National Park Service Park News U.S. Department of the Interior

The official newspaper of Katmai National Park and Preserve Aniakchak National Monument and Preserve The Novarupta Alagnak Wild River Issue number 1 ood w oy r / nps Crater Lake fills Mount Katmai’s (6,476 ft/1,974 m) caldera, formed by the collapse of the mountain’s peak during the 1912 Novarupta eruption. Novarupta and the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes THE LARGEST VOLCANIC ERUPTION OF THE TWENTIETH century took place in Southwest Alaska on June 6, 1912. The erup- tion of Novarupta could be heard as far away as Juneau, Alaska, and Welcome to Katmai the ash cloud that swept to the south plunged the island of Kodiak Country into three days of darkness. Novarupta released over six cubic miles of ash, covering over 40 square miles of a nearby mountain valley to Welcome to Katmai National Park and Preserve, Aniakchak National Monument depths of up to 700 feet, and was ten times more powerful than the and Preserve, and the Alagnak Wild 1980 Mount St. Helens eruption in Washington. River. In these nearly five million acres of remote country, you will discover ancient After the eruption, botanist Dr. Robert F. Griggs led several Nation- lands that are home to abundant wildlife, al Geographic expeditions up the Katmai River valley from Kodiak. a diverse range of habitats, and spectacu- On his second expedition, in 1916, Griggs and his team discovered lar scenery. The Valley of Ten Thousand the steaming “Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes,” which they named Smokes is a graphic reminder of the awe- for the thousands of active fumaroles (vents from which volcanic some power of our changing Earth. gases and steam escape) they found there. These areas, along with the Becharof and Alaska Peninsula National Wildlife Refuges Convinced they had found a spectacle greater than the geysers of ood w managed by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Ser- Yellowstone, Dr. Griggs and his team lobbied President Woodrow oy r / vice, offer wilderness, solace, recreation, Wilson to preserve the area, and in 1918 Katmai National Monument nps and a livelihood for Native Alaskans and was created. After several boundary adjustments, Katmai is now a commercial fishermen of the area. Villages 4.7 million acre national park and preserve, which encompasses the on the Alaska Peninsula are divided be- Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes and other ecosystems and cultural tween two boroughs—Bristol Bay Borough landscapes critical to the life cycle and lifestyle of Southwest Alaska. and Lake and Peninsula Borough.

In the 1950s, scientists concluded that Dr. Griggs’ original belief that If your goal is to view the brown bears Mount Katmai erupted was only partially true. The materials that of Brooks River, please note that past had been building up inside the mountain were actually released patterns show peak bear use of the area through a new, nearby vent aptly named “Novarupta,” or “new in July and September. Bears do visit the eruption.” The empty magma chamber beneath Mount Katmai Brooks River in June and August, but with could not support the overlying 1,000 or so feet of mountain peak; it less frequency and in fewer numbers. Re- fer to the bear viewing calendar on page collapsed inward, forming a spectacular, lake-filled caldera. 3 for more information, and be aware that when bear numbers at Brooks Camp While the many fumaroles Griggs encountered no longer “smoke,” are low, bear viewing opportunities at the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes is still an amazing place to other loations in Katmai may be superb. confront the awesome forces changing our Earth. Today, visitors can experience the valley’s power by traveling the 23-mile road from Katmai, Aniakchak and the Alagnak are Brooks Camp to the Three Forks overlook cabin on a daily bus tour among nearly 400 national park units operated by the concessioner and the National Park Service (NPS) across the nation, ranging from vast in the summer months (see page 4 for more info). wilderness areas to historical sites in urban centers. National parks exist so y that special places saved by the American To learn more about the eruption’s human ciet o s stories, ask for a free copy people can be experienced by future gen-

rical erations. The Alaska Peninsula is home to of Witness, or download o ist

h many premier nationally protected park- it—click on “History & iak lands. Enjoy them. Respect them. Protect od

Culture” from the Katmai k them. And “Experience your America.” website homepage at: Top: Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes today showing Novarupta Volcano, the source of the great 1912 eruption, and Mount Griggs in the distance. Ralph Moore www.nps.gov/katm Bottom: Displaced Katmai residents aboard the U.S. Revenue Cutter Manning, Superintendent returning to the Alaska Peninsula from Kodiak to establish a new village (now Perryville). What’s Inside: Bear Viewing…3-4 Alagnak…6 Aniakchak…7 Planning Your Trip…2, 5 (Backcountry)

Katmai’s vast wilderness supports a high The headwaters of the Alagnak Wild River lie A stark reminder of the Alaska Peninsula’s Brooks Camp…4, 16 (Map) number of very large brown bears. As bear within the rugged Aleutian Range of neigh- location in the volcanically active “Ring of populations around the world and in North boring Katmai National Park and Preserve. Fire,” Aniakchak National Monument and Camping…4–5 America decline, Katmai provides some of the Meandering west toward Bristol Bay and the Preserve boasts one of the finest examples few remaining unaltered Bering Sea, the Alagnak traverses the beauti- of a dry caldera in the world. Six miles wide Park Neighbors…8–9 (Map) habitats for these ful Alaska Peninsula, providing unparalleled and 2,500-foot deep, Aniakchak Caldera amazing creatures. opportunities to experience the unique is the result of the collapse of a 7,000-foot Maps…8–9, 16 (Brooks Camp) wilderness, wildlife, and cultural heritage of mountain during a massive eruption about Southwest Alaska. 3,500 years ago. Resource Management…10–15 Getting Here, Getting Around: National Park Service U.S. Department of the Interior Quick Tips for Visiting Three of the Most Remote National Park Units Katmai Aniakchak Alagnak National Park and Preserve National Monument and Preserve Wild River Katmai National Park and Preserve Visitors may begin their journey to Katmai Extreme remoteness—450 roadless miles (724 Adjacent to Katmai’s northwest boundary, air Aniakchak National Monument National Park and Preserve in Anchorage, Alaska km) southwest of Anchorage—and notori- taxis to the Alagnak Wild River can be chartered and Preserve where commercial air carriers provide regular ously bad weather make access to Aniakchak from King Salmon, Iliamna, Soldotna, Homer, Alagnak Wild River service to King Salmon, Alaska. King Salmon National Monument and Preserve unpredictable. Anchorage, and other towns and villages. serves as the administrative headquarters for Drop-offs and/or pick-ups may be significantly Katmai was declared a national monu- Katmai, the Alagnak, Aniakchak, and the delayed. Chartered air taxi services are available, Guided rafting and/or equipment for unguided ment in 1918; Aniakchak in 1978. The Alaska Peninsula and Becharof National Wildlife however, from King Salmon and other nearby raft trips on the Alagnak are provided by several Alaska National Interest Lands Conserva- Refuges, and it is from here that many day trips towns and villages. Boats can reach Aniakchak companies in and around the river (see box be- tion Act of 1980 established the Alagnak and extended visits into these areas begin. from villages along the Pacific Ocean coastline. low). Trips generally start at Nonvianuk Lake or Wild River, while Katmai and Aniakchak Kukaklek Lake in Katmai National Preserve. Pick- were expanded to include national pre- Air taxi flights from King Salmon to Brooks Rafters contemplating running the Aniakchak up locations and dates should be coordinated serve areas; Katmai was also redesignated Camp and other locations throughout Katmai River from inside the volcano to the sea should with the transporter. a national park. Together, these parklands National Park and Preserve on float-equipped be experienced and/or coordinate with local or encompass nearly five million acres of planes are available from a variety of local nationwide guiding and outfitting services. pristine wilderness and cultural landscape operators. managed by the National Park Service. The National Park Service maintains no facilities Alternatively, visitors may gain direct access or trails within Aniakchak. Hiking and backpack- Newspaper Editor Visitor Services to Katmai, including coastal areas and Brooks ing conditions may be best on the cinder cones Michael Glore Camp, via air taxis from nearby Alaska towns and ash-covered surfaces of the caldera floor. Numerous companies—approximately and villages such as Iliamna, Homer, or Kodiak. Contributors Left: A male brown bear pursues a female along 132 in and around Katmai, 17 serving Alan Bennett, Peter Hamel, Michael Glore, the trail to Brooks Falls at Brooks Camp in Katmai Aniakchak, and 40 in and around the A 23 mile (37 km) unpaved road connects National Park. Troy Hamon, Sharon Kim, Claudette Alagnak—provide a variety of commercial Brooks Camp to the famed Valley of Ten Thou- Moore, Katie Myers, Daniel Noon, Tammy Center: The jewel-like waters of Surprise Lake await visitor services, including transportation, sand Smokes which, under normal conditions, is Olson, Dale Vinson, Roy Wood the rare visitor to Aniakchak Caldera. guided day use, guided multi-day use, accessible daily by bus, daily, June 1–September overnight accommodations and food 17. For reservations, contact Katmailand, Inc. at Right: Sockeye salmon abound in the Alagnak Wild Mailing Address River—increasingly becoming one of the most popu- service. A complete list of services is avail- 1-800-544-0551 or www.katmailand.com. PO Box 7 lar fishing destinations in Southwest Alaska. able on the parks’ respective websites. King Salmon, AK 99613

Park Headquarters ph: 907-246-3305 fax: 907-246-2116

Web Katmai: www.nps.gov/katm Aniakchak: www.nps.gov/ania Alagnak: www.nps.gov/alag

The National Park Service cares for the spe- n cial places saved by the American people so o am

that all may experience our heritage. oy h tr / nps ©Roy Wood ©Roy Wood

Essential Information

Dates and Hours of Operation Food Storage Pets Visitor Centers The National Park Service imposes no operating All food, beverages, garbage, equipment used Pets are not allowed within 1.5 miles (2.4 km) The Brooks Camp Visitor Center, open June hours or seasonal restrictions for visitor use of to cook or store food, and/or any odorous item of Brooks Camp (i.e., the Brooks Camp 1–September 17, is the point of entry for all visi- Katmai, Aniakchak, and the Alagnak. Access must be properly stored in a bear resistant con- Developed Area). In other areas, pets must be tors to Brooks Camp. A park ranger is on duty to and movement within the parklands may be tainer (BRC) (see pages 4–5 for more info). Pub- kept on a leash at all times. to provide information, campground check-in, limited or restricted at any time, however, de- lic food caches are available at Brooks Camp. and backcountry planning. An Alaska Natural pending on prevailing weather, security, and/or Weather History Association (ANHA) bookstore offers resource conditions and concerns. Many services Camping Even during summer, visitors to the Alaska Pen- books, maps, and other Katmai-related items. such as lodges and air taxis operate seasonally. Within 1.5 miles (2.4 km) of Brooks Camp (i.e., insula should be prepared for cool and stormy Call ahead for availability. the Brooks Camp Developed Area), camping conditions with frequent strong winds. Skies Located next door to the King Salmon Airport, is only allowed at Brooks Camp Campground. are clear about 20 percent of days. In general, the King Salmon Visitor Center (KSVC) provides National Park Service and concessioner-operated Camping is permitted elsewhere within Katmai, visitors to the Aniakchak area should expect information on the many federal public lands of facilities at Brooks Camp, in Katmai National and on any public lands within Aniakchak and significantly cooler, stormier, and windier condi- Southwest Alaska in general, and the Bristol Bay Park, are open from June 1 to September 17. the Alagnak (see pages 4–5 for more info). tions. Wherever you travel, remain aware of the area in particular. A large collection of films is dangers and treatments for hypothermia and be available for viewing and the ANHA bookstore Fees and Reservations Sportfishing equipped with clothing and shelter appropriate sells maps, charts, videos, posters, clothing and There are no entrance fees associated with pub- Fishing in Katmai, Aniakchak, and the Alagnak for any eventuality. more. Contact KSVC at 907-246-4250. lic use of Katmai, Aniakchak, and the Alagnak. is subject to Alaska Department of Fish and Game (ADF&G) regulations and restrictions. King Salmon, Alaska Weather Reservations and visitor use fees are required Alaska state fishing licenses are required. For for camping in Brooks Campground and must more fishing information and specific Brooks be made by telephone or online prior to arrival Camp regulations, ask a park ranger or visit the Month Average High Average Low Average Precip. at Brooks Camp (see page 4 for more camping ADF&G website at www.adfg.state.ak.us/. January 22.8°F (-5.1°C) 8.0°F (-13.3°C) 1.03” (26.2 mm) info). Reservations also apply for public use of February 23.8°F (-4.6°C) 7.4°F (-13.7°C) .72” (18.3 mm) Fure’s Cabin at the northeast corner of the Bay Hunting and Firearms of Islands on Naknek Lake. Contact National Sport hunting is permitted in the preserve areas March 32.0°F (0°C) 15.1°F (-9.4°C) .79” (20.1 mm) Park Service headquarters in King Salmon for only of Katmai National Park and Preserve and April 41.3°F (5.2°C) 24.9°F (-3.9°C) .94” (22.9 mm) availability and reservations. Aniakchak National Monument and Preserve. May 52.1°F (11.2°C) 34.8°F (1.6°C) 1.35” (34.3 mm) Only non-guided sport hunting is allowed in Bears the Alagnak Wild River corridor. In all other June 59.5°F (15.3°C) 42.2°F (5.7°C) 1.70” (43.2 mm) This is bear country! All parklands on the Alaska areas, sport hunting is prohibited. All hunting July 63.8°F (17.7°C) 47.5°F (8.6°C) 2.15” (54.6 mm) Peninsula contain substantial populations of activities require a license and are subject to August 62.2°F (16.8°C) 47.4°F (8.6°C) 2.89” (73.4 mm) brown bears. It is critical that visitors know how Alaska Department of Fish and Game (ADF&G) to behave around bears (consult pages 3–5 regulations and restrictions. Visit the ADF&G September 54.9°F (12.7°C) 40.3°F (4.6°C) 2.81” (71.4 mm) for more info). Upon arrival, visitors to Brooks website at http://www.adfg.state.ak.us/ for October 40.5°F (4.7°C) 26.0°F (-3.3°C) 2.10” (53.3 mm) Camp are required to participate in a brief, more information. Firearms are permitted in the November 30.5°F (-0.8°C) 15.9°F (-8.9°C) 1.54” (39.1 mm) mandatory “Bear Etiquette” training course at Alagnak Wild River corridor and the preserve the Brooks Camp Visitor Center. areas of Katmai and Aniakchak. December 25.1°F (-3.8°C) 9.3°F (-12.6°C) 1.39” (35.3 mm)

