OCEAN VOYAGING

travel more than 700 nautical miles. Nikita was negotiat- ing the narrow channel into the harbor. Her skipper deftly backed the vessel up to a bulk- head and I hurriedly tossed my bags aboard and stepped onto the swim platform, where I was met by her owner, Michael, along with Captain Magnus and mate Ida. After a short run, we arrived in the fishing port of Thyborøn, where we had din- ner aboard and spent the night. The following day, Nikita set off across the Skagerrak for a half-day’s run to the Norwegian coast. Among our first stops was the port Reke- fjord. It would be a stretch to call this a village; there’s no bank, hardware or drug store. Rekefjord is simply a series Across the of homes, docks and count- less small boats surrounding a bowl-shaped depression, in the middle of which is an SkagerrakPower cruising ’s fjord coast extremely well-protected harbor that is reached via a narrow pas- STORY AND PHOTOS BY STEVE D’ANTONIO sage. As we entered the harbor we passed, both to port and starboard, a large quarry opera- fter spending it was a warm sun-drenched tion, where granite hills were a few days in spring day. When I arrived in The Fleming being systematically dismantled Copenhagen, I Lemvig, however, I was greeted 75 Nikita in the and turned into gravel. Two hopped a train for by a chill wind laden with Geirangerfjor- 300-foot ships were docked, aA four-hour ride north across moisture. The North Sea is not den. This fjord, along with a few barges, which Jutland, the peninsula that far away, and its effects were with its snow- were being loaded with gravel. makes up much of Denmark noticeable. After a 30-minute capped moun- While the picture one imagines and separates the North and walk through the village and tains and many is of dirt, dust and industrial Baltic Seas, to Holstebro. From along the shoreline, past fields waterfalls, is grit, nothing could be further there I took a short bus ride to planted with swaying golden acknowledged from the truth. It helps that it the 750-year-old far northern canola flowers, I arrived at the as one of Nor- was drizzling, however, even seaport of Lemvig; the famed marina. Within minutes I saw way’s most if it wasn’t, somehow I don’t WWI Battle of Jutland took Nikita, the Fleming 75 aboard picturesque. think there would be any dust. place not far from its shores. which I was to spend the next It’s the neatest, most squared- When I left Copenhagen, few weeks, during which I’d away quarry I’d ever seen; no

24 OCEAN NAVIGATOR NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 www.oceannavigator.com rust streaks the equipment, no for nearly a full day, including Alesund trash litters the roads, noth- use of the galley range. When ing appears to be out of place. onboard loads exceed what the 62° N The harbor’s history is rooted shore power can supply, the in mining — iron ore was first inverters make up the differ-

