONSORS Luxottica Marchon Swarovski SILVER SPONSORS Coach Hannoush Jewelers/Giftology Judith Leiber Couture Lord & Taylor Movado Nordstrom Pac Team Group Tiffany & Co. 8 WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 3, 2014

For the New York show, Oliver said he took a more business- minded approach to his pieces; Hood by Air Parties at MoMA for instance, eschewing from pre- senting his popular T-shirts in a between Oliver’s ready-to-wear one-dimensional manner. By DAVID YI pieces with original costuming “I wanted them to buy into created for the night. the collection in a different NEW YORK — “I feel like I’ve “People think about us as way,” he said. “In New York we been on a world tour, like we’re flamboyant with these embel- went away from showing that part of a band,” said Shayne lishments that are feminine, it was just a T-shirt for that Oliver of his line, Hood by Air. excessive and not masculine,” purpose. We included men’s “Like we were promoting an he said. “In this last part it’s not wovens to show we could have album in a way.” about women’s wear, or men’s men wear our pieces in a more If the album were his spring wear, it’s this world where these formal way as opposed to a pop collection — which was based elements coexist. I want the piece. People have responded to off of Sigmund Freud’s structural brand to be able to breathe. the direction and it was better model of the psyche — the three “It’s like when you hear a this season for it.” parts of the series are his hit sin- great Lady Gaga song and some The runway also showcased gles: the “Ego,” shown on the run- people may not have the same a move toward accessories, ways of New York; “Superego,” values or even interests in her from handbags to shoes, which presented in an installation in but because the song’s so catchy Oliver said would be a major Paris, and finally, the “Id,” which Scenes from the Hood it will become a part of their focus next season. Last week it was shown last week at an art and by Air event at MoMA. lives,” he said. “We are always was revealed that HBA would music celebration at the Museum happy when people are taking be Pitti Uomo’s guest designer of Modern Art. the part of the brand they want to in January. “Pitti is going to be The presentation Thursday, way to display take for it, but next season we’re where we play with elevated el- open to the public at the MoMA’s new work,” said going to rethink the direction.” ements for the brand,” he said. PopRally, masqueraded as a party, Ashley Young, Oliver said in the coming “That’s where we’ll use our with performances by Oliver’s an- manager of the de- year, his team has adopted a prize money from LVMH.” drogynous muse Boychild, Mykki partment of per- “streamlined thinking” ap- And growing pains attract Blanco and a “human-nequin” in- formance art and proach with boutiques and re- notoriety — good and bad. stallation with dancers scattered PopRally cochair. tailers, cutting stores to become Recently, the rapper A$AP Rocky, among the crowd. “What we love “more focused.” a friend of Hood by Air’s — and “This is our world and we will about HBA is they “That will be the new begin- one of the first celebrities to en- be bringing people into that com- are artists fore- ning and a new way of thinking dorse the brand — took a jab at mercial performance space,” most,” said Chloe moving forward,” he said. Oliver in the single, “Multiply.” Oliver said. While New York and Wayne, senior Thanks to the LVMH Young “HBA s--t is weak, you can Paris were shows that played by manager of finance Fashion Designers prize, which keep that,” the artist raps. the rules of the fashion world, “Id” at MoMA and EICHNER awarded Oliver with one of two “I don’t know about that,” was in a space where Oliver could PopRally cochair. special prizes that consisted of Oliver said when asked about it. showcase who they really are. “If Shayne STEVE 100,000 euros, or $1,260 at cur- “I know Rocky personally, I saw The collaboration came wasn’t a designer BY rent exchange, the designer was him and we were fine. I haven’t about mere days after the he’d be expressing able to secure a few mentors. brought it up, even. But for me brand’s fall show, when MoMA himself in a differ- PHOTOS “They give us sit-downs and it’s how I deal with a friend. I’ll approached HBA. ent medium. It’s how we look at art was the first time the museum has meetings and sort of literally be like, ‘what’s up,’ and if they “We were fascinated with the and think of art. We think fashion collaborated with a fashion de- mentoring, talking us through want breathing room. I’ll give different mediums with fashion, is contemporary art and it’s inter- signer, it would be the launchpad everything from which direc- them that. music and film that Hood by Air esting to explore that.” of future events in the space. tion to take, business structure, “I grow and get over things. used and thought it was a perfect Wayne said that although this The night showcased a mix to brand elevation,” he said. Things change. Seasons change.” MCM Presents Spring Collection in Beijing Looks from MCM’s spring line. ecutive officer, said the company clarifying to the final consumer By LARA FARRAR will open a flagship in New York that we are not a Korean brand.” in December, followed by three This work will potentially BEIJING — MCM showcased a or four stores in the U.S. in 2015. extend to the West, where MCM new collection outside of Europe MCM, already available online has to reintroduce itself to con- for the first time on