EAT. LIVE. DRIVE.

The BMW i guide to sustainable dining, curated by Melissa Hemsley A JOURNEY OF SUSTAINABLE EATING CONTENTS

4 – 13 INTRODUCTION

THE UK’S MOST SUSTAINABLE RESTAURANTS IN 14 – 59 COLLABORATION WITH BMW i AND MELISSA HEMSLEY

60 – 81 MELISSA’S ROAD TRIP

82 – 95 IN CONVERSATION WITH THE EXPERTS

96 – 103 TIPS FROM THE EXPERTS

104 – 110 CREDITS One of my earliest childhood memories is of setting the table The world is changing, and changing fast. In just 20 years, for Sunday lunch. Not just any Sunday lunch – there were no the simple concept of going out for a meal or booking a roast potatoes, pork crackling or yorkshire puddings – but instead weekend away will look very different. But already the world is a huge pot of soup. Big Sunday Soup, to be exact. This was my full of innovators making important changes to help us live more mum, Evangelina’s, opportunity to clear out the fridge, to use sustainable lives – and this is very much the case in the kitchen. up the carrots, celery, yesterday’s roast chicken and anything From the UK’s first zero-waste restaurant in Brighton to new else she could find lurking in the kitchen cupboards to make sustainable food festivals launching in Scotland, we are already a delicious concoction of leftovers. surrounded by people inspiring us and teaching us something new – something that will help us all adjust our daily habits to As you can probably tell, my mum was not one to waste food. work towards a better future. Growing up, I was the kid devouring liver – not just because my mum said it was good for my brain, but because, as she liked to This guide is a celebration of the restaurants and people working remind us, if we didn’t eat the liver we were wasting the animal. creatively to minimise their impact on the planet, whether it’s This may have amused (or perhaps confused) me at the time, through small tweaks to their daily rituals or bigger long-term but it has played a big part in who I am today. commitments. I want to be able to share the beautiful stories of the farmers, foragers and chefs who are showing us how simple it is to Needless to say, as a chef and cookbook writer, food has become eat more sustainably, and encouraging us to make adjustments to a huge passion for me. I love sharing ‘use it up’ and ‘waste not our lives for lasting results. want not’ tips for home cooks, and I’m constantly raving about the incredible local suppliers I discover on a daily basis, whose Within these pages, delicious food is a given; flavour is never ingredients inspire me and my cooking. Whether it’s cooking with compromised. We are a nation brimming with talent and incredible quinoa grown in Essex or taking part in festivals and events that produce, and this is a hand-picked collection of just some of the are championing sustainability and educating us on food waste, restaurants and figures that are encouraging conversations and I’m always keen to play my part. championing sustainable eating. Whether you use this guide to help you decide where to go for your next meal out, or for handy tips on Creating this guide, which I’ve produced in collaboration with how you shop, cook and buy your food, I hope you will be inspired BMW i, has given me an incredible opportunity to meet and speak by the vast number of ways that we can all make a difference. with some amazing individuals from across a range of industries. The crafts may differ, but all of our goals remain the same – to drive innovation and ensure minimal impact to create a more sustainable place to live.

6 7 A FEW WORDS FROM BMW i

“At BMW i, we pride ourselves on our commitment to innovation to deliver sustainable mobility. This carefully crafted exploration into sustainable dining provides an opportunity to learn from other pioneers who are leading change with simple but ingenious ideas. But most of all, we hope these shared journeys will encourage a desire to create a more conscious and sustainable world.” COMMITTED TO SUSTAINABILITY

Sustainability is increasingly part of our everyday lives, and we are becoming more and more conscious of the environment we live in. Whether you’re a chef, food critic, diner or supplier, the chances are you will have your own idea of what it means to be sustainable, but the main thing we have in common is the desire to create a better and more responsible food system.

With that in mind, we’ve compiled a list of key factors that we believe help support a more sustainable way of consuming food and eating out. In turn, this has helped us create a list of outstanding restaurants where sustainability isn’t just a buzzword, but a way of life – it’s part SOURCING – Making the most of the produce on the of the team’s day-to-day schedule, and a source of great passion and restaurant’s doorstep, growing and rearing commitment. When selecting the restaurants in this guide we looked their own ingredients, or forging excellent for chefs and owners who were making conscious decisions on: relationships with local suppliers.

SEASONALITY – Working with what’s in season, not month-to- month but day-to-day.

COMMUNITY – Doing the most to support not just the staff but the local community, whether it’s working with a community farm or using tableware made by local artisans.

ENVIRONMENT – Being smart with food waste, from cooking with leftovers to composting and reusing, and of course, recycling.

RESOURCES – Using innovative ways to better preserve energy and water, and being sensitive to the use of natural resources in the day-to-day running of both the kitchen and the site as a whole.

10 11 A WORD FROM THE EXPERTS

“What and how we grow, rear, farm, cook and eat has a massive impact on the planet. It’s now more important than ever to highlight those restaurants serving up meals that not only taste delicious but are good for the planet, too. The Sustainable Restaurant Association is on a mission to make it easier to use the power of our appetites wisely. Hats off to BMW i for highlighting these restaurants and making responsible eating a pleasurable reality and a part of a better food future.”

Andrew Stephen, Chief Executive of the Sustainable Restaurant Association

“So many people are jumping on to the ethical and sustainable bandwagon. This guide is a helpful signpost of truth, highlighting and celebrating places that have genuine intentions.”

Harry Cragoe, Owner of The Gallivant

“We are so excited to be recognised in a new, innovative and refreshing food guide that celebrates restaurants that strive wto offer an experience that has sustainability at its core.” Imogen Davis, Co-founder of Native

12 13 From the UK’s first zero-waste restaurant in Brighton, to 19-course tasting menus in rural Wales, these are just a handful of the UK’s best, and most sustainably minded restaurants.

