2 - the reykjavík grapevine - august 8th - august 21st, 2003

THE VIEW FROM THE INSIDE YEARNING TO BREATHE FREE THE PLIGHT OF 6 IMMIGRANTS IN ICELAND ICELAND AND THE OUTSIDE WORLD FLIRTING OR A FULL 8 TIME RELATIONSHIP? GAY PRIDE 10 AS MUCH FUN AS IT SOUNDS THE MAIN EVENT CULTURE NIGHT: WHAT´S GOING ON? 14

LETTERS: WHALES, GENETISTS, SPORTS: HOW TO PICK YOUR 4 GERMANS AND THE KKK 20 FAVORITE LOCAL FOOTBALL TEAM

EDITORIAL: MONDAY MORNING EVENT: TEDDI, CARVING 5 COMING DOWN, THE TOURIST 21 OUT THE TRUTH

FOOD: WHAT´S IT LIKE BEFORE IT NIGHTLIFE: BOOKS VS. BEER. A 12 COMES TO THE SUPERMARKET? 22 FOREGONE CONCLUSION?

T3: HE´S BACK (JUST HAD TO SAY FROM THE UNDERGROUND: WILL 13 THAT), CINEMA LISTINGS 23 THE FREE THINKERS BE HEARD?

MAP PUBS, COFFEE SHOPS AND ART: THE SIGURJÓN ÓLAFSSON 16 FOOD: ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW 24 MUSEUM

INTERVIEW: BEHIND THE EYES OF JUSTICE: ARE ICELAND´S LEADERS 19 THE ICELANDIC LOVE CORPORATION 26 WAR CRIMINALS?

THE REYKJAVíK GRAPEVINE ISSUE FIVE, AUGUST 8TH - AUGUST 21ST 2003 Publisher: Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson Editor: Valur Gunnarsson Co-Editors: Jón Trausti Sigurðarson & John Boyce Production director & listings editor: Oddur Óskar Kjartansson Graphic design & Layout: Hörður Kristbjörnsson, ([email protected]) Advertising Directors: Jón Trausti & Hilmar Steinn Photographer: Aldís Pálsdóttir Proof reading: John Boyce & Ingunn Snædal Cover by: Aldís On cover: The Icelandic Love Corporation The Reykjavík Grapevine Printed by: Prentsmiðja Morgunblaðsins Blómvallagötu 2 101 Reykjavík # of Copies: 25.000 Phone numbers: We are always looking for new material. Be warned, however, that it Publisher: 898-9249 is the fi rm policy of the editor not to pay people for their work. Ads: 898-9249 / 869-7796 Grapevine is open to every form of opinion. The articles, however, Articles: 845-2152, Listings: 849-5611

do not always refl ect the opinion of the editorship. e-mail: [email protected] Photos: Aldís and Bára 2 - the reykjavík grapevine - august 8th - august 21st, 2003 4 - the reykjavík grapevine - august 8th - august 21st, 2003 august 8th - august 21st, 2003 - the reykjavík grapevine - 5

LETTERS Feel like bitching about the weather or the prices, need reassurance but your friends won´t talk to you, want to open your heart but even the drunks at your local bar won´t listen, just can´t stop raving about Grapevine or if there´s anything at all we can do for you, you´ve always got a sympathetic ear here in the letters column (especially for the latter). Please send your mail to [email protected], or just stick it in the mailbox addressed to: The Reykjavík Grapevine, Blómvallagata 2, 101 Reykjavík. Good Afternoon, Congratulations on an insightful and informative newspaper. A friend of mine recently returned from a hiking trip to your country. I just finished reading a copy of your newspaper, which he happened to pick up while he was there. I wish to ask a question and make a comment about a heading on one of the pictures on page 12, the “Culture” section of the paper. The pictures show a number of white clad figures with funny hats and clothes on their bodies performing various poses. The caption for the picture says, “The Ku Klux Klan practices its morning aerobics”. What I want to know is “do the performers actually call their group “The Ku Klux Klan”, and if they do, are they aware of the negative connotations that the name carries. My friend was quite excited about his trip and I hope to make a trip over in the A picture of the picture in question. Notice the absence of burning crosses, indicating that near future. this is not the Ku Klux Klan, contrary to popular belief. Ciao, A Curious Reader newspapers at newsstands on the Dear Grapevine: waterfront, or around the city anywhere. One hundred, five hundred, and a This is not, in fact, the KKK, mostly known Maybe in Boston, New York or up in thousand years ago, there were many for wearing sheets, burning crosses and St. Johns Newfoundland, but not here. more whales in the sea than now. Also, taking friendly black folks and hanging Good to read about what is going on there were many more fish in the sea them from trees, but the Other House Janseits der grosses leiches In Eisland. than now. The shortage of both today is a Street Theatre, mostly known for wearing (I know you guys can speak German) direct result of human beings harvesting sheets and entertaining passersby in both whales and fish at a greater rate Reykjavik during the summer, hence Terry Hillom than their populations could sustain. making hanging about in the sun doing Skipper If the “balance theory,” which is to be nothing much more enjoyable for all. The Littlejohns Island, Maine, Marine Lobster used to justify restarting the hunt on reason for the title was something we in Fishing boat, “Das Boot.” whales, were valid (that is, less predation Iceland like to refer to as a “djók.” PS. Say Hallo to our Viking Buddy, results in more prey, suggesting that “Hagar Der Schrecklich!! For US. fewer whales means more fish, and Hello guys, more whales means fewer fish), then First of all congratulations on your paper And a Heil Rumsfeld to you too, Mein the centuries’ long decline of whales it is funny, in English and free... Herr. Contrary to popular belief, should have resulted in a centuries’ Three great things. Grapevine does not speak German, long increase in fish populations. Alas, I work in Decode Genetics and there having slept its way through most of the fish declined as well, and from the are approxiately fifty foreigners with the secondary school. However, this will same cause, overfishing by humans. If company. At the moment we receive probably be remedied on Culture Night, the “balance theory” were valid, and if Icelandic newspapers. As a foreigner, I as the Goethe Zentrum are teaching we want more fish in the sea (in order look at just 3 items in an Icelandic paper German in 20 minutes, after which the to kill more of them), we should reduce ; pictures, ads and weather Forecast country will no doubt speak German the effects of their main predator. Human I have stop looking at the TV guide fluently and it will replace English as the beings should be taking fewer fish from since I do not care to watch Innlit-Útlit language proliferating in Icelandic. Until the sea than they now are. Talk about or Icelandic weddings on TV. The “Deep then, Auf Wiedersehn. being between a rock and a hard place. Pool” is ok, as I can watch how young Cheers, people look for fame... Dear TRG, Bert Murray So, since we need an English This morning rain was pouring down and newspaper and you are here to save 20m/s winds, but it was still an exciting Actually, there were probably fewer the UNIVERSE and at the same time adventure to distribute the Grapevine. whales in the sea 100 years ago due my brain, can we please have 50 Sat. Sun and Monday. Monday is an to too much hunting. Of course human copies at the office. important day to have the ferry stocked, harvesting has led to a long term decline Good luck guys and girls... because it will be FULL and a lot of in both fish and whale population. What people will need pillows to sleep on and the balance theory points out is that if Thank you very much. It is good to know places to throw up, that is a great thing the main predator, us, concentrates that the boys at DeCode watch the about the Grapevine, you can use them exclusively on one species and not the Deep Pool. With the miracle of modern for a lot of things...... just a little joke other, on fish while leaving the whales science, one day we might all look like poking fun at the drunks. alone, then the result can only be them. Now that would be saving the Best Regards, that there will be too little fish to feed Universe. Michael Parks both whales and humans. Nature, of course, has a solution to this problem. Gentlemen, Our circulation department in the It´s called famine. But we, as at least The Grapevine is an excellent and Westman Islands seems to have been semi-intelligent creatures, cannot accept informative newspaper about Iceland, its busy preparing for the coming onslaught. famine as a viable option, any more than culture and its people! The plan was to get them out before all we can accept it as a way to deal with Unfortunately for Americans of hell broke loose. We hope they made it overpopulation in, say, Africa (although Scandinavian and German heritage, you back to the mainland safely. this in effect might seem to be the cannot find German or Scandinavian case).

WULFFMORGENTHALER

see more at www.wulffmorgenthaler.com 4 - the reykjavík grapevine - august 8th - august 21st, 2003 august 8th - august 21st, 2003 - the reykjavík grapevine - 5

FROM THE EDITOR

MONDAY MORNING COMING DOWN Monday morning after Verslunarmannahelgi. Something’s wrong. I sit up and my surroundings seem strangely familiar. At first glance, this does not seem to be a moss- covered hill somewhere in the middle of nowhere, or even an unknown tent. On closer inspection, it actually turns out to be my own room. I feel strange. There’s no headache, no dry throat. My body doesn’t ache all over. I attempt to gather my thoughts, and find I can actually remember the preceding day. As it turns out, there’s not much to remember. This had been my first sober Verslunarmannahelgi since I started sprouting pubic hair, an event that seems to have driven me to drink. The furthest I got out of the city was when I attempted to go swimming in the swimming pool in Kópavogur, which, as it turned out, was just closing. What was this?, the inevitable onset of middle age? Waistline had duly expanded, and hair seemed to be thinning. It’s just my imagination, I kept telling myself. I was heavily in debt, although this has got more to do with boozing and unsuccessful recording ventures than mortgage or marriage. That, and the Icelandic banks´ inexhaustible will to lend seemingly anybody money. Almost everyone finds himself with considerable debts in his early twenties. Some have cars, others merely hangovers. Probably an evil plot to stop the brain drain. As the money is more often than not spent on alcohol, brains are duly drained; Hardly anyone was in town during the weekend, save for a mother celebrating the first they just never leave the country. I still anniversary of conception, and a lonely UFO on a day trip from Snæfellsnes. had no children, at least none that I Photo: Aldís knew of, and given my social life, or lack of it, not much likelihood of there it was only a matter of time. Hood, if he were alive today would being any gone unreported. And yet, it Monday is frídagur verslunarmanna, probably never get around to giving the was Monday morning after the biggest the trader’s holiday. These days, it is money to the poor. He´d have formed drinking weekend of the year, and I did everyone´s day off, except for those a company instead. Or a band. In the not have so much as a headache. This engaged in trade and those selling wine event, Árni didn´t get to go, but he´s almost sent me running to the nearest and drink make a killing. It is also, as small fish anyway these days as almost bar to drink myself into a stupor to prove you no doubt know, the biggest drinking every day brings new stories in the my continued virility. I was almost on my holiday of the year. In the other Nordic papers of corporate scandals such as way when I discovered that the thought countries, the 1st of May, the workers tax fraud, insider trading and illegal price of this did not appeal to me at all. I’d holiday serves this purpose. Go figure. collusion. If you didn´t know better, you rather read a good book or something. One of the big questions this might start to think the economy is being This realisation sent me dashing to the weekend was whether Árni Johnsen run by a bunch of crooks. At least the mirror to look for grey hair. None yet, but would be allowed to perform at the media, particularly Fréttablaðið, seem to festival. His day job was as an MP, be doing their job as the 4th estate. Even but he was put in prison after it turned the Economist is going after Berlusconi, out public funds had disappeared and since the law has become powerless. reappearing as upgrades for his house. And apparently the ozone layer is doing He has been leading the group singalong good these days. It seems everything for the past 25 years, and for a while might turn out alright. Or perhaps that´s he seemed in grave danger of becoming just the good weather we´ve been having a national hero. Our leaders become causing delusion. villains when caught for stealing from Summer is slowly winding down. The us, and then become heroes again for nights are getting darker, a phenomena being punished. Martyrs of the people. that always seems to surprise Icelander If they’d put Nixon in prison, he would as much every year. There is but one probably have become the icon of a issue of Grapevine to go, before the generation, at least if he could play the tourists and the birds quite sensibly guitar. Jeffrey Archer will probably sell leave before the darkness and the cold more books than ever. It reminded me sets in. But there is still one more month of the Rolling Stones, who became tax to go, with Gay Pride and Culture Night exiles in ´72, thus adding to their outlaw to keep spirits up during the final month mystique. The rich, having been made of summer. There is certain desperation rich by the people, become heroes by to the festivities; as if we party hard refusing to give anything back. No small enough we can somehow prevent winter feat stealing from people and getting from setting in. What the hell, it’s worth a them to cheer you in the process. Robin try.

TOURIST OF THE DAY How do you like Iceland? Have you tried any Icelandic It’s lovely. I’m starting to like delicacies? it more and more. Weather Once I ate shark, and it was terrible, the may be considered as a smell was really disgusting. big factor here… It’s sunny Whaling: right or wrong? and a rainy day might have Why not eat them, everything else is given a different answer. harvested in the sea! Where are you from? Should North America be returned to I’m from Kópavogur. its rightful owners, the Icelanders? What in the name of Thor Of course my horse. are you doing here? Do you know who David Oddson is? I work here, I run a café in A nerd with curly hair. down town Reykjavík. Do you know who Bubbi Morthens Have you been here is? long? A Rock and Roll singer with no hair. Name: About 20 years with a few Do you know who Keiko is? Ingunn Mýrdal detours. A fat waste of money! (A whale) 6 - the reykjavík grapevine - august 8th - august 21st, 2003

ANALYSIS

WRETCHED REFUSE YEARNING TO BREATHE FREE free" are welcomed much more easily in article BY the States today, provided that they're not Muslim. And how about Iceland, then? Surely in such a comparatively more progressive country attitudes are FONTAINE-NIKOLOV PAUL So you want to be an Icelander. You are undeterred proportionately more advanced, no? by the fact that the weather is miserable for 364 days Welllll, it depends on who you talk to. Icelanders are generally welcoming a year, and that for the price of a pint you can set up a of foreigners. Many's the time I went to small business in some parts of the world. So what´s a bar alone and had someone approach stopping you? For one thing, the law. me asking, "Where are you from?", thereby starting a long conversation of So here´s: many questions. Even though I'm from Expiration Dates, Nationalist Rags, and Other Fine a country as unremarkable as the U.S, after four years people are still asking Aspects of Being an Immigrant in Iceland me questions about what it's like there. The curiosity never ends, and though it takes time to make long-lasting I left the United States for good, which I learned the hard way. Hopefully, friends with an Icelander, they generally and I mean really and for true, in 1999, this piece will help provide a broader and welcome foreigners. To an extent. and have vowed never to return, ever. clearer picture of immigration in general, When I first came to Iceland I worked She was not quite as cheerful after she found out what her job was. Aside from general embarrassment and and in Iceland particularly. in a restaurant which shall remain Photo: Aldís disgust with what passes for culture, a I have always found nationalism a bit nameless. I very quickly found that I had military dictatorship pretending to be a silly, and anti-immigration sentiments to work three times as hard to prove like to live in Kopasker?" Themselves alone. They will never get democracy for a government, and the downright absurd. Especially in the a third as much, that if anything went The fun doesn't end there either. In jobs higher than dishwasher or fish- seeming ubiquitousness of "reality" TV States. "Look at these damn foreigners," wrong I was always the first person to 2000 there were a couple of Chinese gutter, they won't vote, and their income shows, my greatest reason for leaving I've heard way too many Americans be asked why it happened, and that my arrested in Keflavik airport for carrying is still taxed the same as everyone was that with every war, conflict, or complain to me as we see a family of boss kept me in the dark about many of false passports. The very next day the else’s. What more could a government battle that the U.S. visited upon some foreigners walking around somewhere, my legal entitlements. Other immigrants police came to the guesthouse where I want? If anything, you'd think the Ministry nation or another in the world, I knew "They come to this country and don't have told me similar stories. The fact is, was living, which was full of immigrants. of Immigration would try to prevent them that my tax dollars were paying for even speak the language. They steal there are incredulous people everywhere They went door to door writing down from learning the language! a part of it. Sooner than I thought, it our jobs, breed like rabbits, and live in the world, and you have to be careful. passport numbers. When they came to All these little things don't make for became more than I could bear, and forty to a one-bedroom apartment." Look out for the tell-tale chain smoking, my door I asked them why they needed much, in the long run. An immigrant who my Icelandic friends helped me process This type of sentiment always gives the unreturned phone calls, and the my passport number. They sort of finds a good boss and tries to learn the my immigration papers. Hello sweet me pause from an American. Especially weak explanations as to why you can't looked at each other, said nothing, and language will probably do well for himsefl freedom! Uh, right? from an American. I mean, aren't we get paid "this month". These guys are the left. It was kind of surreal, actually. The in Iceland. He will certainly do better Well, let me say first of all that I am all "damn foreigners"? Don't the real exception. So how about the everyday Chinese people living in the guesthouse here than in the States. Which makes it happy to be living in Iceland. This is Americans live on reservations today? people? surrendered their passport numbers all the more deplorable what Fréttablaðið where I want to stay, raise my family, and So I'd ask these people, "Where are your I once conducted an informal survey right away, however; in China you don't (whose hilarious motto is "we report the become too old to bathe myself. My life grandparents from?" Almost immediately among the Icelanders I know. Some question the police about anything, news") is doing. is much simpler and more relaxed since the flag-waving ceases. Americans, with were co-workers, others were friends. and I think these Icelandic cops knew Maybe it's because nothing very moving here, and my social conscience the exception of the reservation-dwelling I asked them one question: "Do you this. They probably also knew that we exciting happens in Iceland, or maybe weighs a little bit less. But no place is Natives, are all descended from people think there are too many foreigners in Americans will explode in a fit of rage it's because the editor of this rag has paradise, of course, and there are things who at one time came to this country Iceland?" The response was always the and assault police officers, of course; something against immigrants himself, without knowing the same: "No, but . . .", followed by some haven't you ever seen World's Wildest but Fréttablaðið has consistently language, found jobs, rather imaginative suggestion regarding Police Videos? released a string of articles which have worked hard, and with what they would do with the huddled When I hear Icelanders expressing a decidedly anti-foreigner slant. Worse a little perseverance, masses. My favourite so far is, "They fear of an immigration flood they always still, these articles are always built on became the butt of shouldn't be allowed to live together bring up Denmark, as though Denmark reporting half of the truth. I cite my ethnic jokes which are and start their own neighbourhoods." I was the greatest immigration failure examples: still told to this day. laughed out loud at this, really. I mean, on the face of the earth. In particular, Earlier this year, they ran a banner But certainly first of all, what is the harm in having they talk about how those notorious headline which read "The Majority of times have changed a Chinatown? Secondly, how would one "neighborhoods" have formed, and Icelanders Think There Are Too Many since the poem which enforce such a law? they describe with indignation how the Foreigners". Buried deep within the is now engraved on Immigration Official: "Country of immigrants refuse to learn the language! article, however, was the fact that they the pedestal of the origin?" OK, have you ever heard Danish? Even only called 600 people. Statue of Liberty was Immigrant: "Thailand." some of you Danes reading this know first penned, right? Immigration Official: "Hmm, let me what I'm talking about. Seriously though, Poles have a reputation for being hard workers and hard The "huddled masses see. Well, we already have five Thais drinkers. Apparently, they fit in just fine. do you know who they're hurting, these ...Continued on page 30 yearning to breathe living in the 101 postal code. How'd you people who refuse to learn the language?

NEWS IN BRIEF The Verslunarmannahelgi celebrations resumed later this month, and that 38 The Association of Icelandic Insurance A bus carrying 28 Czech tourists went off prison to be somewhat cold, and have went reasonably well. Weather was whales are to be hunted. About 43.000 Companies stand accused of conniving the road and toppled at Geldingadragi. demanded that the Minister of Justice good in most parts of the country, no minke whales are estimated to be in the to hinder competition from entering the 12 were hospitalised, but 9 of these intervene. Prisoners have sent out one died in car accidents and only two waters surrounding Iceland. Prosters market for fishing ship insurance. When have already been released from the a statement supporting the notion, rapes were reported, considerably less have gathered outside the Icelandic the company Alþjóðleg miðlun started hospital. especially after one guard, who reported than in previous years. Between 8 and embassy in London, wearing whale offering insurance, they asked other himself sick when visiting his wife who 9 thousand attended the festival in the suits despite very warm weather. The companies for information regarding Prime Minister Davíð Oddsson has said in lay in mortal danger after an accident, Westmans. There were several drugs opposition parties have welcomed the damage claims of potential clients. an interview with the Washington Times was asked to return wages paid during charges and one rape reported, which news, as have representatives of the The Association then sent a letter to all that Icelanders view their country as a his sick leave. organisers say stain the festival, which fishing industry, while representatives members saying they were unauthorised connecting point between the USA and was otherwise a success. of the tourist industry have protested to give out such information. Authorities Europe, but might have to reevalute their the decision. The US State Department claim this is a clear violation of anti-trust position if the US fighters are withdrawn. has warned that the decision might lead laws. He says that if the US Army withdraws, to sanctions, but the Minster of fisheries Iceland might be forced to seek closer says he´s not worried, and that the The World Competiton of Icelandic cooperation with Europe. hunting is perfectly legal. horses was held in Denmark, and Iceland managed to win five medals. The Police were contacted by an irate Jón Ólafsson, owner of Skífan, is Swedes equalled this with five medals of individual who complained about loud accused by tax authorities of neglecting their own, but we´ll no doubt beat them music originating from his neighbours to mention 22 million krónur paid in in a meatball competition one day. house. The person claimed the same wages by the company to himself. The song had been played consecutively for More people were at the alcohol free wages were paid for consultation, and 24 hours. Police tried to contact the festival at Galtalækur this year than were paid to another company of his, homeowner, but without result. there have been for more than a decade, Inuit Enterprise Ltd., in the Virgin Islands. in all somewhere between 7 and 8 Skífan chairman Ragnar Birgisson has The World championship in strange boats thousand. Around 12 thousand went admitted hiding 11,6 million krónur was held at Flúðir. The most interesting to Akureyri, where there were several in wages from tax authorities. The vessel was named Flúðaþvottur, instances of drunk driving. Less than a company also stands accused of captained by sisters María and Guðbjörg thousand attended the country festival at counting as operational expenses 12 Hjaltadóttir. The craft was apparently According to a census, Icelandic males Skagaströnd, which is much less than in million krónur paid in fines due for Three Americans have just completed a doing well until a husband showed up, live longest of all men in Western Europe, previous years. infringement of anti-trust laws and kajak journey around Iceland and came resulting in the vessel being overturned. whereas among women it’s the French. hindering investigations. ashore in Neskaupstaður after an 81 day Perhaps a dating service should be The government has announced that trip. One of these, Shawna Franklin, is Prison guards have felt their relationship started? whaling for scientific purposes is to be the first woman to kajak around Iceland. with the management of Litla-Hraun 6 - the reykjavík grapevine - august 8th - august 21st, 2003 8 - the reykjavík grapevine - august 8th - august 21st, 2003

HISTORY

ICELAND AND THE OUTSIDE WORLD: A BRIEF FLING OR A SERIOUS RELATIONSHIP? Airline company), and its undertakings article BY continued to grow. Meanwhile in 1944 3 young Icelandic pilots studying in Iceland is far away from pretty much everything. This FONTAINE-NIKOLOV PAUL Canada bought their own airplane and geographical fact has always been a deciding factor brought it home, hoping to get a job in life here. Apart from the Turks in the 17th century with the airline. When this turned them and the British in the 20th, it has kept Iceland free down, they formed their own company, Loftleiðir, and this also met with of invading armies. It has also often made life very success. Both airlines were domestic, difficult here, due to lack of imports. Iceland was, of but in 1945 Flugfélag Íslands decided to course, first settled by shipowners and Iceland had at move into international flights as well. In order to do this, it needed more capital, least a hundred ships in its first century, but, due to and this was raised by asking Eimskip lack of wood, it was difficult to replenish the fleet and to buy its way into the company, with about a quarter of the shares. Eimskip by the 13th century foreign trade was completely in agreed on condition its president come the hands of Norwegians. from Eimskip. Thus started a long association between the main shipping When Icelanders agreed to pay taxes set stipulating that those who did not company and the main airline company, to the king of Norway in 1262, one of own their own livestock had to become and the first international flights were the conditions was that the King continue tenants for someone who did. Hence, flown to Scotland and Denmark. A year to send ships here. Iceland´s lifeline to the poorer labourers were from then later both companies started chartering the outside world may have seemed on forced to work for the wealthier flights to the USA, and considerable An Octopus. Several arms, one mouth, and a bitch to fnd yourself in a boardroom with. considerably more important than landowners who now owned their labour, competition reigned between them on independence at the time. and this precluded people from making both domestic and international routes. After the start of the Norwegian a living out of fishing. What fishing there This was put to an end in 1952 when period, fish became, for the first time, was was only done during time off from the minister of communications, Björn In 1973, Flugleiðir and Loftleiðir merged the previously mentioned merger. Some the most important export. Markets farmhand duties, and the catch belonged Ólafsson, divided up the domestic routes to form Flugleiðir, or Icelandair as it is people wondered whether Eimskip´s opened up in the Baltic as the area to the landowner. The new laws were between the two, with the most profitable known abroad. The merger was painful considerable proceeds should not be became Christian (Catholics, of course, probably set to prevent competition for ones going to Flugfélag Íslands. for many within both companies, and it spent on lowering prices on traffic were not allowed to eat meat on Fridays labour from the foreigners who were Loftleiðir decided they could no longer took six years before the companies rather than overtaking other companies, and hence fish became a popular now granted entry into the country, continue under such circumstances, and finally adopted the new name and as this would inevitably lead to more substitute) and the Norwegian port and for the same reason their stay was so the Minister gave those routes meant standardised uniforms. Icelandair purchasing power among the general of Bergen became incorporated into legally limited to summertime only. This for Loftleiðir to Flugfélag Íslands as well. continued to offer cheap flights between public. It seemed that about 15 families the Hanseatic trading system. This, system prevailed to a large extent in The latter´s profits swelled, whereas North America and Europe, but, controlled virtually all traffic to and from however, did not lead to an increase Iceland into the 19th century. the former laid off its employees. ironically, it was very expensive to fly the country. These were nicknamed in living standards. Quite the contrary, By then more and more ships started Debate raged within the company as from Iceland, as the company held a de “The Octopus,” as its many arms the climate became harsher and crops coming from abroad, and the number of to what to do next. Eventually it was facto monopoly. Flights from Iceland to seemed to be feeding the same mouth. traders grew. The main import decided to continue flights to the USA, the USA, for instance, were much more Its other two main pillars were the Shell was sugar, followed by hard but at lower prices than those offered expensive than the other way around. oil company and the Sjóvá-Almennar liquor and coffee beans. The by other airlines. Most other airlines Hence the company benefitted travellers insurance company. Its main rival was main export was wool. Trade were members of the union IATA, who between the continents, whereas another conglamerate, Sambandið, with outsiders was finally given had synchronised their prices to avoid Icelanders had to pay high airfares to often called the “Small Octopus” or “the free in 1855. Until then, most competition, but as Loftleiðir was not get anywhere. Squid.” Virtually all fishing distilleries traders had been Danish, as a part of this, it could underbid others belonged to one or the other, and an those who were not had to pay on the Europe-America route. This met The Octopus spreads it tentacles understanding was reached regarding heavy duties. Trade continued with success, even though the route Apart from Eimskip, stock companies spheres of influence. By the late 80´s to be in the hands of Danes until was longer. “We are slower, but we are have rarely succeeded here. Part of the the Squid was falling apart, leaving the later in the century, when new lower,” became the company motto. reason may have been that ownership field to the bigger player. markets opened up in Britain and Spain and these were David takes the place of Goliath exploited by locals. New laws The IATA companies disliked the It seemed that 15 families, nicknamed were also set that prevented competition, and some tried to A squid. Not as big as an octopus, and hence tries traders from owning more than not to scavenge on the latters turf. put an end to it by influencing their “The Octopus,” controlled virtually all one store in each town, thus governments, such as Lufthansa, which preventing monopolies. Free managed to get a ban on Loftleiðir´s traffic to and from the country. could no longer be grown at the same trade was one of the main goals of advertising in Germany, and SAS, who time that some families became very Jón Sigurðsson and those struggling twice managed to get a landing ban on wealthy from the fish trade. The rich for Icelandic independence. Living Loftleiðir aircraft in Scandinavia. Always of major corporations was kept secret, became richer and the poor poorer. conditions improved considerably as the Loftleiðir prevailed, redirecting its traffic which tended to make the public distrust The Fall of the Empire? When the bubonic plague devastated 19th century wore on, fishing became to Luxemburg, and economising by them. When in 1990 ownership of These days, the dominant position Norway in the mid-14th century, shipping evermore important, and boats became buying larger aircraft. Eimskip was made public, it turned of the Octopus is under siege. Shell to and from Iceland virtually ceased. It both bigger and more numerous. By the late 60´s, a role reversal out 40% of stock was owned by 15 Iceland is currently under inspection was not until over half a century later had taken place. A small company, individuals who controlled the board. for illegal price collution with the other that this changed when the English Independence won...and lost? Air Bahama, challenged Loftleiðirs The board had been buying up stock oil companies, and is being bought up discovered that there was a lot of fish In 1914, a shipping company, Eimskip, dominance of the low budget Atlantic sold by shareholders without putting by Kaupþing. Other giants have entered in the seas surrounding Iceland, and was formed. Its founders were market by offering cheaper fares, and these on the market, something that the stage, such as Jón Ólafsson of the ships came here in such quantities well aware that Iceland had lost its this was duly gobbled up by Loftleiðir, in most other countries is considered Northern Light Corporation, currently that the period has come to be known independence centuries earlier because now the Goliath to this new David, in insider trading and is illegal. The board under investigation for tax fraud, and as the “English Century.” Iceland was it did not control its own shipping and 1969. But its dominance was soon to had also been buying stock in other father and son run Baugur, who own now, after the Kalmar Union of 1397, were determined not to let history come to an end. In 1970, IATA loosened companies, notably about a third of the Bonus supermarket chain. Another under the suzeranity of the king of repeat itself. The company became its grip considerably, and companies Icelandair shares, and some people sat father and son who´ve been making Denmark and the king tried to stop known as the “dream child of the such as Alitalia were able to offer prices on the board in both companies. It had their presence felt are Björgólfur this interference. His emissary, who nation,” and everyone, rich and poor, up to 25% lower than had previously also gobbled up it biggest competitor, Guðmundsson and Björgólfur Thor was sent to see what could be done bought stocks so that it might prosper, been known. Hafskip, as well as Loftleiðir through Björgólfsson. Björgólfur the elder was to stop Icelanders collusion with the the rich, of course buying somewhat former chairman of Hafskip, and was Englishmen, some of whom traded and more than the poor. At the time, it´s given a 12 month suspended sentence for embezzlement in 1991. Having then “Those who are considered chieftains in made a fortune in the beverage industry in Russia, they are currently buying their this country are foolishly subsceptible way into Eimskip. The Octopus has also been losing its interest in Icelandair, to prayer, drink and bribery as vegetable giant Pálmi Haraldsson, .” also under investigation for illegal price collusion, bought into the company, as others plundered, writes: “Those who owners totalled 13.000 in all, at a time well as a daughter company of Baugur. are considered chieftains in this country when the population had not yet reached A new low cost airline, Iceland are foolishly subsceptible to prayer, 100.000. Five years later, many of the Express, began operations at the drink and bribery, but still the simple same men sat at another meeting and beginning of this year, and brought new and poor common people believe them formed the first Icelandic airline. Its competition into the airline market. Their and are duped.” Such is progress, that fleet consisted of a single Avro-504 destinations as yet only lie to London at least they are not as subsceptible to bought from Britain, but this had to be and Copenhagen, but this time the low prayer any more. sold a year later due to lack of funding. prices are available to Icelanders as Other attempts were made at founding well. With competion in the skies above, No fish, no freedom an airline, but it wasn´t until 1937 that Icelanders might finally get to develop a In 1490 the king of Denmark set a new an airline that prevailed was founded, long term relationship with the outside policy, and from then on Englishmen, this time at Akureyri. A year later it world, rather than just sneaking a peak Dutchmen and Germans were allowed bought its first plane and in 1940 it For some reason, the first passenger airline in Iceland failed to make a profit. at it every now and then. to trade if they were granted the proper moved its headquarters to Reykjavík and permit. At the same time, laws were became Flugfélag Íslands (the Icelandic 8 - the reykjavík grapevine - august 8th - august 21st, 2003