Friday night in the U.S. via neimanmarcus. sumers who may neither be fa- in Beijing, indicating just how im- com, will soon be available in miliar with the brand nor with portant China has become for the some of the retailer’s brick-and- Korean pop culture. accessories brand since it opened mortar locations. The brand is “Today, we are in a different its first store in the country only also planning to launch its own e- stage of the development of the four years ago. commerce operations in America, brand. We want to be more inter- MCM executives stressed that its first market to operate online national. This is dif- the showing of the brand’s spring sales outside of Korea. ferent from the path collection was meant to be a Additionally, the brand is cre- other brands have global event intended not only to ating a higher-end “Gold Line,” been doing. Usually captivate its young, hip Mainland which is manufactured and de- they are success- consumers, but also potential cus- signed in Italy as part of a strat- ful in Europe and tomers in Europe and the U.S., egy, according to Fontanelli, to re- America, and then where MCM is trying to make ag- position it to Western consumers try to bring that suc- gressive market reentries. as a top-tier luxury label. MCM cess to Asia,” he said. make an impor- brand is perceived as something LOVELL Founded in the Seventies by just inked its first licensing deal “We are the first tant statement trendy that eventually becomes Michael Cromer in Munich, MCM with a European eyewear manu- brand being very here where we feel less popular, as all pop-culture became known for its logo-driven facturer to produce a sunglass successful in Asia SHARRON Paolo we have a domi- entertainment eventually does. accessories, but fell out of fashion and eyeglass line and there are trying to go back to BY Fontanelli nant position in “We basically own the young in the Nineties. In 2005, Sung-joo plans to introduce watches and its roots in Europe the market. This is and contemporary customer in Kim, one of Korea’s top busi- cosmetic products. and in the U.S.” PHOTO the right environ- China. That is one of the reasons nesswomen and head of Sungjoo “We are trying to grow our de- Fontanelli said in addition to ment to make a statement and to for our success,” he said. “The Design & Tech, MCM’s license mographic and give more visibil- increasing distribution channels bring the brand to the next level.” challenge is that we had room holder in the country, acquired ity of MCM into different channels and diversifying product lines, Fontanelli said by the end to grow in the right environment the brand and has made it her of distribution,” Fontanelli said. local celebrities in Europe and of this year, the company will or right positions [with retail mission to reinvigorate its image. “It will be a growth opportunity America would be used for mar- have 45 stores in greater China. locations]. If I had to choose an- Since then, MCM has become for MCM to be seen in other chan- keting purposes. In 2015, expansion will slow in other 10 locations, that would be immensely popular in Korea, its nels of distribution with respect Still, at least for the time the country, mainly because it is more challenging because we number-one market, and China, to what we have today.” being, it appears Asia will re- becoming harder to find top-tier are already the most important which, representing 20 percent Yet a key challenge for MCM main the primary focus. At retail locations, he said. Stores in China’s luxury environment. of global sales, is second. Its is whether the brand will be able Friday night’s event, held at the will also be opened in Taiwan, The second challenge is to main- popularity largely stems from to leverage its popularity in Asia Phoenix International Media Hong Kong and Southeast Asia. tain the appeal from a product marketing campaigns utilizing to grow in the West. Fontanelli Center, a giant bowl-like struc- But while Fontanelli stressed point of view to feed consumer Korean celebrities, who are acknowledged that work needs to ture encased with a web of sil- that MCM continues to see strong requests for something that is dif- hugely influential across Asia, be done to remind consumers in ver steel in central Beijing, all growth in China, untouched by ferent, to try to grow demograph- and in particular China. Asia that it is not from Korea. celebrities were regional, with the slowdown in luxury consump- ics and give more visibility of While Kim’s initial focus was “This is still something we more of an emphasis on Chinese tion in the country, it appears MCM into different channels. on Asia, the brand is turning its will have to work on,” the ex- stars as opposed to Korean ones. there is concern that its populari- “The brand is young,” he attention to the West. Earlier ecutive said. “MCM in China is “Beijing has become an im- ty among what the executive calls added. “I think we have a lot of this year, it reopened its flagship first of all clearly perceived as a portant capital of fashion,” “hip, cool, contemporary con- room to grow even further. We in Munich. Paolo Fontanelli, luxury brand, which is what we Fontanelli said. “We are strong sumers” could wane, particularly have the ambition to become the MCM’s international chief ex- want. But there is still room for here, and we think we want to as these consumers age or if the new school of luxury.” WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 3, 2014 9 WWD.COM Kerry Washington on ACE’s Influencer Award

