Park News U.S. Department of the Interior

The offcial newspaper of Alagnak Wild River Aniakchak National Monument and Preserve Te Novarupta Katmai National Park and Preserve A trip planning and information guide to Issue Number 2019 Katmai National Park and Preserve

NPS/ROY WOOD ANELA RAMOS What’s Inside: Brooks Camp ...... 6 Bearcam ...... 12 Katmai Origins ...... 14 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY NATIONAL ROY WOOD Three National Parks, Many Amazing Experiences

National Park Service Welcome to Katmai Country U.S. Department of the Interior Welcome to the land of Katmai! through periods of difculty. Today Native peoples maintain their traditional The is a vast and beautiful lifeways as they join in the momentum of

Alagnak Wild River landscape where the National Park Service an ever-changing world. Their connection Aniakchak National Monument and has the privilege of managing Katmai to these lands is profound and worthy of Preserve National Park and Preserve, Aniakchak our unwavering respect. Katmai National Park and Preserve National Monument and Preserve, and the Alagnak Wild River. Regardless of your The eforts of many dedicated individuals Katmai was declared a national monument interests, these areas ofer a diversity of from diverse walks of life and over many in 1918; Aniakchak in 1978. The Alaska outstanding Alaskan experiences. years which has ensured wildlife remains National Interest Lands Conservation Act of abundant and diverse across the region. All 1980 established Alagnak Wild River, while The geology of these places is both ancient three National Park Service units support Katmai and Aniakchak were expanded to and new. The parks’ diverse landscapes world-class fsheries and outstanding include national preserve areas. Katmai was comprise expansive mountains, active wildlife viewing opportunities. To observe also redesignated a national park. Together, volcanoes, fowing glaciers, a wild and an Alaskan brown bear in its natural these lands encompass nearly fve million environment is a testament to the priorities acres of unique landscapes managed by the beautiful seacoast, and sparkling rivers National Park Service. and lakes. The cataclysmic eruption of of a nation and a gift to humankind. Novarupta in 1912 took place long ago Mailing Address when compared to a human lifespan, but We hope you have the chance to come and PO Box 7 is geologically recent. This single event experience the sights, sounds, and feel of King Salmon, AK 99613 had profound impacts. For example, the these special places for yourself; if you do, resulting ash covered everything for miles you are sure to create memories that will Park Headquarters and even today life is still recovering from last a lifetime. Phone: 907-246-3305 the efects of the eruption. Fax: 907-246-2116 Mark Sturm Human habitation of this region goes back Superintendent Websites many thousands of years and speaks of Alagnak: www.nps.gov/alag Aniakchak: www.nps.gov/ania thriving communities and perseverance Katmai: www.nps.gov/katm

Contents: ’s Parklands...... 2-3 Katmai and the National Park Idea ...... 14-15 Essential Information ...... 4 Fishing Information ...... 17 Getting Here, Getting Around ...... 5 Backcountry Travel ...... 18 Brooks Camp ...... 6 Aniakchak National Monument ...... 20-21 Camping at Brooks Camp ...... 8 Alagnak Wild River ...... 22-23 Brooks Camp Map ...... 9 Park Neighbors ...... 24-25 Bear Viewing ...... 10-11 Cycle of the Salmon ...... 26 Live Bearcams ...... 12 Alaska Geographic Association ...... 27 Safe Travels in Bear Country ...... 13 Exploring the Human History of Katmai ...... 28 2 The Novarupta Alagnak Aniakchak Katmai Wild River National Monument and Preserve National Park and Preserve

Unbounded by dams or artifcial channels, Midway down the wild, remote, and On June 6, 1912 residents of the northern the Alagnak River meanders its way from mostly roadless Alaska Peninsula lies Alaska Peninsula experienced one of the headwaters in the across one of the nation’s most fascinating, but largest volcanic eruptions in recorded the Alaska Peninsula to Bristol Bay and the least visited, volcanic features. Aniakchak history. The eruption at Novarupta Bering Sea. The upper 69 miles of river are National Monument and Preserve sent ash over 100,000 feet into the designated a national wild river, meaning surrounds a large formed by the atmosphere, led to the collapse of Mount free fow, no dams, and little human impact. collapse of a 7,000 foot volcano. Set inland Katmai, and created the Valley of Ten in a place of frequent clouds and ferce Thousand Smokes. From the time of the earliest Alaskans, the storms, Aniakchak was unknown to all river has given much to those willing to but area residents until the 1920s, and had Katmai National Monument was learn its ways. In summer, the river teems its last eruption in 1931. Nestled inside established in 1918 to protect the with salmon. Falls brings migrating caribou the caldera is Surprise Lake, a remnant of volcanically devastated region surrounding and berries. It traverses the beautiful Alaska a much larger lake that catastrophically and the Valley of Ten Peninsula, providing opportunities to drained in a massive food. Warm springs, Thousand Smokes. Today, Katmai National experience the unique wilderness, wildlife, melting snow, and glaciers feed Surprise Park and Preserve is still an active volcanic and cultural heritage of the area. Lake, which in turn gives rise to the landscape, which also protects 9,000 years Aniakchak Wild River. of human history as well as important This river is one of the most popular habitat for salmon and the thousands of sport fshing destinations in all of Alaska. This narrow stretch of the Alaska Penin- brown bears that feed on them. Alagnak’s extraordinary rainbow trout, sula boasts a rich human history. Volca- char, grayling, and abundant salmon are noes, earthquakes, and tsunamis have Katmai is a rugged and diverse land where some of the most attractive sport fsh in the interrupted the human story, yet the land bears are plentiful, salmon leap watefalls on world, and the river has become the most abides as a wild place where people can their journey to spawn, steaming volcanoes popular fy-in fshing destination in all of experience independence and interde- serve as a reminder of the earth’s power, Southwest Alaska. pendence. Life has persisted here in the and where cultural change continues. face of catastrophic change. See pages 22-23 for more information. See pages 6-19 for more information. See pages 20-21 for more information. FITZM.

Glacially shrouded volcanoes, like , form the geologic backbone of the Alaska Peninsula. Katmai National Park is the site of the largest volcanic eruption of the 20th century (see pages 14-15). The Novarupta 3 Essential Information

Dates and Hours of Operation page 13 for bear safety information. Only non-guided sport hunting is allowed in Alagnak, Aniakchak, and Katmai are open 24 the Alagnak Wild River corridor. In all other hours a day every day of the year. Most services Visitors to Brooks Camp are required, upon areas, sport hunting is prohibited. All hunting such as lodges and air taxis operate seasonally. arrival, to participate in a brief, mandatory bear activities require a license and are subject to safety talk at the Brooks Camp Visitor Center. National Park Service and Alaska Department National Park Service and concessionaire of Fish and Game regulations and restrictions. operated facilities at Brooks Camp are open Food Storage from June 1 through September 18. All food, beverages, garbage, equipment used Weather to cook or store food, and/or any odorous Even during summer, visitors to the Alaska Camping items must be properly stored in an approved Peninsula should be prepared for cool and Within 1.5 miles (2.4 km) of Brooks Falls (i.e., bear-resistant container (BRC). Certifed bear- stormy conditions with frequent strong winds. the Brooks Camp Developed Area), camping resistant products approved by the Department Clear skies occur about 20 percent of days. is only allowed at Brooks Camp Campground. of Interior and Agriculture‘s Interagency Grizzly In general, visitors to the Aniakchak area Camping is permitted elsewhere in Katmai Bear Committee can be found at http://igbcon- should expect signifcantly cooler, stormier, with one exception (see Hallo Bay, page 18) line.org/certifed-products-list/. The Alaska De- and windier conditions. Wherever you travel, and on any public lands within Aniakchak and partment of Fish and Game has an additional remain aware of the dangers and treatments Alagnak. list of approved items at www.adfg.alaska.gov/ for hypothermia and be equipped with index.cfm?adfg=livingwithbears.bearcontain- appropriate clothing and a shelter. Fees and Reservations ers. Food caches are available at Brooks Camp. There are no entrance fees associated with Pets public use of Alagnak, Aniakchak, and Katmai. Hunting Pets are not allowed within 1.5 miles (2.4 km) Sport hunting is only permitted in Preserve of Brooks Falls (i.e. the Brooks Camp Reservations and fees are required for camping areas of Katmai National Park and Preserve and Developed Area). In other areas, pets must be in Brooks Camp Campground and must be Aniakchak National Monument and Preserve. leashed or physically restrained at all times. made by telepone or online prior to arrival. See pages 8-9 for more camping information.

