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Share your favourite experiences and discover great new places to visit from POSITIVE VALUES, your trusted network. COMMUNITY-DRIVEN AND NO SELLING OF YOUR DATA. DOWNLOAD THE APP FOR FREE TIMEOUT.COM/LONDON October 27 ñ November 2 2020 No. 2598 Meet the chefs that beat lockdown

This is Willy. He makes pies Small £4 Iced Latte Ham & Cheese Toastie with a selected drink*

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*Buy (1) either a Small hot or cold iced beverage, cold brew coffee, tea, Iced tea, any drink from our Flat Family range or any pre-packaged soft drink (excluding Seasonal drinks, Frostino, fruit cooler ); and (2) either a Ham & Cheese Toastie (excluding Wiltshire variant), a Vegan Ham and CheeZe, Tomato & Basil Soup or Egg sandwich for £4. Upgrade your Small hot or iced coffee to a Medium for an extra 30p or to a Large for an extra 60p. Meal Deal available from 11am to 3pm in our participating UK stores from Thursday 3rd September to Monday 2nd November 2020 inclusive. Subject to availability. For a list of participating stores and full terms and conditions see costa.co.uk/terms. **Delivery, Mobile Order, and Order at Table services are available across selected stores only. IMAGES ILLUSTRATION: KIERAN GLENNON; MIGRATION MUSEUM: Y WLADFA, FROM DEPARTURES EXHIBITION - WELSH NATIONAL COSTUME 1911 © NATIONAL ARCHIVES/MATTHEW PLOWRIGHT; FOOD TOP CUVÉE, PHOTO GRAHAM TURNER found some really rather good ones Early-bird Early-bird menus: not just for coach Shopping Centre after Pick ’n’ Mix Gets the worm Island, the Museum of Migration, parties parties going to ‘Wicked’. We’ve ‘Departures’ The best thing in Lewisham has a great new show PAGE 32 PAGE 34 Inside 7 This issue ofTimeOut This issue City life in notimeatall 26 Exclusive offers

12 Global briefing 14 Chefs of lockdown 20 How to dine alone like a champ 23 Get highbrow! the transparent spectre of Yvette Fielding daemons, succubuses, rakshasas and UK trips to places riddled with ghouls, Most haunted 27 Things to Do 34 Food & Drink

PAGE 38 FEATURES AND REGULARS 3 highbrow how stuff: to digit,man Get your culture on complicated dance and other complicated danceandother 36 Love Local 38 Escapes 42 Film Noodly jazz,clever plays, Is this some kind of Golden Age for Brit PAGE 23 horror? horror? This council-estate refugee chiller suggests that maybe it is ‘His House’ Time Out London 2020 Time 2 November October 27 – PAGE 44

Hello, Advertising 7813 6000, [email protected] Circulation London [email protected] Global Editor-in-Chief Caroline McGinn London Editor Joe Mackertich Deputy Editor/Chief Joe Mackertich Sub Editor Chris Waywell Deputy Chief Sub Editor London Editor Sarah Cohen @j_mackertich Features Kate Lloyd (Editor) News & City Life Isabelle Aron (Editor) Events Katie McCabe (Editor), Alexandra Sims (Deputy Editor) Everyone’s a bit down in the dumps right now. Maybe ‘down in Film Phil de Semlyen (Global Editor) the dumps’ is an understatement. Maybe ‘emotionally paralysed by Culture Eddy Frankel and Andrzej Łukowski a nameless, creeping dread’ is more accurate. The future is an Editorial Assistant ill-defined, capricious shadowbeast at the moment, and nothing Django Zimmatore Global Commercial Editor messes with our collective sanity like uncertainty. Stephen Farmer Global Branded Content Editor Rose Johnstone So, for no other reason than to cheer you up, here’s a list of London Commercial Designer Julia Robinson things that still make me smile: when tube drivers mumble inaudibly Commercial Copywriter George Blew over the tannoy and everyone in the carriage looks at each other and Head of Digital Content rolls their eyes; the continued existence of Garfunkel’s; massive dogs Jordan Waller London Digital Director/ on public transport; anyone who refers to Gordon’s Wine Bar as ‘this Drink Editor Laura Richards Engagement Editor little place I know’; putting poppadoms under curries and crunching Sam Willis International Editor it all up at Mirch Masala; trying to work out if that couple on the next James Manning International Travel Editor table are on their first or second Tinder date; the fact that somehow Ellie Walker-Arnott International Commissioning there’s still a vintage pornography shop on the Holloway Road Editor Huw Oliver

Art Director Bryan Mayes Picture Desk Manager Ultimately, London itself still makes me smile. Not constantly. I don’t Ben Rowe Photographer Andy Parsons walk around grinning at car crashes, for example. But at a time like this Head of Production Dave Faulkner I think it’s vital to find a way – any way – to love the city you live in. Production, Admin and Sales I hope Time Out helps. Support Katie Mulhern-Bhudia Commercial MD EMEA Lawrence Horne Advertising Sales Ian Tournes (Director), Natalie Reynolds, Juliet Grant, Banbha O’Hagan, Nesha Fleischer, James Hooper, Robyn Eldridge, Emma Myland Creative Solutions THE EDITOR’S ESSENTIALS Three things you have to do in London Wayne Mensah (Director), Charlie Liddington, Nicola Foxwell Project Management Junior Olokodana (Project Management Lead), Nicki Wymer, Zara Taylor MD Global E-commerce Minesh Shah Time Out Group CEO Julio Bruno

Cover Food styling Lucy-Ruth Hathaway. DRINK this EAT here VISIT this Photography Andy Parsons Deya is another craft brewery Big Jo, the chic new eatery from I went along to Peckham Salvage I wholeheartedly endorse. Treat the geniuses behind Jolene and Yard and spent too much money on yourself to one of its big fancy cans. Westerns Laundry, is excellent. a Sonny Rollins album. A great time.

Time Out Digital Ltd 77 Wicklow Street, London, WC1X 9JY. @timeoutlondon facebook.com/timeoutlondon @timeoutlondon timeout.com/news www.timeout.com 020 7813 3000

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Time Out London October 27 – November 2 2020 4 Advertisement feature

Welcome to Page 5G! Tasty technology How 5G is transforming food

Each week, Samsung’s f you thought Willy Wonka’s three- 3D-printed birthday cakes ‘Whatever Next?’ podcast Icourse meal in a stick of chewing Here’s one that we think Mr Wonka gum was amazing, then we’ve got would approve of. Thanks to 5G, delves into all the just the podcast for you. ‘Whatever we’ll see a surge in companies unexpected ways that Next?’, hosted by Dr Hannah Fry like Culinary Printworks, who can 5G is already shaping and comedian Suzi Ruffell, gets to designyour ideal dessert, store it the heart of game-changing tech in the cloud, then print it as food. A TASTE OF our world. Turns out that innovations facilitated by 5G. All over There are helpful implications of the future could be very the world (including London), 5G is this: German company Biozoon WHAT’S TO appetising indeed… being used to make food production is helping elderly people who are more sustainable, humane and otherwise unable to eat solids by COME efficient. Oh, and more delicious… 3D-printing smooth, nutritious food into the shape of vegetables and Farms that can think pasta and chicken. One of the biggest challenges Thanks to 5G, your facing our world is the need to Drones delivering interconnected smart home produce more food on less land. takeaways of the near future will be able The answer is – you guessed it – 5G! Say goodbye to lukewarm kormas: to start heating your oven Super-fast data transmission will 5G is going to make tracking and before you get home, or even enable sensors to be placed around controlling fleets of drones an prompt your coffee machine farms and analyse everything from absolute breeze. Delivery drones to make a latte as soon as you quality of soil to river levels. In fact, are already a thing: Manna, an Irish jump out of bed. Also, earlier soil monitoring with 5G is already company, are hoping to roll out this year, Samsung developed being used in France and California robots which could deliver within the Bot Chef, which can slice, to improve the yield and quality of a 2km radius in less than three dice and stir at your every wine. Cheers! 5G has also started minutes. Now that’s fast food. command. You’ll be able to to be used to improve cow welfare make restaurant-quality meals in Somerset, with smart collars Listen to Episode 4: ‘5G connected in no time. Bon appetit! that can monitor their health and let cows’ on Spotify, Google Podcasts them choose when to be milked. and Apple Podcasts.

Tune into the ‘Whatever Next?’ podcast today!

City life

Edited by Isabelle Aron @timeoutlondon

Reflecting on the plight of pools

The impact of pubs and restaurants closing this year has been well documented, but what about leisure centres? We ask a pool-obsessed photographer what makes them special

WHEN MARSHALL STREET Baths (above) For many people, their local leisure centres are ‘There are definitely people that appreciate the opened in the middle of Soho in the s, its places of sanctuaries in the city – somewhere to buildings, but a lot of people don’t go there to aim was to provide facilities for Londoners who escape for a bit, to switch off. Someone who values look at the architecture. They’re so well used by needed somewhere to wash (both themselves the sanctity of swimming pools, possibly more the communities. That’s another lovely thing and their clothes). All these years (and a than most, is Edinburgh-based photographer Soo about being in the buildings – all the history they -year refurbishment) later, it’s still brimming. Burnell, who took this photo of Marshall Street hold, the clubs that use them, the kids having Marshall Street Baths – along with every other Baths in . It’s part of a project which involves swimming lessons.’ Burnell’s image is striking pool in the city – was forced to close in March photographing pools all over the UK; she started in part because of its stillness and lack of people, during lockdown, leaving its regulars high and in Edinburgh before making her way to London. but she hopes to celebrate how well-loved these dry, literally. Swimming pools got the green light ‘Marshall Street was top of my list’, she explains. places are too. ‘In my pictures, they’re quiet and to reopen in July, but things aren’t the same. ‘It’s such a beautiful pool – the floors are lined minimal but the reality of them is that they’re Better Gyms, which operates pools in London, with marble. I wanted to capture the vaulted echoey and children are screaming and people says attendance in September was at about ceiling reflecting on the pool, it creates almost a congregate there. They hold all these stories of the percent compared to last year. Some of its pools complete circle. It’s like an optical illusion.’ people that have been there.’ Isabelle Aron remain closed and they can’t operate at full Burnell loves these places for their aesthetics, This photo is in ‘Accidentally Wes Anderson’ by Wally Koval,

SOO BURNELL SOO IMAGES capacity because of social distancing measures. but she realises that’s not the appeal for everyone. published by Orion on Thu Oct 29, £25.