ring,” said Washington. “I know really do enjoy that our products By LAUREN MCCARTHY what the backstory is, and I’ve are made in America with con- shared it with Shonda, but we’ve scious manufacturing.” NEW YORK — The Accessories never talked about it on the ■ Shinola will be honored with Council, now in its 20th year, show. It’s a bit of a mystery, and Brand Launch of the Year. Chief will host the 18th annual ACE that’s kind of fun.” executive officer Steve Bock will Awards tonight at Cipriani 42nd Other honorees at the awards be stuck in Detroit, where the Street here. The event, hosted Monday night will be: watch manufacturer is based, by Hal Rubenstein, will honor ■ Rose Marie Bravo, former chief but plans to send worthy re- a number of brands, designers executive officer of Burberry, placements to accept the award and influencers within the ac- who will receive the Leadership — Detroit natives who now work cessories industry. award. “I’ve had accessories al- in the factory. “These are the Perhaps the buzziest hon- most all of my business life,” she real stars of the brand, and the oree is Kerry Washington, who, said. “Accessories are the unsung ones that deserve all of the ac- along with “Scandal” costume heroes and in many cases, are the colades,” said Bock. designer Lyn Paolo, will receive foundation for companies from a ■ Now in its 130th year, Bulgari the Influencer award. “It’s such profit point of view.” will receive the Legacy award. a huge honor,” Washington told ■ Robbie Myers, editor in chief Mireia Lopez Montoya, managing WWD, calling from the “Scandal” of Elle Magazine, is getting the director of the brand’s accesso- set. “It means that all the fun that Marylou Luther Award for ries business unit, noted several Lyn Paolo and I have been hav- Fashion Journalism. Myers said key moments in its history. “The ing in our little room for the past the accessories industry had first milestone to be mentioned four years has people enjoying greatly evolved since she became is the color revolution Bulgari it, and that brings us even more editor in chief in May 2000. “The introduced in jewelry starting joy.” Washington said creating market has exploded,” she said. from the Fifties and Sixties,” her character Olivia Pope’s ward- “As fashion has become so democ- she said. “The particular use of robe had been a collaborative ef- ratized and you can see every- colored stones and sumptuous fort between herself and Paolo. thing on the runway the day after volumes is still today a Bulgari “From our very first phone call, the show, it creates even more hallmark and also at the core we’ve been so on the same page ’’ desire for special, one-of-a-kind of our accessory design.” Other and so passionate about this idea things. As an industry, it’s awfully “pillars” mentioned included of reclaiming what power dress- powerful and influential. And for the launch of the Bulgari Bulgari ing looks like for a woman,” she a woman, it’s really an expression watch in 1977 and the brand’s said. “We were taking it very se- of personal style. It’s the details first fragrance in 1993. Coco riously because we are passion- and the way you put yourself to- Rocha will present to Bulgari. ate about fashion and passionate gether that really transmits to the ■ Jack Huston will present the about storytelling, and passionate world who you are and how you Brand Visionary award to Oliver about how identity is expressed feel about yourself.” Peoples. The eyewear brand will through clothing.” ■ Kate Spade New York will also launch its 2015 short film To say the “Scandal” fan base, take home Brand of the Year. campaign, featuring Huston, at Washington and Lyn Paolo who call themselves “Gladiators,” A spokeswoman for the brand the event. “We have an incred- is obsessive would be something noted that handbags and small ibly clear idea of who our cus- of an understatement. “Social leather goods make up more tomer is,” said ceo David Schulte media has had an incredible im- than half of the business. of what separates Oliver Peoples pact on how this kind of collabo- I am never 100 percent clear “Accessories are the core of from competitors. “We don’t rely ration is viewed, especially by what we do,” said president on focus groups — we have a look people in fashion,” said Paolo, about who a character is until and creative director Deborah of a man or woman in mind, many who now oversees a “Scandal”- Lloyd. “If you don’t get acces- of whom we already know, and we inspired line sold at The Limited. I know what shoes she is wearing. sories right, you don’t have per- make frames for them.” “For awhile, people were ask- mission to do anything else.” ■ On the retail front, Lord & ing for the ‘Olivia Pope’ bag — KERRY WASHINGTON ■ Alex & Ani will receive the Taylor will receive Retailer of the at Prada.” Added Washington, Specialty Retailer award. Year. Liz Rodbell, president of “Over the break, I got this gor- Carolyn Rafaelian, founder, cre- Hudson’s Bay and Lord & Taylor, geous new Prada handbag, and when I think about a character,” It had to have weight and reso- ative director and ceo, said the cited the company’s recent con- Olivia Pope exclusively wears said Washington. “I am never 100 nance and hit the ground running. honor encouraged the brand cept shop, Birdcage, as a step to Prada handbags, unless it’s an percent clear about who a char- In the early stage of the storytell- to expand offerings beyond its continuing its relevance in the evening bag. But, I got this bag acter is until I know what shoes ing, Olivia was always in a plat- signature bangles (Alex & Ani accessories world. “[Accessories] in a totally not Olivia Pope color she is wearing. Shoes say so form with a cubed heel, and as she recently began manufacturing is often one of the first areas the — a bright emerald green. I much about what we are — they is a bit wobbly or uncertain with small leather goods, as well). consumer sees upon entering our think I Instagrammed it and all literally define how we walk in her relationship with Fitz, then “Eventually, I’d love to get into stores so it needs to be exciting,” the fans were so confused, like, the world. I literally will come to she’d be in boots with stilettos.” all kinds of things, and that re- she added. “We aim to be the best ‘Wait, is Olivia Pope going to wear work and rehearse in sweatpants, Pope’s simple, barely visible ally depends on the synergies at presenting edited assortments bright color in the next season?’ a T-shirt and Manolo pumps, be- jewelry has equal significance. “I between us and the manufactur- that lead with fashion.” I was like, ‘No, that’s my bag!’” cause I don’t feel like the charac- have a beautiful’’ Monique Péan ers,” she said. “Once I find the Additional honorees include Washington and Paolo noted that ter unless I’m in their heels.” ring that I’ve worn since season right companies and they have Google Glass for its work in Fashion accessories have become story- Added Paolo, “We were also one, and it’s funny because the the capabilities to create a new & Technology, Proenza Schouler telling tools for Pope’s charac- extremely specific from Day One fans are always wondering what product extension with our cate- for Designer of the Year and Flo ter. “I always think about shoes that it had to be a grounded shoe. the significance is behind that gory, then we will. Our customers Rida for Style Ambassador.

