The Inside: Pgs. 12-13 A LOHAN FRAGRANCE?/3 B-T-S STARTS SLOW/10-11 RetailWWD Pay WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The THURSDAYRetailers’ Daily Newspaper • August 24, 2006 • $2.00 List Sportswear

Day Shift After interning with New York mainstays Yeohlee Teng and Marc Jacobs, L.A.-based designer Cindy Lee is going it alone. She launched her eponymous collection of fresh, sweetly feminine clothes, which wholesales from $95 to $220, for holiday/ ED BY MAYTE ALLENDE MAYTE ED BY resort, and Neiman Marcus, Barneys New York and Chicago’s Ikram have already snapped it up. And what’s

PRIANO.COM; STYL PRIANO.COM; not to love? Her chic-yet-effortless frocks, tops and are perfect for any city gal, from Manhattan to Malibu. Here, Lee’s cotton and silk . For more new designers, see pages 6 and 7. BY JOSIE TORRES/ARTISTSBYTIMOTHY BY

Vera’s New Partner: Wang Signs With Kohl’s to Launch Very Vera By Lisa Lockwood lifestyle called Very Vera by intimate apparel, handbags,

A/NEXT; HAIR BY KATY YUNG/JUMP; MAKEUP KATY HAIR BY A/NEXT; NEW YORK — After a courtship of Vera Wang, which will be available leather accessories, jewelry, almost two years, Vera Wang has at more than 900 Kohl’s moderate , linens and towels. finally said “I do” to Kohl’s Corp. department stores and kohls.com Terms of the multiyear contract The designer and Kohl’s said beginning in fall 2007. weren’t disclosed, but industry Wednesday that they will team up The multicategory deal sources said the arrangement to create a premium fashion and encompasses women’s apparel, See Vera, Page 4 PHOTO BY TALAYA CENTENO; MODELS: EUGENIY TALAYA PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear FASHION ™ Inspired by vintage frocks, Sixties fl icks and Old Hollywood, designers 6 are launching a quartet of new labels with an eye the past. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL Vera Wang and Kohl’s Corp. are teaming up to create a premium fashion 1 and lifestyle brand called Very Vera by Vera Wang. INSIDE OUTERWEAR Phillips-Van Heusen posted a 23.2 percent jump in second-quarter earn- Variety Abounds in Fall Coats and 3 ings, helped by the performance of the Calvin Klein Licensing business. DISH: Corpus is breaking into women’s denim with androgynous styling “In fashion, one day you’re in and the next to a preference for quality versus fashion, quality 8 and the backing of the investor and factories for Earnest Sewn. day you’re out,” says the hostess of a popular fashion once again triumphed. Fifty-eight percent of BEAUTY: Retail in British airports most affected by the alleged terrorist reality program. The reality for the fall is that out- female respondents said that they would rather buy 14 plot is almost back to normal. --as in outerwear---is in like never before. Varieties that is higher in quality versus fashionable; Despite posting strong quarterly earnings, Chico’s shares fell 17 percent of texture, color and body-conscious silhouettes 37% preferred more fashionable garments. With in post-market trading due to sales and profi t guidance revisions. are creating stylish, functional the endless variety of outerwear 14 outerwear options that are choices this fall, women with suitable for every climate and a fashion penchant for quality ACTIVE body shape. or budget are both assured of As the country gets more casual and gym rats get more fashionable, the Presented as evidence are this having some thing to call their 9 lines between sportswear and activewear are blurring. season’s car coats, poncho-inspired own this season. capes, military jackets, pea coats, In any season, wearability is BEAT denim jackets and cardigans, just a key factor. For early fall, L.L. Teens have been saving their dollars, retailers are ready with the trends to name a few. Silhouettes range Bean has just the ticket. “Our 10 and experts say back-to-school is slowly up and running. from long to short, and all points corduroy and fleece vests in between. Ladylike details and pullovers do really well Classifi ed Advertisements...... 15 with women because they work abound; including ruffles, sashes, To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. eye-catching buttons, belts and great on their own or over other [email protected], using the individual’s name. trims that exude femininity and garments and they work perfectly savvy seasonal dressing. for indoor and outdoor activities,” WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. A sense of newness, particularly offers Gretchen Petrone, Product VOLUME 192, NO. 39. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- Line Manager with L.L. Bean, in a high-visibility garment like a “There’s so much variety out ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- coat, is important to the majority the national retailer. ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, there this fall with so many dif- of women. When asked by the Garments like this may perform Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers ferent decades being reinterpreted Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle so well that women are willing to C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; for a modern and fresh ,” Monitor™ about their typical pay a premium for them. When David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior — Claire Dupuis, asked by the Monitor if they were Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance clothing purchases, 57% of female Cotton Incorporated Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. respondents stated that they were willing to pay more for natural Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. buying new and different; 40% fibers, such as cotton, 59% 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS said that they were replacing current. But, as the answered in the affirmative. ”Our fleece items are CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, experts detail, what’s old is new again in outerwear tried and true classics that we sell quite a lot of,” ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR and there will be a strong mix of the familiar with Henderson concludes. DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. the cutting-edge in fashions, leaving every woman In addition to fleece vests, expect to see plenty Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other with something to feel warm about. of other transitional garments. “Lightweight U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. “There’s so much variety toppers, velvet pea coats, First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions out there this fall with so denim officer’s jackets, and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To many different decades Typical New Clothing Purchase coats, chunky subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make being reinterpreted for a knit cardigans, shrugs and our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise modern and fresh look,” Buying New and Different 57% shawls are fabulous options us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. offers Claire Dupuis, a that look great and provide WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- Replacing Current 40% SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- Senior Product Trend a much needed layer of ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, Analyst with Cotton warmth when it’s not cold OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED Incorporated. “This season, it’s all about enough for a true winter coat,” adds Thompson silhouette, with plenty of generous cuts, especially from Talbots. bell-inspired shapes.” “Outerwear has a sensual quality this season; “We’re seeing lots of capes and cape coats that are we are seeing lots of textures,” Pappas from Eva In Brief stylish and flowing,” confirms Stephanie Pappas, a tells. That feeling also translates to this season’s co-owner of the chic boutique, Eva, in downtown color palettes, as Pappas details, “There’s a distinct Manhattan. But there is a body-conscious tailoring attention to earthy colors, like burgundies, browns, ● PHILIPPINES TRANSSHIP MENTS: The U.S. and the Philip- to the silhouettes as well. “There’s a definite and greens, mixed in with some brights”. Says pines agreed to work together to combat illegal apparel and attention to the waist, so you will see a cape-like Thompson from Talbot’s, “You can’t go wrong textile transshipments — the receiving and then reshipping of goods from a third country, such as China, to get around trade cut with a belt. We are also seeing a lot of short with go-to shades like black, chocolate and camel, barriers. U.S. Trade Representative Susan Schwab, who signed jackets being used as outerwear in the early part but muted tones like ruby, amethyst and deep the pact with Philippines Secretary of Trade & Industry Peter of the season, and then as part of an outfit under a teal provide must-have newness.” Henderson Favila, said the agreement, which will boost customs coopera- true coat in the colder months.” from Chuck Roast offers his interpretation of this tion, would help safeguard and promote legitimate trade be- “The long cape cardigan as a throw or a shawl season’s important colors, which reads like a dessert tween the countries. makes a great early fall coat and we are doing really menu, “Espresso, blackberry and cherry.” well with that,” adds Tess Enright, a co-owner of The insiders on outerwear agree that this fall ● DMC PROMOTES DUMAS: The Dallas Market Center has pro- offers a rich variety of silhouettes, textures and moted Steve Dumas to vice president of marketing operations, the Boston- based Tess and Carlos. “It’s a clean look a new division at the company. A 15-year veteran of the DMC and I am always advising my clients that simple is colors that are sure to please the most discriminating who most recently managed the Web site as senior director of best. It makes good fashion and economic sense.” shopper. . From warding off the autumn chill on interactive marketing, Dumas will oversee marketing informa- Betsy Thompson, Director of Public Relations their own, to providing a fashionable layer under tion systems and market services, which formerly fell under the for Talbots, the national retailer, agrees. “Women, a winter coat, this fall’s vests, cardigans and jackets finance division. He is charged with implementing a fast-pass particularly those of us in frost states, see traditional of every length are giving women choices for the system to speed buyer registration, streamlining the process by coats and jackets as long-term investments we can season and beyond. which retailers are qualified to enter the wholesale complex and blanket ourselves in over multiple seasons.” This story is one in a series of articles based on find- developing new features within the market travel system to help buyers. Dumas reports to Jane Robertson, senior vice president Women have long played a tug-of-war of sorts ings from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ of marketing. in the of value: price or quality? According tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these to the Monitor, quality slightly edges out price in pages, each story will focus on a specific topic as it ● FURTHER EXPANSION: Forth & Towne plans to open stores in women’s opinions. Fifty-three percent of female relates to the American consumer and her attitudes November in the Otay Ranch Town Center in Chula Vista, which respondents stated that they would pay more for and behavior regarding clothing, is being developed southeast of San Diego, and in the Paseo better quality, while 45% stated that they were appearance, fashion, fiber selection and Nuevo outdoor center in Santa Barbara. Forth & Towne, the year- willing to sacrifice a little quality. When it came many other timely, relevant subjects. old division of Gap Inc. catering to women 35 and older, has fi ve stores operating and expects to have 19 up and running by the end of the year. WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 24, 2006 3 WWD.COM Chloé Taps Hill as Accessories Consultant Calvin Klein Brand

