Across the Scagerrak

OCEAN VOYAGING travel more than 700 nautical miles. Nikita was negotiat- ing the narrow channel into the harbor. Her skipper deftly backed the vessel up to a bulk- head and I hurriedly tossed my bags aboard and stepped onto the swim platform, where I was met by her owner, Michael, along with Captain Magnus and mate Ida. After a short run, we arrived in the fishing port of Thyborøn, where we had din- ner aboard and spent the night. The following day, Nikita set off across the Skagerrak for a half-day’s run to the Norwegian coast. Among our first stops was the port Reke- fjord. It would be a stretch to call this a village; there’s no bank, hardware or drug store. Rekefjord is simply a series Across the of homes, docks and count- less small boats surrounding a bowl-shaped depression, in the middle of which is an SkagerrakPower cruising Norway’s fjord coast extremely well-protected harbor that is reached via a narrow pas- STORY AND PHOTOS BY STEVE D’ANTONIO sage. As we entered the harbor we passed, both to port and starboard, a large quarry opera- fter spending it was a warm sun-drenched tion, where granite hills were a few days in spring day. When I arrived in The Fleming being systematically dismantled Copenhagen, I Lemvig, however, I was greeted 75 Nikita in the and turned into gravel. Two hopped a train for by a chill wind laden with Geirangerfjor- 300-foot ships were docked, Aa four-hour ride north across moisture. The North Sea is not den. This fjord, along with a few barges, which Jutland, the peninsula that far away, and its effects were with its snow- were being loaded with gravel. makes up much of Denmark noticeable. After a 30-minute capped moun- While the picture one imagines and separates the North and walk through the village and tains and many is of dirt, dust and industrial Baltic Seas, to Holstebro. From along the shoreline, past fields waterfalls, is grit, nothing could be further there I took a short bus ride to planted with swaying golden acknowledged from the truth. It helps that it the 750-year-old far northern canola flowers, I arrived at the as one of Nor- was drizzling, however, even seaport of Lemvig; the famed marina. Within minutes I saw way’s most if it wasn’t, somehow I don’t WWI Battle of Jutland took Nikita, the Fleming 75 aboard picturesque. think there would be any dust. place not far from its shores. which I was to spend the next It’s the neatest, most squared- When I left Copenhagen, few weeks, during which I’d away quarry I’d ever seen; no 24 OCEAN NAVIGATOR NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 www.oceannavigator.com rust streaks the equipment, no for nearly a full day, including Alesund trash litters the roads, noth- use of the galley range. When ing appears to be out of place. onboard loads exceed what the 62° N The harbor’s history is rooted shore power can supply, the in mining — iron ore was first inverters make up the differ- mined here around the same ence, and when onboard loads NORTH time the Union and Confed- diminish (at night for instance), NORWAY Bergen some of the shore power is used SEA eracy went to war. 60° The village guest dock was to recharge the batteries. Rosendal unoccupied, and it was a good thing because Nikita occupied Sør-Hidle: Skudeneshavn its entire length. After mak- An “oasis” at sea SWEDEN ing our lines fast, we plugged Here lies the horticultural mar- Rekefjord 58° in our twin shore power cords vel Flor & Fjære, which trans- S k a g e r r a k using one of the many adapt- lates to “high and low tide,” a Nikita’s ers Magnus had made up. We jewel in the midst of a sea of route DENMARK were afforded a luxurious twin stone and sand. Lemvig 16-amp supply (8 amps isn’t In 1965, Åsmund and 56° unusual in this region). While Else Marie Bryn bought the this might appear inadequate farmstead Mangela, which was 4° W 6° 8° 10° 12° for a vessel of Nikita’s size, her located on this island, where island, Åsmund and his chil- electrical system is atypical in they built a small cottage as Above, Nikita dren planted trees (one summer that her loads are simultane- a retreat from the bustle of crossed the they planted 2,000 of them) ously shared by the shore power Stavanger. Åsmund owned and Skagerrak and in order to give the cottage a and inverters, which in turn are operated a busy commercial explored Nor- refuge from the unrelenting carried by her 2,000 amp-hour nursery in the city, and the way. Below, northerly wind. lithium-ion battery bank. On island provided a welcome the village of Ultimately, due to its own, the bank can supply retreat. During the family’s Geiringer. Åsmund’s failing