Dordogne-Périgord We Set the Scene, You Write the Story

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Dordogne-Périgord We set the scene, you write the story......

AMBASSADORS AND LOCAL PERSONALITIES Meeting with those who love the Périgord

HERITAGE Exceptional sites and monuments ACCOMMODATION Holiday rentals, THINGS bed and breakfast, to see and do hotels and camping

1 | DORDOGNE PERIGORD Edirial Eggletone © Steve ILOTOPIE 2016 - Cie Mimos Welcome to the Dordogne Périgord region

his 2019-2020 edition of the Holiday and berries, walnuts and the excellent wines produced by Leisure Magazine opens new pages on the his- our local Bergerac wine-growers. Join us in the fun and tory of the region and personal testimonials, festivities which express so well the hospitality of our inviting you to come and discover the Périgord region, share many unique experiences with your family for your next holidays. For this fifth edition, or friends, without moderation, as your fancy takes you. Twe have chosen, as our Ambassadors and Local Perso- Come and enjoy a wonderful holiday, whether it be en- nalities, men and women who perpetuate the spirit of ergetic, gourmet or cultural... the Périgord by the diversity and richness of their lives There is gold to be discovered in the Périgord… golden and their experiences. They will charm you with their adventures, golden emotions and the pure gold of our knowledge and love for this region, and invite you to gourmet cuisine. join them in adopting the “Périgord Attitude”! So, make the decision, choose your made-to-measure This magazine is also a long journey through time, as sightseeing and activities programme and… have a great seen in the presence of Man in the Dordogne Périgord holiday in the Périgord! for more than 400 000 years. From the prehistoric decorated caves, through the sites of the Gallo-Roman Magazine published by the Comité départemental du tourisme times, the Romanesque churches, the chateaux and the de la Dordogne : bastide towns of the Middle Ages, the museums and 25, rue Wilson, BP 40 032, 24002 Périgueux Cedex +33 5 53 35 50 24 theme parks, to the futuristic digital technologies used Publishing editor : Christophe Gravier in Lascaux IV International Centre for Cave Art, this A magazine made by Sud Ouest Group development Agency 23, quai des Queyries, 33094 Bordeaux Cedex magazine is a Golden Visitors Book, just waiting to be +33 5 35 31 31 31 read by you! Director : Marie-Luce Ribot You can be sure that your next holiday in France will Head of brand content department : Astrid Dupont-Fauville Production manager: Florence Girou be a great success if you come to the Périgord. Take the Editorial board : Sophie Dussaussois, Anaïs Rouyer time to discover, on foot, by bike, from a canoe or by Translation : Shayne Garde Girardin Subeditor : Inès Joseph car, our major tourist sites: the charming, picturesque Cover photo : Manu Allicot villages and towns certified “Plus beaux villages de Printing : Groupe IMPRIM ZA du Haut-Vigneau. France”, “Petites cités de caractère” and, of course, the Rue de la Source - 33170 Gradignan. Origine of the paper : printed on PEFC 70 % “Villes d’art et d’histoire”. This year we have opened four QUAL/09-438, paper made in Spain with 0,28 % new itineraries: the Mythical Routes of the Périgord! recycled fibres Come and enjoy our renowned truffles, foie gras, straw- Eutrophisation : Ptot 0,02 kg/tonne

| 1 PARIS

BORDEAUX

BY CAR BY PLANE BY TRAIN • Paris-Périgueux (500 km) International ﬂights • Paris-Périgueux : 4 h • Bordeaux-Périgueux A89 (120 km) to Bergerac airport • Bordeaux-Périgueux : 1 h 15 • Lyon-Périgueux A89 (400 km) www.bergerac.aeroport.fr • Toulouse-Périgueux : 3 h • Toulouse-Périgueux A20/A89 (280 km) • Lyon-Périgueux : 5 h

2 | COMITÉ DÉPARTEMENTAL DU TOURISME DE LA DORDOGNE 25, rue Wilson - BP 40032 24002 Périgueux Cedex ummary www.dordogne-perigord-tourisme.fr S E-mail : [email protected] Editorial ...... 1

Maps ...... 2 © Dan Courtice-Semitour © Dan © Aurélie Stapf, porteusesonge.com Stapf, © Aurélie

DRONNE VALLEY PÉRIGORD-LIMOUSIN REGIONAL 4 NATURE PARK AND AUVÉZÈRE VALLEY 12 © Dan Courtice-Semitour Périgord Courtice-Semitour © Dan © Guillaume Saramito - GS Productions © Guillaume PÉRIGUEUX AND LASCAUX AND THE VÉZÈRE THE ISLE VALLEY 20 VALLEY 30 © CD 24 - Denis Nidos - Denis © CD 24 © CD 24 - Denis Nidos - Denis © CD 24

THE DORDOGNE VALLEY 44 LAND OF SARLAT 56

Accommodation ...... 72 Holiday rentals, bed and breakfast, hotels and camping © CDT Dordogne © CDT

LAND OF BERGERAC 64 | 3 The Drne Valley in the Périgd Vert Escape to this garden of greenness in the heart of the Périgord Vert Château de Bourdeilles AMBASSADOR

IN THE NORTH OF THE PÉRIGORD CAVE PAINTINGS

© Versaveaud From the untouched wilderness of the Auvézère CATHERINE Gorges to the Boschaud Abbey, or the classiﬁed heritage village of Saint-Jean-de-Côle, the north of BIRCKEL- the Périgord is the setting for several jewels of heritage, VERSAVEAUD among which you will ﬁnd the Grotte de Villars

SITE MANAGER OF THE GROTTE DE VILLARS

A treasure of the Périgord Vert, the Villars Cave shelters sublime cave paintings dating back about 20 000 years. Discovered by the Périgueux Speleology Club in 1953, the cave has belonged to the same family for three generations now. Its centuries-old history is now engraved into the family’s DNA. © grotte de Villars

6 | THE DRONNE VALLEY IN THE PÉRIGORD VERT inter 1953 : Spe- of the site. He constructed a building and a leologists from small bar to welcome the tourists, created a Périgueux suspect light and sound show to enhance the cave the existence of paintings and joined the association Vi- an underground sites en Périgord which promoted tourism. network of galle- Located in the Périgord vert, in the north ries near the vil- of the county, the Villars Cave was much lage of Brantôme. Early one morning, the further away than the classic Dordogne B. © J.-M. Wgroup of explorers sees a smoking hole; a touristic sites. “But this distance actually sure sign of a cavity. But the speleologists pushed us to innovate. My father worked are far from imagining the size of the dis- very hard on the quality of our visitor wel- covery they will make. Although the ex- come and improved the marketing and in- ploration of these galleries, which spread formation given to visitors. He succeeded over 13 kilometres, will last several years, in making the cave one of the must-sees the real treasure will only be discovered on the tourist routes in the Périgord. To- some years later, in 1958. That year, in day, it is the only cave in the county where one of the caves, the team notices a crack you can see both prehistoric paintings, one in one of the cave walls. They begin to dig shows a very rare depiction of a man and there until the slimmest among them ma- a bison, and very beautiful, natural stalag- nages to slip into the tunnel. It opens onto mites and stalactites”, explains Catherine a splendid rotunda and the explorer sees, Brickel-Versaveaud. for the ﬁrst time since time immemorial, four painted horses that seem to be run- A TASTE FOR TRANSMISSION ning across the walls… After teaching for ﬁfteen years, Catherine ”I often think of the emotion that these men Brickel-Versaveaud took over the mana-

must have felt at that moment”, conﬁdes gement of the cave in 2009. Her greatest © grotte de Villars Catherine Brickel-Versaveaud, the owner and site manager. Born in 1968, this ex-Spanish teacher has “The Villars cave is the only cave in the always known the cave. “When I was small, it was my play-ground, and even though I Périgord where you can see both prehistoric left to become a teacher, I always kept a link with prehistory. I did my Master’s thesis on paintings, one showing a very rare depiction the Caves of Cantabria, and I always knew that I would come back here. This cave re- of a man and a bison, and very beautiful presents my roots… it is a very important legacy.” natural stalagmites and stalactites”

OPENING THE CAVE wish? To transmit to the younger genera- She also pays careful attention to passing TO THE PUBLIC tions, this (hi)story come to us from the on the ﬂame of Cro-Magnon to her own The discovery of the Villars cave changed depths of time. In order to tell the children children. Her son Thibault has just begun a the course of history for the Versaveaud and parents about the daily life of our an- degree in the History of Art and Archeolo- family. cestors, she has created a prehistoric garden, gy at the University of Toulouse. In the 1950s, Armand, the grandfather where she has rebuilt a Cro-Magnon sett- was a farmer. The cave was on his lands, lement, planted some of the ﬂora from that and thus, by French law, belonged to him. time and installed excellent imitations of a Very rapidly, in 1959, he decided to open woolly rhinoceros, a bison and a megaceros. the cave to the general public, to share his The park borders a 700 meters path, and GROTTE treasure. At the time, it was a risk to take be- was thought out to be both fun and edu- cause tourism was not yet very developed, cational, with quizzes and information DE VILLARS although local people were beginning to vi- boards, as well as games, like painting with sit the cave. And while Armand and his wife pigments or trying your hand at the cata- Le Cluzeau Raymonde continued to farm their lands, pult, used for hunting in the past. 24530 VILLARS they also began to welcome prehistorians Today the cave receives 55 000 visitors a +33 5 53 54 82 36 and experts, and they themselves began to year, from all over the world. Catherine, www.grotte-villars.com learn and become passionate about cave who is always running several projects at paintings. the same time, belongs to the association In the early 1990s, Hubert Versaveaud, Le Cœur du Périgord to try to further the Catherine’s father, took over the running advertising of the cave.

| 7 LOCAL PERSONALITIES

CATHERINE BRÉBANT THE ART Loïc Mazalrey OF HOSPITALITY ©

ccording to local le- has become her land of choice and adop- gend, the Hotel des tion. Originally from the north of France, Griffons was used by she worked as a nurse in Switzerland for the Lord of Bourdeilles fifteen years before falling in love with the as his “lieu de plaisir”. Dordogne and deciding to settle here for “I can’t confirm this good in 2017. with any conviction be- “A few years ago, my husband inherited a cause I really don’t know what is historical house from his grandparents in the delight- Atruth and what is local fantasy. But I do ful village of Brantôme. We decided to keep know that there are still secret trap-doors it for the holidays. And then, slowly, it be- that allow one to enter with total discre- came increasingly difficult for us to leave,” tion”, smiles Catherine Brébant, the new she explains. owner of the hotel. When she learned that the Hotel des Grif- fons was for sale, Catherine Brébant did not think twice. She bought it, and after some “We live in renovation work to update the décor, she re-opened the hotel in April 2018. an idyllic setting The small hotel has several cosy lounges and 10 bedrooms with views over the river, here. Wherever wooden beams and traditional fire-places. Beyond Bourdeilles, the tourists have a you look, there huge choice of cultural visits, ranging from the Grotte de Villars to the charming, is something surrounding villages, such as Nontron or Saint-Jean-de-Côle, or they can enjoy na- beautiful to see” ture trips. Visitors can discover the area either on foot following the sign-posted Built in the 16th century on the banks of the paths or by canoe on the Dronne River. Dronne River, this elegant building is today Catherine, the former nurse, is always de- a perfectly respectable and charming ho- lighted to help the visitors discover the tou- tel, very popular with tourists who appre- ristic gems of her little corner of paradise… ciate both the sense of hospitality and the it is a new way for her to take care of others. very dynamic atmosphere of this medieval village. “We live in an idyllic setting here. Where- ver you look, there is something beautiful to see: the river that flows past the hotel, the chateau further down, the chestnut HOSTELLERIE trees, the walking trails. There is even a he- LES GRIFFONS ron that comes down to look for food every morning, at breakfast time”, she says. 24310 Bourdeilles If Catherine Brébant speaks so highly of the +33 5 53 45 45 35

Photos Loïc Mazalrey Photos region, it is perhaps because the Périgord www.griffons.fr

8 | THE DRONNE VALLEY IN THE PÉRIGORD VERT TOURIST SITES

SAINT-AULAYE- TOUR OF THE PUYMANGOU ROMANESQUE CUPOLA An unusual bastide town over- CHURCHES looking the Dronne River, certified Discover the thirty cupola-topped “Petite cité de caractère”, with built churches of the area, with their th th heritage (12 century church, 15 defense systems. Certain churches century ramparts) and natural he- THE VENDOIRE have light and sound displays. ritage (Forest of the Double, banks Information leaflets available of the Dronne River). Situated within PEAT FIELDS in Tourist Offices. the Cognac A.O.C. area. A natural site where you can www.saint-aulaye.com observe, depending on the season, RIBÉRAC AND AROUND dragonflies, butterflies, amphibians, +33 5 53 90 03 10 migratory and native birds. Perma- www.riberac-tourisme.com nent exhibition, presentation video and themed activities. VENDOIRE © Frédéric Tessier © Frédéric +33 5 53 90 79 56 BRANTÔME- EN-PÉRIGORD GROTTE AND ABBEY OF BRANTÔME The Brantôme Abbey is mentioned in literature for the first time in the year 817 A.D. As early as during

th de Saint-Aulaye © Mairie the 9 century, even before the © CEN Aquitaine de Ribérac © OT construction of the buildings, the ﬁrst monks living there set up a par- tially troglodytic abbey in a series of caves behind the present abbey. Still today you can observe three exceptional bas reliefs, one dating from the 15th century and which de- picts ‘Triumph over death’, a second scene from the 17th century shows the cruciﬁxion and an older piece which is perhaps of pagan origin. The legend tells that Charlemagne in person brought the relics of Saint

Sicaire, a child martyr, to the Abbey, Courtice © Dan and that the Saint Sicaire Fountain, CHÂTEAU whose waters ﬂow directly from the DE BOURDEILLES rock-face, can miraculously cure

Live the experience of the Escape © S. Massiot sick children and render fertility to Game, with your enhanced reality Belle Dronne Périgord © OT sterile women. Thus, in the collec- helmet which will transport you back PARC tive imagination, the Grotte de Bran- to the castle’s past where you will CHÂTEAU DES DOUBLORIGÈNES tôme is still, and has always been, have to solve the riddles to escape. DE PUYGUILHEM A garden dedicated to quirky arts considered as a magical place. Discover its elegant Renais- and languid past-times. You can BOURDEILLES What is sure is that it is an excep- sance-style silhouette, its hull- admire the sculptures, discover tional site, to be discovered during +33 5 53 03 73 36 shaped timber roof-frame and its different plants, read a poem, watch www.chateau-bourdeilles.fr open or guided visits, alone or with furnished rooms. An exceptional, a performance… or do absolutely sculpted ﬁre-place shows the family. There is an activity book nothing! the 12 Labours of Hercules. that children can use to discover the SAINT-VINCENT- secrets of this marvellous cave. VILLARS JALMOUTIERS +33 5 53 05 80 63 +33 5 53 54 82 18 +33 6 33 81 26 15 www.chateau-puyguilhem.fr www.doublorigenes.com www.perigord-dronne-belle.fr

| 9 COMING EVENTS

SAINT-AULAYE FESTIVAL DES MUSIQUES ÉPICÉES EARLY AUGUST During the ﬁrst weekend of August every year, the medieval bastide town of Saint-Aulaye, certiﬁed “Petite cité de caractere”, vibrates to the rhythm of afro-cuban and latino music. Founded in 1996, this festival of “spicy” music takes place in the terraced gardens of the château, overlooking the Dronne Valley. Although it invites big names, such as Yuri Buenaventura, mentor of the festival, Sergent Garcia, Zebda or Ernesto Tito Puentes, the association, Swing in Eulalia, organiser of the festival, also promotes regional bands. So come as a family or with friends to “swing along”, discover local and foreign performers, or even try your hand at this music in one of the workshops and, of course, savour the local or exotic spicy specialities. Information : +33 5 53 90 63 74 www.musiques-epicees.com © Natasia Chainaud © Natasia

FARMERS’ SAINT-AULAYE BRANTÔME MARKETS LA LATIÈRE RIVER Whether it is in the evening for a festive meal with friends, or FAIRS JOUSTING during the day to top up your END OF APRIL AND JULY - AUGUST shopping with good-quality MID-SEPTEMBER On Fridays from 9pm on the produce, the Dordogne Atypical fairs where you will Dronne River, in front of the farmers and artisans welcome ﬁnd everything from cattle, Abbey. you to their street markets horses, hunting-dogs and +33 5 53 05 80 63 all year long, where they poultry to local produce, will help you to discover the horticulture and market RIBÉRAC

specialities of the Périgord. gardening to all sorts of Tessier - Frédéric Belle Dronne Périgord ©OT These farmers’ markets are objects, vehicles, a fun-fair FEST’IN easily identiﬁed by their logo and more. RIBÉRAC www.saint-aulaye.com MID-JULY This booming festival offers SAINT-AULAYE a well-balanced programme INTERNATIONAL of contemporary music (rock, rap, electro, etc.) where top PASTEL FAIR musicians share the stage JULY - AUGUST 2020 with emerging artists. Biennale offering an www.festin.org exhibition, workshops, and conform to the terms of conferences a charter that requires that and demonstrations. all produce presented in the www.pastelenperigord.net LEISURE ACTIVITIES markets originates directly and exclusively from local PÉRIGORD VERT LA JEMAYE SAINT-CRÉPIN- LA ROCHE farmers and breeders. Dates and further information ITINERANT LAKE AND DE-RICHEMONT BEAUCOURT- may be found on: BAROQUE RECREATIONAL THE MEULIÈRES ET-ARGENTINE www.marches FESTIVAL PARK WALK -producteurs.com JULY THE A walk though the very ancient Encounters around Baroque ARGENTINE history of the extraction of music. PLATEAU Discover nature on a sign- grinding-stones. The path takes +33 5 53 90 05 13 posted walk, ﬁtness trail, hikes you along a labyrinth of quarries Vast lime-stone plateau criss- www.itinerairebaroque.com or from the bird observatory. dotted with monsters carved crossed by hiking paths. You Water activities and supervised in stone. can even walk along a part of swimming in summer. Picnic www.rando.dordogne.fr an ancient Roman road then area and a lakeside café. along a former railway-line. +33 5 53 90 03 10 www.rando.dordogne.fr

10 | THE DRONNE VALLEY IN THE PÉRIGORD VERT SHORT STAYS AND EXCURSIONS

Enjoy the Périgord We have more than 2 500 offers of accommodation to help you have the very best holiday. www.dordogne-perigord-tourisme.fr Prehistory and château Relax in the Dronne Valley

VILLARS AND BOURDEILLES VAL DE DRONNE AROUND BRANTÔME

Visit to the Grotte de Villars. This cave Visit to the château de Puyguilhem. Built is one of the biggest underground in the 16th century in the Renaissance networks in the Périgord, with nearly style, similar to the chateaux in the Loire 13 kilometres of caves explored so far. Valley.

© Dan Courtice © Dan Lunch at Brantôme, the emerald Venice Lunch at Brantôme. of the Périgord! Visit to the Grotte de l’Abbaye in Bran- Visit to the chateau de Bourdeilles, one tôme. These caves, in the limestone cliff

of the four baronies in the Périgord. © www.petitesourisphoto.com behind the Abbey, are witness to the fact the early man lived there. Boat trip along the river.

