real food. real stories.

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feB - Mar 2018 PHP 120.00

Guest List

Chef Kalel Chef Niño Chan Laus With his It still holds true passion for that the name EDITOR IN CHIEF innovative Niño Laus is Alexis Kim Paola Selom Cuizon kitchen flairs, synonymous Kalel certainly to the word ASSISTANT ASSOCIATE EDITOR knows the way to ‘reinvention’. And Trish Dumlao his diner’s heart. He for a great 13 years, had somehow mastered how Ninyo Fusion Cuisine has been a EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS to capture the palette of his concrete manifestation of it. Now, Arrah Balucating, Muriel Dizon Raintree Restaurants regulars. his savvy for innovation is tested In this issue, he is setting the once again as he curates an LAYOUT ARTIST bar high with his tamarind- amazing three-course meal with Kit Singson incorporated dishes that is dishes full-on nori which, to no perfect for any time of the day. surprise, are all stupefying. CREATIVE TRAINEE Karlo Cadang ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Chef Chris Chef Kristine Ena Torreda de Jesus Lotilla

DIGITAL MARKETING STRATEGIST He has helmed The only rose Carla Arroyo homey among the delectable thorn of chefs DIGITAL MARKETING ASSOCIATE heritage cuisine that make up Kiel Vasquez under his The Tasteless passion project Food Group, CIRCULATION MANAGER turned restaurant, Kristine never ceases to prove Christoper Cajucom Provenciano. Today, his cozy her wit and artistry. This issue, hearty reimaginings of local she takes the challenge to whip CIRCULATION ASSISTANT fares returns this issue with his up a three-course delight with Elnie De Leon timely renditions of dishes that everything coconut. Witness make use of one of our locally how she creates mouth- JUNIOR ACCOUNTANT abundant crops. Enter the sweet watering dishes with much Gladys Gumapac potato in all its glory. His three- grace and finesse. course meal utilizes different RECIPE DEVELOPER kinds of kamote that will leave Chef Mac Flaviano tongues wagging. Chef Noel CONTRIBUTORS Mauricio Timothy Diao, Justin de Jesus, Dang As part and Futalan, Pam Musni, Tricia Quintero, Chef Robby parcel of the Bert Santos Goco brilliant minds that comprise SPECIAL THANKS TO A passionate soul who The Tasteless Jasmine Bernales, Prof. Kevin Carpio, believes that Food Group, Chef Jack Flores, Chef Raul Forés, Chef food is more Noel’s creativity Carlos Franco, Heather Mahi, Cel Reyes, than just what knows no bounds. Proof of this Queenee Villar we take in; but is how he rose up to the ultimate challenge of making sriracha SPECIAL THANKS TO also about what we leave behind, Chef Robby work for an appetizer, a main dish, 25 Seeds, Tasteless Food Group Goco goes beyond great and a dessert. Flip through these tasting fares. His sustainable- pages to see the feisty delightful friendly approach is indeed a masterpieces he came up with. notable feat. And this he is keen to share with us again on his cunning three-tiered take on Chef Thirdy the avocado. Dolatre

After countless Dang Futalan travels abroad, and braving A digital nomad the unknown and a gym to gain what it enthusiast, takes to become an Dang spends extraordinary chef, Thirdy is one her time either who lives for gastronomy and all on her laptop or its wonders. This issue, he proves at the gym. She his prowess as he takes the dare self-studies about to concoct three bacon dishes ON THE COVER slipped discs and food macros, good as a starter, a main, and a Recipe by Sau del Rosario plays the guitar, and writes about sweet dish you can easily recreate Photography by Bert Santos anything under the sun. at home.

2 breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 editor’s note

wo Thousand and glory days of trial and unlearning experiences Twelve—the year error, agreements and has taught me that our Twe introduced disagreements, late nights dreams, as imaginable as Breakfast magazine. It was and early mornings as one they may be, start with a February celebration at of the most sensational just one person and that Enderun. I vividly recall years since Breakfast is you. If there are tough the joy it was to work with came to be. Thank you for times, know that there Ms. Judy Ann Santos, who jumpstarting your career will be tougher ones. It is graced the cover. Having journey with Breakfast when we choose to believe her was a good headstart magazine. I wouldn’t have in ourselves that difficult for us. The media launch had it differently. things become obsolete. also featured five esteemed Thirteen—this is how We close this issue with chefs who co-introduced much our family has excitement for better and the title. One of which was grown. All the days each bigger things for AKME Chef Sau, who up until of you have spent in the Publishing. Our online today, we continue to work office fighting deadlines, titles, breakfastmag.com with on certain projects. meeting goals, and and asiafoodnews.com, will My gratefulness to Chef thinking ahead has proved continue to bring you Sau extends beyond words. how well we co-existed relevant food content. This, His loyalty and friendship with the changes around too, marks the beginning has mounted Breakfast us, good and bad. You are of our journey in the digital to be what it is today. It all appreciated. world. I hope you continue was also the same issue Thirty Eight—the to share the same demeanor that brought me to meet last issue number; also with us online. Mr. Spanky Enriquez. His the issue you are holding From the bottom of our hospitality helped us get now. As I write this, hearts, thank you for the acquainted with the best I only think of how unwavering support! food and the best people grateful we all are for in the industry. Thank you each one who has kept us Cheers! for everything! off of the shelves. Three—the number One—the number of of people who started people I needed to believe Breakfast magazine. in this magazine. Six To Sam and Paola, I steady years of growth and will forever hold our a handful of learning and Alexis

breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 3 Table of Contents

real food

6 Avocado While the avocado has always been around, pretty solid recipes to many have yet to back our case up. discover its true blue potential in the understand why. It’s sweet, 33 Sweet Potato kitchen. Now, the ball nutty flavor can truly make a Locally known as is in your court to dish more heavenly. So here’s the ‘kamote’, this whip up some seriously some 3-course coconut-infused ingredient has played a huge part to our good grub from this recipes that’ll soothe all your wonder fruit. ancestors’ way of life. coco cravings. Now it’s time to revisit what was and recreate 12 Bacon 23 Nori the days of old with It’s time to go wild and Contrary to popular belief, nori some delectable indulge in everything can go beyond the sushi. Truth modern twists. bacon! The crispy, is, it can actually come in handy salty, and fatty for perking up your meals. Here 38 Tamarind ingredient might be are some mouthwatering recipes Here’s one tale you've considered sinful, that’ll make you always keep a got to remember when but this cult-favorite stock in your pantry. doing magic in the ingredient can truly kitchen. The tamarind, make everything 28 Sriracha locally known as the better. See how! Would you believe us if we tell ‘sampaloc’ may not be you that sriracha goes well in season for the whole 18 on everything? From salads to year but we show you Coconut how competent it is as Nuts for anything with roasts to yes, even desserts! coconut? We definitely an ingredient for most And here we’ve rounded up some meals of the day.

4 breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 Table of Contents

real stories 44 Man of the Hour 66 Gastronomy Much has been written Confidential about Chef Sau del The only constant thing Rosario over the years– in the world is change his drive, his passion and art is a living for travel, his acclaimed dining. This issue, we give you testament of it. In this pursuits. But while it may an exclusive behind the scenes issue, we scoop all the know-hows about non- be tempting to harp on look at what makes 210 Degrees traditional sushi with his successes, not many Kitchen + Drinkery tick. Sushi Nori. We show you would want to dwell on how they transformed the challenges that push 62 Essays a classic food into a it behind the scenes. This We are living in a world quirky one that oozes issue, we sat with the of exciting times in our with youthful charm. celebrated chef to speak gastronomic scene. Left and With these innovations about the trials he had right, new cuisines and ideas in sushi making, it can undergone throughout pervade the market, much to easily fit anybody’s his career, as well as the consumers’ delight, and fast-paced lifestyle! the lessons he’s taken especially with the rise of from them. adventurous eaters. This is 72 Food Trip what drove us to explore two With the local 54 Brand Talk things. First, the safety and restaurant scene We sit down with Chef precautions one must take flourishing more than William Mahi as he heed with the widely accepted ever, a number of establishments seek introduces the concept of trend of eating raw seafood to make a difference. “fun dining” and creates dishes. Then, we delve into the This issue, we round an authentic eclectic spectrum of the creativity that up a list who dare to experience that adds goes within a plate as we look defy the classics, and to Manila’s fine roster into the minds of Manila’s top- is truly worthy of of degustation-centric tiered restaurants. attention.

breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 5 F Green Pastures o o C y Go BB ro ef CH y by Justino Marvin de JesusCatalan RECIPESoGRAPH by oT PH N AT Green Pastures Mine Bernaleso SAvocadoPECIALJas THANKSoCATI T Brav0 AND N L oT o SH

Green Pastures is located at G/F Net Park, 5th Avenue, Bonifacio Global City, Taguig City. For inquiries, contact (+63) 926 0630 930. ReaL FOOD: avocado

