arethe two most practical places to FromMontego Bayto Bath.. startcovering the island.The route describedhere can be run in either direction.

FROM Beforeheading west out RouteA1 alongthe , you might want todrive down to Anchovy in thehills outsideMontego Bay, along Route B8, to witness what has become a IS a take- Jamaicaninstitution. Rocklands is a your-breath-away, privatebird-feeding station owned solar-heated island andoperated by MissLisa Salmon, a with coast-to-coast womanin hereighties. She has stud- ied the birdlife of her ruinate wood- prolific vegetation landsfor decades.Every afternoon withnatural 3000-plusriches.Itspe-has from 3 to 5 p.m., wild Red-billed cies of flowering Streamertails,Jamaican Mangoes, Black-facedGrassquits, Saffron plants,575 speciesmoreof fernsthan '1 Finches,and Jamaican Woodpeckers and200 typesof or- come to be hand-fed while Caribbean chids,tropical mon- and Common Ground-Doves wan- taneand elfin forests, deraround underfoot. Tourists, pho- exotictropicalrivers, tographers,and birders sit on herve- swamps, randato watchor participate.Most peopleare pretty thrilled to have caves, cliffs, soft streamertailsperch on their fingers to warmwaterfalls, beaches,gorges,coral feedfrom tiny bottles of sugarwater. reefs,butterflies, fire- If youdecide to go to Rocklands, be flies, starfishes,sea sure to the woods below the urchins,parrot fish, bySllstliI Roney Drennan house.Jamaican Becards nest within sea turtles, marine easyhiking distance and in thelate mammals,amphibians, insects, rep- coolof themornings and late after- afternoonyou'll find Chestnut-bel- tiles,limpets, conches, spiny lobsters, noons, you'll have time to explore lied Cuckoos,Jamaican and White- sponges,and barnades. Everywhere a some of the inshore coral reefs in the eyedvireos, along with several North visitoris surrounded by beauty. heat of the afternoonwhen bird activ- Americanmigrants. Butmost of allJamaica has -- ity is veryslow. Be sure to takeyour Proceedout the north coastroad, moreendemic bird than on snorkel and mask. RouteA1,and plan to stay for a couple anyother Caribbean island. Twenty- The ideal time to bird the island is of daysin the Falmouth/Duncans fivespecies and twenty-one subspe- during April. Summer resident birds area.This is a good base location from ciesare found here and nowhere else. havealready arrived. This is the peak which severalexcellent areascan be Of the250 plus species found on Ja- ofthe local breeding season and most birded. maica,more than 110 breed;the rest speciesare singing. Interesting terri- Go earlyone morning south from are migrants,rare winter visitors, or torialand nesting behavior abounds. FalmouthtoGood Hope. Birders gain vagrantsand indude a finevariety of Floweringtrees are in bloomtoward accessto GoodHope Plantation by GreaterAntillean species. theend of thismonth. Many winter callingahead and making prior ar- Theisland can be very well-birded migrants have molted into breeding rangements. Good Hope is an eigh- in sixto eightdays and, depending and northward migration is teenth-centurysugar plantation and uponyour level of activityand perse- underway.Almost all winter migrants the old greathouse isboth a private verance,you should be able to tally leavethe islandby the firstweek in residenceand luxury hotel. 100-150species induding 22-25 en- May. Birdinghere is easy, pleasant, and demicspecies and 18-21 endemic Flightsfrom the statesland in ei- rewardingwith theendemics (about .If you bird actively in the therMontego Bayor Kingston sothese 20)less shy than in most other places. 224- American Birds, Summer 1991 GoodHope Pla.tatio. is brimmi.g maicanElaenia, Blue Mountain Vireo, with wet limesto.e-lovi.g species, i.cludi.g the Jamaica., above. Stripe-headedTanager, and Jamaican Photographby Y.J. Rey-Millet. Crow.You may be lucky enough to Miss Usa Salmo., show. at left, seeOlive-throated Parakeets in flight. ru.s Rocklands,a private bird- feedi.g statio. locatedi. the hills Try tolearn all of the various White- outside Monego Bay.She has eyedVireo songs and while you're at st.died the birdlife of her rui.ate it lookfor oneof the manyJamaican woodlaeds for decades. Joh.L. Tvete., photographer. Todynests in thebanks along the road.If you'relucky you may spot a thrushes,Jamaican Woodpecker, Log- JamaicanBlackbird while walking. gerhcadKingbird, and Stripe-headed The road is wonderful to walk in . thecool of the morning. If youplan to drive, it is besttackled with a four- COCKPIT COUNTRY wheel drive vehicle. Take water: It Thewet, hilly, forested, limestone re- getsvery hot as the day wears on. Your gionin thenorthwestern part of the birdlist will doubtlesssoar if youcan islandis known as the "cockpit coun- affordto spend two mornings birding try." This areaoffers wonderful thelength of thisroad. birdingall along the roadsides travers- What a first-rate treat to stand at the ing it. FromDuncans, take Route MANDEVILLE topof the plantation drive and listen B10 south. From Clark's Town to Marshall'sPen, a 300-acrecatde farm to the loudlyjabbering, jamming, AlbertTown bird as much as possible. and marvelousbird sanctuary,is lo- gobblingJamaican Crows. Many Thisis a premier area in which to find cated about three miles outside of other wet limestone-lovingspecies endemicsthat are very difficult to spot Mandeville, at an elevationof 2000 canbe found on GoodHope includ- elsewhere.This iswhere to find Black- feet.It hasa delightfuldimate with ingthe , flycatchers, billed and Yellow-billed parrots, Ja- warmdays and cool nights. In the Volume 45, Number 2- 225 _I IC