1 day from 52€/person- 20 people minimum 1 day from 47€/person -20 people minimum Information/reservations: +33 5 53 35 71 22 Information/reservations: +33 5 53 35 71 22 [email protected] [email protected]

Le Moulin de l’Abbaye

« ocated in Brantôme, one of the most Lbeautiful villages of Perigord, the Abbey Mill is a 4-star hotel which welcomes you in a reﬁ ned atmosphere. The postcard scenery is breath-taking: the Abbey Mill is alongside the river and offers an impressive panoramic view of Brantôme as well as onto the Jardin des Moines garden, the river, the Pont Coudé bridge and the Abbey, founded in 769 by Charlemagne. An idyllic setting in a unique environment! Its 1-star restaurant in the Michelin Guide and its terrace as well as its two near-by bistros : LE MOULIN DE L’ABBAYE 1, route de Bourdeilles Fil du Temps and Fil de l’Eau, will enable you to taste typical and delightful dishes. » 24310 Brantôme-en-Périgord (Dordogne), France +33 (0)5 53 05 80 22 www.moulinabbaye.com

| 11 Périgd-Limsin Regial and Auvézère Valley Where savoir-faire and beautiful landscapes create inspiration Nare Park

Village of Saint-Jean-de-Côle AMBASSADOR © Loïc Mazalrey

FRANÇOIS DEVIGE

CABINET-MAKER, KNIFE- MAKER AND OWNER OF THE MOULIN DE LAPEYRE

In a setting that deﬁes time, the Moulin de Lapeyre tells visitors about the genius of Périgord craftsmen, both past and present. Here, the knife-maker François Devige has set up his manufacturing workshops, a bread oven and a museum of tools from a bygone era. Enjoy a guided visit THE KNIFE-MAKER WHO KEEPS into the world of arts and crafts. THE WHEEL OF MEMORY TURNING From glove- to knife-making, from wood-working to porcelain, the Périgord-Limousin Regional Park counts 260 arts and crafts workshops and in Nontron, since 1999, a dedicated experimental centre has been promoting the diversity of these master craftsmen © Moulin de Lapeyre © Moulin

14 | PÉRIGORD-LIMOUSIN REGIONAL NATURE PARK estling in a valley lined craftsmen could help me to solve them”, he with chestnut-trees, says. the Moulin de Lapeyre Today the domain, located near the seems to come straight Saint-Estephe Lake, stretches over 27 hec- out of a 19th-century tares of woods and streams, with three postcard, when men main buildings. It is a fairy-tale setting for still lived to the rhythm visitors, a genuine step back into the history

of grinding-stones and horses. It was here, of the Périgord and also a place of creation © Loïc Mazalrey Nin this idyllic setting, that the knife-maker, for the craftsmen who work there today. Francois Devige decided to set up his manufacturing workshops. He also wanted to A LIVING POST-CARD create a living and working space, entirely The sound of the blacksmiths’ hammers dedicated to the savoir-faire of olden-day hitting on the workbench, the smoke from craftsmen. the forge escaping from the high chimneys, “Tools have a soul. They tell us about those the water-wheel turning, fed by the waters who made them, but also about those who of the near-by stream. On the mill-stones used them, to till the earth or work on wood walnut kernels are crushed and different or material and so on. Here, in this little kinds of ﬂour are produced. Delicious corner in the north of the Dordogne, we leavened bread is cooked in the wood-bur-

have a long-standing tradition of arts and ning oven. de Lapeyre © Moulin crafts. And in today’s time of computers, it Upstairs you can walk through the ancient seems to me essential to give the young generations a taste for manual work”, explains this defender of ancient crafts. “In the north of the Dordogne, we have a First a cabinet-maker, Francois Devige became a craftsman of knives in the early long-standing tradition of arts and crafts. 2000s, mainly through a passion for metal. At the time he bought out, and thus saved, And in today’s time of computers, it the venerable knife-making factory of Non- tron, before re-selling it and launching his seems to me essential to give the young own designs. But although this fine artisan was now generations a taste for manual work” practicing his craft every day, his real desire, one forged in steel, was to transmit his tools that were used to till the earth and a savoir-faire that has been forged over knowledge to others and create true trans- work on wood. “There are between 3 000 the years. Today, François Devige and his parency in his production. So, to initiate and 4 000 objects here and certain date team are particularly proud to master the the public to his craft, he needed a teaching back to the 18th century. These tools are the art of Damas. “It is an art that goes back to space. In 2008, François Devige discovered living memory of people from here”, says the time of the Knights Templar, when the the Moulin de Lapeyre and he knew he had the craftsman. knights needed blades that were both hard found that space. Outside, a threshing-machine pulled by and supple. Learning to make them again a 1932 loco-mobile turns constantly. took us a long time”, he admits with a smile. A STEP INTO THE HISTORY François Devige also wanted to recreate Because, here in this iron-forge the famous OF THE PÉRIGORD the atmosphere of ancient farming and saying “It is while forging that you learn to “I realized that, here, all my different pas- harvesting. forge” takes on all its significance. sions could cohabit. I could set up the forge for the knife-making, as well as make bread IT IS WHILE FORGING THAT… in traditional style and walnut oil, and re- Five craftsmen work alongside François ceive the general public and the water from Devige all year long to make between the lake would feed the hydraulic mecha- 5 000 and 6 000 knives. As well as the nism. I made the decision to buy”, he says. iron-forges, the Moulin de Lapeyre also For the next eight years, François Devige runs a leather workshop to make sheathes rolled up his sleeves and got to work, eve- for the knives and a cabinet-making MOULIN ry weekend, every vacation, restoring the workshop. All sorts of amazing objects DE LAPEYRE old walls and driving all over the region come out of these workshops: nut-crackers, to find the necessary spare parts and the candle-sticks, chairs, tables, checkers and 24360 Saint-Estèphe savoir-faire. Because the old water mill no chess sets as well as the beautiful, wooden, +33 5 53 56 50 20 longer had its wheel which needed to be oval balls bought by the French Rugby Fe- Open in July and August rebuilt. “There were so many technical pro- deration. In summer, the craftsmen are de- from 14.00 to 19.00, blems, and only older, more experienced lighted to show their savoir-faire to visitors, every day except Mondays.

| 15 LOCAL PERSONALITIES

NICOLAS COUSINOU COMPOSER OF FLAVOURS © Loïc Mazalrey

eware all truffle-lovers! Thiviers is the capital of foie gras. My role Even if this mushroom, is to transmit the taste of these fine ingre- so emblematic in Périgord dients”, he says. cuisine, is written on the A fan of traditional recipes whose struc- menu of the L’Escapade ture he particularly appreciates, Nicolas des sens restaurant in Thi- Cousinou masterfully composes the most viers, you can only taste it unusual trimmings to accompany the sa- between early December and the end of vours of the main dish. In his restaurant, BFebruary, during the full mushroom sea- the foie gras is served with a turnip tatin son. That is because the owner of this fine and meat sauce, but it might also be served restaurant, the young chef, Nicolas Cousi- with cherries roasted in curry! And Nico- nou, is proud to offer only seasonal fruit las Cousinou prepares the Périgord Salad, and vegetables. It could not be any other another favourite in local cuisine, in his own way, served with a waffle. Photos l’Escapade des Sens l’Escapade Photos The restaurant L’Escapade des sens in Thi- “Each local viers is situated in the heart of the Limou- sin National Park, on the ground floor of farmer, each the Hotel de France et de Russie, owned by an English couple who fell completely in breeder knows love with the region. It is a small, intimate restaurant that can seat 34 guests. It is and defends his surrounded by a rose and lavender garden and welcomes both business clients and own products... pilgrims walking the Santiago de Compos- tela route. The menu changes every week, my job is to find as the chef loves variety. His latest idea? To put venison on the menu. But before he the right music could do that, he spent time in a hunting lodge to better understand how hunters to go with them!” work. “Each local farmer, each breeder knows and defends his own products... my way for this farmer’s son, who grew up in job is to find the right culinary music for the Dordogne and was nourished by the each product!” fresh food products of the family farm. Even though this young, 28-year-old chef learnt the art of fine cooking from other top chefs, Alain Ducasse in Monaco for example, or Philippe Redon in Limoges, L’ESCAPADE DES SENS he claims that the real inspiration for his cooking comes from the local producers. 51, rue du Général-Lamy “Here in the Dordogne, we have an in- 24800 Thiviers credible richness of food, cep and girolle +33 5 53 62 19 23 mushrooms, beef, duck-meat, asparagus to [email protected] name a few. This is the land of fine cuisine. www.lescapade-des-sens.com

16 | PÉRIGORD-LIMOUSIN REGIONAL NATURE PARK TOURIST SITES

EXCIDEUIL This small town has remarkable architecture, from the Medieval VAUX PAPER-MILLS chateau to the Renaissance chateau This Historical Monument is the living quarters to 17th and 18th cen- last factory in France to work a ful- tury private mansions. Sightseeing ly-functioning paper-making chain, tour of the town. Renowned foie a witness to the industrial era of the gras/fatted goose markets. Certiﬁed ATELIER DU TISSERAND last century. "Petite cité de caractère". Discover the vernacular history of textiles and the life of a village PAYZAC +33 5 53 52 29 79 th th www.excideuil.fr weaver in the late 19 and early 20 +33 5 53 62 50 06 centuries, as well as the history of www.ecomuseesdelauvezere.fr the famous “Charentaise” slipper. VARAIGNES +33 5 53 56 35 76 © D. Nidos © D.

SAINT-MESMIN THE GORGES OF THE AUVÉZÈRE VALLEY © Petite Souris Photographie © Petite © Denis Nidos © Denis They may be in the middle of the Périgord © Naturellement Périgord, but when you enter into the Gorges of the Auvézère Valley, you immediately feel that you are entering a humid, granite, moun- tainous landscape that is unique in the region. The agile mountain goat rules here, along with the wild trout and the turbulent waters of the Isle, Loue and Auvézère Rivers. The gorges are an absolute paradise for nature-lovers and offer a great variety of sporting activities such as kayak and canoeing, ﬁ- shing, mountain-biking, trail-biking © CC Jumilhac and of course walking trails. On CHÂTEAU DE JUMILHAC horse-back or on foot, you will dis- The château was built between cover an unusual fauna and ﬂora the 13th and 17th centuries and as you head along the different © PEMA

has gardens in themes of gold and © SMIA routes, all of which have been sign- alchemy. Classiﬁed as a National NONTRON KNIFE- posted with explanatory boards. Historical Monument with one star FORGES DE SAVIGNAC MAKING FACTORY You will cross foot-bridges that in the Michelin Green Guide 2018. On the banks of the Auvézère River, Knives entirely hand-made by are often vertiginous, taken there the iron-forge is dominated by a JUMILHAC-LE-GRAND craftsmen who follow every stage by helicopter because of the sheer Renaissance château. On this site, of the manufacturing process. cliff-faces! These new bridges al- +33 5 53 52 42 97 classiﬁed as a National Historical Each knife becomes a unique or +33 6 09 61 78 40 Monument, you will discover the low you to join other itineraries or www.chateaudejumilhac.com object. Different styles: traditional, to go via the gorges, impassable history of the iron and steel industry tableware and original designs. in the Périgord Vert. until just a few months ago, to visit NONTRON remarkable Périgord sites such as SAVIGNAC-LÉDRIER the Forges of Mesvrin or the Bou- +33 5 53 56 01 55 +33 5 53 62 50 06 www.coutellerie-nontronnaise.com vier blast furnace, and thus disco- www.ecomuseesdelauvezere.fr ver the built and natural heritage of the Périgord Vert. www.naturellementperigord.fr

| 17 COMING EVENTS

NONTRON KNIFE FESTIVAL FIRST WEEK OF AUGUST Nontron is a very tranquil village… except during the ﬁrst week of August, when 5000 people invade the streets of this little Périgord town. Why? Because Nontron is famous for its knife-making industry, one of the oldest in France, and for its Knife Festival every year which attracts professionals, enthusiasts and the curious. On the stands you will ﬁnd pocket knives, kitchen and hunting knives, collector and design knives, all forged in France, in Europe, even in Japan. For children, there are activities on the prehistoric knife and cave paintings, a workshop in iron-forging and even an initiation to scrimshaw, an ornamental Inuit engraving technique. On the Satur- day night the atmosphere gets decidedly hotter with the spectacular melting of iron in the bloomery furnace. Information: www.nontron.fr © espace Eric Plazen © espace Eric

FARMERS’ LA COQUILLE – BUSSIÈRE-BADIL MARKETS MAISON DU PARC POTTER’S FAIR © OTPL Whether it is in the evening for a festive meal with friends, or PARK-TIME FOR MAY during the day to top up your THE FAMILY With 35 to 40 potters from all over France and Europe. shopping with good-quality SCHOOL HOLIDAYS produce, the Dordogne +33 5 53 60 74 75 farmers and artisans welcome On Tuesday mornings, discover www.foiredespotiers.com you to their street markets the art of fishing (except all year long, where they in October). On Thursday SAINT-PANTALY- will help you to discover the mornings, there are nature specialities of the Périgord. workshops (vegetal painting, D’EXCIDEUIL These farmers’ markets are land art, giant Cluedo, BREAD- easily identified by their logo discovering birds and small animals, tree-climbing and MAKING more). In the afternoons, FESTIVAL nature activities and sports, MID-JULY THIVIERS and learning about the different occupations and crafts in La A weekend of conviviality, PETITS CHEFS gastronomy and open-air Coquille and the Regional JULY - AUGUST Nature Park. dining. Make your own gourmet dishes with foie gras and take them +33 5 53 52 29 79 +33 5 53 55 36 00 home with you, along with lots of fun recipes to try out at home. www.pnr-perigord-limousin.fr ÉTOUARS Reservations necessary : +33 5 53 55 12 50 and conform to the terms of SAINT-JEAN- FORGES SAINT-SAUD- EXCIDEUIL a charter that requires that DE-CÔLE AND METAL all produce presented in the LACOUSSIÈRE HOOP FESTIVAL WORKING markets originates directly FLORALIES FESTIVAL OF CEP AUGUST and exclusively from local MAY FESTIVAL Multi-faceted, off-beat and farmers and breeders. MUSHROOMS Numerous exhibits (flowers, END OF JULY - family festival which mixes Dates and further information plants, garden decorations, BEGINNING OF AUGUST AND SUCKLING electro- music, dance, theatre may be found on: shrubs, gardening tools, etc.) Conferences, exhibitions, CALF and digital arts. www.marches guided visits, blacksmithing OCTOBER www.hoopfestival.fr -producteurs.com VARAIGNES demonstrations, children’s +33 5 53 56 25 50 workshops, artisanal VARAIGNES WEAVERS’ metal-working. GÉNIS TURKEY FAIR MARKET +33 5 53 56 23 66 RAND’AUVÉZÈRE NOVEMBER MAY END OF OCTOBER Stands, turkey parade, Demonstrations, textile Explore the Auvézère gorges turkey-meat meals, activities and catering. on foot, on horseback or on a entertainment, brass bands and +33 5 53 56 35 76 mountain-bike. folklore groups. +33 5 53 52 29 79 +33 5 53 56 35 76

18 | PÉRIGORD-LIMOUSIN REGIONAL NATURE PARK LEISURE ACTIVITIES

PÉRIGORD- SAINT-ESTÈPHE LIMOUSIN LAKE AND WANDERING RECREATIONAL THROUGH PARK THE REGIONAL NATURE RESERVE Two new routes in 2019 to discover, on foot or on a bicycle and at your own pace, the Périgord-Limousin Regional Nature Reserve, which straddles the Dordogne and the Haute-Vienne counties. The Grand Boucle du parc is a sign-posted

itinerary, almost 200 Nidos Denis © CD 24 kilometres long, which will take three to four days to do This protected natural area on a mountain-bike or seven is a privileged space for the to ten days if you are walking. conservation, management You could start out, for and discovery of natural example from the train station resources. The lake is a in La Coquille. recreational park, with fishing- A way to experience total peers that have good disability immersion in a protected, access. Supervised swimming natural environment. in summer. Picnic area and www.pnr-perigord-limousin.fr playground for children. +33 5 53 56 73 66 THE FLOW VELO ANGOISSE The Flow Vélo, a very chic ROUFFIAC New ! and bucolic cycle-path is LAKE AND 290 kilometres long and RECREATIONAL links the town of Thiviers in the Dordogne to Ile d’Aix in PARK Charente-Maritime. From In the heart of a 60-hectare the hills of the Périgord Vert woodland, on the edge of the to the Atlantic coast, these Rouffiac lake, this park offers changing landscapes are like numerous sports activities a geography book opening up such as cable-skiing, Optimist before you. sailing, wind-surfing, rock- www.laflowvelo.com climbing, paint-ball, archery, mountain-biking, zip-lines and tree-top adventures. +33 5 53 52 68 79 www.rouffiac-loisirs.com © Agence Les Conteurs

On foot or by all-terrain bike, Vaque veire ! Free guide is available © CD 24 Denis Nidos Denis © CD 24

| 19 Périgueux and the Isle Valley Follow the water to the heart of emotions, savours and History Cathedral Saint-Front in Périgueux AMBASSADOR

A JOURNEY THROUGH TIME... ALONG THE ISLE RIVER © Loïc Mazalrey In the past the river used to turn the wheels MICHEL of the ancient water-mills thus contributing CADET to the economic rise of the region over the centuries. Today, the Isle River, still the emblem of this valley of a thousand and one faces, DOCTOR AND PRESIDENT OF THE offers its tranquil waters and bucolic river- PÉRIGUEUX CANOE CLUB scapes to both visitors and kayakers...

As an enthusiast of both sports and the Isle Valley, Michel Cadet loves to mix his passions. So, to share the heritage treasures in and around Périgueux, he set up a series of river trips with the Périgueux Canoe Club. The idea was to discover the secrets of the town while keeping ﬁt! So, on board for a journey through time... © Jonathan Barbot

