I. ! '· .. / I'V S:>/f-., « /' " ,:...... {_,.·

,---

BOEING EMPI.OYEES ALPINE SOCIETY, INC .

...------•L}- ~_IJl/4 ·President, Dwight Baker, EALPS Treasurer, --:iee9'0 ; /, Vice Pres., Ron Johnson, 655-9572/ '2-b$4 · Secretary, .--,,. . ; -,-•if .>r , ,,_< LI[_) f' •\.. JY·~C ' ~ ~ ------~ . ./ I

c.. 1 .: ~, __;'_. ; :~_,: '\JANUARY MONTHLY MEETING

,4 7:30 P.M. -~~·-... ~-- /

JANUARY PROGRAM

The ascent of 17,400 foot Mt. Foraker via "Talkeetna Ridge", a new route,

will be shown by Alex Bertulis at the 'C January meeting. -~r ~ ./...c1:.,..- Mt. Foraker, the second highest mountain -~.. in the United States is located near Mt. McKinley. Due to its close proximity to McKinley it has received very little attention from expeditions to the area, Three ascents were made prior to this ascent by Alex Bertulis, Hans Baer, Pete Williams and Warren Bleser, All three of these were from the north and east.

From the south Mt. Foraker rises abruptly 10,000 feet from the Lucuna Glacier. This southern exposure is broken by three ridges, the central one which the party named "Talkeetna Ridge" provided them a long and difficult new route. ANNUAL ALPINE SOCIEI'Y BANQUET IS CUMBS A SUCCESS The "easy" ski and/or snowshoe route A fine turnout of 108 members and from Naches Peak to Piz Roland as guests attended the second annual described by Lee West in the December BOEALP banquet held at the Town and ECHO was attempted by Dave Hambly, Country Club on December 13th. Bob Storaasli, Lee West and Ron Johnson on December 8th. Due to the Those who looked around the hall probability of a JOO foot ski rappel may have noticed that we were also in limited visibility and no rope, quite honored by the attendence of it was decided to ski back to the Dr. Tom Herbein, Dee Molenaar, Dick car without completing this "easy" Emerson and Maury Muzzy. route. Although it may be said that our Skiing, along with a few well placed dinner could not be classified as falls provided the necessary enter­ par excellence, this was far out­ tainment to make the trip enjoyable. weigh,·d by the program presented by Leigh Ortenburger. (Lee West - do you have another "easy route" you would like to attempt?) Leigh had hoped to show the filmed ascent of Chacraraju but due to a R.J. mixup in duplication the film, it did not arrive in time. As a sub­ stitute, and possibly to our advan­ tage, he lectured on the aspects of climbing in the Cordillera Blanco of Peru, and presented a slide show depicting several climbs of the better known giants of South America. Among these were Huascaran Sur (22,206 feet), Huntsari Norte (20,057 feet), Huntsan Sur (20,982 feet), LOST Huandoy, Palcaraju (20,585 feet), Chopicalgui (20,998 feet), Copa, An illuminated pointer was misplaced and the ascent of Chararaju via the at the November monthly meeting. If classic North Ridge. Leigh's you may know the whereabouts of same program was well received by all please contact Lee West (5-1380). those in attendence and in addition he has promised to provide us with the filmed version of Chararaju in the near future. Our thanks for the success of the banquet go to Lee West who made the arrangements to bring Leigh Orten­ burger from California to Seattle and entertained him during his stay here. In addition, credit should be given to Bob Storaasli and Bob Gunning for their support and also our travel agent, Charlie Brown. Hopefully, in the future we will see a few more of the seldom seen faces of the club in attendence. Ron Johnson •

MINUTES OF THE DECEMBER BOARD MEETING HUT DISCUSSION RESULTS by Dwight Baker 12-12-68, at Lee West's home. The December 5 meeting was spent aJmost Chairman Baker was ill, therefore BOEALPS entirely on the question of a mountain hut, vice president, Ron Johnson, presided, Ron Mayo, Hut Committee Chairman, presented plans for two types of structures: one, Items discussed: designated "chalet" to sleep 20, and a smal­ a. 2nd Annual Christmas Banquet ler, simpler design designated "hut" to sleep 16. Dwight Baker presented a summary of work b, January meeting done so far by the committee, potential sites c. 1969 membership - to go out as a seper­ investigated and a financial summary. Slides ate mailing with self-addressed envelopes, of a number of potential sites were shown. ct: BOEALP dues for 1969 (-l!inotion follows). After the presentation, ballots were handed out for a vote on the type of structure and type of site, Before voting on the ballots ifMOTION: a hand count vote was taken on the question "Due to the amount of money existing in of whether to build or not build at all. the club treasury and the need for a con­ Results were 22 in favor of building, and 17 siderable amount of money to initiate opposed. Results of the ballot vote were as follows: ____ ~------chalet/hut construction, a motion was made and unanimously passed, as follows: Back-Pack­ Road-End­ •Prior to any building expenditure In-Type Type ------ii approval by the Executive Board, Chalet 2 1 the first years allotment of bonds _H_u_t____ --_ ------~------1 10 (200 @$5 ea, as stated in the Chalet 10 Proposal passed by the club member­ ship at the December general This vote indicates the club is in favor of 1968 meeting) mus,t, be sold. 1 a hut rather than a chalet, However, the ii4uuuu result of the site vote was about equally divided between the back-pack-in-hut, and the end-of-road-hut concepts. Since no vote on a specific site was taken, and the need for a site decision can be deferred for several more months, further work on site selection, limited to back-pack and road-end types will continue, The specific site will be put to HOE TRIP into possib LP a club vote sometime next spring. _U'l)-~~~at~;S~~now Lak · e _ In the meantime, the committee will proceed rest. Meet / with development of detail plans for the hut, in North Bend at IBUOOOfHNM (Saturday). chance to c ut the early snow conditiou~-~ :i,eooer: Ron Mayo, 655-1856 \ '------l lJ/7 [U f M !f, -~-- ·/ ' r7

Page 3 BOEING EMPLOYEES ALPINE SOCIETY, INC.

President, Dwight Baker 177-1140 Treasurer, Charles R. Brown 773-4223

Vice Pres, D Ron Johnson 655-3409 Secretary II Pat King RO 2-4244

FEBRUARY MONTHLY MEETING

THURSDAYD February 6, 1969• 7:30 p.m.

B.S.R.L. Math Seminar Room

FEBRUARY PROORAM

Winter Mountaineering Seminar Discussion Panel: Al RandallD Chuck Crenshaw, Everett Lasher

Here is an excellent opportunity to increase your knowledge of winter mountaineering l by listening to the experts. The members of the panel are certainly experts having climbed high in the most severe winter weather. Whether you are an expedition climber or the average weekend climber or hiker there are many aspects of winter mountaineering which should be of interest in rounding out your mountain experience. Be sure to bring your questions as there will be a generous amount of time provided at the end of the seminar for a question and answer period.

1969 MEMBERSHIP DUES

The new membership roster Dwhich will become the Echo mailing list is now being pre­ pared. The list will include only paid members. Membership information was mailed to all members in December. Mail your dues and application soon or you may miss an Echo. Any questions regarding membership may be referred to Bob StoraasliD extension 5-2416.

I...------·~_,,,.....,,..., ______SCHEDULED ACnVITIES FOR FEBRUARY SUMMERLAND - MT. RAINIER PARK TRIP REPORT (SNOWSHOE/SKI TOUR) MT. CATHERINE - Ron Mayo, Roger Smith & Ron Saturday & Sunday, February 8th & 9th. Here is a Bing went on an enjoyable winter outing in the chance to get away from the crowded ski areas & Snoqualmie Pass area on January 19th. Ron Mayo, lift lines & ski the open untracked slopes around on skis, Rodger & Ron Bing on snowshoes, left Panhandle Gap, Meany Crest, & the lower Fryingpan Ski Acres about 9:00 A .M . , went as far as the Glacier. All snowshoers welcome for trail breaking. saddle below the west ridge of Mt. Catherine, & Drive via Enumclaw (Wash. 410). Turn off at Sunrise were back in Seattle by 5:00 P .M. It was a nice entrance road & park at White River Ranger Station. day with a little sun. The snow clung to the tal I Tour wil I start from Ranger Station at 7:30 A .M. trees, making a very beautiful winter scene. The Saturday. Snow camp at Summerland - dist. approx. going was. fairly good with the skis and snowshoes 6 miles. Contact Ron Johnson, PA 3-0205 or sinking into the snow less than a foot. 655-3409. RON BING * * MT. Pl LCH UCK * * (SNOWSHOE/SKI TOUR) MORE TRIP REPORTS NEEDED FOR ECHO - Let us he.or what you have been doing. Please send in Sunday, February 16th. Tour to summit of Mt. a short resume of your climbs or snow tours. Pilchuck (5,335 ft.), elevation gain 1,500 ft., WHETHER YOU THINK THEY ARE INSIGNIFICANT 5 - 8 hours. Bring ice axe. Leave Seattle by 6:00 OR NOT, THEY ENCOURAGE OTHER MEMBERS A .M. Meet leader by 8:00 A .M. at the Mt. TO KEEP ACTIVE. Send to Ron Johnson, M/S 4F-43, Pi !chuck State Park ski area. Drive via Granite erg. 2-6545. Falls (Wash. 92) to l mile past Verlot Ranger Station * * & turn right. Fo I low road to ski area. Sign up with EDITOR RETIRES Ken McCarty, LA 3-5606 or 773-2220 by Saturday noon, February 15th. Pat King, our Echo editor since September has gone * * on to bigger & better things. Her efforts in compiling SNOW CAVE & IGLOO BUILDING information for our monthly bulletin & getting it out to the membership will be greatly missed. Especially Saturday & Sunday, February 22nd & 23rd Snow by our temporary editor. To say the least, it is a cave & igloo building exercise at Reflection Lakes big job & gets little recognition unless things do. not in Mt. Re1inier Park. Those interested should contact get out on time. Lee West, 5-1380 or GL 4-0710, no later than Monday, February 17th. The BO EALP tents have A well deserved thank you for a well done job & been reserved for this weekend in the event that the 3 cheers are in store for Pat. Certainly her name snow cave, igloo building learning curve & snow will be inscribed on that little house. If you have conditions are unsatisfactory. Cooking & bui Iding access to a typewriter & can donate a little time, parties will be limited to 4. They will require please let us hear from you. over & above normal personal winter mountaineering equipment: * * WARNING - SNOWSHOER$ & l Snow Shovel 2 Pair Extra Mittens SKI TOURERS l Snow Saw 2 Candles - 6 inch The Forest Service is using an avalanche gun on The party will meet at the Gateway Cafe near the Denny Mountain to protect the Alpental area from Nisqually entrance to the park at 7:30 A.M. avalanches. This requires shooting explosive shells Saturday, February 22. NOTE: All interested into the west end of Cave Ridge and the west and persons should study the igloo building illustrations south sides of Snoqualmie Mountain. Shooting usually shown on pages 7 thru 9 . will be between 7:00 and 9:00 A.M., but weather * * conditions could necessitate shooting at any time, day or night. Persons traveling into this area should check with the Forest Service office at Snoqualmie Pass or the Snow Ranger in the area. Everyone hiking, PAGE 2 SKI INSTRUCTIONS

The first 6-week series of ski instruction is well under way and half over. A total of 45 skiers (or future skiers) are taking these lessons. However, the special class for ski instruction in deep powder WARNING - SNOWSHOERS & techniques had to be cancelled for this session SKI TOURERS because of lack of interest (4 members signed up). (Continued} This class in deep "powder" techniques is a golden opportunity for us to learn to ski the Northwest ski touring or snowshoeing in the Snoqualmie Pass "crud." Hans Fogg, who is director of the Northwest area should sign out at this office & remember to Ski School and also a very avid ski mountaineer and sign in when returning. Parties beginning tours from climber, is personally setting up these classes and the top of the Alpental chairlifts are required by the tailoring them to the needs of the BOEALP'S. If you Forest Service to sign out at the box provided inside think that in order to take these lessons you have to the Alpental lodge. be able to wedel down the likes of Sunnyside and the Exterminator at Crystal Mountain, you're wrong. EDITOR'S NOTE: Along with development comes If you are a good stem christie skier (or of better restrictions. How much more development wi II ability on the packed slopes, and you want to learn there be in the future? Another ski development to ski the REAL deep powder, then you are e.ligible in one of your favorite winter areas may not be for these ski lessons. These deep powder lessons far away. wi II begin Sunday, February 23 at Stevens Pass. * * They wi II be avai Iable only at Stevens Pass. NEW ZEALAND FLIGHT Also, regular ski instruction wil I be available for all levels of skiing ability beginning Sunday, An invitation has been extended to members of the February 23 at Stevens Pass, or Sunday, February 1<­ BOEALP'S to attend a film and slide program on at Snoqualmie Pass. The cost is $12.00 for members. New Zealand. The Mountaineers are sponsoring a 4 week flight to New Zealand, Fiji and Australia If you know of anyone outside of the BOEALP'S or in November. Since a number of BO EALP'S are Boeing, they can also take advantage of this deep interested in climbing in the New Zealand Alps powder session. Pass the word along to any interested this is an excellent opportunity to get first hand friends. If they are members of SPEEA and not information on the area. Program is February 1st, members of the BOEALP'S, they can sign up thru 7:30 P .M. at the Mountaineer's Clubroom. the SPEEA Ski School for $12 .50. Anyone else, the cost is $15 .00. For more information, contact * * Glenn Riehl, CH 4-7531, or Max Junejo, WE 7-8687 evenings only. * *

CLIMBING COURSES FOR 1969

As a club with a relatively smal I number of active members, it is not practical to offer formal training courses. However, the club strongly encourages all inexperienced members to obtain at least a comprehensive knowledge of the basic fundamentals of mountaineering and to develop the necessary skills and techniques. This can best be accomplished by completing one or more of the courses shown in the following list (see next page). If you have questions regarding course selection, please feel free to contact Ron Johnson, 655-3409, or any of those individuals shown on the following schedule.

PAGE 3 ORGANIZATION COURSE OFFERED LOCATION COST-- CONTACT (2) Mountaineer I s Basic Climbing Mountaineer 1s $ 10 .00(1) Chuck Heurtly (Seattle) 6 Lectures Clubroom ME 3-1776 6 Field Trips 719 Pike St. 3 Climbs Seattle . Feb - June

Intermediate Mountaineer 1s $8 .oo0> Chuck Heurtly 5 Lectures Clubroom ME 3-1776 4 Field Trips 719 Pike St. 2 Climbs Seattle April - Sept

I .. l Highline Basic Climbing · ·· ! Highline College $25.00 Jim Mitchel I College 6 Lectures ! April - June 655-9619 4 - 5 Field Trips EX 2-5995

3 - 5 Climbs I I Intermediate I High line $25.00 Jim Mitchel I 4 Lectures College 655-9619 .· il 2 - 3 Field Trips .,l April - June EX 2-5995 ! 2 - 3 Climbs .l I ·.\ ----+ )Bellevue Basic Climbing Bellevue Com . Community College ... College ! John Pollack I March - June 654-6881 10 Lectures $25.00 I EM 2-4010 Shoreline 8 Field Trips or · Shoreline or College Climbs March - June Harmon Jones I 655-1920 Seattle Community Basic Climbing Seattle Com. College College March - June

University of Wn Basic Climbing University of $,25.00 Peter Steilberg Wash. 543-1717 April - June LA 2-4338

Washington Alpine I Ba,k:-c11mbing (Location not $6.00 Dave Mitchel I Club yet announced) WE 7-6696 I April 16 - or May 21 Ginny Wyatt I BA 6-3929

(1} MEMBERSHIP REQUIRED -$15.00 ($9.00 dues and $6.00 initiation). (2) Registration - February 5, 7:00 P .M. at Clubroom PAGE4 .•. BOEALP ACTIVITY SCHEDULE

!'-,------,.------,-__.;.__;, ______

CLIMBING SKI 'MOUNTAINEERING HIKE/CAMPING RON BING ALAN RHONE JERRY HILLIS 655-4810 655-1312 SP2-6167

FEBRUARY MT. PILCHUCK RAINIER SNOW CAMP KEN MC CARTY LEE !~EST FER. \&T\o\ LA::l-5606 OVERNIGHT SKI TOUR MT. RAINIER FER ■ 8-9 MARCH MT. HOOD SELKIRKS OLYMPIC BEACH HIKE ALAN RHONE ------TOMYHOI PEAK ______...,.,______-+- ______RON JOHNSON ...,______.. ,__ APRIL MT. ST. HELENS GRANITE MOUNTAIN MOUNT SI .·

MAY MT ■ BAKER ENCHANTMENT LAKES {3 DAYS CAMP MUIR DWIGHT RAKER RON MAYO ------655-1856 EM4-5719 .. GUYE PEAK JUNE MT. ADAMS BOSTON BASIN LAKE KACHEES {CAR CAMP} ------__...... __... - MT. INDEX SUNSET PARK NORM CLARK 931-2284 BAb-2325

JULY MT ■ RAINIER DECEPTION LAKE D. BAKER - PAUL NEFF {STEVENS PASS} CASTLE ROCK ~-MT. --JEFFERSON--· AUGUST GLASIER PEAK ~UINALT LOW DIVIDE - -MT. - STEWART SEPTEMBER CHAIR PEAK COPPER LAKE KEN MC CARTY JERRY HILLIS -- - THE -TOOTH ERHARD bJICHERT

PAGE 5 AVALANCHES AND YOU

The avalanche season has begun and from all indications it appears that this year will be a prime one. Our March monthly meeting hos been tentatively scheduled for the subiect of avalanches, with Ed Lachapel, a well-known authority on the subject, as our guest lecturer.

However, don't wait until then to take heed to the danger. Every year a few unsuspecting or careless persons are swept away and buried. Of this I can speak for myself from a rather not mentioned part of a club outing last spring.

The creation of a potential avalanche and its eventual release depend on a number of interrelated factors, so interrelated and complex in fact that it is still impossible to forecast with any exactitude when an avalanche will start and what it will do. Most people who have not studied the subject believe that the steepness of the slope is the most important factor, however, in reality the properties of the snow cover and the quantity of snow are more significant.

The following is o very approximate guide to the relationship between depth of new snow and the avalanche danger it constitutes: 6 inches to I foot - slight local danger to skiers or climbers; I foot to 2 feet - considerable local danger; 2 feet to 3 feet - local danger without triggering by skiers or climbers; 3 feet to 4 feet - onset of great general danger. These figures can only be approximate because, as the saying goes, it is not only the quantity of snow which foils that causes avalanches, but also the manner in which it falls. Far example o fall of only 4 inches of snow accompanied by high winds con produce local dry­ slab avalanche conditions which are dangerous for the climber or skier. In fact, wind nearly always increases the danger, especially winds with velocities between 20 - 40 mph.

The intensity of the snowstorm is also very important. If a fall of soy 30 inches is spread over a long time, it produces far less likelihood of avalanches than if it fell over a short period.

Avalanches can occur on slopes down to 22° and in special cases on slopes of less gradient. The figure of 22° being derived from the friction an%'es of granular snow. However, wet-snow avalanches have been observed to start on slopes of only 6 to -/1 behaving more like a liquid than a granular substance. Along with steepness of the slope its configuration and features, orientation and ground cover are of prime importance. Bushes and shrubs help to anchor the snow cover but once they are completely buried, they ore of no help against surface avalanches. In fact, they can have a detrimental effect on stability due to air circulation in open spaces around the bush or shrub. Woodlands provide the greatest protection, except when there are long open slopes above on which an avalanche can gather momentum.

Now that I've eliminated all the areas where we travel in the winter except the resting place on a summit, it's time to prepare yourself. First pick up some of the fine books on the subject. There are many with a wealth of information. Observe the terrain and weather conditions both before and during your trip. When you cross that possible avalanche slope avoid being the trigger. Ideally, the track cut should be as divergent as possible from any likely fracture line. Cross one at a time, a minimum of 50 yards apart, loosen your ski or snowshoe bindings and remove your wrists from the ski pole loops. Be sure also to make use of that avalanche cord; it can be as important as a climbing rope in rock climbing.

I hope this has helped stir your interest. Space does not permit more than scratching the surface of the subject. The rest is up to you. Ron Johnson

PAGE 6 IGLOO 8UILDING

-.. '--...... ·--.... IGLOO DIAM£TER FOR ON£ MAN = .B FEET TW'O MEN = 9 II TH/?££ 11 /0 11 FOUR 11 12 II FIVE 11 13 II

-...__...... "' ' ·~' "'" '- ...... ' ------

BLOCK FOR SUPPORT

5.££ SH££T 8 FOR RELATED VIEW PAGE 7 S£CONf)

FIRST ROW'

S£E SHEET 7 FOR RELATED VIEWS

£AC/-/ BLOCK MUST CONTACT AT a, h l C NO CONTACT a d ... AT d I, e

TH£ h'OLE FOR THE KEY STONE SI-IOULD B£ LONG£/? THAN WIDE. TH£ KEY BLOCK IS THE LAST BLOCK FITT£0, AND IS PUT IN FROM TH£ /NS/0£.

PAGE 8 ,{' BANk/#6 I BLOCI< HIGH

20°F CHANG£

CAMP UTENSILS

..., ·- .. -~·-..-- _,. ... _. ------

PAGE 9 801:#G .~ A1.P1te SOCl!TY, INC.