Caribbean Sea JAMAICA RICO Falmouth • • Duncans ontego •aye A• ß ------ß -

"•Anchovyoo,od / •Clark's • CockpitBlOl/;:e•;•wn A• •A3 A•' AnnottoBay • Country• , o h ff • * BuffBay ''--•A2 • •B5 • WakeHe.d•• • f •• • Marshall'sPen A• HardwarGap•'•P•e -•1 • Lo•er •x • • • Newcastle•'-:•Y=-•"*'r•io, • Hector's .... •-• Morass x • • • AI• [ • ...7• •' River Black •ver - • Mandevi!!eß A2 Sparashß Town • • • Kin' ston attest. "-

MILES 0 5 10 15 20 25

Caribbean Sea 0 10 20 30 40 KILOMETERS

woods,gardens, and pastures many of roadsand paths. The besttimes to JAMAICABASICS thecountry's specialty birds can be bird hereare between 6 and9 a.m. and seen and heard. This is an excellent 4 and6 p.m.If youwish to stay right Estimated 2.3 million placeto add Jamaican Lizard-Cuckoo, on thefarm, comfortable and fully CAPfiAt: Chestnut-belliedCuckoo, Jamaican furnished two- and three-bedroom Kingston, Owl, JamaicanPotoo, Jamaican apartments(with kitchens)are avail- populationgreater than 800,000 Mango,Jamaican Elaenia, Sad Fly- HIGHESTPOINT: ableat a costof about $20 per person BlueMountain Peak,7402 feet catcher,Jamaican Becard, White-eyed per night. This is an excellent place for SIZE: Thrush, JamaicanVireo, Arrow- a smallbirding group to stay.Birds At itslongest, 144 miles; headedWarbler, Orangequit, Jamai- will beright outside your door and at at its widest, 52 miles CURRENCY: canEuphonia, Stripe-headed Tana- nightyou will be lulled to sleep by a Jamaicadollar, currently about ger,Yellow-shouldered Grassquit, chorus of whistling frogs. Nighttime ßJ$8 = aboutUSS 1' GrasshopperSparrow, and Jamaican here provides one of the prime oppor- OFFICIALLANGUAGE: Orioleto yourlist. These are only a tunitiesto seesome of the island's45 English,though often patois fewof thebirds that occur here, but a different endemic fireflies. BANKHOURS: Mondayto Thursday9 to 2, morningor two birding the property extendedhours on Friday canbe veryexciting. Many of the BLACK RIVER 'tiMEZONE island'sendemic butterflies, fireflies, The Black River lower morass is EasternStandard all yearround HIGHTOURIST SEASON: reptiles,amphibians, ferns, and trees Jamaica'slargest wetland, comprising Decemberto April can also be found here. more than 14,000 acres.It includes AREACODE Birders are welcome at Marshall's 809 ,lagoons, herbaceous POSTALPROTOCOL: Pen(Talephone: 962-2260. Address: swamps and forests, and shallow estu- Write Jamaica,WEST INDIES Robert L. Sutton, Marshall'sPen, aries.One way to explorethe birdlife on all correspondence. P.O. Box 58, Mandeville,Jamaica) andecology ofthe island's longest river JAMALCANTOURIST BOARD: butonly through prior arrangement isto goto thetown of BlackRiver and 1-800-JAMAICA UHEXPECTEDEXTRAS: withthe Sutton family, proprietors. take a two-hourboat tour up the wa- DepartureTax:J$80, or USS12 RobertSutton is a leadingJamaican terway. Tours originate at theBlack Room Tax: $4 to $12 ornithologistand co-author of thein- RiverBridge. (Black River Safari Boat * Pricesquoted here rear to USS dispensableaid Birdsof Jamaica: A Toursis excellent.The guidesare PhotographicField Guide. A verysmall knowledgeableandknow what birders feeis chargedto walkthe property are after. For informationand reserva- 226- American Birds, Summer 1991 BIRDERBASICS