CHLOE HAS NOT FORMALLY NAMED A both Collection and Marc by Marc Jacobs ac- successor to designer Phoebe Philo, but it cessories. She also had design stints at Liz Lifts PVH 2Q Profit has tapped a familiar name to help with the Claiborne and Calvin Klein. brand’s important accessories collection. Chloé chairman and chief executive Ralph By Vicki M. Young Emma Hill is joining the fashion house as an Toledano said of the hire: “We needed to reinforce Emanuel accessories consultant. Hill was Gap Inc.’s vice our team given the rapid growth of accessories.” hillips-Van Heusen Corp. Chirico president of adult accessories design. She was Under Philo, the French house’s accessories Pon Wednesday posted a hired at Gap in 2002 by then-senior vice presi- businesses took off, with coveted handbag de- 23.2 percent jump in second- dent for adult product development and design signs such as the Silverado, the Edith and the quarter earnings, helped Pina Ferlisi. At Gap, she combed the brand’s ar- Paddington. Philo left the company in January by the performance of the chives and developed looks that were iconic to to focus on her family. Calvin Klein Licensing busi- the brand. Hill could not be reached for comment, ness, which was strong due Hill and Ferlisi left the retailer last October. but according to sources, she will be based in to growth from existing and Before Gap, Hill was a senior designer for ac- London, and the fi rst accessories collection with new licenses and, in partic- cessories at Marc Jacobs, where she handled her on board will be for fall 2007. ular, the women’s Euphoria fragrance business. “The strength of the Calvin Klein brand and our The award is meant to honor a marquee artist who has execution of the strategies made a recent jump to the fi lm world. Cave is up for we have implemented for screenwriting the Australian epic “The Proposition,” that brand continue to fuel Fashion Scoops while Christensen is nominated for her acting role earnings increases in our in the Danish drama “Allegro.” Douglas Gordon and Calvin Klein men’s better EAU DE LINDSAY?: Chalk up another Hollywood entry to Philippe Parreno, the co-directors of a documentary on sportswear, Calvin Klein the fragrance scene. At a party for designer Brian -butting French soccer star Zinedine Zidane, called outlet retail and, notably, Atwood at the Chateau Marmont in West Hollywood “Zidane, un portrait du 21e siecle,” are also up for the Calvin Klein Licensing busi- Tuesday night, Lindsay Lohan revealed she is in talks award. The other two nominees are Gregory Colbert, who ness,” Emanuel Chirico, with Coty to do her own fragrance. directed and screen wrote the chief executive offi cer, said Lohan added that no name had naturalist documentary “Ashes in a statement. been decided upon and that and Snow,” and Alain Robbe- For the three months the fi nal deal had not yet been Grillet, who directed the French ended July 30, net income inked. Coty executives declined to thriller “C’est Gravida Qui Vous rose to $29 million, or 33 confi rm or deny Lohan’s claim on Appelle.” cents a diluted share, from $23.5 million, or 16 cents, a year ago. Wednesday: “We don’t comment Revenues increased 3.5 percent, to $458.9 million from $443.5 on rumors,” said a spokeswoman. THE ROC POPS UP: is million, which included a sales gain of 2.4 percent, to $407.1 A Lohan-Coty tie-up would make about to pop up where it’s least million, and an 18.4 percent increase in royalty revenues, to sense, though, since the beauty expected. $38.7 million. fi rm already handles the lion’s The company, run by hip-hop For the six months, net income jumped 60.3 percent, to $77.7 share of celebrity fragrance mogul Jay-Z, is planning to take million, or $1.27 a diluted share, from $48.5 million, or 67 cents, licenses — including those of over the Training Camp footwear in the year-ago period. Revenues for the six months rose 5.4 Jennifer Lopez, Sarah Jessica store at 1079 Sixth Avenue percent, to $965.4 million from $915.6 million, which included a Parker, Kimora Lee Simmons, Celine in Manhattan and turn it into sales gain of 5 percent, to $861.3 million from $820.7 million. Dion and Shania Twain. a Rocawear fan’s retail dream “Our strategy of marketing our nationally recognized But at least one of Lohan’s for two weeks. The temporary across multiple channels of distribution continues to benefi t new ventures is certain: The Rocawear boutique, called our bottom line….We remain focused on maximizing the growth actress plans to open her own The Roc Pop Shop, will open opportunities for Calvin Klein and our wholesale businesses. vintage boutique in Paris. She next Wednesday and return to Further, the continued strengthening of our balance sheet en- already has masses of Yves Saint Training Camp’s regular format ables us to support these initiatives as well as look for addi- Laurent and other designer frocks by Sept. 16. The Rocawear team tional vehicles for future growth,” Chirico added. in storage. Given the rate that she is gutting the store, redesigning PVH provided third-quarter earnings per share guidance in burns through clothes, it’s only it — complete with a skull- the range of 80 cents to 82 cents, compared with 73 cents in the natural that she recycle them. and-crossbones chandelier and comparable 2005 period, and projected full-year EPS at $2.46 to plasma-screen TVs — and fi lling $2.50, versus $1.85 in 2005. MOTOR MAN: Seeing Emanuele it with hard-to-fi nd and limited- The company will host a conference call for Wall Street ana- Della Valle, son of Tod’s SpA edition Rocawear products for lysts today at 11 a.m. chairman and chief executive men, women and children. offi cer Diego Della Valle, tooling Training Camp will have to take around Long Island in his 1974 its apparel out of the store to Chevrolet Monte Carlo, one make room for Rocawear, but the wouldn’t exactly take him for regular sneaker collection will Jones Apparel Continues a Jaguar man. But the affable still be available for sale. “It will Italian insists he’s an avid fan, be the VMA’s [MTV’s Video Music because “two of the coolest Awards] and Fashion Week, so people that ever walked the earth there’s no better time or place to Operation Reorganization both drove Jaguars. One was present this concept,” said Jameel Steve McQueen and the other Spencer, chief marketing offi cer at JONES APPAREL GROUP, WHICH HAS ALREADY SHUTTERED was my grandfather, Doro.” In Rocawear. “It’s a marketing retail its distribution center at its Bristol, Pa., headquarters, is in the honor of this, the Tod’s-owned Lindsay Lohan experience and really speaks to process of shutting its preproduction operations. Hogan has partnered with the who we are and what we want to The operations include the departments that focus on pat- British automaker on “Drive present.” making and sample production. Gorgeous,” a road trip-cum-scavenger hunt happening While The Roc Pop Shop will sell limited-edition According to the company’s chief fi nancial offi cer, Thimio today. Hamptons denizens like Kelly Bensimon, Amanda items, like a $300 fur hat and custom men’s wear, it Sotos, the women’s apparel giant has four sites within the Hearst and Euan Rellie and Lucy Sykes will set out will also offer new spring merchandise. Bristol complex, an industrial park that is also home to several across the island. The course begins at the Bouvier Training Camp, owned by Udi Avshalom, has become other companies not connected to Jones. estate on Further Lane in East Hampton, continues known in the hip-hop community for offering hard-to- The distribution center which was closed in December still through Montauk and concludes with a giant clambake fi nd footwear from brands ranging from Nike to Phat houses some offi ce workers, which the company is trying to re- back in East Hampton. Of course, this is not just Farm. It has become a must-visit for such stars as Sean locate within its other Bristol offi ces. It is in the process of try- about the need for speed. At dinner, drivers will be “P. Diddy” Combs, Wu-Tang Clan and Jay-Z. ing to sublease the space at the former distribution center. given a limited-edition Hogan “Jag Bag,” While Jones does have executive offi ces in Manhattan, its featuring the automobile’s symbol. They also plan is to keep Bristol as the company’s fi nancial and admin- will be available at retail in select Hogan istrative hub, Sotos said. According to the company’s annual fl agships worldwide. Delle Valle, who has report, or Form 10-K fi led with the Securities and Exchange been spending his summer in a rental in Commission earlier this year, Jones also has other administra- Amangansett with his wife, jovially dismisses tive offi ce facilities at Bristol, aside from the former distribu- the whole affair as little more than something tion center. The company has two 15-year net leases that run to keep him busy. “It’s a midsummer through March and October 2013, the fi ling said. project,” he says. Meanwhile, the company has been and will continue to shed jobs connected with its preproduction operations. The company HONOR ROLL: Gucci Group president and has already notifi ed affected employees, and will provide sever- chief executive offi cer Robert Polet is ance benefi ts in accordance with the company’s existing policy. preparing to head to the Venice Film Festival Following completion of the restructuring, Jones will still and bestow the company’s new cinema award house at least 500 employees at Bristol. Key corporate, fi nan- at a ceremony Sept. 7. The names of the fi ve cial and administrative departments — such as accounting, tax, Gucci Group Award nominees will be released human resources, customer service, management and informa- next week, but the list includes rocker Nick A rendering of The tion systems and logistics — will remain at the Bristol facility. Cave and supermodel Helena Christensen. Roc Pop Shop. — V.M.Y. 4 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 24, 2006 WWD.COM Vera Says ‘I Do’ to Kohl’s Continued from page one produce the women’s apparel. It is could develop into a $500 million Vera Wang and widely believed, however, that Wang business for Kohl’s by the third year. Kevin Mansell will enter into a production deal with Wang will receive both an upfront on Wednesday. Regatta for the apparel production. payment and royalties from Kohl’s “We think very highly of Haim,” and could personally reap about said Wang. Dabah declined comment $100 million over the length of the Wednesday. contract, said sources. Mansell said the Wang collec- The deal ends a nearly two-year tions will be supported by national period during which Wang was wooed TV, local TV, inserts, the Internet and by several suitors, including Jones magazine advertising. “There’s not a Apparel Group, Liz Claiborne Inc. single piece [of Kohl’s marketing pro- and even St. John for assorted deals gram] that Vera won’t be part of,” said ranging, respectively, from a better Mansell. sportswear line to an outright acqui- He declined to divulge how big a sition to becoming creative director. business Wang will be for Kohl’s, but Wang, whose high-end bridal, said Vera’s lines will have their own ready-to-wear and licensing business section of the store, and will also be generates $225 million at wholesale, merchandised with other brands, i.e., is the latest major designer to tap into Very Vera towels in the linens and the lucrative mainstream market. For towels area. years, the designer has expressed a “We won’t project how big a busi- strong desire to offer more affordable ness this will become. It’s very, very products to a wider audience, and she big,” said Mansell. said Wednesday that was the impetus Wang said she has been working to- behind the Kohl’s deal. ward this goal for many years, and has “I can become a more iconic informed her retail partners. American brand and be exposed to “They understand what my goal is America in a larger sense,” said Wang and have been supportive. We’ve been in an interview at her offi ces here. in business for almost 20 years, and “Some of my frustration is I work we’ve built up a brand. We’ve built a very hard at the upper end with certain name recognition and a trust all the resources and intellectual and confi dence from the consumer. thought processes and it’s a very Anything that we’ve tackled and tried challenging thing to do, but more to start, we’ve given the same design women can’t wear it and it will never integrity to anything we’ve done.” reach them.” Mansell said Kohl’s conducted ex- She said she began offering fra- tensive consumer research before grances so women can get the es- signing with Wang. And Wang herself sence of what Wang is about for $85. visited many Kohl’s stores throughout Today, her fragrance business, li- the country doing her due diligence. censed to Coty Prestige Inc., garners “She has incredibly high brand $100 million at retail, according to awareness and it all came down to industry sources. women saying, ‘I can’t afford it,’’’ said Wang seems almost embarrassed Mansell. He said consumers know her by the high prices her Collection name from her successful wedding commands. “To work with $100-a- gown business and the fact that celeb- yard fabric and $200 embroideries is rities are often seen in her creations an elitist world. I value it and adore on the red carpet. “There’s a trust in it,” she said, but she also wants to the brand,” he said. dress women from all walks of life He explained that their research with different lifestyles. focused on asking women what they Wang’s Collection retails from thought of being able to buy Vera $395 to $5,000 and is sold in 80 doors, Wang at Kohl’s. “It got most of us while her lavender label contem- thinking this could be really big,” said porary apparel ranges from $350 Mansell. to $1,000 and is sold in 300 doors. For her part, Wang said, “This Her bridal gowns, sold in 100 doors, gives me the opportunity to grow an start at $2,500 and “the sky’s the American iconic brand and one that limit,” said Wang, who has designed infl uences people’s lives in a much bridal gowns for celebrities such broader sense. It doesn’t mean I don’t as Jennifer Lopez, Jennifer Garner, love a $12,000 cocktail dress,” she Kate Hudson and Jessica Simpson. said, but she wants to translate that

Kevin Mansell, president of THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY to things she feels are attainable to Kohl’s, explained that throughout people. the lengthy negotiations with Wang, While she loves designing high-end all the conversations had a common apparel, Wang said she’s excited about ground. “She has had a desire to fi g- This gives me the opportunity to grow an American the prospect of having more fun with ure out how her style can be avail- “ fashion. able to more people, and our primary iconic brand and one that infl uences people’s lives in a “The Collection business is deadly objective as a company has been to serious, and it’s not even fun. There’s broaden the reach of what we offer, much broader sense. so much responsibility with it. We de- reach a broader consumer base and vote a tremendous amount of resourc- give the consumer we have more op- ” — Vera Wang es to Collection. The fabric costs are tions for their wardrobes,” he said. huge. This is very fun and spirited, Mansell explained that Kohl’s ap- and I’ll get to do some lifestyle things. parel strategy revolves around a good-better-best mer- ing to sources, and an agreement with the Estée Lauder I’ll do wonderful white shirts, great little skirts and chandising plan that focuses on different fashion profi les. Cos. Inc. for fragrances, skin care and color cosmetics great little jackets,” said Wang. She said she’ll offer a The Very Vera lines will be designed to reach the upper- under fi ve brands, including American Beauty. group of items “with a fashion fl air.” most segment of Kohl’s modern women’s offerings. According to Mansell, Wang will serve as the design “We’ll certainly have the trends and I’ll bring my own Currently, the highest priced “classic” women’s line inspiration and style guide for the Very Vera brand. unique twist to it, with a sense of detail,” she said. at the department store — and the biggest launch in “Our job is to make all the decisions about sourcing and As she has built her company for the past 17 years, its history — is Chaps. Retail prices range from $49.50 deliver it to consumers,” he said, as well as develop pre- Wang said she’s been greatly infl uenced by designers to $69.50 for , pants and skirts and $79.50 to sentations and marketing programs. “Our job will be to such as Ralph Lauren and Giorgio Armani. “I’ve seen $119.50 for jackets. Mansell said retail prices for Very determine who will produce these goods.” all these people do such brilliant things with their busi- Vera haven’t been set yet, but they will be higher. He said several of Wang’s 10 designer licensees may nesses. They fi nd an audience at many price points and “The way we see each brand developing, it’s a step be approached to do a lower-tier collection. with every retailer. I feel very fortunate, but it doesn’t up, not a leap,” said Mansell. Mansell said it hasn’t been determined who will preclude the intense investments at the upper end.” Nor “We see it as our premier brand that focuses on a be responsible for sourcing the women’s apparel. In will her choice to go with Kohl’s stop her from doing a modern sense of style,” he added. “Vera’s got a great February 2004, Haim Dabah, chairman and chief execu- separate bridge line for department stores someday. fashion sense and a point of view that reaches people. tive offi cer of Regatta Pacifi c Alliance, was spotted at “I was very fl attered to be approached by some of We’ll rely on her to guide us.” the Vera Wang fashion show, stirring speculation that he the best companies in America — Jones, St. John and Kohl’s also has a successful deal with Daisy Fuentes was looking to make a deal with the designer and Kohl’s. Liz Claiborne. No two deals were the same. It [the for modern women’s apparel, accessories and fragranc- Mansell confi rmed Dabah brought Wang to Kohl’s atten- Kohl’s deal] was a plan I had in my heart, not just in es, which is approaching $250 million at retail, accord- tion, but it hasn’t been decided whether Regatta will my head.”

