The Novarupta a Trip Planning and Informational Guide to Katmai National Park ANELA RAMOS ANELA RAMOS NPS/ROY WOOD What’S Inside: Brooks Camp

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The Novarupta A trip planning and informational guide to Katmai National Park ANELA RAMOS ANELA RAMOS NPS/ROY WOOD What’s Inside: Brooks Camp...... 6 Bearcam...... 12 Katmai Origins...... 14 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY NATIONAL ROY WOOD Three National Parks, Many Amazing Experiences Alagnak Aniakchak Katmai Wild River National Monument and Preserve National Park and Preserve

Unbounded by dams or artificial channels, Midway down the wild, remote, and On June 6th, 1912 residents of the north- the Alagnak River meanders its way from mostly roadless Alaska Peninsula lies ern Alaska Peninsula experienced one of National Park Service Welcome to Katmai Country headwaters in the Aleutian Range across one of the nation’s most fascinating, but the largest volcanic eruptions in recorded U.S. Department of the Interior Welcome to the Alaska Peninsula! well as their perseverance through periodic the Alaska Peninsula to Bristol Bay and the least visited, volcanic features. Aniakchak history. The eruption at Novarupta times of difficulty and survival. This story Bering Sea. The upper 69 miles of river are National Monument and Preserve volcano sent ash over 100,000 feet into the The Alaska Peninsula is a vast and beautiful continues today as Alaska Natives maintain designated a national wild river, meaning surrounds a large caldera formed by the atmosphere, led to the collapse of Mount landscape where the National Park Service their traditional lifeways in the momentum free flow, no dams, and little human impact. collapse of a 7,000 foot volcano. Set inland Katmai, and created the Valley of Ten Alagnak Wild River (NPS) has the privilege of managing Katmai of an ever-changing world. Their in a place of frequent clouds and fierce Thousand Smokes. Aniakchak National Monument & National Park and Preserve, Aniakchak connection to these lands is profound and From the time of the earliest Alaskans, the storms, Aniakchak was unknown to all Preserve National Monument and Preserve, and the worthy of our unwavering support and river has given much to those willing to but area Natives until the 1920s, and had Katmai National Monument was Katmai National Park and Preserve Alagnak Wild River. Regardless of your respect. learn its ways. In summer, the river teems its last eruption in 1931. Nestled inside established in 1918 to protect the interests, these areas offer a diversity of Katmai was declared a national monument with salmon. Falls brings migrating caribou the caldera is Surprise Lake, a remnant of volcanically devastated region surrounding in 1918; Aniakchak in 1978. The Alaska outstanding Alaskan experiences. It is through the efforts of many dedicated and berries. It traverses the beautiful Alaska a much larger lake that catastrophically Mount Katmai and the Valley of Ten National Interest Lands Conservation Act of individuals from diverse walks of life, over Peninsula, providing opportunities to drained in a massive flood. Warm springs, Thousand Smokes. Today, Katmai 1980 established Alagnak Wild River, while The geologies of these places are at once the years and down to the present, that has experience the unique wilderness, wildlife, melting snow, and glaciers feed Surprise National Park and Preserve is still an active Katmai and Aniakchak were expanded to both ancient and new. The parks’ diverse ensured that wildlife remains abundant and and cultural heritage of the area. Lake, which in turn gives rise to the volcanic landscape, but it also protects include national preserve areas. Katmai was landscapes comprise expansive mountains; diverse across the Alaska Peninsula. Today, Aniakchak Wild River. 9,000 years of human history as well as also redesignated a national park. Together, active volcanoes; glaciers; a wild and all three NPS units continue to support This river is one of the most popular important habitat for runs of salmon and these lands encompass nearly five million beautiful seacoast; and freshwater rivers world class fisheries and wildlife viewing sport fishing destinations in all of Alaska. This narrow stretch of the Alaska Penin- the thousands of brown bears that feed on acres of unique landscapes managed by the and lakes. The cataclysmic eruption of opportunities. To be able to observe the Alagnak’s extraordinary rainbow trout, sula boasts a rich human history. Volca- them. National Park Service. Novarupta in 1912 took place long ago Alaskan brown bear doing its thing in char, grayling, and abundant salmon are noes, earthquakes, and tsunamis have when compared to a human lifespan, but is its natural environment is a testament some of the most attractive sport fish in the interrupted the human story, yet the land Katmai is a rugged and diverse land where Mailing Address geologically recent. Such single events can to the priorities of a nation, and a gift to PO Box 7 world, and the river has become the most abides as a wild place where people can bears are plentiful, salmon leap water- have profound impacts, for example the humankind today. We hope you might King Salmon, AK 99613 popular fly-in fishing destination in all of experience independence and interde- falls on their journey to spawn, steaming resulting ash layer covered everything for have the chance to come and experience Southwest Alaska. pendence. Life has persisted here in the volcanoes serve as a reminder of the earth’s Park Headquarters miles around and even today life continues the sights, sounds and feel of these special face of catastrophic change. power, and the stories of cultural change Phone: 907-246-3305 to recover from the effects of the eruption. places for yourself; if you do you are sure to See pages 22-23 for more information. continue to live on. Fax: 907-246-2116 take back memories that will last a lifetime. See pages 20-21 for more information. Human habitation of this region goes back See pages 6-18 for more information. Web many thousands of years and the resulting Mark Sturm Alagnak: www.nps.gov/alag history speaks of thriving communities, as Superintendent Aniakchak: www.nps.gov/ania Katmai: www.nps.gov/katm

Contents: Southwest Alaska’s Park Lands...... 2-3 Katmai and the National Park Idea...... 14-15 Essential Information...... 4 Fishing Information...... 17 Getting Here, Getting Around...... 5 Backcountry Travel...... 18 Brooks Camp...... 6 Aniakchak National Monument...... 20-21 Camping at Brooks Camp...... 8 Alagnak Wild River...... 22-23 Brooks Camp Map...... 9 Park Neighbors...... 24-25 Bear Viewing...... 10-11 Cycle of the Salmon...... 26

Live Bearcams...... 12 Alaska Geographic Association...... 27 M. FITZ Glacially shrouded volcanoes, like Mount Mageik, form the geologic backbone of the Alaska Peninsula. Safe Travels in Bear Country...... 13 Exploring the Human History of Katmai...... 28 Katmai National Park is the site of the largest volcanic eruption of the 20th century (see pages 14-15). 2 The Novarupta The Novarupta 3 Essential Information Getting Here, Getting Around

