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Fragrance, Brand diFFerentiation

With so many fragrances on shelves, brand owners must distinguish their brands in ways that resonate with consumers. Connecting with consumers through a variety of innovative methods will fuel the fi ne fragrance market.

espite the poor economy, continues to emerge. In 2009, oud appeared women’s and men’s fi ne in numerous prestige and artisan brands BY AMY MARKS-MCGEE fragrances continue to launch such as Private Blend Oud Wood, and store shelves continue to Kilian Pure Oud, Le Labo Oud 27, Al Oudh be cluttered. According to the by L’Artisan Parfumeur, and Bond No. 9 DNPD Group, “Up to 1,000 new fragrance Signature Perfume, which is based on a 30% IMPACT POINTS lines launch every year.” Brands seek to concentration of oud. Bath & Body Works diff erentiate themselves, and consumers Twilight Woods features base notes of continually seek new and unique products. cypress, oud wood, skin musk, vanilla n New and exotic ingredients can As fi ne fragrances jockey for position, and warm woods, while Citron for Men be leveraged to create enticing new ingredients, innovative packaging highlights base notes of white woods, oud marketing concepts. and applications, hip celebrity fi gures, wood, tonka bean, sandalwood and musks. technology, and education are key drivers Th e signifi cant woody oud introductions of n Packaging aesthetics have been that brands capitalize on to engage 2010 include Jo Malone Oud & Bergamot heavily leveraged as fragrance consumers and capture their attention. under the Cologne Intense Collection, brand differentiators, and portable Henri Bendel Rose & Oud, Kilian Rose Oud, fragrance delivery applications 1001 Nights Armani Privé Oud Royal and such as rollerballs and solids are Ingredients, Oud and Wonderwood by Comme Des Garcons. Spicy nuances oft en accompany woody additional opportunities for points Peppercorn accords. Peppercorn, particularly pink, is of differentiation. Brands and fragrance houses alike experiencing a renaissance. While it was continually search for new and exotic used in Hummer for Men (2004) and Just n In fragrance, certain popular ingredients to create interest and enticing social media platforms have been Me For Women by Paris Hilton (2005), it marketing concepts. Th e woody category is currently a popular ingredient in both relatively underutilized, but it is only is one of the newest and most exciting women’s and men’s fi ne fragrance. Avon a matter of time before fragrance fragrance directions to gain acceptance in Aromadisiac For Her, Chopard Brilliant brands and suppliers better utilize the past few years. Oud wood is a rare and Wish, Play for Her, Gucci social media sites to reach a wider, precious resin found in agarwood formed Guilty, and Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb La younger audience. in the Aquilaria tree from Southeast Asia. Vie en Rose are a few examples of many It is the hottest fi ne fragrance ingredient recent women’s launches that include used in the past year and a half and pink peppercorn notes. Men’s fragrances