6 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 24, 2006 Past, PresentNew Kids on the Block and Inspired by vintage frocks, Sixties fl icks or Old Hollywood, designers are looking back to launch a quartet of new labels. By Venessa Lau TY YUNG/JUMP; MAKEUP BY ROANNA BALES/MAKEUP FOREVER AND JOSIE TORRES/ARTISTSBYTIMOTHYPRIANO.COM TY YUNG/JUMP; MAKEUP BY

Kate and Kass’ stretch linen dress. Mooka Kinney’s cotton tunic. Hue socks and Fays . Louis Vuitton shoes. MODELS: LINA/ID, KRISTINA/TRUMP AND VANESSA/MAJOR; HAIR BY RIAD AZAR/L’OREAL PROFESSIONNEL, SUZANNE KATZ/KRAMER + KRAMER AND KA + KRAMER PROFESSIONNEL, SUZANNE KATZ/KRAMER RIAD AZAR/L’OREAL MODELS: LINA/ID, KRISTINA/TRUMP AND VANESSA/MAJOR; HAIR BY

Designer: Anya Teresse for Kate and Kass by her obsession with old Hollywood fi lms — a Designer: Rachel Antonoff, 24, and Hometown: Los Angeles childhood enthusiasm sparked by the fact that Alison Lewis, 23, for Mooka Kinney Backstory: Before launching Kate and Kass her mother is a former actress and her father, a Hometown: Although both live in New for spring 2006, Teresse spent seven years in movie producer. York, Lewis calls Kansas City, Mo., home costume design, working on indie fi lms such The collection: There’s a decidedly Sixties feel to while Antonoff hails from New Jersey. as “Art School Confi dential” and “Friends the current collection — cute baby-doll Backstory: Antonoff was working in With Money.” “I started making a lot of my and Mod-ish tops accented with vintage crochet public relations at Rebecca Taylor when clothes just for fun,” she says. “People kept trims, scalloped edges or sweet bows. Think Mia she met Lewis, a graphic designer who telling me to start my own line and eventually Farrow in “Rosemary’s Baby” or Julie Christie in wanted to rent a room in her West 12th I did.” The collection’s name, Kate and Kass, “Darling.” Street apartment. The two bonded over comes from her parents’ nicknames, but she Stats: Wholesale prices range from $85 to $105. a love of thrift-store frocks, and, believe owes more to them than this simple moniker. So far, the L.A. boutiques Milk and Diavolina carry it or not, unicorns and wood sprites. Teresse’s designs, in fact, are mainly inspired Teresse’s full line. That shared sensibility was the impulse WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 24, 2006 7 WWD.COM

Designer: Maria MB Beach Couture’s nylon Buccellati for MB Beach and spandex boyshorts and Couture rayon and cotton T-. Hometown: Miami, but Buccellati has long considered Milan home; she’s married to Andrea Buccellati of the Buccellati Italian jewelry Futu re house. Backstory: Former model Buccellati is a fi gure familiar to those on the swimwear circuit — she’s co-founder of Piedras, a swimsuit line that made a splash in 2001 with its bikinis and maillots encrusted with semiprecious stones. Now, after fi ve years with partner Paula Berger, Buccellati is branching out with her own collection: MB Beach Couture. “My experience [at Piedras] has changed me completely,” she says. “I view my designs in a more simplifi ed way.” The collection: Buccellati notes that embellishments are integral to the new line but rather than jewels, she’s using bone, raffi a and mother-of-pearl accents. Of course, this doesn’t mean that the looks are any less glam. Take, for example, MB Beach Couture’s brushed silver and bronze patchwork animal print pieces. Stats: While the swimsuits range from $88 to $350, wholesale, the entire line — including items such as caftans, dresses, T-shirts and wraps — is priced from $55 to $380. Retail outlets include Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus, as well as specialty stores Mirage in Monte Carlo and Aizel in Moscow.

Lizalde’s silk crepe de chine slip. Cesare Designer: Ricky Lizalde for Lizalde Paciotti shoes. Hometown: Escondido, Calif., now based in New York. Backstory: In the early Nineties when Lizalde started his studies at Cal State Long Beach, the thought never crossed his mind that he would one day design . “I went to school to be a dancer,” he says. And even though he ended up studying costume design, Lizalde moved to New York after graduation to perform with a dance company, dabbling in fashion by creating ensembles for the troupe. Fast-forward to 2006, however, and the 34-year- old is launching his own innerwear collection after long stints designing lingerie for marquee names Valentino at Warnaco, Oscar de la Renta and Vera Wang. The collection: “Modern vintage” is the phrase Lizalde uses to describe his Alison Lewis and line. Indeed, there’s a certain Old Hollywood Rachel Antonoff sweetness in his designs emphasized by a notable attention to detail. Cases in point: the behind Mooka Kinney, a line of ahead, call the line childlike — the delicately covered buttons, carefully beribboned tightly edited vintage-inspired designers don’t shy away from the necklines and lace trims, which he designs dresses currently in its fi rst season. word. “When people get older, the himself. The collection: Named after excitement and character goes out Stats: Wholesale prices range from $35 for Antonoff’s Maltese dog, the Mooka of clothing,” explains Antonoff. silk tap pants to $99 for a silk georgette gown Kinney collection is playful and “We always see these little kids and $150 for a cotton waffl e robe. Saks Fifth charming, with a wide-eyed girlish in jumpers and we wish they [the Avenue, Fred Segal and Ron Herman in L.A. and appeal. There are fi ve dress shapes outfi ts] were bigger.” Henri Bendel in Manhattan have placed orders. done up in colorful prints that range Stats: Mooka Kinney’s line of from a swan-patterned baby doll dresses wholesales for $100 to to a strawberry-fl ecked suspender $125 and will be available at dress. Even the buttons are cute: I Heart in Manhattan, Milk in L.A.

heart-, pony- and deer-shaped. Go and Barneys New York. ALLENDE MAYTE ERICKSEN; STYLED BY CENTENO AND KYLE TALAYA PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 24, 2006 WWD.COM Denim Dish Bitton Tests Europe David Bitton, the Canadian denim brand known as Buffalo in the U.S., is dipping its toe into the European market with a temporary Corpus’ Feminine Touch guerrilla store that opened late last month on London’s Carnaby Street. Men’s wear label Corpus aims to break into the com- The 320-square-foot shop jostles for custom- petitive women’s denim market by combining androgy- ers’ attention on a street that plays host to denim nous styling with support from the investor and facto- brands such as Miss Sixty, Pepe, Lee and Fornarina. ries that produce premium jeans label Earnest Sewn. But the company hopes the temporary nature of Founded by Jerrod Cornish and Keith Richardson the store, and the artists’ and illustrators’ work it in 2003, the Los Angeles-based Corpus is launching its showcases, will set it apart from the competition. women’s business this fall with cigarette leg jeans in “We wanted to be able to offer something dif- six treatments and a jersey legging with stirrups. For ferent, and Carnaby Street has so much history the spring collection, the brand will add an above- and attracts a discerning customer,” said Onita the-knee short and a skinny style with a leg opening Prasada, director of David Bitton in the U.K. an inch narrower than the cigarette model’s. and Europe, who secured a short-term lease for Corpus is experimenting with a variety of washes, the store. “We’ve tested the market here with including a lavender acid wash for the skinny style, a wholesale accounts, but the store gives the cus- peach hue for the short and a gray wash for the ciga- tomer a better sense of the David Bitton brand, rette leg. The jeans are made in Los Angeles in some as well as a bigger selection of pieces.” of the same factories that make Earnest Sewn’s gar- Delicate cutout illustrations of corsets and ments. PYA Canada, the fi nancial backer of Earnest lingerie by illustrator Jennifer Rogers are spread Sewn, holds a 50 percent stake in Corpus. throughout the shop, in contrast with heavy But Corpus isn’t trying to mimic Earnest Sewn. wooden beams with silver bolts that run across While the connection with PYA Canada and Earnest the ceiling and give a sense of the store being Sewn reassures retailers, Corpus’ background in men’s under construction. The company is in talks with wear helps it tap the growing trend for slim silhouettes several other artists to exhibit at the store. Bitton’s temporary evoking the Mod Sixties and post-Punk Eighties. Prasada said how well the brand’s fi rst store in London unit. Corpus has booked orders from more than 15 re- Europe performs will determine whether the com- tailers, including American Rag, Ron Herman and pany invests in a permanent space in London. “With a drop [delivery] every month, there’s always Satine, for the fall “The response so far has been pretty good and a freshness in the stores, which keeps customers on collection, which has met our expectations,” she said, although she de- their toes,” she said. begins shipping clined to provide a sales prediction. To further raise awareness, the store has held Aug. 30. David Bitton is sold at 120 stores across the U.K. events for customers and press to meet the artists who “They seem to and 100 across Europe. However, Prasada acknowl- will exhibit there, and plans more of them before the be pushing the edged that compared with the U.S. and Canada, shop closes in October. envelope in the awareness of the brand was low. “There’s no formula to marketing the brand in denim cut,” said Prasada said the fi t of David Bitton jeans, which each country,” said Prasada. “The ethos of the brand Carly Willis, a retail in the U.K. for the equivalent of $168 to $340, is to make David Bitton as different as it needs to be buyer for Satine kept fi rst-time customers coming back, along with fre- in each different environment.” in Los Angeles. quently changing stock. — Nina Jones “They took the skinny leg to a new level. They made it even skinnier than the stovepipe we’re The Royal Treatment For spring seeing right now.” 2007, Willis said she YMI Jeanswear is making a bid to expand into the Corpus is ordered Corpus’ contemporary market this holiday season with the offering cigarette style in introduction of a line dubbed Royalty. cigarette dark indigo, jet David Vered, president of the Los Angeles denim jeans in a black, cracked manufacturer, said the company’s core junior line gray wash gray and cor- had reached a level of development that made him and an duroy to add to comfortable enough to branch out and approach an oversized the store’s other older demographic. hooded vest denim labels, in- “We wanted to create another line that has all the in cotton cluding Earnest design elements from the contemporary world, but bring it down to do a level that jersey. Sewn, Tsubi and gives the customers more for their money and a Rogan. In addition different look,” said Vered. to liking Corpus’ He’s confi dent the core YMI customer, typically street vibe, Willis between the ages of 14 and 24, will graduate into said the new line’s Royalty, which is targeted at 17- to 29-year-olds. prices were $40 “That would be the core of that business. It to $50 lower than will be more of the mature young woman looking those of other for a little more sophisticated look,” he said, add- brands. The price ing fi ts would be tighter and rises lower.

