Guide to Oslo Guide to Oslo to Guide

NORDEA BANK PRESENTS A GUIDE TO OSLO GUIDE TO OSLO TO GUIDE

ANNUAL REPORT OF JSC NORDEA BANK 2015

GUIDE TO OSLO

JSC Nordea Bank 2015 Annual Report

Dear friends,

I am delighted to present Nordea Bank Russia’s Annual Report 2015 introducing Oslo, the capital of Norway. It is the fourth one in the annual series of travel guides issued by the Bank. However, this report is the first one I open in the capacity of CEO.

Upon taking the office after 12 years with the Bank’s Executive Board, I was interviewed for the company website and questioned on my biggest challenge as the new CEO. My answer was the need to change myself. Looking back later, I realized that any employee at the Bank could have given the same answer. Any manager, any employee of any company, and many others besides would acknowledge that the last year made them change a lot.

Back in 2014, we faced a lot of unexpected challenges. Things appeared both complicated and uncertain. We realized that the economic turbulence in the global and domestic markets would be long-term, and we began searching for new ap- proaches that would help us adapt to that reality. By 2015, we had a clear vision: what to do, what to change, and how to do it. We learned how to manage the changes we saw before us.

First, we decided to continuously improve our own efficiency by focusing on customers, business and internal process- es and assess all our activities from this perspective. Second, we wanted to have a stronger and deeper focus on risk management to ensure robust and stable performance. Third, we agreed to further promote relationships with our key customers — domestic and international companies operating in the Russian market — and remain their trusted partner. And, of course, we knew that we needed to take care of our employees, to motivate them, and to stay open and fair even in this challenging environment.

These targets have helped us to deliver efficiently this year, accomplishing everything we had planned and achieving all of our goals. I would like to thank all our customers for staying with us, and all my colleagues for working as one effective team.

Today, we once again invite you to make a trip to the north and enjoy its incredible nature, rich history and culture, delicious cuisine and ancient traditions. I hope that this new travel guide by Nordea Bank Russia will contribute to your unforgettable journey to Norway.

Best regards,

Mikhail Polyakov, CEO, Nordea Bank Russia

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33 33 6 36 64 11 28 HISTORY AND CULTURE 32 27

2 40 76 22 68 76 45 71 72 MUSEUMS

9 39 41 63 42 77 37 12 56 67 69 WALKS AND ENTERTAINMENT 69 57 60 55 40 57 48 46 31 29 54 43 3 RESTAURANTS AND CAFÉS 24 49

24 70 23 25

SHOPPING

78 61 47 NIGHTLIFE

4 17 94 52 ABOUT THE BANK

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68 76 45 71 72

9 39 41 77 37 63

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69 57 60 55 40 57 48 46 31 29 43 3

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49 C D E HISTORY AND CULTURE

WHAT IS OSLO?

Hva er Oslo?

[ VA AR OSLO? ]

There is a Norwegian saying that goes: “a favourite child has many names.” It is no surprise that the kingdom’s capital has changed its name three times in its thousand year history: first known as Oslo, it then became Christiania, then Kristiania, and finally Oslo again. The Norwegian people planned the city in a way that allows the majestic nature of the north, valued over all else, to pene- trate right into the very centre of the capital. It is only after you take a closer look amongst the mountains and fjords that you will discover a modern metropolis with a well-developed infrastructure and ample opportunities for work and leisure. With a little time, Oslo truly is a city to fall in love with.

6 ИСТОРИЯ И КУЛЬТУРА

A CITY DIARY

CAPITAL OF CONTRAS

Travellers visiting Oslo for the first time usually can’t wait to experience this unique capital city, combining the laid-back lifestyle of a small village with the fast pace of a modern metropolis. Oslo has surprisingly many facets: from quiet island life in small houses next to the water, hundreds of yachts gently swaying in the waves, to the rumble of metro trains heading for the Olympic Hill (Holmenkollen), past cows peacefully grazing at the royal farm, and the trumpets of a military orchestra marching down the main street. The dark blue fjord and the light blue sky, the green pines and the yellow sun, the red cherries and the purple sunset: in a single city there is an unlim- ited range of color to experience. www.visitoslo.com

7 ИСТОРИЯ И КУЛЬТУРА

CHRONICLES

OSLO BECOMES THE CAPITAL OF NORWAY

Although Oslo celebrated its 1000th anniversary in 2000, hunters and fishermen settled on the shores of the Oslofjord as early as five thousand years ago as the petroglyphs found on Ekberg hill sug- gest. In 1299, the King of Norway Haakon V moved the country’s capital from Bergen to Oslo and founded the Akerhus Fortress here. One hundred years later, Oslo lost its political status when Norway en- tered into a union with Denmark and Sweden, but the city still became an important trade port. The medieval wooden town burned down in fires several times until the Danish King Christian IV ordered for the city to be rebuilt in stone under the walls of the Akerhus For- tress in 1624.

49 The number of bells in the Eastern bell tower of Oslo’s Town Hall

FIELD OF GODS In 2016 the Norwegian Parliament Building ORIGINS OF OSLO’s NAME turned 150. This is where the 169 Nor Researchers have long debated the origins of the name Oslo. Some wegian MPs hold believe the word means “settlement at the mouth of the river Lo.” their meetings Others insist it means a “hilly field.” A few are adamant the word Oslo means the field of ases — ases being ancient Scandinavian gods. For 300 years, the city was named after the Danish King Chris- tian IV, during whose reign it was rebuilt anew from stone and brick after the devastating fire of 1624. In 1925, when Norway was once again the capital of an independent country, the people decided to restore the original name. 8 HISTORY AND CULTURE

OSLO’S PATRON SAINT

The LEGEND OF HALLVARD

Oslo Town Hall enjoyed its official opening ceremony on 15 May 1950. For many years, Oslo residents have celebrated the date as Saint Hallvard’s Day. You can see images of Saint Hallvard in the main room of the Town Hall as well as on the city’s coat of arms. Legend says 21 that 1000 years ago Hallvard was trying to save a pregnant woman February is when the when her pursuers shot him with an arrow and tried to drown his national flag of Nor body in the fjord, attaching a heavy mill stone to his neck. His body way is raised to com refused to sink, but instead floated to the surface with the stone still memorate the birth around his neck. The spot where he was buried was believed to have day of the Norwegian healing powers, with a number of other miracles also allegedly tak- King Harald V ing place there. Saint Hallvard’s remains are now buried in the Hallva- rdskiren church in Oslo.

5С2 Rådhusplassen 1

9 HISTORY AND CULTURE

KINGS AND SHIPS

KONGER OG SKIP

[ KONGER O SHIP ]

Oslo is a city of people who are strong both in body and in spirit. The modern Norwe- gians’ ancestors, the Vikings, whose traditions are honoured in Scandinavia to this day, were expert at building ships and mak- ing skis and skates. Today, even members of the ruling royal family take part and sometimes win in ski and sailing races. And it cannot be any other way as the marina is just a ten-minute walk from the Royal Pal- ace and the Olympic ski track in Holmenkol- len is half an hour by train.

10 ИСТОРИЯ И КУЛЬТУРА

The KING ON THE BALCONY

RESIDENCE OF THE ROYAL FAMILY IN OSLO

The royal residence in Oslo is located at 1, Palace Square. On the hill at the end of Karl Johan’s gate there stands a grand classic building surrounded by a picturesque garden and ponds. It was built in the first half of the 19th century and stand behind a statue of King Karl XIV Johan. The palace garden features numerous sculptures and flower beds, white swans swim in the ponds, and royal guards decked out in parade uniforms march in front of the palace. On May 17, Constitution Day, people dress up in national costume and gather in front of the palace, where the king waves to them from the balcony. The royal family spend their summers in residence on Bygdøy peninsula. During this time the palace is open to visitors.

5С2 Slottsplassen 1

11 HISTORY AND CULTURE

A CAPITAL OF GREAT NAVIGATORS

Norway’s Main Harbor

Norway has faced the ocean throughout its history, with the North Sea waves feeding its people far better than its barren northern soil. In fact, Oslo owes its origins to the convenient and safe harbour at the end of a long fjord, stretching on for kilometers. To- day, the capital’s port handles dozens of cargo and passenger vessels on a daily basis. In central Oslo, right at the foot of the Akerhus Fortress, there is a terminal that receives ferries from Denmark and Germany all year round. Bygdøy peninsula has several museums where you can see old Viking ships, Fridtjof Nansen’s schooner Fram and Thor Heyerdahl’s Kon-Tiki raft, and as soon as spring rolls in and the ice melts, the locals bring out hundreds of yachts into the fjord while water buses head for the numerous islands in the Oslofjord from the Pipervika pier.

Rådhusplassen

EMBANKMENT AT PORT

TRANSFORMATION OF AKER BRYGGE

A large number of ship repair shops opened up in Oslo in the mid- 19th century, eventually transforming into a large scale manufac- Joachim Bernhardsen, turing business. Along the banks of the river Aker (Akerselva) and Analyst, Research Norway in Pipervika bay you can find the country’s largest shipyards. They include the Akers Mekaniske Verksted shipyard, which was in operation GREFSENKOLLEN for 140 years until 1982. As time passed, the former shipyards turned My favourite place in Oslo into recreational areas with a large number of shops, cafes and the is Grefsenkollen. Grefsenkollen city’s best sea food restaurants. Today the Aker Brygge embankment is located high above the city and the recently created Tjuvholmen neighbourhood are popular at the edge of the capital’s destinations for both tourists and locals to enjoy good food, stock forests. Cross country tracks up on the latest fashions, see great art exhibitions, listen to some run right outside and for good music, or just to take a stroll down the embankment and swim hundreds of kilometers into in the Oslofjord. the woods. There’s a nice restaurant up there and it’s 5C3 Aker Brygge the perfect place for enjoying a cup of hot cocoa after a long cross country skiing trip while looking down on the city.

Oslo Skisenter, Rømckes vei 6, Kongsberg, www.oslo-skisenter.no

12 ИСТОРИЯ И КУЛЬТУРА

A sporting LIFESTYLE

GUNNING FOR RECORDS

People living in Oslo spend a good part of their free time enjoying different sports. Many start and end the day with a jog along the coast or along forest tracks. The number of cyclists is growing every year. Skis and skates in winter are replaced with football, basketball and golf in the summer. It’s no surprise that Oslo plays host to the Life expectancy world’s largest youth football event, as well as the famous sailing in Norway is 84 race in the Oslofjord. But before anything else, Oslo is the world’s for women and capital of skiing, hosting the Winter Olympics in 1952. Today, it regu- 80 for men larly hosts skiing and biathlon championships.

13 HISTORY AND CULTURE

GOT INSPIRATION?

HAR DU INSPIRASJON?