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G A Y P R I D E

THE BIGGEST LITTLE PRIDE IN THE WORLD article BY Photos:Photos: PaldísBára PÉTURSSON HEIMIR MÁR

In the late 70´s, singer Hörður Torfason, then hugely popular, announced that he was gay. The public outcry was such that he was forced to leave the country and moved to Sweden. Today, the gay pride festival is attended by thousands of people, families as well as singles of all inclinations. Progress has been made, which is good reason to celebrate. was no

The Reykjavik Gay Pride festival is Parade, 1.500 people came to see the the third biggest in Reykjavik. It’s outdoor showed up downtown. The year been held since 1999 but the first parade after, when there was a parade for the was in the year 2000 and has from the first time, around twelve thosand people beginning been a huge success. Last attended the parade and the show, year over 30 thousand people came to growing to more than thirty thousand the city center to participate or just to last year. That is about 10% of the take a look at the many colourful people population of the country and a quarter and floats going by at Laugavegur, the of the population of Reykjavik, so this main shopping street. must make it the biggest little Pride in This years Pride takes place 8 – 9 the world. August, starting on a Friday night with On the 9th of August you will see an opening ceremony and premiere people and floats organized beside the As gay as it gets. of Ain’t Misbehavin’, the Fats Waller police station at Hlemmur bus terminal. Musical Show at Loftkastalinn theater. People start to come together at 1 PM Four African-American actors/singers and the parade itself starts at 3 PM. On come from the USA accompanying the sidewalks you will see all kinds of barrier, and maybe they don’t feel they 8th of August and ending Sunday 17th of rights in general, laid the ground for the the Icelandic diva Andrea Gylfa and an people mixed together. There will be have to, because there are so many in August. The band playing with the cast gay rights movement in the seventies. Icelandic band of musicians. This is the gay people, old men and women, young each and every group. But it would be is a collection of Iceland’s best young So the connections are many. It’s all first time this tribute to Fats Waller has people and married couples with babies, a very lonely position to be foreign and jazz players. Agnar Már Magnússon is about Pride. been put on stage in Iceland, though his there will be Asians, South Americans, gay in Iceland and not meeting the local the musical director and plays the piano, The thirties was a time when blues music is as well known to Icelanders as people from different places in Europe gay people. Because of the smallness Valdimar Kolbeinn Sigurjónsson plays was hot and jazz was a growing mainstay to the rest of the western world. There and tourists. the gay community very much welcomes bass, Erik Qvick drums with Jóel Pálsson of American culture; when speakeasies are only 10 shows running from 8 – 17 Even though Reykjavik is one of people from other countries and is proud on saxophone and clarinet. were filled with both blacks and whites of August. the smallest capitals in the world, you to have them represented in the parade. The costumes are from Skaparinn, dancing to the ‘rhythms of life’; when One out of every ten Icelanders goes will find people from all over the world The Asian community has a tradition Reykjavik’s most progressive clothes the “New Negro” was making his mark to Pride here. And when you are gay or lesbian of making a colourful float and beautiful designers, Dúsa and Rósi. They run in politics, art, literature, music and All the Prides in the world try to educate in a small community like Reykjavik, costumes. This year they promise to their own shop at Laugavegur shopping science. The industrial North summoned and generate tolerance among the you are positively forced to mix with have a stunning number in the parade. street, selling their clothes and hat African Americans out of the agrarian general public. But maybe because of people of all colours and cultures. In So do the lesbians. In previous years lines and where they also regularly South and they came, fleeing racism how small Iceland is, high tolerance grew some cities people of different races they have had big dancing numbers, but have music happenings on Saturday and poverty. It seemed as if in cities rather quickly and the people of Reykjavik have seperated Pride festivities. They this year they are planning a three car evenings. Other people supporting the like New York, Chicago, and Detroit, the and Iceland have welcomed Gay Pride. don’t seem to be able to cross the race parade with some surprises. The float of show all have years of At the first Pride in 1999, when there the leather men from the MSC Iceland experience in theater. Club will be extra extravagant because Unnar Geir Unnarsson of the visit of “International Mr. Leather” is the assistant 2003 from London. Then Paul Oscar, director. He works with the Eurovision contestant for Iceland in the Icelandic opera, 1997 has joined forces with Coco, the is studying classical famous drag queen, in a number that will singing and has worked without doubt make people hold their on productions with the breath. Let us hope they will catch it famous gay actor/ again. director/playwright Ain’t Misbehavin’ flying in from Felix Bergsson. America Ívar Ragnarsson, The Reykjavik Pride has always opened a household name with an international number on Friday himself in the music night. In 2001 the American standup business, is the sound comedian, Nina Hartong, opened with designer and Ólafur a hilarious program at the Café Theater Pétur Georgsson the and last year the world famous pop lighting designer. He The national day? No, gay parade. Bigger crowds, better flags group STEREO-TOTAL from Berlin gave designed lights for and it doesn´t always rain. an unforgettable concert in Spotlight Felix Bergsson before This year the objectives are even and now works for the more ambitious. The project is so big, National Theater of Iceland. American Negro could finally find respite a special theater company, Different But why is a Pride company importing from racial prejudice, could finally hold Days Productions, was formed to make an African-American musical to put on a decent job with decent pay, could it happen. Different Days Productions is stage in connection with Pride? What is finally become a property owner, and staging the very funny and famous Fats gay about that? There is everything gay could finally go out dancing on Saturday Waller Musical Show, Ain’t Misbehavin’, about that, though the musical is not, night without fear of having men in white sheets shatter his fun. Harlem became the center of urban black life. If you The float of the leather men from wanted to write, dance, compose music or effect social change, you went to the MSC Iceland Club will be extra Harlem. If you wanted the best chance at changing your circumstances and you extravagant because of the visit of were black, you went to Harlem. Ain’t Misbehavin’ – The Fats Waller International Mr. Leather Musical Show - has delighted American audiences for 25 years and now adds to the best known African-American musical technically speaking, a “gay musical”. the cultural diversity of Reykjavík. This of all time. Still, gay people have been known year is not just the 25th anniversary of The director and three others in the through history to hold a special love for the musical, but also of the Icelandic Gay cast are here from America. Different musicals. Ain’t Misbehavin’ catches the and Lesbian Organization, Samtökin 78. Days Productions held an audition in atmosphere of the period in American Ain´t Misbehavin’ started off Broadway, New York in April, where 42 actors, who history called the Harlem Renaissance, but soon became so popular it was had been selected from 200 applicants, Harlem nightclub life in the 1930’s. It moved to Broadway, where it was shown competed for three roles in the musical. was the time when black Americans 1.604 times. Even in America that is In the end Kenyatta Herring, Moyo Mbue gained new pride and new identity in quite a lot. So don’t miss that special These days, fair maidens get to ride white horses too, and prince charmings sometimes and Chris Anthony Giles were selected to the big cities of US, specially in Harlem opportunity to see this fun filled show wear dresses. star together with the Icelandic rock and in New York City. The story of Harlem of great songs and performers at blues diva Andrea Gylfa and the director Renaissance, the African-American’s Loftkastalinn theater. Remember there Seth Sharp in ten shows, starting Friday struggle for equal rights and human is only a limited number of shows. 10 - the reykjavík grapevine - august 8th - august 21st, 2003 august 8th - august 21st, 2003 - the reykjavík grapevine - 11

FILM

CARREY ALMIGHTY it made. But faking genuine character film being made again, now that would reviewBY growth is not among Carrey’s strengths, be a miracle. and Bruce’s redemption, made possible by his love of Grace, is desirable but not RYAN CAROLINE quite believable. We don’t worry about a Not an art house effort but still good fun, “Bruce man who already has a television career, a beautiful girlfriend and no kids. The Almighty” is the latest in Jim Carrey’s bid to remain film provides plenty of funny moments, Hollywood’s top funny man. Directed by Tom Shadyac, but a man worth saving? Only God would the film suffers from the same uninspired creativity of think so. Maybe if studio films like “Bruce most studio products, but is funny with moments of Almighty” stepped out of the product warmth and genuine interest, thanks to the character placement, cookie cutter mold, out of of God, played with perfect understatement by Morgan the realm of the upper middle income, away from the standard images of the Freeman. miniscule leading lady with the perfectly tousled hair, the light yellow apartment, the cute dog learning new tricks. If they there are millions in America now who let Bruce be a decent guy like Capra’s daily fear homelessness, hunger and George Bailey, who moves into a broken unemployment, whose children have no down house with a young wife, builds a health insurance. But the film ignores centred child-man, troubled but lovable. good life on little money, loses it all one that particular reality. The soul it wishes As the old saying goes, all you need is to day, and then against all odds, gets his to save belongs to a spoiled and self- be genuine, if you can fake that, you got life back. If we were to see that kind of

The allure of the film, nearly lost among Carrey’s many sight gags and facial contortions, is that it is a take on Frank Capra’s much-loved 1946 classic “It’s A Wonderful Life”. We are helped to this connection by a glimpse of a scene from that film, where George Bailey offers to lasso the moon for his girl Mary. Carrey plays Bruce Nolan, a TV news reporter whose ambition is to read hard news from the studio rather than report soft stories from chocolate chip cookie factories. The big promotion seems all lined up, but God must be in a sadistic mood, because Bruce’s arch rival, he of plastic hair and shiny suit, gets the job instead. Bruce hears of this just as he is about to deliver a live report. In a fluent, sarcastic fury, he gets as even as he can, even using the unthinkable “F” word, and is fired. The tirade continues at home with his girlfriend Grace, played by Jennifer Aniston. As with other Hollywood redemption films such as Bill Murray‘s “Groundhog Day” and “Scrooged”, the real tragedy is internal: a loss of faith in life and a lack of compassion for others. Our anti-hero feels that he is fired not for his tirade, but because God is cruel. He rants at God for this, demanding an explanation. Enter God, who is Freeman resplendent in a white suit, radiating an otherworldly calm and an earthly humour. This particular lost soul needs a bit of fine tuning, the Almighty feels, and tells Bruce he may run things himself for a while. God needs some time off, which he’s taken before (“Remember the Dark Ages?”). And if things are so simple, Bruce ought to be able to handle it for a while. But Bruce doesn’t handle it; he misses the point altogether. Instead of using his powers to help others, as God points out in a later meeting, Bruce has only helped himself, teaching his dog to use the toilet, parting red soup in a bowl and creating new clothes and a Saleen S7 to drive. He also takes hilariously mean pot shots at his enemies, moving his career and his ego forward while neglecting and losing his girlfriend. Things spiral ever downward for the prodigal son till God snatches him away again for a clarifying chat. Unsure he will be returned to his life, Bruce realises he may not have a chance to right things. But our original Creator, Frank Capra, wins the day. What slightly sinks “Bruce Almighty” is that it was created from the southern California studio movie vantage point, a cultural and emotional vacuum where citizens are consumers and spiritual growth a thing for trendy books and seminars. Unlike 1940’s America, the film’s intended audience has no memory of the Great Depression. Of course 12 - the reykjavík grapevine - august 8th - august 21st, 2003 august 8th - august 21st, 2003 - the reykjavík grapevine - 13

FOOD

THREE YEARS FOR THE PTARMIGAN Hunting is a popular sport here in my tongue dived into Iceland. Almost every Icelandic man removal action... coiling I know hunts. They are known as itself back in one swift “veiðimenn” (hunting men). My ‘Viking’ move and massaging the fishes, and he too is called a veiðimaður morsel forward. (hunter). Basically, as long as they are It was Christmas Eve out there killing something, they are and we were gathered hunters. My ‘Viking’ has to come back at the large family dining with an ample supply of salmon or trout table. All the family to call the trip a success; we make members’ eyes were on sushi as well as smoked and grave lax me, watching my virgin with the catch. He also returns with an try of RJUPA (whipppee uncanny hangover. Uhmm???! ... yeah hey! One feels Anyway, as I was saying, they hunt like one should say that here. They hunt reindeer, shoot geese, “whooppeee wayhay!” This is what a ptarmigan looks like before the festive ducks and ptarmigan or rjupa as it’s every time the word season begins. called in Iceland. Or at least they used rjupa pops up. It’s always to. Just recently, the Environmental said with such gusto and licking of lips especially for a little ‘rotten’ bird! Ministry ruled that rjupa hunting be that one feels one should wave a flag or So for me, the ban means nothing. banned for the next 3 years as the poor at least blow on a hooter!!) There was a I can, being an animal lover, (yet bird is being depleted from this volcanic general consensus that I was bound to not so dedicated as to shy from my island. The plan of action is to up its LOVE it since they all thought it was the carnivorous ways) be quite happy that numbers to what it was at the beginning best thing since sheep’s testicles!! these pleasant little camouflaged cuties of the 20th Century. The rjupa, is to Quickly I regained control of my reflexes are saved from the big bad hunters. the Icelander what turkey is to an and carefully avoided swallowing the Rjupa facts Englishman at Christmas. It’s a must, slightest amount of saliva contaminated They are called ptarmigan in the it is the beast of the feast! But whereas with the vile foreign substance while rest of the world, which is Gaelic for one turkey would suffice a whole family outwardly I concentrated on smiling. It “mountaineer”, its technical name is with enough leftovers to make you not was difficult as my mouth kept turning Lagopus, Greek for “Hare footed.” want to eat it again for a whole year, down at the corners in total disgust They have feathers on their feet. the rjupa, in all its daintiness, is hardly at the putrid matter in my mouth. In They are a member of the grouse enough for one adult. Three to four panic, I pick up a Christmas paper family. rjupa’s are needed per person. Funny serviette and rid my mouth of the They are quick to change their plumage enough, in the days of old the rjupa was offending piece of rjupa. “It’s rotten!” to match their surroundings considered a poor mans meal whereas I exclaimed, with uncontrollable shivers They live most of their lives on the today a single rjupa can cost up to of my upper torso followed by a lot of ground. Dwelling in the mountains 1000 Icelandic krónur. water drinking. during the day and flying some distance “Watch out for the pellets” I was Good God! The bird is rotten.. to lower altitude during the night. told, when I first tried this delicacy. I hung.. you know “Gamie” as gamie There are three types of ptarmigan. flinched back from my fork immediately. goes. I’ve been told that I have to try 1) The willow ptarmigan which is Cautiously I inspected the now suspect the bird at least three times before I Alaska’s national bird. morsel of meat. I ran my fork through it learn to love its taste. Well har har! It’s 2) The white tailed ptarmigan. a couple of times, making sure no metal precisely at this window of opportunity 3) The rock ptarmigan which is the bits were hiding in my food, before I put that I announce that I am by no means Icelandic breed. the now raggedy piece of meat into underweight and love ample kinds of Funnily enough it’s referred to as my mouth. My mouth instantaneously food and therefore see no reason to Americas most under hunted bird. reacted with a force of its own and force upon myself another craving, Michelle Mitchell

THE REINDEER HUNTERS In mid-July, the sun never sets on never having shot anything in my the hills of Iceland. If you drive high life and not knowing one end of a into the mountains to a certain point, rifle from the other, I am certainly an you can see the magnificent midnight accessory before, during and after sun, a fiery pinkish ball that hangs in the fact. Bang goes my membership suspended animation just above the of the Vegetarian Society when this horizon. gets out. We park our vehicle out of It was on such a night that we set out sight and maintain a deathly silence for the kill. We piled into an old but as reindeer, though possessing only indestructible jalopy and headed for the moderate eyesight, have a very hills in search of prey. acute sense of hearing. Meanwhile To reach significant herds of reindeer one our marksman eases cautiously has to venture deep into the uninhabited down the spiky ridge towards the interior of Iceland. About two thirds of thick undergrowth. He needs to the land surface is home to little more get considerably closer than us if than scrub grass and the hardiest of he is to stand a decent chance of wild life. The terrain in these parts has a bagging a stag. We watch his every strange lunar quality. There is a slightly movement though the field glasses, surreal feeling about speeding across three hundred metres, two-fifty, crater-pocked wilderness in complete two hundred from the herd. To get daylight at one in the morning, sun and closer still, he must slither though moon simultaneously visible at opposite the swampy marsh, then find a ends of the sky. comfortable strategic location from Much of the interior of the island is which to shoot. Hunters often wear this outfit in order to lure rather like a vast desert with gravel, Without warning three bursts of the amused prey into a false sense of security. small stones and rocky outcrops taking gunfire ricochet through the valley the place of fine sand. It requires almost floor. One set of startled antlers two hours of hard motoring to reach a disappears beneath the scrub grass, the horns and hoofs, they are wrapped promising stretch of plain. Our driver, then another. A third staggers pitifully in plastic and loaded on the back. My companion who is busy shooting the Under the maginificent midnight sun, a proceedings on 8 mm film has come along principally to partake of the fresh fiery pinkish ball hanging in suspended liver on offer. He rips a knife along the side of the still quivering organ, stuffing animation, we set out for the kill. the results in his mouth. Um! Tastes just like chicken! a canny Icelandic farmer, conquers draging herself doggedly through the After repeated bowel slashing and aggressive terrain in his old jalopy that undergrowth before expiring in a muddy bagging, it’s time to go home. The meat I could not have managed in a tank. pool of swamp water. will quickly find its way on to plates in Instinctively almost, he knows that there Now we can drive down to the grassy Reykjavik’s most expensive restaurants. is quarry in the vicinity. Out come the plane to survey the bloody damage. After my midnight experience I’d binoculars and, sure enough, we spot The victims lie in contorted positions have more respect for the diners if a roaming herd of reindeer, perhaps bearing vacant wide-eyed stares. The they’d come on out and shoot it for thirty or forty in all, grazing peacefully insides have to be removed and the themselves. in swampy grassland. A tinge of guilt bowels washed out on the spot to begins to nag at me now. Though I prevent rotting, then the carcasses John Boyce will not be pulling the trigger myself, dragged nearer the jeep. After removing 12 - the reykjavík grapevine - august 8th - august 21st, 2003 august 8th - august 21st, 2003 - the reykjavík grapevine - 13