14 15 SOUTH WEST ARBOR THE ETHICUREAN BOURNEMOUTH WRINGTON, BRISTOL

The clue’s in the name: Arbor is a restaurant that celebrates Located in the former orangery of a Victorian walled garden, environmentally responsible dining and a passion for the countryside. The Ethicurean, near Bristol, is an organic restaurant with a menu Locally sourced ingredients are just one part of the sustainability ranging from sea buckthorn and honey cake made from the story here – the team use low-energy induction cookers in the restaurant’s leftover bread, to a five-course menu with ingredients kitchen, keep honey bees on the roof, and have kitted the restaurant plucked from the garden and surrounding land. It’s the combined out with FSC timber. The tasting menu is a winner, but you can’t effort of brothers Matthew and Iain Pennington, who have created go wrong with the afternoon tea or Sunday lunch either. a restaurant loved as much by locals as by visitors.

THE GREEN HOUSE HOTEL, 4 GROVE ROAD, BH1 3AX BARLEY WOOD WALLED GARDEN, BS40 5SA

WWW.ARBOR-RESTAURANT.CO.UK WWW.WALLEDGARDEN.CO.UK

MEDERIA ROAD MULTI STOREY CAR PARK, BH1 1QQ ASDA CLEVEDON, TWEED ROAD, BS21 6RR

18 19 SHELL BAY ROOT SANDBANKS, BOURNEMOUTH BRISTOL

Samphire picked from the restaurant’s doorstep, clams and cockles The brainchild of Michelin-starred chef Josh Eggleton and local scooped from neighbouring Poole harbour and mushrooms foraged farmer Luke Hasell, Bristol’s Root is a celebration of local, ethical from the New Forest – these are just some of the things to love about produce, served up with a field-to-fork ethos. The sharing-style menu Shell Bay in Dorset. Owner Jamie Farrar works to ensure that all the puts vegetables front and centre – think charred hispi cabbage with fish, shellfish and vegetables are sourced sustainably, leaving you to seaweed butter and shallots – while meat is served as a side. sit back and enjoy the sunset views, sipping on locally distilled drinks, including Black Cow vodka from nearby Bridport.

FERRY ROAD, SWANAGE, BH19 3BA GOAL FERRY STEPS, BS1 6WP

WWW.SHELLBAY.NET WWW.EATDRINKBRISTOLFASHION.CO.UK/ROOT

POOLE CIVIC CENTRE SURFACE CAR PARK, BH15 2RU QUEEN CHARLOTTE STREET NCP CAR PARK, BS1 4ES

20 21 POCO THE PIG NEAR BATH BRISTOL BATH

Poco founder Tom Hunt ensures that there’s no such thing as waste Nestled in Somerset’s Mendip Hills, The Pig Near Bath boasts in this kitchen. Fruit peels and pea skins are whipped up into jams, uncomplicated, simple British garden food that is inspired by the juices, infusions and purees, meaning virtually nothing ends up in the micro-seasons, the forest and the coast. The kitchen is overseen by compost bin. When the team at Poco conducted a thorough review of chef James Golding and head chef Jack Stallard, who are committed everything they purchase, they discovered only two that are tricky to to fresh, clean flavours. If an ingredient can’t be grown in the kitchen recycle – sponges and pens. A home has been found for the old pens garden or in the extensive vegetable and fruit beds, then it is sourced – and they are working on the sponges. locally, from within a 25-mile radius.

45 JAMAICA STREET, BS2 8JP HUNSTRETE HOUSE, PENSFORD, BS39 4NS

WWW. POCOTAPASBAR.COM WWW. THEPIGHOTEL.COM/NEAR-BATH

JAMES BARTON NCP CAR PARK, BS1 3LJ ODD DOWN PARK AND RIDE CAR PARK, BA2 8PA

22 23

SOUTH EAST THE WILD RABBIT PUB ANGELA’S OXFORDSHIRE MARGATE, KENT

You can’t fault the setting of the Wild Rabbit, which is located in Just a few steps from the Tracey Emin-supported Turner a wildflower meadow on the 40-year-old organic Daylesford Estate Contemporary gallery in Margate, Angela’s is a restaurant that in the Cotswolds. Much of the fruit, vegetables and meat are sourced puts people and our planet first. Serving ethically sourced MSC- from the organic farm, and dishes can range from river trout with certified seafood and seasonal vegetable dishes, its sustainable ethos pickled elderflower, apple and lime kefir to gnocchi with buttered includes working with the nearby Windmill Community Gardens turnip. Book to stay the night – cosy bedrooms come complete with to turn the restaurant’s food waste directly into compost. Pair your handmade mattresses. oysters and clams with a glass of natural wine from Sussex-based vineyard Tillingham.

CHURCH STREET, KINGHAM, OX7 6YA 21 THE PARADE, CT9 1EX

WWW.THEWILDRABBIT.CO.UK WWW.ANGELASOFMARGATE.COM

OLD MARKET WAY CAR PARK, GL56 0JY MULTI LANE MULTI STOREY CAR PARK, CT9 1LB

28 29 SILO RIVER COTTAGE KITCHEN BRIGHTON WINCHESTER

Whitewashed brick walls and furniture crafted from pulped wood Unbeatable value for money is just one of the things to love about waste combine to create the slick fuss-free setting of Silo in Brighton, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s River Cottage, where a two-course the UK’s first zero-waste restaurant. Hundreds of waste-avoiding Monday to Friday lunch menu will cost just £12.95. Quality is at the initiatives have been implemented by founder and owner Douglas forefront of all dishes, which range from mackerel pâté to parsnip McMaster, including a machine that generates 60kg of compost pudding, and there’s a great selection of vegan wine. A no single-use from food scraps every 24hrs. A short menu showcases ancient and coffee cup rule cuts down on waste – so bring your reusable cup, modern techniques – don’t miss the home-churned butter. or buy one there.