Dates and Hours of Operation anywhere on the Alaska Peninsula. See page Only non-guided sport hunting is allowed in Alagnak, Aniakchak, and Katmai are open 24 13 for more bear safety information. the Alagnak Wild River corridor. In all other Quick Tips for Visiting Three of the Most Remote hours a day every day of the year. Most services areas, sport hunting is prohibited. All hunting such as lodges and air taxis operate seasonally. Visitors to Brooks Camp are required, upon activities require a license and are subject to National Park Units arrival, to participate in a brief, mandatory bear National Park Service and Alaska Department MANY PEOPLE CONSIDER SOUTH- Aniakchak, and Katmai—provide a variety Brooks Camp and other locations along the National Park Service and concessionaire safety talk at the Brooks Camp Visitor Center. of Fish and Game regulations and restrictions. west Alaska’s remoteness to be an of commercial visitor services, including Naknek River drainage can be reached by operated facilities at Brooks Camp, in Katmai attractive characteristic, but the remote transportation, guided day trips, guided both motorized and non-motorized boats National Park, are open from June 1 through Food Storage Weather nature of the area necessitates careful September 17. All food, beverages, garbage, equipment used Even during summer, visitors to the Alaska multi-day trips, overnight accommodations from Naknek and King Salmon, located to cook or store food, and/or any odorous item Peninsula should be prepared for cool and planning in order to overcome certain and food services. Commercial partners west of the Katmai. Boats can access the Camping must be properly stored in an approved bear- stormy conditions with frequent strong winds. logistical and accessibility challenges. are authorized by permit to operate in Alagnak River from towns and villages Within 1.5 miles (2.4 km) of Brooks Falls (i.e., resistant container (BRC). BRCs include those Clear skies occur about 20 percent of days. Unlike most national parks in the United the parks. A complete list of services is along Bristol Bay and the Kvichak River. the Brooks Camp Developed Area), camping approved by the Department of Interior and In general, visitors to the Aniakchak area States, Alagnak, Aniakchak, and Katmai available at go.nps.gov/AKComm. is only allowed at Brooks Camp Campground. Agriculture‘s Interagency Grizzly Bear Com- should expect significantly cooler, stormier, are almost exclusively accessed by plane Aniakchak National Monument and Camping is permitted elsewhere in Katmai with mittee http://igbconline.org/certified-products- and windier conditions. Wherever you travel, or boat. Much of this area is rarely visited Katmai National Park and Preserve and Preserve one exception (see page 18) and on any public list/ and additional items listed by the Alaska remain aware of the dangers and treatments and opportunities for incredible wilderness Alagnak Wild River lands within Aniakchak and Alagnak. Department of Fish and Game (www.adfg. for hypothermia and be equipped with experiences abound. Other areas, such as Aniakchak is one of the least visited and alaska.gov/index.cfm?adfg=livingwithbears. appropriate clothing and shelter. Brooks Camp, are more easily accessed and Katmai is located on the Alaska Peninsula, remote of all national park areas in the Fees and Reservations bearcontainers). Public food caches are avail- have amenities like lodging and hot meals. west of the Shelikof Strait and Afognak United States. It is located on the Alaska There are no entrance fees associated with able at Brooks Camp. Pets and Kodiak islands. The Alagnak River Peninsula about 450 miles southwest of public use of Alagnak, Aniakchak, and Katmai. Pets are not allowed within 1.5 miles (2.4 km) The National Park Service headquarters for is located on the Alaska Peninsula about Anchorage and 150 miles southwest of Hunting of Brooks Falls (i.e., the Brooks Camp 260 miles southwest of Anchorage. King Salmon. Reservations and fees are required for camping Sport hunting is permitted in the preserve areas Developed Area). In other areas, pets must be Alagnak, Aniakchak, and Katmai is located in Brooks Campground and must be made by only of Katmai National Park and Preserve and leashed or physically restrained at all times. about 290 miles southwest of Anchorage Most destinations in the Katmai region, telephone or online prior to arrival at Brooks Aniakchak National Monument and Preserve. in King Salmon. Regularly scheduled including Brooks Camp and Alagnak River, Most people access Aniakchak via char- Camp. See pages 8-9 for more camping info. commercial flights to King Salmon (AKN) may be directly accessed via air taxi flights tered airplanes departing from King are available from Ted Stevens Anchorage originating from Anchorage, Dillingham, Salmon and other nearby towns and Reservations and fees also apply for public use International Airport (ANC) via Peninsula Homer, Iliamna, King Salmon, Kodiak, villages. Boats can also reach the Pacific of Fure’s Cabin at the northeast corner of the Airlines and Alaska Airlines. Soldotna, and other nearby towns and coast of the monument and preserve. A few Bay of Islands on Naknek Lake. Reservations villages. adventurous groups have also hiked into can be made through www.recreation.gov. These parklands are open year-round for the Aniakchak Caldera via a cross-country the adventurous. Numerous companies— Boats can access Katmai from villages and route from Port Heiden. Visitor Centers over 115 in and around Alagnak, towns along the Pacific Ocean coastline. The Brooks Camp Visitor Center, open June 1–October 1, is the point of entry for all visitors to Brooks Camp. A park ranger is on duty to provide information, campground check-in, bear safety talks, and backcountry Weather Information for King Salmon, Alaska planning. An Alaska Geographic Association (AGA) bookstore offers books, maps, and other Month Average High Average Low Average Precip. Katmai-related items. January 22.8°F (-5.1°C) 8.0°F (-13.3°C) 1.03” (26.2 mm)

Located next door to the King Salmon Airport, February 23.8°F (-4.6°C) 7.4°F (-13.7°C) .72” (18.3 mm) the King Salmon Visitor Center provides March 32.0°F (0°C) 15.1°F (-9.4°C) .79” (20.1 mm) information on the many federal public lands of Southwest Alaska, particularly those in the April 41.3°F (5.2°C) 24.9°F (-3.9°C) .94” (22.9 mm) Bristol Bay area. A large collection of films is May 52.1°F (11.2°C) 34.8°F (1.6°C) 1.35” (34.3 mm) available for viewing and an AGA bookstore June 59.5°F (15.3°C) 42.2°F (5.7°C) 1.70” (43.2 mm) sells maps, charts, videos, posters, clothing and July 63.8°F (17.7°C) 47.5°F (8.6°C) 2.15” (54.6 mm) more. Contact the King Salmon Visitor Center at 907-246-4250. August 62.2°F (16.8°C) 47.4°F (8.6°C) 2.89” (73.4 mm) September 54.9°F (12.7°C) 40.3°F (4.6°C) 2.81” (71.4 mm) Bears October 40.5°F (4.7°C) 26.0°F (-3.3°C) 2.10” (53.3 mm) This is bear country! All park lands on the Alas- ka Peninsula contain substantial populations of November 30.5°F (-0.8°C) 15.9°F (-8.9°C) 1.54” (39.1 mm) brown bears. Be prepared for bear encounters December 25.1°F (-3.8°C) 9.3°F (-12.6°C) 1.39” (35.3 mm) NPS/M. FITZ 4 The Novarupta The Novarupta 5 Please Remember from page 6... Welcome To Brooks Camp Ranger-Led Programs: Two additional platforms, Falls and Riffles, are Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes Tour Evening Slide Show Programs located at Brooks Falls. See pages 10-11 for A park ranger leads this scenic bus ride Join a park ranger for an illustrated program more information. through some of Katmai’s spectacular back- offering information and unique perspectives country. After lunch at The Robert F. Griggs on Katmai’s special features, history, and wild- Visitor Center Visitor Center overlooking the Valley of Ten life. Inquire at the visitor center for times and From June 1 through October 1, a ranger is Thousand Smokes, you can take the optional, topics. The program lasts 45 minutes. on duty to provide information, campground ranger-led hike into the valley. The hike is three check-in, and backcountry planning. A book- miles (4.8 km) round-trip, with 1000 feet (305 Cultural History Walk store (see page 27) is also available offering m) of elevation change. Sturdy boots, water, A park ranger-naturalist leads this short .25 books, maps, and other Katmai-related items. rain gear and warm clothes are recommended. mile (0.4 km) walk about the human history Total trip time is 7–8 hours. Inquire at Brooks of Brooks River Archeological District and Na- Hiking Lodge for reservations or contact Katmailand tional Historic Landmark, including archeologi- A variety of hiking opportunities are available at 1-800-544-0551 and www.katmailand.com. cal studies and traditional Alaska Native uses at Brooks Camp. Check out the brochure on of plants and animals. The walk lasts about an hiking at Brooks Camp: https://www.nps.gov/ hour and leads to a reconstructed traditional katm/planyourvisit/upload/Brooks-Camp- Native dwelling (see photo below). Hiking-Trails.pdf D. KOPSHEVER Brooks Camp is renowned for its remarkable bear viewing opportunities. For more information about bear viewing at Brooks Camp, See page 10. Brooks Lodge NPS