A Sharon Wauchob huge effort to make them acces- clutch that unfolds sible. It’s not easy, but [it’s] pos- Sharon Wauchob Does Digital U.S. Push into a portfolio bag. sible,” said Wauchob, whose fan- back.” The idea, she said, is “to do ers that were previously un- ciful blend of delicate lace looks By PAULINA SZMYDKE this for 18 months, [come] to grips available for purchase, will now and heavy artisanal outerwear with it and see how we can offer be sold online. An exclusive bag typically retails for between 80 PARIS — Sharon Wauchob the same service in Europe.” collection will start trading on euros, or $101, for a jersey top doesn’t follow trends, preferring With 150 points of sale at retail- the new site in time for the holi- to 1,500 euros, or $1,907, for a instead to rely on her own fash- ers including L’Eclaireur in Paris day shopping season, as well. Mongolian coat. ion instincts. and H. Lorenzo in Los Angeles, Wauchob said the latter was The designer’s next target, Since the Irish-born designer the label lists the U.S. market as made possible by the difficult following the U.S., likely will set up her women’s wear label its top performer. “Globally, our economic environment that has ROUJAS/NOWFASHION be London. “We are opening a in Paris in 1999, her mantra has numbers are up significantly. But been plaguing Italy, where she London office and showroom in been “Let’s focus on the core the U.S. seems to have recovered manufactures her leather goods. the next six months,” Wauchob,

product, and let’s get it right,” more quickly from the crisis,” ob- “Probably due to the unfortu- GUILLAUME who is a Central Saint Martins

Wauchob explained, sipping cof- served Josh Neville, Wauchob’s nate pressure, [factories] have BY graduate, said, explaining that fee from a paper cup in her ga- chief executive officer, adding, “In become more flexible. There she wanted “to balance Paris and rage-turned-studio in the city’s the past three seasons, we have is suddenly more potential for PHOTO its focus on craft and product Marais district. experienced double-digit growth small brands like ours to go fur- meetings — with a paper-bag with the energy of London — be- But now that her core business in the region.” ther without being blocked or feeling, only more durable,” she cause I think I kept that in me.” is “secure,” she said, it’s time for Sales also have been boosted held back by the necessity to pro- said. The handwoven leather The brand also has ven- her to take “the next big step.” by the introduction of pre- and duce huge quantities,” she said. pieces with fringed hems — tured into social media — just Wauchob is going digital, and resort collections, while the The new range will comprise some glossy, some matte, all in don’t expect any celeb selfies or the U.S. is its first and, for now, label has focused on expanding five different styles of clutches her signature hues of black and wild party postings on its new only destination. “When you do its range of products. that, when unfolded, become white — are expected to retail Instagram account. “It’s not nec- online, it’s about reaching out di- The designer’s crafty shoe portfolio bags. “I wanted this for 700 euros, or $890 at current essary to put yourself out there rectly to the customer to get feed- styles, those catwalk eye-catch- to be something I can take into exchange. “We are making a like that,” said Wauchob. 10 WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 3, 2014