CINEMA LISINGS THE FOLLOWING CINEMA LISTING IS FOR DATE OF PUBLICATION EXPECT SOME CHANGES IN THE NEXT TWO WEEKS

T3: BACK FOR THE LAST TIME? for the sheer hell of it rather than Skynet in action. The plot twist at the the termination of/protection of John end serves its purpose (I’m assuming Connor. It borders on parody, and even everyone’s seen this by now), rather this is admitted in an amusing scene than copping out by having everything when Arnie steals his trademark leather turn out alright. Apparently, the future from a Village People-ish male stripper. is not bright for mankind. Not only is The T-X is a robobabe who can there an army of machines hellbent on take the form of anyone, but still, our destruction, but the only survivors At first, the idea of a third Terminator for whatever reason, chooses to are members of the Minnesota militia, film did not sound too appealing. Arnie constantly revert to the body of a who, of course, were right all along in hasn’t been on top form since, well, blonde Norwegian model (then again, spending their weekends training in T2, and James Cameron is too busy wouldn’t you?), and is suitably icy. One fallout shelters. The worldwide nuclear 3, 5, 7 & 11:10 pm being king of the world and a voyeur of the problems of this sequel is that holocaust is a marvel to look at, echoing over the carcass of the Titanic to direct Judgement Day seemed to have been the surprisingly poetical beginning of these days. Instead we have Jonathan avoided at the end of the second, but, the film. Unlike the Hulk, here the Army Mostow at the helm, whose main credit taking a deterministic view of history, dad is a good guy but the franchise, so far was having Bon Jovi onboard a it was only put off, which is made to which seemed improbably gloomy in WW2 submarine counterfeiting history seem plausible enough. Sarah Connor 1984 only feels too timely now as the and not even making a good film in the dying of leukaemia seems somewhat US seems to be rapidly trading in its process. That the centrepiece of the inappropriate, but once Arnie opens manpower for killing machines, one of film involves a 60 year old man beating up a coffin full of assault weapons, all those already in use being called the up a teenage girl does not seem any is forgotten. Edward Furlong is missed, Predator, which brings to mind another more mouth-watering, at least not to the but it was never John Connor we came Arnie film. rank and file of cinema goers. But this to see anyway. The weakest plot point The stage is set for a multitude is before the film starts. is that highly suspicious people seem of sequels, since the war against The first shot, of a nuke hitting to be able to waltz in and out of what the machines now seems to take ground zero, is one of the more should be the world’s most top secret generations, but this might be Arnie´s impressive in recent memory. Before military instillation at will. Any guard last stand, as he seems to be turning the credits are over, the Terminators who would let a large leather clad his attention to politics. Whether they’ll have arrived, and time is not to be heavily armed Austrian man past without change the constitution so he can 7, 9 & 11 pm 4, 6, 8 & 10 pm wasted. Before you know it, Arnie has asking any questions would not seem to become president is anyone’s guess. already cut off his chest and thrown it be in line for promotion. Another scene, But so far, putting retired actors in when the Terminator discovers his inner charge of Great Powers has not been Sinbad: Legend of the Seven Seas Premiers August 15th out the window. What follows is virtually non-stop OTT action, the highlights humanity, should have been cut. This is a good idea. Nor putting Austrians in Tomb Raider 2 Premiers August 22nd being a chase scene involving a fire Arnie after all, we don’t want him to be charge of them either. In the event, engine and a construction truck, and a showing his feelings. whether or not the future will be as bleak Call for showtimes bathroom fight (far surpassing the same Having the film take place on the as in T3, let’s celebrate this for what it in True Lies) with the T´s seemingly very eve of Judgement Day adds to is; finally, a summer blockbuster worthy Laugarás laugarasbio.is tel: 553 2075 more interested in wanton destruction the excitement, as does finally seeing of the name. VG 14 - the reykjavík grapevine - august 8th - august 21st, 2003 GRAPEVINE’S GUIDE TO REYKJAVÍK CULTURE NIGHT Reykjavík Culture Night will be celebrated for the 8th time on Culture Mania at the Other House. The Other House has certainly The Reykjavik Culture Night at the Intercultural Centre the 16th of August. Around 70.000 people attended the event done its part to liven up the city in the past two months, with events TFA (Time For Action) is organising an expansive program in last year. The program is varied as usual, and participants every weekday. Sadly, they´re on a break in August, but Reykjavík cooperation with Exodus, the Intercultural Centre, and Málning ehf. include poets, painters, rappers and professors from the Culture Night gives us a chance to survey all that´s been going on 14:00 Graffiti artists start working on a 75 square metre wall at University, to name but a few. On this page you can read about there, as everyone will be taking time off from their time off this one the back of the Intercultural Centre. Hiphop music starts to be heard. some of the events, and on the next one you will find complete day. See the next page for further information. The Other House, 20:00 The DJs show up to get the crowd going listings. All events are free unless otherwise stated. All events 20:30 Rappers perform a selection of muzikal works Open University-Science Marathon. Strange items from the cellars in Icelandic unless otherwise stated. For addresses, see the 21:00 DJs do some serious scratching of the University, such as old lotto machines and organs from “jar Venue Finder. 21:15 Break dancers strut their stuff on the floor city.” Scientists perform tricks with lasers, helium and nitrium, among 21:30 The rappers beat box – Open mike 13:15. Historical walk. A walk of Aðalstræti (“Main Street”) and Grjótaþorp (“Rock village”), the old town, in the company of the city 18:00 Flamenco show at the Intercultural Centre café – Minerva curator. Starts by the square at Ingólfsnaust at the corner of Aðalstræti and Vesturgata. Iglesias from Andalucía dances. 14:00. Garden Walk. The most beautiful gardens of Reykjavík will be looked at. Starts by the square at Ingólfsnaust at the corner 22:30 Argentinian Tango and Milonga – Bryndís Halldórsdóttir of Aðalstræti and Vesturgata. and Hany Hedaya perform. After the show, the Milonga starts where 15:00. Pagan Walk. A walk around Skólavörðuholt, where all the streets are named after pagan gods. Just as with the many cats everybody is welcome to participate in the Tango dancing. inhabiting the area, where we wind up is uncertain. Starts by the Leif Ericsson statue outside Hallgrímskirkja. The Intercultural Center, Hverfisgata. 15:00. A walk around the old West End. Starts by the square at Ingólfsnaust at the corner of Aðalstræti and Vesturgata. 16:00. Literary walk. A literature scholar takes us around the centre. Starts by the square at Ingólfsnaust at the corner of In Traditional Style at Landsbankinn bank Aðalstræti and Vesturgata. 17.00 A renowned art expert shows us works and explains their All walks take about an hour. meaning and origin. Round two starts half an hour later. 18.00 Football players of both genders show their skills on stage. Picture, 13:00. The bordering town of Seltjarnarnes invades the other things. Secrets of chemistry and physics exposed. Guests can 19.00 Benedikt the gnome and Dídí entertain the youngest Reykjavík Culture Night for the first time with this piece connecting also attempt to solve puzzles and get to understand illusions from children with a performance. the City Marathon with the Reykjavík Culture Night. The first part psychology. At 16, 18 and 20 there will also be stand-up science by 19:45 The Iceland Dance Company performs. of the piece takes place in the garden of artist Borghildur Anna in the Science Web and the University of Iceland. Scientists attempt 20:00 The Men’s Choir of Reykjavík sings under the direction of Seltjarnarnes where spectators can watch lovely Icelandic landscape to answer any questions posed by the audience for 45 minutes. Friðrik S. Kristinsson. through a frame and then view marathon runners running right through Examples of topics on the science web: “What is insider trading,” “why 21:00 Scenes from the popular play Sellofón by actress Björk it. The second part of the piece takes place in the window of the shop are blondes considered stupid,” “and why are planes not made from Jakobsdóttir. Bitte Kai Rand at Skólavörðustígur, and starts at 20.00. Bollagarðar the same material as the Black Box?” 22:00 Guitar Islandico. The Guitar Islancio trio is made up of 115 in the garden. Top Shop house, Lækjargata. guitarist Björn Thoroddsen, guitarist Gunnar Þórðarson and bass player Jón Rafnsson. Formed in the autumn of 1998, the trio has Chewing Gum Painting, 14:00. The bits played numerous concerts, both in Iceland and abroad. They have of chewing gum stuck on the pavement will Window exhibition of paintings and lithographs by Jóhanna Bogadóttir. released four albums, all of them containing jazzed up Icelandic folk be painted in various colours. Outside the Fasteignasala Híbýli, Suðurgata 7. songs which have received rave reviews and become best-sellers. Laugavegur Chemist. Where? By G. Erla. Paintings embroidered with copper and placed on the The trio has played all over the world, including Scandinavia, North Andy Warhol at Gallery Fold, 14:00. 12 pavement. Can be touched. Templarasund by the Parliament Garden. America, Germany, Spain and Great Britain. paintings of famous athletes from the years Designated Roles. By G. Erla. Dedicated to women who have to change 22.30 Einar Jónes performs traditional tunes on a trumpet on 1977-8, as well as one single piece, in the language zones. Consists of rags with embroidered words. The words are like the balcony. hall in the back. In the Red Room there is an dots that can be connected together to form a picture, the outcome dependant Landsbankinn is the main sponsor of Reykjavík Culture Night exhibition of glass works by Jónas Bragi. A upon each spectators state of mind. Landsbankinn Austurstræti. drawing competition for children, wherein the Clay sculptor Margrét Jónsdóttir shows cups in the optician store Sjáðu. Alan best picture of a bus will be rewarded goes on Bekaert presents Theo frames. Open until 22. Sjáðu optician. Laugavegur 32. until 23:00. There is also a free lottery every Nylon and strawberries has a window exhibition of hats designed by Dóra Emils. 30 minutes, wherein the prizes are works of Grettisgata 7. art. The opera singer Guðbjörn Gunnarsson will Meistari Jakob Gallery. Run by 11 artists. Graphics, clay, weaving, painting, perform at 15.40. Gallery Fold. water colours and sculpture all on exhibition. Open 11-21. Skólavörðustígur 5. Litli Prinsinn (the Little Prince) by Hulda Vilhjálmsdóttir. Japis, Laugavegur 13. VARIOUS OTHER EVENTS: Crayola Man will be out and about in Open house. Handcrafts among other things. Heimilisiðnaðarskólinn, Artists at work at Gallery Fold. 15-23. Austurstræti, handing out pictures and crayons. Laufásvegur 2. Orientation game by Sælkerabúðin and Gallery Meistari Jakob. Aspiring artists invited to chalk outside the Quo Vadis. Works by Soffía Árnadóttir in the shop Kristin Cardew at 14-20. Clues to be found all over Skólavörðuholt hill. Right answers shop. Penninn Eymundsson, Austurstræti 18. Skólavörðustígur. announced at 21. Two prices to be given, a work of art and a food The Puppet Mobile, 15:00. The PM is now in Mandalas. The artist Vignir Jónsson promised to draw one mandala for every day basket. Answers will be announced at Meistari Jakob, Skólavörðustíg 5. its 23rd year, and tours the playgrounds every of the year. He will be in place and explain the work. Laugavegur 82. Story hour for children. 15-17. City Library, Grófarhús. summer. It has never missed a show, regardless Artist Pétur Gautur opens his workshop and invites people in for a visit. Light Little Christmas shop. Adventureland outside as well as in. Coffee of weather. This summer it has some new refreshments and sweet jazz. 19-22. Njálsgata 86. and biscuits. Music in the garden. 17-20. Grundarstígur 7. characters as well as the beloved old ones such Áfram veginn graphic design shop. 5 year anniversary exhibition. 15-22. Coffee event. Coffee waiters show their skills and make different as Junior and the Wolf. The show takes about Laugavegur 1b, through the alley. coffee themed drinks. Music from “coffee countries” played. Free 30 minutes, is aimed at the youngest audience, Work shop exhibition. Ólafur Kjaran and Unnur Knudsen. 14-22. Sólvallagata 1 samples. Kaffitár, Bankastræti 8. and every kid will be presented with a program TM “Saffetyy”. Exhibition by Ilma Stefánsdóttir on safety gear. Aðalstræti 6-8. Wedding gowns and evening dresses are among the clothes at the end of the show. Fríkirkjuvegur 11. Combined Exhibition in a box. Photography, audio and visual exhibition. By exhibited at the tailors’ shops. 14-22. Organza og snúðar, Laugavegur Friðrik and Björgvin. Parking lot in front of Mál og Menning bookstore. 71 and Hnappur, Njálsgata 11. The Beringer Blass Waiter Run, 15:00. 2 m2 of Iceland. Photo exhibition. Gallerí Álfur. Secret Theatre. 20:00. The journey begins at Laugavegur 42 and The Run is open to all waiters and restaurant Dragons and Runes. Photo exhibition by Claire Xuan. Reykjavík Museum of traverses the city, the final stopping point beingIngólfstorg at 23. employees. Starts at Café Victor, where photography. 15-18. Agadir. Introduction to Morocco. Books, food, culture and society. participants will be given a numbered T-shirt, Andy Warhol exhibition. Gallery Fold. 13-22. Laugavegur 55. hat, tray, two glasses, an opener and a bottle. 100-mini video clips. Exhibition by the young people of the work school. Reykjavík Art The Prophet. Can be recognised by his hat and beard. Widely The Run itself starts at 15:30, when bottles are Museum-Hafnarhús. Until 18:00. travelled, remarkable insight and has chosen to conclude his journey opened, glasses filled and waiters run off. The Nordic Architecture as Resource, Examples from all the Nordic countries. here. Will make predictions for passers-by. Outside Salka book route runs from Viktor over to Ingólfs Square, Skólavörðustígur 14. Until 22. publishers between 20 and 23, Skólavörðustígur 4. then a lap and a half around Austurvöllur, before Painting and Running. The house painted inside out, Cesco Soggiu and Karl Youth Group Free Thought has an open house. Artist’s workshop concluding at Vínbarinn. Prizes will be awarded Kristján Davíðsson. Gallery Sævar Karl. by the harbour. Instruments welcome. Jam session begins at 20. for the top 3 places, and all participants A Day in Reykjavík. Slides photo show in the window, Kaupþing Búnaðarbanki, Faxaskáli, Reykjavík harbour. will receive a certificate. Those who want to Austurstræti 5, Until 23:00. Junior Chamber has an open house. Exhibition The Office as Seen participate can sign up at Café Victor. From the Air, inspired by the current exhibition as Austurvöllur, The Living Room Concert, 17, 19 and 21. Anna Pálína and Aðalsteinn Siglufjörður at City Hall. The town of Siglufjörður, formerly the site Earth From Above. At 20 there’s a debate, and at 21.30 there’s a Ásberg have attracted attention during past Reykjavík Culture nights of the herring gold rush, is this years special guest and take sover City Pictionary competition. Hellusund 3. with their original living room concerts, which were first held in their Hall for the day. An exhibition of items from the Herring Museum, an Smith works with open fire in front of Gallery Hnoss, 20-23. living room at Laufásvegur, and later in the Music Tower by the pond. introduction from the Folk Song Home of Bjarni Þorsteinsson, photos Skólavörðustígur 3. This time they´ll be at the Culture House at Hverfisgata, with a family and accordian music. The City Hall. Handverk og hönnun. Crafts and design. A show by 26 individuals, friendly program of folk and poetry. both traditional and modern design, using various materials. There is Nordic Super Trio Jazz Concert, 15:00-15:45. The musicians The Baháí Dancing Group, 17:00. A group of young people from all a lotto with handcrafted silverware as the prize. 13-16. Handverk og involved are three, all from a different Nordic country, all with over the world who dance as a means of expression in order to make hönnun, Aðalstræti 12. impressive CV´s. The Danish Sax player Benjamin Koppel is here along the world think about such social problems as bigotry, poverty, drug Meat and Red. Hereford steakhouse introduces Icelandic beef and with Swedish bass player Tommy Anderson to play with Icelandic addiction and the like. The dances mostly speak for themselves, but offers grilled meat. 15-19. Hereford, Laugavegur 53B. keyboardist Eyþór Gunnarsson. Eyþór is a member of the band there are explanations in between sessions. Ingólfstorg square. Mezzoforte who had quite a few UK hits in the eighties and are still big in Japan, apparently. He still tours with them but is also one of the Night of the Long Poems, 20:00-23:40. The girls who´ve spent most the most respected session musicians in Iceland. Sponsored by summer spreading poetry around the city have now christened Sjóvá Almennar. themselves Aginia and cap off the summer with a whole evenings Icelandic Art Museum, Fríkirkjuvegur. worth, some 15 poets in all, ranging from established artits to aspiring poets. Musical interludes and other acts in between readings, including Starts at 21:00. State run Radiostation Rás 2 is celebrating its Aviation Festival, 15:00-20:00. The 100th anniversary of the first some supposed entertainment from your humble editor. 20th anniversary with these concerts. Starting the show is the band flight, the 30th anniversary of Icelandair and the 60th anniversary Nasa by Austurvöllur. Quarashi, an Icelandic hip hop band founded in 1996 and had the of the DC3 workhorse currently used by the planting foundation for honor of being the opening act for both the Fugees and Prodigy when airborne manuring. The festival consists of three parts. Indoors there Harry Potter Session, 17:15. Legendary Ham vocalist and they played here. Quarashi has been touring the world and making is a visual exhibition about the magic of flying, and with the help of bookstore clerk Óttarr Proppé leads the debate on the whiz kid world wide hit singles and videos but is now at home to play for their computers you get to look over Iceland as if airborne, as well as along with fans of all ages. There will be a reading from the Icelandic fellow Icelanders. learn about the history of aviation with the aid of photographs and translation of the new book. Reykjavík City Library, Tryggvagata. Following them is beloved pop band Sálin hans Jóns míns, and videos. Inside the hangar you can see a number of different airplanes The band Doctuz, 19:00. The band Doctuz, brightest new hope though they did once in the late 80’s change their name into “The great and small, and there is a flying show with aeroplanes, gliders, at this years Músiktilraunir battle of the bands, perform. City Library, Beaten Bishops” and alter their lyrics by singing them in English, parachutists and more. Reykjavík Airport. Grófarhús, Tryggvagata. they now only sing in Icelandic. The translations showed the difficulty Pentagon, 16:00. Is a play comprised of five parts, four of them of transporting poetry between the cultural divide, for example the Rokk in Reykjavík, 18:00. The legendary film documenting the Icelandic and one Australian. All the parts deal with opposition to song “Hvar er draumurinn” became “Where is My Destiny,” hence punk scene in the early 80´s, with bands such as Purkur Pillnik, Þeyr, authority in some way as we get a glimpse into the lives of different presupposing that destiny and dreams are the same thing, whereas Tappi Tíkarass (featuring Björk) and Ego. There is also the Bad Taste people and see events that shed light on their characters, desires, thinkers as diverse as John Calvin, Jean-Paul Sartre and Darth Vader exhibition and the Erró exhibition on the second floor. Reykjavík Art hopes and disappointments. The events take place in different might disagree. Museum, Hafnarhús, Tryggvagata. locations, from a basement in Breiðholt to the outer reaches of the The last band to hit the stage will be Stuðmenn, a band that has universe, including a strange stop at an impartial news broadcaster. Magic Program, 15:00-18:00. Tales of magic and ghosts will produced popular music for Icelanders for over thirty years. Age Hope and joy, sorrow and heartbreak, fun and seriousness, and who be told, authors read from children´s books, and magical items, doesn’t seem to put an end to them and they’ve become classic low knows whether the Pentagon might become a circle. Iðnó Theatre, manuscripts and books are on display. Everyone can have their own culture (their own distinction) a long time ago, at least in Iceland. Vonarstræti. magic rune. National Library, Suðurgata. At Reykjavík Harbour. 14 - the reykjavík grapevine - august 8th - august 21st, 2003 � �� �� �� � � �� �� � ������������������������� �� � � � �� �� ��

South River Band. Íslandsbanki, The Accordion Society of Reykjavík Lækjargata. conjures up the atmosphere. Útitaflið (The 13:00 Horse rental for children. Price 17:00 20:00 Outdoor Chessboard.) The Opening of Reykjavík Culture A renowned art expert shows us works Tango. Members of the Tango Association 300kr, Ari i Ögri, Until 19:00. Rap band Nameless. Penninn night. The mayor begins proceedings. and explains their meaning and origin. dance the Argentinean tango. Everyone free Hula hula and limbo competition. Eymundsson bookstore, Austurstræti. Reykjavík’s Womens Choir sings. At the Landsbankinn, Austurstræti. to join in. Útitaflið (The big chessboard). All entrants welcome. Kirsuberjatréð, Living Room Concert. A family friendly corner of Aðalstræti and Vesturgata. National Museum. Currently undergoing Outside mass and gospel music. Vesturgötu. program of folk and poetry. Culture House. Rás 2 Weekend Special from downtown renovations, it gives a taste of coming Ingólfstorg square. Young Book Worms. Popular children’s Rás 2 concert. Quarashi. Reykjavík Reykjavík. Interviews, live music and attractions. Sponsored by Landsvirkjun. Picture. The second part. Bitte Kai Rand, author read. Mál og menning. harbour. more. Ingólfstorg Square. National Museum, Suðurgata. Until 20:00. Skólavörðustígur 8. Magic Program. Magical items, manuscripts Video piece Thank You shown. National Picture. Watch a lovely landscape through Living Room Concert. A family friendly Bad Taste in Patriotic Swing. Poetry, and books are on display. National Library, Gallery of Iceland, Fríkirkjuvegur. a frame and runners running right through program of folk and poetry. Culture House. music. Reykjavík Art Museum, Hafnarhús, Suðurgata. Until 18:00. Kristín Sigurðardóttir soprano singer it. Bollagarðar 115. Harry Potter Session. City Library, Tryggvagata. Until 23:00. Music on the corner. Kentár plays merry sings on the stairs of the JC House. Scoutland. Rides, clowns, music and the Grófarhús, Tryggvagata. Starts at 17:15. Guided tour for the whole family. National blues. Corner of Skólavörðustígur and Men´s Talk. Rappers and poets perform like. Hljómskálagarðurinn. Until 18:00. Fun at Grófin. The Larynx Society sings Gallery of Iceland. Fríkirkjuvegi. Bankastræti. pieces on masculinity. Skífan store. Nea Nah Nea Nah. An old fire engine on outside Ingólfsnaust and the Kaffi Reykjavík Brilliant Blues. Until 22:00. Brilliant The band Santiago plays until 23:00. display. 13-15. Ingólfstorg (Square). porch. jewellery store, Laugavegur 49. Amadeuz Barber Shop. Laugavegur 62. Amusement Rides. You have to pay The Baháí Dancing Group performes. The Hallgrímskirkja Motet Choir sings. The chamber quire Schola cantorum. to get on some of these (ca. 200kr.) 15:30 Ingólfstorg square. Hallgrímskirkja church. Hallgrímskirkja church. Trampoline and Bouncy Castle. Lækjartorg. Icelandic history in 40 minutes. Konstantin Chtcherbak plays the Bank mascot George sings. Íslandsbanki, Southern Breeze. Porch band. Ari í Ögri, Until 18. Speeches from settlement to the present. balalaika and other unusual instruments. Lækjargata. Ingólfsstræti. Unnur the Elf Girl and Tobbi the troll Kjaftaklöpp at Skólavörðustígur, outside Gallery Álfur. Bankastræti 5. Fimmta herdeildin (The 5th Division) plays Guitar Islandico play Icelandic songs. clown sing and play. Tryggingarmiðstöð, Heilsuhúsið. Starts at 17:30 Night of the Long Poems Reborn. A music. Outside Deli, corner of Bankastræti Landsbankinn, Austurstræti. Aðalstræti 6-8. Until 16:30. great repertoire of poetry and music. NASA and Skólavörðustígur. Accordian ball, Kolaportið Flea Market. Historical walk. Starts by Ingólfsnaust at by Austurvöllur. Guðbjörn Gunnarsson opera singer Mass singalong, Accordian and singing the corner of Aðalstræti and Vesturgata. Kurtz und Gut. A 15 minute course in performs. Gallery Fold. Starts at 15:40. 18:00 group. Kirsuberjatréð, Vesturgötu. Starts 13:15. German language and culture. Goethe Flamenco as performed by Minerva Passion. Young clothes designers. National Zentrum, Laugavegur 18. Starts every 30 Iglesias. Intercultural house. Gallery of Iceland, Fríkirkjuvegur. minutes. 16:00 Rock in Reykjavík. The legendary film Icelandic Jazz. Some well known 13:30 The Men’s Choir of Reykjavík sings. Science Marathon. Scientists attempt documenting the punk scene in the early musicians play popular local songs. Summer Event of the radio station Bylgjan. Landsbankinn, Austurstræti. to answer any questions posed by the 80´s shown. Reykjavík Art Museum, Tryggingarmiðstöð, Aðalstræti 6-8. Locally famous band and children´s TV host Music scene from the play Plómur. audience. The Top Shop house. Hafnarhús, Tryggvagata. Abena duet. Stína Bongo and Addi. Hún og Granpa perform. Lækjartorg (Square). Until Listasmiðjan Nú, Skólavörðustígur. Literary walk. Starts by the square at The Radio station FM957 pop concert, hún jewellery store, Skólavörðustígur 17b. 16:00. Science Marathon. Scientists attempt Ingólfsnaust at the corner of Aðalstræti and Hljómskólagarður. Line dancing. Ingólfstorg (Square). Starts Mooh Now–A Day in the Life of Krístín to answer any questions posed by the Vesturgata. Science Marathon. Scientists attempt at 21:15. Jósefína Páls. A play for children of all audience. The Top Shop house. Fear Factor. The Finals. Pop stars versus to answer any questions posed by the ages. Lab Loki. Iðnó Theatre, Vonarstræti. Kristjana Stefánsdóttir Trio plays at radio presenters. Hljómskálagarðurinn audience. The Top Shop house. artist Pétur Gautur´s workshop. A culture Park. Organ concert. Hallgrímskirkja. 21:30 night staple. Njálsgata 86. Artistic Dance Fashion Show. Students Football players of both genders show 14:00 Culture Mania at the Other House: Some authors publishing later this year from the Art dancing school of Iceland their skills. Landsbankinn, Austurstræti. Fun at Grófin. Twins Juri and Vadim Fedrov The Street Theatre will be out and about read from their works. Music in the intervals. interpret fashion. GuSt&dísjón. Laugav. 39. Hula hula and Limbo competition. play accordions at the steps by Kogga. between 16 and 18. Súfistinn,Mál og Menning bookstore. Happenings in the garden. Einar Jónsson Kirsuberjatréð, Vesturgötu. Graffiti in the Making. Behind the Summer Opera shows scenes from DJ´s Hip Hop, Break, Dance, Rap and Art Museum in the garden. Tríó Cantabile band. Everything from Intercultural House, Hverfisgata 18. L´Incoronazione di Poppea at 16:10. Graffiti behind the Intercultural House. These three and Eivör band perform. serious works to popular music. Fríkirkjan Garden Walk. Starts by Ingólfsnaust at the The Fusion dance group performs in Until 22. Kaffileikhúsið,Hlaðvarpinn, Vesturgata. church, Fríkirkjuvegur. corner of Aðalstræti and Vesturgata. the attic every half hour between 16:30 Einar Gíslason plays the accordion. The band Maus (with video installations by Otherwise Poets. Heimir Már, Didda and A date with the past. Have your and 18:30. Listaselið, Skólavörðustígur 17b. Dodda Maggý, Heimir Björgvinsson and former Sugarcube Þór Eldon read their picture taken in 19th Century attire for The actors from Date.is give dating Adventureland, music and coffee. The Ragnar Hansson). Tjarnarbíó Theater. poetry. Music by chief of the pagans Hilmar 100kr. Grófarhús, 6th floor. advice and tips. 2nd floor. 17-18. Little Christmas Shop, Grundarstígur 7. Rás 2 concert. Sálin hans Jóns míns. By Örn Hilmarsson. Loftkastalinn theatre. Hlemmur. The bus terminal becomes a The Marching Band of the Masses plays Smárinn accordion quartet play. Shop the harbour. Starts at 21:45. The twins Juri and Vadim Fedorov play cultural center with exhibitions and events. frequently between 16 and 18:30. Stíll, Laugavegur 53. Tango concert with L´amour fou. Iðnó accordions. Gallery Álfur. Bankastræti 5. Until 16:00. Hr. Sivertsen and the Minstrels play at Open house at SPRON. Pippi Theatre, Vonarstræti. Starts at 21:45. Time overload begins and runs until Chewing Gum Painting. Outside the intervals between 16 and 18:30, 2nd floor. Longstockings, The Men´s Choir, Drum and 22.30. Laugavegur Chemist. The Reykjavík Theatre performs scenes Brass Until 22. SPRON Skólavörðustíg. from Faith Healer on the 2nd floor, 16-18. Æla (Vomit) from Keflavík open the 22:00 Crayola Man will be in Austurstræti. Introduction to the happenings of Church choir. Dómkirkjan church. The Living Theatre performs short pieces show with video installation by Berglind Organic harvest. Farmers introduce their Gjörningaklúbburinn. Living Art Museum, The Salvation Army sings. Ingólfstorg in the attic, 16-18. Águstsdóttir & Curver. Tjarnarbíó Theater. organic dairy products and vegetables. Vatnsstígur. square. Poetry by Aginia at the Information Nordic Poetry and Music. Piano player Yggdrasill, Kárastíg 1. Pentagon. A play comprised of five parts. The Band Van Trapps amuses at Gallerí Centre, 16:40-17:00. Hrönn Þráinsdóttir and sopran singer Iðnó Theatre, Vonarstræti. Álfur, Bankastræti 5. The Happy Painters have a circus Margrét Hrafnsdóttir perform works by Fun at Grófin. Guðlaug Dröfn Ólafsdóttir Singing group “Ingveldur Ýr” sings 14:30 exhibition on the 2nd floor, 16-20. among others Grieg, Sibelius and Jórunn trio play jazz on the porch outside Kaffi varied repertoire. National Gallery of Lotto. Works of art as prizes. Gallery Fold. Trio Cantabile concert in the attic, 16.45- Viðar. Iðnó, Vonarstræti. Reykjavík. Iceland, Fríkirkjuvegur. Fun at Grófin. Scenes from The 17:00. Anonymous (electronic music) with video Helgi Þórsson (Stillupsteypa) with video Holy hour. Songs, organ and prayer. Summer Opera: The Coronation of Best of Radio Mandolin on the staircase, installation by AudRey Del Sol. Tjarnarbíó installation by Stillupsteypa. Tjarnarbíó Hallgrímskirkja church. Poppea by Claudio Monteverdi, performed 16-19. Theater, Starts at 18:45. Theater. Starts 20:15. Einar Gíslason plays the accordian. out of the window of Galíleó and on the The Trash Can Girls have a picture Listaselið, Skólavörðustígur 17b. square by Ingólfsnaust. exhibition in the hall and explain their Scenes from the popular play Sellofón. project, 16-19. 19:00 20:30 Landsbankinn, Austurstræti. Picture Exhibition of the Mice. 16-20. The band Doctuz perform. City Library, Line Dancing by Danshúsið. Kolaportið Regína Ósk and her band. Penninn 15:00 Visual Art by Baldur Sigurgeirsson in Grófarhús, Tryggvagata. Pagan Walk. A walk about Skólavörðuholt. Flea Market. Eymundsson, Austurstræti. Gallery Tukt, 16-20. The Open Gallery. Contemporary art. Starts by the Leif Ericsson statue outside Artistic Dance Fashion Show. Students Bardukha band. Mál og menning. Starts The Other House, Pósthússtræti 3-5. Laugavegur 73. Hallgrímskirkja. The Hallgrímskirkja Motet Choir sings. from the Art dancing school of Iceland 22:22. Konstantin Chtcherbak plays the A walk around the old West End. Starts Hallgrímskirkja church. interpret fashion. GuSt&dísjón. Laugav. 39. balalaika and other instruments. Gallery at Ingólfsnaust at the corner of Aðalstræti Benedikt the gnome and Dídí entertain Fun at Grófin. Juri and Vadim Fedrov . Bankastræti 5. 22:30 and Vesturgata. the youngest. Landsbankinn, Austurstræti. walk around Grófin with their accordions Music scenes from the play Plómur. Bark burning. Fire Giant will be created. The Puppet Mobile. Fríkirkjuvegur 11. Living Room Concert. A family friendly and entertain guests. Listasmiðjan Nú, Skólavörðustígur 6. Vinnustofa Tedda, at the corner of The Beringer Blass Waiter Run. Starts program of folk and poetry. Culture House. Nordic Super Trio Jazz Concert in the Dance your way into Reykjavík Culture Klappastígur and Skúlagata. Starts 22:23. at Café Victor. Hafnarstræti 1-3. Jazz standards performed by Hlín Lilja Kaffileikhúsið, Hlaðvarpinn. Vesturgötu. Night with Spaðar. Nordic House. DJ Margeir and Jóel Pálsson saxophone Siglufjörður at City Hall. The town of Sigfúsdóttir Trio. Iðnó Theatre. Guðbjörn Gunnarsson opera singer Funny Opera. They promise you player play at Metz, Austurstræti. Siglufjörður is Reykjvík Culture Nights Fun at Grófin. Elly is always good. One performs. Gallery Fold. Starts at 20:40. something you’ve never heard before. Einar Jónsson. Folk songs played on a special guest, and its history and culture act play. An exiting psychological thriller Kimono (experimental rock) with video Íslandsbanki, Lækjargata. trumpet. Landsbankinn, Austurstræti. are introduced. The City Hall. with a surprise ending. Kaffi Reykjavík. installation by AudRey Del Sol. Tjarnarbíó Southern Breeze. Big band plays on the Tango show and ball, Café Culture. Nordic Super Trio Jazz Concert. Hudson Wayne (lo-fi rock) with video Theater, Starts at 20:45. porch. Ari í Ögri, Ingólfsstræti. Rás 2 concert. Stuðmenn. Reykjavík Sponsored by Sjóvá Almennar. National installations by Lortur and “the Buffalo” by Pentagon. A play comprised of five parts. harbour. Gallery of Iceland, Fríkirkjuvegur. Retron. Tjarnarbíó Theater. Starts 19:15. Iðnó Theatre, Vonarstræti. Aviation Festival. Exhibition and flying The Iceland Dance Company performs. 21:00 Dancing on the square. The group Come show. 15.00-20.00. Reykjavík Airport. Landsbankinn, Austurstræti. Starts 19:45. The Band Van Trapps amuses at Gallerí 23:00 and Dance. Everyone welcome to join in. The seer Erla Stefánsdóttir tells stories Jóhann Eiriksson (Product 8) with videos Álfur, Bankastræti 5. Harbour fireworks display. Courtesy of 16-17.30. Ingólfstorg Square. of elves and trolls. Gallery Álfur. by Einar Örn Benediktsson and Magnus Celebration by the people of Orkuveita Reykjavíkur. Chess and Coffee. Mass competition with Faeroese singer Eivör Pálsdóttir plays. Logi Kristjánsson. Tjarnarbíó Theater. Siglufjörður. Song and music, herring and The program is open to revision. chess master Guðfríður Lilja Grétarsdóttir. Tryggingarmiðstöð, Aðalstræti 6-8. Starts Starts 19:45. shrimp. Reykjavík City Hall. For updates go to: www.visitreykjavik.is. Anyone can join. Junior Chamber. at 16:30.