Lodging, meals, flights, and NPS The Bear Essentials: many other services at Brooks NPS Brooks Camp attracts people from all over Naknek Lake (the largest lake within any Camp are provided by Creature Comforts: Braving Alaska’s Infamous Insects Katmailand, the park’s authorized conces- the world to fish for trout and salmon, to national park in the United States). From RAIN, COLD WINDS, AND THE ful souvenirs of happy times in the great One of the most despised insects around view brown bears, explore the Valley of Ten June 1 to September 17, the National Park sioner. unrelenting onslaught of biting insects. outdoors. Brooks Camp, however, is the white sock. Thousand Smokes, and to learn about the Service operates a visitor center, ranger sta- Enjoying the beauty of Alaska does indeed White socks are a species of small biting For more information on Katmailand’s sport long human history of the area. tion, campground, and auditorium. Several come at a price. These parasitic invertebrates can inspire black fly, nicknamed for characteristic fishing, bear viewing, air services, and lodg- ranger-led programs are led each day (see horror stories, so what do you need to white stripes on their legs. White sock ing opportunities go to www.katmailand. Brooks Camp is situated at the mouth page 7 for more information). com or call 1-800-544-0551. While photographers are busy lining up the know in order to survive with your skin swarms can be brutal and persistent in of the Brooks River, along the shore of perfect shot at Brooks Falls, black flies and intact? For starters, don’t plan on being seeking out flesh, working their way under mosquitoes may be working at an equally attacked by mosquitoes alone. As the saying clothing until they are successful. Please Remember... Pets time. Caches for gear are located at the Brooks frantic pace to find the perfect shot into the goes, to everything there is a season. The Pets are not allowed within 1.5 miles Camp Visitor Center, Lake Brooks, and in the photographers’ skin. It is not uncommon same goes for Alaska’s resident inverte- Female flies actually rasp into the skin of Upon Your Arrival (2.4 km) of Brooks Falls (i.e., the Brooks Camp campground. to leave Brooks Camp with new belts and brates. their hosts, unlike mosquitoes that merely Visitors to Brooks Camp are required to begin Developed Area). anklets of swollen, itchy insect bites—pain- pierce the skin with their needle-like their stay by checking in at the visitor center Camping proboscis. White sock bites can be for a brief bear safety talk outlining park regu- Food Storage Within 1.5 miles (2.4 km) of Brooks Falls (i.e., At Katmai, mosquitos and black flies are identified by a characteristic red incision lations. Special regulations designed to keep Do not carry food, beverages, or any other the Brooks Camp Developed Area), camping typically most abundant in late spring and mark in the middle of the swollen bite area. bears and people safe apply to Brooks Camp. odorous items around Brooks Camp. All food is allowed only in the Brooks Camp Camp- early summer. No-see-ums (very small Other tell-tale signs include blood stains and drink, except water, must be stored inside ground. Consult pages 8-9 for more informa- biting midges) peak in August. Population left behind on the insides of T-shirts after a of a building or designated food cache. Eat Accessibility tion. sizes do vary each year depending on stealthy attack. and drink only in buildings or designated picnic While most trails around Brooks Camp and the weather conditions and temperatures, trail to Brooks Falls are wheelchair accessible, areas. Only water can be consumed outside of Bear Viewing so no-see-ums could reign supreme one Later, the bite area can become swollen, they are unpaved and frequently muddy. The designated picnic areas. Three viewing platforms are ideally situated to year and seem nonexistent the next. somewhat painful, and intensely itchy. walk to Brooks Falls can be arduous for some provide exceptional opportunities for observing Furthermore, everyone reacts differently Relief from biting insects usually arrives on people with limited mobility. A limited number Gear and Equipment Storage bears. The Lower River Platform is located at of wheelchairs are available to borrow from the All gear and equipment must be attended or the mouth of Brooks River. See Please Remem- to insect bites and thus there are differing days when the weather is windy, rainy, and M. FITZ opinions on which insect is peskiest. just generally dismal. visitor center. properly stored inside of a building. Gear or ber on page 7... Biting insects like mosquitoes and black flies are equipment cannot be left unattended at any ubiquitous in Katmai. Expect to encounter them. See Comforts on page 16... 6 The Novarupta The Novarupta 7 Brooks Camp Campground Campground Reservations

Reservations are required for the Brooks Camp usually full, must be prepared to backcountry The only developed campground in Katmai Campground from May to October. Reserva- camp outside of the Brooks Camp Developed National Park and Preserve is located at Brooks tions can be made beginning January 5 each Area – defined as the area within 1.5 miles (2.4 Camp. year. Telephone and internet access are not km) of Brooks Falls. available at Brooks Camp, so campground res- With its wildlife viewing opportunities, access ervations must be made prior to your arrival. Reservations cost $12.00 per person per night to Naknek Lake, and stunning views of nearby from June 1–September 17 and $6 per person mountains, the Brooks Camp Campground During the month of July, campsites may be re- per night in May and September 18 to October NPS/M. FITZ Brooks Camp Campground is surrounded by an is considered by many to be one of the top served for a maximum of seven nights, cumu- 31. Please visit www.recreation.gov or call 877- latively. Campers arriving without a reservation, 444-6777 (from the United States), 518-885- electric fence. It is bear-resistant, but not bear- campgrounds in North America. proof. Campers must take precautions so that bears especially during July when the campground is 3639 (international). are not tempted to enter the campground. Because of the high numbers of bears in the Brooks Camp area, the campground is specially NPS/M. FITZ NPS/M. FITZ Brooks Camp Area Map managed to minimize human–bear conflicts. Facilities in the campground include cooking and eating shelters as well as food and gear caches. Campers must take special precautions to reduce odors from food, garbage, and Cooking which also contains a trash receptacle. In order North To Dumpling Mountain anything else that could appeal to a bear’s All cooking and eating must take place within to prevent curious bears from investigating, 1.5 mi (2.4 km) to overlook strong sense of smell. one of the three shared cooking shelters. (As please store any unused equipment in the gear Map not to scale 4 mi (6.4 km) to summit 0 . 3 m i ( 5 k ) a safety precaution, campers arriving by air storage cache adjacent to the food cache. A Campground reservations are required and with portable camp stoves should bring empty fireproof locker is available for storage of all must be made in advance. The campground fuel bottles and purchase fuel at the Brooks flammable materials, such as stove fuel. Float plane has a limit of 60 people. See page 9 for more Lodge Trading Post.) Wash dishes and cooking Auditorium Access information. utensils at the water spigot near the food Electrified Fence km) 0.4 i ( m storage cache. Brooks Camp Campground is enclosed within 5 2 Visitor . Campfires an electric fence designed to deter bears from 0 Campfires are allowed in the three designated Food and Gear Storage entering. The fence is not bear proof, although Center s Rive fire rings near each cooking shelter. Only All food, refuse, and any other odorous items once “shocked,” bears tend to avoid any ok r Cultural Site dead and downed wood may be collected for (e.g., toothpaste, deodorant, etc.) must be subsequent contact with such fences. ro Brooks Lodge B

firewood. Please do not cook over open fires. stored in the centrally located food cache

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How Far is the Walk to... Falls

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i m 1 . Platform 0 Naknek Rifﬂes Lake Platform B ˇ r 0.6. 6m im/1 k o i (1 o m km ks ) Fall

Visitor Center Camp Brooks Campground River Brooks “The Corner” Cultural Site Lower River Platform Falls Trail Outhouse Falls Platform Lake Brooks Lower River s T ra Platform Bus to Valley of 0.3 mi 0.2 mi 0.1 mi 0.3 mi 0.6 mi 1.2 mi 1.2 mi il Visitor Center 0 Ten Thousand (0.5 km) (0.3 km) (0.2 km) (0.5 km) (1 km) (1.9 km) (1.9 km) mi ( 0.1 0.2 km) Smokes meets Brooks Camp 0.3 mi 0.4 mi 0.4 mi 0.6 mi 0.9 mi 1.4 mi 1.5 mi 0 here. Campground (0.5 km) (0.6 km) (0.6 km) (1 km) (1.4 km) (2.3 km) (2.4 km) Brooks River 0.2 mi 0.4 mi 0.3 mi 0.1 mi 0.4 mi 0.8 mi 1.1 mi 0 Bear Jam! “The Corner” (0.3 km) (0.6 km) (0.5 km) (.2 km) (0.6 km) (1.3 km) (1.8 km) Bear activity may delay crossing the bridge over d a 0.25 mi 0.55 mi 0.45 mi 0.55 mi 0.85 mi 1.45 mi 1.55 mi Brooks River. Be prepared to wait in windy and/or o R Cultural Site 0 (0.4 km) (0.9 km) (0.7 km) (0.9 km) (1.4 km) (2.3 km) (2.5 km) rainy conditions and allow yourself ample time to y e l meet meal services and/or your departing flight. l

Lower River 0.3 mi 0.6 mi 0.1 mi 0.4 mi 0.3 mi 0.9 mi 1 mi a

0 V Platform (0.5 km) (1 km) (0.2 km) (0.6 km) (.5 km) (1.4 km) (1.6 km) Falls Trail 0.6 mi 0.9 mi 0.4 mi 0.7 mi 0.3 mi 0.6 mi 0.7 mi 0.7 mi (1.1 km) 0 Lake Outhouse (1 km) (1.4 km) (0.6 km) (1.1 km) (0.5 km) (1 km) (1.1 km) Brooks 1.2 mi 1.4 mi 0.8 mi 1.3 mi 0.9 mi 0.6 mi 1.3 mi Falls Platform 0 (1.9 km) (2.3 km) (1.3 km) (2.1 km) (1.4 km) (1 km) (2.1 km) Float plane To Valley of access Ten Thousand Smokes 1.2 mi 1.5 mi 1.1 mi 1.4 mi 1 mi 0.7 mi 1.3 mi 23 mi (37 km) Lake Brooks 0 (1.9 km) (2.4 km) (1.8 km) (2.3 km) (1.6 km) (1.1 km) (2.1 km)

