THE LURE of MISTASTIN Text and Photos by Herb Pohl

Summer 2006 Vol. 33 No.2 Quarterly Journal of the Wilderness Canoe Association

Our first view of Lake Mistastin, overlayed on top of the earliest map which shows the Mistastin River to which I refer. Probably of little interest to anyone but me. THE LURE OF MISTASTIN Text and photos by Herb Pohl

When I returned home from my trip in '96 (see Nastawgan vol. The lake is the site of an impact crater formed some 36 mil- 25, #3, Autumn '98) it was with a sense of regret and resigna- lion years ago and occupies the centre of a huge corrugated tion, thinking that my wanderings in Labrador had reached bowl. A number of small streams enter it from all directions, their inevitable end. The fasciitis, which had caused me to ter- but they appear much too small to offer reasonable access for minate that trip at the halfway point, seemed to take forever to the canoeist. Perhaps, for this reason I could not find any refer- subside and I interpreted it as a sign that I had to limit myself to ence in the literature of recreational travellers ever visiting the journeys of a less demanding nature, at least in terms of portag- region. The exception is William Brooks Cabot [see exerpts] ing. And so, for several years I tried to put Labrador out of my who made a short detour on foot to the northwestern shore of mind. But there remained one unfulfilled ambition, which the lake in 1910 while on his way back from Indian House Lake would not go away: to see Mistastin Lake. to the coast. I was also intrigued by the fact that the earliest Camp that evening was on a bench of gravel which separated two lakes. maps of the region showed Mistastin modern marriages. I suppose the glue Jim Hudson, the owner of TWA and Lake and its outflow to the coast without that cemented the arrangement was shar- pilot of a turbo Beaver agreed to fly us showing the Kogaluk River above its ing the high cost of getting to the pro- into the camp from Churchill Falls, one. junction with the Mistastin River. That posed starting point at the headwaters of boat and passenger at a time, for less would imply a source older than Cabot, the Notakwanon. than half the quote from Tamarlink. This because he clearly showed the Assiwaban It's a long drive from Southern was a very much-appreciated develop- (Cabot's name for the Kogaluk) above the Ontario to Goose Bay and I thought I did ment, particularly since it promised a juncture of the two streams. Where did well to cover the 2,800 kilometres in two quick departure. Time was an important this information come from? Together, and a half days. Patrick managed the element because Patrick had some teach- this question was all the excuse I needed journey from Michigan in 36 hours. It ing commitments that meant we had to to want to visit the area, although years pointed out a significant difference in our be in Nain on August l l th to catch the of staring at the maps had convinced me capabilities and I could only hope this weekly trip of the Northern Ranger for that to get there would require an inor- difference wouldn't continue beyond the the return journey to Goose Bay. This dinate amount of portaging. And so the end of the road. I had made prior gave us three weeks, normally ample issue was put on the back burner time arrangements with Tamarlink Air to fly time for the distance we had to cover, and again. By the time A.D. 2001 rolled us into a small lake not far from where I but as mentioned above, the expectation along I realized that there wasn't a back had crossed the height of land from of much portaging was going to make burner left in this man's kitchen and it Quebec into Labrador in '84. When I this a slow trip. was now or never. pointed out the unnamed lake on the Bad weather delayed our departure For many years Pat Lewtas and I had large wall map to the agent, I was and by the end of the second day, only I traded stories about our various experi- informed that Torngat Wilderness had made it to the camp. It was situated ences and made tentative plans to go on Adventures (TWA) had a hunting camp on the shore of Crystal Lake - not an offi- a trip together, but somehow it never there. cial name - but quite appropriate. Jim worked out. Pat, who has done a num- "They are flying in supplies right now, Hudson had had the good sense not to ber of remarkable solo trips, probably I because the hunting season is not far clear the area of trees but tried to fit the suspect, didn't want to compromise his away," said the good man and then buildings into the existing vegetation. I in- independence. It was therefore a bit of a added with a knowing smile: "They can stantly liked the place and so apparently surprise when our annual discussions probably fly you in for less money than I did the caribou because they moved ended in his joining me on this occasion, can." It pays sometimes to travel with a through in large numbers on their south- with the understanding that we would be slightly threadbare look and old well- ward migration, without taking offense at completely self-sufficient and could go used equipment: people take pity on our presence. Hunting season was still our separate ways at any time, not unlike you. two weeks away and so I was the only

2 NASTAWGAN SUMMER 2006 man "from away" in camp. The staff mem- The wind had picked up and hurried a Several hours later we were standing bers were old Labrador stock - Martin, succession of wispy clouds across the on a little rise of land at the head of a MacLean and Blake, members of an al- sky. The briefest of showers and evanes- rocky groove of a valley - home to a most extinct race, self sufficient and hard cent rainbows alternated; the distant string of small lakes. Originally carved working with a keen sense of humour. dome of bedrock glowed in the orange out by an eastward-moving glacier, it They are wonderful storytellers who use light of the late sun and the silence was now drained westward. It was the begin- hyperbole with great panache and a deafening. It was a scene that elevates the ning of the stream we planned to follow straight face. In the course of the evening I spirit and nurtures the soul. to Mistastin Lake. Camp that evening mentioned that my old acquaintance, An indifferent morning quickly dete- was on a bench of gravel that separated Horace Goudie, claimed he was the best riorated. A strong headwind, at first only two lakes. The tents were tucked into a man in Labrador when it came to poling a bothersome, steadily increased in force small opening where they were well de- canoe. That brought about a wealth of sto- and carried with it a deluge of cold rain. fended on all sides by a thicket of wil- ries of strength and endurance among the Just about the time when progress be- lows and misshapen spruce. A cold wind trappers at competitions many years ago came impossible, we reached a two-story once again carried along the odd brief with Horace as the central hero, who once building, an outpost camp of Torngat shower, but in the end the sun prevailed carried 800 pounds up a steep hillside. Wilderness Adventures. Nobody was and transformed the harsh surroundings. Horace himself told me later it was eight there and the place was all boarded up, At the end of the next day we had sacks of flour of 5,0 pounds each, still a but an unlocked door on the second reached the confluence with the stream staggering weight. floor gave us access and we quickly that I had followed northward in '96. I Pat didn't join me until the evening of moved in. It was an extraordinary stroke had rejected it in the past as a suitable the third day because of continuing bad of good luck because it's doubtful our approach to reach Mistastin Lake for weather in Churchill Falls. This allowed tents would have survived the coming three good reasons: too steep, too rocky, me to explore the region around the blast in this exposed and barren neigh- and too little water. A brief reconnais- camp at leisure, but I was keenly aware bourhood. All day and through the night sance confirmed the assessment and that this delay was eating into our trav- the wind roared around the building like added a fourth too: too many black flies. elling time and so early the next morn- a 747 on take-off and I soon crawled into Wind and cold had confined them so far ing we said our goodbyes and pushed the sleeping bag to stay warm. By morn- but on this sultry evening they were try- off. By mid-afternoon we had covered ing, the cold front had moved through, ing to make up for lost time and suc- about 15 kilometres and climbed a the rain had stopped and I went for a ceeding. From an aesthetic point of view prominent dome of bedrock It was the hike to high ground. Shortly before noon our little stream was rather pretty in a highest point around and allowed us to we were back on the water, the wind wild sort of way Our descent started see the Labrador landscape at its very subsided somewhat but remaining both- with a portage past waterfalls to a boul- best: hills of glacier-carved corrugated ersome, particularly for Patrick whose dery streambed. Occasionally we'd pad- bedrock covered with a thin veneer of canoe had a lot of freeboard and was dle fifty or a hundred metres and because lichen and moss decorated with innu- thus more susceptible to wind. it was not suitable for lining or walking merable erratics, deep blue bodies of water surrounded by a green border of willows and scraggly trees, white clouds in a blue sky, their shadows racing darkly across the sun-drenched landscape. Fifteen years earlier on my way down the Notakwanon, I had experienced the nasty side of Labrador while camped at the base of this hill and so this was a home-coming of sorts and a deeply moving one because I never expected to have the privilege of seeing it again. We stopped early at the start of the next portage because Pat had wrenched a knee on his way up to the top of our lookout and it seemed best to give him a rest. This gave me a chance to roam around the barren high ground, ostensi- bly to scout the next carry and get a glimpse of what lay ahead, but mostly to absorb the aura that permeated the place. Evening at the first campsite. The dome is partly shown on the left.

NASTAWGAN SUMMER 2006 3 migration. May years earlier it had forced the Innu, whom Cabot visited at Indian House Lake in 1910, to move to the coast. After inelegantly running or portaging many more steep and shallow rapids, to avoid a long stretch of difficult river, we decided to head overland on a direct route to Mistastin Lake. In a situation like this my companion is a model of precision. Starting with the magnetic de- viation adjusted to annual change and the coordinates of the starting and finishing points and who knows what else, he calculates the bearing and follows it, almost but perhaps not quite come hell or high water. I don't know how to do any of that; in fact I don't always trust the compass. I just look at the map (which can't be trusted either), look at the land After many more steep and shallow rapids ... and then follow my nose. In more than three quarters of a century that nose has the boats downstream, we became quite advantages. While I was collecting stones always served me well. On this occasion experienced in the final alternative. At for the fireplace and cutting wood, we set off on our separate routes to the the end of the scorching day we had ad- Patrick could ponder evolution or the lake and the nose won because of some vanced four and a half kilometres, more compass bearing of the next portage. obstruction on the compass route that than we had hoped for. On this fine cool morning, we were delayed Patrick. It gave me a few minutes The day's exertions must have made immediately faced with a nasty stretch of of solitary reflection at the end of the an impression on my companion be- river that, had I been alone, I would have portage, a thanksgiving of sorts, because cause he decided to lighten his load by looked over carefully, but Pat forged I had looked forward to this moment for pouring out a litre of fine brandy, half a ahead without a moment of hesitation many years. litre of vegetable oil and a small moun- and because he seemed to know what he The view from the top of the gravely tain of jujubes, notwithstanding my ref- was doing, I followed. My companion shore some ten metres above the lake erence to Hubbard (who discarded food had negotiated a boulder garden the pre- was quite captivating. The light-blue lake early on his trip in 1903 and later starved vious day with an empty canoe and ex- was as smooth as glass reflecting white to death). By now I had, of course, rec- hibited infinite patience and considerable clouds in a pale sky, the water so clear ognized that Patrick's and my diet had no skill in the process. He clearly was what that you could see legions of massive similarities at all and I was glad of our the fellows at the hunting camp would round boulders staring back at you from separate meal arrangement. For me, un- call a good canoe man. On this and later a great depth. Far to the northeast, a less the sky is about to fall, it's bacon, occasions he proved himself equal to range of barren rock gleamed in the sun- pancakes, maple syrup, and tea for every challenge and I watched his move- shine. We spent the night on the large is- breakfast. Pat starts with a handful of ce- ments with some envy, particularly his land in the centre of the lake and set off real to which he adds cold water; that's agility in getting in and out of his boat at in the morning toward the base of an un- breakfast. In fact the only hot food he critical junctures. usual elevation on the western shore that had each day was the freeze-dried con- On a short and unexpected stretch of we called Table Mountain. A long and tent of a package, again mixed with cold flat water we stopped and climbed a con- tiring hike to the top on another exces- water, which he cooked over the stove. ical hill - the only prominent elevation sively hot day afforded a wonderful view Now, these packages had mouth-water- around - and had our first glimpse of in all directions. Table Mountain is a ing titles but from the short distance Mistastin Lake in the distance. All remnant of the impact melt sheet of the from my fireplace to his stove, they al- around our observation post, deeply re- meteorite collision that created the crater ways looked and smelled the same. cessed game trails indicated that large now occupied by the lake - a massive Nevertheless, he never showed the numbers of caribou had inhabited the re- sentinel and awesome testimony to the slightest interest in the superior foods gion decades ago, as they were all over- enormous energy release of that event. that his travelling companion would grown. Now, not a single footprint dis- In the winter of 2001, Lynne Fitzhugh have been willing to share. I recognized, turbed the ground. It was a clear indica- gave a talk at the annual Wilderness of course, that his approach had certain tion of the unpredictability of caribou Canoe Symposium in Toronto in which

4 NASTAWGAN SUMMER 2006 she mentioned that the Innu of Davis signs of more recent occupation. Shortly will drain him. And so off I go again, Inlet had established a retreat or healing thereafter, our progress came to an early praying and hollering and finally I hear centre on Mistastin Lake. One of our ob- halt at a place that had puzzled me when a faint answer from the direction of the jectives was to visit the place which was I first looked at the map: the contour camp. He was si.tting near the brink of reportedly somewhere on the north lines didn't quite match up and there was the waterfall the whole time and never shore of the lake. In our examination of something odd about it. The oddity, it heard a thing, he told me. There was the shoreline we came across signs of turned out, was a large crack in the murder in my heart, but I was too ex- hunting camps and finally, near the out- shield rock into which the river disap- hausted and relieved to do more than fill let of the lake, the foundations of a build- peared in a magnificent waterfall. The the air with profanity ing and building materials as well as sev- river continued in this fault less than 10 The Mistastin River, below the point eral snowmobiles and komatiks [Eskimo metres wide with vertical rock walls ris- where it drops into the fault, continues a sledges] but no sign of recent human ac- ing a minimum of 20 metres on either turbulent course over falls and ledges. It's tivity The most interesting element to me side. It was a spectacularly wild place wildly beautiful to look at and much less were two ancient tepee sites, one marked and we roamed about for some time. appreciated as a carrying place. The off with yellow tape - no doubt the work Because there was no obvious way to get whole valley i.scomposed of rock that has of my old acquaintance Stephen Loring, down to the river, we set up camp and been fluted and ground into knolls and the archaeologist whom I had met in agreed that Pat would look downstream furrows by thousands of years of flow of 1982 on Voisey's Bay and I upstream. Within an hour I discov- an immense volume of water. We came This area has a most intimidating ered a way down and returned to our across a score of huge trees that rivalled flavour. High walls of bedrock ring the campsite and the usual chores. When it those of the British Columbia rainforest outlet of the lake. They clearly show the started to drizzle and there was still no in size. At the end of a hard day we had effect of the east-northeast direction of sign of Pat I became worried and started advanced no more than three kilometres movement of the ice here during the last to look for him. He was in shirtsleeves, and settled for the best we could find - a period of glaciation. That evidence is ac- the black flies were out in force and I truly miserable campsite made worse by centuated by similarly oriented high es- knew he had no repellent with him. He relentless rain. Patrick crawled into his kers. The Mistastin River begins its jour- wouldn't stay out under these conditions, abode without supper but I had discov- ney with some exuberance and for us the I reasoned; something must have hap- ered a dry chico, which provided the fuel worry was no longer about rocks but size pened to him. An hour's frantic ram- to cook my meal, and I remained at the of waves and sharp eddy lines. We blings brought no answer to my calls. fire until the last morsel of food was gone. stopped for lunch not far below Mistastin Back at the tent there was still no sign of Shortly before noon of the following Lake on the south shore of a small lake the man. It's dusk and all sorts of day we reached a point where the river expansion and here we came across a thoughts surface: if he is out there un- drops more than 100 metres in a series number of very old tepee sites, as well as conscious the whole night the black flies of cascades before continuing the steep

Table Mountain.