The main sponsor of Reykjavík Culture Night 16 - the reykjavík grapevine - august 8th - august 21st, 2003 august 8th - august 21st, 2003 - the reykjavík grapevine - 17 C I T Y G U I D E

GRAPEVINE IN YOUR POCKET THIS PULLOUT HAS ALL THE INFORMATION ONE MIGHT NEED, SO FOR A SAFER JOURNEY, PULL IT OUT AND PUT IT IN YOUR POCKET LEAVING THE CITY café If you’re not going to hitchhike your way out of 1. Te og Kaffi town and you haven’t got a bike, there are three Laugavegur 27 ways to do it. Because of it’s small entrance, it easy to miss while walking by. Being not only a café, but also a gift shop, it is well worth the visit. It’s Reykjavik’s answer to Starbucks, with a large selection Rent a car of coffees, teas and everything you need to consume your coffee at home. The café itself may not be the best place to sit A comfortable way to if you can afford it, renting a down in, but does great takeaway. car for 24 hours can cost anywhere from 6.900kr (89$/83EU) with insurance and unlimited mileage. 2. Ráðhúskaffi City Hall You can rent anything from a four wheeled aluminum With view over the city pond, Ráðhúskaffi is situated inside tin can (usually a VW Polo) to a huge Motor home/ Reykjavíks City Hall. Coffee and great cakes as you enjoy the VR, jeeps are also available. Car rentals are situated view. Free internet access for costumers and around the corner inside the City Hall, you’ll find a big 80m2 model of Iceland. in most of Iceland’s larger towns, e.g. Reykjavik, Akureyri, Ísafjörður, Selfoss and Egilsstaðir. You 3. Grái Kötturinn must be at least 20 years old, and you must have Hverfsgata 16a Grái Köttiurinn is across the street from Iceland’s National been licensed to drive for at least one year at the Theater and very small and very popular in the early hours of the time of the rental. The rental company usually day. A good place to start a day the British way, with eggs and require payment by credit card.. bacon and other traditional breakfasts on the menu. The lunch menu is also inviting.

Taking the Bus 4. Kaffitár Reykjavik’s main bus terminal is BSI (www.bsi.is). It Bankastræti 8 The colors of the Rainbow meet you when you enter this café on opens at 7:30 (9:00 in weekends) and closes at Bankastræti, with a different color on every wall. It’s small but has 19:00. BSI’s bus routes go all around Iceland, at a good coffee and tasty side dishes. rather reasonable price. It’s one of these places that make you want to sit down and watch daily life go by on one of downtown´s busiest streets, or simply The buses are accurate and usually on time, a just to read the newspaper. big advantage, but the time between trips from one place can sometimes vary from a few hours 5. Súfistinn Laugavegur 18 to a couple of day’s, a disadvantage for the less The only no smoking café in the centre and always crowded. patient. Being inside Mál & Menning bookstore on Laugavegurinn is it’s You can also check out BSI’s guided tours either at biggest advantage. You are allowed to pick up books, magazines and newspapers from the bookstore, and read them there over a their website (www.dice.is), or simply contact the cup of coffee and/or a snack. bus terminal. 6. Mokka Skólavörðustígur 3a Get airborne An Icelandic tradition since 1958, Mokka is the oldest café in There are two airlines that handle Iceland’s Reykjavik and the first one to make coffee with an espresso machine. Mokka celebrated its 45th birthday on May 24. The domestic flights, Flugfélag Íslands (Air Iceland) and walls are covered with art for sale and seats usually filled by the smaller islandsflug We recommend you visit loyal customers. their websites for more info on their fairs and so on. 7. Kaffivagninn Both airlines are situated on Reykjavik airport in the Grandagarður 10 center of Reykjavik. Flying to Akureyri, usually costs By the harbor where fishermen and sailors along with bus drivers around 7.500kr (100$/90EU.) and flights to all and old badasses gather for lunch and a cup of coffee. If you want to try out traditional Icelandic food, pancakes or bread destinations are frequent, often up to three times a covered with smoked lamb this is the right place although you day, but If you think you’re going to be enjoying the might feel slightly apprehensive about the tough old guys, don’t view on your way, you will be disappointed. worry! They’re not going to be the last thing you see in this life. www.flugfelag.is 8. Café Paris Austurstræti 14 www.islandsflug.is Situated in the heart of the city with view over Austurvöllur, its spacious, popular and usually full. Offers you light meals and -and of course you can always walk. the opportunity to sit outside when the weather is nice. Middle aged Icelanders on every other table, and tourists in between, the usual crowd, Café Paris is international like the city it’s named after. S P O T T H I S 9. Tíu Dropar Laugavegur 27 With the exception of Mokka café, Tíu Dropar is the oldest café in downtown Reykjavik. The place has a very special feel to it, Reykjavík Culture Night the decor, the tables and the chairs, along with the service All around the City makes you feel very much at home, it’s almost like your sitting down for a cup of coffee in your grandma’s kitchen. The menu is limited, but has the advantage of constant changes, with new items every day. bar and bistro (most are cafés too)

10. Café Victor Hafnarstræti 1-3 Spelt with a c rather than with the more traditional k in order to be more cosmopolitan. This ploy seems to be working, as the bar has become something of a hangout for foreigners. The Viking ship sitting on top of the house might also add to the appeal. The crowd is very mixed, both in origin and age, and so is the music. 15. Cafe 22 atmosphere is lifted up in weekends with live jazz music, a rare best place to go. Laugavegur 22 sight in downtown Reykjavik. Recommended for those who want 11. Hverfisbar Originally a gay hang out now it’s a place where you can pass to have a chilled night out and take it easy. 25. Coffee Shop 11 Hverfisgata 20 through all the stages without leaving the building, from chatting Laugavegur 11 Very long queues to get in, and once there, you wonder what on the first floor, dancing on the second, to passing out on the 20. Vegamót Owned by the same people as 22, and sort of its little brother. the fuss was about, or whether the queue was the best part. third, where the atmosphere is more of an intimate late night Vegamótastígur 4 Usually has decent rock music and a pretty good jukebox if you’re When it’s four o clock on a Sunday morning and you’re still going one. Still maintains the feeling of being a place for people who Wants to be the in-spot to be seen, and is just that. Dress up, still not happy. Foosball on the upper floor, and if you ask Gústi strong, this might be the place you’ll wind up, by which time don´t necessarily fit in anywhere else, which makes it a great flaunt it and enjoy the view as others do the same. It’s a jungle the bartender nicely, he might perform the house trick for you, you probably won’t care that the same song seems to come place to hang out. in there, and the fittest, or at least the fittest looking, come which is putting a match into his mouth and pulling it out of his on every half hour. out on top. nose, and if you meet him on a good day, he might even put a pen 16. Kaffibarinn into one nostril and take it out the other as an encore. Watch out On Reykjavík Culture Night those present in the 12. Grand Rokk Bergstaðarstræti 1 21. Kaffibrennslan for slam poetry nights first Thursday of every month. city can expect events all over the city, including Smiðjustígur 6 Kaffibarinn is cool Reykjavik, or at least tries to be. Reykjavik Pósthússtræti 9 street theaters performing, singers singing and A place true to Rock ‘n Roll, leather, long hair and bands that don’t prides itself on having more artists per capita than any other On the sober side of town, but ironically with the largest selection 26. Kaffi Kúltur poets reading on street corners. Everyone who do covers. Well known and less known Icelandic bands play for capital in the world, and the crowd here seem to be trying to of beers in Reykjavik, good coffee and even better service, (and Hverfisgötu 18 free (free drinks for band members, need I say more?) usually no has an instrument is encouraged to bring it along, prove the point, with musicians, actors and writers, and a whole imagine, we’re not getting paid for saying this). One of these For those who grow tired of seeing nothing but palefaces about less than three bands a night, four nights a week. Grab a beer lot of wannabes. You can’t say you’ve partied in Reykjavik unless cafés/bars that should fit all, the editors admit they drink coffee town, Kaffi Kúltur might be a pleasant diversion. During the day friends should form choirs and families form and rock on! During the day this is a hangout for chess players, you’ve partied here, although civilians might have a hard time here more often than they should. its something of a hangout for the actors from the National dancing groups, and everyone should entertain challenging each other and anyone that might wander in here for getting in. Blur´s Damon Albnarn owns a piece of this one wisely Theatre, just across the street, but in the evening it is populated themselves by entertaining others. Here to help a game. Some of them seem to have finally decided to abandon figuring it was cheaper than paying for drinks. 22. Celtic Cross by both new and older Icelanders. They have multi-ethnic food you as always is Grapevine, with a guide on how participation in the outside world in favour of the afternoon Hverfisgata 26 and frequent concerts. Wednesday night is tango night. Anyone drinking and chess. to navigate through the joy. 17. Sirkus Arguably the bar in town that comes closest to deserving the title can join in, but this is not a place to learn. Klapparstígur 30 of Irish, even though the Dubliner tries harder. Except for the 13. Sólon Weird inside out and the tropical forest painted on the outside coffin in the back, it’s very much alive. Live music almost every Full listings are to be found on page 15, perfect Bankastræti 7a gives you a hint of what’s to come. It’s Reykjavik’s underground night and middle aged philosophers asking themselves questions for putting in your pocket with the centrefold One size fits all is what this place is going for, and it’s usually a wildlife in a small cage, it’s kinda like someone threw a party at about life during the day, over a pint of beer or a cup of coffee. clubs map. very crowded pick up place. Somewhat expensive, and whether home, and things got a bit out of hand... months ago. It’s as it´s because of this, an attempt at masculinity or just general tiny as an apartment for two and the second floor looks just like 23. Prikið 27. Spotlight despair, people have been known to jump from the second floor someone’s´ living room. Cramped, but the bathroom queue is a Bankastræti 12 Hafnarstræti 17 On page 14 you will fi nd most of the highlights balcony. This is not recommended, as a broken leg is most often good place to meet people. Always a classic, no matter if it’s early on a Monday morning With perhaps the exception of the Vatican, every self respecting explained, in as much as art can be. the result, and the girls remain duly unimpressed. or very late on a Satuday night, Prikið makes your day (or night city has at least one gay club, and this is Reykjaviks. 18. Nelly’s if that’s your thing). Nice coffee, better music and remember Gay, bi or simply curious, are supported by a crowd that’s there to dance rather than to make moves (If you know where I’m Where exactly they are taking place can be seen 14. Kráin Þingholtsstræti 2 to dance, if you can manage to take advantage of the very Laugavegi 73 going). Cool happening club and likely to be entertaining unless in the venue fi nder on page 18, and the stars on Has just changed management, so what will happen now is limited space An atmospheric place, which has its regulars and and is sadly anyone´s guess. All we can do is hope they maintain their policy you’re particularly prudish. the map represent some hightlights. Is everything one of few places that has Kronenburg on tap. A rather quiet of being the cheapest bar in Reykjavík. 24. Dubliners Crowd: 20+ clear? Now go have a blast, enjoy the evening but place to chat on the weekdays, and troubadour plays there every Hafnarstræti 4 stay clear of the brown acid and all that. weekend. It also has occasional jazz piano concerts. 19. Little Central The city’s main Irish pub, which, as in many cities, means that 28. Gaukur á Stöng Pósthússtræti 17 it´s a hangout for all sorts of foreigners. At the weekends Tryggvagata 22 Little Central is both small, central and cosy. It’s situated in there’s also a large influx of locals, often of the slightly older Iceland’s oldest club is turning 20 this fall. During the day it’s a cellar near Austurvöllur, just behind the church. The quiet variety. If you like the darker stuff on tap, this is probably the a pool pub and on weekday evenings there are often live rock 16 - the reykjavík grapevine - august 8th - august 21st, 2003 august 8th - august 21st, 2003 - the reykjavík grapevine - 17

Reykjavík has no trams trains or subways, only buses. pay more for your ride. The driver can not change your call is around 24:00. The main bus stops in Reykjavik These yellow things can take you pretty much any- money. For those of you used to the honesty system, are Hlemmur and Lækjartorg (see map), there you’ll be where in Reykjavík’s suburb areas. It’s a slow system this system is as honest, because if you don’t pay, able to get all the information you need. and you might have to change buses a couple of times you don’t ride. You can ask the driver for a free time to get where you want to though usually things run limited exchange ticket, smoothly, and on time. The price of a single fare is if you need two buses to 220kr, for an adult, (60kr for children under 12). If complete your journey. you are in town for more than a few days then 9 ticket The bus system is closed package for 1500kr would be a better bet. Bus cards during the night, you can HOW TO USE valid for two weeks a month or three months are also catch your fi rst bus available. You have to pay as you step on board and between 6:40 and 7:00 it has to be the accurate amount, unless you want to in the morning, and last PUBLIC TRANSPORT

at the Corithia Nevskij Palace in St. Petersburg. Ask Chef Jeff Tunks ower of the fabulous DC Coast in Washington DC. Ask USEFUL NUMBERS anyone who is somebody in the culinary world, and they will tell you about Siggi Hall, Iceland´s famous chef and television Car rentals personality. Siggi Hall has presented Icelandic gourmet food all ALP 562-6060 over the world. His television show is very popular and so are his Avis 591-4000 cookbooks. The Siggi Hall restaurant at Hotel Odinsve is one of the 100 best new restaurants in the world according to Condé Budget 567-8300 Nast Travel Magazine. Need we say more. Europcar 591-4050 SBK Car Rental 420-6000 40. Argentína Barnsstígur 11a Internet Cafés “A dark cavernous, off-beat restaurant called Argentina...””A steak house where the lamb has killed the beef..” and “a BSI, Vatnsmýrarvegur 10 101 Rvk. gastronomic delight.” are just few of the impressive compliments Ground Zero, Ingólfstorg, 101 Rvk. paid to this restaurant k-LANið, Laugavegi 103, 101 Reykjavík David Rosengarten wrote in his American Newsletter not too long ago: “Lots of chefs in Reykjavik riff on local lamb, but if you want Ráðhúskaffi, City Hall 101 Rvk. to see it in its most pristine form, you can dine at Argentina.” Netkaffi, Kringlan mall 103 Rvk. There are few places in Reykjavik where you can simply sense the This is Iceland, Laugavegur20, 101 Rvk. deep passion for simply prepared seasonal foods. Tourist information center, Lækjargata 2, 101 Rvk. 41. Tapas Vesturgata 3b Post offices For those with a bit of money and time on their hands, the evening Central Post office, Pósthússtræti 5, 101 Rvk. can hardly be better spent than at Tapas, where you can vile away Post Office, Kringlan Mall, 103 Rvk. the evening having course after course of wonderful miniature dishes served. Particularly recommended is the garlic fried lob- Laundry Services ster and duck in apricot sauce. If afterwards, you don’t feel like Embla Laundry, Barónsstígur 3, 101 Rvk. getting up right away, there’s also a rather large lounge to lounge in, and the paintings are worth a look. Taxi services Borgarbílastöðin 552-2440 reykjavík culture night BSR 561-0000 Hreyfill 588-5522 42. Culture Mania at the Other House Pósthússtræti 3-5 Useful for emergencies The Street theatre, the Summer Opera, the Fusion Dance Group Emergency phone 112 and the Marching Band of the Masses are but some of the other Information 118 house artists who will be out and about giving performances. The actors from Date.is will give dating advice, which might come Dentist 575-0505 in handy as the evening wears on, Trio Cantabile give a concert in Doctor 1770 the attic Aginia read poetry in the information centre.. Exhibitions Pharmacies (find your closest) call 118 include works by the Happy Painters, the Trash Can Girls and Baldur Sigurgeirsson. Rent a bike 43. Open University-Science Marathon, Top Shop house. Borgarhjól, Hverfisgata 50, 101 Rvk Lækjargata BSÍ, Vatnsmýrarvegur, 101 Rvk Strange items from the University cellars on display. Scientists Tourist information center, Lækjargata 2, 101 Rvk. explain some riddles of chemistry and physics using lasers, helium and nitrium. Puzzles and illusions from the psychology department. At 16, 18 and 20 scientists will attempt to answer Useful Websites any questions posed by the audience for 45 minutes. www.icelandtourist.is www.visitreykjavik.is 44. In Traditional Style at Landsbankinn bank Austurstræti 11 www.this.is/iceland A very wide selection of events starts at 17 with an art expert guiding us through an exhibition, then footballplayers show there skills, after which Benedikt the gnome and Dídí entertain the kids. The Iceland Dance Company performs and scenes from R E V I E W S B Y the popular play Sellofón are shown. The highlight is probably Restaurants a performance by guitar trio Guitar Islandico playing traditional Sonny Greco tunes in jazz arrangements. This is followed by Einar Jónsson playing the trumpet. Bars, clubs, bistros, cafés and fast food The Editors 45. The Intercultural Centre Map Hvefi sgötu 18 Various multicultural events all day from 14-22. It begins with Bjarki Þór Kjartansson graffi ti artists and hip hop music. At 18 there´s a fl amenco show, and after 8 DJ´s, rappers and breakdancers perform. At 22.30 there’s Argentinean tango which everyone can participate in afterwards. The artist Gerla displays a work on the steps dedicated to multicultural women.

46. Rás 2 Concert, at 21-23 Reykjavík Harbour State run Radiostation Rás 2 is celebrating it’s 20th anniversary with this concert. Performing are Quarashi, Iceland´s premium hip-hop export, pop band Sálin, a major player on the countyside ball scene for the past 15 years, and Stuðmenn, one of the most consistently popular and best bands of the past three decades.

47. Grófargleði This is a small area surrounded by bars which is host to a series of events from 14 to 22. It begins with the brothers Fedrov playing accordion and then come scenes from the Summer Opera´s The Coronation of Poppea by Monteverdi, the reggae band Svasil and the singing of the Larynx Society. This is followed by the one act play Ellý er alltaf góð and the jazz trio of Guðlaug Dröfn Ólafsdóttir. At 20.30 events move into the Coffee Theatre in Hlaðvarpin, with the Supertrio and the band These Three and Eivör. concerts. On weekends there is usually a lot of action with the late 18 hundreds, the Apotek is now a modern restaurant cover bands playing everything from Britney to the Beatles. with Art Deco Interior. You can still see the names of the chief 36. Sommelier 48. Time overload Without exception you’ll be charged at least 1000kr for entrance managing pharmacists/owners on the wall of the bar. Today, this Hverfi sgata 46 Tjarnarbíó in the evenings. “drugstore” serves a different type of milkshake. Now look for a The Sommelier not only has an excellent menu – Icelandic Begins at 18 with the band æla (Vomit) from Kefl avík, and goes on Crowd: 20+ sizzling visual kitchen (behind a glass wall) with a Super Menu! cooking with delicate French Touch – but the Sommelier wine list until 22. Other acts are electronic band Anonymous, lo-fi rock by Apotek is an eating experience not to be missed. is admired for its variety of specially selected wines. The service Hudson Wayne, Retron, Jóhann Eiríksson, Helgi Þórsson, Kimono 29. Nasa is impeccable and the waiters take time to discuss the qualities and Maus. While music is played, video artists show their works. by Austurvöllur 33. La Primavera of each and every wine listed, if you wish. The wine list has two Other happenings include tire changing, onstage haircuts, sock Used to be a theater, but is now a club. New in Reykjavik’s Austurstræti 9 hundred entries ! This is were you may just happen to meet stars selling and perhaps a live wedding. The defi nitive alternative to nightlife and it seems that there was need for it. Great sound Everybody laughed when we discovered a contemporary of stage and television, if you´re lucky ! the mainstream music industry, at least for a night. system and occasional live bands. Most come to dance and restaurant that has its most notable infl uences from Northern space out. Because of little competition it is perhaps the only Italian cooking but using local Icelandic produce. The unique 37. Hótel Holt 49. Ingólfstorg square super-club downtown. Admission 1000 krónur. menu that results from this combination features homemade Bergstaðarstræti 37 The Rás 2 radio weekend special kicks off from the square pastas, risotto, gnochi, polenta and a wide variety of the An exclusive hotel housing Iceland’s Most Renowned Restaurant, with interviews, live music and the like. An old fi re engine will 30. Leikhúskjallarinn freshest vegetables, fi sh, poultry, meat and game. The menu, the Gallery. be on display. At 15.30 the waiter run comes through here, Hverfisgata 19 the atmosphere and a comprehensive, exclusively Italian wine An evening at The Gallery Restaurant remains an unforgettable on its way from Café Viktor to Vínbarinn. The group Komið og Recently opened again and is gaining respect, It’s a Restaurant list has made La Primavera a favorite among the locals. They experience, if your passion is good wine and food. The superb dansið (Come and Dance) perform at 16 and invite everyone to during the day but a dance place during night (weekends of laugh no more!! cuisine is inspired by French culinary tradition and includes a participate, and then the Bahía dance group takes over with their course). The crowd here is usually little more mature then in the variety of Icelandic seafoods and organic lamb. The impressive expressive dancing against social ills such as poverty, prejudice other clubs. Talented DJs play with the drunken crowd. 34. Við Tjörnina selection of vintage wines is unique for lovers of the grape. and drug abuse. Crowd: 25+ Templarasund 3 This is where you will see original Icelandic art, without having The most novel fi sh restaurant in Iceland. The owner, Chef Runar to go to a gallery. The Holt has the largest privately owned art 50. Fold Gallery Marvinsson, is known for innovative fi sh dishes made from a collection in Iceland. Rauðarárstíg 14 restaurant variety of rare fi sh and shellfi sh and related raw materials. Mr. 12 paintings by Andy Warhol of famous atheletes from the years Marvinsson is also a respected food and cooking personality 38. 3 Frakkar 1977-8, as a well as one single piece, in the hall in the back. In the and the author of several cookbooks. His respect for his raw Baldursgata 14 Red Room there is an exhibition of glass works by Jónas Bragi. 31. Einar Ben materials is a tribute to fi sh and shellfi sh, showing off their natural This is a restaurant that cannot be ignored. A very small place A drawing competition for children, wherein the best picture of a Veltusund 1 goodness without artifi ciality. Chef Marvinsson is really a natural with an atmosphere. Here you may enjoy the house specialties bus will be rewarded goes on until 23. There is also a free lottery Full of 19th century charm the restaurant Einar Ben is named wonder and a particular favourite with Icelanders!! of Icelandic traditional dishes prepared in the good, old-fashioned every 30 minutes, wherein the prices are works of art. The opera after one of Iceland’s fi nest poets, Einar Benediktsson It is manner, including catfi sh, shark, and whale steaks. And of singer Guðbjörn Gunnarsson will perform at 15.40. situated in the older section of Reykjavik’s mid-town, close to 35. Humarhúsið course much more. If you´re lucky, Chef Ulfar Eysteinsson, the harbor. A fi ne menu features a contemporary version of the Amtmannsstíg 1 the owner,may be present regaling the clientele with wild 51. Reykjavik Art Museum Icelandic international kitchen. The Menu is composed by Chef One of the most popular places in Reykjavik or should we say whaling tales Hafnarstræti Bardur Brandsson, whose magic is outstanding. The food and Iceland, - a gourmet restaurant in the heart of Reykjavik. The Don’t forget to ask Chef Ulfar for dark Icelandic pumpernickel As well as abolishing entrance fees for its regular exhibitions, the old Einar Ben. Atmosphere is something you can’t miss. A kitchen has a menu with various types of shellfi sh, lobster and bread with pure Icelandic butter. including the Bad Taste exhibition Lobster of Fame and Erro´s visiting journalist has likened it to a Hollywood photo from Gloria the amazingly sweet and succulent langoustine (sometimes Don´t forget to make a reservation ! political works, 100 short fi lm clips by the young members of Swanson’s personal family album. Seriously !! called Icelandic Lobster). the summer work school will be shown starting at 14. Then the The specialty of the house is a rich Cream of Lobster Soup has 39. Siggi Hall at Óðinsvé legendary documentary of the early 80´s Reykjavík punk scene 32. Apotek been hailed all over the world by international gourmet writer Þórsgata 1 (featuring Björk, of course) will be screened. In the evening Austurstræti 16 David Rosengarten, whose comments appear in the fi nest food Ask Chef Dellea, the only Italian who is “Commandeur de la there´s a lecture about traditional forms of poetry, followed by Formerly the central drugstore of Reykjavik, established in magazines in Europe and in the States. Commanderie de Cordons Bleu de France”. Ask Chef Burmistrov reading 4 poets 18 - the reykjavík grapevine - august 8th - august 21st, 2003 august 8th - august 21st, 2003 - the reykjavík grapevine - 19

