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Exploring London 05 541099 Ch05.qxd 12/17/03 8:49 AM Page 116 5 Exploring London It was nothing short of amazing. In 2001, after months of wheeler- dealering and changes to the tax regulations, London’s major national museums dropped their admission charges. Now you can indulge in sci-fi fantasy at the Science Museum for free. You can inhale the aroma of cheesy socks and close-confined unwashed bod- ies in the Imperial War Museum’s submarine simulator for free. At the Natural History Museum you can experience an earthquake and see a fabulous dinosaur collection for free. Without shelling out a pence you can visit, but not bounce on, the Great Bed of Ware in the V&A’s remodeled British Galleries. And for nothing more than the cost of your transportation to Greenwich, you can see the orig- inal model for Nelson’s Column, and the Admiral’s bullet-pierced coat, at the National Maritime Museum. There hasn’t been such a museum and gallery boom since the era of the great Victorian philanthropists. All those now-free attractions have recently sprouted new extensions and wings, or had elaborate refurbs. In less than 3 years, the fabulous new Tate Modern opened on Bankside and the Tate Britain embarked on a centenary spruce- up. The Museum of London has also begun a long and complicated renovation. Even the ill-fated Millennium Bridge connecting the Tate Modern to St. Paul’s has had its wobblies re-engineered and is ready to take on your pounding feet. 1 How to Spend Less and See More London will never be a cheap thrill, but fortunately, in addition to the top-dollar tourist draws there are now scads of free museums, galleries, and historic buildings. And remember, London’s major national museums are now free. 2 London’s Top Attractions British Airways London Eye Kids “Passengers” on the Eye can see straight into the Buckingham Palace garden, much to the Queen’s annoyance. And both the Ministry of Defense and Shell 05 541099 Ch05.qxd 12/17/03 8:49 AM Page 117 LONDON’S TOP ATTRACTIONS 117 have spent thousands spy-proofing their offices after discovering that someone with the right gadgetry could look in and pinch their secrets. At 443 feet high, this is the world’s tallest observation wheel (don’t say “Ferris,” it’s a dirty word to these guys). On the south 1 bank, next to County Hall, the ⁄2-hour, very slow-mo “flight” gives a stunning 25-mile view over the capital. It’s better when the sun isn’t shining, as the glare makes it difficult to see out. And the pod should have a map of the landmarks running round the inside— instead you have to pay £4.50 ($7) for a guidebook. Book your “boarding ticket” in advance to avoid too much hanging about. The Eye will keep spinning at least through December 2003, and prob- ably longer, but they’ve jacked the prices up in a kind of “last call.” Jubilee Gardens, SE1. & 0870/500-0600. www.ba-londoneye.com.Admission £11 ($18) adults, £10 ($16) seniors, £5.50 ($9) children 5-15. Open daily 9:30am; last admission varies seasonally (May 8 or 9pm; June 9 or 10pm; July–Aug 10pm; Oct–Dec 8pm). Tube: Waterloo, Westminster. River services: Festival Pier. British Museum To get the maximum visual kerpow from your first sight of the Great Court, use the main south entrance into the museum—the one with the too-white portico made of the wrong kind of stone. Except for that embarrassing blunder, the £100 million redevelopment of the British Museum, designed by Lord Norman Foster, has won high praise. The 2-acre Great Court used to serve as a giant store cupboard. Now covered by a stunning steel-and-glass roof, it has become the light-filled hub of the Bloomsbury complex, staying open after the galleries close, with an education center, restaurants where you can have supper Thursday through Saturday, and coffee shops. Call for details of talks, per- formances, and workshops. But the real excitement is that for the first time, visitors can enter the copper-domed British Library Reading Room. The giant drum in the middle of the Great Court is clad in the same too-white stone, while the interior has been restored to its Victorian blue, cream, and gold glory. Designed by Robert Smirke and completed in 1857, it inspired Thomas Carlyle, Virginia Woolf, Mahatma Gandhi, Lenin, George Bernard Shaw, Karl Marx (who wrote Das Kapital here), and a host of other great names. It houses the museum’s books on the upper floors, with a public reference library and media center down below (the rare books, maps, manuscripts, and historic documents that were once in the Reading Room and museum vaults are now at the British Library, described later in this chapter). From a collection purchased from Sir Hans Sloane in 1753, the British Museum has grown into one of the richest storehouses of 05 541099 Ch05.qxd 12/17/03 8:49 AM Page 118 Central London Attractions Apsley House HAMPSTEADHAMPSTEAD N e . w d . d Wellington Museum 10 rt R St e y R S N lb D y h e A elance CAMDENCAMDEN a e o c 1 n r rin S p t ST. JOHN’S WOOD P P t W a h British Airways i h an . e c k n ISLINGTON LondonLondon r r R ra o d R London Eye 33 ZooZoo d. s o d e d Y le s . A a s l King’s Cross C W The BritishST.S LibraryT. JOHNJJOHN’SOHN ’ S22 WellingtonW b SHOREDITCH G a Station a e H EversholtE St. d. WWOODOOD r l n v ille R l o l EUSTONEUSTON v k a n i y e o MaidaM Vale v n REGENTRREGENT‘SEGENT‘S PARKPARK nt Rd.R m r Pe e g s St. Pancras British Museuma 21 d t S h . t p K i E o o Station i G d . n n s g o C a n lt . G ‘ it . t d s s y d w R e V S R r C d d Buckingham Palace 11 BoatingBoating a FINSBURY . a ’’ss a t n e R R . o y r l l d e n . t ’ o l t MAIDA VALE d h d LakeLake s s MAIDAMAIDA o ParkP Rd. u J s R B s . J R R EUSTON EustonEuston E a u a Cabinet War Rooms 15 . d s d a r d t d I E o k . t. t VALEVALE St.S John STATION StationStation n R r S . o . d e h S v R n d Le WWood Rd. d t ST. S . GREAT . e. G n Dickens’s House 24 EUSTON F t ee v . PORTLAND PANCRAS R a A J t. t. r L d r o ld S E l G is SQUARE S r h O a s W . i C a o ST. t Coram’s n B s n . n . g n t h Houses of Parliaments 14 d o d u i e t G R t nns. MARYLEBONE T BLOOMS-BLOOMS- Fields CLERKENWELL r e n b o S n y n d r y WARWICK o to o u . n t B G v REGENT’S PARK s St r . h S EustonEu Rd.t BURYBURY r d R n e n rd e R R i t Gt. Portland t l . AVENUE o GowerG St. o d Imperial War Museum 34 f l l G l d ft BAKER STREET e ui b el P . li n o G e . A R LISSONLISSON 2 . t l lerke nw CliftonC Gd . h w . s C o Rd l Rd. d PortlandP Pl. a C GROVEGROVE P e o w o m e WARREN ST. o B ne 3 o r R S r m bo r r S r e o s yl t r t t u . St. m i a l g h d c c e EDGWARE ROAD MaryleboneM a l BedfordBedford Sq.Sq. t R e a s e t h k B e n d a n l a a a GloucesterG Pl. GOODGE ST. b t r d m L d c CourtC Rd. eo e g l p r i n o St. h BakerB St. P . o a ) SeymourS Pl. 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