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Jamaica Is Birds Birds Birds! arethe two most practical places to FromMontego Bayto Bath.. startcovering the island.The route describedhere can be run in either direction. FROM MONTEGO BAY Beforeheading west out RouteA1 alongthe Caribbean, you might want todrive down to Anchovy in thehills outsideMontego Bay, along Route B8, to witness what has become a JAMAICA IS a take- Jamaicaninstitution. Rocklands is a your-breath-away, privatebird-feeding station owned solar-heated island andoperated by MissLisa Salmon, a with coast-to-coast womanin hereighties. She has stud- ied the birdlife of her ruinate wood- prolific vegetation landsfor decades.Every afternoon withnatural 3000-plusriches.Itspe-has from 3 to 5 p.m., wild Red-billed cies of flowering Streamertails,Jamaican Mangoes, Black-facedGrassquits, Saffron plants,575 speciesmoreof fernsthan '1 Finches,and Jamaican Woodpeckers and200 typesof or- come to be hand-fed while Caribbean chids,tropical mon- and Common Ground-Doves wan- taneand elfin forests, deraround underfoot. Tourists, pho- exotictropicalrivers, tographers,and birders sit on herve- mangrove swamps, randato watchor participate.Most peopleare pretty thrilled to have caves, cliffs, soft streamertailsperch on their fingers to warmwaterfalls, beaches,gorges,coral feedfrom tiny bottles of sugarwater. reefs,butterflies, fire- If youdecide to go to Rocklands, be flies, starfishes,sea sure to bird the woods below the urchins,parrot fish, bySllstliI Roney Drennan house.Jamaican Becards nest within sea turtles, marine easyhiking distance and in thelate mammals,amphibians, insects, rep- coolof themornings and late after- afternoonyou'll find Chestnut-bel- tiles,limpets, conches, spiny lobsters, noons, you'll have time to explore lied Cuckoos,Jamaican and White- sponges,and barnades. Everywhere a some of the inshore coral reefs in the eyedvireos, along with several North visitoris surrounded by beauty. heat of the afternoonwhen bird activ- Americanmigrants. Butmost of allJamaica has birds-- ity is veryslow. Be sure to takeyour Proceedout the north coastroad, moreendemic bird species than on snorkel and mask. RouteA1,and plan to stay for a couple anyother Caribbean island. Twenty- The ideal time to bird the island is of daysin the Falmouth/Duncans fivespecies and twenty-one subspe- during April. Summer resident birds area.This is a good base location from ciesare found here and nowhere else. havealready arrived. This is the peak which severalexcellent areascan be Of the250 plus species found on Ja- ofthe local breeding season and most birded. maica,more than 110 breed;the rest speciesare singing. Interesting terri- Go earlyone morning south from are migrants,rare winter visitors, or torialand nesting behavior abounds. FalmouthtoGood Hope. Birders gain vagrantsand indude a finevariety of Floweringtrees are in bloomtoward accessto GoodHope Plantation by GreaterAntillean species. theend of thismonth. Many winter callingahead and making prior ar- Theisland can be very well-birded migrants have molted into breeding rangements. Good Hope is an eigh- in sixto eightdays and, depending plumage and northward migration is teenth-centurysugar plantation and uponyour level of activityand perse- underway.Almost all winter migrants the old greathouse isboth a private verance,you should be ableto tally leavethe islandby the firstweek in residenceand luxury hotel. 100-150species induding 22-25 en- May. Birdinghere is easy, pleasant, and demicspecies and 18-21 endemic Flightsfrom the statesland in ei- rewardingwith theendemics (about subspecies.If you bird actively in the therMontego Bayor Kingston sothese 20)less shy than in most other places. 224- American Birds, Summer 1991 GoodHope Pla.tatio. is brimmi.g maicanElaenia, Blue Mountain Vireo, with wet limesto.e-lovi.g species, i.cludi.g the Jamaica.Tody, above. Stripe-headedTanager, and Jamaican Photographby Y.J. Rey-Millet. Crow.You may be lucky enough to Miss Usa Salmo., show. at left, seeOlive-throated Parakeets in flight. ru.s Rocklands,a private bird- feedi.g statio. locatedi. the hills Try tolearn all of the various White- outside Monego Bay.She has eyedVireo songs and while you're at st.died the birdlife of her rui.ate it lookfor oneof the manyJamaican woodlaeds for decades. Joh.L. Tvete., photographer. Todynests in thebanks along the road.If you'relucky you may spot a thrushes,Jamaican Woodpecker, Log- JamaicanBlackbird while walking. gerhcadKingbird, and Stripe-headed The road is wonderful to walk in Tanager. thecool of the morning. If youplan to drive, it is besttackled with a four- COCKPIT COUNTRY wheel drive vehicle. Take water: It Thewet, hilly, forested, limestone re- getsvery hot as the day wears on. Your gionin thenorthwestern part of the birdlist will doubtlesssoar if youcan