PHOTO BY TYLER BOYE PHOTO BY difference could Vered is also looking to tap what he believes sway shoppers is an underserved price segment of the denim in- who are choosing between Corpus and a more ex- dustry; retail prices for the line range from $78 pensive label with a similar fi t, she said, adding, to $96. “It’ll give them an edge.” “I believe it’s a unique share of the market,” he Cornish said the company will lower wholesale said. “They are not the jeans for everyone, but are prices to $65 to $90 for spring from $82 to $95 this not the premium expensive.” fall. Sales are expected to reach $1.2 million at Carl Jones, YMI’s head of design, said the ini- wholesale this year and grow to $2 million to $2.5 tial line consists of 15 pieces in the prominent leg million next year, and Cornish believes the women’s styles in the market, including a boot cut, a twisted business alone could hit $1 million in sales in 2007. fl are and a straight leg. A denim for the line was Corpus also plans to offer roomy hooded sweat- developed in Hong Kong to meet quality and pric- shirts and long vests in gray, eggplant, black-and- ing standards. The line’s six to eight washes have royal blue stripes and other colors to the women’s been given royal names such as Charles, Elizabeth, collection next spring. Cornish said the cotton jer- Catherine and Macbeth. sey tops were deliberately priced low at $20 to $35. Jones has divided Royalty into three tiers, “You want people to be able to buy more than differentiated by design elements such as back one piece,” he said. pocket design, wash, stitching and hardware. The Richardson said he envisions designing button- core basic segment features a crown point back-pocket design. The next level up, down woven shirts for women and gradually evolv- embellished, has more standout details such as studs, nailheads and embroidery, ing into a full collection, in the same way the men’s while the luxe segment is distinguished by leather back-pocket details. business has grown. Since introducing T-shirts, one Royalty will make its debut at next week’s MAGIC trade show in Las Vegas jeans style in seven washes and a denim blazer and start appearing in stores in November, and Vered expects a strong response three years ago, Corpus has expanded the men’s to the line’s twisted-fl are styles. Vered is targeting distribution at better depart- line to include trench-style jackets, button-down ment stores and specialty boutiques. woven shirts, 12-gauge cashmere cardigans and He is looking to accommodate the company’s expansion with a new show- three-piece seersucker suits. Richardson is also op- Two looks from room large enough to give the company’s preteen, junior and contemporary timistic that women will continue to buy jeans. YMI’s new lines their own dedicated space. He is negotiating for a 5,000-square-foot show- “They’re not going to stop wearing them,” he said. Royalty line. room in New York and hopes to have it completed by the end of the year. — Khanh T.L. Tran — Ross Tucker WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 24, 2006 9 WWD.COM Active Lifestyle Merging Performance and Fashion By Whitney Beckett Fashion-focused lines, particularly Although 80 percent of wom- and ceo. “We are not walking away from big-name collaborations like ’ with en’s sales come from basic black performance, but we aren’t shouting it, ei- s the country gets more casual and McCartney and ’s with Johansson, and white pieces, the fashion ther. This is a very radical shift from how Agym rats get more fashionable, the can have positive effects on the whole elements extended the brand’s the industry has focused on performance.” lines between sportswear and activewear brand. At Everlast, the collabora- appeal, according to Bill Although half of ’s stockkeeping are blurring. tion that introduced Norma Kamali Kraus, ’s se- units are built for performance, 80 per- As sportswear companies enter the Everlast this year “makes people look nior vice president of mar- cent of its product sales come from the athletic and customers look to ac- at our regular line a little differently,” keting. fashion lifestyle side. tive companies to dress them outside the said managing director Dion Hild. “There still is that core “Even if you anchor yourself in per- gym, athletic apparel companies are hav- “Everlast is moving toward being a essence of the brand that formance, there’s more volume in sports ing to reexamine the balance of perfor- lifestyle brand,” said a Norma Kamali existed in the fi rst season, lifestyle,” said Kristin Kohler, Fila gen- mance and fashion. Everlast spokeswoman. “It’s not just Norma but we also found [our fe- eral manager and vice president of global “It would be foolish to think that per- in the ring anymore.” Kamali male customer] is probably product. “That’s where the consumer is.” formance gear can’t be fashion-forward The traditional Everlast active- Everlast looking for something a But Fila maintains that no matter how and that fashionable pieces can’t be func- wear still puts performance fi rst and little more in fashion as it many of its products are used outside the tional,” said a Nike spokeswoman. finds its fashion in relates to the silhouettes gym, it will focus on its performance DNA. Paiva, a high-end women’s athletic function. Everlast de- and the colors,” Kraus said. “The only point of difference we have store, began four months ago to fi ll what signer Stefanie Seitz “I still remember when we fi rst compared with a Kenneth Cole or a Diesel it perceived as a consumer need by offer- uses performance started having conversations or a DKNY, who are all making active sports- ing stylish activewear options. According details, such as mesh here about whether we should wear, is that we are a performance sport to Jeff Pofsky, Paiva’s vice president and insets and iPod pock- have pink product. It didn’t feel brand,” Kohler said. “If you lose that, you re- general merchandise manager, Nike, ets, to create a mod- on-brand, but it’s ally lose that point of view. There are signs Adidas, Fila, and Under Armour ern aesthetic. amazing what it that the low-profi le look could be trending are all making lines that smartly combine “If you are a has done, even down. What does that mean for whole com- function and fashion. fashionable woman, just as the lining panies that have built their strength on that “These companies are becoming much you should be able of a garment. But look and not on performance?” more savvy in the ways they are putting to look fashionable performance is Even small active companies must bal- the lines together,” Pofsky said. all the time in all still our calling ance fashion and performance. Richard One way is enlisting big-name design- of your activities,” card.” Cohen, who owns the active brand AMMA, ers from the fashion world. Erin Isakov, owner Sometimes is adding a more lifestyle-oriented collec- “There is no doubt we have pushed and designer of lifestyle atten- tion this month to his performance lineup. boundaries and created something that Erin Snow, which tion can feed “There are only two ways to expand had not been out there,” said Heike Leibl, entered the market athletic cred- your business: through products or head of product for Adidas by Stella as a fashion-focused ibility, noted through paths of distribution,” Cohen McCartney (for more on this collection, ski line in fall 2003 An ad for Powell. said. “This line opens not only products, see story, this page). “It’s like a wave that and is adding a full . “Puma is a but also levels of stores we could sell to.” starts somewhere and brings a lot of peo- ready-to-wear line terrific fashion Wearing activewear as sportswear can ple into motion.” this year. “Our point Adidas’ Y-3. athletic brand also save money. Adidas by Stella McCartney launched of view was fashion. that is trading “Our market has been taught to build in 2005 and has brought cachet and atten- The same we on a perceived, a lot of value into our products because tion to the athletic company, while also sell to Paragon, we sell to Searle.” or rather re- women don’t want to spend a lot to sweat, infl uencing the way it thinks about fusing “We know there is just as much psychol- membered, au- so we have learned to make everything fashion and performance in its other lines, ogy of speed that is as important as the thenticity,” he very durable and at a very reasonable price including the new Fuse and Adilibria. science of speed,” said Sheree Waterson, said. “Puma is going in the right direc- point,” said Danskin ceo Carol Hochman. Adidas has three divisions: sports perfor- president of Speedo. “Feeling your best is tion after having established itself as a Danskin compiles a catalogue of active mance that includes the McCartney line, as important as the physical function.” performance lifestyle brand.” items that could be worn as sportswear sports heritage and sports style, which in- With its identity as a performance The bulk of Puma’s business is life- for contemporary stores, but is not enter- cludes Y-3, the sportswear collaboration brand well established, Speedo has been style, with performance and fashion on ei- taining thoughts of entering the sports- with designer Yohji Yamamoto. focusing on its fashion reputation for the ther extreme contributing smaller slices. wear business “because this is what we “Fashion and performance are not last few years. The company has intro- “The performance sport aspect gives do,” Hochman added. separate anymore,” Leibl said. “Our con- duced a line of activewear that includes us credibility and the fashion aspect The dance apparel company is open to sumer does not have to compromise one corseted tops and has even given the tra- gives us relevance,” said Barney Waters, collaborations with designers. Hochman for the other.” ditional swim team suit a sexy back. the German brand’s vice president of said she has been approached by several Meanwhile, Adidas executives have said “We are unleashing the potential, marketing. “The performance gives us designers in the last year, and now is in seri- they want Reebok, which Adidas bought in bringing out attributes that already exist,” longevity and the fashion makes us rel- ous talks with “a very well-known designer January for $3.8 billion, to focus more on Waterson said. “Every detail, every line and evant day by day.” who is a very public supporter of Danskin.” performance, saying the brand has been every color has a purpose — it’s not fashion The company’s soccer cleats and its The shift may not be activewear in- too centered on fashion fads in the past. for fashion’s sake, it’s style for substance.” collaborations with Alexander McQueen corporating fashion, but rather fashion Reebok is also promoting its relationship Almost a quarter of Under Armour’s are different beasts, Waters admitted. incorporating activewear. with the National Football League for an business is now women’s and the com- “There is a lot more brand loyalty in per- “Look at it by traditional defi nitions ad campaign. At the same time, Reebok pany thinks it could soon match men’s. formance — serious runners may stick with of what is fashion,” said Bob Meers, ceo is collaborating with actress Scarlett Under Armour entered the women’s not only a brand, but also a specifi c model of Lululemon, a maker of yogawear. “It is Johansson to create the “Scarlett [Hearts] market in 2003, initially coming out with for 20 years,” he said. “In fashion, you are fashionable to be fi t and to be involved in Rbk” lifestyle fashion line, which is “about “smaller men’s stuff in men’s colors, which only as good as your last collection.” fi tness. That is where the fashion is.” how Scarlett attaches to the brand, which didn’t work because it was too utilitar- Two-thirds of American women dedi- Although the company has no plans to affects not just her line,” Reebok chief ex- ian,” said Matt Powell, an analyst for cate at least half of their closets to active- make sportswear, it does focus on mak- ecutive offi cer Paul Harrington said in an- SportsONESource Inc. wear, according to a July survey commis- ing its activewear fashionable enough to nouncing the collection last month. “In the last year, they have established sioned by Portland, Ore.-based lifestyle wear as clothing. “When we emphasize performance, themselves as an authentic women’s apparel company Lucy. “For an hour a day, our product is it’s not at the expense of lifestyle,” brand,” Powell said. “You cannot ignore “Going forward, we will be putting much used for what it is designed for,” Meers Harrington said. “We feel we can play in the fact that it is always a fashion business more emphasis on having a fashion point of said. “The one diffi cult thing to capture both fi elds.” and Under Armour has fi gured that out.” view,” said Mike Edwards, Lucy president is the balance of someone’s day.”

to layer and features lace detailing to we continuously fi nd out is that this target A yoga refl ect the designer’s English roots. consumer is not just doing one sport.” look. Stella Adds Yoga, Gym The fi rst Adidas by Stella McCartney This spring’s collection will continue didas by Stella McCartney is completing its gym line was launched in February 2005 to provide the established sports catego- Acoverage, adding yoga and gym studio as sport cat- with a collection that covered run- ries, with a particular emphasis on ten- egories for spring 2007. ning, training and . Fall 2005 nis, which has an elegant Fifties feel, with These are the newest categories for the collabora- followed with trail-running and rock- higher waists and pleats. tive line, which has been introducing additional sports climbing categories, then last spring The line in February will arrive in 600 each season since its inception. came the introduction of ; Maria doors, including Adidas Sports Performance “I chose to add a yoga line because it is hot and people Kirilenko was the fi rst athlete ambassa- Stores, Stella McCartney boutiques, high-end should look hot when doing it,” McCartney said. “It is all dor for the brand. In fall 2006, a winter department stores and selected sports retail- about expressing yourself in movement and in the way sports category was unveiled. ers. It is also available at shopadidas.com. you look — having a choice, for once, instead of settling The product growth promises to con- Prices for the full line start at $25 for a for second-best in the way you present yourself and not tinue through at least 2010, the date to tennis wristband and climb to $270 for a compromising that just because it is technical sportswear. which McCartney extended her contract running jacket. Gym studio apparel retails The color palette is still delicate with a kick, and sexy sil- with the German athletic company. between $65 and $135, and yoga apparel houettes, leotards, late Seventies meets next year.’’ “We have a lot of ideas and there retails for $100 to $125. Footwear in the McCartney drew inspiration from dance for the col- is more to come,” said Heike Leibl, new line ranges from $120 to $145. lection, which uses lightweight, slouchy fabrics designed head of product for Adidas by Stella McCartney. “What — W.B. 10 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 24, 2006

The Beat B-T-S Season Count

By WWD Staff Teens are eens have been saving their dollars, retailers are getting ready Tready with the trends and experts say back-to-school to shop for is slowly up and running. back-to- Macroeconomic factors including high gas prices school, with have mixed with fashion cycles such as a denim slow- apparel high down to put a crimp in purchasing, but the season is far on their lists. from lost. Dresses, and tops are picking up the slack, and the determination of teens to be dressed as cool as their friends could just bring a strong fi nish to the season as the school bell rings. According to research by the NPD Group, teen girls spent about $4.2 billion on apparel from July through September 2005, up from $3.7 billion in 2004. Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst at NPD, said he expects that number to grow again this year. “I expect this year’s numbers to be healthier than they’ve been in the past, with apparel growing by at least 4 percent,” Cohen said. “I think the season will end up being pretty good, it will just happen slower than usual.” Also in 2005, 43 percent of b-t-s shoppers had already begun buying by Aug. 1 and 51 percent shopped between Aug. 1 and Sept. 1. The study said that in comparison, only 40 percent of consumers planned to shop that early this year, while 56 percent planned to shop later in August. While teens need notebooks and pencils and maybe even a new iPod to listen to on the bus, 71 percent of shoppers said they plan to spend most of their money on clothes this year, compared with 66 percent last year. Rob Callender, trend director at Teenage Research Unlimited, said teens are shopping later each year, maybe even hitting the mall in late September or early October. “They like to go to school, see what everyone else is wearing and then go shopping,” he said. “We are seeing that more and more every year.” Retail analysts are also expecting a slowdown in denim to impact sales across the market. Citigroup retail analyst