NASTAWGAN SUMMER 2006 5 The Mistastin River drops into the fault in a magnificent waterfall.

descent in the narrow gorge of the fault. yet when I checked my journal entries I had started out a little later, returned We had agreed before the start of our trip complained about the same thing. There with his boat, I inexplicably missed out that a lengthy portage would be required seems to be a general tendency to re- on taking a prize-winning photograph. to by-pass this part of the river and be- member events in a more positive light, My companion had obviously applied a fore long were on our way with the first for example, my recollections about the liberal amount of repellent to his face. load, up a long incline toward a small physical demands of this adventure: a This, combined with sweat had become body of water shown on the map. Our good trip, some hard days, but no prob- the final resting place of thousands of route on the second day continued up- lem - just a standard canoe trip. A typi- black flies. You'd swear the man had a hill to another small lake, over the crest cal comment in my journal paints a full beard. of a high hill and thence down into a slightly different picture: "Had a good The next day's journey, high above the large glacier-carved valley. Our expecta- long night in the sack, but it seemed to river valley, involved a surprising amount tion was that the small meandering make little difference; when I got up I of boggy terrain but was the high point stream that occupied the valley floor was was sore, tired and 103 years old." Well, of the portage - both literally and emo- deep enough to float our boats and carry maybe not that much different from tionally - when we could finally look us back to the Mistastin River which it comments on other trips. down and see the river we were heading joins a short distance above the conflu- What is recorded in the journal and for some three hundred metres below. ence with the Kogaluk River. also remembered very well is the density For the descent we loaded up the I am always surprised at how unreli- of black flies. On our journey away from boats and took them down, one at a time able or selective memory is. Time modi- the river we camped at the first body of with ropes attached to bow and stern. At fies, amplifies and erases the original ex- water. I got up with the first light of day the top, the going over barren ground perience. Not long after our return home to retrieve my boat that was still at the was easy, but further down a jungle of Pat mentioned in conversation how ex- river's edge, to try to get it done before alders, willows and spruce thickets and cessively hot many days on this trip had the flies came out in full force. It was a a near vertical slope caused some excite- been, something I couldn't recall at all, failed strategy at best. When Pat, who ment and bloody hard work, bloody

6 NASTAWGAN SUMMER 2006 because the black flies took full advantage of their opportunities. The worst part of the exercise for me was the scramble back up to the top. I had to stop a number of times to catch my breath, while Patrick seemed merely baf- fled by the slow progress. By mid-afternoon all our gear was at a nice open campsite above the river and we were Ocean dead tired. Pat put up his tent and disap- peared in it. I felt duty-bound to take some pictures, especially of our route down the mountain; it had seemed so N adventurous in action, but in the viewfinder was quite unremarkable and I o~Okm I quickly gave up photography in favour of reclining against a tree for a much- needed rest. Our little stream, confined to a bed of sand and shingle, rushed along on a sin- uous and braided course and had just enough water to carry us without inter- reach Nain before the arrival of the storm The journey to Goose Bay was blessed ruption to our reunion with the Mistastin he thought was imminent. I didn't agree with exceptional weather. A slight breeze River and just a few kilometres further with his assessment and we spent the last ruffled the sea and raised a few whitecaps, on, the Kogaluk River. At the confluence night together on a barren island 10 kilo- the sun performing its usual magic and of the two rivers I unsuccessfully tried to metres south of Nain. Looking back, I re- softening even the austere grey of the bar- revisit Cabot's 1904 campsite that I had alize now that he just wanted to get rid of ren outer islands of Jacques Carriers land found in '84, but it was gone. The river me to spend the last evening alone. Solo God gave to Cain. We passed massive ice- had claimed it. It was a sombre day with trippers are funny that way: they like soli- bergs - blue-green islands in a deep blue frequent showers and the rock walls of tude. Of course the predicted storm didn't sea - and the ship circled several of them the Kogaluk River valley looked even materialize, but the Northern Ranger did to give the passengers a chance to take more imposing than I remembered them. and within a few hours after our arrival in pictures. It was a nice, final farewell to a By evening we had covered more dis- Nain we were on our way south. remarkable pan of the world. tance than in the preceding week and set up camp some distance below Cabot Lake in a magical evening of swirling mists and red sunset. We were now quite confident we would make it to Nain in time for the Northern Ranger's departure, provided that we did not meet an unruly sea along the way - an ever-present worry when travelling along the coast. When we reached saltwater, Voisey's Bay was tran- quil and we stopped for an early camp a short time later in a little bay identified on Cabot's map as E. Winters place. Nobody lives there now, but it offers a safe landing spot, fresh water, and a wide panoramic view of the offshore islands. Early the next morning a cold east wind freshened and made paddling not only hard work, but in Patrick's case also worrisome, because he had no spray cover and the waves were getting playful. At one point he suggested I should carryon alone in an attempt to Last falls on Kogalukmistastin.

NASTAWGAN SUMMER 2006 7 MISTASTIN - A SHORT LABRADOR JOURNEY By Pat Lewtas

Southwards lie the small lakes we strug- in northern Labrador, Mistastin Lake fills that so often complicate and mar wilder- gled across. To the east stretches a jumble an oval basin between the Notakwanon ness journeys. We remained together, of meadows and cliffs, now and then and Kogaluk rivers, which connect to the companions by choice. fired by evening sun. Westwards, an au- short Mistastin River and northeasterly to Everything worked well. Herb and I tumn sky frowns over hill, rock and tree. the Kogaluk. After crossing the lake, maintained an amiable distance during From the north sweeps the great wind. Herb and I paddled the Mistastin River the trip - often the wisest policy when Our first camp huddles, far below, until it tumbled into an impassable two people isolate themselves in the against the steeply rising side of the hill: canyon. From there we cut north wilds. But we became fast friends after- two tents on a boggy shore, a few trees, through a chain of ponds to a little creek wards, a result of having done the trip. and a wall of shrubs, Herb tending a fire that feeds back into a gentler, down- in a boulder's lee - a home in a raw land, stream Mistastin. We followed the rest of * * * * cozy for its place. But up here, atop the the Mistastin to the Kogaluk, then that hill, all is wild, thrilling, and grim. Gusts larger river east to the coast. Our trip The north Labrador tableland is paradise rake my hair. Cold bites my face. Cliffs ended with a short ocean paddle north and hell, a beautiful, brutal, and evoca- drop abruptly to valley woods. The to the village of Nain. tive country Windswept angular hills scents of heath and forest fill my nostrils. loom over naked rock and crashing wa- And all around: wind-whipped waters, * * * ters. Patches of trees cling where they stark hills and pockets of defiant trees. can. In a nonce, the weather lurches But I haven't climbed the crag to exult Herb and I had met through the wilder- from one violent extreme to another. in nature's power. I've come to attend a ness community and had nurtured Disintegrating boulders speak of time so reunion. To greet again a land I love, a something more than an acquaintance vast that stone itself crumbles. With its land I haven't seen for far too long. To through a decade of talk about doing a primeval, untamable heart and ill-con- feel again the awesome northern spirits trip together. Both of us had made most trolled power, the place overwhelms. who lift the soul or crush it, nourish the of our journeys alone, so we shared "Humans!" it seems to growl, "Eke out a body or blast it, but ever fill the heart many experiences and attitudes, even if living here you might. But never shall with an unfading cry to return. To be- we didn't know one another well. Most you truly belong I" come again the man I am: a better, sim- solo travelers, I suspect, present an odd Then the clouds pull back, the sun at pler, more contented man. I spread my blend of romantic and realist, conqueror last strikes the land and oh, what a arms in happy surrender to the manic, and flake. Romantic, because only deep galaxy of colors burst forth I The waters uncaring spirits. In a moment it's over. passion pushes one so completely into glow with deepest aquamarine. Trees and I've come home. the wilderness. Realist, because one grasses shine in emerald brilliance. The I clamber down the broken hillside needs hardheaded judgment to flourish caribou moss is a delicate ivory; the toward camp. I almost reach the bottom in tough country without other voices to lichen, orange and red; the rocks and when I spot Herb, climbing, far above. correct mistakes. Conqueror, because a gravel display pinks, browns, blacks and He glances down at me. I wave, then long, solo journey calls for tremendous, grays; the little flowers, purple and yel- start up again to join him. He quickly perhaps misdirected drive. And flake, below fluttering in the wind; the long white speeds away, higher and out of Sight. cause the solitary muse brings with it a strips of sand divide blue water from How foolish of me. Herb is off to a re- tendency to hold aloof where others green shore. union of his own. throw themselves in. And the trees - mostly white spruce, Unsure whether we'd get along and black spruce and tamarack - display * * * * jealous each of his own experience, Herb such variety of form. Sprawling forests, and I planned two solo trips to the same some dense and most open are scattered It was July 2001. Herb Pohl and I had place at the same time. Each of us took groves of elegant conical shapes. come to the north Labrador tableland for our own food, tent and boat. Of course Gnarled, deformed outliers are ground- a two and a half week canoe trip. We we stayed together, paddled together and hugging mats, groveling but alive. And began on one of the Notakwanon River's camped together. But we didn't have to. the incomparable dwarf-forests - stands headwater lakes. We traveled north Strangely enough, the very looseness of of wind-blasted spruce, trunks 20 to 30 through creeks and small lakes alongside our ties bound us more strongly Our lit- cm. across, are barely half a meter high. the Quebec-Labrador height of land, tle group had a contingency that kept These grasp at life where summer winds then swung east down a larger stream to both of us attentive to its well-being. And blow remorselessly and winter low drifts Mistastin Lake. The largest body of water our independence undercut the politics protect. Sometimes the tiny grey skele-

8 NASTAWGAN SUMMER 2006 tons of an entire ghost forest tell of cen- Herb and I spent two exhilarating about the stupidity of a trip where so turies of struggle ended by one or two days exploring the lake. The first after- many decisions cater to a sick pet's harsher seasons. noon we climbed our island's main peak needs. in (frustrated) hopes of a panoramic * *' *' * view. The next day we paddled to the * * * * western end of the lake, where we hiked Our journey began blustery, cool, and to the top of a butte looking over the The land grows higher and rougher as fall-like despite the long July days. But creeks flowing in from the Quebec bor- the lake narrows towards the outlet at its we threaded our way happily along the der. Then we followed the northern northeast end. There the river spills height-of-land. Bracing and often un- shore back east, in rising wind, camping through a cleft in a wall of jagged black comfortable, our days nevertheless not far from the outlet in a stiff blow after rock. Herb and I near this place on a brought home how good it is to be alive. a short but fierce thunderstorm. dark, gusty morning. The water begins to Everything changed when we turned I was very much taken with Mistastin move well back from the opening. It east onto the larger and tougher stream Lake. I promised I would someday return. slides towards the tunnel's mouth with a hurrying towards Mistastin Lake. The python's lazy strength. It draws in the wind faded, the temperature rose, and * * * * uneasy canoeists, who strain their eyes heavy, humid air settled in from the for any hint of danger. And soon enough south. Flies, held in check by the cold, I haven't mentioned the third member of they scramble for land above a rapid's exploded from every bush and tree. Our our group, my dog Cabot, an undersized breaking foam. thick northern clothes sealed us off from Nova Scotia Duck Toller. He was ecstatic Not far past the gate the walls fall the few breezes. Portages became sweaty when we arrived on the Labrador table- back and the river flows less menacingly toil and sleep, fitful and sticky And thus land. He cavorted exuberantly up and But it concedes little. It drops unevenly, we witnessed Mistastin Lake in one of its down the shores. He strutted in the wind throwing the paddler one short but vin- rarest moods. and chased his first caribou. Herb re- dictive portage after another. There's the marked, watching him stride uphill pack pitcher plant portage, over corrugated * *' * *' and all, "That dog. He'll be a different an- ridges crosswise to the river, with a imal by the end of the trip!" steep-Sided hollow partway along. When I portaged out of the forest onto the high Alas, how right he was. The cold I come upon the hollow, pack on back, sand bluffs overlooking the lake's south- weather broke on our fourth evening and I'm surprised to see Herb and his canoe ern shore. And I saw it: Mistastin, dead flies poured into the air. The next day at the bottom. "What in heaven's name is calm, an immensity stretching into the they massacred Cabot. By evening he he doing down there?" I wonder. "Pat," I hazy distance - left, right and ahead. could neither stand nor eat. He con- say to myself, "Don't make the same mis- Herb and I hastened onto the water to vulsed during the night. take." But the land pushes me here, escape the clouds of flies. But relief I agonized about what to do: return nudges me there, and sure enough my eluded us, for we found ourselves upon upstream to a fly-in camp, saving the canoe and I walk into the trap. There's the sun's anvil. Heat pounded down from dog, but abandoning both trip and Herb the up-and-up portage, where the walls the sky and punched up, reflected from or push on, hoping to nurse Cabot drive us higher and higher and higher. the water's surface. Not a breath dis- through to the cooler, breezier coast. I And there's the on-and-on portage, by- turbed the sweltering air. Every few min- chose to go forward. I purged my outfit passing a very short drop, where cliffs utes Herb and I doused ourselves with so that I could carry everything: canoe, force us to walk past a kilometer of flat hatfuls of icy water. We paddled several packs, and, if need be, dog, in only three water before we find a route down. feverish kilometers before making an loads. early camp on the big island at the lake's For much of the rest of the trip I *' * * * center. fought a tiresome battle to keep Cabot A glance at the map won't reveal the away from the flies. I pitched the tent for About a day's travel brought us to the lake's magnificence. Where paper shows him every time we stopped: at lunch, on falls. The river breaks into rapids around low wooded shores, a paddler encoun- portages, and whenever we hiked to a low, rocky island, narrows into a chute, ters foothills rising to the far barren hills higher country One lunch, on ground and plunges 25 meters into a sheer- ringing the basin. Where the chart sug- too uneven for the tent, I trussed Cabot walled bowl. By luck we were able to gests a modestly large lake, a canoeist in a bug jacket. He lay helpless in a hol- make a fairly short portage down a discovers a breathtakingly vast body of low, legs tight to his chest. He didn't tongue of scree to the base of the drop. water. Without featureless water horizons mind, though. He understood. Herb held Then we ventured onto the most re- to numb one's sense of scale, Mistastin his tongue throughout. But I could tell markable piece of water I've ever seen. remains just small enough for the trav- he entertained sour thoughts about the The river turns hard right out of the eler to grasp how huge it really is. foolishness of having the dog along, bowl and enters a thread-thin gorge