8 The Novarupta The Novarupta 9 Bear Viewing from page 10... ter windy, cool, and wet weather as well as because of bear activity in close proxim- Bear Viewing at Brooks Camp Everyone who arrives at Brooks Camp is biting insects like mosquitos and black flies. ity to the bridge. To minimize the chance required to begin their stay by checking in of missing an outgoing flight or a meal at the Brooks Camp Visitor Center for a Weather and bear encounters can some- at Brooks Lodge, give yourself some brief bear safety talk outlining park regula- times delay the arrival and departure of extra time to cross the bridge in July and Bears Galore tions and proper behavior at Brooks Camp. float planes, so it is usually best to incorpo- September. BROOKS CAMP IS WORLD FAMOUS rate some extra time into your itinerary in for its bear viewing opportunities. It is one Be sure to dress and pack in anticipation of case of any delays. More people visit Brooks Camp in July than of the most accessible and popular bear diverse and changing weather conditions. any other month. If you come at this time, watching sites in Katmai National Park. Whether staying for just a few hours or for The floating bridge across Brooks River expect crowded conditions at the Brooks Watching bears at Brooks Camp is an several days, you should expect to encoun- can temporarily close to foot and vehicle Falls Platform. unforgettable experience, but timing your trip properly is critical because the overall Other Bear Viewing Opportunities in Katmai number of bears as well as their general behavior varies with the seasons. A bear’s waking hours are often dominated by their search for food. Outside of their denning Where the Wild Things Are: A Bear Viewing Calendar for When can bears be seen at Brooks Camp? season, bears predictably congregate in food Katmai National Park and Preserve rich areas throughout the Katmai region. Some Bear viewing at Brooks Camp is best from areas of Katmai National Park, like the food Location June July August September very late June through the end of July and (primary food) rich Pacific coast, support some of the highest again in September. At other times of the densities of bears ever documented. Other year, like June and August, less food is areas of the park with little food, such as the Brooks Camp (salmon) available along the Brooks River so bears Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes, support only a aren’t seen as frequently. few bears in any season. Hallo Bay (vegetation,

Springtime is a lean season for bears who NPS/M. FITZ If you know what foods bears prefer to eat and clams) Watching a mother bear play with her cub is an unforgettable experience. when that food is most abundant, accessible, live in the interior of Katmai National Park. Geographic Little food is typically available to bears in The behavior and appearance of the bears In July, many of the bears that cannot and nutritious, then you will be able to find Harbor (salmon) the spring so bears are dispersed through- also varies with the season. In July, more compete for fishing spots at Brooks Falls many areas in Katmai to observe these fascinating animals. Many guided trips to observe out the area and are only infrequently seen aggressive interactions between bears will fish the lower half of the Brooks River. Swikshak bears in Katmai’s backcountry are available. See at Brooks Camp in May and June. are observed, especially at the beginning At this time of the year, females with cubs Lagoon page 5 for information on commercial services. (vegetation) of the month. Bears are also thinner and are usually easiest to see near the mouth of When the salmon begin to arrive in late many will shed their fur at this time. In the Brooks River. Moraine Creek/ Funnel Creek June, bears migrate to the Brooks River. September, bears at Brooks Camp are (salmon) Bears can be seen fishing at Brooks Falls typically less aggressive towards each After the salmon begin to spawn and die in and in the lower Brooks River throughout other. In contrast to early summer, bears in late summer, bear activity is concentrated = Few Bears; = Some Bears; = Many Bears the month of July. Mid-July is typically September and later in the fall are usually in the lower half of the Brooks River. In when the largest number of bears can be fat and covered with a new coat of fur. some years a few bears may still fish at seen along the river. In late July, bears begin Brooks Falls and the upper Brooks River to disperse to feed in other areas. Where can bears be seen at Brooks Camp? in September and October, but most will The brown bears of Katmai are eating patrol the slower moving waters of the In August, salmon are beginning to spawn machines. A Katmai bear must eat a lower Brooks River as they search for dead in the Brooks River, but they are less full year’s worth of food in 6-8 months and dying salmon that collect in the slow concentrated, remain energetic, and are to ensure its survival. Katmai’s bears moving currents and eddies near the river no longer migrating. This creates difficult predictably congregate around rich and mouth and bridge. fishing conditions for bears and almost all concentrated sources of food. At Brooks of the bears will leave the area. Like June, Camp this means salmon. Three wildlife viewing platforms can be there are typically days in August when no found along the river – one at Brooks Falls, bears are seen at Brooks Camp. During the peak of the salmon migration in one downstream of the falls, and one at July, bears will fish for salmon all along the the mouth of Brooks River. Each one can By late August, many salmon have already Brooks River, but bears will be especially offer unique bear watching experiences in spawned and will begin to die. As the fish concentrated at Brooks Falls. The falls season. weaken and die, bears will again migrate creates a temporary barrier to migrating to the Brooks River to feed. In September, salmon which gives some bears the oppor- Other Considerations bears are usually present in high numbers tunity to catch many fish with little effort. Brooks Camp is a unique place with special

as they search for dead and dying salmon. Typically, the largest and most dominant regulations designed to protect bears and NPS/C. TURNER bears along the river fish at Brooks Falls. people. See Bear Viewing on page 11... Exceptional wildlife watching opportunities can be found throughout Katmai, like Hallo Bay. 10 The Novarupta The Novarupta 11 Bearcam! You are in Brown Bear Country

Watch Live Streaming Video of Brooks River and Its Famous Bears Prepare For Bear Encounters Anywhere You Go Watch live footage of brown bears fishing Bears are fascinating animals that add are usually noisier and smellier than a single for salmon anywhere with an internet excitement and risk to any trip in bear person. Therefore, bears often become aware connection. Katmai’s bearcams are live, country. Katmai National Park and Pre- of groups of people at greater distances, and freely accessible, streaming webcams serve, and the surrounding lands in south- because of their cumulative size groups of people are also passively intimidating to bears. from Brooks River. Cameras are located west Alaska, support some of the highest Hiking and traveling in groups is typically the at Brooks Falls, at the outlet of the Brooks densities of bears on earth, so the chances best way to increase your level of safety in bear River, near the summit of Dumpling of encountering a bear in Katmai are very country. Mountain, and even underwater. high. Before you begin your visit, learn as much about bears as you can. You need Remain Calm Don’t miss a second of the action. Go to not fear bears, but you do need to respect A bear may approach closely or rear up on its go.nps.gov/bearcam and follow the links to them. Follow these general guidelines dur- hind legs to identify you. Back away slowly, = Few Bears; watch the world famous bearcams. ing your stay and don’t hesitate to ask your moving out of its line of travel if necessary. guide or a ranger for more information. You may need to leave a trail temporarily to Join the Bearcam Community Don’t Get Too Close allow a bear to pass. If a bear follows you, stop Connect with the growing online Avoid Surprise Encounters and hold your ground. If a bear continues to community of Katmai and brown bear Take appropriate steps to avoid surprising for Comfort! approach, make noise, wave your arms, and try stewards. Discuss recent and past bearcam bears. Where visibility is limited or where windy to appear as large as possible. events with other fans, share your conditions prevail, make noise to warn bears of your approach. The human voice is the best Give Bears Space If A Bear Makes Contact, Play Dead thoughts on national parks and wildlife Streaming webcams at Brooks River take you right tool for this. Bears may not associate other Do not approach bears within 50 yards (46 Fall to the ground on your stomach with your conservation, and upload your favorite to the action at Brooks Falls. Watch the cams at noise makers, such as bells, with people. If m), or as otherwise directed by National Park legs apart. Lock your hands behind your neck bearcam screen shots for others to enjoy. go.nps.gov/bearcam. you see a bear that is unaware of you and/or Service personnel. Some bears need more to protect your neck and face. If you do get On social media, use #bearcam and join the the park’s calendar of events (go.nps.gov/ Funding for the installation, maintenance, far away, back away slowly and quietly while space than others. To lessen your impact rolled over, keep rolling until you’re face down real-time chat at the bottom of any bearcam KATM_calendar) or social media pages for and technical support for the bearcams is observing the bear’s behavior. on the animals, avoid actions that interfere again. Stay quietly in this position until the page on www.explore.org/bears. the live chat schedule. proudly provided by explore.org. Explore.org with bear movement, behavior, or foraging bear has left the area. If the attack continues is a philanthropic organization with a mission Avoid Food Sources That Attract Bears activities. Please check with a park ranger if long after you have assumed the protective Ranger Live Chats to champion the selfless acts of others, cre- Bears can be especially protective of you’re unsure about a situation. In general, the position, fight back vigorously. Throughout the year, rangers host live web ate a portal into the soul of humanity, and concentrated food sources like salmon and greater the distance between yourself and a chats on the bearcams to discuss the inspire lifelong learning. Katmai was granted animal carcasses, so be especially cautious in bear, the safer you can be. For More Information and Regulations biology, behavior, and ecology of bears $150,000 by explore.org to further fund areas where bears are likely to gather and feed. Special regulations designed to keep bears and the salmon they depend on. Check educational efforts related to the bearcams. Stay far away from animal carcasses. Bears Hike and Travel in Groups and people safe apply in Katmai. See page 6, often defend these aggressively. Groups of four or more people are typically pages 17-18, and Katmai’s bear safety pages very safe in bear country. Groups of people at go.nps.gov/Katmai_bearsafety for more in- Bears of Brooks River ebook Do Not Run depth information. Running may encourage a bear to pursue you. Every bear at Brooks River has a story. Since Bears can run faster than 30 mph (50 km/hr). 2001, biologists at Katmai have conducted You cannot outrun them. If you are charged, in-depth monitoring sessions along Brooks try to appear non-threatening. Stand your River to record data on bear and human use ground and speak to the bear in a calm voice. of the area. Over time, this information has Bears sometimes come within a few feet of grown into one of the most comprehensive people before stopping. data sets about bear use of a particular place ever recorded and provides you with the opportunity to learn more about the lives of these amazing animals.

