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The Novarupta National Park Service Park News U.S. Department of the Interior The official newspaper of Katmai National Park and Preserve Aniakchak National Monument and Preserve The Novarupta Alagnak Wild River Issue number 1 OOD W OY R / nps Crater Lake fills Mount Katmai’s (6,476 ft/1,974 m) caldera, formed by the collapse of the mountain’s peak during the 1912 Novarupta eruption. Novarupta and the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes THE LARGEST VOLCANIC ERUPTION OF THE TWENTIETH century took place in Southwest Alaska on June 6, 1912. The erup- tion of Novarupta could be heard as far away as Juneau, Alaska, and Welcome to Katmai the ash cloud that swept to the south plunged the island of Kodiak Country into three days of darkness. Novarupta released over six cubic miles of ash, covering over 40 square miles of a nearby mountain valley to Welcome to Katmai National Park and Preserve, Aniakchak National Monument depths of up to 700 feet, and was ten times more powerful than the and Preserve, and the Alagnak Wild 1980 Mount St. Helens eruption in Washington. River. In these nearly five million acres of remote country, you will discover ancient After the eruption, botanist Dr. Robert F. Griggs led several Nation- lands that are home to abundant wildlife, al Geographic expeditions up the Katmai River valley from Kodiak. a diverse range of habitats, and spectacu- On his second expedition, in 1916, Griggs and his team discovered lar scenery. The Valley of Ten Thousand the steaming “Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes,” which they named Smokes is a graphic reminder of the awe- for the thousands of active fumaroles (vents from which volcanic some power of our changing Earth. gases and steam escape) they found there. These areas, along with the Becharof and Alaska Peninsula National Wildlife Refuges Convinced they had found a spectacle greater than the geysers of OOD W managed by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Ser- Yellowstone, Dr. Griggs and his team lobbied President Woodrow OY R / vice, offer wilderness, solace, recreation, Wilson to preserve the area, and in 1918 Katmai National Monument nps and a livelihood for Native Alaskans and was created. After several boundary adjustments, Katmai is now a commercial fishermen of the area. Villages 4.7 million acre national park and preserve, which encompasses the on the Alaska Peninsula are divided be- Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes and other ecosystems and cultural tween two boroughs—Bristol Bay Borough landscapes critical to the life cycle and lifestyle of Southwest Alaska. and Lake and Peninsula Borough. In the 1950s, scientists concluded that Dr. Griggs’ original belief that If your goal is to view the brown bears Mount Katmai erupted was only partially true. The materials that of Brooks River, please note that past had been building up inside the mountain were actually released patterns show peak bear use of the area through a new, nearby vent aptly named “Novarupta,” or “new in July and September. Bears do visit the eruption.” The empty magma chamber beneath Mount Katmai Brooks River in June and August, but with could not support the overlying 1,000 or so feet of mountain peak; it less frequency and in fewer numbers. Re- fer to the bear viewing calendar on page collapsed inward, forming a spectacular, lake-filled caldera. 3 for more information, and be aware that when bear numbers at Brooks Camp While the many fumaroles Griggs encountered no longer “smoke,” are low, bear viewing opportunities at the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes is still an amazing place to other loations in Katmai may be superb. confront the awesome forces changing our Earth. Today, visitors can experience the valley’s power by traveling the 23-mile road from Katmai, Aniakchak and the Alagnak are Brooks Camp to the Three Forks overlook cabin on a daily bus tour among nearly 400 national park units operated by the concessioner and the National Park Service (NPS) across the nation, ranging from vast in the summer months (see page 4 for more info). wilderness areas to historical sites in urban centers. National parks exist so Y that special places saved by the American To learn more about the eruption’s human ciet O S stories, ask for a free copy people can be experienced by future gen- rical erations. The Alaska Peninsula is home to of Witness, or download O ist H many premier nationally protected park- it—click on “History & iak lands. Enjoy them. Respect them. Protect OD Culture” from the Katmai K them. And “Experience your America.” website homepage at: Top: Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes today showing Novarupta Volcano, the source of the great 1912 eruption, and Mount Griggs in the distance. Ralph Moore www.nps.gov/katm Bottom: Displaced Katmai residents aboard the U.S. Revenue Cutter Manning, Superintendent returning to the Alaska Peninsula from Kodiak to establish a new village (now