health, he all of Nikita’s electrical needs summer residences on the and Else Marie decided in 1975 to move to the island permanently. After being here for a few months, Åsmund needed something to occupy his time, and thus he planted a garden, the harvest from which was sent to the nursery back in Stavanger. Strangely enough, Åsmund’s health began to improve. By 1995, the barren, wind-swept island retreat had been transformed into a veritable Garden of Eden with its own microclimate. In this year, Åsmund’s son Olav Bryn opened the gardens to the public, hosting tours and recep- tions. Much to the family’s sur- www.oceannavigator.com NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 OCEAN NAVIGATOR 25 prise, in the first summer more as we began our sojourn by the many perimeter trees than 7,000 guests ferried to the through the gardens the sun Above, the planted by Åsmund and his island to drink in its splendor, appeared and remained our panoramic family decades ago, it offers a and the word spread. Today, companion for the rest of the view of Lyse- warm environment, literally visits to the island’s gardens day. fjord as seen and figuratively, one that sup- and gourmet restaurant, which The garden has continued to from Preikes- ports semi-tropical fauna, while is overseen by 20-year veteran grow under the watchful eyes tolen, or Pulpit offering an inviting haven to Dutch chef Andre Mulder, of Olav Bryn and his wife Siri, Rock. Below, those who visit. exceed 30,000. Visitors have who acted as our guide. The Nikita‘s first included all three houses of variety of plants and trees, not mate scans the Traditional villages Norway’s royal family, and the to mention koi, was nothing helm station’s Located on the southernmost location has hosted the Norwe- less than astonishing, particu- nav instru- tip of the island of Karmøy, gian Chess Tournament. larly when one considers the ments as the the charming fishing and ship I’ll confess, when Michael latitude at which it resides — vessel makes repair village of Skudeneshavn inquired as to whether I’d like about the same as Northern its way through is home to just 3,000 people, to visit Flor & Fjære, a garden Labrador. The plants range Lysefjord. making it one of Norway’s that included an entrance fee, from roses and bonsai trees to smallest towns. In 1990, it won not wanting to be the stick in cacti and windmill palms, and second prize for Norway’s “Best the mud I reluctantly agreed. each garden contains exotic Preserved Small Town,” and its The sojourn turned out to be plants from the world over, 225 immaculately kept wooden an especially memorable feast punctuated by small lakes, houses, many of which date for the eyes, lens and palate. stone bridges and waterfalls. back to the 1840s, are regarded While the day dawned cloudy, Thanks to the shelter created as some of the best preserved in Europe. When we arrived there it was gray, chilly and drizzling; however, the following day ranks as the best weather I encountered during my time aboard Nikita. The village’s white homes gleamed in bril- liant sunshine, and a steady procession of small power and sailing vessels ran out of the port all day, several of which 26 OCEAN NAVIGATOR NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 www.oceannavigator.com were crewed entirely by middle- course,” he said, “the village is ited; snow-capped mountain school-age children as part much different because of oil.” ranges 30 miles away were of the town’s sea education He hesitated for a moment as clearly visible. It was warm program. A traditional seafar- he stared into the distance, con- enough to eat lunch on the ing festival is held here in late juring up images of his youth, I flybridge. We steamed for two June or early July. Known as imagine, and then said, “Much hours to the island of Bjergøy, Skudefestivalen, it runs for four has changed, and Norway is which is across a narrow strait days and is the largest gathering now wealthy.” He also noted, from Ramsvig Handelsstad. A of coastal culture in the region, local guide we met at a previous attracting both old and modern port call insisted we must stop vessels of all kinds, including here for a meal — he guaran- tall ships. Craftsmen demon- strate traditional boatbuilding skills and barrel and model making in addition to operat- ing antique engines. Left, with his In addition to its picturesque “crush” cap setting, Skudeneshavn is also a and trimmed center for ship repair, complete beard, the with a dry dock in which a mate aboard steel fishing vessel was being the fishing repaired.

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