VENUE FINDER

Want to be seen in the listings? Send us a mail to [email protected] and your event will be announced in the next issue, and the best thing ADDRESS BOOK LISTINGS is that being in the listings is free! Cafés Theaters Friday, August 8 Café Cozy, Austurstræti 3, p: 511-1033 Borgarleikhúsið, City Theatre, Listabraut 3, p: 568-8000 Both Day and Night Café Paris, Austurstræti 14, p: 551-1020 Light nights, Summer theatre, Iðnó, p: 551-9181 Angurgapi Austurvöllur out door exhibition, Earth from Grái Kötturinn, Hverfisgata 16a, p: 551-1544 Skemmtihúsið Theatre, Laufásvegur 22, p: 552-5198 Above. Aerial Photographs by Yann Arthus- Grandakaffi, Grandagarður 101, p: 552-9094 Möguleikhúsið, Laugavegur 105, p: 562-2669 Cafe Culture Bertrand. Kaffi Vín, Laugavegur 73, p: 561-0073 The Icelandic Opera, Ingólfsstræti 2a, p: 511-4200 Kaffitár, Bankastræti 8, p: 511-4540 Þjóðleikhúsið, Hverfisgata 19, p: 551-1200 Friday August 8th Day Kaffivagninn, Grandagarður 10, p: 551-5932 Reðursafnið, Phallological Museum, A fine Mokka, Skólavörðustígur 3a, p: 552-1174 penis and penis related selection from various Súfistinn, Laugavegur 18, p: 552-3740 Museums mammals. Árbæjarsafn Folk Museum, Kistuhylur 4, p: 577-1111 Te og Kaffi, Laugavegur 27, p: 552-6260 Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum, An exhibition shows ASÍ Art Museum, Freyjugata 41, p: 511-5353 Tíu Dropar, Laugavegur 27, p: 551-9380 life and work in the years 1950-60. Ásmundarsafn Sculpture Museum, Sigtún, p: 553-2155 Ráðhúskaffi, Tjarnargata 11 (City Hall), p: 563-2169 National Gallery of Iceland, Exhibition of Gerðarsafn Kópavogur Art Gallery, Hamraborg 4 Kóp, p: 570-0440 selected works by Icelandic artists from the Café, bar and bistro Gerðuberg Cultural Center, Gerðuberg 3-5, p: 577-7500 National Gallery's collection. Hafnarhúsið Reykjavík Art Museum, Tryggvagata 17, p: 590-1200 National and University Library, Exhibition of the Amsterdam, Hafnarstræti 5, p: 551-3800 Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum, Flókagata,, p: 562-6131 founder of the city´s documentation, also, childrens Café 22, Laugavegur 22, p: 511-5522 Listasalurinn Man, Skólavörðustígur 14, p: 551-2509 literature, texts and drawings. Café Kulture, Hverfisgata 18, p: 530-9314 Menningarhúsið Culture House, Hverfisgata 15, p: 545-1400 Culture House, Images of Iceland - milestones in Café Romance, Lækjargata 2, p: 552-9499 Museum of Natural History, Hlemmur 5, p: 590-0500 cartography Café Victor, Hafnarstræti 1-3, p: 561-9555 National and University Library, Arngrímsgata 3, p: 525-5600 City Harbour, Summer long Fair Celtic Cross, Hverfisgata 26, p: 511-3240 National Archives, Laugavegur 162, p: 562-3393 Norræna húsið, Nordic House, The Big Nordic Coffee Shop 11, Laugavegur 11, p: 511-1180 National Film Archive of Iceland, Vesturgata 11-13, p: 565-5993 The band Angurgapi is a quintet, Elephant Show De Boomkikker, Hafnarstræti 9, p: 551-6780 National Gallery of Iceland, Fríkirkjuvegur 7, p: 515-9600 Reykjavik Museum of Photography, The Five Dubliners, Hafnarstræti 4, p: 511-3233 whose roots can be traced to Ice- Numismatic Museum, Einholt 4, p: 569-9962 Elements. Photographs and etchings from French- Felix, Þingholtsstræti 5, p: 561-6622 Reykjavík Electrical Museum, Rafstöðvarvegur, p: 516-6790 lands premier school of jazz studies, Vietnamese artist Claire Xuan. Glaumbar, Tryggvagata 20, p: 552-6868 Reykjavík Museum of Photography, Tryggvagata 15, p: 563-1790 Tónlistarskóli FÍH. Angurgapi has been Ásmundarsafn, Sculpture museum, The Grand Rokk, Smiðjustígur 6, p: 551-5522 Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum, Laugarnestangi 70, p: 553-2906 Modern Man, works of popular sculptor Ásmundar Hverfisbar, Hverfisgata 20, p: 511-6700 working on their own material for ap- The Ásgrímur Jónsson Collection, Bergstaðastræti 74, p: 515-9625 Sveinsson. Kaffi Austurstræti, Austurstræti 6, p: 552-2615 The Icelandic Art Gallery, Skólavörðustígur 16a, p: 561-4090 proximately one year. Every member Einar Jónsson Sculpture Museum, The works of Kaffi List, Laugavegur 20a, p: 511-1420 The Icelandic Maritime Museum, Vesturgata 8, p: 565-4242 of the band composes and usually the Iceland´s first modern sculptor. Kaffibarinn, Bergstaðastræti 1, p: 551-1588 Hafnarhúsið, Reykjavík Art Museum, -10 Kaffibrennslan, Pósthússtræti 9, p: 561-3600 arrangements are worked out during to 17 -Lobster or Fame Two Decades of Bad Kofi Tómasar Frænda, Laugavegur 2, p: 551-1835 Galleries rehearsals. The music is influenced Taste Ltd. Also Erró´s War paintings and Insight Kráin, Laugavegur 73, p: 561-7722 Artgallery LIST.IS/Listgallerí, Engjateigur 17-19, p: 553 2886 by a wide variety of sources, the main into international contemporary art in Iceland. Little Central, Pósthússtræti 17, p: 561-2244 Art-Hún, Stangarhylur 7, p: 567-3577 Admission 500 ISK. Free on Mondays. Nelly’s, Þingholtsstræti 2, p: 551-2477 Crafts and Design, Aðalstræti 12, p: 551-7595 being: jazz, rock, modal, funk, tango, Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum, -10 to 17 -New Prikið, Bankastræti 12, p: 551-3366 Gallery Reykjavík, Skólavörðustígur 16, p: 552-2500 dub, free improv. Angurgapi will be per- times in Icelandic Photography. Admission 500 Sirkus, Klapparstígur 30, p: 551-1999 Hafnarborg Art Gallery, Strandgata 34, 220 Hfj, p: 555-0080 forming on the 8th of August at Cafe krónur Skipperinn, Tryggvagata 18, p: 551-7530 Hlemmur.is, Þverholt 5, p: 552-0455 Saga Museum, -10 to 18 -History face to face, Sólon, Bankastræti 7a, p: 562-3232 Hnoss, Skólavörðustígur 3, p: 561-8485 Culture, Hverfisgata 18, in downtown historical figures and major events in Icelandic Svarta Kaffið, Laugavegur 54, p: 551-2919 I8, Klapparstígur 33, p: 551-3666 Reykjavík. The concert starts at 23. history presented in a unique way. Admission 800 Torvaldsen bar, Austurstræti 8, p: 511-1413 Kirsuberjatréð, Vesturgata 4, p: 562-8990 Don’t miss this opportunity to witness krónur. Vegamót, Vegamótastígur 4, p: 511-3040 Kóbolt, Laugavegur 55, p: 552-6080 Gallery i8, -11 to 18 -Works of the contemporary Vídalín, Aðalstræti 10, p: 551-0962 Listakot, Laugavegur 70, p: 552-8141 this magical band perform live. artists Roni Horn Vínbarinn, Kirkjutorg 4, p: 552-4120 Meistari Jakob, Skólavörðustígur 5, p: 552-7161 Handverk og Hönnun, -13 to 17 -Exhibition of nr. 5, Skólavörðustígur 5, p: 562-2890 contemporary and traditional Icelandic art and Clubs Ófeigur, Skólavörðustígur 5, p: 551-1161 crafts. Gaukur á Stöng, Tryggvagata 22, p: 551-1556 Skuggi, Hverfisgata 39, p: 511-1139 Sigurjón Ólafsson Sculpture Museum, -14 to Leikhúskjallarinn, Hverfisgata 19, 551-6010 Smíðar og Skart, Skólavörðustíg 16a, p: 561-4090 17 -Portraits and Abstractions Mojito, Austurstræti 16, p: 575-7905 Ensími & 200.000 Safn, -14 to 18 -Collection includes both Spotlight, Hafnarstræti 17, p: 562-6813 international and Icelandic contemporary art. Reykjavík Culture Night Naglbítar Light Nights Summer Theatre, -starts at 20:30 - Restaurants Ari í Ögri, Ingólfsstræti 3, p: 551-9660 Real authentic Icelandic show performed in English, Apótek bar grill, Austurstræti 16, p: 575-7900 Bollagarður 115 is at Seltjarnarnes. Grand Rokk including the most thrilling ghost story ever told; Ban-Thai, Laugavegur 130, p: 552-2444 Café Culture, Hverfisgöta 18, p: 530-9314 The Deacon of Myrká Café Ópera, Lækjargata 2, p: 552-9499 Culture House, Hverfisgötu 15, p: 545-1400 Saturday August 9th Night Carpe Diem, Rauðarárstígur 18, p: 552-4555 Einar Jónsson Sculpture Museum, Eiríksgata, p: 551-3797 Kráin 73, Acoustic Blues duet Caruso, Þingholtsstræti 1, p: 562-7335 Galleri Sævar Karl, Bankastræti 7, p: 551-3470 Gaukur á Stöng, Band Buff, free entrance Einar Ben, Veltusund 1, p: 511-5090 Gallery Álfur, Bankastræti 5 Spotlight, Boys only dance with DJ Fabio White Galileo, Hafnarstræti 1-3, p: 552-9500 Gallery Fold, Rauðarárstígur 14, p: 551-0400 Celtic Cross, Coverband 3some downstairs and Hereford steikhús, Laugavegur 53b, p: 511-3350 Grófarhúsið, Tryggvagötu 15 troubadour Ómar Hlyns upstairs Hornið, Hafnarstræti 15, p: 551-3340 Grófinis the area around Kaffi Reykjavík, Restaurant Gallileo and Kogga Galleri Café Metz, DJ Andrés Humarhúsið (Lobster house), Amtmannsstígur 1, p: 561-3303 Heilsuhúsið, Skólavörðustíg 12, p: 552-2966 Kaffibarinn,DJ Andri Ítalía, Laugavegur 11, p: 552-4630 Hitt Húsið (The Other House) , Pósthússtræti 3-5, p: 520-4600 Glaumbar, DJ Atli Jónatan Livingston M, Tryggvagata 4-6, p: 551-5520 Hljómskólagarðurin is the park on the opposite of City Hall. Hverfisbar,DJ Benni La Primavera, Austurstræti 9, p: 561-8555 Iðnó theater, Vonarstræti 3, p: 562-9700 Mojito Club, DJ Daddi disko Lækjarbrekka, Bankastræti 2, p: 551-4430 Intercultural Centre, Hverfisgötu 18, p: 530-9300 Coffee shop 11, DJ Einar Sonic Lónið, Hótel Lofleiðir, p: 444-4055 Junior Chamber, Hellusundi 3, p: 899-0966 Thorvaldsen bar, DJ Hlynur Naustið, Vesturgata 6-8, p: 552-3030 Kaffi Reykjavík,Vesturgötu 2 Nelly´s, DJ Jón Gestur Pasta Basta, Klapparstígur 38, p: 561-3131 Kaffileikhúsið Hlaðvarpanum, Vesturgötu 3b, p: 551-9030 Vegamót, DJ Kári Rauðará Steakhouse, Rauðarárstígur 37, p: 562-6766 Kogga Ceramik Studio, Vesturgata 5, p: 552-6036 Sirkus, DJ KGB Resturant Esja, Suðurlandsbraut 2. Kolaportið, Reykjavík Flea market, Tryggvagötu 19, p: 562-5030 200.000 Naglbítar are a band of broth- Amsterdam, DJ Master Skrúður, Hótel Saga, p: 525-9900 Landsbankinn bank, Austurstræti 11, p: 560-6000 Kofi Tómasar frænda,DJ Sidekick Sommelier brasserie, Hverfisgata 46, p: 511-4455 Loftkastalinn, Seljavegi 2, 552-3000 ers…and a drummer from Akureyri. Prikið, DJ Sóley Þrír Frakkar, Baldursgata 14, p: 552-3939 Mál og Menning bookstore, Laugavegi 18, p: 515-2500 The two brothers take care of the Café Sólon, DJ Svali Café 22, DJ Þórhallur Thule Tjarnarbakkinn, Vonarstræti 3, p: 562-9700 Metz, Austurstræti 9, p: 561-3000 vocals, guitar and bass guitar and the Við Tjörnina, Templarasund 3, p: 551-8666 Nasa, by Austurvöllur, p: 511-1313 Café Culture, DJ’s of the house take on various multicultural music themes Viðey, Viðey island, p: 568-1045 National Museum of Iceland, Suðurgata 41, p: 552-8888 drummer, well, drums. Their lyrics are, Norræna Húsið, Nordic House, Sturlugata 5, p: 551-7030 with a few exceptions, in Icelandic, but Nasa, Famous cover band Skítamórall (Shit) Café Culture, Jazz Band Angurgapi Nýlistasafnið, The Living Art Museum, Vatnsstígur 3, p: 551-4350 rock is always rock and for those not Movie Theaters Reykjavík Art Museum, Hafnarhús, Tryggvagata 17, p: 590-1200 Little Central, Jazz band Rubik’s Cube Bíóhöllin, Álfabakki 8, p: 587-8900 Reykjavik City Hall, by the pond, Tjarnargötu 11, p: 563-2000 very familiar with the native language Dubliners, Live music by Rut Reginalds and BB Háskólabíó, Hagatorg, p: 530-1919 Skífan store, Laugavegi 26, p: 525-5040 Leikhúskjallarinn, The ultimate party all night with should be able to get the general idea. one of Iceland’s top disco party DJ´s “Johnny Dee,” Kringlubíó, Kringlan 4-12, p: 588-0800 SPRON, Skólavörðustíg 11, p: 550-1200 The band has just recently recorded or so they say Laugarásbíó, Laugarási, p: 535-2075 Tjarnarbíó theater, Tjarnargötu 12, p: 561-0280 Ari í Ögri, Troubadour Garðar Garðars Regnboginn, Hverfisgata 54, p: 551-9000 Útitaflið (outdoor chessboard),Lækjargata an album and are busy mixing it these Café Victor, Various DJ's, 80's 'n 90's music Smárabíó, Smáralind, p: 564-0000 Yggdrasill, Kárastíg 1, p: 562-4082 days. De Boomkikker, -starts 01:00 -Troubadour Ingvar Also playing is band Ensími. Ensími was formed in 1996 by drum- Saturday, August 9 mer Jón and guitarist Hrafn. Ensími Both Day and Night has released 3 albums and their latest Austurvöllur out door exhibition, Earth from ��������������� was all in English. For their second al- Above. Aerial Photographs by Yann Arthus- ������������������������� Bertrand. bum “BMX,” they worked with producer Day Steve Albini who’s famous for his work Reðursafnið, Phallological Museum, A fine with both Nirvana and the Pixies. En- penis and penis related selection from various mammals. sími has toured a lot in the past years Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum, An exhibition shows and they’ve played with bands and life and work in the years 1950-60. artists such as the Jon Spencer Blues Nýlistasafið, The Living Art Museum,Behind the ice : Heimir Björgúlfsson - Pétur Örn Friðriksson Explosion, Sparta and Ian Brown. - The Icelandic Love Corporation National Gallery of Iceland, Exhibition of selected works by Icelandic artists from the National Gallery's collection. ���������� National and University Library, Exhibition of the ���������� Light Nights, Iðnó founder of the city´s documentation, also, childrens ����� literature, texts and drawings. ������ �� �������� Theatre City Harbour, Summer long Fair � �������� �������� Norræna húsið, Nordic House, The Big Nordic ������ Elephant Show Every Friday and Monday Reykjavik Museum of Photography, The Five ������� ������� ������� ������������� Elements. Photographs and etchings from French- Vietnamese artist Claire Xuan. Ásmundarsafn, Sculpture museum, The Modern Man, works of popular sculptor Ásmundar Sveinsson. Einar Jónsson Sculpture Museum, The works of Iceland´s first modern sculptor. Hafnarhúsið, Reykjavík Art Museum, -10 to 17 -Lobster or Fame Two Decades of Bad Taste Ltd. Also Erró´s War paintings and Insight into international contemporary art in Iceland. Admission 500 ISK. Free on Mondays. Light Nights, now in its 32nd year, Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum, -10 to 17 -New is starting up again. It is probably times in Icelandic Photography. Admission 500 ��������������������������������������� krónur ���������������������������������������� the best place to see Viking dancing, Saga Museum, -10 to 18 -History face to face, chanting of old rhymes, traditional historical figures and major events in Icelandic ���������������������������� history presented in a unique way. Admission 800 wrestling, and what some sources say krónur. ��������������������������������������������� is the scariest ghost story of all time. Gallery i8, -11 to 18 -Works of the contemporary Show starts at 8.30. artists Roni Horn 18 - the reykjavík grapevine - august 8th - august 21st, 2003 august 8th - august 21st, 2003 - the reykjavík grapevine - 19

INTERVIEW

BEHIND THE EYES LISTINGS OF LOVE Handverk og Hönnun, -13 to 17 -Exhibition of On the 9th of August three artists; contemporary and traditional Icelandic art and Eirún Sigurðardóttir, Jóní Jónsdóttir crafts. Traditional Icelandic Sigurjón Ólafsson Sculpture Museum, -14 to and Sigrún Hrólfsdóttir, also known 17 -Portraits and Abstractions as “The Icelandic Love Corporation”, Safn, -14 to 18 -Collection includes both Dancing international and Icelandic contemporary art. Look for their frequent will be opening a new exhibition in The Night Living Arts Museum called “Behind the Kráin 73, Acoustic Blues duet shows Eyes”. Gaukur á Stöng, Band Sixties, admission 1000kr. The Incorporated Love Group started as Grand Rokk, Bands Ensími and 200.000 Naglbítar Celtic Cross, Coverband 3some downstairs and a performance art group of four back troubadour Ómar Hlyns upstairs in ’96 with a happening performed in Vídalín, DJ Andrea Jóns Sirkus, DJ Árni Sveins, gay theme the cellar of the National Theatre. That Prikið, DJ Benni B-Ruff single event wound up becoming a long Coffee shop 11, DJ Blackbird and rather colourful relationship that still Mojito Club, DJ Daddi disko Thorvaldsen bar, DJ Hlynur lasts and does not seem to be anywhere Kaffibarinn,DJ KGayB – Gay Pride theme near ending, although one of the four Café Metz, DJ Margeir members withdrew her partnership in the Amsterdam, DJ Master Café 22, DJ Rally Cross Love Corp. to run her own advertising Kofi Tómasar frænda,DJ Sidekick agency. The other three continued Café Sólon, DJ Svali Unlike some traditions and forms of successfully. The Love Corporation Vegamót, DJ Tommy white art that can be written down and that Glaumbar, DJ Tweek didn’t settle for just events but has made Hverfisbar,DJ Villi way preserved for the ages, traditional various kinds of other art as well. Their Don´t worry, these women are artists. Leikhúskjallarinn, DJ´s Gullfoss and Geysir dancing is something that has to be Café Culture, DJ’s of the house take on various new exhibition is not just a happening Photos: Aldís multicultural music themes. passed on through time by practis- but something much more, a fully blown Spotlight, Gay Pride dance with DJ Fabio White ing it regularly. Traditional Icelandic show where the artists explore the good cooperation; you have other occupations?” Kofi Tómasar frænda,Gay Pride Dance, DJ´s Atli dances seemed likely to become an and Jón Gestur in bad, and the bad in good. The ILC has “There are three of you, all of you “Well, I teach at the Icelandic Nasa, Gay Pride party, DJ Páll Óskar extinct tradition when eight years ago, had exhibitions here and there in Europe, must have different ideas and views so Academy of the Arts, and Sigrún runs the Little Central, Jazz band Rubik’s Cube a group of dancers decided to form and like many Icelandic artists, received how do you combine your thoughts into store “Búðin” on Laugavegur, and that Dubliners, Live music by Rut Reginalds and BB “Sporið”. Ari í Ögri, Troubadour Garðar Garðars more attention abroad than at home. your work and at the same time avoid helps. Recently the larger companies in Café Victor, Various DJ's, 80's 'n 90's music “Sporið” (the Step) is a group of 10 Grapevine popped in at the Living conflicts and their inevitable escalation Iceland have finally taken some interest Prikið, -from 21:00 – 01:00 -karaoke competition couples that dress and dance in tra- De Boomkikker, -starts 01:00 -Troubadour Ingvar Art Museum, met Eirún where she was into fistfights?” in supporting art with grants and now ditional style and perform for natives working hard preparing for the upcoming “We’ve worked together for 7 years see it more as an investment than Sunday, August 10 and tourists alike, as well as dancing exhibition, looked around and asked a now and of course working together can charity. A change of mind for the better, abroad, having chosen countries like Both Day and Night few questions about corporate love and sometimes be difficult, but after all these I must say. For us personally we’re lucky Austurvöllur out door exhibition, Earth from the US, China, Canada and Austria as living art. years we’ve got very used to each other enough to receive a six-month artists Above. Aerial Photographs by Yann Arthus- their dance floor, although it´s most After strutting around the area for a and working together has come very grant from the government and also Bertrand. frequent venues are in Borgarfjörður short while, the interrogation begins: natural to us.” we’ve sold some of our sculpture work to Day and Reykjavík. The accompanying in- Reðursafnið, Phallological Museum, A fine “Looking around we noticed that half the And still Grapevine asks: large Icelandic companies. At least we’re penis and penis related selection from various strument is most often the accordion, exhibition is black and half is white. From “Is this exhibition what you really want to not totally broke. But getting grants is mammals. just as it was in days of yore. The Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum, An exhibition shows dances are introduced and their story life and work in the years 1950-60. Nýlistasafið, The Living Art Museum,Behind told in different languages, including Your eyes see but your brain understands. We want people to the ice : Heimir Björgúlfsson - Pétur Örn Friðriksson English, German and Danish. - The Icelandic Love Corporation make up their own mind on what they see. National Gallery of Iceland, Exhibition of The most popular dance is the weaver, selected works by Icelandic artists from the supposed to portray how clothes are National Gallery's collection. made. The members are all enthusi- what we’ve been taught black represents do, or is it just something you needed to still a major pain in the rectum.” National and University Library, Exhibition of the the bad things in this world and white the do?” penetrating right to the heart of the “About your name The Icelandic Love founder of the city´s documentation, also, childrens asts, but none of them professional literature, texts and drawings. dancers. Their aim is to present the good things, but when we looked around existential dilemma. Corporation, how did that come about?” City Harbour, Summer long Fair dances in their original form. this wasn’t the case, so what are you “Like always this is exactly what we want “When we started we called Norræna húsið, Nordic House, The Big Nordic trying to express here?” says Grapevine, to do for now and that’s how it is for each ourselves “Gjörningaklúbburinn”, which Elephant Show They can be reached through the Reykjavik Museum of Photography, The Five preferring to cling to clichés as this show we have done in the past, always roughly translates as “The Happenings Elements. Photographs and etchings from French- Grapevine Research Department makes everything simpler. exactly what we want to do.” Club”. When we started performing Vietnamese artist Claire Xuan. Ásmundarsafn, Sculpture museum, The “Well, it’s a matter of how things that “But what about the name of the outside Iceland that name simply didn’t Modern Man, works of popular sculptor Ásmundar some people think are bad can actually exhibition, “Behind the Eyes,” has make any sense, so we came up with Sveinsson. mean something good for others, and it anything to do with dreaming?” the Icelandic Love Corporation name. Einar Jónsson Sculpture Museum, The works of Iceland´s first modern sculptor. The Coronation of the other way around. Someone may says Grapevine, closing its eyes and The name has sometimes caused Hafnarhúsið, Reykjavík Art Museum, -10 believe that his way of doing things wandering off into a land where papers silly misunderstandings, some people to 17 -Lobster or Fame Two Decades of Bad Poppea. City Theatre brings good to all and is the right thing write themselves, sponsors grow actually think we’re a “whole lotta love” Taste Ltd. Also Erró´s War paintings and Insight into international contemporary art in Iceland. to do, but while doing this he actually on trees and editorial groupies vie escort service, or something in that Admission 500 ISK. Free on Mondays. From August 15th brings death and destruction. For for favours, while somewhere in the direction.” Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum, -10 to 17 -New times in Icelandic Photography. Admission 500 instance, the idea: “to save the village distance the answer drones: Some discussion then takes krónur we must destroy it”. Basically, seemingly “No not really, your eyes see but place about various happenings by Saga Museum, -10 to 18 -History face to face, good things can bring bad results, and it is your brain that understands and the Love Corporation over the past historical figures and major events in Icelandic history presented in a unique way. Admission 800 seemingly bad things happening may measures, all people understand things years, at parties, weddings and even krónur. sometimes have a very positive result.” differently and that is what we want from in Amsterdam’s Red Light District, but Handverk og Hönnun, -13 to 17 -Exhibition of Grapevine, reflecting bitterly on its the observers, to understand our art by this time Grapevine’s attention is contemporary and traditional Icelandic art and crafts. own internal politics, wonders about their way. That’s why we’re not trying far away, resting in the lap of editorial Sigurjón Ólafsson Sculpture Museum, -14 to to get one message to the people with groupies underneath the sponsorship 17 -Portraits and Abstractions Safn, -14 to 18 -Collection includes both our art, if that is what we wanted to do, tree. It might be the ears that hear, but international and Icelandic contemporary art. we’d write an article in the paper. Instead it is the mind that does the measuring Sigurjón Ólafsson Sculpture Museum, -starts we want people make up their own mind and the understanding. Hence, the rest 17:30 -Schubert Concerts: Hlíf Sigurjónsdóttir violin, Guðrún Þórarinsdóttir viola, Robert la Rue The Reykjavik summer opera was on what they see, understand it in their of the conversation goes unrecorded, cello, Þórir Jóhannsson double-bass and Adrienne formed in January 2002 with the way.” and it is up to one and all to form his or Kim piano. aim of producing one opera every Snapping back to attention, her own impression of the works of the Light Nights Summer Theatre, -starts at 20:30 - Real authentic Icelandic show performed in English, summer, as well as two smaller pro- Grapevine now asks about a subject ILC. including the most thrilling ghost story ever told; ductions in wintertime. Its goal is to close to its heart; money and grants. Jón Oddur & Jón Snær The Deacon of Myrká make the art form relevant to modern “Do you make a living out of this, or do Night theatre and modern audiences with- Hallgrímskirkja Church, 20:00 Concert (Bach, Gillou, Lemmens, Lizt) out moving the story in space or time. Dubliners, Troubadour Ingvar Valgeirs The performers are chosen by audi- tion, hence giving everyone an equal Monday, August 11 opportunity for participation while try- Both Day and Night ing to get the best young performers Austurvöllur out door exhibition, Earth from Above. Aerial Photographs by Yann Arthus- for each production. Bertrand. This summers production is Day L´incoronazione di Poppea, or the Reðursafnið, Phallological Museum, A fine Coronation of Poppea, which was penis and penis related selection from various mammals. the first opera whose characters Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum, An exhibition shows were historical figures. It was written life and work in the years 1950-60. by Claudio Monteverdi and was first National Gallery of Iceland, Exhibition of selected works by Icelandic artists from the produced in Venice in 1643. Its National Gallery's collection. leading protagonists are the Emperor National and University Library, Exhibition of the founder of the city´s documentation, also, childrens Nero and his lover Poppea, and the literature, texts and drawings. story includes betrayal, murder, City Harbour, Summer long Fair love and hate, in short everything Norræna húsið, Nordic House, The Big Nordic Elephant Show necessary to make a good opera. It Reykjavik Museum of Photography, The Five will be performed in Italian, but the Elements. Photographs and etchings from French- lyrics will be projected on a screen Vietnamese artist Claire Xuan. Ásmundarsafn, Sculpture museum, The in both Icelandic and English. The Modern Man, works of popular sculptor Ásmundar opera is performed by a cast of Sveinsson. 13, supported by a six -piece band, Einar Jónsson Sculpture Museum, The works of Iceland´s first modern sculptor. including a lute player 20 - the reykjavík grapevine - august 8th - august 21st, 2003 august 8th - august 21st, 2003 - the reykjavík grapevine - 21