NASTAWGAN SUMMER 2006 9 about a kilometer long. Overhanging * * * * easy glimpse of the madness below. The walls rise 20 meters above waters less river finally spits out into a canyon, al- than two canoe-lengths wide. Yet the About every day and a half, Herb and I most 200 meters deep, where it contin- river barely flows. Who can guess to left our canoes to view the country from ues to drop at 20 to 25 metres per kilo- what depths the channel drops? Around higher ground. These forays took us into metre. But these canyon rapids we never a bend or so from the falls one hears starker land away from the rich water's saw. hardly a sound, just droplets off the rim edge. They afforded sights of the immen- Instead, we left the river northwards, landing on still, dark water. sity beyond the nearest hilltops. Most of on a two-day portage through ponds and Herb and I arrived at the top of the all, they allowed us to see so much more small lakes to a creek draining back to falls mid-afternoon, and made camp be- than we ever could from the water. the Mistastin below the canyon. During fore scouting a way around. We expected And they liberated us, however this trek Herb and I marveled at each a long carry First we checked the obvi- briefly, from the canoeist's humdrum other's overland technique. I've always ous route, a dry sluice on the far side of drill. They let us stretch our legs and relied on my compass, and impressed the hill immediately right of the falls, but swing our arms without burdens on our Herb with my ability to hit a small target found that it fell too steeply at the end. backs or paddle-shafts in our hands. over a moderate distance. But Herb im- So Herb and I split up. Herb headed They broke the monotony of paddle, pressed me more. He uses only his wits back towards the falls in search of an im- paddle, paddle, which never fully holds and eyes. He takes in the lay of the land, probable shorter carry I continued to the interest, yet demands just enough at- the direction of the wind, the angle of the look for a way down to the river. tention to keep the mind from its own sun; he studies the map. Then he sets Unfortunately I had to push far down- imaginative wanderings. And they gave out. No, he's not bulls-eye accurate, but stream before I discovered one, having us the satisfaction of looking down on he gets there. He gets there flexibly and scoped out a miserable portage over the world. You see, the poor canoeist intelligently If he encounters an obstacle, badly contorted ground. leads a humble life, exploring wet and he goes around it sensibly He doesn't On my return it began to rain, a chilly, buggy lowland troughs, always peering brainlessly crash over it, or walk a misty drizzle. I had no rain jacket, knew up at things grander than the self. The clumsy rectangle boxing it off to one I'd soon be cold, but welcomed the rain river dictates one's actions, often banish- side. I saw that we have faculties - anyway For the first time in a week I ing one, heavily laden, into swamps, awake in Herb's mind, dormant in mine wasn't hot. Comfortable, content, alone thickets and boulder fields. Unlike the - whose role the compass usurps. I sup- amidst rugged beauty, I felt a thrill of life mountaineer, the canoeist doesn't gaze pose this is always the way Inventions surge through me. I gazed up at the hill down from conquered peaks; unlike the and machines buy us efficiency and ac- overlooking the falls. I'd been gone long, rock climber's deliberate moves, one's curacy at the cost of art, skill, and subtle knew that Herb surely worried, but I was own hectic strokes beat time to a watery intelligence. They make life easier by re- greedy for the view and gave in to the rhythm that can't be ignored. What a fil- tiring corners of our minds. moment. From the top of the hill I saw lip, then, to stride into the hills, to regain Our last portage down to the creek the talus we used the next day I walked some of the sense of power and auton- dropped 280 metres in less than half a it down to make sure it would work and omy lost as a river's slave. And how good kilometre. The top of the slope was cov- scouted the gorge below for hidden it is to return afterwards to boat and ered with grass, heath, and relatively few drops. I'd been away for hours when I re- water, to sanity, to the deeper knowledge stones. So we loaded up the boats and turned to camp. that one never, ever overawes nature. lined them down. Herb took the bowline Herb wasn't there. He'd evidently left in while I manned the stern. What joyl A search of me. I waited awhile before look- * * * * gentle push, a modest tug, but otherwise ing and calling unsuccessfully for him. The the canoe slid along on its own. My, we light was fading when Herb finally got Herb and I beached our canoes above the laughedl Of course, all good things do back. He was furious. At first neither of us river's second great convulsion. Here rac- end. As we entered lower, sheltered said much. Herb's few short outbursts - ing waters squeeze into a tiny channel, country, we came upon shrub thickets, soliloquies - vented frantic concern rather then launch over a narrow lip to tumble then forest, then dense forest, at the same than wrath. We exchanged a few civil into the earth itself. The frenzied river time as the wall steepened into a series of words before parting for our tents. We thunders down, down, down, crashing short faces. Poor Herb worked the hard- made peace more fully next morning. over two 20-metre drops and several est, yanking the bow this way and that to I learned that evening that we were smaller ones, deep into a jagged cut from thread the boat through the trees. But never really two solo trips. We always which escapes only the roar of unspeak- overall what a painless way to finesse an had the freedom to become so, but until able violence. Herb and I gingerly picked otherwise brutal carry And on the way then we were as much a group as any our way across slime-slick rock and lush back for the other boat we gorged our- party of wilderness travelers. The bonds heath, ever moist from wind-blown selves on blueberries. that tie run deep. spume, approaching the rim for an un-

10 NASTAWGAN SUMMER 2006 * * * * sorry: mountains have never done it wave threatened to slop in. I never feel for me. secure further from land than a safe Age played through our journey like a swim. That's not far on the ice-cold somber background chord. Herb, __ * * * * Labrador Sea. One appreciates the pre- years old, regarded this (incorrectly) as cariousness of wilderness travel most his valedictory trip. Early on we portaged The river surrenders its identity to the in- keenly when forcing a technology out- through a clump of ancient white spruce, finite ocean waters. An ebbing tide takes side its proper niche. trees not much more than five metres tall over from a faltering freshwater current. but about 40 or SO centimetres wide at Herb and I hasten seaward to escape the * * * * the base. "Look at those Methuselahs!" boulders and shoals rising out of the Herb exclaimed. 'They don't make things draining estuary For our last night, we camped on a little like they used to." Age weighed on my Our first sea day offered calm waters island, barren but for a few severely mind, too. I'd slipped into middle age. and grand views: westwards up long stunted spruces and the odd tamarack Where Herb gazed uneasily towards a fjords to the dark and rugged interior seedling too young to have succumbed narrowing future, I looked back at the and eastwards through islands to the to a bad year. The wind died. The sky passing of youth. I'd expected to be the open sea. Yet it still drove home how cleared. The sun sank into the western stronger, to have to make allowances, humble a thing is man before the myste- hills. The silence of the north settled over perhaps to pick up the slack from time rious ocean deeps. I was well behind the place. Herb warmed himself by a fire to time. But I started the trip in terrible Herb, and maybe halfway across a two- behind a huge boulder. Cabot, free at last shape, and had to ask Herb to cut the km reach, when I heard a hissing to my from flies, lay atop the boulder like a first day short because of sore knees. I right. My head spun round, but I saw king. vowed never again to let my body grow only widening ripples. Then a hiss to my I wandered to the far side of the is- so weak: I knew now that an older man left. Now right again and nearer this land. I looked across the darkening water tends his garden or harvests weeds. time. Then I saw it. Four black, snake- towards the spruce-silhouetted main- When breaking camp our last morning, like coils arching out of the water, land, watched a pair of seals play in the we had to portage back to the sea across writhing, sinking back, gone. I fought an channel, ran my hands over the lichen- a tidal boulder field. I was heading down upwelling panic. The serpent surfaced encrusted rocks at my side, and gripped with my first load while Herb was re- again, even closer. And this time I could the bleached arm of a long dead tree. turning for his second. "Be careful," he see it as a pod of six or so frolicking "Thank you, trip," I said. "Thank you warned as we passed, "The rocks are very seals. and goodbye." slippery" "Thanks," I said. "Well, you're That afternoon Herb went ashore to not as young as you used to be," he look at a weather-beaten shack. I rested * * * * quipped over his shoulder. 'TIl bear that in the tidal shallows, peering down at the in mind," I chuckled. Indeed I have. barnacled rocks, the seaweed, and the I rounded the last point and beheld Nain animals that made this place home. at the foot of a shallow bay Herb had * * * * Delicate jellyfish floated everywhere: lit- pushed on and already finished his jour- tle bells, blue and fringed, pulsing this ney I set my paddle down and drifted. We bobbed happily down the creek way and that; tiny disks, coin-sized, Every trip is a life born when a canoe and soon rejoined the lower Mistastin. clear, flapping through the water; milky first leaves shore. Through its youth and Swollen by new water, but now tired of bulbs drifting near the surface. On the middle age it matures from awkward en- sharp drops, the river hurried towards bottom, small, shrimp-like crustaceans thusiasm to measured stride. It becomes the Kogaluk with nothing worse than went about their business. The occa- old when the canoeist's mind fixes upon rolling current and bouncy, big-water sional sea urchin nestled amongst the the world beyond it. And it dies when the swifts In no time at all we floated onto mussels. The fronds, knobs and leaves of canoe's prow scrapes onto the last beach. the Kogaluk's Cabot Lake. Long, kelp and algae swayed to the gentle push I felt the life slip away from this little straight and narrow, lined by 300-m and pull of the sea. A world so different journey I felt the better me fall away, too, cliffs, this lake ushers the canoeist into from any the canoeist imagines of the and the other me, the me from the out- the mountainous country of the lower north I side, rouse himself and regain his place. river. It sounds impressive, the photos The next day was windy and cool. We But I knew that trip and better self would look good, but the river runs straight zigzagged north around the eastwards- never truly die, not this time at least. as a shot through a tightly confining tending headlands, crossing the open Both would lie asleep, for a season, a valley, granting a single one-way vista stretches between. Herb's covered boat year, maybe several years, until called that takes a day to change. Yes, it's nice allowed him to buck the swells with forth at the next reunion. I guess, but give me the open, locally hardly a worry For my part, I glanced rugged, ever-changing tableland. I'm anxiously at the gunwales each time a

NASTAWGAN SUMMER 2006 11 THE MEANEST LINK: Linking the Algonquin Outfitters Stores Article and Photos by Jaime Capell, Leah Sanders, Sarah Strickland and Janet Thomas

Lake and stop at Camp Pathfinder, a boys' camp that Swifty had previously owned. The four of us, Jaime Capell, Leah Sanders, Sarah Strickland and Janet Thomas, had met while working at Algonquin Outfitters and worked together for the past few summers, developing a strong friendship. We are all between the ages of 22 and 24 and were coming to a time in our lives where some of us were finishing our university de- grees and moving on to new things, while the others were still in college or university We were at a point where we wanted to do a trip together before we went our separate ways in case we were not working together the following summer. What better way to do this than to commemo- rate our friendship with a special trip! Our interest in the "Meanest Link" began Early start from the Oxtongue Lake store dock. This would be both our start and finish point. as a desire to rise to the challenge, as no From L to R:janet Thomas, Sarah Strickland, jaime Capell, Leah Sanders. one had yet completed the entire trip. All four of us had tripped extensively in It was early in the summer of 2004 to be followed for the trip to be valid. Algonquin Park and were further drawn that the concept of the "Meanest Link" The first was that we had to spend a to the trip because it involved passage first came into existence. Developed by night on Lake Lavieille, preferably at through some yet unvisited areas. As we Algonquin Outfitters employees, Gordon Swiftys favourite campsite. The second were to learn, these "unvisited" areas were Baker and Alex Hurley, the trip was de- was that we had to travel through Source not visited for good reasons. Signed both as a challenge to staff, but more importantly, as a way to honour Bill Swift - Sr. Bill, better known as "Swifty" or "Meanest," - who, in 1961 founded the first Algonquin Outfitters location at Oxtongue Lake. Swifty was a resident of Rochester, New York, but had spent many summers as a camper and staff member at Camp Pathfinder, as well as a guide at the Highland Inn on Cache Lake. His early experiences helped to fos- ter his passion for Algonquin Park and canoe tripping within its boundaries. The concept of the trip was Simple: to join all four Algonquin Outfitters stores in a continuous loop, travelling only by canoe. The estimated duration of the trip would be 12 to 14 days and it would take its participants through a total of four provincial parks. There were, however, some special stipulations that had Oragging on Big East River (Jaime Capell in front, Leah Sanders in back).

12 NASTAWGAN SUMMER 2006 Campsite on Finlayson Lake along the Big East River (third night). This campsite, located on an old ATV trail, was one of the few places along the upper Big East River with suitable tent space.

Portaging along the Oxtongue River in our underwear. Chilly 6 a.m. temperatures made for a very hurried shot!