mined here around the same ence, and when onboard loads NORTH time the Union and Confed- diminish (at night for instance), NORWAY some of the shore power is used SEA eracy went to war. 60° The village guest dock was to recharge the batteries. Rosendal unoccupied, and it was a good thing because Nikita occupied Sør-Hidle: Skudeneshavn its entire length. After mak- An “oasis” at sea N E D E W S ing our lines fast, we plugged Here lies the horticultural mar- Rekefjord 58° in our twin shore power cords vel Flor & Fjære, which trans- S k a g e r r a k using one of the many adapt- lates to “high and low tide,” a Nikita’s ers Magnus had made up. We jewel in the midst of a sea of route DENMARK were afforded a luxurious twin stone and sand. Lemvig 16-amp supply (8 amps isn’t In 1965, Åsmund and 56° unusual in this region). While Else Marie Bryn bought the this might appear inadequate farmstead Mangela, which was 4° W 6° 8° 10° 12° for a vessel of Nikita’s size, her located on this island, where island, Åsmund and his chil- electrical system is atypical in they built a small cottage as Above, Nikita dren planted trees (one summer that her loads are simultane- a retreat from the bustle of crossed the they planted 2,000 of them) ously shared by the shore power Stavanger. Åsmund owned and Skagerrak and in order to give the cottage a and inverters, which in turn are operated a busy commercial explored Nor- refuge from the unrelenting carried by her 2,000 amp-hour nursery in the city, and the way. Below, northerly wind. lithium-ion battery bank. On island provided a welcome the village of Ultimately, due to its own, the bank can supply retreat. During the family’s Geiringer. Åsmund’s failing health, he all of Nikita’s electrical needs summer residences on the and Else Marie decided in 1975 to move to the island permanently. After being here for a few months, Åsmund needed something to occupy his time, and thus he planted a garden, the harvest from which was sent to the nursery back in Stavanger. Strangely enough, Åsmund’s health began to improve. By 1995, the barren, wind-swept island retreat had been transformed into a veritable Garden of Eden with its own microclimate. In this year, Åsmund’s son Olav Bryn opened the gardens to the public, hosting tours and recep- tions. Much to the family’s sur- www.oceannavigator.com NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 OCEAN NAVIGATOR 25 prise, in the first summer more as we began our sojourn by the many perimeter trees than 7,000 guests ferried to the through the gardens the sun Above, the planted by Åsmund and his island to drink in its splendor, appeared and remained our panoramic family decades ago, it offers a and the word spread. Today, companion for the rest of the view of Lyse- warm environment, literally visits to the island’s gardens day. fjord as seen and figuratively, one that sup- and gourmet restaurant, which The garden has continued to from Preikes- ports semi-tropical fauna, while is overseen by 20-year veteran grow under the watchful eyes tolen, or Pulpit offering an inviting haven to Dutch chef Andre Mulder, of Olav Bryn and his wife Siri, Rock. Below, those who visit. exceed 30,000. Visitors have who acted as our guide. The Nikita‘s first included all three houses of variety of plants and trees, not mate scans the Traditional villages Norway’s royal family, and the to mention koi, was nothing helm station’s Located on the southernmost location has hosted the Norwe- less than astonishing, particu- nav instru- tip of the island of Karmøy, gian Chess Tournament. larly when one considers the ments as the the charming fishing and ship I’ll confess, when Michael latitude at which it resides — vessel makes repair village of Skudeneshavn inquired as to whether I’d like about the same as Northern its way through is home to just 3,000 people, to visit Flor & Fjære, a garden Labrador. The plants range Lysefjord. making it one of Norway’s that included an entrance fee, from roses and bonsai trees to smallest towns. In 1990, it won not wanting to be the stick in cacti and windmill palms, and second prize for Norway’s “Best the mud I reluctantly agreed. each garden contains exotic Preserved Small Town,” and its The sojourn turned out to be plants from the world over, 225 immaculately kept wooden an especially memorable feast punctuated by small lakes, houses, many of which date for the eyes, lens and palate. stone bridges and waterfalls. back to the 1840s, are regarded While the day dawned cloudy, Thanks to the shelter created as some of the best preserved in Europe. When we arrived there it was gray, chilly and drizzling; however, the following day ranks as the best weather I encountered during my time aboard Nikita. The village’s white homes gleamed in bril- liant sunshine, and a steady procession of small power and sailing vessels ran out of the port all day, several of which