Presi&1ent. • u.,,,i.gbt Baker 177-ll40 Treasurer, Charles R. Brown 173-1.223 Vice President, Ron Johnson 655-3~Cl9

.MW:H IOfflt.Y MEETI(:E . . THURSDAY, MFch 6, 1969, 7;30 p·.m. B.6.R.L. Math SemiD&J" RPOIII

J"ARCH PROORAM AVALAUCJil:S Mr. Lloyd McGabney, u.s.F.S. Chief' Snov Hanger .:. Crystal Mountain Ski Area will pre1ent & 32 111,inute movie ill~trating principles ot avalanches vith spectacular actual avalanche scene■• In addition to presenting the film, Mr. Mc:Gabney vill give us acme practical pointers on avalanches and answer queaticma. He baa had avalanche technical training and considerable practical experience in evaluating anov conditions on 9J"yatal 1 ■ ~ avalanche prone ■ lopes. Be controls conditions vith explosive,art,t.µ.ery apel.lJJ am\ band charges and detel1Dinea which areas are to be opened. tor akiiDg. Thia ia a tine opportW1ity to learn more· about this a.speet of mountaineerin~ and bruah up on ;rov avalanche. knowledge. The he&Yy 1non in the 110untaiu this year makes it a very tilleq aubJect. APRIL MEETIMi

N>UHTAilfWUliG EQUIJIMl!:HT

ROTE: April meeting date will be changed to April Uth due to Easter Holiday. It • • ,., ._ s • ...... • • . • ...... MilM.'ES ·OP' m. ·13 EDCmIVB ::eaAIU>i~ : NIIU'l'll8 f.(Cont 'd) ,., . . . _: .: ~ .L~ tl~ fi;· -~ ....= • • ·- Meeting vu .. c&ll:ed. ~ ...order by -Prni4elit ~·( . othir Biiiueaa: 1) It vu learned that Dwight Baker at 6;_30 P.M. ID atta4uce . the BoeAlp nag i■ lliaaing aDCl ia belined were Lee Wnt, Ron Johneon, Charlie Brawn, · to be 'vith tcmutr prHideDt. Bill Fantoz.1,i. Ron Bins and Bob Btor-11 vbo arrf.Ted : : (Btepa will be taken to recover the lost late. · .. property. ) 2) All lloeAlp announcment ■ : · : ~-,.in the Boeing Ina 1111.1t t1r1t go through Treasurer' • Report: •395. 72 ill the bulk.-·· ·. · ,.the Becreational Unit tor appl'O'V'&l.. 11000.00 hu been allocated to the BOB.ALPS . 3) Con■ ititutlon 1111.endJlent vaa cll ■cu.aaed. tr011 The Boeing Ccmpa.uy-. Ron Bing Naberahip Report: 78 ambera at preaent. In order to at:hml&te gr•te:r .-bel'■hip, SCHEDULED .AC'l'IVI'tD:8 10R IIARCJI i t vu dec:lcled to h&Te a ■pecial progra . , in April (aee Program■). . . Mt. Hood I Oregon I Marcb 22-23

Hut Report: J.) The aite ae.lecti°' Preparation■ tor the armual cl!Jllb ot ahaul.4 be reaolTed b7 April. or-• Mt. Boocl are vell unc!ervQ. The tentati-ve · 2) Bonda vill be ■ol4 onq_anar the ■ ite 4&te is March 22-23, bovffer thi ■ will be 1a ■ elected &nd the plua tinal.i1ed. contiJ'.1194 at the nezt BoeAlp Meeting. Lee Weat will be leading thi ■ climb. Pr!?JFUIB Report: l) The topic of the Nellber ■ mu.at confirm their re■ erTat:1011■ at , regular meeting on March 6 Yill be Avalancbe the Kuua Lodge tar tbia veekend cliab not Control.. 2) The regular April aeetiD& .later tb&n March 10th with Ron Bing, 655-4810 will be held on April Uth due to tbe ar LA.4-5636. At this time, pleaae inclicate luter Holid&¥• The 'tiop:lc will be to• vli~her you plan to climb and it you Mountaineering Bquipaent. 3) A apeci&l ar• villing to take people in your car or program v1ll be held teaturillg J>ee Jfolaaar . need a ride. People vbo 4etault vill be on .March 19th or 26th. charged, a■ the lodge prepar• meal.a and . .· reserve ■ a place tar thm. Coat to Boeilp Ski School Report: 52 peop;Le b&ve partic- ·: ma.bera ia $1.50 per night, $1.00 bre&kta.at, ipated during the t:1.rat ■et ot le■ 90IUI. lfhe : $1 .• 50 dinner. Meaberll au■ t bring Bleeping aecond aet besi• ■hortly . ,. . bagt t var:m cl.othea I vind■bell, BoeAlp Member ■hip card, crUlpOll■, ice ue', rope f'or A letter vu receind trca Milto.D J. Koob, · fJVery' 2 to 4 people• &nd ■ki ■ or ■ DOVBhoea. Pre■ ident ot "SKI-BA.CS" in vhicb he object ■ . · EV'ffJ ettort rill be made to secure uae ot to the BoeAlp■ giving 'b&aic ■k1 lea ■on■• ·the anov cat to help eue the "eleT&tion-pp". BaveTer 1 111 the eTeDt. that 1 ■ 1a not aTall­ ~e· kecv.t1Ye lloarc1 reccr •nd ■ thata-Dezt able and the ■DOV ia deep, ■ki■ ar anov■hoH ye,uo onlJ era■■ country or ut.... touring be would be a4viaable at the lover elnationa. tught by the loeAlpa and that iutruction in ba■ ic ■ki:1.og be lett to the "BlCI-BACS". Leave Beattle 4:Lrectl.J' fr'ca work ■o u to arrive at the Na- Lode• betore 10 P .N. ActiTity Reprt: l) Jfarch 22nd - 23rd the See Mp on page 3 ~or location of the loc1ge. :SOeAlpa will be Soin& to Mount Hood, Oregon. Lee West Sball lead the cliab. R. W. Smith Ski Tour, March 16 :I. ■ arraqi!II accommc,Aatio1111 at the Na1-. Lodge. 2) Another cl.iab 1 fR 11nn•med. vUl Ski troa Paraciiae cknm to the li•q~ Bridge be led by' lob Storaa■ li. 3) Bon Johnaon on the Bi■qual.q aorraine. Several nma will vill lead a ■Jd tour up Toa,yboi Pok. be made. A party ot 6 ia required. C&ll. 4) Alan Rhone and. Jerr, Hill:l.1 are to lead. Bob Storaaali betore March 14th at 655-2415 or outing■, but b&'Ye not contirlled the■• to PAS-9449 to arrange detail ■• th1 ■ date. 5) Charlie .lli'ow will arrange a trip to lr.11, ■tler lloulltaiD in Mil¥• PAGE 2 SChEL>UliD AC'l'l VITllS FOR MARCH ( Cont I d) Mt.. Wov (Cont'd)

Mt. Wow - J.lt. Rainier Park-, - · . . Jn Febl"UIU')'. i6th Roland Ammd■ en, Bob Storauli and Ron Jolmacm atarted out troa the 11Glaas Houae" near the liaqualq entrance to Rainier Park vith their Much vu learne4 111 the mutery ot anov ■ ipta ■et o~ flt. Wow. Tbe veat ridge architect.ure. ·· · = above the higtnrav vu pined &Dd tollowe4 ...·, .

...... : } .. .:-:, ..

P.Uf&:. AT S.TA'TE H'i~. Ldl'"t '-I.UC. Aeao&& HVtJ. AAJD i/P l•nu.. l'O& A•Jt&A.W. ¥t. •&..0c:..:.. -n.,..., 1..&l'r ro Lo~.

PAGE 3 BMCOR ROCX February 15, 1969

~ -!'1o~, cc~:~~ wi,~.. .1'9Ck 9~~ 1n the Colmbia River Gorse~~~­ -~Y ~----~ ~. .!;~ ~~~r■, In general, the Gorge rock 11 ·a · ~igblJ •~:tte-r,d ba■,~t,~not .. ni>.'J.;~,4 tor 1~ ■ .mb~ty! . -~ ::ee.con Bock . _prove_d to 'be ., an;~~ic?n_. . ~ -'-'~1nct vo~ic ~~, ,1ti~~ -quite_. wll1ot)1c!'. In fact,, the. 1_9u~-~ ....~~~r ~,):oq,o ■ed ot .. ~~.:r.~ ..~;L~! -~.-ireminJ~~n"t;.;:,-, · of~!~ ~./-I!~-~! -~:i. .'11~;_,:!)e:y-p.r..- ~ 10 ■-t;pile .. ...,~~ ;.,. -'.:: ·•. .. ~.•- :_)··, : _.;_ii,Z :.· ·

• ...... : ...... • :·, ..• •1 ~•: :,,...... , . ... ;. ..• • • :: ♦ · ~ -~ • ~ ,: ,...... In __~ flr~~--~'\;ac~ y~ib ~poll-ltoek,Ian Wade and I vere ■oanrmt q~_. fD~ ·~t■ .....~tu~ -~--.. The rock 1■ over 8oo taet bigb .an~ ofter■. . . •~out 600., ~~ _?.f ro~~:. c~~ing• . ,After going through tbe checkout · to1:Mlltiti!,. ~,-~~\~~::t~_. rtver face, the only -~~~·: ?.,~~~~ch - · · climbing ~ -~-~t~•~-•-~ina.~ .._pick out the line ot the ·1outhea1t ridge route. Tliia turned ~~~ ' ~P.---~ a tin~ 11'1;)ck. c;~b .ot. .,abou,:t n~.-J.ona ·. pitcba ■ with ■me ac:rublini abed in. It■ .ra1;~nglot II~6 ,(5.~J.. ,ppe&J'.9d ~: ac~~te, _with ~ -~~o~ ~~~~~• . canc:ent~~4 ~ -~~- ~~e~ ~~~t~t -,· .. The final pitche ■ are p~~.,•;!,JJ_'-,;7 easier, No~-,,~t ;~~--;~~~i:-:~• :·:~ p~_atJ!. . •... •. • . . '\ :- ,; :, ,! • ,.... . • •. i _,. •.. .: :. ,:.-..•, :., , .:...... : •., :. ~~~ 1'0~~~~-•~ :¼1,~,~-J,r_::~~ Rock in . •~.C~:! _r•l!I. ~~ ;~ ..O~p": ,. : . -· .)::,-.' · · , ' -.Gull ~ft ... ·. . i· ~i ;,; ,,,· II-8-A2 it .::.,.. . · ...... , .. .:.:,.,· ; ·': OUll tight ··· II-7-A2 ··· : ·~· '' ,. ·. .S.E. Ridge Var, II-8 .; .. .-· · ·· ' Dod'• .Ju. .. : . ·. IV-9-A2 . .• . I . •': . ., J'i,ing ~ IV-7-A3 · .. \ . The columna:io ·zone ot·• the rooJR probably ottera ■everal new aid line■,· .but continuou 41t:fic:ult. nall1Jls abou1d. be expected. A "trail" caned into the rock and protected by 1111ta1 ra111nga 1a u■ed an the cle ■ cent. Por tho■e not incllned taward rocJr. climb~, the trail otter■ a ■ate line to the tap. The vin of tbe Columbia Gorge .i.1 well worth the a ■cent ~ ·· ·

Permi11icm to rock climb on Beacan Rock muat be obtained in advance by · writing to tbe Wa■hbigton State ParJr. Coali■■ion ■- Application■ mu■t be aubmitted through a recophed climbing club aucb a■ the BOBAU»S. The trail, bonver,i■ open to the public mat ot tbe year.

Route Deacription: Sauthea ■t Ridp Park at the boat lu.~-_-nd walk ·the railroad tram to the 1outhea1t ;corifer .-•ot=ti <·rocJr.~ 1 to·cate 'tlie: dead ■nag on a broad lec!ge above, then acl'Ulble up tbe rock nose d1recti, beneath until it aergea with the face. Traverse left into a ahal.low groove and climb 1t to the mag ledge, naneuver:lq amund a tn awlmarc1 bulge ■ at the start. Walk 75 feet east along a lecJge until below a large root. Cltab up and lett 20 het and mu a tricky traveraing Jl!IIDe'Q.ftr r14Eht onto Dll.ll ledge ■ beneath the root. It is adviiable to re-e-.tabliah the belay here to reduce rope drag. Climb the 1lab face to the right ot the overhang, gohlg onr an awlarard buJ.&e near tbe tap. Band tranrae the upper l.ip ot the ■ lab around the corner and clial> well broken rock to the tree ledge. Climb up and left tor 160 teet past several ample ledp ■ to a graaay Jr:noll. Scramble up graaay ledpe, climb a rock chimney, then traver■e · mre led&ea to a tree about 100 feet to the eaat. Clial> to a elab above tbe tree and tnwr■e it r14Eht to a abort gulley leading around the comer to the soutbea■t ridp, Cl1Jllb 150 feet ot easy but exposed rock on tbe ridp to complete. the route.

BAY SNUrBlC PAGE 4 HEW ECliC EDI'l'OR WAl'l':ID HYPOTHERMIA: Killer ot the Unprepared Theodore G. Lathrop, M.D. Our J::cho editor and Secretary. Pat K1D&, The Muamu, $.75 baa left the c~. Vice Preeidu.t Ron John■on baa been doing a rill-in job (Available tr0111 MSR, 631 3. 96th St. •• OD the Echo J.a■ t math and thi■ i■aue, but Seattle. Wash. 98108) eome ot hio other Boe.Alp■ VQl'k i■ being neglected. We need ■ameone to TOlunteer Jtn>othermia is a nev name given to an tor thia Job iJaediatel;,. Contact Ron. old nelli■ is ot 11101mta.ineer1 - exposure. 655-3409, it 7ou are inclined tovarcla Maz,;y recent B.W. tragediei are attributabLe writing or editing either aa cbiet editor to hypothermia lnclwUne the recent and or ju■t to aa■ 111t. needle■■ deat~ of a 15 ;rear old boy on Cougar Mountain, Waahingt.on. within actual HUT C0MNI'l"l'D REDS HELP sight during dqlight ot housing, a pasture a.net a road. Work 1 ■ progreeaing on plaiiniDi and desigq ot .\ .. . . the hut but additional help 1■ nettded. We The booklet, in 11 pages, outlines the muat prepare a aite ■electl011 ■lalllry tor llinimwa information that all hikers and club approval thi ■ ■pring to be ready tor climberalbould knov tor their ovn and tor start ot conetruction this ■\11111191". The their party's aatety. It 1a well aaov will atq late tbia 7ear leaviag ill'-trated and containa a wind-chill chart. tever weekends tor work. thia sumer. We have learned recentl;, that the ■ ite near The booklet attributes laat year's Snow Lake, one ot the po■aible ■ itea vhich Mt. MclCinley trage~ (Wilcox Party) death■ vaa available last year, i ■ no longer to hypothermia. Though hypothermia vu available due to a chanse in Snoquala1e prob&b]¥ the immediate cauae ot den.th, the ·~ational. Forest managaent policy. It reviewer suggests that this la stretching ,iou would like to combine a clia'bing or the point conaiderably. ■kling outiD£ vi.th a site B\ll'ft7, contact Chairman, Ron Ma)-o, 655-1856 and get details The boot hu •uaseeted "another member or on vbere and what to look tor and what to the party who haa stripped down. to hia include in your report. underclot.hing" get in a ■leeping bag vith the victim ot hypothermia. Beat tr&DBter, Dvight Baker bare ■kin-to-bare all:in,ia raater and an accepted rescue technique, b1uahing"not withstanding. · The paaphlet ia veil worth the reading R~~ aza,add!~ion to Mountaineering. Medicine.

Phil Stern Copies ot the above mentioned book will be available at the next regular meeting.

PAGE 5 ICJINI EIIIIOYEE8 Al.NE IOCIITY, IC.

Preaiclent, Dr.lg1rt Buer l.TT-lJJao Tnuurer, Cbarle■ R. lrovD 713-4223 Vice Pre■ i4mt I Boa JoJmaon 655-3110~ Secretary, Roza Bins 655-4810

APRIL UfflL'Y MEETifG

PRIDAY, Apl'U 11., 1969, T:30 J>•••

J.S·.R.L. Nath See1nv Boca APRIL PRmWI

Jl)1Jl'!ADDRDQ IIQ1JIPlllll'l'

OUT Boa■ Yill •»-k OD C111'l'e1rt aliab1Dg and caping equipaent. G&l7, who ia an mploJee ot the Recreat10D&l lq_uiiment Inc. 1 hu tir■ t hand. ta.owl.edge ot the lat•t gear :traa hi' on penou]. ue Ul4 traa the ~ otbel' ,.._.. with wtam he talu. Be will ■hair acaa of the articlea &Tail.abJ.e.

Jlellbera aight clo 1f8l.l to hear the pro'• aa4 con• ■ ot the 41tterent tn,e■ at' eqld.J,altllt DOV OD 'the arket before Ml:1Dg 11D iDYUtllent to,, the 81W. Ollry' will be bappy to animtr 7UID." quelt10DII. SPECIAL MEETifG DDDSDll, April 16, 1969, 8:00 P•••

Plant II lngine.riy Tlle&ter

DH.llol.enur

Dee IJol.enur, well knolna American maantaizieer, umber ot the Aaer:lcan K-2 e.zpe4it:lon and ~ other■ will. pNHDt an illutratecl lec'ture on llt. lla1D1.er.

Dee 1 ■ COIUlidered. the w:nmtaineerillg.h! ■torian ot llt. Rd.Dier alillbiag &114 bu pioneend ■ llftl'&l. mnr rmn• illclwlillg tbe •t ■ qully Ice:tall (19168), VU.on · Glacier llea4v&l.l (195T) aD4 ne Jlovich Pace Direct (1966), Bi■ lecture v1ll include a geological an4. lli■tor1cal bac:tgrcnmd of Mt. Rainier u veil u a ■ 114e ■bov ot the~ uu1 not-■ o-popular alimbillg route■•

Thi ■ program vill be ot ■pec:lal. ilatere■t to all vho h&Te clillbed or h&Te amb:ltiou to clillb RaiDler, u4 all -,~ are ccounge4 to bring their fuil¥ and pro■- pecthe lloeAl.tt a..,,_.. :a.p].07W ahoulcl n.elllber to briM their Boeing baaae u tu., ¥ill be required. to e■ cort their pe ■ t■ tbroagh the Guard. Oate. Let•• ■ ee a a good turnout. IIIllU'1'B8 OP MAR. 6th RmtJLAR IU!is'rIIG 8111th Rocb (Coat'd)

The ...ting vu called to ~ by­ loDg OD ■olid, vel4e4 Talcuic tutt. Preaiclellt Dwight BIiker. 1. Rut 110nth' ■ meeting v1ll be DD '1'be 8111:lth Rock■ are located ill central Mountaineeriy P.guipent. Oregon on U .s. 9T bet.vND lfa4ru &lld 2. Ron Bing vu appointed the nev Bend, a aere fin Id.mite drift t'l'GII the ■ ecret&:l7 ot the club. 'l',rribcmne 'l'aft!'ll. P1&D cm V&r11 •IUUl7 3. JerTy B1111 ■ vu elected Echo Bditor c1a7a IIIUl cold clear night. Cl:lllber' ■ ■tarting May. camp 1 ■ near the road. Bring water. 4. Hut report va■ given by Ron Mayo. The -1D problem i ■ site ■ election. Route 4eacriptiou are g1TeD in th• Climber's 5 • Meaber ■htp Report - 73 mem.bera. Guide to Orqon. 1or ad41 ticmal lnrormation • 6. A ll)ecial •eting will be held OD call - on 655-g351 or BA 6-2613. We plan April 161 1969 featuring Dee Molenaar. to drift dawn~ ffeD:lng IIDd. return The progl'D ia "The Challenge ot ~ Afternoon. llainier" 1nc1uding hiator:,, geololJ', - 8atiek DOl'll&l. and other routes. Befte■hmenta vUl. be served f'ol.lovi-.g Peak 67101 laillier Park1 April 13 the aeeting. Mike Reese 1■ takiq care ot publicity-. Located cm the :z. llalma1UT ot Rainier 1. Treuurer' ■ Beport: $295.00 in the Park and three .Uea s.1. ot C.,U.e Pua. B&Dk. A 2-1/2 llile trip• elnat1oa p1D 2700 ft. , 8. Activit1 Report ,,.. given by Ron Bing. &pproxim&tely 4 hour ■ to 1uait. Dile to ■mnr conditions and Lee We ■t being ou.t-ot-town, the Mt. Hood Clillb Snonhoe up Deny Creek Valley to pua rill be OD April 19-20. between Pk. 6710 and Beyaour Pk.. ~-D &long ridge cre■t to 'b&■ e of' peat.. Weather Ski tour dovn liaquall.y morraine :l ■ pel'llitting, the climb to 11mllt inTOl:na cancelled a:lnce Bob Storaull hurt 1hort p:ltche■ ot clu1 3..JJ rock cllmbing hi ■ leg. requiring a rope. Bnonhoera not wishing 011aPic beach hike rill be held on to do the rock cllabiag are nlccae to .March 29-30. ~ the p;J:OUp to the bue ~ the peak • BriDg ice aze. lfeet at Cepae Pu ■ parking 'l'ho■ e peraODB interested 1D getting out in the aDUJltaiu, pleue contact area at T:00 •••· • Contact RoJ end Awnncl■ on, Til3-~, or at April aeeting. Ron Bing. ~e buainee ■ meetillg vaa tolloved bT a 141:tor 'a lote: RolancJ. lect the ■ucce■ afUl talk, gi-YeD by Mr. LJ.oy4 McG&heney, cl.1ab ot Pk. 6Tl0 on Peb. 23, 1968, after u.s.JP.S. SncnrRenger at ei■,-atal, on two earlier attmpt■ that year. 'l'he a-Yalanchea, u veil aa a veey apectacular/ 1ucce■■tu1 PU"t7 otticial.l.y chri ■tened the terrifying tilm called "Avalanche Control." peak "Pis Roland". 'l'o the beat ot our Rem Bing knowledge it va■ the firat winter ucent. Secretary Nt. Hood 1 Oregon, April 19 - 20

SCHEDULID At'tlf1Tll58 POR APRIL The ammal climb ot Mt. Hood v1ll take plaae cm Apr.11 19 - 20. Re■ervaticma haft been ll&4e to atq at the 11a.... Loclge. See March Echo tor detalla. Sign-up 4elllll.ine - Intereatecl in a change ot ■ceneryt Join April 11 meeting. ua at the Saith Rocks during the lruter holiday. 'lhil i■ Oregan' ■ beat rock Mt. s1, Con41t1oner, April 2T clillbiq area. Thre are aev-eral. ■guare mile ■ ot rind eroclecl pinnacle■ alU1 towen Contact Ron Bins, 655-4810 or LA 4-5636 of' &11 lnel■ or c1itticulty trm clu ■ 2 tor detail&. on up. Climb■ range trm 30 to 600 teet Page 2 ... · ~•

Page 3 ,lft • Bt • Beleu I Jlarch 9 (Cmlt t 4) CLDIBIIG cotJR8BS POR 19§9

Pora,tb route. While CNHym1ng &boYe tbe (SUpplamatal ~onation to that appeariDg '?OP JINA leYlll w were aloncl by atZ'ODg in Pe'bruary Bebo) vinu, lnlt reached tbe allllllit at 12:30. Lunch Oil top wu libtJtt 4u to 7° t perature Tbe tol.J.oriJlg coar■n are being ottered bJ' and. 30 aph vin4. Ve wre c1on by 3: 30 p.a. tbe UniTenity ot Vuhingtoll during ud arriftd. back ill Seattle by T:30 P••• Spring Quarter (April - June).

Dw1&)rtlaker Beginning Clillbing IJrtemetiate CllJllb-illg 1ft;. st. llalena, March 15 A4TaDce4 Climbing H1k1ng Ron Bing, ~ PeteraOll uul Boy lube Yaturecl High Angle Rock Cllab1ng up tbe wind. bl.on ■lopea of Nt. St. Helm Tia the Dop lead. route. The ■un cae out ll'D1' ..~~t1~ t~l~ ,a.3-21~.pr ill ■pite ot the natber reporta, bu.t untartun­ contact·Ron Jo!maon, 5-31109 f'or mre •~ ■o 414 the viD4. Prop-a■ up the Dop ~Ol"lllltion. Clu■• atart the tint ...t Bead vu re4uce4 to a ■nail pace with lqllllD ill April, ■o hUl"l',Y. 'being 'bufi'etecl U'Olm4 JmCh to hi■ ccm■ternatiOll. Ver, strong riD4a greeted ua at t1ie top ot the CLDIBIJIQ W'HBCi-»I Dop IIN4 tral which a buty retreat wu ..ae. Upon retm'll to lower elnatioa the trio ate Bat■ oft to Richard Parpter ~ hi■ lunch in bright· ■un light. It i■ ngpated article, "Rule■, Reucm and Re■pon■ ib111ty11 that a better raute at thi■ t:ble VCN14 be vhich appeared 1n the Jan. - Peb. i■■ue ot ■traipt up the JPor ■yUl Glacier with & · SUllli.t Nap.sille. Dick'• article, a rebuttal tranr■e to the right below the tal■e · 111111111.t. to Bo.,al Robin' ■ article, "ftae f'or a Change" n■ a velcme rnpoue to bring the Rem Bing arguaent Oftl' ccaplete cllll'b1ng f'reeclml back 1Dto it■ proper per■pectiw. It would be enlightening tor all -ber■ to read onr Dick' ■ article.

Page 5 tmnt r.ASCADE NATIC>W. PARK

In re&dillg through the CoD&N■■ioaal Record tor the lorth Cuc:&4e lational Park Bearinga which were hel.4 here in Seattle OD April 19.ancl 20, -1968, it ia very cliaappointing to this ecU.tar to ■ee that onq 7 ot our then 200 plu■ Boeilp Mllber■ vere concerned enough to teatit:, or b&Te their Tin■ presented to the Bouae Cmaittee. Thia ia aurpriaiag indeed when ■o IIAZl1' ot our -ber■ ■ eem to enJOJ the pleuurea that the area otter• them. The next tiae 7CJll.'·re in the Borth Cuca4ea, I hope you vill pause avhUe and uk youraelt it you have clone your part to preaerYe th••• areas tor youraelt and nuu,;y other■ in the tuture.

Certainly there are thiap you can clo to preaen-e areu like the Borth Cucade■• Make an ettort to keep yourself 1Dtoniecl 011 current i■■ue■ and mate your vien knovD. nen it it 1■ cml.7 by writing a letter. It v1ll help greatq.

All you mov the creatiOD ot the Borth Cuc&cle lational Park haa beccae a reality, but ■till to be decid.ed i■ the vilderne■ a make-up ot the park. The bill e■ tabliab­ ing the park ■ tate■ that vithin tvo years trca the date ot enactment the Secretary ot the Interior ■hall rmw the area vithill the Borth Cucdn, 1nclu4ing the Picket Ruge ar• and the Bl.don4o Peau area, and ahall report to the Preaicleat, in accoriaD.ce vith the W1lc1erae•• Act, hi■ recclllleDdatiOD■ u to the auitability or 110aauitabilit7 ot -av area vitliin the park tor preaerntion as vUd.erne■ a, aa4 -av 4eaign&tion ot &111' auch area u a vil.4erne■ a area ■ball be acC011pli■hed ill accordance vith ■aid ■ubaecticma ot the Wllclernea■ Act.