islandis known as the "cockpit coun- affordto spend two mornings birding try." This areaoffers wonderful thelength of thisroad. birdingall along the roadsides travers- What a first-rate treat to stand at the ing it. FromDuncans, take Route MANDEVILLE topof the plantation drive and listen B10 south. From Clark's Town to Marshall'sPen, a 300-acrecatde farm to the loudlyjabbering, jamming, AlbertTown bird as much as possible. and marvelousbird sanctuary,is lo- gobblingJamaican Crows. Many Thisis a premier area in which to find cated about three miles outside of other wet limestone-lovingspecies endemicsthat are very difficult to spot Mandeville, at an elevationof 2000 canbe found on GoodHope includ- elsewhere.This iswhere to find Black- feet.It hasa delightfuldimate with ingthe Jamaican Tody, flycatchers, billed and Yellow-billedparrots, Ja- warmdays and cool nights. In the Volume 45, Number 2- 225 _I IC Caribbean Sea JAMAICA RICO Falmouth • • Duncans ontego •aye A• ß ------- ß - "•Anchovyoo,od / •Clark's • CockpitBlOl/;:e•;•wn A• •A3 A•' AnnottoBay • Country• , o h ff • * BuffBay ''--•A2 • •B5 • WakeHe.d•• • f •• • Marshall'sPen A• HardwarGap•'•P•e -•1 • Lo•er •x • • • Newcastle•'-:•Y=-•"*'r•io, • Hector's .... •-• Morass x • • • AI• [ • ...7• •' River Black •ver - • Mandevi!!eß A2 Sparashß Town • • • Kin' ston attest. "- MILES 0 5 10 15 20 25 Caribbean Sea 0 10 20 30 40 KILOMETERS woods,gardens, and pastures many of roadsand paths. The besttimes to JAMAICABASICS thecountry's specialty birds can be bird hereare between 6 and9 a.m. and seen and heard. This is an excellent 4 and6 p.m.If youwish to stay right Estimated 2.3 million placeto add Jamaican Lizard-Cuckoo, on thefarm, comfortable and fully CAPfiAt: Chestnut-belliedCuckoo, Jamaican furnished two- and three-bedroom Kingston, Owl, JamaicanPotoo, Jamaican apartments(with kitchens)are avail- populationgreater than 800,000 Mango,Jamaican Elaenia, Sad Fly- HIGHESTPOINT: ableat a costof about $20 per person BlueMountain Peak,7402 feet catcher,Jamaican Becard, White-eyed per night. This is an excellent place for SIZE: Thrush, JamaicanVireo, Arrow- a smallbirding group to stay.Birds At itslongest, 144 miles; headedWarbler, Orangequit, Jamai- will beright outside your door and at at its widest, 52 miles CURRENCY: canEuphonia, Stripe-headed Tana- nightyou will be lulled to sleep by a Jamaicadollar, currently about ger,Yellow-shouldered Grassquit, chorus of whistling frogs. Nighttime ßJ$8 = aboutUSS 1' GrasshopperSparrow, and Jamaican here provides one of the prime oppor- OFFICIALLANGUAGE: Orioleto yourlist. These are only a tunitiesto seesome of the island's45 English,though often patois fewof thebirds that occur here, but a different endemic fireflies. BANKHOURS: Mondayto Thursday9 to 2, morningor twobirding the property extendedhours on Friday canbe veryexciting. Many of the BLACK RIVER 'tiMEZONE island'sendemic butterflies, fireflies, The Black River lower morass is EasternStandard all yearround HIGHTOURIST SEASON: reptiles,amphibians, ferns, and trees Jamaica'slargest wetland, comprising Decemberto April can also be found here. more than 14,000 acres.It includes AREACODE Birders are welcome at Marshall's 809 mangroves,lagoons, herbaceous POSTALPROTOCOL: Pen(Talephone: 962-2260. Address: swamps and forests, and shallow estu- Write Jamaica,WEST INDIES Robert L. Sutton, Marshall'sPen, aries.One way to explorethe birdlife on all correspondence. P.O. Box 58, Mandeville,Jamaica) andecology ofthe island's longest river JAMALCANTOURIST BOARD: butonly through prior arrangement isto goto thetown of BlackRiver and 1-800-JAMAICA UHEXPECTEDEXTRAS: withthe Sutton family, proprietors. take a two-hourboat tour up the wa- DepartureTax:J$80, or USS12 RobertSutton is a leadingJamaican terway. Tours originate at theBlack Room Tax: $4 to $12 ornithologistand co-author of thein- RiverBridge. (Black River Safari Boat * Pricesquoted here rear to USS dispensableaid Birdsof Jamaica: A Toursis excellent.The guidesare PhotographicField Guide. A verysmall knowledgeableandknow what birders feeis chargedto walkthe property are after. For informationand reserva- 226- American Birds, Summer 1991 BIRDERBASICS HABITATS: Mangroveswamps, dry and wet limestone forests,montane forests, gardens,ruinate woods. SUNRISE: Winter, 6 to 7 a.m.; Summer, 5 to 6 a.m. Winter, 5 to 6 p.m.; Summer,6 to 7 p.m. BESTMONTHS FOB BIBDWATCHI#G: LateMarch through early May, peakis April. RAINYSEASONS: May andOctober. BESIBOOKS: Birdsof Jamaica: A Photographic Field Guide,by Audrey Downer and Robert Air Jamaica(800-523-5585), direct Sutton,with photographsby Yves- from the EastCoast only, also offers JacquesRey-Millet. C.ambridge Uni- trans-islandflights within Jamaica. versityPress, hardcover and paperback. American Airlines (800-433-7300),
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