7 October 27 – November 2 2020 Time Out London City life

WHAT I OWE TO LONDON

‘I’d edit videos on the bus then upload them at work’ London comedian Mo Gilligan on how a gig at Dulwich Hamlet and a job at Levi’s Covent Garden paved the way for his career

CAMBERWELL-BORN MO GILLIGAN is a very Back then, it was a small local club and the people Performing on the West End was a huge deal. The modern comedian. He gained fame with his who came to the comedy night were just people Vaudeville Theatre was the first time my name character sketches of grime MCs and Essex from the local estate who had nothing else on. had been ‘up in lights’. We had a DJ and people lads, uploaded online while he worked at Levi’s went to the pub at pm before the show. You’d Covent Garden. Now, he’s done sold-out shows I didn’t have a conventional route into comedy. have thought it was a football match. It was cool to at Leicester Square Theatre, Netflix specials at I didn’t know where to go for it. Universities have my audience in a place you wouldn’t expect. Hackney Empire and fronted Channel shows. like London Metropolitan University and Roehampton would have Afro-Caribbean Society The Channel 4 building is iconic. I went to school in When you’re 15, London feels massive. I played events, so I’d message and ask if I could come Pimlico, so I’d walk past it. Years later, I remember football for a team called Southwark Youth. We’d down and do some stand-up. going in and them saying they wanted to give me all travel on a bus and go as far as Wandsworth, my own Friday night show. I remember the time, Tooting Bec or Hackney Marshes. Those places My first paid gig was performing at the Slug & the place, the weather. I’ve had career-changing felt like a million miles away. Lettuce in Soho, at the Sunday Show. It was a moments, but that was life-changing. young, predominantly Black audience. I was I feel more familiar with my surroundings in south years old and totally broke. I got paid , which London will always be home. I’ve been lucky to London. My dad was from Brixton and I’d often felt like a lot of money. It was a big deal for me. travel for tours, but there’s nothing better than visit him on weekends. There’s a big Caribbean flying in, looking over the city and realising you’re community there, from the Windrush days – and Working at Levi’s Covent Garden helped my home. Besides, I tried Popeye’s chicken in the my dad’s a Rastafarian, so he’d always get a lot of routines. I’d built up a name on the black States and it was rubbish. Nothing on Morley’s. respect walking down the high street. comedy circuit, but I was trying to break into the Interview by Bobby Palmer mainstream and worked part-time to pay the bills. Subscribe to Mo Gilligan’s channel at www.youtube.com/mogilligan. When I first got into comedy I was just mucking I started posting videos online: I’d film them at around. I got invited to do five minutes at a small home, edit them on the bus, then sneak into the comedy night at the Dulwich Hamlet clubhouse. changing room to upload them. The characters For more unique looks at London life,

It went well and I ended up doing minutes. were just the people I’d interact with every day. head to timeout.com/stories KONO YOSHITAKA PORTRAIT: IMAGES

Time Out London October 27 – November 2 2020 8

City life W RD E DI YP SH H Smokestak’s ‘perfectly O N T HE balanced’ brisket bun STREET D IS N S TI O The most ridiculous EC things we’ve overheard in What goes into the London plates London this week that everyone bangs on about

SMOKESTAK’S BRISKET BUN has been messy, so we started doing the brisket on the scene in some form since , bun,’ he says. ‘I’m not saying it’s the ‘Every time you put from the restaurant’s early street-food perfect dish but, to this day, I don’t think days to the DIY kit version released in we’ve managed to get a dish as perfectly your three fingers lockdown. Founder David Carter came balanced.’ He talks us through what in those three up with it on the festival circuit. ‘We makes it work. ■ Isabelle Aron holes, don’t you were doing smoked ribs but it was quite Smokestak. 35 Sclater St. £9.50. think “ooooh”?’ ‘Can you imagine The bun snacking on a Brazil ‘We work with a very small nut? They’re huge!’ The chillies Asian bakery which makes ‘We boil cider vinegar milk buns, but we don’t know ‘Always talking and sugar and let it cool the recipe. They’re a brilliant about the this vibe before adding red chillies. They vehicle – they retain the and the that vibe... barbecue sauce and keep abit of heat and a bit of Just be quiet!’ crunch but they’re milder beef fat.’ than if they hadn’t ‘He’s all brows and been pickled.’ no mouth.’ ‘He was a bit like Ronald McDonald towards the end.’ ‘I just feel sexier when I wear The dripping orange. Like a sexy ‘We trim the fat off the brisket and render it in tropical fruit.’ the oven. It makes it more ‘Balls mean nothing decadent. It’s like adding butter to pasta: it doesn’t to women, mate. need it but why would Absolutely nothing.’ you not use it?’ ‘I love matcha because it tastes The sauce like dirt.’ ‘It’s a classic barbecue ‘She’s definitely a sauce. We make huge vats ofit. To make a really good The brisket ’s baby. I’m older one,you need a pan with a ‘We smoke it for 12 to than her. Or she’s really big base. The bigger 14 hours. It breaks down, younger than me. surface area helps it all and it’s as much a texture as a One of the two.’ to caramelise.’ flavour. We use around 120g per bun.We’ve tried adding more but it throws off the balance.’ Overheard something weird? Tweet us #wordonthestreet

@timeoutlondon PARSONS ANDY IMAGES

Time Out London October 27 – November 2 2020 10

City life

Edited by James Manning timeout.com/travel @timeouteverywhere

YOUR WORLD ACCORDING TO TIME OUT

The best stories from our editors around the globe

Chicago has really nailed the whole outdoor-dining malarkey

USA entries were submitted, with USA Eating alfresco has been huge winning designs including cabins Central Park’s famous boathouse this summer. But in Chicago, that riff on ice-fishing huts, modular restaurant has been sunk we’ll soon be in for five months of blocks with a thermal mesh system If you’ve ever visited NYC, there’s a good chance bitter cold – and eating outdoors and heated tables inspired by you ate at the Loeb Boathouse – and if not, you’ve is going to become a whole lot Japanese kotatsu. Restaurants are definitely seen it on screen (it appeared in ‘When less appealing. That’s why the concerned about extra costs, but the Harry Met Sally’, among others). Now, tragically, city launched its unique Winter ideas are well worth a look – even for the tourist mainstay is closing its doors: Covid has Design Challenge, inviting ideas cities where winters don’t hit - C. stemmed the tide of visitors drawn to its one-of-a- to keep outdoor dining going in Emma Krupp, Time Out Chicago kind location by Central Park’s boating lake. The sub-zero temperatures. More than www.timeout.com/chicagodesigns restaurant hopes to reopen next year, but given the uncertainty, for now it’s ‘so long’ to an NYC AIYOSHI597/SHUTTERSTOCK AUSTRALIA: CARIBBEAN; ROYAL SINGAPORE: ASD/SKY; COURTESY CHICAGO:

institution. Collier Sutter, Time Out New York IMAGES

Time Out London October 27 – November 2 2020 12 City life

Get the latest from cities worldwide at timeout.com/news

FRANCE A chocolate orange hotel room is opening in the Alps Ever eaten too many Terry’s Chocolate Oranges and felt like crawling inside the box for a quick kip? Well, someone must have, because French ski resort Club Med La Rosière is letting guests stay in a hotel room inspired by the festive treat, including Terry’s-esque décor, chocolate-scented toilet paper and room service that includes orange-flavoured hot chocolate. It’s the stuff of sugary dreams and/or nightmares. Huw Oliver www.clubmed.co.uk/l/blog/chocolate-orange-hotel-room

SINGAPORE Cruising-starved travellers can now book a voyage to nowhere With a total area less than half the size of London’s, Singapore has been particularly hard- hit by the shutdown of international travel. But for those absolutely desperate to head overseas, things are finally looking up… kind of. From November, a Genting ship will set sail on round trips with no ports of call – cruises to nowhere – with a Royal Caribbean vessel following in December. Prices start from for a two-night ‘seacation’, with plenty of safety measures in play. Worth it? Maybe. Bad for the planet? Definitely. But don’t be surprised if avid cruisers make this one a sell-out. Dewi Nurjuwita, Time Out Singapore

AUSTRALIA Travel Down Under is off the cards for another year We already knew that Australia’s borders were likely to stay totally shut until at least the end of , but now comes a further blow to travellers and anyone waiting to be reunited with family ITALY and friends Down Under. The A lost Roman villa is welcoming its first Australian government has said guests in 2,000 years that international travel probably Putting your lockdown digs to shame, the remains won’t return until the very end of of a very posh ancient villa have been dug up in next year, with the federal treasurer Rome and are going on display for the first time. explaining that Australia will likely The so-called Domus Aventino was hidden wait for a vaccine to become widely beneath a block of equally luxurious modern- available before reopening its day flats, and includes lavishly decorated rooms borders. It’s more bad news for the with black-and-white mosaic floors. After several country’s tourism industry, already years of excavation, the villa (now in the block’s damaged in by wildfires. We basement) opens to the public next month. Toga promise to visit as soon as we can, party, anyone? Ellie Walker-Arnott mates! ■ James Manning

13 October 27 – November 2 2020 Time Out London Meet the new chefs Born from ’s furlough and financial disaster, these new culinary superstars of London’s restaurant scene are masters of transformation. Angela Hui meets them. Portraits Andy Parsons

2020 toppled dreams, but Londoners are adapting

Former Coya chef Jake Finn was just about to open his first restaurant Lila, when the pandemic hit

It was March when I was finally ready to sign for the space. It was supposed to be the payoff from years of sweat and tears in kitchens and months of spreadsheets. Then this whole nightmare happened. At first I sat at home doing puzzles. Then my girlfriend told me to just go and cook something, anything, for family or for friends. I bought catering trays online and started making things like shredded roast chicken with sticky caramelised onions and fluffy meatballs with tomato compote. The kind of food that feels like someone giving you a hug. Soon I was driving to each compass point of the capital three times a week to deliver to hungry Londoners. We all became obsessed with food in lockdown. It’s one of those things that takes your mind off everything else. I found comfort in healthy, tasty things like a really nice pasta with prawns or roasted cauliflower salad, mixed up with tahini and slipped into a pita bread with a fried egg. I’ve learned that you just have to stay fluid and ready to adapt. I’m doing catering and private dining and I just ran my first ever supper club. And I’ve started looking for aspace again: small, easy to manage. Maybe my restaurant is still on its way…

Time Out London October 27 – November 2 2020 14 The Noo Yawker about making Flor a food hub where people could get bread, pastries, who became groceries, as well as order pizzas for a part-time delivery and takeout. It didn’t happen, though. We stayed pizza slinger closed. A month and a half later, co-founder James Lowe said ‘Let’s From working on a Cornish do the pizza idea’, which is when I farm to selling pizzas out of came back in late May. a window hatch, Pam Yung (head chef at Flor and Lyle’s) I felt like New York-style pizza was is one of the brains behind missing here in London. Personally, Asap Pizza I love all kinds of styles, but I have such a fondness for New York-style My first instinct when the UKK wewentnt having lived there for years. The into lockdown was that I wantedanted texturet of the crust, the stringy to go home to New York. I cheese quality, the even wanted to be with all of colourcl on the crust and my friends and family,y, sellingselli by the slice. but I was terrified of the idea of getting Pizza hhas always on a plane, catchingng beenbeen a passion of something and mine.min I’ve never infecting them,m, soso actuallyact had whole I made the toughugh restaurantre dedicated decision to sit it ouout.t. to it, but I’ve done pop-upsp and specials. Maybe I’m little bit It’sIt’sb been a fun test-run. anal and have an overactive imagination. I was worried about OpeningOpening in May, we were late to the the food supplies at the beginning, lockdownckdow takeaway game. We just with the empty supermarket had to do everything we could to shelves. After I was furloughed, I get open: calling around for help saw a farmer on Instagram who was from friends, adjusting suppliers, offering work and off I went for two all the time not knowing how much months because there was food demand there would be. growing there and I knew I’d be able to eat. We’ve reverted back to Flor for the winter. This doesn’t mean Asap It was really an amazing place. I kept Pizza is gone for ever, though. my mind occupied and my hands busy. I was lucky to be surrounded We’ll keep it alive through special by nature one-off pizza parties when Flor is closed and try to collaborate with I started thinking about a different other chefs and winemakers. It’s food business model that required a actually back next Sunday, pm minimal amount of staff. I thought until pm.

15 October 27 – November 2 2020 Time Out London Survivors

The pasta pro who turned shopkeeper

Head chef Mitshel Ibrahim at Ombra in Hackney turned his Venetian bacaro into an essentials grocery shop selling fresh pasta, vegetables, homemade cold cuts, wines and cook-at-home meal kits

We haven’t closed for a single day since March 18, which was the first official day of lockdown. We don’t want to take too much credit for what we were doing but we were fast and reactive to what was happening.