Our fond.eat hope 1■ that all the area within the park rill be 4ea1pate4 vilderne■■, . but hope vill not be enoqh to do the Jobi your help 111 111pea1r1vc out vill be required. Ron Jolmaon

The tol.l.ovivc la a brief ■Ullm&l'7 ot the trail re,-- s,dation■ tor the lorth Section ot the park by the lorth Cuc&cle■ CODaerntiOD Council.

"1be llorth Section ot lorth Cucad.e :latlonal Park contalll■ ■Cllle ot the aoat T&l:uable trail-tree vilclerneu 1D the la8 conttcuou■ ■tatu. There ■houl.4 be a place 111 the laticmal Park u4 W114erDe■■ 117■1.fa where the challenge ot trail-tree tr&nl i■ an11able. .Acee■■ to the Y114ern.. ■ core areu ■houl4 require a little eztra ■kill an4 ettort. People appreciate that which they vork hard to obtain. By keeping acce■■ dittloult, the hUlllllll "c&ZTJ'ing capacity" ot·the trqil lligh COUDUJ' 1 ■ not u:ceeded, while each trip made vill be love NMllbered. llot 'bu1.lcliDg euy-acce■■ tra1la to the vilclU'De■■ core■ alao benetit■ tbe peraon vbo may not ban the strength aD4 v114erne■ a traftl. ■kill aD4 ability to penetrate the v114en.e■a core. Be v1.l.l appreciate it from a distance (111 the ■- ft¥ that car driver■ appreciate the roe.4-tree ·Olympic WU4erne■■ trca Hurricane R1c1ge) .. Aleo it can be a challuge tor b1JI 111 f'llture year■•

Therefore, in the Borth Cucde BatiOD&l. Park llorth Section trail■ around the trail-tree vi14erDe■■ maat be caretulq plen.i. Trail■ to Tievpoint■ of the Wil.clerDea■ core IIUt be pron.d.ed. 1oZ' euapl•, at Bee.Ter Pu■, build. a trail to the riclge top EB ot the pa■■• mt natvlU'4 1D the direction ot Cballenger ric1ge. And illproYe trail■ to TinpoiDta near lourclough Mount&ill, !l'rappera Peak and i'rimaph

Page 6 Riqe, And.enon Butte (veat ot lorth Cuc&4e latioaal Park) 1 Ruth &l'll1 Buy Ridge, and Copper llountain Lookout. Build new tn:U.a near the lorth Croaa State Bigbn.y to Dana Peak, Oakn Peak and. Diobaud Bll'ttea. Additional perillRer dnelopaent vill be needed to take care ot a flood ot people; auch ot thia ahould be O\ltaicle the Park in the Nt. Baker lational Poreat. 11

Space cloea not perlli.t a complete brelllr.don ot the trail ayat- proposed. It you voulcl lilte mre intonation, pl.eaae contact Ron Johuon1 5-31'09.

Page 7 · Praaident1 Dwight Baker Kl 2•3202 Treasurer: Charles R. Brown 113-422) Vice Pre11.1 Ron Johna,n 6S5-9S72 lditor: Jerr, Hillie 6$$-2740

lllT IDl'IBLT IW:fIIO

TIIIJBSD1T,-,. 1, 1969 7:30 PJI.

B.S.R.L. Math Sellinar Boall

KU fROOIWI

lncbaD1:llen Lake•

Jho. Bill Stark will present a slide abov on tbe lncbantllent Lakes area. Thia show should be or spacial interest to anyone planning to hike or· climb in thia area. It enough interest ia generated• a Boeal:?• trip vill be organized. MINUTm OF APRIL ll MEETING ,..tte~ t.he progr.am, t.he meet.lng "'8 . ;, 4-'oij;rned to the cafeteria for . Ron Jotin110n, Vice-president, pres~~ed ..oott••· -~ ·: ···- in the abaence of the president. There was a emaller-than-nonaal attendance, Ron-John110n relayed a ■888&R• pouaibly because it. was a Frid8¥ niiht fro■ the cafeteria manqeaent rat.her than the usual 'Thursday night expressing t.beir desire to •e the IIHting. area policed up af'ter Boealpa ...tings. The~ was no new busj neas L>ef'ore the Club and moat oft.he •eating~ before (Minutes taken by I.pan Fetereon). the program, waa devuted to making . several announcemonta. •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• M&"f~KSHIP 1<.i!:POlt't' s There are currently CLIMBS 87 paid -tiers per Bob Storaasli, membership chail'll1ari. Q1Jnlp1; Deesb ff1ke--Marah 29-JO, Marine Division. : DECALS: H. W. Smith at.ill has an adequate auppq and would be haPPT One car was uaed and all pick-ups to lul'lf!llh them on delland. wre on ti.lie aa well aa the ...ting with the 1'err.,. Arri:nd at Lake T.WSUF.&R 1S tU;PORTc The treaaurer vaa OHtte at 11:)0 and bJ the number not preaent, but Ron Jobnaon eatiutea of cars in the parking lot, there there ta around $289 in the kit"t7, not were -.ore than 200 people ahead of counting the Co111p&ny 1a donation vhioh u■ on· the trail■• The• are wll• has COIN through. uaed trails, moatly ot planking (due to tbe mud). The one to &:HO .EDI'l'O.lh The new labo editor ~dpoint ia alight},y aborter ie Jerry Hillie, Phone S-2740, and is in better abape. The otber M.S. 22-20. trail to Cape .llava ia l&i1d out aa a nature trail vith nunbere posted and SPECIAL M~~~:rIHO: The special ••ting a booklet available mcplaining the■• which was held in April in the &lgineerinr. Theater at Plant II waa The party a1•.i·ived at the beach at announced. :.io111tt di•ppointment vaa 21)0. Packs wen, left and beach­ expressed ov\•r t.he covorage .turniahed cOllb1ng cont.inued to the 110Uth. No by the •Boeing Neva•. floats were found here--or an,,,ben on the trip. A few pictures wre TENT Clf S'fOUUN : ff• W. Sllli th allked to taken. · be relieved or hi.fl dut.iea in kuetping t.he three Hoealps tents. lae Weat Packs ware at(ain put on and we and Ian Lynn volunteered with the Job hiked_nort.h for about a mile where going to Lee West. At>preciation was cup waa lnade. expreaeed for H. W. • a work 1n handling this jab f'or a year and a haU'• Ona obaervat.ion lade h~re vas thMt atter it. started to rain, wat.er­ PilOGRAM 1 'rhe prov.ram was introduced by prootad canvae •a1n•t neceeaariq RUie Rees. The featured speaker wa.a 11011 and that 801118 plastics are Oar, Nose who discussed and displayed 801119Vhat water pemeable ■ (The basic 111ount.aineering equipment. Mr. Club tent worked tine i) Hoae did an excellf'nt job and his lecture was both h1a10roua and in.forinatiwt. · 'ttle naxt 110rning was still driszl.J, but sleep, drow up to Tillbl,rllne cleared up b., 9:00. The tide waa in and Satlll"'dq mming. ::iewtn peoplts required ecapering over a rev rocke. A reached ti,150-toot altitude in,a · rest et.op at Indian J(ocke gave 1110re bl1aurd that ■oming. ·.,:he art.emoon pictun-tak:lnR opportunitiae. vaa spent 11atching alidee and drink;ii:lg liquid re.treahllente at a local eatablieb­ Cape AlaY& waa roached in ti11e for lunch, mnt. at Oowrment Camp (just. down the alonv, 1i1ith na1n &glJ.1.n• Two of t.he part.7 road !roll the Koaua .Lodp). hl,ked up the bea~h Car anot.her 11ilu. Sunda_y waa a beautiful, aunny day and . Attar lunch in a 1:1helter, a t.ry-out eight people reached t.htt s Ullllli t, via t.he with a ellng-ahot tro11 another hiker sou t.h side (Hog I s Hack route). Un­ prowd that t.he giants around he re an1 fortunately, tt.u'9 were no views fl'OII the in no danpr. The rain becaae vorae. By IIWlllli t clue to a cloud cap. 1t. vaa tbe t.1• the hOM eteact waa reached, the a wry enjoyable cU.11b wi t.h tieveral trail wae wry 11Udd7. r.Jc:a Osette vaa people getting a chance to lead. .,. reached b7 Ji: 30. In keeping with the tradition at&rted lleabere of tbe party were Cqde Joerg, by- Charlia Brown last. year. t.he sunait luder1 .Bon and Judy BinR. and lrank ling. party bunaed a tree ride down on the 8111th Backe~Oregpn ano-cat. tfiree. a.. &a ffck cliabi.Dg wre enj0J'9d Bf.et.er wekend hr Bar Sllutek, Ian Lynn, Bon Making the euait were Ron Bing, P'rit.s Bing and Did.pt Rl-ker. Details nut isaae. Cel'M)", Chuck Crenchalr, Oa'VII Hambly, P.l.s Ki)~ - - Hai( lube, Bill .t.avana, Paul Nett, and Ken Varcoe. , .Another· aaocea&ail clillb o.t Feak 6710 vu aocoapliahed on ~ndq, April 13th, •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• •• ■ix Boealpe IIDOV-Bhoed t.o the 11111111.t rock. Two pitona were ueed tor eat"ety due MAY ACTIVITmJ to tbe ice and anov covar:lng or the rocks. Daeoent we made on rapel. '!'he weather was Captll~ cool and good tor climbing. 'l'be trip was aomevhat aarred by equipllent .tailure of A one-day trip to Camp Muir has been two Colorado "enow tread• plastic anovahoea. propoud tor late May-. Neither t.he (Id. lote1 One wonder■ it this vaa the date nor t.he leader has been t'inaU.sed. NM pair used succeaa1'11lly to kick steps Anyone villhing to lll&ke this t.rip OD this-trip last yaar.) . should oontAct Ron Hing or Jerry Hillis.

Mt.. Jetreraon Table Nou.ntain H. W. 8-ith and Jerry Hillie are proposing a three-day trip to Mt. Two Boea].pa 11D011-11hoed up Table Mountain Jetteraon over the .Memorial Day in the .tbµit 81.ker area on ~nday, April wekend. Thia ia a iaajor c lillb and 6_. and enjoyed excellent weat.her and Tievs anyone desiring to go must be well• ot Mt. Shukaan. Mt. Dakar ralllllined in qualified. the clouda. 'l'hie area was obaened to ha•• sawral ,.ood snow-shoe trip■• Mid.week Conditioning Hikea

low t.hat. d~light savings tiM 1■ back, ;you can atay- 1n good ahape through Mt.. 11ooc1, Orep ewning bikae. .Ewry ·.rueedq at. S :JO p.11. at the parking_... under Highvq We arriwet at the Mosua lodp lPriday 10 nap at Rainier A~nue on the ifest. night,. April 19, and, after a good night' a aide. Join the east-aide oeople at

PAGE 3 Foothills uestaurant, one block west. or :!or vfova oJ" lilacior Peak and the lusaquah t.ra1'J.'ic tiignal on the north North Cascades, then ret.w~ to cars side of. Highway 10. r.&ve there at Sunday attemoon. It we don't get 6 p.m. tor either •r1gar Mountain or Mt. a1x lllin:lm11111, we will join the Leaven­ Si or a,x,tbar objective, depending on vort.h group tor ak1 touring or rock the comitiona and aood of the group. It clillbing • ( See LeaftDVOl"tb trip, there is enough interest, a Ttmradq not.ice.) Call Did.girt,, Bater, • .e-)203 or group will be started. Coordinate vith 31&'2-1.li. ·(lwrett) · for detdla. don Bing, IA h-s636 or 6$5-4810. Deadline tor 11.gn-up ia Mq 13. Mount 8@l

Thi.a aid clilllb, Mq 10-11, is a *1 Join otbar_Olub •llbera 1181' 17-18 110untainear•a paradiea. We 111 clillb t,ba am/or May JO-June l 1D tba Leavenwor~ south aide via Scbrivera Meaciov and area tor rock. cl.illbing, hiking, aid Eaaton Glacier, a 11agniticent run back. touring, or -juat. loafing. Caap at 8 1 Thia is scheduled Mountaineer trip and H:l.la Caap1round on Iciole Creek. · Boealpe are wlco111e. Contact leader Chuck Oternov, it cupground ie full, can Id Crenchav, 773-llhO, tor details. a ■118 farther t.o Bridge Creek Camp­ ground. However, 1n Mq, there :ah014(1 Trinitz Snow Tour and Ski Cliab lNt no probl.111 with crowded CUP.~•

Thia trip, Mq 17-18, by snowaobile and "ock cliabera vill work on Snov° .Crnk eealsk:t.iis, 111 T8NTATIVI until there are Wall and the MIW challenging apires a m1Dir'i111 or six eo111itted. Coat will . 1n the area. Hikers can take reurth be $10 each tor a tvo-dq anoWIIObile rental ot July .Creek Trail to Icicle &.dp including estimated gaa. Thia 1a halt nr siailar IIOQth elope areas alreadJ' the normal winter aeuon rental rate tne ot snow. Skiers will take lllliJ" becauee or a special late •aeon deal vith ot Nwral trails up SbOII Creek, 8 Mile the rental outfit. They- will deliYer Creek, Mountaineer Creek to adjacent and pick up -.chines on Ohivava River 'high ocmntry mob aa Cannon Mcnmtd.D or Road wherever car travel is stopped bT Cuhmere Mountain areas. See Beclrq1a anow. Ou.ide to Leavenworth Climbing A:rea and topographic ups, Chinukla Mcnmtaina, We will leava Heat.tle L'rtday afternoon, :t.awn"NDrth, Liberty-, and Mt. Stu.art. Ma., 9, and calllp there .rea.dy- t.o at.art early Saturdq 11101-ninp; on good, hard It you prefer tihe convenience of being anov. We will travel in t.eaaa of t.hrea Nned 70ur lll8&18 and retreahment.a per aachina up the tong-flat Chiwawa instead or fixing your own, the River 11.0ad 15 to io miles. At least two .reat.aurant.a, t.averna and Tyrolean at.,le par ta11111 nnu1t be tlkiers who will be towed abopa ol Leavenworth are only a 15- on ropes aki-jorin~ st.yle. It'• great lllinuta drive avq. aportl Ask sno111110bile jockey Olann ltiehl. 'fhia area ia being Btlrioualy considered u a sit.e .tor our planned. clillbing hut.. Saturday aJ.'turnoon we will camp at the old Tho• not tamillar with the area abould ghost iaining town or Trinity. Karly ~dq, go to learn IIC)NI about it■ pros and oona 118 will uae snowmobiles aa tar u possible to help decide on a Bite vhea ve coa- than climb with skis (depending on energ plete our aune,, of'-"available eite ■ • It and conditions) a nearby peak 111ch •• ym organise 1'0'11' own 1:roup and plan to So, &lck or,posaibly' in Buck Creak Pu■ area or U 7011 Deed a rope partner, call~ Bing Ll 4-s636 or 6S5-4810 by 'l'burlldq PAOl la ewniDg preceding the wNkeml. BOEING EMPLOYEES ALPINE SOCIETY, INC.

~ ::} ~------'nlt-~8-~t=ft-=-=A,_==~=,.=~~-.~-,.a--tBOEA~LP~s~------~------President: .1.1 ...&.&1.. .a-.-~ ..,,~""'V..}'W Membership: Bob storaaali 6SS-2la15 Vice Pres.: Ran Johnson 6SS-9S72 Activitiea: Paal. Jett T73-4879 Secretary: Rem Bing 6SS-8S62 Programs: Lee Weat 342-0224 Treaaurer: Charles Brown 77.3-2.38.S Canaervaticm: Erhard W1ehart 6SS-6772 • Echo Edi.tar: Jer-q Billls 6SS-2740 . Hilts Rem~ 6$-l.8S6

. ' JUD Hlffln,y Rlm'llG

THURSn\t:~:·~~! .. ~?j9 ,.-7.:3~ P.H. . ,_ ,_ IO~ . '! ~ • B.s.R·.. t~ ·Math Sembar bcill ,. '

i·•• ".r.

JOHE PR00!Wf

Mt-. · M1ka Rees v:lll present a surpr-1.H group of slides taken in mill tiple climbing areu ~ · !t". Reea titles the show 11At the Dl'op of a Rock". .

Dl addition to this program, the Rut committee . I will present a detailed report an latest prospects. Members a;r"a urged to attend as enough in:f'armatian is aailable tar a "go ahaacl" vote. (See But Conmlttee Report, page 1.J. .

. . . ; ...... :. : KIHUTES OF MAY 1 · GF.NERAL MEETING -Bebo · P.rogram ·>:··· .·. -:~ilp-atulationa to Je1T7 Billi.a . on_~~• .tine job~ · ·Some beautitui slides ot the Encbant­ "·· ...... _"811t Lakes area were l!I~. This

looks like a good area tor a summer : •:•. • • I ' • ::=::•~-':: •1 • • : • • · cl:nb CS-7 dq) outiDg. · . ·· --:·~ ·West brought to our attention · '· ' the Cl$ rules tor borrowing tents. Baeineas . (Please ref'er to another aection of · t6e president .tinalq arrived and . tbia Ee~ ~or a list of ru_les.) the.following neeting took place. lltggestiot:u Continua this fomat with the bus~sl! meeting after~ program •. lllY ACTIVrl'IES Jfemberahip ~port CmllpMuir

··97 paid menibersJ 2 others ·. .la hoped tor 1n last month I s kho, a · fOl'lll&l outing up to Camp lllir vu ·Treasurer I s Report .~t organized. However, Boalpa H.W. Smith and son; Glenn Riehl and Jerry Reported a who~ping $11 h70.SO. . and Pat Hil,lis lll&de independent (Most or this 1110n91" is earmarked for tri~a up during the month:. our proposed building.) Ht. Jefferson Boe.llp Hut ..lt press .time, six climbers haw Proposed. location ia Icicle Creek. signed up tor tbia trip and· a report Thia is a good area for rock cl;i.mbing, will· be in next mcmth'a Echo. a1d. tour1-ng, (trm a repel?) fishing,· etc. · · · Leaftnworth Area late: The location will be 'DUt to a ciu.6 vote at the next genera! Hq 17 and 18, Dwight Baker and Ron ■eating. Kqo spent the weekend eumining pro­ perty 1n this area. Jer?7 and Pat Hillis .lctinties I.aft Seattle Frid~ night and canped at Eight Mila Oupgraund. Saturday, • · · See Echo th91" left at 8 ·a.m. for Snow Lakes. Tbe trail was tree ot enov until just Ccmaervation above Snow Creek Wall. Patches or trail were visible until just be.fore crossing , A brief description of local conserva­ the ridge into the.Hada Ielce bal!lin. tion problems, such as the proposed Hada IAllce itself was still .frozen except dame on the Snoqualmie River waa near the outlet. The campground at diacuaaed. Hada was clear and dry. The moraine at the bead or Nada was still cowred with snow and t!,,e atternoon sun made but ,\ I climbing difficult Snow Lake was Th i■ . meeting waa a huge success-- reached at 3 o.m. : The cabin was uaabla appto:ximately 140 people. Dee Molenar but one spot on the ground beside the educated his audience on the ins and dam afforded a much batter campsite~ au.ta or Mount Ba1n1ar. !he trip out Sunday- was .quite easy and .... tbe car was reached by ·11 a.m• :aGB 2 JUBB ACTMTIES _.. ~. .:· ,~::/~.~/;~ ·:.rt{)},i-:~ ·;1ah1... :Mission ~idge aki1ng and. ·.-: : : · .. -."; ~. ·: \ : .,. •: ~:. : ·: :. tbe Bavarian shop a ot '-'eawnvorth are . Mt.. Adams ., · :. ;. l: :::, ·..-... :/ .~.;:_;•:::, .·-~.. :·. •:. , ~e~.y. tor:~'98 loped area x-ecre·at ion• . .• . .: •: ...... ~ : ·.: ..·:·._. : ·. .: ~:_. .' :.~ ...._ _. .:· . . ·•. . . . . June 1h and 15. •Oueat Iaader1t Biii. • .:,. ·.' .!be Bxacutiw •Board has revievad the J'antossi will lead a climb ot Mt.. ···· 1nto;rmation and pictures obtained b;y Ada.Ila and anyone interested 1n going .. , · ~n)fay,o and Dwight Baker, May 18, and mat .~ntact Bill at least one week :J"9commended that the committee ~ to the cl.illlb. The selection ot negotiate a firm proposal with the the route has not been 1118.de and will ·owner to be presented tor Club approval depend on the group. Contact Bill ·. . at .~b~. June S meeting. · J'antozsi at 237-37S2. ·.-· . .A .review ot previous hut proposals J!t • .. .. : . and c;omplete details with color Ogmpua . ' slides. at the.Leavenworth but will' be Jul.;y ,4th weekend. Ron Bing will .lead a trip up Mt. OlJmpua owr the 4th ot . pre•~·...... July weekend. Thia will be a th:ree-d,q· Come prepared to 'VO te.l trip. Contact Hon Bing . at 6SS-8$62.. ·...... ··-· .. . 111W1 PROCEDUHES FOR 'rDlT USB : a. Ra~n1er I • . ,• 0.: • •••• :: •. 0 • . DSPOHSIBILITIES~ · July 19-20. Thia will be the annual· Boealp attempt_on Mt. Rainier and will I. The lxacutiw &ard · shall be r be led by our i'resident. Dwight a.Jc~ •• '1'be final autborit7 tor all rule and our activities chairman Paul Netf'. and procedural interpre~t.1.ona. A conditioning clilllb(a) will be b. Soleq responsible tor and required ao it is suggested that ur · capable ot assessing penalties. questions or eligibilit,- be anavered · 2.. The equipnent chairman or Ma earl,y 110 that· conditioning can be immediate delegate shall: acheduled. A trip up Mt. Baker will be •• Store the tent when not in uaa. announced in naxt month'• Echo tor · · b. Schedule the. use ot the tent in thie purpose. Contact Dwight Baker a fair and suitable manner. or Pa-ul Natt for inf'ormat~n. c. ·· Ar.range for nece&S&l'f repairs aria..::·· maintenance. . BOT CCIOO'l'TEE REPORT d. ~ a record of all use, damages, abuses, repairs and associated We have a very in t.ereating prospect coats. . for acquiring an existing moun:tain­ ••· Bepor.t all rule:or 'procedure •ring but near Leavenworth. It deviation to the Bxecutiw Board. · appears to be wall .suited tor our needs . 3. The Treasurer shall:. · and budget. a. Collect the tent loan depoait ri.a tbe Equipment Chairman. ·. .It· 1a a large, solidly built, log­ b. Repll,7 deposits, lllinua any chalet sj;;yle two-story building with ~alties incurred. full basellll!lnt, coal turnace, complete c. vide funds to the Equipment plwabing and wiring. It is 1D a . QJ&irman aa required to· ma1n- · •eluded undavelooed area on the south ta.in the tent 1n a useable · · •· bank ol the Icicle·River near the lish condition. Hatcha:i• ,It is convenientq ··· 4. The using club· _mem~i: must comply acce1, itile to excellent rock climbing with the rea~riction~ and procedures and the beautiful Mount Stuart and established or be subject to penalt1. Bnchantar.ent Lakes high country tor - ... bild.ng, climbing, aid mountaineering, .P.&01 ·3 . . RESTRICTIONS. . ARD_, . ELIOIBILn'Ic . . Board• the following penalties miq' '.be : · · ·:· imposed for not compqing to eatab- . 1. Arr, me'l!lber of the BOEAL.._'PS ~ ~~~~~ .~!d~~_; __ __. ·.. ...;. ... - borrow the tent, regardleaa: or w~ether • .. • other part7 11e11bera •1!,r& :eoEALPS. := _·. • l. Obvious major. abuse:~-,, ot ·- 7 2. Reservatioi'ia ar-e accepted on··• . re.pair up to $10 plus no further u.• .first-coma, tirat-aerved· baaia, except ot Club propertiea. . as noted. · 2. Minor abuaea-:-coat ot repair up 3. Weekend uae shall take preference to $10. -· :: over extended use. Any ~xtended u• ). Lost components-coat ot must be approved . by the .i:ixecut1'V8 Board. replacement up to $10. Ir due to · 4. lfo me111ber ia eligible to borrow groaa carelesaneaa, Itn l. applie■• the. tent more than once in any three 4. Damage due to nol'lllal wear-no. nd :!"!8u 1t~--!~_-.o~i. .~ -~-~~~ .. - ~S;t7Damage due to mountaineen.ni s. No memper 111a, have more than · · ·accident--no penalt7 (~lie• to w1Dd one active· reHriaiion at ant~timit".·--:·:··---·~--aamaJ~,·'i-oc1c:ra1:1;- cl'iinber· .tall•• .. ~ . ... ·. . · · · hail etc.). ' · PROCEDURBS t · 6. Late return--$2 .so per dq ~r the Wednesda, following the reaerftd 1. Club roembera who wish to borrow weekend. The tent is not considered the tent should make a reservation with returned until all component■ are . the Equipment Chairman. returned. 2. The borrower must place a $10 · 7. Tent not properl,y cleantfd or deposit to cover possible penaltie ■• dried--no further use of Club prop~. · Checks should be ma.de payable to the ertiea. · BOEALPS. - • 8. 'Failure to report damage or :J •• The borrower shall pick up the missing components-cost of repair or tent from the .l!.quipment "'hair.aan on the replacelll8nt up to $10 plua no further 1huradq preceding the reserved wekend. uae or Club pr~.,artiea. · Arz:, other arrange111ents must be at the convenience of the Equipment. Chainlan.