Kimberly Greenberger hosted a tour of the Garden State HELEN KING/CORBIS PHOTO BY Plaza mall in Paramus, N.J., on Tuesday, bringing along merchandising expert Paula Ullman. In her report on the North Palm Beach, Fla., are pairing leggings with short Citizens of Humanity and True Religion were strong sellers walk-through, Greenberger noted that new product cat- plaid skirts, said Susan Kaplan, co-owner. She said last year, Red said denim is not quite as strong this fall. egories had failed to fi ll the void left by denim. teens are choosing bright and pastel tanks, skinny jeans “Those brands have been around for a while and “As denim begins to peak as a percentage of retailers’ in dark washes with no embellishments and casual knit there are a lot of jeans out there,” said Red. “There is total sales in August and September…a lack of emerg- instead of more structured blazers. a new jean line every week and customers seem to be ing classifi cation to replace the waning denim business Kaplan reported that consumers were shopping more confused or they have so many pairs of jeans they could lead to disappointing sales results across the sec- later this season than in 2005 and named nervousness don’t need another pair.” tor,” said Greenberger. about hurricanes as a possible factor. She expects Teen As a result, Red said it is harder to get a new denim American Eagle was the notable exception, having Heaven’s b-t-s season to peak later since many teens in line “off the ground.” halted its denim promotion after two weeks. Gap, on the the area attend private schools. “Sometimes new jeans are $180 and [customers] don’t other hand, continues to be focused on denim. “They still wear uniforms, so back-to-school for them know the name,” she said. “They feel confi dent in the “Denim is a problem for both Gap and Old Navy, as means the fi rst dance or picture day,” she said. “Kids jeans that they know.” both divisions appear heavily invested in the category, also want to wait now and see what their friends are Stacey Pecor, owner of the four New York-based Olive despite downtrending denim sales in the mall,” said wearing before they go and make any big purchases.” & Bette’s stores, agrees that since there are so many Greenberger. “Although Paula liked the denim assort- Kaplan has no plans to reorder, but said she will new trends outside of denim, customers are looking to ment at Old Navy, she believes the division is one year bring in darker colors, tweeds and tunics as the weather buy dresses, leggings and even some new corduroys. too late, as consumer interest is lacking this year.” cools off. She named Hard Tail, Hurley and Le Tigre as “I have these AG cords that I just cannot keep in Eric Beder, an analyst with Brean Murray Carret & some of Teen Heaven’s best-selling brands for b-t-s. stock,” Pecor said. “They are $170 a pair and I get new Co., also noted a shift away from bottoms. The layered look has taken hold for the season and shipments in every two weeks. It’s incredible, they start- “For the fi rst time in the last three years, we believe teens are building the style with ed buying them back in July tops will take a major share of the consumer fash- everything from tunics to print- and they haven’t stopped.” ion budget,” said Beder in a research note on Aug. 14. ed hoodies to vests and trench- In addition, Pecor noted “There is virtually no room for undifferentiated product coats, said Wendy Red, fashion KEY BACK-TO-SCHOOL Nanette Lepore’s outerwear [in bottoms], many of which are already in the closets, director at Up Against the Wall, and dresses from a variety of which we believe has hurt many of the teen players.” a 24-store junior specialty chain TRENDS INCLUDE: vendors already selling. based in Washington D.C. ● Leggings with miniskirts. “Dresses continue to be Retailers Say… “I think there will be a lot ● Printed hoodies. strong and they usually start While many retailers started fi lling their stores with fall of different layering items that ● Men’s wear-inspired vests. slowing down in the fall,” merchandise as early as July, high gas prices and crazy will make the season really ● Tunics she said, noting a particular weather patterns across the country are a couple of fac- good,” said Red, noting her Empire-waist knit dress by ● Skinny jeans. tors keeping them cautious. b-t-s business is running even Susanna Monaco that contin- “For our customer, gas is a killer,” said Jeff with last year. ● Kimono tops. ues to sell in every color from Goodfriend, vice president and divisional merchandise Up Against the Wall, owned ● Trench jackets and coats. black to green. “That just isn’t manager of Goody’s Family Clothing Inc. by Long Rap Inc., is currently ● Tank dresses layered with knit turtlenecks. the case this time. While the High temperatures are also affecting the Knoxville, in the process of being acquired denim people are offering Tenn.-based retailer’s b-t-s sales. Goodfriend said some by Blue Holdings, a premium some really great new trends, customers aren’t quite ready to buy for fall, opting to denim manufacturer based in City of Commerce, Calif. with the gray denim and skinny jeans, I just think that stick with their lighter summer staples for now. He said Some bestsellers include a “tweedy, woolly” plaid the leggings, dresses and vests are working now because he hopes junior sales will go up once the temperatures vest with a fur-trimmed hood that sold out in the fi rst they are fresh and new and not as casual.” come down, but that consumer spending habits are more week and is now on reorder and brightly colored zip-up On the West Coast, the story is a bit different, as teens conservative now than three to four years ago. printed hoodies in French terry or fl eece. Trenchcoats are tapping into two major trends for fall: skinny-fi t Goodfriend reported that strong b-t-s sellers for the are another big layering item, both the longer- and short- jeans and tunic-length tops. 383-door retailer include hoodies, denim jeans and knit er-length versions and particularly in red, she said. “They are buying skinny jeans more than they did in tops with 10-inch sleeves. “Wovens are horrible for us,” Red said she was also doing well with kimono dress- the spring,” said Oren Hayun, co-owner of mall-based he added. es, tops and tunics in satin and chiffon. specialty store Planet Funk, “and any sort of tunic- Goodfriend named Duck Head, LEI Denim, Fang “Anything in a dress is the hottest thing,” said Red, length top that could be worn over skirts and leggings. and Self-Esteem among the best-selling brands. Sales pointing to tank dresses, knit dresses and a spaghetti and skirts are still big.” for solid leggings are steady, he said, and customers are strap dress with a balloon bottom that she has reor- Hayun said increased interest in skinny styles is com- layering them with miniskirts. dered 10 times. ing hand-in-hand with boot season. Similarly, b-t-s shoppers at Teen Heaven, a retailer in While denim brands like Seven For All Mankind, “More people feel comfortable with skinny-leg jeans WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 24, 2006 11 WWD.COM ting on a Fast Finish and a boot [than with] a ballet fl at,” he said. ready selling as soon as it gets on the fl oor,” she said. “It to be even more diffi cult this year as heat waves, high Jan Genovese, vice president of marketing for junior has a studded back pocket and connotes a good value energy prices and unrest in the Middle East kept shop- retailer Anchor Blue, said in the tops category, “defi - for premium denim but it only retails for $112. It looks pers out of the mall. Michael Silver, president of Silver nitely, the longer lengths are really hot,” adding, “girls much more expensive.” Jeans, said retailers tended to panic during the month are still into the skinny jeans. But they’re not as inter- after having rushed to get the latest styles and trends ested in the distressed look anymore….dark washes are Denim Makers Say... onto the sales fl oors. important — black, gray — with less grinding.” Denim has traditionally been the bedrock product of b- “Before this, what was already appearing was the Both Planet Funk, which runs 13 locations in Southern t-s assortments, and the explosion of styles and brands slowing down of a speeding locomotive from ridiculous California, and Anchor Blue, with more than 150 stores, over the last half decade has only increased its impor- speed to just breakneck speed,” said Silver. will reorder tunic-length tops for the holidays. tance and potential impact on sales. As with retailers, By July, Silver said consumers could walk into almost Anchor Blue will offer, “more tricked-out,” versions, denim manufacturers have seen momentum normalize any retailer’s denim area and clearly see that the mes- said Genovese, “with a little more embellishment.” as foot traffi c slowed to a trickle in July. However, denim sage was focused on black, dark and skinny styles, which Additionally, Hayun said Planet Funk will reorder ki- industry veterans believe that while the market is still failed to resonate. mono dresses and tops, both strong back-to-school sell- growing, denim has likely crested the peak of a regu- “July was really not good and [the retailers] know ers for the Los Angeles-based retailer. larly occurring fashion cycle. they’re not going to get those sales back and they’ve got “Teens are buying all types of dresses — shirtdresses, Dick Gilbert, founder of Mudd Jeans, said the cur- orders coming in for August,” said Silver. “What are you longer lounge dresses [and] kimonos,” he said. rent b-t-s season has been “just OK” and he has seen a going to do with that inventory? You’re going to move it Genovese said stripes and oversized graphics have slowdown in buying over the last three years. and push things back.” been retailing well for b-t-s, while Hayun said Planet “It used to be that any and every problem you might be The result, said Silver, is that two weeks ago he had Funk has found success with polkadots. having in stores could be swept away between July 10 and items that wouldn’t sell, with retailers looking to cancel Both retailers agree accessories are a stronger cat- Sept. 15, but it’s just not true anymore,” said Gilbert. orders. Now, however, those same retailers are looking egory this season than in b-t-s seasons past. Consumers have moved toward a buy-now-wear-now to double the order and are asking for it sooner. “We are doing a huge business in tote [bags] in dif- Brian Hogan, president of Modamood, New York, ferent fabrications,” said Genovese, “and the wide belt, the wholesale distributor for Replay jeans, described the waist belt and the chain belt are trending well.” July sales as “bordering terrible for a lot of people.” “This year, people are buying across different cat- WHERE WILL THEY SHOP? He has seen a signifi cant rebound in August, however. egories,” said Hayun. “They’ll buy dresses, shorts, ● 81 percent of teens plan to head to mass retailers. “[Retailers] did panic actually,” said Hogan. “You skirts, belted tunics — whereas last year, [teens] ● 45 percent will go to offi ce supply stores. saw a lot of stores that went right to 40 to 50 percent bought mostly jeans and T-shirts.” ● 38 percent are saving their money for specialty stores. off, they jumped the gun.” The Jean Connection, a Dallas-based chain, said ● 27 percent are looking to spend at department stores. Hogan believes denim is still performing strongly, b-t-s business has been strong due to trends that stu- SOURCE: NPD GROUP’S TEEN SPENDING POLL OF 40,000, WITH OVERLAPPING RESULTS but a loss of momentum is understandable after hav- dents wouldn’t dream of missing, including darker, ing fueled sales for six years. The rising prices have softer rinses. also made it more of an indulgent item for many con- “Students really stay in touch with the fashion world attitude, and retail buyers have followed suit, according sumers who already have several pairs in their closet. and have to have the latest denim out there, and they’ll to Gilbert. The shorter season ultimately leaves little to “I think people have stepped back a little bit this spend money if the fi t and look is right,” said Caren no room to recoup from any missteps. year and, unfortunately, took a three-week vacation Watson, owner. Gilbert points out that a slowdown in denim comes at a from shopping,” said Hogan of July. “Traffi c was very “The slim boot cut is still my top-selling look, but time when the dramatic increase in the number of denim slow and nobody had the vaccine for that.” straight and really slim styles are coming on strong — but vendors has pushed the sector to its highest quality levels. Elena Pickett, senior vice president of sales at Joe’s it’s not supertight or too skinny. The darker and much “The product is better than ever because the manufac- Jeans, said there was an immediate uptick in sales in cleaner rinses and ultrasoft denim are the most in-de- turers are pulling out all the stops,” said Gilbert. Because the second week of August. And for all the talk of skinny mand look as denim makers move toward cleaner styles. of this, Gilbert is more apt to believe that denim is on the fi ts, fl ares and boot cuts haven’t lost ground. The trend toward using harder looks and raw denim downward slope of a fashion cycle rather than it being a “Contrary to what the trends are, the customer is didn’t go over at all — it was very uncomfortable and not case of retailers and designers missing key fashion trends. still buying a lot of fl are jeans,” said Pickett. “It’s not all fl attering. It’s always about fi t and looking good.” “Jeans go through these tremendous cycles,” said about a cigarette leg. The cigarette leg and tight silhou- Best-selling denim labels at The Jean Connection in- Gilbert. “I’ve seen these seven-year burns and then a cou- ettes are selling, but so are the others.” clude Brown Label, Castle, Taverniti and Jet Lag. ple of years’ letdowns. I have a feeling it’s just a change in As in years past, Pickett said the East Coast market “I’ve also just started to get deliveries on a new line buying habit, I don’t think there’s less feet in the malls.” has been stronger due to the fact that consumers are called Infusion, which I ordered for holiday but it’s al- July, a traditionally slow month for denim, proved prepared to buy fall product earlier.

Le Tigre is a big selling brand at Teen Heaven.