AVOCADO HUMMUS AND AVOCADO GREENS Preparation time: 25 minutes Cooking time: 10 minutes Serves 6 to 8

Ingredients FOR THE CILANTRO LIME DRESSING • 60 grams roast chicken meat • 2 teaspoons lime juice • ½ cup tortilla chips • ¼ cup distilled white vinegar • 1 tablespoon sunflower seeds • 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard • ½ cup honey FOR THE HUMMUS • 2 tablespoons shallots, finely chopped • 300 grams boiled or canned • 1 tablespoon cilantro, finely chopped chickpeas, drained • 1 ½ cups sunflower oil • 2 avocados (500 grams each) • 2 teaspoons salt (adjust if needed) • 1 tablespoon garlic, minced • 1 teaspoon pepper (adjust if needed) • ½ cup tahini paste • 3 teaspoons lemon juice FOR THE GREENS • ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil • 1 head romaine, chopped into • salt and pepper, to taste bite-sized pieces • 1 cup kale, chopped into bite-sized pieces TO ASSEMBLE • 1 cup arugula, chopped into • ½ cup avocado hummus bite-sized pieces • ¼ piece fresh avocado, thinly sliced • 2 cups Lollo Verde, chopped into • 1 tablespoon chickpeas, boiled bite-sized pieces • 1 teaspoon sunflower seeds • 1 whole avocado, diced • 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil • ¼ cup corn kernels • pinch of flakey sea salt • ¼ cup red onion, thinly sliced • pinch of fresh cilantro, chopped • ¼ cup grapes or cherry tomato Procedure FOR THE AVOCADO HUMMUS sprinkle some flakey sea salt, then 1. Combine chickpeas, avocados, and garnish with fresh cilantro. Serve garlic in a food processor. Pulse per plate. until well-blended. 2. Add tahini paste, lemon juice, extra FOR THE AVOCADO GREENS virgin olive oil, salt, and black 1. For the dressing, mix all ingredients pepper. Turn on food processor until well-combined. Place in chiller. and pulse until smooth and 2. Combine romaine, kale, Lollo well-combined. Taste and adjust Verde, and arugula in a mixing seasoning with salt and pepper. bowl. Dress with cilantro lime Place in chiller for about an hour dressing. Place on a serving plate before serving. then top the ingredients on top of 3. To assemble, spread avocado the greens. Drizzle with cilantro hummus on the bottom of the lime dressing before serving. plate. Top with fanned avocado slices, chickpeas, and sunflower Chef’s Note: You may use a mortar and seeds. Drizzle with olive oil and pestle if a food processor is not present.

breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 7 ReaL FOOD: avocado

8 breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 ReaL FOOD: avocado

AVOCADO WRAP Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: 5 minutes Serves 1

Ingredients • 1 piece pita bread • 1 teaspoon sunflower seeds • 1 teaspoon dried oregano • 1-2 tablespoons feta • 1 tablespoon extra cheese, crumbled virgin olive oil • ½ piece avocado FOR THE SIDE DISH (about 100 grams) • ½ piece avocado, diced • 5 pieces cherry tomatoes, • 1 teaspoon lime zest cut in half • 1 tablespoon lime juice • 5-8 pieces sundried tomato, • 1 tablespoon extra roughly chopped virgin olive oil • ½ teaspoon garlic, minced • salt and pepper, to taste • ½ teaspoon cilantro, chopped • pinch of cilantro • ½ teaspoon mint, chopped Procedure 1. Heat pita bread on a sauté parchment paper then pan or on a griddle. Brush set aside. with olive oil and season 3. Combine avocado, lime with dried oregano. zest, olive oil, lime juice, 2. Remove from heat salt, and pepper. Mix and arrange the other until well-combined. ingredients on top of 4. Place wrap on a plate. the pita bread. Wrap the Serve with side then pita bread with foil or garnish with cilantro.

breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 9 ReaL FOOD: avocado

Ingredients Procedure • 400 grams avocado, frozen 1. Combine frozen avocado, Greek HOMEMADE • 2 cups Greek yogurt yogurt, vanilla extract, honey, lime • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract zest, and salt in a blender. Blend • 1 cup honey until smooth. AVOCADO • 1 tablespoon lime zest 2. Place it in a container and put it • ½ teaspoon salt in the freezer. Freeze for about 4 FROYO hours. Check and mix every hour to Preparation time: 5 minutes TO ASSEMBLE prevent ice crystals from forming. Cooking time: 4-6 hours • 3-4 scoops avocado froyo 3. Scoop avocado froyo in desired Serves 4 to 6 • ¼ piece avocado slices glass, garnish with avocado, olive • 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil oil, salt, and lime zest. • pinch of flakey sea salt • 1 teaspoon lime zest

10 breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018

Refinery is located at Promenade, Greenhills Shopping Center, Ortigas Avenue, San Juan; with a branch at Rockwell Center, Makati. For inquiries, contact (02) 781-0344.

ng Home Th gi RECIPES by CHef tHirdy dolatre oF refinerye PHoToGRAPHy by Justin de Jesus B in SHoT oN LoCATIoN AT refinery AT GreenHills Br ac on ReaL FOOD: Bacon

BACON AND CORN CHOWDER Preparation time: 5-10 minutes Cooking time: 15-20 minutes Serves 4

Ingredients • 1/8 cup butter • 1 piece Japanese corn, • 4 pieces bacon, cut removed from cob to lardons • salt, to taste • 1 piece white onion, diced • pinch of black • ½ cup all purpose flour peppercorn, cracked • ½ liter full cream milk • toasted baguette, optional • ½ liter vegetable stock • dash of white truffle • 120 grams potatoes, diced oil, optional Procedure 1. In a pot, melt butter over liquid incorporates well low heat. Add in the with the flour. bacon and render all the 4. After mixing, add in the fat slowly on low heat. diced potatoes and Japanese 2. Add in the white corn. Simmer for 20 onions and sweat until minutes or until it reaches a translucent, then add in thick soup consistency. the all purpose flour. 5. Season with salt and freshly Mix well until it turns cracked black pepper. lightly brown. 6. To serve, you may opt to 3. Slowly add in the put a dash of white truffle full cream milk and oil and a slice of toasted vegetable stock. Whisk baguette on the side. continuously until the Serve hot. ReaL FOOD: Bacon

14 breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 ReaL FOOD: Bacon

“TOCINO” BACON, BIBINGKA PANCAKES, AND EGGS

Preparation time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 15 minutes Serves 2

Ingredients Procedure

• 1 piece bacon, thick-cut 1. To make the tocino glaze, • 1-2 pieces egg heat brown sugar in a pan until it dissolves. Using a FOR THE TOCINO GLAZE bowl, combine soy sauce, rice • 1 cup brown sugar vinegar, pineapple juice, and • 1 tablespoon soy sauce black pepper. Add to the pan. • 2 tablespoons rice vinegar Let the mixture reduce over • ¼ cup pineapple juice medium heat until it becomes • 1 teaspoon black pepper, cracked a sticky glaze. 2. In a separate pan or grill pan, FOR THE BIBINGKA BATTER sear the thick-cut bacon. After • ½ cup unsalted butter, softened searing the bacon, add in the • 1 pound sweet rice flour tocino glaze and simmer the • 2 ½ cups white sugar bacon until it is completely • 1 teaspoon baking powder coated with the glaze. • 3 cups full cream milk 3. In a mixing bowl, add in all • 5 pieces medium eggs ingredients of the Bibingka • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract batter. Line a small round cast • 1 cup desiccated coconut iron pan with banana leaves. Add in 1 cup of Bibingka TO ASSEMBLE batter and a slice of salted duck • banana leaves, cut to squares egg on top. • 1 slice salted duck egg 4. Bake inside a 350ºF oven for 15 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. 5. Serve it with eggs, cooked by your choice.

breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 15 ReaL FOOD: Bacon

Ingredients Procedure

• 1 piece bacon, thick-cut, 1. To make the sticky TO ASSEMBLE STICKY BACON cut to lardon pieces syrup, add in all 1. Heat up ensaymada • 1 piece store-brought ingredients in a small inside the oven for ENSAYMADA ensaymada pan. Dissolve brown 2 minutes. BUNS • 1/8 cup cashews, chopped sugar over low heat, or 2. Drizzle with sticky • scoop of ice cream, optional until it reaches a pancake syrup on top. Cooking time: 10-15 minutes syrup consistency. Cool 3. Add in the toasted bacon Preparation time: 10 minutes FOR THE STICKY SYRUP down and set aside. lardons on top. Serves 2 • ¼ cup butter 2. In a separate pan, add 4. Sprinkle with • ¼ cup brown sugar bacon lardons and chopped cashews. • 2 tablespoons light render the fat over 5. Serve with a scoop corn syrup low heat until bacon of ice cream. becomes crispy.Set aside.