Brown Bears of Brooks River, a free ebook, provides life history and identification information on the most commonly seen Brooks River bears as well as stories about bear research, biology, and behavior. Visit go.nps.gov/katmai_ebooks to download the latest edition of Brown Bears of Brooks River. NPS 12 The Novarupta The Novarupta 13 Katmai and the National Park Idea Griggs from page 14... It was as though all the steam engines in the world, assembled together, had popped their safety valves at once and were letting off steam in concert.”

Griggs discovered the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes, an amazing 46 mi2 (120 km2) steaming landscape. Later that night, he found sleep impossible—his mind restless with thoughts. Griggs later described himself as “overawed” but he “had seen enough to know that we had accidentally discovered one of the great wonders of the world.”

What to do with such a place? Citing Yellowstone as an example Griggs answered, “I recognized at once that the Katmai district must be made a great national park accessible to all the people.” Through the National Geographic Society, Griggs lobbied for permanent protection of the Katmai region. Two years after the discovery of the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes, Katmai National Monument was

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY NATIONAL established by presidential proclamation. The Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes filled its discoverers with wonder, awe, curiosity, and a sense of stewardship. The National Park Service enters its second Robert Griggs: Katmai’s First Champion century in 2017, but the national park idea was born long before the creation of the On June 6, 1912, Novarupta Volcano graphic Society into the heart of the area. “The sight that flashed into view...was one National Park Service, in the minds and exploded in a remote valley on the He discovered far more than imagined. of the most amazing visions ever beheld by actions of citizens. It lived in the mind of northern Alaska Peninsula. For 60 hours, mortal eye. The whole valley as far as the Robert Griggs during his explorations of NPS/M. FITZ ash and pumice darkened skies across In July 1916, Griggs and his team suffered eye could reach was full of hundreds, no Volcanic gas vents, or fumaroles, in the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes formed where water became Katmai. He “found” Katmai and became the region, pyroclastic flows and surges through exhaustive slogs in quicksand, thousands – literally tens of thousands – of superheated by heat trapped within the 1912 ash flow. Today, fossil fumaroles are recognized by their Katmai’s first modern day champion. colorful halos. Most of these fumaroles cooled by the late 1920s. buried Ukak River valley, and the summit punishing wind storms, and two smokes curling up from its fissured floor. Robert Griggs’s discovery of and of Mount Katmai collapsed forming a 2000 treacherous climbs to reach the rim of See Griggs on page 15... subsequent efforts to protect the Valley feet (600 m) deep caldera. Mount Katmai’s newly formed caldera. On Gilbert Grosvenor of Ten Thousand Smokes exemplifies the July 31, the day after their second Mount Robert Griggs received enthusiastic support national park idea. This idea continues The ash and pumice released during the Katmai ascent, Griggs continued toward from Gilbert H. Grosvenor, then President of the to live in the hearts and minds of eruption represents over 3 mi3 (13.5 km3) Katmai Pass. Temporarily leaving behind National Geographic Society, to explore Katmai. people all over the world. How will you of magma beneath the earth, 30 times more one companion who “was incapacitated by Did Grosvenor plant the seeds of the national #FindYourPark? park idea in Griggs’s mind? magma than the 1980 Mount Saint Helens too many flapjacks,” he and L.G. Folsom eruption. The Novarupta-Katmai eruption traversed a deeply gullied notch between Shortly before Griggs discovered the grandeur was the largest of the 1900s and one of the Mount Trident and Mount Mageik. of Katmai, Grosvenor discovered the importance five largest in recorded history. of national parks. In 1915, Stephen Mather Gilbert H. Grosvenor Just as Griggs was ready to turn back, he invited Grosvenor to the Sierra Nevada in a bid to garner support for the fledgling national The eruption created a harsh land of aban- caught sight of a small volcanic steam vent park idea. Grosvenor was overwhelmed by the trip and quickly became a staunch supporter of doned villages, ghost forests, quicksand, in Katmai Pass. After warming his hands national parks. He helped Mather draft the Organic Act of 1916 which established the National and ash covered mountains. Even so, a few in this small fumarole, he spotted another, Park Service. people were eager to explore the trans- much larger one nearby. Curiosity hastened formed terrain. Curious about vegetative him forward. In the January 1917 issue of Griggs was likely familiar with Grosvenor’s support of national parks since the entire April 1916 recovery in the wake of such a large scale National Geographic Magazine, Griggs E.C. KOLB / NAU CLINE LIBRARY edition of National Geographic Magazine was devoted to national parks. Grosvenor also fully NPS/B. PLOG eruption, Robert Griggs organized and led described what he saw next. Robert Griggs (1881-1961) led several National Several hundred feet of ash and pumice cover the supported Griggs’s efforts to protect Katmai. Today, Grosvenor Camp and Lake Grosvenor bear Geographic Society expeditions that brought world- Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes near Novarupta. his name—a tribute to an influential national park supporter. expeditions funded by the National Geo- wide attention to the Katmai region. 14 The Novarupta The Novarupta 15 Photographing a Wild Heritage Gone Fishing?

location. If minimum distances exist for them in engaging in inappropriate approaching wildlife, follow them. or harmful behavior. Many people Fishing in the Katmai Region • In the absence of management authority, unknowingly endanger themselves and A visit to Alagnak and Katmai offers tre- spot bears for you. At minimum, keep 50 yards https://youtu.be/snKzEskc_OY and in the use good judgment. Treat the wildlife, animals. mendous fishing opportunities for rainbow between yourself and all bears. Stop fishing Brooks Camp Visitor Center. This video, written plants and places as if you were their • Report inappropriate behavior to proper trout, arctic char, grayling, and salmon. and move away well before a bear approaches and produced by experienced local fishing guest. authorities. Don’t argue with those who Katmai’s runs of salmon, in particular, also within 50 yards, or you may find yourself in a guides, succinctly highlights proper catch and • Prepare yourself and your equipment don’t care; report them. situation with a fish on the line and a bear in release techniques. You are encouraged to enjoy Katmai’s wildlife, support some of the greatest gatherings but please do it with respect and care. National for unexpected events. Avoid exposing • Be a good role model, both as a pursuit. of brown bears on earth. No matter when parks are symbols of our wild heritage. The yourself and others to preventable photographer and a citizen. Educate Regulations or where you choose to fish, extra care forethought of past generations has given mishaps. others by your actions; enhance their Catch & Release Ethics Fishing in Katmai, Aniakchak, and the Alagnak and responsibility are necessary to protect us the special places we enjoy today. Help understanding. Many areas in the Katmai region experience is subject to Alaska Department of Fish and protect and preserve the natural wonders of Individual: Expertise and Responsibility people, wildlife, and the experience. heavy fishing pressure each year. Fish are often Game (ADF&G) regulations and restrictions. Katmai, Aniakchak, and the Alagnak for the • Treat others courteously. Ask before This copyrighted information has been Fishing Around Bears caught multiple times per season. Therefore, Additional federal regulations apply to Brooks future by maintaining standards of ethical joining others already shooting in an reprinted with permission from the North When salmon spawning activity peaks in a anglers must release fish as quickly and gently River. Alaska state fishing licenses are required. photography—it’s up to each of us. area. American Nature Photography Association. For stream, bears and anglers compete for the as possible to ensure their continued survival. For more fishing information, ask a park ranger • Tactfully inform others if you observe more information, please visit www.nanpa.org. same resources. Expect to spend more time out or visit the ADF&G website at www.adfg.state. The North American Nature Photography Asso- of the water than in, and be prepared to give Avoid playing a fish to exhaustion. As a fish is ak.us/. ciation (NANPA) encourages adherence to the up your fishing hole to a bear at some time landed, keep it in the water when removing following Principles of Ethical Field Practices: during your trip. the hook. Fish can quickly suffocate when removed from water, especially after battling Environment: Knowledge of Subject and Splashing fish sound like food to bears. Bears the forces of rod and reel. Use barbless hooks Place will often move in your direction to investigate as much as possible. They are easier to remove • Learn patterns of animal behaviors so as a fish on a line. Always be prepared to cut or and less injurious to fish. not to interfere with animal life cycles. break your fishing line, so that you can free the • Do not distress wildlife or their habitat. fish and move out of the water until the bear The slime on fish helps to protect it from Respect the routine needs of animals. passes. Never let a bear acquire a fish from disease and parasites. Handling a fish roughly, • Use appropriate lenses to photograph you. with dry hands, or dragging it onto the shore wild animals. If an animal shows stress, removes this slime and reduces its chances for move back and use a longer lens. It is easy to become so engaged in fishing, survival. • Acquaint yourself with the fragility of that you forget to be alert for bears. They are the ecosystem. Stay on trails that are surprisingly quiet and difficult to see in dense A short video, Letting Go: The Art of Catch and intended to lessen impact. grass or tall brush, so always have someone Release, is available to watch online at

Social: Knowledge of Rules and Laws • When appropriate, inform managers or other authorities of your presence

and purpose. Help minimize cumulative NPS/M. FITZ If people behave consistently, then animals may learn to behave consistently around people. Your potential impacts and maintain safety. impact on animals can be minimized by photographing from predictable places like the wildlife viewing • Learn the rules and laws of the platforms at Brooks Camp.