22 | PÉRIGUEUX AND THE ISLE VALLEY n the 19th century, 3000 Museum, named after the protecting "gabares" circulated on goddess of the city, and thus discover the the Isle River and almost Gallo-Roman history of the town. From 700 of them used the Pé- there they journey through the Middle rigueux river port every Ages by way of the Mataguerre Tower, year. On the downstream last remaining vestige of the 13th century trip they transported rampart walls, which once had 28 towers wood, tiles and limestone from the and 12 gates. “Saint-Astier quarries, as well as pottery, “Périgueux was unified in 1240. But I th leather and hay. On the upstream trip, between the Viking invasions of the 14 these Périgord men brought back spices century, the Plague epidemics, the fa- and salt. An economic system had deve- mines, wars and floods, the town’s his- loped along the river, with water-mills, tory has not always been easy. This story iron-forges and fisheries. Nearly 300 is wonderfully told in the book “Jacquou boatmen lived and worked there until the le Croquant” by Eugene Le Roy,” adds 1930s”, explains Michel Cadet. Michel Cadet. Although history is his passion, in his The canoe-trip continues below the everyday life, Michel Cadet is a doctor in Maisons des Quais, these very elegant Périgueux, president of the town’s canoe houses built in the 15th century during club and very involved in the touristic the Golden Age of the Renaissance, long development of the Isle Valley. “Tourism before one of Napoleon III’s ministers is at the crossroads of all my passions: ordered the building of the wharves. At sports, leisure, culture and gastronomy. the time, these houses were on the edge © Jonathan Barbot It allows people to meet around all these different activities and to highlight the th incredible heritage that we live in. Built “In the 19 century, 700 “gabares” heritage of course, but also natural heritage! In this valley, we have black kites, used the Périgueux river port every swans and fresh-water mussels... It is essential to share all this with our visitors”, year. An economic system had he says. developed along the river, with water- CANOE TRIPS The Isle Valley has three canoe-kayak mills, iron-forges and fisheries” clubs, all in the National 1 category, and all among the best clubs in France. They of the water, thus giving Périgueux, capi- 150-year-old chalk-ovens. It is magical,” offer educational, touristic and sports ac- tal of the Périgord, an “air of Venice” to says the doctor. He also suggests a visit tivities and games. use Catherine de Medici’s words when to the fish farms in Neuvic, dedicated to In Périgueux, to bring the valley’s trea- she passed through the town in 1542. breeding of sturgeon fish and produc- sures to life, Michel Cadet has worked And finally, these sporty tourists can go tion of caviar, a veritable jewel of local with the Canoe Club to set up a series onto a well-earned stop at the Barnabé gastronomy. And then why not go on to of canoe trips. This certification, by the Riverside Restaurant, recently renovated the Moulin de Duellas for another ri- French Kayak Federation, combines the in its original style. ver-cruise... on a “gabare” this time. practice of canoeing or kayaking with From there, the kayakers row back, this the discovery of historical heritage. On time by torchlight, to discover Périgueux board the Rabaskas, 15-seater canoes of by night. Native American origin, the visitors row up the river, with a coxswain-guide, na- ALONG THE ISLE RIVER vigating back through time and discove- Beyond the town of Périgueux, the Isle ring a most perfect view of Périgueux, as River winds its way through many pic- we see it from the river. turesque villages, such as Saint-Astier, Neuvic, Mussidan and others. And PÉRIGUEUX “AN AIR OF VENICE” even though the whole valley is scat- Starting at the Saint-Claire departure tered with historical and natural sites CANOË-KAYAK point, the kayakers will row from the to see, for Michel Cadet, one of the ancient Roman oppidum as far as the “must-see” visits is definitely the ancient Moulin de Sainte-Claire Barnabé Riverside Restaurant, a high quarries of the Saint-Astier Chalk Facto- 24000 Périgueux place of the “années folles” in Périgueux. ry. “You can walk 20 metres below the +33 5 53 04 24 08 On the way they can see the Vesunna ground in a long labyrinth looking at the www.perigueuxcanoe.org

| 23 LOCAL PERSONALITIES

THIERRY DE SEVIN A VEGETAL SYMPHONY © Loïc Mazalrey

hether they are the rain-water and construct the 650 metres intimate or won- of water-pipes, then plant 80 000 boxwoods, derfully luxu- 1 300 rosebushes and 1 200 hornbeam rious, designed trees, as well as trace out the paths and sculpt “à la française” the flower-beds with names as evocative as or for meditation, the Rosace de Saint-Front, freely inspired by all over the Dor- the rosette in Périgueux’s Saint-Front Cathe- dogne you will find gardens that literally dral, or the “Cloître” (cloister), made up of Wsculpt the landscape. The county has a 260 boxwood cubes. large number of "Jardins remarquables", In the 18 hectares of the domain, Thierry and one of these, the Jardins du Bouquet, de Sevin plays with the size of the flower- can be found in Sorges, the truffle capital beds, from 6m2 to 1 600m2, as well as of the Dordogne. It is an extraordinary with the symmetry, the colours, the light vegetal symphony surrounding an elegant and shade. “I didn’t want to create a formal stately home built in 1830. French garden, nor an English one nor an Italian one” explains Thierry de Sevin, “I wanted a garden with a contemporary spi- The Jardins rit, but with classic lines. A unique garden which surprises the visitor at every turn du Bouquet are and makes him want to create his own garden.” a real source of Thierry de Sevin has placed about 30 benches around the garden : the “Va- inspiration. Here, lentine” bench invites visitors to ”whis- per sweet words to each other”, while very clearly, the bench for the chaperones is “not very comfortable”, smiles our malicious garde- serenity reigns ner, whose obvious pleasure is to surprise us… again and again. Open to the public since June 2018, the The Jardins du Bouquet are a true source gardens are the work of a self-made lands- of inspiration for all future gardeners... they caper, former executive from the food and invite one to dream and to sit in contem- marketing world, who had always drea- plation. Here, very clearly, serenity reigns. med of making his own Garden of Eden. “ I have been drawing garden designs for twenty years. When I was a child, I had my own vegetable garden. For me, being able to create my own garden was a childhood LES JARDINS DU BOUQUET dream ”, confides Thierry de Sevin, the de- mi-god of this enchanted garden. Le Bouquet When he acquired the domain at his retire- 24420 Sorges ment, the fields of cereals stretched as far as Information:+33 5 53 08 72 84 the eye could see. Eight long years were nee- www.lesjardinsdubouquet.fr ded for Thierry de Sevin to create the terraces Open every day from June 25th

Photos Jardin du Bouquet Photos and develop them, build the ponds to collect to November 1st

24 | PÉRIGUEUX AND THE ISLE VALLEY

TOURIST SITES

CHANCELADE CHANCELADE ABBEY History, heritage and spirituality all come together at the Chance- lade Abbey. In its natural setting in the heart of the Périgord Blanc, and just a stone’s throw from Périgueux, this abbey, founded in 1120, still welcomes pilgrims walking to Santiago de Compostela, for whom the Chancelade Abbey is a deﬁnite stop-over. Nationa- lised during the French Revolution, it has once again become a high place of religious practice. Since 1992, it has been home to a community of Canons Regular of the Congregation of Saint Victor, who live according to the Rule of Saint Augustin, just as they did during the golden age of the Abbey from the 12th to the 18th centuries. The abbey is also a place of heritage and has been classiﬁed as a historical monument. A huge programme of renovations has been undertaken, in particular to restore the sumptuous abbey-house and the outdoor theatre that hosted the “Comédie Francaise” in the past. The well-known fountain that gave its name to the Abbey has already been restored to its former glory. In fact, the name Chance- lade comes from the Latin fons cancellatus, meaning hidden fountain and is supposedly the place where the founder hermit of the Canon community lived. Open visits or guided visits with a member of the “Amis de l’Abbaye”. +33 6 85 88 45 77 Information: www.abbaye-chancelade.com/ © abbaye de Chancelade © CDT Dordogne © CDT

TRUFFLE ECOMUSEUM © Jonathan Barbot The only one of its kind, the Truffle Eco-museum © Jonathan Barbot presents all the information concerning the truffle ANDRÉ-VOULGRE MUSEUM OF VILLE D’ART ET D’HISTOIRE and its cultivation. Throughout your visit, you will find POPULAR ARTS AND TRADITIONS The private collections of Doctor André Voulgre evoke As the capital of the Périgord, Périgueux invites you to information panels, photographs, tools and audiovisual the evolution of the Périgord society through the arts, discover 2000 years of history. From the ancient Gallo- displays. As you leave the museum, we suggest you daily life, farming techniques, pottery and ancient crafts Roman city of Vesunna to the heart of the Medieval and follow the Truffle Discovery Trail which will take you and trades. In this large, 18th century stately home Renaissance town, there are thirty-nine buildings listed through the natural habitat of this “Black Diamond”. you can find workshops of these by-gone trades and or classified as Historical Monuments, set in one of the SORGES a variety of collections; domestic objects, lights, tools, largest areas of protected heritage in France. The Saint- farming machinery, taxidermy displays, regional pottery Front Cathedral is a Unesco World Heritage site on the +33 5 53 05 90 11 www.sorges-perigord.com and more. pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostella. MUSSIDAN PÉRIGUEUX +33 5 53 81 23 55 +33 5 53 53 10 63 www.museevoulgre.fr www.tourisme-perigueux.fr

26 | PÉRIGUEUX AND THE ISLE VALLEY TOURIST SITES

VESUNNA GALLO-ROMAN MUSEUM DUELLAS MILL AND GABARE Unique in France, the museum, designed by the French Situated on a 6-hectare island, this mill bears witness architect, Jean Nouvel, is built over the remains of a to past industrial activities needing water-power. It was luxurious Gallo-Roman house. The whole house can a flour mill, a saw-mill and even produced electricity. be viewed from the mezzanine, and you can take the Exhibitions, by different guest artists, are held there themed walk-about which explains “The city and public LARDIMALIE WINE-CELLAR MUSEUM from May to October with both open and guided visits. life” as well as “The household and private life”. The This vine and wine museum is in a stunning wine cellar River-trips on a gabare (traditional flat-bottomed boat) high, glass walls reveal the outside landscaped park built in 1902 and listed as a Historic Monument. A rare with commentary leave from the mill to navigate along around the Vesunna Tower and sections of the 4th collection of tools, used by wine-growers, grape-pic- the River Isle, passing through a manually-operated century rampart walls. kers, cellar-men and coopers, is on show in their river lock. natural settings. The wine cellar itself evokes the lives PÉRIGUEUX of those who worked there until 1967. SAINT-MARTIAL-D’ARTENSET +33 5 53 53 00 92 +33 5 53 82 39 54 www.perigueux-vesunna.fr SAINT-PIERRE-DE-CHIGNAC www.moulin-duellas.fr +33 5 53 35 44 96 www.chaidelardimalie.com © Jonathan Barbot © Musée Vesunna © Musée © Jonathan Barbot © Caviar de Neuvic © Caviar © Ferme du Parcot © Ferme © William Lesourd © William NEUVIC CAVIAR FARM FERME DE PARCOT NEUVIC CHÂTEAU AND BOTANICAL The domain lives to the rhythm of nature’s seasons and Classified as a Historic Monument and on the official GARDENS the sturgeons’ life-cycle and testifies to the excellence th list of picturesque sites in the Dordogne, this 19 Built in the 16th century and today classified as a in the production of caviar. The site-manager will guide century farm is of great ecological value and exceptional Historic Monument, the château has retained, from you around the fishery and explain the history and architectural interest. It is one of the last timber-framed the Renaissance period, its vaulted rooms, its painted life-cycle of the fish that spend at least seven years farm-houses in the area, built in 1841 in the heart of murals and an extremely rare three-level stone sink. In in these waters, before laying their eggs. You will also the forest of the Double. the botanical gardens you can discover a wide variety discover the very precise and precious savoir-faire necessary for the production of caviar. It’s the very best ÉCHOURGNAC of flowers, shrubs and trees, in all different shapes, colours and scents. From oaks and maples to dogwood way to prepare you for the tasting session. +33 5 53 81 99 28 www.parcot.org and peonies, plant-life simply thrives in these gardens. NEUVIC NEUVIC +33 5 53 80 89 57 www.caviar-de-neuvic.com +33 5 53 80 86 65 www.fondationdelisle.fr

| 27 COMING EVENTS

PÉRIGUEUX MIMOS FESTIVAL END OF JULY In the streets of Périgueux, at the end of July, you can meet the des- cendants of the Marcel Marceau Mime movement, for a poetic moment of the art of silence. You will discover new mime performances, marvel at the fantasy décors, chat to the performers and be sur- prised by the corporal expressiveness. Mimos is a highly versatile festival that defies classification, offering a space to the less repre- sented artistic practices like mime and physical or burlesque theatre. As the only festival dedicated to mime in France, and the main one in Europe, it is an international festival of performance arts where all the artistic disciplines of corporal movement come together. Theatre and circus arts performers, clowns and dancers invade Périgueux for six days, with more than 20 shows in the official “In” programme (and as many in the Fringe “Off” programme), given by 350 performers in front of 80 000 visitors from all over the world.

FARMERS’ PÉRIGUEUX artists and authors who are MARKETS always ready to sign your copy TRUFFLE © CLAP of their book. Whether it is in the evening for www.bd-bassillac.com a festive meal with friends, or FESTIVAL during the day to top up your JANUARY shopping with good-quality A festival to the rhythm PÉRIGUEUX produce, the Dordogne of trufﬂes, awards and AND farmers and artisans welcome entertainment. you to their street markets +33 5 53 53 10 63 SURROUNDINGS all year long, where they www.tourisme-perigueux.fr SINFONIA will help you to discover the EN PÉRIGORD specialities of the Périgord. SORGES +33 6 85 10 88 82 These farmers’ markets are www.marchedantan- PÉRIGUEUX END OF AUGUST easily identiﬁed by their logo TRUFFLE marsaneix.com GOURMET Festival of baroque music. FESTIVAL NIGHTS +33 5 53 08 69 81 www.sinfonia-en-perigord.com END OF JANUARY CENDRIEUX JULY - AUGUST +33 5 53 05 90 11 THE In the heart of Périgueux’s CENDRIALES historical centre, come to

PÉRIGUEUX FESTIVAL the night market to enjoy the © CLAP festive ambiance and the EXPOÉSIE END OF JUNE - great food, made from local, FESTIVAL MID-JULY and less local, products. A multi-faceted festival in MARCH +33 5 53 02 82 17 a rural setting. Exhibitions, and conform to the terms of Within the national festival theatre, concerts, short-ﬁlms. a charter that requires that Printemps des poètes, PÉRIGUEUX PÉRIGUEUX all produce presented in the Expoésie, created in 2002, is +33 6 08 06 87 75 markets originates directly a unique and vibrant poetic www.lescendriales.org MACADAM JAZZ FATTED GOOSE and exclusively from local experience, which combines JULY - AUGUST AND DUCK farmers and breeders. GRAND PÉRIGUEUX poetry, contemporary arts and On Tuesday evenings, jazz MARKETS Dates and further information gourmet food. MNOP concerts in different open-air FROM NOVEMBER may be found on: www.ferocemarquise.org JULY spaces around the town. TO MARCH www.marches Musiques de la Nouvelle- +33 5 53 08 69 81 On Wednesday and Saturday -producteurs.com MARSANEIX Orléans en Périgord. Jazz www.clap-perigueux.com mornings. Buy your foie gras, concerts, blues music duck ﬁllets, livers, carcasses, DONKEY in different venues around BASSILLAC etc. directly from the local FESTIVAL the Dordogne. COMIC-BOOK breeders of ducks and geese. EARLY MAY www.mnop.fr +33 5 53 53 10 63 Donkey-foal market and FESTIVAL www.tourisme-perigueux.fr traditional market with OCTOBER entertainment and on-site Come and see the exhibitions food to buy. and meet the comic-book

28 | PÉRIGUEUX AND THE ISLE VALLEY SHORT STAYS AND EXCURSIONS

Enjoy the Périgord We have more than 2 500 offers of accommodation to help you have the very best holiday. www.dordogne-perigord-tourisme.fr Tickle your palate Back to essentials

NEUVIC PÉRIGUEUX Visit to the Neuvic Caviar Fishery and tasting session. Here, the domain lives A long week-end in Périgueux to the rhythm of the seasons and the and its surroundings to recharge life-cycle of the sturgeon ﬁsh. Lunch your batteries. You will sleep at the château de Neuvic. in a former convent and enjoy discovering a more spiritual Visit to the Moulin de la Veyssière and Périgord during a stay that is walnut-oil tasting. You will learn about off the beaten track and ﬁlled the history of the mill and how they with atypical encounters, quality make the oils. River-trip in a “gabare” concerts and unexpected visits.

(traditional ﬂat-bottomed boat), Foucher © Christian

© Moulin de la Veyssière © Moulin passing through the river lock. 4 days / 3 nights from 2 to 9 August and from 23 to 26 August. I day from 58€/person – 20 people minimum 490€ per person in double room with full board. Information/reservations: +33 5 53 35 71 22 Information/reservations: +33 5 53 53 41 05 [email protected] [email protected]

LEISURE ACTIVITIES

SAINT-AMAND- DE-VERGT NEUFONT LAKE Less than half-an-hour from Périgueux, bathers, ﬁshermen and campers will love the Neufont Lake, surrounded by forests and with two beaches, water-slide and campsite. Swimming is supervised and in summer, you can try the pedal- boats and stand-up paddle boards. The “guinguette” river-café is very

well-known and offers good food and © Agence Les Conteurs concerts as well as a night market on certain summer evenings. Free entry. VALLÉE DE L’ISLE +33 5 53 54 93 90 THE “VOIE VERTE” www.neufont.com RIVER WALK Along the 100 kilometres of this river walk and cycle-path, you will ﬁnd a condensed version of every treasure the Périgord has to offer, from natural, protected habitats and historical sites to industrial heritage and gourmet food. From the Gironde to Périgueux, with friends or family, you can discover, visit and “taste” your way along this recently completed walk and cycle path. www.tourisme-isleperigord.com © OTI Grand Périgueux Grand © OTI

| 29 Lascaux and the Vézère Valley The magic of the underground world and pre-history... 400 000 years of history Lascaux, Centre International de l’Art Pariétal in Montignac AMBASSADOR © Martin Walker © Martin MARTIN WALKER

SCOTTISH JOURNALIST, AUTHOR OF THE BRUNO COURRÈGES, CHIEF OF POLICE, CRIME FICTION STORIES*

For many years a war correspondent for the British daily paper, " The Guardian ", the Scottish journalist, Martin Walker has been making the Dordogne famous around the world through the adventures of his hero, THE VÉZÈRE VALLEY Bruno Courrèges. He now lives in Le Bugue, in the Dordogne where A SETTING he recently received the National Golden Medal for Tourism. THAT CAPTIVATES * The crime ﬁction series THE PLANET by Martin Walker has been published in French From the painted, engraved caves of Cro-Magnon by Masque Publications : to the troglodytic cave-dwellings of the Middle Ages, « Meurtre en Périgord », 2012. the Vézère Valley still bears the traces « Sombres vendanges », 2013. « Noirs diamants », 2014. of these ancient civilizations. Today, the medieval and renaissance chateaux keep watch over

this land of history, of legends and of mysteries du Temps Fil © Au

32 | LASCAUX AND THE VÉZÈRE VALLEY artin Walker’s ﬁrst Courreges, a local police chief and gourmet encounter with cook. The character is directly inspired by the Périgord was the life of my good friend Pierrot Simonet, thanks to its gas- who really is a municipal policeman in Le tronomy. In the Bugue! My wife, who really is always right, early 1980s, the advised me to write a series about him. Scottish journalist Bingo!” was reporting on the Perestroika and the Yes, bingo… because the series is a huge MGorbatchev era from his ofﬁce in Moscow success. Translated into 18 languages

for the daily paper, “The Guardian”. He and with 4 million copies sold around the Verlag Einwanger/Diogenes © Klaus was passionate about the subject but a lot world, the stories about Bruno Courrèges less about the local specialties, “Borshtch” have captivated the planet and spread the or “Beef Stroganoff”. During that period, charm and the culture of the Périgord when he was on holiday staying with some beyond its borders. The success has been British friends living in the Dordogne, he so enormous that Martin Walker has en- discovered the atmosphere of the local larged on his subject and published a book street markets and the taste of truffles and of Bruno Courrèges’ recipes. It immediately duck-meat. He was delighted by the qua- won the Gourmand International prize for lity of life here and began to come more the best French cuisine cook-book in the regularly, visiting the area and eventually world. putting down his globe-trotter’s suitcases in the village of Le Bugue, considered as A LAND OF RESISTANCE the door to the Vézère Valley. “How’s that for a Scotsman, hey?” says an © Loïc Mazalrey “In 1998, I was at the White House. I had amused Martin Walker, as he lines up his managed to get an interview with President distinctions and savours his success with Clinton, and was waiting, somewhat ner- the same gourmet passion as if he were vously, to enter the Oval Office, when my tasting a dish perfumed with truffles. Be- wife, Julia, phoned to say that she had found “our house” in the Périgord. To be honest, I hadn’t really known that we were looking “I like living as a Périgord inhabitant: for a house! But, then, my wife is always right!” he says with his British humour. cooking their way, dressing in medieval “ I USED TO WRITE SERIOUS costumes and sharing a meal together. BOOKS BEFORE ” Martin Walker insists that the Dordogne The people of the Dordogne are very has definitely changed his life. Very qui- ckly the journalist, a trained historian, warm-hearted and I have received developed a passion for the painted caves of the region. But to tell the stories of the a truly wonderful welcome” lives of these prehistoric men, journalistic investigation did not suffice and rapidly cause today, the Scotsman is a member of newspaper and he continues to delve deep the need to use fiction became clear. He the Confrérie du Pâté, and the Académie into the local History, with a capital ‘H’. He wrote his first novel “Les grottes du Péri- des lettres et des Arts du Périgord. He is a is fascinated by the mysteries of the Prehis- gord”, “because”, as he says, “if you really Grand Consul of the town of Vinée and a tory period, by the 100-year war, by Char- want to describe and tell the stories of this Chevalier de la Confrérie du Raisin d’or as lemagne as well as by the complex relations 18 000-year-old society, you first have to well as being an Ambassador of the Confré- between the Gascons and the British, and imagine it”. Published in Britain, the United rie de Chabrol du pays de Montaigne. he is proud to feel that he now belongs to States and then in various European coun- “I like feeling that I have integrated and this “terre de résistants”. tries, the book was a huge success, beco- am now living like a Périgord inhabitant: ming number 8 on "The Washington Post" cooking their way, dressing in medieval best-sellers list. So Martin Walker decided costumes and sharing a meal together. The to launch into fiction-writing. This land of people of the Dordogne are very warm- (hi)stories and legends, of dark forests, deep hearted and I have received a truly wonder- chasms and painted, lime-stone caves ope- ful welcome”, he is pleased to add. ned the doors of his imagination. Between novels (he brings out one a year), “Before coming here, I used to write serious although only three have been translated books or political essays. Today, I write into French, Martin Walker writes ar- about the adventures of my hero Bruno ticles on the Périgord wine for a British

| 33 LOCAL PERSONALITIES

JEAN-CHRISTOPHE MOURET WALNUTS, THE GOLDEN FRUIT © Loïc Mazalrey

n the 13th century, walnut oil was family for at least five generations. I started worth the price of gold! This famous nut-gathering when I was 10. It was very elixir, used to light both humble abo- tough for the women, bending over all the des and great cathedrals, was already time. But after the work, we would all sit being used to give flavour to local around the excellent stews cooked by my cooking and was part of a flourishing grand-mother and there was a very happy trade. Today, walnut trees are eve- atmosphere ", he tells. rywhere in Dordogne; on hillsides, along After studies in the agri-food industry, Ithe roads, in the valleys… and the Périgord Jean-Christophe Mouret first became a walnut has a protected appellation (AOC), gendarme, then took over the family bu- an undeniable sign of its quality and au- siness in 2011 to perpetuate the walnut thenticity. Because here the growing of tradition. His orchards, planted in extensive farming over 50 hectares, produce 80 tonnes of walnuts every year. They are essentially of “Here the walnut the Franquette variety, with their delicate aroma, but he also farms the Corne variety, trees take root "It’s a rarer variety, a rustic one, with a soft, sweet, very fine taste", he explains. in a chalky-clay The two brothers also produce a very aro- matic walnut oil, cold-pressed in the an- soil that gives cient mill of Sainte-Eulalie-d’Ans and certified as Super coq d’or by the Guide des the nuts their Gourmands. Very attached to transparency in his wal- delicate, very nut production, Jean-Christophe Mouret is also the president of the network Bienve- fine flavour” nue à la ferme. Every summer, he welcomes visitors onto his lands, so as to share and © Loïc Mazalrey explain the different stages in production… walnut trees goes back to ancestral times before letting the visitors camp in the shade and the producers of this fruit worth gold of the centenary walnut trees. can be very proud of their savoir-faire. In Nailhac, the La Guillou orchards spread out over a rocky hill, just a stone’s throw from the classical chateau of Hautefort. LES VERGERS Co-owner of the orchards with his brother DE LA GUILLOU Frederic, Jean-Christophe Mouret still re- members when the walnuts were harvested by hand, when women came from the 24390 Nailhac surrounding villages to gather his grand- www.lesvergersdelaguillou.com father’s walnuts. [email protected] " The La Guillou orchards have been in the