SPORTS

ICELAND FOOTBALL A COMPARATIVE ANALYSIS LISTINGS Years that end in odd numbers Hafnarhúsið, Reykjavík Art Museum, -10 hold barren summers for football to 17 -Lobster or Fame Two Decades of Bad Brimkló Taste Ltd. Also Erró´s War paintings and Insight addicts in most of the civilized world into international contemporary art in Iceland. with no World Cup or even a European Admission 500 ISK. Free on Mondays. Nasa Nightclub Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum, -10 to 17 -New Championship to ease the pain of times in Icelandic Photography. Admission 500 seasons end. Idle transfer gossip Friday August 15th krónur dominates the back pages instead of Saga Museum, -10 to 18 -History face to face, historical figures and major events in Icelandic actual goals and results and if there is a history presented in a unique way. Admission 800 game on the telly it’s probably a rerun. Is krónur. Light Nights Summer Theatre, -starts at 20:30 - it perhaps time to get a life? Real authentic Icelandic show performed in English, Fear not. There are always the including the most thrilling ghost story ever told; barbaric Nordic countries that insist (or The Deacon of Myrká rather the weather insists for them) on Night Café Culture, Jazz night having the football season during the Dubliners, Troubadour Ingi pabbi summer. Therefore, with a long summer holiday in, say, Iceland, you can finally Tuesday, August 12 make football a year-long obsession. Both Day and Night One problem remains, however, what Austurvöllur out door exhibition, Earth from to do with all those unpronounceable Above. Aerial Photographs by Yann Arthus- Bertrand. names and strange initials? Well, in the Day long tradition of teaching Americans Reðursafnið, Phallological Museum, A fine math by using baseball scores (all those penis and penis related selection from various Reunions are a common event in the mammals. heartfelt Hollywood movies don’t lie, do music industry, and that also goes for Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum, An exhibition shows they?) I will now try to teach Icelandic life and work in the years 1950-60. When he came to in the hospital, he found he had lost his ability to solve differential Iceland. One of the bands currently football by using examples of European equations. Sigurjón Ólafsson Sculpture Museum, going down that path is Brimkló, the Concerts: Hlíf Sigurjónsdóttir violin, Robert la Rue clubs that bear an uncanny resemblance Photos: Árni Torfason most popular pop band in Iceland in cello and Adrienne Kim piano. to their Icelandic counterparts. National Gallery of Iceland, Exhibition of the late 70’s. For middle aged alcohol Let’s start with the current most of the season but they won’t take now mostly good at being hardly noticed selected works by Icelandic artists from the thirsty Icelanders this is great news, National Gallery's collection. champions, KR. They are, without a home the trophy on the final day. in the middle of the table and in danger but the younger or the more sober National and University Library, Exhibition of the doubt, the Manchester United of Iceland. An hour’s drive from the capital is of being overtaken by the other, less founder of the city´s documentation, also, childrens may not share their enthusiasm. literature, texts and drawings. Both are by far the richest in the land and Grindavík, who have evolved from a famous, team of the city / town. Anyway, the members of Brimkló City Harbour, Summer long Fair draw the largest group of supporters small town team in the lower divisions The Westman Islands have a lot in Norræna húsið, Nordic House, The Big Nordic know a trick or two about how to (2,000 and 65,000 respectively). to the Chelsea of Iceland. First they common with Sicily. Both are south of Elephant Show entertain a crowd and their infamous Reykjavik Museum of Photography, The Five Comparisons do not end there, however. were, along with ÍBV, the masters of the mainland and the inhabitants don´t singer Björgvin Halldórsson has even Elements. Photographs and etchings from French- Both had legendary sides in the sixties, the relegation battle (i.e. the team that necessarily follow the law of the land too Vietnamese artist Claire Xuan. performed on one occasion with Rod only to fall into obscurity and failure for sent Fylkir down) but in recent years strictly. Perhaps Roskilde in Denmark Ásmundarsafn, Sculpture museum, The Stewart. This was back in the 80’s Modern Man, works of popular sculptor Ásmundar decades. While United waited 26 years have always been near the top without is a better comparison, because of and the singers sung a few of Rod’s Sveinsson. for the title, KR waited 31, years filled actually being good enough to take the the annual music and drinking festival Einar Jónsson Sculpture Museum, The works of numbers together, an event famous in with nasty jokes from fans of opposing title – just like Chelsea. Not to mention – although the bands in Roskilde are Iceland´s first modern sculptor. Iceland at least. Hafnarhúsið, Reykjavík Art Museum, -10 teams. Since they finally broke the ice that being the closest town to the Blue probably a bit edgier. The Danish to 17 -Lobster or Fame Two Decades of Bad they’ve both been the teams to beat in Lagoon, they have the same knack of national team are probably the most like Taste Ltd. Also Erró´s War paintings and Insight into international contemporary art in Iceland. their respective countries. They even attracting foreigners that Chelsea does. Westman Island team ÍBV, both are kind Admission 500 ISK. Free on Mondays. mirrored each other in 1999 both This season they even have Lee Sharpe of ligeglad (Danish slang for charmingly Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum, -10 to 17 -New winning the treble. The only difference playing for them. careless or annoyingly irresponsible, times in Icelandic Photography. Admission 500 Hey everybody, where krónur was that KR’s treble didn’t include a The Arsenal of Iceland would have take your pick) yet able to pull up their Saga Museum, -10 to 18 -History face to face, European cup. to be KA from the beautiful northern shorts and win things from time to time. did painting go? historical figures and major events in Icelandic Then there is Fylkir. They used to town of Akureyri. Not only did both win The destinies of Reykjavík clubs history presented in a unique way. Admission 800 krónur. be the relegation specialists but have the championship in dramatic fashion in Fram and Valur have been quite similar Several galleries in Reykjavik currently Handverk og Hönnun, -13 to 17 -Exhibition of recently transformed themselves to 1989 but also they have by far the most recently. An annual duel for the title in the contemporary and traditional Icelandic art and display what can be understood as a crafts. the Neverkusen, sorry Leverkusen, of intelligent and literate supporters (Nick eighties has transformed into an annual response to the crisis in painting, as it Sigurjón Ólafsson Sculpture Museum, -14 to Iceland. They may be top of the league Hornby and me, that is). battle to avoid the drop. A state of affairs was formulated by conceptual artists 17 -Portraits and Abstractions ÍA from Akranes strangely parallel to teams from another Undisclosed location, Laufey Jónsdóttir, mother in 1970s. These exhibitions present of Grapevines Co-editor is 38 years old today. are a mixture of city, Liverpool and Everton, except contemporary art in search of alterna- Night AC Milan and Ajax for the Beatles. Hljómar, The Icelandic tives to the traditional notion of visual Prikið, Guest DJ Amsterdam. All Beatles, are from Keflavík – chances arts, thereby stretching and testing Dubliners, Troubadour Ingi pabbi three clubs seemed are you’re about to land there if you’re the limits of the term. almost invincible in reading this aboard a plane. They are Wednesday, August 13 the mid-nineties currently spending a rare year outside Both Day and Night but have since the top flight but are expected to be Austurvöllur out door exhibition, Earth from Above. Aerial Photographs by Yann Arthus- faded somewhat, back soon. Bertrand. although still Then there are this years minnows, Annual Fair Day remaining serious Þróttur. Newly promoted and with the Reðursafnið, Phallological Museum, A fine penis and penis related selection from various contenders. And most successful coach in the Premier Reykjavik’s harbour mammals. just like Ajax they league, they have been frequently Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum, An exhibition shows have what seems promoted to the top flight over the August 2003 life and work in the years 1950-60. Nýlistasafið, The Living Art Museum,Behind like a never-ending last fifty years – but they never seem the ice : Heimir Björgúlfsson - Pétur Örn Friðriksson production line of to last long. Sunderland perhaps? And - The Icelandic Love Corporation young talent. that’s it as the Icelandic premiership only National Gallery of Iceland, Exhibition of selected works by Icelandic artists from the FH have a thing features ten teams. Well, it’s not like the National Gallery's collection. or two in common summer is long here. As for the Icelandic National and University Library, Exhibition of the founder of the city´s documentation, also, childrens with Aston Villa, national team, did I mention we managed literature, texts and drawings. both were very a draw against the world champions City Harbour, Summer long Fair The boys had always sneered at him when he told them he had good at finishing once? Just don’t mention Scotland … Norræna húsið, Nordic House, The Big Nordic wanted to become a ballet dancer. Elephant Show second a decade Reykjavik Museum of Photography, The Five or so ago but are Ásgeir H Ingólfsson Elements. Photographs and etchings from French- Vietnamese artist Claire Xuan. Ásmundarsafn, Sculpture museum, The Modern Man, works of popular sculptor Ásmundar Sveinsson. After several bankruptcies and major Einar Jónsson Sculpture Museum, The works of Iceland´s first modern sculptor. financial disasters the overwhelm- Hafnarhúsið, Reykjavík Art Museum, -10 ingly optimistic habitants of town Hver- to 17 -Lobster or Fame Two Decades of Bad Taste Ltd. Also Erró´s War paintings and Insight agerði realised that having a fair all into international contemporary art in Iceland. year was not a profitable business to Admission 500 ISK. Free on Mondays. run, especially not in a small town with Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum, -10 to 17 -New times in Icelandic Photography. Admission 500 more greenhouses than real houses. krónur When discovering this all the fair equip- Saga Museum, -10 to 18 -History face to face, ment was sold abroad except for the historical figures and major events in Icelandic history presented in a unique way. Admission 800 candyfloss machine, which still serves krónur. it’s purpose once a year on the 17th Handverk og Hönnun, -13 to 17 -Exhibition of contemporary and traditional Icelandic art and of June, making children sticky and crafts. smiley. To fill the gap during the sunny Sigurjón Ólafsson Sculpture Museum, -14 to summer days created by the absence 17 -Portraits and Abstractions Safn, -14 to 18 -Collection includes both of the Hveragerði fair someone (who international and Icelandic contemporary art. probably visited Hveragerði at least Admission 200 krónur once in the past) started to import Undicloed location, The Sister of Grapevines Production director turns 29. Happy Birthday a small scale fair during the summer Berglind months with great success and now Night for the 11th summer in a row the fair is Prikið, DJ Jón Mýrdal open for all willing to pay for the ride. Sirkus, Jazz DJ´s ( Kári and KGB ) Kaffibarinn,Red wine night, surprise DJ Dubliners, Troubadour Bjarni Tryggva 20 - the reykjavík grapevine - august 8th - august 21st, 2003 august 8th - august 21st, 2003 - the reykjavík grapevine - 21

EVENTS

CARVING OUT LISTINGS THE TRUTH Thursday, August 14 Teddi is a hearty looking 60 Both Day and Night Árbæjarsafn Folk Mu- something, a former firefighter Austurvöllur out door exhibition, Earth from and sailor, He is also a woodcarver, Above. Aerial Photographs by Yann Arthus- and says the reason he originally took Bertrand. seum. up woodcarving was all the dead time Day June 1st to August 31st. Hallgrímskirkja Church, 12:00 Concert, Natalie between shifts at the fire station. He has Chow & Katalin Lörincz long since retired from that profession, Reðursafnið, Phallological Museum, A fine and after he gave up drinking around 15 penis and penis related selection from various mammals. years ago, he has still more time on his Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum, An exhibition shows hands to concentrate on his work. He life and work in the years 1950-60. Nýlistasafið, The Living Art Museum,Behind has met with considerable success, and the ice : Heimir Björgúlfsson - Pétur Örn Friðriksson has had exhibitions in Germany, Spain - The Icelandic Love Corporation and the Faeroes. He greets us with a firm National Gallery of Iceland, Exhibition of selected works by Icelandic artists from the handshake and motions us inside. I am in National Gallery's collection. A Day in the Life of Reykvikians. the company of our art correspondent, National and University Library, Exhibition of the The 50´s. the Czech Beata, and I ask Teddi founder of the city´s documentation, also, childrens The exhibition follows a day in the life literature, texts and drawings. whether he can explain things to us in City Harbour, Summer long Fair of 6 Reykvikians of different ages in the English. “Yes,” he says, and rambles on Norræna húsið, Nordic House, The Big Nordic years between 1950 and 1960. Visi- in Icelandic. I ask him whether we can Elephant Show Reykjavik Museum of Photography, The Five tors get to follow them from morning touch the items on display. “Of course,” Elements. Photographs and etchings from French- to evening, and also to visit the home he says. “Art is like a beautiful woman, Vietnamese artist Claire Xuan. of a six person family in 1958, where Ásmundarsafn, Sculpture museum, The you should be allowed to touch.” Ah, if Modern Man, works of popular sculptor Ásmundar the atmosphere has been authentically only it were so, Teddi, if only it were so. Sveinsson. reproduced. There is also an exhibi- Teddi shows us his works (discussed Thinking about getting his hands on some sculpture, perhaps? Einar Jónsson Sculpture Museum, The works of tion about Lárus Sigurbjörnsson, the Photos: Aldís Iceland´s first modern sculptor. below), including a piece crafted from a Hafnarhúsið, Reykjavík Art Museum, -10 man who built the museum. bit of the old harbour, built with Marshall and oak, driftwood from Russia and dragging. According to Teddi’s words, to 17 -Lobster or Fame Two Decades of Bad Museum opening hours: plan Aid money after the war. Finally, he African mahogany, each piece having however, the most difficult task is the Taste Ltd. Also Erró´s War paintings and Insight In June, July and August the museum is into international contemporary art in Iceland. shows us a piece that is four blocks of its individual background and history. interpretation and naming of the finished Admission 500 ISK. Free on Mondays. open Tuesday to Friday 10:00 to 17: marble with teeth attached on one end, Some come from an old dismantled piece. Balancing on the verge between Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum, -10 to 17 -New 00, and 10:00 to 18:00 at weekends. times in Icelandic Photography. Admission 500 the one work that is not made out of pier, others were found on the shore, a particular form and abstraction, the krónur On Mondays the farm and church of Ár- wood. He tells me it is built in honour presented to the artist by friends and sculptures draw on the imagination Saga Museum, -10 to 18 -History face to face, bær on the museum site are open 11: of insurance salesmen, cold on the acquaintances or transported from of individual viewers and, just like the historical figures and major events in Icelandic 00 to 16:00. At other times of year history presented in a unique way. Admission 800 outside, hollow within. Every once in a remote places all over the world. The famed mark on the wall, trigger off krónur. the museum is open by arrangement. while, he makes a piece with a message past often shows itself in the altered images and associations. Some of the Handverk og Hönnun, -13 to 17 -Exhibition of Outside the summer season, guided in that vein, although neither his wife nor quality of the material, which becomes sculptures have amorphous shapes contemporary and traditional Icelandic art and tours of the museum are scheduled crafts. friends understand why he would want incorporated into the finished work. that seem to follow the outlines of tree Sigurjón Ólafsson Sculpture Museum, -14 to on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays to cause trouble. The path of the rebel 17 -Portraits and Abstractions at 13:00. Safn, -14 to 18 -Collection includes both is a lonely one. “Go get them, boy,” he “Art is like a beautiful woman, you international and Icelandic contemporary art. Guided tours for groups by arrange- shouts after me as I leave. I will, Teddi, Admission 200 krónur ment. I will. Meanwhile, art is too important to should be allowed to touch it.” Night be left to the critics, and will presently be Amsterdam, Band Buff With all due respect to a piece of rings and the wood’s natural structure, Gaukur á Stöng, Band TUBE (celebrating a record turned over to the artists: release) Insight - International The editor timber laden with history, the artist far although they are the result of a laid-out De Boomkikker, Bands Dys and Ríkið from handles the raw material with kid plan and meticulous work. These shapes Hverfisbar,Coverband Bítlarnir Glaumbar, DJ Atli Contemporary Art in Exploring the potential of wood gloves - he mercilessly cuts it to pieces, evoke the images of embryos, amoebae, Prikið, DJ Gísli Galdur Wood and timber is for obvious reasons glues it back together, attacks it with underwater life of the driftwood’s past Café Sólon, DJ Tommi White Iceland. Hafnarhús not the most common sight in Iceland. a chisel, sandblasts it, often working and processes concealed from the Sirkus, DJ Yamaho Little Central, Jazz band Steipa Teddi’s workshop and exhibition gallery on several pieces at the same time human eye and rational mind in general. Dubliners, Troubadour Bjarni Tryggva Until September 7th comes therefore as a shock to the just to get a relief from the uniform A work of a different kind is a piece Kráin 73, Troubadour Ingvar Valgeirs barren-land accustomed eye, reminding physical strain. Yet he actually manages the artist is especially fond of, a wall Café Culture, Þ.E.L. English traditional music There are gems of contemporary art played by a band of 6. the visitor of the many faces the material to uncover the hidden qualities of the sculpture consisting of three corroded scattered all over Iceland, hiding in can adopt. material and expose its full potential. He planks of timber that suddenly seem households the way Saga manuscripts Friday, August 15 Although the artist also works with combines the different structures and to have spread like the wings of an were until a certain Árni Magnússon Both Day and Night metal cast, the majority of sculptures the wood’s natural colours to achieve altarpiece. Other sculptures are vertical, dragged them out of the farmers’ Austurvöllur out door exhibition, Earth from are from wood in all its variety of type the desired expression, and the result is clearly reminiscent of totems or worship Above. Aerial Photographs by Yann Arthus- straw beds and took them to Copen- and origin. There is Icelandic birch often a surprising discovery of a quality monuments. One of them is indeed Bertrand. hagen for better heating - or at least in that had been lying unnoticed. named ‘Adoption of Christianity’ and on Day some of them. Reðursafnið, Phallological Museum, A fine Occasionally the material refuses to closer inspection the upper part of the penis and penis related selection from various give in to the artist’s intentions making sculpture takes on the shape of a Viking mammals. Reykjavik City Gallery draws its own contribution to the work instead. helmet, a cardinal’s hat or even a Ku Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum, An exhibition shows together the best bits from the life and work in the years 1950-60. A huge nail, originally meant as a mere Klux Klan hood, in this way comprising private collections of the Icelandic Nýlistasafið, The Living Art Museum,Behind tool to split a large piece of wood, gets all the different aspects of the notion. the ice : Heimir Björgúlfsson - Pétur Örn Friðriksson artists Ragna Róbertsdóttir, stuck in the plank and becomes a part These sculptures combine wood, metal - The Icelandic Love Corporation Ingólfur Arnarsson and Helgi Þorgils National Gallery of Iceland, Exhibition of of the sculpture - and, frankly, the nail is and brick and the artist mentions selected works by Icelandic artists from the Friðjónsson as well as works from the very finishing touch the work needed. the influence of the French sculptor National Gallery's collection. its own collection and those owned National and University Library, Exhibition of the In another sculpture a metal component Constantin Brancusi and his approach to by the National Gallery of Iceland. founder of the city´s documentation, also, childrens dissolves its acids into the wood, form and material. literature, texts and drawings. Most of the artists featured are in staining it in patterns that add further Teddi’s workshop seems to be a place City Harbour, Summer long Fair some way connected to Iceland and Norræna húsið, Nordic House, The Big Nordic emphasis to the shape of the sculpture. so typical for the Icelandic art scene - a its art scene, as some of the works Elephant Show Thus the creative process seems to be a place where the artist’s passion for his Reykjavik Museum of Photography, The Five actually show. One such work is the collaboration between the artist and the work totally outweighs any fame hunting Elements. Photographs and etchings from French- drawing by Hamish Fulton; one of his Vietnamese artist Claire Xuan. material, with the artist having a major urges. Let us just hope that the artist’s Ásmundarsafn, Sculpture museum, The ‘outlines’ series; this time the outlines say, yet not a veto right. fiery enthusiasm will not set the whole Modern Man, works of popular sculptor Ásmundar are of stones the artist had gathered Sveinsson. The making of a sculpture is, of place ablaze on 16th August. during his seven-day camping trip in Einar Jónsson Sculpture Museum, The works of course, physically demanding and Iceland´s first modern sculptor. the Icelandic wilderness. Donald Judd requires extensive sawing, lifting and Beata Rödlingova Hafnarhúsið, Reykjavík Art Museum, -10 presents his geometrical composition to 17 -Lobster or Fame Two Decades of Bad Taste Ltd. Also Erró´s War paintings and Insight woodcuts, while Dieter Roth is into international contemporary art in Iceland. represented by intaglio graphics, all Admission 500 ISK. Free on Mondays. Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum, -10 to 17 -New of which are artist’s proof - the kind of times in Icelandic Photography. Admission 500 product that is most of the time found krónur in the private collections of friends and Saga Museum, -10 to 18 -History face to face, historical figures and major events in Icelandic family only. The exhibition also displays history presented in a unique way. Admission 800 copies of the Icelandic newspapers krónur. from 1963 and 1964, which Roth Handverk og Hönnun, -13 to 17 -Exhibition of contemporary and traditional Icelandic art and illustrated. A direct reference to the crafts. Icelandic landscape are the works by Sigurjón Ólafsson Sculpture Museum, -14 to 17 -Portraits and Abstractions American Roni Horn and, in particular, Safn, -14 to 18 -Collection includes both Douwe Jan Bakker’s visual dictionary international and Icelandic contemporary art. of Icelandic mountains, cliffs and Admission 200 krónur Light Nights Summer Theatre, -starts at 20:30 - plateaus - a set of priceless black and Real authentic Icelandic show performed in English, white photographs, both as a work of including the most thrilling ghost story ever told; art and a guide for the bewildered non- The Deacon of Myrká Icelandic outdoors tourist. Night Ari í Ögri, Acoustic duet Although it may seem strange to have Nasa, Band Brimkló with a comeback to travel all the way to Iceland to see Gaukur á Stöng, Band Sixties, admission 1000kr. contemporary international art, in Dubliners, Band Tvö dónalega haust Celtic Cross, Coverband Spilafíklar downstairs this case it is simply necessary - and and troubadour Garðar Garðars upstairs definitely worth the journey. Amsterdam, Coverband Stóri Björn Hverfisbar,DJ Benni Open Mon - Sun 11 am - 5 pm Thorvaldsen bar, DJ Daddi Disco 22 - the reykjavík grapevine - august 8th - august 21st, 2003 august 8th - august 21st, 2003 - the reykjavík grapevine - 23

NIGHTLIFE

BOOKS VS. BEER LISTINGS Our story begins in a dusty library is perfect. Full Mojito Club, DJ Hlynur in a small town in the Icelandic of fire she tears Sirkus, DJ Kári Bands Botnleðja & Café Metz, DJ Palli Steinars lowlands. A young lass with brown herself away from Kofi Tómasar frænda,DJ Sidekick pigtails sits amidst a pile of books so her reflection and Kaffibarinn,DJ Svali Singapore Sling Kaffibarinn,DJ Yamaho high the top of her head is barely visible heads back into Glaumbar, DJ Þór Bæring as she cuddles around a thick tome the uncertainty Sirkus Prikið, DJ´s Snake ‘n Tiger with yellowing pages. However, her of the night. Café Culture, DJ’s of the house take on various Saturday August 16th multicultural music themes face is turning blue as she made the Searching for Little Central, Jazz band Steipa crucial mistake of sitting down in front another island. Grand Rokk, Series of Rock/Hardcore Concerts starting at 22:00, bands: Total fucking Destruction of the shelf where the books about the When the girl (USA), Forgarður Helvítis(ICE), The Motherfucking Ice People and the Red Series are kept comes to the day Clash (USA), KIMONO (ICE) and Angermeans (ICE). (editorial note: these are long series of after, life doesn’t Admission 200kr Kráin 73, The Blues Express, a well known 5 romantic novels sold in every kiosk and seem quite as piece band finally playing live again read by every woman in the country at magical as the Leikhúskjallarinn, The ultimate party all night with The predators of the night take a break from their duties. some point.) As the day wears on red night before. Her one of Iceland’s top disco party DJ´s “Johnny Dee,” Photo: Aldís or so they say faced farm ladies have been gathering heart struggles De Boomkikker, Troubadour Óskar Einarsson around her in increasing numbers in her chest as she sits up and looks The beginning: Here characters Café Victor, Various DJ's, 80's 'n 90's music and have now nearly succeeded in around. At first she doesn’t recognize are introduced and the tone is set, in smothering her to death. But still the her surroundings, but despair turns literature as well as (night) life. It soon Saturday, August 16 girl barely notices her lack of oxygen or into joy as she realises she’s in her own becomes apparent whether the stage Both Day and Night Kráin 73, Art exhibition a grand opening in the the surprised stares of other patrons as room, alone. This time she got lucky. is set for comedy or tragedy, whether garden they bump into the child. Because she At that same moment, ten years dramatis personae become severely Austurvöllur out door exhibition, Earth from isn’t in the library, but in another country, ago, the little girl is dragged back into inebriated as the night wears on or order Above. Aerial Photographs by Yann Arthus- Bertrand. in another century. Where others believe her surroundings as someone closes a taxi home within half an hour. The band Botnleðja is well established Day themselves to be treading on a moss her book and in front of her stands The middle: The plot is well on the music scene and has released Hallgrímskirkja Church, 12:00 Steingrímur green carpet she finds herself among her mother, hands on her hips, having underway and the party has begun. 5 albums over their eight year career. Þórhallsson plays organ violent waves beating her to and fro just delivered her from seeming certain Twists develop, excitement too if the The three members have experienced Reðursafnið, Phallological Museum, A fine penis and penis related selection from various in a rugged wooden boat desperately death at the hands of the Cyclops. That setting is good, and sometimes even a lot in their days as musicians and mammals. searching for land. She is not little any time, she got lucky too. romance. have toured with both Blur and Sparta. Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum, An exhibition shows Botnleðja even had an English name life and work in the years 1950-60. more, or even a girl, but a large and It’s strange how little a life can The end: In most books things Nýlistasafið, The Living Art Museum,Behind muscular fully grown man by the name change in ten years. At first glance turn out well and everyone deserving for a while, but you can now refer to the ice : Heimir Björgúlfsson - Pétur Örn Friðriksson of Odysseus, ready for battle as the there seems to be a world of difference leaves the stage happily, whether they them as the Band Botnleðja Formerly - The Icelandic Love Corporation National Gallery of Iceland, Exhibition of behinds of farmer’s ladies surround her between holding a library card and a VIP have finally found the love of their life Known as Silt Formerly Known as selected works by Icelandic artists from the menacingly like Cyclopes. card for a nightclub, but is the difference or have been saved from certain death. Botnleðja. Their latest album “Icelandic National Gallery's collection. Ten years later a somewhat older really that great? The same cannot be guaranteed at the National Park” was out this spring National and University Library, Exhibition of the founder of the city´s documentation, also, childrens girl finds herself in a sweaty bar in The average modern individual wrong end of a night of boozing. Death and has received good reviews and literature, texts and drawings. the centre of Reykjavík as the room uses every opportunity the cover even features a naked guy, City Harbour, Summer long Fair perhaps their contribution to gender Norræna húsið, Nordic House, The Big Nordic hobbles back and forth. The cause of to escape reality with Elephant Show the floors unsteadiness can be traced entertainment and as long She is not little any more, equality. Reykjavik Museum of Photography, The Five to a considerable number of bottles as he’s not bored he thinks Also on tonight is Singapore Sling who Elements. Photographs and etchings from French- or even a girl, but a large, Vietnamese artist Claire Xuan. and glasses with half melted ice cubes he’s happy. There are two just came back home from their US Ásmundarsafn, Sculpture museum, The occupying a nearby table. She looks very different means to tour and are ready to rock. The band Modern Man, works of popular sculptor Ásmundar around, but instead of seeing a sweat achieve such “happiness.” muscular fully grown man. was formed in the last year of the mil- Sveinsson. Einar Jónsson Sculpture Museum, The works of drenched, bleary eyed mob shouting One is the reading of lennium and is a reminder of what true Iceland´s first modern sculptor. and wriggling without any sense of good books, which beauty Rock n’ Roll is and should be, attitude Hafnarhúsið, Reykjavík Art Museum, -10 (by inebriation) will most likely have and overdrive mixed with a few bottles to 17 -Lobster or Fame Two Decades of Bad tone or rhythm, she sees wondrous queens keep telling us that, along with Taste Ltd. Also Erró´s War paintings and Insight creatures keeping pace in an enchanted travelling and looking after children, conquered love as the leading man of Jack Daniels, no complications, just into international contemporary art in Iceland. dance in between fierce warriors who is the road to earthly bliss. The other lies passed out on the couch drooling Rock ‘n Roll. Admission 500 ISK. Free on Mondays. Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum, -10 to 17 -New have no weapons but their bare hands, one is alcohol. The latter seems to be in the damsels lap, or the leading lady It’s arguable who’s backing whom times in Icelandic Photography. Admission 500 and she, just like the other princesses preferred, and in fact to be the major stands bent over a toilet bowl as a rather tonight and the only way to settle krónur present, must defend herself as best pastime of young Icelanders today. unimpressed prince charming looks on. that argument is to show up. Starts Saga Museum, -10 to 18 -History face to face, historical figures and major events in Icelandic she can. On the verge of losing her When you read a book you become The event of the weekend can follow at 21:30 history presented in a unique way. Admission 800 battle with the floor, she goes into the the main character, be it Julius Caesar a person like a bad dream for many krónur. bathroom and holds her breath as she or Minnie Mouse, and the characters´ weeks afterwards, and most people Handverk og Hönnun, -13 to 17 -Exhibition of contemporary and traditional Icelandic art and looks in the mirror. Through the fog of doings become yours. Sometimes you know all too well the determination to crafts. her red eyes she sees in the mirror a might not condone the actions, or even never again drink anything stronger Skólavörðustígur 14, -14 - 22 -Nordic Architecture as Resource. Examples from all the princess, a beauty queen, a sex bomb. like the character, but still you keep on than herbal tea the morning after. It is Summer Exhibition Nordic Countries. All her previous thoughts of nose jobs or reading. rarely the case among readers that they Sigurjón Ólafsson Sculpture Museum, -14 to breast implants are thrown to the wind, When you go out and consume resolve never to go past Donald Duck National Gallery of 17 -Portraits and Abstractions Safn, -14 to 18 -Collection includes both she has no need for such things. She alcohol a process begins that you again after a hard nights Dostoevski, nor international and Icelandic contemporary art. have little control over. Yet is there a suggested cure for them as Iceland Admission 200 krónur you participate, and even there is for alcoholics. May 24th - August 31st Night become a person that Our conclusion must be that reading Leikhúskjallarinn, Band Jagúar, jazz, funk & groove you don’t necessarily like, is a far more convenient, cheaper and Gaukur á Stöng, Band SSól, admission 1000kr nor do those around you. safer way to escape this world that we Dubliners, Band Tvö dónalega haust dare not look in the eye. The same Grand Rokk, Bands Brain Police, Dark Harvest This character is usually and Dr. Spock loud, arrogant, grovelling can be said of TV, computer games Celtic Cross, Coverband Spilafíklar downstairs or disagreeable in some and other methods we use to enter and troubadour Garðar Garðars upstairs Amsterdam, Coverband Stóri Björn other way. Nonetheless it´s the virtual world we desire. Why then, Hverfisbar,DJ Atli partycop bottoms up and the game is alcohol consumption so much more Thorvaldsen bar, DJ Daddi Disco continued the day after or popular? Is it really that much more fun? Mojito Club, DJ Hlynur Café Metz, DJ Margeir and Jóel Pálsson plays the following weekend. Both (Editorial note: No, but it does involve the sax the book and the night out the slight possibility of having sex, which Kofi Tómasar frænda,DJ Sidekick have a beginning, a middle a night of Grand Theft Auto: Vice City Café Sólon, DJ Svali Walking through the National Gallery Glaumbar, DJ Þór Bæring And on the search went for the land of the blind... and an end, but these tend sadly does not often lead to.) of Iceland this summer is like leafing Prikið, DJ´s Daði and Jöri to vary. Beggó Sirkus, DJ´s KGB and Kári inside and the bands through a book on 20th century Icelan- Botnleðja and Singapore Sling in the yard dic art. The summer exhibition maps Café Culture, DJ’s of the house take on various multicultural music themes the development of modern Icelandic Ari í Ögri, Southern Breeze. Purse band art, presenting the works by more than Kráin 73, The Blues Express, a well known 5 fifty artists. Each name is a dictionary piece band finally playing live again De Boomkikker, Troubadour Óskar Einarsson entry that opens up a different chapter Café Victor, Various DJ's, 80's 'n 90's music in the history of Icelandic art. The em- Kaffibarinn,-starts 22:00 -New icon records phasis is on painting. Chronologically arranged, the exhibition leads us from Sunday, August 17 the first modern landscapes by Thor- Both Day and Night Austurvöllur out door exhibition, Earth from lákur B. Thorláksson and paintings by Above. Aerial Photographs by Yann Arthus- Kjarval, Schevig and Ásgrímur Jónsson Bertrand. to expressionism and abstract art Day at the middle of the century. By the Reðursafnið, Phallological Museum, A fine penis and penis related selection from various 1960s this style of painting gave way mammals. to new movements such as return to Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum, An exhibition shows life and work in the years 1950-60. realism or op art inspired geometrical Nýlistasafið, The Living Art Museum,Behind abstraction. The last part of the exhibi- the ice : Heimir Björgúlfsson - Pétur Örn Friðriksson tion focuses on the varied tendencies - The Icelandic Love Corporation National Gallery of Iceland, Exhibition of of today and works by contemporary selected works by Icelandic artists from the young artists. National Gallery's collection. Open Tues-Sun 11-17, admission ISK National and University Library, Exhibition of the founder of the city´s documentation, also, childrens 400, free admission on Wednesdays literature, texts and drawings. City Harbour, Summer long Fair Norræna húsið, Nordic House, The Big Nordic Elephant Show 22 - the reykjavík grapevine - august 8th - august 21st, 2003 august 8th - august 21st, 2003 - the reykjavík grapevine - 23