Comforts continued from page 7... insects play in the ecosystem. Male mosqui- Fortunately, skies around Brooks Camp are tos and black flies are pollinators. They all clear for only 20 percent of the summer. serve as food sources for other animals. The best defense against the insect mobs is Furthermore, they respond more quickly to to cover up. Many people report that insect environmental changes than vertebrates do, repellent containing DEET is not always which can help provide early detection of effective. Therefore, it is wise to invest in ecological changes. a good head net, wear long sleeved shirts, and be prepared to tuck your pant legs into Regardless of their ecological importance, your socks on particularly buggy days. the insects of Katmai provide visitors with something else: stories to take back home— It may be difficult to see any value in the battle scars, even—to remind us that the Black fly larvae live in clean and cold flowing water Class Insecta after being harassed by a beauty of Alaska can’t be won without before they pupate into aerial adults. Early in cloud of black flies or mosquitoes, but persevering through hardships, however summer, they are not hard to find on rocks and logs

in Katmai’s streams. consider the indispensable role these large, or small, they may be. NPS/ROY WOOD 16 The Novarupta The Novarupta 17 Backcountry Travel Explore the Savonoski Loop Magnificent lakes, rivers, and mountains await Paddlers should exercise caution to avoid these formation. Public use of Fure’s Cabin in Bay of exploration on the Savonoski Loop, an 80 mile potential hazards and practice Leave No Trace Islands is available by permit. Reservations and (129 km) backcountry canoe or kayak trip. skills used elsewhere. permits are issued through www.recreation. The trip generally takes four to ten days to gov. To read more about the Savonoski Loop complete, depending on weather conditions Equipment rentals, outfitters, and guides may and other boating opportunities in Katmai, and paddlers’ experience. be available locally. Contact the King Salmon please visit go.nps.gov/KATMboating. Visitor Center at 907-246-4250 for more in- Most paddlers begin at Brooks Camp and The 80 mile (129 km) Savonoski Loop. travel to the North Arm of Naknek Lake and Bay of Islands where rugged topography and an intricate shoreline invite further exploration. At historic Fure’s Cabin, a 1.5 mile (2.4 km) portage leads to Lake Grosvenor. After reaching Lake Grosvenor, paddlers usually continue southeast on the lake to its outlet. After reaching Savonoski River, paddlers are swiftly carried to the Iliuk Arm of Naknek Lake.

NPS/M. FITZ Bears are commonly seen along the route. Hikers often find challenge, adventure, unique geology, and surreal beauty in the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. In July, many paddlers avoid camping along Savonoski River, as it is particularly popular Logistics Leave No Trace with bears fishing for salmon. Strong winds Permits Leave No Trace is a national and international and cold water can create dangerous Permits are not required for backcountry travel program designed to assist outdoor enthusiasts conditions at any time. Down trees form or camping, but you are encouraged to submit with their decisions about how to reduce sweepers and strainers in Savonoski River. a backcountry itinerary at the Brooks Camp their impacts when they hike, camp, picnic, and King Salmon visitor centers. In cases of snowshoe, run, bike, hunt, paddle, ride River Crossings in the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes emergency, these itineraries give park rangers horses, fish, ski or climb. The program strives The Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes poses example, can only be forded in a few places. • Release your pack’s belt buckle and a point of reference to begin a search and to educate all those who enjoy the outdoors special challenges for backcountry travelers. If you cannot find a safe crossing, then you loosen shoulder straps so you can drop rescue. about the nature of their recreational Suspended volcanic ash and glacially-derived should not attempt to cross. You may also your pack easily. impacts as well as techniques to prevent and sediments in river waters often make water need to wait a day or longer until lower water • Cross early in the morning when runoff Camping minimize such impacts. Leave No Trace is best depths impossible to estimate, and most of levels permit safe crossing. from glaciers is low. Camping is allowed anywhere on public lands understood as an educational and ethical the rivers in the Valley are confined to narrow • Allow yourself a retreat. Don’t commit to within Aniakchak National Monument and program, not as a set of rules and regulations. gorges that are deceptively deep and swift. Follow these tips when crossing: one route. Preserve and Alagnak Wild River. At Katmai, no Hikers must be especially cautious when • Watch the water’s surface and cross • Use a hiking pole or stick to help steady camping is permitted within 1.5 miles (2.4 km) Leave No Trace information is rooted in choosing a place to cross the Valley’s rivers and where you see small ripples, not waves. yourself and gauge the water’s depth. of Brooks Falls except within the Brooks Camp scientific studies and common sense. The creeks. The River Lethe and Knife Creek, for • Wear shoes while crossing. Campground. Seasonal camping restrictions message is framed under seven Leave No Trace may apply to other areas of Katmai. Please visit Principles: Below: Hikers can cross River Lethe in very few places. High and sediment-laden water often hide steep drop-offs and gorges (see inset at right). go.nps.gov/KATMbackcountry for the latest information. 1. Plan Ahead and Prepare NPS/M. FITZ

Campsites must be relocated at least 2 miles 2. Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces Backcountry campers should consider using portable electric fences in areas with high densities (3.2 km) after 14 consecutive days in one of bears. location. When choosing a campsite, follow 3. Dispose of Waste Properly Leave No Trace guidelines. Food, trash, and High Water all odorous items must be carried and stored 4. Leave What You Find Drop Off Level in a bear-resistant container (BRC). A limited Attention Hallo Bay supply of BRCs are available to borrow at the 5. Minimize Campfire Impacts River Gorge Brooks Camp and King Salmon visitor centers. Campers: Hanging food is not encouraged as trees of 6. Respect Wildlife appropriate height are not usually available. To ensure bears’ free access to prime feeding Typical Water 7. Be Considerate of Others sites and to reduce the risk of bear/human Level Maps conflicts, camping within the core Hallo Bay This copyrighted LNT information has been Meadows is closed from April 1st through Maps are available from the USGS Map Store reprinted with permission from the Leave No Trace (store.usgs.gov). The Brooks Camp and King Center for Outdoor Ethics. For more information, October 31st annually. For more information, Salmon visitor centers (see page 4) maintain a please visit www.lnt.org. please visit go.nps.gov/KATMbackcountry.

limited selection of topographic maps as well. NPS/M. FITZ 18 The Novarupta The Novarupta 19 Aniakchak National Monument and Preserve Through the Gates: Rafting Aniakchak Wild River Congress designated Aniakchak River a national wild river in 1980. Spectacular scenery and remoteness make rafting this river a rewarding experience. From Surprise Lake, the river flows a peaceful mile (1.6 km) to the Gates. The river moves swiftly through this narrow gorge in the caldera wall, and large rocks demand precise maneuvering. A gradient of 75 feet per mile (14.2 m/km) makes this section challenging.

After a more gentle 10 miles (16.1 km)

NPS/J. MILLER rafters arrive at the confluence with Hidden Vent Mountain (middle foreground) in the Aniakchak Caldera is one of the more recent reminders of Aniakchak’s active volcanism. Creek where car-sized boulders, abrupt bends, and a narrow bed requiring extreme caution. After 5 more miles (8 km), the river A Remote and Wonderful Land slows as it meanders toward the Pacific ANIAKCHAK IS OUT THERE, wide, 2,500 feet (770 m) deep caldera was flows. At 2.5 miles long, Surprise Lake is Ocean and the seals, sea otters, bald eagles, really out there. It lies 450 miles south left in the eruption’s wake. Since then, all that remains of the once larger lake. and sea birds of Aniakchak Bay. Bears can of Anchorage on the roadless Alaska subsequent eruptions created cinder cones, Catastrophic change has repeatedly altered be seen all along the river.