NASTAWGAN SUMMER 2006 13 planning this trip: where to book permits each night. It was a little bit of a hassle to select where we would be staying every night, as we were not sure how much ground we would be able to cover each day. We had to go with rough esti- mations of where we would camp each night, which turned out to be fairly accurate in the end. The next four days were spent paddling/wading up the Big East River as we made our way through Arrowhead Provincial Park and Big East River Provincial Park. Without a doubt, these were the most challenging days of our adventure. Frustrations ran high as we struggled to pull our boats along algae- covered rocks against the current. Water depth ranged from ankle deep to shoulder height and the majority of our days were spent immersed in water. Minimal rocky shore made lining our boats nearly impossible and portaging through the bush did not prove to be a viable option. Another challenge that this section threw at us was that the geography did not allow for tent placement, except in a select few spots. Steep riverbanks or rocky shoreline offered very few campsite pos- sibilities and our inexperience on this Sand Banks on Big East River. river forced us to gamble. Should we take a potential site and cut our day a little bit short or meet our distance goals, Preparation for the trip began through rest of our trip was supplemented with only to find night approaching with scattered e-mails sent throughout the some topographical maps and some of nowhere to put our tent? 2004/2005 school year. Considerable Hap Wilson's hand-drawn Big East River The fifth day was both the most chal- time was spent deciding when to do the maps from his book, Canoeing and lenging and gratifying of our trip. Over trip as we would be travelling up some Hiking Wild Muskoka: An Eco- the course of the day, we travelled up rivers but down others. The water could Adventure Guide. McCraney Creek, over McCraney dam not be so cold that we could not wade, The first leg of our journey was to de- and into McCraney Lake. McCraney pulling our boats behind us, but it also part from the Oxtongue Lake Algonquin Creek is a 2.5 km section that feeds into had to be high enough to ensure passage Outfitters' store dock and paddle to the the Big East River. Its water level varies down some of the smaller rivers. Due to store dock in the town of Huntsville. throughout the summer, as Ontario the fact that our days would be long, This was a varied day as it started with Hydro periodically releases water maximal hours of daylight were prefer- some river paddling COxtongue River) through the McCraney Dam. The day we able. Finally, it was decided that we but quickly turned into a battle against encountered McCraney Creek was cer- would travel for the first two weeks of the wind to traverse Lake of Bays, tainly a low-water day. The water just June, trading long days, good water lev- Peninsula Lake, Fairy Lake and finally, trickled over rocks, making it impossible els and warmer water for two weeks Lake Vernon. Fifteen hours elapsed be- to keep our gear in the boats as we spent outside in the peak of bug season. tween our departure that morning and dragged upstream. This posed somewhat The next step was to collect maps for our arrival at our campsite at the mouth of of a logistical challenge and finally, two journey. The Algonquin Park map was the Big East River. The length of our first people were assigned to boat-pulling easily pulled out of storage. However, the day indicates one of the difficulties of

14 NASTAWGAN SUMMER 2006 Day 13 sunset on Smoke Lake. A hard day's push to the Oxtongue Riverwas rewarded with some calm night paddling and this amazing view.

duty, while the other two slowly carried un-maintained on the map) making Nipissing ranger cabin (a restored cabin packs over the slippery, rocky terrain. travel easy as we pond-hopped from one that was originally used by park rangers.) Adding to the obstacle course was a large portage to the next. If you are interested Our second night was spent at the camp- number of fallen trees, most with spider in a challenging day of portaging with site adjacent to the Nadine Lake portage. web-like branches. We were reduced to many climbs, then we strongly recom- Water levels on the river were optimal travelling one kilometre every two hours, mend this route (especially in extreme and except for several beaver dams and last two kilometres, seeming to stretch heat and humidity) Arriving at Big Bob logjams, travel was unimpeded. Alder on endlessly. Needless to say, the Sight of Lake, the humidity finally broke, as a trees framed the river as we travelled the McCraney Lake Dam was one of the thunder storm with accompanying along it and this was by far the best area most uplifting moments of the trip. This downpour lit up the sky. The rain was for wildlife viewing, including moose, dam represented the end of the Big East both a welcome Sight and feeling and we deer, waterfowl and certainly leeches. River and our entry into Algonquin Park: left our shelter to feel its cooling effect. The air was also thick with wildlife, the a familiar and tamer environment. The trip then took a turn, both in di- bug jackets and long pants being of great Our first full day in Algonquin Park rection and in terrain, as days seven necessity. (Day 6) was spent travelling up the through nine were spent travelling down The day that we finished the Western Boundary from Daisy Lake to the Nipissing River. Our first night on Nipissing River and reached the Brent Big Bob Lake. All portages were fairly the Nipissing took a bit of a historical store on the shore of Cedar Lake was also well travelled (in spite of being marked twist with our camp beside the Highview a trip highlight. Abundant wildlife and

NASTAWGAN SUMMER 2006 15 beautiful weather served to enhance the We were pleased to see that Swiftys 20 minutes, paddling Algonquin's biggest completion of the trip's second leg. In favourite campsite was vacant and spent lake takes three to four hours. Our journey total, from the Huntsville store to the a good night of sleep on its beautiful down the lake became more of a ride Brent store, we had been travelling for landscape. though as we turned into the south arm of eight days. Some good swimming and a We could feel the end of our third leg the lake, set up sail and rode a tail wind. food drop from co-workers put everyone approaching (Brent Store to Opeongo Store) The sail had to come down with the advent in high spirits. At Brent, we took in some on day eleven. Finishing the 5,305 m of rain, but it had managed to carry us part of the local history swapping stories with portage between Dickson Lake and Bonfield way down the lake and had provided some a true Algonquin Park native, Jake Lake brought its usual sense of accomplish- good fun. Pigeon. ment and before we knew it, we were on The last two days of our trip were pre- After a much needed rest and renewal the shores of Lake Opeongo's east arm. occupied with one thing: the push horne' at Brent, we began one of the most ag- Travelling the length of Lake Opeongo is a Travelling from the Opeongo store back gressive days of our trip. Travelling from rite of passage for canoe trippers in to the Oxtongue Lake store is not a par- Cedar Lake to Lake Lavieille took a total Algonquin Park. While a water-taxi can get ticularly inspiring section. There is a of 14 hours and included 24 portages. you up or down the lake in approximately great deal of pond-hopping and you are

Group shot at the end of the trip at Oxtongue Lake store (from L to R - janet Thomas, jaime Capell, Sarah Strickland, Leah Sanders).

16 NASTAWGAN SUMMER 2006 N

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never far from Highway 60 and its asso- originally based in Rochester. Between and commemorated our store owner in ciated campgrounds. Several times one 1938 and 1951, Swifty was a camper and an experience with friends that we would must cross the highway while portaging employee there and in 1962 bought it never forget. - a situation that seems hardly appropri- from Chief Norton, keeping a 50% share Looking back on the trip, several ate when compared to the rest of the trip. until 1975. points were highlights for us. For one In one day, we travelled from Lake Homecoming (day 14) was a bitter- thing, this was a trip that required no al- Opeongo to the mouth of the Oxtongue sweet day. The meandering upper ternate transportation. We were able to River, stopping at Source Lake along the Oxtongue River propelled our boats effi- set off right from our store dock and loop way. This was a fifteen-hour day and it ciently and allowed us to see a decent right back to it. The trip was also a very left us in a great position to have a fairly amount of wildlife. Every portage good mix of river and lake paddling. We easy last day. brought us closer to completing the chal- found that travelling in low tourist sea- Our stop at Source Lake brought us to lenge we had set out to meet but it also son allowed us the treat of seeing only a Camp Pathfinder where Swifty had pre- meant that our adventure was coming to few other canoe trippers along the way viously been a camper, staff person and an end. Arriving back to our store dock The adversities and constant battle with owner. It was a little bit out of the way and being greeted by all our co-workers, the bugs were rewarded by sharing this but a nice break, as we got to share a friends and families was one of the best, special trip with great friends and being cocktail with some of the staff who were most satisfying feelings in the world. We the first to complete the "Meanest Link." getting the camp ready to open. It is the had just completed a 330 km loop, oldest boys camp in Algonquin Park, pushed ourselves and seen amazing having been established in 1914, though things. We had explored new territory

NASTAWGAN SUMMER 2006 17 TOUGH SUMMER ON THE BACK by Allan Jacobs Photos by Marilyn Sprissler

water and sand (well at least the bugs weren't so bad) made conditions difficult enough that three parties, in whole or in part, stopped early at mission island rather than continue to Chantrey Inlet; all who stopped are strong, fit and experienced Barrenlands paddlers. Two world-class kayakers, Hans Schneller (at the WCS several years ago he described his kayak trip from Greenland to Baffin Island) and Hans Baumgartner lost so much time to the wind and sand that they could not reach Gjoa Haven as planned. The wind did more than force Rob Perkins to stop early; he had the additional discomfort of sharing a small island with a grizzly for two days. Two members of our party also stopped early, but in their case equipment also played a role. Before loading up at the float-plane Across from Mt. Meadowbankback. dock in Yellowknife, we checked out our rental folding boat, only to find that sev- I must preface my remarks by saying that finding difficult through the several hun- eral aluminium tubes had split; one as- Barrenlands trips are just plain magical; dred kilometres or so of sand flats, caus- sumes that the boat had been stored out- everyone I know who has paddled there, ing us much wading and backtracking; side over the winter with water in the this year or any other, wants to go back. of course, navigation was even more dif- tubes. But these are demanding trips, and ficult for kayakers. The large rocker on the replacement the summer of 2005 seems to have had The combination of wind, rain, high boat (an Esquif Canyon) made it so diffi- more that its share of trouble. Some minor difficulties first: Our Back party expected foul weather and we got it. Bathurst Inlet Lodge, not far from Beechey Lake on the Back, re- ports in its 2005 newsletter that the week of 18-24 July "was likely the coldest/ wettest week we have ever had." On the other hand, we are grateful that we didn't have to drag our boats over the ice. Many other parties have done so in previous years and so did Levi Waldron's party (about 10 days ahead of us on the Back) this year. In addition to bad weather, we had very high water; according to Hans Baumgartner, it was several metres higher in the Jim Magrum Lake area than on his previous trip. Some rapids were almost washed out, while we had to line or portage others run by the Drought-Burton parties of 2000 and 2003. As well, the high water made way Escape Rapids.

18 NASTAWGAN SUMMER 2006 cult to handle in even a moderate wind that Bob and Gene were wiped by the time we reached Mission island. Far more serious were the two evacu- ations. There is no need to describe here the events that led to the evacuation of George Drought and Barbara Burton from the lower Back; George did so in his Nastawgan article (spring 2006 issue). And Gillian Mason, on the same trip, spoke at the February 2006 WCA Symposium. My information on the second Back evacuation comes from several sources: Levi Waldron's talk at the 2006 WCS, Bill Layman's article on page 19 of the Fall 2005 Kanawa, Tom Irvin's letter on page 7 of the Winter 2005-2006 Kanawa, pages 11 and 12 of the Bathurst Inlet Lodge Newsletter of 2005, and the thread "Emergency Beacons - PLBs" ini- tiated by Bill Layman at Nunavut. (Canoe Routes, http://www.myccr.com) Lower Gary Lake. A group of seven paddlers from a well-known US organization lost one of their three canoes in Rock Rapids on the according to Bill Layman. The organiza- All was not gloom on the Back lower Back. They were carrying an EPIRB tion is thinking of phasing out its though. As best as I know, six of the 11 and chose to set it off. We were told that EPIRBs. parties known to me finished their trips one boat dumped, its occupants ending I wasn't there and I don't know the as planned. Representatives of three of up on the other side of the river from the circumstances, but the paddlers knew or these parties spoke at the 2006 WCS: rest of the party, and their satellite phone should have known that Levi's party was Emily Stirr and Meg Casey on the 90- was in the lost boat. The Hercules search upstream from them and would arrive in plus-day Borealis expedition, Brian that resulted cost the Canadian taxpayer a few days; and, if they missed Levi, that Johnston on the Meadowbank-Back- about $70,000, not a cent of it justified; our group would arrive in about ten Prince, and Levi Waldron on the Baillie- days. Back to Montreal Island in Chan trey Hypothermia was given as the reason Inlet. for setting off the EPIRB. In deciding Incidentally, Levi's party arrived at the how much credence to give this justifica- Drought -Burton site not long after the tion, one might consider that the rescue explosion. For those who missed his talk, aircraft could not arrive for several hours his group finished despite being wind and that perhaps someone so badly bound for six days at the mouth and chilled as to require evacuation would be then icebound for another six at dead before it arrived. It is perhaps more Montreal Island. Some trip! likely that the group was inexperienced But misfortune was found on the as well as improperly equipped and sim- Kazan also. A hiker surprised a grizzly ply panicked. and was clawed; his companion beat it Levi's party came across the aban- off with a Pelican case. Both were evacu- doned boats and gear and then the lost ated. [Sources: RCMP detachment in boat; the other party could have saved Baker Lake, CCR posting and email from him and his companions a lot of time Bill Layman, and conversations with simply by leaving a note not to be con- Boris Kotelewetz and others in Baker cerned. As the BIL Newsletter describes, Lake]. even the retrieval of the boats and gear And two friends of Bill Layman and had elements of the farcical. Lynda Holland lost their boat, perma- We saw the abandoned boats and gear nently, on the lower Kazan; fortunately but had been warned not to be con- for them another party was close behind cerned. If groups who set off EPIRB'sand and able to rescue them. the like were to be charged for such res- cues, perhaps they would behave more What can be learned from these responsibly, at least in the future. events?

NASTAWGAN SUMMER 2006 19 Barrenlands rivers are too isolated for mentioning to your companions, the feel- a reasonable amount of smarts, you will inexperienced, poorly trained and im- ing that you can see forever, the scent of have a great trip, one to be treasured. properly equipped parties. clean air and the knowledge that there are If we get our act together, we'll sub- Carry a PLB, and carry it in a water- no more than a few dozen people within mit a trip report or two, telling you what proof case on your PFD. hundreds of kilometres in any direction .. a wonderful time we had despite the Do not carry an EPIRB or an ELT;you With experience, careful planning and difficulties. will disgrace yourself if you use it. Do you really want to be written up in Kanawa? Carry a satellite phone and make sure it is well protected. Carry bear protection at all times. Don't hike alone. Learn what other groups are on the river and their travel plans, especially those upstream from you. Expect adversity and have a back-up plan should conditions prevent you from finishing as planned. Insist on examining your boat before flying out. Leave several days slack for wind delays. A final word: Please don't let these troubles lead you to forgo tripping in the Barrens. It's hard to imagine the thrill of watching thousands of caribou stream past your campsite, the Sight so many wolves that a few more are not worth Scouting Rock Rapids.

