Ladyboys Photographs from Bangkok by Douglas Vuncannon
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กะเทย Ladyboys photographs from Bangkok by Douglas Vuncannon 2017 — 2018 douglasvuncannon.com Introduction In Thailand, and throughout Southeast Asia, the word ladyboy is used to describe transgender women in English conversation. Many Thai transgender women have themselves adopted the term for communication with non-Thai speakers. In their own language, they may self-identify using one or more of a variety of terms, including sao braphet song (transgender woman), kathoey (an umbrella term literally meaning "second-type female"), gay or simply phuuying (woman). Thailand has a tradition of relative tolerance for kathoeys (the term most often used in academic writing). This is at least in part explained by the non-judgmental nature of Buddhism and the lack of a puritanical notion that sexuality is "sinful." As Thailand has modernized, experienced sexual revolutions, and joined a globalized economy, ladyboys have emerged as a symbol of the country's important tourism industry. Ladyboy cabaret shows are major tourist attractions in Bangkok, Pattaya and Phuket. Kathoeys also participate in Thailand’s sex industry, working in bars or brothels, or as freelance sex workers. While kathoeys have been more visible and accepted in Thai society than transgender people in other many other countries, they still face unique challenges. Among them are social, economic, health and legal concerns. A nascent movement of activists works to secure sexual diversity rights and equal legal treatment for Thailand's transgender communities. In 2017 and 2018, I photographed over one hundred ladyboys in Bangkok, the city that dominates Thailand's economy. Along with sex workers and cabaret performers, I invited many other kathoeys in less visible occupations to be photographed and share their stories. They were store clerks, cooks, retail sales associates, custodians, accountants, bank representatives, hair-dressers, make-up artists, massage therapists, after-school coaches, amateur Muay Thai boxers, marketers and students. This portfolio presents some of their photographs and stories. 1 Scene Setting Bangkok, the capital of Thailand that is sometimes called the "Big Mango," is the central nexus of Thai politics and commerce. The Penguin Dictionary of Human Geography describes a "primate city" as the largest city in a country or region that is disproportionately larger than any others in the urban hierarchy. Metropolitan Bangkok may be considered more primate than any city on Earth. With a population approaching 16 million, it dwarfs Thailand's second largest city, Nonthaburi (population 270,000), and accounts for more than 20 percent of the country's entire population. Bangkok is a sweltering tropical city that sprawls throughout the Chao Phraya River delta. Long an important hub of Southeast Asian commerce, and often a setting of geopolitical intrigue, Bangkok is a distinct capital city because Thailand, unlike neighboring counties, has never been colonized by a European power. In recent decades Bangkok has experienced accelerated modernization and integration with the global economy. Research for this project was conducted at many locations in several different Bangkok districts. Photographs were made at three sites, one in the vicinity of Sukhumvit Road in the central Khlong Toei District, and two others on the outlying edge of the Thon Buri District. Etymology and Usage of the Word "Ladyboy" in Thailand The origin of "ladyboy" in Thailand remains unclear. J. Neil C. Garcia, author of Philippine Gay Culture: The Last Thirty Years (1996), thinks it may have originated in the Philippines. In an email to me he wrote, "in the 1950s mainstream media saw articles about Manila’s 'biniboys', a creole portmanteau or nonce-word combining the Tagalog (binibini, or lady) and, well, boy. I believe there was actually a local journalist who translated biniboy to ladyboy." In another personal correspondence, anthropologist Peter A. Jackson wrote, "my sense is that the term 'ladyboy' started to be used in Thailand in the late 70s or early 80s, around the same time the term 'tomboy' began to be used to refer to butch lesbians." He added, "Thai now has quite a lot of playful borrowings from English where Thais appropriate English words and give them nuances they never have in English-speaking countries. A common example is the use of 'fan' (as in a sports fan) as a gender-neutral term to mean a romantic partner—boyfriend, girlfriend, husband, wife, etc." In Thailand "ladyboy" is used widely and without reservation in English conversation. It has a neutral connotation. Kathoeys do not generally find the word in itself to be objectionable, and they often self-identify as ladyboys. However, if used disparagingly, "ladyboy" can become a slur, as is evidenced by the anecdote recounted on page 41. 