After a slow July, Silver Jeans is seeing dramatic sales increases heading into fall. 12 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 24, 2006

Pegging bonus to performance is a big motivator, as proven by the retail compensation fi gures for 2005. Not surprisingly, executives of retail darlings like TheWWDList Target and J.C. Penney scored well last year. And Guess’ Paul Marciano got a 235 percent boost in his paycheck following the company’s healthy profi t increase. “If the net profi t is there, these executives deserve it,” said Terre Simpson, president of Simpson Associates, a retail and apparel executive search fi rm. She also points out that “there’s less talent in the wings” now that training programs Biggest Earners have been cut in retailing due to consolidation. Not everyone got big bonuses last year, though. Cache honcho Brian Woolf scored zero in that category, though his The top 20 apparel retail executives of publicly held U.S. companies with the overall pay rose. highest compensation packages from 2005 (includes salary and bonus). — Constance Gustke and Jeanine Poggi

ROBERT J. ULRICH, 62, CHAIRMAN AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER, TARGET CORP. 2005 total annual compensation: $8.26 million; percent change: 25.7 Salary: $1.5 million; bonus: $6.5 million; other annual compensation: $205,899 Credited with masterminding Target’s ultrahip image, Ulrich rightly commands high bonuses. Forbes even gave him an “A” in its “pay versus 1 performance” category. Ulrich is currently presiding over the company’s expansion plan to open 200 stores by 2010, with 60 stores being added last October alone. Seeking to avoid Wal-Mart’s public relations woes, Target also issued its fi rst corporate responsibility report, addressing subjects from unions to its plans for reducing greenhouse gas emissions. PAUL MARCIANO, 53, CO-CHAIRMAN AND CO-CEO, GUESS INC. 2005 total annual compensation: $5.75 million; percent change: 235.3 Salary: $981,923; bonus: $4.68 million; other annual compensation: $83,969 Guess is hot by every indicator. Sales soared 28 percent in fi scal 2005 and net income was up 99 percent. The stellar results propeled Marciano onto 2 the list of top earners this year because of a $4.68 million bonus. The sportswear company that has featured Claudia Schiffer and Paris Hilton in its ads isn’t fi nished striking a pose, either. It launched its fi rst Guess fragrance and body lotion last year, and the new Marciano line launched in 2004 had 13 freestanding locations by January. The upshot: The stock price has risen from $4 a few years ago to $39 in mid-January. H. LEE SCOTT JR., 57, PRESIDENT AND CEO, WAL-MART STORES INC. 2005 total annual compensation: $5.4 million; percent change: -4.4 Salary: $1.29 million; bonus: $3.94 million; other annual compensation: $162,967 At the helm of the world’s largest retailer, Scott has kept plugging away at changing the company’s image with a strong commitment to sustainable 3 initiatives such as renewable energy and products. And even though Wal-Mart has had its ups and downs, revenues increased 9.6 percent in 2005 and net income rose 9.4 percent, although Scott received a lower bonus. Wal-Mart recently reported its fi rst earnings dip in 10 years.

MYRON ULLMAN 3RD, 59, CHAIRMAN AND CEO, J.C. PENNEY CO. INC. 2005 total annual compensation: $4.75 million; percent change: 614.2 Salary: $1.5 million; bonus: $2.66 million; other annual compensation: $592,938 Penney’s strong turnaround keeps going, now under Ullman’s guidance. His mission: a fi ve-year growth plan to make the department store the 4 preferred choice for middle American and middle-aged shoppers. “We had an excellent year in 2005, but we’re just getting started,” said Ullman, referring to numbers like a net income pop of 107.6 percent in 2005. In its fourth quarter alone, Penney’s saw profi ts rise 65.5 percent. The company opened 18 stores in 2005 and posted sales increases in most areas of the country. DORRITT J. BERN, 55, CHAIRMAN, PRESIDENT AND CEO, CHARMING SHOPPES INC. 2005 total annual compensation $4.48 million; percent change: 29.5 Salary: $1.25 million; bonus: $2.5 million; other annual compensation: $732,003 With another good year — profi ts rose 54 percent in 2005 — Bern scored a higher bonus once again. Since she joined the Bensalem, Pa.-based 5 company in 1995, she has nearly tripled its sales. And she isn’t fi nished yet. The company plans to move into lifestyle merchandise by selling home fashions, kitchen and bath and body products. A strong advocate for women, she has an “Ask Dorrit” icon on the company home page, where Web visitors can ask her questions. MICHAEL S. JEFFRIES, 61, CHAIRMAN AND CEO, ABERCROMBIE & FITCH CO. 2005 total annual compensation: $4.4 million; percent change: -1.4 Salary: $1.2 million; bonus: $2.88 million; other annual compensation: $319,101 The man who gave A&F its sizzle led the company to double-digit sales growth last year. However, last April the company also settled a 6 shareholders’ lawsuit against the ceo under which Jeffries agree to reduce his pay by cutting in half a $12 million bonus package that stretched through 2008. As a result, his bonus was fl at in 2005. Jeffries continues to push A&F into new territories, though, with the opening of its fi rst store in Canada and a European debut with a store on London’s Savile Row.

JAMES V. O’DONNELL, 65, CEO, AMERICAN EAGLE OUTFITTERS INC. 2005 total annual compensation: $3.86 million; percent change: 32.6. Salary: $950,000; bonus: $2.91 million Surging profi ts of 37.9 percent at the specialty retailer helped increase O’Donnell’s pay nearly 33 percent, as customers snapped up private label 7 apparel and accessories. And American Eagle is gearing up for stronger growth by launching another concept, the aerie collection of dormwear and intimates targeted at the 15- to 25-year-old customer.

ROGER S. MARKFIELD, 64, VICE CHAIRMAN, AMERICAN EAGLE OUTFITTERS INC. 2005 total annual compensation: $3.8 million; percent change: 33.3 Salary: $950,000; bonus: $2.85 million Like his compatriot O’Donnell, Markfi eld’s compensation was in line with strong company growth. The current year looks to be another winner, 8 since American Eagle handily beat Wall Street estimates in its second quarter with a 27 percent earnings gain. Markfi eld’s expertise lies in building the Eagle trade name via merchandising and marketing programs.

LESLIE WEXNER, 68, CHAIRMAN AND CEO, LIMITED BRANDS INC. 2005 total annual compensation: $3.77 million; percent change: -21.2 Salary: $1.68 million; bonus: $758,880; other annual compensation: $1.32 million The retail legend who built Limited Brands took a large pay cut last year. The reason: Profi ts were down and sales were tepid. Thus Wexner’s 9 bonus, typically tied to performance, fell by $2.4 million from the prior year. But one Wall Street analyst noted in April that the retailer’s apparel division was “turning around faster than expected.” The company has also made sweeping management changes, and Wexner predicted that for his company the “best is yet to come.” TERRY J. LUNDGREN, 54, CHAIRMAN, PRESIDENT AND CEO, FEDERATED DEPARTMENT STORES INC. 2005 total annual compensation: $3.49 million; percent change: -25 Salary: $1.29 million; bonus: $2.08 million; other annual compensation: $119,192 Last year Lundgren led Federated through its merger with May Department Stores and gained control of 25 percent of the U.S. department store 10 business. Now he is redefi ning the sector to attract younger shoppers and is converting the company’s May Co. stores into Macy’s, upgrading merchandise and store features along the way. Though Lundgren’s compensation dropped by one-quarter in 2005, the largest amount on the list, the company declined to disclose the reasons. He did receive, however, 275,000 underlying options for the year, compared with 137,500 in 2004.

top-level executives outruns supply, retailers are seeing Ulrich, who occupied the top spot for apparel retail- Bonuses Bulk Up Annual Pay more lucrative pay packages that are garnished with ers in 2004, maintained the number-one slot with total long-term incentives. annual compensation rising 25.7 percent to $8.3 million. By Liza Casabona As a result, of the retailers tracked by WWD, average Marciano’s annual pay climbed to $5.7 million in 2005 yearly bonuses rose 6.4 percent in 2005 from 2004 while from $1.7 million in the prior year, while Scott’s pay fell THERE’S NO BETTER TIME TO BE A RETAIL the average, total annual compensation leapt 16.7 per- 4.4 percent to $5.4 million. J.C. Penney Co. Inc.’s chair- executive. cent. The top three paid executives were Robert Ulrich, man and ceo Myron E. “Mike” Ullman 3rd saw the largest As companies employ a variety of tactics to squeeze chairman and chief executive offi cer of Target Corp., jump in his annual compensation, climbing to $4.8 mil- out more profi ts from every sale, performance-based bo- Paul Marciano, co-chairman and ceo of Guess and H. Lee lion from $665,859. Results do not include options and nuses are getting fatter and fatter. And as demand for Scott, president and ceo of Wal-Mart Stores Inc. other long-term compensation.

SOURCE: SECURITIES AND EXCHANGE COMMISSION FILINGS AS OF AUG. 4, 2006, FOR THE RETAILERS TRACKED BY FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS’ FINANCIAL NEWS SERVICE. RESULTS DO NOT INCLUDE STOCK OPTIONS OR OTHER LONG-TERM PAYOUTS. WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 24, 2006 13 WWD.COM

SCOTT EDMONDS, 49, PRESIDENT AND CEO, CHICO’S FAS INC. 2005 total annual compensation: $3.4 million; percent change: 71.6 Salary: $996,153; bonus: $2.4 million When Edmonds joined the Chico’s team in 1993 as operations manager, the company was on the brink of bankruptcy. In 2003, he became president 11 and ceo, helping transform Chico’s into a leading retailer targeting the over-35 woman. His formula is working, propelling him into the top earners last year. Annual sales in 2005 grew 31.7 percent to $1.4 billion, and its record net income rose 37.4 percent to $194 million in 2005.

SUSAN P. MCGALLA, 42, PRESIDENT AND CHIEF MERCHANDISING OFFICER, AMERICAN EAGLE OUTFITTERS INC. 2005 total annual compensation: $3 million; percent change: 124 Salary: $800,000; bonus: $2.2 million McGalla joined the company in 1994, and three years later became its general merchandise manager in the women’s division. Last year, she was 12 promoted to president of the division, and she now directs design, merchandising and marketing functions, as well as the company’s signifi cant growth within the teen sector.

BRIAN WOOLF, 57, CHAIRMAN AND CEO, CACHE INC. 2005 total annual compensation: $2.9 million; percent change: 22.6 Salary: $554,808; other annual compensation: $2.40 million In May, Cache exited its Lillie Rubin business and introduced the new Cache Luxe concept, expanding casual and eveningwear offerings. Woolf’s 13 explanation in May: “We believe that we can better capitalize on Cache’s strong brand recognition with our Luxe concept, as we take advantage of Cache’s signifi cant customer loyalty and national advertising campaign.” In 2005, Woolf’s pay rose 197.4 percent based on strong store sales; this year, profi ts were nearly fl at. JOHN P.D. CATO, 55, CHAIRMAN, PRESIDENT AND CEO, CATO CORP. 2005 total annual compensation: $2.83 million; percent change: 37.7 Salary: $862,500; bonus: $1.97 million Involved in the family business since he was seven, Cato helped the company escape bankruptcy in the early Nineties by fi nding a niche within 14 the competitive women’s apparel and accessories landscape. His solution: offering unique products at budget prices. Last year, the company’s net income rose 28.7 percent to $44.8 million, pushing up Cato’s bonus.

JOHN B. MENZER, 55, VICE CHAIRMAN RESPONSIBLE FOR THE U.S.,WAL-MART STORES INC. 2005 total annual compensation: $2.81 million; percent change: 0.7 Salary: $943,846; bonus: $1.65 million; other compensation: $219,318 Promoted in September 2005 to vice chairman of the American business, Menzer handles the division’s real estate, logistics, information services, 15 benefi ts, global procurement, fi nancial services, store planning and strategic planning. Previously, he helped transform Wal-Mart’s international division, expanding the company globally and devising plans to open Wal-Mart stores in India.

JAY MARGOLIS, 57, GROUP PRESIDENT, APPAREL, LIMITED BRANDS INC. 2005 total annual compensation: $2.51 million; percent change: N/A Salary: $1.1 million; bonus: $1.38 million; other compensation: $21,698 Margolis, a newcomer to the list, joined Limited in March 2005 and is spearheading a turnaround at Express and The Limited Brands. Previously, 16 he served as president and chief operating offi cer of Reebock International, where he launched the activewear company’s retail fl agships in London, Los Angeles, New York, Philadelphia and Tokyo, as well as in China.

ARNOLD B. ZETCHER, 65, CHAIRMAN, PRESIDENT AND CEO, TALBOTS INC. 2005 total annual compensation: $2.4 million; percent change: 14.7 Salary: $1.17 million; bonus: $797,300; other compensation: $428,108 Zetcher’s plate is full. He’s currently shepherding Talbots through a restructuring phase that includes the $517 million acquisition of J. Jill Group 17 in May and the recent announcement of the closing of the Talbots customer service and catalogue call center in Hingham, Mass. In 2005, company sales rose 6.5 percent to $1.8 billion.

ALAN J. LACY, 52, FORMER VICE CHAIRMAN, SEARS HOLDINGS CORP. 2005 total annual compensation: $2.3 million; percent change: N/A Salary: $1.26 million; bonus: $772,296; other compensation: $267,108 In late July, Lacy stepped down as vice chairman of Sears Holdings and resigned from the boards of Sears Holdings and Sears Canada. He was 18 replaced as ceo last year after Sears, Roebuck and Co. merged with Kmart. Lacy had long faced criticism from Wall Street for failing to revive Sears’ sales after many turnaround attempts. In a proxy statement fi led in April, the company said Lacy’s option grants would increase if he resigned within 30 days of June 30.

GREGG W. STEINHAFEL, 51, PRESIDENT, TARGET CORP. 2005 total annual compensation: $2.23 million; percent change: 24 Salary: $1.01 million; bonus: $1.16 million; other compensation: $56,624 19 Considered to be Ulrich’s likely successor, Steinhafel has played a major role in transforming Target into a trendy discount retailer with stylish offerings. Known for his hands-on approach, he pays regular visits to Target stores and its competitors to see how they measure up.