34 | LASCAUX AND THE VÉZÈRE VALLEY TOURIST SITES

CHÂTEAU DE HAUTEFORT PÔLE D’INTERPRÉTATION This fortress is a blend of medieval DE LA PRÉHISTOIRE defense buildings and classic re- sidential quarters, with 17th and 18th Centre of information and acti- century furniture, an English-style vities to help you to understand park and French gardens. Enjoy CAMPAGNE CHÂTEAU prehistory. Exhibitions, workshops, an interactive visit in a true cinema AND PARK educational activities, multi-media décor. library, conferences, ﬁlms and The park has a remarkably rich documentaries, live shows, etc. HAUTEFORT vegetation and landscape inspired © Dan Courtice © Dan by the English-style gardens of LES EYZIES-DE-TAYAC +33 5 53 50 51 23 the 19th century. Events such as www.chateau-hautefort.com +33 5 53 06 06 97 concerts, exhibitions, leisure activi- www.pole-prehistoire.com ties are organized there. MONTIGNAC CAMPAGNE LASCAUX II & IV +33 5 53 06 82 70 Discovered in 1940, the Lascaux www.dordogne.fr Cave, which offers the highest density of cave art in the world, was endangered by the high number of visitors at the time, and forced to close in 1963. In 1983, the facsimile Lascaux II opened. It was an excellent replica of the very densely painted part of the original cave. In 2016 Lascaux IV, the new integral facsimile, was inaugu-

rated, and the love-story between Montgolﬁères © Corrèze © CD 24 Schmitt © Daniel the cave and its visitors took a new turn, as this new replica has used thirty years of technological progress such as the 3D scan and black light to reproduce all of the engravings, to the nearest millime- ter. Every crack and crevice of the rock-face was copied and the engravings and paintings were done using the same techniques and materials that were used 20 000

years ago. The Lascaux IV visitors Courtice © Dan are also able to enjoy the famous Shaft scene, not reproduced in GROTTE DU GRAND ROC Lascaux II. Using your “tour com- This natural master-piece is a panion”(interactive digital tablet © La Madeleine “forest” of crystal structures of an incredible variety, of stalagmites with texts, video and audio tracks), TROGLODYTE VILLAGE and stalactites, sometimes thin and © Jardins de l’imaginaire you can explore the prehistoric art OF LA MADELEINE translucid, sometimes imposing, LES JARDINS techniques and formulate hypo- Made habitable by man and lived in as well as eccentrically-shaped DE L’IMAGINAIRE theses that the parietal art theatre, from the Middle Ages until the end crystal structures that defy the laws Water features, cascades, lands- 3D cinema and enhanced rea- of the 19th century, this medieval of gravity. caped gardens and perspectives lity visit will try to answer, without village has a gothic chapel half-way LES EYZIES-DE-TAYAC will delight you as you walk through drawing any deﬁnite conclusions, up the cliff-face. Objects from a the thirteen themed gardens, with because Lascaux, 80 years after prehistoric deposit can be seen. +33 5 53 06 92 70 their amazing view over the old www.grotte-grand-roc.fr its discovery, has still not revealed town of Terrasson. Certiﬁed “Jardin TURSAC all of its secrets. remarquable” and “20th Century +33 5 53 46 36 88 Heritage Site”. Information: +33 5 53 50 99 10 www.la-madeleine-perigord.com www.lascaux.fr TERRASSON-LAVILLEDIEU +33 5 53 50 86 82 www.jardins-imaginaire.com

| 35 TOURIST SITES

GROTTE DE ROUFFIGNAC MUSÉE Huge underground PARC DU CHOCOLAT cavern decorated with JARDINS DU BOURNAT GROTTE BOVETTI PANORAMIQUES DE TOURTOIRAC 14 000-year-old prehis- Come and enjoy a unique This museum explains toric drawings showing DE LIMEUIL theme park where you will As you follow the the history of cocoa and mammoths, rhinoceros, At the top of one of the ABRI DE discover the life of the re- underground river in this chocolate. At the end of bison, horses and ibex. “plus beaux villages de CRO-MAGNON gion in 1900 (coach-rides, cave, you will marvel the tour, the children make The guided visit is on a France”, these gardens The cave where the first olden-day games, de- at the play of light and their own chocolate mould small electric train. offer a spectacular view tomb of modern man monstrations by artisans, shadow between the to take home. The visit over the confluence of was discovered in 1868. calcite columns, draperies, finishes with a choco- ROUFFIGNAC- activity workshops and the the Vézère and Dordogne Interactive activities eccentrically-shaped late-tasting session. SAINT-CERNIN- 1900 Ferris Wheel) Rivers. to try (hologram film, crystals or thin, translucid DE-REILHAC TERRASSON- touch tablets, immersive LE BUGUE stalactites. LAVILLEDIEU +33 5 53 05 41 71 LIMEUIL scenography). +33 5 53 08 41 99 TOURTOIRAC www.grottederouffignac.fr +33 5 53 57 52 64 www.lebournat.fr +33 5 53 51 57 36 www.jardins-panoramiques- LES EYZIES- +33 5 53 50 24 77 www.bovetti.com limeuil.com DE-TAYAC www.grotte-de-tourtoirac.fr +33 5 53 13 58 54 www.abri-cromagnon.com © Grotte de Tourtoirac © Grotte du chocolat Bovetti © Musée © Grotte de Rouffignac © Grotte du Temps Fil © Au Courtice @ Dan © Le Bournat © Aquarium du Périgord noir © Aquarium du Périgord © Dan Courtice © Dan © Château de Losse © Château

CHÂTEAU PARC DU THOT

animals during Prehistoric Proumeyssac de © Gouffre DE COMMARQUE by a moat. The Renais- Saint-Christophe © La Roque AQUARIUM DU Go back through the sance wing of the chateau PÉRIGORD NOIR times. See the wolves, aurochs and bison in the 15 000 years of the history has exceptional decor and The biggest fresh-water GOUFFRE of this site (photo exhibi- 16th and 17th century furni- animal park and enjoy the DE PROUMEYSSAC LA ROQUE SAINT- aquarium in Europe with discovery workshops on tion, troglodyte dwellings, ture. The beautiful gardens more than 6000 fish This underground cavern reconstituted rooms of the have been certified CHRISTOPHE cave art, leather-working, is filled with a multitude (carp, catfish, sturgeon etc. fortress, medieval castrum “Jardins remarquables”. From Prehistoric times, and many more) as well as of crystallisations of ex- and Romanesque tower). man lived in these natural ceptional density. You can THONAC alligators, lizards, turtles, THONAC Workshops and activities. caves at the foot of this snakes and iguana. descend into the cavern in +33 5 53 50 80 08 sheer limestone cliff, be- +33 5 53 50 70 44 www.parc-thot.fr a rotating basket to get a LES EYZIES-DE- www.chateaudelosse.com fore building a fortress and LE BUGUE 360° view of this Crystal TAYAC-SIREUIL troglodyte dwellings there +33 5 53 07 10 74 Cathedral. +33 5 53 59 00 25 in the Middle Ages. www.aquariumperigordnoir. www.commarque.com com AUDRIX PEYZAC-LE- +33 5 53 07 27 47 MOUSTIER www.gouffre-proumeyssac. +33 5 53 50 70 45 com www.roque-st-christophe.com

36 | LASCAUX AND THE VÉZÈRE VALLEY COMING EVENTS

MONTIGNAC CULTURES AUX CŒURS END OF JULY - BEGINNING OF AUGUST Every year, during the festival Cultures aux Cœurs, musicians, dancers, photographers, artists and ﬁlm-makers from all over the world, all come together in a true spirit of sharing and frater- nity that warms the heart. A Member of the International Coun- cil of Folklore and Traditional Arts Festivals (a partner NGO to UNESCO), this unique festival has been defending, for forty years, the intangible cultural heritage of every country through a very wide programme. The performances in the “In” ofﬁcial programme as well as the concerts and workshops in the “Off” Fringe programme bring together 300 performers and attract 25 000 festival-goers, making Montignac, for one week, the centre of the Périgord… and the world.

FARMERS’ craft. There is also Heritage TERRASSON House in rue du Couvent PÉRIGORD NOIR AURIAC- MARKETS PATHS OF THE where you can discover the FESTIVAL DU-PÉRIGORD Whether it is in the evening for heritage of the Périgord Noir. a festive meal with friends, or IMAGINATION DU PÉRIGORD JAZZ NUTS www.vezere-perigord.fr during the day to top up your FESTIVAL NOIR END OF JULY - shopping with good-quality JULY VALLÉE BEGINNING OF AUGUST produce, the Dordogne In Terrasson, for several days Jazz music festival. farmers and artisans welcome in July, the old town becomes DE LA VÉZÈRE www.jazz-nuts-festival-auriac.fr you to their street markets the stage for concerts, street all year long, where they performers and cinema. FESTIVAL will help you to discover the MUSIQUE SAINT-LÉON- specialities of the Périgord. +33 5 53 50 13 80 www.centre-culturel- EN PÉRIGORD SUR-VÉZÈRE These farmers’ markets are terrasson.fr easily identiﬁed by their logo END OF JULY - RANDO SILEX BEGINNING OF AUGUST OCTOBER Classical and contemporary music concerts in the Festive mountain-bike ride, churches of the villages along walking hike, trail-biking and the Vézère Valley. convivial meal together. +33 5 53 30 36 09 www.velosilex.com/la-rando- www.musiqueenperigord.fr silex

ROUFFIGNAC- Thierry © Frédéric PÉRIGORD NOIR LÉBÉROU and conform to the terms of SAINT-CERNIN AUGUST - SEPTEMBER a charter that requires that STORY-TELLING ESTIVALES This festival of classical and FESTIVAL all produce presented in the DE L’HERM jazz music invites international markets originates directly musicians, “grands concours” NOVEMBER

© Cie Karnavires © Cie JULY - AUGUST and exclusively from local winners and young prodigies. Itinerant story-telling festival. farmers and breeders. Theatre festival at the château de l’Herm. +33 5 53 51 61 61 +33 6 85 13 91 15 Dates and further information TERRASSON www.festivalduperigordnoir.fr or +33 9 64 26 50 35 +33 5 53 05 46 61 may be found on: SHOPS AND www.contesduleberou.com www.marches www.rouffignac-perigordnoir.fr NAILHAC -producteurs.com HERITAGE HOUSE WALNUT JULY - AUGUST FESTIVAL The old town at the foot of the MID-AUGUST Saint-Sour Church is home to Entertainment, activities, several olden-day shops today on-site food and cooking occupied by craftsmen and competitions. women who work there and +33 5 53 51 51 65 offer demonstrations of their

| 37 SHORT STAYS AND EXCURSIONS

Enjoy the Périgord We have more than 2 500 offers of accommodation to help you have the very best holiday. www.dordogne-perigord-tourisme.fr

Discover our roots An electric bicycle ride!

SAINT-LÉON-SUR-VÉZÈRE THE VÉZÈRE VALLEY

Guided visit of the Roque Saint-Chris- Since 2018, the Vézère Valley, as a tophe site with its limestone cliff-face, destination of eco-friendly tourism, has one kilometre long and 80 metres high. moved into the era of the electric bikes The river and frost have always eroded with 18 pedelecs available for self-serve this sheer wall, leaving today nearly a rentals 24 hours a day, seven days a hundred cave-shelters and long terraces. week. Stop at Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère village. Four docking-stations across the valley: Lunch. Montignac (place Bertrand-de-Born), Les Eyzies (place de la Mairie), Visit of Lascaux , International Centre of Le Bugue (place de l’Hôtel-de-Ville) et

Cave Art. vallée de la Vézère Lascaux Dordogne OT Roufﬁgnac (place du 31-Mars-1944). © Sémitour Périgord Dan Courtice Dan © Sémitour Périgord ©

From 52€/person – 20 people minimum. Further information, booking and rentals on www.velo.valleevezere.com/ Information/reservations : +33 5 53 35 71 22 Cycling itineraries available on website www.lascaux-dordogne.com [email protected]

FREE for under 26s and the 1st Sunday of every month

The National Museum of Prehistory offers a comprehensive A few kilometers from les Eyzies, the Cap Blanc rock shelter approach to the Palaeolithic period, from 500,000 years ago to presents one of the greatest masterpieces of monumental the end of the last glacial period: stone tools, bone or ivory art prehistoric Magdalenian sculpture in the world, showing horses, objects, life-size reconstructions. bison and deer.

38 | LASCAUX AND THE VÉZÈRE VALLEY © MalikaTurin © MalikaTurin

TÈRRA AVENTURA A “HIGH-TECH”

TREASURE-HUNT © MalikaTurin Terra Aventura is a very original walk, a treasure hunt, over several kilometres which allows you to discover the region, the local There are more than 30 Terra Aventura “high-tech” treasure hunts heritage and lots of stories, while having fun. in Dordogne, which you can discover all year long. Some will take Armed with the free smartphone app “Terra Aventura”, the family you into the Périgord-Limousin Regional Park, others into the sets off on an adventure, to ﬁnd the clues, solve the riddles and Bergerac vineyards! hunt for the treasure. Parents and kids alike will enjoy this off-the- Information on website www.terra-aventura.fr and on the beaten-track way to explore and maybe even ﬁnd the jackpot: the smartphone app Tèrra Aventura. Poï’z. They are the little people with strong characters who live in the universe of Terra Aventura. You can even collect the badges. This fantasy universe gives you the opportunity to share lovely moments with your children as you discover new, and often unexpected, places.

DORDOGNE AS A FAMILY, IN THE LAND OF CHILDREN The Dordogne is full of sites and take a look at the guide-book to ﬁnd activities that will make your children’s a selection of more than 150 offers eyes shine! It is a dream destination specially adapted to families, and all for a thousand family adventures, both offering the Dordogne’s guarantee of under and above ground, up in the air quality. and even on water! Every child or parent will be able to Adventure all the way… who could ask ﬁnd the perfect activity, sometimes for more? And there is something for together, sometimes alone, and have everyone: sports, fun discovery visits the best adventures… lots of amazing of towns, educational farms, manual stories to tell afterwards. activities, discovering châteaux and caves… and more. “Guide Dordogne en famille” downloadable on To help you choose the best visits and www.dordogne-perigord-tourisme.fr activities for your children, you can and available in the Tourist Offices. © www.petitesourisphoto.com

| 39

The Ddogne Valley Legendary route of châteaux and the Middle Ages

AMBASSADOR © Jean Bonnefon JEAN BONNEFON

WRITER, SINGER- COMPOSER, STORY-TELLER, JOURNALIST *

Musician, singer, novelist as well as journalist and fervent defender of the occitan culture, Jean Bonnefon is, above all, a son of the Valley of the Dordogne, this “enchanted land” as Henri Miller called it, a cradle and refuge for poets since time MEETING began.