16 breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018

RECIPES by CHef Kristine lotilla oF tHe tasteless food GrouP PHoToGRAPHy by Justin de Jesus Crazy SHoT oN LoCATIoN AT Hole in tHe wall Hole In the Wall is located at Century City Mall, Makati City. For inquiries, contact (02) 886-3056. for Coco ReaL FOOD: Coconut

BEER BATTER SHRIMP WITH PIñA COLADA DIP

Preparation time: 20 minutes Cooking time: 5-10 minutes Serves 4

Ingredients

FOR THE DIP • ½ cup rice flour • 1/3 cup pineapple bits • ½ cup flour with juice • 1 teaspoon salt • ½ cup coconut cream • ½ teaspoon baking soda • ½ cup sour cream • 1 can beer • 1 tablespoon sugar • 400 grams shrimp, shelled and deveined FOR THE SHRIMPS • ¾ cup flour • ½ cup cornstarch

Procedure

FOR THE DIP mixing thoroughly to 1. For the piña colada eliminate large lumps sauce, puree pineapple 2. Preheat oil for deep bits in a blender. frying to 175ºC. Dust 2. In a bowl, mix coconut the shrimp first in ¾ cream, sour cream, cup flour then into the sugar, and pineapple beer batter mixture. puree until well- 3. Carefully lower the combined. battered shrimp onto hot oil. Cook until FOR THE SHRIMPS golden brown and 1. Mix cornstarch, rice transfer directly over flour, ½ cup flour, some kitchen paper to salt, and baking soda avoid excess oil. together. Add beer to 4. Serve with piña the dry mixture while colada dip.

breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 19 ReaL FOOD: Coconut

COCONUT ALFREDO CHICKEN PASTA

Preparation time: 20 minutes Cooking time: 20 minutes Serves 4

Ingredients • 400 grams • 8 ounces cream cheese fettuccine noodles • 2 cups coconut milk • 200 grams • 6 ounces chicken breast parmesan cheese • salt and pepper, to taste • pinch of salt • ½ cup butter, salted • 2 tablespoons butter • 1 teaspoon garlic

Procedure 1. Bring a large pot of was cooked, melt water to boil and remaining ½ cup salt generously. butter and cook with Add pasta and chopped garlic. Add boil according cream cheese in to the package and stir with a wire directions until al whisk until smooth. dente. Strain and Add coconut milk toss it with a bit of slowly whisking olive oil to avoid to smooth out the noodles from the lumps. sticking. 4. Stir in parmesan 2. Slice chicken breast cheese and salt. into ¼-inch thick Remove from heat strips. Season with when sauce reaches salt and pepper. desired consistency. In a skillet, melt 2 If the sauce becomes tablespoons butter. too thick, thin out Once melted, raise with milk until heat to medium high desired consistency. and cook chicken 5. Toss pasta and until browned and chicken in the sauce fully cooked through. and mix thoroughly. 3. In the same pot Garnish with where the chicken parsley.

20 breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 ReaL FOOD: Coconut

breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 21 ReaL FOOD: Coconut

COCONUT CARAMEL CREAM PUFFS Preparation time: 1 hour Baking time: 30 minutes Serves 10 to 20

Ingredients FOR THE COCONUT CREAM PUFF • 2 egg yolks • ½ cup salted butter • 1 whole egg • ½ cup water • ¼ cup cornstarch • ½ cup coconut milk • ¼ cup white sugar • 4 eggs • 2 tablespoons salted butter • desiccated coconut, for garnish • ¾ cup flour FOR THE COCONUT CARAMEL • 2/3 cup canned coconut FOR THE COCONUT PASTRY CREAM • 2/3 cup coconut sugar • 2 cups coconut milk • pinch of salt • ¼ cup white sugar • 1 tablespoon cornstarch Procedure FOR THE COCONUT 3. When the mixture comes to a CREAM PUFF boil and thickens, remove from 1. Preheat oven to 375ºF. Melt the heat. Stir in butter until it butter, water, and coconut milk is completely blended in. Pour to a rolling boil. into a heat-proof container 2. Stir in flour and stir vigorously and place a piece of plastic over low heat until mixture wrap directly on the surface to does not stick on the sides of prevent a skin from forming. the pan. Remove from heat and Chill before using. cool for a couple of minutes. 3. Beat in eggs one at a time with FOR THE COCONUT CARAMEL the mixture until it is smooth 1. In saucepan, warm up coconut and velvety. milk, coconut sugar, sea salt, 4. Pipe mixture onto a baking and cornstarch. sheet lined with a silicon mat or 2. Bring boil and remove parchment paper and dust with from heat. Cool down desiccated coconut. Bake until before serving. dry for about 20-25 minutes (depending on the size). 5. Cool cream puffs before filling.

FOR THE COCONUT PASTRY CREAM 1. In a medium bowl, whisk together egg yolks and whole eggs. Stir in ¼ cup sugar and cornstarch to the eggs until smooth. 2. When milk and sugar boils, drizzle it into the bowl with the eggs in a stream while mixing so that you don't cook the eggs. Return the mixture to the saucepan, and slowly bring to a boil, stirring constantly so the eggs don't curdle.

22 breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 Ninyo Fusion Cuisine is located at 66 Esteban Abada St, Loyola Heights, Quezon City. For inquiries, contact (02) 426-0301.

RECIPES by CHef niño laus oF ninyo fusion Cuisine PHoToGRAPHy by Justin de Jesus NoriSHoT o N LoNirvanaCATIoN AT ninyo fusion Cuisine ReaL FOOD: nori

NORI-CRUSTED RED MULLET, UDON WITH CHORIZO AND TUNA ROE, UMAMI BROTH Preparation time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 15 minutes Serves 1

Ingredients • 1 piece red mullet, cleaned • 1 tablespoon chorizo bilbao and filleted • 1 teaspoon garlic • tempura flour (follow package • 1 tablespoon olive oil instructions) • 15 grams tuna roe • ½ cup flour, for dredging • 1 wedge lemon • 1 sheet toasted nori FOR THE DASHI STOCK FOR THE SPICE RUB • 30 grams dashi kombu • 8 grams garlic powder • ½ cup bonito flakes • 8 grams paprika • 1 liter water • 8 grams togarashi • 16 grams brown sugar FOR THE UMAMI BROTH • 2 tablespoons dashi stock FOR THE UDON NOODLES • 1 tablespoon sushi vinegar • 60 grams udon, cooked • salt and pepper, to taste Procedure 1. For the nori crust, roll the nori saucepan and bring back to boil. sheet like a cigar and seal by Remove from heat and allow to dabbing some water. Using cool. Strain the dashi broth. kitchen scissors, cut thin circles 5. Using a small saucepan, combine from end to end. all ingredients together. Let it 2. In a small bowl, combine cool until it starts to simmer, all spice rub ingredients and making sure not to boil. Turn off mix thoroughly. heat and set aside. 3. Using a heated sauté pan, render chorizo bilbao then add olive oil. TO ASSEMBLE Sauté garlic then add the tuna 1. Rub fish with spice rub. roe. Add udon and season with 2. Dredge the fish in flour, and dip lemon, salt, and pepper to taste. in tempura flour mix, then coat 4. To make the dashi stock, add in nori crust. water into an unheated saucepan. 3. Heat oil in a deep fryer. Deep fry Add the kombu and let it soak for the fish until cooked. Set aside. about 30 minutes until soft. Heat 4. In a bowl, place cooked udon saucepan and let it boil. Once noodles in the center, then top it boiled, remove the kombu and with the nori-crusted red mullet prevent the stock from becoming fish. Drizzle umami broth on the bitter. Add bonito flakes into the side. Serve hot.