Reservations and fees also apply for public use of Fure’s Cabin at the northeast corner of the Bay of Islands on Naknek Lake. Reservations can be made through www.recreation.gov.

Visitor Centers The Brooks Camp Visitor Center, open June 1–September 30, is the point of entry for all visitors to Brooks Camp. A park ranger is on duty to provide information, campground check-in, bear safety talks, and backcountry Weather Information for King Salmon, Alaska planning. An Alaska Geographic Association (AGA) bookstore offers books, maps, and other Month Average High Average Low Average Precip. Katmai-related items. January 22.8°F (-5.1°C) 8.0°F (-13.3°C) 1.03” (26.2 mm)

Located next door to the King Salmon Airport, February 23.8°F (-4.6°C) 7.4°F (-13.7°C) .72” (18.3 mm) the King Salmon Visitor Center provides March 32.0°F (0°C) 15.1°F (-9.4°C) .79” (20.1 mm) information on the many federal public lands in Southwest Alaska, particularly those in the April 41.3°F (5.2°C) 24.9°F (-3.9°C) .94” (22.9 mm) Bristol Bay area. A large collection of flms is May 52.1°F (11.2°C) 34.8°F (1.6°C) 1.35” (34.3 mm) available for viewing and an AGA bookstore June 59.5°F (15.3°C) 42.2°F (5.7°C) 1.70” (43.2 mm) sells maps, marine charts, videos, posters, July 63.8°F (17.7°C) 47.5°F (8.6°C) 2.15” (54.6 mm) clothing, and more. Contact the King Salmon Visitor Center at 907-246-4250. August 62.2°F (16.8°C) 47.4°F (8.6°C) 2.89” (73.4 mm) September 54.9°F (12.7°C) 40.3°F (4.6°C) 2.81” (71.4 mm) Bears October 40.5°F (4.7°C) 26.0°F (-3.3°C) 2.10” (53.3 mm) This is bear country! Be prepared for a bear encounter! The Alaska Peninsula has a November 30.5°F (-0.8°C) 15.9°F (-8.9°C) 1.54” (39.1 mm) substantial population of brown bears. See December 25.1°F (-3.8°C) 9.3°F (-12.6°C) 1.39” (35.3 mm)

4 The Novarupta over 115inand around Alagnak, the adventurous. Numerous companies— These parklands are openyear-round for International Airport. available from the Ted Stevens Anchorage commercial fights to King Salmon are in King Salmon. Regularly scheduled about 290miles southwest ofAnchorage Alagnak, Aniakchak, and Katmai islocated The National Park headquarters for Service like lodging and hotmeals. are more easily accessed and have amenities abound. Other areas, such asBrooks Camp, ties for incredible wilderness experiences thisof area israrely visited and opportuni - clusively accessed by plane or boat. Much nak, Aniakchak, and Katmai are almost ex national parks inthe United States, Alag- and accessibility challenges. Unlike most ning inorder to overcome logistical certain nature the of area necessitates careful plan- attractive characteristic, but the remote Southwest Alaska’s remoteness to bean MANY PEOPLECONSIDER National ParkUnits Quick Tips forAccessingThreeofthe MostRemote Getting Here, GettingAround

- available at at available the parks. A complete is list services of are authorized by permit to operate in and food Commercial services. partners multi-day trips,overnight accommodations transportation, guided day trips,guided commercialof visitor including services, Aniakchak, and Katmai—provide avariety towns along the Pacifc Oceancoastline. canaccess KatmaiBoats from villages and villages. Soldotna, and other nearby towns and Homer, Iliamna, King Salmon, Kodiak, originating from Anchorage, Dillingham, may bedirectly accessed via airtaxi fights including Brooks Campand Alagnak River, Most destinations inthe Katmai region, miles (418km) southwest ofAnchorage. located on the Alaska Peninsula about 260 and Kodiak Islands. The Alagnak River is west the of Shelikof Strait and Afognak Katmai islocated on the Alaska Peninsula, Alagnak WildRiver Katmai NationalParkandPreserve and

go.nps.gov/AKComm.

along Bristol Bay and the Kvichak River. Alagnak River from towns and villages west the of canaccess Katmai. the Boats from Naknek and King Salmon, located both motorized and non-motorized boats Naknek River drainage canbereached by Brooks Campand other locations along the To view amap turnto page 24. route from Port Heiden. the Aniakchak Caldera via across-country adventurous groups have also hiked into from the Pacifc Oceancoastline. A few can access the monument and preserve other nearby towns and villages. Boats airplanes departing from King Salmon and Most people access Aniakchak by chartered km) southwest King Salmon. of southwest ofAnchorage and 150miles (241 Alaska Peninsula about 450miles (724km) in the United States. It islocated on the most remote all national of park areas Aniakchak isone the of least visited and Preserve Aniakchak NationalMonumentand

The Novarupta

5

NPS/M. FITZ Welcome To Brooks Camp KOPSHEVER D. Brooks Camp is renowned for its remarkable bear viewing opportunities. For information about bear viewing at Brooks Camp, see page 10. Brooks Lodge

Lodging, meals, fights, and many other The Bear Essentials: services at Brooks Camp are provided by Brooks Camp attracts people from all over Naknek Lake (the largest lake within any Katmailand, the park’s authorized conces - the world to fsh for trout and salmon, to national park in the United States). From sioner is Katmailand view brown bears, explore the Valley of Ten June 1 to September 18, the NPS operates a For information on Katmailand’s sport fsh - Thousand Smokes, and to learn about the visitor center, ranger station, campground, ing, bear viewing, air services, and lodging long human history of the area. and auditorium. Several park ranger and meal service opportunities go to www. programs are scheduled each day (see page katmailand.com or call 1-800-544-0551. Brooks Camp is situated at the mouth 7 for program information). of the Brooks River, along the shore of

Please Remember... Pets time. Storage caches for gear are located at Pets are not allowed within 1.5 miles the Brooks Camp Visitor Center, Lake Brooks, Upon Your Arrival (2.4 km) of Brooks Falls (i.e. the Brooks Camp and in the campground. Visitors to Brooks Camp are required to check Developed Area). in at the visitor center for a brief bear safety Camping talk outlining park regulations. These are Food Storage Within 1.5 miles (2.4 km) of Brooks Falls, important regulations designed specifcally to Do not carry food, beverages, or any other camping is only allowed in the Brooks Camp keep bears and people safe in Brooks Camp. odorous items around Brooks Camp. All food Campground. Consult pages 8-9 for more and drinks, except plain water, must be stored information. Accessibility inside a building or in a designated food cache. While most trails around Brooks Camp and the Eat and drink only in buildings or at designated Bear Viewing trail to Brooks Falls are wheelchair accessible, picnic areas. Only water can be consumed Viewing platforms are situated to provide they are not paved and frequently muddy. The outside designated picnic areas. exceptional opportunities for observing bears. walk to Brooks Falls can be arduous for some Three platforms are located at the mouth of people with limited mobility. A limited number Gear and Equipment Storage Brooks River. Two other platforms—Falls and of wheelchairs are available to borrow from the All gear and equipment must be attended Riffes—are located at Brooks Falls. Note: visitor center. or properly stored inside a building. Gear or these platforms are closed between 10:00 equipment cannot be left unattended at any pm and 7:00 am, June 15 to August 15.

6 The Novarupta Continued from page 6 Ranger Programs Visitor Center Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes Tour Evening Slide Show Programs From June 1 to September 30, a park ranger is A park ranger leads this scenic bus ride Join a park ranger for a 45-minute illustrated on duty to provide information, campground through some of Katmai’s spectacular back- program offering information and interesting check-in, and backcountry planning. A book- country. After lunch at the Robert F. Griggs perspectives on Katmai’s special features, store is also available offering Katmai-related Visitor Center overlooking the Valley of Ten history, and wildlife. Inquire at the visitor items (see page 27). Thousand Smokes, join an optional park center for times and topics. ranger-led hike into the Valley. The hike is three Hiking miles (4.8 km) round-trip, with 1,000 feet (305 Cultural History Walk A variety of hiking opportunities are available m) of elevation change. Sturdy boots, water, A park ranger leads this short .25 mile (0.4 km) at Brooks Camp. For information visit http:// raingear, and warm clothes are recommended. walk sharing the human history of Brooks River go.nps.gov/1cqg64. The tour is 7–8 hours. Inquire at Brooks Lodge Archeological District and National Historic for reservations or contact Katmailand at Landmark, including traditional Alaska Native 1-800-544-0551 and www.katmailand.com. uses of plants and animals. The walk lasts about an hour and leads to a reconstructed Alutiiq/Sugpiaq dwelling.