Selena Gomez and Kate Beckinsale spring finale dress on Charlotte Club. After “Do You Really chatted to Foxx. Hayek was busy in Gucci with Cara Delevingne in Casiraghi to the nude chiffon Want to Hurt Me” and “Karma piling her plate at the buffet. Gucci Première. Première creation on Hudson, Chameleon,” Boy George and co. “Excuse me, do you know what and a few Gucci tuxedos on Alex dedicated a cover of “Son of a kind of burger this is?” she asked Pettyfer, Franco et al. Preacher Man” to Tarantino and two guests standing on the other “I’m clad in a quite soft and sang a catchy new tune called side of the table. “I know you are very stroke-able Gucci,” said Eddie “More Than Silence.” guests, but I’m so hungry I need Redmayne of his cashmere tuxedo. After that, most of the celebs to know now.” “It’s quite a cold night here, so convened at Michael and Eva Sandwiched between Hayek I’m getting warmed up. I also find Chow’s Beverly Hills manse for and her husband was the it’s quite good armor, like when more music — Mr. Chow busted Chows’ new neighbor Liberty you go to these red carpets which some impressive moves on Ross, who grew antsy when the I find quite intimidating, when the dance floor while Christian bar line slowed after a server you have a good suit on you feel Louboutin shook it on the sidelines, left to fetch more Champagne. more armed.” and Kirsten Dunst and boyfriend “You know what? I’m going LACMA newbie Gomez, Garrett Hedlund cuddled on a couch back to the front door because wearing one of her signature by the fireplace. In one corner, they were serving full drinks on looks (long, plunging, semisheer DiCaprio was barely recognizable trays right as you walked in.” etc.), didn’t know what to expect beneath a bushy beard as he — MARCY MEDINA when she turned up with date Culture Clique Cara Delevingne. “Obviously I can tell it’s a major event — and I Camilla was worried I was going to be Belle in overdressed at one point. I was Gucci. IT’S FAIR TO SAY that Gucci year, there were also Kering like, ‘Maybe I should go with a had an L.A. moment last week. chief François-Henri Pinault and shorter dress.’ That’s what she Since touching down in wife Salma Hayek, Jennifer Lopez, said,” cracked Delevingne. the city last Monday, creative James Franco, Jamie Foxx, Selena When asked what he was director Frida Giannini and chief Gomez and Kimye in attendance, doing at the event, Ryan Seacrest executive officer Patrizio di plus artists Catherine Opie, Piero replied, “I’m on the board here. Marco christened their newly Golia and John Baldessari. I’m workin’. I’m just a student renovated Rodeo Drive flagship “LACMA is probably the [of art]; I’m learning and having JONES

with a party Thursday, then most important event we do, the a good time exploring. I have KATIE

presented the fourth iteration most visible, in a sense, because an office across the street [at E] BY of the Los Angeles County what happens on Saturday is and I drive by every

Museum of Art’s Art + Film basically to have the whole single day. Every OTHERS FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE

Gala on Saturday. It was, as Hollywood world convene once in a while ALL international partygoers have to celebrate artists,” said I drop in here WWD.com/eye.

come to expect, another starry di Marco Wednesday, to escape from LACMA; night, with regulars such as seated on a brown leather reality and just Kanye West and FOR Kate Hudson, Amy Adams, Kate chair in the new men’s walk around.” Kim Kardashian Beckinsale and Evan Rachel Wood made-to-measure salon Lapo Elkann arrived, in in attendance to support co- on the third floor of the a bright-green tux from IMAGES chairs Eva Chow and Leonardo Beverly Hills store. his Lapo’s Wardrobe for DiCaprio and honorees Barbara Giannini, speaking Gucci capsule collection, Kruger and Quentin Tarantino. This to WWD from her own walking with the help of

perch, a brown velvet two crutches to support SARDELLA/GETTY sofa, in the women’s a sizable cast on one

made-to-measure salon, leg. “I had an accident DONATO

was still having a hard on a scooter and I have BY time adjusting to the three broken ribs and a sunny surroundings. broken tibia. It’s two months- LOPEZ “This morning I was and-a-half more and it’s