It started with pizza boxes. Right from the start we were making fresh pasta – like rigatoni and tagliatelle – and doing cold-cut meats for people on the payroll. We could people to buy to eat at home, but we also make sure that the stuff that didn’t have any packaging early on, we were delivering arrived safely so we started biking it to people in because some delivery platforms takeaway containers. may not be as careful or thoughtful. The streetfood legend who Fresh pasta is quite fragile, so some Eventually, everything that was on the items needed to be handled in kept her neighbours fed menu became available to take away. certain ways. It was a way for us to keep supporting When Zoe Adjonyoh, founder of Zoe’s Ghana Kitchen, the suppliers and farms that we It was back to proper basics 101. lost her main source of income overnight due to the work with. A friend helped me out and we were pandemic, she used it as a chance to help others handing out flyers and posters to When there was a flour shortage, we people in the parks telling people WhenWhe we went into lockdown I was days away from receiving had access to flour. It was great to be that we were doing deliveries. final receipts for payment for events that were due in the able to provide a service and a sort of next four weeks. My cashflow went to zero and I was relief to the community, as opposed Customers would order directly fucked: was supposed to be our most profitable to people having to queue for two on the website, then chat to us year. With the money I was supposed to earn I was hours outside Sainsbury’s. directly via Whatsapp. We’d have planningpla to set up an online spice shop, finish my cookbook like different conversations, and launch Black Book, a platform for Bipoc in the food On Easter Sunday, we started to which was really time-consuming industry, but in the end Covid sped everything up and I’m introduce bigger set menus to and inevitable we’d miss stuff out. working on all those things nnow. At the time, I had no financial cook at home and they were such a support from the government.gov I set up a crowdfunder massive hit. That’s when it started to Our hard work has paid off. to help cover losses,losses pay staff and use my kitchen get a bit too much and we had to rent Since reopening for dine-in in July, to cook for NHSNH workers and vulnerable a Zipcar because we couldn’t cope we have never been busier during neighbours.neighbour I was blown away by the on bikes alone. all the years that Ombra has existed. response;respons asking for help was something I I think many people didn’t even don’t ththink I could’ve done a year ago. Not Deliveroo?No way. Basically, we were know we were here before. We’re only ddid we feed people, we got people doing all the deliveries ourselves, thinking of getting a proper online to enjoy their first experience of which meant we could keep more shop now. West African food.

Time Out London October 27 – November 2 2020 16

XxxxxxxSurvivors

The ‘MasterChef’ who finessed fried chicken

owner James Cochran launched Around the Cluck, a fried-chicken takeaway

When we first went live with delivery it was actually pretty overwhelming and we ran out of chicken! The buttermilk jerk chicken snack we serve at is so popular, so it has always been an idea to build a concept around it. Lockdown provided thatt opportunity. In some wayss it was pretty cool: we got to tweak and tailor our recipe to what people liked and didn’t like as we went along. It’s rare you get that. For me, fried chicken is the ultimate comfort food and one that transcends seasons. It’s good with a beer in the summer, but it’s great steaming out of a bag in tthe e wwinter te too. That smell! I’ve grownrownup up with institutions like Morley’s,ey’s, where I still drop in and havee my standard order. For now, we are sayingg The Brat cook week, then it went up to and the goodbye to Around demand for it just kept growing, it the Cluck, but have who started a was crazy. We still deliver by bike. introduced a BYO taster menu. Don’t pie factory At the start it was like Tetris trying to worry, the fried stack my fridge. We just had to accept chicken is still on the Will Lewis used to work at that there was no food in the house. menu. Brat and St John. When he was put on furlough he decided to My oven is a piece of crap from the get well into pastry ’70s. Three of the hobs didn’t even work for a while. When the official lockdown was announced, Brat sacked the There are no recipes, it’s just how I’ve majority of its staff. The next day the learned how to cook with different government’s percent furlough flavours. I think of them on the spot, scheme came in and it was like, really. The bun pioneer who ‘You’re all getting jobs back but God knows what’s going to happen.’ At one stage I had 13 chickens on the did a carb switch go. Some were smoking out on the I started making homemade pies. barbecue, some were roasting in the Bao’s Erchen Chang realised that the buns they were I went to the local butcher, seeing oven and others were poaching. It famous for weren’t going to survive delivery if he wanted any help in terms of adds extra ‘oomph’ in a pie selling meat or butchery work. There’sThe an award-winning grain of rice we use in all our He said: ‘I’ll give you a discount on The pies are done in a drastic way. restaurants that comes from a place called Chi Shang in the meat if you give me six pies a Every single one of them is slightly Taiwan. So we had already had this idea about creating week to have in store.’ So I did. rustic and different. That’s what’s a restaurant with rice as the core product. It never came charming about it. They’re all tooa anything yt gatt at the e time, but it ended up being the seed that I did the cooking and my best mate handmade, I make the pastry and became RiceRic Error. A lot of inspiration came from Tom did the deliveries. Once I helped filling myself, while my girlfriend Chishang Biandang, the lunch boxes you’ll find all out and cycled across town to East Jenny is an absolute tart queen and overover Taiwan.T We decided to fill bamboo boxes Acton to drop off six pies, which is does all the desserts. withwit the rice just like the lunchboxes, then top probably not feasible in the long run. themth with flavours from the Bao menus. Best-selling pie? Bone marrow, We’ve been blown away by the response Now we’re selling a hundred pies definitely. People like having a that Rice Error has had. We sell around a day. We’re selling out within chunky bone poking out of pastry. rice boxes weekly and we’ll keep it @LATEEF.PHOTOGRAPHY CHICKEN: FRIED JESSICAJILLPHOTOGRAPHY; COCHRAN: JAMES

the hour. We started at pies a They’re just obsessed with it. going for as long as possible. ■ IMAGES

Time Out London October 27 – November 2 2020 188 * IXXW I I

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$15I I6I I XBI1 I IX IXIIIXXI%3I X IXI WIXIX I I-%I BI I9IXIX I I7?7?BI$I XBB The fine art of solo dining

For Joel Golby, Brick Lane bagels were the gateway drug for a solo-dining habit that’s serving him well in Tier . He thinks you should indulge too. Photography Andy Parsons

THERE ARE TWO types of people possible that Beigel Shop is very in this city: people who get their nice. I’ll just never know. Brick Lane bagel from the yellow This was an important ritual for sign place (Beigel Shop, if you want me, because not only did it baptise to be like that about it) and those me in the glory of mustard, but it who get them from the white sign gave me something to do for my first place (Beigel Bake, if you must). I -odd weekends in the city. When have had all of my most passionate I first moved to London I was both pub arguments about this. As soon exceptionally poor and relatively as you are taken to one bagel shop, lonely, having, as I did, a badly paid you imprint on it like a baby duck, job where I only knew the people and you are never able to go to the I worked with. This means I spent other bagel place for as long as you most Saturdays doing roughly the live in this city. In my first weekend same thing: getting a crawling, in London, my sister moved quickly never-ending bus from Muswell Hill to guide me on the path of the light down to Moorgate, walking along – ‘You go there,’ she whispered, to Shoreditch, through the markets pointing at the neon-white sign of and the graffiti tours and the high- Beigel Bake, ‘and never there,’ she energy art students all wearing what said, pointing at the lurid yellow I can only describe as ‘brave hats’ of Beigel Shop – and I have never and then cashlessly mooching, faltered from it since. It is entirely looking at books I would never buy,

Time Out London October 27 – November 2 2020 20 records I would never take home is hard to emulate unless you’re and joke T-shirts that I didn’t quite actually feeling the deep and understand. When that day of not particular sting of humiliation that spending money was over, I would comes with being stood up. Order queue up at Beigel Bake, get shouted your food promptly and try not to at for saying ‘bagel’ wrongly, hand sob to the waitstaff and you’ll get over about in coins and leave away with it just fine. It helps to with a precious hot brown paper have something to distract you a bag. Inside was the salt-beef bagel little while you eat – a book is more (mustard, no pickle) I had been refined than a phone, because it dreaming about all day. Eventually makes you look like the kind of I made some friends, and took them person who uses the word ‘supper’. all to Brick Lane for a feast. ‘You But remember, you need to hold the should go to other places,’ they used paperback in one hand while you to warn me. ‘You should do other use your knife and fork and adjust it things.’ No. accordingly. You could take a laptop That was my first introduction at a pinch – it’s better than staring to solo dining, and my love for it straight ahead at a wall, I suppose has only intensified since. There – but… don’t. If the worst comes is no thrill greater, for instance, to worst you can put headphones than finding you have a spare hour, on and listen to a podcast, but try nowhere to be, and you’re near not to laugh out loud at it because enough to a pub for one pint and two someone might come up to you packets of peanuts (I first realised and ask in a soothing voice whether this in Angel, at The Harlequin, there’s someone they can call to where I spent one glorious afternoon come and get you. failing entirely to do a crossword Most of all, revel in dining by over two slow pints of guest ale). yourself. Eating with friends is a fun, Over the summer I discovered a social activity, but it comes with its lunch place near me that I delight drawbacks : there’s always someone in taking myself to for a sandwich. who decides you should all share I have kept its location a sworn starters when you’ve already firmly secret from my girlfriend so I don’t decided what you want; everyone have to bring her every time I want eats at a different pace and there’s to eat – a good part of the pleasure inevitably one slow eater holding is not having to make small talk up the meal; that whole WhatsApp with someone through a mouthful group back and forth about where of food. With Lockdown # you’re going to go; the argument looming, and the concept of mixing over the bill; the agonising over ‘At no households becoming ever more a second bottle of wine. All those impractical, there is one upside: problems melt into the background point does you can just, like, take yourself out when it’s just you, something for dinner. It’s arguably more chic delicious with beurre blanc on it anyone and Continental than meeting up and a solo seat at the bar. Order two with friends to eat anyway. And at no mains. Order two puddings. Order attempt point does anyone attempt to ‘just five starters and a whole bottle of try a bite’ of your pudding. wine. Society doesn’t really exist to ‘just The rules for eating alone are anymore anyway. It’s time we pretty simple: don’t be weird about stopped pandering to its norms. ■ try a bite’ it. The first time you do it you’re of your going to be paranoid that you’re emitting ‘I’ve been stood up on a pudding’ date and I am terribly embarrassed’ Find a place to eat alone energy, but that particular vibe timeout.com/eatlist

21 October 27 – November 2 2020 Time Out London

How to be highbrow

The arts in : only to be enjoyed in small groups and/or while seated. The result? Niche, intellectual culture is having its moment. Here’s how to enjoy it. Illustrations Kieran Glennon

‘The Birthday Party’, ‘The Caretaker’, the resolution have been removed and How to... make ‘The Homecoming’, ‘Old Times’… they’re replaced by dread and terror. some of the most sublime plays ever It may be a while before we see Pinter’s it to the end of a written. But what are they actually about? longer, larger plays back on our stages, There’s no sugar-coating the fact that but Hampstead Theatre will be reopening Harold Pinter play nobody exactly knows – and that Pinter next month with the perfect starter. ‘The himself steadfastly refused to say, Dumb Waiter’, which premiered at It’s not just you, nobody knows what and possibly didn’t know either. Hampstead itself back in , this lad’s plays are about. And that’s That’s perhaps the key to should definitely be viewed a good thing, says Culture editor his works: they’re not easy as a dark comedy about Andrzej Łukowski or often even possible to two hitmen hiding out ‘understand’, but there’s in a basement, because Harold Pinter was very much the no need for that to be your that’s what it is is: indeed, Radiohead of twentieth-century English goal. Pinter’s great plays it prefigured a lot of the playwrights: yes, he was obviously a are more a vibe than a neat gangster dramas of the ’s. genius and yes, he was and is pretty narrative, and that vibe is a It’s about two men being commercially popular. But just as you creeping existential dread and manipulated by an unseen wouldn’t casually pop ‘Kid A’ on in the characters locked in a fugue state force that sends them absurd, office and expect everyone to be fine at the very fringes of humanity. menacing instructions via the mini- about it, so Pinter’s works are way further Another way of looking at it: the theatre elevator. You never find out who or what is into the leftfield than many West End critic Irving Wardle coined the term sending the notes, and it doesn’t matter: punters are comfortable with. You come ‘comedy of menace’ to describe Pinter’s it just matters that you know there are for the big-name casting; you scratch your plays, and it’s bang on – they’re actually things out there, in the darkness. And I head at the strange, scary characters and old-fashioned comedies in terms of their think we can all get on board with that. PINTER: GETTY IMAGES GETTY PINTER: IMAGES their descent into cryptic personal hells. set-ups and plots, only the laughs and ‘The Dumb Waiter’. Hampstead Theatre. Nov 18-Dec 19.