26 OCEAN NAVIGATOR NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 www.oceannavigator.com were crewed entirely by middle- course,” he said, “the village is ited; snow-capped mountain school-age children as part much different because of oil.” ranges 30 miles away were of the town’s sea education He hesitated for a moment as clearly visible. It was warm program. A traditional seafar- he stared into the distance, con- enough to eat lunch on the ing festival is held here in late juring up images of his youth, I flybridge. We steamed for two June or early July. Known as imagine, and then said, “Much hours to the island of Bjergøy, Skudefestivalen, it runs for four has changed, and Norway is which is across a narrow strait days and is the largest gathering now wealthy.” He also noted, from Ramsvig Handelsstad. A of coastal culture in the region, local guide we met at a previous attracting both old and modern port call insisted we must stop vessels of all kinds, including here for a meal — he guaran- tall ships. Craftsmen demon- strate traditional boatbuilding skills and barrel and model making in addition to operat- ing antique engines. Left, with his In addition to its picturesque “crush” cap setting, Skudeneshavn is also a and trimmed center for ship repair, complete beard, the with a dry dock in which a mate aboard steel fishing vessel was being the fishing repaired. I chatted with a local vessel MS resident, long retired and in his Rapp looks the 80s, who grew up here; when with an element of pride, that part. Right, he was a young man, because one large oil support vessel, MS Rogaland, “the town was too poor,” he which was berthed nearby and moored in spent his career working around towered over the village, was Stavanger, was the world in the oil industry, instrumental in capping the built in 1929 and then returned to enjoy his infamous Deepwater Horizon and played retirement. He shared a few well. the part of the interesting stories and facts. He Nikita cast off her lines and hospital ship in noted that when he was young, left Skudeneshavn in her wake. the recent film fishing was the only trade open She cruised over a cobalt sea Dunkirk. to young men, many of whom and under a virtually cloudless emigrated to America. “Now of azure sky. Visibility was unlim- www.oceannavigator.com NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 OCEAN NAVIGATOR 27 teed an unforgettable experi- rebuilt by the current own- the sink, “A former CIA chief ence. ers over the past 17 years into Nearly mid- peeled potatoes right here with When we first contacted the a luxury conference center, night in Åle- me,” and then, seeming to not Ramsvig Handelsstad Inn to which, being not far from sund and the be able to hold it in, confided, make dinner reservations, they Stavanger, caters primarily to sun is only “…it was Stansfield Turner.” nearly hung up on us, thinking the world’s oil industry and just setting. The guide could not have been (as they later told us) we were ensures absolute privacy by Ålesund played more right: It was a memorable telemarketers. When we arrived hosting only one group at a a pivotal role and enjoyable evening. at their dock earlier in the day, time. Buildings are made using in WWII as a With a population of about they veritably kicked us off, slate roofs and heavy vintage center for the 800, the tiny village of Rosen- claiming a function would take timbers and planks, which transport of dal, located on the southern place shortly. We were simply house conference rooms, a members of the shore of the Hardangerfjorden, not welcome. dining room and 15 double resistance. is about six miles west of the An auspicious start it was suites along with a newly built sprawling Folgefonna glacier, not; however, the staff more art gallery. The former bakery which we visited and where than made up for this early has been transformed into a we spent the morning skiing. rocky footing as they later modern kitchen that is overseen One of the village’s highlights welcomed us for a specially pre- by master chef Árnie Ívar The- revolves around the 17th cen- pared dinner at which we were odorsson. tury Barony Rosendal — a the only guests. The Icelandic After dinner, which included historic estate and gardens chef presented and described local crab and halibut, we were located within the village, clas- each course as it was served, escorted to the subterranean sified as Scandinavia’s smallest and proprietors Mette and Jos- bar where Jostein served aqua- castle. Built in the 13th cen- tein Soland shared with us tales vit and regaled us with tales tury and rebuilt in the 1820s, of the inn and island’s past (the of his worldwide wanderings Church is also room in which we ate included and literary exploits (he is a located here. Rosendal is also a vintage shop counter, com- former professor of Scandi- known for its shipbuilders (in plete with goods from the ’30s navian literature and taught 1900 there were more than 300 and ’40s, including cigarettes for a time at the University of registered shipbuilders within rolled with Norwegian tobacco Washington, living in Seattle’s the municipality), including the made during the war). famed Ballard neighborhood famed Skaalurens Skibsbyggeri The former trading post, where, surrounded by Scandi- yard, which first began building which was first constructed navian heritage, he says he felt wooden vessels here in 1855 in the 16th century, has been very much at home). At one and built Norwegian explorer transformed, renovated and point he told me, pointing to Roald Amundsen’s Gjoa, for his

28 OCEAN NAVIGATOR NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 www.oceannavigator.com Northwest Passage expedition. town square, a bronze statue mechanical, it was a veritable Before Nikita departed this Below left, honors one of Rosendal’s own nirvana. In addition to the tra- port, I made the 25-minute the 99-year- Fjord horses, the award-win- ditional large circular rotating trek from the waterfront to the old funicular ning stallion Rosendalborken, blade, a second machine was Rosendal Barony, the “castle.” in Bergen which belonged to the owner of also present; it uses a series of The grounds and gardens are transports pas- the Castle Rosendal in the mid- reciprocating blades and pow- among the most enchanting sengers to the 19th century. ered feed rollers that are capable and well kept of any I’ve seen. top of Mount Originally from the moun- of simultaneously cutting a Given the time, I could blissful- Fløyen. Below tainous regions of western large log into several planks. It’s ly walk the paths that crisscross right, the mani- Norway, the Fjord horse is an ingenious piece of machin- the estate all day long. cured grounds While there, I asked a of the Rosendal woman working in one of the Barony, known expansive vegetable gardens to locals as where I could find an example “the castle.” of the Norwegian Fjord Horse, the country’s own stout breed. She gave me directions to a riding club where two mares and a foal were corralled. I’m