* Want to know more ? read THE OCCITAN "Jean Bonnefon, un parcours pluriel et singulier" by Catherine Ribeyrotte, MINSTREL editions Secrets de pays. FROM THE PERIGORD NOIR A true land of Cockaigne, the Valley of the Dordogne has always been home to a long tradition of the arts, from the men of Cro-Magnon to the troubadours of the Middle Ages, without forgetting Montaigne and

46 | THE DORDOGNE VALLEY never get tired of the Dor- From then on, he would write all his songs dogne Valley! It is an eter- in occitan. “It gave me the opportunity to nal place, one of those rare research the history of France, and defend lands where there have my roots, something very necessary if you constantly been traces of want to build your identity and open up to man since prehistory until others. Our roots are our basis, they are not today. A place of gentleness a form of retreat or withdrawal.” At the time and just measure. The land of Montaigne, he was performing on stage all around the Fenelon Iand La Boetie. The land of men region, and presenting a music programme “of reason. It is here that the 45th parallel on a "radio libre" in Sarlat. A few years later, and the Greenwich meridian meet….we are the left-wing came into power and freed up on a land of equilibrium,” confides Jean the air-waves. Bonnefon. Radio France Perigord was the third most And the Valley of the Dordogne is also the important local radio and Jean Bonnefon land of Jean Bonnefon. A land he loves more joined it firstly as a presenter, then as a jour- than any other. A land he has travelled in nalist and finally he became the director every direction for his music tours or jour- in 1996. “I presented programmes on local nalist reports, a land he has sung, a land he culture, going out to meet the local people has told on radio or television, a land where to talk about the rural life, the grandiose ar- he knows every man, every bastide town, chitecture and the history that all make up © Loïc Mazalrey every château. A land with which he has be- the identity of this territory,” he adds. come one, to such an extent that his friend Jean Bonnefon became the director of the Francis Cabrel describes him as : “Resolute Sarlat Cultural Centre, and continued to but open to others, stubborn but smiling sing and compose songs. Then he dropped and brotherly, green and deep like the Dor- everything to found Aqui TV, a Perigord te- dogne River.” Because, like the meanders of levision aimed at the grass-roots and local the Dordogne River, Jean Bonnefon’s life people: “… one of the greatest adventures of has taken a thousand turns. Born in 1950 in my life.” Bergerac, he grew up in the streets of the elegant town of Sarlat. At 15, his sole ambition was to “become an artist”, and today, fifty “The Valley of the Dordogne is an eternel years later, he is a singer and song-writer, a guitarist and a story-teller, as well as being place. A place of gentleness and just both novelist and journalist. According to his biographer, Catherine Rebeyrotte, Jean measure. The land of Montaigne, Fenelon Bonnefon is a “all-round perfectionist” and a “one-man orchestra”. and La Boetie. The land of men of reason”

A KNIGHT THE DORDOGNE, OF THE OCCITAN CULTURE THE CRADLE OF POETS “When I was 20, after May 68, on the Today, Jean Bonnefon continues to fight for Larzac Plateau, I was absolutely stunned culture and to carry far afield the colours to discover by the occitan culture, thanks of the Perigord. As president of the asso- to the poet, Claude Marti. Occitan was ciation Voix du sud, founded by Cabrel, he considered to be a dialect at the time. But defends and helps song-writers. He also per- it was the language of my grand-parents. It forms often, in shows such as Y a pas que le was spoken by the troubadours. It was the rugby (There is not only rugby) in which he language of a thousand-year-old culture, plays with his friend Daniel Chavaroche and spoken in the royal courts of Europe and it which mixes “chanson française” and Occi- was urgent to protect it because it was and is tan, or L’affaire Brassens. A short while ago, under threat,” says Jean Bonnefon. he celebrated, in the Sarlat theatre, the 40th Influenced as much by Brassens as by anniversary of Peyreguda, with both Cabrel the rock culture of the 60s and 70s, Jean and Yan de Nadau on stage with him. And Bonnefon, who already played the guitar, he has also published a book of short stories, founded, with his long-time friends, Patrick "Des nouvelles du temps". Because passing Salinie et Jean-Louis Garrigue, the band time has always been one of his passions. Peyreguda, “a name that sounds like Peri- For this son of the Dordogne, who grew up gord, and which also reminds us of silex, the within the cradle of poets, eternity is gallo- pointed stone used by prehistoric man.” ping on the walls of his caves.

| 47 LOCAL PERSONALITIES

NATHALIE DALBAVIE WINES THAT MAKE THE TERROIR SING © Loïc Mazalrey

ven though the Dordogne few vines in the garden and were amazed Valley is one of the oldest by the quality of the wine produced. A few wine-growing regions in years later, they had the chance to buy four France, the Domaine de la hectares of open land and the Domaine de voie blanche has only been in la voie blanche was born. existence for twelve years. Set “From the beginning, we used perma- in the heart of the Périgord, culture. We protect the soils with clover or between the Dordogne and the Vezere Ri- mustard plants and we pick the grapes by Evers, the vine-yards of the domain descend hand”, explains Nathalie Dalbavie. the ﬂanks of the limestone hills towards the Named in homage to the farmers of days village of Saint-Cyprien. They were planted gone by, who, in order to survive, had to mix in 2006 by two high-level musicians: the crops (vines, vegetables, fruit-trees, etc.), composer Marc-André Dalbavie and his the wine des Joualles is a lively, fruity wine wife, Nathalie, violist and violin-player. with the ability, the wine-grower assures us, “to put everyone in a good mood”. Its bigger brother, Le Petit Manoir is matured “Wine, like in earthen jars; an ancient technique used particularly around the Mediterranean sea music, brings and which allows the “terroir” aromas to be fully revealed. about a sensitive Today the Domaine de la voie blanche pro- © DR © Anita Pentecôte duces 24 000 bottles a year which grace connection to local dinner-tables with wines considered to be “joyous et energetic”, wines that make the world and the Périgord sing, because for these two musicians cum wine-growers, the link between to others: they music and wine is obvious; it is all about connecting with the sensitive and generous are both arts world, it is about sharing with others. It is an of sharing and exchange. It is art with a capital A. communicating” DOMAINE DE LA VOIE BLANCHE “We were living in Paris and I was playing in the National Orchestra of France and 24220 Saint-Cyprien at the National Opera House. But after an In summer : open visits of the vine-yards accident, I had to give up my career. My and wine-tasting at the domaine from 1pm father-in-law, originally from the Dordogne, to 7pm. All year long : guided visits of the owned a house here, so we decided to come vine-yards and wine-cellar by appointment to live here”, says Nathalie Dalbavie. only : +33 6 79 45 82 48. Soon after, the couple decided to plant a www.domaine-voie-blanche.com

48 | THE DORDOGNE VALLEY THE DORDOGNE RIVER BASIN A UNESCO BIOSPHERE RESERVE For twenty-ﬁve years, Epidor has been working with the The area is the first in the world to include both territorial actors of the Dordogne River Basin, in favour a major river and its surrounding basin. The

of its rivers, valleys and men. The balance preserved Reserve encourages experimentation, research, Breton-Epidor © Carole between nature and man’s activities was rewarded in environmental education and citizen participation 2012 by Unesco, when the Basin became part of the in finding a harmonious way to develop the worldwide network of Biosphere Reserves. territory. © Hervé Sentucq © Hervé

THE PÉRIGORD BY CANOE PURE DELIGHT AS YOU PADDLE The Dordogne River is the ideal place to go canoeing for pleasure and relaxation. It offers easy and varied rides past sumptuous landscapes, sheer cliffs, luxurious foliage, picturesque villages, châteaux and more. There is something for everyone, with gentle itineraries for the contemplative and tougher others for the more energetic: • the Auvézère River for the more sporty, with its gorges, rapids and former industrial sites dating to the time when water was used to turn the machines of the forges. • the Dordogne River is calm and majestic with its imposing châteaux overlooking the river, and its protected biotope, recognized by Unesco. • the Dronne River winds through the Périgord Vert, turbulent as it sets out and then calm as it reaches the Charente, and considered to be “the most beautiful river in France” by the geographer, Elisée Reclus. • the Vézère River, with its sheer cliffs, known as the “Valley of Man”, where prehistoric man chose to settle. The Isle River, agited as it leaves Jumilhac and becoming calmer as it crosses Périgueux, reminding us of the time when boats traded between the Perigord and Bordeaux. Numerous companies rent out the necessary equipment and docking points along the river invite you to rest, relax and enjoy. www.dordognecanoe.com © Jonathan Barbot

| 49

TOURIST SITES

CARSAC LES JARDINS D’EAU With its certified label "Jardin remarquable", this wonderful natural sanctuary, spread over three hectares of ponds and green spaces, shelters plant species from both South America and Asia, thus bringing a touch of the exotic to the heart of the Pé- rigord. From May to September, the constant flowering and re-flowering of about forty different varieties of lotus and more than eighty kinds of water-lilies make up the magnificent vegetal décor of the gardens. Take a side path to discover a small water- fall, or relax to the gentle sound of a running stream or just sit and stare at the calm waters of the different ponds. The lotus-flowers, water-lilies and aquatic plants rival each other in beauty and deli- cacy. Walk hand in hand with your loved one through the romantic atmosphere of the gardens, or come alone, or with your family or friends. However you come, you will love discovering these exceptional gardens, a wonderful melange of poetry and nature. The Kids’ route reveals the secrets of the 200 listed plants and gives children the chance to test the excellent interactive activities, such as using a tablet to play with the water sprays in the ponds, a fun game that will delight your future botanist children. Information: www.jardinsdeau.com © Jardin d’eau

CHÂTEAU DE BEYNAC Perched on a rocky peak, the château dominates the Dordogne River and Beynac, one of the "Plus beaux villages de France". The fortiﬁed castle built in the 12th century overlooks an extraordinary landscape. OPEN-AIR MUSEUM OF BYGONE DAYS BEYNAC-ET-CAZENAC Imagine you can be transported to a bygone age where des Milandes © Château you walk through streets from the beginning of the 20th +33 5 53 29 50 40 century, with more than 25 shops from the olden days. www.chateau-beynac.com ALLAS-LES-MINES TROGLODYTIC DWELLINGS +33 5 53 28 27 82 IN BELVÈS www.musee-laruedutempsquipasse.fr In the heart of this medieval village, take an unusual and historical journey back in time to discover the daily life of the village people (manants) who occupied these caves from the 13th to the 18th century. CHÂTEAU DES MILANDES BELVÈS Built between the 15th and 19th centuries, the château +33 5 53 29 10 20 © Stéphanie Boom © Stéphanie houses an exhibition which tells the story of Josephine www.perigordnoir-valleedordogne.com Baker, singer, dancer and previous owner. French-style gardens and birds of prey show. BELVÈS SPINNING MILL CASTELNAUD-LA-CHAPELLE Information and resource +33 5 53 59 31 21 centre about wool. Walk in the www.milandes.com footsteps of the mill-workers, visit the spinning mill and CHÂTEAU DE CASTELNAUD see the demonstrations and Entirely dedicated to Middle Age warfare, the fortress interactive exhibitions. Follow dominates the Dordogne Valley and gives you a 360° the transformation of raw wool view. You can enjoy the many medieval activities on into yarn. offer. MONPLAISANT CASTELNAUD-LA-CHAPELLE +33 5 53 31 83 05 www.ﬁlaturedebelves.com +33 5 53 31 30 00

www.castelnaud.com du Temps Fil Au de Belvès © Filature

| 51 TOURIST SITES

JARDINS DE MARQUEYSSAC PANORAMIC TOUR OF MONCALOU MAISON DE LA CHÂTAIGNE The 150 000 perfectly sculpted boxwood bushes were 23 metres high, the Tour of Moncalou, built near the The Maison de la Châtaigne, itself in chestnut wood and planted in the 19th century on this rocky hill which viniﬁcation cellar of Domme wines, is a must-see stone, is a very friendly and welcoming centre where you dominates the Dordogne Valley. Three different paths when you visit the Domme vineyards. Its summit with will learn everything about chestnuts: where they grow, will take you through the gardens up to the Belvedere, its orientation table, gives you a breath-taking view the wood and the terroir. The fun activity space, with an extraordinary balcony 130 metres above the river. over the Dordogne Valley, as far as the Massif Central. its four themed rooms, will reveal all the secrets about You can ﬁnd fun activities and different themes in One of the highest points in the southern part of the chestnuts. The centre also wants to highlight local sa- Marqueyssac gardens all year long. Dordogne. voir-faire and all those who work in the chestnut industry. VÉZAC FLORIMONT-GAUMIER VILLEFRANCHE-DU-PÉRIGORD +33 5 53 31 36 36 +33 5 53 31 71 00 +33 5 53 29 98 37 www.marqueyssac.com www.perigordnoir-valleedordogne.com www.perigordnoir-valleedordogne.com © Cave du vin de Domme © Cave © Laugery Bordeaux © OT Pays du châtaignier Pays © OT © OT Domme © OT

GROTTE DE LA HALLE © Jardins de l’Albarède Under the bastide town of Domme lives a fantasy world JARDINS DE L’ALBARÈDE © Ecomusée de la Noix © Ecomusée in the largest visitable cave in the Périgord Noir, with its In the heart of the Albarede Valley, this free-spirit gar- columns, its stalactites and stalagmites. The entrance ÉCOMUSÉE DE LA NOIX den combines old stones with flowers and fragrances. th is beneath the 17 century market-place and you will Situated in a former, restored farm-house, this space In a Mediterranean country-side atmosphere, you will explore a genuine treasure with 450 metres of under- invites you to discover the origins, history and work find perennial plants, wild flowers and ancient roses ground galleries. Going back up to the surface in the around the Périgord walnut. You will discover the local that match their colours to each season. Entirely organi- panoramic glass lift will give you one of the best views fauna and flora as you walk through the organic walnut cally-grown, it invites you to discover the pleasures of a of the Dordogne Valley. orchard. Traditional walnut-oil pressing sessions are or- country garden. DOMME ganised in the mill, which also houses the Aiguevive Oil Press that produces oil from the finest walnut kernels. SAINT-CYBRANET +33 5 53 31 71 00 +33 5 53 28 38 91 www.perigordnoir-valleedordogne.com CASTELNAUD-LA-CHAPELLE www.jardins-albarede.com +33 5 53 59 69 63 www.ecomuseedelanoix.fr

52 | THE DORDOGNE VALLEY COMING EVENTS

FARMERS’ DOMME CALVIAC- helicopters, autogyros and MARKETS parachutes. Aerobatics, ESCAPE GAME – EN-PÉRIGORD collector planes. Whether it is in the evening for +33 5 53 28 32 95 a festive meal with friends, or THE KEYS during the day to top up your TO FREEDOM CASTELNAUD- shopping with good-quality MAY TO SEPTEMBER produce, the Dordogne Come and defy time in the théâtre Atelier © OT LA-CHAPELLE farmers and artisans welcome magical setting of one of for theatre, puppets, music you to their street markets the majestic towers of the and more. KAYAK-CANOE all year long, where they emblematic Porte des Tours www.theatrefonduloup.fr MARATHON will help you to discover the in Domme. You will have only des épouvantails © Festival SEPTEMBER specialities of the Périgord. sixty minutes to solve the MEYRALS These farmers’ markets are riddles and find the keys to FÊTE DU CHABROL Get out your paddles! From the complete beginner to the easily identified by their logo freedom. Team-spirit, cunning SCARECROW FIRST WEEK OF AUGUST and conform to the terms of and intelligence will be your accomplished champion, there FESTIVAL Great entertainment, with the is space for everyone, in a a charter that requires that only weapons! tradition of Chabrol (adding red all produce presented in the LAST WEEK-END canoe, a kayak, a dug-out or a +33 5 53 31 71 00 OF JULY wine to the soup) respected at stand-up paddle-board. Come markets originates directly the evening meal, the induction Scarecrow-making and navigate on the Dordogne and exclusively from local ceremony at the Confrérie de CARVES competition. Scarecrows will River, between Saint-Julien-de- f a r m e r s a n d b r e e d e r s . Chabrol and fireworks. be on exhibition until the end Lampion and Castelnaud. Dates and further information FON DU LOUP of summer. Children’s games, may be found on: DOMME +33 6 75 61 58 28 THEATRE olden-day traditional games, www.marathoncanoekayak. www.marches-producteurs.com JUNE TO OCTOBER coach-rides, exhibition of AERONAUTICAL club.sportsregions.fr This rural theatre has become olden-day crafts, show and MEETING the Aquitaine Regional Centre fire-works. AUGUST for Puppetry Arts and today +33 5 53 31 13 56

receives performances and www.epoufest.com Presentation on the ground © P Greiller artists of international fame and in ﬂight of planes, © Jac’Phot

VILLEFRANCHE-DU-PÉRIGORD CHESTNUT AND CEP MUSHROOM FESTIVAL - END OF OCTOBER Every year in October, the bastide town of Villefranche-du-Pé- rigord organises a festival for two leading products of the Péri- gord gastronomy. Come rain or shine, for the last thirty years, the connoisseurs are there, on the third Sunday of October to celebrate chestnuts and cep mushrooms. You will discover an inﬁnite variety of gastronomical dishes using these two top terroir products, including the giant cep omelette and chestnuts grilled by the thousands. You can then stroll through the local produce market, keeping your taste-buds alert and staying ready for picturesque surprises like the “Confrerie” parade through the streets or the incredible chestnut-spitting competition, listed in the “Guinness Book of World Records”. A great atmosphere is guaranteed in this gourmet and very friendly festival which reﬂects perfectly the image of the Périgord. Information: +33 5 53 30 44 05 - www.perigordnoir-valleedordogne.com

| 53 SHORT STAYS AND EXCURSIONS

Enjoy the Périgord We have more than 2500 offers of accommodation to help you have the very best holiday. www.dordogne-perigord-tourisme.fr

Nature and luxury Exceptional villages

GUIDED VISIT OF THE CHÂTEAU DE MILANDES GUIDED VISIT OF SARLAT

Known world-wide thanks In the town centre, the Saint-Marie to Josephine Baker! Church, renovated by the architect Lunch in the château’s restaurant. Jean Nouvel, today houses the covered food-market. Walk through the gardens of Marqueyssac in Vézac, a classified Lunch. site, both romantic and picturesque, Guided visit on board the Domme with more than six kilometres of Express small train, to discover, shaded paths, bordered by 150 000 in a most relaxed way, the richness sculpted, centenary boxwood bushes. of Domme’s built heritage. River-trip on a “gabare” River-trip on a “gabare” (flat-bottomed © Laugery Bordeaux (flat-bottomed boat). Dordogne © CDT boat) with commentary. From 55€/person – 20 people minimum From 48€/person – 20 people minimum Information/reservations: +33 5 53 35 71 22 Information/reservations: +33 5 53 35 71 22 [email protected] [email protected]

54 | THE DORDOGNE VALLEY

Land Sarlat A journey to the very source of savours and tastes ACCROCHE. Accroche

Medieval city of Sarlat and the market AMBASSADOR © Eric Corlay © Eric

FERNANDO COSTA

METAL SCULPTOR

The Sarlat area was the place of refuge where Fernando Costa’s parents had ﬂed to and where he grew up, between his father’s stone-cutting workshop and his own dreams of becoming an artist. In fact he became a ship-steward instead and travelled around the IN SARLAT world before coming back to Calviac-en-Perigord, where he now lives and THE ITINERARY sculpts metal panels, inspired by the great OF A GIFTED ﬁgures in history and his own Périgord friends. CHILD Sarlat, as a town of theatre and history, has always attracted artists of all kinds. Jean Nouvel, a modern French architect, says he caught the “virus of architecture” there. Still today, many artists such as Fernando Costa, and other painters, sculptors or engravers have

58 | LAND OF SARLAT is raw material comes as But artist is not a "serious" profession and Fer- much from the road-signs nando Costa had to follow in the footsteps of he gets from the County his older brothers, all of whom were working Roads Department as in the prestigious hotels of Sarlat. His life was

from the life-stories set out before him, and he would go on to ho- © Loïc Mazalrey of those around him, tel school, then to work in the grand establi- stories he listens to most shments around France, before embarking on passionately. From these two very personal the passenger ship Queen Elizabeth II. mediums, Fernando Costa composes metal

H © Loïc Mazalrey panels, as if they were telling the stories of FROM LOS ANGELES TO SARLAT people’s lives, with all their changes in direc- His life changed during a stay in Los Ange- tion, the one-way streets, the speed limits and les, when he saw a family having a picnic on lightening accelerations. As an artist, he has a a makeshift table made up of two rocks and… love for others and for recycling. “I love the a road-sign! For Fernando Costa, this was the different routes and stories in a person’s life,” clincher. “Suddenly, everyone began talking he says, “especially when these stories are told and having fun around this table. And I saw with sincerity.” people communicating. That day, in 1998, I These life-routes he builds and marks out swopped my smart uniform for blue overalls. with road-signs. For twenty years now, Fer- I was 27 years old… but the desire to create nando Costa has been collecting, cutting, had never left me.” welding and re-assembling metal plaques, He returned home to Sarlat and began to re-inventing in metal the destinies of his search for road-signs. He used to haunt the heroes : Simone Veil, Josephine Baker, the Roads Department dumps to try to retrieve Beatles or more recently Sarlat’s 235 WW1 whatever the State no longer wanted. A black- soldiers, known as “poilus”, that he represents smith, Rene Peyrodes, opened the doors of using objects that actually belonged to them : helmets, bayonets, medals, etc. Today, this local boy has become a major fi- “The authentic words of local people gure in contemporary art, a success story that had seemed unattainable for this son of a Por- are a constant source of inspiration to tuguese immigrant. me. And when I say that I come from SARLAT, LAND OF SOLIDARITY “In 1968, my father fled Salazar’s dicta- Sarlat, it is like some sort of passport torship. He left Porto on foot, crossed the Py- renees and settled near Sarlat. A year later he that opens people’s hearts to me” went back to fetch my mother and brothers. A chain of solidarity was set up for them his workshop in Souillac to him. There, Fer- and the local inhabitants taught them the nando Costa learned the tricks of the trade. French language and all about French food. His life was difficult, but slowly the young Here, they found a place of true hospitality,” artist learned the art of metal, and in 2005, he says. Born in the early seventies in Sarlat, he was invited to exhibit in Paris. In great tre- Fernando Costa spent his childhood in his pidation, he travelled to the capital. All 26 of father’s workshop. His father was a stone ma- his works sold in less than an hour. And after son but at weekends he would sculpt stone to that? A whirlwind of exhibitions, journalists make objects for his family. “I loved watching and wonderful encounters. Today Fernan- ATELIER him, I used to pass him the tools. I owe my do Costa exhibits all over France and in the FERNANDO love for hard work to him,” he adds. European capitals but he remains profoundly COSTA His first encounter with art took place later attached to the land of his birth. in his life. Fernando Costa was 17 when, du- “When I say that I come from Sarlat, it is like Au lieu dit Fonnoyer ring a school-trip to Paris, he discovered the some sort of passport that opens people’s 24370 Calviac- artworks by Cesar at the Georges Pompidou hearts to me.” In his studio, an old tobac- en-Périgord Centre. co-drying shed converted into his workshop, +33 6 94 09 42 71. “I had always imagined that artists were these which doubles up as a place to stock his work unattainable figures. But there I found this and a gallery, he cheerfully welcomes the flow strange artist, son of an immigrant, like me, of visitors who come to admire his work. But, who just seemed to be playing with metal and be warned, Fernando Costa is unstoppable having fun crushing cars. Suddenly a whole when he begins to talk about art, or the artist world of possibilities opened up before me.” Cesar, or Simone Veil… or cycling.