26 Fragrance, Brand Differentiation GCI November 2010

GCI1011_MarksMcGee_fcx.indd 26 10/20/10 12:31:31 PM that use pink peppercorn accords are are trendy, with a multitude of products Her and Second Story Chanel Bleu de Chanel for Men and Lolita available. For example, Very Crescent Row trio collection. Lempicka L’Eau au Masculin. Marc Jacobs Hollywood solid is housed in a fashionable The curvaceous Miss Pucci bottle was Bang highlights black, pink and white emerald cut cocktail ring while Kat Von designed by Ora Ito. It mimics the vibrant peppercorns, Jacomo de Jacomo Deep Blue D’s solid perfume ring is an oversized Pucci prints with the use of orange, coral uses white peppercorn, and Homme gun metal rose with a skull. Sarah Jessica and rose colors, and the designer wanted Eau de Toilette Boisée features black Parker’s SJP NYC solid is available in a to capture “a kaleidoscopic, stained-glass peppercorn. gold bracelet cuff with a faceted gem, window” effect. Givenchy Play for Her is the and Leslie Blodgett’s Perfume Diaries are counterpart to the 2008’s men’s Play scent. contained in a pocket-watch compact The bottle is designed to look like an MP3 Innovative Packaging and displayed on a necklace. Fragrance pencils player, but is pink (eau de parfum) and violet Applications sold with a sharpener is another solid (eau de parfum intense). Benefit Cosmetics application. Tova’s Signature Platinum Second Story is a follow up to the Crescent Aesthetics of the bottle and packaging Fragrance Pencil is sold through QVC, and Row trio collection. The new trio of scents— are significant components used to Clean offers the limited edition Perfume Garden of Good and Eva, Lookin’ To Rock differentiate products in an intensely Pencils in Ultimate, Fresh Laundry and Rita and So Hooked On Carmella—follow competitive marketplace. In addition, Provence variants. the same format as the earlier trio. The there has been a plethora of activity for Eco-friendly products and products that company used the cocktail-shaker inspired newer, portable applications that deliver support a cause continue to gain popularity. bottles and the outer row house cartons that fragrance—such as roller balls and solids. A Perfume Organic line is “vegan, certified fold open to create a home interior. Innovative iconic bottle designs that mimic as animal-friendly by PETA and as officially Notable men’s bottle designs are Only the brand’s image, eco-friendly products organic by the USDA.” Each fragrance The Brave by Diesel, featuring a bottle and products that support a cause are all bottle is enclosed in an illustrated “flower shaped like a fist with a silver Diesel ring; tactics used to stand out. seed-embedded box that can be planted Marc Jacobs Bang fragrance, which is Portable fragrances are good for on-the- after use.” The Thierry Mugler Womanity packaged in a silver and black bottle that go consumers. In addition to convenience, fragrance bottle is refillable, and the carton looks crumpled; and ’s The it allows noncommittal consumers to is made from recycled paperboard. To Big Pony Collection, with four fragrances try multiple products before making a create PureDKNY, sourced each numbered and packaged in a different larger investment. A few recent roller vanilla from Uganda through a partnership brightly colored bottle to represent the ball examples are: Kate Spade Twirl Eau with CARE—a humanitarian organization unique fragrance directions and styles. De Parfum Rollerball sold exclusively at focused on fighting global poverty, with an Nordstrom; Victoria’s Secret Life is Pink emphasis on helping women. Interaction and Education Shine Pink with a collectable two heart There are a variety of innovative, charm; and Lilly Pulitzer’s Squeeze/Beachy memorable bottles that reinforce the image Industry organizations and fragrance Rollerball Duo, which uses a dual-ended of iconic brands on the market. In women’s and flavor houses are creating fragrance wand to offer two scents. Solid rings fragrance, bottles that stand out are Miss workshops, exhibits and events to educate and other spill proof jewelry accessories Pucci by , Givenchy Play for the public and connect with consumers