FROM THE UNDERGROUND

LISTINGS FREE THINKERS Reykjavik Museum of Photography, The Five Elements. Photographs and etchings from French- Vietnamese artist Claire Xuan. Dys and Ríkið, Ásmundarsafn, Sculpture museum, The Modern Man, works of popular sculptor Ásmundar Sveinsson. De Boomkikker Einar Jónsson Sculpture Museum, The works of Iceland´s first modern sculptor. August 14th and 21st Hafnarhúsið, Reykjavík Art Museum, -10 to 17 -Lobster or Fame Two Decades of Bad Taste Ltd. Also Erró´s War paintings and Insight into international contemporary art in Iceland. Admission 500 ISK. Free on Mondays. Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum, -10 to 17 -New times in Icelandic Photography. Admission 500 krónur Saga Museum, -10 to 18 -History face to face, historical figures and major events in Icelandic For those who have been searching history presented in a unique way. Admission 800 for the legendary Icelandic music krónur. Handverk og Hönnun, -13 to 17 -Exhibition of scene and so far failed to find it, the contemporary and traditional Icelandic art and Boomkikker might be a place to start. crafts. The location previously housed a strip Skólavörðustígur 14, -14 - 22 -Nordic Architecture as Resource. Examples from all the bar, but is now run by some flying Nordic Countries. Dutchmen who are resolved to turn Sigurjón Ólafsson Sculpture Museum, -14 to it into one of the cities premier rock 17 -Portraits and Abstractions Safn, -14 to 18 -Collection includes both venues and a refuge for those tired of international and Icelandic contemporary art. the monotonous coverbands who seem Admission 200 krónur Light Nights Summer Theatre, -starts at 20:30 - to dominate the scene. Concerts are Real authentic Icelandic show performed in English, to be held every Thursday, beginning including the most thrilling ghost story ever told; at 21.30 under the heading of “The The Deacon of Myrká Gig,” and admission is to be free. It Night all begins on the 14th of August, when Hallgrímskirkja Church, 20:00 Concert, The thinkers make yet another attempt at solving the existential dilemma. Steingrímur Þórhallsson and a Simphony the bands Dys and Ríkið perform. Photos: Aldís Café Culture, Kári Árnason’s Jazz quartet Dys was formed more than a Dubliners, Troubadour Ingvar Valgeirs year ago by punk and rock veterans When I first heard about this new society placed to lead the way. They have can do all the art they are into, anything who wanted to inject some anger Monday, August 18 of young artists renting a warehouse by access to the roof which overlooks the between photography to music. At least into the underground rock scene. Both Day and Night the harbour, it was from my flatmate’s whole downtown area, the harbour and that is there main agenda. All the artists Among members are Forgarður Austurvöllur out door exhibition, Earth from friend, who was drunk out of his mind. Mount Esja. “Perfect for concerts” said are working individually but they plan to Above. Aerial Photographs by Yann Arthus- Helvítis vocalist Siggi Pönk, agitator, Bertrand. I didn’t put much stock in what he was Hinni, the founder of the group, when he release some artwork quite regularly anarchist, vegetarian and nurse, who saying, but a couple of weeks later showed it to me. starting with a CD which documents their Day also edits his own radical webpage Reðursafnið, Phallological Museum, A fine we got invited to their opening party. What they were on about I couldn’t contribution to the Culture Night. This CD and is a tireless leaflet distributor. penis and penis related selection from various Everyone, including Grapevine, were be sure of and I think that they weren’t will be free of charge and attainable in 12 mammals. The band also includes Heiða from Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum, An exhibition shows very drunk that night, so nothing really either at first (given they state they were Tónar on Skólavörðustígur. the bands Unun and Heiðingjarnir, and life and work in the years 1950-60. came out of it but I remember the house in) so I decided to talk to them again “It’s a jam session CD” said Hinni when National Gallery of Iceland, Exhibition of members of Hljómsveit Íslands (band was really cool. A huge warehouse with later. So on a sunny Sunday afternoon I asked about the project. During Culture selected works by Icelandic artists from the of Iceland) and Fimmta herdeildin (fifth National Gallery's collection. long corridors which with candles were managed to find them again, meet with Night, starting around 20:00, there are National and University Library, Exhibition of the division). The bands style has been founder of the city´s documentation, also, childrens described as fast, loud and wild punk literature, texts and drawings. City Harbour, Summer long Fair rock. Reykjavik Museum of Photography, The Five Grapevine houseband Ríkið make The strength of the free thinkers Elements. Photographs and etchings from French- their international debut that evening Vietnamese artist Claire Xuan. lies in their numbers. A monthly Ásmundarsafn, Sculpture museum, The as well, playing material considered Modern Man, works of popular sculptor Ásmundar too radical for the paper put to music. Sveinsson. Lyrics are in Icelandic, so bring a fee helps keep them active. Einar Jónsson Sculpture Museum, The works of Iceland´s first modern sculptor. dictionary. The bands music has been Hafnarhúsið, Reykjavík Art Museum, -10 described as “not bad” and “way better them and pump them going to be some musicians here playing to 17 -Lobster or Fame Two Decades of Bad than that other band you were in” by Taste Ltd. Also Erró´s War paintings and Insight for some information. I what comes to mind preferably non stop. listeners. The Gig series will continue into international contemporary art in Iceland. arrived at their facility The idea is to have an open mike (or an Admission 500 ISK. Free on Mondays. the following Thursday, with acts this time sober and amplifier) for visitors in their facility. The Saga Museum, -10 to 18 -History face to face, to be announced. Contact Eric van historical figures and major events in Icelandic more aware of my result will be recorded and burnt on a CD history presented in a unique way. Admission 800 Munsteren at the Boomkikker (see: surroundings and saw for everyone to have. krónur. Venue Finder) for further details. Starts Skólavörðustígur 14, -14 - 22 -Nordic that they had been Every now and then a society like at 21.30. Admission free. Architecture as Resource. Examples from all the efficient in covering that surfaces in our community (every Nordic Countries. Light Nights Summer Theatre, -starts at 20:30 - the walls with their community actually). They all have big Real authentic Icelandic show performed in English, art but I was quite plans but not all of them manage to go including the most thrilling ghost story ever told; shocked to find out on after one project. The strength of the The Deacon of Myrká Jagúar that smoking was Free Thinkers would be their number. Night Dubliners, Troubadour Ingi Valur Leikhúskjallarinn banned in the house The fact that there are twenty active so we had to go on members (the monthly fee helps keeping Saturday August 16th the roof to talk. them active) see to it that there´s is Tuesday, August 19 Free thinkers is a always someone there so everybody Both Day and Night group of about twenty can use their house for creativity of Austurvöllur out door exhibition, Earth from Above. Aerial Photographs by Yann Arthus- artists who want to some sort. That way they can always Bertrand. create a facility for stay fresh since the gaps of fall outs can Day other artists. The constantly be refilled. Reðursafnið, Phallological Museum, A fine house comes with What they have is quite impressive now penis and penis related selection from various mammals. twenty keys which and I hope that they will come through… Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum, An exhibition shows people can rent for a We’ll see what happens. life and work in the years 1950-60. Five years have passed by at the fee of 3000 krónur per Nýlistasafið, The Living Art Museum,Behind the ice : Heimir Björgúlfsson - Pétur Örn Friðriksson speed of sound and the band Jaguar month. In there they Aðalsteinn Jörundsson - The Icelandic Love Corporation is celebrating every single one of them Sigurjón Ólafsson Sculpture Museum, tonight as it is their 5 year birthday. Concerts: Guðrún Birgisdóttir flute, Sigurður Snorrason clarinet and Anna Guðný Guðmundsdóttir Jaguar was formed in the summer of piano. 1998, by six persons with a mutual National Gallery of Iceland, Exhibition of interest in groove-oriented music, be selected works by Icelandic artists from the National Gallery's collection. it funk, Latin, soul or rock. Jaguar is National and University Library, Exhibition of the a very impressive live band & and have founder of the city´s documentation, also, childrens literature, texts and drawings. been playing constantly in every other City Harbour, Summer long Fair club in Reykjavik, including a concert Reykjavik Museum of Photography, The Five with Wayne Horwitz and Zony Mash. Elements. Photographs and etchings from French- Vietnamese artist Claire Xuan. Jaguar has released two albums in Ásmundarsafn, Sculpture museum, The their time, the first album was self- Modern Man, works of popular sculptor Ásmundar titled and released in December of Sveinsson. Einar Jónsson Sculpture Museum, The works of 1999 and their second album, titled Iceland´s first modern sculptor. “Get The Funk Out” was released Hafnarhúsið, Reykjavík Art Museum, -10 in June 2001. “Jaguar the Movie” to 17 -Lobster or Fame Two Decades of Bad Taste Ltd. Also Erró´s War paintings and Insight was also released along with their into international contemporary art in Iceland. last album offering. Band members Admission 500 ISK. Free on Mondays. Saga Museum, -10 to 18 -History face to face, are: Börkur Hrafn Birgisson, guitar / historical figures and major events in Icelandic wah wah. Daði Birgisson, keyboard, history presented in a unique way. Admission 800 Rhodes. Eyjólfur Þorleifsson, saxo- krónur. Gallery i8, -11 to 18 -Works of the contemporary phone. Ingi S. Skúlason, electric bass. artists Roni Horn Kjartan Hákonarson, trumpet. Samúel Handverk og Hönnun, -13 to 17 -Exhibition of Jón Samúelsson, trombone. Sigfús contemporary and traditional Icelandic art and crafts. Örn Óttarsson, drums. 24 - the reykjavík grapevine - august 8th - august 21st, 2003

ART

SIGURJÓN ÓLAFSSON MUSEUM LISTINGS It seems that once an Icelander Skólavörðustígur 14, -14 - 22 -Nordic gets his hands on a paintbrush or Architecture as Resource. Examples from all the Roni Horn Nordic Countries. a chisel, there is no stopping him. Sigurjón Ólafsson Sculpture Museum, -14 to The same hunger for new discoveries i8 17 -Portraits and Abstractions that drove Icelanders to the American Night Until September 13th Prikið, Guest DJ shore a thousand years ago forces their Dubliners, Troubadour Ingi Valur 20th century offspring to take untrodden paths in art and inevitably become the enfants terribles of all conservative Wednesday, August 20 still waters. In 1944, for example, the Both Day and Night Austurvöllur out door exhibition, Earth from municipality of the little town of Vejle Above. Aerial Photographs by Yann Arthus- in Denmark decided to pay for the Bertrand. sculptures they had commissioned for Day the city hall but wished they had never Reðursafnið, Phallological Museum, A fine penis and penis related selection from various set them up, indeed, they would best like mammals. to see the sculptures sunk to the bottom Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum, An exhibition shows of the sea. The expected outcome is, life and work in the years 1950-60. Nýlistasafið, The Living Art Museum,Behind of course, the sculptures standing now the ice : Heimir Björgúlfsson - Pétur Örn Friðriksson where they were meant to stand, being - The Icelandic Love Corporation Velje’s main tourist attraction. National Gallery of Iceland, Exhibition of selected works by Icelandic artists from the The creator of these sculptures is the National Gallery's collection. Icelandic sculptor Sigurjón Ólafsson. He A museum: Conveniently free of maddening crowds. Gallery i8 has without any doubt National and University Library, Exhibition of the was born on the south coast but soon Photos: Aldís been an important strand of the red founder of the city´s documentation, also, childrens thread running through contemporary literature, texts and drawings. moved to Reykjavík, where he received first Nordic emissaries to Iceland were rectangular shape of the original block of City Harbour, Summer long Fair artistic training from the best Icelandic not humans but two high seat pillars stone, like an insect trapped in a drop of Icelandic art and its interaction with Reykjavik Museum of Photography, The Five the international art scene. The Elements. Photographs and etchings from French- artists of the time before proceeding to washed ashore on the spot that was to golden amber. Vietnamese artist Claire Xuan. Denmark for further education. Neither become Iceland’s first settlement. It has Several other sculptures by Sigurjón gallery’s curator, Dorothée Kirch, has Ásmundarsafn, Sculpture museum, The Denmark nor Iceland was a bed of roses been actually commented on elsewhere are located at various places in Reykjavík. just recently been in charge of the Modern Man, works of popular sculptor Ásmundar Icelandic project at Prague Bienalle, a Sveinsson. for a man of innovative ideas and it took that the vertical form of a pillar makes The largest concentration of the artist’s Einar Jónsson Sculpture Museum, The works of time and effort for the artist to get his recurrent appearances in Sigurjón’s works, however, can be found at major event in contemporary European Iceland´s first modern sculptor. art recognized by art critics and the work and the sculpture that is located Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum, a place quite art, and among the three artists she Hafnarhúsið, Reykjavík Art Museum, -10 chose is Icelandic Love Corporation, to 17 -Lobster or Fame Two Decades of Bad public alike. in front of the famed Reagan-Gorbachov different from the monstrous classical Taste Ltd. Also Erró´s War paintings and Insight Sigurjón Ólafsson’s art covers an rendezvous building, Höfði, is indeed museums of mainland Europe. The a three-woman group that held an into international contemporary art in Iceland. exhibition at i8 in 2000 and who on 16 Admission 500 ISK. Free on Mondays. incredible range of material, technique called High Seat Pillars. building was originally the artist’s studio, Saga Museum, -10 to 18 -History face to face, and style. The artist seems to be The very first minutes an art-inclined located on a patch of wild land simply August will present their work at the historical figures and major events in Icelandic searching high and low for the most tourist spends in Reykjavík actually forgotten by the land administration National Gallery of Iceland as part of history presented in a unique way. Admission 800 the Cultural Night project. krónur. appropriate means of expression provide a nutshell tour through the authorities, and it was converted into a Gallery i8, -11 to 18 -Works of the contemporary sculpture can offer for each particular variety of Sigurjón’s work: having been museum at the initiative of the artist’s The gallery itself focuses on Icelandic artists Roni Horn work, eagerly and without discrimination. deposited from the airport and international art that emerged Handverk og Hönnun, -13 to 17 -Exhibition of in the 1970s and has presented contemporary and traditional Icelandic art and The material and the resulting effect are bus in front of Hotel Saga, crafts. inseparably interconnected, depending the visitors are confronted artists such as Ragna Róbertsdóttir Skólavörðustígur 14, -14 - 22 -Nordic or Sigurður Guðmundsson, Germany- Architecture as Resource. Examples from all the on and influencing each other. The with another abstract Nordic Countries. two portraits of the Icelandic painter monument of welded based Ólafur Elíasson and Douwe Sigurjón Ólafsson Sculpture Museum, -14 to Ásgrímur Jónsson, one carved in stone metal, Emblem of Iceland, Jan Bakker from Holland. The current 17 -Portraits and Abstractions exhibition presents work by Roni Horn, Safn, -14 to 18 -Collection includes both and the other a metal cast originally finished in 1973. A ten- international and Icelandic contemporary art. modelled in clay, traces of which are minute walk to the other an American artist who for the past 25 Admission 200 krónur still visible in the surface structure of side of the Pond leads years has been associated with Iceland Night the sculpture, are textbook examples of to the National Gallery of and has held exhibitions at i8 as well as Gaukur á Stöng, Deep Purple tribute concert with at the National Gallery of Iceland. Eiki Hauks in leading role how two works of an identical model can Iceland, where two very Prikið, DJ Jón Mýrdal differ depending on the different kinds of different works are on Roni started as a sculptor but Sirkus, Jazz DJ’s turned to photography in the 1990s. Kaffibarinn,Red wine night, surprise DJ material used. display. The bronze cast of Dubliners, Troubadour Bjarni Tryggva Stylistically Sigurjón’s work ranges The Football Player (1936) ‘This is me, this is you’ is a set of 96 from realism through the simplified is one of the works that photographs organized into two sets of forms of cubism to abstract art. explore the liquid-like forms juxtapositioned pairs. The setting up on Thursday, August 21 Cubism is particularly prominent in reminiscent of the work of two opposing walls plays an important Both Day and Night Sigurjón’s stone carving, while the Jean Arp. The colour of The children in the Sigurjón household never got to eat the role as it adds an element of distance Austurvöllur out door exhibition, Earth from and forces the viewer to concentrate Above. Aerial Photographs by Yann Arthus- metal sculptures of sportsmen and the the air-exposed metal and gingerbread men. Instead, they were put into museums. Bertrand. fully on the perception of the work. plaster casts from 1930s acquire a the shape of the sculpture Day rounded shape of melted material. In bring to mind the image of the antique widow, Birgitta Spur. Conveniently The pictures have been taken over a Hallgrímskirkja Church, 12:00 Concert, Veronica 1939 Sigurjón presented his first fully sculptures scattered on the bottom of situated far from the maddening crowds, time period of two years and feature Ostenhammer & Friðrik Stefánsson the artist’s teenage niece, although to Reðursafnið, Phallological Museum, A fine abstract work, which was a sign of the the Mediterranean Sea and thus create the museum offers a unique combination penis and penis related selection from various artist’s discovery of a new media, wood, a curious contrast to the thoroughly of pleasure and education. On my last call them portraits can be somewhat mammals. Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum, An exhibition shows and one of the many wooden sculptures modern topic of the sculpture. The visit to the museum I could enjoy the misleading. The aim is not to present a passport photo image of the girl but life and work in the years 1950-60. that followed, some of them abstract, armless look was actually not the artist’s peace and quiet of a sunny Saturday Nýlistasafið, The Living Art Museum,Behind others inspired by primitive art. In mid- original intention, as an earlier version afternoon, with the sea splashing rather to capture the ever-changing the ice : Heimir Björgúlfsson - Pétur Örn Friðriksson - The Icelandic Love Corporation 1950s the harsh working conditions of the sculpture shows, but a later against the promontory’s rugged facial expressions and the moods they convey. The work has been compared National Gallery of Iceland, Exhibition of of the artist’s studio took their toll on alteration the sculpture itself seemed shore, wild geese waddling among selected works by Icelandic artists from the Sigurjón’s health and the artist was to demand as it was taking shape. The the outdoor do-touch-the-exhibits and to Roni’s landscape photographs and National Gallery's collection. her attempts to capture the constantly National and University Library, Exhibition of the diagnosed with major lung problems other sculpture in front of the gallery Birgitta Spur, the museum’s manager, founder of the city´s documentation, also, childrens that eventually resulted in tuberculosis. is The Viking (1951), a work of totally weeding the lawn in front of the building. changing atmosphere of nature. 11 am literature, texts and drawings. The event did not, however, dampen the different material and technique: a stone The amazing view of the open sea can - 6 pm Thursdays and Fridays, 1 pm City Harbour, Summer long Fair - 5 pm Saturdays or by appointment. Reykjavik Museum of Photography, The Five artist’s creative energy. On the contrary, carving that was created by subtracting also be admired from the museum’s Elements. Photographs and etchings from French- it lead to a new chapter in Sigurjón’s art the mass instead of forming it the way cafeteria, which in addition provides a Admission free Vietnamese artist Claire Xuan. Ásmundarsafn, Sculpture museum, The as he was introduced to the technique of a metal cast mould is created. The selection of publications to leaf through, Modern Man, works of popular sculptor Ásmundar metal welding at the TBC sanatorium’s Viking shows a shape quite typical for including the comprehensive two-volume Sveinsson. workshop. The sculptures that follow Sigurjón’s stone carvings, as it suggests artist’s biography and, as it is good Einar Jónsson Sculpture Museum, The works of The Hamburger Tour Iceland´s first modern sculptor. are abstract works, the shapes of which a real-like form in its outlines but at the manners in most Icelandic museums, Hafnarhúsið, Reykjavík Art Museum, -10 are a clear reminder of the fact that the same time remains under the spell of the a large compilation of articles that August 10th - 16th to 17 -Lobster or Fame Two Decades of Bad Taste Ltd. Also Erró´s War paintings and Insight document the reception of Sigurjón’s into international contemporary art in Iceland. art by the Danish and Icelandic press Admission 500 ISK. Free on Mondays. over more than fifty years. The current Saga Museum, -10 to 18 -History face to face, historical figures and major events in Icelandic exhibition at the museum focuses on history presented in a unique way. Admission 800 portraits and abstract works and gives krónur. visitors the opportunity to see some of Gallery i8, -11 to 18 -Works of the contemporary artists Roni Horn the works that brought the artist fame Handverk og Hönnun, -13 to 17 -Exhibition of and recognition, such as the portrait of contemporary and traditional Icelandic art and crafts. the artist’s mother or the primitive art Musician and avant-garde artist Curver Skólavörðustígur 14, -14 - 22 -Nordic inspired Queen of the Mountains. is commencing a tour of hamburger Architecture as Resource. Examples from all the The captivating atmosphere at restaurants, which invites people Nordic Countries. Sigurjón Ólafsson Sculpture Museum, -14 to Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum together to come and watch the artist eat 17 -Portraits and Abstractions with the art works on display are sure to hamburgers at announced times. The Safn, -14 to 18 -Collection includes both make for an enjoyable afternoon outing. artist’s previous works include “The international and Icelandic contemporary art. Admission 200 krónur And for those who do not feel like going Room,” when people were invited to Night back to the manic downtown Reykjavík in his workshop to watch him clean it, Hverfisbar,Coverband Bítlarnir the evening the museum offers a series and “The Diet,” which was documented Gaukur á Stöng, Deep Purple tribute concert with of classical music concerts, giving the with post cards and photographs. Eiki Hauks in leading role Sirkus, DJ Arna visitors’ ear and eye equal enjoyment at This piece will be documented by the Dubliners, Troubadour Bjarni Tryggva the same time. artist himself on the radio program That thing on the left is a work of art, the thing on the right is used for storing them in. Zombie and a feature in the TV series Beata Rödlingova Hjartsláttur, as well as in other media. 24 - the reykjavík grapevine - august 8th - august 21st, 2003 26 - the reykjavík grapevine - august 8th - august 21st, 2003

JUSTICE

ICELAND AT WAR The applicable legal norms article BY The sanctions against Iraq were imposed -The participation of Iceland’s leaders in war crimes by the UN Security Council under Chapter VII of the UN Charter. They and crimes against humanity thus created obligations of compliance DAVÍÐSSON ELÍAS by UN member states, including Iceland. As an Icelandic citizen concerned with the respect However, should the Security Council exceed its commission, for example, owed by Iceland and its leaders for human rights, I by deciding to exterminate a national have felt compelled to formally request the initiation group or impose inhumane conditions of criminal action against three Icelandic leaders. I of existence on human beings, its decisions would have to be considered have charged them with participation in crimes against as null and void and may not be carried humanity against Iraqi civilians (mostly children) out. States acting in furtherance of invalid Council decisions would do so and in war crimes against civilian employees of the at their own risk and peril and could not Belgrade TV station. shield themselves behind the authority of the Council. At Nurnberg in 1945, Nazi The facts author of these lines brought home to leaders invoked the Fuehrer Principle as In August 1990, the Security Council the new minister the devastating effects a defence (“we just obeyed orders”) but Inhabitants of the Westman Islands prepare for the first weekend of August. of the United Nations imposed on Iraq of the sanctions through a sit-in in the to no avail. By imposing on the people of Photo: Bjarki Þór Kjartansson - as a response to Iraq’s military invasion Foreign Ministry and a personal meeting Iraq inhumane conditions of life that have and occupation of Kuwait - the most with the Minister. caused the deaths of over half a million Iceland’s Public Prosecutor chose to Oddsson and Halldór Ásgrímsson, are stringent economic sanctions ever Early on 23 April 1999, NATO children, the Security Council effectively disregard entirely the reported fact thus personally charged with complicity imposed by the United Nations on any forces perpetrated an air attack on asked states to commit crimes against of massive deaths resulting from the in the commission of a war crime against nation. The sanctions against Iraq and the Belgrade TV station resulting in the humanity, although the measures were, sanctions. By doing so, he implicitly sixteen civilian persons in Belgrade, its population were only lifted after the death of 16 civilian employees of the of course, dressed in sanitized terms. endorsed the rule according to which causing their death. No legal action has invasion and occupation of Iraq by the station. On the same day, a meeting of It was and remains the responsibility of Icelandic individuals can with impunity yet been taken against these Icelandic United States and the United Kingdom in NATO leaders was held in Washington sovereign states (and individual leaders) participate in mass killing of children leaders, in spite of attempts by groups 2003. As a result of a combination of D.C. where the decision was taken, to consider the legality, validity and as long as killings are dressed in the of international legal experts and families factors, including the severe shortages by consensus, to permit attacks on effects of measures they are asked to appropriate sanitized language, are of the victims to obtain the indictment of implement. To the extent that individual committed indirectly and are imposed by all NATO leaders responsible for this war By giving legal force to measures known leaders are put at notice regarding the Security Council. A detailed review crime and other war crimes allegedly the adverse effects of measures they of the legal aspects of the Iraq sanctions committed in the NATO air campaign to cause the deaths of thousands, a leader impose or support, they are deemed to is found on http://www.aldeilis.net/jus/ against former Yugoslavia. have intended the consequences of their econsanc/sanciraqlegal.pdf . While the author of these lines has is guilty of crimes against humanity. acts. By giving legal force to measures The attack by NATO forces on the spearheaded the efforts to secure known to cause the deaths of thousands Belgrade TV station in 1999 was made the indictment of Icelandic political of children every month, a public leader in the knowledge that this station was leaders, numerous Icelandic citizens caused by the sanctions, over half a media in Serbia, effectively giving legal would be guilty of participation in crimes not a legitimate military target. Attacks have endorsed such efforts, inter alia, million children in Iraq died, in excess of blessing to the attack committed a against humanity under customary on civilian targets are prohibited under by signing a public appeal. In doing previous child mortality rates. A detailed few hours earlier. The meeting was international law. This guilt attaches international humanitarian law, including so, those who press for an indictment review of the sanctions is provided at attended by Iceland’s Prime Minister, both to principals and accessories of the Geneva Conventions of 12 August are merely upholding recognized http://www.aldeilis.net/jus/econsanc/ David Oddsson, and Iceland’s Foreign crime. 1949 and their Additional Protocols, norms of international law and the rule chronology.pdf. Minister, Halldór Ásgrímsson. No to which Iceland is a party. Wilfully of law within Iceland. Grave breaches Iceland became a formal participant public announcement was made at the The author of these lines has formally attacking a civilian installation with the of international humanitarian law, let in the sanctions against the people of time by these individuals regarding this asked Iceland’s Public Prosecutor to knowledge of causing civilian deaths alone for participating in the killing Iraq through the publication of an official decision, nor did they in any way object initiate legal action against both Jón amounts to a war crime. NATO leaders of thousands of children, cannot be prohibition of trade with Iraq published to the attack on a civilian installation Baldvin Hannibalsson and Halldór who attended a meeting which gave the condoned. We all owe it to the victims in Iceland’s official journal and signed in Belgrade. A detailed review of this Ásgrímsson for their participation in the authorization for the commission of and their surviving families to seek by former Foreign Minister, Jón Baldvin particular event (in Icelandic) is available above crime. The Public Prosecutor war crimes are personally liable under justice, including the disclosure of the Hannibalsson. Iceland’s participation in on http://www.aldeilis.net/natofry/ chose to dismiss the case on the international criminal law for having full truth on the circumstances that led the sanctions continued unabated after warcrimesicelfry.html. ground that complying with Security endorsed the commission of such a to their deaths. Mr. Halldór Ásgrímsson took charge of Council decisions was a legal obligation. crime. The two Icelandic leaders, David foreign affairs. As he took office, the