24 breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 ReaL FOOD: nori

breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 25 ReaL FOOD: nori

SUSHI-STYLE TIGER PRAWN ROLL Preparation time: 1 hour Cooking time: 15 minutes Serves 2 to 4

Ingredients Procedure • 375 grams prawns 1. Clean, peel, and devein lemon, salt and pepper. top. Slowly roll like • 25mL all purpose cream prawns. In a food Set aside. sushi, making a bigger • salt and pepper, to taste processor, add prawns 4. On the half nori sheets, roll and seal with a dab • olive oil and all purpose cream, spread crab mixture of water. Repeat process • 2 ½ tablespoons white season with salt and thinly on the lower for all nori sheets. Set onion, minced pepper. Blend into a end. Start rolling aside in the chiller. • 2 tablespoons garlic, minced smooth paste. and seal with a dab 6. Cut prawn rolls • 2 tablespoons red bell 2. Move prawn mixture of water. Repeat the into sushi size and pepper, chopped into a mixing bowl, process until all the dab it with Japanese • 2 ½ tablespoons cover and chill for at half nori sheets have mayonnaise. Bake in a celery, chopped least 1 hour. been rolled. Set aside. preheated oven, 350ºF • 1 tablespoon crab fat 3. In a skillet, add olive oil. 5. Remove prawn mixture for about 15 minutes. • 3 ¼ grams crab meat Sauté in order: onion, from the chiller then Serve hot. • ½ cup Japanese mayo garlic, red bell pepper, spread evenly on the • ½ cup guacamole celery, crab fat. Sauté rough side surface of the • 12 pieces nori (8 whole, for at least 5 minutes whole nori sheets. On 4 cut in half) then add coriander and the lower end, spread • 2 teaspoons cilantro, chopped 2 tablespoons Japanese guacamole horizontally • ½ piece lemon mayo. Season with and put a crab roll on

breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 27 ReaL FOOD: nori

Ingredients Procedure • 2 teaspoons 1. In a mixing bowl, 200 grams white sugar. JAPANESE vanilla extract combine grahams, nori, Mix thoroughly. TOFU • 125 grams butter, and 50 grams 4. Add silken tofu, sour cream, crushed graham white sugar. whole egg, and vanilla CHEESECAKE • 125 grams crushed Mix thoroughly. extract. Mix thoroughly. nori sheets 2. Line a pie mold with 5. Pour cheesecake mixture WITH NORI • 400 grams cream cheese aluminum foil. Transfer into the crust, using the CRUST • 250 grams white sugar the graham mixture to bain-marie technique. • 2 pieces Japanese silken form a thin crust (less 6. Bake in a preheated oven, Preparation time: 30 minutes tofu tube than half an inch in 200ºF for 2 hours. Cooking time: 2 hours • 100 grams soft height). Press firmly and Serves 10 unsalted butter evenly. Set aside. Editor’s Note: Bain-marie is the • 2 pieces whole egg 3. Using a paddle mixer, French term for water bath, similar • 1 pack sour cream combine cream cheese and with steam cooking.

26 breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018

Cio oel MauriP Hef n ood Grou RECIPES by C y by Justin de Jesus F tasteless f o ToGRAPH PHo Sriracha Shot on location at Hole In The Wall, Century City Mall, Kalayaan Ave., Makati City. For inquiries, Mayhemcontact (02) 801-1230. ReaL FOOD: Sriracha

SWEET AND SPICY SRIRACHA WATERMELON SALAD Preparation time: 20 minutes Serves 4 to 5

Ingredients FOR THE VINAIGRETTE • 1 tablespoon Sriracha • 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar • 1 tablespoon honey • ½ cup extra virgin olive oil • salt and pepper, to taste

FOR THE SALAD • 4 cups seedless watermelon, cut in bite-sized cubes • medium-sized red onion, finely sliced • 1 cup mixed greens • 1 handful squash seeds, roasted • ¼ cup feta cheese • small bunch of mint leaves Procedure FOR THE VINAIGRETTE Using a spatula, mix all ingredients until uniformly combined. Set aside. An easier way is to add all the ingredients in a squeeze bottle and shake to incorporate the vinaigrette.

FOR THE SALAD Add the watermelon, finely sliced red onions, mixed greens, and squash seeds into the bowl and crumble over feta cheese. Finish by roughly tearing the mint leaves over the salad. Serve with the vinaigrette.

breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 29 ReaL FOOD: Sriracha

ORANGE SRIRACHA ROASTED CHICKEN

Preparation time: 35 minutes Marination time: 24 hours Cooking time: 1 hour 30 minutes Serves 4

Ingredients FOR THE BRINE • ¼ cup olive oil • 4 cups water • 2 tablespoons Sriracha • 2 tablespoons orange juice • 2 tablespoons garlic concentrate • 1 pinch thyme powder • 4 tablespoons salt • 1 orange zest • 2 tablespoons Sriracha FOR THE ROASTED CHICKEN FOR THE ORANGE BUTTER • 1 whole chicken • ¼ cup unsalted butter, softened • salt and pepper, to taste • 1 tablespoon orange juice • rosemary sprigs concentrate • 1 Naval orange

Procedure FOR THE BRINE and pat dry with a paper 1. The secret to juicy roast towel. Generously massage chicken is the brine. To the Sriracha orange butter, make the brine, simply not only on the skin and combine all ingredients in the cavity of the chicken, and mix until the salt has but also in between the dissolved with the mixture. skin and the meat. 2. Brine the whole chicken in Season thoroughly with the mixture overnight for salt and pepper. up to one day. 3. Stuff the chicken cavity with rosemary and a scored FOR THE ORANGE BUTTER orange. Tie the chicken Using a spatula, mix all legs together using kitchen ingredients until uniformly twine to prepare it for combined. Set aside. roasting. 4. Roast for an hour and a FOR THE ROASTED CHICKEN half making sure to baste 1. Preheat the oven to 220°C. every 30 minutes for crispy 2. Take out the brined chicken flavorful skin.

30 breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 ReaL FOOD: Sriracha

breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 31 ReaL FOOD: Sriracha

CHOCOLATE SRIRACHA TART Preparation time: 45 minutes Cooking time: 1 hour 30 minutes Setting time: 6 hours Serves 10 to 12

Ingredients Procedure FOR THE CRUST FOR THE GRAHAM CRUST boil and remove cream and sugar with a • 1 ½ cups graham 1. Mix crushed graham from heat. whisk or with a kitchen crackers, crushed crackers, sugar, melted 3. Pour hot cream on top aid until stiff. • ⅓ cup brown sugar butter, and cinnamon of the chocolate and mix 2. Carefully fold in the • 6 tablespoons butter, melted until well-blended. with a spatula. If it is Sriracha until well- • ½ teaspoon cinnamon Press mixture into your not completely melted, combined but still tart molds. you can heat in the maintaining the whipped FOR THE FILLING 2. Let crust set in cold for microwave for several cream’s stiffness. Set • 2 cups dark chocolate at least 4 hours in the seconds until it achieves a aside and place on top of • 1 cup heavy cream refrigerator before using. smooth consistency. tarts after baking. • ¼ cup butter 4. Pour on top of the • 1 tablespoon Sriracha FOR THE FILLING chilled crust and leave 1. In a heatproof bowl, place in the refrigerator for at FOR THE WHIPPED CREAM dark chocolate pieces and least 2 hours. • ½ cup whipping cream set aside. • 2 tablespoons white sugar 2. In a saucepan, bring FOR THE WHIPPED CREAM • 1 tablespoon Sriracha cream and butter to a low 1. Whip the whipping

32 breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 t Pota RECIPESe bye CHef CHris de Jesus oF ProvenCianot PHoToGRAPHy by Justin de Jesus o w SHoT oN LoCATIoN AT ProvenCiano R S ha ps od ie s

Provenciano is located at 110 Maginhawa, Diliman, Quezon City. For inquiries, contact (02) 922 2736 ReaL FOOD: Sweet Potato

34 breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 ReaL FOOD: Sweet Potato

KAMOTE CROqUETTAS, VIGAN LONGGANISA, AT KESO WITH BAGOONG AIOLI Preparation time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 30 minutes Serves 10

Ingredients • 250 grams orange kamote FOR THE BAGOONG • 75 grams Vigan longganisa AIOLI SAUCE • 1000 mL vegetable oil • 40 grams mayonnaise • 25 grams flour • 5 grams garic • 1 egg • 1 teaspoon bagoong isda • 50 grams bread crumbs • 1 teaspoon honey • 75 grams cheese • ½ teaspoon kalamansi juice Procedure 1. Ready and prepare water for and breadcrumbs. One by one, put boiling the kamote. Clean and peel the ball-shaped croquettas into kamote and cut into chunks. Add the bowls of flour, followed by the into the boiling water until cooked. egg, and then the breadcrumbs. Set aside to cool. Carefully fry the breaded 2. Mash the boiled kamote croquettas in the frying pan until when cooled. golden brown. 3. Remove the longganisa’s skins 6. Mix all the sauce ingredients to and cook in a pan. Set aside in a prepare for the bagoong aioli sauce. strainer. 7. Assemble the fried croquettas with 4. Prepare another pan for frying in the bagoong aioli on the side in a medium heat. ramekin. You can opt to garnish 5. Prepare three small individual with a dash of paprika or chopped bowls for the flour, beaten egg, parsley before serving.

breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 35 ReaL FOOD: Sweet Potato

KAMOTE PICADILLO Preparation time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 45 minutes Serves 2 Ingredients • 100 grams beef sirloin • 2 cups beef stock • 1 teaspoon oil • pinch of Spanish paprika • 20 grams onion • 25 grams celery • 5 grams garlic • 100 grams kamote cubes • 30 grams tomatoes • salt and pepper, to taste • 1 teaspoon patis • 50 grams Vermecelli noodles • 1 chorizo de bilbao • 75 grams cabbage

Procedure 1. Slice the beef sirloin in add chorizo and soup thin cuts and tenderize by stock. Cover the casserole pounding. Set aside. for 30 minutes. 2. Prepare your casserole 4. Add paprika, celery, and in high heat. Add oil, diced kamote. Cover and one by one, cook the and cook for another sirloin until light brown 30 minutes. in color. 5. Add salt and pepper 3. Sauté the meat with to taste alongside onion, garlic, and Vermicelli noodles tomatoes in patis for and cabbage. Cook for about 15 minutes. Then another 10 minutes.