23 October 27 – November 2 2020 Time Out London How to... wean yourself on to black-and-white cinema

Film editor Phil de Semlyen shares his four-step programme to cracking the monochrome movie code

‘The Artist’ 1An easy-peasy one to kick off with. Yes, it’s a French movie but deep down, it’s really an American movie with a beret on. Also, it’s got a cute dog in it. Seriously, it didn’t win Oscars because Academy voters love reading subtitles. A jazz-handsy love letter to silent cinema. Rogers and Astaire will see you now... ‘Top Hat’ 2Songs! Dancing! Erm, hats! Nothing beats the effortless dash of this musical, nor the sight of Fred and Ginger gliding around a dancefloor. The pair, who were lucky to be operational before the whole portmanteau thing and thus escaped the horror of ‘Fredger’, will turn you into a black-and- white-movie superfan. ‘Andrei Rublev’ 3You’re ready to hand yourself over to the artiest film ever made about art: Andrei Tarkovsky’s magisterial hymn to Russian icon painter Andrei Rublev. Epic in scale, even epic-er in scope, this rumination on creativity, religion, politics and other deep The most exciting thing that can happen shit is spellbinding. How to... dig free- during a performance – for the players No songs, mind you. and for the audience – is when the jazz noodling performers combine with each other ‘Sátántangó’ for a musical moment in time. It’s like 4You’re ready to face Free improvised music performer watching a pack of animals perform an the big boss of black- Tasos Stamou explains how to keep instinctive, synchronised movement. and-white: the cow in going with the flow when the flow And don’t be put off by the apparently Béla Tarr’s ‘Sátántangó’. flows way harder than you’re used to ‘messy’ nature of the music. Engage with Hang in there as it inches the chaos in free improvisation: it’s such across the frame over five Improvised music tries to use the least a big part of this highly organic music. minutes of real-time dairy possible predetermined structures and If I could give you one bit of advice for farming and you’ll be references. Although this is actually enjoying this type of music, it would be rewarded with a massive impossible, attempting it is an artistic this: close your eyes for a few moments. car chase. Not really! It’s statement by itself. So don’t expect Oh, and don’t disturb other listeners. another minutes of traditional music passages, like an intro, This music requires full attention. BFI RUBLEV: ANDREI ALAMY; SÁTÁNTANGÓ: AND HAT TOP

Hungarian village life. a solo or a crescendo. www.tasosstamou.bandcamp.com IMAGES

Time Out London October 27 – November 2 2020 24 How to be highbrow

Netherlands, like marijuana, windmills How to... get and losing at football. But back in the early seventeenth century, they were incredibly really, really into rare and incredibly expensive. Owning a tulip in some wild colour was a signal Dutch flower that you had the money – and the smarts – to get your hands on something super- paintings exclusive. The same goes for hyacinths. The other main things you’ll notice are To a beginner they might look like vases and seashells. The blue porcelain B&B decor, but Culture editor Eddy painted in all that intricate detail was Frankel says they’re actually, like, imported from Dutch colonies in Asia; super deep and complex the seashells were collected from voyages by sailors all over the world. Each of these Youngsters these days, with their Tiktaks elements tells the viewer that you’re not a and Pacmans and iPods, are way too Den Haag simpleton, you’re an overstimulated to find international man of mystery. old paintings fun. The What all of this means is National Gallery? Just a that, if you were the kind of bunch of boring old fellas person who owned one of in wigs, isn’t it? Well, yes these paintings, you were and no. There are plenty of saying a) I’m loaded b) I’m blokes with big barnets, but cultured and c) I’m well there’s also a lot of murder travelled. They’re boasts. and nudity. So to prove But it gets especially just how fascinating and interesting when you look amazing old artworks can be, really closely. Hidden in let’s look at the – objectively among all the leaves and – most boring thing in art petals, you’ll find bugs. history: flower paintings. Lots of them. And each one Listen, I’ve got a degree in is symbolic. The butterflies symbolise the this stuff and even I found still lifes of resurrection of the body, ants symbolise fancy flora unbearably tedious. And then, hard work, and flies… well, flies symbolise one day, I spent an afternoon walking rotting and death. Little reminders of life’s around the National Gallery’s room of finitude, how death comes for us all. Dutch flower paintings and fell totally Nothing in these paintings is an in love. These old canvases aren’t just accident, every single thing tells a story. exercises in posing pretty blooms, they’re You just have to know how to look for it. dramatic snapshots of past lives, they’re full of narrative and symbolism. Let’s start with the most obvious bits: the flowers. Tulips today are everywhere, Find a good exhibition at an international symbol of the timeout.com/art

watching dance, you’ll never catch it How to... become all. Just focus on two things: firstly, try and appreciate the athleticism of the a contemporary dancers; secondly, it’s all about the music. Music is a huge part of a dancer’s life and dance snob watching dancers and musicians mesh together is a beautiful thing: it heightens Just focus on the juiciest bits and comedic, cheerful and emotional you’ll find your rhythm, explains moments. There’s no difference in Brandon Lawrence, principal dancer accessibility between something of the Birmingham Royal Ballet like ‘The Nutcracker’ and ‘Lazuli Sky’ [Will Tuckett’s new ballet about Dance is all about one person’s social distancing]. Ultimately they both interpretation. Even as a professional dance in the same circles. The beauty of dancer I interpret work differently to my a company like Birmingham Royal Ballet DUTCH FLOWERS: A STILL LIFE OF FLOWERS IN A WAN-LI VASE BY AMBROSIUS AMBROSIUS BY VASE WAN-LI A IN FLOWERS OF LIFE STILL A FLOWERS: DUTCH peers. Don’t worry about what we do or is the range of works we bring to the widest IMAGES BOSSCHAERT THE ELDER, IMAGE ALAMY IMAGE ELDER, THE BOSSCHAERT what you’re meant to be looking for. While possible audience.

25 October 27 – November 2 2020 Time Out London TIMEOUT.COM/OFFERS LOND N FOR LESS

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Time Out London October 27 – November 2 2020 26 Things to Do Things to do in London

Written by Katie McCabe and Alexandra Sims timeout.com/thingstodo @timeoutlondon

Four child drag queens overcome enormous scrutiny to achieve their glittering dreams in Megan Wennberg’s DRAG KIDS: TELL TALE PRODUCTIONS TALE TELL KIDS: DRAG doc ‘Drag Kids’. Watch it for free at this year’s Raindance Film Festival. Turn to p for more. IMAGES IMAGES

27 October 27 – November 2 2020 Time Out London Things to Do Comedy E Erotic Fan Fiction Can this immersive show cure Be honest, did you spend some of the noughties writing LiveJournal entries filled with prurient ‘Angel’ your festival-withdrawal blues? fan fic? You are not alone. At this deeply embarrassing night at Hoxton’s Comedy Cabin, you will C Lockdown Town of them – it did feel like being hear three comedians read their own Ah, live music, my old at a (weird) gig. filthy fan fiction out loud. Next up in friend! In the last few Where things got a little the cabin of shame are Alice India, months, some all-seated dicey for me was the general Micky Overman and David Mills. concert halls have been concept of director Kerri Time to archive your sexy Buffy able to reopen but McLean’s production. In masterpiece – who knows, it might they’re a tiny minority; the very first ‘scene’, a host be fodder for the My Dad Wrote a most London gig venues introduces us to the show Porno of the next generation. are not in any way and is approached by a Comedy Cabin. Oct 27. From £5. suited to distancing. young Black woman, who we ‘Lockdown Town’ is a meet again and again, played theatrical gig experience by an older actress each time, that manages to work ie, as we head back in time, around these problems. she ages. The whole thing Actual live The latest in the long climaxes with a scene set in lineage of London shows the aftermath of the Tulsa theatre to pop up in disused race massacre of . Of railway arches, it offers five bands in five rooms, course this should be addressed in art, but it C ‘This Is Going to Hurt’ each of which plays a threeish-song set to the feels a bit crass to situate it in what is largely a Adam Kay – musical comedian and multiple small audiences that are staggered boozy night out. half of the Amateur Transplants through the complex – dubbed One Night In essence, though, ‘Lockdown Town’ is a – wrote a hugely successful book Records – at -minute intervals. good way to showcase bands: it sounds good about being a junior doctor. His live Although they have to play music in line with and looks good, and perhaps offers a template version of the show was due to run the show’s retro-Americana concept, the bands of sorts for how more live music might come on the West End earlier this year, and singers are all ‘real’ acts, given week-long back. It’s basically the central London equivalent but got derailed for obvious reasons. residencies. In the first performance room, of staggering around the fringier tents of However, it has the distinction of themed around ’s rock ’n’ roll, the song choices Wilderness festival for two hours, and if you dig being the piece that will formally were fairly predictable (‘Blue Suede Shoes’ etc), retro Americana, you’ll have a blast. ■ reopen Theatreland to audiences, but I thoroughly enjoyed the way performers Andrzej Łukowski with its three-week socially Oliver Darling and band just battered the shit out One Night Records. Until Dec 30. £52. distanced run serving as a trial for further shows at the Apollo Theatre. Apollo Theatre. Until Nov 8. £20-£50.

C ‘Dante’s in Furlough’ E Mariah & Friendz: horror. There will be tunes from Is it a terrible name? Is it a brilliant Big Halloween Boo Bitch! ‘charismatic chanteuse’ Sister name? Could this immersive theatre ‘Boo, bitch, get out the way’ is what Cookie and ‘everyone’s favourite show, which is based on Dante’s parties you’ll be saying to anyone who grind-a-go-go band’, The Fuzillis. ‘Inferno’ and Shel Silverstein’s epic blocks your view of this cadaverous What’s a grind-a-go-go band? We poem ‘Billy Markham and the S Horror High by PopHorror cabaret from drag troupe Mariah do not know, but it seems to involve Devil’ be exactly what we need right If Halloween is ‘gay Christmas’, & Friendz. They are promising dressing like George McFly. now? Well, like it or not, ‘Dante’s then the Royal Vauxhall Tavern is to go ALL OUT for Halloween. Strongroom Bar. Oct 31. £13.75 per person. in Furlough’ would appear to be a its St Paul’s. Every year, PopHorror Fire breathing and aerial dance thing that is happening: the Vaults takes over the RVT for a fake-blood- performances at past shows have E The Cocoa Butter Club: reopens with this new adventure in soaked cabaret, and the hellscape made their regular venue Bethnal The Bold and the Bootyful which you travel through the circles that is will be no different. Green Working Men’s Club look like Burlesque and cabaret collective of hell in an effort to win your It’s back, and this time,it’s the set of Cirque du Soleil, so you can The Cocoa Butter Club have been soul back. However the H taking us to school for a take their word for it. It’s impossible creating all through lockdown, show – written by Ami I G T night of drag, comedy, to see an M&F show without feeling and on Halloween night, they’ll Stidolph and Sam L L unexpected exams, elated. Lockdown blues? We don’t be breaking away from their Insta Carrack, and directed demonic dinner know her. lives for a full-on stage show inside Y by Carrack – turns S ladies, supply Bethnal Green Working Men’s Club. Nov 1. Shoreditch Town Hall. There will be out, it’s not a bad way teachers, bike-shed From £40 for a table of two. lip-syncing, fire-breathing, hula- to rise to the social- confessionals and an hooping and body-popping – and S E distancing era: if you Y interactive pimp-your- Transylvania Twist 666 you can see it all from the safety of travel in small, sealed C A R pencil-case session. Remember five seconds ago a pre-booked table in your social groups you’ll come into Try to steal our rainbow when we said Halloween is gay bubble. Fancy dress is encouraged, contact with considerably gel pens and we’ll jab you with Christmas? This one has an so start planning your topical looks fewer people than you would a compass, got it? unexpected gift: actual live music! now. (Someone has already thought down the pub. Royal Vauxhall Tavern. Oct 29. From £36 In a pub! Everything will be suitably of Carole Baskin, keep up!). The Vaults. Until Dec 27. £25. for a table of three. schlocky for a night of rock ’n’ roll Shoreditch Town Hall. Oct 31. £12.50. LOCKDOWN TOWN: NOBBY CLARK NOBBY TOWN: LOCKDOWN C Central N North S South E East W West Streaming Outdoors IMAGES IMAGES