 The Novarupta Keeping Bears Wild: Prevention and Preservation

THE TERM “FOOD-CONDITIONED” HAS been applied to the complex process in Where the Wild Things Are: A Bear Viewing Calendar which bears learn to seek food from humans or from human sources. Unfortunately, wherever bears and people share common Location June July August September (bears eating...) resources, like at Brooks Camp in Katmai National Park, there is a serious risk of developing food-conditioned bears. While Brooks Camp (salmon) it is difficult to change the behavior of a we do wild bear, have the choice to behave Hallo Bay responsibly—for the benefit of both species. (vegetation; clams)

It is unusual for a bear to approach people Geographic in order to obtain food or “steal” a fish from Harbor an angler. Typically, a bear first becomes (salmon) habituated to the close proximity of people. Swikshak Once comfortable in the vicinity of sloppy Lagoon or careless human behavior, however, bears (vegetation) y may be confronted with situations con- Moraine Creek/ ducive to food-conditioning. Studies have maltb Funnel Creek

/h. (salmon)

shown dramatic changes in a bear’s behav- nps ior following its first discovery of a splash- Uninhibited access to wild food resources reinforces = Few Bears; = Some Bears; = Many Bears ing fish at the end of an angler’s line. Bears appropriate bear behavior. subsequently paid much more attention to human anglers as potential food sources, Punish the Behavior: This is the least desir- sometimes even approaching them directly. able way to eliminate any behavior. It is Too Close for Comfort difficult to do successfully and can lead to Bears become a threat to humans after unpredictable consequences. Further, the Avoid Close Encounters obtaining food (including fish) from visitors. punishment must be applied repeatedly and If you see a bear that is unaware Such “easy meals” serve as reinforcement consistently to be effective. of you and/or far away, back away for a bear to approach humans. They may slowly and quietly while observing become bold, approach closely, and force Rangers may try to punish undesirable bear the bear’s behavior. a person to retreat rapidly. For this reason, behavior by firing plastic bullets and/or fire- visitors should not carry food or any other cracker shells at or near them. A bear could Do Not Approach odorous item around Brooks Camp. Rather, potentially respond aggressively to people The minimum distance from any bear is 50 yards (46 m), or as otherwise store them in bear resistant containers nearby, and almost certainly will run from directed by National Park Service (BRCs) or any of the available public food the area. Either response presents risks to personnel. Avoid actions that interfere caches at all times. If a bear approaches human safety. Consequently, rangers punish with bear movement or foraging activi- you while fishing, remove your line from or haze bears only when necessary and only ties. Please check with a park ranger if the water immediately and slowly move to after clearing the area of people. you’re unsure about a situation. a safer location. Know how to break or cut your line and be prepared to do so should a Why not just kill a “problem” bear? The Remain Calm bear draw near while you have a fish in play. State of Alaska and federal law provide for A bear may approach closely or rear up In doing so, you’ll ensure your own safety, the protection and preservation of wildlife. on its hind legs to identify you. Back other visitors’, and that of the bears as well. Killing bears because a human taught them away slowly, moving diagonally out of its to “steal” food does not conform to the path. You may need to leave a trail tem- There are basically three ways to eliminate letter or spirit of the law. It is an alternative porarily to allow a bear to pass. If a bear follows you, stop and hold your ground. If undesirable bear behavior: only under extreme circumstances. a bear continues to approach, make noise, nps collection wave your arms, and try to appear as large Withhold Reinforcement: Carry no food, Clearly, bears that learn to steal fish from an- as possible. beverage (except water) or odorous items glers present the National Park Service with If A Bear Makes Contact, Play Dead around Brooks Camp. Don’t fish in the a very complex problem. Sportfishing is one Don’t Run Fall to the ground on your stomach with your vicinity of bears and stop fishing whenever of the primary reasons people visit Katmai, Running may encourage a bear to pursue you. legs apart. Lock your hands behind your neck to bears approach closer than 50 yards (~46 m). Aniakchak, and the Alagnak. The protection Bears can run faster than 30 mph (50 km/hr). protect your neck and face. If you do get rolled and preservation of wild bear populations is You cannot outrun them. If you are charged, try over, keep rolling until you’re face down again. Reinforce Alternative Behavior: Spectacular also a primary mission for the NPS. You are to appear non-threatening. Stand your ground Stay quietly in this position until the bear has salmon runs provide an abundance of alter- the solution. Do not let bears learn that hu- and speak to the bear in a calm voice. Bears left the area. If the attack continues long after native reinforcement to hungry bears. Bears mans are an easy source of food. The future sometimes come within a few feet of people you have assumed the protective position, fight do not need us to feed them. of Katmai’s brown bears is in your hands. before veering off. back vigorously.

Nature Photography Ethics

We encourage you to enjoy Katmai’s wildlife, but we Social: Knowledge of Rules and Laws ask that you do it with respect and care. National parks are symbols • When appropriate, inform managers or authorities of your of our wild heritage. The forethought of past generations has given presence and purpose. Help minimize cumulative impacts and us the special places we enjoy today. Help protect and preserve the maintain safety. natural wonders of Katmai, Aniakchak, and the Alagnak for the • Learn the laws and rules of the location. If minimum distances future by maintaining standards of ethical photography—it’s up to exist for approaching wildlife, follow them. each of us. • In the absence of management authority, use good judgement. Treat the wildlife, plants, and places as if you were their guest. The North American Nature Photography Association (NANPA) • Prepare yourself and your equipment for unexpected events. encourages adherence to the following Principles of Ethical Field Avoid exposing yourself and others to preventable mishaps. Practices: Individual: Expertise and Responsibilities Environmental: Knowledge of Subject and Places • Treat others courteously. Ask before joining others already shoot- This copyrighted information has been reprinted • Learn patterns of animal behavior. Do not interfere with animal ing in an area. with permission from the North American life cycles. • Tactfully inform others if you observe them engaging in inap- Nature Photography Association. For more • Do not distress wildlife or their habitat. Respect the routine needs propriate/harmful behavior. Many people unknowingly endanger information, please visit www.nanpa.org or call of animals. themselves and animals. 303-422-8527. • Use appropriate lenses to photograph wild animals. If an animal • Report inappropriate behavior to proper authorities. Don’t argue shows stress, move back and use a longer lens. with those who don’t care; report them. • Acquaint yourself with the fragility of the ecosystem. Stay on trails • Be a good role model, both as a photographer and as a citizen. that are intended to lessen impact. Educate others by your actions; enhance their understanding.

The Novarupta  Welcome to Brooks Camp, Katmai National Park!

Brooks Camp attracts visitors of all kinds to fish in a world-class rainbow trout river, to view brown bears congregating during the annual sockeye salmon run, and to learn about the long human history of the area. Also a starting point for backcountry ad- ventures, daily naturalist-led/concessioner-operated bus tours from Brooks Camp provide easy access to the geologic splendors of the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes, site of the largest volcanic eruption of the last century.

Brooks Camp is situated at the mouth of the Brooks River, along the

banks of Naknek Lake (the largest lake within any unit of the re o gl

National Park System). From June 1 to September 17, the National . m /

Park Service operates a visitor center, ranger station, campground, nps and auditorium with daily visitor programs. Also during this time, This reconstructed semi-subterranean house, or the park concessioner, Katmailand, Inc., provides additional ser- barabara, can be seen daily on the Cultural Walk. vices and amenities, including meals and lodging at Brooks Lodge.

Bear viewing at Brooks Camp is generally best in July and Sep- Home to Humans tember, and there may be very few or no bears present in June and August. All visitors are required to begin their stay by checking in at for Millennia the visitor center for a mandatory bear orientation and safety talk On June 6, 1912 a volcanic eruption outlining park regulations and proper behavior around bears (spe- shook the Aleutian Range at the northern cific rules apply to bear viewing activities at Brooks Camp). end of the Alaska Peninsula. The Mount Katmai/Novarupta eruption, which formed Three bear viewing platforms provide safe and ideally situated op- the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes, was portunities for observing bear behavior. The Lower River platform awe-inspiring and terrifying for witnesses. It is located just across the bridge over Brooks River. An additional was also instrumental in making Katmai .9 mile (1.4 km) of trail (one-way) gives access to the Brooks Falls National Park and Preserve what it is today. ood

and Riffles platforms. While most trails, restrooms, and facilities w But it was by no means unprecedented. oy at Brooks Camp are wheelchair accessible, trails are unpaved and r © Seven major eruptions in the Katmai area frequently muddy. Visitors should be prepared to leave the trail in Brooks Camp is renowned for its bear-viewing opportunities. Scenes like the one have been recorded in historic times, and order to avoid a bear. above, captured at Brooks Falls, are not uncommon, and attract amateur and professional photographers alike from around the world. Continued on page 15

Brooks Camp Activities

Visitor Center Cultural Walk Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes Evening Slide Show Programs Open June 1 through September 17, all visitors A park ranger/naturalist leads this short .25 mile A park ranger/naturalist accompanies this scenic Presented by a park ranger/naturalist or special to Brooks Camp must check-in at the visitor (0.4 km) walk providing information about the bus ride through some of Katmai’s spectacu- guest speaker in the Brooks Camp Auditorium, center upon arrival for a brief bear orientation human history of Brooks River Archeological lar backcountry. After lunch at Three Forks, daily interpretive programs offer information program. A ranger is on duty to provide infor- District and National Historic Landmark, includ- overlooking the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes, and unique perspectives on Katmai’s special fea- mation, campground check-in, and backcountry ing archeological studies and traditional Alaska visitors may take the optional, ranger-led hike tures, history, and wildlife. Inquire at the visitor planning. A bookstore is also available offering Native uses of plants and animals. The walk into the valley. The hike is three miles (4.8 km) center for times and topics. books, maps, and other Katmai-related items. lasts about an hour and leads to a reconstructed round-trip, with an 800 feet (244 m) elevation prehistoric Native dwelling. change. Sturdy boots, water, and extra warm Dumpling Mountain Hike clothes are recommended. Total trip time is 7–8 This moderately strenuous hike climbs 800 feet hours. Inquire at Brooks Lodge for reservations, (244 m) over 1.5 miles (2.4 km) (one-way) to or contact Katmailand, Inc. at 1-800-544-0551 an overlook above Brooks Camp with expansive or www.katmailand.com. views of Naknek Lake. Rain gear, water, and sturdy hiking boots or shoes are recommended. The trailhead is located in the Brooks Camp

Campground.