HABITATS: Mangroveswamps, dry and wet limestone forests,montane forests, gardens,ruinate woods. SUNRISE: Winter, 6 to 7 a.m.; Summer, 5 to 6 a.m.

Winter, 5 to 6 p.m.; Summer,6 to 7 p.m. BESTMONTHS FOB BIBDWATCHI#G: LateMarch through early May, peakis April. RAINYSEASONS: May andOctober. BESIBOOKS: Birdsof Jamaica: A Photographic Field Guide,by Audrey Downer and Robert (800-523-5585), direct Sutton,with photographsby Yves- from the EastCoast only, also offers JacquesRey-Millet. C.ambridge Uni- trans-islandflights within Jamaica. versityPress, hardcover and paperback. American Airlines (800-433-7300), BirdsoftheWestindies, byJames Bond; nonstopfrom New York and . HoughtonMifflin. Northwest Airlines (800-225-2525), nonstopfrom Tampa to MontegoBay; Also,remember to bringthe North noflights to Kingston.Pan Am (800- Americafield guide of your choice. 221-1111),nonstop from Miami. WEATHER GroupRates. Bird clubs or groupsof Northeast tradewinds and mountain eightor moremay be ableto arrange breezescool the coast,but a Kingston lower air faresand hotel rates. Call the summerday can swelter, with tempera- JamaicanTourist Board (1-800-JA- The Black-billedParrot, above, turesreaching more than 90øF. Over- MAICA) for information. is virtuallyimpossible to find all, betweenDecember and April, the anywhereexcept in Jamaica's climateis gentle, with average daytime HEALTHAND SAFELY "cockpitcountry," located in temperaturesof 70øFto 80øF,some- the northwesternpart of the You needno shotsto go to Jamaica. island. Y.J. Rey-Millet, timesdipping to the50s in thehighest Thewater is purified and quite safe to photographer.Top, a groupof mountains.During cool evenings and drink,and there are no poisonous snakes birders flock on the beach, journeystothe high ground you'll need to contendwith when you're out in the includingRobert and Ann a lightsweater or jacket--preferablyswamps and forests. Ticks, though they Sutton, and AudreyDowner. Photographby JohnL. Tveten. somethingwaterproof, as shortrain- carryno disease,are one minor irrita- stormsoccur frequently. tion. Theyoccur most frequently in rural areasnear livestock,and to avoid In Jamaicathe sunis fierce,though STEELBIRDS themyou should cover your legs com- sometimesdisguised by tradewinds or Thoughyou can get a flightto Jamaica pletely.The best method isto tuckyour hazyskies. Do weara goodsunscreen. everyday of theweek, many require a trousersinto rubber boots or intohigh Also,take a hatand plenty of drinking connection to Florida. The lowest sockscovered with insect repellent. To waterwhen walking in heatof theday. round-tripfares we foundwere $277 minimizecontact, stay along the roads. Be an alert smart traveler. In Ja- fromNew York, $425 from Los Ange- If thesemethods fail you, simply maica,as in mostforeign countries, it's les,$371 from , and about $205 removeany ticks with your fingers or a bestto goabout in groups,particularly fromMiami. Of coursetickets can go pairof tweezers.Or, aftera dayof atnight in or in remote rural areas. formuch more, depending on the type birding,shower immediately and don't Naturally,don't leave camera, optical ofseat, the day of the week, and the time wearthe samedothes again. Ticks equipmentor othervaluables exposed of theyear. On someairlines, flights to come out in the wash. In moist areas, in yourcar. Aside from these typical Kingstoncost slightly more than those mosquitoscan come on strongso you caveats,Jamaica offers pleasant com- to MontegoBay. mightconsider insect repellent for these fortablebirding. situations as well.