[ HAR SPIRASHUN? ]

composers, while the complex human re-

small city have prompted many writers

world many brave explorers. The dark wa-

inspiration here…

14 ИСТОРИЯ И КУЛЬТУРА

PORT OF INSPIRATION

OSLO CELEBRITIES

The walls of Henrik Ibsen’s apartment museum can still remember the look of their former owner sat at his desk, writing yet another masterpiece. An international festival dedicated to the works of the famous dramatist, who spent the last years of his life in Oslo, is held every two years in his memory. His plays remain relevant to this day and the festival enjoys great popularity. Another local celebrity is writer Knut Hamsun, who gained fame from the publication of his novel Hunger. The book described living on the brink of life and death in this very city.

15 HISTORY AND CULTURE

141 metres is the record ski jump performed in Holmenkollen in 2011 by Austrian Andreas Kofler E DVARD GRIEG

MUSIC OF SUCCESS

In its thousand-year history, Oslo has seen many talented greats. Norwegian composer Edvard Grieg lived here in the 19th century with his wife for 10 years. It was in Oslo that his career as a composer reached its peak: he wrote music, worked as a conductor and founded the Musical Association of Christiania. The Grieg Society in Oslo holds festivals and contests for young performers and composers, in his memory. At the entrance to the Gamle Logen concert hall, whose walls still remember Grieg’s magical music, there is a bust of the great composer himself — his music still loved for creating unforgettable Scandinavian imagery.

5D3 Grev Wedels plass 2

CAPITAL OF SPORTS

A CITY FOR THE STRONG IN SPIRIT

The proximity of nature, majestic green hills, breathtaking fjords, calm lakes, and thunderous waterfalls inspire many Norwegians to spend every free minute in the great outdoors. Norwegians’ easy access to outdoor sports is most likely the reason why so many have won Olympic gold medals for skiing. Oslo also is home to the three-time Olympic skiing champion Vegard Ulvang, while eight-time Olympic champion and nine-time world champion Bjørne Dæhlie has been living in the small town of Nannestad outside of Oslo for over 40 years. Legendary biathlete and the most celebrated sport- sperson in the history of skiing, Ole Einar Bjørndalen, was born not far from the capital on 27 January 1974. 16 HISTORY AND CULTURE

NANSEN, AMUNDSEN, HEYERDAHL

GREAT EXPLORERS AND TRAVELLERS

Fridtjof Nansen, famed polar explorer, founder of oceanography, and laureate of the Nobel peace prize, was born in a suburb of Oslo on 10 October 1861. He went on to recieve his degree at the University of Oslo, which was also boasts pioneer polar explorer Roald Amund- sen, the first person to reach the South Pole in 1911, amongst its alummni. In April 1926, Amundsen tested his Norway airship on Eke- berg hill and flew it over the North Pole two months later. Thor Hey- erdahl also graduated from the geography department at the Univer- sity of Oslo. The archaeologist and ethnographer put his academic theories to the test by crossing the oceans on the Kon-Tiki raft and in his bamboo boat Ra. The vessels of the Norwegian explorers and the documents detailing their expeditions are now on display in the maritime museums on the Bygdøy peninsula.

5Е4 Bygdøynesveien 36

26 000 people took part in the tradi tional Oslo marathon in 2014

17 HISTORY AND CULTURE

HAVE YOU SEEN A DEER IN A CHERRY GARDEN?

Har dere sett et rådyr i morellhagen?

[ HAR DERE SETT ET RODUR I MORELLHAGEN? ]

The residents of the Norwegian capital take good care of their local environment: the forested hills with their timid inhabitants — foxes, roe deer and squirrels — the dark lakes with their fish, the fjords and harbours with their squalling sea gulls... In summer, central Oslo can boast numerous beautiful flower beds, and when the temperature falls below zero, the city is adorned with billions of pre-Christmas lights. The ocean climate makes for pleasant laid-back walks, and the snow crunches under your feet even as you take a stroll in the very centre of Oslo. 18 U RBAN CURRANTS

GIFT OF THE GULFSTREAM

The wooded hills surrounding the harbour on three sides create a special Oslo microcli- mate: in winter, the temperature seldom drops below –10C while in summer, the air heats up to 23–25C, with the water in the fjord warming to 20–22 degrees. Thanks to the Gulf- stream and the range of hills surrounding it, Oslo has a mild climate with no strong winds or bad weather. In summer, currants and cherry trees bloom in the urban gardens, and the parks drown in the scent of roses. In autumn, when the shores of the fjord turn bright red and yellow, top class cider is made from the local pears and apples. In winter, the Oslofjord partial- ly freezes over, and the tops of the hills remain covered with snow for long enough to delight skiing enthusiasts. 19 HISTORY AND CULTURE

SWANS, BEAVERS AND MOOSE

LIFE IN A BIG CITY

Oslo has a relatively small population of less than a million — but that’s not counting the city’s furry inhabitants. During the day, squirrels jump from tree to tree in the Palace Park, while at night you can hear the rustling of bat wings as they fly overhead with the hoot- 18 ing of the owls. There are rabbits who run around the Oslofjord is- Parks offer open lands and white swans swimming in the ponds of Frognerparken air performances park- not too far from beavers stubbornly building their dams right as well as shade and on the Aker river. In the meantime, in the Nordmarka forests there Sunday fairs are roe deer grazing, badgers digging their holes, and moose, the hidden master of the forest depths. And as for the trolls, whose exist- ence the Norwegians strongly believe in, they are in no hurry to ex- pose themselves to the deadly rays of the sun.

THOUSANDS OF PINK ROSES

OSLO’S RICH SCENT

Norway’s national symbol may be the birch tree, but the trifoli- um, the symbol of Oslo, has been known in this region since the Bronze age. The mild climate of the Norwegian capital means that from spring to late autumn the city is filled with the scent of various bushes, trees and flowers. Among the multitude of rainbow- coloured flower beds and planters on the main street there are lindens smelling of honey, the Royal Palace is drowning in rich lilac aroma, and the square on the fjord embankment is smothered in vibrant tulips. As you enter Frognerparken you can see Norway’s largest collection of roses, made up of more than 14 000 bushes. Just follow the scent of jasmine to get to the famous Wheel of Life sculpture.

20 ИСТОРИЯ И КУЛЬТУРА

NORTHEN LIGHTS IN OSLO

59°54′45″ DEGREES OF NORTHERN LATITUDE

Oslo is located on the same latitude as Saint Petersburg. Even though the climate in the Norwegian capital is markedly different from that in the Russian city, Oslo is also able to enjoy the famous 103 000 “white nights.” In early summer, as the white nights take hold, life km is the length in Oslo never stops: there are singsongs in the parks, folk dance fes- of Norway’s coast tivals on the embankment, and salsa parties. In winter, the generous line, second in size Norway capital may give you a mysterious gift of untold value — the only to Canada pearly Northern Lights flaming against the velvet dark sky of Oslo. The dancing aurora creates a fairy tale sensation that you will never want to end. www.visitnorway.ru/things-to-do/nature-attractions/northern-lights

21 MUSEUMS

HOW DO I GET TO THE MUSEUM?

HVORDAN KOMMER JEG MEG TIL MUSEET?

[ VURDAN KOMMER YAI MAI TIL MUSEE? ]

Norway’s capital is full of surprises. On the top of Holmenkollen hill stands Europe’s oldest museum of skis, where the world’s longest ski pole sits proudly on display. In the cosy neighbourhood of Kvadraturen, you will find both the Museum of Mod- ern Art and the National Museum of Ar- chitecture. Next door, there’s the world’s only Museum of Miniature Bottles, as well as the Cinema House with a broad selection of movies. The famous Bygdøy peninsula is home to a whole cluster of sights: Viking ships and papyrus boats, legendary schooners and balsa rafts — all inviting you to par- take in the mysteries of their travels.

22 RAM SCHOONER MUSEUM

THREE VICTORIES OF AN ICEBREAKER

The three-mast schooner was built on the orders of Fridtjov Nans- en in 1892 for his expedition to the North Pole. Even at the time, it seemed as if the expedition was sure to succeed. The name Fram means “Forward” in Norwegian and its pioneering spirit combined with the knowledge and bravery of the Norwegian explorers onboard to ensure the success of the Fram’s three famous expeditions. Visi- tors at the Fram Museum can watch an exciting film about the dan- gers of the sea voyages, and even get onboard the legendary schooner to stand at her helm. You can also examine equipment belonging to the first man to reach the South Pole, Roald Amundsen, admire the view of the Northern Lights, try your hand as a polar explorer, and, finally, get your own small piece of the Fram: a copy of the last century utensils which were used on the schooner.

5B3 Bygdøynesveien 36, www.frammuseum.no MUSEUM OF VIKING SHIPS

IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF MEDIEVAL PIRATES

The era of the Vikings is full of mysteries. In the late 19th and early 20th century, the great longships that took these elite warriors on their final journeys were excavated from burial grounds in Nor- way. Now these longships are on display, allowing you to get a glimpse into the life of these medieval pirates and traders. There are three well preserved longships loaded with valuables such as weapons, decorations, utensils and fabrics — all buried in a thick layer of clay that shielded them from oxygen and allowed them to survive practically intact. After some restoration, the longships were put on display in the Museum of Viking Ships. The museum also has a carved sleigh and cart, images of animal heads and cats, a loom and items that the Vikings traded with.

5A3 Huk aveny 35, www.khm.uio.no/besok-oss/vikingskipshuset

KON-TIKI MUSEUM

ADVENTURES OF THOR HEYERDAHL

Thor Heyerdahl is famous far beyond Norway. It’s no wonder: in 1947 he crossed the Pacific Ocean from Peru to Polynesia on a tiny balsa raft in 101 days, disproving all conventional theories at the time 18 by showing that the first settlers of Polynesia could have come from million crowns South America. In 1970 he gathered an international team and crossed (in the modern equiv- the Atlantic on his Ra-2 sailing boat, showing that the ancient Egyp- alent) was allocated tians could have reached America long before Columbus. At this pri- by the Norwegian vate museum you can see the legendary Ra-2 boat alongside plen- parliament for the ty of artefacts found in archaeological digs. You can also watch construction of the some episodes from an Oscar-awarded documentary about Fram schooner, the Kon-Tiki voyage. which went on un- precedented expedi- 5A3 Bygdøynesveien 36, www.kon-tiki.no tions to Greenland, the Arctic and the Antarctic from 1893 to 1912

24 MUSEUMS

MARITIME MUSEUM SPIRIT OF VOYAGE 23,22 The relatively small country of Norway emerges on the edge of the metres is the length huge Atlantic Ocean. Located next to the Oslofjord, The Maritime of Gokstad Viking Museum lets you sense the spirit of maritime travel, discovering the longship found ways of this northern, seafaring land. Surrounded by schooners and in a suburb of Oslo boats, ship helms and sails, logs and compasses, you’ll soon feel like in 1879 an old skipper. Watch a movie about a breathtaking journey along the Norway’s coast on a panoramic screen, and learn about the history of the local ship building industry.

5A3 Bygdøynesveien 37, www.marmuseum.no

25 MUSEUMS

DO YOU LOVE ART?

LIKER DERE KUNST?