39 UPPER GARDNER STREET, BN1 4AN ABBEY MILL, THE BROADWAY, SO23 9GH

WWW.SILOBRIGHTON.COM WWW.RIVERCOTTAGE.NET

CHURCH STREET NCP CAR PARK, BN1 1US CHESIL STREET CAR PARK, SO23 8HX

30 31 THE GALLIVANT CAMBER

Light floods into the rustic and relaxed restaurant at The Gallivant, a gorgeous dog-friendly hotel located on the golden shores of Sussex. Fondly regarded by locals and mini-breakers, it’s a place to really make the most of local produce, and the team here call on local fishing boats, butchers and foragers to produce hearty and delicious plates for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

NEW LYDD ROAD, EAST SUSSEX, TN31 7RB

WWW.THEGALLIVANT.CO.UK

PELHAM PLACE CAR PARK, TN34 3AE

32 33 LONDON SOANE’S KITCHEN PORTLAND EALING, LONDON MARYLEBONE, LONDON

The latest venture from Alex Head, founder and chef at the catering Merlin Labron-Johnson, the executive chef of Michelin-starred Portland, is company Social Pantry, Soane’s Kitchen is a newly opened neighbourhood a huge source of inspiration: he turns food waste into pickles, ferments or restaurant in the leafy surrounds of West London. Dishes include burrata vinegars, sends non-edible waste to farmers for compost, and only buys cheese with zero-waste chimichurri and many of the vegetables on your meat and fish directly from farmers and fishermen. Fruit and vegetables plate having been grown in the restaurant’s garden. At the core of Head’s are often sourced from the celebrated OrganicLea community farm – who work is a commitment to making a meaningful impact through food: the deliver to the restaurant by bicycle – and the chefs’ commitment to nose-to- chef offers mentoring and employment opportunities to young offenders, tail cooking ensures all parts of the animal or fish are used. equipping them with the skills to thrive in the kitchen and beyond.

PITZHANGER MANOR, W5 5BE 113 GREAT PORTLAND STREET, W1W 6QQ

WWW.SOANESKITCHEN.CO.UK WWW.PORTLANDRESTAURANT.CO.UK

WAITROSE WEST EALING, W13 0NL CLIPSTONE STREET CAR PARK, W1W 6BB

36 37 ROVI FRANKLINS FITZROVIA, LONDON EAST DULWICH, LONDON

An exciting new venture from the Ottolenghi team, Rovi is a This long-standing restaurant has been a neighbourhood favourite for restaurant that puts a fresh spin on fermentation and cooking over fire. decades, and rightly so. A simple menu celebrates nose-to-tail eating; Working closely with farmers who are dedicated to growing the best it’s not unusual to find ox tongue, liver pâté and game as standard. possible produce while respecting the environment, the team produces Much of the meat used at Franklins is bred, reared and slaughtered on a menu of outstanding dishes, including sweet corn ribs and hot charred the same farm to minimise emissions from transportation, while a focus is tomatoes on cold Urfa chilli yoghurt. Cocktails are crafted with seasonal placed on small suppliers, zero air miles and minimal packaging. Use their spices and house shrubs, and you’ll find plenty of low-intervention wines ingredients of the month, listed on their website, as inspiration for your from small and innovative producers. own home cooking, and pop into their shop next door during your visit.

59 WELLS STREET, W1A 3AE 157 LORDSHIP LANE, SE22 8HX

WWW.OTTOLENGHI.CO.UK/ROVI WWW.FRANKLINSRESTAURANT.COM

BERNERS STREET CAR PARK, W1T 3NE SAINSBURY’S EAST DULWICH, SE22 8BB

38 39 WALES THE MARRAM GRASS YNYSHIR ANGLESEY, NORTH WALES POWYS, SOUTH WALES

Local produce and seasonality are at the forefront of everything Chef-owner Gareth Ward leads a small and committed team the team at The Marram Grass in Anglesey does. Before you even at Ynyshir, his Michelin-starred restaurant-with-rooms, located set foot in the colourful and relaxed restaurant you’ll see and smell close to the southern edge of Snowdonia National Park. For a real the ingredients that will soon be on your plate. Whether you’re treat book a seat at the kitchen table, which puts you right at the going for a light lunch – think wild Anglesey sea bass cooked in a heart of the action and is the place to try the surprise 19-course pork confit – or the surprise eight-course tasting menu, you’ll be tasting menu; a four-hour journey into innovative, ingredient-led sampling the very best produce this corner of Wales has to offer. cuisine. It’s a short stumble to your bedroom, six of which are located in the main house, which dates back to the 1750s.

WHITE LODGE, NEWBOROUGH, LL61 6RS EGLWYS FACH, MACHYNLLETH, SY20 8TA

WWW.THEMARRAMGRASS.COM WWW.YNYSHIR.CO.UK

ASDA BOGNOR, FARRAR ROAD, LL57 1LJ CLETWR CAR PARK, TYNYWERN, SY20 8PN

42 43 SCOTLAND CAPTAIN’S GALLEY WOODLANDS RESTAURANT SCRABSTER, SCOTLAND EAST AYRSHIRE, SCOTLAND

With a huge number of environmental awards under his belt, Where better to host Scottish Organic and Sustainable – Scotland’s first most recently as Sustainability Chef of the Year, Jim Cowie is one organic and sustainable food festival, which will take place in summer of the UK’s most celebrated figures in restaurant sustainability. 2019 – than Dumfries House, a magnificent estate that’s owned by the The Captain’s Galley, the seafood restaurant Cowie runs with his The Prince’s Foundation. Its Woodlands Restaurant is just one part of this wife, Mary, operates under five pillars: sustainability, traceability, sustainable business, which is focused on regenerating the local economy seasonality and sustainability. Here, the team will introduce you to of East Ayrshire – visit on a Sunday for a roast platter packed with North Scotland’s best local farms and fisheries, via a menu including vegetables grown in the estate’s gardens. Be sure to ask the team about Shetland mussels, crab risotto and more. the educational farm which is run for local schools.