2 Acknowledgements Special recognition goes to Linda "Lin" Suksun for her sustained assistance over the course of this project. Lin made countless introductions, offered entry into insular settings, and assisted with Thai translations. Most graciously, she also shared her own stories. Numerous academic sources were used in the completion of this project. Particularly helpful in understanding historical contexts for contemporary kathoey communities was the work of anthropologist Peter A. Jackson. Professor Jackson also offered assistance in tracking down etymologies. Professor J. Neil C. Garcia at the College of Arts and Letters at University of the Philippines offered insight into how the word "ladyboy" may have originated in the Philippines. Kata Gellen provided editorial assistance. Thanks also go to Through This Lens and the Center for Documentary Studies at Duke University. 3 4 Mintaya "Minny" Potasri. 5 Soktawi "Drem" Potasri (17 years old) was initially photographed in 2017 with her older sister Minny (24 years old), who is also a kathoey. At that time Drem was unemployed and living with Minny and their parents. A year later she was working in retail sales. Drem left high school before completing a degree. 6 Soktawi "Drem" Potasri. 7 Vivien Nopairin. 20 years old; self-employed. 8 Jenny Saraporn. 31 years old; sales and "freelance." 9 In the area around Wutthakat Road, on the outlying border of the Thon Buri District, Thais live in a bustling urban scene removed from the glitzy commercialism of Bangkok's famous tourist areas. It is possible to spend a week here without seeing a fahrang (foreigner) or hearing any language other than Thai. Here the traffic snarls and the exhaust is thick, but the spaces underneath the elevated highways have been transformed into long, thin recreational areas that extend for many blocks. People use these spaces for all manner of exercise: skateboarding, roller-blading, power- walking and weight-training are commonly seen examples. Drivers and construction workers eat their meals and the homeless sleep or recline in cheerless boredom. After school lets out a group of ladyboys work with children to develop choir performances, dance routines and other patriotic displays involving gymnastics and the formation of human pyramids. They are strict directors who receive the respect of their students. In an adjacent neighborhood, I photographed kathoeys in an alley in front of a smooth, white wall that secures a middle-class family's home. This novel, open-air studio provided amusement to the elderly tailor and dressmaker who lackadaisically labored in a nearby shop. 10 Jirat "Nutty" Deechuay. 38 years old; occupation unknown. 11 "Ni" Sunny. 21 years old; studies Thai massage. 12 Wisanu "Gina" Duangket. 21 years old; "freelancer." 13 Thayakorn "Tos" Nira (21 years old) is employed as a custodian at a BTS Skytrain station. She participated in an outdoor photo shoot against the white wall on Soi Wutthakat 14 while wearing pajamas. 14 Thayakorn "Tos" Nira. 15 December 20, 2017 Older Ladyboys […] Finished session around 14:30. Later in the afternoon I met Linda and this group [of older ladyboys] at Sukumvit Soi 4. Lin wanted to take them to Patpong and have me split the taxi fare. I was packed into the back of a taxi with four, hard-worked, elderly ladyboys who hadn't showered in god knows how long. They were cackling like witches. They work as "jokers" at a cabaret. Lin, who serves as a younger, well-connected advocate, was trying to find a new job for one of oldest and "most pitiful" of the group. Linda says there aren't many old ladyboys in Bangkok because they "die early from [the] hormones" they take. —Excerpt from the Project Journal 16 Teerachi "Oa" Supasee. 58 years old; unemployed. 17 Juttarat "Salee" Srising. 42 years old; cabaret "joker." 18 Anek "JoJoe" Philphiangchan. 52 years old; cabaret "joker." 19 Thai transvestites are renowned for their beauty and femininity. You won't believe how stunning they actually are when made up and wrapped in sexy evening dresses and excessive stilettos! Broadway high kicks, mimed pop songs, choreographed dance backing and melodrama all add to the fun of this tongue-in-cheek concert. —Advertisement for the Mambo Cabaret Show 20 Dawika "Mai" Prasittichok. 43 years old; performer at Mambo Cabaret. 21 Rutchata "Mareya" Snuangmanee. 23 years old; "freelancer." 22 23 24 Sex for Sale Many ladyboys participate in Bangkok's highly visible tourist sex industry, which contributes significantly to the nation's gross domestic product. More kathoeys probably work in the much larger but more hidden domestic sex trade—the vast majority of prostitution in Thailand occurs between Thai clients and Thai sex workers. Kathoey sex-workers may find employment in a variety of venues, including karaoke bars, brothels, "beer bars" and go-go bars. Those who choose to work independently find clients by posting advertisements and/or soliciting on the streets. Freelance activities may involve more risk, but they can be more lucrative and offer an independent lifestyle. It is not uncommon for unmarried Thai women in different professions to do causal sex work in addition to their primary employment.