[ LIKER DERE KUNST? ]

Sitting between the coastal hills of the Oslofjord, the Norwegian capital has many treasures: art galleries and fashion houses, unique open air exhibitions and amazing museum collections. Oslo’s compact city centre is home to Norway’s best art museums: the National Gallery, the Muse- um of Modern Art, the Astrup Fearnley collection, the Museum of Decorative Arts and Design and many others.

26 NATIONAL GALLERY

NORWAY’S SOUL IN PICTURES

The Norwegian soul can truly be found at the National Gallery in Oslo. Here the beauty and grandeur of these harsh lands man- ifest in beautiful landscapes by the Norwegian romantic painters. The more realistic paintings of rural and urban life come alive in the visual stories and legends of Theodor Kittelsen. In addition to Norwe- gian pieces of art, the gallery also boasts a unique collection of French impressionists, post-impressionists and cubists. Rodin, Matisse, Degas, Picasso, Van Gogh, El Greco are just a few of the artists whose works are available in the collection of Oslo’s National Gallery.

5C2 Universitetsgata 13, www.nasjonalmuseet.no MUSEUMS

EDVARD MUNCH MUSEUM

THOUGHTS IN COLOUR

The unusual and innovative paintings of Norway’s most famous artist, Edvard Munch, have captured generations of artists and art aficionados around the world with their dark pallet and strong mental anguish. Shortly before his death in 1940, the great artist bequeathed his works to the municipal authorities of Oslo. Eighteen thousand graphic sketches and over a thousand paintings are carefully kept at the Edvard Munch Museum. The real jewel of the collection is the Scream — one of the most mysterious and expensive paintings of the 20th century. After the museum, have a cup of tea and a cake in the nearby botanical garden, and reflect on what you have just seen in the tiny café under the old ash tree.

5E2 Tøyengata 53, www.munchmuseet.no 28 Astrup Fearnley Museum

MODERN ART IN a MODERN FRAME

The Modern Arts Museum newest building was designed by the re- nowned Niels Torp Architects with famous Italian architect Renzo Pi- ano, and is rightfully regarded as a 21st century masterpiece. The museum invites you to experience and form your own views on the works of famous 20th and 21st century artists such as Francis Bacon, Andy Warhol, Cindy Sherman and Odd Nerdrum. The true treasure of the collection is the world’s largest and heaviest (32 tonnes) book- shelf crafted by Anselm Kifer, and Jeff Koons’ famous sculpture of a gold-plated monkey being embraced by Michael Jackson.

5C3 Strandpromenaden 2, www.afmuseet.no

11 HENIE-UNSTAD ARTS CENTRE Edvard Munch paintings adorn the con- ART AS VIEWED BY FIGURE SKATER vention hall at the University of Oslo In 1968, Norwegian figure skater and Olympic star Sonja Henie founded one of Norway’s most famous modern art centres some 10 km west of Oslo’s center. The museum’s collection boasts works by famous artists and sculptors from the mid-20th century, including Matisse, Miro, Picasso, De Staël, and Moore. There is also a special hall where you can see the famous figure skater’s trophies, including three Olympic gold medals. The Henie-Ustad center actively hosts exhibitions, concerts, seminars, and workshops for children.

Sonja Henies vei 31, Høvikodden, www.hok.no

29 MUSEUMS

ONCE UPON A TIME MANY YEARS AGO…

DET VAR EN GANG…

[ DET VAR EN GANG… ]

Norwegians treat their history and traditions with great care. Look at the huge number of museums devoted to life in Norway across the ages, and you’ll find exhibitions about the great polar explorers, museums focusing on the minutiae of medieval farms, information on the history of the national costume and the secrets of local jewellers, museums about the evolution of folk music and even exhibitions on local glass technology. Both simple and complex, well-known and surprising: together they weave a story about how the country lived many years ago…

30 FOLK / ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM

LINK OF TIMES

A shady forest is home to one of Europe’s oldest and largest open air museums. Some 200 structures ranging from peasant houses to barns, stables, bathhouses, mansions from all over Norway are gathered here in an eclectic collection of national colours. Hospita- ble guides wearing national costume and bunads will tell you about the ancient traditions of Norway while a local folk band play foot tapping dance music on Norwegian national instruments. Those who are fond of antiquities will appreciate the beauty of the 12 century wooden church with dragons sculpted on the roof. Guests are also treated to sugar candies in the bakery of the carefully recreat- ed old town.

5A3 Museumsveien 10, www.norskfolkemuseum.no MUSEUMS

HISTORY MUSEUM

COLLECTION OF NATIONAL ARTEFACTS

Belonging to the University of Oslo, the history museum’s collections are housed in a four-storey art nouveau building. There are huge numbers of gold artefacts dating back to the Viking era as well as other precious exhibits that are sure to be appreciated by anyone interested in jewellery or coins. The ethnographical collections give you a glimpse at ancient Egyptian mummies and sarcophagus- es, introduce you to the rich traditions of the Arctic and Sub-Arctic regions, and display the culture and art of East Asia. A collection of medieval Norwegian artefacts will be of special interest, as will 40 000 science and the collection of unique artefacts from the Roald Amundsen’s expe- technology exhibits dition along the Northern sea route in 1903–1906. are found in the Sci- ence and Technology 5С2 Frederiks gate 2, www.khm.uio.no/besok-oss/historisk-museum Museum

32 MUSEUMS

MUSEUM OF DECORATIVE ARTS AND DESIGN

SNAPSHOTS OF BEAUTY

The Museum of Decorative Arts and Design was founded 130 years ago. It is housed in an elegant brick townhouse in central Oslo and showcases a large collection of fashion, design and decorative arts items. In the halls of the museum you can find luxurious royal at- tire, old chests with traditional Norwegian decorative painting, mas- sive cups and delicate Norwegian pottery, church utensils and ornate jewellery as well as an impressive collection of glass and ceramics.

Olavs gate 1, 5D2 St. www.nasjonalmuseet.no/no/besok_oss/visningssteder/ kunstindustrimuseet

The English word POP MUSIC CENTRE Thursday comes from the name of the LIFE’S BUT A SONG Norwegian god Thor and was originally The interactive museum of Norwegian pop music in Oslo, the Pop- pronounced senteret, was opened in 2011 on the territory of an old Christian Thor’s Day Shuh beer brewery, being named Norweigian Museum of the Year just two years later. A vast collection of audio, video, artefacts and musical equipment allows visitors to trace the country’s pop history, while a recording studio on site allows people to try their hand at being a singer. Music lovers will be delighted to hear rare records and buy antique books in the Posenteret’s curiosity shop, while novices can go on many an excursion or attend a workshop organ- ised by the museum.

5E2 Тrondheimsveien. 2, www.popsenteret.no 33 MUSEUMS

ARE YOU AFRAID OF SPIDERS?

ER DERE REDDE FOR EDDERKOPPER?

[ ER DERE REDDE FOR EDERKOPPER? ]

Many Norwegian families spend their Sun- days on sports grounds and in museums. Children of any age can find something to do in Oslo. When the sun is out, mothers and their babies head to the amusement park for a broad variety of rides, while in cold weather children can enjoy the various excursions and workshops offered by the city’s sundry museums. Want to know what the first Nor- wegian plane looked like? Interested in what spiders and crocodiles eat? Fancy learning about how oil is extracted, or whether squeezing your eyes shut really can help you combat your fear? Kids can find answers and so much more in Oslo’s museums.

34 SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY MUSEUM

A TREAT FOR CHILDREN AND THEIR PARENTS

The century-old Norwegian Museum of Science and Technology is an interactive knowledge centre for kids and adults alike. Over 25 per- manent and rotating exhibitions will introduce you to science and technology. Have fun learning about various industries, telecommu- nications, information technologies, medicine, engineering, oil pro- duction and oil refining — just to name but a few. In this museum you will find the first car, the first plane and the first steam engine manufactured in Norway, plus a unique collection of time-pieces and musical instruments alongside hundreds of other interesting exhibits. On weekends and during school holidays, the museum offers fun workshops for all young lovers of science and technology.

Kjelsåsveien 143, www.tekniskmuseum.no MUSEUMS

INTERNATIONAL MUSEUM OF CHILDREN’S ART

COLOURS OF CHILDHOOD

Every once in a while, we all want to escape from the world of adult 600 problems and go back to our childhood: seeing the world around kg is the weight us in bright colours just the way that kids do. If you’re after an es- of the 7 meter monu- cape from grown-up life, then visit the International Museum ment to the paper- of Children’s Art in Oslo. The first of its kind, the museum’s goal clip erected in Oslo is to find and preserve the world’s best art created by children. Here in 1991 by Norwegian you can see the world through their eyes in a collection comprising stationery company of thousands of exhibits, including paintings, sculptures and sketch- O. Mustad & Son. es by children from over 150 countries. There is also a collection An invention resem- of unusual dolls from across the globe, and a library of children’s bling the modern pa- books in different languages. The museum also hosts exhibitions perclip was patented with specific themes, offers workshops, and generally celebrates by Norwegian Johan the colours of childhood. Voler back in 1901 Lille Frøens vei 4, www.barnekunst.no

REPTILES PARK

WHERE DID THE CROCODILE HAVE HIS LUNCH?

In the very heart of Oslo, not far from the Government quarter , there is a heavy door with a plaque depicting a green snake. Go through it and you enter a completely different world. It is dark in here and in the glass boxes of various shapes you will find grass snakes, py- thons, geckos and goannas, chameleons and brightly coloured poisonous frogs, macabre tarantulas and the world’s most poisonous spider, the black widow. The most popular inhabitant is the dwarf crocodile that looks glumly at the lively sea fish in the aquarium. The most daring visitors can hold the exotic reptiles or at least watch them being fed.

5D2 St. Olavs gate 2, www.reptilpark.no 36 TUSENFRYD AMUSEMENT PARK

ONLY STARS ARE ABOVE US

Just a 20-minute ride south of Oslo you find the popular Tusenfryd amusement park where the whole day can go unnoticed. The pic- 11 turesque grounds on a hill in a pine grove feature lots of rides for beaches can be found kids of all ages: there are bright merry-go-rounds for younger chil- in Oslo and its sub- dren, high wooden slides and a 5D horror room for adrenalin junkies, urbs if swimming and summer means the opening of the water park, paddling pools, is what you’re after rock climbing wall and cycling tracks. Tusenfryd’s special pride is the Viking Land theme park with a 4D cinema and medieval styled rides. If you do get hungry, there are plenty of little cafes spread across the park.

Høyungsletta 20, Vinterbro, www.tusenfryd.no 37 MUSEUMS

PEACE TO THE WORLD

FRED I VERDEN

[ FRED I VERDEN ]

The constantly warring Vikings are a thing of the past in Norway. These days the country is all about peace on Earth. The Nobel Centre, the Resistance Museum, and the In- ternational Theatre Festival bring together people who want to unpick the history of human conflict and endevour to prevent all such conflict in the future. It is no wonder that the doors to Oslo’s main administrative building, the Town Hall, are always open. The number of exhibitions and seminars on cooperation and avoiding conflict the city hosts is living proof of the value Norwegians place on good relations and peace.