said to be agile and of good ery that, given the time, I’d temperament, and these were pore over for hours while inves- no exception. They quickly tigating its inner workings. came to the fence as I walked up and nibbled on my hand, The final port call camera and coat. One of the At 11 p.m., the sun was seem- world’s oldest breeds, believed ingly fixed in setting mode, to have first migrated to Nor- and the sky was a mixture of way more than 4,000 years yellow, blue and orange hues. ago, they were selectively bred A couple was silhouetted on a by Vikings at least 2,000 years distant jetty as they, too, took no equestrian, but in my high- ago and because of their isola- in the ever-so-slowly unfold- latitude travels I’ve encountered tion in , they ing spectacle. What’s fleeting and taken an interest in a num- remained a pure breed. The in the middle latitudes can last ber of unique breeds, including Fjord horse has been used for for hours when one ventures Newfoundland, Faroese and centuries as a working farm to the far northern or southern Icelandic ponies. I made my horse in Norway. regions. As a photographer, way there and was not disap- Adjacent to the stable was high-latitude lighting has an pointed: They were handsome a working, vintage water- ethereal quality all its own, and examples, buff-colored with powered sawmill. The shop was the extended sunrises and sun- a distinctive clipped two-tone open and I walked through. sets are especially gratifying. mane and a sturdy body. In the For those who love things In addition to being the www.oceannavigator.com NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 OCEAN NAVIGATOR 29 home of Rollo, the 10th-cen- fishing boats known as Møre submarine chasers, which were tury founder of the dynasty of Mountains, Cutters that were unique to the faster and safer than the fishing the dukes of Normandy, Åle- waterfalls and Ålesund area. The boats were vessels — all of which survived sund was also known as “Little isolated farm- timber and between 50 and the war. London” during WWII, both steads serve 70 feet with twin masts and With a heavy heart, I bade because of resistance activity as a backdrop a single-cylinder semi-diesel farewell to Nikita and my ship- that took place in and around as a sailboat engine. Most crossings were mates, Michael, Ida and Mag- it, as well as the frequent small ghosts through made during the winter, which nus. When I arrived aboard boat crossings known as the one of the afforded the Shetland Bus two and a half weeks prior, I “Shetland Bus” made between many chan- the camouflage of long dark was a complete stranger. I was, it and Scotland’s Shetland nels between nights while also subjecting it however, immediately adopted Islands. The exploits of those the mainland to notorious North Sea gales. and made to feel welcomed and who ran the Shetland Bus are and Norway’s A number of these vessels and a part of the family and crew by the stuff of legend. Early in countless bar- their crews were lost through all from the very first day. n the war, all of the crossings rier islands. enemy action or in bad weath- — carrying resistance fight- er. A respite arrived, thanks to Steve D’Antonio is a marine ers, saboteurs and agents, as the U.S Navy, which in 1943 systems expert, writer and photog- well as supplies in and refugees provided the Shetland Bus with rapher (stevedmarineconsulting. out — were made using local four steel, 110-foot former com).

The inspirational Pulpit Rock

Lysefjord, nearly 2,000 Preikestolen or “the sands every year, there feet below, carved Pulpit Rock,” with my was nothing to indicate its way through the shipmates and just half a that anyone had ever granite landscape; its dozen other hikers who stood here before. The smooth waters looked had also made the early closer I stood, kneeled as if they’d been cast in morning hike. There and then crawled up obsidian. The vista was were no guardrails, to the sheer drop-off, simply jaw-dropping, no warning signs, no attempting to gain the and hours could be restrooms or water foun- ideal vantage point for spent absorbing its many tains — it was unadul- photos, the better it felt. nuances. I shared the terated beauty. In fact, It was spiritual. granite plateau, called although visited by thou- Steve D’Antonio

30 OCEAN NAVIGATOR NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 www.oceannavigator.com