4. A:rter uae6 the borrower mat clean and dJ7 the tent. S. The borro,,.er shall return the tent and all accessories on or prior .to . ; the Wednesday following the re86rvecl. ,. weekend.. 6. 1'he borrower ahall ..report all ... ~amage or detects to the Equipment 1,;hail'man. 7. The borrower shall receiw a refund on bis depoait6 minus &UT . penalties incurred, one week after the retum of the tent. B. Arr, exceptions to ·the abo"8 procedures must be approved b7 the Executive Board.

PEHALTIBSc At the discretion ot the l!:xecut1w BOEING EMPLOYE.ES ALPINE SOCIETY, INC.

· -· ,r:-7- ' ~mioi':o:&···e:a ·- 2 I a '"l President: Dwight, Baker :SS--2.SSO Membershi'O 1 Bob .storu.sli 65>2415 Vioe Pres.a Ron Johnson 655-9572 Aot:ivities I Paul Nett 713.J4.?S1 Secratal"J"I RQn B1ng 6SS-BS62 P:rograais1 Lee West 342-0224 Treasurera Charles :9rown 7?J-2J85 Conservations Erhard ~hart 6S.5-6172 Boho Editors Jerry Hillis 655-2740 Ku.ta,. lon·Ka10 6SS-1BS6

~, Meeting cuar.x,1m Dae to ant1.o1pated high absanteeislll because o-r the loJig weekend sta:rtinc J'r1dq, the meeting was cancelled b.r the Board. tie will hava a abort social •&ting this :month. See al:!mb :notic•s• Ba1n1e-r-, Jlil, 23.

t,;,t m°'\ \ \~~ \o !.+ •,"" MA\\. EJ.~+or MINUTES OF JUNE S MEETDG . :- :i:t was moved by BPn Bing and s~cond~d • .. ·:· _ , . :'b7, Bi.J;l Leavsns t!lst the society' a-::,prove ?:rogram: A very entertaining•porUo~ .:_.. . :: ·. · .. . :·:-··•th~ nvf/-Y'ear lease and operation ot the .ot slides was presented by Mike· Reea . · .. : = . • • ··x.·a.ve~,rorth Hut as out.lined by the · sho,,r.1.ng climbing areas throughout the ·. · :. . .Coriu!littae this evening, subject to the world. Vary well done! .· --.,~-pproval. .ot the Boeing Recreation Unit-t.. This motion was carried--18, yea; S :ao; BUSIJESS .. 3 absta:ined. (Note: Th1s nu.'!lber con­ stitutes a ouorum und.er the constitution Treasurer's Re")Qrt: $1,476.52 the and by-laws·of the Alpine Society.) 0 in bank. A vote or appreciation was given to Activities: It ln.s ra")()rtad by' Paul D-dght Baker and Ron Me.yo for thidr major J;eff that Ken Varcoe "1111 replao• ·ettoz-t. in wrkin.i the proposal th.ts :tar. Bill Fantos~i as leader of the Mount ' . Adams climb. (Bill hac;i to go to Members on the Hut Conu:d.ttee are Ron Mayo, Europa--?Oor ~.) · Charlie Bro.m, Lea "!'.,feist. Paul Natt and Bill stark. Membershi'O 1 10? paid members; ) others. Pins.l negotiations ·dll l'JO".f be made ...1th Con!arvations ?rbart ffichart. 'Dresentad the- o,.-1t1er regarding the lease. Notes The · his re1'0rt.. · owner did not a:-:,!)rove an option~ at 1. Al·:,ina La.lees ~rotection Society· the end ~f' five years. (ALPS) will he.Va a slide shoY on June 12 at the University of ~,rashington•s (Mi.r1".1tes taken by Ron Bing.) stU:ie!lt Union Building at 7:45 ,.m...... ~ ...... 2 • Frank Vikhi ta of the North Cascades Conserv~tion Council would llka ~ @'qffl . O'U.1' OOi!"ll!l8nts on the re--ort which just ce.'!!18 out called "?rails and :loads on Castie Rock, Ma:y 31: Ibight Baker, Ron the North Cascades.• Bing and Rq !Cube cli.-:ibed the Midway- Route on Castl9 rock. ~-Te set a record to:r ~!ote I Cli~bers Gui~e to the J1ozwth the longest time--I think; ca. 6 hours. ire Cascades: This book ~:r!lich is out o:t · rotated leads on the -n:y up, -,lus we "')rint is currently" bein2: rensed and · h~l-oed ~-girl '!-dth 'directions ·,rho ~n.s . re-:-rritten by- Fred Beckey through the hanglng bal.o,.v on ovarhan;: on Devils Delight ~untaineers. !fe.ny tra.Us and routes tor at lea.st an hour. · ha.ve changed since its origin.,.l ...ublication. and he is veey interested in obtaining 8 :•&.le Lake., June 11 The Bakers 9.Jld in!'or:r-l.tion on the dif'ferences. All the 3ings hilced u., to the lake :,rhiah ims BoeAlos are invited to a.ssist in this ver'j :,rett7 and trae ot snow on SWday• .,,rojec:t by --ro•li.ding deta.il-,d descri-;,tiona their current an1 recent olimbs, or Mt. !uinier via Disa.'!'\-:,oint.'llent Clesver1 particularly routes not ,reviously pub­ June -7-8: P..on 9ing, Rsy- Kube and Ted lished. Send inf'orrll!l.tion to the Schotten •~ere c~ec~ed out by the Rangers Mountaineers, P.O. Box 122, Seattle, a.t Paradise on :?ri-ia.y evening a.long lfith ";!l. 98111. For:4s are available tor 6 other no?1-"9oealp climbers. NOTB: The this -::,u.rt10se from the ~!0unt$1nesrs, bu.t .c~1ecid.n; --:rocedure has been streamlined. are not r91.uired. this 7ear--the oli~ber only need anr.rer verb:'llly' l-rhet-:ier he :1.1.s or has not each Le!!Ven~rorth ~ts Slides ~-rere sho'lm and rei~red piece ot e1uipment. a "='ro -osa.l :ras T>rasantad to the Club :ue~ars in ~-rhich ?-rr. Bullit (o~mer) -:tould A VQte was taken and, due to the mist, it lease & c~bin to the BooAl~s tor a . · ~s ·· d•~ed to begin the trek to Camp Muir ,eriod of five years at a rent ot $SO . · · ..·, ··· s. :,ear. PA.CB 2 .,, S a.m. Satllr'igy mor.aing. Along t~ ...... : '·::··j~1:&chr via a canve~ntq scul~tured · wq, the gl'011p ns able to phato(irai,11 a .: .:·>.. ·:· ..~··; ·~~se ot steps. Da~ brought a bright . tlJllilT.-'Ol Ptal'Oligan birds as -:Jell as ·. :.. •;: ··.~.. '.':.':.\:.'.~~ -~ and a variety- ot ills. Eight other Yildllte. Muir was reached. at:· ·.,:: :· :::: / ··.~:boun-'Jf8re Nquired to reach the summit. :10 •••• !Uld tound to be q_uite un1n- · ·. ·-·:;"•.: .~:. :.~; ~ ·:.: · ":-.' :: ~-- ·. · . ' °),.bited. The af'ternoon •-ras s?9nt :p~ . · ... . .' ..T~ ~:, O!)DSisted ot len Varcoe, leader, . .. chess, eatins and aalillatizing. · ·. · . ."-.<;· · _:_ .. Cl~~ .A.nders~n, Xilc• Gritith, Fred · : ·. , · •~.- -..., .. ::,:·BedJlom, Mr. and .J,t1'a. Leanna and son• . J.t aidnight the weather ,ras too bad tb .. •." · ·· :: .: . ::-.:· ~·:: :: .~:) ·. : ·;:, :,. ·:· · · ·: · . begin and so it nnt throu3h the nigh~ . . · .. ·ro~ _succeeded 1n reaohing the to?). 2 .a.a., )130 a.m., .S a.lll.-n1.ning, ·. • .. · • .. ·· . · Ughteninf;,,~tc. :irogH Peakbif,810 :teet1 Three Boeal1'S oonf' l"dMd need tor the revision !)roject In the mo:rnbl~ a deois ion :n.s :nade to climb ot the A.A.C. guide book aurrantl.1' in . and so the t.hree of us started out ~-1'2.l"ds '!')l'Ogress on a cli11.b ot Fe>gff Peak Swriay-, Cadaver G&,:, 1it 6:40 a.:-:. The six other June 8. The route tallowed :ofl.s strictlT mambers 1ett· short'JJ" e.rter; ho~·.!9Ver, -a sat-r according to the boot, i.e., the east them turn aroun:l l'lter on. (It turned out_". ridge rrom the saddle be~,rean Cadet and ···.J that one had: the sya..,toms et ,u].'210n&17 • FOUT Peaks. This gave th9 ·members ... edema.) · . . • :. .' · · '· a.bout tiva ho'IU's ot rock cl.1.'11binl and ra.~elllng pi-act.ice betore reaching a . A number of -go-no-go decisions ,:,rare made p01n:t to .:f'hioh ths:, oc;,uld have climbed du.ring t.he cli'llb due to the ,oor visibilit7. 1,n one-hut hour tram their la.st rest (about 4S teet durin:1 the last 2,00_V9rt1c~ stop on the a-:,--:.rc,9.ch to the !'.)&ak. From teat). Ho:-raver, the air :i&s wam and · this: yoint, tha ·tinsl 600 feat tns not. there -:n.s no ;riDJ. Ra7 lCube could sea dit~cult :m-i the .SWUDlit ·-ras reach4'd. at the t'oot.,rints 1n the sno·r ~-rith his S !').Ill. attar 10 hours on the mountiiln. !]Ola:roid· ;;13.sses ·so he led us up the Usµig our ne~., short out route, tho time tin:il st-retcq. to the crater rim. :ih11.e required f,,r tha descent to Mon"ve Cristo sittin~ on the rim, .the ws.ther t1n,Jl,:· was lllUc~ less-only 2f·bours. . ~leared, ,o ~i8 ~-ralkecl owr to the su:mllit ~ hioh T"" re.ached around ·1::30 "?•m.• Mt. Jefferson, Memorial ':·Taekend: Four Boeal~s left Sesttle Thursiay even~ of 'While on the SWll2it ~,re sat-r 6 tiey ti~s Memorial Da.:, ·-ru!atnd mth rain but high alimb over Libert:, Ca';> so :-re kn8tf' th._t hopes. Five hours later in ?art.land, the Chuck Crensha-:1 !'Uri his ?U°t;r or .S com.­ · bolida.;r :,re'lkend. trattic 'bGgsn to thili and .oleted their oli~b ot Ptar~igan. Ridge. the rain hsd sto-.-ied. Detroit, Oregon, ;-ras. reached at 1 a..111. an:l after searching tor a I became ill on-the w.y dow. ~i'e re1ched noant au,, s-.ot tor alr.iost an hour, m, Hliir &t s 'O.m.. ~re we sto~-:-ed tor tea and ato 9--:ed 1n. the drive".f&J' ot a cam;.,ground. a rest; then descended. to Paradise and Two other 3oea.l?:>S •-,ere to join u-, in after ch•ckint out ,ftt h:Ld a hea.rt.y m.eal at Detroit, but ·at-· 9 a .11. ·,~ left the R~er the Gata~,ra,7 Inn. station and drove to th, bs.11nnin$ ot the Jetterson Park trs.11. Less than a mile Ht• Bakar1 June 141 1,1 of trail ~-ras clear or sno:,r, but t~ -persons had 1reoeded u.s ~-ilo lme-..r -,,here tbeJ' The Boe1.l-os I Ht. Ad-a..-ns climb was · were 10~ so :-re m3.de good time. C&lili:-, ··, •·. NdiNotad to Mt. 9aice:: a.t the last ?,SOO f't., ~ras M?.de on the ridge that over­ 110111.ent due to•im"'.'&sa&bla roads into Kt. looks Jetterson Pi:rk. The t"° missing Ad&llls. At Ht. 3!!.-'!car, the ~art:, a.sse:11bled ~ea.lps shO'~'ed u-,, having left 3e9.ttle late Saturdq night and cam-:.ed ca. 700 that mornlng. The next 1110rning we wre teat above Ms~ cabin at the b1se ot U'9 at 4 a.:n. a.ni lett Ci.Ill~ a.t S. Since Col.a!a.ar?. Gla.aier. none of the grou-, had been· on the 111:>untain bef'ore, w 110re or lesa· tollo:m the P.1,de · SW\day- be~an as So Mountainffrs trod by­ book. Sncn conditions ":.ere iood and the . under ""a brilliant night sk:,. !'ol.]g,rl.ng weather ·.ras Ntrtaot. ~-re had cam"'8d on shortly' thereafter, w ascended Colell!lll P.AGE' . :- ...... ~ : .... :. ..." .. t~e north side of the ~tain·?Ut the : ·. . Dece,:,tion In.kes, Jul,y 26-zzs Thie 1d.ll easiest ascent appeared to be 'b7 the south be an ove~ht hike led :by' Jerrr Hillis~ ridge so :n, tn.versed the ea.st side ot -~h~- ...... , Dece;,tio~ ~kes a.re reacbe:i b,- ~~~ving -~ ( · . l:il0unta1n. ~The view is S?9cta.eulsr ~ --.:· : :: ,. .. . .- / ·.:, -:. SC:'enic. a tr.1 mi~•s _. i-78st of Stevens. Pass. is, in itself, worth the tri"O. !hree ·· ~- ·, '..' ·· · . ·. The_hike to !>ecej,t1on Lake is o~ -7 ro~ tea!IIS ot 2 men each were used.. One · · · miles and .~ood fishing is available in ·ro-pe teara turned back at 9,800 feet. ~ -~se Lske, Glacier La.lee and Deetrot,ioD --"The other f'our continued to the summit ·· Lakes; Contact Jerri Rillis at 655-2740. sa.ddle and lunch. One 1"01'8 team n11 · f'ormed ~-rhich made a ridge crossi:ag t~t · .. . Rainier, July S• i-Ted., Sa.JO ~.m. i TM.s as one :11elllber --,ut it, "made the 'Terrible ···- :;n1 be a guide clil:lb Up the steps to the ·Traverse1 look 11.'ce a -,ionic. II The Ba.War Roor.s and through the ice tunnels sUllllllit rock lf'&s ooverr.1 with ice and after or the bremtr.,. Another summit to cele­ an hour ot attem.. tins to tin-:1 a l1&Y' u'?, the brate if' you :Ila.de the real thing.three grouo was turned back. The tri? back wu _day's bef'ore, and for arq ot:iers -dsbing to uneventful and-the cars were reached at enjo;y the free retreshlllents and boa- . -S p.m. Maybe next J9&r. pitalit7 ot our fine local bre-.r house. Thi This is the eaq t-:&J" to do Rainier. There ~'.e!ll'bers msldng the trip ~-rere Rolam is a -large relief' map there to trace.Your Amundson, H. ~f. Sl!lith, . Iain Linn, Da.ve olimbizll route so 1'011 can talk comdJi~ ng~ Hambly and Jerry and Pat Hill.is. l _ater about y-our climb with _the bo;ya · · back at the office. T~s 'fas a var., ...... popul~r Club "climb• last year. See :,au there. ACTIVITIES Lee.w~10rth Hut: Ze~bers mio attended Baker, July 1~, l~s This is a glacier ihe Ju."19 Club ·~eating got a aomt>lete cl iulb con11t1oner ~or binier t~e next re~:-t f'rom Ron :-t~ and D:ds;ht Baker on . ~-1sa1cend. Tal<~ Glacier Crsek · road, just the proµosed le:a.se ot an existing hut 1n '!>I.st Glacisr Ranger st 1.tion. Bike to. Maha Leaven;rortb. :,re111bershi~ turnout ~•ras good cabin Saturda7, climb via -Coleman glacier a?ld the· vote ~-ra.s over t•:ro-tbir-:is :l.n favor SWrlay. Leader, I>:dght Baker, 65_,.:.2550. ~ of the '!ll"O'--.osal. eurrent status a.t ':lr&sa tilue -:-ras that :f& have received the lease .. ?.!!.inier, Jul;f: 18-201 . h-oo;ns rout.a. ~• .. f'rom t'he o-,m.er. It 11N.st be studied b,y . ~-r.ill drive aftsr ·.;ork Friday to :4hi.te ~var t~e Racre~tion Unit before si;~ 'b7 Club ca11t:>ground !or 7 ~-•• ahea!< in •dth ranger, officer~. ~fe &re tir-•lizing an agreeme~t t!1en hike ) miles· to 3tarbo oa.m~. Saturdq 1f'ith the U.s. Fish !h.tc:1e17 tor a u.se climb to cu., CU.~is or beyon:1 tor a gl9.cie1' · ;er.nit for access through their looked Calll'0 if' conditions :ieNit. At least tw ga.te. Ron ~-Ia.yo na~s 110re hel-;, to ,..J_an the msjor .glacier cl1~bs this season or initial ·aleanuo and renov,tion ·:mrk and e~uiv~lent are re1uired tor the club ol~b. develop hu.t o~ra.tinc "llans. Je oan m1z (See l"e!)Ort oJf 3aker olir.lb. . this issue•) a. .little ":fOrk· ....rith interludes of rock Those -1ianning ta so ~r• N ":!_Uasted to · climbing or other -,loasantrias there. notify le:1der by July 11 and 3ttend a · Call Ron :fayo on 655.1856. -=ieeting to organize ro-;,e taa.."lls at BSRl, . c11.fateria 7 t>.m. :-1ednesday, July 16. See . Revised !3yle:t-rs: Attac~ed to this Echo is o!"i"icial tla.rk rules attached.. Leader · · & C0Tlj1' oftiia C01?17'letely' revised b;rlaws Dwight. Ba.it3r, 6SS-2.5SO; co.. Leader, Paul · · _. for your revi~r. This is the resUlt ot ??aft, 713-47.57 • · · . · · a consid srable amount o't ti,-ae 9..""q>ended b.r a · deVoted co11lmittee :mo S":'ent timo ':!'ritiJJc :E:nc~tt.nt:.-;~nt Lakes Au-rust 1- : A group drafts and "lleeting evenin~s in nit-~icldng of Eoei ,sis definitel;y ~~ into the sessions t.o set fl'ler-J last lo.-Ord and comma ~=!lnntment Lakes to climb and bike. ri~ht. It h~s been Made consistent '!4'1.th Contact Ror. Bing, 5-8562 if' int:,rested. our le3:1l · document, tb.e Articles or Incol""".­ __... . ·-- oration, and thG ~-1&1" ~ta actuall,y are . . . : ... · ...· ' .. ,- ·.' , . . . .~ ·,: .. ' ·. . . ' ...... --- : :organized and o'9erate the vanoua otfices , -and oo'JU!d ttees. ~~rdini has been ·' .- · ~ :C~&ritied throusbout e.n:i some 1189A re- • .~rel'l8nts ot the Recreation Unit ware .· JX>~rated. This constitutes ottiai!.1 .' notice th1.t these -oro~aad b"'l&l-rs :dll. ·· :be oonsidered tor ado}1tion a.t the next · ngular meeting 1n Au~. A good turnout· '. ·· 1s. needed to assure a qu.ol'Wll, and a t~~- . . thirds. vote is re,,uired to ~ass. So · · · · please read it and be ,.,re •arad to vote. co.,,ies ot:~ existin~ brlaws ~-re1-e distri­ . buted to •-:btrs durln3 the ·.:'ast year. · .Additi.,nal OO?ies will be svail1.ble at the · August meetin.~ or can be requested trr>lll .':eon Johnson 655-3409 or !>.-right :saker 655-6871 • .: 87-La~ Coinmittee.i Ron Jobnsol1', Bob Storaa.s111 Erba.rt "Achert and .Mght Baker.

PAGES I , . • '• .. • • • • • I : - . . i Mount Rainier Batioaal. . . Pal'k. ' .. ; .. . •· ...... RULES FOR 8tJMNI'.r CLIMB . ~ '-:: .:. ··.• . ·. . . ·. . . : . . - ··· • ; .. ·. .. : . :..: :_ .... . : ..· .· .•: _;·:: . . l. ~: The ·l!IUllllller climbing .au BOD. begins· on· Memoria1 Day• or the ~gj nn1 ng of any three day weekend including Memorial -Day, and extends through .tabor • I Day, it sate climbing conditions exlat• . ·:•.: :·" · · · ·· ,. 2. REGISTRATIOB: All climbers are. required to register with a Park Ranger 'before . ' attempting, and after the -return from., any climb above the normal. high campa. \

3. PEBNISSIOI: Pa,rmiasion tor each speci:fic climb is granted on the baaia ot ex­ perience and party· strength. All persona under 21 years ot age must bave· the•· written permission of their parent or legal guardian before attempting a sum­ mit cllmb.

4, LEADERSHIP: The party_ leader J!IUSt be experienced in aimi.lar bazardoua climb­ ing and indoctrinated ill safety and rescue. The lead.er 1·s reapons1bl.e for the party's adherence to cl.i.ll!bing regulations as well as its geD.e1'11l ·velfare. Be is turther ·responsible for checking in all of his party at the point ot oriS111 · and will personally clear his party with the· check•in station at canpl.etion ot climb. . ·

5. GLACIER TRAVEL: Unroped travel or climbing-on any active glacier or crevassed: area is prob1b1 ted. Certain areas •Y be subject to annual variations. Rangers will review this rule with all parties at the time ot checkout. 6. PA'Iffi SIZE: Solo climbing is prohibited on glaciers, crevassed areas and on rock routes above the normal high camps. Parties must normal.ly consi1t ot at least two rope tea111 of two persons each or one rope teEl"' of thrc.e persona. . . . . ~ 7. lQ_UIPM!ffl': All equipment must be of adequate design and be in aaf'e~ eem.ce­ able condition.

Required Equipment, Personal: Climbing boots, full :frame steel crampomi, ice axe., :first aid kit, three prusik slings, sleeping bag., sunglasses or gossles, · adequate inner and outer clothing, food, a~d sun cream. ·

ReSt,~ired Equipment, Pa~: Topographic mp-> compass, tlsahligbts or head- · lights and rope. Ropes must be equal to or better than 3/8 inch syuthet.ic · fiber climbing rope vith a minimum oi" one 120 f'oot rope for each "talree ~

Reca.mended E;,,uipn:ent: Stove matcties~ e:x:t.ra :tood. and clothing, wands., water bottle, carabinera, hard bats, pulleys, and tarp .or tent shelter. OTHER INFORMATIOI: l. Register with Di.strict Rangers for route information _on the Littl~ TahOllll cllmb~

2. Regia"trat1on is advised for parties planning to climb minor peaks or mke aJcl. ·tours and. traverses over d1f'1'1cult terrain.

Federal Re@tions Cited:

&!ction 2.6 Closing of areas. Restrictions may be .placed on tb.e pulilic u.ae of ·. aay portion of a park area through designation by ~e Supe~t.endent.

Section 2:24 Sanitation • . ·Rubbish and waste materials of any kind must be cl1s­ poaed ofat designated plac~s (trash cans) or removed trom the area. BOEING EMPl.OVEES ALPINE SOCIETV, INC.

?.PJ:-esi9ent: Dwight Baker 6.55-0688 Membership: Bob Storaasli 6.5.5-2415 ·. Vice. Pres.: Ron J6hnson 6.5.5-9572 Activities: Paul Neff 773-47.57 •. Secretary:. Ron Bing 6.55-8562 Programs: lee \vest 342-0224 Treasurer: Charles Brown 773-2385 Conservation: Erhard Wiehert 655-6772 Echo Editor: Jerry Hillis 6.5~-2740 Hut: Ron Haye 6.55-1856

August 7 Meeting

MEMORABIE 1rRIPS

Bring along up to 10 slides to illustrate some of your memorable and more :interest- ing trips. High quality photography is not a necessity.