NO ONE EXPECTS THE SPANISH INQUISITION hand, they refused to fess unfair to say that the reign of terror for But this won’t be like any normal refuse to do this (innocence maybe?), up they were turned over over half a millennia probably outweighs court, with checks and balances that they could choose to go before the to the secular arm of the most of the good stuff they may have guarantee the prisoners their rights. American Inquisition where they will be Inquisition, which alone accomplished along the way. On the list Among other things, the prisoners won’t tried, convicted and executed – not could impose the death of cruel and never-ever-to-be-repeated be able to choose their own attorneys; necessarily in that order. penalty. human inventions, the Spanish Inquisition the attorneys they get, can be removed Not much of a choice now is it? The Inquisitions pretty would probably rank fairly high on most at any time; the verdict will be given by Haraldur Ingi Þorleifsson much made up their own peoples lists – perhaps somewhere judges who can also be rules and accountability between the Holocaust and disco music removed at any time and was close to zero, – so, you would think that the days of without any explanation; so predictably - in the the Spanish Inquisition were numbered, there will be no excitement of the mass wouldn’t you? I mean, you wouldn’t really appeals; and perhaps killings and all - the priests expect the Spanish Inquisition to pop most impressively, got a bit carried away. In up again in your neighbourhood, would confessions that the beginning torture wasn’t allowed to you? Well, as it turns out, some things were abstracted When the Roman Church had extract admissions of guilt but some have a nasty habit of sneaking up on under torture can be consolidated its power, shortly after the smart pastor apparently realised that you. admissible as evidence second to last millennia, the Pope and this wasn’t a really effective rule so it The American government has about as well as hearsay some of his cronies got together and got struck out somewhere along the seven hundred prisoners tucked away evidence from an decided that something had to be done way. And as a general rule you could in Guantanamo Bay, Cuba and some anonymous witness. about all them heretics that were raining say that the heretics had two choices: of these men have been in this legal Kangaroo court on their parade all over Europe - they they could confess or die - sometimes black hole for over a year and a half. anyone? figured that you couldn’t have people both. The plight of these prisoners has been It’s clear to anyone running amok, trying to make gold out Now, the Vatican has never actually widely reported so I won’t go into any with half a brain that of thin air, bewitching each other and issued a press release with the number details about their situation, but let´s someone who refuses worshipping self proclaimed gods like of heretics executed by the Inquisitions, just say that the prison is the envy to confess will have Allah and whatnot. So, they set up the but the impressive nine million figure of your common variety, bloodthirsty as much chance of an Papal Inquisition for the apprehension has been mentioned a few times – you dictator. acquittal as a black and trial of heretics, the most notorious know, a million here, a million there and Until now, the powers that be in man has of escaping of these of course being the Spanish pretty soon you’ve got yourself a mass Washington haven’t charged the growing from any self respecting Inquisition. genocide. number of inmates with any offence, Klan convention. Although the inquisitorial procedure Considering their bloody history, military or otherwise, but last week they The options then was perhaps quite complex, its essence most people would probably think announced that six of the men will soon are two: The men could was simple enough: Those suspected that the Spanish Inquisition and its get their day in court. Two Britons are in confess and accept that of heresy were given time to repent, counterparts weren’t a really good the group and they have now been given they won’t be getting confess and absolve themselves. If the idea. Ok, you could argue that they two options: Confess and get locked much of a tan in the accused confessed, his punishment were a pretty efficient bunch (you’d be up for twenty years or face the closed next couple of decades. Left; the Spanish inquisition. Above; the Bush administration. could range from a couple of hail Mary’s hard pressed to find a decent alchemist tribunal, where - if they are found guilty Or on the other hand, if to life imprisonment. If, on the other nowadays, eh?) but all in all it wouldn’t be - they will be executed. they for some reason 26 - the reykjavík grapevine - august 8th - august 21st, 2003 28 - the reykjavík grapevine - august 8th - august 21st, 2003 august 8th - august 21st, 2003 - the reykjavík grapevine - 29

WANDERINGS

SWIMMING POOLS IN REYKJAVÍK SOME FUN PLACES TO VISIT AND GET WET IN Photos: Aldís Sundhöllin Laugardalslaugin The city’s oldest functioning The biggest swimming pool still has a bit one, built in of that charming depression 1966, on a era feel. Almost always spot where guaranteed babe-free, as people have the clientele consists mostly bathed at of older men who spend least as far their time debating politics back as 1772, in the hot tubs, and some of amongst eels them may in fact have been both living and there since it opened. It has dead, and where some people got stuck in the mud some very ancient workout and drowned or expired due to overheating. But equipment so you can attempt to beef up before venturing out into more Reykvikians remained undaunted and swimming babe infested areas. It is the city’s only indoor swimming pool, but you can has continued in this area. Today you will find go naked up onto the balcony if you wish, in segregated men’s and women’s a large pool a fine selection of tubs of various areas. Two moderately warm tubs, one with a permanent Jacuzzi, and a temperatures and a water slide. It has one major steam bath. Also the only pool to have jumping platforms. disadvantage in its locker system. You are issued a coin which you must put in the door of your locker. Vesturbæjarlaugin However, once undressed, it transpires more often Its main advantage is than not that you’ve lost it. This issue is often hotly that the shelves where debated in the papers on slow news days, with quite you leave your towels are a few people demanding that something be done. numbered corresponding to your locker numbers, Árbæjarlaugin hence ensuring that you Babe hell, particularly on good weather days. Has most probably leave many novel features, including the fact that you with the towel that you actually enter the pool before swimming outside, came with. Its main hence skipping those frantic mid-winter runs to get disadvantage is that it is into the water before losing a limb to frostbite. The colder than most other tubs are also within striking distance. For added swimming pools, which is amusement, water sprouts out of the bottom at tolerable in the summer, less so in winter. Four hot tubs of different temperatures. One of them has a very powerful water massage machine. The results are somewhere between painful and pleasant, but definitely worth a try. The steam bath is very steamy, but the effects are not quite those of a proper sauna. The only swimming pool which has instructions in Finnish on washing, which may or may not say something about the Finnish clientele. Neslaug The bare necessities. 2 tubs and a pool, but the steam bath isn’t bad. The pool is divided up into a warm children’s section and a colder adult section. The greatest asset of the kid’s pool is that you can just tip your head on land and lie there floating. irregular intervals, making sure you keep moving. The entrance system is pretty straight Its best feature should be the lie down Jacuzzi, but forward, you give the man your money for some reason you can never be sure whether and enter, put your clothes in the locker and take out the key. For added you’re lying or sitting, so you never manage to excitement, you can even undress in a secluded area outside. The pool’s get comfortable. The steam bath, however, is the main novelty is that it’s the only pool not sterilised with chlorine, instead they closest you can get to a proper sauna in the pools. use saltwater. In the basement, there is a broken tread machine and some The garden also has some sculptures by Teddi (see weights. The pool is adequate, but in need of a facelift. p. 19). Probably the best and most varied pool.

Nauthólsvík A pier for seaplanes during the war, and used for public bathing afterwards, until being closed due to pollution, but has recently reopened and is thoroughly cleaned up. Warm water from the tanks on top of Öskjuhlíð, having previously been used to warm up dwellings in Reykjavik, pours down into the sea, thus making a part of it fit for swimming. It tries its best to maintain a beach feel, and sometimes succeeds, although the sight of Icelanders playing volleyball and barbecuing in temperatures most people would consider unfit for going outdoors in can range from hilarious to tragic. Worth a visit for the novelty. It has swimming pool facilities and you must pay the standard fee in order to use the hot tubs. 28 - the reykjavík grapevine - august 8th - august 21st, 2003 august 8th - august 21st, 2003 - the reykjavík grapevine - 29

OUTSIDE THE CITY

ICELAND: A USERS MANUAL BIRD WATCHING NEAR BORGARNES

AKUREYRI ÍSAFJÖRÐUR The biggest town outside of the Greater Reykjavik area, with around EGILSSTAÐIR The capital of the West Fjords, with 16.000 inhabitants, and the capital some 3200 inhabitants, situated in a of the north. The main cultural The capital of the east, with about narrow fjord in between high, steep difference between north and south is 1500 inhabitants. It´s only just over 50 mountains. It has a good, natural in pronunciation of k´s, and that in the years old, and its main industries are harbour close to the best fishing north the put kokkteilsósa, a pinkish crafts, agriculture and tourism. Known grounds around Iceland, but other mayonnaise on their hotdogs. Its main for its comparatively good weather, traditional livelihoods include iron industry is fishing, and it houses two of and the proximity of a man made crafts and netmaking, although high the five biggest fishing companies. forest. Is also close to the Lagarfljót tech and tourism have been making lake, where a monster is supposed to their inroads into these. reside. Sightings are rare, but a ferry of the same name sails frequently.

KEFLAVÍK

Mostly known for three things; its proximity to the main international airport, its proximity to the US Naval base, and as the birthplace of rock and roll in Iceland. It currently has around 8000 inhabitants. Rúnar Júlíusson, who can be said to be the father of Icelandic rock and roll, still lives there. Many of the inhabitants work in fishing or in connection with the base or airport.

PLACES TO LOOK AT: 1. THE BLUE LAGOON One of the first stops for any visitor, and situated very close to Keflavik’s THIS MUST BE FINEST DAY OF MY LIFE… international airport. The lagoons´ mud So starts the entry in a young man’s and preserve Iceland’s native species. Kristinn is an is believed to have healing powers, diary in July 1911. The diarist was a He is a full-square chunk of an Icelander e x c e p t i o n . especially for people suffering from student at the time at the agricultural with a gentle manner that belies the He welcomes psoriasis or other skin diseases.The college near Borganes. Not many passion he has for conservation. To be the questions distinctive blue colour is due to the students would list a day at college with him visiting a nest of eagles was a that only the warmth and the high level of silicone as their finest, but the reason this privilege. ignorant can in the water. Sadly, there´s no evidence fellow was so pleased with his day is I assumed that, as we would be pose, and that this increases cleavage size. revealed in the words that complete the viewing eagles this would involve a long when your 2. ÞINGVELLIR sentence, ‘…for today, at Casket Rock I uphill walk to some eyrie balanced high speciality is In 930 a.d. the Vikings decided they shot and killed an eagle.’ up a precipice somewhere. Fortunately eagles - to needed to find a way to settle their I had been invited to join Kristinn the Icelandic Eagle, or white-tailed be precise disagreements, so they founded a Haukur and his friend Finnur to visit the eagle as it is known, prefers to make its the 50 pairs parliament, and called it Alþingi. Today, eagles that had recently returned to home by the sea where there is a ready who nest in although relocated, it is the oldest the vicinity of Casket Rock to see how supply of fish and fowl. We still had a the whole of (sometimes) functioning parliament in their two chicks had fared during the 2-kilometre walk to get to the estuary Iceland - then the world, The Vikings, when not busy hacking limbs of one another, were summer. I needed no second asking. and the island where the eagles were he must hear quite aware of the beauty of nature and Kristinn is one of Iceland’s leading nesting. The last stretch would involve a lot of dumb picked this breathtaking spot to meet. ‘wildlife ecologists’, and although I don’t a race against the tide as we waded questions. The American and European continen- know what his job title really means, it through knee-deep mud to beat the I had a tal plates meet precisely here. Another eagle regrets not being a migrating bird. sounds good and doubtless makes the returning sea. There was ample time to long list for 3. GULLFOSS & GEYSIR civil servants who pay his salary feel talk. him. We Usually these two are mentioned to- happy. What is beyond doubt is that This isn’t really the place to go into made it to gether, partly because of geographic Kristinn is a countryman to the core, detail about habitat preservation, the the island, a rocky isle, crowned with holds. In the meantime a great deal proximity, partly because they both enjoying the embrace of a lifetime’s love effects of pesticides and poisoning, all eel-grass. Amongst the bones of a of diligence and passion goes into start with the letter G. Geysir is the affair with Icelandic nature. ‘Twitchers’ of which were part of the reason Kristinn regurgitated meals and guano was the maintaining this, the most special geyser from which all geysers derive as we call them back in England have had a syringe in his knapsack in order aquiline profile of an eaglet. His flight of Icelandic birds. Sadly the second their name. Sadly, it rarely erupts these a reputation of being obsessive and for us to take a blood sample for DNA feathers had not fully developed and he eaglet, which had been ringed a few days, the family business having been geeky, verging on the furtive. No one analysis. Our walk had a surreal quality was limited to half hopping half flapping weeks earlier, has not survived. Eider taken over by heir Strokkur. Gullfoss is could level this accusation at Kristinn. to it as I trudged through the mud on a through the grass. Finnur swept him farmers and the odd sheep farmer still generally thought to be Icelands most His formative years were spent in sun-baked afternoon in the great man’s up into his arms avoiding the swirl of see the eagles as enemies and will lay beautiful waterfall, hence the name, Iceland but he studied for several years footsteps, the holiday traffic rattling talons and beak and finally subduing poison for them. We returned across meaning “Golden Waterfall.” in the USA before returning to research down the hill, Route 1 in full August the bird by cradling it into his arms. the flats, barely ahead of the tide with 4. LANDMANNALAUGAR Bank holiday mode. We stopped and Kristinn prepared the syringe to take a the dead carcass in a Noatun bag for an Probably one of the most popular jeep stood in the mud and gazed as the two sample from the vein in the wing. This autopsy. excursions tours is a round trip from eagles circled overhead. At Kristinn’s is all part of the work, a mix of science As we walked back to the mainland, Reykjavik to Landmannalaugar. Not surprising since Landmannalaugar is prompting I pretended to notice the and adventure, which ensures that this I for a moment considered the student actually a natural swimming pool in difference in the pitch of their calls and and other species will be here for future who, too had returned with an eagle the middle of Iceland’s highland desert. the comparative largeness of the female generations. carcass in 1911. On the face of it an Don’t bring shampoo or soap because opposed to the male, when in truth I was It is only thirty years ago that these identical outcome but our days and this pool is so natural that we wouldn’t just happy to be out there with these eagles were on the verge of extinction purpose could not have been more want to spoil it would we? If you’re up to birds above. in Iceland and now thanks to the effort different. a 12 hour journey, most of the time in- Icelanders can be misers when of the nature conservatory and their side a huge jeep, it is usually worth it. it comes dishing out information but various teams, their tenuous grasp Robert Jackson 30 - the reykjavík grapevine - august 8th - august 21st, 2003

MISCELLANEOUS

THE ART OF TRAVEL is a case of the former us as convinced as Flaubert was that temporarily homeless is all about. feeding the latter, as the fewer preconceived ideas travellers That, and the inescapable fact that he de Botton holds forth have about a place going into it, the prefers people (philosophers, mainly) on such things as less prone they will be to disillusionment to places, which cannot be said to be gas stations, airport when leaving it. We are also treated to a among the world’s most compelling signage and the nature- scene of Flaubert in bed with an Egyptian to begin with: Barbados, Amsterdam, worshipping poetry of courtesan and snippets of his acidic the Hammersmith neighbourhood of William Wordsworth Dictionary of Received Ideas. Sample London. – topics presented to entries: In one chapter we find Mr. de Botton advance the author’s A) Hotels – are first-rate only in waxing poetical on travel by jet plane. In cause of making Switzerland. making such pronouncements as “Food travel a more enriching B) (under the heading “Faith in Progress/ that if sampled in a kitchen would have experience for all. De Pride in Technology”) Railways – Enthuse been banal or even offensive acquires a Botton’s observations about them, saying, ‘I, my dear sir, who new taste and interest in the presence by Alain de Botton are refracted through am speaking to you now, was at X this of the clouds” he simply articulates “He who sits still in a house all the time a curious assortment of artists, morning. I took the train to Y, transacted what every thinking airplane passenger may be the greatest vagrant of all,” writers and explorers, the designated my business there, and by Z o’clock was has thought at one moment or another wrote Henry David Thoreau. Residence guides through his mannerly riffs on back here.’ during a long and boring flight. Perhaps I as tourism in its most concentrated anticipation, travelling places, the exotic A book about travel as opposed to am being harsh. But as he croons about form? Perhaps not, but staying home and so on. Sometimes the results are a travel book is a risky undertaking. the beauty and transformative power of and smelling the roses seems like an rewarding, such as an unlikely pairing of Here, in a chapter called “On Possessing mechanized flight, one wonders if he’s increasingly attractive alternative to Charles Baudelaire and Edward Hopper Beauty,” we are introduced (many of ever experienced turbulence. hunting down airfares, enduring the to demonstrate the allure of “the liminal us for the first time, probably) to John Or worse. After the initial shock of misguided enthusiasms of security staff travelling place,” or in terms less lyrical, Ruskin and his adherence to drawing September 11 wore off and the heart- The Art of Travel too rarely elicits the and venturing abroad at a time when hotel rooms and modes of transport. as a way of seeing things truly. The stopping sound of one of the world’s exhilaration that is journey-making at its instability corrodes order everywhere Other choices, though plucky, seem lesson – for it reads like one – raises a most emblematic tourist attractions finest. Perhaps if de Botton had simply from Pakistan to Paris. out of place in a book nominally about few questions about the merit of travel collapsing receded to memory’s horror travelled more, or struck out more often How Proust Can Change Your Life travel: Edmund Burke and Job (yes, that photography in this era of video cameras file, I started like many others to rethink on his own than in the company of his author Alain de Botton may not be as Job) as guides to aspects of sublime and digital picture-taking, but it borders travel. A book like this might have looked boring girlfriend, we would have a more fierce an advocate of going nowhere landscapes as exemplified by the Sinai on esoteric. Reading about one of the more elegiac than instructive long before gripping read. As it is we are presented as Thoreau, but to judge by his latest Peninsula. Here as elsewhere in The Art author’s few actual experiences (as September 11; after all, the relegation with a dry treatise on travel by a sensitive endeavour, The Art of Travel, neither of Travel, one yearns for less scholarly opposed to impressions) in a chapter of travel to two-week doses or strings and astute observer whose receptivity is he on the brink of buying an around- rumination and at least some mention of called “On the Country and the City”, of three-day weekends has been a to new experience is nevertheless in the-world ticket and chronicling his what it is actually like to wander about as he encounters a sheep in England’s reality for a long time now. But today, question. adventures for us. And yet, despite this desolate place in the year 2002 - but Lake District and wonders “What makes when many destinations as well as the Just as most would-be nomads his unassailable intentions, one wishes like water in the Sinai such description me me and him him?”, I found myself process of getting to them is fraught would sooner sink their teeth into a he might. Chiefly because his central proves elusive. formulating alternative titles for the with once unthinkable perils, to make good meal than look at a painting of premise – that we ought to learn to see I don’t want to make the book out chapter, starting with “Mysteries of the no mention of how the act of travel has one, so they would be advised to dig the stuff around us before jetting off to to be bleaker than it is. One bright Petting Zoo.” The author is reaching, been blackened by circumstances – and into Paul Fussell’s Abroad or anything foreign parts, the better to appreciate the spot is de Botton’s evocation of the though for what exactly I’m not quite the undeniable impact that this has made from Jan Morris’s geographic arsenal, latter – is as wholesome as it is lacking errant episodes in the life of Gustave sure. on the art of it – is nothing less than and savor not just the contours but the in novelty. The very title is more prosaic Flaubert, whom he selects as his guide Oddly enough it is this very act of remiss. flavour of travel. That is a surer way to than modest, and a fair indicator of the to “the Exotic.” Alternating between pinning travel under the microscope But that complaint is almost discover just how deliciously contagious staid if sweet sentiments expressed in the ornery Frenchman’s experiences that distances de Botton from the peripheral. The main one is that despite wanderlust can be. the thin chapters that follow. in Egypt and his own impressions of cool thrill that, at bottom, is what an interesting structure and some Sentiments or strategies? Perhaps it modern Amsterdam, de Botton leaves paying good money to render oneself exceedingly elegant turns of phrase, Reviewed by Anthony Grant

MOVING PICTURES - STATIONARY CONTINUED FROM PAGE 6. If there is any subject that has been its heart bleeds just as badly A friend of mine was called for this work and residence permits. That absolutely exhausted then it is the as any other media. survey. He asked the surveyor how many means, if their permit expires and a discussion of the health condition Review of the SURVIVAL foreigners there were in fact in Iceland. national wants their job, the employer is of punk rock, in what stages of MACHINE by Prentis The surveyor said he didn't know. So obliged to give the job to the national, decomposition it is and exactly when Rollins much for being able to make an informed even if the employer would rather retain and how it died. Sort of forensic rock From punk to sci-fi... not a opinion, let alone within such a feeble the immigrant. journalism. The Geirfinnur of culture large leap admittedly but cross-section. Later on, they ran another 5) Citizenship takes a long time. In styles if you will (editorial note: Geirfinnur we are in nerd territory and front-page story about foreigners who Iceland, it's seven years of really, really, is a man who disappeared in the 70´s, you will have to bear with marry Icelanders, get citizenship, and good behavior. prompting a huge manhunt, but was me. Don’t get me wrong then divorce shortly thereafter. It's a Hopefully this will give you all; never found. He has since become – we are not talking about good thing that Stöð 2 news that very immigrants, tourists and Icelanders something of a John Doe for missing cyberpunk, that hopelessly night added to the story: Any foreigner alike, a broader and more honest persons.) But that won’t stop me miserable subgenre that who gets citizenship through marriage view of what it means to be one of from throwing in my two cents. Punk died a decade ago. I don’t and the possibilities of immortality will lose it if they get divorced. And the wretched refuse on the teeming was about the Do It Yourself ethic as think the two necessarily go together. that technology may afford us from an then there was the outrage Fréttablaðið shores. Immigrants are coming to everyone should know. The lovely idea Because when comics are seen as a interesting angle and pulls it off with a expressed over 150 foreigners working your country because they like your of throwing yourself into it and not pure expressive beast under a light lovely twist at the end, reminiscent of the at the new Alcoa plant in the east, while country better than their own. Isn't that spending your life thinking about it. It of flaming romanticism, it will clash old EC horror titles. All with a nod and unemployment is so high. Refreshingly, flattering? And until they become fully is about fearing neither deep reasoning with sci-fi. The best workable way to a wave to HAL from Stanley Kubrick´s they printed a quote the next day from an nationalized, they'll do all the crummy nor what the future might throw your distinguish sci-fi from other related 2001. Alcoa official who said that no qualified jobs you wouldn't touch with a ten-foot way. And one can see the benefits of genres, such as horror and fantasy, Next is a straight from the heart piece on Icelander could be found for those jobs. pole (metric conversion: three-meter- this mode of thinking in the actions of is that while fantasy is almost always race relations and the generation gap. Still, would it have killed the fact-checker pole). How convenient is that? So the the old punks; they are in general far romantic in some respect, the fiction of There is nothing particularly sci-fi about to call Alcoa before running the initial next time you see a family of foreigners more open to new ideas and technology science is material and firmly footed in it and it gets its simple but important story? Maybe the delay was deliberate. walking down the street, or are about to than the preceding or subsequent reality, no matter how fantastic the world point across well. The third is a comedy Who knows? breeze right past the cleaning woman generations. But punk was also a means around it. It doesn’t need to happen in about a scientist obsessively seeking This kind of sensationalism is made in your office without a second glance, for an unmitigated outpouring of feeling. the future or contain space ships or even out a dimension where lonely socks and all the more disgusting by the fact that or are waiting for the orderly to finish Expression without third parties, talent science for that matter, but a logical and quarters and dimes disappear to when there is nothing constructive to be cleaning your grandmother's bedpan so or styles getting in the way. But in the technical approach to the storytelling they roll behind the bed or are lost in the accomplished by running such stories. you can make your monthly visit, don't end this lack of style became the style. and characters seems prevalent. dryer. Very similar to the Ren & Stimpy Most Icelanders realize how important act like you don't see them. Smile, wave, Just like Sigurrós´s lack of attitude is Having carved out a niche for it, writers episode with the mountain of missing left a role immigrants play in their country. and tell them "Welcome to our country, their attitude and Björks “in-your-face” as far removed from warp drives and socks, only more philosophical. Who else is going to gut the fish? you ready and willing future citizens of is her mask. blackholes as Chuck Palanuik, J.G. This book closes with an apocalyptic tale In case you're a little in the dark this, our great society!" They might not I would like to think that comics keep the Ballard and William Burroughs should all about the last man on earth, which ties about immigration law in Iceland, here yet understand a word you're saying, spirit alive. They go mostly unnoticed fit in snugly. in neatly with the first one, but fails to are a few basic rules which seem to be but chances are they'll smile and wave and disrespected, so by default they can The scope of the playing field that this deliver the same punch in my opinion. almost international. Anywhere you go in back. get away with murder. Comics have a definition allows is evident in The Survival All in all the Survival Machine is no the world, you will find that: long history of individuals taking matters Machine. show-stopper but a nice affordable 1) Any foreigner coming into the Paul Fontaine-Nikolov lives in the desolate into their own hands after becoming tired The joining theme is old souls coming to introduction to the world of graphic country must have a job already waiting north of Iceland with his wife and two of waiting for the bigger corporations to terms with the fruit of science. And the narrative. It is brought out by a small, for them. goldfish. He is the editor of the political lend them a hand. Finally, the comics can title story depicts that nicely. It tells of independent publisher and it is simply 2) This job must be one which no online magazine Apsaras Review, works be understood by all. They are our oldest an old billionaire who, on his deathbed, great to think that the little guys, the national can or will do. (Hence the fish- in a group home for disabled people, and means of expression. comes up with a desperate solution underdogs, can download images into gutting). is currently campaigning to get the U.S. We do not need Esperanto or Occidental, to fight death that might culminate in your brain for loose change. Images that 3) The employer must prove to the to pay reparations to Cambodia. When a wordless comic speaking a truth the destruction of mankind. The will of would cost tens of millions to bring to state that he has tried to find a qualified not doing any of these things, he cooks. universal to all men that will transcend one specimen of our species versus the screen. If that isn’t punk I’d like to and willing national to do the job, before He can be contacted at www.kremenap any and all boundaries. the whole and the logic of its ongoing know what is. hiring the foreigner. ublishing.com. At the heart of comics the heart lies. And existence. It explores the idea of afterlife ragnar egilsson 4) Immigrants work on temporary 30 - the reykjavík grapevine - august 8th - august 21st, 2003

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