gavin

jim Brooks Camp Campground ©

A Unique Setting Campfires The only developed campground in Katmai Campfires are allowed in the three designated National Park and Preserve is located at Brooks fire rings near each cooking shelter. Only dead Camp. At this site in 1950, Katmai’s first park and downed wood may be collected for use as ranger, William Nancarrow, constructed a two- fuel for campfires. room tent frame and a food cache, comprising Campground the first significant National Park Service pres- Cooking ence in the park. All cooking must take place within one of the Reservations three shared cooking shelters. (As a safety pre- Brooks Camp Campground is open June Given its primitive facilities, wildlife viewing caution, campers arriving by air with portable Food and Gear Storage 1–September 17. Reservations are re- opportunities, and location on the Naknek Lake camp stoves should bring empty fuel bottles All food, refuse, and any other odorous items quired, and must be made via telephone beach with stunning views of Mt. Katolinat, and purchase fuel at the Brooks Lodge Trading (e.g., toothpaste, deodorant, etc.) should be or online. During the month of July, Brooks Camp Campground is considered by Post.) Wash dishes and cooking utensils at stored in the centrally located food cache which campsites may be reserved for a maxi- many to be one of the top campgrounds in the water spigot near the food storage cache. also contains a trash receptacle. In order to mum of seven nights, cumulatively. To North America. Cooking over open fires is not permitted. prevent curious bears from investigating, please make reservations and pay the $8.00 per store gear you’re not using in the gear storage person/per night campground fee, please Due to its unique setting, the campground is Electrified Fence cache adjacent to the food cache. A fireproof visit www.recreation.gov or call 877- specially managed to minimize human–bear In 2000, Brooks Camp Campground was locker is available for storage of all flammable 444-6777 (from the United States), 518- conflicts. For their own safety, and for the enclosed within an electric fence to deter bears materials, such as stove fuel, flares, etc. 885-3639 (international). Telephone and continued health of resident brown bears and from entering the campsites. The fence is NOT internet access are unavailable at Brooks their habitat, campers must take precautions to a bear barrier, although once “shocked,” bears Toilets Camp, so campground reservations must reduce odors from food, garbage, and/or any- do tend to avoid any subsequent contact with The campground contains two vault toilets/out- be made prior to your arrival. thing else that could appeal to a bear’s strong such fences. houses. sense of smell.

 The Novarupta avin G im ©J

River Lethe in the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes, Katmai National Park. River Crossings Backcountry Travel River crossings in this region cannot be approached using traditional techniques. Due to the suspended volcanic ash in the water, it is often impossible to judge water depths visually. Permits Food, trash, and all odorous items must be Many of the rivers in the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes are actually narrow gorges as deep While permits are not required for backcountry carried and stored in a bear-resistant container as 100 feet in places. Streams, creeks, and rivers change constantly as ash sloughs off can- travel or camping, users are encouraged to (BRC). A limited supply of BRCs are available yon walls and erosion alters the channels. If you cannot find a safe crossing and/or you are submit a Backcountry Planner, available free-of- free for checkout at the Brooks Camp and King unfamiliar with valley rivers, you should not attempt to cross. You may need to wait a day or charge at the Brooks Camp and King Salmon Salmon visitor centers. Hanging food is not longer until lower water levels permit safe crossing. Follow these tips for safe crossing: visitor centers. encouraged as trees of appropriate height may not be available. Maps Maps are available from ANHA-partnered The The Leave No Trace Principles • Watch the water’s surface and cross Map Store at USGS: 1-877-786-7047. The Leave No Trace is a national and international where you see small ripples (not Brooks Camp and King Salmon visitor centers program designed to assist outdoor enthusiasts waves), indicating shallow water. (see page 2) maintain a limited stock only. with their decisions about how to reduce their impacts when they hike, camp, picnic, snow- • Cross early in the morning. Camping shoe, run, bike, hunt, paddle, ride horses, fish, Drop Off High Water With the exception of Brooks Camp ski or climb. The program strives to educate all • Release your belt and straps so you Level Campground, all camping within Katmai those who enjoy the outdoors about the nature can drop your pack. National Park and Preserve must occur at least of their recreational impacts as well as tech- Katmai Lodge Restrooms National Park Unpaved road 1.5 miles (2.4 km) from Brooks Camp. Camp- niques to prevent and minimize such impacts. Kokhanok Food service Boat launch • Wear shoes—don’t crossKatmai in socks or ing is allowed anywhere on public landsILIAMNA within Leave NoLAKE Trace is best understood as an educa- barefoot. National Preserve Hiking trail Campground Ranger patrol cabin Typical Water Aniakchak(intermittently National Monument staffed) and Preserve tional and ethical program, not as a set of rules Native village corpor- Picnic area ation lands; no entry Level and Alagnak Wild River. Campsites must be and regulations. • Allow yourself a retreat;without don’t ownercom- permission Gorge relocated at least 2 miles (3.2 km) after 14 con- AUGUSTINE mit to one route.0 10 20 Kilometers secutive days in one location. When choosing Leave No Trace information is rooted in scientific ISLAND 0 10 20 Miles a campsite, followIgiugig Leave No Trace guidelines to studies and common sense. The message is minimize your impact on the park environment. framed under seven Leave No Trace Principles: T 1. Plan Ahead and Prepare E L

k N Funnel Cree r 2. Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces KAMISHAK I ive Mirror R Lake C Spectal re e L BAY Safety Concerns 3. Dispose of Waste Properly ek ak M e ora Crosswind k ine a Lake h K Visitors to Aniakchak, the Alagnak, and Katmai’sic Hypothermia v 4.KUKAKLEK Leave What LAKE You Find K O backcountry have access to millions of acres of Hypothermia is the critical lowering of the O designated wilderness and limitless possibili- body’s core temperature and is signaled by McNeil Cove r e 5. Minimize Campfire Impacts McNeil Falls C v ties for adventure and exploration. With these these symptoms:i shivering, numbness, slurred ver i r R R e Battle Lake iv R y opportunities come greater responsibilities for speech, loss of coordination, drowsiness and Cabins a 6. Respect Wildlife B k k i the safety of your group, yourself, wildlife, and exhaustion. Avoid hypothermia by eating plenty B v a r n KATMAI NATIONAL PRESERVE a g t McNEIL RIVER a t w the land. Planning ahead will help ensure your laof high-calorie foods, drinking plenty of water, le ALAGNAK L eil m A 7. Be Considerate of Other Visitors a N u k McNeil Lake c k Royal Wolf Lodge e M WILD RIVER A safety and enjoyment and that of future visitors. and staying dry. Layer clothing appropriately for k er na Nonvianuk Camp iv lag ianuk STATE GAME SANCTUARY R your level of activity to minimize sweating. This copyrightedA informationNonv has been reprinted with permission from the Leave No Trace Center for River NON Nonvianuk VIAN Pirate The following safety concernsAY are of particular Outdoor Ethics. For more information or Patrolmaterials, Cabin please visit Uwww.LNT.orgK or call 303-442-8222. Lake B LA Kulik Lodge ak KE ish importance to backcountry/wilderness users: Bears m Ku a lik K This is bear country! All parklands on the Alaska Enchanted r

K Lake Lodge r e i

e e c A l v Weather Peninsula contain substantial populations of Oakley Peak t k i a Attention Campers on Katmai’s Coast: l 2442ft t La i e R H 794m Am 4625ft ke L e G Sugarloaf e r 1410m C C r d

Weather in all areas of the Alaska Peninsula can brown bears. It is critical that visitors know how Mountain i r c e I e

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2085ft t V n i be both sudden and severe. Be prepared for to behave around bears. Avoid close encounters To ensure636m bears’ free access to prime feeding sites and preventCree bear/visitor conflicts while pro- R o

K k p S s Mount Douglas extreme conditions at all times of the year and by remaining aware of your surroundings at all viding for overnight camping in the area, camping within the core Hallo Bay Meadows will be a y l 7063ft i Ba g Suko u 2153m have the wisdom to alter, delay, or abandon times. Store food and refuse properly, and do restricted from May 15th through July 15th (for more information, see the Superintendent’s o

Hammersley D Cape Lake k Compendium on Katmai’s website at: www.nps.gov/katm/parkmgmt/lawsandpolicies.htm). Douglas your travel plans if current conditions or the not approach within 50 yards (46 m) of a beare e on r Salm C forecast appear ominous. (consult page 3 for more info). e ik r t k S a Fourpeaked

ng Murray h i Id L s Mountain K a A i urpeaked G y Lake 6903ft Fo l. a m i K n E a 2104m La K ke C O V IL Savonoski Loop LE Grosvenor Lake Lodge Naknek 0 10 Kilometers Na knek Brooks Camp is the point of departure for the etiquette skills as used on dry land, including 0 10 Miles Lake Camp LAKE Savonoski Loop, an 80 mile (129 km)King backcoun Salmon- the use of BRCs for storing food, garbage, and GRO Park Headquarters Portage SV Fures Cabin Trail E and Visitor Center R N try canoe or kayak trip. Paddlers begin heading ivotherer odorous items. Paddlers are advised to s O NA nd KNEK sla R LAKE I r northwest, following the north arm of Naknek avoid camping on the Savonoski River, as it is f ive NOR o R TH ARM y a Creek Lake to Bay of Islands. Near historic Fure’s Rapids Campparticularly popular with bears. B g Cabin, a two mile (3.2 km) portage leads to le Bi bb Kaguyak Swikshak Cabin ra er Swikshak North dsc Riv Crater Grosvenor Lake. Paddlers then continue across Equipment rentals, outfitters, and guides may Dumpling Mountain Har Bay 2440ft Mount La Gorce Brooks Camp Savonosky the lake, down Grosvenor River, along the be available locally. Contact the King Salmon 744m 3183ft Halo Bay Contact Peak Brooks Falls 970m R Wolverine a Wilderness Camps 1156ft i Falls Savonoski River to the Iliuk Arm of Naknek Visitor Center (see page 2 for more info). The n 352m b o w Lake, and finally back to Brooks Camp. The trip Map Store at USGS specializes in appropriate ILIUK KS ARM OO generally takes four to ten days (or more) to maps and charts (see “Maps” above). BR Savonoski E (abandoned village) Devils Desk AK R complete, depending on weather conditions L iv 6411ft Mount Katolinat e r r 1954m 4730ft e and paddlers’ experience. Limited public use of Fure’s Cabin in Bay of ci 1442m la G All islands within 5 miles of the r Kukak Volcano Ninagiak Islands is available by permit. Contact Katmai e mainland are included in the v k 6700ft Island Margot Falls i o R o Mount Kelez H 2042m park. The water and submerged Just as throughout Katmai, bears are common National Park and Preserve headquarters in 3250ft HALLO lands seaward of the coasts, k Mount Denison 991m a Mount Steller beyond the mean high tide line, k 7606ft 7300ft BAY along the Savonoski Loop. Paddlers should King Salmon to check availability and begin the U Glacier are not included. Granite Peak 2318m 2225m Hallo 1683ft V Valley area of exercise the same Leave No Trace and bear permitting process. The 80 mile (129 km) Savonoski Loop. This map is not suitable for navigationalA purposes. 513m L ash flow from er L ci E la Y 1912 eruption Mount Griggs G O ue F 7600ft ng T To Katmai Wilderness Lodge Three Forks E The2316m Novarupta  nt N pe De 1065ft Ser vil Overlook T K Snowy Mountain s C 325m Yori Pass B H n ov U O if e U e 7090ft T C Bay T S 2161m A r R e k R N ek a E i k v D u K S K in e g S r S W M Baked

L Broken i R n e O Mtn

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e G S S a C lm re Knife Creek 6715ft

E Glaciers C r o e Novarupta Crater 2047m n e Falling Mtn Lake Kaflia k 2760ft t k Bay tac ree Mt Cerbrus 841m on ie C Trident Volcano C ng A Katmai 6010ft 1832m Riv Mount Mageik Pass er Red Mountain 7250ft 1721ft 2210m Observation Mountain Hidden 525m Mount Martin Harbor 6050ft 3260ft Taka 1844m 994m K yato ul iak Gertrude Peak C K B Ge r ay rt e i ru 1141ft e n d k S a e 348m N A k I M l ar a t B A in M g a T C i o r y s N ee s g Creek K k K Geographic ak U e s a j h B O u t Harbor a AFOGNAK a li m y M k k a Amalik Cabin i K I ISLAND L BECHAROF NATIONAL U J R iv E e Amalik Bay K r R iv e WILDLIFE REFUGE r Katmai Dakavak Taki (abandoned village) Cr Bay Island ee ean k Kupr of St rai Katmai t Bay B EC H r A ive RO R F Kashvik L Bay SHELIKOF STRAIT AK E Cape Kubugaki

k li ju Ke

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ALINCHAK KODIAK ISLAND BAY

Mount Peulik E 4395ft K 1340m A L PUALE BAY

IK H ALASKA S A G PENINSULA U R WILDLIFE E P P REFUGE U Alagnak: A Wild River for Future Generations