Perryville). What’s Inside: Bear Viewing…3-4 Alagnak…6 Aniakchak…7 Planning Your Trip…2, 5 (Backcountry) Katmai’s vast wilderness supports a high The headwaters of the Alagnak Wild River lie A stark reminder of the Alaska Peninsula’s Brooks Camp…4, 16 (Map) number of very large brown bears. As bear within the rugged Aleutian Range of neigh- location in the volcanically active “Ring of populations around the world and in North boring Katmai National Park and Preserve. Fire,” Aniakchak National Monument and Camping…4–5 America decline, Katmai provides some of the Meandering west toward Bristol Bay and the Preserve boasts one of the finest examples few remaining unaltered Bering Sea, the Alagnak traverses the beauti- of a dry caldera in the world. Six miles wide Park Neighbors…8–9 (Map) habitats for these ful Alaska Peninsula, providing unparalleled and 2,500-foot deep, Aniakchak Caldera amazing creatures. opportunities to experience the unique is the result of the collapse of a 7,000-foot Maps…8–9, 16 (Brooks Camp) wilderness, wildlife, and cultural heritage of mountain during a massive eruption about Southwest Alaska. 3,500 years ago. Resource Management…10–15 Getting Here, Getting Around: National Park Service U.S. Department of the Interior Quick Tips for Visiting Three of the Most Remote National Park Units Katmai Aniakchak Alagnak National Park and Preserve National Monument and Preserve Wild River Katmai National Park and Preserve Visitors may begin their journey to Katmai Extreme remoteness—450 roadless miles (724 Adjacent to Katmai’s northwest boundary, air Aniakchak National Monument National Park and Preserve in Anchorage, Alaska km) southwest of Anchorage—and notori- taxis to the Alagnak Wild River can be chartered and Preserve where commercial air carriers provide regular ously bad weather make access to Aniakchak from King Salmon, Iliamna, Soldotna, Homer, Alagnak Wild River service to King Salmon, Alaska. King Salmon National Monument and Preserve unpredictable. Anchorage, and other towns and villages. serves as the administrative headquarters for Drop-offs and/or pick-ups may be significantly Katmai was declared a national monu- Katmai, the Alagnak, Aniakchak, and the delayed. Chartered air taxi services are available, Guided rafting and/or equipment for unguided ment in 1918; Aniakchak in 1978. The Alaska Peninsula and Becharof National Wildlife however, from King Salmon and other nearby raft trips on the Alagnak are provided by several Alaska National Interest Lands Conserva- Refuges, and it is from here that many day trips towns and villages. Boats can reach Aniakchak companies in and around the river (see box be- tion Act of 1980 established the Alagnak and extended visits into these areas begin. from villages along the Pacific Ocean coastline. low). Trips generally start at Nonvianuk Lake or Wild River, while Katmai and Aniakchak Kukaklek Lake in Katmai National Preserve. Pick- were expanded to include national pre- Air taxi flights from King Salmon to Brooks Rafters contemplating running the Aniakchak up locations and dates should be coordinated serve areas; Katmai was also redesignated Camp and other locations throughout Katmai River from inside the volcano to the sea should with the transporter. a national park. Together, these parklands National Park and Preserve on float-equipped be experienced and/or coordinate with local or encompass nearly five million acres of planes are available from a variety of local nationwide guiding and outfitting services. pristine wilderness and cultural landscape operators. managed by the National Park Service. The National Park Service maintains no facilities Alternatively, visitors may gain direct access or trails within Aniakchak. Hiking and backpack- Newspaper Editor Visitor Services to Katmai, including coastal areas and Brooks ing conditions may be best on the cinder cones Michael Glore Camp, via air taxis from nearby Alaska towns and ash-covered surfaces of the caldera floor. Numerous companies—approximately and villages such as Iliamna, Homer, or Kodiak. Contributors Left: A male brown bear pursues a female along 132 in and around Katmai, 17 serving Alan Bennett, Peter Hamel, Michael Glore, the trail to Brooks Falls at Brooks Camp in Katmai Aniakchak, and 40 in and around the A 23 mile (37 km) unpaved road connects National Park. Troy Hamon, Sharon Kim, Claudette Alagnak—provide a variety of commercial Brooks Camp to the famed Valley of Ten Thou- Moore, Katie Myers, Daniel Noon, Tammy Center: The jewel-like waters of Surprise Lake await visitor services, including transportation, sand Smokes which, under normal conditions, is Olson, Dale Vinson, Roy Wood the rare visitor to Aniakchak Caldera. guided day use, guided multi-day use, accessible daily by bus, daily, June 1–September overnight accommodations and food 17. For reservations, contact Katmailand, Inc. at Right: Sockeye salmon abound in the Alagnak Wild Mailing Address River—increasingly becoming one of the most popu- service.
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