THE HARBOUR, KW14 7UJ DUMFRIES HOUSE, CUMNOCK, KA18 2NJ

WWW.CAPTAINSGALLERY.CO.UK WWW.DUMFRIES-HOUSE.ORG.CO.UK

SCRABSTER HARBOUR TRUST, THURSO, KW14 7UJ CASTLE CAR PARK, NEW CUMNOCK, KA18 4AA

46 47 FORAGE & CHATTER EDINBURGH, SCOTLAND

Tucked away in Edinburgh’s West End is Forage & Chatter, a relaxed, cosy and colourful restaurant with a seasonal menu that utilises produce sourced within a 25-mile radius of the restaurant’s doors. Fennel, mint and more are handpicked from the Secret Herb Garden, a nursery located in the lush Pentland Hills outside of the city.

1A ALVA STREET, EDINBURGH, EH2 4PH

WWW.FORAGEANDCHATTER.COM

LOWER CAR PARK, ROBERTSON CLOSE, EH1 1LT

48 49 50 51 MIDLANDS/ NORTH SAT BAINS ROOTS NOTTINGHAM YORK

Chef Sat Bains and his wife Amanda are the team behind this stylish In 2013, Tommy Banks was catapulted to culinary fame when he and sustainable restaurant-with-rooms in Nottingham. Two recycled became the youngest chef to win a Michelin star at the age of 24. greenhouses and a garden produce 40% of the menu’s vegetables Today the cookbook author and Great British Menu star is at the and herbs, which feature on the seven- or ten-course tasting menus. helm of Roots, the second restaurant that he runs with his brother It was one of the first restaurants in the UK to install a closed-loop and parents. Many of the menu’s ingredients are grown on the Banks composter, and tablecloths are consciously avoided to reduce water family farm in Oldstead, and must-try dishes include the ox cheek waste from laundry. Book a seat at the Chef’s Table to see a two- with cauliflower and kale, and carrot and chicory root tiramisu. Michelin-star kitchen in action.

LENTON LANE, NG7 2SA 68 MARYGATE, YO30 7BH

WWW.RESTAURANTSATBAINS.COM WWW.ROOTSYORK.COM

QUEENS DRIVE PARK AND RIDE, NG2 1AP BOOTHAM ROW CAR PARK, YO30 7BP

54 55 BATTLESTEADS WILD SHROPSHIRE NORTHUMBERLAND SHROPSHIRE

This cosy pub and restaurant with rooms in the pretty village of Wark A celebration of local produce is at the core of Chef James Sherwin’s in Northumberland has sustainability at the forefront of everything ‘Shropshire terroir’ philosophy at his newly opened restaurant, Wild it does. It was the first hotel in the region to install a carbon-neutral Shropshire. The playful menu is at the mercy of micro-seasons, heating system, but also pays close attention to smaller scale meaning it changes from day to day depending on what’s available operations – like converting kilos of food waste into compost. from local farmers. In fact, 99% of ingredients on the menu are grown The food is equally impressive, with five and eight-course vegetarian or foraged by the team, or supplied by local artisans. tasting menus featuring locally sourced and home-grown vegetables, to help reduce the restaurant’s carbon footprint.

WARK, HEXHAM, NE48 3LS THE FARM HOUSE, TERNHILL, TF9 3PX

WWW.BATTLESTEADS.COM WWW.JAMESINASPACE.COM

HARESHAW LINN CAR PARK, BELLINGHAM, NE48 2BZ ASDA, POTTS WAY, SHREWSBURY, TF9 3PX

56 57 ROGAN & CO CUMBRIA

For a casual yet unforgettable dining experience in the Lake District, book into Simon Rogan’s Rogan & Co, which was awarded its first Michelin star in October 2018. Here, head chef Tom Barnes, previously at L’Enclume, works his magic with produce meticulously grown and harvested at Rogan’s farm in the Cartmel Valley. The three-course lunch menu, featuring dishes such as confit leg of Goosnargh chicken with turnip and tarragon, is excellent value.

DEVONSHIRE SQUARE, CARTMEL, LA11 6QD

WWW.ROGANANDCO.CO.UK

MOTO SERVICES, LANCASTER, LA6 1JF

58 59

MELISSA’S ROAD TRIP

“During our journey creating this guide, we discovered and ate at some of the best restaurants around the UK with outstanding sustainable credentials. It has been so hard to whittle them down to 30, but it goes to show how much more conscious we are as diners, suppliers and owners in the restaurant industry. Here are five of my most memorable visits.”

MELISSA HEMSLEY NATIVE SOUTHWARK, LONDON

“I am excited that as we grow as a restaurant we are able to build on our sustainable practices, from buying whole animals and improving our zero- waste policy, to developing a more self-sustainable approach in the city – we even have plans to grow our own produce right here in London.” IMOGEN DAVIS, CO-FOUNDER

32 SOUTHWARK STREET, SE1 1TU

WWW.EATNATIVE.CO.UK

LONDON BRIDGE NCP CAR PARK, SE1 3RU

64 65 Native has come a long way since its beginnings as a street food stall in Hackney back in 2012. It’s the work of Imogen Davis and chef Ivan Tisdall-Downes who, with the help of a hugely successful Kickstarter funding campaign, have recently moved Native to a new location in Southwark.