Visitors to the Alagnak Wild River istered by neighboring Katmai National experience a wilderness of captivating Park and Preserve, headquartered in King landscapes, abundant wildlife, and cultural Salmon, Alaska. The National Park Service heritage. Meandering down the braided manages approximately 83 percent of the river, you may discover a proud bald eagle river within the Alagnak Wild River cor- perched atop a spruce tree in the boreal ridor; the remaining 17 percent of the lands forest, gaze at a moose browsing above the within the corridor are privately owned by river bank in the wet sedge tundra, or per- Alaska Natives. haps encounter a brown bear feasting upon spawning salmon, a critical link in the Alag- To ensure the continued enjoyment and nak River ecosystem. The diversity of life protection of the river’s resources, the found along the river corridor also includes National Park Service is preparing a com- osprey, beaver, river otter, rainbow trout, prehensive river corridor plan to address and a variety of vegetation such as spruce, resource management issues and to make willows and many types of berry bushes. explicit management objectives for the Alagnak Wild River. This multi-year project For centuries people have lived along the involves the collection of information Alagnak and depended on the rich natural related to subsistence, fisheries, wildlife, resources for survival. Today, Alaska Natives vegetation, water quality, hydrology, visitor

from nearby villages own land along the use, and other biological and sociological n o river and still depend on the area for sub- data from which informed management llecti o c sistence hunting and fishing. The Alagnak’s decisions can then be made. The planning wildlife and Class I–III rapids offer an excit- process is and will continue to be a collabor- nps ing trip for many boaters, and the abundant ative effort involving the state government, The braided Alagnak Wild River is also known as the “Branch River” to many local residents. fish make the river the most popular destina- a wide variety of federal agencies, Alaska tion for sport fishing in Southwest Alaska. Native groups, tribal governments, local governments, private organizations, and People and the Alagnak River

In order to protect the Alagnak’s free-flow- landowners which have an interest in the the Alagnak in prehistoric times ing characteristics, striking scenery, diverse management of the Alagnak Wild River and was indeed a productive place to live—home wildlife, and cultural history, the upper 67 the preservation of its resources. to a substantial population of people thriv- A Subsistence Lifestyle miles were designated a Wild River in 1980 ing on the river’s bounty. An archeological The meaning of Alagnak is “making by the Alaska National Interest Lands You are invited to discover the magnificent survey conducted in 1997 revealed that peo- mistakes” or “going the wrong way.” As splendor of this riparian wilderness. Please Conservation Act (ANILCA) under the ple have lived along the Alagnak for the past Mrs. Gust, a resident of Levelock said, provisions of the 1968 National Wild and assist us in protecting the Alagnak Wild 8,000 years. Some early inhabitants lived in “The channel is always changing, causing Scenic Rivers Act. As one of Alaska’s 25 con- River and its unique ecosystem by practic- settlements with as few as 4 dwellings, while mistakes and getting lost.” Younger local gressionally designated rivers comprising ing “Leave No Trace Principles” of outdoor others resided in larger villages with as many people call the Alagnak the Branch River the National Wild and Scenic Rivers System ethics (see page 5 for more info). We welcome as 69 houses. From more recent times, the because of the branching nature of the (NWSRS), the river is part of 3,210 miles any thoughts you wish to share related to remains of an early historic village provide river. Alagnag’llug (which is diminutive for of protected wild, scenic and recreational your experience on the river, along with evidence of a community whose members teasing cousins) and Locknuk are places rivers in Alaska. A unit of the National Park your ideas concerning its management. cached their food in the ground, attended a people used to live along the Alagnak. The descendants have since moved to System, the Alagnak Wild River is admin- Russian Orthodox church, and buried their Kokhanok, Igiugig and Newhalen. Many loved ones in a cemetery. Today, Alaska people still return to the area for subsis- Natives call this site Alagnag’llug, and the tence purposes. rich cultural history of the area is well re- membered by the people of nearby villages. People have traditionally caught birds and gathered eggs, sourdock, wild celery Alaska Natives continue to own land along and fiddlehead ferns along the Alagnak. the Alagnak, practicing traditional subsis- In the summer camps, fish are gathered tence activities. As you enjoy the river, re- for smoking, salting, canning, and freez- member those who came before and respect ing for the winter. When dogs were used the special cultural heritage of the area. as the major mode of transportation, Please do not disturb archeological sites, fish was stored for them, too. Long ago, fish was stored in underground pits and leave artifacts where you find them, and do was used to make fermented fish heads, not camp or trespass on private property. a delicacy. In the fall season, salmon berries, blackberries, blueberries and To learn more about the people who live and cranberries are gathered and stored for have lived along the Alagnak, ask for a free winter. Also wild game such as caribou copy of the cultural history guide, or down- and moose are caught. After they have n o load it from the Alagnak website at: consumed berries, bears are ready to eat.

llecti www.nps.gov/alag/historyculture/ In the late fall, whitefish are harvested o c and stored for the winter. In the winter, nps smelt, trout and grayling are caught by ice fishing. Trapping is still done to Fishing the Alagnak provide fur for hats, mittens, coats and household use such as throw rugs and Commercial Fishing stability of the Alagnak sport fishery. Visitors furniture coverings. The large salmon runs in Bristol Bay are subject intending to fish should become familiar with to a carefully managed commercial harvest these regulations. Martha (Olympic) Crow prior to their arrival in individual rivers includ- ing the Alagnak. The Alaska Department of Catch and Release Fish and Game allows commercial fishing only Fishing for rainbow trout on the Alagnak is when there are enough fish to ensure sufficient catch-and-release only. Many anglers fishing population numbers for successful spawning, for other species also use catch-and-release subsistence, and sport fishing. techniques as encouraged by the National Park Service and the Alaska Department of Fish and Sportfishing Game. Proper catch-and-release technique The Alagnak’s extraordinary rainbow trout, char, requires the angler to land the fish as quickly grayling, and abundant salmon are some of the as possible to avoid over-taxing it, keep the fish most attractive sport fish in the world, and the in the water at all times, handle the fish gently river has become the most popular fly-in fishing with wet hands, and release the fish without location in all of Southwest Alaska. Although delay. Adherence to these simple guidelines will the fishing is exceptional, these prized sport fish increase the survival rate of the fish and provide n are still vulnerable to overfishing. The Alaska continued angling opportunities for others. The o llecti

Department of Fish and Game (ADF&G) care- National Park Service additionally encourages o c fully monitors the populations to ensure that use of barbless hooks. nps the present regulations maintain the long-term Salmon drying on a traditional rack.

 The Novarupta miller e o j / nps Vent Mountain in Aniakchak Caldera, Aniakchak National Monument. Aniakchak National Monument and Preserve

Aniakchak lies 450 miles south of 3,500 years ago. Subsequent eruptions have to have taken place underwater in the lake- and 2.5 miles long, Surprise Lake is all that Anchorage on the roadless Alaska Peninsula. created the small cinder cones, lava flows filled area. Eventually, a weaker portion of remains of the once larger lake. Because of its remote location and notori- and explosion pits that dot the caldera floor. the rim collapsed, and the resulting outflow ously bad weather, Aniakchak is one of cut through 1,500 feet of fossil-bearing sedi- Aniakchak’s most recent eruption oc- the least visited units of the National Park It appears that at one time the caldera was mentary and volcanic layers to create “The curred in early May 1931. Explosions from System. For the traveler that overcomes its filled to a substantial depth with water, Gates” through which the Aniakchak River the eruption were heard 200 miles away. logistical challenges, however, the monu- creating a deep lake similar to Crater Lake in now exits the Caldera. Turquoise-colored At the village of Chignik Bay, 45 miles to ment’s extraordinary landscapes make it a Oregon. Some of the volcanic events seem the southwest, ash fall was reported to be truly unique place to experience. a pound per hour for each square foot. A Dinosaur! field of floating pumice five miles in One of the many vibrant reminders of Alas- diameter was observed in Bristol Bay. Ash was carried as far away as ka’s location in the volcanically active “Ring A recent paleontological study of Aniakchak resulted in the of Fire,” Aniakchak is home to an imposing documentation of a fossilized hadrosaur track, estimated to be at interior Alaska, a distance of over 700 caldera: a six-mile wide, 2,500 foot deep least 150 million years old. This is the first sign of a hadrosaur, a miles. Aniakchak is still volcanically active crater formed by the collapse of a 7,000 foot duck-billed, plant-eating dinosaur, on the Alaska Peninsula. today—mineral springs that feed Surprise mountain during a massive eruption about Lake in the caldera are as warm as 70°F.

Paradise Found and Lost: The Explorations of “Glacier Priest” Father Bernard Hubbard

Prehistoric and historic peoples hunted, trapped, and fished the Aniakchak area, but the caldera’s modern exploration began just over 70 years ago. The most dramatic and publicized visits were those of “Glacier Priest” Father Bernard Hubbard. Flown into Aniakchak’s caldera itself in 1930, he witnessed “a world within a mountain” and called it “Paradise Found.” “Glacier Priest” Father miller

Bernard Hubbard e o j Aniakchak erupted again a year later and Hubbard returned, hiking / nps from Kujulik Bay with three companions. Crossing the coastal- Rafters negotiate car-sized boulders in The Gates of the Aniakchak Wild River. barrier mountains and Aniakchak River valley their footsteps sent up clouds of ash that made their hair feel like wire brushes. Dust whirlwinds everywhere raised miniature tornadoes. They traversed Through “The Gates:” 30 miles to the caldera rim the first day and surmounted it the next Rafting the Aniakchak Wild River morning. “Black were its snowfields and black its glaciered head... We were going through a valley of death in which not a blade Congress designated the Aniakchak a national wild river in 1980. Its of grass or a flower or a bunch of moss broke through the thick spectacular resources make rafting the Aniakchak a rewarding experience. covering of deposited ash. Black cinders clinked under our From Surprise Lake, the river flows a peaceful mile (1.6 km) to The Gates. feet and slid away. It was like walking on wheat in a huge bin, The river moves swiftly through this narrow gorge in the caldera wall, and and equally difficult.” Here, too, were whirlwinds of dust and large rocks demand precise maneuvering. A gradient of 75 feet per mile smoke, creating a “vision of hell in Aniakchak.” They witnessed (14.2 m/km) makes this section challenging. After a more gentle 10 miles a bird being overcome by lethal gases. It was “Paradise Lost (16.1 km) comes the confluence with Hidden Creek, and the river is again after having lived in Paradise Found the previous year.” The filled with car-sized boulders, abrupt bends, and a narrow bed requiring extreme caution. After 5 more miles (8 km), the river slows to meander reaction was silence. toward the Pacific Ocean and the seals, sea otters, bald eagles, and sea birds of Aniakchak Bay. This Aniakchak was “the abomination of desolation, it was the prelude of hell. Black walls, black floor, black water, deep black Are you contemplating the trip? The Aniakchak River presents a holes and black vents; it fairly agonized the eye to look at it.” New challenge to even the most experienced river runners. Only a sights since 1930 greeted them: “There was a huge black crater built few parties float the river each year, mostly in July. A commercial out from the wall, and from its black maw yellow and brown gases guidebook says: “The weather on Aniakchak is severe; life-threatening were pouring, and clouds of escaping steam.” Lava bombs had conditions can develop rapidly. Extremely violent winds in the caldera, par- made living room-sized craters on the caldera floor. In an explo- ticularly near ‘The Gates,’ can shred tents and prevent air rescue.” A hefty sion pit, like a huge paint pot, “Yellow sulphurs seethed and boiled budget and pre-tested skills and gear are absolutely necessary. Dry suits around the edge of broken blocks of red lava... Colored fumes too are recommended; life jackets are required. Inflatable rafts 12–13 feet (4 heavy to rise rolled about like waves on a stormy sea.” Hubbard’s m) long with rowing platforms are most popular. And, be sure to bring lots of repair materials! Maps and charts can be obtained from The Map party stuck a glass tube in the ground and lowered a Store at USGS at 1-877-786-7047, or the King Salmon Visitor Center (be thermometer 8 inches. “It burst in three minutes at sure to call ahead for availability—see page 2 for contact info). Limited 200° centigrade!” They verified a new theory that

n supplies may be available in larger Bristol Bay communities. chlorine gas can be found in volcanoes. o llecti o

c Total float time: 3–4 days from Surprise Lake to the bay. Plan on delays

Later, the party climbed to the new subcrat- nps getting in and, especially, delays getting out. The Aniakchak is a dynamic er’s steaming rim: “We stood awestricken landscape; river conditions may change rapidly in a very short period on the edge,” wrote the priest, “looking, like of time. Contact the National Park Service in King Salmon for the Dantes, into a real inferno.” latest information, but always be prepared for the unexpected!