38 TOWN HALL

SEEING THE MAYOR

The central square next to the fjord is where you can find the grand town hall building. Its towers have long been the landmark that people use to navigate through Oslo, while the sound of its bells creates a festive atmosphere in the city. The town hall is a multifunction- al structure: the high towers house the administrative offices, while the big conference hall in the central building is for holding various events, including the Nobel Peace Prize award ceremony. The town hall was completed in 1950 and is regarded as a typical example of Norwegian art and architecture of the early to mid-20th century. The stories you’ll find on the decorative paintings, tapestries and frescos inside will introduce you to the history and culture of this amazing country.

5C2 Rådhusplassen 1 MUSEUMS

MUSEUM OF THE RESISTANCE

WORLD WAR II THROUGH THE EYES OF THE NORWEGIANS

A small building with a tiled roof houses the Museum of the Resist- ance, dedicated to the huge tragedy — German occupation of Nor- way in 1940–1945. The five long years between the German invasion and the liberation of the country come to life in photographs, documents, posters, guerrilla leaflets, newspapers and audio recordings from the time. Self-made weapons, skis used by the guerrillas, un- derground printing presses and radios, are amongst the unique exhibits found in the museum. A special stand is also devoted to the Holocaust: of 760 Norwegian Jews, only 24 survived the Nazi occupation.To find out more about them, you can visit the Jewish Museum in Oslo or the Holocaust Centre on Bygdøy peninsula.

5C3 Bygning 21, Akershus festning, www.forsvaretsmuseer.no

IBSEN MUSEUM

THE ABODE OF A PLAYWRIGHT

The four storey townhouse across the street from Royal Park is where famous Norwegian writer Henrik Ibsen spent the last 11 years of his life alongside his wife. Their large apartment on the fourth floor features an antique piano and chandeliers, old furnac- The design of Oslo’s es covered in carvings, and elegant furniture from the late 19th cen- flag, featuring the tury, including heavy curtains and a collection of paintings from its city’s patron Saint famous owner. As you learn about the life and work of the famous Hallvard against writer, you can almost hear the ponderous footsteps of the famous a blue background, playwright himself. was approved in 2000 С2 5 Henrik Ibsens gate 26, www.norskfolkemuseum.no/en/Related-units/The-Ibsen-Museum

40 MUSEUMS

Nobel Peace Prize Centre

THE STORY OF ONE AWARD

The Nobel Peace prize is awarded every year in Oslo. The Nobel Peace Prize Centre tells visitors about the history of the award, its recipients, the conflicts they helped to resolve and about the never ending search for peace and cooperation. The centre features interactive exhibits, numerous seminars, contests for children and excursions for adults. The true aim to engage as many people as possible to the pursuit of world peace.

5C2 Brynjulf Bulls plass 1, www.nobelpeacecenter.org

1.30 pm is the time the guards change at the Royal Palace in Oslo

41 WALKS

WHERE DOES THE KING OF NORWAY LIVE?

Hvor bor kongen av Norge?

[ VUR BUR KONGEN AV NORGE? ]

For over 100 years now the Norwegian monarchs have had their official residence on a hill in the centre of Oslo while their summer residence is located on a peninsula 3 km from the Royal Palace. In the middle ages the royal family stayed in the stone fortress on the coast of the harbour that the rest of the city was built around in the 17th century. Going for a stroll through Oslo, make sure you wear comfortable shoes: the cobble- stone streets of the old town, the resound- ing corridors of the castle, the promenades leading to the palace will tell you about the history and life of the Norwegian capital. 42 ПРОГУЛКИ

SECRETS OF MEDIEVAL CASTLE

AKERHUS FORTRESS

On the rocky cliffs towering above Pipervika harbour there sits the medieval Akerhus castle. It was built in the 13th century by King Magnus V and over its history it fended off a lot of hostile attacks. Today it stands guard over Norway’s national relics: the royal mau- soleum and a chapel with an ornate altar, a large arsenal of weapons in the Military Museum and the grim artefacts of the Museum of the Resistance. Whether you are taking a stroll down the shady alleys of the park or looking at the solemn portraits hanging on the walls of the castle, you can’t escape the medieval spirit and the walls of the old prison still feel cold and uninviting.

C3 5 Festningsplassen, www.forsvarsbygg.no/festningene/Festningene/ Akershus-festning

43 WALKS

LEGENDS OF THE STONE TOWN

WALKING IN KVADRATUREN

The famous city planner, Danish King Christian IV, issued a decree in 1624 after a big fire that wiped Oslo off the map that a stone city was to be constructed around the walls of the Akerhus castle. The 99% king decreed that the streets in the new city be laid out in a grid pat- of Oslo residents tern, broad and intersecting at right angles. Today, the old Kvadra- are happy with their turen district has got all you need for a pleasant walk: art galleries quality of life ac- and modern art museums, pompous restaurants offering national cording to latest cuisine and cosy cafes smelling of pastry, noisy pubs and quiet gar- European commis- dens with fountains and benches under lilac bushes. sion studies www.kvadraturenoslo.no

44 ПРОГУЛКИ

A STROLL AROUND THE CENTRE AND ALONG THE EMBANKMENT

IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF THE CITY’S EVOLUTION

Taking a stroll down Oslo’s main street is like taking a lesson not just in the history of the city but also in the history of the kingdom of Norway as a whole. Karl Johan street is just one kilometre long but it is lined with all sorts of elegant buildings: the Royal Palace surrounded by a park, the Parliament Building, the National Theatre and the University of Oslo, the Town Hall and the Cathedral, the Grand Hotel and the Christiania Theatre. There is also a small park with lots of sculptures and fountains where a skating rink is open in winter. A five-minute walk away from the main street there’s the district of former shipyards, Aker-Brugge. In the past few years a new district called Tjuvholmen sprang up next to it. The city’s main embankment today is a combination of old architecture and new glass and concrete structures, stylish restaurants, fashionable museums and art galleries.

5D2 Karl Johans gate

Erik Johannes Bruce, Chief Analyst, Research Norway GRUNERLØKKA I love Grunerløkka. That is the area with lots of small trendy shops, cafes and restaurants offering fresh produce of their own make. It is also close PARADES, FAIRS AND FESTIVALS to the Akerselva (a river) and one could walk down there MAIN EVENTS OF THE CITY and visit the new Mathallen market. Here one could buy Every season in Oslo brings some events or other. Thus, in late food from all over the world spring, on 17 May, when the city is drowning in lilac, the country’s and, of course, Norwegian tra- main parade is held that commemorates the Day of the Constitution: ditional delicacies! it features brightly coloured national costumes and school bands Grünerløkka marching through the city centre, kids with flags and ice cream heading for the royal palace where the king and members of the royal family greet them from a balcony… Summer is a time of festivals: film festivals, food festivals, music festivals, sport and history festivals, you name it. Autumn is the harvest time and numerous farmers’ fairs open all over the city where you can buy fresh vegeta- bles and smoked meat that will last you through the winter as well as delicious fish, deer meat, whale meat, raspberry jam and other delicacies. Winter and spring is a time when Oslo hosts sporting and musical events. www.visitoslo.com/en/whats-on/festivals 45 WALKS

HOW MANY ISLANDS ARE THERE IN THE FJORD?

Hvor mange øyer er det i en fjord?

[ VUR MANGE EYER ER DE I EN FYORD? ]

Oslo residents are islanders in spirit as they live on about four dozen islands in the fjord. Many own houses on the shore of the bay and you can often see them on the open terraces of their properties, admir- ing the sunset with a glass of wine in hand. Some love to move in next to well-appoint- ed parks and as they’re heading home after work they enjoy breathing in the honey aroma of the lime trees while others prefer the primeval nature of the islands.

46 ПРОГУЛКИ

ISLAND PARADISE

QUIET IDYL OF THE FJORD ISLANDS

At first sight Oslo looks compact but those in the know are aware that in terms of territory Oslo is one of the largest capital cities in Europe. It includes about 40 islands in the fjord, each of which has a legend of its own. Thus Bygdøy peninsula is home to 6 museums and the summer residence of the Norwegian monarchs, Hyvedeya island has the stone ruins of a Cistercian monastery, Langeyne island offers the best sand beaches in town while Gressholmen, Ram- bergeya and Heggholmen with their cosy harbours are perfect picnic destinations. It takes about 10 minutes by ferry to get away from the hustle and bustle of central Oslo to the idyllic peace and quiet of island life.

5C4 www.oslofjorden.com

47 ПРОГУЛКИ

CONQUERING THE MARBLE ICEBERG

WALKING ON THE ROOF OF THE OPERA THEATRE

Finding a way out of the labyrinth of alleys and bridges in the new district is no easy task. The Barcode Project development in Bjørvika is a treat for lovers of modern architecture. The tall, narrow build- 17 000 ings, so incongruous with the style of the old town, reflect the set- glass elements ting sun in elaborate patterns. You can finish your tour of the Norwe- were manufactured gian Manhattan by taking a stroll on the marble rooftop of the Opera by Hadland Gassverk and Ballet Theater, towering over the Oslofjord like an iceberg. In ad- for the 4 tonne dition to top-notch productions, the theatre is famous for its unique sound reflecting design. The building won Norwegian company Snøhetta several pres- chandelier at the tigious awards. new Opera Theatre 5D3 Kirsten Flagstads Plass 1, www.operaen.no

48 WALKS

RNIGHT O THE COAST

RELAXING ON THE BEACH AND FISHING

Relaxing on the beach and fishing are becoming more and more popular in this northern city, where the water temperature reaches 25C in the summer. The sandy beaches on Bygdøy peninsula have always been popular, but new beaches opening in the Tjuvholmen and Serenga districts are perfect for swimming just minutes from the city centre, fashionable bars, cafes and museums. The new ten-kilometre long embankment along the Oslofjord is the pride of Oslo and a perfect spot for jogging, sightseeing and fishing.

5B3 Bygdøy

S EA BreeZE

T OUR OF THE FJORD

Many Oslo residents love to take to the waves, following in the steps of the Vikings every weekend by boarding their yachts and traveling by sea. The Oslofjord is more than a hundred kilometres long and is full of picturesque islands and cosy harbors. Plenty of brightly Alexander Koss, coloured houses line the shores — weekend retreats for Norwegian Group Internal Audit urbanites. Typical summer pastimes include camping and picnick- ing on the islands, swimming in the fjord, catching crabs, or fishing THE ISLANDS in the sea. If you want to travel further afield, there are comfortable If you’re keen on boating, then ferries that can take you to the neighbouring Denmark and Germa- I would recommend that you ny overnight. take a look at the city from the sea. Several islands in the in- 5B4 www.sognefjord.no nermost part of the Oslofjord can be reached with public ferries from Rådhuskaia in the city centre. The short boat trip offers great views of both the city and the fjord. Popular destinations include Hovedøya, Langøyene and Gressholmen. All of the islands also have good spots for swimming.