36 breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 ReaL FOOD: Sweet Potato

UBE YEMA BALLS Preparation time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 2 hours Serves 15

Ingredients Procedure • 100 grams ube, 1. Prepare and wash ube mixture into a nonstick a teaspoonful of the mashed thoroughly until clean. pan in low heat. mixture, shape into balls, • 1 can condensed milk Prepare a pot with water Continuously stir the and set aside. • 3 egg yolks enough to submerge the mix with a wood or 6. Prepare a small nonstick • 3 cups vanilla ube and cook until fork- silicon spatula until it pan enough to melt the • 50 grams white sugar tender. Peel, mash, and gets curdled. white sugar. Carefully set aside. 4. Add the mashed ube into dip the ball-shaped 2. In a mixing bowl, mix the custard mixture. Mix yema into the caramel condensed milk with egg together slowly until the mixture. Allow to cool yolks and vanilla. concoction solidifies. in a nonstick tray or a 3. Slowly mix the custard 5. While warm, take silicon mat.

breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 37 Tales Of

RECIPES by CHef Kalel CHan oF CHotto Matte TamarindPHoToGRAPHy by Justin de Jesus SHoT oN LoCATIoN AT CHotto Matte SPECIAL THANKS To Gwen Cariño, MiCHele MaGtoto AND CHEF franCes arellano

Chotto Matte is located at Ground Floor, Net Park, 5th Avenue, Bonifacio Global City, Taguig City. For inquiries, contact (02) 282 0442. ReaL FOOD: Tamarind

SHRIMP LIME CEVICHE

Preparation time: 15 minutes Serves 2 to 3

Ingredients • 8 pieces boiled FOR THE DRESSING shrimp, cubed • ¼ cup fresh tamarind • ½ cup cucumber, diced • 2 tablespoons vinegar • 1/3 white onion, • 1/8 teaspoon fresh thinly sliced lemon squeeze • ¼ red onion, thinly sliced • 1 teaspoon fresh • ½ pomelo, diced lime squeeze • 4 pieces cherry tomatoes, • ¼ teaspoon light soy sauce julienned • 1/8 teaspoon ginger, grated • 2 grams cilantro • 1/8 teaspoon garlic, chopped • 3 grams green chili • 1 teaspoon mirin • 2 teaspoons white sugar • ¼ teaspoon salt • A pinch of white pepper

Procedure 1. Combine all dressing ingredients into a bowl, stir until fully mixed then set aside. 2. Place all ceviche ingredients into a bowl. 3. Slowly stir in the dressing. Make sure all ingredients are well coated with dressing. 4. Serve chilled.

breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 39 ReaL FOOD: Tamarind

40 breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 ReaL FOOD: Tamarind

SATE BABI

Preparation time: 15 minutes Cooking time: 20 minutes Serves 2 to 3

Ingredients Procedure • 1 tablespoon soya oil 1. Heat oil in a pan then sauté garlic. • 1 teaspoon garlic, chopped 2. Add in pork together with all • 500 grams pork belly remaining ingredients. • 2 tablespoons peanut butter 3. Let it simmer until pork becomes tender. • 1 cup fresh tamarind 4. Set aside then let it cool. • 330mL Sprite 5. Cut pork into cubes then skewer. • 2 tablespoons white sugar 6. Grill for about 2 minutes. • pinch of white pepper Chef’s Note: Add water while simmering if the sauce gets too thick.

breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 41 ReaL FOOD: Tamarind

TAMARIND CHILI FLAN Preparation time: 15 minutes Cooking time: 20 minutes Serves 6

Ingredients Procedure • 5 pieces egg yolks FOR THE or llanera, put in low heat until tamarind • 1 cup evaporated milk TAMARIND FLAN caramelized sugar and gets soft and is well • 1 cup condensed milk 1. Combine egg yolks, flan mixture. incorporated into the • ¼ cup tamarind syrup evaporated milk, 5. Cover it with foil then syrup. Turn off heat. • pinch of calamansi zest condensed milk, and slow steam for about 20 3. Strain mixture using • 1 tablespoon white sugar tamarind syrup into to 30 minutes. a fine strainer then let • ½ teaspoon water a bowl. 6. Garnish with rock salt it cool. 2. Gently stir mixture and sliced red chili. FOR THE TAMARIND SYRUP in a circular motion • ½ cup white sugar until well-mixed then FOR THE SYRUP • ½ cup water set aside. 1. Combine sugar and • 80 grams fresh tamarind 3. In a small pan, make water in a pot. Simmer caramelized sugar using until sugar is fully FOR GARNISH white sugar and water. dissolved • ½ teaspoon rock salt Simmer until thickened. 2. Add fresh tamarind • 1 piece red chili, chopped 4. In a flan molder then let it simmer over

42 breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018

ReaL FOOD: man of the Hour The Long Way Home WoRDS by PaM Musni PHoToGRAPHy by Karlo CadanG SHoT oN LoCATIoN AT 25 seeds, anGeles, PaMPanGa

hen you enter 25 Seeds, there’s a certain quaintness in the atmosphere. The kind that appears to tell you that you Wbelong here: take a seat, have a glass of water or something to drink. You are home, the walls emanate, all in their well-polished sheen and sunlit splendor. And for a moment, you forget that you are in a restaurant—instead, you are back home, lounging in the living room with some loved ones. Right now, however, 25 Seeds serves as the venue for today’s interview. I take a seat at one of the tables next to the windows, and across from me sits Chef Sau himself, fresh from the kitchen. At once relaxed and alert, he seems well at home with the surroundings, sitting with the poise of someone who has gone through years of fulfillment. And indeed, he has—with more than two decades’ worth of culinary experience, his career seems to span various eras, each tied to a period of his life. breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 45 ReaL STORieS: man of the Hour

But while he has now schools, and work with delved into his Angeleño Michelin-starred chefs.” roots with his restaurant There was one chef in concepts—among other particular he admired, having things—it wouldn’t be learned from him the most. strange to imagine it could’ve “[During my stay in Manila], gone otherwise, given the I met a German chef named "It wasn't a bed of roses. It various turns Chef Sau’s Jan, and I really looked up career had taken and his to him,” he said. “The way was tough..." unorthodox approach to he puts the food in the plate, things. And as we talk a little the way he talks, parang more about his experiences, everything is music to my there is one place that would ears. Kahit pinapagalitan ako, cement him as the Chef Sau kahit ni-lalash out ako, it we know today: France. sounded so beautiful. And I was learning a lot from him.” worked in Michelin-starred PursuinG tHe dreaM After moving to Nevada, restaurants. I had a beautiful Chef Sau met with Chef Jan life,” he said, with an air of Shortly after the again, where the opportunity wistfulness. “I became more eruption of Mt. Pinatubo had presented itself. “He refined, I became more in 1991, Chef Sau and his said, ‘Hey, do you want to resilient, I became bolder, I family migrated to the go to France? Because I’ve became more open to new States to avert the disaster. seen your gift for cooking things. And because mag- However, even as they and your passion for it,’” said isa lang ako sa France, I were residing in Las Vegas, Chef Sau. Upon hearing became more independent.” Nevada at the time, his this invitation, no second As for what had kept him sights were already on thoughts came to his mind. going through the hard other horizons. “France He agreed immediately. times, Chef Sau attributes was always the dream,” he “I said, ‘Yeah, that’s a it to his positive outlook said. “I thought [to myself] good opportunity to me.’ on things. “I could’ve given that [Las Vegas] was not a And that started it all.” up easily, imagine that? good playground for me… When people look at you everyone wants to become exPlorinG tHe world as an Asian guy, a Filipino a good chef and have a na walang alam, they see very good background in He found himself in Nice, you as a poor guy,” he said. French cuisine.” France, with an introductory “But I am very persistent. I Actually getting to period that could be deemed dream big. And somehow, I France, on the other bittersweet. “It wasn’t a bed achieve my dreams.” hand, was a combination of roses. It was tough, just But, more importantly, of serendipity and hard like the movie Ratatouille—[I France had opened a whole work. Prior to moving to would] get bullied, I would new realm of experience for the US, Chef Sau had been cry, I would soak myself, him, something he would working in Manila alongside I would call my mom,” he take along even after leaving. international chefs, where said. “But in the end, it’s “It was in France that all my he would get first-hand like [you’re] going through senses came alive,” he said. lessons on certain cooking military camp. You go This was particularly true techniques. “I always wanted through the training, and when it came to travel, an to learn from my chefs. It’s [the] people [around you] important aspect when it something that the school want to make sure for the comes to Chef Sau’s creative cannot teach you,” he said. best and the worst to come.” process. While he enjoyed “I don’t come from a very And he did, eventually. traveling prior to coming rich family, [so I could not Taking the opportunity to to France, it was there that go] abroad and study in learn the language and study his desire to see the world different [culinary] schools, further, Chef Sau would go had intensified. “I said [to so I thought [to myself] on to stay in France for 7 myself,] ‘This is just the first that I would learn from more years, noting it as some step.’ I wanted to proceed, I these European chefs, since of the most fulfilling in his wanted to explore, I wanted they had the chance to life. “I learned the ropes, I to be an expat, I wanted to live abroad, study in those learned from the masters, I travel,” he said. “Parang,