20 NASTAWGAN SUMMER 2006 CPM #40015547 Published by the Wilderness Canoe Association ISSN 1828-1327 Nastawgan is an Anishinabi word meaning "the way or route"

The WILDERNESS CANOE ASSOCIATION is a non-profit itate the exchange of information and ideas of interest to organization made up of individuals interested in wilder- wilderness travellers, organizes an extensive program of ness travel, mainly by canoe and kayak, but also including trips for members, runs a few basic workshops, and is backpacking and winter trips on both skis and snowshoes. involved in environmental issues relevant to wilderness The club publishes a quarterly journal, Nastawgan, to facil- canoeing.

NEWS RELEASE Book Review March 27/2006 - Winnipeg, Manitoba. Canada. PADDLER'S GUIDE TO KILLARNEY Boreal Forest Network has launched an innovative educational project for youth AND THE FRENCH RIVER by Kevin exploring the significance of the circumpolar boreal (taiga) forest. The UNESCO - Decade of Education for Sustainable Development (DESD) en- Callan, published by The Boston Mills dorsed Boreal Kids Educational Project publicly launches program to develop a set of in- Press, Erin, ON, 2006, softcover, 168 tegrated interactive educational materials on the boreal forest in a range of media for- pages, $19.95. mats that are fully accessible to all youth regardless of their situation or location. Review by Toni Harting. The Boreal Forest Network (BFN) hosted a series of gatherings with various Definitely a good idea to put all this infor- artists, educators, scientists and representatives indigenous communities to share ideas mation on Killarney and the French River for creating a highly innovative program on the boreal forest. into one book Not only are both parks lo- On the basis of the recommendations received from the gatherings, BFN framed cated close together near the north shore a statement of intent that was explicitly designed to nurture the innate sense of inquis- of Georgian Bay, but they are now man- itive exploration and creativity of youth. aged by the same superintendent. It is important that youth understand and appreciate the significant contribution the boreal has and continues to have in shaping countries in the northern hemisphere. This is again a typical KC book, We need to educated future generations of youthabout the richness of the boreal land- packed with insightful information (with scape, the culture and it's contribution to the world," states Don Sullivan, Executive a few little mistakes here and there for Director of the Boreal Forest Network good measure), fine colour maps, the The primary goal of the Boreal Kids Educational programs is to stimulate and trademark KC photographs often show- support youth exploration of natural history, science and cross-cultural knowledge of ing him and family and friends doing the pan boreal forest ecosystem, as well as their own role and sense of identity in rela- things we all love to do in our dear canoe tionship to caring for the land. country. Everything is presented in the This unique educational project is designed from a shared set of core concepts engaging Callan style. and themes and will be delivered via three distinct media formats to youth of all ages in Also, it's good to see how much his boreal nations throughout the world. photography has improved over the The three educational programs are; an interactive, multi-media, educational years. CD-ROM/DVD, with curriculum guide and support materials, an interactive, web- Some of the trips described have al- based, self-directed program allowing youth to network throughout the circumference ready been discussed in several of his of the northern boreal online and a boreal camp program that will provide youth with a hands on boreal experience related to the content covered in both the CD-ROM/DVD earlier books, but there is lots of new in- and web-based programs. formation too. For instance, he takes us "Each educational program will have its own particular focus and youth will to areas just outside of Killarney Park encounter familiar ideas and interact with the educational material to form an inte- where he introduces some really great grated and holistic educational experience on the boreal ecosystem," said Sandra Storm, stuff to explore. And also in the French project curriculum developer. River part of the book he describes a few BFN commissioned Juno award-winning family entertainer, Al Simmons, to routes not previously covered by him, in- write and produce The Heart oj the Boreal, music video and the centrepiece of the Boreal cluding a few routes that are especially Kids Educational Project. good for those paddlers travelling in "When I was asked to write and record a music video about the Boreal Forest, I kayaks. To make this more than just a didn't hesitate, because after spending two amazing days shooting footage in the heart paddler's guide, there's also some useful of the boreal for the video I was completely committed to preserving it", said Simmons. information on hiking and snowshoeing To view The Heart oj the Boreal video and to learn more about this unique proJ- in Killarney. Nice book, very nice book; a ect please visit www.borealkids.org should-have book if you want to explore Contact: Don Sullivan Phone: 1-204-282-2339 or 947-0566, E-mail: [email protected]. this beautiful area.

NASTAWGAN SUMMER 2006 21 WORDS FROM MR. CANOEHEAD

Welcome to the inaugural column of all the famous homes that we can paddle Mr. Canoehead. What is this, you may by and stare at? Are you listening, Kevin ask? Well let me tell you. The new col- Callen? Kind of a canoe version of the umn is intended to be an opinionated, paparazzi, perhaps called the canoe- interesting melange of items to make arazzi! If you get a good photo, sell it and your canoeing experience more interest- buy a new canoe (or several) I Follow it ing. My apologies [7] to the Frantics for all up, photos or not, with a few refresh- the blatant rip-off of the name! ments at the Kee at Bala and your day June 11 Let's begin this issue's column with a would be complete I few words about canoeing in Ontario's On to more serious items, for those Leslie M. Frost Center waters. As with all planning on paddling and camping on free things, abuse tends to destroy them the French River, be aware that the park Canadian Rivers Day and the canoe-in campsites on the lakes wardens plan to crack down on canoeists June 11 comprising the Frost Center's waters are who camp on sites that are not official. June l l th is Canadian Rivers Day. of no exception. So starting as of May Understandable, but with only a limited Canadian Rivers Day gives us the chance 1st, reservations are required. The fees number of sites between Hartley Bay and to take a moment to experience and ho- are a whopping $10.00 per adult per Georgian Bay that are realistically reach- nour Canada's river heritage. night and $5.00 per child per night. able in a day's paddle, how about a little In celebration of our rivers, exciting Supposedly fees are to cover clean-up leeway? Especially now that the fees have events take place across the country. and development of the sites in the area. been implemented, how about putting Whether you take part in an organized Will this happen or will the fees flow into some of that money to work on some event or plan your own Sunday after- the revenues of the municipality? Only new sites instead of that monster visitor noon paddle on June 11th, you will be time will tell. The one upside is that center? We'll see how canoeists adhere to experiencing Canadian Rivers Day. there is no dastardly reservation fee like the enforcement of the rules considering It is also a time to remember the im- our friends in the Provincial Parks there is only one park warden between portant sustaining role of rivers in charge. Check out the website for all the Lake Nipissing and Georgian Bay. Canada and globally. Rivers are vital to details and there are lots of them at: Well, that's it for this issue. If you hear maintain a healthy ocean and a healthy www.algonquinhighlands.ca/wa ter! anything out in the woods that needs earth. Let us raise awareness of their reservations.htm passing on, please let me know. splendor and value to our land and our Here's a question for the paddling Questions &. comments can be ad- heritage. community; why hasn't anyone put to- dressed to canoehead@wilderness canoe- The Canadian Heritage Rivers System, gether a canoe route on Lake Muskoka? association. com. in support of this special day, has pub- How about a canoe route map showing lished an attractive poster. It is available in two sizes, 11 x 17, and 18 x 28, in French and English versions. If you wish to see a pdf, go to the Canadian Heritage FOOD FOR PADDLERS River System website at www.chrs.ca The following recipe comes from long To prepare click What's New, and scroll down to the time WCA member Cathy Gallately who - Add 1/3 cup water to the milk Canadian Rivers Day entry.z notes that this trip favourite is quite rich powder and chocolate chips. If you would like posters, please indi- and decadent, especially on a long trip, Heat until the chocolate is melted. cate how many you would like, size and and is very easy to prepare. Add the rest of the ingredients and language. We will mail them out to you No Bake Brownies mix well. right away. Send poster orders to 3 tbsp skim milk powder Pat into a greased pan and let sit [email protected]. 6 oz semisweet chocolate chips until cool and solid (30 min to In the meantime, please send us your 1/3 cup shredded coconut 1 hour). planned events for June 11th so that we 1/3 cup chopped nuts (walnut or can post them on the website. Either e- hazelnut) This doesn't solidify very well on a mail a detailed description of the event 1/4 cup skor bits (optional) hot summer's day but it is perfect on an to [email protected], or visit the new 1-114 cups graham cracker crumbs Arctic trip. I have placed the pan in cold web page and fill out the quick &. easy 1/3 cup water water to help it solidify. Even if it doesn't registration form for an official posting of At home combine skim milk powder set hard there are never any leftovers - your Canadian Rivers Day celebration I with chocolate chips in one bag and co- just grab a spoon and enjoy! Let's all do our part to celebrate Canadian conut, nuts, skor bits and graham Rivers Day. cracker crumbs in another bag. Barb Young

22 NASTAWGAN SUMMER 2006 Citizens concerned for Michipicoten Bay For those of you who have followed this where we hope you will come in. PRODUCTS controversial project on Lake Superior, After a rigorous application process AND SERVICES you know what is at stake and it looks CCMB was granted CHARITABLE STA- This PRODUCTS AND SERVICES like the quarry will happen, but more far TUS under the umbrellas of ENVIRON- section is available, free of charge reaching than the allowing of this aggre- MENTAL DEFENCE and CANADA and on a first-come, first-served gate mine is the precedent it may set for HELPS, which can accept donations and other areas in Ontario. issue tax receipts on our behalf. basis, to members as well as non- Read below and pass on to others We have a website which is currently members for their announcements who might be able to help. under reconstruction (www.ccmb.ca) regarding items for sale, special Thanks and you can find a summary there of our products, discounts, services, Rob Stimson supporters and activities-to-date. courses, etc. Contact the editor if A donation of any amount would be more information is required. Subject: Michipicoten Bay Lake most helpful and EQUALLY IMPOR- Superior Appeal TANT would be your help in FOR- WCA MERCHANDISE We Dear Friend, WARDING THIS APPEAL TO OTHERS. have a wide selection of WCA mer- Citizens Concerned for Michipicoten Bay Therein lies the success of this campaign chandise available for purchase at all (CCMB) is a grass roots stewardship or- Please add your own note of encour- WCA events (but not by mail order). ganization that was formed in response agement or support when you FOR- to an American-based company's plans to WARD this. (You can do this after you Items available include WCA mugs develop 2.5 kilometres of Lake Superior hit the Forward button.) Thanks so ($5), crests ($3),and decals ($1) We shoreline at Michipicoten Bay into a much for your help. You can't imagine also have WCA clothing in a range quarry. The Company proposes to ship how much we would appreciate your of colours and sizes. Each item is a crushed rock (referred to as traprock by support. high-quality product that has been lake freighter to the States to be used in embroidered with a colourful WCA the building of highways. The site is DONATION OPTIONS logo. At your next event plan to pur- right in the middle of the longest re- Since these organizations accept funds chase one of these garments and maining section of Great Lakes coastline on behalf of many groups YOU MUST proudly represent your organization. with near-wilderness quality. INDICATE THAT YOUR DONATION IS Golf Shirts:$30; Fleece Vests $40; CCMB wants to ensure that if any FOR CITIZENS CONCERNED FOR Fleece Jackets:$60. (Cheque or cash quarrying does take place on this ap- MICHIPICOTEN BAY only) proximately 1000 acre property, it's well- ONLINE: http://www.environmen- For up-to-date information on isolated and buffered from Lake Superior, taldefence.ca/donate/donate.htm Products and Services items, go to and (along with shipping activities) will On the Environmental Defence page, the Bulletin Board of the WCA web- be subject to best-practice environmen- click on the "Donate through Canada site: www.wildernesscanoe.ca. tal controls. The Company's current pro- Helps.org" button. On the Canada posal does NOT do this and instead Helps.org page, you will see a message Survivorman Fans would quarry the most critical shoreline box that asks for "instructions for ENVI- Les Stroud's Survivorman ™ Series section of the property. RONMENTAL DEFENCE". Type in CITI- Season 1 is available on DVD con- The Ontario Government has a policy ZENS CONCERNED FOR MICHIPI- taining 10 episodes for $34.99. If encouraging protection of the globally COTEN BAY you are lucky to be one of the first Significant Great Lakes Heritage Coast on PHONE: 1-877-399-2333 or 250 to purchase, you will received Lakes Superior and Huron but is not pre- 416-323-9521 an autographed copy. pared to defend that policy. It appears Press 0 to skip the menu stuff and go Also on VHS are Less earlier works: from a study commissioned by the directly to a person. Remind them that Snowshoes and Solitude, the award- Ontario Ministry of Northern Develop- your donation is to go to CITIZENS CON- winning documentary about Les and ment and Mines that several other poten- CERNED FOR MICHIPICOTEN BAY his wifes one-year escape from mod- tial quarry sites have been identified MAIL: Environmental Defence ern society to live in the Canadian along the north shore of Lake Superior, 317 Adelaide St W, Suite 705 (See wilderness so this would be a precedent-setter. attachment for forms) Stranded (is the pilot version of To take on a multi-million dollar Toronto, ON M5V 1P9 Survivorman'>"), where Les makes American corporation is no mean task FAX 416-323-9301 his first two ventures out in the and it is also very costly, certainly more Note: If you are out of the country and Canadian Wilderness, without food, than we as individuals can afford. At the cannot benefit from a tax receipt you could water, shelter, matches, or a camera moment we need to generate approxi- send your donation (by cheque) directly crew. Les experiences these 7-day mately $100,000+ to cover expected to: challenges in the heat of summer costs, including an Ontario Municipal CCMB (Citizens Concerned for and the dead of winter. Board hearing which may be the only Michipicoten Bay) To order, go to to http://www. way to achieve our objectives. PO. Box 2043 lesstroudonline. com/shop. html As you have probably guessed this is Wawa, ON, Canada POS 1KO