49 WALKS

LET’S GO LOOK AT SOME SCULPTURES

Vi skal se på skulpturer

[ VI SKAL SE PO SKULPTURER ]

Oslo residents often stay in the city even while on holiday: unsurprising when you- see just how many museums, galleries, cafes, restaurants and sporting oppotuni- ties the capital has to offer. Oslo is an ideal holiday destination, and the parks and forests around the city have plenty of surprises in store: from unusual sculptures which blend into the surrounding landscape, to the simple beauty of a honey fungus family hidden under a tree.

50 ПРОГУЛКИ

200 WAYS TO TALK ABOUT THE ETERNAL

THE PARK AND THE SCULPTURE MUSEUM OF GUSTAV VIGELAND

Western Oslo is home to Frogner Park, a favourite destination for locals and tourists alike. You can find so much here: the Oslo city museum, a kids’ puppet theatre, Norway’s largest rose garden, a summer water park, tennis courts in the summer and a skating rink in winter. The main attractions are the early mid-20th century sculptures by Gustav Vigeland, including a 17 metre granite obelisk and a fountain surrounded by 20 bronze statues. There are some 58 sculptures on one 100-metre bridge including the unofficial symbol of Oslo, the Angry Boy. Let Vigeland’s work guide and inspire you, as the great artist explores the meaning of life — and humanity’s journey through it — in over 200 pieces. If you want to learn more about the art and ideas behind the work, visit the Gustav Vigeland museum.

5B1 Kirkeveien, www.vigeland.museum.no/en/vigeland-park

51 WALKS

Elisabeth Danbolt, Senior Internal Auditor, Group Internal Audit Tryvann Vinterpark During summertime I would recommend taking the Metro up to the climbing park (Oslo Summerpark) near Tryvann. There you can climb up and swing between the trees us- ing zip lines. You can choose family routes or more extreme paths — or perhaps something in between. The best part HIR GH A T ON THE HIGH CLIFFS is that you challenge yourself OVER THE FJORD and get out of your comfort zone in complete safety. OPEN AIR COLLECTION OF UNIQUE SCULPTURES

Tryvannsveien 64, You can spend an entire day on the high Ekeberg hill, discovering www.oslovinterpark.no Stone Age cave art or the colonnade of the naval academy, or even ascending the rock climbing wall. Among the age old pines you can enjoy the work of the world famous sculptors from centuries past — Auguste Rodin, Renoir, Aristid Maoil, and Salvador Dali — blended harmoniously with installations by modern artists.

5E4 Kongsveien 23, www.ekebergparken.com

52 ПРОГУЛКИ

DO YOU ENJOY GOING FOR RIDES?

BEST WAY TO GET TO KNOW OSLO

Norwegians love staying active and their capital is a great place for it. You can rent a bicycle to ride around the city, or use Oslo’s oldest public transport system, the tram. Alternatively, you can take the metro and head to the Olympic ski jump on Holmenkollen to enjoy a breathtaking view of the city. The viewing area at the Skiing Muse- um or the Ferris wheel at the central Christmas fair are both prime spots to appreciate Oslo’s beauty from afar. Boats and canoes al- low you to enjoy the beauty of the fjord coast in summer, while the winter is the perfect for skiing or riding in a dog sleigh amongst the snow covered conifers of the local forests. www.oslobysykkel.no/information-in-english

PICKING MUSHROOMS AND BERRIES IN OSLO

WORLD OF PINE FORESTS

Oslo authorities have designated almost half of the capital’s territory as protected, non-development zones. The city’s trademark is the recreational area located across Oslo: pine forests, waterfalls, streams and lakes. The surrounding hills with their winding tracks brim with the scent of forest berries, while in the autumn you can easily pick all kinds of mushrooms without leaving the city. All forest and skiing tracks are equipped with artificial lighting for those who enjoy active recreation on Holmenkollen hill throughout the winter. 15.4 km is the length Head that way yourself to find the famous Olympic ski jump. of Oslo’s longest river, the Alna. Bicy- www.visitoslo.com/en/articles/nordmarka-forest/ cle tracks were built all along the banks, as well as recreation areas and beaches

53 RESTAURANTS, CAFES AND MARKETS

A DOZEN OYSTERS, PLEASE!

KAN JEG FÅ ET DUSIN ØSTERS, ER DU SNILL?

[ KAN YAI FO ET DUSIN YOSTESH, ER DU SNILL? ]

Aker Brygge and Tjuvholmen are unique neighborhoods filled with brick structures, old shipyards and new architectural works. The area is replete with fashionable galleries, art museums and shops, but the most prominent attraction is the city’s embankment. Lined with restaurants and cafes, you’re sure to find something to cater for any taste and any budget. In summer, both tourists and locals can enjoy the fresh seafood, while in winter they sit around the fireplace, praising the quality of the Norwegian national drink Aquevitt andother traditional Christmas dishes.

54 Onda

LUNCH WITH A VIEW

Under an elegant wooden roof in the Oslofjord you can find one of Oslo’s favourite restaurants, Onda. A 270-degree panorama of the fjord, waves rustling, a view of the majestic Ekeberg hill and mysterious Akershus Castle, let alone, fresh seafood has made. Onda has become ultimate destination for culinary pilgrimage by tourists and locals alike. The restaurant is made up of two facilities sharing one roof. In the Onda Grill you can order grilled king crab and mutton saddle, while in the Onda Sea you can expect smoked salmon with avocado and exceptional oysters.

5C3 Stranden 30, www.onda.no

55 RESTAURANTS, CAFES AND MARKETS

Louise

DINNER WITH SEA SMACK

Located right next to the water in a former shipyard, the Louise restaurant doubles as a museum. The brick building on the embankment has more than 1000 exhibits on display, all related to the sea, travel and ship building. In winter, it is a perfect place to taste a huge wine collection to the sound of logs crackling in the fireplace. In summer, it’s better to move out onto the terrace to watch the yachts sailing lazily by as you eat the famous fish soup with cream.

5C3 Stranden 3, www.dslouise.no

56 RESTAURANTS, CAFES AND MARKETS

90 litres of milk and Lofoten 19 kg of cheese is the amount consumed ISLAND IN A SEA OF FISH by an average Norwe- gian per year. Brown The Lofoten islands are a harsh fishing land on the north-western goat cheese is a fa- coast of Norway. It is no surprise that the Oslo restaurant named mous local flavour in their honor boasts a rather Spartan interior. At the entrance, a bug-eyed lobster inspects the visitors from a fish tank. Nothing should distract people from tasting the catch. The staff are always ready to help you navigate the seemingly endless menu of delicacies: steamed Atlantic cod, fried trout with carrot crème, mussels with ginger… The festival of gourmet food is complemented with a beautiful view from the open terrace onto the bustling Aker Brygge embankment and the winding shoreline of Oslofjord.

5C3 Stranden 75, www.lofoten-fiskerestaurant.no

Tjuvholmen Sjømagasin

CLASSES IN A RESTAURANT

As the capital of a great maritime country, Oslo has plenty of seafood restaurants. This one however, is where the best chefs from all over Europe come to learn the art of cooking seafood. Tjuvholmen Sjømagasin is a stylish modern restaurant with a great kitchen and an impressive selection of wines. It often hosts culinary courses for professionals and novices alike, as well as wine tasting events with the best sommelier of the country. The restaurant’s small fish shop offers not only seafood delicacies, but also valuable advice and recommendations on how to best cook them at home.

5C3 Tjuvholmen allé 14, www.sjomagasinet.no 57 RESTAURANTS, CAFES AND MARKETS

FANCY DINING IN THE MOUNTAINS?

Liker dere å spise middag på fjellet?

[ LIKER DERE O SPISE MIDDAG PO FYELLE? ]

Central Oslo is surrounded by wooded slopes perfect for hiking and skiing. Climb to the summit to enjoy a bird’s eye view of the city, the bay and the picturesque islands in the Oslofjord. Many Nor- wegians spend weekends in the wild, with whole families backpacking in the mountains or snowboarding amongst the snowy peaks. One way or another, every evening ends with a dinner at one of the cosy mountain restaurants. Your favourite Scandina- vian dishes, mountain air, and a panoramic view of Oslo: that’s the recipe for a perfect Norwegian meal.

58 Frognerseteren

DINNER IN A DRAGON’S LAIR

If you get tired of the bustling city streets and yearn for some peace and quiet, head out to the summit of Holmenkollen. There wea- ry travelers can relax in the wooden manor house, decorated with ornate dragon carvings on the walls. Here, the local gather around the fireplace to discuss recipes for traditional Norwegian dishes. All of them are cooked with great care here at the manor house restaurant: sour cream mush, deer cutlets with mashed peas, fried whale meat with pepper sauce and spinach, and legendary apple pie. In this historic restaurant, you can taste the food of northern hunters and fishermen while enjoying a panoramic view of the city.

Holmenkollveien 200, www.frognerseteren.no

59 RESTAURANTS, CAFES AND MARKETS

Unni Stroemstad, Communications, Nordea Norway Hanami If you’re taking a walk through the Tjuvholmen sculpture park, don’t miss the Astrup Fernley museum: a newly built museum of contem- porary art in the western part of the park. If you get hungry, I would recommend Hanami — a great restaurant for Asian food situated nearby. You can sit by the seaside and enjoy quality Japanese seafood and grill.

5C3

Kanalen 1, www.hanami.no

De Fem Stuer

EUROPEAN CUISINE WITH A NORWEGIAN ACCENT

700 The red mansion of the Scandic Holmenkollen Park restaurant and NOK is an average hotel complex, standing on the slopes of Holmenkollen, is a favour- price for a restaurant ite destination for nature lovers and athletes. Not only is the Olym- lunch with a main pic ski jump right the next door, but the complex ‘s breath-taking course and a glass view of Oslo and fairy tale architecture has become a calling card of wine for these parts. The De Fem Stuer restaurant offers the best international cuisine you can find in Norway. Appreciate the unique wooden style of the manor house while sampling a selection of delicious dishes at a candle-lit Sunday brunch.

Kongeveien 26, www.holmenkollenparkhotel.no/en/defemstuer

60 EkebergRestauranten

A MEAL IN A SCULPTURE PARK

High up on the Ekeberg hill stands a beautiful mansion built in the sleek functionalist style; easily seen against a background of dark green pines. Everything here is an aid to relaxation: from the viewing point down onto the bay and the city itself, to the huge sun terrace where seafoods and meat are grilled in summer. After a good meal you can take a walk down the winding forest paths of Ekeberg Park, ready to discover the works of the 20th and 21st century sculptors as they blend harmoniously with the landscape.

5E4 Kongsveien 15, 0193 Oslo www.ekebergrestauranten.com

Grefsenkollen

FOREST RESTAURANT

Grefsenkollen hill in Oslo has numerous hiking paths. In spring, the forest smells of fresh grass and flowers, while in autumn, the scent of wild raspberry lingers everywhere. As well as the stunning view of Oslo, a small wooden cottage is waiting for you at the top of the hill. In the cottage’s large hall, resplendent with its large fireplace, can enoy smoked eel soup with apples, ice cream and cinnamon for dessert. Starched white cloths on the tables and black and white photos on the walls create an atmosphere of nostalgia in the restaurant, which sits on one of the city’s most spectacular viewing points.