having a meeting part of life,” he said of the LACMA;

downstairs and there cast. “I’m lucky I’m not in a FOR was a group of Japanese wheelchair, which I had to

girls, and I said ‘OK, use for one month, IMAGES those are the first clients so I thank God that [it] I’m meeting in L.A. and wasn’t more.” they’re Japanese and I After dinner, the awards

just came from Japan….I were doled out to Kruger LEIBSON/GETTY want to see some (presented by LACMA Matthew American people at this director Michael Govan) and Bellamy in Salma Hayek point, you know?’” Tarantino (presented Gucci with JONATHAN in Gucci with That said, a range of by Tim Roth), the crowd Kate Hudson BY François- Giannini’s work was on Nicola Peltz got to take it back a

Jennifer in Gucci PHOTO Henri Pinault. display on Saturday, from in Gucci. few decades with a Lopez Première. a custom version of the performance by Culture GOMEZ

West’s besties: Riccardo Tisci. his Friday night plans mapped of the entertainment business Before the event even out: “Halloween. I’m going to be quietly slipped in at the last began, the red carpet at the a priest… a naughty priest.” minute and was now snapping eye Hammerstein Ballroom was The evening’s emcees, Beatz selfies with Tisci: Madonna was filled with buzzy names, and Combs, wisely started the in the house. “I’m here to see including a pregnant Keys event with a bang, bringing West all the performances. And also and husband Swizz Beatz, Sean on stage, where he sheepishly I love Alicia’s charity,” said the “Puffy” Combs, Estelle, Gayle King, smiled from the sidelines while singer, who shares with Keys a Lala Anthony, Alek Wek and Russell the hosts tested their best Abbott manager, Guy Oseary. Simmons, all out to support the & Costello routine. It was indeed Her Madgesty charity and Tisci. Before the main act — who appeared to be having the “I’m a longtime fan of the performances by Keys, Nas, most fun once the musicians brand, and he’s taken it to an Angel Haze and David Byrne — took the stage — she sang edgy, lovely, dark, romantic many chose to rubberneck along, she swayed, she paused place,” said Padma Lakshmi. around Tisci’s table. West only momentarily to chat with “And I don’t know if people talk was all smiles, indulging in a West, who himself received

MAZUR/CHILD2014/WIREIMAGE about this, but his prices are number of fan photos, though honorable mention for most- Kanye West, slightly lower. I think he’s been he consistently dropped the enthusiastic audience member, Riccardo Tisci KEVIN very masterful about that.” smile once the shutter snapped grinning widely as he recorded BY and Madonna. The man of the hour, flanked — hey, got to stay on brand videos of Nas and Combs

PHOTO by Joan Smalls and Marina Abramovic, (to that point, he did, in fact, performing together. brought up the rear of the carpet. refuse to speak with the press). By the time Byrne took the “It’s very stressful and His date for the evening, Scott stage alongside Keys to perform Burning Down the House shocking,” he said of the award. Disick, also chose not to talk, “Burning Down the House,” the “But I’m very grateful that despite having a new spin-off entire ballroom was on their FOR SOMEONE married to right — Alicia Keys’ annual Keep Alicia decided to do this. She’s of the Kardashians’ to promote. feet and looking entirely in their Kim Kardashian, Kanye West is a Child Alive Black Ball, which an amazing woman, she’s an “Women’s Wear Daily? That’s element: Madonna dancing, surprisingly antipress. But raises funds for children and amazing artist, and she’s an not me. Congratulations, but West smiling, Tisci mingling, and Thursday night had all the families with HIV/AIDS in amazing mother, but she’s not that’s not me,” he said, clinking Lord Disick, alone in the corner, makings for the rising of Africa. And the evening’s sole selfish.” Tisci noted he was in the ice in his empty drink. puffing on a cigarette. Yeezus. The cause was certainly honoree happened to be one of town for just five days, but had Unexpectedly, a supernova — LAUREN MCCARTHY WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 3, 2014 11 WWD.COM