The Novarupta  Good Neighbors: Alaska Peninsula Map

National Park Service

On August 25, 1916, President Woodrow Wilson Alaska is home to 15 NPS units and two signed the “Organic Act,” creating the National affiliated areas, totalling 54 million acres—about Park Service (NPS). Today, the service remains two-thirds of the acreage in the entire National firmly rooted in the ideals and goals of this found- Park System—and including 33 million acres of ing legislation, caring for the special places saved Congressionally designated wilderness. by the American people so that all may experience our heritage. For more information:

The American system of national parks was the Katmai National Park and Preserve first of its kind in the world. Today, it comprises Aniakchak National Monumnet and Preserve 390 areas covering more than 84 million acres in Alagnak Wild River 49 States, the District of Columbia, American Sa- P.O. Box 7 moa, Guam, Puerto Rico, Saipan, and the Virgin King Salmon, AK 99613 Islands—areas of such national significance that ph: 907-246-3305 they justify special recognition and protection in fax: 907-246-2116 accordance with various acts of Congress.

Katmai National Park and Preserve

Katmai National Monument was created in 1918 brown bears, pristine waterways with abundant to preserve the famed Valley of Ten Thousand fish, remote wilderness, and a rugged coastline. Smokes, a spectacular 40 square mile, 100 to 700 foot deep ash flow deposited by Novarupta Contact Katmai National Park and Preserve on Volcano. A National Park & Preserve since 1980, the web at www.nps.gov/katm, or click “Contact Katmai is still famous for volcanoes, but also for Us” from the homepage to send an email.

Aniakchak National Monument and Preserve

Given its remote location and notoriously bad deep caldera formed during a massive eruption weather, Aniakchak is one of the least visited units 3,500 years ago. of the National Park System. A vibrant reminder of Alaska’s location in the volcanically active Contact Aniakchak National Monument and “Ring of Fire,” the monument is home to an im- Preserve on the web at www.nps.gov/ania, or click pressive six-mile (10 km) wide, 2,500 foot (762 m) “Contact Us” from the homepage to send an email.

Alagnak Wild River

The headwaters of the Alagnak Wild River lie ence the unique wilderness, wildlife, and cultural within the rugged Aleutian Range of neighboring heritage of Southwest Alaska. Katmai National Park and Preserve. Meandering west towards Bristol Bay and the Bering Sea, the Contact Alagnak Wild River on the web at Alagnak traverses the beautiful Alaska Peninsula, www.nps.gov/alag, or click “Contact Us” from the providing an unparalleled opportunity to experi- homepage to send an email.

U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service

The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (USFWS) is It’s difficult to imagine the immense the primary federal agency designated charged size of the wildlife refuges in Alaska. The 16 to conserve and manage the nation’s fish and refuges total over 82 million acres and account wildlife. The agency protects over 800 species of for about 85% of all lands in the National Wildlife migratory birds, more than 600 endangered plant Refuge System. and animals species, and over 50 fish species. With the passage of the Alaska National Inter- The USFWS administers the National Wildlife est Lands Conservation Act (ANILCA) in 1980, Refuge System—the world’s largest and most Congress established the Alaska Peninsula and comprehensive collection of lands set aside spe- Becharof Refuges for the conservation of fish and cifically to manage and protect wildlife. President wildlife and their habitats, subsistence use by local Theodore Roosevelt designated the first refuge residents, the fulfillment of international treaties in Florida in 1903. Today, more than 545 refuges concerning fish and wildlife, and watershed totaling over 96 million acres have been set aside. protection.

Alaska’s wildlife refuges are special places that For more information: protect our wildlife legacy for future generations. In these vast tracts of untouched wilderness, great Alaska Peninsula National Wildlife Refuge herds of caribou traverse rolling plains, brown Becharof National Wildlife Refuge bears gorge on spawning salmon, wolves howl in P.O. Box 277 MS 545 the distance, and moose browse through count- King Salmon, AK 99613 less thickets. This intense and beautiful scenery ph: 907-246-3339 can only be experienced in Alaska. fax: 907-246-6696

Alaska Peninsula National Wildlife Refuge

A land of towering mountains, active volcanoes, west of Anchorage and 55 miles (89 km) south of Alaska Department of Fish and Game misty fjords, steep cliffs, deep bays and long King Salmon, the refuge is bordered on the north beaches, the Alaska Peninssula National Wildlife by the Becharof National Wildlife Refuge and to Refuge stretches nearly 340 miles along the Alaska the south is split into two sections by Aniakchak McNeil River State Game Sanctuary Peninsula and encompass about 4.3 million acres. National Monument and Preserve. Elevations range from sea level to the summit of Many of the same conditions that make Katmai For more information: Mount Veniaminof at 8,225 feet (2,507 m). Contact the Alaska Peninsula National Wildlife National Park and Preserve such prime bear Refuge by email at [email protected] or on habitat are also found at McNeil River State Game Alaska Department of Fish and Game Located approximately 330 miles (547 km) south- the web at alaskapeninsula.fws.gov Sanctuary. In fact, McNeil Falls attracts even more Wildlife Conservation bears than Brooks Falls. McNeil is famous for its Attn: McNeil River State Game Sanctuary large brown bear population and for the oppor- 333 Raspberry Road Becharof National Wildlife Refuge tunity it affords a small group of visitors to watch Anchorage, AK 99518 bears fishing and interacting in a natural setting. ph: 907-267-2182 The Becharof National Wildlife Refuge contains Salmon, the Becharof National Wildlife Refuge fax: 907-267-2433 a variety of landscapes within its 1.2 million-acre is situated between Katmai National Park and To reduce the human impact on bear behavior email: [email protected] boundary including rolling tundra, wetlands, gla- Preserve to the north and the Alaska Peninsula at McNeil, the Alaska Department of Fish and web: http://www.wildlife.alaska.gov/mcneil/ cial lakes, rivers, rugged cliffs and volcanic peaks. Refuge to the south. Game (ADF&G) limits the number of visitors to Land elevations range from sea level to 4,835 feet 10 people per day by means of a permit lottery. (1,474 m) at the summit of Mount Peulik. Contact the Becharof National Wildlife Refuge Permit applications are due by March 1; a $25 ap- by email at [email protected] or on the web at plication fee is required. Winners are announced Approximately 295 air miles (475 km) southwest becharof.fws.gov in mid-March. Each permit is issued for a four- of Anchorage and 10 miles (16 km) south of King day block of time, from June 7 through August 25.

 The Novarupta Good Neighbors: Alaska Peninsula Map

Alaska State Boroughs

Lake and Peninsula Borough Bristol Bay Borough

Located southwest of Anchorage on the Alaska outstanding recreational opportunities and the The “Gateway to Katmai National Park & the major commercial center. King Salmon, con- Peninsula, the Lake and Peninsula Borough largest run of sockeye salmon in the world. Com- Preserve” and the “sockeye capitol of the nected to Naknek by the 15.5-mile (25 km) Alaska encompasses nearly 24,000 square miles—about mercial fishing, sportfishing and hunting, bear world,” Bristol Bay Borough is located 284 miles Peninsula Highway, serves as the transportation the size of West Virginia. Incorporated in 1989, viewing, subsistence, recreation and tourism, and southwest of Anchorage between two of the most center and site of a former U.S. Air Force Base. the borough includes 17 communities with a com- resource exploration are important economic productive salmon rivers in Southwest Alaska. South Naknek is a more traditional rural commu- bined population of about 1,800 people grouped activities that rely on the bounty of the the Lake nity and is not connected to the other communi- in three distinct geographical areas: the Alaska and Peninsula Borough’s landscape. Yupik, Athapaskan, and Sugpiat Alutiiq people ties in the borough by road. Peninsula/Pacific side, the Alaska Peninsula/Bris- jointly occupied the Bristol Bay area for thou- tol Bay side, and Iliamna Lake/Lake Clark area. For more information: sands of years. The first salmon cannery opened For more information: on Kvichak Bay in 1890. Today, the Bristol Bay The topography varies from the mountainous Lake and Peninsula Borough fishing industry is one of the largest and most Bristol Bay Borough terrain of the Aleutian Range in the east to the P.O. Box 495 valuable in the world. Commerical fishing and P.O. Box 189 vast lake and marsh-dotted lowlands iin the north King Salmon, AK 99613 salmon processing are economic mainstays. Naknek, AK 99633 and west. Lake Iliamna is the largest lake in Alaska ph: 907-246-3421 or 800-764-3421 ph: 907-246-4224 and the second largest lake in the nation. Lake fax: 907-246-6602 Naknek, South Naknek, and King Salmon have fax: 907-246-6633 Clark has long been associated with extraordinary email: [email protected] a combined population of just over 1,250 people. email: [email protected] scenic beauty. Major rivers in the area provide web: www.lakeandpen.com Naknek is the seat of the local government and web: www.theborough.com

The Novarupta  ood w oy r © What’s Bruin?: Current Bear Research at Katmai Monitoring Bear Use: Geographic Harbor

In 2006, Katmai National Park attracts human observers. Data document- obtained funding through the Alaska ing bear group composition (e.g., single Coastal Marine Resources Grant Program to adult male, subadult female, female with purchase necessary equipment for a remote cubs, etc.), human visitation patterns, and camera study in Geographic Harbor, along patterned bear use of the landscape and its the park’s southeastern coast. In the sum- resources will be collected from within this mer of 2007, these remote cameras will be study area. deployed in the field in order to document bear use and activity patterns. The pilot project will focus on (1) how to best “bear-proof” remote cameras on the Located within Amalik Bay, the majority of coast; (2) the best camera locations for ef- visitor use at Geographic Harbor occurs ficiently monitoring both bear and human from mid–July to mid–August. Each year, activity; and (3) assessing bear activity pat- Geographic Harbor hosts a mid-summer terns during both peak and lull periods of pink (humpy) salmon run that attracts a visitor use. large number of bears and which, in turn, n o llecti o c

Brooks River Area nps Long-term observational monitoring of bear Numbers in July 2006 were down, however, and human use of Brooks River will con- likely due to the sporadic and somewhat tinue in 2007. Sampling includes recording diminished availability of salmon at Brooks use of river zones by bears at the individual Falls when compared to the year before. level. Such detailed bear identification re- Approximately 64 different, independent cords have allowed researchers to recognize bears were identified regularly using Brooks many bears that frequent Brooks River River during July 2006, while 59 bears were across study seasons and years. identified using the river in the fall (each seasonal count includes some individual The Brooks River data have shown a long- bears recognized in previous seasons). term increasing trend in bear population.

Estimating Katmai’s Bear Population Density

The Alaska Department of Fish and Game (ADF&G) has developed an aerial double-count line-transect technique to estimate bear density within relatively large study areas. During 2004–2005, NPS resource staff worked cooperatively with ADF&G to use this technique to estimate bear density and population size in Game Management Unit (GMU) 9C, which is largely comprised of Katmai National Park and Preserve.

n Within Katmai, a total of 413 bear groups (657 individuals) were sighted along the 14,400 o km of transect length surveyed. Katmai bear density was estimated at 156 ± 21 bears/1,000 llecti o km² and the corresponding park population estimate was 2,183 ± 379 bears. c nps

Top: Bear 424 at Brooks River as a subadult female in fall 2001.