Grefsenkollveien 100, www.grefsenkollen.no

61 RESTAURANTS, CAFES AND MARKETS

WHAT’S THE TASTE OF NORWAY?

Hva er smaken av Norge?

[ VA AR SMAKEN AV NORGE? ]

In the past ten years, the gastronomical map of Oslo has got significantly bigger: there are now plenty of new culinary centres and gourmet boutiques for anyone who wants to figure out the ins and outs of the national cuisine. Oslo has about 100 restaurants and cafes ready to welcome you into a world of gastronomical tradition, giving you a real taste of Norway and the world. Three eateries have Michelin stars and will make any gourmet happy with the explo- sions of taste on offer.

62 РЕСТОРАНЫ, КАФЕ, РЫНКИ

Maaemo

EXCLUSIVE CUISINE NORWEGIAN STYLE

When the Maaemo restaurant opened in the very heart of Oslo in 2010, it was an international culinary event. Out- standing Norwegian chef Esben Holmboe Bang has not only received three Michelin stars, but recognition as one of the 100 best restaurants of the world. Norway’s natu- ral beauty is expressed in an excellent menu of more than 20 dishes that change every season. The light hall looking out over the Norwegian Manhattan accommodates only eight tables. The culinary show lasts an entire evening. The final touch to his masterpiece the chef puts himself in front of your eyes.

5E2 Schweigaards gate 15B, www.maaemo.no

63 RESTAURANTS, CAFES AND MARKETS

Fjord

a GASTRONOMICAL SYMPHONY

A short distance from Oslo’s Royal Park stands one of the best seafood restaurants in the capital. The name Fjord requires no expla- nation: the restaurant serves seasonal seafood delicacies prepared in the best possible way. The impeccable wine selection and the unmatched virtuosity of the chef are the main draws for patrons. The concept is simple: a dark blue interior and a menu consisting of six dishes, flawlessly combining Norwegian seafood with exquisite drinks selected by one of the best sommeliers in Oslo. The furniture is upholstered with chocolate coloured velvet. Add atmospheric purple lighting and you have an atmosphere of understated luxury — spot on for when it comes to enjoying Norwegian seafood delicacies.

5C2 Kristian August gate 11, www.restaurantfjord.no

64 RESTAURANTS, CAFES AND MARKETS Østbanhallen-Ø

INTERSECTION OF TASTES

In 2015, Oslo’s old Eastern train station was converted into a true intersection of tastes. The now stylish food court consists of eight restaurants and a gourmet food market. Even as you walk through the doors, the flavour of coffee and fresh pastries are sure to draw you inside. The original metal structures support a fragile glazed domed roof, ensuring it is light and cosy inside regardless of the weather. Beer from the local brewery complements the menu at the pub inside and is bound to be appreciated by anyone who likes good home- cooking. Culinary traditions from Norway, France, Italy and Asia can also be found in the restaurants and cafes throughout the building, catering to the tastes of travellers from around the world.

5D2 Jernbanetorget 1, 0154 Oslo, www.ostbanehallen.no

Mathallen

WORLD OF CULINARY DISCOVERIES

The Mathallen culinary and gastronomical centre was opened in a renovated 20th century factory back in 2012. Now it houses over 30 gourmet boutiques, bars and restaurants, with menus offering Norwegian, Italian, French, German and Asian cuisine. Here you can taste just about anything under one roof. The best local producers combine with tasting departments, workshops and shops to ensure oneculinary discovery after another. In Mathallen’s relaxed atmosphere you can enjoy over one hundred cheeses, foamy cider, Nor- wegian beer from small mountain breweries, and dandelion jam and heather honey. The smiling chefs at the fishmongers might even 12 be able to tell you in which fjord your meal was caught. spices are used in Norwegian Christ- 5D1 Vulkan 5, www.mathallenoslo.no mas festivals and viands. They include cinnamon, vanil- la, cloves, nutmeg, juniper berry and cardamom

65 RESTAURANTS, CAFES AND MARKETS

WHERE DID HENRIK IBSEN HAVE LUNCH?

Hvor har Henrik Ibsen spist?

[ VUR HAR HENRIK IBSEN SPIST? ]

Oslo is over one thousand years old. What was once a small settlement of wooden cabins at the foot of Ekeberg hill has now- grown into a large 21st century metropolis with a bustling nightlife and outstand- ing restaurants to surprise even the most sophisticated gourmets. Immerse yourself in the history of this unusual city: discover the interior of a 17th century jeweller’s house, look at the portraits in theatre café, and check out the favourite café of writer Henrik Ibsen — perfect for tasting the classic Norwegian herring.

66 РЕСТОРАНЫ, КАФЕ, РЫНКИ

Gamle Raadhus

PTION AT THE TOWN hall

Danish king Christian IV built Oslo’s town hall built in 1641. In addition to offices and the hall itself, the building originally also housed the town jail. In the 19th century, the building was the seat of the Su- preme Court, and in the 20th century, it was home to the local ma- sonic lodge. Today, the old town hall is a cosy restaurant with a classic interior, offering a great seasonal menu. Between October and December you can come here to enjoy the Norwegian Christmas delicacy lutefisk, or fish soaked in alkaline solution. Between January and March, pink Lofoten cod is served. In spring, they offer dishes with asparagus, while in summer and early autumn you can discover culinary masterpieces made from seafood, game and wild fowl.

5D3 Nedre Slottsgate 1, www.gamleraadhus.no

67 RESTAURANTS, CAFES AND MARKETS Theatercafeen

MEET THE IN-CROWD

Opened across the street from the National theatre in 1900, the Theatercafeen has become the favourite meeting spot for Oslo’s in-crowd. Artists, politicians and university professors all gather here to engage in conversation over a cup of choice coffee. For over 30 100 years, people have been coming here to discuss theatrical pre- NOK is the average miers, celebrate anniversaries, or just enjoy the top-class seasonal price of a cup of cof- menus.Under the high arched ceilings of this Viennese-style café, fee in Oslo’s cafés you’ll be able to see over 80 portraits of Norwegian artists, actors and performers that have frequented the establishment both past and present.

C2 5 Stortingsgaten 24–26, www.theatercafeen.com

7 types of pastry are traditionally served at Christmas dinner by Norwegian families

68 Engebret

FACES OF HISTORY

For over 150 years, the Engebret restaurant has been welcoming customers to its green garden on Bank Square in the Kvadraturen neighbourhood. Henrik Ibsen, Edvard Grieg, Knut Hamsun, Edvard Munch all loved this place, and artists, writers, journalists and actors all fre- quent Engebret to this day. Dropping by the restaurant is the perfect finale to a tour of Kvadraturen with its 10 museums. Here you can try traditional Norwegian dishes such as home salted herring, cold smoked whale fillet, deer carpaccio with fried goat cheese, roe deer medallion with thyme and mashed celery.

5D3 Bankplassen 1, www.engebret-cafe.no

Statsholdergaarden

TRIUMPH OF TASTE AND STYLE

One of the oldest estates in central Oslo is the mid-17th century home of jeweller Peter Gruner. Within the walls of this exquisite establishment the hustle and bustle of the big metropolis gives way to the luxury of the old interior and exuberance of exquisite taste. High ceilings with stuccos, crystal chandeliers, heavy curtains and choice wines in the cellar make for an ideal environment for a top class restaurant, which now boasts a Michelin star. Choice dishes include turtledove breast with currant sauce, ray fish and artichokes, and duck hearts and chestnuts. The arched wine cellar sports more ascetic interior and more democratic prices. Every 6 weeks gourmets can try a new 10-dish menu from famous chef Bent Stiansen. 3,08 5D3 Rådhusgate 11, www.statholdergaarden.no meters is the height of the world’s largest ice cream cone, made by Norwegian company Hennig-Olsen. It was registered by the Guinness book of Records experts in 2015

69 SHOPPING

A SHOPPING TRIP TO THE CAPITAL

Kjøper gaver i hovedstaden

[ SCHOPER GAVER I HUVEDSTADEN ]

The 21st century Oslo is a sprawling metropolis with a rather compact central area. Its layout enables you to quickly navigate through numerous department stores, boutiques and small shops. World famous luxury brands are found in the city centre, while the district behind Royal Park is known for its exclusive boutiques: perfect for finding a cocktail dress to wear for a dinner party or reception. The streets ad- jacent to the University of Oslo are home to numerous second-hand book stores and curiosity shops.

70 MAGIC OF RETAIL CENTRES

FASHION TRENDS IN CENTRAL OSLO

Oslo’s main street, Karl Johans gate, is awash in fashionable retail centres. The most popular shopping destinations in Oslo are City and Byporten. The Paleet department store, with its honey color ed interiors, exudes luxury, and offers three dozen or more exclu sive boutiques alongside restaurants and cafes. The Edge retail centre is home to more than 300 fashionable clothing and acces sories brands from all around the world. A short distance from Karl Johans gate you can find the oldest department store in town, Steen og Strøm. Its six floors house clothes shops for children and adults as well as spas, salons, and cafes.

5D2 Karl Johans gate SHOPPING

1st place in Europe in terms of per capita candle consumption belongs to Norway. BEAUTY SCAND The modern de- scendants of the LOOKING FOR NATIONAL TREASURE Vikings love warmth and cosiness and Glassmagasinet opened its doors in 1899. For over one hundred years decorative candles it’s been drawing both locals and tourists in the search for gifts for are lit up in Norwe- family and friends. An endlessly broad range of interior items both gian homes regard- by famous Scandinavian and foreign designers are on show here. less of whether it is There is also a broad selection of glass and porcelain items, silver, a holiday or not and tin utensils. Want to pick up a truly Scandinavian souvenir? A chandelier shaped like deer antlers or a wooden penguin figurine? Perhaps an apple made from a cork tree? Head for House of Oslo, Norway Designs and Pur norsk. Be sure to take note of the blue Tax Free Global Blue Norway emblem: you can get a 19 percent refund on that item’s price when you leave Norway.

5D2 Stortorvet 9, www.glasmagasinet.com

FASHIONISTAS

OSLO’S BOUTIQUE DISTRICTS

Oslo’s compact city centre means that you can simply walk from one trendy district to another. The best place to start is in the shops next to the Royal Palace in Hegdehaugsveien street. Having taken in the bright showcases, you can gradually move towards the city’s main shopping street, Bogstadveien. Here you can buy clothes for adults and children, sports goods and furniture. After having a cup of cof fee in one of the cosy snack bars on Bogstaveien, go on to Bygdøy allé. Here, even the pickiest fashionistas are going to find something to buy. If you are into the latest youth fashion trends, head for Grun nerløkka on the Aker Brygge embankment.