NASTAWGAN SUMMER 2006 23 WCA Requests changes to the Proposed New Parks Act Creative Writing

WCA recently wrote the support letter cc: Erhard Kraus, The Pike reprinted below to the provincial gov- Wilderness Canoe Association, I finally got him swimming in the shal- ernment on the new proposed Ontario Environmental Chair low water just off the sloping rock shelf New Parks Act Bill 11. Wilderness Canoe Association that I am standing on. Big pike. Looks WCA participated in a workshop in PO Box 91068 to be pretty close to a metre in length. December '05 and joins the Wildlands 2901 Bayview Ave. He's finning himself in the water recov- League and Sierra Legal Defense Fund in Toronto, ON ering from the titanic struggle that we requesting changes to the proposed law. M2K 2Y6 both have waged He was fighting for his life, and I was trying to reel him in on March 24, 2006 For more information, see eight pound test. The Right Honorable www.wildlandsleague.org/ The North Knife River in Manitoba is Dalton McGuinty, Premier See also PDF of Billll at a good brook trout river and I was trying Legislative Building www.ontla.on.ca/documentslbills/38_ mightily to catch them. It was surprising Queen's Park Parliamentisession2lbO 11_e.html to me that this big pike took the shad Toronto, ON imitation lure out in fast water where I M7A 1A1 had cast it. Pike are not noted for liking fast current. They are a game fish that Comments to Bill 11 - Proposed WANTED usually prefers quiet pools or backwa- Parks Act ters. There must have hide and rest in. Information on sources for #10 cans of Reference: First Reading, October 25, One that he could venture out of at his dehydrated or freeze-dried staples such 2005 choosing to see what the current had to as vegs, cubed and diced beef and bring. chicken, tomato and egg powders. The Wilderness Canoe Association, a ca- Now that I had the pike in close to Because club members may be inter- noeing organization of over 700 mem- shore I could get a better look at him. I ested, please forward your responses to bers would like to express its support for thought that he was grinning at me. I the editor ([email protected]) and we the spirit of the new act. Its focus on couldn't understand why I had him, he will publish the information in the conservation goals will help the Province was tired, and he had lost the struggle fall issue of Nastwagan. Also, copy achieve those goals. that we had both engaged in. But I could [email protected] After a careful review, and in coopera- tell that he wasn't beaten. He didn't act tion with other NGOs, the WCA has like it. It was the look in his eyes. found some weak areas in the wording of Defiant, confident, fearless It was as if the proposed law. Specifically, the con- his eyes were saying, "You can kill me, cept of Ecological Integrity deserves fur- Membership but that is not the important thing. The ther strengthening in the law, some of the Administrator wilderness is the important thing. The permitted industrial uses must be re- WANTED I!! struggle here for survival goes on as it al- worded, First Nations Interests must re- ways has. WCA is looking for an organized ceive due consideration, other jurisdic- As long as you haven't killed the individual to take on the chal- tions such as municipalities must be di- wilderness I am not beaten." lenge of administering member- rected towards special considerations for We already had a couple of brook ship for our organization. the protected areas, and a new loop hole trout on shore. Filleted and ready for - permitting motorized recreational use job Description includes: dinner. I took out my pocket pliers and of wilderness parks - must be removed. • Receiving and processing of fished the hook out of the pike'S jaws. It We are thus joining the Wildlands membership renewal forms. took him a moment to realize that he League and the Sierra Legal Defense was free. Then he didn't dart away, but • Administering database with Fund in their critique of the law and just swam slowly out to deeper water. membership information. support the request for change, as out- I thought that I saw his eyes give me lined in the attached document • Helping with mailing of one last look before disappearing. He "Comments on the First Reading of Bill Nastawgan Mailing. was still grinning. I decided that the pike 11" of March 6, 2006. Please take these Handling this responsibility in- was right in his assessment of the strug- comments into account when revising volves a great deal of trust. Only gle. At this moment and at this place on the new act. members with two years (or the North Knife River, the wilderness was Yours Sincerely, longer) tenure with WCA should still alive and well. Then I grinned back. George Drought apply. Wilderness Canoe Association, Chairman of the Board Greg Went

24 NASTAWGAN SUMMER 2006 Wilderness Classics published by Natural Heritage Books http://www.naturalheritagebooks.com

See artwork by Rod MacIver, Heron DanceBooks on right

Sleeping Island By: P G. Downes Number of pages: 330 Format: Trade Paperback Sleeping Island is the sensitively written and moving account of one of PG. Downes' trips, a journey made in 1939 to remote, and at that time un- mapped, Nueltin Lake.

True North By: Elliott Merrick Foreword By: Lawrence Millman Friendship (Artist: Rod Mciver). Number of pages: 320 Format: Trade Paperback A 1930s classic of the joys and hard- ships of life in the Labrador wilder- WOODEN CANOE ASSEMBLY AT KEUKA COLLEGE, NEW YORK ness. HIGHLIGHTS RACINE CANOES A Death on the Barrens The Wooden Canoe Heritage Asso- The Assembly is a place to learn about ciation (WCHA) is devoted to preserving, your canoe; how to repair, restore and By: George Grinnell studying, building, restoring and using maintain it, where and how to paddle it, Illustrated By: Roderick MacIver wooden and birch bark canoes, and to and generally how to get the most out of Number of pages: 192 disseminating information about canoe- the wooden canoe experience. Format: Trade Paperback ing heritage in North America. The Assembly program focuses on ac- In 1955, author George Grinnell was The 2006 Annual WCHA Assembly tivities related to the construction and re- one of five young men who set off on will be held in the Finger Lakes region of pair of wooden canoes, canoeing and a canoe trip through Canada's Arctic. New York at Keuka College, Keuka Park, camping skills and crafts. They ran out of food. Winter closed from July 12th (beginning with the Other featured speakers at the evening in. Then the group inadvertently evening program) to July15th. Featured programs include Sue Audette, author of went over a waterfall and the leader this year will be Racine boatyards and ca- "The Old Town' Canoe Company: Our was killed. noes. Racine canoes were built for nearly First Hundred Years," who will share hu- 50 years by five separate boatyards, each morous and sometimes poignant messages of which was called "The Racine Boat received by the company (Wednesday) Company" On Thursday evening, Steve and Kate Williams, Executive Director of Wheeler, a native of Racine, WI and cur- the Northern Forest Canoe Trail who will rent resident of Loveland, CO, will share present an overview of this 740-mile long Canadian Canoe his knowledge of these boatyards, that historic waterway (Thursday). Museum Support turned out a huge variety of vessels, rang- Participating vendors at the Assembly You can support the ing from simple rowboats to US include many of the world's premier Canadian Canoe Museum Government lightships to some of the builders and restorers of wooden canoes by buying the "Canoesongs most famous yachts of the day (including birch barks), as well as dealers This annual event includes opportuni- in new and antique canoe gear and re- Volume1/" CD.Ibought volume I and really liked it. ties for WCHA members and other canoe lated arts and crafts. Purchase or hear previews enthusiasts to meet and exchange ideas; The Assembly also includes a wide at http://www.canoesongs. participate in and attend seminars and range of activities for children who attend ca/store.php lectures; paddle; buy and sell canoes and the event with a registered adult. related equipment; and generally have a Program and registration information great time celebrating wooden canoes. is available at http://wcha.orgl.

NASTAWGAN SUMMER 2006 25 PROJECT CANOE

What happens when a young person who did not have to look far to find the young profile organization. A total of $8000 an- has known only the urban environment has people who became the first campers with nually comes from individual donors. Only an opportunity to experience challenge and Project CA.N.O.E. An early partnership 10% of annual operating funds are derived personal growth in the wilderness' What with the Children's Aid Society (CAS) in from camper fees. Despite rising costs, happens when a group of youth from inner- Toronto brought him in contact with youth camper fees have remained the same as the city Toronto must work together to meet in clear need of the kinds of experiences he years have passed and subsidies are avail- their needs while paddling from campsite wanted to provide. able for campers who need them. to campsite in Ternagami? What happens The first year of operation was driven A grant from the Ontario Trillium when kids are empowered by their experi- completely by volunteers and based out of Foundation allowed for a full time Executive ences in the outdoors and can transfer what Herb's home in Toronto. An existing pro- Director, Pegi Dover, to be hired three years they learn back to their communities' gram called Project Whitewater provided ago. Bringing an Executive Director on These are the kinds of questions Herb Batt the model that continues to exist today: 2 board marked an important milestone for was asking in 1976 when he founded staff and 4 participants on each trip to en- Project CAN.O.E. as an organization. In Project CANO.E.(Creative and Natural sure that kids receive the individual atten- addition to Pegi's contributions, coordina- Outdoor Experiences) and took the first tion they need. Far less formal in structure tion and development of off season pro- group of deserving young people out of the than it is today, Project CAN.O.E. began gramming is now managed by Julie city and into the therapeutic wilderness. with a shoestring budget, borrowed canoes Markham, also a full-time staff member. The answers to these questions have res- and tents, a few food donations, and a The dedicated staff teams of Project onated positively through the nearly three small but committed network of people CA.N.O.E. have been instrumental in the decades that Project CAN.O.E. has oper- who wanted to do good for kids. success of the program. The volunteer ated with a simple but profound mission: After that first summer, both first hand Board of Directors has seen only three Help youth build positive futures for them- experience and feedback from CAS whole- Presidents in 30 years. Current President selves. Youth gain self-esteem, life skills and heartedly supported the preservation of David Sugarman has been in his position healthy interpersonal relationships through Project CA.N.O.E. The trips had served as for ten years. There is little surprise that wilderness canoe trips and other challeng- vehicles for kids to learn that they could staffing comprises Project CA.N.O.E.'s ing outdoor activities. This mission pro- make more positive use of their abilities. greatest single budget item. Project vides the framework for a tremendously Project CAN.O.E. experiences had altered CA. N.O.E. staff are certified trip leaders successful program. Since 1976, Project the life patterns of participants and would and lifeguards, with wilderness first aid CAN.O.E. has served over 2,500 youth continue to do so for years to come. training and extensive experience working between the ages of 12-18 with learning, For the next few seasons, some mem- with youth. All staff participate in six social, behavioural, and economic difficul- bers of the original team stayed involved weeks of training prior to the first trip with ties. Canoe trips are the medium for per- but in large part Project CA.N.O.E. was youth. While hard skill development plays sonal growth and every effort is made to driven by Herb and supported by individ- an important role in staff training, the most provide a customized experience that meets uals who believed in the initiative. Church critical component of training is the devel- individual participant needs. For many par- basements served as storage facilities and opment of good judgment and decision ticipants, the Project CAN.O.E. experience seasonal offices and Herb both organized making skills. Once on trip, staff must as- is truly life changing. and led trips for the first fifteen years of op- sess and react to any situation that may Many factors have contributed to the eration. Now a senior volunteer advisor, he arise and the comprehensive training pe- success of Project CA.N.O.E. including continues to help shape the present and fu- riod gives them the knowledge and confi- dedicated and experienced staff and board ture operations of Project CA.N.O.E .. dence to do so. members, partnerships with a variety of While the core concepts and philoso- Another key component of success for youth serving organizations, financial sup- phies have remained the same since the be- Project CA.N.O.E. has been and continues port from individuals and groups who have ginning, outside influences have impacted to be partnerships with other likeminded seen the benefit of the program, and the the development of Project CAN.O.E. The organizations and agencies. The last few outstanding efforts of those who make the 1978 Temiskaming tragedy, in which 12 years have seen these partnerships expand- program possible. Through three decades, students from St.John's School drowned in ing to reach out to young people who need the original program model created in choppy waters while on a canoe trip, Project CA.N.O.E. experiences most. Some 1976 has remained, as has the collabora- changed the face of outdoor education. agency partners include Youthlink, the tive, grassroots approach to operation. The Project CAN.O.E. was no exception. Jane-finch Community and Family Centre, scale of Project CAN.O.E. today has been Safety had always been important but the Eva's Place, Amelia Rising Sexual Assault made possible by the dedicated work of concept of risk management took on new Centre and Central Toronto Youth Services. those who have believed in the power of meaning and has since evolved into the In some cases, grants allow Project what PC experiences can do for youth. comprehensive risk management plan now CAN.O.E. to provide trips without any Humble beginnings best describe the in place and reviewed annually by the cost to partner organizations. inception of Project CA.N .O.E.. As a grad- Project CAN.O.E. Board of Directors. Teachers working with high school stu- uate student at the University of Toronto, A Young Canada Works grant made dents in outdoor education programs may Herb Batt wanted to work with people who program operation and expansion possible also take advantage of Project CA.N.O.E. had not been as fortunate as he had. He in early days but when it was cut, funding program offerings before and after the sum- wanted to take struggling youth canoeing had to be reworked. Funding now comes mer. Bruce Murphy at New Liskgard High and camping; to give them a chance to rec- from a diverse list of individual, govern- School had Grade 9 students participate in ognize their own strengths and interact ment, foundation, corporate and other a Project CAN.O.E. trip in September. positively with their peers. So he started group donations. Corporate donations are Pegi would like to see more partnerships Project CAN.O.E. and did just that. Herb few as Project CAN.O.E. is a relatively low with teachers that would see students par-