Time Out London October 27 – November 2 2020 28 Things to Do

little backstreet space can’t is a newly curated quartet of vocal done it: millions of pumpkins go Virtual gigs accommodate its usual cross- works, each exploring some form of uneaten every year at Halloween in legged-crowd-huddled-on-the- isolation. It was the first live show the UK alone. But no more. With this Defected Records: floor gigs right now, but it can staged at the venue post-lockdown. Facebook Live workshop, chef Mark We Dance as One reach willing musos by stream. In two hours, it manages to cover Breen will show you how to turn Streamed lockdown parties have Wire in to hear a performance from Benjamin Britten’s ‘Phaedra’, that globby mess into pumpkin seed found their rhythm in the last experimental post-punk trio Bas Handel’s ‘Apollo e Dafne’, HK pesto and pumpkin crisps. It’s high seven months. Zoom events like Jan (did you expect anything less?). Gruber’s ‘Frankenstein!!’ and time we appreciated the pumpkin Queer House Party are no longer What you’ll see is the band creating more. If you’re an opera novice, possibilities. Except when it comes necessities of isolation, they are their second album, in a recording consider this a crash course set by an to flavouring coffee. That shit is for club nights in their own right, and that was captured over three days. unpredictable substitute teacher. masochists only. big-name DJs want a slice of that Somehow, they’ve condensed it all Until Nov 15. £13.33. stream.roh.org.uk Oct 28. Free. Stream on Facebook @HubbubUK. virtual party pie. British record label into just over an hour of bass, electric Defected is making that happen violin, and slippery art-pop vocals. with three successive online club Oct 27. £4. www.cafeoto.co.uk nights – but this is not a ‘whose shoes are these?’ kind of three-day Royal Opera House: PumpkinPump Space séance drinking bender. The We Dance as ‘4/4’ One series will take place on three A night at The Operara doesn’t timetime The Museum of Black Hole different dates, with the last on New often get called a gig,g, but Spacetime Séance Year’s Eve. The first is on October , there’s singing involved,olved, EatEat Your Pumpkin When chaos reigns, some of us start with DJ sets from Mike Dunn, Sam so why not? And you’llou’ll be We’ve aall done it. You to see the appeal of astral journeys. Divine, and the one house DJ who’s watching this one inn youyourr carve a pumpkin for On this particular voyage, artist an actual household name, Carl Cox. cosy clothes insteadd of HalloweenHal and put Suzanne Treister will take you Please, Carl, transport us back to black tie, so all bets theth orange guts ‘ billion light years through the days of phat tracks and wide-leg are off. In a case to one side ‘for space from Earth’ to make contact combats. We’re ready. of extreme mid- soup’,s fully aware with the Museum of Black Hole Next event: Oct 30, then Nov 27 and Dec 31. May déjà vu, the thatt the globby Spacetime, which first appeared in Free. Stream on Facebook, Twitch or YouTube. ROH is putting mesh of seeds one of her paintings. Everyone on out streamed will go straight this ride through the cosmos will be Cafe Oto Live Stream performances. in the bin two asked to describe their ‘visions’, so Looking for something on the Only this time, Defected days later. The keep a pen and paper handy. Records: We skronkier side? Cafe Oto can it’s not from the problem is, Oct 29. Free, register in advance. Dance as One help – of course it can. Dalston’s archives: ‘/’, wew really have all www.serpentinegalleries.org © Arshdeep Singh © Arshdeep

Now open Free for Members and Patrons Book online nhm.ac.uk

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29 October 27 – November 2 2020 Time Out London Lily Vanilli Bakery Alltreat, no tr ick

Five of London’s most decadent desserts

Luxe versions of nostalgic n a list of the best things chocolate bars, desserts Oabout autumn in London, indulging in delicious sweet with theatrical reveals and treats has got to be up there with rich, boozy hot chocolates: crunchy leaves, Bonfire Night and, don’t you reckon you of course, Halloween. With spooky deserve a treat this season upon us, we’ve teamed up with Baileys to bring you this guide Halloween? to London’s richest, most swoon- inducing desserts – all of which you can enjoy with a Baileys. Cheers! The Ivy Chelsea Garden Advertisement feature

THE ULTIMATE NIGHT IN

Top to bottom Hawksmoor, Jimmy’s Lodge pop-up, Duck & Waffle

Baileys Salted Caramel Crunchy Bar Spooky Fig Cake Hawksmoor Lily Vanilli’s Bakery The humble childhood favourite gets This Halloween, baking queen Lily a high-end makeover at this popular Vanilli has collaborated with Baileys British steakhouse. Small-batch on a seriously delicious cake. chocolate by Femmes de Virunga is Combiningngg the rich Baileysy Salted toppetoppedpp with mascarpone ice cream Staying at home? Get cosy Caramel withw fresh figs, and hhoneycomb. with food blogger Celeste caramel saucesaauce and a VariousVarioo locations. Wong’s Baileys Salted Baileys-infusednffused fluffy Caramel Fancy Flat White. sponge, VanilliVaanilli is serving this spooktacularkktacular Ingredients creation att her east BaileysBaill Hot Chocolate 30ml espresso London bakery.aakery. It’s JimmJimmy’sm Lodge pop - up 50ml Baileys Salted Caramel also availablelaable to If you’veyou never booked one of (0.8 units) order online!inne! thosee cosy-looking snow globes Whipped cream on top with The Courtyard,yaard, on thee South Bank, you’re really toasted marshmallows, pretzels 18 Ezra St, missingmiss out. The Jimmy’s Lodge and toffee popcorn E2 7RH. pop-uppoo is back for winter, Salted hazelnut praline rim servingse the hot chocolate with caramel sauce off your dreams: Islands 70 pepercente hot chocolate, giant Method marshmallows,marr caramel, whipped 1 Coat the rim of the glass or cup cream,cream chocolate shavings and, of with caramel sauce course,courss Baileys. You get to choose betweenbetwee Original Irish Cream, 2 Dip and rub in crushed praline Chocolatelatatee BombeBombe SaltedSalteS lt Caramel or Chocolat Luxe. (add a sprinkling of Maldon salt to The Ivy ChChelsea l GGarden d Now that’s doing autumn right. the mix) until there is a thick coat If you like your desserts with Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. around the glass or cup a dash of theatre, then the pièce de résistance of the 3 Add a dollop of the caramel sauce dessert menu at The to the bottom of the glass or cup Ivy Chelsea Garden is The Full Elvis an absolute must-try. Duck & Waf fle 4 Add espresso, 100ml hot water Your waiter pours Zip up 40 floors in 40 and 50ml Baileys Salted Caramel hot salted caramel seconds to one of the sauce over the top of tallest restaurants 5 Top with thick whipped cream and a chocolate sphere. in London. Of all the place marshmallows on top As it dramatically variations on its fluffy melts open, a delicious Belgian waffles, the most 6 Garnish with some toffee caramel honeycomb centre is indulgent is The Full Elvis: popcorn and finish with a drizzle of revealed. To take things to peanut butter and jelly, caramel and a sprinkling of crushed the next level, why not enjoy caramelised banana, chantilly praline and pretzels with a Baileys over ice? cream and berries. 195-197 King’s Rd, SW3 5EQ. 110 Bishopsgate, EC2N 4AY.

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Berlin Wall, which the museum Gratis gallery has plonked in the middle of the BEHIND THE BEATS shopping centre. Fingers crossed, shows it’s finally found a more permanent place to call home. S ‘Departures’ Migration Museum. Oct 30-Jun 2021. Free. Mikey Dread It’s sadly fitting that the Migration Museum has had a hard time finding E ‘Kai Althoff goes with a place to settle since it was founded Bernard Leach’ eight years ago. After stints as a pop- German painter Kai Althoff has up and a short stay at the London lowered the Whitechapel Gallery’s Fire Brigade’s former HQ, its new ceiling and littered it with leaves home is squeezed between a Greggs and debris. It’s apparently all one and TK Maxx in Lewisham Shopping big love letter to British potter Centre. Hoping to fill some of the Bernard Leach, who Althoff sees as gaps in our understanding an inspiration and important about how migration R E influence on his work. has shaped Britain, F E Walk under the dirty its latest exhibition, canopy and you’ll ‘Departures’, find of Althoff’s tracks years of mystical, romantic, emigration from violent works. He UK shores since the has no singular MC Ras Kayleb Mayflower set sail. style to speak of, it’s and Mikey Dread Windrush deportees, A R T like looking at the art Cornish and Welsh settlers collection of an eccentric in South America and Black hermit, filled with Japanese Britons who have recently moved ukiyo-e, lost German expressionism to their parents’ countries of birth and discarded sketches of Odilon in West Africa are among the Redon and Paul Gauguin. There’s S Channel One’s Sunday Social people whose stories are told in also a room of of Leach’s pots (if Back in July, a big open-air beer garden called Brixton this exhibition. If you’re not quite you were wondering where the ft Courtyard arrived to save our lockdown souls. It made ready to wander around inside, Bernard Leach bit comes in). clubbing possible at a time when most nightlife venues you can visit two huge pieces of the Whitechapel Gallery. Until Jan 10. Free. were closed, and now, as the ban on mixing households indoors continues, it’s providing a natural, normal space to see the people you love, but don’t happen to live with. Leading the outdoor parties there every Sunday is the legendary reggae soundsystem Channel One, which has been going since 1979. Ahead of this weekend’s courtyard social, we met with Mikey Dread, who co-runs the soundsystem with MC Ras Kayleb. What were the early days of Channel One like? ‘Early days of Channel One were tough. Everywhere we went, we took our soundsystem. And the soundsystem of today looks so different to the soundsystem of yesteryear. Them days we were driving around everywhere [with] six-foot boxes, seven-foot boxes, sound amplifiers, things like that. Taking those boxes up two, three, four flights of stairs, it wasn’t easy... The days of me bringing boxes up flights of stairs are over.’ A lot of dance venues have recently been denied bailout funding. How do you feel about the treatment of nightlife over this period? ‘The nightlife in this country feeds the government. It feeds this country big time. The fact is, when you work from nine to five you want to go out and release some of that tension on a Saturday. That’s where we come in. If you’re going to pull that away, you’re telling people to work and have no entertainment life at all. One hand washes the other... My belief is that they want to see a lot of these venues put down.’ What makes a great soundsystem? ‘The entertainment side of it, that’s what you’re there for. It’s not about trying to blow people’s head off or playing the wrong music. People will tell you with their feet. If you start a session from 8pm until 2am and you’re not doing the job, probably by ten o’clock, the place will be empty. You have to have a really good knowledge of what you can do – and know your crowd.’ n Katie McCabe SIONG KHEE TIAN © 2019 DOCKS THE JOIN AT TOLERANCE OF SHIP THE Brixton Courtyard. Nov 1 and every Sun in Nov. From £8 per person. IMAGES