There are many reasons I adore this restaurant. The setting is simple and relaxed – think bare brick walls, large windows and plants dangling from the ceiling. I feel happy and comfortable here, partly thanks to Imogen, who oversees front-of-house with genuine warmth, energy and enthusiasm that makes every diner – from city workers to locals – feel at ease. She has an interesting background in game and has championed foraging for years, and also helps to run a family falconry business, along with the Twitter account of celebrity pigeon-scarer Rufus the Hawk. Together with Ivan, the duo – who are only in their 30s – have created one of London’s most exciting restaurants focusing on foraged foods, seasonality and lesser-used ingredients, including yarrow and wood pigeon.

A small menu is dictated by what’s in season – not just that month but that day. Kick off your visit with zero-waste snacks – tasty bites of food that have been created with ingredients traditionally discarded in a lot of kitchens – like moreish fried potato skins. Even the simplest of dishes shine, including the homemade focaccia, which is one of the best I’ve tried. The team put an incredible spin on everyday vegetables – carrots are transformed into the star dish, and smoked rose veal, which is both an ethical meat and absolutely delicious, often features on the menu. All of this is accompanied by a list of natural and biodynamic wines at sensible prices.

There’s a reason I keep going back to Native: I’m surprised, intrigued and inspired every time.

66 67 HECKFIELD PLACE HAMPSHIRE, SOUTH EAST

“Here it begins with the soil. Heckfield Place feels like you’re being hugged – a feeling that’s in your plate of food.” SKYE GYNGELL, CULINARY DIRECTOR

HECKFIELD PLACE, HAMPSHIRE, RG27 0LD

WWW.HECKFIELDPLACE.COM

MEREOAK PARK & RIDE, RG7 1PB

68 69 Heckfield Place has been one of Britain’s most hotly anticipated openings of 2018, and within minutes of your arrival you’ll see why. The country house hotel once lived its life as a Georgian stately home, and today it’s been lovingly restored into one of the UK’s most idyllic places to stay, and of course eat.

Grand staircases, 20th-century British artwork, and light-flooded bedrooms set the scene here. They are divine places to relax – but don’t linger too long because there’s plenty to do here. Start with a walk around the estate – all 400 acres of countryside, gardens and orchards. This will give you your first glimpse into Heckfield Place’s biodynamic principles. Under the guidance of culinary director Skye Gyngell of Spring, the team has given seed-to-plate a whole new meaning. Everything you consume here has been carefully planned – cauliflower leaves and beetroot leaves, typically scrapped in many kitchens, are a source of inspiration for the beautiful dishes in the hotel’s restaurants, Marle and Hearth.

Both are fantastic, but cosy Hearth, available exclusively for guests and located in the former stables, is my favourite. Here, a frequently changing array of dishes is created from the pick of the ingredients available in the garden that morning. The kefir butter lingers in my memory to this day. And you’re in the best of hands: Hearth’s sommelier, Louise, will talk you through the best wine pairings, with plenty of vegan choices, too.

Naturally, breakfast is equally brilliant – homemade sausages, foraged fig leaf and honeycomb yoghurt, and more. It’s the perfect start to the day before wild swimming in the lake, fly fishing on the river or trying an all-natural spa treatment that uses products from Wildsmith Skin.

Heckfield Place may be just an hour’s drive from London, but it feels like another world – one that’s exciting to be a part of, if only for a weekend.

70 71 COOMBESHEAD FARM CORNWALL, SOUTH WEST

“For us, a vision of self-reliance is something that really pushes us on.” LOTTIE MEW, MANAGER

A visit to Coombeshead Farm isn’t just a meal – it’s a chance to switch off and immerse yourself in what might just be the most relaxing and oh-so-hard-to-leave restaurant-with-rooms in the country. It’s refreshingly informal, with no corporate reception desk monitoring your arrival – instead it’s more likely that chef Tom Adams, his partner Lottie Mew or one of the team will wander over to your car, invite you inside and whip you up a rhubarb gin or Cornish cider in the kitchen.

LEWANNICK, LAUNCESTON, PL15 7QQ

WWW.COOMBESHEADFARM.CO.UK

LIFTON FARM SHOP, PL16 0BZ

72 73 Virtually every ingredient on your plate at Coombeshead Farm will have been grown or reared on site. Here, the term farm-to- fork feels like an understatement. Take a walk around the 66-acre estate – through the meadows, oak woodlands and patches of wild watercress and pineapple weed – and you’ll see why. Fields of vegetables, pigs and herbs tended to by gardeners and farmers will happily tell you what they’re up to. It’s all part of a collaboration between Tom Adams, formerly of London’s Pitt Cue Co, and Midlands-born chef April Bloomfield, formerly of New York restaurant The Spotted Pig, and the pair have worked to craft the most unforgettable menu and experience.

Dinner starts with snacks in the cosy living room, before, on my visit, duck broth with hazelnut miso and duck sausages with elderberry jam. Wine is made by Tom’s brother, Ben, in France, and the eclectic furniture and dressing – think squishy leather sofas, framed vintage maps and towering piles of old cookbooks – were handpicked by Tom’s mum at antiques markets and vintage shops.

Then there are the bedrooms. There are five to choose from, all scattered throughout the 18th-century farmhouse. Every guestroom is different, but the finest linen, antique furniture and a bottle of their rhubarb gin come as a standard. Drag yourself from your bed for the communal breakfast, smothering house- churned butter on the most delicious homemade sourdough, or fill your bowl with bircher muesli. Be sure to buy some momentos, including pig fat candles, delicately scented soaps and elderflower cordials, before you leave, and keep an eye on their news – the team often host their chef friends for special collaborations, including Jeremy Lee of Quo Vadis and Nathan Outlaw.