Bottom: Bear 424 (right) with yearling cub at Brooks River in fall 2005. Bear Genealogy and Behavior: DNA from the Brooks River Area

Long-term observational at Brooks River and to infer relatedness and monitoring of brown bears at Brooks River family structure based on molecular genetic has produced more than a decade’s worth data and field observations. of detailed records on river use and behav- ior of more than 40 known and recognizable DNA is obtained from known brown bears bears. Kin relationships among these bears, without handling them. Rather, researchers n o however, have been inferred only from collect hair samples left on small barbed ls o field observations. In cooperation with U.S. wire snags or skin tissue samples via remote tamara Geological Survey (USGS) Alaska Science biopsy darts designed to fall to the ground / Center scientists, National Park Service after the sample is extracted. Collection of nps resource staff have initiated a project to bear DNA samples will continue at Brooks Transects were flown along elevation contours in mountainous terrain. The transect flight line was automatically recorded using a laptop recorder connected to a GPS receiver. Three bear sightings were determine the population structure of bears River through the 2007 field season. recorded for the transect depicted here.

10 The Novarupta Cultural Resource Management Projects ner . hoh m / nps Abandoned Katmai Village, 1913.

Alagnak Site Added to National Interior Archeological Survey Concludes Register of Historic Places Summer 2007 will be the final field season of a long-term and extensive archeological survey of interior areas of Katmai National Park and Preserve. To date, archeologists have surveyed

As of January 2007, an archeological Rim more than 6,500 acres and located 41 new sites. In addition, the conditions of previously site on the Alagnak Wild River (known to known archeological sites were assessed whenever possible. In 2007 archeologists will survey researchers as DIL-161) has been added to the hills east of the head of Naknek River, the upland valleys at the southeast end of Murray the National Register of Historic Places. Lake, and the Solstice Ridge area. The survey team will continue investigations at the mouth

n of Idavain Creek on Naknek Lake and at the confluence of Contact and Takayofo Creeks in Authorized under the National Historic o the southwest area of the park. Archeologists will also assess the possibility of finding hunting

Preservation Act of 1966, “The Register” is llecti o

c tools left by precontact caribou hunters on ice patches in the Mount Kelez uplands. the nation’s official list of historic properties nps worthy of preservation. DIL-161 joins other Katmai, Aniakchak, and Alagnak sites in this honor, including several Archeological Districts and the Aniakchak Bay Historic Resource Compliance: Landscape District. This new status reflects Brooks Camp Area not only the site’s unique importance, but also the tireless efforts of National Park The cultural resources compliance buried power lines for the new maintenance Service personnel. program continues to review development facility to be constructed at the Valley of projects at Brooks Camp for potential effects Ten Thousand Smokes intersection, while Base avoiding sensitive archeological sites near Over several field seasons, NPS archeolo- 0 1 2 cm to archeological sites. In 2006, during in- gists identified a large prehistoric settle- vestigation of a proposed leach field site, ar- Lake Brooks. ment and a twentieth century historic cabin A rare pigmented ceramic vessel from DIL-161. cheologists identified a previously unknown complex at DIL-161. Intensive survey and Chipped stone tools indicate that villagers prehistoric campsite. This discovery, as well testing revealed that the site occupied 3.8 hunted land mammals, such as caribou, as as the confirmed significance of another acres and contained 46 prehistoric and 7 well as smaller animals. Intriguingly, while archeological site nearby, contributed to the historic features. Most of the prehistoric fishing is the primary activity along the decision to rebuild the Brooks Camp leach features were likely the remains of semi- Alagnak River today, there is little evidence field in its current location. Archeologists subterranean houses. Larger features might of it at DIL-161. Radiocarbon dates point to will monitor removal of the current leach have been community gathering places; site occupation between about 2,300 and field fill. smaller pits may have been used to store 1,200 years ago—a time when other people food. The large, deep houses had central in western Alaska began fishing intensively. At “The Corner,” where the Brooks River hearths, where food was cooked in pot- Either fishing evidence has not survived— flows into Naknek Lake, erosion of a tery vessels. They were probably entered few bones were found in the acidic soils—or pedestrian trail exposed the remnants of by ladder through a hole in the roof. Trees the site was occupied at a time of year when a traditional fishing camp. Their presence are thought to have been scarce at the time, fishing was not the focus of activities. will require careful consideration during the but large post holes were evidence of sturdy planning process for proposed trail reroutes log construction; building such houses us- Many questions remain unanswered about and bridge relocation in this location. ing imported logs worked with stone tools the people who lived at the site. Indeed, the would have required considerable time and prehistory of the Alagnak is still largely un- Elsewhere, monitoring of the Lake Brooks n effort. Stone oil lamps may have helped keep known to archeologists. DIL-161, however, vault toilet excavation revealed archeologi- o

the houses warm, dry, and well-lit. The thin has offered exciting details about house cal components possibly attributed to the llecti o c floor deposits suggested that houses were construction, subsistence, and village orga- 3,500 year old Arctic Small Tool tradition nps cleaned regularly. nization—an invaluable contribution to an (ASTt). During 2007, archeologists will Archeologist assesses test pit at a proposed leach understanding of the region. also work with maintenance staff to install field site at Brooks Camp.

Aniakchak Archeology: Excavation at SUT-027

The NP S Systemwide Archeological ing house floor beneath the shell midden Inventory survey of Aniakchak National further highlighted the site’s uncommon Monument and Preserve (1997–2000) potential for yielding valuable information. identified the Aniakchak Bay site (SUT-027) Indeed, the organic preservation, structural and evaluated its significance relative to elements, and faunal remains hold great all known sites within the park. Resource promise for determining cultural affiliation, managers determined that excavation at subsistence patterns, and the household and SUT-027, one of the four largest villages social organization of the region’s prehis- known in Aniakchak, was necessary in order toric residents. to recover the full range of archeological information threatened by immediate loss Summer 2007 will be the final season of ffman . ho b through erosion. excavations, conducted by NPS staff and / Hamline University. To date, excavations nps Excavation of the Aniakchak Bay site, SUT-027. The large quantity of shell in the midden has have revealed at least two distinct occupa- contributed to soil conditions conducive to tions—a younger, ephemeral occupation by Some of the chipped stone lithics from the tradition to the east. This may represent an excellent bone preservation—both animal a Thule or Koniag related culture, and a low- lower component resemble artifacts found amalgamation of regional characteristics bones and bone and antler tools were recov- er component consistent with an extensive at Aleutian tradition sites to the west, rather than a clear divide between “Eskimo” ered. Preserved wood planks from an erod- occupation, possibly a winter settlement. while others resemble those of the Norton and “Aleut” traditions.

The Novarupta 11 ood w oy r / Changing Perspectives: Southwest Alaska Network nps

Unnamed, ash-covered glaciers scour the southeast flank of Mount Katmai (6,476 ft/2,056 km), Katmai National Park.

The Southwest Alaska Network (SWAN) is one of 32

Inventory and Monitoring programs across the National Park Anchorage System. This national strategy is an effort to assess what natural resources exist in the parks (inventory) and evaluate their present condition (monitoring). Such information is critical for the NPS to Lake Clark Kenai fulfill its mission—it is the scientific foundation for effective, long- National Park term protection and management of natural resources. and Preserve Seward Port Alsworth SWAN comprises five Alaskan park units: Katmai National Park and Preserve, Aniakchak National Monument and Preserve, Alagnak Homer Wild River, Lake Clark National Park and Preserve, and Kenai Alagnak Fjords National Park. Collectively, they encompass 9.4 million acres Wild River Cook Inlet Iliamna Lake Kenai Fjords (~3.8 million ha)—11.6 percent of all NPS managed land, and two Dillingham National Park percent of the Alaska landmass. Among the last remining wilderness areas in the world, SWAN parks are large enough to allow ecological Katmai King Salmon processes and biological diversity to evolve and adapt naturally. National Park and Preserve Network parks share many common characteristics and encompass climatic conditions, geologic features, pristine ecosystems, natural Bristol Bay biodiversity, freshwater, and marine resources equaled few places Kodiak Gulf of in North America. In forming this single network for inventory and Shelikof Strait Alaska monitoring purposes, project funding and management have been Aniakchak streamlined. National Monument and Preserve n SWAN has selected specific key indicators—or “vital signs”—with o rtens which to monitor the condition of park ecosystems. The inventory o m and monitoring projects described in the following pages will occur /d. nps in Katmai National Park and Preserve during the summer of 2007. The five NPS units comprising the Southwest Alaska Network (SWAN) showing physiographic relief.

Monitoring Ecosystem Change: New Weather Stations Collect Climate Data

Climate is considered to be the an interior and a coastal location. single most important factor influencing ecosystem quality. Global models predict Air temperature, relativity humidity, wind that climate change will be most pro- speed and direction, snow depth, solar nounced at high latitudes. Climate data may radiation, and precipitation will be logged provide insight into the causes of a variety hourly at each station. Monthly and annual of ecosystem changes—from changes in weather summaries will be available at the vegetative cover to shifts in terrestrial and Western Regional Climatic Center web site aquatic plant and animal communities. at: www.wrcc.dri.edu/NPS.html. Existing weather stations in Southwest Glacial Extent Alaska primarily support the safety and needs of the aviation community. They are Glaciers, too, are dominant features in the typically located near towns and villages, SWAN parks, especially Katmai, Kenai and tend to be situated at lower elevations Fjords and Lake Clark. In general, Alaska’s in broad valleys. SWAN parks exhibit ex- glaciers have been retreating since the wan- treme elevational and geographic gradients ing of the Little Ice Age (~300 years ago). Al- n and, consequently, climate variability ranges though the ice loss has occurred at varying o llecti from maritime to continental. The current rates since then, a variety of evidence sug- o c

array of weather stations is unable to cap- gests that the rate has significantly increased nps ture this variability. Deployment of weather in recent decades. This recent, widespread SWAN personnel and precipitation tower on the Harding Icefield in Kenai Fjords National Park. stations in remote coastal and mountainous glacial recession is largely responsible for locations of SWAN parks will provide more the substantial landscape changes in SWAN fecting the character of Network watersheds tify change in glacial extent and identify key accurate data concerning local climate pat- parks that are visible today. and indicative of potential shifts in aquatic areas of change in SWAN parks. terns. communities. Because glacier systems are primarily regu- Just recently, Dr. Dorothy Hall of NASA’s Previous seasons’ fieldwork identified lated by climate fluctuations, they provide Satellite imagery is recognized as a simple Goddard Space Flight Center completed numerous potential weather station sites a valuable record of long-term climate and effective means for documenting change mapping glacial extent in Katmai. GIS analy- within Katmai National Park and Preserve. change. Furthermore, glaciers act as huge ice in glacial extent. Landsat satellite imagery is sis will continue in 2007 in order to identify During the 2006 field season, on-the- reservoirs for freshwater storage in SWAN available from the 1970s to present. This im- significant changes in glaciation. ground site surveys were conducted at 9 of parks; indeed, much of the freshwater sys- agery has been used to map glacial extent on these sites. Alaskan climate experts evalu- tems in the Network are currently of glacial a decadal scale in SWAN parks. Icefields and Bruce Giffen ated the survey data and prioritized the sites origin. As such, the extent of glaciation glaciers are outlined using a combination of National Park Service for consideration. Station deployment at se- in SWAN parks has been identified as an automated and manual methods. Geograph- Southwest Alaska Network lect sites will begin in 2007 and will include important vital sign to monitor, directly af- ic information system (GIS) analyses quan-