Peninsula. Because of its remote location lava flows, and explosion pits that dot the the face of the landscape, but that is only HAMON NPS/T. and notoriously bad weather, Aniakchak is caldera floor. Aniakchak’s most recent one of the many things to discover at Are you contemplating the trip? Aniakchak Rafters must negotiate car-sized boulders in The Gates of the Aniakchak Wild River. one of the least visited units of the national eruption occurred in early May, 1931. Aniakchak. River challenges even the most experienced Bring durable, field tested equipment. park system. However, the monument’s When you are in the caldera, you feel like river runners. Only a few parties float the Inflatable rafts 12–13 feet (4 m) long with extraordinary landscape make it a truly you are inside of a volcano. Only a few dozen people per year visit river each year, mostly in July. Aniakchak’s rowing platforms are most popular, but unique place to experience. making solitude easy to find. It is rich weather is often severe. Strong winds and smaller packrafts are also used. Total Aniakchak’s caldera was once partly filled with wildlife and fish, and archeological cold temperatures can appear suddenly. float time is 3–4 days from Surprise Lake Aniakchak is a vibrant reminder of Alaska’s with a large lake, similar to Crater Lake in excavations have revealed a substantial A hefty budget and pre-tested skills are to the ocean. Contact the National Park location on the volcanically active Ring Oregon. Eventually, a weaker portion of record of human history in the area. Of absolutely necessary. Plan on delays getting Service in King Salmon for the latest of Fire. About 3,400 years ago, a 7,000 the caldera rim collapsed. The resulting course, there is always the volcano. If you in and, especially, getting out. The river is information and always be prepared for feet (2150 m) volcano collapsed during outflow eroded the rim to create the Gates visit be prepared for the worst, but expect dynamic; conditions often change rapidly. the unexpected. a massive eruption. A six-mile (10 km) through which the Aniakchak River now to experience the best of Alaska. Safety Concerns for Backcountry Travelers Ancestral Surprise Lake once stood as The Alaska Peninsula’s backcountry provides speech, loss of coordination, drowsiness and much as 500 feet (160 m) above the access to millions of acres of wilderness exhaustion. Avoid hypothermia by eating floor of Aniakchak Caldera. It was es- and limitless possibilities for adventure and plenty of high-calorie foods, drinking plenty timated to drain at the incredible rate exploration. With these opportunities come of water, and staying dry. Layer clothing 3 of 8,238,000 feet3 (240,000 m ) per great responsibility to maintain the safety of appropriately for your level of activity to second. The lake disappeared within a your group, yourself, wildlife, and the land. minimize sweating. KOPSHEVER NPS/D. few hours after water broke through the Planning ahead will help ensure your safety Gates on the caldera rim. and enjoyment and that of future visitors. Bears This is bear country! All park lands Weather on the Alaska Peninsula contain Weather in all areas of the Alaska Peninsula substantial populations of brown can be both sudden and severe. Be prepared bears. Avoid close encounters for extreme conditions at all times of the by remaining aware of your year and have the wisdom to alter, delay, or surroundings at all times. Store abandon your travel plans if current conditions food and garbage properly, and or the weather forecast appear ominous. do not approach bears within 50 yards (46 m). See page 13 for Hypothermia more info. Hypothermia is the critical lowering of the body’s core temperature and is signaled by

these symptoms: shivering, numbness, slurred NASA NPS/T. HAMON NPS/T. 20 The Novarupta The Novarupta 21 Alagnak Wild River People and the Alagnak River Alagnak River has been a productive place Alaska Natives continue to own land along your free copy of the Illustrated Guide to to live for thousands of years—home to the Alagnak River, practicing traditional the Cultural History of the Alagnak Wild many people thriving on its bounty. An subsistence activities. As you enjoy the River at go.nps.gov/alagnakhistory. archeological survey conducted in 1997 river, remember those who came before revealed that people have lived along the and respect the special cultural heritage river for the past 8,000 years. of the area.

Some early inhabitants lived in settlements Please do not disturb with as few as 4 dwellings, while others archeological sites, leave resided in larger villages with as many as artifacts where you find 69 houses. From more recent times, the them, and do not camp or remains of an early historic village provide trespass on private property. evidence of a community whose members cached their food in the ground, attended a To learn more about the Russian Orthodox church, and buried their people who live and have lived loved ones in a cemetery. along Alagnak River, download NPS / R. WOOD Alagnak Wild River is popular with rafters and anglers. A Subsistence Life For thousands of years, people inhabited river, people traditionally caught birds and berries, blackberries, blueberries and cran- Meander After Meander After Meander many places along Alagnak River such gathered eggs, sour dock, wild celery and berries are gathered and stored for winter. as Alagnag’llug (which is diminutive for fiddlehead ferns. At summertime camps, Wild game such as caribou, moose, and ALAGNAK RIVER FLOWS THROUGH A land of captivating landscapes, abundant teasing cousins) and Locknuk. Their fish are gathered for smoking, salting, bears are hunted. wildlife, and cultural heritage. Meandering descendants have since moved to small canning, and freezing for the winter. When down the braided river, you may discover villages like Kokhanok, Igiugig and dogs were used as the major mode of trans- In the late fall, whitefish are harvested a bald eagle perched atop a spruce tree in Newhalen, but many people still return to portation, fish was stored for them too. and stored for the winter. Smelt, trout and the boreal forest, gaze at a moose browsing the area for subsistence purposes. grayling are caught by ice fishing. Trapping above the river bank in the wet sedge Long ago, fish was stored in underground is still done to provide fur for hats, mittens, tundra, or perhaps encounter a brown bear Alagnak River provides a place for people pits and was used to make fermented fish coats and household use such as throw feasting upon spawning salmon. to thrive in a rural landscape. Along the heads, a delicacy. In the fall season, salmon rugs and furniture coverings. Salmon drying on a traditional rack. In Yup’ik, Alagnak means “making mis- takes” or “going the wrong way.” It’s easy to see why. The middle section of river rarely occupies one channel. Many local people call Alagnak the Branch River, because of its branching and meandering nature.

In order to protect the Alagnak’s free-flow- NPS/R. WOOD ing characteristics, striking scenery, diverse For much of its length, Alagnak River is rarely contained in one channel. wildlife, and cultural history, the upper 67 the corridor are privately owned by Alaska most popular destination for sport fishing miles were designated a wild river in 1980 Natives. Please respect the rights and in Southwest Alaska. by the Alaska National Interest Lands Con- privileges of private land owners. servation Act under the provisions of the 1968 National Wild and Scenic Rivers Act. For centuries people have lived along the Alagnak and depended on the rich natu- Alagnak Wild River is part of the National ral resources for survival. Today, Alaska Wild and Scenic Rivers System. In Alaska, Natives from nearby villages own land 3,210 miles of protected wild, scenic and along the river and still depend recreational rivers have been designated. on the area for subsistence The National Park Service manages hunting and fishing. The approximately 83 percent of the river Alagnak River’s wildlife and Class I–III rap- within the Alagnak Wild River corridor; the ids offer an exciting trip for many boaters,

remaining 17 percent of the lands within and the abundant fish make the river the NPS 22 The Novarupta The Novarupta 23 Neighbors on the Alaska Peninsula U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service

Alaska Peninsula National Wildlife Refuge

This wildlife refuge stretches nearly 340 miles Located approximately 330 miles (547 km) Phone: 907-246-3339 along the Alaska Peninsula and encompasses southwest of Anchorage and 55 miles (89 km) www.fws.gov/refuge/alaska_peninsula/ about 4.3 million acres. Elevations range from south of King Salmon, the refuge is bordered on sea level to 8,225 feet (2,507 m) at the summit the north by the Becharof National Wildlife Ref- of Mount Veniaminof. It’s a place of towering uge, and to the south it is bisected by Aniakchak volcanoes, misty fjords, steep cliffs, deep bays National Monument and Preserve. and long beaches that provides important wildlife habitat. Becharof National Wildlife Refuge

Becharof National Wildlife Refuge contains a Located approximately 295 air miles (475 km) Phone: 907-246-3339 variety of landscapes within its 1.2 million-acre southwest of Anchorage and 10 miles (16 km) www.fws.gov/refuge/becharof/ boundary including rolling tundra, wetlands, gla- south of King Salmon, this refuge is situated cial lakes, rivers, rugged cliffs and volcanic peaks. between Katmai National Park and Preserve to Land elevations range from sea level to 4,835 feet the north and the Alaska Peninsula Refuge to the (1,474 m) at the summit of Mount Peulik. south.