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breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 47 ReaL STORieS: man of the Hour

when you’ve seen France, But it’s only through you want to see the rest of immersing yourself through the world and what it can these aspects of life that you offer you.” gain experience—a valuable And he’s traveled a lot resource to Chef Sau. “And since then, having visited that’s the beauty of it. I over 40-45 cities total. For always encourage students him, after all, traveling is a to go abroad, to find their classroom—that is, as long [own] way, [and] to discover as you are willing to open and look around.” yourself up to it and the pitfalls it may offer. “There CoMinG HoMe are some places I would go back to. Others, never again. Having spent a good chunk of his life abroad and a flair for discovery, it seemed improbable to pin Chef Sau down—more so back in the Philippines. He himself affirmed the sentiment. “After having lived abroad—Paris, "travel and Singapore, Bangkok; these are beautiful places—I experIence thought I wouldn’t come are a few back anymore,” he said. “Wala pa [noon] yung thIngs you pagka-nationalist ko.” But cannot buy." while it in was no part due to a diminishing love for Philippine cuisine, it stemmed more from his desire for beautiful cities. After a while, however, the urge to come back slowly crept in, as he realized it was back home where he belonged. “Even if you But I have no regrets, because think that you’ve lived a travel and experience are a beautiful life as an expat few things you cannot buy,” abroad, you’d want to come he said. back only because you It’s also helped that want to share [what you’ve he’s got a taste for the learned] and reconnect with unconventional, not being people,” he said. one to follow the norm. It was more of a surprise When it comes to visiting when he decided to return to places, for instance, he cites his Pampanga hometown, as that he would rather head the death of both his parents to places like Tibet, Siem left an indelible mark on the Reap, or Dhaka, despite the area. But much like his ticket relative poverty that exists to France, the road home was in these areas. “When you also steeped in serendipity. “I go out and see [these social went back to Pampanga with realities] from a distance, some friends. Then I saw this you see what reality is,” he little house and said, ‘Hey, noted. “Kasi kung dito ka that’s a cute house.’They said, lang, you won’t see what’s ‘Do you want it?’” he recalled. [really] going on.” “And I said, ‘What would I

48 breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 ReaL STORieS: man of the Hour

breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 49 ReaL STORieS: man of the Hour

do with that house?” And they said, ‘Don’t you think it’s about time that you do some Kapampangan food?’ Hindi na siya naalis sa utak ko.” Going back home turned out to be the best thing that ever happened in his life. Aside from being able to continue his advocacy for local, sustainable cuisine

"the food that we create has storIes to tell. It's very personal."

through his ingredients, Chef Sau had the opportunity to serve guests in his Pampanga concepts, only to find out they had already known each other before. “[They] would say, ‘Hey, we were neighbors before, we were playmates, we were classmates,’ or ‘I was your yaya, I was your teacher.’ And it brings back memories,” he said. “That’s the best part—reconnecting with people.” Food in particular proved to be instrumental the food that we create opportunity to give back, to it’s through teaching or in relating with the other has stories to tell. It’s very share what he had learned through collaborating with guests, being a powerful tool personal.” If the pursuit for with those who are willing. his chefs in the kitchen. when it comes to forging good food, then, is what “Just like a sponge, hungry In terms of muses, connections. “When [I] started him on his journey, for water: you take it all in however, his sights have cook something, people it was also what had brought until you’re full, and then now shifted elsewhere. realize, ‘I know this food! him back home. it’s time squeeze [it all out,]” Today, he immerses himself This is Imang Garding’s Indeed, one could say he said. He’s a firm believer in the land where he had recipe. Are you related to that Chef Sau’s culinary in giving back, after all; a grown up, reacquainting this person?’ And I would journey is one that had come sentiment that forms the himself with its intricacies. say, ‘Yeah, she’s my mom,’” in full circle. But he’s not backbone of his success and Pampanga now serves as his said Chef Sau. “So food is taking it as a setback—on the his advocacies. And he’s still canvas. And Angeles City is very important. Because contrary, he looks at it as an constantly learning, whether his museum.

50 breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 ReaL STORieS: man of the Hour

breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 51 ReaL STORieS: Cover Recipe

You can order the dish at 25 Seeds, 2/F Dycaico Ancestral House, Barangay Sto. Rosario, Angeles City, Pampanga

52 breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 ReaL STORieS: Cover Recipe

RED SNAPPER SOUS VIDE WITH COCONUT TAMARIND AND CAPER SAUCE RECIPE by CHef sau del rosario PHoToGRAPHy by Bert santos

Preparation time: 15 minutes Serves 2 to 3

Ingredients • 1 kilogram red snapper • 2 tablespoons olive oil (maya-maya), filleted and • 4 tablespoons onion, minced cut into pieces • 4 tablespoons garlic, minced • 4 tablespoons red onion • 4 tablespoons coriander • bay leaf • 2 tablespoons ginger, minced • cracked peppercorn • 2 tablespoons lemongrass • 12 tablespoons extra • 6 pieces fresh tamarind virgin oil • 2 pieces red chili, chopped • 6 teaspoons garlic, minced • ½ cup white wine • 6 tablespoons coriander, sliced • 2 cups fish stock • 6 tablespoons coconut cream • ½ cup coconut milk • ½ cup fresh cream FOR THE SAUCE • salt and pepper, to taste • 4 tablespoons coconut oil • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Procedure

1. To make the stock, use head and bones of the snapper. Simmer with water, red onion, bay leaf, and peppercorn. Strain. 2. To sous vide the fillet, set the sous vide machine to 135ºC. In a Ziploc plastic bag, add fish and the other ingredients. Seal. 3. When the water bath reaches the temperature, dip the plastic with fish for an hour to cook. Set aside.

FOR THE SAUCE 1. In a pan, sauté the onion, garlic, coriander, ginger, lemongrass, coconut oil, and olive oil. 2. Add tamarind and mix with the rest of the ingredients. 3. Add white wine until reduced to half. Add stock and simmer for another 5-7 minutes. 4. Add creams and cook for another 5 minutes under low temperature. When cooked strain and add the butter. Season. 5. Garnish and serve.

breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 53 DINING THE 210 DEGREES WAY WoRDS by arraH BaluCatinG PHoToGRAPHy by Karlo CadanG SHoT oN LoCATIoN AT 210 deGrees KitCHen + drinKery, BGC ReaL STORieS: Brand Talk

contribution to the exciting culinary renaissance taking place here. Truth be told, this wasn’t planned beforehand. The opportunity fell, somehow by chance, in the right time and the right place. The chic bistro is the culmination of Chef William’s culinary journey. It’s his way of transporting his slice of life—his years growing up in France—and presenting it to Manila as a true blue introduction of himself. Heather explains further, “The idea is like when he welcomes someone over to his house. This is what you would see as a guest when you go to his place. This is his personal taste, what he likes to eat on his days off, the things that he would personally serve and sit down to eat together with you.” More than anything, this is a passion project that seeks to speak volumes of personal tales. Upon et’s set the record straight Before William Mahi eventually entering, one would feel as if the once and for all: This is not forged onto this territory, he found walls were about to speak and Lfine dining. his home as Chef de Cuisine in ready to burst with stories. Every While naysayers would shake The Tasting Room, after a series inch of the space is bursting with their heads and click their tongues of renowned stints from all over homey detail. There are mismatched at this revelation, this is the point the world from his hometown in cutleries parlayed on every table, Chef William Mahi would like France to where he met the love of and even the glasses have different to get across. Heather Mahi, his his life in Shanghai. When we met hues, almost as if you were invited wife and co-owner of 210 Degrees him then, he saw Manila as the next to dine on Mahi’s childhood home Kitchen + Drinkery, echoes the it dining destination set to take the from miles away. On one wall, a huge same sentiment, “We dare not put world by storm. portrait of Serge Gainsbourg would ourselves in that category.” Instead, Fast forward to 2018 and this has be seen (as it turns out, he was a what 210 Degrees aspires to exude is never been more true—what with very famous French public figure, a “fun” dining. It’s what happens when the number of head-turning quality singer who lived in ’85). On another, comfort food meets the mind of a establishments springing up like a roadmap of the places of Chef Michelin-starred chef. daisies. And 210 Degrees is his first William’s gastronomical pursuits

breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 55 ReaL STORieS: Brand Talk

would be displayed. All over the place, there would be several ingredients preserved neatly in jars of vinegar—a homage to a way of life from the defining era of France’s past that was laden with war. "sure, we use the fInest products from The food fares being served are the pinnacle: 90 percent of france. but thIs Is not fIne dInIng." French techniques authentically based on the French lifestyle. The elegance and artistry of their cuisine is definitely there, but Chef William would repeatedly reiterate his stance, “In our history, since centuries ago, we have been quite known for expressing For starters, the menu covers a of The Egg, a luscious soup- ourselves and showing that to the variety of eclectic dishes as well as like concoction cooked at 48 °C, world, and maybe this is where the comfort food favorites reimagined. and made even more delectable misconception comes from. Sure, His signature 52-degree egg from with potato mousse, caramelized we use the finest products from his Tasting Room days makes a onions, and bacon. His too-good- France. But this is not fine dining.” reincarnation here in the form to-be-true rendition of foie gras