Volume 45, Number 2- 227 tions call South Coast Safaris Ltd. at Vervain Hummingbird,Jamaican AUDREY BirdsofJamaica 965-2513 or 965-2206.) In addition Tody,Jamaican Woodpecker, Greater DOWNER to seeingstately mangroves, tarpon, Antillean Elaenia, Greater Antillean American Crocodiles,water lilies and ROBERT Pewee,Rufous-tailed Flycatcher, SUTTON hyacinths,you'll neverhave better Rufous-throated Solitaire, White- viewsof NorthernJacanas, Least Bit- eyed and White-chinnedthrushes, ^udrey Downer terns,Least Grebes, Limpidns, and Jamaicanand BlueMountain vireos, (Jamaica'spre- West IndianWhistling-Ducks. Of Arrow-headed Warbler, Greater mierbirder), and Robert Sutton co-authored the Birds course,there are herons, egrets, coots, AntilleanBullfinch, and Jamaican andmoorhens galore. Listen especially Blackbird. of ]amaica--APhotographic Field Guide. This is one of the essential forMangrove Cuckoos. Take the Gordon Town Road, piecesof equipmentyou will want This is a fineway to discoverthe RouteB1, outof Kingstonheading to taketo the island.In thisbook, all unspoiledbeauty of thesouth coast. north toward Newcastle.Around Irish speciesthat occurin Jamaicaare Town,find a safeplace to pull off the mentioned,but only endemic spe- FROM KINGSTON twistingroad to bird alongit for cies and subspeciesare photo- HopeBotanical Gardens (927-1257, awhile. This areahas all of the birdlife graphed,and only endemic species HopeRoad, Kingston, Hours: 10 to typicalof middleelevations up to andsubspecies or species that are 6. Cost:about 50 cents),Mona Res- about2000 feet. As you get into the uniqueto the Caribbean,are de- ervoir and Mona Woods (Mona lush,mature, wet upland forests, get scribed in detail. You will therefore Roadin MonaHeights, west of the want to take one or more other out moreoften and bird for longer University of the West Indies, distancesalong the road. Very excit- guidesalong. The Downer/Sutton Kingston),and CaymanasDyke ingbirding can be foundalong the bookcontains photos of somespe- Ponds (off the SpanishTown to ciesthat havenot previouslybeen denselywooded paths and trailsof photographedin the wild. It gives KingstonHighway, west of Kingston), Hollywell Forest Reserve. Signs are guidelinesfor identificationand areall excellentplaces to bird for a obvious at the entrance. This is also a notes on race, habits, , and fewhours. They are each within easy reallygreat place to enjoya picnic rangefor eachspecies. We recom- reachof downtownKingston and to- breakfastorlunch. Cottages are avail- mendit. If you are interestedin getherrepresent a variety of ableat Hollywell through the Forestry travelingwith a smallgroup of and avifauna. Department.Move on to Newcastle, birders, Mrs. Downer and Mr. The greatgreen Blue Mountains anhistoric fort now used as a training Suttonare offering a fewseven- and offer breathtakingbeauty and an centerfor theJamaica Defense Force. eight-daytours next year. To get abundanceof island birds. Here find Stophere and bird the area of thefort furtherinformation regarding these the Ring-tailedPigeon, Common afterobtaining permission atthe main tours,call Sutton at (809) 962-2260. Ground-Dove,Crested Quail-Dove, office.Move on north, actively birding the area from Newcasde to Hardwar Gap. Here,all alongthe road,you shouldbe able to find plentyof endemics. Be sure to be alert for the JamaicanBlackbird from herepast HardwarGap. Of course,it will help enormouslyif you havedone your homeworkbefore leaving the states by listeningto recordingsof the voices of the endemics. This should

ensure success. At HardwarGap conduct an inten- sivesearch for the rare and declining JamaicanBlackbird. It is often seen anywherefrom the edges of the forest between Newcastle and the coffee plantationsbeyond Hardwar Gap, but Red-billedStreamertails nest in the hillsoutside Montego Bay. thisis a verylikely place to findit. At Rocklands,they come out to be hand-fedby tourists. Thisis not a flockingblackbird. It Photographby Y.J. Rey-Millet. is solitaryand quiet.It feedsin the 228-American Birds, Summer 1991 ENTERINGJAMAICA tureI.D., anoriginal certified copy of a Birth Certificate, NaturalizationCer- To enterJamaicayou need a ticket for tiffcate, or Alien Card. However, a onward destination (return ticket passportis absolutelythe preferable home)within six months and proof means,as it will saveyou time getting ofcitizenship, which includes a pass- inand out of the country, and through port,or, alongwith laminatedpic- customs.