| 59 LOCAL PERSONALITIES

JEAN-LUC AUBARBIER TIME- TRAVELLER ©Loïc Malzarey

have stopped longing to French resistance during WWII. When he be somewhere else. This was unfaithful to her, she denounced him sentence by André Breton to the Gestapo. This true story, “Les Dé- sums me up pretty well. I mons de Philomène”, published in 2003, was born in Sarlat and I was his first book. Since then, Jean-Luc still live there. It is where Aubarbier has been exploring the past mys- I grew up, surrounded by teries of the Périgord, setting his intrigues the living (hi)story of my grand-parents in the time of the Knights Templar or in the as well Ias the stories told by the caves Cathar country-side, delving deep into the “or the medieval castles of the Dordogne mysteries of witchcraft or the legends sur- Valley. When I was a child, history was rounding the Illuminati. my play-ground. Today it has become my For this pure-bred Sarlat inhabitant, the ground of exploration, my way of travel- Périgord offers a fantastic setting for telling ling”, confides Jean-Luc Aubarbier. stories. His fictional heros, Pierre Cavaignac and Marjolaine Karadec, led their investiga- tions around the Chateau de Commarque, “When I was a this fascinating fortress, witness to the he- roic deeds of knights and their chivalry. child, history was “Historical knowledge is what feeds me, but to tell a story well, you have to stop using my play-ground. your head. Writing is the work of an actor and of incarnation. You can only write well Today it has with your body. That was the great lesson Montaigne taught us.” says Jean-Luc Au- become my ground barbier who has just written an essay on Michel de Montaigne, the Périgord philo- of exploration, my sopher. “In the middle of the Wars of Re- ligion, Montaigne was defending ideas of way of travelling” tolerance and he dreamed of a society with freedom of religious practice and thinking. Passionate about history and literature, he I don’t know if there was a Périgord School ran the bookshop, Majuscule, in Sarlat for of Philosophy, but this kind of humanism is a long time with his sister, Genevieve Binet. definitely from here.” Today he dedicates all his time to writing historical novels, as well as crime/detec- tive stories and tourist guide-books. His best-seller “Aimer le Périgord”, a historical guide-book about the remarkable sites of the region, has been translated into four languages. Even though history with a capital ‘H’ is "LE CHEVALIER a constant source of inspiration for him, DU SOLEIL" there are times when reality is better than fiction. Like the life of the Périgord nun by Jean-Luc Aubarbier,

Photos Loïc Malzarey dit Loïc Malzarey Photos who was in love with a priest engaged in the published by éditions De Borée.

60 | LAND OF SARLAT TOURIST SITES

CARLUX GARE DOISNEAU Few people know that, in 1939, Robert Doisneau fell in love with the Dordogne, and then photographed it over the next thirty years. The train station in Carlux has become the only space in the Périgord fully dedicated to photography and it has been re- named Gare Robert Doisneau. It highlights this little-known part of Doisneau’s work and his love for this region. Opened in April 2018, the station now hosts the Tourist Office, a permanent exhibition, a photo lab and a gallery for temporary exhibitions. The photographs from the Robert Doisneau Studio were selected by his daughters, printed by his official printer and the hanging of the photos was organised around themes dear to Doisneau’s heart. The “Congés payés” room shows photos in the same vein as the one taken of his wife and friends in 1939 on the platform of the Carlux station. That photo was the genesis of the whole project. The second room is more ethnographic and documents the rural life in the Dordogne and the Lot between the 1940s and the 1970s, using, as a basis, the work by Romain Bondonneau, author of the book “Doisneau et la Dordogne”. The photo lab is dedicated to technical evolutions in photography, from the Rollei- flex that Doisneau so loved to the smartphone today. Information: www.lagare-robertdoisneau.com © Sandrine Mercèdre

VILLE D’ART CHÂTEAU ET D’HISTOIRE Anger © Olivier DE FÉNELON The major part of the François de Salignac de monuments in Sarlat are la Mothe-Fénelon was listed or classiﬁed as born in this château that Historical Monuments. The subtly mixes the warrior ancient church restored spirit of the Middle Ages by the architect, Jean with the elegance of the Nouvel, today shelters the Renaissance period. It covered food-market. Take has a collection of arms the panoramic lift up to and armour, furniture and the bell-tower for a very objects of art from the 15th unique experience. to the 18th centuries. EYRIGNAC AND SARLAT ITS GARDENS SAINTE-MONDANE +33 5 53 31 45 45 These exceptional gardens +33 5 53 29 81 45 www.sarlat-tourisme.com are one of the best www.chateau-fenelon.fr examples of topiary art in France. A unique collection of more than 300 different forms of sculpted plants and 50 000 yew-trees, boxwood and hornbeams, planted in the seven, progressively colourful, vegetal worlds. SALIGNAC- EYVIGUES +33 5 53 28 99 71 www.eyrignac.com © Jonathan Barbot de Fénelon © Château

| 61 COMING EVENTS

SARLAT FEST’OIE EARLY MARCH The reputation of the Périgord as a land of gastronomy is well established. With its remarkable local produce and savoury specialities, it is a paradise for gourmet food-lovers. The goose and, in particular, its famous foie gras, is celebrated every year during the festival Fest’oie. On the ﬁrst weekend of March, visitors and locals come to Sarlat to eat and drink, but also to discover goose-breeding and how to cook goose-meat. There are competitions of meat-cutting, cooking workshops, product-tasting and street markets, all to the sound of La Banda music, and which culminate in the climax of the event ; a gargantuan banquet on the Sunday, where more than 800 people come together to enjoy a meal of 15 courses, all using goose-meat as the basic ingredient. Stomachs be warned! +33 5 53 31 45 45 Information: www.sarlat-tourisme.com © Fest’oie

FARMERS’ SARLAT AROUND FÉNELON SALIGNAC- SARLAT MARKETS TRUFFLE AND SUMMER EYVIGUES FILM FESTIVAL Whether it is in the evening for a festive meal with friends, or CULINARY IN FÉNELON OLDEN-DAY MID-NOVEMBER during the day to top up your ARTS FESTIVAL JULY - AUGUST CRAFTS Actors and film-makers come shopping with good-quality MID-JANUARY Regular walking tours and to present their films during FESTIVAL this festival that has become produce, the Dordogne For a week-end, the town visits with the themes of END OF JULY - major in the French cinema farmers and artisans welcome is taken over by the refined nature, heritage, traditions, EARLY AUGUST landscape. you to their street markets savour of foie gras and the local savoir-faire and One of the best olden-day all year long, where they subtle aroma of truffles. more. You will meet our +33 5 53 31 04 39 festivals in Dordogne with a will help you to discover the Numerous gourmet activities. local performers, artisans, or +33 5 53 29 18 13 specialities of the Périgord. producers, story-tellers. different theme every year. www.festivaldufilmdesarlat.com +33 5 53 31 45 45 +33 5 53 28 81 93 www.ac-foiegras-truffe.com Reservations: +33 5 53 59 10 70 www.vieux-metiers.case- salignac.fr SARLAT AROUND FÉNELON SARLAT AROUND FÉNELON CHRISTMAS TOUR MARKET OF THE MILLS TOUR OF DECEMBER APRIL THE VILLAGES Come and enjoy the festive Themed walking tours with OCTOBER Christmas Village, second a wide range of activities for A weekend of walking tours to biggest in Aquitaine, with children and adults including discover the terroir products in almost 50 chalets offering visits to mills, demonstrations These farmers’ markets are the villages surrounding Fenelon. their wares. easily identified by their logo on flour-making, a walk with and conform to the terms of a story-teller, “Walk for your Lacrampette © Marcel Reservations: +33 5 53 31 45 45 a charter that requires that heart” walks and more. +33 5 53 59 10 70 THEATRE www.larondedesvillages.com all produce presented in the +33 5 53 59 10 70 markets originates directly www.larondedesmoulins.fr ARTS FESTIVAL and exclusively from local JULY - AUGUST farmers and breeders. SARLAT The oldest theatre festival Dates and further information after Avignon with open air may be found on: “TERROIR” performances, in the very www.marches-producteurs.com DAYS heart of the historic centre of de Fénelon Pays © OT ASCENSION WEEKEND Sarlat. The town centre is taken over +33 5 53 31 10 83 by local producers. Product- www.festival-theatre-sarlat.com tasting and entertainment in a very festive ambiance. +33 5 53 31 45 45

62 | LAND OF SARLAT SHORT STAYS AND EXCURSIONS

Enjoy the Périgord We have more than 2 500 offers of accommodation to help you have the very best holiday. www.dordogne-perigord-tourisme.fr

Château and village Art and history

SARLAT DORDOGNE VALLEY

In the company of a guide-lecturer, you will discover Sarlat, “Ville d’art Guided visit of Sarlat. In the town © FDTP et d’histoire” and the Dordogne centre, the Saint-Marie Church, Valley with its “Plus beaux villages renovated by the architect, Jean de France”, like La Roque-Gageac, Nouvel, today houses the covered where you will enjoy a river-trip on food-market. a “gabare” (ﬂat-bottomed boat), or Lunch. Beynac, small medieval village with Visit to the château de Castelnaud, its fortiﬁed castle. You will lodge in a medieval fortress. a 3-star hotel and taste Périgord cuisine. © FDTP

From 44€/person – 20 people minimum Two days/one night in 3-star hotel. From 154€ per person. 20 people minimum. Information/reservations: +33 5 53 35 71 22 Information/reservations: +33 5 53 31 45 43 [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]

TASTE AND BUY LOCAL PRODUCTS

| 63 Land Bergerac Vineyards and Bastides, in the foot-steps of Montaigne and Cyrano Château and vineyard of Monbazillac AMBASSADOR

WHEN THE BERGERAC AREA REVEALS ITS CYCLING SECRETS As Edmond Rostand wrote, “Bergerac has both the © Loic Mazalrey panache of a wine-growing town and the gentle, JEAN-PAUL green shades of evening time on the Dordogne River”. And even if Cyrano never actually lived BOURGEOIS there, the town is very proud of its certiﬁed label “Ville d’art et d’histoire” MANAGER OF APOLO CYCLES AND TREASURER OF THE BERGERAC TOURIST OFFICE

After his studies in business in Bordeaux and a long career in the automobile industry, Jean-Paul Bourgeois made the decision to come back to the Dordogne and set up a company of bicycle rentals. In his opinion, there is nothing better than cycling to discover the secrets of the Bergerac area, and you can always ﬁnd just the ride you are looking for. © Pays de Bergerac © Pays

66 | LAND OF BERGERAC riss-crossed by a multi- Durer, as well as an excellent wine-cellar tude of small roads and and the archives of the wars of religion. You hilly lanes, the best way can taste a glass of the excellent Monbazil- to discover the charm lac wine before heading towards the wine- of the Bergerac country- growing village of Colombier, where the side is on a bicycle. You 12th century church offers a splendid view can follow the meanders over the surrounding vineyards. Colombier of the Dordogne River to discover the pa- is also home to the beautiful chateau de la Cnoramic views over the beautiful vineyards, Jaubertie, which, although privately-owned the martime-pine and oak forests and the today, was the background for the love-sto- local produce markets. Around Bergerac, ry between King Henri IV and the lovely the diversity of wild landscapes and me- Gabrielle d’Estrée in the 16th century. dieval architecture is the setting for the Before you cycle back into Bergerac, you legendary gascon conviviality. It is no coin- could go by the château de Bridoire, in its cidence that the Issigeac street market was perfect fairy-tale setting, where life-sized voted the best street market in Aquitaine. games will plunge you back into the gran- “Far from the touristic effervescence of diose times of the medieval knights. Both Sarlat, the Bergerac area is very calm, even young and old will enjoy the fun. in mid-summer. Here, the tourists, from all around the world, can enjoy the quiet IN THE QUIET OF THE FORESTS of our countryside, the authenticity of our The cycle route leaves Bergerac and climbs © Loic Mazalrey street markets and the medieval culture slowly up to the village of Lembras, across of our bastide towns,” explains Jean-Paul the Pecharmant vine-yards, with their ro- Bougeois. bust, full-bodied wines. The path winds through hills and dales of maritime pines, MADE-TO-MEASURE EXCURSIONS As well as being the manager of Apolo Cycles “Cycling is freedom! On a bike, you since the early 2000s, Jean-Paul Bougeois ran the Bergerac Tourist Office for nine can explore the narrow lanes, stop years. Today, he is the treasurer there, and has founded a bike-rental company which to eat somewhere, visit a cave or a offers made-to-measure trips for visitors. “Cycling is freedom! Whether you are an chateau or perhaps swim in the pure experienced cyclist or a complete beginner, our rides adapt to your every wish! On a waters of the Dordogne River” bike, you have so much choice, you can discover the area, or sit and listen to birdsongs, oaks and hornbeam trees. The Landes fo- when the kings of England and the Dukes or just enjoy the smells of nature, explore rest, in the northwest of the Bergerac area is of Aquitaine rivalled in their quest for in- the tiny paths, stop to eat somewhere, visit home to the common hawk and the short- fluence over the region. All these villages, an underground cave or a chateau or pe- toed eagle as well as to the very rare Nor- often called “new towns” at the time, pro- rhaps swim in the pure waters of the Dor- thern Goshawk. The wooded lanes will take foundly changed the lives of the medieval dogne River,” says Jean-Paul Bourgeois. you to the village of Queyssac, where you peasant farmers and craftsmen, and still So, whether you are a lover of history, of should definitely stop to eat in the gourmet today claim to have a certain “art de vivre”, nature or of gastronomy, there is a cycling Bistrot du Presbytère, before winding your with their torchlight night walks and arts route especially made for you. way back to Bergerac through the rows of and crafts fairs. vines. ON THE WINE ROUTE As you cycle out of Bergerac, the wine- ON THE PATHS OF HISTORY growing capital of the Périgord, you could Those who love history will choose the ride towards the chateau de Monbazillac, route through the bastide towns and will one of the most famous sweet wines in head towards the medieval villages, some of APOLO France. Classified as a national historic mo- which have received the certification “Plus nument, this emblematic chateau has been beaux villages de France”, such as Belves, CYCLES watching over the Bergerac vineyards since Saint-Avit-Sénieur or the bastide towns the end of the 16th century. Owned by a of Beaumont and Monpazier. The route, +33 6 20 64 59 25 wine-cooperative since 1960, the chateau is dotted with church bell-towers, lovely Pé- +33 5 53 57 72 08 regularly under restoration and also houses rigordine houses and rivers, truly offers a www.apolo-cycles.com/ the extraordinary engravings by Albrecht step back to the time of the 100-Year War, accueilfrancais.html

| 67 LOCAL PERSONALITIES

XAVIER PRÉVOST A LIFE AS FREE AS RUNNING WATER © Loïc Mazalrey

hat is his stron- says. “And every day, I’m like a kid in front gest memory? A of the Christmas tree... I never know what 2,4 metres catfish I’m going to find in my nets... it’s always a weighing 80 kilo- surprise!” grams. It was his Even if sometimes the conditions are harsh, first catch, when and he must face bad weather, floods, icy he was an appren- waters or wooden logs carried down the tice, learning his trade with a professional. river in winter by rapids, Xavier Prévost WWas it a sign of his destiny? A message sent would not swop places with anyone. This to the young man by the mysterious Dor- young fisherman grew up in Creysse, a dogne River? What is sure is that Xavier small, medieval jewel of a village, on the Prévost came to understand the important banks of the Dordogne River. And, as far role that fishermen play in maintaining the back as he can remember, he has always

Photos Loïc Mazalrey Photos biodiversity of rivers. loved fishing. “The river fascinates me,” he says, “I can spend hours just watching it. Here the countryside has remained wild “The river and it changes with the seasons. On the river, I see herons and cormorants. Some- fascinates times, in the quiet of dawn, I see deer cros- sing the woods. On my boat, I am my own me. Here the master. I feel free,” he explains. At the end of each morning, Xavier Pré- countryside has vost docks his boat in the small harbor in Creysse. As a member of a local Fisher- remained wild and men’s association, he can sell his fish directly to the local restaurants. And on Satur- changes with the day mornings, he never misses the Creysse street market. seasons. From the Although he loves being a local producer and being responsible for selling his fresh river, I see herons, fish himself, his greatest pleasure remains his life on the river... a pleasure he some- cormorants and times shares with his friends. “I love taking them on the boat with me, and seeing deer. It is magical” them smile as they watch the sun rise, or set, over the river. Then, they begin to At only 25 years old, Xavier Prévost is to- understand…’’ day a professional fisherman. Every day, as the sun rises, come rain, wind or hail, he boards his flat-bottomed boat to pull in the nets he cast out the night before. “I fish mainly pike and catfish, as well as bream, barbel, pike-perch and river-perch”, he

68 | LAND OF BERGERAC TOURIST SITES

LE BUISSON-DE-CADOUIN GROTTES DE MAXANGE The story of Maxange is a bit like a fairy-tale. On August 15th 2000, Angel Caballero was working in his stone quarry, digging, when suddenly a cliff-face collapsed, leaving a gaping hole… which turned out to be the entrance to a cave. Angel called the expert-geologists who were astounded by the exceptional pro- fusion of rare concretions, called excentics, that they found in the cave. The decision was made to do the necessary work to receive visitors and to open it to the public in 2003. The Grottes de Maxange derives its name from the first names of Angel and of his father, Maxime, the founder of the quarry. Today, the cave receives as many as 30 000 visitors annually, but this does not prevent the Caballero family from taking the time to welcome and talk to each visitor, during the 45-minute guided visit. This warm welcome has led to the site, already classified as a heritage site with two stars in the Michelin Guide, being awarded the State certification of “Qualité Tourisme”. The beauty of the concretions that are tens of thousands of years old, the extraordinary concen- tration of excentrics, unequalled in the world, as well as the quality of the warm welcome by the family surely makes Maxange Cave one of the wonders of the Périgord Pourpre. Information: +33 5 53 23 42 80 lesgrottesdemaxange.com © Emilie Drouinaud © Emilie Crédit © Pays de Bergerac, Joffrey Revoy Joffrey de Bergerac, © Pays © Sémitour Périgord - Dan Courtice - Dan © Sémitour Périgord © Sémitour Périgord - Dan Courtice - Dan © Sémitour Périgord MAISON DES VINS CHÂTEAU © CD 24 - Denis Nidos - Denis © CD 24 Crédit The ‘House of Wines’ in DE BIRON ABBAYE