26 NASTAWGAN SUMMER 2006 ticipating in Project C.A.N.OT trips in has translated into an environmental stew- While donor support can be tremen- June while the Project C.A.N.O.E. staff ardship component to every trip. dous, it can also be transitory. Project team is training. Hands on trips with stu- Participants work on projects including C.AN.O.E. is completely dependent on dents would provide an excellent training trail maintenance, kybo construction, and ongoing financial support from outside opportunity [or staff and an exciting op- campsite clean-ups and are careful to leave sources. A long term goal for Project portunity for school groups to take advan- campsites in better condition than they CA N.0T is true financial sustainability tage of Project CAN.O.E. resources. were found. Staffmembers and participants and the positive results of program evalua- A sophisticated program model pro- develop close bonds as they live, work and tions may help to garner greater ongoing vides the framework for all Project play together on trip. Bonds formed on trip support. C.AN.O.E. activities. The model features endure long after the return to the city. Visions for the future of Project program components like providing each A questionnaire completed by all agen- CAN.OT are shared by Herb Batt, the camper with an emotionally safe experi- cies and parents two weeks after campers current Board of Directors and staff. These ence in a group and tailored to them as in- return from trip provides some insight into visions are outlined in the organization's dividuals. Immediate, intermediate and the impacts the experience has made on current Strategic Plan (2003-2008). They long-term goals all stem from various pro- participants. The greatest source of positive would like to provide more ongoing program components. Some immediate goals encouragement however, often comes from grams for participants outside of the trip are for campers to feel challenged in a safe the letters received from former campers. experience. Being able to do more for the environment, to redefine success by expe- In one such letter a participant writes: campers served is more of a focus than ex- riencing success through effort, and to "... For every person there is a pinnacle panding the program to serve greater num- learn about alternative perspectives and moment that ultimately influences every bers. Academic credit and bursaries are strategies for coping with a variety of situa- decision you make after this experience; among the different potential avenues of tions. Intermediate goals are for campers to Project C.AN.O.E. gave me mine with its support. As LITs complete their programs recognize their capabilities and individual dedicated staff and admirable purpose to and are no longer of eligible age for more strengths, to feel capable of developing make the world a better place for people trips, it is hoped that they will continue to what they did not previously think they like me." (Maggie E.) build skills, including those required to could or moving in a direction they previ- work in a camp environment, perhaps re- ously though was not possible and to de- Another participant writes: turning to project C.AN.O.E. as staff in the velop interpersonal skills. Long term goals "In those two weeks I learned disci- future. Such a situation would allow con- aim to see campers develop resiliency, ca- pline, teamwork, responsibility and ac- tinued participation for past campers as pacity and important life skills that they countability; lessons no other person or well as a staff team that better reflects the continue to improve in the future and to group of people taught me. Many years population from which participants are learn and continue using prosocial bevhav- later I still live by the values that Project drawn. iour. Staff teams become familiar with the C.AN.O.E. instilled in me. Thank you for As the 30th anniversary year ap- model and use it as a constant reminder of making a difference in my life" (Edwin 0.) proaches, a major focus on reconnecting the program goals they are working to former and current campers and staff is un- achieve with their campers. Testimonials like these speak volumes derway. There is now a system in place for A Project C.AN.O.E. experience begins for the positive impact Project CAN.O.E. tracking campers and staff, but there are no with an application package that is distrib- is making. The desire to continue to reach records of earlier participants and staff. The uted to potential participants through vari- out in novel ways to Project C.A.N.O.E. organization is working hard to attract past ous Toronto area social service agencies or participants sparked the development of participants back to celebrate 30 years of directly to interested youth and parents. the Leader in Training (LIT) Program in the operation. (Former Project C.A.N.O.E. Applications are reviewed and every appli- early 1980s. LIT experiences feature a 21 campers, staff and Board members are cant is interviewed either in person or by day canoe trip for youth age 15-17, who urged to email HYPERLINK "mailto:pc@ phone to ensure a match between program have already experienced a trip and wish to canoe.org" [email protected] with their full offerings and participant needs. Once par- further develop trip and leadership skills. contact information.) ticipants have been accepted into the pro- The focus now is on the development of Looking too far into the future is chal- gram, they attend a pool session to become off-season programs like a first aid course lenging for Herb Batt. While working out familiar with paddle strokes and canoe for LITs, and paddle making workshop for of his apartment on River Street in the late safety and to meet some of the other partic- any interested past participants. These ac- 1970s, he never thought even this far ipants. Trips vary in length from 5 and 8 tivities help sustain contact with summer ahead. Managing Project C.AN.O.E. was at days for first time participants; 12 days for program participants with a view to fur- that time, and for many years to follow, a returning campers interested in a longer thering their personal growth. survive-each-summer experience, not a trip; 18 days for older, returning campers Project C.AN.O.E. commissioned inde- thirty-years-down -the- road experience. and finally 21 days for Leaders in Training. pendent evaluations of its program in Thirty years of surviving each summer Trips depart from Yorkdale Mall in Toronto 2002, 2003 and 2004. These evaluations later, Project C.AN.O.E. is going strong and head north to the Temagami base camp were conducted by Laura Heinz, of the and continues to do remarkable work for that has been used for the past 7 years, Hincks Dellcrest Institute and provide an young people in need. Campers on trip courtesy of Ontario Parks. Once supplies overwhelming endorsement of the pro- connect with themselves and each other in are ready, groups head out on trip right gram. Over 95% of those parents and ways they never imagined. Youth who have away and spend the entire trip period in agency staff who participated in the evalua- never left the city have an opportunity to small groups of two staff and four campers. tions reported that Project C.AN.O.E.'s see true dark and hear true silence for the Ownership of the experience develops program was beneficial to their child or first time in their lives. They are changed as staff members empower campers to take client. Moreover, the evaluations also re- in countless ways by their Project responsibility for numerous aspects of the vealed that there was a statistically signifi- C.AN.O.E. experiences. As Herb reflected, trip. As a result, campers gain skills, self- cant increase in the feelings of self-efficacy "Project C.AN.O.E. is a story of the good- confidence, and pride in their accomplish- - a key indicator of self-esteem - for youth will in the world" He added, "It has been ments. Staff members bring an environ- attending Project C.AN.O.E. in each of the quite an education". mental consciousness to the program that evaluated years 2002 - 2004.

NASTAWGAN SUMMER 2006 27 Backferry, not Blackberries! By Elizabeth Sinclair

Yes, it is easy to be misunderstood, isn't Sometimes you need to slow the boat the rise and speed up on the fall You it? Your stern paddler, that necessity at down to achieve this, while other occa- will stay relatively dry and in glorious the back of your canoe - could just be sions require you to power at full speed, control. If you refer to Path of the Paddle, telling you to go to shore. On the other or as Bill puts it, "turn on the coal," with you will find Bill giving you this exact hand, perhaps not. Well, which is it, you the help of a backferry technique. advice although in a longer version. wonder? Are we going to run this rapid Bill discusses two types of backferries Check page 85-88. and if so, how? Or do we walk around and herein begins the confusion. To it, picking berries along the trail that grasp the concept of the backferry, keep Backferry type 2) Now, the second oc- leads around that maelstrom of white- in mind that two types are possible for casion is a little more complicated. In water. distinct occasions and with distinct tech- fact, I am going to discuss it after I talk Running the rapid presents a new niques, though they are related. Two about the Ottawa River. The reason for dilemma. How are we going to survive concepts are vital to both. The first is that this divergence is that the Ottawa pres- this rapid? The argument rages on: the technique requires backward pad- ents conditions directly related to the power forward as fast as possible or be a dling; the second is that both paddlers first occasion, described above. Now, you wimp and slow down. Of course, we must do this in unison. Typically, a back- may have perfected your backferry I know what the usual response is and we ferry fails because someone stops pad- know I have, but my advice to you is to have seen plenty of people flipping and dling, whereupon the boat turns side- stow it on the Ottawa. This river is full swamping to prove it. ways, optimising the canoe's exposure to of holes and diagonal waves and is de- Well, after a dozen or so years on the the full river current along the water line signed for kayaks. Running it in a canoe end of a paddle, I think I have figured it which adds pressure along the waterline is indeed a lot of fun once you get your out. Communicating (another article and makes it lean upstream. At this point technique geared up. topic) with your partner, you must make paddlers might grab gunwales and even a quick decision and set up: then paddle lean upstream themselves. This occurs in The trick on the Ottawa in, pull forward hard or paddle in, pull an instant while in the next instant water is to paddle very aggressively Set up to backward hard. Usually, one bad deci- rushes over the upstream gunwale and the left or right but inside the deep water sion has a devastating effect so it is very the boat turns upside down. And you vee (this river has lots of those) and important to decide ahead of time, which know, don't you, whos fault that is. power hard across the diagonal wave to you are going to do. H you are very quick when the boat the outside and then around the hole Bill Mason, Canadian paddling icon starts to lean upstream, you can save and the haystacks ce easy once you have and celebrated author and filmmaker, is yourself. Lean downstream and brace. it. I should know: I made the backferry probably the person most referenced, es- Don't grab the gumwhalesl It's that sim- mistake once, only once. And holes are pecially by new paddlers, when it comes ple. Do a low brace on the downstream nasty items when you are swimming to paddling technique. His books and side and the boat won't flip. Reset your them, especially for legs. movies are very widely honoured, as is angle (described below) and paddle his advice. Most of us, once we become backwards. Do not give up. A few strokes --- ..•••_- Now, understanding the obsessed with the sport, consider his first are usually enough to regain control. second application for a backferry will book, Path of the Paddle, required reading help if you first get a picture of it in your and perhaps a little later on, Thrill of the Backferry type 1) Technically, merely mind. I hope you will do this before you Paddle, a treasured reference guide to paddling backwards is not a true back- encounter a backferry situation. That is, whitewater technique. However helpful ferry but making your canoe go slower you need to know what to do before you these may be though, reading only than the current to control its progress find yourself in a big current that is send- whiles away the winter until spring run on the water. This allows it to float up ing you into the sweepers or overhang- off starts up, over the waves rather than plunge ing trees and rocks at the outside of a through them. Understanding that bend in the river. The key is to plan --- ..•••- Bill talks about many pad- whitewater is a series of sine waves helps ahead and don't wait until you are in the dling techniques and the backferry is (if you can remember your highschool corner current before acting. Practicing probably the most difficult concept to science.) Your canoe would rise and fall in tame little backferry situations is a grasp. Yet, it is one of the most important vertically if not for the forward trajectory very good idea. Then when you get into and miraculous maneuvers you will use. due to the elevation change. Thus, min- the big stuff with your reliable partner, While its primary function is to slow you imizing your forward momentum will you can agree on a strategy (berry pick- down in big water, the technique also allow that up and down behaviour with- ing on the portage trail is okay too) so gives you control of the canoe's trajectory out your plunging into the oncoming get ready, set up to orchestrate the back- in the case of obstacles you must avoid. peak. Timing is critical: slow down on ferry or power through the diagonals.

28 NASTAWGAN SUMMER 2006 Backferry type two is a derstand how keeping the sail slightly off ing for disaster but keep hauling on that clever manoeuve that uses the current to the wind captures and controls wind paddle and you will not only slow down best advantage, keeping you out of trou- power. You can control the amount of but often stop in the current, floating on ble in the river's most troublesome power by angling the sail to the wind. an angle downstream. The backward places. The same principle applies in current motion and angle together counterbal- But, before you decide on this back- and particularly, in executing the back- ance the predominant action of the cur- ferry you have to recognize the need for ferry You need to set and keep the best rent on the canoe. The canoe floats gen- it. Once you master the technique, apply angle in the current to maximize the ac- tly, and safely downstream, away from it to other situations that you want to tion of your backferry danger and in glorious control. avoid. The main occasions I have found The reason for emphasizing angle is If the backferry is not working, the are bends in rivers. Typically these can be that it is vital to the success of the ma- angle is wrong or you have not turned on dangerous places with sweepers, rocks, noeuvre. The bow of the canoe must enough coal. At this point, only the bow waves, and very fast water on the outside point toward the obstacle and up- paddler can fix the angle. (Note: The of the bend. The current is rushing to- stream to a particular degree to exploit canoe is going backwards and bow is now ward these obstacles and you do not the power of the current. This initial in the steering position to control the want your canoe included. Thus is the angle must be judged and set only by angle.) Keep in mind that it may take a prime situation for type 2. the stern paddler who can see and few strokes to work. You might be Upon recognizing the situation down- control the entire canoe. (Note: The tempted to quit because the backferry isn't stream, you immediately yell backferry to bow cannot fight the current at this working but HAVE FAITH. IT WORKS. that nefarious other or politely request it point in order to turn the bow up- Keep paddling and try to trust your stern perhaps, hoping that person is awake. stream,) 2) The degree of angle de- paddler not to quit. If he/she does, you'll Next, you (both) must decide which pends on the strength of the current: know it because the boat will turn side- way to point the bow. The trick here is to the stronger the current, the steeper ways right away and you will have to ap- point it toward where you don't want to the upstream angle. That is, the more peal loudly Manners don't work. go, which, in this case, is at the outside of upstream the bow must be pointing. When you have passed the danger, the bend: the sweeper, the rock, whatever. This angle controls how much water you can eddy into the main current by Do this before you get to the bend be- force is exerted on the upstream side turning the bow downs team. cause the current is sweeping you along of the canoe, 3) Once the angle is set, Backpaddling and backferring are as you are in discussion. Adjust the angle bow and stern stoke the coal in a such useful techniques and can actually upstream, next described. (see figure 1) backward motion. stop the canoe in the current as well as If you have ever sailed, you will un- Now it might look like you are head- safely save your bacon in big waves and corners. But remember if either paddler stops paddling, the manoeuvre will not work. Your canoe may crash into the rocks and trees perhaps dump and get pinned under the water. In a backferry, unless both paddlers brace and lean downstream, the boat will flip: end of manoeuvre: beginning of swim. On the other hand, you can eddy out above the rapid, which isn't so bad. You can make blackberry pie for dinner.

11\,"

Mason books of interest: Bill Mason, Path of thte Paddle, Key Porter Books, Toronto, 1984. Bill Mason, Song of the Paddle, Key Porter Books, Toronto, 1988 . • Bow paddler Paul Mason and Mark Scriver, Thrill of -----j Flow direction the Paddle, Firefly Books, New York, 1999. Figure 1

NASTAWGAN SUMMER 2006 29 WCA OUTINGS WANT TO ORGANIZE A TRIP AND HAVE IT PRESENTED IN THE SUMMER ISSUE? Contact the Outings Committee before August 15

Forquestions, suggestions, proposals to organize trips, or anything else related to the WCA Outings, contact the Outings Committee: BillNess, 476-327 -3005, [email protected]; Gisela Curwen, 476-484- 7477, [email protected]; Gerijames, 476-572-6690, geri.james@barc/aysglobal.com; Scott Card, 905-665-7302, [email protected] WCA outings and other activities may have an element of danger of serious personal injury. You are ultimately responsible for your own safety and well-being when participating in club events.