74 75 THE MASH INN HIGH WYCOMBE, BUCKINGHAMSHIRE

“Head chef Jon Parry and I are real Japanophiles. The Japanese don’t waste anything in their kitchens and preserve everything they can. This is more than a way of cooking, it is a mindset, which is reflected in our menu.” NICK MASH, OWNER

HORSESHOE ROAD, BENNETT END, HP14 4EB

WWW.THEMASHINN.COM

HANDY CROSS HUB CAR PARK, HP11 1TJ

76 77 It’s the little details that make The Mash Inn in the village of Radnage, Buckinghamshire so special. Take Mary, a seventy- something local who makes the ceramics used in the restaurant, or Tristen the whittler, who makes the restaurant’s serving spoons. The salad is a mishmash of leaves from the garden, the side of the road or donations from the neighbours. This community spirit is fundamental to the Mash Inn’s success – though they only opened it two years ago, chef Jon Parry, owner Nick Mash and his partner Hannah are all fondly regarded by those around them.

Items that would normally be considered food waste are celebrated in this kitchen, which is as creative as it is resourceful. Lobster shells leftover from the summer are used to make a bisque in the winter, mushrooms are picked from the side of the road and served to me on my plate just 30 minutes later, and my bog butter – yes, really – consists of butter wrapped in herbs and muslin that’s buried in a bog for two months. Wild garlic is foraged in such huge quantities that it is preserved with salt and used throughout the year, and every Tuesday the kitchen receives one lamb, which is braised in spices and used in its nose to tail entirety all week. Much of the cooking is done over a wood-fired grill, and the menu continues to change and evolve – meaning you’ll never know what you’ll get. That’s all part of the charm.

More fun can be had with the drinks – pineapple-spiced rum, for example, or pinecone vodka. There’s beer from nearby Marlow, and delicious English sparkling wine (no champagne here). Handily, your bed for the night can be just upstairs; a handful of cosy and stylish guestrooms are tucked into the corners of this former inn, which dates back to 1755.

Passion, thoughtfulness and creative use of food waste are just some of the reasons this restaurant is so exciting. Do what you can to experience it for yourself.

78 79 THE HIDDEN HUT CORNWALL, SOUTH WEST

“The Hidden Hut is a small outdoor cafe with a big difference. Perched on a cliff top overlooking a remote cove in Cornwall, the open-air kitchen serves up fresh local produce cooked in giant pans over natural fuels and fire.” SIMON STALLARD, FOUNDER

If location is everything then The Hidden Hut, overlooking Porthcurnick beach near St Mawes on the South Cornwall coast, is hard to beat. Set just off a National Trust-owned coastal path, it’s an unassuming beach hut that’s been transformed into one of the South West’s most fun, friendly and exciting places to eat.

PORTSCATHO, TRURO, TR2 5EW

WWW.HIDDENHUT.CO.UK

TRURO EAST PARK & RIDE, TR1 1RH

80 81 Your trip may start on the beach – a vast stretch of custard- coloured sand filled with families building sandcastles and brave swimmers taking a dip in the bracing sea. Turn behind you, squint a little, and you’ll make out The Hidden Hut – a small café with a big conscience and an incredible view.

A meal here is about as far from the typical restaurant experience as you can get. This is a café through-and-through: think long outdoor sharing tables (made from Simon’s friend’s trees), diners exposed to the elements and the smell of freshly ground coffee mingling with the salty sea air.

It’s the brainchild of chef Simon Stallard and his partner Jemma Glass, who are responsible not only for the most delicious home- cooked cuisine, but for the sustainability-focused ethos you’ll find everywhere. I loved the recyclable lunch boxes, filled with mackerel pâté or slow-roasted pork focaccia – tuck into them on the outdoor benches or down on the beach for a picnic on the sand, and you’ve got a simple formula for one of the best meals imaginable.

The ingredients are, of course, local. Beef brisket comes from the cows in a neighbouring field, fish and crabs from the bay. Pop along for smoked haddock and mussel chowder, soup of the day, just-baked cake, ice cream or a Cornish pasty (they’re made for them by the son of one of the area’s best-known traditional pasty makers). Or nab a ticket to one of their feast nights – sell out events with a big focus on communal dining and hefty portions of dishes like lobster and chips. I had the experience of a lifetime cooking fresh fish straight off the boat over a fire on the beach. It was made using the most incredible Cornish saffron, the key ingredient bringing this fresh and vibrant paella to life.

Bring your own plates, cutlery and a bottle and settle in for a meal you’ll never forget.

82 83 IN CONVERSATION WITH

From organic gardeners to chefs, we hear from the key figures helping Britain’s food industry operate more sustainably

84 85 Anna Greenland, Organic To safeguard the soil and and the Kitchen Gardener and wildlife that calls it home. That Horticultural Consultant could be a tiny backyard patch or a big farm – the idea is the same. I have created a haven of wildlife using just edible plants in a pretty small back garden in Oxford, so it What ingredients can help us eat can be done. more sustainably? I always aim to eat with the seasons Why do you think conscious dining to make things as sustainable as is so prevalent? possible. Autumn is my favourite time of year, when sweet, nutty I think people are more health winter squashes like delicata come conscious and want food that is as into season – they are incredible nutritious as possible. We are also roasted. During the Autumn, much more aware of the peril that hedgerow fruits like rosehips, our planet is in, as well as the huge elderberries and blackberries crisis in healthcare with diseases also come into their own, so I like obesity and diabetes. Making make syrups, vinegars and herbal small conscious choices about how preparations to harness their we eat and live can help the bigger medicinal benefits. Foraging your picture when it comes to our health own food is a wonderful way of and the health of the planet cutting down on food miles, but you must make sure you do this responsibly and not pillage the What does being more sustainable countryside. I also preserve and mean to you? ferment my own produce from the garden which cuts down on food It means being conscious about waste and ensures my harvest the choices we are making that extends into the colder months. affect the natural world around us. I love making sauerkraut, kimchi, We can’t single handedly change apple cider vinegar and infused the world but if we all do our bit vinegars with garden herbs. and as consumers start to demand certain standards, I’m optimistic this will have a ripple effect. Take imperfect, wonky veg and food What inspires you? waste. Supermarkets say they stock The natural world around me. ‘perfect’ vegetables because it There’s nothing better for me than is what the consumer wants, but getting up at the crack of dawn and it is up to us to take the lead and heading out into the garden. At any ultimately they will respond to time of year there is always such consumer wishes. beauty to be found. I’m inspired by Read more about Anna at the idea of conserving and doing the best I can by a piece of land annagreenland.co.uk. – being its caretaker and doing what I can to tend and nurture it.