Bergerac is in the Récol- MICHEL-DE- Home to one of the Louzon - Art & Décoration © Philippe DE CADOUIN © Bastideum de Monpazier © Bastideum lets Cloister, a magnificent Crédit MONTAIGNE The abbey is classified four Périgord baronies, CHÂTEAU ensemble of monastic BASTIDEUM CHÂTEAU this fortified castle has Unesco World Heritage as th DE BRIDOIRE architecture from the 17 AND TOWER undergone many archi- one of the stop-overs on century. There you will Delve into the history of the This 15th century Historical the Santiago de Compos- bastide towns and discover The visit allows you to soak tectural changes over the find all the information you centuries. It has served as Monument is in the heart tella pilgrimage route. It is these “new” medieval up the spirit of this famous need to go out and meet décor to several films and of the Monbazillac vine- a pure master-piece with towns in a modern, fun and French philosopher. It was our local wine-growers. today houses exhibitions of yards. Come and discover its cloister in the flam- interactive way: smartphone here that de Montaigne, www.vins-bergeracduras.fr contemporary art. the 15 furnished rooms as boyant gothic architectural or augmented reality visits, the great humanist, wrote well as the 100 olden-day style. 3D exhibitions, olden-day his “Essays” between BIRON wooden games for all games, medieval garden. CADOUIN 1571 and 1592. +33 5 53 63 13 39 ages, to be found both MONPAZIER www.chateau-biron.fr inside and outside. +33 5 53 63 36 28 SAINT-MICHEL- www.cloitre-cadouin.fr +33 5 53 57 12 12 DE-MONTAIGNE RIBAGNAC www.bastideum.fr +33 5 53 58 63 93 +33 5 53 58 11 74 www.chateau-montaigne.com www.chateaudebridoire.com

| 69 COMING EVENTS

BERGERAC A MUSICAL SUMMER IN BERGERAC LATE JULY - EARLY AUGUST Since it began in 1988, Bergerac’s summer musical programme has proclaimed its originality. Though its founder, Marc Chisson, plays the saxophone and the double bass, he wanted to enrich the musical programme with dance, theatre and cinema. As a transdisciplinary festival, it mixes new performers with more experienced ones, while keeping it aimed at the general public, because, as Marc Chisson explains, “we must offer the best with the widest possible range”. This atypical festival is also the result of a love story with the Dordogne and performances are given in places of heritage in and around Berge- rac. Thus, abbeys, bastide towns and chateaux become the venues for unique experiences for the artists and the 9000 festival-goers, local residents, regional visitors and tourists from all over France and beyond, who cross paths each summer. Information: www.festivalbergerac.com © Jeremy Coachman

FARMERS’ PAYS DE THE VILLAGE MARKETS BERGERAC MOLIÈRES Whether it is in the evening for a festive meal with friends, or JAZZ IN THE MOLIÈRES during the day to top up your shopping with good-quality CELLARS EN SCÈNE produce, the Dordogne MARCH TO NOVEMBER FESTIVAL farmers and artisans welcome Jazz concerts held SEPTEMBER you to their street markets on wine-growing estates. Amateur and professional all year long, where they www.jazzpourpre.com theatre, with performances in will help you to discover the the centre of the bastide town. specialities of the Périgord. MONPAZIER Lumière © Quartiers www.molieresenscene.org ARTS AND SAINT-AVIT-SÉNIEUR BERGERAC CRAFTS FAIR AROUND MURMURES DE SAINT-AVIT AND BERGERAC JUNE TO SEPTEMBER SURROUNDINGS As night falls, the abbey unveils its past and its mysteries, in a END OF MAY - LA VINATA BEGINNING OF JUNE décor of lights and images, sounds and music. Free entry and enjoy your walkabout... END OF MAY - Come and see the work of BEGINNING OF JUNE more than 50 artists and ISSIGEAC BOSSET craftsmen and women in the Two fun days in a relaxed These farmers’ markets are centre of Monpazier’s bastide BASKET- BEAU C’EST atmosphere with wine easily identiﬁed by their logo town. An event of top-quality activities in the heart of the and conform to the terms of arts and crafts in one of the MAKING AND FESTIVAL old city centre of Bergerac a charter that requires that must-see historical sites of WEAVING FAIR AUGUST and an Open Day in the all produce presented in the the Bergerac region. JULY Concerts (rock, reggae, Vineyards. markets originates directly electro music) theatre. +33 5 53 57 03 11 and exclusively from local +33 5 53 27 30 09 Come and discover the www.asso-passerelles.fr farmers and breeders. [email protected] techniques of wicker basket- making. You will also ﬁnd a Dates and further information BERGERAC collection of traditional and LALINDE may be found on: contemporary baskets and www.marches-producteurs.com AND AROUND objects. Free workshops for LIRE EN JAZZ POURPRE your children to learn about BASTIDE basket-making. AUGUST MAY +33 5 53 58 79 62 Literature festival with writers Jazz concerts and other present, reading workshops, musical and cultural events exhibitions, round tables, music, will animate the month of May. children’s programme and more. www.jazzpourpre.com www.festival-lireenbastides- lalinde.com

70 | LAND OF BERGERAC SHORT STAYS AND EXCURSIONS

Enjoy the Périgord We have more than 2500 offers of accommodation to help you have the very best holiday. www.dordogne-perigord-tourisme.fr

In the land of Cyrano The 100 % wine route

BERGERAC BERGERAC

Guided visit of Bergerac, on the Amateurs of gourmet wining and banks of the Dordogne River, with dining, this offer is for you! On its majestic “gabares”(ﬂat-botto- the menu: two wine estates for med boats) that animate the river wine tasting, a wine-growers light daily, its magniﬁcent town-centre OTBSD lunch, an excellent dinner in a great of Renaissance architecture, a restaurant, a river trip on a “gabare” town where the phantom of Cyrano (falt-bottomed boat), a visit to the roams… although Cyrano never château de Monbazillac, two nights, actually poked his big nose into this breakfast included, in a guest house charming town! or a 3- or 4-star hotel. © CD 24 - Denis Nidos - Denis © CD 24 - Grasseau © M.-C.

Lunch. Visit of the château de Monbazillac with its 16th century Renaissance architecture. 3 days/ 2 nights. From 194€ per person. From 44€/person – 20 people minimum. Information/reservations: +33 5 53 57 03 11 Information/reservations: +33 5 53 35 71 22 [email protected] [email protected] LEISURE ACTIVITIES

GURSON TRÉMOLAT RECREATIONAL BOATING CLUB TheGardens PARK Set on the Dordogne River, the boating club in Trémolat is a main venue for water-sports of in the Périgord: fishing, water-skiing, wind-surfing, Sardy canoeing as well as the usual summer activities. The water- skiing school trains children as well as offering courses at beginners, advanced © CD 24 - Denis Nidos - Denis © CD 24 or competition levels in The boating lake and park water-skiing, wake-boarding caters for the whole family and disability sports. All and has something for the trainers have full state everyone. Choose from a qualifications. multitude of activities: water +33 5 53 02 02 80 sports, beach volley-ball, fishing, walking and hiking, kids playgrounds. For your family accommodation, there is a camp-site as well as self-catering cottages to rent, all near the water and the activities. Supervised swimming from mid-June to September 1st. +33 5 53 82 53 15 © CDT Dordogne © CDT

| 71 ACCOMMODATION THE DRONNE VALLEY HOTELS IN PÉRIGORD VERT

LE MOULIN DE L’ABBAYE **** BRANTÔME The Moulin de l’Abbaye offers a stay in a truly sumptuous setting with discovery of local gastronomy. The rooms are cosy, the restaurant gourmet, the terrace on the edge of the water simply sublime. Add to that, the two near-by bistros Au fil de l’eau and Au fil du temps, both of which offer a choice of dishes in harmony with the tradition of Périgord cuisine. +33 5 53 05 80 22 © Les Jardins de Brantôme www.moulinabbaye.com

LES JARDINS DE BRANTÔME *** BRANTÔME This 18th century postal relay station, only two minutes on foot from the centre of Brantôme, has been renovated into a charming, little hotel that elegantly mixes old and contemporary. The rooms, each with a terrace or balcony, are comfortable and cosy, using natural materials such as linen, sisal or chestnut wood for the parquet floor. One room has a fire-place. Breakfast is big... and made up of local and home-made products. Swimming-pool. +33 5 53 05 88 16 www.lesjardinsdebrantome.com © Yoan Chevojon © Yoan

LE MOULIN DE VIGONAC ****

© Moulin de Vigonac © Moulin BRANTÔME This 16th century mill at the doors to Brantôme, “the Venice of the Périgord”, will give you a very warm welcome and awaken your senses. The elegant and tastefully-decorated rooms are an invitation to rest and relax in this exceptionally tranquil environment, with its park on the edge of the Dronne River. It is a veritable hymn to nature, so be charmed by the serenity of it all… and enjoy the gourmet restaurant. +33 5 53 05 87 59 www.moulindevigonac.com

72 | ACCOMMODATION HOLIDAY RENTALS AND BED & BREAKFAST

CHÂTEAU DE LANNET LA CHAPELLE-MONTMOREAU Bed and Breakfast - 5 rooms/ 10 people Not far from Brantôme, Guillaume and Constantin will be happy to share their corner of the Périgord Vert with you. In the château, the five charming and elegantly- decorated rooms, as well as the two large lounges, invite you to relax and rest, while the 4-hectare park will get you back to nature. On the programme: romanticism and serenity. +33 6 49 88 13 50

© Château de Lannet © Château www.chateau-de-lannet.fr LES DEUX ABBESSES EN VERT MAREUIL-SUR-BELLE In the heart of a 40-hectare property, surrounded by pure-bred Arabian horses, you will feel most welcome in these Bed and Breakfast rooms in La Grande Maison and our comfortable self-catering lodging in the converted barn, Le Terrier des lapins. Heated swimming-pool. Lake. +33 6 76 82 85 10 www.lesdeuxabbessesenvert.fr © Maison Fleurie © Maison

MAISON FLEURIE BRANTÔME Bed and Breakfast. Carol Robinson invites you into her 19th century home just two minutes from the centre of Brantôme, with easy access to the restaurants and boutiques, the Abbey and the River Dronne. The bedrooms are cosy and the breakfasts are very generous, served among the flowers in the inside court-yard when the weather is good. Swimming-pool. © Michel Dartenset © Michel +33 5 53 35 17 04 or +33 6 99 48 37 04 LE PUY DU REY SIORAC-DE-RIBÉRAC Bed and Breakfast. Clévacances - (3 keys) four people Tranquility, rest and serenity in this very pleasant, renovated, 19th century stone farm-house with a big shady garden. There is a family suite with two bedrooms and a covered terrace. The very generous breakfast of home-made products will be served at the time you prefer, in the dining- room or out on the terrace. Open all year-long. Hiking paths near-by. +33 6 74 43 74 78 www.lepuydurey.fr © CLV 24 © CLV

| 73 ACCOMMODATION THE DRONNE VALLEY CAMPING IN PÉRIGORD VERT

LA DORDOGNE VERTE *** SAINT-AULAYE-PUYMANGOU In the heart of Périgord Vert, our family campsite, on a very human scale, welcomes you into functional and comfortable accommodation. You will able to recharge your batteries by combining idleness, gastronomy, physical activities (biking, swimming, canoeing, tree climbing, hiking, fishing, etc.) and our regional culture, all within a luxuriant setting. Shared garden, barbecues, children’s playground, games, swimming pool, bar, restaurant. +33 5 53 90 62 20 www.camping-dordogneverte.fr © Campings © Campings Étangs du Plessac

ÉTANGS DU PLESSAC *** SAINT-FÉLIX-DE-BOURDEILLES In the heart of Périgord Vert, near Brantôme, our campsite offers you a holiday in the countryside on the edge of our lake. Stéphanie and Laurent welcome you from March 30th to October 15th in a friendly, family campsite. 72 spacious and individual camping-spaces await you for a quiet holiday in the heart of nature. Indoor and heated swimming pool, French bowls, children’s playground, bar, restaurant, evening entertainment, etc. +33 6 26 84 49 71 www.campingdeplessac.fr © Camping Dordogne Verte Dordogne © Camping

LE PETIT LION *** VENDOIRE Holidays at the Petit Lion is a promise of a stay like no other. In the heart of nature, the campsite has 31 large, shaded camping- spaces, quiet and family-friendly. Our self- catering cottages, wooden lodges and safari tents combine comfort and close-to-nature lifestyle. It is a real paradise for children, with playgrounds, swimming pool and paddling pool. Not to mention campfire evenings, barbecues and marshmallows: unforgettable moments! +33 5 53 91 00 74

74 | ACCOMMODATION SPECIAL GROUPS

Creating your 100% Périgord holiday More than 20 years of expertise! Book in confidence

We off er you the scenery, live and share the history that goes with it…

Ask for our catalog

Spécial Club Special groups véhicules anciens 2019-2020 Dordogne Corrèze 2019-2020 (available in french only)

www.perigord-reservation.com Tel. 00.33.5.53.35.71.22 or 00.33.5 53 35 50 33 [email protected] or [email protected] ACCOMMODATION PÉRIGORD LIMOUSIN HOTELS REGIONAL NATURE PARK

LE MOULIN DU ROC **** CHAMPAGNAC-DE-BELAIR The Moulin du Roc is a charming hotel- restaurant in a 17th century mill, near Brantôme, on the banks of the Dronne, in the heart of a wooded park. The hotel is a member of du Roc Moulin © Hôtel the Les Collectionneurs hotel chain. It has a heated outdoor swimming pool and a tennis court. The restaurant (1 star in Michelin Guide) offers a very precise cuisine that enhances the richness of Périgord products. +33 5 53 02 86 00 www.moulinduroc.com

HOSTELLERIE SAINT-JACQUES *** SAINT-SAUD-LACOUSSIÈRE The Hostellerie Saint-Jacques, a gorgeous 18th century country-residence in the heart of Périgord Vert, has been the property of the same family for three generations. Both the suites and rooms are veritable cocoons, sumptuously decorated, which open onto a terrace and large, landscaped garden. The gourmet restaurant offers a fine selection of all the flavours of the Périgord as well as seafood products. Swimming pool and jacuzzi.

© Hôtel Pélisson © Hôtel +33 5 53 56 97 21 www.hostellerie-saint-jacques.com GRAND HOTEL PELISSON *** NONTRON In the centre of Nontron, the town of France’s oldest knife, the elegant facade of the Grand Hôtel Pélisson invites you for a friendly stopover. The Grand Hotel offers a family atmosphere in this former convent, which then became a

post office relay. The 25 rooms are spacious de Saint-Jacques © Hostellerie and subtly decorated. For your taste buds, the chef combines traditional cuisine with faraway spices. Large garden and swimming pool. +33 5 53 56 11 22 www.hotel-pelisson-nontron.com

76 | ACCOMMODATION CAMPING / HOLIDAY RENTALS AND BED & BREAKFAST

L’AGRION BLEU *** SAINT-MARTIAL-DE-VALETTE Family campsite on a quiet and natural site by the river. 62 spacious, shaded or semi-shaded camping- spaces for your tents, caravans or motorhomes as well as fully-equipped mobile homes and bungalows to rent. Open all year round. Aquatic centre accessible at a special camping price. +33 5 53 56 02 04 or +33 6 30 66 25 74 www.campinglagrionbleu.com © Camping Agrion Bleu © Camping

DOMAINE DE MONTAGENET **** SAINT-MARTIAL-DE-VALETTE 6 self-catering cottages Montagenet extends over 76 hectares of park and land used for organic farming. In this exceptionally preserved, natural setting, six charming, independent and comfortable cottages have been created, renovated and decorated in a style that respects the spirit of the place and which welcomes modern and contemporary art. © Château de Savignac © Château +33 5 53 60 35 98 www.domaine-de-montagenet.com CHÂTEAU DE SAVIGNAC-LÉDRIER SAVIGNAC-LÉDRIER For over 400 years, the château was the residence of the masters of the iron-forge below: their descendant is the owner today. The château can comfortably accommodate nine people in a totally authentic décor. A haven of peace in Périgord Vert in a very historical setting. +33 6 32 25 14 72 www.chateau-savignac-ledrier.com © Domaine de Montagenet © Domaine

DOMAINE D’ESSENDIÉRAS SAINT-MÉDARD-D’EXCIDEUIL The domain extends over 360 hectares. Its two 16th and 19th century châteaux open onto exceptional views and a nine-hole golf course. Various types of accommodation are available on the property: cottages, rooms, suites, apartments and camping. Restaurant on reservation only. +33 5 53 55 34 34 www.essendieras.fr © Domaine d’Essendieras © Domaine

| 77 Bordeaux

Number One for family holidays CORRÈZE | DORDOGNE | LOT However you wish to get away from it all – fishing, visiting vineyards, off-beat holidays, enjoying nature, feeling well and relaxed, here you can discover just the right accommodation that meets your needs the best...

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More than 500 gites and bed and breakfast accommodation, either in towns or the country are available for sharing your experiences either as a family, between friends or in a crowd. ACCOMMODATION PÉRIGUEUX HOTELS AND THE ISLE VALLEY HOTEL CHÂTEAU DES REYNATS **** CHANCELADE This château, built in the middle of BELLAFORME the 19th century, is right next to Périgueux, in a 5-acre park, HOTEL SUITES near a golf course. A few yards from the castle, at the end & SPA *** of a lane lined with horse chestnut trees, L’Orangerie*** is the modern part of the hotel, with designer rooms. There is also CHAMPCEVINEL a gourmet restaurant, L’Oison, and the La Verrière bistro. Bellaforme Suites +33 5 53 03 53 59. www.chateau-hotel-perigord.com & Spa is a new © Château des Reynats concept of suites HOTEL MERCURE PÉRIGUEUX CENTRE **** © Newscope and rooms in a space for well-being and beauty, near PÉRIGUEUX Périgueux and next to Aquacap. A room For accommodation close to activities in © Hôtel Mercure Périgueux reservation does not include access to the Périgueux (cinema, theatre, street market, spa, but residents pay a lower rate. Complete Vesunna Museum, etc.), choose the Mercure relaxation, with private treatment spaces Hotel in the middle of town. The hotel (sauna, hammam, balneotherapy, etc.). has comfortable rooms with a modern +33 5 53 03 33 06 ambiance. Breakfast is served in the beautiful www.bellaforme-hotel.com room next to the Périgourdin Bar. +33 5 53 06 65 00. www.mercure.com

LA FONT DE TOUNY SAINT-RÉMY-SUR-LIDOIRE Clévacances (3 keys) - Cottage Maïs for six people and Villa Marguerite for five people These two renovated holiday cottages in the countryside are ideal for a family or friends, with a SUITES DE LA TOUR & SUITES DU THÉÂTRE shared pool. A place to relax and discover the charms PÉRIGUEUX of Périgord, its gastronomy and trail walking. In the heart of the cultural life of Périgueux, the Suites +33 6 87 86 63 13 www.gites-la-font-de-touny.com de la Tour and Suites du Théâtre will welcome you in an ambiance that is cosy, chic and relaxed, combining design and comfort. The Suites de la Tour are in an elegant townhouse in the historical centre, and the Suites du Théâtre are in a building from the 1930s. +33 5 53 53 38 68 or +33 6 77 82 07 46 www.appartements-hotels-perigueux- Welcome Hotel Mercure dordogne.suitesdelatour.fr Centre Historique

rich in mansions with captivating architecture, ﬁnely carved and

© CLV 24 © CLV decorated Renaissance mansions. Discover in this vast historical district, the Cathedral of Saint- Front, of Byzantine inspiration, built on the paths of Santiago de Compostela, the Tower of Vésone, as well as the Mataguerre Tower... Enjoy in our lounge bar our meat and cheese boards, our whole foie- The HOTEL Mercure historic Center, gras accompanied by a wine from in the heart of Périgueux, City of our beautiful region, « la nouvelle Art and history will captivate you aquitaine » with its new renovation, entrenched in its history. The decoration of the hotel is based on the theme of Lascaux which you discover from its entrance by a fresco made by MR PAILLARD the workshops of facsimiles. PÉRIGUEUX Near by the hotel, discover the sumptuous aera of the Roman Clévacances (3 keys) - five apartments for two people Empire with its numerous vestiges Charming apartments looking onto a very quiet semi- and its Gallo-Roman Vésunna Museum. pedestrian alley, near the Saint-Front Cathedral, the Gallo- Take its medieval alleys, strolling Roman ruins, the street markets, restaurants and shops. through squares (truffle market), You will find modern comfort in an old, romantic site in the heart of the capital of Périgord, “Ville d’art et d’histoire”. MERCURE PÉRIGUEUX CENTRE +33 6 89 90 51 66 7, place Francheville - 24000 Périgueux E-mail : [email protected] Tél. 05 53 06 65 00 - Email : [email protected] mercure.com - accorhotels.com

| 81 ACCOMMODATION PÉRIGUEUX CAMPING AND THE ISLE VALLEY

LE PARADOU *** PARCOUL Tourism class camping site, with 70 chalet rentals and

© Camping Offrerie © Camping 30 caravan/camping-spaces. It also has a covered, heated pool, a lake with a sandy beach, a fishing pond and a water park with a slide. Other activities include a snack bar with a billiard table, French bowls and a games room. New and second-hand mobile homes are available on rented sites. Meals can be organised for groups. +33 5 53 91 42 78 www.camping-paradou.com