Time Out London October 27 – November 2 2020 32 The Citi exhibition Down by the Inside Out fest Arctic docks ‘Apollo e Dafne’ Great news: the Southbank Centre E Join the Docks festival is reopening! Less great news: you culture and Focusing on the people and places can’t go in! Instead, the shows that make up Newham’s Royal in its Inside Out season of music climate Docks, Join the Docks festival has and literature will be broadcast created an online and real-life from the Royal Festival Hall via programme that is (hopefully) online streams, and concerts aired government tier-proof. There’s on BBC Radio . Don’t miss this 22 October 2020 – zine-making workshops from Queer broadcast of Handel’s ‘Apollo e Zine Library, laser installations from Dafne’. The famous cantata is based 21 February 2021 artist Marcus Lyall and percussion on the rather uncomfortable myth performances using the Docks’ of Daphne being forced to turn Lead supporter architecture as instruments. herself into a tree to escape Apollo’s Railings, historical landmarks, unrelenting romantic advances. boats – everything is a drum once Maybe try and ignore that bit, and you find the right rhythm, man. focus on the nice music instead. Various Royal Docks locations and online. Oct 29-Nov 5. Prices tbc. www.southbankcentre. Until Dec 15. Free. www.royaldocks.london co.uk

Markets and Online film more fests Supported by S Vinyl Records Fair Film Africa Julie and Stephen Fitzgerald There’s more to Crystal Palace than Mixing feature-length premieres, its poorly proportioned dinosaur shorts and documentaries, Film sculptures. Haynes Lane Market, Africa will show films from a two-floor house of antiques and African countries in socially Book collectables, is another little slice of distanced screenings at BFI SE worth shouting about. It’s now Southbank and Rich Mix, and, for Kiliii Yuyan (b. 1979), Umiaq and now north wind during spring whaling. home to Free the Gallery, one of the the first time, via BFI Player. Look Inkjet print, 2019. © Kiliii Yuyan. only new event spaces to open this out for the European premiere of year. This weekend you’ll find it full award-winning Nigerian director of wobbly towers of techno, soul and Akin Omotoso’s ‘The Ghost and punk from dealers and vinyl heads the House of Truth’ starring British selling their sleeves . actor Susan Wokoma, and the UK Free the Gallery at Haynes Lane Market. premiere of ‘Kenyan, Christian, Oct 31-Nov 1. Free entry. Queer’ a documentary about the first LGBTQ church in Nairobi. W Portobello Vegan Night BFI Southbank, Rich Mix and via player.bfi.org. Market uk. Oct 30-Nov 8. Prices vary. Eat a sloppy plant-based burger to the sound of DJs blaring reggae, Raindance Film Festival ska and roots at this vegan street The UK’s biggest indie film festival party. We use the term ‘street party’ is ripping up the rule book this year. loosely, it’s no Carnival, but it is a Whose rule book? We don’t know. wholesome reason to amble around Whoever decides how film fests Portobello Road for a calm, socially are run – probably someone who distanced weekday evening. lives beneath the BFI. Anyway, for Portobello Green Market. Oct 28. Free entry. ¡¢¡¢ it’s taking all its screenings online and making them available FOR FREE, which means, despite all the uncertainty facing the cinemacin industry at the moment, indieind film will be more accessible thantha ever. As long as you’ve got a broadbandbro connection you can watchwat big premieres, like the David BowieBow biopic ‘Stardust’, Megan Wennberg’sWe moving documentary ‘Drag‘Dr Kids’ and dozens of feature debuts.deb Being an insufferable film buffbuf has never been so easy. Join the Oct 28-Nov 15. Free (or £5 per film donation) Docks festival or £19.99 for a festival pass. www.raindance. org/festivalorg

33 October 27 – November 2 2020 Time Out London Food & Dr ink

timeout.com/eatdrink @timeouteatdrink

Sunset chowdowns

Thanks to the curfew, early-bird deals are having a Camino moment. Sure, it might mean eating and drinking like a retiree, but it’s worth it for the savings, baby

Seabird – knowing you’re getting a reet 1Decked out like the beach old bargain. It’ll mean missing bar of an influencer-bait Bali ‘Neighbours’, though. Sorry. hotel, this seafood specialist has Various locations. turned eating into a game show. The earlier you go to chow down, the Daffodil Mulligan more you get off your bill. Arrive at 3You have an hour-and-a-half pm (which makes sense anyway, window to maximise this as the autumn nights draw in on absolute steal on the edge of The its views of the London skyline) for City. Richard Corrigan’s Beat the percent off your bill. You get Curfew set menu affords punters percent off at pm, percent three courses and a cocktail for off at pm, percent off at pm, – but it’s only redeemable for and percent off at pm. bookings from pm to pm. 14th Floor, 40 Blackfriars Rd, The food is a no-choice SE1 8NY. situ, with a menu that changes daily. Top Cuvée Kricket 70-74 City Rd, 2 You can EC1Y 2BJ. skip paying a fifth Three now you can pick up two highballs, of choice? Fresh, slippy oysters of your food 4Sheets made with flavours like chita and to chuck down your gullet again bill if you time One of the salted peach, for before pm. and again. You can sink them your trip to coolest cocktail 510b Kingsland Rd, E8 4AB. continuously for the whole two one of Kricket’s bars in the whole hours straight if you want. But – three restaurants of east London Orasay let’s be honest – you’ll probably right. Go between (you can tell because Like a happy hour – but have a nicer time if you nail a couple Nopi 5 pm and pm to tuck it’s so, so nondescript), without the oversized and then move on to something into really, really good this Dalston hangout is cocktails and toffee Corky’s – more substantial. The flavour- Anglo-Indian small plates – like basically the last place you’d think Jackson Boxer’s Orasay is doing packed whole grilled lemon sole, generously portioned lamb raan would have an early-bird deal. But shots from pm to pm every for example. with sweet pomegranate seeds these are unprecedented times, so evening at the moment. The poison 31 Kensington Park Rd, W11 2EU.

Time Out London October 27 – November 2 2020 34 Nopi restaurant has come up with goods 6 You know what will cheer you again. Book a table before pm and up? An Ottolenghi feast. And you’ll get percent off your food not one that was half-successfully bill. It’s a perfect excuse to plough cooked by your housemate in an your way through its new seven- attempt to fill a day of lockdown. course menu for two. A proper one. From one of Yotam’s 177b Blackstock Rd, N5 2LL. most sophisticated restaurants. (Nopi’s white-tiled and mirrored Camino walls are like the backdrop of a 8 The first thing you need to Skims advert.) During early evening know about Camino is that service ( pm to pm) from its four London restaurants have Monday to Friday, a sharing menu extremely well-heated outdoor costs just per person. And it’s all terraces. The second is that the nourishing, tasty stuff: marinated tapas mini-chain is giving away olives, aubergine with feta and ‘curfew croquetas’ to any diners pomegranate, squash with miso who come for dinner at a time and almonds, flat-iron steak and actual Spanish people would mackerel pistachio sambal. never be seen dead in a restaurant. 21-22 Warwick St, W1B 5NE. Spend at the King’s Cross, Bankside, Shoreditch or Monument Top Cuvée restaurant before pm to get 7 Honestly, the only things that your hands on some crispy jamón have got us through or salt cod delicacies (or a plate of have been impulse-buying soft jamón serrano or pan con tomate). clothes and the many reinventions Get down there with your five best of Top Cuvée. Are we hooked on its mates for an outdoor dinner. ■ wine-delivery service? Yes. Have Various locations. we found ourselves browsing the bistro’s shop even in those financial black-spot periods before payday? Eat the pain away at Absolutely. And now the Highbury timeout.com/comfortfood

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35 October 27 – November 2 2020 Time Out London Love Local

Edited by Kate Lloyd timeout.com/lovelocal

The tender heart of a big, brutalist icon

Not just a pretty concrete face, the Trellick Tower is home to a life-changing social enterprise

ONCE A MONTH for the past five years, just the food,’ says Marie Cudennec, the ground floor of the Trellick Tower Goldfinger’s CEO. ‘It was the human has been given over to a feast. Clinking impact: feeling cared-for.’ glasses. Laughter. The sweet smells and The store itself, which sells furniture flavours of Sicily. All for the financially made from reclaimed and sustainable vulnerable and socially isolated of North materials, was closed for three months. Kensington to enjoy gratis. Its in-house academy, which offers free But back in March, this ‘People’s craft courses and apprenticeships to Kitchen’ initiative, which operates out low-income residents, also had to change Goldfinger Factory of furniture shop, restaurant and social its model. Mid-lockdown it launched enterprise Goldfinger Factory (named Soulcraft at Home, an online course after Trellick’s architect, Ernő Goldfinger), teaching the theory and background of had to pause indefinitely. Plating up in the woodworking, offered free to anyone Grade II-listed brutalist icon was off the who couldn’t afford it. Cudennec says the cards. Giuseppe Di Matteo, who runs the lessons aimed to show that ‘using hands Panella restaurant at Goldfinger, saw his and making is generally good for the soul’. income wiped out overnight. So, like much Slowly, things are returning to normal. North Kensington of the capital, the business had to pivot. Courses will soon be face-to-face . The The People’s Kitchen turned to delivery: restaurant is open. But the People’s free meals, paid for by donations Kitchen: To Your Door scheme – ‘one of the and brought straight to locals’ doors wonderful things to come out of lockdown’, once a week during lockdown. A ten-to- according to Cudennec – will continue to Said Aden is a senior -minute catch-up with the delivery run on the third Sunday of every month. youth worker at volunteer was very much part of the Giuseppe the chef adds: ‘It all makes me Youth Action Alliance, service, if recipients fancied it. ‘We realised feel very happy inside.’ ■ Huw Oliver a charity based in PARSONS ANDY : FACTORY GOLDFINGER that the impact we were having wasn’t 13-15 Golborne Rd. North Kensington. IMAGES

Time Out London October 27 – November 2 2020 36 Love Local Little Wormwood Scrubs ‘Quite a lot of the people I work with come from this section of North Kensington, the top end. It’s not just a green space – it’s got a gym, adventure playground and an under-fives club on weekdays. There’s also a wildlife area out Meanwhile the back, where a lot of birdwatchers go during the Gardens winter months. There are lizards, and someone I WEST KILBURN ‘The gates are always open knew swore they once saw a snake. here. It’s kind of linked to Trellick I often take groups to do berry-picking Tower, and I think some people there. If I had to go somewhere at still grow fruit and veg in a lunchtime, I’d go here.’ KENSAL TOWN section of it, which is really 1 Dalgarno Gardens. nice for the community.’ 158 Kensal Rd.

Emslie Horniman’s NORTH Pleasance KENSINGTON ‘This is another very nice park, though it closes at sunset. There’s an adventure playground next to it. They’ve got a decent kiosk inLADBROKE there. And there’s also a great young children’sGROVE area, with adventure-type equipment for under-12s.’ Kensal Rd. George’s Westbourne Park Portobello Fish Bar ‘I head here once in a blue moon, to treat myself. It’s a traditional fish- and-chip shop, with all the things you’d expect, mushy peas and all. They also Ladbroke Grove do patties, pastries, chicken and ribs, which are very popular, especially with some of my family.’ 329 Portobello Rd.