Don •t forget--we are also voting on the revised by-laws. A good attendance is requir~d.

Ii ! ...... ,______a _____ :, CLIHB BEPORm in .lli and 3 pound bottle ■ at drug-~rea~ and take along an extra valnJ. Tbe ,Ct. Adame most excit:\... avant o~ the trip vaa vbea Dvight'a engine caught fire 1n the · Sir. lloee~ had a nm •nrv cl1llb ot. Paradi• parking 1ot·. wck1].y1 a· Mt • .&dams ~ Suk~t Ridge OD Jane nearby motorist aaveci the da, with a 28 and 29 'wb1le allot Western Wash• handt :fire extinguisher. After a hp.at,' inDon~ inclu.d1itg moat climbera who · jury-rig repair oi' tbe leaky gaaoline picked lo.~er eievati.cn objectives, ware line, we left tor home in a denee f'og. bathed. iii .tog and drizzle. Tha party ccnaisted ot ·Ken ·Varcce, Paul Neff and Ht. 01l!!E!!a Tim ~~etf who arrived attar gettd.ng raj.ned out the previoua·'ninbt at St,. detena; On S.turdq ~ing, .J~]i Stb, a moat and 0101:~. ~~era.on, .IJan ,Linder and ■agnif~ent panprL~ pt nature un.folcl,-d · Dw~t Baker. .Proapecta of' good weatber before om,- e1es. ..~ b~ just -croaaed were aUm 'wh~n ve made canip in cloud~ . tbe SOON brldglng 'the bergabrund at .. . and. intermittent rain one h< mile the 7,200. foot ~a ~ading ~ t~~ await .fraii· the ni'-'1 and· on the aoath sloe v.;aN of Mt. 01.ympas:,·(the bqJQB .of the ne,i-..or~ an01t' b~cke!=l the road. aut, by our . goda). The 18 .!IIUe Jl.il(e in,·. from tba Hoh 4 •••• start·, · cloud'ei bad diaaipated and Hanger Station was certainl,r •ell. wort.b- we climbed to the sulllllit in ~oming wbile. · . ..· · aunehine and col.ti air. lCeiniar and .ilood were ..v.lsible al>~·• . ·cloud a ~ d we. . All Boealp -~T. ~iab&p_wen mppoaed. descended into· gathering cloud.a and to have •t at· Glacier Meadowa on : liP,t anow,,just ·o.elow t..'le false Priday night •. Uofortunateq, 10111'9 -~"· .. summit. Some new forest service roads not able to make.it in.all the way, ao tbeae around the weat aide of Adara's from .Randle · people clblled on tbe:ir own • . Our . 111ake thia a shorter trip now than by party or· six began. the.ascent from.the ( ·eeva, through Vancouver. · l!lllout ot tbe 'Bl.ue illi!lcier at 4130 .a.n.. Saturday•. ~e ~de. ra9id progress • . . . Mt •. Ba:ln1er acroas the glacier w1.i.ere ve i>ut on orampona :for the clillb .up ·~he chute aod on to While tog a:nd rain continued to blanket the SlOV do1118 • lbe anov dome is veiq the. lowlandi' on :Juq ~tb weekend, a anall large on top aad planes, equipped '!i,t.h :,• Boealp party climbed Rainier in the akie land t.:lere in order to auppq 'the · amt9hine. ·· Ray Kube, ,'~rry Long (guest), Uni:veraity o.f ':ll1ahinRton glac"°logiate Dave Wear, and Dwight J:Saker ~n~ who live in the I.G.Y. hut. On our Friday night in the cl'ouci a at 04111p way do1'in, Pete Peterson ~ I atopt,J8d .. Muir and started up Oibralter route there and talked .with some of the four into clear alq' at 4•30 a.m. A cold night people 'llho liva t.!lere and their t:1ree · had frozen evaeytb~g hard, holding all guests. the huge 1a1claa and rocks D1ce4' in place overhead llbpve the ledge and lfflOW 1.f.-.. t~-. s~ow dorae, .we climbed up. a · chute. There vaa a cold 40 knot wind 25 deg~. aoov. elope_ lead ··.ng t.o the 71 200 at the •1Jlllllit crater. We descended tba foot ,,ass.. Tb,en' around tbtt •back" of the standard. "r.. ..:_ ...... route t.o Mair. Dave I ~":--" mountain, owr a ridge and down to the ~ 1 axperiltent Id.th a .3 pouncl 11Lite- ba.sa of the eummit where we· aeceuded the O-Oen• ox,ygen bottle provided some apiked a:iow. Ifie nmct did a claea )-4 pitch breatbara mi· rest. stops, but loss of the on some rotten rock t,o the au11mit, tank discharge valw ~t a atop to vhara ve ate lunc!l.· We daai:ended tbia .at 13,000 £eet.. It va■ concluded the rock bJ an eaa_i.er led;;e. that tba enr& ve13bt WU not 110rtb the benetu,. Hoi'ewr, _in a large part7, Moat ot tbe climb vaa· done iii brilliant 11:,ere ·all c1.imbera I abilities are not sunahine.,· ~ 11ambera included l) · .al~ known, the oqgen might be . Joe Xaamba, .8oyd Fairchild, Bruce Fairchild, Taluatile tor tBfflporar, relief' of aympto11a Peta Peter110n, Bon .Bing (leader)- aad or pullllonu,+ edema. It 11 aftilable Irene SimpaonJ 2) Paul Neff, Kan Varcoe

PAGB 2 and lea McCarty; and 3) Norman Clark, up at 2 a.:n., bit minor ditticultiea Charlie Clark and Bob McKee. (Judy dela.Yed the start until 4 a.m. Tbe.temp­ Bing hiked in just to carll" the leader I a erat.ure had dropped below tressing and 81111111Jt.. pack~) a wind had come up during the night._ The lights from ~attle were visible. Once started, the group ~oved well an4 . . arrived at the summit at 7:30 • .Eve:i;7"0ne The scheduled Boealp climb July 12 and ma.de it and 1n good condition and high lJ of Mt. 0 aker was a very pleasan't spirits. The trip down was uneventful and cl.1nib in almost perfect clear weather. the care ware reached around 3. Cloua_s dissipated in the evening at our CL'f!P on a rock bench abow lulshan Cabin, Thia is certainly' the way to do Bainier. just below Coleman Utacier. 1o1aturday Saturday 1s·a long day, out the summit afternoon and evening were spent in climb is short enough that no one haa snow and creva~se·reacue practice and t~ to suffer before reaching the' summit. instruction. .11tlewn of our party ot The only unhappy note was th-t 'the leaders 12 nached the amid~ at 11 a.m. bad to turn down some entbuai.stic but ahead ot several other groups including inax:~eriencad climbers. some Vancouver, B. c. skiers who t.ook skis to tbe t.op. 'lhe7 were unroped and Party members w~re Dwight Saker apd l'aul without crampons. With a cold·smnmit Haft, leaders; .tion Ding, H. w. Smith, wind, we descended quickt, to war.ner Roland .Amundson, Jerry a1111,, Joe elevations, broke camp and returned ltassub~_, all members, and Gl,oria 4nderson, hoir,e. The party consisted ot Daw Chuak Vaden, .Uave Campbell and Gene Ca.mptiell, Chuck Vaden, Gena ·Partridge, Partridge, guests. explorer scout guests; .Aka Sundstrom, Kjell Olson, Bill Tattersall, and Joe ~cep~ion Lakes .ti_ik~ ICasmba, proapacti111 mB!llbera, and Tard Sterner, ~ Kube, Lloyd Bunes, Iara The response to this trip July 26-27 . Wandin and Dv;igbt Baker, leader. was not large, but four guests and three. members nad an enjoyable hike un4er Mt. Ra1n1ar perfect conditions. Tbe trip oega:1 at the ~rprise Creek trail near ~enic ,a.t Tho annual Boealp climb ot Mt. Rainier fit a.m. Sa.turds,. The trail goes up got off to a good start Friday-, Juq 18 . Surprise Creek to Surprise Lake and · t:1en as 11 members and gue~ts went t~rough the to Glacier J:.ak:e. The trail is·vague in new check-out procedures. We sipped places around these lakes, but thia is through in no· time _and began hiking in being improved by the adciition of ~ew to Storbo Camp in uiacier Basin. ~be trails w:1Sre needed. 'lhe Surprisei Gap weather was perfect as it re111&.inad tor trail turned out, to be a surpi-1'58 as it waa the entire tr:lp. c-, was made in the 1narked 11 abandoned. 11 .l new trail baa been ~pan just beyond 30 'J:aco• Mountaineers put in so the group followed the s~s and plus sewral independent gmupa. Camp found th:..t line new trail is 1'8&11.y nice vaa broken at S a.m. 1n order to beat the but 111ore than a 1nile longer and 600 f'eet rush and Shurman was reached at 9. The higher. Deception Lakes were rea~bed later lo·•er route was visible as a broa.d traU. th.an expected, but at least the shelter was Af'ter an hour's re& we roped up again · vacant. and despite some· ·tail-end Charlies, good I tt'lia was made. wt 21 .a small bench Salmon eggs didri t appeal much to the vaa tound at 12,000 teat beside a nice trout, but :Junday morning anoth~ party arall cravaa"9. Sewral mow shovels had no trouble landing sewr&l nice ones aasiated in leveling. tent. .aitaa. on wo%1J•• On the return trip, we went t:ll'ough Surprise Uap and f' ound the trail to Tba next; morning .Hon Bing had ewr;rone be as good as the new one except for a

PAGE) f:)·•\ ·•rr_::.it..\ r- :&'',') -"l,',lt-, . ! fiI I ,R:f< .. ,J, ' 1 f ,::( .··- ~11';1,!e/ Mo'J'it.:and 'BoJ.\. -rown. ; f 1 1 i,f,·.i,\ \~:~ 1:1 •• :··~~t-.t~.C\:·:-::·: -~'; ·- - 'Y·:, ·.'.::ii:~~~ 11~;1~ ;: · )" • \I . ,J~.~. ~·i: '.~l~~:~tl!~ I ~ 1 • .~ • ,I.,, !:i,1fh' . I The traverse-· was, con't:inued .. rth;i;:.o:Qgp. ,;,W~~n~s~ i! i,,1_,. •.P, /~.i-1:,·1 .. ,., n:;.• ~ · . 'Ml: ,i 01 '-- : .. ' f' :~ ,·-~;r.!;.i.t:!Y':_ .,,1,c,;.uge·- u. :N"'Pus day and brought· us doi>m · ·pa:-st .. QJ:1.~~tp;:J;,,a.k,~ Qcl.~in ; i .~ J; ~· ' ,\, ,::'·'_-.c,:~ ., ·:·' and up to the basin o.f~Eikhom / .q®j)f_),_. ) [ ;_~ .. ;/1!-he/:tr~p:-p~~an at Soleduck '.road end below Mt. Ferry. Here:-',we.,•:f' ound ·:~~-w;:,::.· ' ,~:,._.~~t~r.d)ijz-~ _._" Jµ;ly, i2~ under overcast skies f illed meadows and· ,cirqu~5..t do;t:t~4'.,_li:it.l):.r -~ and, ,proi;e:e9~d j-,.past Deer Lake 'to the lakes, streams, and· :;i.n~t.e~~\t.i~g ::_ :w~t:~~~1 - ··-:, Seven --~e~t'Basin and; camp at Round fal ls.· 'fhursday, the"· T:id:ge.cre~~ -:~a;~J g_~µied · ~ -; 21;;;::Fci:r:~, those not"faniiliar wi th - at the · col between Mt;~-!i"~~l;"y.!•.-'~6,;.'t$.t9\\ · ·>;titr~\{aji~~;;;\t~is,, is, an. easily ~eached area and Mt. Pulitzer (6.r283:t):- ,·~a;in<'~:t:.t:~¥~g . o.t.f~;t ~ ( t,"e:rnfic aipµie sqene ry, , · : views of the eaS.tern·' Olympic;~•- i-~~j;$::.'.p¢..in,t • fi:sh~~-g'"-~ '4t1s, su,itaple for .family can also be. ·reached-by ti-.aj;l, 'wia,,,. :t;.:~~/··_/' · camp~g:.1::·}~n~--- lakes were appro):d.ma:te.ly Dodger· Pt. -Ludden Peak :route. l-1:~i_.-:,-,::r, 75· pe~.fc:~nt~frozen over. Sunday was Pulitzer and the south,-:, rn, Bailey- ·•.ijaAgE:l. .- : ·sP,1;i.nt: :nia~:~ g:,.a, .lf:'lisurely traverse of the were easily tra versed -to Bear Pass·• .:. w.~ covered ,with wild Glacier overlobkiilg-' · the Hubert , U1a.ci~r-far :;o I !low~rS:) tt~-J:>eyond d.e·scription. Tuesday below to the west. From here, we had, a good was -climaxtfd 'with the ascent of Mt • . view of Athena to the South, Middle -and Caniie uhirei alm;st cloudless skies. From East Peaks to the N'ort h, and Mt. 1'om to the ·OU~ .ne,_~ ·-_;yi~t;age po;tnt, we were now able W.N.W. :. ~p.. :~ee.·-al~ --o:r_· t ' e Bailey .ttange, the ·:·.horttiea~tetn 'Olympics beyond the Elwha Saturday was the highlight of the entire --, ' .,"! . {·A-\ ,;,'.:;. -·.,- :.::;~;' : • • .' dra:1;n~g~ .,_,~a; a panorama of snowy peaks· trip. We were f jnally at the base of the '/9:l:l_" 't:h~eYlfai around to · the Mt. Olympus Olympus Peaks. T1w a seen t of b:ast Pec\,k t · ·aa_~_ge· in- the 11Jast. ( 7, 725 1 ) · c-c.: ns isted of- a steep scramble up " PAGE 4

,I

• I.., ._ ,,..,-.,_ , ,. ,.,.,_ • - .: very rott·e n r ock and shale on the W.S.w. we hope, some productive ivork. It s l de. 'l'he descent was much easier by coincides with the .Le<1venworth i<'a,11 t;ie S • . E. side ,~;1ich is more gentle but Festival; so th,sre I 11 ·o e somet'.1ing for also rotten rock and s !". ale. The ascent everyone, families included . Plan's include of r'.liddle .Peak ( ca 7,930 1 ) carrying full some Club- furnished inducements, · such as packs was via steep snow and a slio rt gastronomic 'delight s, both food and ·, rock •scrambl e up the south side . ·rhe beverage (a keg) and ,ot her incec1:tives to de seen t down t he north sj_de t o the Blue join the party. \-le may even have a little Glacier aga~n consisted of steep rotten time for some sbort _rock clbrl:)ing ·diversions rock and ·shale. 'The East and l<•iddle on nearby boulders and wa Us. If you want Peaks are not too frequently climbed to join the fun in planning t his, .contact as evidenced by the lack of names on the Ron Ha,;ro , 6.55-1856; he need:;, a lot '.of registers and the abundance of loose committee support. rock and shale on eac:1 route . After crossing the u·::.1 pc. r Blue GlaciGr, v/e ACTIVITIES deposited our packs at the ~ive Fingers and began the ascent- of the ~,;t< st 1-eak Copper Lake--August 16-17 (7,954 1 ). The summit was 1·eac!1ed under cloudless skies and we were greeted by This is one of the finest ridt;e hikes a ·s:nall plane tipping its i1 ; ngs to us. anywhere. Thi;· trail be~ips belo1r1 Hannegan He,r_e we f ound numerous Boealps names on Pass northeast oi' !"It. Baker. Host oi' the the register from various trips, one just hike is on a rid,:::e and oi'.t'e rs unexceFed weaks prior to our own . views of the iforth Cascades. Camp will be made at Copper Lake . No shelter is iiunday, after enjoyinG the hospitality available. The trip is a 3,100 foot climb of Mr . and ::-•1rs . Ed LaChape lle at the and 7½ miles in. For :i.nformationf .call IGY hut, we made our exit doim the Snow ,lerry Hillis, 655-27110, · Dome, past the Cal Tee h camp anci the lower Blue Gla cier to the Hoh Valley. Glacier Peak, August 23-24 Sunday evening was spent at the Olympus shelter with ffoal exit early lfonday., This will be the last in the s" ries of A better week of weather could not have e lacier climbs offered by th,,., 2oealps been given us for cli mbing and picture this seascn. The trip will ·begJ.n Friday taking. Sure enough, oob did wear out ,•1i ti1 a car cau1p at the end of t i1e road . his camera on the exit. Th.e r (';u te tgken will be via Ke nnedy Hot Springs and hi gh ca;np will lJe just off' Party mer;1bGrs were Bob Gunning, Don the r:i.dr.;e l ead : ng to Ptarmigan qlacier. il,ing and Dennis Hendrick son. 'i':1c leader will be Jerry Hilli s and t hose inLerested shoultJ c cnta.ct !1im at 655-2740. LEAVENWORTH HUT HUT vrJ It.KERS ;mEDED After ap;Jroval oi' the rfot proposal by the Club ;nernbcrship at the June. meeting, The hut committee has planned work during a .fish hatchery access agruE.:ment was A11gust to prepare for the general work negotiated and signed and the lease party in September. rfe lp is needed to was finalized and signed by Dwight Baker 1) make shutte rs (This will be done in and fees were paid on July 15th. 'vie now Seattle evenings as soon as someo~e that has have a climbing hut for the ne.xt. five a work area volunteers) . 2) Remove remaining years. windows, order new glass, insta ll windows- ­ at Leavemwrth. 3) Check, re:Jail' ,iiriing, Ron Mayo's committee has started work i nstall lights, fi."\.tur es, test power system. 0 •1 selected tasks and plans are be~. ng 4) Check, repair plumbing, test water system. made to have a huge hutwarning 1,iork/social 5)Mop floors, ::;eneral cleanup, Items 2-S wee·rnnd Septe:nbe.c 27 and 28. All will be done August 16-17 a nd 0 ept. 13-14. Club me,;;bers should reserve t!1at wee1

President: Dwigh~ Baker 6SS-2SSO Hmnberebip: Bob storaaali 6SS-241S Vice Prea.1 Ron Johnson 655-9512 Activi t.iea: Paul Batt 773-47S7 Secretary: Ron Bing 6SS-8S62 Pro gl'Blll1n · lee West 342-0224 Treaaurar: Charles Brown 773-2385 Conservation: Erhard Wiehert 655-6772 Bebo Editor& Je"rrT Hillie 6SS-S94l Hut: Roa Ma_yo 6SS-l8S6

. 81!:PrE!-mER l«>NTHLY M1•uS'tI:«1

Thurllda,, Sept. J&, 1969, 7 :30 p.m • . B.S.lt.L. Hath Semi.Dar .Hooaa

ae~ PnOG.tW! Peru

Keith GuDDBl' is a keen mountaineer and photographer. Be baa visited man7 of t39 mountain area's of the world. Wit~ hie vifa, alBD an accomplished mountain traqler, they ba'V8 visi ted 100untauia in Alaska, Canada, New Zealand, l'9pal, Swiss Alps, East Uric& and Peru. He is a member or ·the mountaineers and tbe klerican Alpine Clu.b.

Keith will abow slides taken cli:ubing and sightseeing in the Peruvian Andee.

Thursd&¥, October 2, 1969

Hr HclINLitt

I.aat Juq a 118)f route was cli: .bed on Mt. · cXinley (20,370 1 ). Ken Jonea and a par ty of ab: made thefirat ascent of °Catacomb iiidge'' and t~e east r i dge of McKinel,1. '!'he t~ p took .36 days and ll,000 feet of fixed rope was used. To,tight Ken will be giving one of the f irst showings of slides ot t his 1'811Jarkable climb. ·

Ken baa been cli:11bing fcur years in which t illl8 he has cli:nbed in the Adi.rondaks, Selkirks, iiindrivar area, Tetons, . Cascades and the Canadian Rockies. .:-le has been ver:, act.~ve in climbing since coming here tlfo y-ears ago and has made a winter ascent of kinier. - 1-1I.WTES OF EI~iJ'l'IV"~ ~!!.'TINO 4• . By7~ws--Change Article V, ~ction 4, Subsection b. to read& 11A. quorun for Preaent were John Pollock, Ren Johnson, regular or spccn.al m:..et~ngs shall be (l,S) aon .ding, u,e i~est, Dwight Baker, fifteen per cent or tlae total :1embers:1ip "Erhard Wichert, Charlie Brown. 9r. the aver1i1ue number of !118:,rners attending • .,-~he two :nost recent, regular meetings, 1.. 1970 BoeAlp-aponsored 8-sic whichever is less.11 • Mou.ntaineering Course~-A proposal was presented b7 John Pol ..oc:k, which is ;. Leavenworth Castle-Dwight Balcer moved suminarl•d below: that the ~luo spend $SO t'or a $300,000 liability insuraace for the club hut. -Ten weak course uicluding field· trips Motion was secc nded by nc,n Binp, ano paaaad. and lecture/discussion aassions. -4:ourae to be given by 11ohn Pollock, Lee West was t:hen the task tc, formubte Harmen Jones, Hams Zogg. Hut Rules. ·r.~se will be quite brief at --In&tructors to furnish lecture :naterial, the start and will oecc:me more com1,lcte as student anaJ..ysia, ropes for initial the hut becano.s !liore o;,erable. practice sessions. -Students to furnish personal gear, text- i.>ooks, climbU!l: rope for practice climbs. --Clbb to furnish publicity, ,:-egiatration, slide projectors, club tents. Program: Various clu'o :ne111bers showed their --:Instructors receive ,25 per student. elides bei'ore a11d· a.ft.er thu bus.i.11ese -Lectures will be held each. Thursday- m<:.Gtlr.g. ~lidos ranged tram vi~ws or the from S-7:30 p.m. · Matterhorn to beautiful cr1stal tor:.i... tiona --CouPse to ce given in the i)pring o£ in cavea. ~b Ounnintr' s sliaes were 1970. especial~ beautiful.

Motion by 1ee· aest, aecx,oded by ~n Business: Johnson: 11'l'he Bodl.ps will sponsor a "10 week cc :ll'se" in .liaaic *ountain­ Tnaaurer•s •'eport: $1,.345.87 in t.'1.e eering to be aeld in t,ne spr:.ng of 6ank. 1970 and to be taught by John Pollock, Harmon Jones and Haaz Zogh for members. Activities: See t:,e August Ec.10. The only'. 'rhis resolution is subject to Club reports auccess.tul cli.'l!bs of Olympus, modification by the aew executiw board Baker, Rainier--See past Echo's. prior. to Octooer 31, 1969.• Future Progrus: Septemoer: Keith Ounnard Motion was ca1-ried unani:nousq. will a:.1.0w sl:lc ea on a rucent climulng expedition in Peru. October: Ken Jones Note: The coordinator is John Pollock, will show slides on a first ascent rout.a phone Dl_2-40l0. of Mt. McKinley (Alaska)• 2. 1970 &idget--'lbe budget was discussed Mamberahi.p: 116 members at present anq approved b-J the executive and will I be submitted b:, t:1e treasurer, C:1Brlie Hut Reportz • 8.on Mayo needs, people to help Brown • bLii clean ti1e place up.