Alaska Department of Fish and Game

McNeil River State Game Sanctuary

Many of the same conditions that make Katmai To reduce the human impact on bears at McNeil, Phone: 907-267-2189 National Park and Preserve prime bear habitat the Alaska Department of Fish and Game limits http://1.usa.gov/s9aSFI are also found at McNeil River State Game the number of visitors to 10 people per day by Sanctuary. McNeil is located on Katmai’s means of a permit lottery. Permit applications northwest boundary and is famous for its large are due by March 1 and an application fee is brown bear population and for the opportunity required. it affords a small group of visitors to watch bears fishing and interacting in a natural setting.

Alaska State Boroughs

Bristol Bay Borough

Bristol Bay Borough is a rural Alaskan fishing King Salmon, connected to Naknek by the 15.5 Phone: 907-246-4224 community situated at the mouth of Kvichak mile (25 km) Alaska Peninsula Highway, serves www.bristolbayboroughak.us/ and Naknek rivers. The borough includes three as the transportation center and is the site of cities: King Salmon, Naknek, and South Naknek. a former U.S. Air Force Base. South Naknek Commercial fishing, salmon processing, and is a more traditional rural community and is tourism are economic mainstays. The Bristol Bay not connected to the other communities in the salmon fishing industry is one of the largest and borough by road. most valuable in the world. Lake and Peninsula Borough

Lake and Peninsula Borough encompasses side, the Alaska Peninsula/Bristol Bay side, and Phone: 907-246-3421 nearly 24,000 square miles—about the size of Iliamna Lake/Lake Clark area. Major rivers www.lakeandpen.com West Virginia—and stretches from Lake Clark in in the area provide outstanding recreational the north to Ivanof Bay in the south. opportunities and the largest runs of sockeye salmon in the world. Commercial fishing and Incorporated in 1989, the borough includes 17 fish processing are the borough’s economic communities with a combined population of foundation. about 1,800 people grouped in three distinct geographical areas: the Alaska Peninsula/Pacific

24 The Novarupta The Novarupta 25 Cycle of the Salmon Alaska Geographic Association 1 USFWS Support Alaska’s Public Lands 8 2 Alaska Geographic is a non-profit bookstore, • Offers youth, family, and adult

USFWS publisher, educator, and supporter of Alaska’s programs through Alaska Geographic magnificent parks, forests, and refuges. Let Field Institute courses. Alaska Geographic be your guide to the Last • Works with partners, including Frontier. Alaska Geographic’s mission is to land management agencies, meaningfully connect people to Alaska’s public business associates, and educational lands because they believe that inspired people organizations. become champions of Alaska’s parks, forests • Contributes financial support and and refuges. services to Alaska’s parks, forests, refuges, and other public lands. 3 To accomplish their mission, Alaska 7 Geographic: Alaska Geographic’s work is undertaken with • Operates bookstores in 30 locations generous contributions from members and statewide, as well as an online store. donors, as well as income earned from our bookstores and other sources. Learn more at • Publishes books, maps, films, and free www.alaskageographic.org. visitor guides. Katmai Book and Movie

4 A book and movie highlight the spectacular Other books, guides, maps, and films are avail- 6 resources and history of southwest Alaska. able online. Please visit http://store.alaskageo- Get them both from the Alaska Geographic graphic.org. bookstore.

USFWS 5 NPS / R. WOOD Katmai National Park and Preserve by Salmon overcome tremendous obstacles in order to reproduce. Andromeda Romano-Lax explores the ocean. Along this journey, they undergo and other factors may all determine the DURING WINTER, WHEN THE ALASKA fascinating story behind the world’s Peninsula is locked under ice and snow, many physiological changes to prepare for precise timing and pattern of the migration. largest volcanic eruption of the twentieth salmon eggs incubate quietly in well a saltwater existence. Salmon prepare to century. This cataclysmic event not only oxygenated steams and lakes (1). Months enter a totally new environment, whose Upon returning to freshwater, salmon transformed a remote corner of south- before, adult salmon struggled against conditions they cannot know until they get stop eating. 95-99% of spawning salmon west Alaska, it brought this dynamic and nearly insurmountable obstacles in order there. Substantial changes to the kidneys return to the same lakes, rivers, and streams culturally rich landscape to the attention to spawn. Every stage in a salmon’s life and gills are required for these fish to where they were born. They smell their of the outside world. illustrates their ability to survive and their survive the harsh transition from freshwater way upstream following the odors of the drive to reproduce. to the salty ocean. water they imprinted upon as fry and smolt. Ends of the Earth: Alaska’s Wild Peninsula, Pigments from salmon flesh are transferred narrated by N. Scott Momaday, contains stunning high-definition footage of Katmai After incubating, salmon eggs hatch in Salmon spend one to four years in the to the skin and eggs. Their bones soften and and Aniakchak, exotic lands of towering mid-winter. The larva, called alevins (2), ocean (5), depending on the species. they develop a distinctive humped backs an volcanoes and the greatest concentration of remain in the nest feeding on a yolk sac still Salmon in the ocean are bright and silvery elongated jaws (7). brown bears on Earth. The film captures the attached to their bodies. They may even in color to hide them from predators like essence of southwest Alaska—-both its wild- migrate deeper into the stream gravel for orcas, seals, and sharks. In offshore waters, Female salmon excavate several gravel ness and its historic past. protection during this vulnerable period. salmon are among the most abundant fish nests, collectively called a redd. To do and use keen eyesight to find and catch this, she fans the gravel violently with her Become a Member of Alaska Geographic Salmon fry (3) emerge from the gravel prey. tail to winnow away sand and silt which between April and June. Most salmon live would smother her eggs. Males and females A membership to Alaska Geographic supports benefits include: bookstores in visitor centers throughout in freshwater for one to two years while Most salmon are between one and six years release milt and eggs simultaneously. Up Alaska’s parks, forests, and refuges. Alaska • Exclusive Alaska Geographic raven/bear the U.S. feeding on zooplankton. Vertical stripes, old when they begin migrating back to to 1,000 eggs are laid in each nest. Salmon Geographic has given $20 million in financial pin; new members only. • 10% discount on most Alaska called parr marks, help camouflage them the watersheds where they were born (6). spawn across the Alaska Peninsula from support and services to Alaska’s public lands, • 15% discount at Alaska Geographic’s Geographic field courses from predators. Sockeye salmon may travel 37 miles (60 km) mid summer to fall. They die shortly thanks to the generous support of members bookstores and online store or more each day during this long journey. thereafter, and nutrients from their like you. • Complimentary subscription to Alaska Salmon smolt (4) imprint on their natal Water temperature, ocean currents, day decaying bodies drive the cycle once again To become a member, please visit magazine www.alaskageographic.org.Membership • Discounts at partner organization streams and lakes while migrating to the length, the earth’s magnetic field, genetics, (8). 26 The Novarupta The Novarupta 27 28 NPS NPS/M. HORNER home site along Brooks River. and reconstruction asemi-subterranean of by recounting the discovery, excavation, Don Dumond illuminates this rich history years. In StoryofaHouse, archaeologist able inthe Brooks River for nearly 5,000 People have usedthe rich resources avail- human activity for millennia. coastline, have beenabustling hub of the Brooks River area and Katmai’s Pacific thousands people. places, Certain of like you are following inthe footsteps of you visit Alagnak, Aniakchak, or Katmai, seem like untouched wilderness, but when THE ALASKA PENINSULA MAY Learn about Katmai’s People, Past and Present The Novarupta Explore Katmai’s HumanHistory flee thearea andabandontheirhomesinJune,1912.Thisisthevillageasitlooked1913. wasonceamajorcenter oftradeontheAlaskaPeninsula.VolcanicKatmai Village unrest forced residents to home. Learnabout their experiences in the lives the of people who called this area upta-Katmai eruption irreparably altered on the Alaska Peninsula. The 1912Novar displaced people and even whole cultures past, volcanic eruptions disrupted and twined with geology the of land. In the The human story Katmai isalso of inter - - katmaihistory. Katmai’s human history at go.nps.gov/ gov/katmai_ebooks and learnmore about theseDownload books at http://go.nps. Volcanic Eruptioninthe20thCentury. Witness: First Hand Accounts oftheLargest and historyoftheKatmairegion. heartbeat oftheecology, economy, culture, economic fabricofthearea. Salmonare the are intricatelywovenintotheculturaland of acomplexecologicalsystem,andthey other salmon.Thesefishare thefoundation ing andrearing habitatfor sockeyeand Riverprotect criticalspawn- Alagnak Wild Katmai NationalParkandPreserve and Why? Becausethesalmonwillsoonarrive. working womenandmenflocktothearea. fishing boatsare movedinto thewaterand with activity. Afteralongwinterindrydock, Every spring,theBristolBayregion bustles Katmai’s Heartbeat