NPS

NPS NPS Creature Comforts: Braving Alaska’s Infamous Insects RAIN, COLD WINDS, AND THE ful souvenirs of happy times in the great One of the most despised insects around unrelenting onslaught of biting insects— outdoors. Brooks Camp, however, is the white sock. enjoying the beauty of Alaska does indeed White socks are a species of small biting come at a price. These parasitic invertebrates can inspire black fy, nicknamed for characteristic horror stories. So what do you need to white stripes on their legs. White sock While photographers are busy lining up know in order to survive with your skin swarms can be brutal and persistent in the perfect shot at Brooks Falls, black fies intact? For starters, don’t plan on being seeking out fesh, working their way under and mosquitoes are working at an equally attacked by mosquitoes alone. As the saying clothing until they are successful. frantic pace to fnd the perfect shot into the goes, to everything there is a season. The photographers’ skin. It is not uncommon same goes for Alaska’s resident inverte- Female fies actually rasp into the skin of to leave Brooks Camp with new belts and brates. their hosts, unlike mosquitoes that merely anklets of swollen, itchy insect bites—pain- pierce the skin with their needle-like At Katmai, mosquitos and black fies are proboscis. White sock bites can be typically most abundant in late spring and identifed by a characteristic red incision early summer. No-see-ums (very small mark in the middle of the swollen bite area. biting midges) peak in August. Population Other tell-tale signs include blood stains sizes do vary each year depending on left behind on the insides of T-shirts after a weather conditions and temperatures. stealthy attack. No-see-ums could reign supreme one year and seem nonexistent the next. Later, the bite area can become swollen, Furthermore, everyone reacts diferently somewhat painful, and intensely itchy. to insect bites and thus there are difering Relief from biting insects usually arrives on opinions on which insect is the peskiest. days when the weather is windy, rainy, and M. FITZ just generally dismal. Biting insects, like mosquitoes and black fies, are ubiquitous in Katmai. Expect close encounters! Continues on page 16 The Novarupta 7 Brooks Camp Campground

The only developed campground in Katmai National Park and Preserve is located at Brooks Camp.

With its wildlife viewing opportunities, access to Naknek Lake, and stunning views of nearby mountains, the Brooks Camp Campground is considered by many to be one of the top campgrounds in North America.

Because of the high numbers of bears in the Brooks Camp area, the campground is specially NPS/M. FITZ NPS/M. FITZ managed to minimize human–bear conficts. Facilities in the campground include cooking and eating shelters as well as food and gear caches. Campers must take special precautions to reduce odors from food, garbage, and Cooking which also contains a trash receptacle. In order anything else that could appeal to a bear’s All cooking and eating must take place within to prevent curious bears from investigating, strong sense of smell. one of the three shared cooking shelters. (As please store any unused equipment in the gear a safety precaution, campers arriving by air storage cache adjacent to the food cache. A Campground reservations are required and with portable camp stoves should bring empty freproof locker is available to store fammable must be made in advance. The campground fuel bottles and purchase fuel at the Brooks materials, such as stove fuel. has a limit of 60 people. See page 9 for more Lodge Trading Post.) Wash dishes and cooking information. utensils at the water spigot near the food Electrifed Fence storage cache. Brooks Camp Campground is enclosed within Campfres an electric fence designed to deter bears from Campfres are allowed in the three designated Food and Gear Storage entering. The fence is not bear proof, although fre rings near each cooking shelter. Only All food, refuse, and any other odorous items once “shocked,” bears tend to avoid any dead and downed wood may be collected for (e.g., toothpaste, deodorant, etc.) must be subsequent contact with these fences. frewood. Please do not cook over open fres. stored in the centrally located food cache

How Far is the Walk to... (one way distances) Cultural Site Lower River Platform Outhouse Falls Platform Visitor Center Camp Brooks Campground Falls Trail Lake Brooks

0.3 mi 0.25 mi 0.3 mi 0.6 mi 1.2 mi 1.2 mi Visitor Center 0 (0.5 km) (0.4 km) (0.5 km) (1 km) (1.9 km) (1.9 km) Brooks Camp 0.3 mi 0.55mi 0.6 mi 0.9 mi 1.4 mi 1.5 mi 0 Campground (0.5 km) (0.9 km) (1 km) (1.4 km) (2.3 km) (2.4 km) 0.25 mi 0.55 mi 0.55 mi 0.85 mi 1.45 mi 1.55 mi Cultural Site 0 (0.4 km) (0.9 km) (0.9 km) (1.4 km) (2.3 km) (2.5 km) Lower River 0.3 mi 0.6 mi 0.55 mi 0.3 mi 0.9 mi 1 mi 0 Platform (0.5 km) (1 km) (0.9 km) (.5 km) (1.4 km) (1.6 km) Falls Trail 0.6 mi 0.9 mi 0.85mi 0.3 mi 0.6 mi 0.7 mi 0 Outhouse (1 km) (1.4 km) (1.4 km) (0.5 km) (1 km) (1.1 km) 1.2 mi 1.4 mi 1.45 mi 0.9 mi 0.6 mi 1.3 mi Falls Platform 0 (1.9 km) (2.3 km) (2.3 km) (1.4 km) (1 km) (2.1 km) 1.2 mi 1.5 mi 1.55 mi 1 mi 0.7 mi 1.3 mi Lake Brooks 0 (1.9 km) (2.4 km) (2.5 km) (1.6 km) (1.1 km) (2.1 km)

8 The Novarupta Campground Reservations

Reservations are required for the Brooks Camp campground is usually full, must be prepared Campground from May to October. Reserva- to backcountry camp outside of the Brooks tions can be made beginning January 5 each Camp Developed Area—defned as the area year. Telephone and internet access are not within 1.5 miles (2.4 km) of Brooks Falls. available at Brooks Camp, so campground reservations must be made prior to your arrival. Reservations cost $12.00 per person per night from June 1–September 18 and $6 per person

During the month of July, campsites may be per night in May and September 19 to October NPS/M. FITZ reserved for a maximum of seven nights, 31. Please visit www.recreation.gov or call Brooks Camp Campground is surrounded by an cumulatively. Campers arriving without a 877-444-6777 (within United States), 518-885- electric fence. It is bear-resistant, but not bear- proof. Campers must take precautions so that bears reservation, especially during July when the 3639 (international). are not tempted to enter the campground.

Brooks Camp Area Map

North To Dumpling Mountain 1.5 mi (2.4 km) to overlook 4 mi (6.4 km) to summit 0.3 mi (0.5 km)

Map not to scale

Float plane Auditorium Access m) 0 4 i

Visitor

Center s ve r Cultural Site r Brooks Lodge

(0.3 km) km) (0.3

0.2 mi mi 0.2

Falls (0.2 km) km) (0.2

Platform mi 0.1

Naknek Riffes Lake Platform ˇ .6 mi/1 o k m a ) Lower River r Bus to Valley of a l Platform Ten Thousand i .1 0.2 m) Smokes meets here.

Bear Jam! Bear activity may delay crossing the bridge over d a Brooks River. Be prepared to wait in windy and/or

rainy conditions and allow yourself ample time to

e l meet meal services and/or your departing fight.

0.7 mi (1.1 Lake km) Brooks Float plane To Valley of access Ten Thousand Smokes 23 mi (37 km)

The Novarupta 9 Bear Viewing at Brooks Camp

Bears Galore BROOKS CAMP IS WORLD FAMOUS for its bear viewing opportunities. It is one of the most accessible and popular bear watching sites in Katmai National Park. Watching bears at Brooks Camp is an unforgettable experience, but timing your trip properly is critical because the overall number of bears as well as their general behavior varies with the seasons.

When can bears be seen at Brooks Camp? Bear viewing at Brooks Camp is best from very late June through the end of July and again in September. At other times of the year, like June and August, less food is available along the Brooks River so bears are not seen as frequently.