12 The Novarupta Southwest Alaska Network (cont.) n n o o llecti llecti o o c c

nps nps

Recent spruce bark beetle-induced mortality, Bay of Islands, Katmai National Park (2006). USGS hydrologist installing gauging station at Lake Brooks outflow, Katmai National Park. Insect Outbreaks: Watershed Wellness: Things of the Past…And Present Surface Hydrology and Stream Chemistry Kenai Fjords National Park a key driver of vegetation change In 2005, nine forest sites were sampled in Researchers have noted that oxygen is essential for the survival of most at local and regional landscape levels is Lake Clark National Park and Preserve climate warming is decreasing glacial cover- aquatic organisms, and also affects chemical disturbance. SWAN scientists are interested and on the northern shore of Lake Iliamna, age in SWAN parks, shortening the duration cycling. Turbidity affects visual acuity. in how human and natural disturbances where the recent outbreak has killed thou- of ice cover on lakes, and increasing evapo- interact with one another and with biologi- sands of acres of spruce. U.S. Forest Service ration from water and land surfaces. These In 2006, SWAN began working with the cal communities to produce the vegetation (USFS) aerial surveys show that the current processes appear to be altering the timing U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) in Katmai to patterns we see in our parks today. outbreak began in 1990, peaked in 1996, and magnitude of peak river discharge and establish permanent river monitoring sites and has since declined because most of the shifting lake levels which, in turn, affects addressing these key parameters. Stream In the past, high latitude forests have expe- mature trees have been killed. In Katmai, the stream chemistry and the availability and flow measurements were conducted four rienced widespread mortality and/or loss of oldest trees appear to have succumbed to quality of habitats for fish and other aquatic times between melt-out and freeze-up to canopy cover due to beetle kill already, but populations. Water quality and fish popula- characterize discharge patterns in a glacial insect and disease biologists believe that tions are also directly affected by patterns of (Naknek Lake) and non-glacial (Lake outbreaks. Spruce if the stands remain seasonal and annual flow. Stream flow and Brooks) system. During the 2007 field sea- bark beetles and stressed, further tree lake level measurements, then, are funda- son, USGS will continue to collect stream a variety of native mortality is possible. mental to understanding the biophysical discharge measurements and establish and non-native characteristics of Network watersheds. a stream flow rating curve for each site. defoliators occur at In 2007, three to five Permanent stations will be established and various levels within sites will be sampled Water quality—especially temperature, stream flow and water quality data loggers the SWAN parks. in Katmai National specific conductance, pH, dissolved oxygen, will be installed and programmed to record Changing land use Park and Preserve, turbidity and nutrient availability—is critical data on an hourly basis. Because most water patterns and varia- focusing on mature to the survival, growth and reproduction bodies in SWAN parks meet Alaska water tion in climate may spruce stands, dead of aquatic organisms. Temperature plays an quality standards, focus will be on docu- affect the population and alive, around important role in physiological processes, menting natural variability and monitoring n

dynamics of these o Naknek Lake and affecting the composition of biological com- changes from baseline conditions, possibly

insects and forest llecti Lake Brooks. The munities. Changes in water temperature may associated with climate warming and atmo- o c pathogens, poten- tree-ring data from indicate climate change. Specific conduc- spheric deposition of contaminants. In addi- nps tially altering future Co-Principal Investigator Dr. Ed Berg (left) and field this project should tance reflects the ionic strength or miner- tion, a temperature array will be established forest structure and assistant Matt Bowser examine spruce bark beetle provide insight into alization of water. It is often a signal of the in Naknek Lake and Lake Brooks. Year-re- composition. damage at Lake Clark National Park and Preserve. whether the current source water; a high specific conductance ound temperatures will be recorded along outbreak is similar is representative of a strong groundwater a depth profile ranging from 100–300 feet The current spruce bark beetle outbreak has in scale to previous outbreaks on the Alaska influence. Shifts in pH can affect major (30–91 m). Data will be collected at the end killed approximately 86,500 acres (35,000 Peninsula, or whether it appears to be out- anions (i.e., nitrate, sulfate) and cations (i.e., of the field season, analyzed and presented ha) of forest on the Alaska Peninsula. Past side the historic range of variability. calcium, potassium), total organic carbon, in monthly and annual summaries. bark beetle outbreaks are detected by trace metal concentrations, and biogeo- examining tree-rings and identifying growth Amy Miller chemical processes (i.e., nitrogen fixation). Laurel Bennet pulses caused by beetle-related thinning of National Park Service In SWAN watersheds, low pH may indicate National Park Service the forest. This method assumes that beetles Southwest Alaska Network volcanic influences. Adequate dissolved Southwest Alaska Network kill large trees and spare smaller, pole-sized trees. When the smaller trees must no longer compete with the larger trees for resources (i.e., they are “released” from competition), Marine Kelp and Seagrass Monitoring they grow comparatively faster for a period The marine coastline of SWAN parks comprises almost one-third of all marine coastline in the of time (50–80 years) until the canopy re- National Park System. These 1,180 miles (1,900 km) of coastline include intertidal and subtidal closes and competition again slows their areas which are among the most productive habitats in the Gulf of Alaska. Nearshore habitats growth. Samples from about 100 trees are provide important feeding grounds for larger animals such as sea otters and brown bears and required to quantitatively assess growth provide nurseries for many marine organisms. Kelp and seagrass comprise nearshore “living habi- releases in a forest stand. tats” that serve as a nutrient filter and provide understory and ground cover for planktivorous fish, clams, urchins, and a physical substrate for algae and other invertebrates. Kelps are primary Trees are cored using a threaded steel tube producers in the marine nearshore and, because they are located in shallow water, are especially that is screwed into the center of a tree. The susceptible to the adverse impacts of oil spills and other human-related activities. width of each tree-ring is precisely mea- sured (to 0.01 millimeter) with an electronic In 2006, five permanent ground transects were established along the Katmai coastline for moni- toring change in kelp and seagrasses on the sheltered rocky shorelines. These transects are part micrometer connected to a computer. These n o of a broader coastal monitoring protocol that includes invertebrate surveys. Eight additional measurements generate thousands of ring llecti

o ground stations were visited along the Aniakchak coastline to create a more comprehensive spe- c widths that are analyzed statistically to iden-

nps cies list for kelps and seagrasses. During the 2007 field season, annual monitoring will continue tify consistent patterns of growth releases. SWAN scientists monitor kelp along a transect on at Katmai and low-level aerial photography will be tested as a technique for monitoring annual Consistency in growth releases indicate Katmai’s coast (2006). changes in coverage of canopy kelps and seagrasses. regional forest thinning by bark beetles.

The Novarupta 13 amel h Natural Resource Management Projects peter / nps Devils Desk (far right), Kukak Volcano and Hallo Glacier above Hallo Bay, Katmai National Park.

Salmon Studies

National Park Service researchers are working to develop a better understand- ing of anadromous (oceangoing) and non-anadromous forms of sockeye salm- on. The unique combinations of geologic activity and unparalleled salmon spawn- ing habitat at Aniakchak and Katmai makes them ideally situated laboratories for such studies. Both volcanic and glacial disturbances can quickly and dramati- cally destroy or alter entire watersheds, isolating salmon populations from one n n another, eliminating access to traditional o o llecti llecti

spawning areas, and/or creating access to o o c c

potentially new spawning grounds. nps nps

Male sockeye: beach spawning area (top) and stream spawning area (bottom). Male kokanee: fish diet (top), and a leech diet (bottom). Sockeye Colonization and Kokanee Genetics

Freshwater colonization is an to determine whether these populations spawning locations to determine whether, In the past century, glacial recession along important process in areas where volcanic were reproductively isolated, or were one like other physical measurements, egg size Katmai’s coast has made formerly inacces- activity is ongoing. Thus, at Aniakchak, Na- large interbreeding population spawning differences among populations reflect differ- sible lakes available for sockeye coloniza- tional Park Service resource managers have in multiple locations. Results to date sug- ences in spawning ground characteristics. tion. Furthermore, these lakes are in close a unique opportunity to understand the in- gest clear genetic differences between proximity to the kokanee populations of fluence of volcanic landscapes on biological Albert Johnson Creek, Aniakchak River, Kokanee Genetics interest. In 2007, NPS resource manage- diversity in freshwater systems. and the Surprise Lake beaches—differ- At Katmai, studies are underway to bet- ment staff will collect genetic samples from ences further reflected in the physical ter understand the genetic and biological known kokanee populations, as well as from Sockeye Colonization characteristic of sockeye at each location. diversity of non-anadromous (landlocked) nearby spawning sockeye—in both recently Access to Aniakchak Caldera and the sockeye salmon populations. Traditionally colonized and established populations. freshwater systems within have only been Continued fieldwork in 2007 will: (1) known as kokanee, there are at least three Comparative DNA analyses may shed light available to sockeye since the caldera wall supplement initial genetic analyses with such populations in the park, representing on the genetic and environmental triggers ruptured during a massive flood event 1,800 samples from closely located, individual some of the northernmost kokanee popula- that lead to isolated populations of kokanee years ago (resulting in “The Gates” of the beach populations within Surprise Lake to tions on Earth. These kokanee differ sub- and the extent of genetic divergence that has Aniakchak River). Today, spawning popula- assess the potential for fine-scale genetic stantially from other populations and from occurred since they were established. In ad- tions of sockeye occur at many locations separation within the lake; (2) document each other, especially with respect to body dition, researchers hope to learn about the within Aniakchak Caldera—around Surprise differences in spawning time among size—from extremely small to extremely colonization process and how environmen- Lake and at the head of the Aniakchak River. populations; (3) monitor and evaluate large—and diet—from traditional zooplank- tal factors like climate warming may influ- Consistent spawning activity, however, also overwinter incubation conditions at ton diets to leech and fish diets. They appear ence sockeye populations. Related fieldwork occurs in Albert Johnson Creek, a tributary multiple spawning sites to examine pos- to have diverged from their sockeye relatives will include documentation of habitat use, to the Aniakchak River located outside the sible relationships with spawning time; in time frames differing by thousands of spawning activity, and kokanee diet. caldera. Genetic analyses were conducted and (4) compare the eggs of females along years.

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8 2 The Salmon Story

SFWS u Sockeye, or red salmon, are at dance of this food source, Native people

Clockwise the heart of the economy, ecology, culture, refined and developed their rich and distinct from top: jFemale recreation, history, identity, and food web of cultures, inextricably tied to the land and sockeye create several gravel Southwest Alaska. They hold a place of high all it provides. Traditional uses of these nests or “redds,” depositing up to 1,000 eggs in each; kafter about 8–20 weeks, from esteem among the people of Bristol Bay, abundant salmon resources have received mid-winter to early spring, “alevin” hatch from both in ancient times and today. In the best congressional recognition and protection in fertilized eggs but remain in the redd; lnow called “fry,” young salmon emerge from the gravel between commercial fishing years in recent history, modern times. April and June and swim to freshwater lakes where they the annual sockeye catch was immense—if live for about two years; min the “smolt” stage, salmon mi- grate to sea, undergoing many physiological changes in tran- 3 laid out across the United States, it would Sockeye hatch each winter in freshwater sition to a saltwater existence; nnow bright silver in color, reach from New York City to San Francisco, lakes and streams throughout Alaska, where 7 salmon will spend 2–3 years in the ocean; omost sockeye are four years old when, in June, they return to the river drain- and back again as far as Phoenix. When can- they feed and grow before moving down- ages where they were born; pin freshwater again, sockeye ning was the main method of preserving red stream to the ocean. They will spend two to stop eating, begin to lose weight and weaken while salmon, the one-pound tins packed during three years in saltwater, avoiding predatory more physiological changes lead to the distinctive red color, humped back, and elongated jaw; qfrom one season could have encircled the globe. fish and mammals, nets and fishing lines, August to October, sockeye spawn in their disease and starvation. natal gravel beds, die shortly thereafter, and nutrients from their decaying Salmon first appear in the evolutionary bodies drive the cycle once record nearly two million years ago. Since In the ocean, they reach their maximum again. that time, they have served as a primary weight of around five to seven pounds. After

4 source of protein for animals, people, and a 10,000 mile journey around the North 6 even plants. The role of salmon in the lives Pacific, sockeye return to freshwater in early of local people has always been extremely important, if not critical. With the abun- Continued on next page...