Jay Dees ‘A Caribbean restaurant Latimer Road just off All Saints Road. They do a lunchtime special which quite a lot of the young people I work with are into. White City I think it works out at, like, £5 and you get something like curried goat or chicken Anthony & with rice and peas, or plain rice, and Anthony a little bit of salad. The best thing ‘In North Kensington, there are two is it changes every day.’ major hairdressers. You’ve got Mo Better 28 Lancaster Rd. Fez Mangal Cutz, at the top of Ladbroke Grove. And then ‘I sometimes go here there’s Anthony & Anthony, off Portobello Road. for lunch, often with work. They’re a really significant part of the community: It’s a Turkish restaurant serving the hairdresser is like a confessionHOLLAND booth. You PARK talk authentic Turkish food straight to your hairdresser or barber about anything that off the grill. I don’t eat red meat goes on in life. They’ll listen to you, whatever it is. myself, but I do really like their Me personally? I’m an Anthony’s person. I’ve fish dishes.’ been going there since I was about nine. It’s that kind of allegiance.’ 104 Ladbroke Grove. Time Out’s Love Local campaign supports 303 Westbourne Park Rd. local food, drink and culture businesses in London. Find out how you can help the places that make our city great. timeout.com/lovelocallondon

37 October 27 – November 2 2020 Time Out London Escapes Escapes

Edited by Ellie Walker-Arnott timeout.com/daytrips

Paranormal activities

Real life not terrifying enough for you right now? Check out these haunted places around the UK for a proper fright, you absolute psychopath

NO NEED TO answer the doorbell peeled for ghostly Royalist soldiers ‘If you’re not out this Halloween. Trick-or-treating too. There’s a hole in Aston Hall’s by 10pm…’ Skirrid has been cancelled, and when we staircase made by a cannonball Mountain Inn think about this year’s potential when the house was under siege costume choices, plus the amount during the English Civil War. of hand san we’d get through, we’re Halloween Torchlight Ghost Tour. Fri Oct 30- frankly glad. You know what can’t Sun Nov 1. £15. Booking essential. be cancelled, though? The undead. www.birminghammuseums.org.uk Ghosts, ghouls, apparitions, silkies, kelpies, goblins and sprites don’t Margam Country Park give a damn about which tier their West Glamorgan haunting grounds are in. Whether Margam Country Park is a triple you believe in all that or not, these threat. It’s home to the ruined Capel strange sites around the UK will Mair ar y Bryn, where the presence give you a severe case of the creeps. of unwelcoming ancient monks has been felt, a big gothic castle stalked Aston Hall by the spirit of a rageful and unjustly West Midlands murdered gamekeeper, the ghosts of This red-brick manor house has Victorian children with a penchant racked up quite a few ghosts since for moving objects and disembodied it was completed in the s. The laughter, and a blacksmith who very first tenant, Sir Thomas Holte, walks the castle grounds, plus allegedly murdered his cook, and the ruins of the twelfth-century the ghost of his daughter, who he Margam Abbey, which are enough locked away for years until her on their own to make the hairs on the death, is also said to wander the back of your neck stand up. halls alongside Holte’s houseboy Free. Please note: non-essential travel and a ‘green lady’, thought to be to Wales is banned until Nov 9. his housekeeper. Keep your eyes www.margamcountrypark.co.uk

Time Out London October 27 – November 2 2020 38 Escapes

Find more spooky sights at timeout.com/daytrips

Margam Country Park

Duntulm Castle fact, its villagers proudly boast of Isle of Skye their spot in the ‘Guinness Book of There’s something ethereal and Records’ as Britain’s ‘most haunted other about the Isle of Skye, with village’, thanks to the official its mind-boggling landscapes and apparitions that roam the place. Whitby Abbey mystical places with names like Swing by to see if you get a visitation the Fairy Pools and Fairy Glen. The from a phantom coach and horses, ruins of Duntulm Castle, which a tree-dwelling highwayman, a Manningtree Essex cling to the northern tip of the schoolmaster, a small white dog and Modern witches might want to island, are no exception. It was several others – there’s such a list steer clear of the Essex town built in the late fourteenth century that you’d have every right to feel a of Manningtree. It’s where the before being abandoned around bit gypped if you don’t see one. self-appointed Witchfinder . Now it’s so unstable that the General Matthew Hopkins lived clifftop fortress is best appreciated Pendle Hill Lancashire in the seventeenth century. from a safe viewing distance. Keep Looming over hamlets and His, erm, efforts resulted in the your eyes peeled, though, for the farmland in rural Lancashire, deaths of hundreds of women ghost of a nursemaid, murdered Pendle Hill is a properly stunning in East Anglia’s witch trials. If after she accidentally dropped a landscape feature. But it’s got a you don’t feel the ancient anger clan chief’s baby out of the window troubled, dark past. In , ten of the persecuted there, you and into the sea below. Bad day at local people known as the ‘Pendle could spot the ghost of Hopkins the office. witches’ were executed nearby himself. Sightings of him have following a trial at Lancaster Castle. happened during full moons Pluckley Kent Some say the hill is still haunted in the neighbouring village of A stunningly picturesque village in by the spirits of those who lost Mistley, by the pond where he Kent, Pluckley is known for being their lives, and there have been a infamously drowned so many the place where cosy TV series ‘The number of alleged sightings over innocent people. Know when the Darling Buds of May’ was filmed – the years. Whatever you believe it’s

SKIRID MOUNTAIN INN: PAUL HEATON/ALAMY; MANNINGTREE: PAUL WISHART/SHUTTERSTOCK PAUL MANNINGTREE: HEATON/ALAMY; PAUL INN: MOUNTAIN SKIRID Manningtree next full moon falls? That would and also for being entirely overrun an undeniably atmospheric and

IMAGES be Halloween. Cool cool. with rather less cosy ghosts. In dramatic place.

39 October 27 – November 2 2020 Time Out London Escapes

Blickling Hall

Berry Pomeroy Castle which was built on the site of her Devon childhood home, every May on the A fifteenth-century ruin in a wood? anniversary of her execution. Her Classic ghost-spotting territory. This anguished dad has also been spotted grand castle, which was abandoned roaming the countryside, while you centuries ago, has a number of might hear or come across the spirits creepy tales attached to it. People of two other former homeowners have reported hearing screams inside the hall, too. and feeling chills there and bearing £10. Booking essential. scratches or bruises after leaving www.nationaltrust.org.uk the castle. The ghosts of Lady Margaret Pomeroy, who Skirrid supposedly starved Mountain Inn to death in the castle’s Modern Monmouthshire dungeons, and two Plenty of pubs have Pomeroy brothers who witches grisly tales to tell, but leapt from the castle’s this ancient boozer in might Berry Pomeroy ramparts rather than the Brecon Beacons Castle be caught by their want to has more than most. enemies, are said to Punters have reported haunt the site. steer hearing slamming £6.90. Booking essential. doors, loud footsteps in case you need a reminder of its to the ghost of a young nun who www.english-heritage.org.uk clear of and whispered creepy history with your pint. was bricked up alive in the walls voices. Legend has Please note: non-essential travel into Wales is after breaking her vows. Oh, and a Blickling Hall this Essex it that’s because the banned until Nov 9. phantom hearse with four headless Norfolk building was once horses and a headless driver has This is the place for town used as a court of Whitby Abbey Yorkshire been spotted parked in front of St spotting a real celebrity law, and hundreds of Whitby the perfect setting for a Mary’s Church, in the shadow of the phantom. According defendants were put to ghost story. As if the gothic vibe and Abbey. Whooooooo! ■ to legend, the headless death in the inn itself. A ‘Dracula’ connection isn’t spine- Ellie Walker-Arnott ghost of Anne Boleyn noose now hangs in the tingling enough, the atmospheric Ghost Tours. Wed Oct 28-Sat Oct 31. £15. HERITAGE ENGLISH © POMEROY: BERRY LACEY; IMAGES/CHRIS TRUST NATIONAL © HALL: BLICKLING

returns to the hall, historic bar. You know, Whitby Abbey is said to be home Booking essential. www.english-heritage.org.uk IMAGES

Time Out London October 27 – November 2 2020 40 Escapes Wake up in a weird wonderland

Birch is the new hotel/yoga studio/ workshop space of your bougie London dreams

BACK IN 1878, a banjo-playing West End courtesan married a brewery heir and moved into his stately home in Hertfordshire. Valerie Langdon, the new Lady Meux, had a flair for the eccentric: she installed a roller rink and a swimming pool, collected racehorses and ancient Egyptian Birch’s workspace scarabs, and was known for riding around London in a carriage drawn by two zebras. Now her estate – and type of music festival: pottery, The food at the site’s more casual the usual hotel vibe, and a great way her offbeat legacy – has been taken spoon-carving, film screenings, restaurant, Valeries – another nod to to meet people (okay, maybe not on by Birch: a one-of-a-kind sort of outdoor yoga… But wait – there’s milady – is also banging. right now). place which, it claims, ‘looks like a also a workspace, a fancy restaurant, Meanwhile in the rooms, the beds The main draw of Birch, though, is hotel, feels like a festival’. a farm, a curated boutique and an are enormous and lavish. Birch’s that it’s close – closer than close – to ‘What the hell does that actually ‘interactive bakery’. Confused? You environmental credentials are solid, the capital. It’s well under an hour’s mean?’ you may well ask. First, will be. This is a huge, sprawling and include an on-site ‘full-circle’ train ride from Liverpool Street, but picture a grand country-house estate, and there’s a lot going on. farm. And it’s all geared up for digital it still feels like a real escape: a weird hotel with a trendy London twist – a There are many great things about natives, with wi-fi everywhere. You wonderland that’s simultaneously Babington House or a Lime Wood, Birch. Number one is The Zebra even WhatsApp if you fancy some very London and a world away. ■ minus the spa. Then add in the kind Riding Club: a very, very good new room service. James Manning of activities and classes you might restaurant by Robin Gill of south The activities mostly cost extra, Birch, Cheshunt, Hertfordshire. From £110 find on the fringes of the posher London’s The Dairy and Darby’s. but they’re a refreshing change from a night. www.birchcommunity.com

THREE OF THE BEST Castles you can actually stay in

Upton Castle Pembrokeshire Rosslyn Castle Midlothian Astley Castle Warwickshire Now a private family home, this grand castle Rosslyn has mega-thick walls and a dungeon and This sixteenth-century manor house was left a dates back to the thirteenth century. It’s not open is surrounded by ancient woodland and the ruins ruin in the s after a fire, then brought back to to the public but you can stay in a room in the west of an even older fortification. Inside, you’ll find life with some Riba-award-winning architecture wing for a few nights. Breakfast is served in the an open fire and grand panelled rooms. You’ll feel that adds modern design to the original walls. The dining room downstairs. Bonus points if you spot like you’ve fallen through time, despite being just result, which you can book out all to yourself, is a peacock (not in the dining room). a few miles outside modern-day Edinburgh. pretty incredible. ■ Ellie Walker-Arnott Sleeps two. From £90 a night. wwww.airbnb.co.uk Sleeps six. From £562 for four nights. www.landmarktrust.org.uk Sleeps eight. From £1,215 for four nights. www.landmarktrust.org.uk

BIRCH: ADAM FIRMAN; ROSSLYN CASTLE: JILL TATE; ASTLEY CASTLE: JOHN MILLER JOHN CASTLE: ASTLEY TATE; JILL CASTLE: ROSSLYN FIRMAN; ADAM BIRCH: Book beds for regal naps at

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41 October 27 – November 2 2020 Time Out London Film

Edited by Phil de Semlyen timeout.com/film @timeoutfilm

Moore magic

Cartoon Saloon’s Tom Moore on his Catch me favourite animations if you canis

Wolfwalkers The Tale of Princess Kaguya ‘A beautiful, expressive animation that brings this retelling of the Japanese folk tale to vivid life.’