Springtime is a lean season for bears. Little NPS/M. FITZ food is typically available to bears in the Watching a mother bear play with her cub is an unforgettable experience. spring so bears are dispersed throughout The behavior and appearance of the bears In July, many of the bears that cannot the area and are only infrequently seen at also varies with the season. In July, more compete for fshing spots at Brooks Falls Brooks Camp in May and June. aggressive interactions between bears will fsh the lower half of the Brooks River. are observed, especially at the beginning At this time of the year, females with cubs When the salmon begin to arrive in late of the month. Bears are also thinner and are usually easiest to see near the mouth of June, bears migrate to the Brooks River. many will shed their fur at this time. In the Brooks River. Bears can be seen fshing at Brooks Falls September, bears at Brooks Camp are and in the lower Brooks River throughout typically less aggressive towards each After the salmon begin to spawn and die in the month of July. Mid-July is typically other. In contrast to early summer, bears in late summer, bear activity is concentrated when the largest number of bears can be September and later in the fall are usually in the lower half of the Brooks River. In seen along the river. In late July, after the fat and covered with a new coat of fur. some years a few bears may still fsh at salmon run peaks, bears begin to disperse Brooks Falls and the upper Brooks River to feed in other areas. Where can bears be seen at Brooks Camp? in September and October, but most will The brown bears of Katmai are eating patrol the slower moving waters of the In August, salmon are beginning to spawn machines. A Katmai bear must eat a lower Brooks River as they search for dead in the Brooks River, but they are less full year’s worth of food in 6-8 months and dying salmon that collect in the slow concentrated, remain energetic, and are to ensure its survival. Katmai’s bears moving currents and eddies near the river no longer migrating. This creates difcult predictably congregate around rich and mouth and bridge. fshing conditions for bears and almost all concentrated sources of food. At Brooks of the bears will leave the area. Like June, Camp this means salmon. Five wildlife viewing platforms can be there are typically days in August when no found along the river – one at Brooks Falls, bears are seen at Brooks Camp. During the peak of the salmon migration in one downstream of the falls, and three at July, bears will fsh for salmon all along the the mouth of Brooks River. Each one can By late August, many salmon have already Brooks River, but bears will be especially ofer unique bear watching experiences in spawned and will begin to die. As the fsh concentrated at Brooks Falls. The falls season. weaken and die, bears will again migrate creates a temporary barrier to migrating to the Brooks River to feed. In September, salmon which gives some bears the oppor- Other Considerations bears are usually present in high numbers tunity to catch many fsh with little efort. Brooks Camp is a unique place with special as they search for dead and dying salmon. Typically, the largest and most dominant regulations designed to protect bears and bears along the river fsh at Brooks Falls. people. Continues on page 11 10 The Novarupta Continued from page 10 ter windy, cool, and wet weather as well as proximity to the bridge. Give yourself some Everyone who arrives at Brooks Camp is biting insects like mosquitos and black fies. extra time to cross the bridge in July and required to check in at the Brooks Camp September. Wait times commonly exceed Visitor Center for a brief bear safety talk Weather and bear encounters can some- 1.5 hours, especially midday. The Platform outlining park regulations and proper times delay the arrival and departure of is open 7 am to 5 pm. behavior at Brooks Camp. foat planes, so it is usually best to incorpo- rate some extra time into your itinerary in More people visit Brooks Camp in July Be sure to dress and pack in anticipation of case of any delays. than any other month. If you come at this diverse and changing weather conditions. time, expect crowded conditions especially Whether staying for just a few hours or for The bridge across Brooks River can tempo- at Brooks Falls Platform. several days, you should expect to encoun- rarily close because of bear activity in close

Other Bear Viewing Opportunities in Katmai

A bear’s waking hours are often dominated by their search for food. Outside of their denning Where the Wild Things Are: A Bear Viewing Calendar for season, bears predictably congregate in food Katmai National Park and Preserve rich areas throughout the Katmai region. Some areas of Katmai National Park, like the food Location June July August September (primary food) rich Pacifc coast, support some of the highest densities of bears ever documented. Other areas of the park with little food, such as the Brooks Camp (salmon) Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes, support only a few bears in any season. Hallo Bay (vegetation, If you know what foods bears prefer to eat and clams) when that food is most abundant, accessible, Geographic and nutritious, then you will be able to fnd Harbor many areas in Katmai to observe these fasci- (salmon) nating animals. Many guided trips to observe Swikshak bears in Katmai’s backcountry are available. Lagoon See link page 5.. (vegetation)

Moraine Creek/ Funnel Creek (salmon)

= Few Bears; = Some Bears; = Many Bears NPS/C. TURNER Exceptional wildlife watching opportunities can be found throughout Katmai, like Hallo Bay. The Novarupta 11 Bearcam!

Watch Live Streaming Video of Brooks River and Its Famous Bears Watch live footage of brown bears fshing for salmon anywhere with an internet connection. Katmai’s bearcams are live and freely accessible. Cameras are located at Brooks Falls, at the outlet of the Brooks River, near the summit of Dumpling Mountain, and even underwater.

Don’t miss a second of the action. Go to go.nps.gov/bearcam and follow the links to these world famous bearcams.

Join the Bearcam Community Connect with the growing online community of Katmai and brown bear stewards. Discuss recent and past bearcam events with other fans, share your thoughts on national parks and wildlife conservation, and upload your favorite Streaming webcams at Brooks River take you right bearcam screen shots for others to enjoy. to the action at Brooks Falls. Watch the cams at On social media, use #bearcam and join the go.nps.gov/bearcam. real-time chat at the bottom of any bearcam KATM_calendar or social media pages for Funding for the installation, maintenance, page on www.explore.org/bears. the live chat schedule. and technical support for the bearcams is proudly provided by explore.org. Explore.org Ranger Live Chats is a philanthropic organization with a mission Throughout the year, rangers host live web to champion the selfess acts of others, cre- chats on the bearcams to discuss the ate a portal into the soul of humanity, and biology, behavior, and ecology of bears inspire lifelong learning. Katmai was granted and the salmon they depend on. Check the $150,000 by explore.org to further fund park’s calendar of events at go.nps.gov/ educational efforts related to the bearcams.

Bears of Brooks River ebook

Every bear at Brooks River has a story. Since Katmai National Park and Preserve National Park Service 2001, biologists at Katmai have conducted U.S. Department of the Interior in-depth monitoring sessions along Brooks River to record data on bear and human use of the area. Over time, this information has Bears of Brooks River 2019 A Guide to Their Identifcation, Lives, and Habits grown into one of the most comprehensive data sets about bear use of a particular place ever recorded and provides you with the opportunity to learn more about the lives of these amazing animals.

Brown Bears of Brooks River, a free ebook, provides life history and identifcation information on the most commonly seen Brooks River bears as well as stories about bear research, biology, and behavior. Visit go.nps.gov/katmai_ebooks to download the latest edition of Brown Bears of Brooks River.