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breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 57 ReaL STORieS: Brand Talk

from a few years back also makes an appearance, albeit modified to be the fun quirky sister of its previous mold—the infamous dish with actual bits of popcorn. Then, there’s the more casual laidback counterparts, like the fried chicken that everyone in town has been raving about. Chef William himself couldn’t believe that his version of it would even make Since its inception, there have waves, given that it’s definitely not been many changes that took the expertise of a French-Basque place. A significant one would be chef. He brings his trademark the restaurant’s branding, which plating with him here as well, Heather explained, “With our simplistic works of art that uphold branding now, it’s very fluid. We the experience of the plate. started out very fixed but the

58 breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 ReaL STORieS: Brand Talk

"wIth our brandIng now, It's very fluId."

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yin and yang, balancing each other harmoniously. Considering that this is the first time they’ve really worked together in their 10 years of blissful romance, everything has moved like clockwork. While William handles the kitchen, it’s Heather that serves as the

"I have a lot of thIngs I would lIke to do. I don't want to be defIned In one lInear lIne. I have a certaIn knowledge In my job and I want to be able to put that out."

centerpiece, mediating the kitchen and the service, and ensuring a smooth flow on both ends. At the end of the day, 210 Degrees not only signifies what Chef William Mahi deems as the perfect roasting temperature, it becomes his transcendence from the shackles of being pigeonholed as a Michelin-starred chef with only a singular expertise. This is him showing the world he can do so much more, “I have a lot of things I would like to do. I don’t want to be defined in one linear line. I have a certain knowledge in market changes quickly. We change would be priced below 1,500 pesos— my job and I want to be able to put with the times but we stick to the an unusual pricing move). that out,” he muses. overarching theme of elevating A year in and 210 Degrees And if the constant clinking of comfort food.” The menu followed Kitchen + Drinkery shows no signs the mismatched glasses, the eager suit with its timely addition of ala of slowing down. Indeed, it has scraping of cutleries against plates, carte items. The price range was become a notable dining destination and the ‘community’ aspect to the also created with price-quality in itself. Its success can be attributed bistro that can be felt reverberating balance in mind, and the ability to to many but if anything, it’s the fact underneath the dimmed lights are cut across income brackets (For that William and Heather— the ever any indication, 210 Degrees Kitchen instance, you would be surprised dynamic husband and wife duo—run and Drinkery is well on its way to how their five course set menu a tight ship. They are each other’s the stars.

60 breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018

ReaL STORieS: essays

composed of talented cooks who each have a distinct style and expertise. In the Crafting a Taste: How do Top case of Tomatito, Chef Carlo shared that there are some who are knowledgeable Manila Restaurants Curate in Thai cuisine, others in WoRDS by triCia Quintero Singaporean flavors, and PHoToGRAPHy by norMan lleses of course the majority who their Dishes? ILLuSTRATIoN by tiMotHy diao know the Filipino palate. He deduces, “Our kitchen is a team; it’s not only me.” ehind every putting something out on needs while coming out For Hey Handsome, Chef spectacular the menu is that it has to with something new each queenee and partner Chef Brestaurant are be liked by everyone on time. While they may have Nicco Santos spearhead the the chefs oozing with the team. their staple dishes, these flavors most of the time culinary ingenuity—the restaurants constantly while their cooks show them people responsible for the Go Beyond change their menu to techniques to better harness dishes we can’t seem to broaden their diners’ palate it. Chef queenee thinks get enough of. Just how Coming up with and showcase everything that “more heads are always are they able to come dishes is no easy task, and they have to offer. better than one (or two)”. up with their culinary sometimes, there will be There really is no Meanwhile, the Made Nice masterpieces? Here, we days when you don’t know surprise then why Made chefs each have their forte— take a closer look and where to get your idea Nice Supper Club changes be it for pastas, proteins, or piqued into the minds of from. Always remember their menu every three to desserts. As Chef Jack puts it, the people behind three that there is a whole world four months, Tomatito they like to “play with each of Manila’s most popular outside of the kitchen to gives a different take other’s strengths.” restaurants—Chef Carlo take inspiration from. on their salmon dishes Crafting a dish—more Franco of Tomatito, Chef This may be in the form every week, and Hey so a menu—is no easy task, Jack Flores of Made Nice of traveling—Peranakan Handsome continues but these chefs showed that Supper Club, and Chef cuisine of Singapore was to give their customers there’s no magic in it, just queenee Villar of Hey the inspiration behind Hey something new to look the right combination of Handsome. Handsome as Chef queenee forward to. For instance, the things already existing Villar attests to, “Traveling for Chef Jack, Made Nice around you: vision, people, GuidinG PrinCiPles helps you realize that Supper Club is all about and inspiration. there’s a whole lot of other continuous evolution, While the three chefs cuisines out there.” It could “We’re in a constant state have different approaches even be through the people of development and we on the tastes of their dishes, you meet while learning embrace that.” Chef Carlo they all underscored the from other cultures, as says it’s important to play importance of having an Chef Jack Flores shares with what you know first overarching mantra when when he spent some time then being creative from it comes to creation. These working in New York and there. For Chef queenee, mantras encompass what France prior to establishing meanwhile, change is their restaurants stand for Made Nice Supper Club. necessary when something’s and serve as guidelines One can also come up with not working out. to every member of their dishes through completely kitchen to ensure that unrelated fields like CollaBorate and every aspect forms a architecture—something innovate cohesive experience for that inspired Chef Carlo their customers. For Chef Franco when he created his All these three Carlo, it’s all about getting lego-shaped chocolate cake restaurants’ teams are out of your comfort zone, way back. The Tomatito “For Tomatito, it’s about chef says he seeks to finds being adventurous, but inspiration everywhere, also following the line of even from reading books Spanish-Latin cuisine.” For and magazines. Made Nice Supper Club’s Chef Jack, it’s imperative eMBraCe CHanGe to break some rules and be different. Meanwhile, Hey In the ever dynamic and Handsome’s Chef queenee competitive food industry, says their number one restaurants must always be guiding principle before ready to adapt to customers’

breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 63 ReaL STORieS: essays

aw seafood is a timeless Rdelicacy that allures anyone with its rawness—even putting multicultural diversity on its knees because of its mouthwatering flavors. During ancient times, feudal lords demanded their fish served as fresh as possible. Because of distance and transportation limitations, fish had to be carried through various runners and had to travel for hours before arriving at its destination. This tedious process causes the fish to lose its freshness. To combat such dilemma, cooks have experimented with various techniques. Thus, resulting to the creation of one of the most common raw seafood we know today: sushi—a type of fermented fish (or meat) prepared with rice for the purpose of preservation and can be consumed without too much processing. Contrary to popular belief, sushi did not originate from Japan. Historians believe that the very first written record of the existence of sushi started with China’s Tang Dynasty (618–907 CE) where people with only good economic status could eat raw fish and meat along with raw fruits and vegetables. Sushi only appeared in Japan in the Beneath The pleasures Heian Period (794–1185 CE) right after raw fish had officially become a delicacy in China. of Eating Raw Seafood Today, hundreds of restaurants, stalls and WoRDS by danG futalan buffets offer raw seafood PHoToGRAPHy by MiGuel naCianCeno as part of their menu. But ILLuSTRATIoN by tiMotHy diao as the food scene matures SPECIAL THANKS To Professor Kevin CarPio and experiences different trends that come and go, oF university of santo toMas consumers have grown from romanticizing what