All Season HAVE PADDLE WILL TRAVEL - We will complete a circle route from Hartley Bay House out through Scott Card, 905-665-7302, [email protected] - Mowing the the Western Outlets of the French River, exploring the historic Old lawn this weekend because you don't have any trips planned? I paddle Voyageur Channel, and return past the ghost logging town of whitewater nearly every weekend from spring break-up through as long Copananing. There is a fee for parking, water taxi, and group dinners. as the water remains liquid in the fall (or winter). If you want to get out Limit of six canoes. on a river any weekend, just call me to find out where I'm headed. I go wherever there's good water. Longer trips also a possibility. Trip diffi- June 17-18 LONG LAKE/BUZZARD LAKE culty levels vary from intermediate to advanced. Open canoe, C1, or Cheryl Stoltz and David Atkins, 915-830-0720, book by June 10 - We kayak welcome. have to run our teen up to this area north of Peterborough for a Scouting course, so we thought that we would stay and play too! All Season HAVE PADDLE WILL TRAVEL, PART II Therefore, this is an lazy weekend/exploratory trip, and we will have our AI Sutton, 905-985-0261 - I'm on the river most weekends through 5.5 year old son with us. This is an easy flat water trip; longest portage the season. If you'd like to get away, give me a call to find out what I'm is 765m. We plan on camping on Buzzard and exploring from there. doing. You're welcome to join me. Trip difficulty levels vary from intermediate to advanced. June 30-July 3 TIM RIVER Howard Sayles, 416-921-5321 - We access the route at Algonquin Park All Summer MELLOW SUMMER WHITEWATER WEEKENDS west end Tim River access point # 2 This is a very enjoyable flatwater Bill Ness, 416-321-3005, [email protected] - Most weekends of the sum- trip with slow down-river current, and narrow, winding continuous "S" mer I am at the Gull for the day or the whole weekend. If there is de- curves. There are a few portages and some liftovers. Our route takes cent water, I'll set up camp at Palmer's to do some paddling and catch us to the area beyond Rosebarry Lake, continuing along the Tim around some rays. It's a relaxed way to spend an all too short summer. Bring the dam at the southeast end of Rosebarry, past the Shaw portage junc- the spouse and kids along. If you are looking for an excuse to avoid ture to the historic farm site no longer standing. We shall return via the painting or mowing the lawn, just give me a call & I'll tell you what I same route. Solo canoes welcome. Participants will need a good water have planned. I'm happy to provide a little informal instruction for any- filter with pr-filter as the water in this area is not drinkable otherwise one new to moving water, or for paddlers wanting to work on their roll. and contains heavy silt. Palmers is great for beginners. The run-out at the Gull can be used by novices, but you really need to be a good intermediate to paddle the Late June/July INTERMEDIATE/ADVANCED SOLO WW COACHING course safely. WEEKEND Scott Card 905-665-7302, [email protected] - Take your pad- Early June DUMOINE RIVER dling skills to the next level! An advanced intermediate solo whitewater Frank Knaapen and Jay Neilson 613-687-6037, book before May 14.- coaching weekend in late June or July with Barry Godden. Exact date to Contact organizers for exact dates. This will be a 3-4 day extended be determined. We will be covering advanced river reading and running weekend trip In early June this river requires self-sufficient wilderness as well as playboating. The weekend will be on the Ottawa or the Gull and whitewater outfitting including flotation, wet/dry suits and strong River depending on water conditions. Participants must have there own intermediate whitewater skills. boat and be comfortable with class III water. Limit 6 boats.

June 4 ELORA GORGE July ROUGE RIVER Bill Ness, 416-321-3005, [email protected] - Up north the bugs may be Martin Heppner, 416-365-7802 or 416-465-1558; mheppner@an- at their peak, but down on the Grand, you can at least paddle without chorsecurities.com, book by May 31. - Exact dates to be determined. getting eaten alive. At this time of year the Gorge is usually pretty tame, This is a whitewater trip from Lac Rouge to the Ottawa. Contact organ- but it's a very pleasant day's outing. It's an excellent place for newer izer for details. moving water paddlers to get some practice developing their skills, and I'd be happy to provide some informal coaching for anyone who wants July 1-3 OTTAWA RIVER it. Suitable for novice moving water paddlers. John & Sharon Hackert, 416-438-7672, or [email protected], book before June 22. - We are fortunate to have access to the most June 10 GRAND RIVER beautiful campsite on the river. The Ottawa is big water and many of Doug Ashton 519-620-8364, book by June 1. - This popular trip down the rapids are quite difficult. You should be at least a strong intermedi- the Grand River offers a local leisurely day from Cambridge to Paris ate paddler to safely enjoy it. We recommend that you join us on some where it passes through scenic farm country This trip is suitable for of our spring trips to develop and practice your skills before attempting novice paddles with some moving water experience. An excellent fam- this river. Limit six boats. ily trip without any portaging. July 7-9 CANOEING CHRISTIAN ISLAND June 15-18 FRENCH RIVER - WESTERN OUTLETS Richard Steinberg, cell @ 647-284-8083, business 905 671-5494, email 80b Fisher, 416-487-2950 or weekends 705-445-9339, book by June 1. @ [email protected], book as soon as possible. - We

30 NASTAWGAN SUMMER 2006 will meet on the evening of Friday, July 7. Enjoy a weekend on Georgian tered waters whenever conditions require it. This trip is suitable for par- Bay. Canoe over to one of the first Imperial Lighthouses on Georgian ents with adolescent children to retired folk alike provided they are Bay. If the weather permits, we will search for the shipwreck Maple competent novices who can manage windy conditions, waves, adhering Dawn up the coast at Daly Point. It's mostly flatwater, but winds can to no-trace camping principles and can function in a team environment. make it rough. This will be a full day outing. Picnic & swimming on one Limit six canoes. of the sandy beaches before returning. Sunday is open for coastal canoeing. Due to planning requirements, can only accept participants who August 27 - September 17 VOYAGEUR BOUNDARY WATERS are certain they will be going. Please do not call unless you can make a Martin Heppner, 416-365-7802 or 416-465-1558; mheppner@an- firm commitment chorsecurities.com - Book by April 28th. We shall travel overland, westward to the Winnipeg River from Fort William and the July 8-9 INTRODUCTION TO MOVING WATER Kaministiquia River or, alternatively, from Grand Portage and the Pigeon Jon McPhee, 905-640-8819; Bill Ness, 416-321-3005; Scott Card, 905- River, over the height of land, stopping in Quetico along the way, then 665-7302, book before June 24. - This is a two-day workshop for flat- west to Rainy Lake, then Lake of the Woods, ending at Minaki or the water paddlers who want to develop basic moving-water skills. It Winnipeg River. All plans to be made. Bring your pemmican. Limit of should be of interest to trippers who want to become more comfort- 3 canoes. able negotiating the moderate moving-water they often encounter on river trips, and to canoeists who want to determine if whitewater pad- September 2-4 OTTAWA RIVER dling could be for them. We will focus on the basics of moving-water John & Sharon Hackert, 416-438-7672, or [email protected], boat control and book before August 25th. - We are fortunate to have access to the manoeuvres, water reading, and safety. Both tandem and solo paddlers most beautiful campsite on the river. The Ottawa is big water and many are welcome. The weekend will be spent at Palmer Rapids on the of the rapids are quite difficult. You should be at least a strong inter- Madawaska River, one hour northeast of Bancroft. The location offers mediate paddler to safely enjoy it. We recommend that you join us on some of the best novice to intermediate whitewater in Southern Ontario. some of our spring trips to develop and practice your skills before at- In order to be able to work closely with participants, registration is lim- tempting this river. Limit six boats. ited to six boats. Prerequisites: Participants must be able to steer a canoe competently September 2-4 RIVIERE AUX SAUBLES on flatwater. A Royalex canoe with supplementary floatation (air bag, Aleks Gusev, 416-236-7079, [email protected], book by August 15 - air mattress, inner tube, etc.) to simplify recovery when you capsize is Riviere aux Sables is west of Sudbury, near Massey. This is a long drive mandatory. If you need to rent a canoe, you should register and reserve from Toronto but well worth the trip for whitewater aficionados, with the boat immediately as there are very limited numbers available with some of the best technical water in Ontario (class 2 to 4 with some outfitters. Vest-type PFD's, helmets, and square-bladed, T-gripped class 5 falls for the adventurers). Must be at least a strong intermediate whitewater paddles are necessary. Lastly, you must feel at home in the paddler. Fully outfitted whitewater boats required. Limit six boats. water to enjoy these workshops. Recommended: While not required, a wetsuit will make floating in the October 15 BURNT RIVER river more pleasant. Reviewing a whitewater instructional book or video Bill Ness, 416-321-3005 or [email protected], book by October 6 - An op- before we meet will familiarize you with the important concepts so you portunity to work off the calories from the Thanksgiving turkey dinner. can get the most value out of your river time. An easy flatwater river trip from Kinmount to above the village of Burnt River. The Burnt always has enough water to be paddled. Pretty scenery August 5-7 OTTAWA RIVER and a few short portages make this a good late season outing A great John & Sharon Hackert, 416-438-7672, or [email protected], day out for families or anyone wanting to enjoy the fall woods from a book before July 30.- We are fortunate to have access to the most boat. beautiful campsite on the river. The Ottawa is big water and many of the rapids are quite difficult. You should be at least a strong intermedi- October 27 to 29 SHARK LAKE ate paddler to safely enjoy it. We recommend that you join us on some Gary James 416-512-6690, [email protected], or Anne Lessio 905- of our spring trips to develop and practice your skills before attempting 686-1730 or [email protected], bood before October 1 - Join us in the this river. Limit six boats. Kawarthas for a fall trip from Long Lake down to Coon Lake; about 20 km with 7 portages. Four canoes and lor seven solo tents. August 12- 20 TEMAGAMI A launch fee maybe required. Richard Steinberg, cell @ 647-284-8083, business 905 671-5494, email @ [email protected], book as soon as possible. - Join ADDITIONAL TRIPS us for a 9 day trip on Lake Temagami and surrounding area. Short visit Check our website at www.wildernesscanoe.ca/trips.htm for additional to Bear Island Indian Reserve and a hike on the Old Growth Pine Hiking trips. Members may submit additional trips to the Outings Committee Trail on Temagami Island. We will be exploring the northern area by way anytime at [email protected]. If you miss the Nastawgan deadline, your of several portages. This is rated as an intermediate flat-water trip as trip will still be listed on the website. Also, check the bulletin board at the lake water can be rough at times. Due to planning requirements, www.wildernesscanoe.ca/bulletin.htm for private, non-WCA trips or can only accept participants who are certain they will be going. Please partner requests. do not call unless you can make a firm commitment. January-March 2007 POOL SESSIONS EARLY BIRD REGISTRATION August 22-28 GEORGIAN BAY Bill Ness, 416-321-3005 or [email protected] - Community groups want- Don Andersen, [email protected], 716-873-4476, book before July ing to rent swimming pools for recreational use in Toronto are chal- 22. - We will be visiting the more secluded, remote sections of lenged with numerous new bureaucratic hurdles, as well as fewer avail- Georgian Bay in the vicinity of the mouth of the Key River. We will be able pools. One now must pre-book long in advance to reserve space. exploring isolated sections of Sandy Bay, Kantos Point and the However, we have two pieces of good news for winter pool paddlers. Champlain Islands in the southern portion of the trip with special em- We have a booking at our usual Scarborough pool at Albert Campbell phasis to explore Fox Bay or Fox Lake in the trip's northern extremity. Collegiate for Sundays from 5:00 to 6:30 pm. Dates are January 7 to We may spend a night on Tanvat Island depending on weather and March 11. As well, fees haven't gone up for us, so the cost remains $80 group interest. We may be exploring some of these areas by foot as per person to cover the whole 10 sessions. Contact me to reserve a well. We will be searching for new residents to the area, the Sandhill spot as space is limited. Crane, a large and magnificent water bird, whose range is increasing from the southwestern part of the Bay. This trip will use available shel-

NASTAWGAN SUMMER 2006 31 Where it is...

Ontario

.. .in this issue

1. The Lure of Mistastin 21. News Briefs 24. The Pike 8. Mistastin - A Short Labrador 21. Book Review 25. Wilderness Classics Journey 22. Canadian Rivers Day 26. Project Canada 12. The Meanest Link: Linking the 22. Words from Mr. Canoehead 28. Backferry, not Blackberries Algonquin Outfitters Stores 22. Food for Paddlers 30. WCA Outings 18. Tough Summer on the Back 23. Products and Services

WCA Postal Address WCA Contacts http://www.wildernesscanoe.ca P.O. Box 91068 2901 Bayview Ave. Secretary Editor-in-Chief Membership and Toronto, ON M2K 2Y6 Bill King Elizabeth Sinclair Computer Records 45 Hi Mount Drive 48 Pollock Ave. Vacant BOARD OF DIRECTORS Toronto, ON M2K 1X3 Cambridge, ON N1 R 2B1 George Drought (Chair) Aleksandar Gusev 416-223-4646 519-624-2328 43 Brodick Street 8 Valiant Road [email protected] [email protected] Hamilton, ON L8S 3E3 Etobicoke, ON 905-528-0059 416-236-7079 WCA Outings Treasurer Conservation gdrought@wilderness [email protected] Bill Ness Howard Sayles Erhard Kraus bound.ca 194 Placentia Blvd. Toronto, ON Scarborough, ON Gillian Mason Toronto, ON M1 S 4H4 416-921-5321 416-293-3755 Michael Law Toronto, ON 416-321-3005 [email protected] B67 Ball Ave East, RR 3 416-752-9596 [email protected] Webmaster Beaverton, ON LOK 1AO [email protected] Jeff Haymer (705) 426-1951 Toronto, ON mike@ law. infosathse .com Martin Heppner 416-635-5801 Toronto, ON [email protected] Elsie Carr-Locke 416-465-1558 Toronto, ON mheppner@anchor 416-463-9019 secu rities.com [email protected]

Editorial Team: Bob Henderson, Resource Editor Mike Wevrick, Associate Editor, Text Barb Young, Food Editor Bill Ness, Outings Editor Aleksandar Gusev, Illustrations Editor

32 NASTAWGAN SUMMER 2006