ONTHE OPEN ROADS ON THE ROAD OFJAMAICA In Jamaica,driving is on theleft side. Remembertostay there! Though speed RENTAL CARS limitsare 30 mphin urbanareas and There is no way aroundit--to bird 50 mphon highways, some complain Jamaica,you need to travelby car. In thatJamaican drivers are a bit reckless thiscategory, there are essentially two --a subjectivematter, of course. Mountainous terrain and narrow roads Marshall'sPen, a cattle farm choices:Rent a car, or (preferably)hire a driver. can makedriving a real adventure. and bird sanctuarylocated three miles outside of Mandeville,is one of the Rentalsare somewhat costly. A bare- However,if yournature is cautious in bestplaces to spotJamaican Ork)les. boneseconomy car runs from $320 to theseregards, you mightbe a good Photographby Yd. Rey-Millet. $450per week. Upgrade to automatic candidatefor thefollowing. transmissionwith air conditioning, and moss and bromeliads at the base of you'llpay upwards of $550--not in- HIRED DRIVERS tree-fern fronds. One of the first hints duding10% tax or the $1000 held on By all means,do considerhiring a yourcredit card until you return the driver to take you aroundJamaica, that thisbird is presentmight be a vehide. particularlyif you are traveling with a delugeof debris being tossed from the Manyof themajor rental agencies group. bromeliadsas the bird forages.The haveoffices in Jamaica,but it is abso- Forabout $1400, JUTA Tourswill endemic Bromeliad Crab is one of its lutelyessential to booka carway in assigna knowledgeable driver to pick favored foods. advanceas they sell out quickly.Be youup at theairport and be at your sureto get a confirmation number and disposalfor an entire week, chauffeur- ingyou in a fully-equippedmini-bus ANNOTI'0 BAY AND BUFF BAY confirmthe price before you go. Avis (800-331-1212), Dollar (800-800- comfortablefor 10 peoplewith lug- Of course there are numerous other 4000), National (800-328-4567), Is- gage.All gas and insurance isinduded; finesites you could easily bird if you land (in Kingston,926-8012; in however,a tip is customary.Smaller happento be nearby. The area called MontegoBay, 952-5771). (Of note: groupscan be chauffeured bycar for StrawberryFields west of Annotto Your U.S. or Canadian driver's license $150per day. is valid for three months. Also, some For information or reservations,call Bayon the northeast shore holds up to companiesrent to onlythose between 952-0813, or fax 952-5355. 50 species.Cover the back roads and 25 and65 yearsof age.) farmponds along the roadway aswell asthe bay front. Look especially for thelocally common Yellow-breasted Crakeon pondedges, streams, and JAMALCANCUISINE Pepperpotsoup, an absolutely famous wet meadows.If in Buff Bay,go to Braceyourself for some wonderful spicy Jamaicasoup made with coconut milk, CrystalSprings Theme Park which food.The following isjust a sampling, pork,beef, and vegetables. indudesbotanical gardens, an orchid so you can studyup on the native Plantain, a fruit similar to bananas, forest,a spring-fedstream, and a bird specialtiesbefore you go. ripenedand fried. sanctuaryspread over its 156 acres. Ackee,the fleshy yellow part of a tree Fish tea, a conchsoup made with Mangoesand hummingbirds arenu- podboiled and cooked with fish and pumpkin. meroushere as are many other species. seasonings. Jerk,pork, beef, chick, or fish seasoned Bath, about 50 miles east of Bammy,a muffin-shapedfried roll with hot pepper,pimento, nutmeg, Kingston,is the siteof the Bath containingcassava, a starchy root veg- cinnamon, and onions, then barbe- etable of the West Indies. Botanic Gardens, which are more cuedslowly over green pimento wood. than200 years old. Look for the Black- Escoveitchfish, fresh fish marinated in Red Stripebeer, the favoritelocal billed Streamertail here in the flower- limejuice, salt, pepper, oil, onion, and brew. ingplants and along the road leading seasonings,served hot or cold. to the historic mineral baths. ß

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