.3. 1969-70 0fi'icers--A. nominat:.ng commi~tee Revised ay..:r.ws: It was ·pl'oposcd by Lee was formed incluclint. .l10n .iting (c:iaiman), West and seconded by Dennis riendrickson &>n Johnson, and lee :.eat. The committee •a that the club adopt the revised ijy-taws. shte will be p1·esented at tf1e Joptemoer Motion ca1·ried (21 :r.e.,:bt::rs i)• c,;;~a1t) • n1c:etinf!• .te: Sctcretar1 should c:ieck with Bob Mirror Lake., over the ridge to the north. ~~oraasli if this is a quorum. This :i.s sup.}osed to be cross-countr.Y, out a steep, wall-worn trail leads over the New .Business: rid~e and ends at the head of the lovely hanging valley containing Mirror 1&.lce. Secretary- is leaving t':le company and tbe country due to a recent layoff. A .f.ew hundred feet celow t:1e 1·idge on the corth side, was a wond~rful liv~le basin Ttie possibility ot tne .aoeilps ot:t'ering dominated by Alpine larches &:aid linger:l.ng a climbing course in 1970 was discussed. snowi'ields and &11rrounded by jagied .f'air7land-type spil•es.

h ~bit~~s ~ was p~~ed .ne~t w_ith ACTIVITIES our herd bopj.ng f.o reach the can1pspot.s on the east side 01' the Che 1an .rlountain Saturdq, September 20th_. crest under Cardinal Peak. t stiff hike

I over strange Milham Pass, then 2 miles steep Class 4 .Rock Climb with exposure. down t.1e SnowbrushT Creek tra:J.l attained Bring runners, carabiners, brake bar, a supposed crossing or the creek, which hard hat and· l rope for every two did not exist. 'l'ime was short, so this climbers. daa:1Sd any· hopos ot reaching the , proposed camp. A: laisnrel.y t:i.11e was l-1eet leader at end of Alpental road at spent obtaining pictures of the views on 7 a.m. (start at Snow .i'..ake Trail}. the west side of Milham Pass, w:1ich included Cardinal, ..:m~rald., Pyramid T-eader: Ian McCarty, LA. 3-S606 or and Saska Peaks, .Bprealis ~idge and the JJ-8680. Entiat R.ange--also nuurous deer. 'then l"IIIIWWllllillllllllllllllllllllllA~II• back to J!Gerald :Park for tho t!·iird night in a row, w:1ich was s1,ent in solitude, T.tUP ~aTS except for a mouse w·1 ic h seemed to enjoy running across fore:1eads, upper lips1 etc. Emer,.ld Park-Hilbam Pass, July L-71 The fourtn da:,• dawned clear--more Here was a wonderful hike into the high pictures. 'i'hen cio1'n 8 mil.us tc J..Uceme meadow country of t.'le Chelan Mountains. and a leisu;."81.y cruise on 11 Lady-ot'-t~e­ Lake II back to Chelan. On Jut, 4, a C!lelan-based neat plane set down a lone hiker en the East S::ore For those new to mountain travel, ·here of Domke Lake w:iere t!1e 6-mile hike to are the 10 essentials as applit:d to the .l::merald Park began. "After 4 miles of above trip: dry, hot trudging, the country began l. Camera and lens. 2. Film. 3. ktra opening up SDd finally the quiet beauty c&.'llt'ras and lenses. 4. .lilxtra film. of &uerald Park was attained. An $. Tripod. 6 • .Extra i'illll. 7. Light idyllic scene unfolded, with classic trees meter. • B. Extra film.· 9. Cabla fra."Ding tht: lush green of &aerald .l'ark, release. 10. E'.llercency film. and jaf;;t;ed, snow-flecked peaks towering --Bob Gunning 3,000 feet above the meacows. Camp wae made at th':l lo~.;er edge of the Pa.rk. Mount Chiwawa1 ·.July 26-28: ; fhe next morning dawned cloudy, out a A. party or 1\ur le1't t.l1e end of the :->helps decision was ::-i:,tie (by the narrnw >:!argin Creek "oad at 10 a.m. July' 26th and ,.f one· vtite) to take a side trip to started up the .Phelps Creek trail. An easy S-mile hike to lush· Spider res:', stop on t:i a crest or Phelps kicige. :t-feadow gave us a first glimpse of our From t11ere, began the steep descent down hig!t route toHard .i:fount C11iwawa, A steep , a S.Lcie valley lead_ng to P.1elps LJ..:."eek. trail winding from th~ upper meadow ·£he route all alone th"e 1)}].elps 11.idge brought us to the toe of Spider Gluclet. trail is spotty and the trail was ~asy. snow was uscended 800 feet to the c ntinually' i>elng lost, tht:n re1~ained. Olscier 1 s Head (7,0S0 1) w.ere fabulous A.bOllt hal£wq clown, we ca."De across an · views of the 4'man Lake-Cl011dy !'ass unbelievably' beautiful meadow, dotted country greeted us. A se1·ies of s:1ort, with rocks and al9ine larch, with a moss­ steep snowfields and rock outcroppings lined stremn flc:wing through, am.i numerous , below ittSd Mountain were ascended to the perfect flat spots for campin,.. All th.is crest of the Phelps Ci-eek--Chiwawa River was topped ort witt1 a mangif.'icent view of the divide. fhe· party stumbled, exhausted Entiat Range across i·helps Creek Valley. intQ a rocky ca:up at 7,Sao feet (only sno~• A steep downhill blast t~1rough cruddy dzy for water) at 9:30 p.111. T~;ia was forest brought us to l?helps C1•ef.ik. .l cc:npensated £or b;y the viMfS of Glacier little searc.1inc tumed up a downed tree Peak and the 9,000 foot peaks of the w!l.ic?1 provided an easy crosoin6 of the Entiat Range. 1':1r-:-1e tired diners creek, leaving a 3-lllile walk i.iack tt> the suggested an abbreviated supper, which car. was appreciated by one tired cook. The party: Don .Meltvedt, Jon Butterfield, On Sb.nday, the ;>&rtlr dropped down •bout 3reg Otte~an and itob Gunning. 9CO feet into the Chiwawa River headwaters from where an easy traverse across Copper Lake, August l6-17: meadows, slabs and sparkling streams brcught us int a delightful campsite 11!!.e Vernen, · at 6,900feet under ti1e south buttress of Mount ..;hiwawa. This hike ber~an at th~t lirail t!v,t leads to Hannagan Pass. Satu~'Cla:, was cool arid We aropµed our heavy packs set up camp, then t..he skios were clear. Onco c.:,Ei pass is crossed the buttress and cli."rJbed snow. reached, th~ trail drops •ome coo feet an;! loose rock to the 8,4S9 foot summit befo1·e branc!l ing 01'1' into the Copper of Mount Chiwawa. 1'he ascent was class Mountain lookout trail. 'lbe ma:.n trail goes six (with the decimal point moved one place to u.s. Cabin and Whatcom Pas~. As the to the left). ·rho views, as expected, trail gains t!te top of t!te ric.if:e, tremendous were marvelous, and descriptions would be views or ift. duth, Mt. ~huksan, 1.:t. too involved to relate here. Challenger and }.t • .Baker are s, en and it staggers the st1t":ses. Th,3 high point of the An early start was made on Monda7, and trip was Copper Hountain lookout at 6,260 another easy traverse brought us to the feet. .From t!iere, r.he trail d1·c:> ed to upper ead ot the old mining road on the Copper Lake (h, 900 1 ) in a distance of east side of the river. A 3/4 mile walk one mile. The lake itself is Q.l!i te sr.1a ll down this monstrosity brought us to a but fish were hittint; ev1.ryw:1ere. Un­ shi~ep-herders I camp--IUI' :f'he Basque fortunatei,., nobody had tackle. ihe next s!"Jeepmen, in their broken English, gave morning, the trip out began at ~=30 and us1valuable advice on where to pick uµ so:nehow, t~e sky was even :no J:'8 c lea.r t:1an t!1e faint Phelps Ric.i~e trail. '-'~1ortly on Saturd8¥ and t!l.e mountains even more after gaining the trail, we came across beautiful. hul!ldreds or s:1r!ep grazi.ng the hii;h me11dow. J!:ver try hiking without All in all, t!'lis is surely one ol' the in=1aling? It aln 't easyJ A. lc.ng f .. nest ridge hikes anywhere. traverse followed b/ a tiptoe up steep meadows, br~uEht us to a v~r-y pl~asant Party members were Jany Hillis, Pat There is m 1'1,1' like a Copper Mountain Hillis, Roger Stewart, Linda Stewart fl,y. !ai can t kill them. They- just and Bob Brown. drop off your am, a:ulke the111se l vea a couple oi' timaa, la, six million egga and Har Versions regroup their kids to attack aga:n.

.l trip into Copper Lake is not trip 1n The last mile out is ai:1111.ar to tbe lltb · wfi1ch to break in a n·aw pair of boots. mile in, i.e., int•'.:l'lllinable. It• a great it It is, howewr, a t:ood trip if' ,1011 plan you want to die in the mountains, but tor to wear out a pair of boots, a set of t?lose who onl,y have visions .of ail alka teat, a can of f'17 sp~, your patience seltzer, t:1t.t last mile is your link with and your mind. insanity.

'l'he tra:i.l, .obviously laid out by an A hike to ~oppar Lake anyone? Frank}¥, under-water basket iJaaver in ·the acute t ..iere 'e somet.'1mi· to be saici for rocking at.ates.of alcoholism, ia•an amazing 11 chair t.ravel--and Copper Luke is itJ mile• t:.i1at alternate between going at.night up and straight down. Notbing Glacier.Peak, august 23-24: is' IIC' encouraging ~a clillbiDf: several thousand feet to a p- and having to Most ot the group drove to the erxi of the diop several t~ousand feat to a meadow White vhuck road Fric!ay. Sa.turda,y morning, be low t:-iat shouldn I t be tt1 ere anyw&¥, and the group left :tor the .Pu.'ltice Creek then slowly oli:nbing the first several campsite in bits and pieces. On the way- in, thousand feet again until J011 level o£f a hive ·or bees got five clblbers, two of on a rid:·e. (WelJ,, all right-=-...... ,be wbom had severe reactions ana bod to return it wasn't several thousand feet, but a to arlington tor meciical aid. foot I s a foot w~19n y-ou I re carrying a tull pack.) Sunday raorning the trii,, oe~.an· at 3•4S and went quite well. i'be route was .. up ~ithin the first mile, the blisters bad a SOO toot CQuloir behind ?u.mice Creek. a_.peared; within the second mile, the This gained the top of the rid;e leading to blisters bad blisters,; and witain the the ?tarmigan Glacier• . Dawn was just third mile, _tile blisters.' olistera ware beginning to break aa t~e ten climbers prcpagating the Faith. r;,- the fourth mile, moved onto the glac~er. i'be ridge leading those new b- ots were replaced with an old to t!.o Rabbit Eara was bare rock and pwaice wore out pair o!' tennis s!ioes, and b;r all the wq down to tbt:i pass bo low iCenned7 t~e fifth roile, the tennis shoes had Peak. The lower halt was ai,oided by .b li,!tera. sta,ins down on t !10 glacier but bard ice i'orcad the route onto the :z·ock. '!be I bave no 111emor,y of t!le a1xt.b1 seventh, ice extended to the rabbi r. ears sc tzu. route eigtith, ninth or tenth miles, but the went around the baae on t~m. and through la~t m.ile, ~ich actually consisted of t.'le pass. i'be approach to. the S3!11it dome l, 1101 000 teat, makes you glad for such alee baa large patc:1es of ice but someone bad prindtive practices as su~ida. chopped a nice set or steps. "'!10 first rope reached the sJ.mr.,it ii.t 10. At The trip out vas oven bette.r. % then, 11:lS, the eu:mnit was lr.ft to t.;ree youths t'.ae blisters bed killed t!1e tennis shoes who were ca!!piag there !or li!10 night. ·the and we buried t!iem on Copper ►.ountain lookout. weather vaa deteriorating ra~iul.y and ?artB (They- were the only- 1!18:nbers of the party. of the descent wer<. :.18.de in fog. Base camp · to ge Ii a decent burial.) But even better, was reached at 4 and everyone bt11~au packing we n:,w had .flies. II you want to know i'or the nine :1il lo 111lce out. w:..at_ a cess pool feels like, take that hi"

He :dlielled at length on piail.lution -and indicated tnat pe.- miasiwness or past years vould surely ha'V8 to come to an end-• aoon--before conditions ba'V9 reached ~,e point of no return. For example, industrial planta may have to be :forced to stm...1. down, it they cannot af.tord to control pollution. One hopeful note: Lake waa:-dngton will aoon be back to v:1at it was like in the l940s.

The.governor's apeeoh was followed by a movi·e on the Georgia coastal marsh­ land and by a sHde S~lOW. !he 1'D1'k reqa1red tor the ~ ta_ start~ t.o jell, ao ,,e ca plan CD a parbJ-wos· put, velk tmd, 8epta,w 21-28. !Id.a ta the~ AutUllll Leet 1eet,:lwl tu., ao :t'aD can 'be bad for all. Tbe plan vUl

1DD111de the tol.1.oldnp

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Ji. Saturdlf' ffadDg at the but for gm_.al pioup JJU"t7. (Beer, pop, aid ret.rvta .... w:ll.l 'blr proridad) .s. !o bedtff

6. Vm.1cl 11 OD Sandq, v.lll atarb about 10100 .... and 11> aacol'd1ng t.o

llllat OD 'be dme

?. Saae 'lllq prater to ollJ■b, Inda, 1q araam, :tiah or - tba Bit.ell.

Satardaiir ad SmJda.r ~ or Pr!dair 1111d ~ ~-

Leatliiliw-th bu a lot ot act1Tlt1ea ~ tor tb:la we1c llld. So be nre

to 'br:bJg .JOUI" Oalfffl• ad valJdzw Bboeee 8cllle pre-p].amdng 1a goiDg to

'be ~. ao pleue 'ft>lunteerl 117?7 Ccataot Im Hqo, Ill 1'-S719 bJ' Tlmrllciq, Septemer 2S, 1969-in order t.o Ntillate maber of people &Oinc• BOBAUS 1970 SUQGl!S'l'BD CANDIDATES ,, CGMMITTD CBAIRMD PRF.S V.P. SIC!' TR.ES A.ct.1~ ,...... ___ pl NAME T.J.IID /iPm Bcho Bllt Cont18l • R-.rk,I =

Neale Hllggina X - ~ ... , ' I Daft Hamb]1' X -3 . -

• I I Ted Schotten X - . ,. I ., Ron Jolmaon' X

.. 1, : Pollack X Jolm .. ..,. , . - ... I, ., . :, . ... ~rrr 1111ll11 I. . - .. . - -· ·. .,, : ,( .. l)aTe Plwaar I - - . .. ,. - , : -... ., Ipan pe1;erllCll X ... ·-· .-.. - . ' - .. ·...·•·· X Rq Eube ...... -. .,

I

I J .. Bill Laavans , . ·_; .. .;,.. . ' - Dick Peterean !, X ~ ...' J.' ... : ·•'-· .. -<·~ ... ' ' : ... .,...... : ' .• •· l)Vight i l ' ' Baker - I, !~.' - ·. - ..,; I, 1, 11 I•

. - - . -

. - ~ BOEING EMPLC>YEES ALPINE SOCIETY, INC.

Officers and Directors Committee Chairman President W. J. H. West 342-0224 Activities R. R. Johnson 655-3409 Vice President J. Hillis 655-5941 Programs D.Plummer 773-2832 Secretary R. A. Kube 342-5698 Membership T. Schotten 237-9504 Treasurer D. W. Peterson 655-2298 Conservation D. Hendrickson 655-0183 Past President D. C. Baker 655-0688 Echo Editor C. N. Huggins 655-8547 &Hut

OCTOBER MONTHLY MEETING

Thursday, October 2, 1969, 7:30 pm.

B.S.R.L. Math Seminar Room

MT. McKINLEY

In July this year, a first ascent was made on Catacomb Ridge and the east ridge of Mt. McKinley (20,370') in Alaska. The speaker, Ken Jones and a party of six made this ascent, and he will be giving the first general showing of slides and account of this climb.

NOVEMBER MONTHLY MEETING

Thursday, November, 1969, 7:30 pm.

EVEREST

A one hour film of the American ascent of Everest in 1963. **************************************** We have contracted with some excellent instruc­ tors, John Pollock, Hans Zogg, and Harmon Jones PERSONAL to teach a basic mountaineering course next year. **************************************** This is a change in former club policy to offer climbing instruction. I believe this will be a popular Stanley Thomas, son of club member Gordon course. Thomas, died after an accident in the Snoqualmie We have had consistently good Echo newsletters Pass area. with some new reporting customs established such We offer our sincere sympathy to Gordon and as including the secretary's minutes, names and his family. phone numbers of officers and committee chair­ men. Trip notices and reports were improved and **************************************** became more numerous. SPECIAL Our membership list is now computerized which keeps it current and simplifies addressing our **************************************** mailings. Taken as a whole, the above accomplishments RETIRING PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE add up to a substantial change in the club which should be reflected by increases in membership During the past year, it has been my pleasure during the next year or two. Although some of and honor to serve as an officer of Boealps. I think these changes were my personal goals at the most of you will agree that we have enjoyed a beginning of or during the year, they are accom­ relatively good year. plished facts only because of the strong support We have had a fine selection of regular and from all the officers, committee chairmen, and special programs through efforts of Lee West and members who worked with me. I want to per­ his committee. We have had a good variety of sonally thank all of you who contributed so much winter and summer weekend activities. These of your time and energy to the club during the past included club sponsored climbs of all the Washing­ year. I plan to continue according to the By-laws as ton major glacier mountains as well as many a Director for the next year. Also, I have agreed to privately organized climbs of club members. How­ chair the Hut Committee to help establish the Hut ever, I would like to see the club sponsor each year as a success during its first year of operation. one or two I-week outings and an expedition. We have a strong new group of officers and We have completely revised the by-laws to committee chairmen, so next year should see even provide an up-to-date and stronger framework for more progress. I look forward to another enjoyable more effective club management. Although dues year of climbing and club activities with all of you were increased last year, we also requested and as fellow mountaineers in the Boealps. received increased company support funds. After a year of site searching, letters to property owners, Dwight Baker and planning, we acquired the Leavenworth hut on a five year lease. Club support for the renovation work has been good and is building up. This should be a popular and profitable club activity within a **************************************** year. If it is successful, I believe the club should MEETING MINUTES consider as long range objectives a permanent facility· at Leavenworth and one or two additional **************************************** huts at other sites in the state. We are one of only a very few company GENERAL MEETING recreation clubs to be recommended by the Recre­ September 4, 1969 ation Council Finance Committee for a substantial increase (30 percent) over last year's support from I. Next month's program will be a slide show by the company. This is primarily due to our success Ken Jones of a new route on Mt. McKinley-it in acquiring the hut and our positive long range should be excellent. program to provide more recreation benefits for 2. Treasurer's Report: (Given by Dwight Baker for members. Charley Brown who is in Europe.) $935 in the We have firmly established mountaineering type bank. Recent expenditures have been made for ski instruction as a regular club activity through hardware for the Hut. discussion of our conflict with the Skibacs, and 3. Membership Report: 115 paid members; 3 negotiation with approval of the Recreation Unit. honorary members

2 4. Hut Report: Shutters have been nailed over **************************************** reglassed windows temporarily. Electrical hookup LEAVENWORTH HUT should be in this weekend, and the water is working now. **************************************** Everyone is urged to help. Teams of two are ; generally required. A key is now available at the : LEAVENWORTH HUT PARTY Shelton Cafe in Leavenworth for members who September 27 and 28, 1969 need it. The key will open the Fish Hatchery gate and the front door of the Hut. Members are A working weekend has been planned for reminded that they must not lock the hatchery's September 27-28, so that the working party to lock out when replacing our lock. renovate the new hut, can also enjoy the Autumn 5. Physical conditioning classes are available, Leaf Festival in nearby Leavenworth. beginning September 15 at Mother's Park in Every weekend this month there have been small Renton. work parties at the hut doing some essential jobs to 6. H. W. Smith still has club decals for car make your visit more enjoyable during the hut­ windshields-SO cents each. warming weekend of September 27 and 28. Water 7. The annual election was then held. Those is operating, a new electrical service is installed, elected were: Lee West, President; Jerry Hillis, windows and shutters are partially in, and consider­ Vice-President; Ray Kube, Secretary; Treasurer, able cleaning has been done. We hope to make Dick Peterson. another big dent in what remains this weekend. Program: Keith Gunnar gave an excellant slide Any skill you may have, from firewood cutting a.nd show on climbing and sightseeing in Peru. hauling to painting, plumbing, carpentry, or roof patching will be welcome. We can use a chain saw EXECUTIVE MEETING or large crosscut for wood gathering if anyone can September 11, 1969 bring one-also rakes, shovels, paint brushes, carpenters' tools, depending on type work you choose. Narrative Report of last year's activities-The report will be written this year, as last, by Ron Come over Friday evening, Saturday morning, Johnson. Sunday morning or stay the whole weekend. The Treasurer reports a balance of $935 plus misc. plan includes the following: funds on hand from checks written for minor Hut 1) Provide your own sleeping arrangement (sleep­ expenses. $535 have already been spent on Hut ing bags on floor, tent, camper, etc.). Plenty of related items. (Report per D. Baker for C. Brown) camping space is available. Respective officers-elect received club records 2) Provide your own food (lunches and dinner from the outgoing officers. D. Baker suggested the available at festival-$ I and $1.50.). need for a Club file cabinet. Dick Peterson will 3) Work will start Saturday about 7:45 AM and investigate. continue until about 9:45 AM and break for D. Baker suggested that an agressive membership families and those who want to see the village campaign be held now to raise money for the $130 parade at 10 AM. Work will continue as people coal bill for the Hut. No money is allocated for this arrive and are available Saturday until about 4 PM. on the 1969 budget, and additional money may be 4) Saturday evening at the hut for general group required to allow a favorable (aprox. $200) balance party. (Beer, pop, and refreshments will be pro­ forward to the 1970 budget. It was proposed, and vided.) passed, that a free night's lodging be given for 1970 · ·5) To bed???-Bring a tent if you want your kids if 1970 membership dues are paid before October · in bed early. 31, 1969. 6) Work on Sunday, will start about 10 AM and go An allocation of $250 has been made for the according to what can be done. Dinner meeting. Meal cost will be held between 7) Some may prefer to climb, swim, lay around, $4.75 and $5.50. The Speaker and location for the i fish or go to the village. Saturday and Sunday meeting were discussed. ' afternoon or Friday and Saturday nite. Ron Mayo submitted a list of repairs required Leavenworth has a lot of activities planned for for the Hut. this weekend, so be sure to bring your cameras and Ray Kube

3 walking shoes. See the Leavenworth Autumn Leaf **************************************** Festival program and map for route and hut ACTIVITY PROGRAM location on page7 andB: Please observe -the following courtesies when **************************************** traveling through the Fish Hatchery: October 5, 1969 a) Speed limit20 MPH. b) Gate across river must be left closed but Rampart Ridge-Lake Kachess area. Approx. 9 unlocked from 7:30 AM to 4:30 PM on Saturday mile hike (round trip) 8 miles on trail. Leave West and Sunday. side of floating bridge, Hwy. 10, at 6:00 AM. c) After 4:30 PM or before 7:30 AM sign out key Contact Bob Storaasli, 5-2415 or UL 2-9385. at Shelton's Cafe in Leavenworth. Show member­ ship card. Return key as soon as possible. October 12, 1969 d) Lock the gate with chain around both posts and the two padlocks locked hasp-in-hasp. Sperry Peak-South Fork Stillaguamish-Sultan e) After 10 PM and before 7:30 AM, do not use River divide. Details available at October meeting Fish- Hatchery Road. During these hours we are or contact Roland Amundson 743-5402. requested\ to use Cemetary Road (see map) to Complete October schedule to be announced at avoid driving close to hatchery residences. the October meeting. Contact Ron Mayo, EM 4-5719 by Thursday, If you have a hike or a climb planned and would September 25 in order to estimate number of like to share it with some of your fellow members people going. please contact Ron Johnson 5-3409. PHYSICAL FITNESS **************************************** ACTIVITY REPORT The City of Renton is again offering several free physical fitness programs. **************************************** At Recreation Hall, Mother's Park: Men­ MT. COTOPAXI, ECUADOR Physical Fitness Program Instructor, Jim· Bagett. August, 1969 Monday, Wednesday, Friday, 7 to 9:30 PM, start­ ing Monday, Sept. 15 and includes universal gym Dave Hambly and Chuck Crenchaw climbed Mt. weight exercises, jogging, volleyball, basketball. Cotopaxi (19,498') in Ecuador in August. ML Women-Fitness and grace instruction, volley­ Cotopaxi is located in the north part of the ball, basketball, Wednesdays, 8 to 10 PM. Ecuadorian Andes and is reputed to be the highest Men, Women, Children-Pre-ski exercises, active volcano in the world. The climbers reported Instructor, Denny Bresnichar, Wednesday, Friday, the mountain was ·dormant when they were there! 7 to 8 PM, Wed., October 15 through Fri., After an exhausting climb, they toured Ecuador, November 21. which included trips into the back country, visits Lets get a BOEALPS group going Mondays and to remote Indian villages and swimming in the Wednesdays. Contact Dwight Baker, 655-0688 for warm Pacific Ocean. information.