12 The Novarupta You are in Brown Bear Country

Prepare For Bear Encounters Anywhere You Go Bears are fascinating animals that add are usually noisier and smellier than a single excitement and risk to any trip in bear person. Therefore, bears often become aware country. Katmai National Park and of groups of people at greater distances, and Preserve, and the surrounding lands in because of their cumulative size groups of Southwest Alaska, support some of the people are also passively intimidating to bears. Hiking and traveling in groups is typically the highest densities of bears on earth, so the best way to increase your level of safety in bear chances of encountering a bear in Katmai country. are very high. Before you begin your visit, learn as much about bears as you can. You Remain Calm need not fear bears, but you do need to A bear may approach closely or rear up on its respect them. Follow these general guide- hind legs to identify you. Back away slowly, = Few Bears; lines during your stay and don’t hesitate moving out of its line of travel if necessary. to ask your guide or a ranger for more You may need to leave a trail temporarily to information. Don’t Get Too allow a bear to pass. If a bear follows you, stop and hold your ground. If a bear continues to Avoid Surprise Encounters Close for Comfort! approach, make noise, wave your arms, and try Take appropriate steps to avoid surprising to appear as large as possible. bears. Where visibility is limited or where windy conditions prevail, make noise to warn bears If A Bear Makes Contact, Play Dead Give Bears Space of your approach. The human voice is the best Fall to the ground on your stomach with your Do not approach bears within 50 yards (46 tool for this. Bears may not associate other legs apart. Lock your hands behind your neck m), or as otherwise directed by National Park noise makers, such as bells, with people. If to protect your neck and face. If you do get Service personnel. Some bears need more you see a bear that is unaware of you and/or rolled over, keep rolling until you’re face down space than others. To lessen your impact far away, back away slowly and quietly while again. Stay quietly in this position until the on the animals, avoid actions that interfere observing the bear’s behavior. bear has left the area. If the attack continues with bear movement, behavior, or foraging long after you have assumed the protective activities. Please check with a park ranger if Avoid Food Sources That Attract Bears position, fght back vigorously. you’re unsure about a situation. In general, Bears can be especially protective of the greater the distance between yourself concentrated food sources like salmon and For More Information and Regulations and a bear, the safer you can be. animal carcasses, so be especially cautious in Special regulations designed to keep bears areas where bears are likely to gather and feed. and people safe apply in Katmai. See page 6, Hike and Travel in Groups Stay far away from animal carcasses. Bears pages 17-18, and Katmai’s bear safety pages Groups of four or more people are typically often defend these aggressively. at go.nps.gov/Katmai_bearsafety for more in- very safe in bear country. Groups of people depth information. Do Not Run Running may encourage a bear to pursue you. Bears can run faster than 30 mph (50 km/hr). You cannot outrun them. If you are charged, try to appear non-threatening. Stand your ground and speak to the bear in a calm voice. Bears sometimes come within a few feet of people before stopping. NPS The Novarupta 13 Katmai and the National Park Idea TIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY NA The Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes flled its discoverers with wonder, awe, curiosity, and a sense of stewardship. Robert Griggs: Katmai’s First Champion On June 6, 1912, Novarupta Volcano graphic Society into the heart of the area. “The sight that fashed into view...was one exploded in a remote valley on the He discovered far more than he imagined. of the most amazing visions ever beheld by northern Alaska Peninsula. For 60 hours, mortal eye. The whole valley as far as the ash and pumice darkened skies across the In July 1916, Griggs and his team sufered eye could reach was full of hundreds, no region, pyroclastic fows and surges buried through exhaustive slogs in quicksand, thousands—literally tens of thousands—of Ukak River valley, and the summit of punishing wind storms, and two smokes curling up from its fssured foor. Mount Katmai collapsed forming a 2000 treacherous climbs to reach the rim of Continues on page 15 feet (600 m) deep caldera. Mount Katmai’s newly formed caldera. On July 31, the day after their second Mount The ash and pumice released during the Katmai ascent, Griggs continued toward eruption represents over 3 mi3 (13.5 km3) Katmai Pass. Temporarily leaving behind of beneath the earth, 30 times more one companion who “was incapacitated by magma than the 1980 Mount Saint Helens too many fapjacks,” he and L.G. Folsom eruption. The Novarupta-Katmai eruption traversed a deeply gullied notch between was the largest of the 1900s and one of the Mount Trident and Mount Mageik. fve largest in recorded history. Just as Griggs was ready to turn back, he The eruption created a harsh land of aban- caught sight of a small volcanic steam vent doned villages, ghost forests, quicksand, in Katmai Pass. After warming his hands and ash covered mountains. Even so, a few in this small fumarole, he spotted another, people were eager to explore the trans- much larger one nearby. Curiosity hastened formed terrain. Curious about vegetative him forward. In the January 1917 issue of KOLB / NAU CLINE LIBRARY KOLB / NAU CLINE LIBRARY recovery in the wake of such a large scale National Geographic Magazine, Griggs E.C. eruption, Robert Griggs organized and led described what he saw next. Robert Griggs (1881-1961) led several National Geographic Society expeditions that brought world- expeditions funded by the National Geo- wide attention to the Katmai region. 14 The Novarupta Continued from page 14 It was as though all the steam engines in the world, assembled together, had popped their safety valves at once and were letting of steam in concert.”

Griggs discovered the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes, an amazing 46 mi2 (120 km2) steaming landscape. Later that night, he found sleep impossible—his mind restless with thoughts. Griggs later described himself as “overawed” but he “had seen enough to know that we had accidentally discovered one of the great wonders of the world.”

What to do with such a place? Citing Yellowstone as an example Griggs answered, “I recognized at once that the Katmai district must be made a great national park accessible to all the people.” Through the National Geographic Society, Griggs lobbied for permanent protection of the Katmai region. Two years after the discovery of the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes, Katmai National Monument was established by presidential proclamation.

The National Park Service entered its second century in 2017, but the national park idea was born long before the creation of the National Park Service, in the minds and actions of citizens. It lived in the mind of Robert Griggs during NPS/M. FITZ Volcanic gas vents, or fumaroles, in the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes formed where water became his explorations of Katmai. He “found” superheated by heat trapped within the 1912 ash fow. Today, fossil fumaroles are recognized by their Katmai and became Katmai’s frst modern colorful halos. Most of these fumaroles cooled by the late 1920s. day champion. Robert Griggs’s discovery of and subsequent eforts to protect the Gilbert Grosvenor Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes exemplifes Robert Griggs received enthusiastic support the national park idea. This idea continues from Gilbert H. Grosvenor, then President of the to live in the hearts and minds of National Geographic Society, to explore Katmai. people all over the world. How will you Did Grosvenor plant the seeds of the national #FindYourPark? park idea in Griggs’s mind?

Shortly before Griggs discovered the grandeur of Katmai, Grosvenor discovered the importance of national parks. In 1915, Stephen Mather Gilbert H. Grosvenor invited Grosvenor to the Sierra Nevada in a bid to garner support for the fedgling national park idea. Grosvenor was overwhelmed by the trip and quickly became a staunch supporter of national parks. He helped Mather draft the Organic Act of 1916 which established the National Park Service.

Griggs was likely familiar with Grosvenor’s support of national parks since the entire April 1916 edition of National Geographic Magazine was devoted to national parks. Grosvenor also fully NPS/B. PLOG Several hundred feet of ash and pumice cover the supported Griggs’s efforts to protect Katmai. Today, Grosvenor Camp and Lake Grosvenor bear Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes near Novarupta. his name—a tribute to an infuential national park supporter.

The Novarupta 15 Photographing a Wild Heritage

location. If minimum distances exist for them in engaging in inappropriate approaching wildlife, follow them. or harmful behavior. Many people • In the absence of management authority, unknowingly endanger themselves and use good judgment. Treat the wildlife, animals. plants and places as if you were their • Report inappropriate behavior to proper guest. authorities. Don’t argue with those who You are encouraged to enjoy Katmai’s wildlife, • Prepare yourself and your equipment don’t care; report them. but please do it with respect and care. National for unexpected events. Avoid exposing • Be a good role model, both as a parks are symbols of our wild heritage. The yourself and others to preventable photographer and a citizen. Educate forethought of past generations has given mishaps. others by your actions; enhance their us the special places we enjoy today. Help understanding. protect and preserve the natural wonders of Individual: Expertise and Responsibility Katmai, Aniakchak, and the Alagnak for the • Treat others courteously. Ask before This copyrighted information has been future by maintaining standards of ethical joining others already shooting in an reprinted with permission from the North photography—it’s up to each of us. area. American Nature Photography Association. For • Tactfully inform others if you observe more information, please visit www.nanpa.org. The North American Nature Photography Asso- ciation (NANPA) encourages adherence to the following Principles of Ethical Field Practices:

Environment: Knowledge of Subject and Place • Learn patterns of animal behaviors so as not to interfere with animal life cycles. • Do not distress wildlife or their habitat. Respect the routine needs of animals. • Use appropriate lenses to photograph wild animals. If an animal shows stress, move back and use a longer lens. • Acquaint yourself with the fragility of the ecosystem. Stay on trails that are intended to lessen impact.

Social: Knowledge of Rules and Laws • When appropriate, inform managers or other authorities of your presence NPS/M. FITZ and purpose. Help minimize cumulative If people behave consistently, then animals may learn to behave consistently around people. Your potential impacts and maintain safety. impact on animals can be minimized by photographing from predictable places like the wildlife viewing • Learn the rules and laws of the platforms at Brooks Camp.

Continued from page 7 insects play in the ecosystem. Male mosqui- Fortunately, skies around Brooks Camp are tos and black fies are pollinators. They all clear for only 20 percent of the summer. serve as food sources for other animals. The best defense against the insect mobs is Furthermore, they respond more quickly to to cover up. Many people report that insect environmental changes than vertebrates do, repellent containing DEET is not always which can help provide early detection of efective. Therefore, it is wise to invest in ecological changes. a good head net, wear long sleeved shirts, and be prepared to tuck your pant legs into Regardless of their ecological importance, your socks on particularly buggy days. the insects of Katmai provide visitors with something else: stories to take back home— It may be difcult to see any value in the battle scars, even—to remind us that the Black fy larvae live in clean and cold fowing water Class Insecta after being harassed by a beauty of Alaska can’t be won without before they pupate into aerial adults. Early in cloud of black fies or mosquitoes, but persevering through hardships, however summer, they are not hard to fnd on rocks and logs in Katmai’s streams. consider the indispensable role these large, or small, they may be. 16 The Novarupta Gone Fishing?