72 SHOPPING

A Great TREAT FOR BARGAIN HUNTERS

OSA LO S LES

There is very little traffic in Oslo, and the city seems to have been custom designed for leisurely walking from shop to shop. Spacious 17 retail centres are staffed with polite personnel to make shopping billion crowns was a really pleasant and relaxing experience — rather than a chore. spent by the Norwe- Many shops offer various sales all year round, but twice a year, af gians to buy sporting ter Christmas and at the end of summer, the major department equipment in 2015 stores are abuzz with crowds of shoppers ready for the sales season. A sale in Oslo means that good quality items can be had for as much as 70 percent discount, perfect for treating yourself or buying gifts for friends and family.

73 SHOPPING

H ave you got a Viking helmet?

Har dere en vikinghjelm?

[ HAR Dere EN VIKINGYELM? ]

The ergonomic design of Scandinavian furniture and interior items and subdued colours of Scandinavian fashion are becoming more and more popular all over the world. Nevertheless, hand-crafted folk items ra- diating warmth and love can still be found here: from chests with rosemaling patterns or hand-sewn national bunads, to wooden kitchen utensils or warm woollen plaids. Mysterious trolls, hand-painted plates, Thune golden brooches or smoked deer meat and heather honey: choosing your perfect Oslo souvenir is up to you!

74 FROM NORWAY WITH LOVE…

NOR WEgian SOUVENIRS

In the harsh Norwegian cli mate, woollen garments make up the core of an yone’s winter wardrobe. It is no surprise that high- quality warm sweaters with traditional Scandina vian patterns are a popular gift, alongside troll figures and Viking helmets. Souve nirs with which to remem ber Norway can be found in the two-storey Troll Shop in central Oslo. Luxu ry woollen clothes blend ing traditional and modern fashion trends, multi- coloured cardigans and vests, palatines and acces sories to go with them can all be bought in the Oleana boutique. And if you’re af ter national costumes and folk craft items, such as kitchen utensils and other useful hand-craft ed items, Der Norske Hus fliden is your destination of choice.

75 SHOPPING

3000 NOSTALGIA FOR EUR is the average A REASONABLE PRICE price for a Norwegian bunad made to or- ANTIQUE SHOPS AND SUNDAY MARKETS IN OSLO der. The whole process, from taking the The weekend is a good time to learn about the past, rediscovering the measurements to de- beauty of porcelain figurines, the wisdom of old leather bound books, livering the bunada, and the cozy glow of a worn lamp. If used books and antique jewel takes 2 months lery is your thing, head for the antique shops on Universitetsgaten. If you want to come across something from the days of yore, check out the weekend flea markets on Vestkanttorvet square and in Birke lunden park. You can also head for the unusual creative centre of Blå to find the most unorthodox blending of the old and the new, from modern designer items to items worn by fashionistas of the 30s.

FOLK CRAFTS IN NORWAY

AGE OLD BEAUTY STANDARDS

Just over a hundred years ago, Norway was one of the poorest nations in Europe. Gold and other expensive materials were a rarity that only the kings could afford. Local standards of hand-crafted beauty naturally emerged in far-flung villages and farms. People used whatever materials they could get their hands on: iron, wood, and tin. They often ended up creating true masterpieces that you can find today in the Den Norske Husfliden shop. Here you can see luxurious folk costumes with elaborate hand-made embroideries and tradition al silver adornments from the various regions of the country. There are also features on patterned wooden utensils and heavy tinware, as well as lots of useful little hand-made items for the home.

5D2 Stortorvet 9

76 SHOPPING

EDII BLE G FTS FROM THE CAPITAL

SMOKED FISH, GOAT CHEESE AND CLOUDBERRY JAM

Norway has always been famous for its seafood delicacies.The locals both fish and hunt, and when the table is set, game and fowl stand alongside fish, cheeses and sauces. Fenaknoken stands just a few 57 minutes walk from the Town Hall on Tordenskiolds Gate Street and is the average num- sells Norwegian culinary curiosities. There you can find deer tongue, ber of times each smoked moose meat, condensed milk flavoured cheese, aromatic year that a Norwe- raspberry honey, Norwegian beer, port wine from local breweries gian household buys and, of course, all kinds of fish. fish or other seafoods: cod and trout 5С2 Tordenskiolds gate 12 are the traditional favourites

77 NIGHTLIFE

Shall we dance or play chess?

SKAL VI DANSE ELLER SPILLE SJAKK?

[ SKAL VI DANSE ELLER SPILLE SHAKK? ]

The night life in Norway’s capital is different from the noisy parties in other European cities. Most clubs here don’t have a dress code and close at 3 am. Here everyone can find something to entertain: whether it is Irish folk, dark metal, salsa dancing or techno-trance or perhaps just a cosy leather chair and a heart-to-heart talk. Oslo’s nightlife has something to offer everyone.

78 Blå

CREATIVE EXPLOSION ON THE RIVER BANK

Norway’s creative personalities meet at Blå Club: a cult venue housed in the red brick building of a former diamond and gold ware- house on the bank of the Aker river. The interior sports a huge chandelier, bright graffiti on the walls and sculptures from re-bars promising an unconventional pastime. The club offers a broad selection of events from literary and bingo nights to young designers’ fairs and concept performances, including jazz, reggae, rock, hip hop, folk, and metal. In summer, you can just kick back in the cafe here, forget about the noise of the city and watch the river flow past.

Brenneriveien 9C, www.blaaoslo.no

79 NIGHTLIFE

The Villa Dancing Oslo

DANCING IN OSLO

Quality music, sound, and special effects are the three pillars on which lies the success of this Oslo establishment. Ranked highly among the world’s top 100 dance clubs by DJ Mag in 2009, the night- long dances attract both locals and tourists. In 2008 the Villa Dancing Oslo was listed among the world’s best clubs according to the read- ers of the Resident Advisor. Aside from the big names, the club regu- larly holds the Open Deck event for DJs who are just starting out.

Møllergata 23–25, www.thevilla.no

Mir

SCHOOL OF CREATIVITY

The Mir cafe-club offers 45 opportunities for creative people in var- 300 ious fields and genres: rehearsal halls, workshops, designer studios. NOK is the aver- Whether you like to immerse yourself in the Internet or prefer chess age admission price and backgammon, table football or comic strips, the mansion pop- for a club concert ularly nicknamed the Airport offers everything you need to have in Oslo a good time. Artists and painters, musicians and performers from Norway and abroad love this club for its unique charm and for the special events it has been hosting now for 20 years.

Toftes gate 69

80 NIGHTLIFE

Sør

MUSIC THE COLOUR OF THE SUN

This cafe in the heart of Oslo is open from dawn till dusk. A warm atmosphere and friendly barmen are awaiting you in this cosy venue. In the daytime, it is a great place to have lunch, with soups, sand- wiches, salads and vegetarian dishes all on offer. At night you can drop by to have a cocktail and enjoy some good music. Soft sofas, large standard lamps and book shelves create an atmosphere perfect for a conversation with friends or a romantic date. The salsa parties and jam sessions held here on weekends are especially popular in cold Scandinavia.

Torggata 11, www.cafesor.no Аquevitt is a Norwe- gian alcoholic bever- age from made from potatoes

81 NIGHTLIFE

Are you having a Friday beer with us?

Blir du med på fredagspils?

[ BLIR DU MED POFREDAGSPILS? ]

On a Friday night, central Oslo is a real melting pot. Crowds celebrate the long- awaited weekend in restaurants and cafes, pub patrons sip their alcoholic beverages while discussing the latest match as dance music booms from the miscellaneous clubs. Oslo refuses to quietly slumber until the sunrise. Whether you prefer a glass of good ale in front of a fireplace, or listening to an opera in an informal environment, you’re going to remember Friday nights in Oslo for a long, long time

82 Underwater

OPERA FOR DIVERS

What do an opera singer and a diver have in common? The Underwa- ter pub invites divers and classic music aficionados to its opera eve- nings every Tuesday and Thursday. Decorated with a ship’s helm and ropes, the small club is almost lost amidst the estates close to the city centre. Twice a week, it becomes home to arias performed by eminent soloists of Norway’s theatres and music academy students. Winter nights witness wood crackling in the fireplace, candles burn- ing on the tables, an amiable barman winking at the habitues, and a grateful audience submerged in the world of the classic music while enjoying cool, foamy beverages.

Dalsbergstien 4, www.underwaterpub.no

83 NIGHTLIFE

60 NOK is the average price of a bot- tle of beer in an Oslo bar

The Dubliner

FIREPLACE, CANDLES, JIG AND FOOTBALL

Three hundred years ago, Kvadraturen was a noisy neighbourhood at the centre of Christiania. Today it is filled with museums, and only really comes to life when the sound of folk songs on the fiddle and flute drift out from behind the doors of the Dubliner. The city’s best Irish pub features wooden benches, a real fireplace and a red- faced barman. It is the epicentre of Saturday festivities and has plenty of visitors on weekdays too. While some drop by to have a pint and order the grilled salmon, others come to play a game of billiards or watch the latest Premier League match.

Rådhusgata 28, www.dubliner.no

84 NIGHTLIFE

Lorry

VISITING A TRAVELLER

The famous Lorry pub and restaurant is over a hundred years old. Its cellars boast over a hundred brands of beer, and the menu is full of delicious Norwegian snacks. The interior includes artefacts and curiosities from around the world, including huge stuffed animals such as a zebra, a giraffe, a deer, a lion, a cheetah, a goose and a boar. There’s also a dinosaur egg, carved doors from Morocco and Chi- na, African, Venetian and French masks, transforming this pub into a two-storey maze of discovery. In the evening, a mixed crowd re- Toasts are not cus- cline at tables in the small beer garden and praise the merits of Nor- tomary in Norway, wegian brewing, perhaps moving to mark the win of their favourite but when having team right at the bar. a drink, people clink their glasses and Parkveien 12, www.lorry.no say Skål! The letter å sounds like “o”

Tilt

RETRO STYLE LEISURE TIME

Time really flies in this retro-style pub, with shuffleboard tourna- ments, tasting events, and antique pinball and arcade machines all on offer to take you back to decades past. In this place a lot of atten- tion is given to selecting beer: the stock of draught and bottled beer of traditional and unorthodox brands from Norway and other countries gets replenished weekly. Arched ceilings, dimmed lights, retro games, a huge selection of wines, an experienced DJ and a dance floor: what else could you need for a weekend party?

Torggata 16, www.tiltoslo.no

85 NIGHTLIFE

Skiing or partying tonight?

Skal vi stå på ski om kvelden eller feste?

[ SKAL VI STO PO SHI OM KVELDEN ELLER FESTE? ]

Oslo offers a huge variety of night time entertainment all year round. In the winter, sport-loving Norwegians enjoy skiing and snowboarding at well-lit facilities within the city boundaries. Summer nights invite to romance by the sea: swimming or fishing in the fjord in the moonlight, yacht parties, or a romantic picnic date on an island lost in the bay…

86 Tryvann

NIGHT SKIING ROMANCE

When snow covers the green hills of Oslo, they become a paradise for adrenalin junkies. The Tryvann winter park has 11 ski lifts and 18 tracks with an altitude difference of 381 metres: perfect for down- hill skiers or snowboarders to enjoy from early morning until late at night. It only takes 20 minutes to reach from the city centre by metro, and anyone can use the artificially-lit pistes late into the night, irregardless of their skill level. Whether you’re a novice ski- er or an experienced athlete, the multi-level tracks, cafes and snack bars will help you forget the stress of the working week and feel the drive and charm of nighttime skiing.