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is pleasurable to one’s an accelerated process sensation during or after palette to emphasizing where fish are frozen eating the contaminated the unobtrusive: is it safe immediately. They are seafood – a sign which to eat? caught and harvested means that the worm is “Nutrition-wise, to preserve freshness moving in the affected seafoods are rich in and texture. More area, usually the mouth protein, omega 3-fatty importantly, to kill any or throat. If this parasite acids, saturated fat, potential parasites present. reaches the stomach iron, vitamin B and However, studies show or the small intestine, mineral. The answer as that the ultimate method surgery would be needed. to whether it is safe to to eliminate parasites and Symptoms of Anisakis eat or not lies on how it microorganisms that have penetration include is prepared. If the raw contaminated seafood is nausea, vomiting, stomach seafood has undergone not freezing but cooking pain and diarrhea. the necessary procedures or heating food at a Liver flukes are no within the standards of suitably high temperature. stranger in the parasite- host relationship of eating raw seafood. These flatworm parasites use the livers of infected humans as their main habitat where they feed on The answer as to whether blood. Symptoms would include an enlarged liver, gallbladder inflammation, it is safe to eat or not gallstones, bile duct infection and may even lead to liver cancer. lies on how it is prepared. Aside from making one’s body prone as a habitat to parasites, eating raw seafood increases the risk of food poisoning with symptoms including an food sanitation and proper Each raw seafood dish upset stomach, diarrhea, preparation, then it would is a do-or-die gamble nausea and vomiting. be safe to eat,” explains in every step of the Children, pregnant Kevin Carpio, Registered preparation process. If a women, the elderly, HIV Dietitian Nutritionist. dish is mishandled at any patients, and anyone with However, some part of the course, Kevin a weak immune system businesses prefer to stresses that it becomes a should avoid eating take out this criterion life-threatening carrier of raw seafood as they fall to compromise for their severe foodborne illnesses. under the “high-risk lack of resource which is “For raw shellfish individuals” category why taking note of the lovers, it pays to and can be considered precautions of eating raw know about Vibrio as easier targets for the seafood is key to safety. vulnificus and Vibrio aforementioned hazards. Sushi-grade should be in parahaemolyticus. Both of People who take 'au one’s vocabulary when these bacteria can cause naturel' too literally when it comes to raw seafood. gastroenteritis, with it comes to consuming “Sushi-grade” refers to the symptoms that include raw seafood may expose highest quality fish that severe vomiting, diarrhea, themselves to higher a particular store offers, abdominal cramps, fevers, risks. With all these one that they feel most and chills.” culinary innovations confident to be served Roundworms are where sky’s the limit, it raw. Also, it is best to eat also infamous in the raw is crucial to know the at reputable restaurants seafood industry. Anisakis components of what we who take pride in the simplex is a roundworm eat and the risks of doing quality of their products parasite found in fish and so. At the end of the day, by getting high quality shellfish. Once the parasite savoring the pleasure of seafoods from suppliers enters the human body, flavor will always come that flash freeze fish— the host will feel a tingling with a price.

breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 65 The Contemporary Flavors

WoRDS by Muriel dizon PHoToGRAPHy by Karlo CadanG SHoT oN LoCATIoN AT susHi nori o f S PECIAL THANKS To MilKa roMero AND vina saw Sushi

t was during the 8th century when the art of making sushi became prevalent in Southeast IAsian countries. Years later, it eventually reached south of China and Japan.Throughout time, the Japanese have developed, popularized, and even perfected the art which later became essential to their cuisine. Today, sushi can be considered one of the most popular dishes around the world. This issue, we sat down with the makers of Sushi Nori, a new cult favorite when it comes to the "on-the-go" food trend, and discovered the ropes of their innovative ways of sushi-making. REAL STORIES: Gastronomy Confidential

with the idea of serving sushi as a roll, practitioners of the art introduced a quirky way of presenting it and called it the ‘uramaki’ or the inside- out roll. Compared to the typical rolls, the urumaki is made with rice placed on the outer side of the roll with the nori and filling on the opposite side. though uramaki is not new to the table, sushi nori experimented with a variety of ingredients to enrich its flavors.

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adapting the fast- paced lifestyle of most people, especially millennials, sushi nori devised a non-sit down way of enjoying sushi by recreating their own temaki rolls.

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this temaki roll is called okonomiyaki. it is made up of nori, teriyaki sauce, tamago, kani, rice, Japanese mayo, spring onions, and bonito flakes.

Because the idea is for it to be a take out sushi, they designed the packaging to consider hassle-free eating for on-the-go customers.

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this uramaki is called ‘oMG’. it is one of their go- to flavors made of salmon, nori, tempura flakes, rice, cucumber, ebiko, Japanese mayo, and spring onions. this uramaki is served with salmon that’s blow-torched on top!

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while sushi nori isn’t afraid to be a little different, their menu still offers traditional sushi dishes such as nigiri, maki, and sashimi, served in a myriad of flavors fit for everyone.

breakfast maGazine | aPRiL - maY 2018 71 ReaL STORieS: Food Trip off the wall: UNCoNvENTIoNAL RESTAURANT WoRDS by trisH duMlao FINDS IN THE METRo

1 van GoGH is BiPolar Embrace your imperfections and treat it as your strength—is probably one way to describe how this restaurant in Maginhawa started. If you’re wondering, Jetro saw it apt to have Van Gogh’s bipolarity as a 2 theme for the restaurant as he was diagnosed to have the same condition. A quaint place full of visual treats, and where servers don’t exist. Expect a feast that changes every time you visit, depending on the owner’s mood, along with dishes that always promise to leave you in better spirits. 2 PersePHone: a seasonal KitCHen A place that took inspiration from the goddess who’s the reason for the shift of seasons. Don’t be surprised if their menu changes every now and then, as this restaurant along Jupiter Street in Makati makes use 1 of seasonal ingredients and plays with market trends. With its growing collection of recipes, one thing’s probably for sure—Persephone is all about putting your usual dishes up the ante. Case in point: try their bowl of colorful bibimbapesque Tapsilog before it's 3 too late. 3 B.a.d. late niGHt BreaKfast Bar Who said you can’t have breakfast for dinner? In b.A.D., it’s all about breaking rules. breakfast fares might be best eaten in the morning, but it’s definitely not a bad idea to have it at any time of day (or night) too. While usual breakfast tables are bright and homely, this breakfast bar in bGC defies the ordinary—it’s dark and dramatic, almost club- like. Their menu is extraordinary too, with familiar breakfast dishes made with a twist. Take our word for it and order the Chillaxilog or the Tapa Steak. It’s the best bad decision we’ve made! 4 4 yuan Bistro If you’re a fan of Asian fusion, then this restaurant in Kapitolyo is perfect for you. And we’re not just talking about the popular Japanese, Chinese, or Thai creations we’ve all been acquainted to as they also explore the less-tasted Asian flavors. Think India’s chicken tikka masala, or Singapore’s laksa soup made 5 into a more thrilling dish. yuan bistro is also known for their Do-It-yourself sushi set. How about creating and indulging in your own sushi dreams? We couldn’t think of a better experience than that. 5 Mr. roBoto Voltes V, Mazinger Z, Gundam, and Voltron are only few of the Japan-hailed robots that have become inspiration to this fresh avant-garde-ish Japanese restaurant in Alabang. From the brains of a millennial duo, the place and concept might be considered quirky, but the flavors and ingredients used still stay true to what you can usually get in Japan. Mr. Roboto has a wide array of Japanese fares you’d definitely have a hard time choosing. be it sashimis, chirashis, or donburis. Plus points for the retro vibes that’ll make your heart beat for nostalgia! 6 tHe fillinG station This 24-hour, neon-lit diner along Poblacion is probably the best visual definition of what old school is. A place that seems to have stopped the passage 7 of time, The Filling Station boasts its vast collection of vintage items exhibited in all of its nooks and crannies. From posters to knick-knacks straight from the late 60’s, every corner is definitely IG-worthy. The good news? Their food is just as stirring, it’d be hard to choose what to get. but do try their milkshakes, and feel like you’re one of Archie’s gang from the TV 6 series, Riverdale. 7 satCHMi Café If you’re a café aficionado, you shouldn’t miss dropping by Satchmi. besides getting your usual Van Gogh is Bipolar 154-H Maginhawa Street, Sikatuna Village, Quezon City coffee fix, this place will bring you back to the olden Persephone: A Seasonal Kitchen 120 Jupiter Street, Bel-Air, Makati City days when vinyl records ruled the scene. Feel free to B.A.D. Late Night Breakfast Bar The Palace, 11th Avenue, BGC, Taguig City browse, buy, and listen to your favorite songs—from Yuan Bistro Victoria Plaza,1 Brixton Street, Kapitolyo, Pasig City classic choices to contemporary. but don’t forget Mr. Roboto G/F, ATC Corporate Center, Alabang, Muntinlupa City to indulge in their food too; for starters, go with the The Filling Station 5012 P. Burgos Street, Poblacion, Makati City Lasagna Soup, and discover how visits to this café Satchmi Café 2/F, Cinema Building, UP Town Center, Diliman, Quezon City will always be for the record.

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