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] A yellow taxi passes by a house on Pathuria Ghat Street in north district that continues to be dominated by old palatial houses bound by narrow lanes

> A resident of the Rajbati on Road stands in the court- yard of the house on a winter afternoon. The area was once dominated by the Tagore clan, including the family of

A storied neighbourhood in , ensconced roughly between the Hooghly and Chitpur Road, was where the merchant princes of Bengal built their magnificent palatial houses at the height of British mercantile domination of eastern . Today these Raj Baris stand crumbling but are still guardians of a burnished part. Devjyot Ghoshal visits them with his camera

]The marble-floored Thakur Dalan, or worshipping platform, of the Jorasanko Rajbati, where prayers are still held and incense sticks burnt before small potted Tulsi plants

< Remains of the main doorway and turret of Tagore Castle in ’s street. Built by Jatindra Mohan Tagore, it was supposedly modelled after Windsor Castle. Extensively remodelled and badly mutilat- ed, as a consequence of unplanned alternations and exten- sions, the building stands as evidence of the profligacy of Kolkata’s erstwhile trader nobility. ] ]The imposing facade, complete with Corinthian columns, of the Lohia Matri Sewa Sadan, a maternity home, that was once the residence of Haren Sil, a merchant prince

] Remnants of an older, grand building stand merged and mutilated with modern construction on Muktaram Babu Street, not far from the Mullick family’s famed

„ ( Clockwise from left) The facade of the , a family house of the Tagores and the birth- place of Rabindranath Tagore. Now a part of the Rabindra Bharati University, it remains one of the bet- ter preserved ancient palaces of north Kolkata

„ The dimly-lit veranda of Jadulal Mullick’s house on Pathuria Ghat Street where members of the family still reside in the sprawling, multi- storied mansion. Cast-iron decora- tions line the courtyard with original light fittings; ancestral belongings are still visible in the surrounding living quarters

„ Cars stand parked before the crum- bling columns of the massive man- sion locally referred to the ‘Mullick Bari’, right beside the Marble Palace on Muktaram Babu Street, that was also built by the Mullicks