www.GCImagazine.com Fragrance, Brand Differentiation 27

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about this secretive segment of the industry. application. Both apps provide fragrance In January 2010, The Fragrance Foundation recommendations to help consumers sort The public has an initiated the One Drop Changes Everything through the crowded marketplace and ad campaign, and used a variety of make their shopping experience easier. insatiable appetite multimedia platforms—including the In August 2010, announced Internet, social media, print, billboards, SephoraMobile, its new mobile application. for new celebrity in-mall digital screens and retail Web links. Similar to iPerfumer and Ascent iPhone, According to Rochelle Bloom, president of SephoraMobile will provide personalized fragrances, and The Fragrance Foundation, the campaign recommendations and it will allow was created to entice consumers back to consumers access to their own beauty continues to welcome the pleasures of fragrance. Sniffapalooza, purchasing history. founded by Karen Dubin and Karen Adams, Besides fragrance advertisements and these launches. often partners with fragrance houses a handful of self proclaimed perfume such as Symrise and Firmenich to create critics, YouTube is relatively unused for intimate events for “fragrance aficionados.” information from fragrance suppliers. According to Peoplestylewatch.com, “It These fragrance aficionados, non-industry In April 2010, Arylessence, launched a became the network’s biggest-ever single- individuals, get an inside look behind the YouTube channel (www.youtube.com/ day fragrance launch, with over 60,000 scenes, and frequently get to preview new user/Arylessence) to introduce its new units sold over six hours.” fragrance releases. In conjunction with rose collection. The company featured Upcoming fall women’s celebrity Parisian retailer Printemps, Givaudan various interviews with perfumers and introductions include Rihanna Route 22, designed Perfume Workshops in April 2010, fragrance experts discussing these new rose Katy Perry Purr, Sean John Empress, and to “educate the wider public in the history fragrances. Katie Puckrik—a broadcaster, Queen Latifah’s Queen of Hearts. Even and creation of fragrances.” International journalist and performer—pioneered the men’s market follows the trend with Flavors and Fragrances (IFF) partnered the use of YouTube to give perfume celebrity launches. Antonio Banderas with Parsons for Design, reviews. In 2008, she launched Katie released his seventh scent The Secret, The Museum of Modern Art and Coty Inc. Puckrik Smells (www.youtube.com/user/ McGraw Silver by Tim McGraw is the to present HEADSPACE: A Symposium on KatiePuckrikSmells), and, as this issue goes country signer’s third scent and Bruce Scent as Design on March 26, 2010 [covered to press, has 14,000 subscribers. Willis is the newest player to join the trend in the June issue of GCI magazine’s sister In July 2010, Kylie Minogue released her (though the scent is not available in North publication Perfumer & Flavorist and, in seventh fragrance, Pink Sparkle. To promote or South America). In addition, rapper brief, in the July issue of GCI magazine]. her fragrance prior to launch, Minogue inked a deal with Parlux, and a The event was a one-day symposium on posted the “Kylie Pink Sparkle Video fragrance is expected in 2011. the conception, impact, and potential Message,” which had more than 22,000 applications of scent. views by September 1 (www.youtube.com/ The most significant fragrance watch?v=vnYkJ63-QAI&feature=youtube_ Final Observations gdata). It is only a matter of time before collaboration to date is Longwood Garden’s With so much of the same on store shelves fragrance brands and suppliers better utilize Making Scents: The Art and Passion of and fragrances that smell alike, brand YouTube and other social media sites to Fragrance exhibit, on view through owners need to distinguish their brands reach a wider, younger audience. Nov. 21, 2010. Several fragrance houses— in the competitive landscape and resonate including Givaudan, IFF and Robertet— with consumers. Brands and fragrance and fragrance brands such as Chanel, Celebrity Figures suppliers will continue to educate the and Annick Goutal helped consumer and fuel the fine fragrance create this exhibit. Longwood Garden Somewhat surprisingly, celebrity market with new ingredients, innovative describes it as “the first major exhibition, an fragrances, which seemed to be a fad a packaging and applications, up-and-coming intersection of flora, and science.” decade ago, are now an established segment celebrity figures, and technology to engage To coincide with the event, Olivier Polge, of the fine fragrance market. The power consumers, capture their attention and, an IFF perfumer, created the Always in of celebrities is alarming. The public has ultimately, gain market share. n GCI Bloom fragrance. an insatiable appetite for new celebrity fragrances, and continues to welcome these launches. For example, Beyoncé Knowles’ Amy Marks-McGee is the founder Technology, Mobile Apps first fragrance, Heat from Coty, launched of Trendincite LLC (www.trendincite.com), a consulting firm that helps clients cull and YouTube in February 2010, and, according to Macy’s through, distill and translate pertinent CEO Terry Lundgren, the Macy’s chain trend information into tangible products. Mobile phone fragrance applications sold $3 million between February and Trendincite specializes in identifying and and the use of YouTube are the latest March. During the one hour Beyoncé was analyzing trends and recognizing patterns across a variety of technologies being used for fine fragrance. in store signing autographs, the retailer sold industries in order to be proactive instead of reactive to the changing consumer. The company’s core values are to engage In June 2010, Givaudan introduced the 72,000 bottles. Mary J. Blige and Carol’s all five senses, capture inspiration from unexpected places and iPerfumer application for iPhone and Daughter created My Life perfume, and a make the creative process enjoyable. [email protected]; Estée Lauder launched its Ascent iPhone sales program aired on HSN July 31, 2010. 1-888-561-1229

28 Fragrance, Brand Differentiation GCI November 2010

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