and Phoebe Dahl. “As humans silver face and embossed leather we love to play,” said Moon. strap and 10 with a blue face FASHION SCOOPS “I love fashion. I always have. and embossed leather strap. The But, with the seriousness of line will retail for $1,395. While what’s happening in the world Zodiac provided the timepiece, ZANINI DEPARTURE RUMORED: Earlier this month, the duo sometimes I can feel guilty Hook + Albert offered the watch Could Marco Zanini already be hosted a Badgley Mischka about indulging. So, this is a straps. Each will come with a eyeing the door at Schiaparelli? fashion show for 1,200 wonderful way to indulge and watch pouch as well and will be Sources say the designer is attendees during the Cali know that the money that might numbered from one to 10. unhappy at the storied brand, Exposhow Fashion Week in be spent selfishly is giving back “We realized that we wanted owned by Diego Della Valle. Cali, Colombia. The designers to something that matters.” The to create a watch that didn’t The entrepreneur, chairman exited Cali with a key to the beneficiary of a portion of the break the bank,” said Cory and chief executive officer of city. Now back in Manhattan, night’s purchases was Children’s Rosenberg, the brand’s cofounder. Tod’s Group, tapped Zanini as they are gearing up for the New Action Network. The next stop “What you get is this cool, Schiaparelli’s creative director York Botanical Garden’s Winter for the preview party will be vintage feel with an amazing at the end of September last Wonderland Ball with a Nov. 11 New York, and final destination brand and still gives the year. According to one source, preview party at their Upper is Bologna, Italy where Baker customer a cool feeling of being Zanini feels the label “is not East Side boutique. Byrdie Bell, Emma resides. — ERICKA FRANKLIN a collector’s item.” exactly his fit.” Cristina Cuomo and Alexandra Lind Watson Rosenberg, along with His first couture collection Rose are among the event’s WEXNER GETS TOP HONOR: Adam Schoenberg, launched for Schiaparelli, presented hosts who will be on hand. GRAVES AMY BY PHOTO Leslie H. Wexner, chairman and the site in 2010 to offer men’s in Paris in January, received — R.F. [Dignidad].’ My dream roles are chief executive officer of L furnishings from dress socks to critical plaudits. Channeling the ones I’m playing and I’m Brands, will receive Chief lapel flowers, and shoelaces. the witty and innovative Italian BRIT FIT: The Brits are known for getting, so I’m really excited.” Executive magazine’s lifetime It has since expanded to offer designer Elsa Schiaparelli being able to handle a mouthful The day before, another achievement award at the knit ties and dopp kits, among herself, in March, Zanini of words with aplomb, so those Burberry poster child, Eddie CEO2CEO Leadership Summit, others. The watch collaboration, presented his first “prêt-à- in attendance at Thursday Redmayne, hosted a pre-Britannia held on Dec. 4 at the New York Rosenberg said, signals that couture” collection for the night’s BAFTA Los Angeles tea at Chateau Marmont, and Stock Exchange. the brand will also venture into brand, sold exclusively at Jaguar Britannia Awards, held the night before that, Burberry Wexner, 77, is the longest- timepieces in the future. Schiaparelli’s Place Vendôme at the Beverly Hilton Hotel, was also a sponsor of the serving ceo of a Fortune 500 “It’s going to take us a few salon and offering levels of were game for a long night of Redmayne-Felicity Jones film “The company. He started The years to introduce to the market service similar to couture. presentations and speeches. Theory of Everything” at the Limited in 1963 with a $5,000 but it’s going to be something The Milan-born Zanini Among the honorees were Dame Academy of Motion Picture Arts loan from his aunt and nurtured unique and special with a Hook was previously the designer Judi Dench, director Mike Leigh, and Sciences. that investment into a $10 billion + Albert twist,” he said. of Rochas. He cut his teeth at Robert Downey Jr., Julia Louis-Dreyfus, — LINDZI SCHARF company whose — DAVID YI Versace, logged a two-year stint Mark Ruffalo and Emma Watson, FOR MORE brands include at Halston, and had also worked who picked up the Britannia BAKER GETS THE BOOT: SCOOPS, SEE Victoria’s Secret, WU’S GRAND TOUR: Through an at Dolce & Gabbana and Award for British Artist of the On Thursday night, Bath & Body Works ongoing partnership, Jason Wu Lawrence Steele. Asked about Year, presented by Burberry devotees of the cult WWD.com. and Henri Bendel. has teamed up with the St. Regis the speculation he was leaving (she wore Balenciaga). Still, brand Fiorentini Over the years, Hotels & Resorts to design a the label, Zanini said he does she was otherwise on message. + Baker traveled to he has cultivated customized product. His Grand not comment on rumors, while Said Watson on the red carpet, Abbot Kinney in Venice Beach and spun off top retail Tourista Scarf is meant to have Schiaparelli officials could not where she shared a hug with for a preview of the spring brands such as Lane Bryant, an East-meets-West feel and is be reached for comment. Dench: “It’s really meaningful, collection. In a town where heels Abercrombie & Fitch, Lerner offered in three different colors. — LUISA ZARGANI AND obviously, because Burberry was at parties reign supreme, boots New York, Express and his Kate Bosworth was among the first ROSEMARY FEITELBERG my first big modeling contract, were for once the dominant flagship property, The Limited. to be seen wearing one of the and they really supported me choice for footwear. On an open- Thanks to his support, Ohio scarves, which officially make KEEP MOVING: Like many designers, through out my career. And to air patio, designer Deborah Baker State University in 2012 named their debut today. The $191 silk Mark Badgley and James Mischka have this from the British film explained that Italy played a the Wexner Medical Center in twill design with a geometric aren’t walking away from the industry is such a huge piece of role in her design process. “A his honor. — LISA LOCKWOOD pattern and hand-rolled edges is equestrian life, but they did sell recognition. I’ve been working little bit of the inspiration comes now being sold via Wu’s and the their Locust Valley home earlier in the British film industry now from really terrible weather WATCH OUT: The accessories St. Regis’ Web site. this month. The designers are in since I was nine years old, so it’s in Italy this year,” she said. brand Hook + Albert Geared for luxury travelers, search of new digs in the North really lovely. It means a lot.” The “It’s really normally beautiful collaborated with the Swiss the scarf draws design Fork town, presumably not far actress has a busy year ahead: everyday with blue skies. But, timepiece brand Zodiac to inspiration from today’s version from Hunter’s Moon Farm, where “I have a film that’s coming out there were thunderstorms and create limited-edition pieces of the grand tour and Istanbul, Badgley keeps and trains his next year called ‘Regression.’ I really strange weather. So that’s that will launch today on their where the St. Regis will open horses. While the pair commute just did a movie with Alejandro where you get the black and Web site. Under Zodiac’s Sea a 118-room Emre Arolat- between North Fork and Gold Amenabár, which I’m very excited shades of blue.” Lilakoi Moon, the Dragon Line, the brand will designed hotel with views of Coast, Long Island, they also have about. I’m working on a film actress formerly known as Lisa offer only 30 pieces, 10 with a the Bosphorus in Macka Park in an apartment in Manhattan. at the moment called ‘Colonia Bonet, cohosted with Shiva Rose green face and strap, 10 with a February. — R.F.