MT. BAKER

Boealp members, Norman Clark, his son Charles, -­ C0tJ5E.RVA'TIOI--I three other Boeing employees and a visitor from the East coast, successfully climbed Mt. Baker. The ascent was completed in beautiful weather. Due to SEA TILE CITY LIGHT HEARINGS illness of one strong climber, the intended campsite at the 9,000' saddle was changed to an 8,000' Soon the Seattle City Council will hold public glacier bowl which appeared to be free of crevasses hearings asking opinions about the policies of and almost out of range of the Black Butte garbage Seattle City Light. Of greatest interest to outdoor chute. The summit was reached at 10: 15 AM, and lovers will be the controversial proposal for the cool southwesterly breeze on the summit was expanding City Light's Skagit River Project. This quite a contrast to the balmy weather 500' below. would include, mainly, the raising of Ross Dam by

4 I 25 feet, coupled with the Thunder Creek Dam occurred. The testing machine used was a Tinius­ and diversion project. Olsen. The authors fully realize that most equip­ The Thunder Creek development would entail a ment failures result from dynamic, not static, dam near the junction of McCallister Creek which loading. However, this quasi-static loading will would create a reservoir about one mile long. A yield a reliable comparison among manufacturers. diversion tunnel would cut the creek's flow to The numerical values presented in the tables on almost nil (then we could rename it, say, Trickle page result from two or three items being tested. Creek, or Dry Creek). Also, a 5 to 6 mile road Although the number of specimens is small, it would be required in what is now an easily should be representative of the overall quality. accessible virgin lowland valley. This road would Carabiners were pulled apart using two 3/8-inch serve the additional purpose of making mining bars, one at either end. They were pulled until the claims in the area economically feasible. closed gate no longer worked freely. This force was The raising of Ross Dam would flood the lower recorded in the "Gate Jams" column. After closing 5 miles of Big Beaver Creek Valley, a prime the gate, the carabiner was pulled until the gate entranceway to the Picket Range in the North failed. This event was recorded as a "Gate Closed Cascades National Park. This valley contains one of Failure." After the gate broke, loading continued the last remaining stands of giant old growth cedar until the carabiner straightened out or broke in the state, as well as numerous very beautiful completely. This failure should be identical to the beaver ponds. One tree was recently measured at force necessary for the original carabiner to fail eleven feet in diameter. with the gate open. Therefore, this is labeled as a "Gate Open Failure." Seattle City Light contends that these projects Horizontal and angle pitons were placed in a will save its customers money on their electric steel vise and a 3/8-inch bar pulled the eye rates. This may be true. The savings would add up perpendicular to the blade. The vise was tightened to a maximum of a few dollars per year for an with 1/4-inch of the blade showing, after which the average householder, and certainly this is better piton was hammered the remaining distance. The than paying higher rates. However, what will be location column of data refers to whether the eye decided at the upcoming hearings is whether or not or blade failed. Since vertical pitons depend so City Light's customers consider it worth a few greatly on the placement, it was decided to pull the dollars a year to prevent the permanent loss of eye apart · similarly to the procedure used for eleven more miles of lowland wilderness valley, carabiners. Therefore, no data was obtained regard­ with the resultant decrease in quality of the unique ing the strength of the blades on vertical pitons. environment which makes Washington State such a great place to live. How do you stand? DISCUSSIONS OF THE TESTING RESULTS AND CONCLUSIONS

**************************************** Most items tested far exceed the force that the CLIMBING EQUIPMENT human body can withstand (approximately 2000 **************************************** pounds). There are two major exceptions that should be noted: 1) Pitons with attached welded FAILURE POINTS rings (the Austrian wafer ring piton and the angle piton with ring) and 2) the Recreational Equip­ By John A. Seevers & John J. Horn ment Safety Oval carabiner (a standard oval carabiner with threads cut on the gate; purchased For some time many mountaineers have in Feb. 1968). The welds in the rings varied greatly wondered about the quality among different in strength, with some samples being inadequate. manufacturers of mountaineering equipment. In an (This is not true of Cassin ring pitons which are effort to answer this question, an independent adequate.) No weakness was found with the study was undertaken by the authors. The results Recreational Equipment standard oval carabiner of this study convinced us that three commonly which compares favorably with other ovals. sold items are not safe in high-angle climbing where In the authors' opinions all items tested, except a leader fall is possible. those noted above, exceed a minimum requirement for safe climbing when properly used. METHOD OF TESTING NYLON WEBBING Specimens obtained from different manu­ By Ray Smutek (BOEALPS) facturers and distributors were placed in steel jigs that approximated mountain conditions and were Nylon webbing, in a variety of thicknesses, pulled in a quasi-static manner until destruction styles, and colors has invaded the mountaineering scene. This strong but lightweight material has many applications, not only for highly technical rock work, but also for basic mountaineering. However, as the use of this material increased, so did questions concerning its use, and tests carried out for BOEALPS using Company equipment, provided the answers. Members are reminded that copies of the report 'The Strength Properties of Webbing and Sling Rope for Mountaineering Use' are available free. Contact the secretary, R. A. Kube, 654-5692.

**************************************** MEMBERSHIP ****************************************

1970 MEMBERSHIP

The Board decided to start next year's member­ ship campaign earlier this year and offer some incentives for early sign-up to keep the treasury healthy until we receive next year's company contribution. Present members ( 1969 dues paid) will get credit for one free night lodging at the Leavenworth Hut if they pay 1970 dues by November 30, this year. Prospective new members who join from Sep­ tember I, I 969, will become members from the time they join through calendar year 1970 and will receive remaining Echos this year. Contact Ted Scholten, Membership Chairman, 237-9504.

**************************************** EQUIPMENT FOR SALE ****************************************

It has been suggested that members may have mountaineering equipment for sale, and that the Echo could be used as a 'paper market place.' Anyone with equipment for sale should send details to the editor, C. N. Huggins, 9-7 800, M/S 49-21.

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FlsH HATcttE:AY LOCI(

7 Jrngram Sixth Annual Washington State Autumn i4raf 1JTrstiual

~aturda_y, Septen1ber 27, 1969

"FUN PARADE" 10 a.m. -- Downtown ARTSHOW 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. ·-- Downtown City Park (Leavenworth Chamber of Commerce) FLEA MARKET 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. - Motteler Bldg., Downtown • "THE FLOWER POT" 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. - Grange Hall (Cascade Garden Club) HOBBY AND CRAFT SHOW 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. - CYO Hall CHICKEN NOODLE DINNER 11 :30 a.m. - Grange Hall Dining Room Adults $1.50 Children $1.00 FRENCH DIP LUNCHEON 12 noon to 6 p.m. - Upper City Park ( Leavenworth Firemen) Adults $1.50 Children $1.50 "MUSIC IN THE PARK" Afternoon - Downtown PONY RACING 1 :30 p.m. to 3:00 p.m. - Old Football Field (Leavenworth Lions Club) Adults $1.00 High School Students and Children 50c HOOTENANY 8 p.m. - Junior High Gymnasium (V.F.W. Auxiliary) General Admission 50c

FOOD CONCESSION BOOTHS - Downtown

• Open from 1 p.m. to 5 p.m. , September 29th through October 3rd

Sunday, September 28, 1969

MASS 9:30 a.m. -·St.Joseph's Catholic Church 11: 15 a.m. - CYO Camp Field DIVINE WORSHIP 11 a.m. - All Protestant Churches ARTSHOW 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. - Downtown City Park {Leavenworth Chamber of Commerce) FLEA MARKET 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. - Motteler Bldg., Downtown "THE FLOWER POT" 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. - Grange Hall (Cascade Garden Club) HOBBY AND CRAFT SHOW 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. - CYO Hall "MUSIC IN THE PARK" Afternoon - Downtown PONY RACING 1 :30 p.m. to 3:00 p.m. - Old Football Field (Leavenworth Lions Club) Adults $1.00 High School Students and Children 50c FOOD CONCESSION BOOTHS - Downtown

Open from 1 p.m. to 5 p.m., Septemba- 29th through October 3rd

8 ~,, ,~9;:-, Fl 11 ll i'l .~ V.,"'' '/\\ )j i,_:,,: /,?)',,ti ti'fj '. fa i{ u HL, ''-,,<: t'·",· ··i\. 17:J IN CLlfvlBUNG EQUIPMENT by John A. Seevers anJ John J. Horn

CARABINER TESTS Cassin Long lforizontal ,3~,:_."I 4900 ,L 200 Blade broke al eye Gale J~ms Gate Closed Gale Open Medium Horizontal 1,21< ") 4EOO ± JOO Eye broke ilbs.l failure ~aili11c !dtr.lil1cat1or: (!us.·, \lbs.} Remarks Long Thie~ Tapered ;4"1 5000 .+. 300 Eye I.Jrnke Med1un1 Thick TJpered :2 ,.'1") 5150 J, JOO [ye lirnke OVAL CA!~ABCfU.RS Shon Th!d. TapPred ,?") 59~0 :!: 100 Fyt• broke Dnnnor Mounloin so -L 75 312'.i ,t ?5 lfiSO Also taller! C(,ql. dJMCJ A-C Shi Hui ov~I Longwarc Blide broke at eye; One Cl,11 160 cl 10 3100 :-l: 146~ .+ 10 Long Taper 4750 tested r1gcr 110 :1 2725 J JS9rl 15 7400 J..c 200 Ula.II' liroile al eye llnFe Ov,11 Steel 90 )I}()(\ lO'.iO Ono \estc1! [i(•C· ~-~lki:,,,1 l ,;~1p. 720 :'(• v:,0 ' .10 I lD'J 30 Other Manufacturers Ai1

OTBE:R CM--tAl>IN!:R5 Simond [l),1de ~/32 S!Od' 6000 Pulled out of jic: One t~s!ed Eye 1Hoke: "/i('W CliouinMd 300 :i (() 58/JO _!: 1:J'.l 26!.oO 5C Simond Blade 1/8 s\r,Lk i'WO One tested !. tye "Old"' Cltouin~•d 300 rnii"1 cl: ~•ll nn:1 j(l(J S1mond lllal1c 3/32 sloe~ 4J011 '.lOtJ hrn!-..c Salrwi1 r,IJO .J !W !.o'.-'J!) 1:-·, ,;i ?'., ?~ Peck {;h,1n,wl St;nnk,s )OJU :1..: JOO [yl· t11oke Sll-c,I 3/32 ~lock Bon,,it1 95 J_ !.o WOD L 200 21n Ci1ssin Si~r,darJ 3~0 :.!. WO .1(,l'Q -.l_ 2QO ll/1J :L ]5" Steel all0y ANGLE riTOIIS Ca;;:,in l 0t\..11,1. J~,O _-! '.-1,(IG !)'j(_\ ?2'.JO ~(j Steel nllcy Chouinard CJ~,i11 I~•:'.(' ]/_;() " l'J'.,O \',ii ii,/', !?', Str,rl .~n~y ti800 20U Dul nn1 1>1~~k; Pull~d Clmn11( \';inad1o1m 210 1)(:0 4SOO One lcsti:!d out r,r jic Standard 8200 J 200 [yr, broke lllpC re~; '.-1~d JOO 3-1!.oO mo One tr,tcd Ji/1" Ancic 9700 J 300 ty,: b1ok(' Hnrc l:1:~,i-1'. :,tfcl j(J') w,o 19'.iJ One tt>l~1! 1 /," /,n;:lc Over IOYJ,J !lid not l,1c;1~: hst terminated lr1 Ihm 1700 ;!--. 20ll l'itc,n pulled uut o! jl '., 1 lLSTfl.\ O.'I ~'f.kTICAL did not !,r~ak Cassi11 rnow; l\n1tc ll!~dt! Thick (,400 :j_ !CD [l!.1dr l!wkc at 1'J°~ Lone Vcit:c~I (4 \/ ") 6000 J: 7CO Horil'.•!ilal long 111ed111rn /600 J 20[1 Piton pullc1! 01,t o[ jig; Mcditim Verticil (2/,' 4300 J.: 200 dirl 0,,1 t,rc~k Gerry 34~0 cJ JOO CI\H PITON$ WIYH RINGS t,'111dc: J JO 7100 I JOO [ye tnokc Cassin Hing Lnng (3\~,"J 37~0 .! 150 Rmg broke {not at w~ld) Model 120 710:J J: 300 lye I.Jrnke Cas~in Fini; Medium (2\h' ~7(1[) J_, 1(10 fling brof.e /nat ~, wetdJ Model 125 9900 :t 100 [yr hiok(• Cassin f-1n2 St,Jrt ,.J'.~-"J 3400 :! ,:oo Rin~ hrol,e ,';i~t al v12ld) !\1odd LO 10.100 .! IOO [y~ brckr: /11,•,f11~n \'/,ifi:-1 w1ln HIil£ 3400 1200 Ring broke (at weld) 1:0Jel HO Over I! .rJrJO Did ncl hiea~: AnP,le f'ilon with Rinr. 2JOO l ~00 Ring 1.J1oke ;~I weld J Tcsl krminat~rl Mn~d I ~O o,cr l !.ODO Did nol hrcaf.: CRACK TACHS. lest ternunale!.I CMI f,loclel n 1/V nylon webbini; tJrol;r: Ml•dtl J'.,C 0\'CI 1] ,1!(•0 Did nut hrca~., T:,ck ~ha,<1~d no sipn of l~st [Clll'inJleiJ /Jending

9 BOEING EMPLOYEES ALPINE SOCIETY, INC.

Officers and Directors Committee Chairmen President W. J. H. West 342-0224 Activities R. R. Johnson 655-1678 Vice President J. Hillis 655-5941 Programs D. Plummer 773-2832 Secretary D. Hambly 342-5232 Membership T. Schotten 237-9504 Treasurer R. W. Peterson 655-2298 Conservation D. Hendrickson 655-01'83 Past President D. C. Baker 655-0688 Echo Editor C. N. Huggins 655-8547 & Hut

NOVEMBER MONTHLY MEETING

Thursday, November 6, 1969, 7:30 p.m.

Plant II Engineering Theater

EVEREST

A one-hour color film of the American ascent of Everest in I 963. This excellent film covers the early training and conditioning on Mt. Rainier, the establishment of the camps on Everest, and the summit climb. Narrative by Orson Welles.

DECEMBER BANQUET

Friday, December I 2, 1969

Washington Athletic Club

Reserve this date. Guest speaker will be Peter K. Schoening, member of the 1966 American Antarctic Mountaineering Expedition, led by Nick Clinch. We will have his account of this successful expedition and the many first ascents in the Antarctic Sentinel Range. BOFALP CALENDAR MEETING MINUTES

Nov 6 Film "Americans on Everest" EXECUTIVE MEETING Plant II Theatre. 16 October 69 Nov 9 Traverse. Denny Mt. to Chair Peak. MONTHLY MEETINGS: November meeting would be held at the Plant II Lecture Nov 15 AAC Cascade Section Dinner. Theatre, 2-25 Building, at 7:30 PM. Doubletree Inn, South Center. Main feature would be the film, Nov 15-16 Leavenworth Hut. Werking "Jl.mericans on Everest," narrated by weekend, party, hike. Orson v.elles. There will be no monthly meeting for December because of Nov 16 Hike. Mt. Dickerman .,,..-·, the annual dinner • Nov 23 Climb. Pinnacle Peak. ANNUAL DINNER: To be held on Saturday, 12 Dec at the Washington Athletic Club, Nov 27-30 Hike. North Wilderness 7 PM no-host cocktails, 8 PM dinner. Beach, 01:ympic Park. Cost would be approximately $5. Guest Nov 28 Snowshoe trip. speaker will be Pete Schoening on the Snoqualmie Pass. American Antarctic Expedition. Guests would include the Presidents and their Nov 28-29 Mountain Rescue Conference. wives of the AAC, the mountaineers, the Washington Plaza hotel. MRC and members of Pete Schoening's Physical fitness classes. family. Recreation Hall, Renton. TREASURBR' S REPORT: Balance in account Monday, Wednesday & Friday. of $774.05, hut expenses so far $652. ACTIVITIES: Numerous proposals Dec 12 Banquet - Washington discussed for next year. No firm plans Athletic Club. made. Beach hike, Sea Stack climbing on Thanksgiving weekend, week trip to Selkirks in 1970. MEMBERSHil': 120. Chly a few EDITORIAL subscriptions for 1970 had been received, though not due until 1 Jan 70. To get more money coming in, a reminder would ·be mailed to all present CONSERVATION, the keeping of a thing in members and a package containing a safe or entire state. If me.mbers information on the club and its support conservation and want to make activities to prospective members. a stand against loss of natural LEAVENWORTH HUT: A work party weekend enYironment, read the disturbing news was planned for Nov to get the hut in in the Conservation section of this shape for the winter. The hut conmittee paper, and write immediately to state had proposed fees and rules for hut use, your opinion and objections, to be published later. Fees and rules particularly on the urgent supject of briefly discussed as well as items to Trail Vehicle Regulations. be purchased.

2 Electricity still not installed, rirht gate will be closed and appear locked, of way across the CYO Camp required for hut just go through and close again. installation of poles. A further $?00 Any other time, J.ncluding Friday night, for hut, expenses was reqnested and get key from n Hut committee member or granted. from Shelton's Cafe in Leavenworth, and Jock padlocks tefcther again after !t was agreed to accept the offer of a passing through. See diagram on map. paper by Bill Kohler, a geologist, on 3) Bring your own sleeping bag and pad. the weathering of rock and its effect ),) Bring your own food, dishes and on climbing. stove. The double oven range will be Dwight Baker volunteered to inv

3 your fees. Also, an arrangement will be OVERCOAT & LITTLE BIG CHIEF made for paying at the hut. ~Aptember 69 HU'f COM-!ITTEE Boe>1lp members, Clyde Lince (leader) Dwight Baker, Chdrman EX ?- 3203 Russel1 Post, ;;nd four guests: Mike Boeing ext. 5-0688 ws 59-1,8 E-869i, Lince, Bob and Ben Pfieffer and Steve Bob Brmm UL h-3301 Ludeman successfully climbed Overcoat Boeing ext. 7-8572 Ws 7L-2J 6-2Lli5 Peak ( 7 ,l100) and Little Big Chief Peak ·Charles Brown LA 2-031li (7,200). Due to snow and no visibility, F..M 2-L700 the third c1i.mbing d>1y of a 5-dfly outing Ron Mayo EM l,-5719 was used to reach the dry comforts o.f Boeing ext. 5-1856 Ws IW-82 6-8372 of their cars which were 8 milete from Al Mow:i.weer BA 8-0938 base cmnp. Dutch Miller Gap area has Boeing ext. 5-350u M/S 26-76 6-78h3 everything: Rock, hard sno1e, gJ ad ers Russel Post TU S-2572 and brush! A fine area for a 7-day Boeing ext. 2-2728 M/S OA-62 E-5430 outing. Erhard WI chert CH ii-5387 Boeing ext. 5-6772 Ws LJ-22 6-8760 RAMPART RTffiE 5 October 69 HU'f FURNITURE We are now ready to accept donations of This 5-mile walk in the Snoqualmi,; >1rea usable furniture and appliances. 1'hA past Rachel and Rampart Lakes is Hut Committee wi.11 decide whether we especially pleasant and colorful durfog can use it after inspection. We would Autumn. For the trip, the sky was prefer to do without for a while rather cle>1r and the temperature mild. The than clutter the place up like the Boealp party m>1de the trip in a ·Goodwill Sales floor. But if you have leisurely 7 1/2 hours along the Rachel something useful and reasonably Lake trail which follows Box Canyon attractive or will sell something Creek. They met a party on the summit •cheap, or if you know of any bargains, that had climbed throurh the tL,ibe,r from let a committee member know. We need Rocky Run Camp Ground off Highwar 10. chairs, tables, benches, another Party members were: Winston Hall, Dav,, electric range. Let us know what you Hambly, Clyde Joerg, Ron John.son, Bob have. Storaasli.

F/ LL TN YOSF.J1ITE Octobrer 69 ACTIVITY REPORT Iain Linn with a smGll party wont to the 11 Valley11 in October for a week's climbing. Much climbing and little CHAIR PEAK drinking was done -- an unusu;il state 18 September 69 of affairs. The more notnble climbs done were the Royal Arches, WBshington 'KP.n McCarty led a small part:r, Paul Column Direct, the South Face of North Neff and Ken Varcoe to ~limb Chair Dome, the South Face of Upper Catherin,] Peak. The climb was enjoyable despite Spire, 2nd fir!a}Jy, the ber.t of the poor weather conditions. Due to heavy week, thP. E-Jst Eutt.ress of' El Copitan. rain, the climb was abandonAd at noon. On the descent of Upper ,-:athe(lrel 0pirr--! ~ the two pFirtic:5.. p.:jnts, as a rec.iult cf c>1reful pla.nni.nc, contri.ved to sp,,nd the night on a ledge. Of course they had MOUNTAINEERING COURSES no food, water or extra clotning, and no flashl:i.ght, and now know exactly The BOEI\LPS :is now a me.mber of the how long 12 hours are. Association of Mountaine,ering Courses, which was organi7.ed Jast year by John LAKE EILEEN Pollock, Jim Mitchen and others who are invo]ved in mountaineering courses. The 11 and 12 October 69 annual conference, chaired by ,Jim Mitchell, was held at Longmire on 12 and Fritz Cerny, Bob and JjJn Toms and Ron 13 Oct and was attended by Dwight Baker :Howlett and I started up the LaKe who represented Boealps. There were Ethel trail at Merr:i.tt at 6 AM in fine about 60 people representing about weather and the snow line was 25 clubs and courses. F..ach organization encountered at L,000 feet which slowed or instructor described the basic us do,m. We climbed the ridge on the climbing course of his organization on south side of Ethel and dropped down to Saturday. Doctor Gene Mason gave a very Lake Eileen, arriving at 11 AM. We interesting t;,.lk on high altitude made camp on snow and the two boys, medicine advances. The evening ,ras 8 and 12 years, began to fish. Fish spent watching climbing movies including for supper was so plentiful, we didn't Americans on Everest. Sunday each club cook the beef stew, but kept it for described its advanced and speci2lized Sunday lunch. Ch Sunday Fritz and I courses. Mr. Townsley, Rainier Pan)< climb~d a peak above Lake Donald superintendent gave a talk on the new 6,500 feet and looked down into frozen park climbing rules and philosophy. Larch Lake. The country above Lake Complete minutes wiJ.1 be available when Donald is excellent for a ski touring Jj.m Mitchell gets around to transcribing along the Chewaukan ridge possibly for the proceedings from tape recordings. two or three days. The weather was .very good and four men and two boys slept comfortably in the Boealps Logan tent. Lee West ACTIVITY PROGRAM DOUBLE PEAK, MT. RAINIER PARK 19 October 69 9 November 69 Boealp members, Bob Storaasli, Dave Traverse--Denny Mountain to Chair Peak. Hambly and Ron Johnson and guests Mike Con ta ct David Hambly 3l, 2-5232. Clark and Glen Reihl. Elevation gain 3,l.OO feet. Starting from approx. 16 November 69 6 miles south of Cayuse Pass on Highway 123, the highest of the peaks Mt. Dickerman, Big Four Area. Hike the (SW) was climbed via the southeast 5-mile traiJ to summit. Contact ridge. The ridge was gained from the Roil.and Amundsen 7113-5l.i02 east basin (elev. 5,ooo·feet) by ascending a scree slope bolov the east ?3 November 69 face. Two climbers continued on to the Pinnacle Peak, Mt. Rainier Park. Meet at lower northeast peak by rappeling into eBst entrance to Renton Shopping Center the notch between the peaks and at 6 AM. Canta ct Lee West %2-02211 or climbing class 3-11 rock above the GL l.i-0710. notch. Descent to the east basin was made via a rappel back to the notch and 28 November 69 a scree slope below the notch. Snoqualmie Pass area - sno,•shoe trip. , Contact Jerry Hi] J is, 5-5%1 or SP 2-6167.

c:: 27, 28, 29 and 30 Nov 69 North Wilderness Beach, Olympic Park. CONS ERVJ\ T JON start at Cape Alva, and be prepared for rain, snow, sleet, haiJ and min:Lmwn of sunshine. Contact Ron Johnson 5-1678 JlhHS IN THE NffiTH CASCADES or FA 3-0205. Washington State conservationists arP. PROPOSED Ot!rINGS FOR 197C fighting for their lives, as Round Two of the North Cascades batt1e begins. To widen our activities for next year, Seattle City Light, the Public Utility of 'two outings of one week ,njnimmn duration the city, is coming before the City are proposed. Each of these outings Council this month with requests for will be planned to accommodate a variety 3/ii mil1ion do1lars for "engineering funds, 11 of climbing and hiking. Areas being for fina1 design work on the controversial considered at this time are: High Ross Dam and Thunder Creek Dam. The 1) Southern Selkirks, vicinity of first involves the raising of an existing Rogers Pass. Peaks of interest to dem 125 feet, and the flooding out of climbers: Mt. MacDonald, Uto Pk., magnificent cedar and fir forests in the Mt. Sir Donald, Eag1c Pk., Termina] Pk., valley of Bie; Beaver Creek, the major Rogers Pk., Swiss Pk., Hermit Mt. and wilderness entryway into the Picket Range. Mt. Tupper. The Thunder Creek project will punch a 2) Sawtooth Range, Olympic Park. Peaks road 5 miles into the wilderness of the of intt0rest to climbers: Lincoln, prime entryway into the E1dorado Peak Cruiser, Alpha, The Trylon Rectagon, country, flood out one of the most scenic Fin, Horn, Noodle Needle and Fag Crag. gorges in the entire area, and drown out The extent of climbing 2nd hiking will a magnificent wilderness low eleva.tion depend upon the members interested and forest. City Light is mounting an al~-out their abi1ity. All climbs or hikes campaign; the City Council is in doubt. ,will be made in &mall groups, no mass Letters should go immediately to Seattle assaults. Members who are interested City Counci1, Seattle Municipal Building, are requested to direct their Seattle, 961011, letting the councilmen suggestions or questions to Ron know that this is far more than r. loca] Johnson, Org. 2-6543, M/S 4C-43. issue.