Fishing in the Katmai Region A visit to Alagnak and Katmai ofers tre- spot bears for you. At minimum, keep 50 yards https://youtu.be/snKzEskc_OY and in the mendous fshing opportunities for rainbow between yourself and all bears. Stop fshing Brooks Camp Visitor Center. This video, written trout, arctic char, grayling, and salmon. and move away well before a bear approaches and produced by experienced local fshing Katmai’s runs of salmon, in particular, also within 50 yards, or you may fnd yourself in a guides, succinctly highlights proper catch and situation with a fsh on the line and a bear in release techniques. support some of the greatest gatherings pursuit. of brown bears on earth. No matter when Regulations or where you choose to fsh, extra care Catch and Release Ethics Fishing in Katmai, Aniakchak, and the Alagnak and responsibility are necessary to protect Many areas in the Katmai region experience is subject to Alaska Department of Fish and people, wildlife, and the experience. heavy fshing pressure each year. Fish are often Game (ADF&G) regulations and restrictions. Fishing Around Bears caught multiple times per season. Therefore, Additional federal regulations apply to Brooks When salmon spawning activity peaks in a anglers must release fsh as quickly and gently River. Alaska state fshing licenses are required. stream, bears and anglers compete for the as possible to ensure their continued survival. For more fshing information, ask a park ranger same resources. Expect to spend more time out or visit the ADF&G website at www.adfg.state. of the water than in, and be prepared to give Avoid playing a fsh to exhaustion. As a fsh is ak.us/. up your fshing hole to a bear at some time landed, keep it in the water when removing during your trip. the hook. Fish can quickly suffocate when removed from water, especially after battling Splashing fsh sound like food to bears. Bears the forces of rod and reel. Use barbless hooks will often move in your direction to investigate as much as possible. They are easier to remove a fsh on a line. Always be prepared to cut or and less injurious to fsh. break your fshing line, so that you can free the fsh and move out of the water until the bear The slime on fsh helps to protect it from passes. Never let a bear acquire a fsh from disease and parasites. Handling a fsh roughly, you. with dry hands, or dragging it onto the shore removes this slime and reduces its chances for It is easy to become so engaged in fshing, survival. that you forget to be alert for bears. They are surprisingly quiet and diffcult to see in dense A short video, Letting Go: The Art of Catch and grass or tall brush, so always have someone Release, is available to watch online at NPS/ROY WOOD The Novarupta 17 Backcountry Travel NPS/M. FITZ Hikers often fnd challenge, adventure, unusual geology, and surreal beauty in the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. Logistics Leave No Trace Permits Leave No Trace is a national and international Permits are not required for backcountry travel program designed to assist outdoor enthusiasts or camping, but you are encouraged to submit with their decisions about how to reduce a backcountry itinerary at the Brooks Camp their impacts when they hike, camp, picnic, and King Salmon visitor centers. In case of snowshoe, run, bike, hunt, paddle, ride emergency, these itineraries give park rangers horses, fsh, ski or climb. The program strives a point of reference to begin a search and to educate all those who enjoy the outdoors rescue. about the nature of their recreational impacts as well as techniques to prevent and Camping minimize such impacts. Leave No Trace is best Camping is allowed anywhere on public lands understood as an educational and ethical within Aniakchak National Monument and program, not as a set of rules and regulations. Preserve and Alagnak Wild River. At Katmai, no camping is permitted within 1.5 miles (2.4 km) Leave No Trace information is rooted in of Brooks Falls except within the Brooks Camp scientifc studies and common sense. The Campground. Seasonal camping restrictions message is framed under seven Leave No Trace may apply to other areas of Katmai. Please visit Principles: go.nps.gov/KATMbackcountry for the latest information. 1. Plan Ahead and Prepare NPS/M. FITZ Campsites must be relocated at least 2 miles 2. Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces Backcountry campers should consider using portable electric fences in areas with high (3.2 km) after 14 consecutive days in one densities of bears. location. When choosing a campsite, follow 3. Dispose of Waste Properly Leave No Trace guidelines. Food, trash, and all odorous items must be carried and stored 4. Leave What You Find in a bear-resistant container (BRC). A limited Attention Hallo Bay supply of BRCs are available to borrow at the 5. Minimize Campfre Impacts Brooks Camp and King Salmon visitor centers. Campers: Hanging food is not encouraged as trees of 6. Respect Wildlife appropriate height are not usually available. To ensure bears’ free access to prime feeding 7. Be Considerate of Others sites and to reduce the risk of bear/human Maps conficts, camping within the core Hallo Bay Maps are available from the USGS Map Store This copyrighted LNT information has been Meadows is closed from April 1 through (store.usgs.gov). The Brooks Camp and King reprinted with permission from the Leave No Trace October 31 annually. For more information, Salmon visitor centers (see page 4) maintain a Center for Outdoor Ethics. For more information, please visit go.nps.gov/KATMbackcountry. please visit www.lnt.org. limited selection of topographic maps as well. 18 The Novarupta Explore the Savonoski Loop Magnifcent lakes, rivers, and mountains await Paddlers should exercise caution to avoid these information. Public use of Fure’s Cabin in Bay exploration on the Savonoski Loop, an 80 mile potential hazards and practice Leave No Trace of Islands is available by permit. Reservations (129 km) backcountry canoe or kayak trip. skills. and permits are issued through www.recre- The trip generally takes four to ten days to ation.gov. To read more about the Savonoski complete, depending on weather conditions Equipment rentals, outftters, and guides may Loop and other boating opportunities in Kat- and paddlers’ experience. be available locally. Contact the King Salmon mai, please visit go.nps.gov/KATMboating. Visitor Center at 907-246-4250 for more Most paddlers begin at Brooks Camp and The 80 mile (129 km) Savonoski Loop. travel to the North Arm of Naknek Lake and Bay of Islands where rugged topography and an intricate shoreline invite further exploration. At historic Fure’s Cabin, a 1.5 mile (2.4 km) portage leads to Lake Grosvenor. After reaching Lake Grosvenor, paddlers usually continue southeast on the lake to its outlet. After reaching Savonoski River, paddlers are swiftly carried to the Iliuk Arm of Naknek Lake.

Bears are commonly seen along the route. In July, many paddlers avoid camping along Savonoski River, as it is particularly popular with bears fshing for salmon. Strong winds and cold water can create dangerous conditions at any time. Down trees form sweepers and strainers in Savonoski River. River Crossings in the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes The Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes poses for example, can only be forded in a few • Release your pack’s belt buckle and special challenges for backcountry travelers. places. If you cannot fnd a safe crossing, then loosen shoulder straps so you can drop Suspended volcanic ash and glacially-derived you should not attempt to cross. You may also your pack easily. sediments in river waters often make water need to wait a day or longer until lower water • Cross early in the morning when runoff depths impossible to estimate, and most of levels permit safe crossing. from glaciers is low. the rivers in the Valley are confned to narrow • Allow yourself a retreat. Don’t commit to gorges that are deceptively deep and swift. Follow these tips when crossing: one route. Hikers must be especially cautious when • Watch the water’s surface and cross • Use a hiking pole or stick to help steady choosing a place to cross the Valley’s rivers where you see small ripples, not waves. yourself and gauge the water’s depth. and creeks. The River Lethe and Knife Creek, • Wear shoes while crossing.

Hikers can cross River Lethe in very few places. High and sediment-laden water often hide steep drop-offs and gorges (inset bottom right).

High Water Drop Off Level

River Gorge

Typical Water Level NPS/M. FITZ The Novarupta 19 Aniakchak National Monument and Preserve NPS/J. MILLER Vent Mountain (middle foreground) in the Aniakchak Caldera is one of the more recent reminders of Aniakchak’s active volcanism. A Remote and Wonderful Land ANIAKCHAK IS OUT THERE, wide, 2,500 foot (770 m) deep caldera was fows. At 2.5 miles long (4 km), Surprise really out there. It lies 450 miles (724 km) left in the eruption’s wake. Since then, Lake is all that remains of the once larger south of Anchorage on the roadless Alaska subsequent eruptions created cinder cones, lake. Catastrophic change has repeatedly Peninsula. Because of its remote location fows, and explosion pits that dot the altered the face of the landscape, but that is and notoriously bad weather, Aniakchak is caldera foor. Aniakchak’s most recent only one of the many things to discover at one of the least visited units of the national eruption occurred in early May, 1931. Aniakchak. park system. However, the monument’s When you are in the caldera, you feel like extraordinary landscape make it a truly you are inside of a volcano. Only a few dozen people per year visit unique place to experience. making solitude easy to fnd. It is rich Aniakchak’s caldera was once partly flled with wildlife and fsh, and archeological Aniakchak is a vibrant reminder of Alaska’s with a large lake, similar to Crater Lake in excavations have revealed a substantial location on the volcanically active Ring Oregon. Eventually, a weaker portion of record of human history in the area. Of of Fire. About 3,400 years ago, a 7,000 the caldera rim collapsed. The resulting course, there is always the volcano. If you foot (2150 m) volcano collapsed during outfow eroded the rim to create The Gates visit be prepared for the worst, but expect a massive eruption. A six-mile (10 km) through which the Aniakchak River now to experience the best of Alaska.