Tryvannsveien 64, www.oslovinterpark.no

87 NIGHTLIFE

Odd Anders Borgen, Strategic Leader, GIA Wholesale Bankingy SLEDDING IN OSLO Up for some fast-paced ac- tion? The Korketrekkeren — “The Corkscrew” in Norwe- gian — is a 2 km toboggan run with a 255 metre drop. Here you can rent a sled and sleigh down to Midtstuen station, a run which should take less than 10 minutes. Get back on the metro to go back up to the top again! You can enjoy sledding all day if you like, and the run is also lit up in the evening. It’s great fun and certainly an alternative way to experience Oslo!

PB 19, Slemdal, www.korken.no

Spikersuppa 2600 SKATING IN CENTRAL OSLO km of skiing tracks Many Norwegians love the great outdoors. After a day at the of- can be enjoyed fice, families pick up the kids from school and head for the Spiker- by winter sport en- suppa garden on Karl Johans gate, where a skating rink appears eve- thusiasts in Oslo ry winter. As the snow quietly falls in the glow of the street lamps, adults and rosy-cheeked children swirl on the ice in the very centre of Oslo. After you’ve gained confidence on the small rinks, you can skate on the frozen lakes of the Norwegian capital or head for the most popular rink at Frogner Park.

Spikersuppa

88 NIGHTLIFE

9 minutes is the length of the ferry jounrey Oslofjord across the fjord from noisy central Oslo NIGHT FISHING AND HUNTING FOR CRABS to the quite green island of Hovedøya The Oslofjord is the perfect place to make a night to remember. Go for a romantic walk along the embankment, listen to the squalls of restless gulls, or swim on a wild beach in the moonlight. There’s always the chance to sleep in a tent under the stars on a small island, to go fishing or to watch the water as it calms under the sunset’s gentle glow… On warm August nights as the school holidays near the end, locals traditionally take their families to hunt for small green crabs. You’ll need a scoop net and a torch if you want to join in yourself.

Rådhusbrygge 4

the sEA AT SUNSET

The sun is slowly sinking into the sea, ships are quietly swaying on the waves, and evening is approaching... Small boats and old three-mast schooners sail away from the Rådhusbrygge pier in central Oslo for a cruise to the Oslofjord. A jazz band plays, and ele- gantly dressed people sip wine while tapping out the rhythm. Pop hits from the 80s play onboard one boat, and the people on the deck can’t help dancing. The passengers on one small craft sit enthralled by the fleeting beauty of the sunset, while on the big sailing ship beyond, the sound of laughter and modern music hangs in the air. A night by the sea in Oslo truly is an unforgettable experience.

Rådhusbrygge 4 89 NIGHTLIFE

ARE WE GOING TO A CONCERT TONIGHT?

Skal vi gå på konsert i kveld?

[ SKAL VI GO PO CONCERT I KVEL? ]

When the harsh Scandinavian sun sets behind the horizon, the crowds head for the capital’s theatres and concert halls. In Nor- way, there’s a time for everything: the end of a week is ideal for theatre and movie premiers, while Christmas is the traditional time to enjoy a performance of the Nutcracker. Summer is the time for music festivals, featuring everything from rock to chamber music. Norwegians love and appreciate music and theatre in all its forms.

90 CONCERT HALLS AND STADIUMS

MUSIC KALEIDOSCOPE

Oslo has an array of treats in store for both classic and modern music enthusiasts. Check out Oslo Konserthus, where the Oslo Phil- harmonic Orchestra plays, or drop by the Oslo Spektrum for sell- out shows from the latest bands and performers. You can tune into the energy of modern music at the Rockefeller Music Hall or join the drive and buzz of 25 thousand fellow mucis fans as they gether to see international stars at the Telenor Arena stadium in Oslo’s suburbs.

91 NIGHTLIFE

MUSIC NIGHTS IN MUSEUMS

A RT + A RT

Plenty of museums in the capital put on music performances for fans of different genres. In Oslo, you can learn about the history of artistic masterpieces to the gentle sounds of a violin at the Gus- tav Vigeland Museum. Visitors can immerse themselves in the mys- tical world of organ music at Oslo Cathedral, or be amazed by the military wind band in the old Akershus Castle. For those who want to relax in the great outdoors, there’s the chance to relax on a lawn in front of the ruined Cistercian monastery and discover the sound of medieval instruments. 92 NIGHTLIFE

PARK CONCERTS

MUSIC UNDER THE STARS

In the summer, Oslo’s numerous parks host dozens of music festivals, offering shows in genres ranging from blues to experimental music. Fans of rock and pop music get together in Frogner Park for the famous Norwegian Wood festival, while lovers of indie, hip hop and electronic music count the days until the Øya festival, the summer’s major music event. Concerts, improvised music performances and stunning open air shows are an integral part of the summer holidays in Norway.

56 one-hundred-year- OSLO THEATRES old chestnut trees cast their shad- CAPITAL PLAY ow on Oslo’s longest alley, Bigdøy Al- Hundreds of art events are held in Oslo. Each and every theatre has lee. It stretches for its own personality and its own fans. Many locals love the Opera 6.7 km Theatre in its picturesque spot by the fjord. The design recieved a prestigious architecture prize, while the interior is decked with world class equipment. It’s little wonder that place is a mecca for art enthusiasts, and ballet and opera companies enjoy full houses of ea- ger audiences. The National Theater, the country’s main drama venue is located in the very centre of Oslo. A short distance from the university, the New Theatre of Oslo puts on popular plays, musicals and shows for kids and adults.

93 About Nordea HIGHLIGHTS OF 2015

Nordea is the leading financial services group in Northern Nordea listed among Global Systematically Important Banks again Europe. Nordea operates in eight domestic markets: Sweden, The Financial Stability Board (created by the G20 countries) and the Basel Norway, Finland, Denmark, Lithuania, Latvia, Estonia, and Rus- Committee on Banking Supervision have published a global list of 30 system- sia. Nordea is listed on the Stockholm, Helsinki and Copenha- atically important banks (G-SIBs). The list includes credit institutions from gen stock exchanges. the USA (8 banks), Europe (15 banks), China (4 banks) and Japan (3 banks). Nor- dea was first included into such list in 2012. Nordea is one of the 30 G-SIBs (Global Systemically Impor- tant Banks) as identified by the Financial Stability Board (FSB), Nordea named Bank of the Year in Western Europe and receives a global organization created by the G20 at the London Sum- The Banker’s award mit in April 2009. Nordea had the honour of winning the prestigious award as Bank of the Year in Western Europe. It is the second time that Nordea brings home the Nordea has 11 million customers and approximately first prize — last time was in 2012. Nordea also took the awards of best banks 700 branches. in Norway, Finland and Denmark. The award “Bank of the Year” is presented annually by the London-based magazine The Banker owned by the Financial As of 31 December 2015, Nordea’s total assets amounted Times and is the most prestigious banking award in the world with the long- to 646.9 billion euro. est running international banking title.

Best Bank in the Nordic region for the fourth time in a row Global Finance magazine has announced the winners of its annual “World’s Best Banks” awards. For the fourth time in a row, Nordea won in the Ratings assigned to Nordea by credit rating agencies category of Best Bank in the Nordic region. Nordea also won the country category Best Bank in Norway, Latvia and Estonia. Short Long Moody’s Investors Service P–1 Aa3 Euromoney awards Nordea for best Private Banking Standard & Poor’s A–1+ AA– Euromoney has awarded Nordea as the best provider of private banking ser- Fitch Ratings F1+ AA– vices in the Nordic region and the Baltics for the eighth year in a row. Nordea DBRS R–1 (mid) AA (low) Private Banking has also received the Euromoney country awards for best private banking services in Denmark and Latvia.

94 JSC NORDEA BANK

The Nordea Group has a 100 percent holding in JSC Nordea Bank.

The bank has been operating in the Russian financial market since 1994.

Nordea Bank has about 30 000 individual and 3000 corpo- rate customers including the largest Russian companies in the leading industries and international companies operating in Russia. The bank is focused on operational excellence, fast response to change, relationship banking and compliance Nordea Bank ranked among the with Nordea Group standards. top three safest banks in Russia

Nordea Bank is among the 30 largest Russian banks. As of 1 January 2016 the Bank’s regulatory capital (Basel II–III) was 42.32 billion rubles, with total assets of 407.68 billion rubles.

Nordea Bank achieved fantastic financial results in 2015. The bank’s net profit reached 4.64 billion rubles (up 33.7 percent year on year). The gains were possible by increasing operating income and enhanced cost efficiency and control. HIGHLIGHTS OF 2015

In 2016, we are focusing on promoting long-term relations with our customers and robust risk management to ensure these results continue. Nordea Bank ranked among top-3 safest banks in Russia for the third year in a row Nordea Bank has been placed second in the Forbes’ ranking of the safest banks in Russia. Banks were assessed on the basis of their ratings from major Ratings assigned to Nordea Bank by Fitch Ratings international agencies (Fitch, S&P and Moody’s), as well as their equity, assets, returns, capital ratio and credit risk exposure. Rating Issuer Default Rating (IDR) ВВВ-; Outlook Negative Nordea Bank’s NPL remains record-low Short term rating F3 Robust risk management and a conservative approach to lending has ensured Support rating 2 the Bank’s strong cost efficiency and unparalleled 0.66 percent NPL (Non-Per- Sovereign long term rating ААА (rus); Outlook Stable forming Loans).

Nordea Bank’s Risk Department awarded by the Association of Russian Banks (ARB) The Bank’s Risk Officers received letters of gratitude for their high contribution to the activities of the ARB Committee on Basel II Standards and Risk Management in 2015 at the annual meeting of the Committee members. The Committee issued a set of ICAAP recommendations (Internal Capital Adequa- cy Assessment Process document consolidating the position of the banking community). At the beginning of 2016 the recommendations were submitted to the Central Bank of Russia.

95 GUIDE TO OSLO

Created with the contribution of Custom Publishing, ООО Moscow Times, gopublishing.ru The book is based on the photographs of Getty Images, Legion-Media, Fotoimedia, Diomedia, the materials of press offices Henie Onstad Kunstsenter, Det Internasjonale Barnekunstmuseet, Norsk Folkemuseu / orten Brun, Tusenfryd, Norsk Teknisk Museum, Popsenteret, Museum of Cultural History, University of Osl / ina Wallin Hansen, Nasjonalmuseet for kunst, The Kon-Tiki Museum, Nasjonalgalleriet, Cafe Sø / alin Persson, Underwater Pu / an Leitke, Mathalle / inn Ståle Felberg, Maaem / andar Abdul-Jauwad, Fursetgruppen

www.nordea.ru

JSC Nordea Bank. General License ofthe Central Bankofthe Russian Federation No.3016

GUIDE TO OSLO