CAROL MEYROWITZ, 52, PRESIDENT, TJX, TJX COS. INC. 2005 total annual compensation: $2.22 million; percent change: 42.4 Salary: $957,693; bonus: $1.2 million; other compensation: $64,434 In October, Meyrowitz became the nation’s largest off-price retailer’s president. Her appointment came on the heels of Ted English’s resignation 20 amid concerns “over the performances of some of its smaller divisions.” Meyrowitz was previously TJX’s senior executive vice president and then president of its largest division, Marmaxx Group.

Driven by a strong fi nancial performance, American companies, sources said. Inc., Home Depot Inc. and Barnes & Noble Inc., have dis- Eagle Outfi tter Inc.’s top three executives all made it into “With executives, the laws of supply and demand closed that they are the subject of investigation for past the top 20 spots. American Eagle’s ceo James V. O’Donnell apply. Right now, the demand is exceeding the supply stock-option grants. No apparel companies appeared on increased his salary 32.6 percent to a total of $3.9 million, at the senior level. Companies and their boards want to the list. earning him the number-eight spot, up two from last year. make sure that they develop performance packages [for According to a recent study conducted by Erik Lie, Vice chairman Roger Markfi eld’s total compensation in- their executives] that are going to retain good people,” an associate professor of fi nance at the Tippie College of creased 33.3 percent to $3.8 million, putting him in the said Jaimee Marshall, executive vice president at the ex- Business at the University of Iowa, 29.2 percent of compa- number-nine spot, while Susan McGalla, president and ecutive search fi rm of Kirk Palmer & Associates Inc. nies used backdated options, and 13.6 percent of options chief merchandising offi cer, saw her salary and bonus in- “The key trends for salaries today are not so much that given to top executives between 1996 and 2005 were back- crease 124 percent to $3 million from $1.3 million. She ap- they are being elevated, but it is what the incentives asso- dated or otherwise manipulated. peared on the list for the fi rst time this year at number 14. ciated with that salary package are, either an equity posi- The study found that the trend of granting options The average yearly bonus of all of the retail executives tion if that can be offered, stock, or a long-term buyout when the company’s shares were trading at lower prices tracked by WWD rose to $587,109 in 2005 from $551,713 plan. That is what has seriously changed the environment to receive the greatest value was more common in tech- in 2004, while the average total annual compensation in- in our business today,” Hughes said. nology fi rms or companies with volatile stock prices. creased to $1.4 million from $1.2 million. In light of that, Marshall pointed out, it is important While Lie said he has not yet examined apparel retail- Elaine Hughes, president of E.A. Hughes, said base to keep in mind how companies attract new executives. ers separately, analysts believe it is unlikely companies in salaries are not the biggest draw for executives as current Sometimes a package can be “front-loaded” to attract the sector will come under scrutiny in the near future. compensation levels are maintained by the compression fresh talent, although the trend overall for the industry is The tech sector relies more heavily on options for of the industry through consolidation. A trend toward ver- toward the long-term incentive programs, she said. compensation, while in the retail world, companies can ticalization in the industry, however, is driving companies Amid the growing controversy over company stock op- fund top executives in cash and equity, said Liz Pierce, to offer premiums to get and retain top executives. The tions and robust executive compensations, apparel retail- senior vice president and lead retail analyst at Sanders retention involves offering sweeter long-term incentive ers are managing to remain out of the spotlight. Morris Harris. plans, as well as perks like a percentage of ownership in As of Aug. 18, 87 companies, including Apple Computer — With contributions from Jeanine Poggi 14 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 24, 2006 WWD.COM British Airport Conditions Chico’s Cuts Earnings, Sales Forecast By Jeanine Poggi cent, to $19.96. of 145 to 150 new stores by the Although comp results were end of fi scal 2006. Almost ‘Back to Normal’ espite reporting robust sec- positive for the quarter, the com- Belk Inc., boosted by strong Dond-quarter earnings on pany said August same-store margins and its year-old Proffi tt’s/ By Brid Costello Wednesday, Chico’s FAS Inc. sales were showing a decline McRae’s acquisition, reported saw shares fall 17 percent in in the range of 3 percent, with net income for the second quar- LONDON — The “fasten seat belts” sign might soon be switched post-market trading after the Chico’s trending down around 6 ter ended July 29 increased 52.9 off for travel retail in some of the British airports most affected company cut its sales and earn- percent and WH/BM showing a percent, to $26.3 million from by the alleged terrorist plot, which came to light two weeks ago. ings guidance. gain of approximately 9 percent. $17.2 million in the year-ago pe- “We’re very close to being back to normal,” said Colin Separately, Belk Inc. posted ro- “We have not realized the level riod, on sales that gained 21.5 Hargrave, managing director of BAA U.K. Airports Retail. British bust profi ts and sales for the quar- of same-store sales in the Chico’s percent, to $732 million. Belk, Airports Authority owns seven U.K. airports, including London’s ter, citing strong comps that were brand that we originally antici- based in Charlotte, N.C., said the Heathrow, Gatwick and Stansted, as well as airport retail chain bolstered by recent acquisitions. pated, and it appears we are fac- increase was due primarily to a World Duty Free. “The fi rst day [following the revelation of the At Chico’s, for the three ing our fi rst negative same-store comparable-store sales increase alleged plot to blow up planes fl ying from the U.K. to the U.S.] months ended July 29, net in- sales results in some time,” Scott of 4 percent, new stores and the was the worst. Obviously, there was a lot of confusion about what come increased to $54 million, or A. Edmonds, president and chief acquisition. could and couldn’t be taken on board, but the situation came back 30 cents a diluted share, up from executive offi cer of the company, Top-performing merchan- to normal day by day.” $49 million, or 27 cents, last year. said in a statement. “We believe dise categories were women’s Hargrave said it’s too early to quantify the impact of the The owner of Chico’s and White this same-store sales decline is sportswear, dresses, accessories scare and ensuing security restrictions on business, but said the House/Black Market reported an due to a combination of factors and cosmetics, including private effects are being felt differently from airport to airport. Current 18 percent jump in sales, to $405 including the lack of ‘wear-now’ labels, the company said. “Our security procedures stipulate that liquids, such as fragrances, million from $343 million in the merchandise in our stores, a re- management team and associ- cosmetics and liquor purchased in travel retail stores, are ac- year prior. Total same-store sales duction in overall store traffic ates produced outstanding re- cepted on board all fl ights, except for those bound for the U.S. increased 5.3 percent. and a pre-planned marketing ef- sults in the second quarter,” said All passengers, however, are required to pack liquid-based For the six-month period, net fort that turned out not to inspire Tim Belk, chairman and ceo, in a products not purchased in post-security gate stores into their income rose to $106 million, or our customer to shop.” statement. “We are seeing strong checked luggage. 59 cents a diluted share, from The fi rm said it expects third- sales and margin gains in the “After two weeks people $96 million, or 53 cents, in the quarter earnings to be in the existing Belk stores as well as in are understanding that,” year-ago period. Sales increased range of 26 cents to 28 cents per the newly acquired Proffi tt’s and Hargrave said, adding in 18.9 percent, to $797 million diluted share, and $1.10 to $1.14 McRae’s stores.” BEAUTY BEAT the days following the an- from $670 million. for the fi scal year. Analysts had Belk recently purchased nouncement of the alert, airport retailers saw an upswing in By brand, Chico’s comps the retailer pegged to earn 32 Parisian, which, along with sales of bags in pre-security departure areas as passengers strug- climbed 3 percent during the cents in the third quarter. Chico’s Proffi tt’s and McRae’s, was part gled to check in belongings they’d planned to carry on board. quarter while White House/Black said it expects same-store sales to of Saks Inc., and Migerobe, a jew- And since many passengers are arriving much earlier at Market’s rose 19 percent. At the be fl at to low-single digits for the elry business that operated jew- airports in anticipation of long lines at check-in and security, market close, the Chico’s stock next few quarters. elry shops in Belk stores. some are spending even more time in departure lounges, which was down 0.3 percent, to $24.08. Chico’s FAS opened 52 stores — With contributions from could be a boon to travel retail stores. After market, it plunged 17 per- this year, in line to reach its goal David Moin In some airports, however, particularly those handling low-cost carriers, which, in general, only open check-in desks two hours prior to departure, snaking lines have become the norm. While included younger celebrities such as Vin Diesel and passengers are arriving earlier, rather than spending more time Matthew Fox. Wenner’s focus on the magazine is said to in duty free stores, they’re caught in crowded departure areas. be even more fuzzy now that he serves as editor in chief “There’s an inconsistent message being sent out by airline MEMO PAD of two magazines. Said one insider: “The magazine is a companies,” said Hargrave. disaster.” Insiders are hoping things will turn around in Alleviating the strain of air travel’s new reality will be key to DROP THE PEN, JANN: Jann Wenner’s decision to replace the second half now that Wenner is on paternity leave ensuring passengers want to shop in airports going forward, he former Men’s Journal editor Michael Caruso last after the birth of his son. — Stephanie D. Smith added. “There are different points of stress,” he said. “Getting fall doesn’t seem to be paying off. According to to the airport on time, checking in, stress at security and getting numbers released Monday by the Audit Bureau of CRUISING FOR A BRUISING: With Paramount perhaps to your gate — some of the walks are very long. We have to get Circulations, newsstand sales for the magazine have dropping Tom Cruise from his contract (or Cruise dumping people through the process in the best state of mind possible.” gotten increasingly worse since Wenner took over as the studio, depending on whom you believe), will Among measures BAA has taken on that front is to launch an editor in chief last November. magazine editors do the same? Most editors contacted informational advertising campaign that spells out to passen- Average single copy sales of Men’s Journal fell Wednesday believed Cruise would still be asked to gers what they can and can’t take on board fl ights. 31.5 percent during the fi rst half of the year, to appear on covers, even without the marketing muscle BAA is also working on initiatives to make duty free shop- 70,145, compared with 102,384 for the year prior of Paramount to push the star’s upcoming projects. But a possibility for U.S.-bound travelers. In Heathrow’s and 75,850 in the fi rst half of 2004. As reported, that pool of magazines would want him not just because Terminal Three, the company has been testing a program to some of the decline was due to Men’s Journal not he’s in a blockbuster fl ick, but also because the sordid deliver duty free goods to Virgin Atlantic planes. being able to report promotional copies for its May details of his personal life — and how they affect his “It’s very labor-intensive and it’s not an effi cient way of al- 2005 Adventure issue as newsstand copies because business relationships — are intriguing. lowing products to be taken with you, though it does allow us of new ABC rules. Last year, the magazine reported a “It used to be that he was one of the few sure things currently to offer duty free,” said Hargrave. May newsstand fi gure of 194,400, but 150,000 of as a cover subject,” responded Esquire editor in chief In addition, other methods are being researched. “We’re those copies were actually mailed to people from a David Granger via e-mail. “Massive box-offi ce appeal looking into opportunities like sealed bags so that when you purchased list, according to executives familiar with mixed with all-American boyishness — how could you buy liquor, for example, from World Duty Free, it can be put the title. Men’s Journal, meanwhile, guaranteed a go wrong? He was a massive star whose appeal could into a sealed bag with its receipt so it can pass the security rate base of 800,000 to advertisers for that particular be molded to a magazine’s needs.“ However, Esquire check and the passenger can take it on board,” he said, adding issue. “Anytime you’re down is disappointing, but hasn’t featured Cruise on its cover since 2002. the company is also talking to airport authorities about possibly overall, I’m very happy with this circ period,” said Will “I would guess that, from now on, he will do offering duty free goods in arrivals areas. Schenck Men’s Journal publisher. “Overall circ is up at well for the tabloid-y celebrity magazines, but will “The ultimate solution would be to restore the situation to the magazine and we do see a migration of newsstand be more of a risk for the glossies,” added Granger. what it was before,” he said. Meanwhile, he suggested airport people getting subscriptions.” And unlike Us Weekly, “I don’t think the end of his relationship with shops should adopt clear plastic bags in order to make security Schenck noted, “This magazine at this company is not Paramount will affect his appeal so much as his checks run more smoothly. “It’s a simple small thing,” he said. about chasing newsstand sales.” Schenck also pointed apparent instability and tendency to subvert the While some airlines have been vocal about their dissat- out that the newsstand sales of the entire men’s good of a project for the needs of his religion.” isfaction with BAA’s handling of the alleged terrorist threat, magazine category fell 5 percent in the fi rst half, thus Despite Granger’s hesitation, an editor at another Hargrave said airport retailers have been supportive through- Men’s Journal’s performance was not outside the norm. monthly who requested anonymity believed Cruise out the period of disruption. The January 2006 issue sold 5.6 percent fewer performed solidly as a recent cover subject, when “Most concession agreements are for three to seven years copies, and February 10.6 percent less. This year’s the actor starred in “MI:3.” But the editor also said, and there are ups and downs at every airport,” he said. “For March cover with Bode Miller on the cover sold only “It’s not enough that a cover subject has product the sake of a couple of weeks worth of disappointing trad- 43,981 copies, compared with last year’s 64,200 lumbering down the pike. That’s the easy part. There ing [we don’t feel there’ll be major issues]. As the concession (however, while the title missed its 650,000 rate base also needs to be the ‘X’ factors. You have to ask agreements are based on percentage turnover, both BAA and in March 2005, it made its 700,000 rate base for yourself, ‘Is there buzz on them? Are they interesting the concession partners take a hit. It’s too early to say what the this year’s March issue.) April’s issue with pro surfer right now? Do my readers care about this person? And impact will be on a full year. Concession partners understand Laird Hamilton sold 20.5 percent fewer copies than does the guy represent the image of the magazine?’” that overall we have a very good record in terms of passenger the year before and the June issue sold 17.2 percent But Us Weekly’s Janice Min welcomed any sort of growth and business development over the years.” fewer copies. “The reason they’ve had so much trouble news, good or bad, on Cruise, since the controversy While Hargrave said the threat of international terrorism is because Jann’s in charge,” said a source close to creates more desire for information behind the is now something the world has to live with, he’s confi dent air Wenner, who believed the media executive is using the headlines. “It makes him an even more intriguing travel, and with it travel retail, will spring back into action same tactic he’s applying at Rolling Stone. “Rolling fi gure,” she said. “As proven by all this coverage, once the initial shock of the alleged threat recedes. Indeed, the Stone is largely nostalgic, and he’s got the same touch people who follow celebrities live their ups and industry has set precedent since travel retail shopping often on the pages of Men’s Journal. As a result, it’s an older, downs. It certainly doesn’t impact their likability.” seems to resemble a retail rubber ball — bouncing back after duller and more b- or c-[list] kind of magazine.” But a star’s backstory — their family, their wacky terrorist strikes in New York, London and Madrid; outbreaks of This year, Wenner has put older and lesser-known eating habits — makes more headlines than their new SARS and avian fl u, as well as air traffi c accidents. stars on Men’s Journal’s cover, like professional surfer acting role. “No one’s buying a magazine because they “Every incident like this is likely to get people to question if Kelly Slater and Harrison Ford. Under Caruso’s watch, want to read about the acting methods for your new they want and need to travel,” he said. “If it’s harder to travel last year’s issues featured big packages on adventure movie. No one cares!” said Min. Memo to Cruise: If you they’ll question it more, but it’s clear that worldwide demand is travel and extreme sports (see June 2005’s cover line want the cover of Us Weekly, keep jumping on couches. going to continue to grow. I don’t see this as a major blip.” “99 Things to Do Before You Die”), while cover stars If you want an Esquire cover, keep working. — S.D.S. WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 24, 2006 15 NATIONAL MARKETPLACE