Ancestral Surprise Lake once stood as much as 500 feet (160 m) above the foor of Aniakchak Caldera. It was esti- mated to drain at the incredible rate of 8,238,000 feet3 (240,000 m3) per sec - ond. The lake disappeared within a few hours after water broke through The Gates on the caldera rim. NPS/T. HAMON NPS/T. 20 The Novarupta Through The Gates: Rafting Aniakchak Wild River Congress designated Aniakchak River a national wild river in 1980. Spectacular scenery and remoteness make rafting this river a rewarding experience. From Surprise Lake, the river fows a peaceful mile (1.6 km) to The Gates. The river moves swiftly through this narrow gorge in the caldera wall, and large rocks demand precise maneuvering. A gradient of 75 feet per mile (14.2 m/km) makes this section challenging.

After a more gentle 10 miles (16.1 km) rafters arrive at the confuence with Hidden Creek where car-sized boulders, abrupt bends, and a narrow bed requiring extreme caution. After 5 more miles (8 km), the river slows as it meanders toward the Pacifc Ocean and the seals, sea otters, bald eagles, and sea birds of Aniakchak Bay. Bears can be seen all along the river. NPS/T. HAMON NPS/T. Are you contemplating the trip? Aniakchak Rafters must negotiate car-sized boulders in The Gates of the Aniakchak Wild River. River challenges even the most experienced Bring durable, feld tested equipment. river runners. Only a few parties foat the Infatable rafts 12–13 feet (4 m) long with river each year, mostly in July. Aniakchak’s rowing platforms are most popular, but weather is often severe. Strong winds and smaller packrafts are also used. Total cold temperatures can appear suddenly. foat time is 3–4 days from Surprise Lake A hefty budget and pre-tested skills are to the ocean. Contact the National Park absolutely necessary. Plan on delays getting Service in King Salmon for the latest in and, especially, getting out. The river is information and always be prepared for dynamic; conditions often change rapidly. the unexpected. Safety Concerns for Backcountry Travelers The Alaska Peninsula’s backcountry provides these symptoms: shivering, numbness, slurred access to millions of acres of wilderness speech, loss of coordination, drowsiness and and limitless possibilities for adventure and exhaustion. Avoid hypothermia by eating exploration. With these opportunities come plenty of high-calorie foods, drinking plenty great responsibility to maintain the safety of of water, and staying dry. Layer clothing your group, yourself, wildlife, and the land. appropriately for your level of KOPSHEVER NPS/D. Planning ahead will help ensure your safety activity to minimize sweating. and enjoyment and that of future visitors. Bears Weather This is bear country! All parklands Weather in all areas of the Alaska Peninsula on the Alaska Peninsula contain can be both sudden and severe. Be prepared substantial populations of brown for extreme conditions at all times of the bears. Avoid close encounters year and have the wisdom to alter, delay, or by remaining aware of your abandon your travel plans if current conditions surroundings at all times. Store or the weather forecast appear ominous. food and garbage properly, and do not approach bears within Hypothermia 50 yards (46 m). See page 13 Hypothermia is the critical lowering of the for more information. body’s core temperature and is signaled by

NASA The Novarupta 21 Alagnak Wild River NPS / R. WOOD Alagnak Wild River is popular with rafters and anglers. Meander After Meander After Meander ALAGNAK RIVER FLOWS THROUGH A land of captivating landscapes, abundant wildlife, and cultural heritage. Meandering down the braided river, you may discover a bald eagle perched atop a spruce tree in the boreal forest, gaze at a moose browsing above the river bank in the wet sedge tundra, or perhaps encounter a brown bear feasting upon spawning salmon.

In Yup’ik, Alagnak means “making mis- takes” or “going the wrong way.” It’s easy to see why. The middle section of river rarely occupies one channel. Many local people call Alagnak the Branch River, because of its branching and meandering nature.

In order to protect the Alagnak’s free- NPS/R. WOOD fowing characteristics, striking scenery, For much of its length, Alagnak River is rarely contained in one channel. diverse wildlife, and cultural history, the ridor; the remaining 17 percent of the lands river the most popular destination for sport upper 67 miles (108 km) were designated within the corridor are privately owned by fshing in Southwest Alaska. a wild river in 1980 by the Alaska National Alaska Natives. Please respect the rights Interest Lands Conservation Act under the and privileges of private land owners. provisions of the 1968 National Wild and Scenic Rivers Act. For centuries people have lived along the Alagnak and depended on the rich natural Alagnak Wild River is part of the National resources for survival. Today, Alaska Wild and Scenic Rivers System. In Alaska, Natives from nearby villages depend 3,210 miles (5,166 km) of protected wild, on the area for subsistence scenic and recreational rivers have been hunting and fshing. The designated. The National Park Service Alagnak River’s wildlife and Class I–III manages approximately 83 percent of the rapids ofer an exciting trip for many river within the Alagnak Wild River cor- boaters, and the abundant fsh make the 22 The Novarupta People and the Alagnak River Alagnak River has been a productive place Alaska Natives continue to own land along your free copy of the Illustrated Guide to to live for thousands of years—home to the Alagnak River, practicing traditional the Cultural History of the Alagnak Wild many people thriving on its bounty. An subsistence activities. As you enjoy the River at go.nps.gov/alagnakhistory. archeological survey conducted in 1997 river, remember those who came before revealed that people have lived along the and respect the special cultural heritage river for the past 8,000 years. of the area.

Some early inhabitants lived in settlements Please do not disturb with as few as four dwellings, while others archeological sites, leave resided in larger villages with as many as artifacts where you fnd 69 houses. From more recent times, the them, and do not camp or remains of an early historic village provide trespass on private property. evidence of a community whose members cached their food in the ground, attended To learn more about the a Russian Orthodox church, and buried people who live and have lived their loved ones in a cemetery. along Alagnak River, download A Subsistence Life

For thousands of years, people inhabited river, people traditionally caught birds and berries, blackberries, blueberries, and many places along Alagnak River such gathered eggs, sour dock, wild celery, and cranberries are gathered and stored for as Alagnag’llug (which is diminutive for fddlehead ferns. At summertime camps, winter. Wild game such as caribou, moose, “teasing cousins”) and Locknuk. Their fsh are gathered for smoking, salting, and bears are hunted. descendants have since moved to small canning, and freezing for the winter. When villages like Kokhanok, Igiugig, and dogs were used as the major mode of trans- In late fall, whitefsh are harvested and Newhalen, but many people still return portation, fsh were stored for them too. stored for the winter. Smelt, trout, and to the area for subsistence purposes. grayling are caught by ice fshing. Trapping Long ago, fsh were stored in underground is still done to provide fur for hats, mittens, Alagnak River provides a place for people pits and were used to make fermented fsh coats, and household use such as throw to thrive in a rural landscape. Along the heads, a delicacy. In the fall season, salmon- rugs and furniture coverings.

Salmon drying on a traditional rack. NPS The Novarupta 23 Neighbors on the Alaska Peninsula

24 The Novarupta U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service

Alaska Peninsula National Wildlife Refuge

This wildlife refuge stretches nearly 340 miles Located approximately 330 miles (547 km) Phone: 907-246-3339 along the Alaska Peninsula and encompasses southwest of Anchorage and 55 miles (89 km) www.fws.gov/refuge/alaska_peninsula/ about 4.3 million acres. Elevations range from south of King Salmon, the refuge is bordered sea level to 8,225 feet (2,507 m) at the summit on the north by the Becharof National Wildlife of Mount Veniaminof. It’s a place of towering Refuge, and to the south it is bisected by Aniak- volcanoes, misty fjords, steep clifs, deep bays, chak National Monument and Preserve. and long beaches that provides important wildlife habitat. Becharof National Wildlife Refuge

Becharof National Wildlife Refuge contains a Located approximately 295 air miles (475 km) Phone: 907-246-3339 variety of landscapes within its 1.2 million-acre southwest of Anchorage and 10 miles (16 km) www.fws.gov/refuge/becharof/ boundary including rolling tundra, wetlands, gla- south of King Salmon, this refuge is situated cial lakes, rivers, rugged clifs and volcanic peaks. between Katmai National Park and Preserve to Land elevations range from sea level to 4,835 feet the north and the Alaska Peninsula Refuge to the (1,474 m) at the summit of Mount Peulik. south.