86 87 Harry Cragoe, Owner of The Why do you think sustainability in Gallivant Hotel and Restaurant food is becoming so prevalent? There is a conscious re-awakening of part of the human spirit to adopt a more holistic approach to life – it’s influenced by social media, What inspires you and the menu traditional media and the evidence that something is happening to at The Gallivant? our climate. I believe this is partly I love fresh, seasonal ingredients motivated by fear, but also partly that have been caught, grown or because we all innately know what foraged by someone that shares our is good for us and what isn’t. It’s passion. Nothing excites me more just been suppressed for so long. than picking the first strawberries of summer or seeing just-caught fish come into the kitchen. There is nothing quite like eating freshly What does sustainability mean to you caught seafood, and it’s so sad that and your restaurant? the vast majority of the population Ultra-low food miles are key – never do. Supermarkets have most of our fresh ingredients are created a population that expects sourced within 10 to 15 miles of to eat strawberries in the winter us. We adopt a more holistic and or farmed salmon 365 days a year. responsible approach to looking I remember a time when we all after all our team members, looked forward to eating the first particularly in terms of their strawberries of the season – it was working conditions, the perks we hugely exciting. offer and the general culture of the business – we are the only hotel/ restaurant business offering free What does a typical day look like yoga to our team, among many running a sustainable restaurant? other things. We receive daily deliveries of fish, vegetables, fruit and meat – all of Find out more about The which are delivered by the butcher, Gallivant at gallivant.co.uk. farmer or directly from the boat. The forager might pop in with a couple of trays of something harvested from the hedgerow or foreshore. We cook everything from scratch, speak to the fishermen every day to see what they have caught and dream up specials determined by what has been delivered that day.

88 89 Helen Browning, CEO of the Soil Why do you think conscious dining Association and Organic Farmer is so prevalent? I feel that many people are increasingly interested in where their food comes from, and we see that all the time at the Royal Oak in Where did you start your career? Swindon, my pub with rooms. Most people who come to stay want to I’m from a long line of farmers. It’s look around the farm, especially what I have always wanted to do – for the pigs and agro-forestry, and and luckily, I had the opportunity so my partner, Tim Finney, who to make it happen. I started to farm is the driving force behind the organically because of my concerns ‘hospitality’ end of things, spends about the way we are squeezing out quite a chunk of his time as tour nature, and my abhorrence of the guide. There’s a strong desire way many of our farm animals are within many people to connect with kept. I wanted to explore a gentler nature a little more, and growing way of farming – one that gives your own – even in a window box – wildlife a chance to thrive, produces is a good place to start. healthier foods for us and which gives farm animals a stimulating, good life. Organic farming was the Helen is also the founder of the obvious choice. Helen Browning brand and the Royal Oak dining pub with rooms. She also runs Helen Browning’s Chop House, an organic restaurant What does a typical day look in Swindon. like for you? See helenbrowningsorganic.co.uk There are no typical days as such, for more information. but whatever I have in store, it starts with great coffee, an invigorating juice, 20 minutes of stretching and calm, then my homemade bread and cheese in the truck on the way to the station. I’m usually in the Soil Association’s Bristol-based head office for two days a week, when the day is packed with meetings. Then I’m often in London for another couple of days, often speaking or seeking to influence food and farming policy decisions as we prepare to leave the EU. My best days are when I have an excuse to work from home, when the day will start with a long walk around the farm. It’s the farm that inspires and motivates me still.

90 91 Stacey Sherwood-French, Why do you think sustainability What are your sustainability goals Co-founder of Jöro, Sheffield in food is becoming so prevalent? in the next five years? There is a conscious re-awakening Our restaurant Jöro holds of part of the human spirit to sustainability at the heart of our adopt a more holistic approach ethos. The name derives from to life influenced by social media, Old Norse – a North Germanic What’s the story behind Jöro? traditional media and the evidence language – and translates to Earth. that something is happening to Our future sustainability goals are Jöro is a restaurant that’s an our climate. I believe this is partly to continue exposing our guests expression of my husband Luke and motivated by fear, but also partly to our ethos, therefore exploring I. An expression of the way we like because we all innately know what and educating them. We also aim to eat and experience dining while is good for us and what isn’t. It’s to continue exploring forgotten or continually educating ourselves and just been suppressed for so long. unknown ingredients that originate others. The restaurant itself is made naturally. from recycled shipping containers, a concept brought to us by a local architect firm, Coda. We loved the What does a typical day look like Find out more at idea of re-using these huge metal running a sustainable restaurant? jororestaurant.co.uk containers, therefore creating something unique. Our Jöro menu Every day is different with is available as either small plates us continually looking at the where you can order as much or development of our menu. We little as you like, or using the same use a lot of different suppliers, so dishes you can experience our every morning we have everyone tasting menus. delivering produce, which is exciting for the team. Our wine list is also organic and biodynamic, and we have plenty of natural What is your favourite sustainable wines, too. We spend a lot of time dish or ingredient? researching and tasting to keep things new and exciting for our Our favourite sustainable dish is team and guests – we were the first a Jöro original – the Blackcurrant restaurant in Sheffield to implement Bush. It’s a dish we developed by a fully organic and natural wine list. using the roots of the blackcurrant plant. We also use the various We also don’t use gas to cook in ingredients from this dish through our restaurant and there are solar out the year by preserving them, panels on the roof of the Krynkl meaning that the berries are made building, too. We use only reusable into capers for other dishes. The oil containers or cups and we ask our we make from the leaves and roots suppliers not to send produce using is used in ice creams for flavour. packaging that can’t be either reused or recycled. We also love seaweed. It’s a natural product that is a great substitute for seasoning and can be used throughout the year.