MOUNTAIN RESCUE CONFERENCE TRAIL VEHICV, REGULATIONS

Mountain Rescue groups wi11 hold their FROM: Brock Evans, Northwec,t bi-annutl conference at the new Representative Washington Plaza hotel Friday and TO: FWDC Clubs.in Washington, and Saturday, 28 and 29 Nov. An interesting other conservationists progrEJTI is planned including feature RE: Washington State Department of speaker Willi Unsoeld (Everest), a Natural Resources New Regulations report from the survivors of the Regarding Trail Vehicles Dhaulagiri disaster, Rainier Park Ch October ll,, after publishing two weeks superintendent Mr. Townsley, equipment of notice, the State Department of Natural displays and other attractions. Resources held a hearing in Olympia on the Cost is $15, including meals. Cal] subject of new regulations which they Dwight Baker 655-0688 for more details. proposed to adopt. The regulations had to do with regulating behavior in and around campgrounds and other DNR lands. The essence and the most controversial part of the regulatj ons, however, was a section

6 which prohibited use of traiJ vehicles words, with roughly the following (motor bikes, Hondas, etc.) on tra.Ds message: except where posted and authorized by .1) Commend the U'lR for their action in the Department. This seemed to be a proposing strong rules to reguJ.ate most reasonable regulation, because it conduct which interferes with other .. would not ban motor bikes, but just users of the public lands • regulate their use--just ~s on otner 2) Mention the noise factor, but don I t public lands. make this the maJor part of your statement. They a.re noisy, they do The hearing turned out to be a disaster destroy the recreation experiences that frorn our standpoint. Of the 400 people we seek to use. in the hearing room, 5 of them were 3) As I see it, the essence of our conservationists and the other 395 were argument is that the motorcyclists• motor bike enthusiasts. Speaker after pursuit of their recreation destroys or ilpeaker c.rgued that the entire set of harms the enjoyment of other users of regulations should be stricken in tote, the public 1ands. It doesn't cut both on the grounds that they were - -­ ways; our use doesn't interfere with ; discriminatory to motor bike users. them. There must be restrictions and Speaker after speaker strongly asserted regulations on their use, so that other the right of motor bike users to go people rnay also enjoy the public lands. any.,here on state lands, at any time, That's what these regulations are all about. in any way they pleased. The essence of their response to the arguments that Your letters should be sent to the State this might interfere with horsemen, Department of Natural Resources, Olympia, hikers, or other users, was that "they Washington, 98501, and should refer to had better get out of the way. 11 the new proposed rules pertaining to public use of DNR managed lands and The measage in all of this is plain: roads. Statements should be in within If each one of us want to have a noise two weeks; it may be too late after that. free hiking or riding experience on (Mr. Brock Evans' memorandum was d~ted state lands, we had better do something 17 Oct 69.) about it--fast. We were woefully under­ represented at this hearing. Notice was BE CONSERVATION CONSCIOUS. short. Many of our people who might have gone ordinarily, attended other meetings instead. ·Sorne of them were Mountaineers meetings, some were PTA MOUNTAINEERING EQUIPMENT ~eetings, and there were other conflicts as well. But in the process, the motorcycle clubs great impression on not only the state DNR, but also on other The Boealps pl.an to send an order for Federal and Forest Service officials too speci~lized mountaineerinr equipment to who attended the hearing. It is going to Sporthaus Schuster in West Germany, Both to be rnuch more difficult to restrict the summer and winter catalogswill be motor bike use of trails on other lands availab1e at the Nov and Dec meetings. besides the state lands unless we do The order wilJ. be ma±1ed about 15 Jan 70. something. Pre-payment is required a.t the time the order is placed. If you are interested, Therefore, we must have your club and contact Bob Storaasli 655-2415 for info, individual letters--now! If we want to protect our recreation opportunities, and and have the soljtude that we all seek EQUIPMENT FCR SALE without the razz of motorcycles everywhere we go, we must write our ")Hf-i8HHHP..HHH88:.:~-3"{--¾-'",HHHHH8HHHH'.-J::-l:H~~~"y:~ letters. Letters should be in your own Anyone with eouipment for sale should seno detai1s to the editor, C.N. Huggins, 9-7000, M/S 1,1-92.

7 BOEALP,S HUT MAP

ffS H IATC!s:'.: RY PADLor..1< lo - •I• BOEING EMPLOYEES ALPINE SOCIETY, INC.

Officers and Directors Committee Chairmen President W. J. H. West 342-0224 Activities R. R. Johnson 655-1678 Vice President J. Hillis 655-5941 Programs D. Plummer 773-2832 Secretary D. Hambly 342-5232 Membership T. Schotten 237-9504 Treasurer R. W. Peterson 655-2298 Conservation o_ Hendrickson 655-0183 Past President D_ C. Baker 655-0688 Echo Editor C. N. Huggins 655-8547 & Hut

DECEMBER BANQUET

Friday, December 12, 1969

Washington Athletic Club

Tickets $5. 50 No host cocktails, 7 :00 p. m.

Guest speaker will be Peter K. Schoening, member of the 1966 American Antarctlc Mountaineering Expedition, led by Nick Clinch. We will have his account of this successful expedition and the many first ascents in the Antarctic Sentinel Range.

JANUARY MONTHLY MEETING

Thursday, January 8, 1970, 7:30 p. m.

BSRL Cafeteria

First part: 8mm color film featuring climbing of Castle Rock, by Peter Morgenthaler

Second part: 11 A Gentleman Climber's Guide to Climbing in Canada." Slide lecture by John Pollock BOEA LP CALENDAR ACTIVITY REPORT

Dec 6 Seattle-Leavenworth Train MT. DICKERMAN Trip - Santa Claus and Christmas Lighting Festival 16 November 69 Dec 7 Hike/Climb from Leavenworth Four members, Roland Amundson, Dick H11t, Erwood, Bob Gunning and Ron Johnson started out with some doubts as to the Dec 7 Hike - Heybrook Lookout weather reports but discovered the Dec 12 Annual Banquet - weatherman true to form. Snow on the Washington Athletic Club road and heavy snow falling prompted a turn around before reaching Verlot. Dec 2:>-?B Snowshoe Climb - Enchantment An hour coffee session followed at a Lakes (tentative) local cafe viewing panoramic scenes Dec 26-31 Ski/Snowshoe Tour - from Mt. Dickerman on a clear day. Mt. Cashmere Jan 6 Tuesday night - Ski lessons MOUNTAJN RESCUE CONFERENCE - Snoqualmie Smmnit 28 to 29 November 69 Jan 11 3'.mday ski lessons - Stevens Pass The biennial mountain rescue conference 26 and 29 November at the Washington Jan 31 & Leavenworth ski jumping - Plaza hotel was attended by Jerry Hillis, Feb l hut weekend party Dave Hambly and Dwight Baker. A number of interesting talks were given by well February Ski Mountaineering Course known mountaineers and rescue April 3-5 Northwest Wilderness authorities. John Townsley, Rainier Park Conference - Seattle superintendent talked about the new climbing regulations which are now off;'.cia). Mon thru Physical fitness classes at See copy attached to this issue. A Fri Mothers Park Recreation Hal) detailed conference report will be Evenings at Renton compiled by Jerry Hillis. (He a)so won a down sleeping bag in the conference lottery.)

PINNACLE PEAK, MT. RAINIER PARK MEET JNG MillUTES 23 November 69

Memhers George Thompson, Fritz Cerny, EXECUTIVE MEEI'ING his son, Leo, Bob Storaasli and guests 18 November 69 Mike Clarke and Randy Kirk left Renton at 6 AM as planned, took breakfast in M:'!eting was held at Andy's Diner. Puyallup, then motored on only to Members Present - Lee West encounter rain at Narada Falls and snow Gerry Hillis at Paradise. Plans were revised and the David Hambly party set out for Panorama Dome. At the Dick Peterson base of the Dome, skis and snowshoes were Dwight Baker dumped and here Fritz and his son decided Ted Schotten to ski back to Paradise. Dome was reached Neale Huggins in a blizzard which one member decided was Minutes will be in next ECHO.

2 "a perfect place for Junch." Returned 26 to 31 December 69 to Paradise but Fritz and Leo had not returned until 1 hour ]ater, having Icicle River/Mt. Cashmere/Ridge 6600 area strayed to Edith Creek. Ski/Snowshoe Tour. This will be a 5-day Leader's Moral: Do not split a party tour in the high country immediate]y in poor conditions. adjacent to the Icicle liver to explore the winter sports potential of this area. Meet Friday night 26 December at NCRTH WIWERNESS BEACH, OLYMPIC PARK Leavenworth Hut and start earJy Saturday, 27, 28 and 29 November 69 27 December. Contact Dwight Baker on 655-06BB. Only two members, Bob Gunning and Ron Jbhnson turned out for the Beach Hike SCME TENTATIVE ACTIVITIES FOR 1970 0ver the Thanksgiving Holiday. C]ear :Okies, a three quarter moon and mi1d Climbs and Tours - Leavenworth area temperatures made it the most memorable Thanksgiving beach hike in the last December - Ski tour Icicle area four years. February - Climb - Mt. Cashmere February - Ski/snowshoe tour - From the Ozette Lake Resort a boat was Enchantment Lakes taken to Allens Bay for the start of March 1 - HP.licopter skiing - the hike to the Norwegian Memorial. Mt. Cashmere FrOlll the memorial, we proceeded north April - Ski tour - Windy Pass, camping near Miners Cove at the Cape Mt. Cashmere Alva and returning to Lake Ozette via May - Icicle Ridge the Indian Village Trail. Plans had July - Mt. Temple been made to hike south frorn SHI-SHI August - Mt. Stuart Beach to Point of Arches; however, the October - .Ebchantment Lakes Indians have barricaded the road due to the condition the caJllpers left the area Ski Mountaineering Course last Labor Day. Considerable interest has been expressed in a BOEALPS sponsored ski mountaineering course this winter. There is no ACTIVITY PROGRAM M:iuntaineers coursP. available this year. We are providing an opportunity for BOEALP members to upgrade their skiing ability in 7 December 69 January, February and March through BOEA.LPS ski touring lessons - (See ski instruction notice this issue). Provided there is Heybrook Lookout. An 8-mile round trip to Lookout at relatively low elevation. enough additional interest, a lecture and field trip course will be offered for those Excellent views of Mt. Index, Persis and qualified in skiing technique, starting in Baring frorn the Lookout. A good hike for February. It will include guest lecturers early winter. Contact Clyde Joerg on and experienced field trip instructors. 655-4006 or UL 4-0429 Some people who have indicated willingness to teach for either lectures or field trips 22 to 2B December 69 are Clyde Lince, Jim Mitchell and Ken Prestrud. Where lecture subjects are common Looking for a place to go over the to basic climbine, an arrangement will be Christmas holiday? How about the made to cover these subjects in conjunction Enchantment Lakes? If interested or with the BOEALPS basic climbing course taught have other suggestions, contact by John Pollack, Harmon Jones and Hans Zogg. Bob Bro.m 7-8572 or UL 4-3301.

3 Special emphasis will be on ski mountaineering subjects such as avalanches, winter survival, glacier SAFETY travel and winter route finding. Fee will be $15 to $25 depending on what can be worked out in a number of The Alpine Society has received a letter lectures and field trips and available from the Forestry Service concerning instructors. A decision to offer thjs avalanche control. course will be made by 5 January, dependent on the amount of interest, so Gentlemen: please call Dwight Baker on 655-0688 or Che step in controlling the avalanche EX 2-3203 to indicate your interest in hazard at Alpental includes contro~ling a either taking or helping to instruct large avalanche path on the southwest side this course. of Snoqualmie Mountain. This is accomp­ lished by shooting the upper southwest Ski Instruction face of Snoqualmie Mountain and the upper end of Cave Ridge with a 75 MM Army field artillary rifle from the Alpental ski area. Starting January 6, the club will again offer ski instruction for BOEAIJ'S It would be extremely dangerous for anyone members and their families. These to be on Snoqualmie Mountain or Cave Ridge lessons will be oriented towards when this control action takes place. touring and mountaineering skiing. The 75 MM shell has approximately 2 pounds Cost will be the same as last year, of TNT in the warhead and explodes upon $12 for six weeks. As in the past contact with the snow and can scatter three.years, Northwest Ski Schools wilJ shrapnel for many hundreds of feet. The provide certified instructors. Where a avalanches released by this explosion have minimum of eight of equivalent ability varied from small sluffs to ones of major can be formed in one class, instruction proportion. will concentrate on basic techniques intended to develop and improve your There is a sign on Cave Ridge which should skiing ability for touring and climbing be visible to anyone climbing by that route away from packed slopes and lift lines. warning of the danger. Stem christie and higher level abilities The trip up Snoqualmie Mountain is covered will be given more than the usual amount in the publication Snowshoe Hikes in the of training in deep snow and rough Cascades and Olympics by Gene Prater but, terrain, in the woods, on steep slopes, no mention of this hazard is made. skiing with a pack, and other touring techniques. CLIMBJNG REGULATIONS Classes begin Tuesday night, 6 Jan ,ct Snoqualmie Summit and Sunday, 11 Jan Mt. Rainier National Park at Stevens Pass. Application forms and more information will be mailed to all Attached on last page of this ECHO. members. Send application with $12 per person plus $5 for 1970 dues, if not already paid, to: Erhard Wichert 18824 - Fourth Avenue Southwest Seattle, Washington 98166 or Crg. 6-8760 M/S 41-22 phone 655-6772 or CH 4-5387

4 SEARCH & RESCUE connected power, we were able to clean Icicle Area, Chelan County and start the furnace, replace upstairs windows, rebuild the firehose box and A mountaineering search and rescue ski install firehose, install safety valve patrol has recently been organized by and repair plumbing, assemble bunks and Dwight Baker. It is an officially haul a few items of furniture and range. registered patrol in the National Ski Only casualty was some window glass, Patrol System. The NSPS is seeking to which didn I t make it intact all the way expand its capability in mountaineering to Leavenworth in Ron Mayo's car. Several and touring type skiing. This patrol busy evenings were also spent in Lloyd is the first of its type in the Pacific Barnes• shop rebuilding deteriorated Northwest and possibly the entire windows. A new club member, Bob Swenson country. Its official name is the has joined the hut committee. A great ' Icicle Ski Patrol and it will cover the variety of jobs have been accomplished by entire Icicle River drainage area for Bob already including plumbing, electrical, search, rescue and first aid, carpentry and you name it he can do it. particularly for winter activities in If you are an unskilled apprentice on any this area but also for summer search of the hut work party jobs, Bob will bail and rescue if called upon. The BOEALPS you out. His table saw setup in the Leavenworth hut will provide a first aid upstairs (temporary) workshop has room and base for equipment and increased the productivity 200%. A stock operations for this patrol. This of pre-cut bunk parts is now ready for mass winter its primary activities besides production assembly. .possible rescues will be practice tours We hope to assemble a few more Dec 6 and 7 about once a month and support of a but the weekend will be primarily devoted helicopter skiing trip in March which to recreation instead of work. But anyone is being planned by Bill Stark and who works half a day doesn't have to pay Dwight Baker. Initial members are the overnight hut fee. Also, you can use Dwight Baker, Patrol Leader, Ron Mayo, any hut fee credit you already havE. Assistant Patrol leader, Fritz Cerny and Bill Asplund who is a member of Saturday is the Christmas Lighting and Alpine Roamers in Wenatchee. BO&ALP Bavarian village Leavenworth celebration. members Karl Hoff and Russ Post have (See the schedule for village festivities) also indicated they may join. Patrol People who take the special excursion qualifications are an advanced Red train from Seattle for the day (750 Cross First Aid Card and ability to people will -- it is sold out) will be ski in rough terrain and handle a welcome to visit the hut. A shuttle loaded toboggan. As soon as you transport (look for BOEALPS sign) ,iervice complete the first aid, you can sign from the village to the hut will O?erate up as a candidate. Then, if you need between 1 PM and 5 PM. Christmas (hot it, we will help you on your skiing wine) refreshments will be served at the and toboggan handling techniques. hut Saturday. Sunday there will be a day Contact Dwight Baker for details hike/climb led by Russel Post. 655-0688, EX 2-3203. Overnight fees apply as announced last month. Bring your sleeping bag, pad, and food and pay a hut committee member $1.50 for Saturday night only or $2 for Friday LEA VENWCRTH HUT and Saturday, or $4 and $5 respectively for the whole family. Guest fees are 1 1/2 times. Some people who paid dues by Dec 1 have one hut fee credit each, and some have A productive work weekend Nov 15 and 16 accumulated work party credits (1/2 day and a few workers since then have work for 1 night credit). According completed enough to make the hut usable to records, these are, as of Dec 1, 69: for the winter. With the newly Name Hut Dues Paid The hut can use household items which Work by Dec 1 would be welccrne if donated. or sold cheap. We could use the following items: R. Amundson 1 Folding chairs c. Anderson 1 Card tables and covers L. Anderson 1 Benches, sling chairs R. Ayer 1 &,,all tables, lamps D. Baker 16 1 Large cabinet with shelves for L. Barnes 3 first aid supplies c. Brown 2 Stokes litter, stretcher, blankets R. Brown 11 1 First aid type bunk on wheels, sheets, J. Burrows 1 pillows, any kind of first aid F. Cerny 4 1 supplies and equipment W. Clark 1 Retired climbing equipment for R. Erwood 1 decoration (ice axe, rope, hardware, B. Fairchild 1 crampons, etc.) D. Frisinger 1 Money box (breadbox size or smaller) c. Glenn 1 3 speed record player or stereo D. Hambly 2 1 Records G. Harvey 1 Mountain photos and art J. Hillis 4 Mountaineering books and .Journals , T. Hollis 2 1 Bookshelves R. Howlett 1 Coal shovel ·N. Huggins 9 Snow shovel Wheel barrow C. Joerg 4 Garden hose Axe V. Josendal 1 Wash basin Wedge J. Klosterman 1 Water closet Firewood saw R. Kube 1 Bathroom mirror Shovel c. Lince 8 1 Bathroom light fixture Iain Linn 8 1 Pick Rake R. Mayo 20 W:;iatherstripping R. Mackay 1 Refrigerator-freezer K. Mir sh 1 Pots., pans, kitchen utensils W. Misener 1 Electric can opener A. Moowiweer 11 1 Clothes dryer R. Parker 1 Stainless flatware G. Patzer 1 Drape rods, drapes D. Plummer 1 Paint, paint brushes L. Peterson 1 1 The hut committee interior design R. Peterson 8 subcommittee reserves the right to turn R. Post 6 down any donated item, so don't feel hurt G. Riehl 1 1 if your pet white elephant is not G. Salberg graciously accepted. If you have any of T. Schotten 1 1 1 the above items, call Dwight Baker E. Schrode 655-068e or EX 2-3203. H. W. Smith 8 R. Smith 2 ,W. Smith 1 w. stark 8 R. Swenson 14 1 L. West 7 1 E. Wichert 10 1 H. Wurth 1 H. Zogg 1 I:f you disagree with the above record, Call Ron Ma.yo 655-1856.

6 Size: 7 1/2 ft by 4 1/2 ft Waight: 1 1/4 pounds CONSERVATIOO Vol\JJlle: Approx.. 1 pint Thermos bottle Color: International orange Price: $15 SNCQUAI.MIE DAMS If interested in tent, contact Gary Frederickson, 7-9361, Mis 77-89. The Army Corps of Engineers has recOlll!1lended that construction of the North Fork Dam be deferred. However, EQU:IPMENT FOR SALE the Corps continues to urge construction of the proposed dam for the Middle Fork -lH!·l8H!·li-lHP--~ ~ ¾l( l( ¾* ¾ l< ¾ ¾ lh'\--:Hfl<·-lHH!­ of the Snoqualmie River. The Middle Anyone with equipment for sale should send Fork is perhaps the most scenic of the details to the editor, C. N. Huggins, two and deserves preservation from the 9-7000, M/S 53-83. rape of the "dam II people. We have received a request from a Boy Scout leader who needs snowshoes in ANTI-ENVIRONMENT INC. reasonable condition. Anyone wishing to donate discarded snowshoes, please contact A new Seattle based anti-conservation the editor. group has recently formed. It goes by the name "All Outdoors" and claims to represent the opinion of outdoor recreationists. The group favors COMPANY BENEFIT i'nultiple use of public lands and is -lHH!- ~ H l( ¾ ¾ XlHHP.HH!-JHl--M40l ¾¾ *lrn-lHH~} against the "locking up II of wilderness by the so-called single interest According to a recent Recreation Unit conservationists. memo: "An employee placed on lay-off status by The Boeing Campany after he has paid the appropriate activity dues or fees which MOUNTAINEERING EQUJPMENT signify membership in an activity ma? continue to participate for the remainder of that member ship year. Th\ployees SPORTHAUS SCHUSTER participating in an activity that levies dues and fees on a monthly schedule may The BIBALPS plan to send an order for continue to oarticipate for a period of specialized mountaineering equipment to time not to ~x.ceed one year from notice Sporthaus Schuster in West Germany. of layoff. In both cases membership may Both the summer and winter catalogs will not be renewed after the termination of be available at the Dec meetings. the period specified for continued The order will be mailed about 15 Jan 70. activity affiliation. :Employees who Pre-payment is required at the time the terminate voluntari1y through resignation order is placed. If you are interested, or are fired must immediately sever all contact Bob Storaasli 655-2415. relationships with Company supported recreation activities except wherein TENTS they continue to qualify as a spouse. " A Boeing employee has designed and arranged for manufacture of a light weight, waterproof nylon two-man tent. The tent is sui tabJ.e for summer and also as an emergency shelter tent.

7 UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR NATIONAL PARK SERVICE Mount Rainier National Park Longmire, Washington 98397

CLIMBING REGULATIONS

By authority contained in section 3 of the act of August 25, 1916 (39 Stat, 535, as amended: 16 u.s.c.3), 245 rn,r 1 (27 F.R. 6395), as amended, National Park Service Order No. 34 (31 F.R. 4255 ), as amended, National Park Service Order No. 4 (31 F.R. 5769), as amended, ~ 7,5 of Title 36 of the Code of Federal Regulations is amended as set forth below:

(b) Climbing a~d Hiking

(1) Registration wich the Superintendent is required prior to and upon return from any climbing or hiking on glaciers or above the normal high camps such as Camp Muir and Camp Schurman.

(2) A person under 18 years of age must have permission of his parent or legal guardian before climbing above the normal high camps.

(3) A party traveling above the high camps must consist of a minimum of two persons unless prior permission for a solo climb has been obtained from the Superintendent. The Superintendent will consider the following points when reviewing. a request for a solo climb: The weather prediction for the estimated duration o~ the climb, and the likelihood of new snowfall, sleet, fog, or hail along the Joute, the feasibility of climbing the chosen route because of normal inherent hazards, current route conditions, adequacy of equipment and clothing, and qualifying experience necessary for the route contemplatedo

1".0RA 173 (rev. ) RS 11/69 s