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u 14 The Novarupta 5 The Weed War at Home:

Biological Pollution in the National Parks of Alaska n o

Alaska’s national parks are home Katmai National Park and Preserve. These llecti o c to complex native communities of plants surveys serve as the first source of data to be nps and animals that have developed over mil- used in formulating a long-term control and lions of years. The delicate natural balance monitoring plan for these species. A total of within these communities is threatened by 12 invasive plant species were documented the influx of invasive plants, which are con- in Katmai. Many do not currently pose a sidered the second greatest threat to biodi- serious threat because they are limited to ar- versity after habitat loss. Invasive plants are eas of repeated anthropogenic disturbance not native to an area, display rapid growth, and have not yet invaded native ecosystems. and spread with little or no human assis- However, all of these species should be tance. They are very expensive to remove prevented from moving into more remote and difficult to control once established. areas of the park through control efforts. Invasive plants are a concern because they Several species deserve special attention as threaten the genetic integrity of native flora high priority invaders. through hybridization, can out-compete native plant species for limited resources, Common dandelion (Taraxacum officinale and can change the structure and function ssp. officinale), ubiquitous across most of the of ecosystems. Establishment of invasive United States, is rapidly colonizing Brooks Oxeye daisy (Leucanthemum vulgare) plants can also result in loss of habitat and Camp. Dandelions are capable of forming food sources for native insects, birds, fish, dense colonies in natural areas, suppressing species was found growing along the Valley When compared with parks in the Lower and mammals. and displacing native plants. With targeted of Ten Thousand Smokes road, and there 48, there are relatively few infestations of control efforts in the vicinity of the lodge, is potential for it to spread along the entire exotic plants in Katmai. Fortunately, the In Alaska, National Park Service lands have visitor center, cultural site, and campground, length of the road corridor and beyond. park has fared well in its isolation and has been considered immune to the establish- the ability of dandelion to “hitchhike” with Narrowleaf hawksbeard is very hard to a unique opportunity to prevent problems ment of many pernicious invasive species visitors and employees to other areas of the control once established, although small that have been experienced elsewhere. Col- found in the “Lower 48” states. Each year, park may be eliminated. infestations can be eliminated; it was pulled laboration of NPS staff, visitors and local however, Alaska’s climate and isolation be- up by hand, but multiple weedings each residents is essential to prevent the spread come less of a barrier to invasion. Warming Oxeye daisy (Leucanthemum vulgare) is summer will be necessary until the seed- of invasive plants and protect the trends, increasing development, and the ris- rapidly spreading in many parts of Alaska—a bank is exhausted. health and heritage of the ing number of park visitors are contributing small population was found along Lake Katmai landscape. to the spread of invasive plants in Alaskan Camp Road. This plant has the capacity to Two primary vectors of invasion and spread parks. Fortunately, the NPS has the oppor- proliferate quickly along roadsides, fields, of invasive plants species exist for Katmai: Narrowleaf hawksbeard (Crepis tectorum) tunity to head off invasive plant introduction and riparian areas. Oxeye daisy is a popular seeds or plant material hitchhiking on i n the state before it becomes a problem, ornamental plant that easily escapes cultiva- gear and clothing and the importation of y

Penny Bauder & Jeff Heys ras but research and active manage- tion, out-competing and displacing native contaminated soil, gravel, nursery stock, ael ment must begin now. species. Unfortunately, it is still sold in gar- or heavy equipment into the area. To halt National Park Service h mic den stores and wildflower seed mixes, even the spread of seeds, visitors are encouraged Alaska Exotic Plant Management Team / ces to wash clothes, shoes, and camping gear

In the summer though it is listed as a prohibited weed in uaf of 2005, base- many states. Oxeye daisy can be controlled before traveling into the park and when er d line surveys for by hand-pulling, especially if it is caught traveling between different areas of the bau y invasive plant early enough. New introductions can be park. Soil, gravel, and nursery stock For further information about invasive penn

/ species were prevented by using only native and non-in- should be obtained from weed-free plants or to volunteer as a “weed war- nps carried out in vasive plants in flower gardens. sources whenever possible, and sites rior,” please contact Jeff Heys of the Common dandelion should be carefully monitored for weed National Park Service’s Alaska Exotic Plant (Taraxacum officinalessp. officinale) Narrowleaf hawksbeard (Crepis tectorum) establishment after material has been de- Management Team at 907-644-3451 or is considered highly invasive and has been posited. Vehicles should be washed before visit: www.nps.gov/akso/NatRes/EPMT/ observed spreading throughout Alaska or upon arriving in the park, with special Pages/EPMT_Home.html. at an alarming rate. A very small attention to tires, undercarriage, and any population of this stray clumps of dried material.

Home to Humans Salmon Story (Continued from page 4) (Continued from page 14) archeological and geographic evidence sug- narrow channel in the lake where caribou making it one of the most densely concen- June. In general, the swim up the Naknek gests that these powerful events occurred may have crossed. On the ancient lakeshore trated archeological areas in North America. drainage and into the rivers and lakes of regularly far back into time. archeologists find the remains of campsites The Brooks River sites together have the Katmai takes a few days. where craftsmen created tiny arrowheads by highest known density of Arctic Small Tool In the Brooks River area, archeologists and flickering firelight. tradition (ASTt) dwellings. The ASTt, which Once in freshwater, these wild salmon stop geologists have identified ten distinct ash dates from about 3,800 to 3,000 years ago, is eating and begin to lose weight and weak- layers, the earliest dating to just after the end A thousand years later, people began build- still somewhat of a mystery and is present at en. After returning to their natal stream or of the last ice age (~10,000 years ago). Many ing permanent houses in the area as the lake very few places in Alaska. lakebed, the sockeye will spawn and then of these events were likely very disruptive, level fell. By 3,500 years ago, the water had die. Their bodies are scavenged by birds, even catastrophic, to local communities. lowered so much that the famous Brooks Perhaps it is unsurprising, then, that the fish, and other wildlife, and their remains River falls were created. Salmon pooling Brooks River Archeological District is both return to the ecosystem as nutrients. And Against this backdrop of natural transforma- below the obstacle could be easily harvest- a National Historic Landmark and is listed so the annual salmon life cycle continues. tions, people living in the Brooks River area ed—by people or bears. on the National Register of Historic Places. also experienced cultural changes. Commu- There are only five places in the state of The yearly salmon migration is the basis for nities have used the rich resources available The Brooks area provided an abundance of Alaska that bear both designations. As such, the healthy bear populations of Southwest here for more than 5,000 years. When you resources, and communities became even Brooks Camp is recognized as one of the top Alaska. In July, bears find good fishing at walk along the river, you are following in more settled. By 2,000 years ago, they were five most important places in the state for Brooks Falls. Then, as the fish run subsides, the footsteps of hundreds, even thousands, building larger, deeper houses and manufac- learning about prehistory. they venture off in search of other, more of people before you. Although it seems turing pottery. profitable food sources. In September, like untouched wilderness now, the Brooks bears once again appear at Brooks Camp n River has been a bustling hub of human When Russian explorers reached Katmai o to forage on the salmon carcasses washing activity for millennia. in the 1700s, they described villages with llecti downstream from the spawning grounds. o c snug multi-room houses dug partially into It is a simple, yet extraordinarily complex, nps Five thousand years ago, the water level in the ground. At Brooks Camp, the earliest of annual interaction between mammal and Naknek Lake was much higher (the Naknek these “palaces” date to about 500 years ago. fish, predator and prey. River has gradually been cutting through the glacial moraine that dams the lake). The Brooks Camp landscape is an archeo- Lake Brooks and Naknek Lake were one, logical marvel. There are more than 900 Incised pebble (front and back) from the Cutbank and the Brooks River valley of today was a house depressions in the immediate area, site, Brooks River Bluffs phase (1350–1800 c.e.).

The Novarupta 15 National Park Service Brooks Camp U.S. Department of the Interior

0 400 Meters To Dumpling Mountain The Bear Essentials: 0 400 Feet Visitors to Brooks Camp are required to begin their stay by checking-in at the visitor center North Auditorium for a brief “Bear Etiquette” training course and Floatplane safety talk outlining park regulations. access

Bear Safety Cultural Site Visitor Do not carry food, beverages, or any other Center odorous items around Brooks Camp. Eat and s Rive ok r drink only in buildings or designated picnic ro areas. Water is the only beverage you can con- B Fish freezing Brooks Lodge sume outside of designated areas. building Falls Platform Put garbage in designated indoor receptacles. Riffles Platform

Do not leave gear unattended at any time. Naknek Lake Be alert at all times and make noise where vis- Lower River Platform ibility is limited. If you encounter a bear, stop Broo making noise once the bear is aware of you. ks Fa lls Maintain a distance of 50 yards from any bear. Trail In case of close encounter, speak to the bear in Bus to Valley of a soft voice, wave your arms, and back away Ten Thousand slowly. Smokes meets Food Storage here. All food, beverages, fish, garbage, equipment used to cook or store food, or any other odor- ous items must be properly stored.

Bear Viewing Three viewing platforms provide safe and ideally situated opportunities for observing bear be- Beaver Lake havior. The Lower River Platform is located just Pond across the bridge over Brooks River. An addition- Brooks al .9 miles (1.4 km) of trail (one-way) provides access to the Falls and Riffles Platforms. Floatplane To Valley of access Ten Thousand Smokes Fishing Around Bears When bear activity is at its peak at Brooks Camp, both bears and anglers compete for the Pets Dumpling Mountain Trail Brooks Falls Trail same resources. Expect to spend much more Pets are not allowed within 1.5 miles (2.4 km) From Brooks Camp Campground, this moder- Brooks Falls is accessed via an easy, 1.2 mile (1.9 time out of the water than in, and be prepared of the Brooks Camp (i.e., the Brooks Camp ately strenuous hike climbs 800 ft. (244 m) over km) trail from the Brooks Camp Visitor Center. to give up your fishing hole to a bear at some Developed Area). 1.5 miles (2.4 km) (one-way) to an overlook time during your trip. It is critical that bears do with expansive views of Brooks Camp and Cultural Trail not learn to associate anglers with fish. Preservation Naknek Lake. An additional 2.5 miles (4 km) of From the Brooks Camp Visitor Center, this easy Please don’t remove any cultural artifacts or trail and 1,600 ft. (489 m) of elevation gains the .25 mile (0.4 km) (round-trip) stroll leads to a Be aware of your surroundings—learn where natural objects. summit of Dumpling Mountain. reconstructed prehistoric house, or barabara. bears are likely to appear or “pop-out.” If pos- sible, have someone “spot” bears for you. Water Conservation Please help us in this critical effort by complying Stop fishing well before a bear approaches with water use guidelines posted around camp. “Bear Jam!” within the designated distance of 50 yards. Bear activity at the Lower River may delay crossing Brooks Interpretive Programs River bridge. Please be prepared to wait in windy and/or The splash of a fish in play attracts bears’ atten- Park ranger/naturalist-led activities occur daily. rainy conditions and allow yourself ample time to meet tion. If a bear approaches while a fish is hooked, Inquire at the visitor center for times and avail- meal services and/or your departing flight. be prepared to cut or break your line and move ability (see page 4 for more info). out of the water until the bear passes.

Fish may not be cleaned at Brooks Camp. Brooks Camp Distances If you plan on keeping a fish, kill it immediately, place it in a fish freezing bag (available free at the Brooks Camp Visitor Center) and take it to the fish freezing building near Brooks Lodge. Miles (Kilometers) Camping

Within 1.5 miles (2.4 km) of Brooks Camp (i.e., Visitor Center Camp Brooks Campground River Brooks “The Corner” Cultural Site Lower River Platform Falls Trail Outhouse Falls Platform Lake Brooks the Brooks Camp Developed Area), camping is .3 mi .2 mi .1 mi .3 mi .6 mi 1.2 mi 1.2 mi Visitor Center 0 allowed only in the Brooks Camp Campground (.5 km) (.3 km) (.2 km) (.5 km) (1 km) (1.9 km) (1.9 km) (see page 4 for more info). Brooks Camp .3 mi .4 mi .4 mi .6 mi .9 mi 1.4 mi 1.5 mi 0 Campground (.5 km) (.6 km) (.6 km) (1 km) (1.4 km) (2.3 km) (2.4 km) Accessibility Brooks River .2 mi .4 mi .3 mi .1 mi .4 mi .8 mi 1.1 mi While most trails around Brooks Camp and the 0 trail to Brooks Falls are wheelchair accessible, “The Corner” (.3 km) (.6 km) (.5 km) (.2 km) (.6 km) (1.3 km) (1.8 km) they are unpaved and frequently muddy. Visitors .1 mi .4 mi .3 mi .4 mi .7 mi 1.3 mi 1.4 mi Cultural Site 0 should be prepared to leave the trail in order to (.2 km) (.6 km) (.5 km) (.6 km) (1.1 km) (2.1 km) (2.3 km) avoid a bear. Lower River .3 mi .6 mi .1 mi .4 mi .3 mi .9 mi 1 mi 0 Platform (.5 km) (1 km) (.2 km) (.6 km) (.5 km) (1.4 km) (1.6 km) Hunting and Firearms Falls Trail .6 mi .9 mi .4 mi .7 mi .3 mi .6 mi .7 mi Hunting and firearms are prohibited at Brooks 0 Camp but may be permitted elsewhere (see Outhouse (1 km) (1.4 km) (.6 km) (1.1 km) (.5 km) (1 km) (1.1 km) page 2 for more info). 1.2 mi 1.4 mi .8 mi 1.3 mi .9 mi .6 mi 1.3 mi Falls Platform 0 (1.9 km) (2.3 km) (1.3 km) (2.1 km) (1.4 km) (1 km) (2.1 km) Firewood 1.2 mi 1.5 mi 1.1 mi 1.4 mi 1 mi .7 mi 1.3 mi Please help protect park resources by gathering Lake Brooks 0 (1.9 km) (2.4 km) (1.8 km) (2.3 km) (1.6 km) (1.1 km) (2.1 km) only dead and downed wood. 16 The Novarupta