The title has a track record in the region: Harper’s Bazaar Arabia was MEMO PAD introduced in Dubai in 2007. Marka is the first retail-focused company to list on BAZAAR EATS: Product extensions Dubai’s stock exchange, the DFM, and was are media’s new holy grail — and the first to conduct an initial public offering now Harper’s Bazaar is hoping that since 2009. Shares began trading on the For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. readers’ hearts can be won through DFM on Sept. 25. — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD their stomachs. The title is opening a café — but not just any ol’ greasy SHARPER IMAGE: Alexander Wang is known spoon. This will be a Harper’s Bazaar- for bringing an athletic edge to fashion branded eatery in Dubai, the mother — and the link now extends to recruiting Spaces lode of luxury spenders. for the communications department Hearst Magazines International at Balenciaga, where Wang is creative COMMERCIAL is partnering with Marka PJSC, a director. The French fashion house Dubai-based retail operator focusing has tapped Demetria White, Nike’s global REAL ESTATE PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS on acquisitions, franchise agreements communications director, as its new Full service shop to the trade. and retail concepts in the United Arab global communications and image Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 Emirates. The eatery will open in director, WWD has learned. White is to November 2015. The deal was brokered relocate from Oregon to Paris and start 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes by IMG Licensing, which is the exclusive Dec. 1. She reports to Wang and Isabelle Menswear Showrooms product-licensing representative for Guichot, Balenciaga’s president and chief D. Levy Adams & Co. 212-679-5500 Bazaar outside of North America. executive officer. Although it’s interesting, the While White has worked for the concept isn’t exactly a novel one. Condé sporting-goods powerhouse since Nast International launched Vogue- 2007, most recently focused on special branded cafés, which are now located projects, she started her public-relations in Moscow, Kiev and in The Dubai Mall, career in luxury, and has worked at years ago. According to Condé Nast Yohji Yamamoto, Christian Dior and International’s Web site, it will open a agency PR Consulting, where her Vogue lounge in Bangkok “soon.” The accounts included Nike and Balenciaga. media company also has GQ-branded White succeeds Lionel Vermeil, who in bars and Tatler-branded Clubs. The September joined Balenciaga parent Vogue Café in Dubai opened in 2013 via Kering as its director of fashion and a partnership with Inspired Brands. luxury intelligence, as reported. Kering Once the first Harper’s Bazaar café noted White would bring her “knowledge opens, Marka will roll out nine more of fashion, sports and lifestyle in this new across the Middle East through 2020. chapter of the house.” — MILES SOCHA STARTS NOVEMBER 7 at 8PM EST

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