101 Dalmatians TO THE NAMES of Pixar, army. Charged with ridding the beautifully balances heady joys (of ‘Disney’s classic has Aardman and Studio Ghibli, it’s area of its wolves, the pair are soon discovery and adventure) and deep great characters and high time to add Cartoon Saloon. venturing outside the city walls sorrows (missing mums, brutal a hand-drawn aesthetic The Irish studio may only be four and into forests teeming with repression). It cracks jokes – look that leaves the animators’ movies in but it already belongs mythical life. out for a gag involving a cartful of rough lines on screen.’ in the same lofty company as What follows plays sheep that’s worthy of those animation giants. Its latest out like a family- WHAT IS IT… Aardman – and echoes is another delight: a Celtic folk tale friendly skew on A young wolf hunter ancient injustices. that puts a magical spin on real ‘Game of Thrones’ – stumbles on a clan Writer-directors history and reclaims a grim era of and not just for Bean’s of shapeshifters in Tomm Moore, the Irish life in a flurry of old-school, gruff tones. The sense studio’s co-founder, 1600s Ireland. hand-drawn animation techniques of history, folklore and and Ross Stewart tie and honeyed autumnal colours. dark forests teeming it all together with Ernest & WHY GO… Celestine The story is set in the studio’s with magic all spark For its magical hand- a sweetness that’s home town of Kilkenny in . The together like a drawn beasties. never saccharine and ‘Made in a watercolour English invaders are an oppressive Roman candle. a refusal to shy away style, it’s a funny, gentle occupying force led by Oliver As with the other from the tough stuff tale of a bear and his Directors Tomm Moore, Cromwell (voiced with delicious films in Cartoon that confronts every adoptive mouse daughter.’ Ross Stewart (PG) 103 menace by Simon McBurney). In Saloon’s loose folk-tale childhood. It’s the best mins. In cinemas Oct 30. their ranks are Robyn Goodfellowe trilogy, ‘The Secret of bedtime story you’ll (Honor Kneafsey) and her dad (Sean Kells’ and ‘Song of the come across this Bean), a footsoldier in Cromwell’s Sea’, ‘Wolfwalkers’ year. ■ Phil de Semlyen

Time Out London October 27 – November 2 2020 42 IMAGES MOGUL MOWGLI: © ROB YOUNGSON - PULSE FILMS & BBC Shirley Mogul Mowgli In cinemas Oct 30. Decker (15) 107 mins. back catalogue. gilded and gothic to dive into Jackson’s It will make you want WHY GO… Shirley Jackson. of Hill House’ writer about ‘The Haunting A psychodrama WHAT IS IT… Oct 30. (15) 90 mins. In cinemas rapping triple threat. screenwriting-acting- For Riz Ahmed: a WHY GO… a chronic illness. of stardom is hit with A rapper on the cusp WHAT IS IT… Director Josephine Director Bassam Tariq

ever captured on screen. best visualisations of the writing process Jackson’s art, and ‘Shirley’ is one of the Werewolf’. The main focus, though, is on had Time magazine dubbing her ‘Virginia of. Her command of the gothic horror genre ’50s when such a thing was almost unheard breadwinner in her home in the 1940s and female artistic power. Jackson was the main domestic delirium, Decker tells a story of – to the point of destruction. wife. Soon Rose is drawn into Shirley’s world Fred (Logan Lerman) and Rose, his pregnant the arrival of Stanley’s new research fellow ripping up papers) has been interrupted by Stuhlbarg). Her process (smoking, drinking, professor Stanley Edgar Hyman (Michael her husband, literary critic and college scarcely leaves the home she shares with story ‘The Lottery’. Agoraphobic, she after the publication of her revered short Decker’s feverish psychodrama. boundaries? The tone is set for Josephine inviting Rose into the next life or testing her her, as the sexual tension builds. Is she cap mushroom’. We’ll share it, she tells Rose (Odessa Young), to eat a ‘death Moss), in a forest, goading her houseguest, American author Shirley Jackson (Elisabeth THERE’S A SCENE YOU WAIT AGES blistering stuff. to hold it together in a hospital cubicle. It’s best in Zed’s darkest hour, as he struggles Khan as the father. But Ahmed is at his visceral presence and a great turn by Alyy dad would be formulaic were it not for his in career-best form. Zed’s run-ins with his RPG (Nabhaan Rizwan) nips at his heels. struggles to rebuild, and a younger rival white within – is lobbed at him as he The slur ‘coconut’ – brown on the outside, spotlight and is left feeling like an outsider. autoimmune disease. He falls from the his disapproving family in London. his absences, suggests he reconnect with girlfriend (Aiysha Hart), less impressed with the verge of a big American tour. But his his own music to depict Zed, a rapper on hip-hop outfit Swet Shop Boys IRL) channel to go by, you already feel for the drum If kit. this blood-and-thunder drama is anything examination of identity, family and the past. up the mic as a stricken rapper in a fierce upcoming ‘Sound of Metal’, Riz Ahmed picks metal drummer losing his hearing in the along at once. Before starring as a thrash- diagnosis, and then two of them come musician who gets brought low by a shock Through all the film’s fictionalised, We meet Jackson creatively blocked Ahmed, who also co-wrote the script, is Then comes shock news: Zed has an ‘Mogul Mowgli’ sees Ahmed (part of ■ for a role as an obsessive Stephen A Russell in ‘Shirley’ that finds ■ Katie McCabe 43 10 7 4 ‘Day-o! Dayaaa-o!’ Altogether now: pop-up in Peckham. Cinema’s spooky at the Forbidden Forest 7.30pm. £19.50. 6.30pm. £12.50. 6.30pm. £19.50 and ‘Dracula’. ‘The Devil Rides Out’ two-fer in Docklands: at this classic horror Exsanguination awaits only one… Quite possibly the come out of lockdown. is one good thing to clever Zoom-set horror 133 Copeland Rd. Sun Nov 1, Rio Cinema. Sat Oct 31, Royal Docks. Thu Oct 29, ghoul-com ghoul-com plays Tim Burton’s Beetlejuice Hangout Hammer Halloween devilishly devilishly This Host The recently reopened Prince Charles Prince Charles The recently reopened An American Werewolf Cinema gets local with a showing of a withashowing ofa local Cinema gets round thecornerinPiccadilly Circus. SPOOKY SCREENINGS horror classic that was partly filmed horror thatwas classic filmed partly Prince Charles Cinema. Sun Nov 1, 6.10pm. £12.50. 6 9 3 Michael Myers. notorious bad boy or-death struggle with Strode gets into a life- scream queen Laurie 7.30pm. £10. Fri Oct 30, 8.30pm. £19.50. your back. on Baker Street has distanced? Everyman warp, only socially Fancy doing the time 6.30pm. £10.50 hosting hosting the classic. Ciné-Real film club is than at the Castle? Helsing slug it out Dracula and Van in London Everyman Baker Street. Castle Cinema. Thu Oct 29, Genesis Cinema. Sat Oct 31, THE TEN BEST THIS WEEK to watch Count Where better Dracula Picture Show Horror The Rocky Halloween Curtis’s iconic Jamie Lee Time OutLondon 2020 Time 2 November October 27 – 1 5 8 2 kooky, spooky treat. will be screening this Drive in Film Club place to head, where tweens? Ally Pally is the 5.30pm. £29.50. 11.30am. £15. people. 9.30pm. £35 per car for two It’s on at Luna Drive In. but it’s in the top one. horror film of all time may not be the greatest morning screening. ish horror fave in a family-friendly, panto- Najimy team up in the Parker and Kathy Alexandra Palace. Fri Oct 30, Olympic Studios. Sat Oct 31, Allianz Park. Sat Oct 31, Sarah Jessica Bette Midler, Hocus Pocus Brian Clough, it To misquote The Exorcist ’Weening with Family The Addams Film Film Londoners’ 25 favourite cinemas at timeout.com/film

THIS JOLTING fusion of immigrant The supporting cast provides a drama and supernatural horror clutch of unsupportive characters. turns a scuzzy British council flat Matt Smith represents the surly, into a crucible of grief, half-buried half-interested face of British trauma and skin-crawling frights. bureaucracy as a social worker That sense of incongruity makes it who leaves the couple to fend all the more striking: imagine Mike for themselves, while a curtain- Leigh’s ‘Paranormal Activity’ and twitching neighbour (Vivien Bridson) you’re halfway there. stares on. The subtext is pointed: ‘His House’ is actually the work here’s a society that demands of Remi Weekes, a British writer- Married... integration and assimilation. And director who marshals his original that denies the couple any chance idea with real freshness. His to achieve either. film’s central characters, asylum A miasmic creepiness settles seekers Rial (Wunmi Mosaku) and with demons over things (hello scurrying figures Bol (Sope Dìrísù from ‘Gangs of behind plasterboard walls), but London’),˙ ˙ ˙ arrive in Britain to find ‘His House’ is just as impactful themselves allocated a grimy, run- in its quieter moments. In one, down council house on a forbidding His House a domestic tableau of Bol at his estate in some unspecified part of kitchen table is suddenly inserted the UK. The pair have escaped the into a violent storm at sea – the brutal civil war in South Sudan but constant tug of past trauma on something terrible has happened efforts to start afresh captured in on their 3,500-mile journey by land one haunting motif – and in another, and sea. Its repercussions lie over are often alone as all kinds of a cliché to say it, the house is Bol is shadowed by shop security the film like a fog. supernatural malevolence is visited a character too: a neglected, as he browses for a shirt. Anguish Carefully framed as two on them. It’s a lonely-feeling film forbidding space that Bol picks at comes in many different forms in individuals whose united and Weekes seeps in a sorrowful until its bones are showing. It’ll this scary and sharply realised tale front has been eroded by their sense of alienation among the put that fleapit from your student of dislocation. ■ Phil de Semlyen circumstances, Rial and Bol jumps and shocks. While it’s flatshare days into perspective. On Netflix Oct 30.

NEW TO STREAMING

THE UNDOING THE WITCHES THE MANDALORIAN TRUTH SEEKERS ‘Paddington’ villains Early reviews SEASON 2 Like ‘Rentaghost’, Hugh Grant and are mixed but The best ‘Star Wars’ only without the Nicole Kidman Robert Zemeckis’s offering this side of unconvincing unite for a six-part interpretation ‘Rogue One’ and that panto horse (hello, murder-mystery set of Roald Dahl’s homemade Lego Dobbin!), or in Manhattan’s Martini-sipping sorcerific yarn is here to lob a trailer for ‘The Force Awakens’, ‘Ghostbusters’ relocated to the UK, high society. They’re a power couple few bats into your Halloween ‘The Mandalorian’ is back for this eight-part comedy promises caught up in a brutal murder, while telly-watching pot. The setting another season of Baby Yoda- to be chock-full of paranormal Donald Sutherland pops up as the shifts from ’s England to s adoring, western-riffing, blaster- activities and ghostly goings-on – all rich-as-Croesus in-law. It’s the latest Alabama, and Anne Hathaway slinging, helmet-wearing good with a Frost-and-Pegg comic twist. from TV powerhouse David E Kelley floats in as the child-hating Grand times. The eight episodes land on Nick Frost plays Gus, a broadband (‘Ally McBeal’) so expect lies, both High Witch, with Octavia Spencer Disney weekly, starting on Friday, engineer who moonlights as an big and little, as well as lots of Big and a few CG mice in support. Will it and will send taciturn bounty amateur paranormal investigator, Apple locations. It should fill the match Nicolas Roeg’s magnificently hunter Mando on a quest to find and Samson Kayo is his partner in ‘Succession’ and the not-being-able- nasty version? Pour yourself a Baby Yoda’s home. Hopefully, they slime. Simon Pegg co-wrote and to-go-to-New-York gaps perfectly. stiff potion and find out. haven’t drained that swamp. cameos as Gus’s annoying boss. PRIME PICTURES/AMAZON HUTTON/STOLEN COLIN SEEKERS: TRUTH BROS; SMITH/WARNER DANIEL WITCHES: TAVERNISE/HBO; NIKO UNDOING: MONAGHAN/NETFLIX; AIDAN HOUSE: HIS

On Sky Atlantic and Now TV now. On PVod now. On Disney+ from Oct 30. On Amazon Prime Oct 30. IMAGES

Time Out London October 27 – November 2 2020 44 INSTALL NOW The social app with only positive and personal recommendations