L’OFFRERIE **** ROUFFIGNAC-SAINT-CERNIN-DE-REILHAC Come and “green” yourself in this small family camping site in the heart of Périgord Noir, in the Vézère Valley between Sarlat and Périgueux. We will share with you our authentic, good-humoured way of life. Be charmed by the originality of our accommodation, which includes tree-houses cabins, eco-structures and mobile homes. +33 5 53 35 33 26 www.camping-ferme-offrerie.com © Le Paradou

LA CIGALINE *** MONTPON-MÉNESTÉROL This camping site with 110 spaces, between the Gironde and the Périgord, is ideally situated to visit this beautiful region. You will be able to choose between a mobile home for 4, 6 or 8 people, a more quirky accommodation, like a tent lodge or “coco sweet”pod, or a camping space. La Cigaline will welcome you in a family atmosphere from April to September in its unique spot on the banks of the Isle River. A heated pool is available from May to September. +33 5 53 80 22 16

82 | ACCOMMODATION LASCAUX HOTELS AND THE VÉZÈRE VALLEY

LES GLYCINES & SPA **** © Château de la Fleunie © Château LES EYZIES-DE-TAYAC The hotel Les Glycines & Spa, a Les Collectionneurs hotel, is situated in the heart of the Vézère Valley. With two restaurants (the gourmet Le 1862 and Le Bistro), it is a haven of peace, with its magnificent 6-acre park and a pool. The hotel also has eco-lodges and a spa, relaxation and well-being space, with sauna, hammam, counter-current pool and massage. +33 5 53 06 97 07 www.les-glycines-dordogne.com

CHÂTEAU LA FLEUNIE **** CONDAT-SUR-VÉZÈRE La Fleunie Castle, built between the 12th and 15th

centuries, sits at the heart of 260 acres. It may be les Glycines © Hôtel difficult to choose among its 33 luxurious rooms: live like a prince in one of its towers or in a modern dream in the summer pavilion. You can eat in the gastronomic restaurant or the bistro. Exercise room, sauna, spa, pool, tennis courts: sports and gastronomy combine well here. +33 5 53 51 32 74. www.lafleunie.com/

HÔTEL DE BOUILHAC **** MONTIGNAC-LASCAUX This 17th-century hotel is a historical monument near the sacred Lascaux hill, on the banks of the Vézère River, the “cradle of humanity”. You will be charmed by its authentic architecture, its elegant decoration and its cosy rooms. The chef, Christophe Maury, officiates in the restaurant de Bouilhac, with gourmet dishes prepared from high-quality local products. +33 5 53 51 21 46

LA LICORNE LA MAISON DE LÉOPOLD VALOJOULX TERRASSON Bed and breakfast Clévacances Bed and Breakfast Clévacances (3 keys) - 12 people (3 keys) - 15 people Come and enjoy a stay at Valerie’s house, in the hills above Terrasson where you Discover this agreeable will find total calm and comfort. Your hostess will make you love her house, entirely property built in the 13th and restored in the Périgourdine style and she will advise you on the best places 17th centuries, ideally situated to visit around the Dorodgne. Home-made breakfasts, and a lovely pool, are waiting 4 miles from the Lascaux cave, to welcome you. in the heart of Périgord Noir. +33 6 20 62 55 78 This authentic Périgourdine www.lamaisondeleopold.com house is in a mediaeval village, with seductive calm and beauty. Isabelle will serve you a copious, varied breakfast, and you can refresh yourself in the pool. +33 6 60 43 02 87 www.licorne-lascaux.com ©CLV 24 ©CLV

84 | ACCOMMODATION by

Then taste it !

LALANDE LABORIE AURIAC-DU-PÉRIGORD Clévacances (4 keys) Situated a few minutes from the Lascaux cave, the domain comprises a manor house built in 1904, a comfortable, warm holiday cottage and cabins with a spectacular view of the valley and the #FROM THE PRODUCER forest. Other amenities for a relaxed stay include swimming pools, a hammam, a jacuzzi, a sauna and fitness equipment. TO THE PLATE WITH ONE CLICK +33 7 89 04 37 29 www.lalande-laborie.fr

terre.desaveurs

website www.terredesaveurs.com was created by and is operated by CRCAM CHARENTE-PERIGORD – 775 569 726 RCS ANGOULEME. Registered insurance broker ORIAS 07 008 428. ACCOMMODATION LASCAUX CAMPING AND THE VÉZÈRE VALLEY

LA FERME DE PERDIGAT **** LA SALVINIE *** LIMEUIL TERRASSON This camping site, in one of the most beautiful This camping site at the entry villages of France, is situated near some of to the Vézère valley and near the most important historical and cultural Lascaux IV is calm, welcoming sites of the Périgord. The site surrounds and family-friendly. The authentic 100-year-old farm buildings and camping spaces are large and has all the equipment necessary for an shady, the mobile homes have unforgettable family holiday, including a been renovated, as have the bar and restaurant, heated pool, sauna, sanitary facilities, and there is games area, activities, a kids’ club and wifi. an aquatic park with a water- +33 5 53 63 31 54 slide, balneotherapy and a www.perdigat.com paddling-pool. There is a large games space for children and adults, a bar, a snack bar and ice creams. There is direct, supervised access to the river for fishing and canoeing. +33 5 53 50 06 11 or +33 6 03 61 55 72 www.camping-salvinie.fr © Camping La Salvinie © Camping © Ferme de Perdigat © Ferme

LE VERDOYANT *** © Camping le Verdoyannt © Camping THENON Fifteen minutes from Lascaux IV, this exceptional site ensures a marvellous stay in a family atmosphere. For your comfort, we have: rental accommodation, large camping spaces and complete sanitary facilities. For entertainment, we have an aquatic park with a water-slide, a jacuzzi and an “aquatoon”, two fishing ponds, and games areas for children and adults. We also have a bar and a restaurant, with entertainment during the season. Free wifi at the bar. +33 5 53 05 20 78 www.campingleverdoyant.fr

86 | ACCOMMODATION ACCOMMODATION VALLEY HOTELS OF THE DORDOGNE

LE RELAIS DU PÉRIGORD NOIR *** L’ESPLANADE *** SIORAC-EN-PÉRIGORD DOMME The hotel-restaurant Le Relais du Périgord Noir is a large L’Esplanade, overlooking the majestic Dordogne building in cream-coloured stone, which was restored in 2013. Valley, is a family-run hotel in the extraordinary It provides high-quality services in a charming village on the fortified town of Domme. The ambiance is banks of the Dordogne River. It offers comfortable rooms welcoming. The rooms have period furniture and equipment for your well-being: a covered, heated pool, adapted to the setting. The restaurant offers an exercise room, hammam and a sauna. The restaurant fine dishes prepared from the best regional La Table du Relais offers both bistro or gourmet meals. products, with, as you eat, an incredible +33 5 53 31 60 02 panorama of the cliffs opposite and the www.relais-perigord-noir.fr river meandering its way along the valley. +33 5 53 28 31 41 www.esplanade-perigord.com © Hôtel Relais du Périgord Noir du Périgord Relais © Hôtel © Hôtel Esplanade © Hôtel

AUBERGE DE LA PETITE REINE *** SIORAC-EN-PÉRIGORD L’Auberge de la Petite Reine was established by a hotelier family in 1964 and then taken over and entirely renovated in 2011. It has 70 comfortable rooms distributed among several pavilions in a leafy park of more than 2 acres, a heated pool, tennis and volley-ball courts, various games and three restaurants run by a master chef. The quality and family atmosphere ensure a successful visit.

| 87 HOLIDAY RENTALS AND BED & BREAKFAST

LE CHATEAU DE MARAVAL CÉNAC-ET-SAINT-JULIEN Bed and breakfast Clévacances (5 keys) - eight people LE SÉCHOIR DES FONTANELLES Magnificent château, in which the owners, Anne-Marie VÉZAC and Thierry, have made a luxurious bed-and-breakfast. Clévacances (3 keys) - four people This haven of peace, with its refined decoration, offers This holiday cottage set among four well- you: a pool, a hammam and a fitness room with a known chateaux has fabulous views from jacuzzi. You might want to walk among the trees its terraces and its swimming pool. The in the park or simply sit on the magnificent terrace contemporary decoration inspires relaxation to soak up the incredible history of this chateau. in a calm, cosy space. This ancient tobacco +33 6 08 40 32 62 drying shed has a private pool. Visitors www.chateaudemaraval.fr can have gourmet meals in the centre of Vézac village, trips in a hot-air balloon and visit Sarlat, the jewel of the Périgord Noir. +33 6 40 57 02 03 www.lesechoirdesfontanelles.fr © CLV 24 © CLV ≈ CLV 24 ≈ CLV

LA MAISON DE SÉCHEBELLE VITRAC Clévacances (3 keys) - six people La Maison de Séchebelle will welcome you in spacious, comfortable surroundings. Its charm can be appreciated while relaxing next to the pool or in the jacuzzi. Trails starting not far from the house are ideal for lovely family walks. This house with its large gardens and view of the château de Montfort is not far from the main sites to be visited in the heart of Périgord Noir. +33 6 84 39 55 70 E-mail : [email protected] © CLV 24 © CLV

88 | ACCOMMODATION CAMPING

LE PECH DE CAUMONT *** CÉNAC-ET-SAINT-JULIEN Exceptional site with a panoramic view of Domme. An agreeable, calm location for your holidays on camping spaces or in chalets or mobile homes on separated, terraced sites. Pool and paddling pool for children. There is a games area, French bowls, games room and sports activities, with music concerts during the season. You can also go on guided hikes, canoe rides and mountain-bike rides from the site. +33 5 53 28 21 63 www.pech-de-caumont.com © Camping les Tailladis © Camping

LES TAILLADIS *** MARCILLAC-SAINT-QUENTIN Family camping site in the luxuriant Beune valley (between Les Eyzies, Sarlat and Montignac), with 90 camping spaces, four chalets, three mobile homes and two safari tents. Choice of leisure activities: lake, heated pool, sports field for all ages, French bowls, etc. The site also has a shop (fresh bread on order) and a restaurant with takeaway food. +33 5 53 59 10 95 www.tailladis.com © Pech de Caumont © Pech

LE PONT DE MAZERAT **** TAMNIÈS Come and spend your holidays in a © Camping le Pont de Mazerat le Pont © Camping modest-sized camping site, in natural, quiet surroundings. As a family or with friends, enjoy the comfort of our rental accommodation or your own camping equipment. Discover the marvels of Périgord Noir from this site between Sarlat, Montignac-Lascaux and Les Eyzies. At the site, there is a bar, a restaurant, bread and pastries, a heated pool and children’s games. +33 5 53 29 14 95 www.lepontdemazerat.com

| 89 ACCOMMODATION LAND OF SARLAT HOTELS

LA HOIRIE *** SARLAT In the heart of Périgord Noir, on a wooded hill at the gates of the mediaeval city of Sarlat, La Hoirie welcomes you in a park of nearly 2 acres. The hotel consists of three distinctive pavilions: Heritage, Hoirie and the Old Stables. We have 44 rooms decorated in refined taste, with air conditioning. Pool. Gourmet restaurant. +33 5 53 59 05 62 www.lahoirie.com © Akim Benbrahim

LE RELAIS DE MOUSSIDIÈRE **** SARLAT Superb Périgourdine manor-house, restored with passion, the Relais de Moussidière is situated in a luxuriant setting near the medieval city of Sarlat. It has 35 comfortable, tastefully decorated rooms. A warm welcome will make you feel completely at home. Pool. Lake. Restaurant only for groups. +33 5 53 28 28 74 www.hotel-moussidiere.com © Relais de Moussidière © Relais

AU GRAND HÔTEL DE SARLAT – PAVILLON CLOS LA BOËTIE ***** SARLAT Close to the medieval centre of Sarlat, the Pavillon Clos la Boétie combines luxury, romanticism, modern conveniences and serenity. Antique family furniture and sumptuous fabrics make up the warm atmosphere. 11 rooms with bath, spa, heated pool, fitness centre, sauna, well-being space using organic products – all designed to combine rest and relaxation in a cosy ambiance. +33 5 53 31 50 00 www.au-grand-hotel-de-sarlat.com de Sarlat Hôtel © Grand

90 |ACCOMMODATION | 91 HOLIDAY RENTALS AND BED & BREAKFAST

LES DEUX LOGIS LE GÎTE DES ARTISTES SARLAT-LA-CANÉDA SARLAT-LA-CANÉDA Clévacances (3 keys) - Clévacances (3 keys) - four people three or four people Charming wooden house ideally situated Holiday Apartments that are charming, in the countryside, only 2 kilometres from comfortable and refined, in the very Sarlat and its medieval centre, and 800 heart of Sarlat’s historical centre. So, metres from the shops. The owner used as a family or with friends, come and

© CLV24 it as his artist’s studio before transforming wander through the streets of Sarlat, it into a beautifully decorated self-catering and then stop and enjoy the pavement bungalow. A perfect starting point to cafés and street entertainment. LE CLOS VALLIS discover the treasures of the region. +33 6 85 26 80 38 SARLAT-LA-CANÉDA You will love your summer evenings in www.lesdeuxlogis.com Clévacances (3 keys) - eight people Sarlat watching all the street performers. +33 6 46 73 89 73 This ancient, 17th century stone-farm- www.sarlatgitedesartistes.com house, refurbished with taste, is a perfect pied-a-terre to discover Sarlat and the Périgord Noir. The Clos Vallis is only five minutes from the town’s historical centre where you can enjoy the gourmet “terroir” cuisine, before going back to this self-catering cottage in its park with a private pool. +33 5 53 28 95 64 www.leclosvallis.com © CLV24 © CLV24

CAMPING

LE TIRADOU *** SAINT-VINCENT-DE-COSSE LE CARBONNIER **** Situated near the most beautiful SAINT-MARTIAL-DE-NABIRAT sites in the Dordogne, deep Le Carbonnier welcomes you for an in the countryside. Family idyllic holiday near the best sites of the camping site, with 68 spaces region. You can rent a mobile home in that ensure calm and conviviality the 25-acre park or a camping space – ideal for family holidays.

© Camping La Butte © Camping of 120–180 square metres. Covered, Numerous services available: heated pool from April to September. snack bar, shop, laundry, wifi, heated pool, games area. LA BUTTE *** +33 5 53 28 42 53 www.lecarbonnier.fr +33 5 53 30 30 73 LA ROQUE-GAGEAC www.camping-le-tiradou.com This camping site of nearly 10 acres is situated in one of the most beautiful villages of the Périgord Noir, with its must-see visits. New aquatic park with four pools, one of which is covered and heated, jacuzzi, spa, paddling pool, water-slides and games area. +33 6 80 00 78 69 www.camping-la-butte.com © Camping Le Tiradou © Camping © Camping Le Carbonnier © Camping

92 | ACCOMMODATION ACCOMMODATION LAND OF BERGERAC HOTELS

EDWARD Ier **** MONPAZIER The Edward 1er hotel on the ramparts of the fortified town of Monpazier, named after the town’s founder, is in an elegant, comfortable 19th-century manor house. Some of the rooms have a panoramic view of the hills, while others overlook the medieval town. The garden has a pool and a beautiful terrace. The Eléonore restaurant provides dinner in a cosy ambiance. +33 5 53 22 44 00

LE VIEUX LOGIS **** TRÉMOLAT Le Vieux Logis, in the heart of Trémolat village, was a priory between the 14th and 16th centuries and then a farm. The rooms and apartments are in the main house and in the first and second Logis des Champs. Each room is charming, with stone walls, beams, old terracotta tiles and other features, decorated with antique furniture. The gourmet restaurant has a Michelin star. +33 5 53 22 80 06 www.vieux-logis.com © Hôtel Le Vieux Logis Le Vieux © Hôtel

CHÂTEAU DES VIGIERS **** MONESTIER The Château des Vigiers is ideally situated between Bergerac and Saint-Emilion and is well known for its elegant luxury and discreet charm and also for its gastronomy and its 27-hole golf course. It is regularly classified as one of the most beautiful golf-hotels in France. It has the Les Fresques restaurant, which has had a Michelin star since 2014, where the chef, Didier Casaguana, produces sublime dishes with local organic products. +33 5 53 61 50 00 www.vigiers.com des Vigiers © Château

| 93 HOLIDAY RENTALS AND BED & BREAKFAST

LE CLOS DES CHARMES SAINTE-SABINE-DE-BORN This 18th-century building has been converted into a holiday home, characterized by luxury and well-being. The domain can house up to 38 people in modular accommodation. There are several spaces for relaxation: a covered 15-metre swimming lane, spa, sauna, hammam, sports room and lounge bar. A covered space in the park can be used for receptions. The art of living in the Périgord in a unique place. +33 7 72 16 15 07 or +33 6 30 64 26 00 www.gite-luxe.com/ © Le Clos des Charmes © Le Clos

DEMEURE DE LA GIRONIE POMPORT Clévacances (4 keys) - 10 people The doors of this splendid 15th-century estate-house open onto spacious, beautifully decorated rooms. Set in its own vineyards, this stone house is a haven of peace, where you can relax and swim in the natural swimming-pool. Near Bergerac, it is the ideal start for visiting numerous sites, châteaux and wine cellars. Le Périgord Pourpre welcomes you and invites you to discover its many riches. +33 6 17 18 62 81 E-mail : [email protected] © CLV 24 © CLV

LA FERME DE LA CROIX SAINT-AVIT-SÉNIEUR Clévacances (3 keys) holiday cottage - eight people Béatrice and Frédéric will welcome you warmly to their holiday cottage between Bergerac and Sarlat, in a charming medieval village. You will be able to relax in the jacuzzi and taste the traditional Périgord cuisine prepared by the owners, mainly with local farm products, including a generous breakfast to start the day well. +33 6 71 98 84 78 www.fermedelacroix.com © CLV 24 © CLV

94 | ACCOMMODATION CAMPING

CAMPING D’ORPHÉO NEGRO *** DOUVILLE This camping site of 27 acres offers separated, shady spaces, chalets on the shores of the lake or mobile homes with a view of the lake. This family site offers equipment for sports and leisure. The 7.5-acre lake is a paradise for fishing. Guaranteed relaxation, calm and comfort at a site that is still partly wild nature. +33 5 53 82 96 58 www.orpheonegro.com © Moulin de Surier © Moulin

MOULIN DE SURIER **** BEAUMONT-DU-PÉRIGORD Throughout the year, these very pleasant, comfortable lodgings combine space and privacy. Situated in a small, calm, shady valley in the middle of the countryside, it is an ideal site for a family holiday or with friends. A wide choice of accommodation: chalets, mobile homes, safari tents, cabins and tree houses! With only 60 structures on 25 acres, calm is assured! +33 5 53 24 91 98 www.lemoulindesurier.com © Camping Orpheo Negro Orpheo © Camping

LA FERME DE SIRGUET MONSAC On a family holiday or a romantic escapade, you will spend magical moments in the marvellous, fully furnished, comfortable tree-houses for up to five people. An indoor heated pool is at your disposal. We also propose access to our well-being space, with a whirlpool bath in a tree and a sauna. +33 6 13 63 42 19 www.ferme-sirguet.com © Camping La Ferme de Sirguet La Ferme © Camping

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