92 93 Rebecca Huntley, Head Kitchen What does being more sustainable Gardener at The Pig near Bath mean to you? Everyday little choices like trying to reduce my household waste or consuming less meat, or buying second-hand clothing and furniture. What inspires you? And then I have longer-term goals, like reducing the use of my gas- So much! I’m particularly inspired guzzling (ever so reliable and slow by plants self-seeding in difficult to accelerate) car, which I often drive conditions, like the cracks of solo. Or further educating myself pavements, even though this plant about my choices as a consumer. is most likely to be categorised as a weed. It’s always exciting to see beneficial critters enjoying the garden, hedgehogs, frogs What do you think the future and newts in particular. We’re very of sustainable dining and living fortunate that our guests often stop looks like? us in our tracks to tell us how much they enjoy the garden. This is always Hopefully bigger and better, a treat to hear, and a wonderful boost greener and generally more to keep our efforts up especially beautiful and nutritious. when we might be suffering somewhat from the weather. The Pig group has five locations in the UK, including The Pig (Brockenhurst), The Pig near Bath, The Pig in the Wall Why do you think conscious dining in Southampton, The Pig in the New is so prevalent? Forest and The Pig on the Beach, Dorset. See thepighotel.com for I think as consumers we are becoming more information. more aware of the whole story and bigger picture. It is difficult to ignore the implications our actions are having on our one little planet, and there’s a huge trendy shift towards becoming more educated about this, thank goodness! I think we all want to do our bit where we can. At times it may seem overwhelming or exhausting to do so, but it’s always reassuring to know there are some companies who have already done some of the leg work (quite literally) and want to make better options readily available to us as consumers.

94 95 96 97 TIPS FROM THE EXPERTS

98 99 HOW TO EAT AND LIVE “Don’t throw away stale bread. We dehydrate any leftover bread and re-mill MORE SUSTAINABILY it into flour, this can then be baked again in a cake. If you don’t have a dehydrator Small changes can make a big at home, slice up the bread and leave difference. Here are just a few tips in an oven on a very low temperature from the people on the ground… overnight.” Iain & Matthew Pennington, Owners, The Ethicurean

“I’d like to think that in five years Shell Bay Restaurant will be 100% sustainable with regards to all the produce that comes through our door. Our electricity supply from Bulb means the power used across the restaurant and our adjacent boat yard is totally sustainable, and I continue to use fish that are caught and landed responsibly. The way in which a fish is caught can have a profound effect on its flesh and, aside from the ethical aspect of it, means that we are serving the tastiest, freshest seafood and shellfish possible.”

Jamie Farrar, Owner and Director Shell Bay

“Share knowledge with as many people and businesses as possible. It is important to realise that we do not have all the answers, and that a local community built around the shared “One of the most important things is to idea of sustainability will both widen our eat what’s in season – whether at home knowledge and help make larger strides or when dining out. It means you’re more towards finding solutions to environmental likely to eat locally sourced ingredients, problems. The old adage of ‘a problem and you’re almost certain to get better shared is a problem tasting produce.” halved’ has never been more apt.”

Zach Elliott-Cren, Head Chef Lee Coad, Co-Owner, Angela’s of Portland of Margate

100 101 “Be prepared not to opt for convenience. The variety of products available and the immediacy with which we can source them from all over the globe is remarkable. There is no doubt our lives have been made more convenient. But as the distance between where something is grown and where it is enjoyed expands, so too does the intervention, processing and packaging of the product – and something is lost. It is undeniably convenient, but at a cost. Going the extra mile is the right thing to do, but it is not always the easy thing to do.”

Lottie Mew, Co-Founder of Coombeshead Farm

“There are so many small changes you can make to be just a little more sustainable. When you buy your coffee in the morning and you don’t have a sustainable cup, don’t put the lid on it. Be conscious about where your food has come from by always reading the packet, and stay away from places that are associated with bad working practices.”

Neil Campbell, Head Chef at ROVI

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104 105 CREDITS

CURATOR Melissa Hemsley

COPYWRITER Hannah Summers

GUIDE PHOTOGRAPHER Theo Cohen

ROAD TRIP PHOTOGRAPHER Henry Relph

MAKE UP ARTIST Khandiz Joni Towill

DESIGNER Rosaline Thomas

SHOOT LOCATIONS: Hidden Hut, Cornwall The Pig Near Bath The Mash Inn Native

106 107 FULL PHOTOGRAPHY CREDITS: P6, 12, 23, 35, 48, 59, 65, 77, 94, 104, 107, 108, 109 – Theo Cohen P8, 79, 81, 108, 109 – Henry Relph P17, 99 - Matthew Pennington P28 - Xavier D Buendia P34 - Jade Nina Sarkhel P35 - Patricia Niven P36, 100 - David Loftus P40 - Celynnen Photography P56 - Nina Kathryn Claridge P70, 71, 73, 100 - Charlie McKay P98 – Simon Mills www.bmw.co.uk/i8roadster

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