Alaska Department of Fish and Game

McNeil River State Game Sanctuary

Many of the same conditions that make Katmai To reduce the human impact on bears at McNeil, Phone: 907-267-2189 National Park and Preserve prime bear habitat the Alaska Department of Fish and Game limits http://1.usa.gov/s9aSFI are also found at McNeil River State Game the number of visitors to 10 people per day by Sanctuary. McNeil is located on Katmai’s means of a permit lottery. Permit applications northwest boundary and is famous for its large are due by March 1 and an application fee is brown bear population and for the opportunity required. it afords a small group of visitors to watch bears fshing and interacting in a natural setting.

Alaska State Boroughs

Bristol Bay Borough

Bristol Bay Borough is a rural Alaskan fshing King Salmon, connected to Naknek by the 15.5 Phone: 907-246-4224 community situated at the mouth of Kvichak mile (25 km) Alaska Peninsula Highway, serves www.bristolbayboroughak.us/ and Naknek rivers. The borough includes three as the transportation center and is the site of cities: King Salmon, Naknek, and South Naknek. a former U.S. Air Force Base. South Naknek Commercial fshing, salmon processing, and is a more traditional rural community and is tourism are economic mainstays. The Bristol Bay not connected to the other communities in the salmon fshing industry is one of the largest and borough by road. most valuable in the world. Lake and Peninsula Borough

Lake and Peninsula Borough encompasses near- side, the Alaska Peninsula/Bristol Bay side, and Phone: 907-246-3421 ly 24,000 square miles (62,160 km2)—about the Iliamna Lake/Lake Clark area. Major rivers www.lakeandpen.com size of West Virginia—and stretches from Lake in the area provide outstanding recreational Clark in the north to Ivanof Bay in the south. opportunities and the largest runs of sockeye salmon in the world. Commercial fshing and Incorporated in 1989, the borough includes 17 fsh processing are the borough’s economic communities with a combined population of foundation. about 1,800 people grouped in three distinct geographical areas: the Alaska Peninsula/Pacifc

The Novarupta 25 Cycle of the Salmon 1

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USFWS 5 NPS / R. WOOD Salmon overcome tremendous obstacles in order to reproduce. DURING WINTER, WHEN THE ALASKA ocean. Along this journey, they undergo precise timing and pattern of the migration. Peninsula is locked under ice and snow, many physiological changes to prepare salmon eggs incubate quietly in well for a saltwater existence. Salmon prepare Upon returning to freshwater, salmon oxygenated steams and lakes 1 . Months to enter a totally new environment, with stop eating. 95-99% of spawning salmon before, adult salmon struggled against conditions they cannot know until they get return to the same lakes, rivers, and streams nearly insurmountable obstacles in order there. Substantial changes to the kidneys where they were born. They smell their to spawn. Every stage in a salmon’s life and gills are required for these fsh to way upstream following the odors of the illustrates their ability to survive and their survive the harsh transition from freshwater water they imprinted upon as fry and smolt. drive to reproduce. to the salty ocean. Pigments from salmon fesh are transferred to the skin and eggs. Their bones soften and After incubating, salmon eggs hatch in Salmon spend one to four years in the they develop distinctive humped backs and mid-winter. The larva, called alevins 2 , ocean 5 , depending on the species. Salmon elongated jaws 7 . remain in the nest feeding on a yolk sac still in the ocean are bright and silvery in color attached to their bodies. They may even to hide them from predators like orcas, Female salmon excavate several gravel migrate deeper into the stream gravel for seals, and sharks. In ofshore waters, salm- nests, collectively called a redd. To do protection during this vulnerable period. on are among the most abundant fsh and this, she fans the gravel violently with her use keen eyesight to fnd and catch prey. tail to winnow away sand and silt which Salmon fry 3 emerge from the gravel would smother her eggs. Males and females between April and June. Most salmon live Most salmon are between one and six years release milt and eggs simultaneously. Up in freshwater for one to two years while old when they begin migrating back to to 1,000 eggs are laid in each nest. Salmon feeding on zooplankton. Vertical stripes, the watersheds where they were born 6 . spawn across the Alaska Peninsula from called parr marks, help camoufage them Sockeye salmon may travel 37 miles (60 km) midsummer to fall. They die shortly there- from predators. or more each day during this long journey. after, and nutrients from their decaying Water temperature, ocean currents, day bodies drive the cycle once again 8 . Salmon smolt 4 imprint on their natal length, the earth’s magnetic feld, genetics, streams and lakes while migrating to the and other factors may all determine the 26 The Novarupta Alaska Geographic

Support Alaska’s Public Lands Alaska Geographic is a non-proft bookstore, • Offers youth, family, and adult programs publisher, educator, and supporter of Alaska’s through Alaska Geographic Field Institute magnifcent parks, forests, and refuges. Let courses. Alaska Geographic be your guide to the Last • Collaborates with partners, including land Frontier. Alaska Geographic’s mission is to management agencies, business associates, meaningfully connect people to Alaska’s public and educational organizations. lands because they believe that inspired people • Contributes fnancial support and services become champions of Alaska’s parks, forests to Alaska’s parks, forests, and refuges. and refuges. Alaska Geographic’s work is undertaken with To accomplish their mission, Alaska generous contributions from members and Geographic: donors, as well as income earned from our • Operates bookstores in 30 locations bookstores and other sources. Learn more at statewide, as well as an online store. www.alaskageographic.org. • Publishes books, maps, flms, and free visitor guides.

Katmai Book and Movie A book and movie highlight the spectacular Other books, guides, maps, and flms are avail- resources and history of Southwest Alaska. able online. Please visit http://store.alaskageo- Get them both from the Alaska Geographic graphic.org. bookstore.

Katmai National Park and Preserve by Andromeda Romano-Lax explores the fascinating story behind the world’s largest volcanic eruption of the twentieth century. This cataclysmic event not only transformed a remote corner of South- west Alaska, it brought this dynamic and culturally rich landscape to the attention of the outside world.

Ends of the Earth: Alaska’s Wild Peninsula, narrated by N. Scott Momaday, contains stunning high-defnition footage of Katmai and Aniakchak, exotic lands of towering volcanoes and the greatest concentration of brown bears on Earth. The flm captures the essence of Southwest Alaska—-both its wildness and its historic past. Become a Member of Alaska Geographic

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The Novarupta 27 28 homesite along Brooks River. and reconstruction asemi-subterranean of by recounting the discovery, excavation, Don Dumond illuminates this rich history years. In StoryofaHouse, archeologist able inthe Brooks River for nearly 5,000 People have usedthe rich resources avail- human activity for millennia. coastline, have beenabustling hub of the Brooks River area and Katmai’s Pacifc thousands people. places, Certain of like you are following inthe footsteps of you visit Alagnak, Aniakchak, or Katmai, seem like untouched wilderness, but when THE ALASKA PENINSULA MAY Learn about Katmai’s People, Past and Present to feethearea andabandontheirhomesinJune,1912.Thisisthevillageasitlooked1913. wasonceamajorcenter oftradeontheAlaskaPeninsula.VolcanicKatmai Village unrest forced residents

The Novarupta Explore Katmai’s HumanHistory

this area home. altered the lives the of people who called Novarupta-Katmai eruption irreparably ties on the Alaska Peninsula. The 1912 displaced people—even whole communi- the past, volcanic eruptions disrupted and twined with the geologic landscape. In The human story Katmai isalso of inter

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ebooks. these books go to http://go.nps.gov/katmai_ go.nps.gov/katmaihistory For more on Katmai’s human history visit Eruption inthe20thCentury. First Hand Accounts oftheLargest Volcanic Learn about their experiences inWitness:

NPS and historyoftheKatmairegion. heartbeat oftheecology, economy, culture, economic fabricofthearea. Salmonare the are intricatelywovenintotheculturaland of acomplexecologicalsystem,andthey other salmon.Thesefshare thefoundation ing andrearing habitatfor sockeyeand Riverprotect criticalspawn- Alagnak Wild Katmai NationalParkandPreserve and Why? Becausethesalmonwillsoonarrive. working womenandmenfocktothearea. fshing boatsare movedinto thewaterand with activity. Afteralongwinterindrydock, Every spring,theBristolBayregion bustles Katmai’s Heartbeat and to download

NPS/M. HORNER