TECHNICAL MANAGER

PATTERN/SAMPLES A major women’s updated sportswear company is Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 seeking an experienced and energetic person to fill an outstanding new opportunity to lead a team of PATTERNS, SAMPLES, tech. designers and patternmakers. PRODUCTIONS All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Must have patternmaker background with a minimum of 7-10 years experience in private label & updated PATTERNS, SAMPLES, women’s sportswear . Showrooms & Lofts PRODUCTIONS Senior Account Executives BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Full service shop to the trade. Position requires extensive knowledge to develop ABS., a leader in Contemporary/Designer clothing, currently Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 product specs, fit, and construction. has exciting opportunities for Senior Account Executives to Showroom sublet - 36th & 5th PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD join our Sportswear, Streetwear, and Dress Division team in 2500 Ft Showroom - Fully Built High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- Proven management experience necessary to direct a Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 New York. This opportunity is available for results driven, Search- www.manhattanoffices.com large high volume, fast paced team. Must be proficient self-motivated sales executives that will be challenged to in Web PDM. open new businesses, build existing businesses and rebuild Position based in Boston w/travel to New York. and strengthen relationships within the marketplace. Candidates must have 3-5 years experience in sales. An established We offer a great work environment, excellent contact with Better Contemporary/Designer Specialty Stores salary and benefits packages. and Departments Stores is a must. Understanding of Retail Planning and Account Management is required. Please E-mail resume: [email protected] Fax resume to: Attn: Human Resources or Fax: (617) 783-4395 (213) 891-2812 or email: [email protected] E/O/E PRODUCTION ASSOCIATE BUYER MANAGER FABRIC SALES $55K Leading Missy and JR woven tops Follow-up on PO’s on Lab Dips Sales Assistant New upscale importer seeks an experienced, detail [email protected] 212-947-3400 oriented, organzied individual to join our We are a better contemporary sportswear collection with a trim missy fit. Contemporary boutique production department. Seeking a sales assistant to execute administrative activities in our branded Please email resume to: PEARL NEW YORK BRIDAL SALES: Boca Raton, Florida [email protected] Sales Manager Seeking Sales Consultant(s) for Couture and private label and businesses. The ideal candidate has 1 to 3 years experi- Current contemporary market Bridal Shop in Soho (NYC). P/T & F/T Pearl, a Contemporary women’s sports- time positions are available. Must have ence, has excellent computer skills, is well organized and is highly motivated. experience absolute must. wear line, div of Salt Jeans seeks We are a flexible and highly entrepreneurial Hong Kong based company experience. Computer skills a +. E-mail aggressive salesperson w/ min 5 yrs exp resumes to: [email protected] with strong financial and operational capability. We are offering an out- Email: [email protected] Quality Control / Knits selling for a recognized company. Will standing opportunity for the dynamic self who can help us unlock Fax: 561-391-3389 L.I.C. area. Must have extensive knowl. introduce the line to top department & of knit garment construction. Ability specialty stores. Lucrative package. the value in our infrastructure. E-mail resume in strict confidence to: to do quality & spec audits. 5 years exp Send résumé: [email protected] [email protected] a must. Good salary and benefits. Bilingual Chinese/English preferred. Production Coordinator Please fax resume to 212-947-7218 SALES EXECUTIVES Leading Women’s Apparel Co seeks Established manufacturer of ladies’ Designer & Production Coordinator w/ min 1-3 yrs apparel based in Montreal, is looking Accountant Import exp. Must be computer literate to increase their Sales team within the Importer looking for Pro-Active Production Ass’t and detail oriented. Position immedi- US. Opportunities are available for Team Player w/min 2 yrs exp in Highway Jeans seeks experienced ate for the right candidate. Great SALES ASSISTANT results driven, self-motivated sales Inventory Costing & Control, General denim designer and production ass’t. atmosphere w/ great package. Fax executives who will maintain existing CASHMERE KNITWEAR Junior Apparel company, fast paced accounts as well as expand our cus- Ledger Maintenance & Financial Pls fax resume: 212-938-0079 or resume to: HR Director 212-354-3051 Ladies’ Designer & Contemp. Men’s clas- Statement Closings. Strong PC Email: [email protected] environment seeks organized, comput- tomer base and bring in new business. er proficient, highly motivated sales Coverage required in: New York, New sics seeks Reps w/upscale specialty base skills req’d. We offer competitive for L.A,., Dallas, Chi., N.Y. apparel salary & benefits including 401K. DESIGNERS- MISSY 90-125K + associate. Must be detail oriented, Jersey, Michigan, Indiana, Illinois and (1) Contemporary i.e. Bebe (2) Urban Edge i.e. aggressive and eager to learn. New England. pros for USA. 5-10 yrs. exp. Fax or E-mail: Please e-mail resume & salary 303-663-7354 / [email protected] history to: [email protected] or JLo (3) Sophisticated Contemporary i.e. Fax or E-mail resume Attn: Jennifer E-mails to: [email protected] 212-391-6386 [email protected] fax to: (212) 658-9148. Tahari Call: 212.643.8090 Fax :643.8127 (agcy) or fax resumes to: (514) 382-0341. Handbag Sales Rep Krina, Ltd seeks indep sales rep to sell FASHION FACULTY Sales Executive handbags at wholesale to US retail Accounts Payable/Receivable Private College seeks faculty for Sportswear Co. seeks an energetic stores. Min 2 yrs rep exp in women’s For ladies dress co. 5 years exp. Fashion Program. Ph.D Degree preferred, PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT Technical Designer sales professional. Must have major apparel. 10% comm. Send resume and peachtree or quickbooks. Master’s degree required, along with ASSISTANT active Department/Specialty in all cover letter to: [email protected] significant industry exp. Knowledge of BERNARDO FASHIONS, ladies outerwear Fax: 212-768-4804 Seeking assistant trim buyer. & sportswear company, seeks energetic sizes. Great Showroom. Fax: 212-764-7663 Email: [email protected] textiles, product development, buying, or email: [email protected] visual merchandising, merchandise Responsible for ordering and strong team player with min. 3yrs experience. Regional Sales Reps planning & control. Send resume to: follow up on trims. Communicate with Position responsible for complete Direct importer with traditional & urban Fashion Search domestic factories. Computer entry, able development packages for design team Sales Representative lines in Young Men’s, Boy’s, Juniors’, Bookkeeper Assistant to take direction, team player, multi- including flat sketch, spec, detail of Missy’s and Children’s Wear is seeking Apparel showroom in Manhattan Berkeley College tasker, oganized. Potential for growth. construction, fit comments. Adobe Silk fabric and scarf manufacturer 44 Rifle Camp Road, West Paterson, seeks aggressive sales rep with 2+ yrs exp. qualified regional representation. in all seeks assistant bookkeeper for A/P, Garment Construction helpful. Email Illustrator & Excel a must. We offer a great territories. So that we mat set up appoint- filing and general office help. Please New Jersey 07424, Fax: 973-278-0080 resume to: work environment w/oppty for growth. High salary + Commission. or Email: [email protected] Fax Resume: 212-202-3723 ments at our Magic booth, please Fax fax resume with salary requirements, [email protected] Please email or fax resume resumes a.s.a.p. to: 305-393-8205 Attn: Monica, to: 212-869-3671. Equal Opportunity Employment or fax to 212-947-5651 E: [email protected] F: 212-594-9633 Import Air Freight Coord. to 90K. Current exp in all aspects of US Customs, negotiate CLERICAL with various air carriers. Coord distribution Bright clerical wanted. Must speak of merch to customers. Call 973-564-9236. well. Billing, filing, relief recept. and varied office tasks. Will train. Fax Patternmaker resume and salary to (212) 398-9817. ANDREA BEHAR Patternmaker with min. 10 years exp. Design Associates Extensive knowledge of sportswear and Better Import Company seeks: cut & sew knitwear req’d. Excellent (2) Associate Designers benefits. E-mail to: [email protected] Sweaters: (1) assoc designer Sportswear: (1) assoc designer for Prod’n. Asst./Asst. Tech Design updated related woven sportswear. Both positions require 2-3 yrs exp, abil- Proficiency in Word / Excel / Illustrator / ity to sketch, spec, create presentation Photoshop req’d. Must be organized & boards & communicate w/ overseas enjoy multi-tasking in fast-paced envi- offices. Must be able to take direction, ronment. Will consider on the job train- multi task & work in a fast paced envi- ing. Salary: 30-40K. Fax: 212-768-1301 ronment. Working knowledge of photoshop & illustrator a must! Great Production Coordinator opportunities w/ a growing company. Leading ladies denim & sportswear Email resume indicating position to: importer seeks exp’d, detail oriented, [email protected] organized individual to join our fast paced production team. Qualified candidate will have good understanding DESIGNER of garment construction, accustomed Estab Missy sweater/knit importer to working with woven fabrics, able to seeks creative designer to work in fast oversee all approvals, expedite orders paced environ. Must be detail oriented, & tech packs, monitor time and action work independently and take direction report & maintain on time deliveries. well. Technical skills and min 3 yrs Bilingual Chinese a plus. Friendly exp. req’d. Exc. oppty for the right working environment and company person! Fax resume 212.302.5184 or benefits. Please email resume to: Call Sandra: 212.302.3744 or email [email protected] [email protected] Section II: Distribution: Bonus audience. your capture to sure be industry, entire the so with resonates issue WWDCoterie The markets. denim and junior better, bridge, contemporary, the in hot what’s showcases that event the Coterie, at booth your to Create buzz for your brand before the show doors open. Pre-sell your line and drive traffic WWD WWD Style StartsHere September 13 13 September On-site at Coterie and 7th on Sixth. ™ WWD group publisher, at 212-630-4589, or your WWD sales representative. sales publisher, WWD 212-630-4589, your group at or For more information on advertising, contact Ralph Erardy, senior vice president Close: arrive fashionably early. fashionably arrive WWD August 30 August MediaWorldwide ® Coterie SPECIAL ISSUE SPECIAL

PHOTO BY TALAYA CENTENO